A Guide to Jewelry-Making Hand Tools

From the Fire Mountain Gems and Beads® Collection

Using the right tool for the job will give you more secure crimps, tighter and neater loops
and perfect coils. Here's a guide to the most commonly used jewelry-making hand tools, the
work they are designed to do and tips on when to use each tool.

Curved chain-nose pliers are used to reach into tight

places to grip components, close jump-rings, bend wire
and stabilize a design while working. The bent tip allows
access into difficult areas without blocking your line of
vision.

Chain-nose pliers are used to reach into tight places, at

difficult angles, to grip components, close jump-rings,
bend wire and stabilize a design while working. They are
available in both long-nose and short-nose varieties.
Short-nose pliers offer more strength and stability while
long-nose pliers give more reach.

Crimping pliers are an invaluable tool for stringing

beads, as they easily secure crimp tubes to your beading
wire. The jaws have two notches (when closed, one notch
forms an ''O'' shape, the other a ''U'' shape). To crimp,
first squeeze the crimp tube or bead in the ''U'' shaped
notch to lock it into place. Then squeeze the crimped tube
in the ''O'' notch to further secure and round it.

End-cutting nippers are ideal for conquering problems

such as cutting the post off an ear stud or trimming the
peg on a flat pad. The highest quality nippers are
constructed with lap joints and polished heads to prevent
marking the surface of soft metals.
 Flush-cutters trim headpins, eye-pins and beading wire
such as Accu-Flex® professional-quality beading wire, as
well as fine wire used in wire-working. Flush-cutters allow
a flat, even cut even in the tightest of places (hence the
name), making for less filing and cleanup time. The tiny
jaws camouflage their incredible accuracy and power.
After cutting the end of a piece of metal wire, check out
the cutting surfaces and see how one side makes a "V"
shape and the other is flat. For a perfectly flush cut,
always keep the waste end of the wire toward the
concave side of the cutters.

Flat-nose pliers are used to bend wire and hold beads

and components without marring or scratching. The flat
inside surface of the jaws help stabilize jump-rings,
flatten wire and create sharp corners for wire-working.
Available in both long-nose and short-nose varieties.
Short-nose pliers give you increased strength and stability
while long-nose pliers give you more reach.

Gem setting pliers are used for setting or tightening the

prongs on gemstone settings. They have great leverage
and are designed with parallel action jaws which can be
adjusted to the exact width you need. By adjusting the
jaws to the width of your setting, you can be sure you're
not applying too much force on the setting of your stone.
View the how-to video and step-by-step illustrated
instructions to see this tool in action.

Loop-closing pliers smoothly close loops, jump-rings,

bracelet links and more. The jaws have a groove which
allows for the curvature of different sized loops, and the
smooth finish prevents distortion or scratching.
View the how-to video and step-by-step illustrated
instructions to see this tool in action.
 Memory wire shears are made specifically to easily cut
hard wires such as memory wire (steel) and precious
metals. These shears will create a straight (flat) cut, so
they work wonderfully for headpins too. Rubber coated,
spring return handles are easy to use.

Nylon-jaw pliers are designed to prevent marring the

surface of round and square profile, precious and base
metal wires. They are used like flat-nose pliers when
forming wire and wire wrapping. They are also great for
straightening bends and some kinks in wire.

Rosary pliers are a perfect two-in-one tool--round-nose

pliers and side-cutting pliers in one handy tool. Round-
nose pliers create loops and curves. Side-cutting pliers
trim metal or beading wire. This is a great tool for highly
repetitive work such as making rosaries (hence the name)
or handmade chain.

Round-nose pliers are an essential tool in a jewelry

maker's tool box. Use them to create multi-diameter
loops when wire wrapping and forming headpins and
eyepins.
Jewelry Maker's Tip: When creating a curve or loop in a
repeated pattern, use a permanent marker or small bit of
masking tape to mark the point on the jaws where the
original curve or loop has been made to ensure the
pattern remains the same.

Scissors, Precision are designed to cut into tiny places

with ultra-sharp precision. For left-handed or right-
handed people. Great for trimming excess bead cord from
those tiny bead tips. Stainless steel blades, polypropylene
handles.
Scissors, classically forged embroidery and beading are
professional-quality Mundial brand scissors that are great
for getting into small areas and for cutting small or fine
materials. Made of fine forged carbon steel and carry a
lifetime warranty. Scissors have extra-fine double sharp
points.

Split ring pliers are designed to open the split rings just
enough to slide them onto the end of your finding and
then have them close right back up without distorting the
ring.
View the how-to video and step-by-step illustrated
instructions to see this tool in action.

Stringing wire nippers cut Accu-Flex, Acculon® or

other steel reinforced thread flush with a crimp bead.
Plastic-covered handles for easy grip. Hardened jaws are
ground flush on one side.

Thread Clippers, for quick snipping work, these easy-to-

use clippers are designed with no finger holes. Spring
action handles and sharp blades make these a handy tool.

Wire-Wrapping pliers are designed to create three-

different sizes (4mm, 6mm and 8mm) of consistently
perfect loops. They are used like round-nose pliers for
wire-wrapping, forming simple or wrapped loops and for
creating your own jump-rings.
Building blocks: basic findings for jewelry making:

“Findings” generally refer to all the metal bits and pieces that make up your jewelry.

Another word is “components”, which often refers to the less necessary ones

(like links or spacer bars). If you’re just starting out, stick with the basics, but maybe

treat yourself to one or two “cool ones” to get your creativity flowing.

You can get each of these in a variety of metals (silver plated, sterling silver, silver filled,

gold filled, gold plated, brass… the list goes on!) and styles, but I’ve linked to the basics. I’d

recommend getting them in both gold plated/tone and silver plated/tone, or choosing one of

those to stick with.

Headpins – These are building blocks in

projects such as my snowman

earrings, bauble rings, and more. Thicker

ones just need to be looped at the end,

while thinner ones are for wrapping. Pay

attention to length as well.

Eye pins – I normally make these myself,

from headpin trimmings or wires. They

have a loop on one end to get you started.

Crimp beads (1mm; 2mm) and tubes.

These are tiny metal beads that hold things

in place. They are great for a huge variety

of jewelry making projects – including

finishing off bracelets and necklaces, and

my beaded pacifier clips. They are also

used to hold beads mid-strand in “invisible

necklace” type crafts.

I like to use crimp covers as well, and

you’ll find them in many of my projects,

but they are not a must.

Jump rings (5mm) – these come in
various sizes measured in millimeters and
are used to connect things.

You can buy fancy, twisted ones too, that

can be used as decorative links. If you are

looking to make your jewelry making star

easier, buy a pack with a few sizes.

Wire (21 strand; .019” diameter).

Primarily used for wire wrapping pieces

such as pendants or this bracelets, it’s also

great for making basic findings. Wire is

measured in gauge, with a higher gauge

being thinner easier to work with, but lower

being more durable. I would start off

with 20 gauge if you plan to make jump

rings and eye pins, and 24 gauge if you’ll

be wrapping.
Earrings – These are the earrings pieces

that turn a dangle or cabochon into an

earring. They range from lever backs,

to fish hooks, to studs for gluing and for

hanging. If you plan to glue anything

smooth, I highly recommend using E6000

glue.

Necklaces and bracelets: For these you’ll

need clasps that come in various styles.

Start with spring ring or lobster claw.

Eventually, you might want to explore

more decorative options that can transform

a piece. My favorites are toggle clasps.

It’ll attach to a jump ring or a chain.

 Rings: I like to make rings using a ring

base, either with punches, loops, or a flat

pad for gluing.

Pendants: To turn something pretty into a pendant, you can use a jump ring, but it’s

much nicer to use a bail. In my pendant I used a bail that snaps right on. Other

options include bails that glue on, or that have a little screw to put them into

a partially-drilled bead. You can also get a pinch bail that turns a top-drilled stone into a

pendant.

Finishing it – If you’re working with cord (below) you’ll want to finish it off with cord

tips so that you can attach it to clasps.

Strings, Chains, and Cords:

While you may be able to do without most of these, you should definitely start with one.

Choose if you prefer strung beads, and then pick a string. If you prefer pieces that can look

“real” and sophisticated, use chain. If your style is more trendy and colorful, go for cords.

 Strings – these are used for threading beads. Which you’ll need will depend on what

type of project you’re making. My favorite is tiger tail for its strength and durability. If

you’re stringing pearls and such, you might prefer silk thread.

 Chains – are used to string a pendant, or as spacers between beads on a necklace,

bracelet, earrings… You can also use it as a main decorative element in the piece itself. I

use a one inch bit as the other half of my clasp on bracelets and necklaces, to make

them adjustable. For that, I use cable chain with open loops. For other projects, you

can get chain in a huge variety of finishes and styles.

 Cords – I use these as decorative elements to add a little texture to a piece. These

include leather cord, satin cord (rat tail), twine, and practically every texture and

color imaginable. Start with a couple of your favorites, and use them as a focal element

in your craft. Some examples of usage include these heart bracelets, this leather chain

bracelet, and this faux gemstone bracelet.

OTHER EQUIPMENT

Ruler

Beading needles

Beading tray

Crimp covers

Chain tabs

Bead tips

Ear wires

Head pins

Beading wire (21 strand; .019” diameter)

Beading thread

 Black
 White

Bead Reamer

Wire guards

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