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Footwear Manufacturing

This lecture is intended to involve self-directed learning - ie.


there will be no formal lecture. However, there are a number of aims of this le
cture, which are:
1. To be able to identify and name the common components of a shoe (eg. vamp, up
per, tongue...).
2. To have a general understanding of the manufacturing process involved in the
making of a shoe.
3. What materials are used for the upper, midsole and sole in a range of shoe ty
pes?
4. To be aware that different styles of footwear require vastly different manufa
cturing techniques.
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Anatomy of a shoe

Visible parts
1. The Quarter : member of the 'backpart' of the shoe, horseshoe shaped piece of
leather, cradles heel of foot
2. Topline: top edge of the quarter
3. Heel: obvious part, 'top lift' part in contact with ground, 'heel base' betwe
en toplift and sole, 'heel seat' inside shoe where heel contacts, many variation
s: Cuban, Louis, Wedge, etc.
4. Instep: location which corresponds to instep of foot
5. Waist: area of shoe between instep and ball of foot
6. Tongue: leather flat under laces
7. Throat: area just in front of waist and behind ball on upper surface of shoe
8. Vamp: technically whole forepart of shoe upper, but more commonly top surface
of the ball
9. Toe cap: reinforcement piece over toe of shoe
10. Outsole: bottom layer of shoe in contact with ground
11. Shank: part of outsole under arch of foot
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Components of a shoe
1. Outsole: various materials used, material varies according to: quality/style/
utility requirements
2. Insole: structural hub of shoe, many other components attached to it, usually
made of leather, must absorb moisture, be light and flexible, resist curling an
d cracking
3. Midsole: for shoes requiring heavy or reinforced base, between outsole and in
sole, usually composite material
4. Counter: reinforcement for back of shoe, stiffened fibre material, shaped to
contour to sides and back of heel, helps to keep the shape of the shoe
5. Box Toe (toe puff): reinforcement concealed beneath upper at toe
6. Shankpiece: sandwiched between outside and inside along shank of shoe under a
rch, NOT an arch support, reinforcement to strengthen 'bridge' between heel and
forefoot, usually made of metal
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Linings of a shoe
1. Quarter Lining: horseshoe shape around back part of shoe
2. Vamp Lining: inside upper of forepart and toe of shoe
3. Sock Lining: covering all OR part of the top surface of the insole
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Processes in shoe making
1. Lasts
The word 'last' is derived from the old Anglo-Saxon word 'laest' which means foo
tprint or foot track. The last determines the fit and feel of the shoe as well a
s 'wear performance'. Lasts used to be made of hardwoods, but now are mainly mad
e of plastic as they don't swell or shrink. Metal lasts are used in some manufac
turing processes.
The design of the last is determined by the shoe manufacturer. With Clarks shoe
company, many thousands of people are measured annually to make sure that the la
sts produced by the company match the feet of the general population.
A model maker translates specifications into original models - other sizes and w
idths are graded up or down from the original - holding true to the last shape.
Design considerations include: foot movements, manufacturing process, intended p
opulation, purpose of footwear and fashion. There are over 30 measurements requi
red in the construction of a modern last. Lasts can be 'straight' or 'curved' (f
lared) - either inflared or out flared.
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2. Pattern cutting
Sectional patterns are produced for the uppers, linings, insoles, heels, soles,
stiffeners, backers and toe puffs. The lasting allowance is added. The materials
used in making the shoes are cut from these working patterns.
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3. Cutting
Traditionally called 'clicking'. There is an art to cutting leather due to the n
ature of the material - grain, blemishes, tightness etc. Cutting is done by hand
with curved hand knives, or with a beam press with shaped press knives to the r
equired pattern.
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4. Closing
Uppers are counted, checked, matched and marked for identification. They are pie
rced, punched, embossed or perforated, and then skived, seamed, positioned with
linings and sewn. All the aesthetic coverings/modifations to the upper are carri
ed out in this department of the factory.
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5. Making
The completed upper and sole are united. The method of construction depends upon
the style and purpose of the shoe. Making is basically two processes:
A) Lasting: stretching upper on to last
The upper is stretched over the last and attached at the bottom. Strain is appli
ed at different points on the upper to stretch it on. All the stretch is taken o
ut of leather during lasting, such that the shoe maintains the last shape.
B) Attaching the sole
Attaching: there are many different methods for attaching sole to upper
cemented construction
injection moulded
veldshoen construction
machine welted
vulcanized construction
slip lasted construction
machine sewn construction
Each has its advantages and disadvantages, however this information will not be
discussed here (otherwise you'll fall asleep from boredom!). However the picture
s below should give you an idea of the different ways that the sole can be attac
hed to the upper.
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6. Finishing
Paring, scouring, application of final stains and polishes, then the shoe is tag
ged, boxed and off to market.
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As you can see, the manufacturing of a shoe is a complicated process, requiring
a combination of art and precision engineerng. It requires from 100 to 175 diffe
rent operations to make an average shoe.
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