THE FINE ART

OF MIXING DRINKS

by David A. Embury

T H I S is the Escoffier of cocktail books. N o t

just a compilation of recipes, nor a slap­

dash collection of smart chatter and bit­

ters—it is delightful, urbane reading for

the expert, and precise, detailed guidance

for the novice w h o aspires to prepare drinks

w h i c h are palatable, not merely potable.

THE FINE ART OF MIXING DRINKS

covers every phase of the subject from the

j u d g i n g of fine liquor to the selection of

a corkscrew. It analyzes the qualities of

all basic liquors and points up the dif­

ferences between them—between Scotch

and Irish whiskies, white and yellow gin,

C u b a n and J a m a i c a n rum, etc.

T h e r e is a chapter on glassware, gim­

micks, and gadgets: another on limes.

(Continued on back flap)

T H E FINE ART
OF MIXING DRINKS
 BY DAVID A. EMBURY

THE FINE ART

OF MIXING DRINKS

D O U B L E D A Y & C O M P A N Y , INC., G A R D E N C I T Y , N E W Y O R K , 1948

To my daughter and her husband who, with their
tongues in their cheeks, persuaded me that I owed
it to posterity to commit to paper the wisdom and
learning herein contained, this book is affectionately
dedicated.

COPYRIGHT, 1948, B Y DAVID A. E M B U R Y

A L L RIGHTS RESERVED
PRINTED IN T H E UNITED S T A T E S AT
T H E C O U N T R Y L I F E P R E S S , GARDEN C I T Y , N. Y .
FIRST EDITION
PREFACE

I n the preface or foreword to a book of this kind it

is customary to e x p l a i n h o w the a u t h o r got t h a t w a y ,
a n d to elaborate on his m a n y years of experience in
the liquor business, the hotels a n d restaurants he has
m a n a g e d , the b a r s o v e r w h i c h he has presided, a n d
the celebrities he has served a n d for w h o m he has
graciously n a m e d some of his extra-special drinks.
I n order t h a t there m a y be no misunderstanding,
therefore, I w a n t to m a k e it c l e a r at the outset that
I h a v e n e v e r been e n g a g e d i n a n y of the m a n i f o l d
branches of the liquor business. I a m not a distiller,
a n importer, a bottler, or a m e r c h a n t of liquors. I
a m not e v e n a retired bartender. M y p r a c t i c a l ex­
perience w i t h liquors has been entirely as a consumer
a n d as a shaker-upper of drinks for the delectation
of m y guests. T h i s book is, therefore, purely a n d dis­
tinctly a book written b y a n a m a t e u r for amateurs.
O n the other h a n d , I h a v e a l w a y s possessed a n
insatiable curiosity a b o u t the whys a n d wherefores of
m a n y things a n d p a r t i c u l a r l y of food a n d drinks. F o r
years it has been m y practice, w h e n served w i t h some
especially delicious dish at a hotel or restaurant, to
w o r m m y w a y into the confidence of the chef a n d dis­
cuss w i t h h i m e v e r y m i n u t e detail of its preparation.

v
F u r t h e r m o r e , I chance to h a v e a m i n d that is both
analytical a n d faintly skeptical. I always w a n t to k n o w
not only the " h o w " but also the " w h y . "
Because of these personal traits, w h e n e v e r I h a v e
been served w i t h some drink that w a s either e x t r a fine
or e x t r a poor, I h a v e a l w a y s tried to ascertain w h a t
it w a s that m a d e it good or that m a d e it b a d . T h e s e
bits of information, gleaned piecemeal o v e r a period
of some forty years, I h a v e collated, classified, a n d
filed a w a y in mental cabinets for future reference.
A n d n o w I h a v e emptied out the contents of these
mental files a n d h a v e compiled w h a t I r e g a r d as the
more important of them for y o u r information a n d
guidance.
I n doing this I h a v e assumed that, like myself, you,
too, w o u l d like to k n o w the " w h y " as well as the
" h o w " ; that y o u w o u l d not particularly care about
a m e r e conglomeration of recipes, some good, some
indifferent, a n d some definitely b a d ; but that you
w o u l d like to k n o w w h a t principles to follow a n d w h a t
pitfalls to a v o i d in m i x i n g p a l a t a b l e — a n d not merely
potable—drinks from w h a t e v e r liquors might c h a n c e
to be a v a i l a b l e for use. If a n y pastry cook w e r e to
see a cake recipe calling for 2 pounds of butter, I
teaspoon of flour, 5 pounds of sugar, 1 cup of baking
p o w d e r , a n d 2 cups of v a n i l l a , he w o u l d k n o w that
either it w a s written by a lunatic or it w a s printed by
a drunken typesetter. H e w o u l d k n o w that the q u a n ­
tity given for every ingredient w a s completely ridic­
ulous. B u t that is because he w o u l d k n o w the r e ­
spective functions of the shortening, the sweetening,
the leavening, a n d the flavoring agents a n d the a p ­
p r o x i m a t e quantities of each, in relation to the q u a n ­
tity of flour, necessary to perform those functions.
Y e t m a n y cocktail recipes a r e just as ridiculous as
m y theoretical cake recipe. T h e relative proportions
of basic liquors, modifying agents, special flavoring
agents, etc., are just as important in the m i x i n g of a
cocktail as are the relative proportions of flour, short­
ening, a n d other ingredients in the m i x i n g of a cake.

vi
Y o u r chef m a y use one egg in m a k i n g one cake a n d a
dozen eggs in m a k i n g another, but he knows exactly
the difference in the type a n d texture of the cake that
will result from this variation. Y o u , too, should k n o w
the difference in the type of drink that will result
from v a r y i n g proportions of the several classes of
cocktail ingredients. Y e t , so f a r as I h a v e been able
to ascertain, no book has ever heretofore attempted
to teach the art of m i x i n g cocktails in this simple a n d
logical m a n n e r .
T h e contents of this book are based primarily on
personal experience but also on information gleaned
o v e r m a n y years from the reading of scores of books,
pamphlets, a n d articles of all kinds h a v i n g to do w i t h
the production, distribution, a n d consumption of al­
coholic beverages. T h a t p a r t of the book dealing w i t h
the m a n u f a c t u r e of liquors is, in the l a n g u a g e of the
the old-time securities prospectus, "not guaranteed,
but has been obtained from sources that are believed
to be reliable." C o m m e n t s on various m e d i c a l aspects
of the subject are based o n personal discussion w i t h
leading physicians a n d surgeons a n d on articles found
in publications of the A m e r i c a n M e d i c a l Association
a n d similar authoritative works.
A l l remarks concerning the superior flavor of one
liquor as against another are, of course, based on
personal preference a n d taste. T h e same is true re­
g a r d i n g brands I h a v e r e c o m m e n d e d . T h o s e that I
h a v e n a m e d are the ones I like. M o r e o v e r , drinks
that I h a v e m i x e d w i t h them h a v e w o n the enthu­
siastic a p p r o v a l of m y friends. I m a k e no pretense,
however, of h a v i n g tried all brands of all liquors on
the market. I t m a y well be that there are other brands
of one liquor or another that are just as good as any
I h a v e n a m e d or even better. F e w writers on the
subject of liquors h a v e the temerity to mention brands
at all. B u t , as already stated, I h a v e written this book
for the benefit of amateurs, some of w h o m m a y not
k n o w one b r a n d from another. Of w h a t avail, then,
to be told that good cocktails c a n be m a d e only w i t h

vii
good liquors unless you also k n o w at least one or
t w o brands that are g o o d ?
I n short, then, I h a v e tried to include in this book
a t least the substance of everything that I should w a n t
to k n o w if I w e r e starting in, a complete greenhorn,
to learn h o w to m i x a n d serve i n m y o w n h o m e various
drinks, p a r t i c u l a r l y t h a t c r o w n i n g glory of all m i x e d
drinks—the A m e r i c a n C o c k t a i l .
Is that w h a t you w a n t to k n o w ? T h e n , gentlemen,
"Here's how!"

viii
CONTENTS

PAGE
v PREFACE
1 BASIC P R I N C I P L E S
3 What, Then, Is a Cocktail?
4 C o c k t a i l Ingredients
5 T h e Base
6 T h e Modifying Agent
8 Special F l a v o r i n g and C o l o r i n g Agents
10 GLASSWARE, GIMMICKS, AND GADGETS
11 Glasses
17 Shakers
19 Miscellaneous E q u i p m e n t
21 T a b l e of M e a s u r e m e n t s
23 LIMES, LEMONS, AND LIQUORS
23 Gin
31 Whisky
43 Rum
48 C o g n a c a n d O t h e r G r a p e Brandies
56 O t h e r F r u i t Brandies
59 Miscellaneous Spirits
59 Southern C o m f o r t
59 Aquavit
60 Vodka
ix
PAGE
61 Tequila
62 Absinthe
63 Ojen
64 Arrack and Okelehao
64 M e a d or M e t h e g l i n
65 Aperitif Wines
70 Fortified Wines
75 Liqueurs
78 Bitters
80 F r u i t J u i c e s and Syrups
85 E g g s and C r e a m
85 Ice
87 Soda and Ginger Ale

89 PERTINENT POINTERS
89 Measuring
92 T o Stir or to S h a k e
93 C r u s h e d I c e or C u b e s
95 " A n d a T w i s t of L e m o n "
96 Chilling and Frosting the Glasses
96 Proper G l a s s w a r e
97 "Reaction T i m e "

99 SIX BASIC COCKTAILS

99 The Martini
103 The Manhattan
106 The Old-Fashioned
109 The Daiquiri
111 The Side C a r
113 The Jack Rose

115 ROLL Y O U R O W N
116 R e s t a t e m e n t of Basic Principles
118 Sours
122 Cocktails B a s e d on the Gin Sour
129 Cocktails B a s e d on the R u m Sour
136 Cocktails B a s e d on the Whisky S o u r
141 Cocktails B a s e d on the Brandy Sour
146 Cocktails Based on the Applejack Sour

x
PAGE
149 A r o m a t i c Cocktails
150 G i n Cocktails of the A r o m a t i c T y p e
157 R u m Cocktails of the A r o m a t i c T y p e
160 Whisky Cocktails of the A r o m a t i c T y p e
166 S c o t c h Cocktails of the A r o m a t i c T y p e
169 B r a n d y Cocktails of the A r o m a t i c T y p e
173 A p p l e j a c k Cocktails of the A r o m a t i c T y p e
174 A r o m a t i c W i n e Cocktails
178 LIQUEURS
189 T H E USE AND ABUSE OF LIQUOR
189 Overindulgence
191 P o p u l a r Misbeliefs
192 Does A l c o h o l W a r m the B o d y ?
192 A l c o h o l , the Inevitable C o n c o m i t a n t of Progress
193 S o c i a l Effects of O v e r i n d u l g e n c e
195 H o w to K e e p Sober
197 Is A l c o h o l Essential to L i f e ?
198 Is Alcohol a Stimulant?
199 Is Liquor Fattening?
199 Is M i x i n g Drinks F a t a l ?
204 JUDGING LIQUOR
209 SHORT D R I N K S , INCLUDING MORE COCKTAILS
210 Absinthe Drinks
212 After-Dinner Cordials
219 Champerelles
224 Crustas
230 Flips
231 Frappes
232 Frozen Cocktails
235 H o l l a n d G i n Cocktails
237 Knickebeins
246 Pousse-Cafés
247 Pousse l ' A m o u r
252 Shakes
253 Sherry (or other W i n e ) and E g g
254 Smashes
263 Zombies
265 Zooms
xi
PAGE
267 TALL DRINKS
268 Highballs
273 C o n c e r n i n g C a r b o n a t e d Beverages
274 Bucks
276 Rickeys
278 Collinses
281 Fizzes
287 Daisies a n d F i x e s
289 Juleps
293 Cobblers
294 Coolers
297 Sangarees
298 Slings a n d T o d d i e s
300 Lemonades, Limeades, and Orangeades
302 I n d i v i d u a l Punches
304 Puffs
307 Miscellaneous
309 Squirts
311 PARTY DRINKS
311 Punches a n d C u p s
322 Prohibition Punches
323 Swizzles
325 Shrubs
326 Wassail B o w l
327 Nogs
332 HOT DRINKS
332 Possets
334 Mulls
335 Negus
335 Bishops
336 Grogs
338 Coffee Drinks
339 B l u e Blazer
340 S c a n d i n a v i a n H o t Drinks
342 PICKER-UPPERS
345 FOOD A N D DRINK
348 CONCLUSION
351 INDEX
xii
 1
BASIC PRINCIPLES

A n y o n e can m a k e good cocktails. T h e art of m i x i n g

drinks is no d e e p a n d jealously g u a r d e d secret. N o r is
it a skill to be acquired only as the result of years of
painstaking effort. I t c a n be learned practically over­
night.
Y e t actually few people do m a k e good cocktails.
N o r is this disability limited to the a m a t e u r serving
drinks in his o w n home. F a r too m a n y professional
bartenders likewise seem w h o l l y i n c a p a b l e of turning
out drinks that are uniformly pleasing both to the eye
a n d to the palate. W h y is this? I a m convinced that
there are t w o principal reasons.
First, people fail to realize the absolute necessity of
using only liquors of the highest quality. T h e y are un­
willing to p a y $5.00 for a bottle of high-proof, w e l l -
aged liquor w h e n perhaps they c a n get by w i t h a
low-proof, i m m a t u r e substitute at $2.89. B u t , as has
been well said, a c h a i n is no stronger t h a n its weakest
link. B y the same token, a cocktail is no better than its
poorest ingredient. A good M a r t i n i , for e x a m p l e , re­
quires both top-quality gin a n d top-quality v e r m o u t h .
J u s t a f e w drops of inferior v e r m o u t h c a n ruin the
flavor of the finest gin a n d vice versa.
Second, people fail to understand the basic prin-
ciple of the cocktail. E i t h e r they r e g a r d a cocktail as
a n y h a p h a z a r d conglomeration of spirituous liquors,
wines ( a r o m a t i c or p l a i n ) , bitters, fruit juices, sugar
or sugary syrups, milk, eggs, c r e a m , a n d anything else
that happens to be left o v e r from last week's picnic
supper, or they woodenly follow w i t h drop-by-drop
a c c u r a c y the formulas to be found in some one of the
m y r i a d recipe books n o w a v a i l a b l e at every bookstore.
U n f o r t u n a t e l y a large proportion of these recipes
w o u l d seem to h a v e been devised by persons w i t h no
m o r e experience a n d understanding of the principles
of blending liquors t h a n the tyro w h o so innocently
purchases a n d so slavishly follows them.
M o s t of the present generation learned to drink a n d
most of the present-day bartenders learned their pro­
fession d u r i n g the past thirty years. T h e first fourteen
years of that period w e r e devoted to the famous " e x ­
periment, noble in purpose," a n d the last sixteen years
h a v e not been sufficient to erase the ignoble effects of
that era. D u r i n g prohibition the o v e r w h e l m i n g m a ­
j o r i t y of a v a i l a b l e liquor consisted of bathtub gin a n d
Scotch "just off the b o a t " (ferryboat from either
H o b o k e n or B r o o k l y n ) . So unutterably vile w e r e these
synthetic concoctions t h a t the p r i m a r y object in m i x ­
i n g a cocktail b e c a m e the addition of a sufficient
a m o u n t of sweetened, highly flavored, a n d otherwise
emollient a n d anti-emetic ingredients (cream, honey,
K a r o , c a n n e d fruit juices, etc.) to m a k e it reasonably
possible to s w a l l o w the resultant concoction a n d at the
same time to retain a sufficient content of renatured
alcohol to insure ultimate inebriety. J u s t h o w m u c h
dilution of the "gin"-bottle contents m i g h t be neces­
sary to accomplish this supposedly salutary result
d e p e n d e d largely on the intestinal fortitude a n d eso­
p h a g e a l callosity of the p a r t i c u l a r i n d i v i d u a l i n v o l v e d .
H o w e v e r , only the most r u g g e d S p a r t a n w i t h at least
ten years of vigorous prohibition training could be ex­
pected to s u r v i v e — o r , indeed, to get d o w n — a drink
containing as m u c h as 5 0 per cent of the gin, whisky,
b r a n d y , or w h a t h a v e you of those days.

2
 S m a l l wonder, then, that this period g a v e birth to
such pernicious recipes as the A l e x a n d e r — e q u a l parts
of gin, crème de c a c a o , a n d sweet c r e a m ; the O r a n g e
Blossom—equal parts of gin a n d orange juice, with or
without the white of a n e g g ; the Bee's K n e e s — e q u a l
parts of gin, lemon j u i c e , a n d h o n e y ; a n d so on ad
nauseam. A n d it is only b y regarding them as a more
or less logical, albeit regrettable, aftermath of prohibi-
tion influence that one c a n a c c o u n t for the m a n y
ridiculous formulas still found in the a v e r a g e book of
cocktail recipes of today.

What, Then, Is a Cocktail?

A n d by a " c o c k t a i l " I m e a n a n aperitif cocktail—i.e.,
one to be taken before a m e a l as a stimulant to the
appetite a n d an aid to digestion. Probably as good a
definition as is to be found in a n y dictionary is that
contained in M a c m i l l a n ' s M o d e r n D i c t i o n a r y : " i c e d
drink m a d e of spirits, bitters, flavoring, a n d s u g a r . "
E v e n this, h o w e v e r , is not strictly accurate, for b y no
means do all cocktails contain all four of these in-
gredients. H o w e v e r , before attempting to evolve a
definition of a cocktail, let us first m a k e sure that w e
understand its function. W e cannot satisfactorily de-
termine w h a t ingredients it should contain a n d in w h a t
proportions until w e are sure w e k n o w w h a t purpose
it is to serve. W h i l e there m a y be other desirable at-
tributes of the cocktail, these a r e the most i m p o r t a n t :
1 . I t must w h e t the appetite, not dull it. T h i s first
basic requirement of a good cocktail automatically
eliminates a host of over-sweetened, over-fruit-juiced,
over-egged, a n d o v e r - c r e a m e d concoctions customarily
found in books of cocktail recipes. For e x a m p l e , w h i l e
a n A l e x a n d e r , like a glass of good p o r t w i n e , m a y be a
delightful midafternoon drink a c c o m p a n y i n g c a k e o r
chocolate cookies, nevertheless, i n the sense of a pre-
prandial aperitif, it is definitely not a cocktail.
2. I t should stimulate the m i n d as well as the a p -

3
 petite. T h e w e l l - m a d e cocktail is one of the most
gracious of drinks. I t pleases the senses. T h e shared
delight of those w h o p a r t a k e i n c o m m o n of this re­
freshing nectar breaks the ice of f o r m a l reserve. T a u t
nerves r e l a x ; taut muscles r e l a x ; tired eyes b r i g h t e n ;
tongues loosen; friendships d e e p e n ; the w h o l e w o r l d
becomes a better p l a c e in w h i c h to live. B u t d o n ' t ex­
pect these results if y o u serve bitter drinks, syrupy
drinks, w a t e r y drinks, or drinks that taste like recon­
ditioned tin.
3. I t must be pleasing to the palate. In order that
a cocktail m a y satisfy both requirements I a n d 3, it
must be dry (i.e., not s w e e t ) , yet smooth. I n d e e d , in
c o m p o u n d i n g a cocktail, the first thought should be
the production of a drink sufficiently dry to w a k e u p
a n d energize the taste buds, yet not so sour or so bitter
or so a r o m a t i c as to be u n p a l a t a b l e .
4. I t must also be pleasing to the eye. T h i s requires
no conscious effort, yet I h a v e seen M a r t i n i s that
looked like dishwater just recovering from a b a d case
of j a u n d i c e a n d M a n h a t t a n s that resembled nothing
else quite so m u c h as rusty sludge from the r a d i a t o r of
a Model-T Ford.
5. I t must h a v e sufficient alcoholic flavor to be
readily distinguishable from p a p a y a j u i c e , yet must
not assault the p a l a t e w i t h the force of a n atomic
bomb.
6. F i n a l l y ( a n d r e m e m b e r I a m speaking n o w of
cocktails only a n d not of aperitif wines) it must be
well iced. Of this, m o r e later.

Cocktail Ingredients
A n d n o w back to o u r consideration of the p r o p e r in­
gredients of the cocktail, their respective functions,
a n d the proportions in w h i c h they should be used.
E v e r y cocktail, properly so called, must contain t w o
distinct types of ingredients. I t also m a y , but need not
necessarily, contain a third type. T h e y a r e :

4
 1. A base;
2. A modifying, smoothing, or aromatizing
agent;
3. A d d i t i o n a l special flavoring a n d coloring
ingredients.
L e t us consider t h e m in order.

1 . The base.
T h i s is the fundamental a n d distinguishing ingredient
of the cocktail a n d must always comprise m o r e than
5 0 p e r cent of the entire v o l u m e . I n d e e d , w i t h a few
r a r e exceptions it should constitute from 75 p e r cent
of total v o l u m e u p w a r d . Strictly speaking, the base
must a l w a y s consist of spirituous liquors—whisky, gin,
r u m , brandy, etc. B y c o m m o n acceptance, h o w e v e r ,
combinations of vinous liquors or a r o m a t i c wines, or
mixtures in w h i c h such wines p r e d o m i n a t e , h a v e also
c o m e to be called cocktails; for e x a m p l e , the V e r ­
m o u t h C o c k t a i l , consisting of I t a l i a n v e r m o u t h w i t h a
dash of A n g o s t u r a or a m i x t u r e of I t a l i a n a n d F r e n c h
vermouth w i t h both A n g o s t u r a a n d orange bitters.
A n o t h e r e x a m p l e is the B a m b o o C o c k t a i l , consisting
of dry sherry a n d F r e n c h v e r m o u t h w i t h a dash of
orange bitters.
N o r m a l l y the cocktail base will consist of a single
spirituous liquor, a n d this one liquor, being the dis­
tinguishing a n d p r e d o m i n a n t ingredient, determines
the type of the cocktail. T h u s w e h a v e gin cocktails,
such as the M a r t i n i , whisky cocktails, such as the
M a n h a t t a n , r u m cocktails, such as the D a i q u i r i , a n d
so on. W i t h i n certain limits, h o w e v e r , it is possible to
combine two (perhaps e v e n m o r e , but this is danger­
ous) liquors as a base. F o r e x a m p l e , rye a n d b o u r b o n
whiskies, while differing decidedly in flavor, h a v e the
same essential characteristics a n d m a y be used pretty
m u c h either interchangeably or in combination as a
base. G i n a n d w h i t e C u b a n r u m also blend v e r y satis­
factorily a n d m a y be used in combination. O n the
other h a n d , the indiscriminate m i x t u r e of three or

5
 four or five different liquors is practically certain to
destroy the distinguishing flavor a n d a r o m a of all a n d
produce a result about as palatable as a blend of
castor oil a n d gasoline.

2. The modifying agent.

I t is difficult to find a w o r d that exactly describes this
ingredient (or g r o u p of ingredients) and, for w a n t of
a better term, I h a v e called it the modifying agent or
modifier. I t is this ingredient, in combination w i t h
the base of spirituous liquor, w h i c h characterizes the
cocktail. Without this ingredient the base, no matter
h o w violently shaken a n d h o w thoroughly chilled,
w o u l d still not be a cocktail b u t w o u l d r e m a i n merely
chilled liquor. Its function is to smooth d o w n the bit­
ing sharpness of the r a w liquor and, at the same time,
to point u p a n d a d d c h a r a c t e r to its natural flavor.
T h e flavor of the modifier itself should n e v e r pre­
dominate but should a l w a y s r e m a i n submerged. T h e
gin cocktail should still r e m a i n definitely a n d recog­
nizably a gin cocktail, the whisky cocktail a whisky
cocktail, but the modifier should a d d that elusive je
ne sais quoi w h i c h makes the cocktail a smooth, fra­
grant, inspirational delight a n d not a mere drink of
gin or whisky.
I n general, modifying agents m a y be divided into
three classes:
(a) A r o m a t i c s , including the aromatic wines,
such as F r e n c h a n d I t a l i a n v e r m o u t h , D u b o n n e t ,
B y r r h , etc.; bitters of various types—orange,
Angostura, P e y c h a u d , U n i c u m , etc.; a n d miscel­
laneous aromatics such as A m e r Picon a n d
Fernet-Branca;
(b) F r u i t j u i c e s — o r a n g e , lemon, lime, etc.—
w i t h or without s u g a r ;
(c) Miscellaneous "smoothing" agents—sugar,
c r e a m , eggs, etc.
A l l of these modifiers—particularly the aromatics a n d ,
above all, the bitters—must be used w i t h discretion.
T h e old F r e n c h m a x i m for salad dressing runs, " A
6
miser for v i n e g a r ; a spendthrift for o i l . " T h i s m i g h t
well be p a r a p h r a s e d for cocktail m i x i n g to read, " A
miser for modifying a g e n t s ; a spendthrift for the base."
R e m e m b e r always that y o u are m a k i n g a b r a n d y cock­
tail, a r u m cocktail, a n a p p l e j a c k cocktail, a n d not a
bitters cocktail, a lemon cocktail, or a n e g g cocktail.
J u s t h o w f a r y o u should g o w i t h e a c h agent y o u will
h a v e to learn b y experience, relying both on y o u r o w n
palate a n d on the comments of y o u r friends. W i t h
bitters, a safe rule, particularly if the bitters are used
in conjunction w i t h a n a r o m a t i c w i n e , is n e v e r more
t h a n t w o or three dashes to e a c h drink.
W i t h the a r o m a t i c wines, m u c h depends both on the
type of w i n e a n d on the base. Rye a n d bourbon, p a r ­
ticularly the latter, h a v e a natural affinity for I t a l i a n
v e r m o u t h . O n e p a r t of I t a l i a n v e r m o u t h a n d t w o
parts of bourbon, w i t h a small dash of A n g o s t u r a ,
m a k e a reasonably p a l a t a b l e M a n h a t t a n if y o u like
that drink a bit on the sweet, m i l d side. W h e n m a k i n g
M a r t i n i s , h o w e v e r , assuming that y o u are using a
really h i g h - g r a d e m a t u r e d gin, y o u r m i n i m u m ratio
should be three or four to one a n d , w i t h a twist of
lemon peel or a dash of o r a n g e bitters, a ratio of from
five to one u p to about seven to one is e v e n better.
I t is s o m e w h a t m o r e difficult to lay d o w n a n y gen­
eral rule as to the use of citrus juices. T h i s will be dis­
cussed m o r e at length u n d e r C h a p t e r 6, " R o l l Y o u r
O w n . " I n using c r e a m or eggs, r e m e m b e r , first, that
you are p r e p a r i n g a drink a n d not a m e a l . T h e object
of the c r e a m or eggs is merely to p r o d u c e a drink that
is pleasing to the eye because of its c r e a m y , f o a m y
texture and, at the same time, smooth a n d innocent-
tasting. A n d , oh, boy, these drinks c a n be insidious!
Also, too m u c h of either c a n m a k e y o u deathly sick—
not because of the alcoholic content ( w h i c h is, to some
extent, neutralized by the eggs or c r e a m ) , but because
of the rich, h e a v y nature of the drink a n d the ter­
rifically high calorie v a l u e of the combination. A
reasonably safe rule for these miscellaneous smoothing
agents is a n absolute m a x i m u m of 1/2 a n e g g white,

7
 a whole egg, I tablespoonful h e a v y cream, or I tea-
spoonful of sugar to each drink.

3. Special flavoring and coloring agents.

T h e s e include all the various cordials or liqueurs,
w h i c h will be discussed later, as well as non-alcoholic
fruit syrups. M o r e o v e r , the ingredient that is used as
a modifier in one cocktail m a y be used solely for inci-
dental flavoring or coloring in another. F o r e x a m p l e ,
in the O r a n g e Blossom (one of the horrors of prohibi-
tion) the orange j u i c e is used to modify a n d smooth
out the gin. O n the other h a n d , in the B r o n x the
modifier is the v e r m o u t h (sometimes a combination of
both F r e n c h a n d I t a l i a n ) , a n d the orange j u i c e is
a d d e d solely for incidental flavor a n d color.
O f all the factors i n v o l v e d in the m i x i n g of cock-
tails, flavoring agents are undoubtedly the most
abused. A s has a l r e a d y been pointed out, the g i n cock-
tail should a l w a y s be identifiable as a g i n cocktail, the
r u m cocktail as a r u m cocktail, a n d so on. L i q u e u r s ,
such as m a r a s c h i n o , apricot, crème de menthe, fram-
boisette, etc., a n d syrups, such as orgeat (pronounced
o r - z h a h ' ) , grenadine, falernum, etc., are a d d e d either
as a modifier or solely for color a n d for creating a
faint, elusive, tantalizing flavor that makes the cock-
tail something different from the ordinary. T h e y
should never ( w i t h the possible exception of a v e r y
f e w drinks such as the Stinger, w h i c h is not really a
cocktail) dominate a n d o v e r p o w e r the flavor of the
base. T h e s e special flavoring agents should be m e a s -
u r e d by drops or dashes, not by ponies o r jiggers.
W h e n e v e r y o u see a recipe calling for equal parts
of r u m , brandy, C o i n t r e a u , c u r a ç a o , a n d Benedictine,
w i t h a dash of absinthe, shun it as y o u w o u l d the v e r y
devil. Entirely a p a r t from the fact that such a night-
m a r e combination lacks the essential elements of a
cocktail and, therefore, is not a true cocktail, there are
t w o excellent reasons for a v o i d i n g it. First, the li-
queurs themselves all h a v e h e a v y , o v e r p o w e r i n g fla-

8
vors w h i c h , a c c o r d i n g to h o w they a r e selected, m a y
either blend or clash, but, in any event, taken before a
m e a l , they will thoroughly anesthetize the nerves of
smell a n d taste a n d p r o d u c e the same general effect o n
y o u r palate a n d appetite as a dose of sulphuric ether.
Second, in addition to a n alcoholic content a v e r a g i n g
from 60 to 1 0 0 proof or even m o r e , these liqueurs all
possess a h i g h sugar content. You probably w o u l d not
try to eat a five-pound b o x of chocolates before dinner
as a n appetizer, a n d if y o u did try it y o u w o u l d prob­
a b l y get thoroughly sick. F o r precisely the same reason
(only m o r e so) y o u should not try to consume several
cocktails whose principal ingredient is a conglomera­
tion of h e a v y - b o d i e d , high-proof, syrupy liqueurs.

9
 2
GLASSWARE, GIMMICKS,
AND GADGETS

N o w that o u r cocktail-mixing objectives h a v e been

carefully defined, let us assemble our equipment. T h e n
w e will g o out a n d buy a f e w bottles of liquor a n d ,
after t w o or three further warnings against c o m m o n
pitfalls a n d errors, w e shall at last be ready to step
behind the prescription counter a n d sing out, " G e n t l e ­
men, n a m e y o u r poison!"
T h e r e is practically no limit to the variety a n d
quantity of e q u i p m e n t w h i c h the really serious-minded
master of m i x o l o g y c a n assemble for the purpose of
simplifying (or complicating, according to the point
of v i e w ) his task of c o m p o u n d i n g a n d dispensing
cocktails, Sours, Swizzles, Collinses, Highballs, J u l e p s ,
a n d other drinks. O n the other h a n d , the bare essen­
tials w h i c h c a n be m a d e to answer in a n emergency
are ( I ) something in w h i c h to m i x a n d ( 2 ) something
in w h i c h to serve. I n a pinch, c u p s — e v e n p a p e r cups
(but never tin or any other m e t a l ) — w i l l take the
place of glasses, a n d I h a v e drunk cocktails shaken
u p in a milk bottle w h i c h , since w e w e r e in c a m p
w h e r e all food a n d liquor taste their best, w e r e hailed
by all as potations h a n d e d d o w n by the gods direct
from O l y m p u s . M e a s u r i n g can be done with the eye
( a n d well done if the eye is sufficiently experienced) ;

10
 limes a n d lemons can be squeezed w i t h the hands a n d
strained through a piece of old but clean cloth; two
penknives, properly m a n i p u l a t e d , m a k e a n excellent
i m p r o m p t u corkscrew, a n d so on. A l l these, however,
are emergency measures. F o r simple, easy, satisfying,
a n d gracious service in y o u r o w n h o m e y o u will need
p r o p e r glassware a n d certain b a r equipment.

Glasses
First of all, y o u r glassware, and, since o u r p r i m a r y
consideration is cocktails, let us start w i t h cocktail
glasses. You will find them in sizes r a n g i n g from about
2 to 31/2 ounces. G e t the large ones—not less t h a n 3
ounces. T h e a v e r a g e b a r cocktail measures about 2
to 21/2 ounces, but the glass should n e v e r be filled to
the brim. N o t only does overfilling place too great a
strain on the a p l o m b of the guest—especially with the
second or third drink—but even the f e w drops of
liquor w h i c h someone will inevitably spill will not i m ­
prove either the guest's clothing or the top of y o u r
grand p i a n o on w h i c h the glass m a y be p l a c e d .
A n d let y o u r cocktail glasses be m a d e of glass. T h e y
m a y be either expensive crystal from P l u m m e r ' s or
Ovington's or they m a y be the five- or ten-cent variety
from Woolworth's, but be sure they are glass. I h a v e
friends whose pride a n d j o y are their gold-lined, ster­
ling cocktail "glasses." T h e y are beautiful to look at,
but any cocktail drunk from them tastes like arsenic
a n d rusty tin. F u r t h e r m o r e , be sure that the glasses are
long-stemmed a n d heavy. A stemless cocktail glass is
a monstrosity. Cocktails should be sipped, not gulped,
a n d should r e m a i n stinging cold to the last drop. T h i s ,
in addition to h a v i n g the cocktail itself thoroughly
chilled, requires that the glass also be chilled before
pouring the drink, that the glass be h e a v y so that it
will retain its low temperature, a n d that the glass be
handled by its stem so that the w a r m h a n d will not
come in contact w i t h the cold glass that encloses the
cocktail itself. F u r t h e r m o r e , a n y glass with iced con-

11
 Cocktail Sherry
Glasses Glass

Champagne Brandy
Glasses Inhaler

Whisky Old-Fashioned Punch

Glass Glass Cup

12
 Liqueur Pousse-Café
Glasses Glass

Sour or Delmonico Tom and Jerry

Glasses Mug

Highball Collins Silver or Julep

Glass Glass Mug

13
tents will " s w e a t " in a w a r m room. T h i s is a condensa­
tion on the cold glass of moisture contained in the
w a r m air of the room. W i t h a long-stemmed glass this
" s w e a t i n g " is seldom sufficiently copious to w e t the
foot of the glass, thereby requiring the use of coasters,
but w i t h stemless glasses—even the footed v a r i e t y —
the base will i n v a r i a b l y b e c o m e d a m p a n d l e a v e a
ring on a n y furniture u p o n w h i c h it m a y be p l a c e d .
F o r y o u r O l d - F a s h i o n e d s y o u will, of course, need
O l d - F a s h i o n e d glasses. See that these, too, are h e a v y .
Y o u c a n get them in sizes from 4 or 5 ounces u p w a r d .
T h e usual b a r size is about 4 ounces, but this allows
for only one l u m p of ice a n d one j i g g e r of whisky w i t h
but little space left o v e r for fruit, if y o u wish to
decorate the drink. F o r h o m e use a 7- or 8-ounce size
is vastly to be preferred. T h i s will permit m a k i n g a
" d o u b l e , " using sufficient ice to keep the cocktail cold
to the last drop, a n d will obviate the necessity of m i x ­
ing a second round for a n y b u t the most h a r d e n e d
drinker. E v e n he, h o w e v e r , should not h a v e a second
round of this size as a prelude to a m e a l . I , personally,
h a v e t w o sets of O l d - F a s h i o n e d glasses—7-ounce for
ordinary occasions a n d a slightly larger size ( 1 5 - o u n c e ,
to be specific) for extra-special occasions w h e n serious
drinking is the order of the day a n d the libation is not
poured merely as a prelude to a h e a v y m e a l . T h e s e
glasses, of course, are stemless. T h e ice in the glass
itself keeps the cocktails cold, but, unless y o u are in­
tent on m a k i n g work for the furniture polishers, a
coaster w i t h e a c h glass is a n absolute "must."
Perhaps, while on the subject of glasses, it might be
well to mention others that y o u will find useful in
serving various drinks other than cocktails. Since this
book does not treat of wines a n d beers I shall not
discuss the glasses associated w i t h those drinks except
the sherry glass (for serving sherry as a n apéritif) a n d
the c h a m p a g n e glass, w h i c h is used for serving various
cocktails—especially frozen cocktails.
T h e liqueur or cordial glass is the smallest a n d usu­
ally holds from 34 to 1 ounce. Preferably it should be

14
footed, but since cordials are not iced, the length of
the stem is i m m a t e r i a l . T h e Pousse-Cafe glass is a
straight-sided glass, shaped like a cordial glass but
about twice as high, holding from 1 1/ to 2 ounces. 2

T h e whisky glass is shaped like a n O l d - F a s h i o n e d

glass a n d varies in size from I ounce to about 2I/2
ounces. In the I-ounce size it is called a p o n y ; in the
2-ounce size a j i g g e r , or a drink. T h e pony is useful only
for measuring, since a straight drink of even as little
as one pony is best served in a 1 1 / 2 - to 2-ounce glass.
I n discussing measuring glasses, it m i g h t be well to
note that the w o r d " w i n e g l a s s " as frequently used in
recipe books refers to quantity r a t h e r than a n y par-
ticular style of glass a n d is equivalent to 4 ounces.
T h e sherry glass is a footed glass holding about 2 to
3 ounces, the body of w h i c h is shaped like a n inverted
cone. W h i l e sherry presumably m i g h t taste equally
good (or b a d , d e p e n d i n g on the sherry) from some
other glass, y o u will find this shape i m p o r t a n t in case
you ever w a n t to serve a S h e r r y a n d E g g , a B r a n d y
a n d E g g , or ( G o d forbid!) a Pousse l ' A m o u r .
T h e b r a n d y i n h a l e r or snifter is a n egg-shaped,
footed glass w i t h a small top opening. I t nestles in the
palm, thereby w a r m i n g the contents of the glass a n d
holding the a r o m a within the glass, so that the drinker
m a y sniff appreciatively before a n d during the drop-
by-drop imbibing. T h e p r o p e r ritual is as f o l l o w s : ( I )
H o l d the glass t o w a r d the light, note the exquisite,
a m b e r translucence, a n d e x c l a i m , "Quelle beauté!"
( 2 ) W a r m the glass in the p a l m , sniff, a n d then,
"Quel bouquet, quel aromel" (3) W a r m a g a i n , sip
gently, let the liquid gold roll slowly across the tongue
a n d over the epiglottis (it should be completely e v a p -
orated a n d absorbed before reaching the e s o p h a g u s ) ,
close the eyes, e x h a l e gently, a n d reverently a n d r a p -
turously whisper, "Quel goût!"
T h e c h a m p a g n e glass, like the cocktail glass, is long-
stemmed. I t is s o m e w h a t l a r g e r than the cocktail
glass—usually about 5 to 6 ounces. I t comes in t w o
styles, hollow-stemmed a n d saucer. T h e hollow-

15
stemmed glass is shaped m u c h like the standard cock­
tail glass; the saucer glass is also m u c h the same
general shape but is b r o a d e r a n d shallower. T h e hol­
low-stemmed glass is n o w seldom used because of the
extreme difficulty in w a s h i n g a n d drying it.
F i n a l l y w e c o m e to a g r o u p of tall, n a r r o w (in pro­
portion to height) glasses w i t h fairly straight or
slightly flaring sides, c o m m o n l y loosely referred to as
H i g h b a l l glasses. T h e s e glasses v a r y in size from about
4 or 5 to as m u c h as 1 6 ounces. Strictly speaking, the
small size (about 3 to 5 ounces) is a S o u r or D e l m o n i c o
glass; the next size (6 to 9 ounces) a H i g h b a l l glass;
a n d the largest size (10 ounces a n d u p w a r d ) a Collins
glass. D o n ' t expect, h o w e v e r , to h a v e the H i g h b a l l
w h i c h y o u order at a b a r served in anything larger
than a S o u r glass unless y o u order a double. I t is a
decidedly generous b a r that gives y o u a full 2-ounce
drink in a H i g h b a l l (the measuring glass m a y look
like 2 ounces, but note the w a y the bottom of the glass
is c o n s t r u c t e d ) . T w o ounces of liquor in a 1 4 - or 1 6 -
ounce glass filled w i t h ice a n d carbonated beverage
w o u l d m o r e nearly resemble the traditional S u n d a y -
school lemonade than a H i g h b a l l .
F o r h o m e use I r e c o m m e n d three sizes of these
glasses—a S o u r glass of about 4- to 5-ounce size for
Sours (tomato or o r a n g e j u i c e glasses will d o ) , a
medium-sized glass (about 7 to 9 ounces) for the c h a p
w h o wants just a short H i g h b a l l , a n d the Collins glass
of about 1 4 - o u n c e size for use at the bridge table w h e n
y o u do not w a n t to interrupt the m a k i n g of a re­
doubled g r a n d slam through the execution of a triple
g r a n d coup to m i x a second round of drinks.
O n e other glass of this type that I m i g h t also m e n ­
tion in passing is the Z o m b i e glass. Since the Z o m b i e
will taste just as good or just as atrocious in one glass
as another and, since I trust y o u will serve this drink,
if at all, only on rare occasions a n d as a curiosity, I
suggest that y o u fall back on the good old Collins
glass rather t h a n invest in a special glass for this
much-overadvertised liquid hash.

16
 T h r e e other containers, not strictly necessary but
useful on special occasions, a r e the P u n c h cup, the
T o m a n d J e r r y m u g , a n d the silver m u g . T h e P u n c h
cup, of course, goes w i t h the P u n c h b o w l a n d m a y be
either glass or china to m a t c h the b o w l . C h i n a cups
a n d bowls h a v e the a d v a n t a g e that they c a n be used
for hot drinks—even flaming drinks—that w o u l d
shatter a n y but the toughest laboratory glass. T h e
T o m a n d J e r r y m u g resembles, both in shape a n d size,
G r a n d f a t h e r ' s shaving m u g or his mustache cup minus
the mustache fender. L i k e the china P u n c h cup, it c a n
b e used for a n y hot drink. T h e silver m u g is useful for
a n y frosted drink t h a t is to be sipped through straws,
such as M i n t J u l e p s . I t has two a d v a n t a g e s for this
purpose o v e r glass. First, since m e t a l is a better con­
ductor of heat t h a n glass, it will frost q u i c k e r a n d
better t h a n even the thinnest of glass. S e c o n d , since it
has a h a n d l e ( a n d particularly if the h a n d l e is in­
sulated from the b o d y of the m u g ) , the h a n d does not
come in direct contact w i t h the frosted surface a n d
thus destroy the frost. T h e metallic taste heretofore
referred to in connection w i t h silver cocktail "glasses"
is the result of direct contact of the lips w i t h the m e t a l
a n d is a v o i d e d by the use of straws. T h i s is strictly
de rigueur w i t h J u l e p s a n d similar tall iced drinks,
but, except for frozen Daiquiris a n d the like, w h o the
devil w a n t s to drink a cocktail through a s t r a w ?

Shakers
D u r i n g the w a r good cocktail shakers, especially those
w i t h metal tops, w e r e almost non-existent. T h e y are
n o w c o m i n g back. I n n o r m a l times they c a n be ob­
tained in all m a n n e r of sizes, shapes, a n d materials.
Since metal is a better conductor of h e a t t h a n glass
and, therefore, the ice in a metal shaker will melt a n d
dilute the drinks quicker than in a glass shaker, I
1
r e c o m m e n d glass shakers, b u t w i t h tight-fitting m e t a l
1
There has recently appeared on the market a double-walled,
insulated metal shaker which has received considerable pub-

17
tops. T h e opening of the glass shaker should be large
enough to take large ice cubes w i t h ease; the opening
of the metal top from w h i c h the drink is poured
should be small a n d the construction should be such
that there will be no leakage between the shaker and
the top a n d n o drip from the top after pouring. B e
sure the top is tight enough not to fly off either in
shaking or in pouring, but as a n e x t r a precaution al­
ways hold one h a n d on the shaker a n d one on the top
d u r i n g both operations.
Chill the shaker well before using, either by leaving
it in the refrigerator for a half-hour or by partially
filling w i t h cracked ice. T h i s ice should be discarded
before m i x i n g the cocktail. T h e h e a v i e r the glass in
y o u r shaker, the longer it will take to chill it, but the
longer the drinks in it will stay cold and undiluted.
B e sure y o u r shaker is large enough a n d be sure to use
plenty of ice. If you are m a k i n g cocktails for four a n d
you figure t w o cocktails of 2 1/2 ounces for each, this is
a total of 20 ounces. A q u a r t shaker will be none too
large for this purpose. A large quantity of large cubes
of ice will chill the drink quickly with less ultimate
dilution and, in addition, you must h a v e e x t r a space to
use in shaking or in stirring.
M a r t i n i s , M a n h a t t a n s , a n d other cocktails contain­
ing w i n e c a n be stirred w i t h a rod or long spoon in
y o u r ordinary shaker, but if you serve them w i t h a n y
frequency y o u will find a M a r t i n i pitcher w i t h a lip
designed to hold back the ice w h i l e pouring the cock­
tail a great convenience. W i t h this pitcher you will
need a long stirring r o d — n o r m a l l y of chrome-plated
steel, but until these are a g a i n a v a i l a b l e the plastic
ones n o w o n the m a r k e t a r e reasonably satisfactory.
T h e b a r glass is a great convenience. I use two,
both h a v i n g the same size top but one large ( a full

licity because of the length of time it will keep the contents

cold without appreciable dilution. While it is undoubtedly
vastly superior in this respect to the older type single-walled
metal shaker, I have not been able to detect in actual use any
marked advantage over a heavy, thick-walled glass shaker.
18
 q u a r t ) a n d the other smaller (about 20 o u n c e s ) . W i t h
these I h a v e both the r e g u l a r bar-glass metal c a p ,
also holding a full quart, a n d a cocktail-shaker top
of the right size to fit both glasses. T h e s e m a k e e x ­
cellent shakers for m a k i n g from t w o to eight or (with
the large b a r c a p ) even ten cocktails. W h e n using a
b a r glass without a shaker top, r e m e m b e r always to
e m p t y the contents into the metal c a p a n d p o u r
from that. I t is practically impossible to p o u r directly
from the b a r glass without dribbling. W i t h o u t the
shaker top you will also need a strainer to hold b a c k
the ice while pouring. T h e s e c o m e in t w o styles: a
sort of oversized, perforated spoon w i t h short handle,
a n d a s o m e w h a t larger, flat disk w i t h a light coiled-
spring edge insuring a snug fit in the top of the b a r
c a p . T h e strainer is inserted in the top of the b a r
c a p , the h a n d l e is held between the first a n d second
fingers, a n d the strainer is held in place b y the tip
of the forefinger w h i l e pouring.

Miscellaneous Equipment
A corkscrew, a bottle opener, a n d a steel p a r i n g knife
are absolute essentials. O n e of the best types of cork­
screw is not a screw at all but consists of t w o rather
thin, n a r r o w , parallel steel blades attached at right
angles to a h e a v y handle. T h e s e t w o blades are in­
serted w i t h a gentle rocking motion along opposite
sides of the cork, care being taken not to push d o w n
on both blades at once, thereby pushing the cork into
the bottle, a n d w h e n they h a v e been thrust h a l f w a y
d o w n the cork or better, the cork is r e m o v e d w i t h a
steady, twisting pull. Two excellent corkscrews are the
" K o r k m a s t e r " a n d the "Connoisseur's C o r k s c r e w . "
T h e r e are numerous good bottle openers a v a i l a b l e
on the market. G e t one that is h e a v y a n d w e l l built,
not dainty a n d fragile. A n d don't rely on the bottle-
opening hook of a combination c a n opener, cork­
screw, etc., etc. I h a v e n e v e r yet seen one that w a s a n y
good, a n d some of them are actually dangerous.

19
 S o m e type of squeezer for y o u r citrus fruit is also
needed. W h e n only small limes w e r e a v a i l a b l e it w a s
necessary to h a v e a small h a n d squeezer for them,
but w i t h the large F l o r i d a seedless limes n o w on the
market, a n ordinary lemon squeezer will adequately
h a n d l e both lemons a n d limes.
B o t h a n ice pick a n d an ice s h a v e r w e r e at one time
r e g a r d e d as essentials. I still like a h e a v y - h a n d l e d ice
pick, but I use it entirely in r e v e r s e : that is, holding
it by the pick end a n d using the h e a v y h a n d l e to crack
ice cubes w h e n I w a n t ice smaller t h a n refrigerator
cubes but coarser than g r o u n d ice. T h e ice s h a v e r is
a relic of the days of h u n d r e d - p o u n d ice cakes. It c a n ­
not be used w i t h cubes from y o u r electric refrigerator.
In place of the shaver y o u c a n either w r a p the cubes
in a piece of h e a v y duck or c a n v a s a n d p o u n d t h e m
w i t h a mallet, or you c a n pulverize them in a n ice
crusher. T h e r e are m a n y types of the latter. Personally,
I like m y D a z e y w i t h its adjustable j a w s for three de­
grees of fineness, a n d the same w a l l bracket that holds
the crusher also holds m y D a z e y j u i c e extractor w h i c h
"squeezes" m y oranges, lemons, a n d limes.
Unless y o u r j u i c e extractor embodies a coarse
strainer (the D a z e y does) you will need one for y o u r
fruit juices. T h e type t h a t fits o v e r the top of a glass
o r c u p a n d has a flat, perforated bottom is highly
satisfactory. Y o u should also h a v e a fine mesh w i r e
strainer (such as a tea strainer) for straining y o u r
citrus juices to be used in fancy cocktails w h e r e y o u
wish to retain a translucent a p p e a r a n c e rather t h a n
the cloudy effect of such mixtures as the D a i q u i r i .
J u s t w h e r e the fetish of using loaf sugar for O l d -
Fashioneds originated, I d o not k n o w . H o w e v e r , if
you wish to m a k e yours that w a y , you will need a
m u d d l e r — a n i m p l e m e n t that resembles a miniature
w o o d e n potato masher. T h e m u d d l e r is also useful
in crushing mint if you decide to j o i n the school that
adheres to crushed mint in J u l e p s .
A n ice bucket (either of the so-called v a c u u m v a ­
riety or of h e a v y glass w i t h a tight-fitting metal

20
 c o v e r ) , together w i t h a p a i r of small silver ice tongs,
is useful in serving H i g h b a l l s .
A long-handled b a r spoon is also highly convenient
both for measuring a n d for stirring. M o s t of the old
recipe books state that the b a r spoon holds one half
a teaspoonful. H o w e v e r , I h a v e several a n d I find
that each one holds a p p r o x i m a t e l y one teaspoonful.
Finally, for use w i t h y o u r Old-Fashioneds a n d y o u r
tall drinks, h a v e plenty of coasters. O r y o u m a y pre­
fer to encase y o u r tall glasses in the slips or " p a n t i e s "
that c a n be h a d b o t h in w o v e n straw a n d in knit
twine. M a y b e you can persuade some nimble-fingered
friend of the fair sex to knit or crochet a set for you
that will fit exactly y o u r o w n glassware.

Table of Measurements
A s a conclusion to o u r consideration of equipment,
perhaps a table of measurements might be useful.
H o w m u c h is a dash? Well, a dash is a squirt—de­
livered through the squirter top of y o u r bitters bottle
or w h a t h a v e y o u . A n d , by the w a y , it will be quite
helpful if y o u acquire a few of these tops of assorted
sizes to use not only w i t h y o u r bitters but also in bottles
of absinthe a n d other liqueurs that y o u most frequently
use to flavor y o u r cocktails. A " d a s h " varies in q u a n ­
tity a c c o r d i n g to the size of the opening in the bottle
top through w h i c h it is squirted. Also, like a drop,
it varies a c c o r d i n g to the density a n d surface viscosity
of the p a r t i c u l a r liquid. I n theory, h o w e v e r , a drop
equals one m i n i m , a dash equals ten drops, a n d six
dashes ( o r sixty drops) equal one teaspoonful (one
d r a m ) . A c c o r d i n g l y w e a r r i v e at the following t a b l e :

I drop = I minim
1 0 drops ( 1 0 minims) = I dash
6 dashes (6o drops or = I teaspoonful
6o minims) ( I dram)
8 teaspoonfuls = I ounce
(8 d r a m s )
I ounce = I pony
21
 2
11/2 to 2 o u n c e s = I jigger
4 ounces = I wineglass
8 ounces = I cup
1 6 ounces ( 2 cups) = I pint
25 3 / 5 ounces = I fifth
3 2 ounces (2 pints) = I quart
40 ounces = I imperial quart
(British a n d
Canadian)
2
T h e generally accepted size of the jigger is 11/2ounces. How­
ever, some writers have tried to standardize the size at 2
ounces instead of 11/2ounces. If you use a jigger, test it and
find out how much it really holds.

22
 3
LIMES, LEMONS,
AND LIQUORS

A t the very outset w e should consider at least such of

the basic principles respecting types, distinguishing
characteristics, a n d m a n u f a c t u r i n g methods of the
different kinds of liquors as m a y be necessary to enable
us to select intelligently a n d w i t h discrimination those
that a r e to be used to start o u r supply shelf—gin,
whisky, r u m , the brandy, vermouth, bitters, etc.

Gin
I mention gin first a m o n g the liquors used as a cock­
tail base because, in m y opinion, it is the most i m ­
portant. I f I w e r e to be limited to just one base
liquor I should unhesitatingly choose gin. T h a t is
p r i m a r i l y because, while gin has its o w n character­
istic a r o m a a n d flavor and, if it is good, m a t u r e d gin,
needs no doctoring u p w i t h other flavors to m a k e a
palatable drink, its flavor is so subtle a n d delicate that
it will blend satisfactorily w i t h all m a n n e r of other
flavors in a m i x e d drink. T h e second best of the more
c o m m o n liquors in this respect is w h i t e C u b a n r u m ,
b u t r u m has a m o r e pungent flavor t h a n gin. I t blends
well w i t h m a n y other flavors, both fruity a n d a r o -

23
matic, but, unlike gin, it clashes w i t h some flavors a n d
obstinately refuses to be subdued.
T h e second reason for regarding gin as the most
important of cocktail bases is that, of all the c o m m o n
liquors, it gives the quickest "lift." H e r e , again, r u m
—especially the light-bodied C u b a n r u m — p r o b a b l y
ranks second. R u s s i a n v o d k a a n d D a n i s h a k v a v i t are
in the same category w i t h gin, but they are not exactly
w h a t I h a v e called " c o m m o n liquors."
Of all the liquors in the w o r l d , gin is probably the
most misunderstood, the most maligned, the most
abused. S o unspeakably vile w e r e most of the syn­
thetic concoctions, both peddled a n d h o m e m a d e ,
u n d e r the n a m e of g i n during the prohibition e r a
that it is not surprising that even today the w o r d
conjures u p distasteful feelings in the minds of m a n y
w h o fail to realize that those horrible messes h a d
about the same relation to real gin that iron pyrites
o r fool's gold has to real gold. H o w m a n y people do
you h e a r say that they simply cannot drink gin, either
because they can't b e a r the taste of it or because it
upsets t h e m ? Y e t there are careful a n d experienced
physicians w h o regard gin as the safest a n d most re­
liable of all liquors as a medicinal agent. A n d , of
course, it is the only liquor that is a specific for the
treatment of certain genito-urinary disturbances. I t is
quite possible that some few isolated individuals m a y
be allergic to gin. A particular individual m a y be
allergic to anything. S o m e are allergic to m i l k ; others
are allergic to b r e a d ; m a n y are allergic to eggs. I even
once h e a r d the story of a m a n w h o w a s allergic to
himself. O n the other hand, for every genuine allergy
that exists there are probably at least three or four
that are merely fancied. A n d to say that this ratio
applies to gin is undoubtedly ultra-conservative.

T h e r e are t w o distinct types of g i n — G e n e v a (or

G e n e v e r ) a n d L o n d o n . I n mentioning two types I
omit from consideration both sloe gin a n d bathtub
gin. Sloe gin is really not a gin at all b u t a sloeberry
liqueur; bathtub gin is less than nothing at a l l — m a d e

24
by a d d i n g essences a n d oils to r a w alcohol a n d water.
I h a v e k n o w n m a n y people w h o drank it during the
prohibition era, but I never yet found anyone w h o
really liked it.
G e n e v a gin, also called S c h i e d a m gin a n d D u t c h or
1
H o l l a n d s g i n , w a s originally m a d e in H o l l a n d but is
also n o w m a d e to some extent in the Western H e m i ­
sphere. J u n i p e r berries a n d other aromatics a r e m i x e d
with a m a s h of barley m a l t a n d other grains, a n d the
whole m a s h is fermented a n d distilled together—
very m u c h the same as whisky is distilled. T h i s process
produces a highly a r o m a t i c a n d s o m e w h a t bitter,
acrid liquor w h i c h is unquestionably the finest of all
gins for medicinal purposes. It is a n excellent remedy
for l u m b a g o . I t is even possible to a c q u i r e a taste for
it as a drink, either straight or w i t h a dash of bitters.
A s a cocktail base, h o w e v e r , it is practically worthless
because it will not blend with other flavors—even
vermouths. T h e r e a r e a f e w cocktail recipes based on
G e n e v a gin w h i c h will be included in a later chapter
of this book, but they are offered p r i m a r i l y as curi­
osities a n d are not r e c o m m e n d e d .
W e a r e just beginning to r e c o v e r from the w o r l d ­
w i d e w a r shortage of all kinds of liquors, including
gin. N o t only w a s a good gin h a r d to obtain in the
U n i t e d States, but L o n d o n gin w a s scarce in L o n d o n ,
a n d H o l l a n d s gin w a s scarce in H o l l a n d . S o m e of the
G e n e v a gins normally a v a i l a b l e before the w a r — a l l
2
excellent—were H u l s t k a m p , F o c k i n k , W e i l a n d , a n d
Bols. A f e w of these are n o w a p p e a r i n g a g a i n here.
A n o t h e r splendid old H o l l a n d s gin, seldom seen in this
country, is m a d e by L e v e r t & C o . , A m s t e r d a m , under
the trade n a m e of " O o r l a m — z e e r oude G e n e v e r . "
1
Geneva Gin is also called schnapps (shnahps), although the
word "schnapps" is also sometimes applied to whiskies and
other distilled spirits.
s
On the old building—the oldest tavern in Amsterdam—at
the corner of Oude Zijds Voorburgwal and Pijlsteeg streets,
there is a tablet dedicated "to the old Wynand Fockink Tav­
ern erected in the year 1 6 1 9 " or, as it reads in Dutch, "Naar
het Oude van Wijnand Fockink Opgericht Anno 1 6 1 9 . "

25
 W h e n the G e r m a n s occupied H o l l a n d , Bols m o v e d
to A r g e n t i n a w h e r e they m a d e , a m o n g other liquors,
a G e n e v a - t y p e gin. I t w a s not too b a d , but it did not
possess the s a m e excellence that always characterized
all the Bols products of the old days in H o l l a n d .
Fortunately, Bols is n o w back in H o l l a n d a n d w e are
a g a i n getting its products.
T h e uninitiated w o u l d scarcely recognize G e n e v a
a n d L o n d o n gins as belonging to the same family or
as being m a n u f a c t u r e d from the same substances. Y e t
the pronounced difference in taste results almost en­
tirely from the difference in the t w o processes of
m a n u f a c t u r e . I n the m a n u f a c t u r e of L o n d o n gin the
j u n i p e r berries (together w i t h such other seeds, roots,
barks, etc., as m a y be used for flavoring) are p l a c e d
in the still w i t h r a w alcohol, the w h o l e mass is redis­
tilled, a n d the alcohol picks u p the flavor of these
various substances in the process of redistillation. A l l
real L o n d o n - t y p e gins, therefore, are double-distilled.
S o m e are triple-distilled. B a t h t u b gin is not redistilled,
w h i c h is one of the reasons for its gross inferiority.
T h e r e are two types of L o n d o n gin, dry a n d sweet,
a l t h o u g h all L o n d o n gin is c o m m o n l y a n d s o m e w h a t
loosely referred to as L o n d o n dry. T h e sweet type,
seldom seen on the A m e r i c a n market, is k n o w n as
O l d T o m . I t is simply L o n d o n dry gin to w h i c h has
been a d d e d s u g a r or some similar sweetening agent.
N o t only is it the ideal gin for a T o m Collins but,
strictly speaking, a T o m Collins is not a Tom Collins
unless it is m a d e w i t h O l d T o m gin. T h e substitution
of dry gin for O l d T o m gin in this drink has become
a c o m m o n practice merely because, since prohibition,
O l d T o m is seldom seen in this country.
N o t only is O l d T o m gin the p r o p e r gin for a T o m
C o l l i n s ; in a pinch it c a n also be used for cocktails.
It must be remembered, h o w e v e r , that this gin is
a l r e a d y sweetened. Consequently it will not m a k e a
really dry cocktail, but this sweetness c a n be offset,
at least in part, by a n e x t r a twist of lemon peel or a n
e x t r a dash of bitters. I n m a k i n g gin cocktails that

26
call for sugar, such as a C l o v e r C l u b or a G i m l e t ,
merely cut d o w n on the sugar or omit it altogether.
Of the truly dry L o n d o n gins there are still t w o
kinds—white a n d y e l l o w — a l t h o u g h it is only lately
that a n y substantial n u m b e r of people in this country
h a v e become acquainted w i t h aged-in-the-wood yel-
low gin a n d its outstanding excellence.
N o w , as the old w o m a n said w h e n she kissed the
cow, "Chacun à son goût." T o m e , the king of li-
queurs is G r a n d M a r n i e r , w i t h a f e w others such as
Benedictine, V i e i l l e C u r e , a n d green Chartreuse run-
ning neck a n d neck for second p l a c e . Y o u r favorite
m a y be Parfait A m o u r or F o r b i d d e n F r u i t — t w o that
v i e for bottom place in m y list. H o w e v e r , this book
is intended primarily for the novice w h o wants to
k n o w h o w to choose a n d w h a t is good a n d w h a t is
b a d . T h e r e f o r e , at the risk of putting myself out at
the extreme end of a limb a n d h a n d i n g y o u a s a w
w i t h w h i c h to w o r k behind me, I intend to express
frankly m y o w n personal preferences as to types of
various liquors a n d even as to brands. Perhaps the
limb will be tough a n d strong; perhaps the saw m a y
be d u l l ; perhaps y o u m a y be so busy savoring the
joys of the truly delightful liquors I shall mention that
y o u w o n ' t even take time off to look at either the
limb or the s a w .
P r i o r to World War II there was a plentiful supply
in the m a r k e t of imported L o n d o n gins, including
those m a d e by Booth, G o r d o n , Coates, H o l l o w a y ,
Nicholson, Gilbey, a n d Burnett, to mention some of
the truly good brands. S o m e of those n a m e d are b e t t e r
t h a n others, but all are at least reasonably good. O f
all of them, h o w e v e r , the one of predominating e x -
cellence, a c c o r d i n g to m y taste, is Booth's H o u s e of
L o r d s — a y e l l o w g i n — a n d I h a v e yet to find any dis-
criminating gin drinker w h o disagrees w i t h this.
T h e firm of J o s e p h E . S e a g r a m & Sons, I n c . , has
n o w come out with a domestic yellow gin, A n c i e n t
Bottle, the first yellow gin to be p r o d u c e d in this
country a n d , just as I r e g a r d H o u s e of L o r d s as truly

27
 representing the peerage of E n g l i s h gins, so d o I
consider A n c i e n t Bottle as so f a r superior to all other
A m e r i c a n gins that it a n d the others should not be
mentioned in the same breath. In fact, to m y taste, it
ranks as a close second to H o u s e of L o r d s a n d a h e a d
of most, if not all, of the E n g l i s h white gins. S o m e
of m y friends w h o do not like a pronounced aromatic
flavor prefer it to H o u s e of L o r d s .
E v e n before prohibition days, because of the h i g h
customs duties on imported liquors, a n u m b e r of
British distilleries h a d established b r a n c h plants for
the m a n u f a c t u r e of gin in the U n i t e d States. A f t e r
repeal, w i t h the still higher taxes involved, it w a s only
natural that these a n d other distilleries should again
open here. U n f o r t u n a t e l y — a n d I say this without
fear of successful contradiction—there is n o A m e r i ­
c a n (including the L a t i n A m e r i c a s ) gin, w i t h the
possible exception of A n c i e n t Bottle, that can com­
p a r e in flavor w i t h that distilled in E n g l a n d . J u s t
w h y this is true, it is rather difficult to say. I t is quite
understandable that G r a n d M a r n i e r , a liqueur w i t h
a Fine Champagne (pronounced feen s h a N - p a h n ' y a )
base, could not be successfully m a d e here w h e r e w e
h a v e no brandies c o m p a r a b l e e v e n to a n ordinary
cognac or a r m a g n a c , or that the C i n z a n o organization
c o u l d not m a k e a truly fine I t a l i a n v e r m o u t h in the
A r g e n t i n e w h e r e the full-bodied wines of I t a l y a r e
not a v a i l a b l e . B u t w h y experienced distillers such as
G o r d o n , presumably using the same formulas a n d
methods, cannot m a k e in the U n i t e d States a gin that
compares i n a n y w a y w i t h their E n g l i s h product is
a n o t h e r question.
O n e possible explanation m a y be the difference in
w a t e r . S t r a n g e as it m a y seem to the uninitiated, the
w a t e r that is used in the m a n u f a c t u r e of liquor has a
profound effect on its flavor. I n the m a n u f a c t u r e of
one liquor only soft w a t e r is used, w i t h another only
w a t e r from a limestone area, a n d w i t h still another
only w a t e r from a n a r e a a b o u n d i n g in red granite.

28
E a c h different w a t e r results in liquor h a v i n g a dif­
ferent taste a n d character.
A n o t h e r reason that has been assigned is the l o w e r
proof a t w h i c h gin is distilled out in E n g l a n d . With
very few exceptions, all liquors are distilled out at
proof m u c h higher t h a n that at w h i c h they are
bottled. S c o t c h whisky, for e x a m p l e , w h i c h is usually
bottled a n d sold at between 80 a n d 90 proof, is dis­
tilled out a n d barreled for aging at proofs running as
h i g h as 1 5 0 or even higher. I n general, it m a y be said
that the lower the proof at w h i c h liquor is distilled
out a n d the higher the proof at w h i c h it is bottled a n d
sold, the better the liquor.
T h i s statement m a y , at first, sound p a r a d o x i c a l .
H o w e v e r , the e x p l a n a t i o n is simple a n d entirely logi­
cal. O n e of the objects in distilling liquor is to retain
a sufficient quantity of those flavoring elements w h i c h
give the p a r t i c u l a r liquor in question its distinguishing
characteristics. If liquor w e r e distilled out at 200 proof
( a purely theoretical 100-per-cent alcohol a n d , in
practice, i n c a p a b l e of realization) it w o u l d be plain
alcohol with no flavor w h a t s o e v e r (other t h a n the
flavor, if y o u c a n call it such, of alcohol itself) a n d
it w o u l d not m a k e the slightest difference in flavor,
body, or character w h e t h e r it w a s m a d e from sugar,
potatoes, barley, rye, corn, or any other starchy sub­
stance. I t w o u l d be pure a n d simple unadulterated
C H O H — t h e most absolute of alcohol absolutes.
2 5

N o w , the l o w e r the proof (within reason) at w h i c h

liquor c a n be distilled out, the m o r e of these dis­
tinguishing flavoring characteristics will be retained.
A m e r i c a n gin is distilled out at about 1 9 0 proof, E n g ­
lish gin at about 1 8 0 . The English gin, therefore, has
m o r e b o d y a n d character a n d less of the " m e t a l l i c , "
raw-alcohol taste. Strangely enough, the e x a c t r e ­
verse is true of the practices of the t w o countries in
m a n u f a c t u r i n g whiskies. Scotch whisky is distilled
out at 1 8 0 proof or higher, C a n a d i a n a t about 1 6 0
proof, a n d A m e r i c a n a t 1 4 0 proof or lower. H e n c e the
better body a n d superior character of A m e r i c a n whis-

29
kies as w e l l as the fact t h a t the best A m e r i c a n whis­
kies are bottled in bond a n d sold at 1 0 0 proof, w h e r e a s
most S c o t c h whiskies, to obscure their sharp, r a w
alcohol taste, are w a t e r e d d o w n to about 86 proof
before being bottled a n d sold.
I n saying that the higher the proof a t w h i c h liquor
is sold the better the liquor, I m e a n simply that there
is n o necessity of going to a liquor store to b u y w a t e r .
T h e term "proof" w i t h respect to liquors m e a n s 5/2
p e r cent. T h u s , 100-proof (or 100°) liquor m e a n s
0
that it has a n alcoholic content of 5 0 p e r cent; 8 0
has a n alcoholic content of 40 per cent-—and so on.
If y o u b u y 1 o o ° liquor a n d a d d 2 5 p e r cent p u r e dis­
tilled w a t e r to it, y o u will h a v e 8 0 ° liquor. O n e will
b e as pure, as wholesome, as free from deleterious
substances as the other. B u t the 100-proof liquor will
h a v e 2 5 p e r cent m o r e body, 2 5 p e r cent m o r e c h a r ­
acter, a n d 2 5 p e r cent m o r e alcoholic strength t h a n
will the 80-proof. A n d — a s I said b e f o r e — w h y g o to
a liquor store to buy w a t e r ? Y o u c a n get it m u c h
c h e a p e r from the kitchen faucet or—if y o u live in
the country—from the w e l l in the b a c k y a r d .
I t is strange that so few people h a v e recognized
the importance of a g i n g gin. Whiskies, g r a p e b r a n ­
dies, rums, even a p p l e brandy, are all a g e d . N o one
other than the most confirmed old soak w i t h a case-
h a r d e n e d stomach a n d a total lack of a sense of taste
w o u l d d r e a m of drinking a n y of them fresh from
the still. Yet the same people w h o insist o n a n eight-
year-old whisky a n d w h o delight in a forty-year-old
cognac h a v e become so used to the ginny, tinny, r a w
alcohol taste of white gin t h a t a p p a r e n t l y they h a v e
n e v e r even thought that a gin, too, can be a n d should
be m a t u r e d in w o o d a n d thus a c q u i r e the smooth,
m e l l o w c h a r a c t e r that a l w a y s goes w i t h a superior
liquor. B u t once y o u h a v e experienced the delightful
smoothness a n d fragrance of a m a t u r e d yellow gin
y o u will h a v e no m o r e use for white gin t h a n for
" W h i t e M u l e " whisky or " J e r s e y L i g h t n i n g " a p p l e ­
j a c k fresh from the still.

30
Whisky
I f gin is the most misunderstood of all spirituous
liquors, whisky is probably the most controversial.
W h a t are the relative merits of Scotch, rye, a n d
b o u r b o n ? I f all the best S c o t c h whiskies a r e blends,
w h y are straight ryes a n d bourbons superior to
blends? W h y is a n eight- or ten- or twelve-year-old
whisky better t h a n one that is only three o r f o u r years
o l d ? I f Irish whisky is m a d e , not from potatoes, but
from barley, the same as Scotch, w h y does it l a c k the
smoky taste of S c o t c h ? W h y are r y e a n d bourbon
whiskies frequently prescribed b y doctors a n d Scotch
practically n e v e r ? I s bonded whisky necessarily p u r e r
a n d m o r e wholesome t h a n other whiskies? I s C a n a ­
d i a n rye better or worse t h a n A m e r i c a n rye?
T h e s e a n d countless other questions are w r a n g l e d
b a c k a n d forth by the protagonists of the various types
a n d specific brands of whiskies, usually p r i m a r i l y on
the basis of their o w n taste preferences, sometimes
on the basis of superstitious notions a n d pseudo-scien­
tific information picked u p from genial b u t not too
learned bartenders, but seldom on the basis of intimate
k n o w l e d g e of actual facts. Before b u y i n g whisky for
o u r supply shelf let us see if w e c a n a n s w e r some of
these questions. A n d , first of all, let us a n s w e r the
question, " W h a t is w h i s k y ? "
T h e r e are m a n y different definitions of whisky,
but for the present let us define it as a n y spirituous
liquor m a d e from grain. W e h a v e already seen h o w
gin is m a d e . B r a n d i e s a r e m a d e from fruits, r u m is
m a d e from sugar, b u t whiskies—all whiskies—are
m a d e from grain. Scotch a n d Irish whiskies are m a d e
p r i m a r i l y from barley, rye whisky (both A m e r i c a n
a n d C a n a d i a n ) from rye, a n d bourbon whisky from
corn. A l l the various types normally are m a d e w i t h a
certain a m o u n t of barley m a l t — t h a t is, barley that has
been moistened, allowed to sprout, a n d then kiln-
dried. Scotch a n d Irish whiskies use from 40 per cent

31
to 1oo p e r cent m a l t ; A m e r i c a n a n d C a n a d i a n whis­
kies, usually about 1 0 per cent.
U n t i l a little m o r e than one h u n d r e d years a g o
both Scotch a n d Irish whiskies w e r e m a d e entirely
from barley m a l t a n d w e r e distilled in pot stills. I n
1 8 2 6 the continuous still w a s invented w h i c h greatly
reduced the cost of distillation. T h i s still, however,
produces a m u c h lighter-bodied liquor t h a n the pot
still, one of higher alcoholic content, a n d one lack­
ing the b o d y a n d character of pot-still liquor.
A l l m a l t whiskies are still m a d e in the pot still;
u n m a l t e d g r a i n whiskies c o m e from the continuous
still. Up to some ninety years a g o all Scotch whiskies
w e r e straight whiskies. A l o n g in the eighteen-fifties,
however, the practice of blending m a l t e d a n d un­
m a l t e d whiskies originated, a n d this resulted in a
m u c h c h e a p e r whisky a n d one of a sufficiently gen­
eral a p p e a l so that today a n unblended Scotch
whisky is practically u n k n o w n . L e t it be understood,
h o w e v e r , that they are all blends of whiskies a n d not
blends of whisky a n d "neutral grain spirits"—which
is simply r a w alcohol distilled from grain. T h e blend
m a y be one of all pot-still m a l t whiskies gathered
from various distilleries of the four principal g e o g r a p h ­
ical areas of S c o t l a n d — e a c h w i t h its o w n peculiar
a n d distinctive body, flavor, a n d c h a r a c t e r — o r it
m a y be a blend of these m a l t whiskies with grain
whisky m a n u f a c t u r e d in a patent or continuous still.
F u r t h e r m o r e , w h e n malt a n d g r a i n whiskies are
blended, the whiskies are first aged separately for
several y e a r s ; they a r e then " m a r r i e d " in huge m i x ­
ing vats a n d are then a g a i n stored in oak casks for
still further aging. T h e important points with re­
spect to Scotch "blends" are, first, that only whiskies
are blended, no r a w alcohol, n o c a r a m e l , no prune
j u i c e , no sherry, a n d no other artificial coloring or
flavoring ingredients, and, second, that the blends
are a g e d both before a n d after blending. N o whisky
u n d e r three years of age c a n be sold in G r e a t Britain
and, because of our Internal R e v e n u e provisions, no

32
whisky under four years of a g e is exported to the
U n i t e d States. T h e better brands will run from seven
or eight years u p to twelve or more.
T h e principal difference between Scotch a n d Irish
whiskies is that Irish whisky is entirely lacking in
the smoky taste of Scotch. T h e reason for this is e x ­
tremely simple. I n S c o t l a n d the barley m a l t is dried
in kilns w i t h a porous floor directly a b o v e p e a t fires.
T h e h e a v y , aromatic p e a t smoke swirls a r o u n d the
moist g r a i n w h i c h drinks u p the smoky flavor a n d
retains it through subsequent processing just as hick­
ory-smoked h a m or b a c o n retains its smoky taste from
the smokehouse, through later frying, baking, broiling,
or e v e n boiling, right to the table. I n I r e l a n d , on the
other h a n d , the m a l t is dried in kilns h a v i n g solid,
non-porous floors, a n d the smoke from the fires, there­
fore, has no c h a n c e to reach a n d p e r m e a t e the grain.
T h e r e are really t w o types of Irish whisky, that
m a d e in N o r t h e r n I r e l a n d a n d that m a d e in the Irish
F r e e State. T h e former is a pot-still whisky m a d e
entirely from m a l t e d b a r l e y ; the latter is a blend of
m a l t whisky w i t h g r a i n whisky—usually barley but
also sometimes w h e a t , oats, or rye.
J u s t a brief w o r d about C a n a d i a n whisky ( w h i c h ,
in m y opinion, is all it deserves) a n d then w e shall
get d o w n to A m e r i c a n whiskies, w h i c h , to m y taste
a n d for m y money, are the real royalty of the whisky
clan. M o s t C a n a d i a n whisky is a rye type, although
in recent years some bourbon type has also been
m a d e there. T o me, C a n a d i a n whisky has a l w a y s
tasted like a blend of Scotch a n d rye a n d I don't like
it. I a d m i t that this is an individual idiosyncrasy. I
like both Scotch a n d rye—but I don't like t h e m
m i x e d . I like both r a w onions a n d chocolate ice
cream, b u t I don't like them m i x e d .
A c t u a l l y , C a n a d i a n whiskies are manufactured
v e r y m u c h like A m e r i c a n whiskies but w i t h certain
differences that give them a n entirely different char­
acter. I h a v e already said that the lower the proof
at w h i c h whisky is distilled out a n d the h i g h e r the

33
proof at w h i c h it is bottled a n d sold, the better the
whisky. A m e r i c a n whiskies are distilled out at 1 3 0
to 1 4 0 proof; C a n a d i a n at 1 5 0 to 1 6 0 . A m e r i c a n
whiskies are bottled in bond at 1 0 0 proof a n d at a
m i n i m u m age of four y e a r s ; C a n a d i a n whiskies are
bottled in bond at 90 proof and at a m i n i m u m age of
two years. I n taking A m e r i c a n whisky out of bond
for bottling, nothing c a n be a d d e d to the whisky
other t h a n p u r e distilled w a t e r for the purpose of
bringing the proof d o w n from perhaps 1 0 8 or 110
to 1 0 0 ; in C a n a d a it is permissible to restore e v a p o r a ­
tion losses through the addition of either neutral grain
spirits or green whisky. If y o u like light-bodied whis­
kies you m a y well prefer C a n a d i a n to A m e r i c a n . B u t
if you like a whisky that is full-bodied, mature, rich in
character, a n d entirely free from w h a t I call a n " a l -
coholy" taste, y o u will prefer A m e r i c a n bonded
whisky, as do I .
J u s t a w o r d , now, as to brands of the several foreign
whiskies before w e take u p the A m e r i c a n ryes a n d
bourbons. O f all the Scotch whiskies I h a v e e v e r
tasted, no other c a n c o m p a r e with Fulstrength, m a d e
b y the D r a m b u i e firm of E d i n b u r g h . I t is a well-
m a t u r e d , pure pot-still whisky of 1 1 4 . 2 proof. D e ­
spite the high proof it is smooth as v e l v e t — a true
liqueur Scotch. Its price is higher than other Scotch
w h i s k y — a n d well worth it. I n a highball it will g o
nearly half as f a r a g a i n as ordinary Scotch. O t h e r
v e r y good Scotch brands are J o h n B e g g L i q u e u r ,
Johnnie Walker Black Label, King's Ransom, High­
l a n d N e c t a r , H a i g & H a i g Pinch Bottle, O l d R a r i t y ,
a n d Peter D a w s o n ' s O l d C u r i o . T h e r e are, of course,
m a n y other reasonably good brands, b u t those a b o v e
n a m e d I regard as the very best.
T h e r e are only three Irish whiskies w i t h w h i c h I
a m at all familiar, all of w h i c h are g o o d : E . & J .
B u r k e , O l d Bushmill, a n d J o h n J a m e s o n . I h a v e been
told that P a d d y ' s Irish, m a d e b y C o r k Distillers, a n d
T h r e e S w a l l o w s , m a d e by J o h n P o w e r & Son, are

34
a g e d somewhat longer than the others I h a v e men­
tioned a n d a r e also excellent.
T h e most c o m m o n C a n a d i a n whisky in the m a r k e t
is C a n a d i a n C l u b . I t is excellent (if you like C a n a ­
d i a n w h i s k i e s ) , as a r e also S e a g r a m ' s V . O . a n d
S e a g r a m ' s Pedigree.
A s has a l r e a d y been stated, rye whisky is m a d e
p r i m a r i l y from rye, a n d bourbon whisky primarily
from corn. U n d e r F . A . A . regulations the a m o u n t of
p r i m a r y g r a i n in e a c h case must b e at least 5 1 p e r
cent. I n actual practice about 1 0 p e r cent barley
m a l t is used in m a k i n g both whiskies, the b a l a n c e
being both rye a n d corn. T h e a m o u n t of corn used in
m a k i n g rye varies from 1 o p e r cent to 40 p e r cent. T h e
proportion of the t w o grains used in bourbon d e p e n d s
u p o n the process. W i t h the " s w e e t - m a s h " process
a b o u t 75 p e r cent c o r n is usually u s e d ; w i t h the " s o u r -
m a s h " process about 60 p e r cent. T h e " s o u r - m a s h "
process produces a finer whisky w i t h a magnificent
b o u q u e t a n d flavor. The sweet-mash process, however,
results in a greater quantity of whisky from the same
amount of grain, thereby lowering the production cost.
M y favorite bourbons are O l d Forester, J a m e s E .
P e p p e r , O l d G r a n d d a d , K e n t u c k y Sunshine, O l d
S t a g g , O l d T a y l o r , a n d K e n t u c k y T a v e r n , all b o n d e d .
M y favorite ryes, also all bonded, a r e M o u n t V e r n o n ,
O l d Overholt, M o n t i c e l l o , M o n o n g a h e l a , a n d G u c k -
enheimer. Gibson, w h i c h , w h e n a v a i l a b l e , sold a t a
s o m e w h a t l o w e r price than those a b o v e listed, I also
found quite satisfactory.
A s a b o v e stated, these a r e all bonded whiskies, a l ­
though some of these distillers a r e n o w putting out
blended whiskies u n d e r the same b r a n d n a m e as their
old b o n d e d whiskies. I h a v e never found a n y blended
A m e r i c a n whisky that, to m y taste, w a s e v e n reason­
ably satisfactory. H o w e v e r , there has been so m u c h
misunderstanding on the subject of bonded versus
blended whiskies that before going a n y farther it m a y
be well to see w h a t the real facts on this question are.
F i r s t of all, there is no m o r e g u a r a n t e e of either

35
purity or quality as to whisky bottled in bond than
there is as to whisky w i t h d r a w n from bond for bottling
elsewhere. A w e l l - m a d e , well-aged whisky w o u l d be
just as good if it n e v e r entered a bonded warehouse,
a n d a poorly m a d e whisky w o u l d still be poor if it re­
posed twenty years in a bonded warehouse a n d w a s
finally bottled there. T h e bottled-in-bond label does
guarantee four things:
1. T h a t it is straight liquor, all of the same dis­
tillation a n d the same a g e , a n d not a blend of
different liquors of different ages a n d different
distillations;
2. T h a t that a g e is not less t h a n four y e a r s ;
3. T h a t it w a s bottled at not less t h a n 1 0 0
proof;
4. T h a t nothing has been a d d e d to the straight
liquor other than such quantity of pure distilled
w a t e r as m a y be necessary to bring it d o w n to
1 0 0 proof—no neutral g r a i n spirits or other
alcohols, no sweetening agent, no coloring
matter, etc.
B l e n d s of A m e r i c a n whiskies are of two k i n d s : blends
of straight whiskies (rye or bourbon as the case m a y
b e ) , a n d blends of straight whisky w i t h neutral g r a i n
spirits. T h e label will a l w a y s disclose w h i c h type the
blend is. I n straight whisky blends the label m a y state
either the a g e of the youngest whisky or the age a n d
percentage of e a c h whisky comprising the blend. O b ­
viously the latter method will be followed if the
a m o u n t of whisky older t h a n the youngest is at all
substantial. I n spirit blends the label must show both
the percentage of neutral g r a i n spirits a n d the a g e
a n d percentage of e a c h whisky used.
I f y o u absolutely must buy a spirit blend because
y o u can't get anything else (the only reasonable e x ­
cuse I can think o f ) , note particularly w h e t h e r the
label says " B l e n d e d Whisky" (or, perhaps, "Whisky,
a B l e n d " ) without specifying the type of whisky, or
w h e t h e r it mentions the type, as " B l e n d e d R y e
W h i s k y , " " B l e n d e d B o u r b o n W h i s k y , " " R y e Whisky,

36
a B l e n d , " etc. T h i s is important. U n d e r F . A . A . regu­
lations " B l e n d e d W h i s k y " m a y contain as little as
20 per cent of 100-proof straight whisky, whereas if
the type is n a m e d , such as " B l e n d e d R y e W h i s k y , "
the blend must contain a m i n i m u m of 5 0 p e r cent
of straight whisky of that type.
Since both the neutral g r a i n spirits a n d the green
whiskies used in the various blends a r e practically
sure to h a v e a r a w , pungent, disagreeable taste, the
blender is permitted to a d d "blending agents" u p to
some 2 p e r cent of the total v o l u m e . C a r a m e l or b u r n t
s u g a r ( w h i c h both sweetens a n d c o l o r s ) , p r u n e or
other fruit juices, a n d heavy-bodied sherries a r e some
of the more c o m m o n substances used for this purpose.
A n d n o w that y o u understand the difference b e ­
t w e e n the term " b l e n d " as applied to S c o t c h a n d to
A m e r i c a n whiskies, let us get back to the question of
w h i c h is the better A m e r i c a n whisky, bonded or
blended. B y n o w the answer should be obvious. Of
course there is no accounting for tastes. I h a v e k n o w n
people w h o preferred g r a i n alcohol a n d ginger ale to
a R y e or B o u r b o n H i g h b a l l . I k n o w people w h o c a n
see no p a r t i c u l a r difference in the taste of different
whiskies—rye, Scotch, bourbon, C a n a d i a n , straight
or blended—all are just whiskies. T h e s e people drink
primarily for the " k i c k , " not for the taste. I n m y
opinion, such people should not drink at all. U n ­
fortunately, h o w e v e r , they are usually the ones w h o
drink the most. I f they must drink, then they m i g h t
as well stick to the cheapest, strongest form of liquid
d y n a m i t e they can find. A f t e r all, w h y waste their
m o n e y e v e n on a carefully m a d e blend to w h i c h the
blender has a d d e d a h e a v y i m p o r t e d sherry in a n
effort to smooth out the v e r y r a w taste they c r a v e ?
S u c h people, h o w e v e r , will not be readers of this
book a n d I therefore return to the question of the
choice of the discriminating drinker. People w h o
buy blends rather than bonded straight whiskies
usually d o so for one of two reasons: E i t h e r they pre­
fer (or think they prefer) a light-bodied whisky, or

37
they think the blend is cheaper. L e t us e x a m i n e the
latter point first. I n j u d g i n g price, let us d o so, not
o n the basis of dollars p e r bottle, b u t on the basis of
dollars p e r pint o r q u a r t of straight whisky. I h a v e
a l r e a d y pointed out that blended whisky m a y con­
tain as little as 20 p e r cent of straight whisky b y
v o l u m e ; the rest is neutral g r a i n spirits; i.e., alcohol
a n d w a t e r . T h e s e ingredients are pretty c h e a p . In fact,
if it w e r e not for the I n t e r n a l R e v e n u e tax, the cost
of the alcohol w o u l d normally be only a f e w cents p e r
gallon. F o r practical purposes, therefore, w e c a n
pretty m u c h forget these ingredients a n d figure cost
on the basis of the a m o u n t of straight whisky only.
T h e r e a r e p r o b a b l y v e r y few blends on the m a r k e t
that contain as little as 20 p e r cent straight whisky,
but I do k n o w several w i d e l y advertised brands that
contain 3 0 p e r cent or less. W e l l , figure it out. I f a
bottle of straight whisky costs $ 5 . 0 0 , then, at a n y
price in excess of $I.50 for the same size bottle, a 3 0 -
per-cent blend is the m o r e expensive. E v e n o n the
basis of proof alone it must be r e m e m b e r e d that,
w h e r e a s all bonded whisky is 1 0 0 proof, the blends
r a n g e between 80 a n d 90 proof. T h e r e f o r e , solely o n
the basis of alcoholic content (not a sound b a s i s ) ,
the blends should sell at from 1 0 to 20 p e r cent less.

All this, of course, is pretty much beside the point.

I mention it merely to point out that the man who
really enjoys the flavor of good whisky is simply kid­
ding himself when he buys a blend on the theory that
he is getting more whisky for less money. He is get­
ting whisky-flavored spirits, not straight whisky. Le­
gally, both are whisky (that has been determined
under our Food and Drugs Act), but they bear the
same relation to one another that a pure beef ham­
burger or a pure pork sausage does to a hamburger
or a sausage that has been "stretched" with cereal.
And the same general considerations apply, only to a
lesser degree, to a blend of straight whiskies in which
matured whiskies are blended with young, green whis­
kies.

38
 T h e real test, of course, is y o u r personal taste.
B l e n d e d whiskies are lighter-bodied t h a n straight
whiskies. T h e closer the distillation of g r a i n m a s h
comes to pure alcohol, the lighter the body. T h e sub­
stances ( k n o w n as congenerics) w h i c h give whisky
its character are distilled out a n d left behind w h e n
the higher proofs are reached. Also, the body is in­
creased by aging so t h a t w e l l - m a t u r e d whiskies are
not only smoother but also heavier-bodied t h a n green
whiskies. K e n t u c k y " W h i t e M u l e " — g r e e n whisky
fresh from the still—is anything but heavy-bodied. I
k n o w people w h o like that too. I don't. I f y o u really
prefer light-bodied whiskies, then b y all means buy
blends. B u t , in that case, y o u should realize that y o u
simply don't like r e a l whisky flavor, because the a c m e
of whisky flavor is to be found in a w e l l - m a d e straight
whisky w h i c h has been aged in the w o o d for at least
ten or twelve years—preferably sixteen to twenty.
T h e r e is a great difference of opinion as to the
length of time during w h i c h whisky will continue to
i m p r o v e in the w o o d . F e d e r a l regulations do not per­
mit whisky to be bottled in b o n d u n d e r four years. I t
m a y therefore be said w i t h reasonable assurance that
u n d e r four years a whisky cannot be r e g a r d e d as suf­
ficiently m a t u r e to be really palatable. F r o m there on,
u p to some ten or twelve years, there is general agree­
m e n t that whisky steadily continues to i m p r o v e , but
there are those w h o claim that after some ten or
t w e l v e years there not only is no substantial i m p r o v e ­
m e n t but there m a y e v e n be some deterioration. O n
the other h a n d , I k n o w that immediately after the
repeal of prohibition I w a s fortunate enough to p r o ­
cure M o u n t V e r n o n rye a n d O l d G r a n d d a d bourbon
eighteen to twenty years of age, a n d they w e r e by
f a r the best whiskies I h a v e e v e r tasted. L a t e r I w a s
able to get sixteen-year-old only a n d , while the dif­
ference w a s not great, there still w a s a difference.
F r o m there the a g e dropped to ten a n d twelve years
a n d the difference w a s pronounced. I n these days
w h e n one is extremely fortunate to get a bonded

39
bourbon m o r e than four years old a n d any bonded
rye whatsoever, the ten-year-old that I barely toler­
ated before the w a r w o u l d be m a n n a from h e a v e n !
O h yes, I still h a v e a bottle or t w o of these r a r e old
jewels of perfection, but I don't drink them. I oc­
casionally get out a medicine d r o p p e r a n d gently
anoint m y tongue with a few drops—just so I w o n ' t
forget w h a t real whisky should taste like.
T o d a y , w i t h the almost total lack of a g e d whiskies
as a result of the w a r , distillers h a v e turned to the
m a n u f a c t u r e of spirit blends in order to m a i n t a i n at
least a reasonably high production level. E v e n the
M o u n t V e r n o n Distillery C o . , whose rye I used to
consider the absolute tops, n o w makes only a blend. T o
m a k e matters worse, they n o w advertise " T h e m i l d ­
est M o u n t V e r n o n y o u ever tasted." A s if m e r e m i l d ­
ness w e r e desirable! Of course all that is necessary to
m a k e it still milder is to a d d m o r e w a t e r . T h i s , surely,
is a classic e x a m p l e of m a k i n g a virtue out of neces­
sity! A l o n g m u c h the same lines, one m a n u f a c t u r e r
of Scotch advertises its blend as " T h e L i g h t - B o d i e d
S c o t c h . " T h e s e a n d similar ads are reminiscent of
the canner of t u n a fish w h o did m u c h to overcome
prejudice against this "white salmon" in the early
days by advertising: " G u a r a n t e e d not to turn red in
the c a n . " F o r m y part, rather t h a n turn to whisky-
flavored alcohol, I m u c h prefer to w a i t the necessary
four or five years until genuine, straight whiskies c a n
be m a n u f a c t u r e d , aged, a n d a g a i n put on the market.
M e a n t i m e , if need be, I c a n get a l o n g v e r y nicely
o n other liquors such as gin, r u m , c o g n a c , a n d a p p l e
brandy. A n d w h e n the h a l c y o n days return a n d I
g o to m y favorite p a c k a g e store for m y supply of
bonded ryes a n d bourbons, I shall ask for the products
of those distillers w h o , during the lean years, kept the
faith a n d maintained quality of production in prefer­
ence to m e r e quantity.

O n a c c o u n t of their pronounced smoky taste most

Scotches are not as a d a p t a b l e to cocktail m a k i n g as
rye or bourbon. T h e y should be taken straight or in

40
a H i g h b a l l . Strangely enough, while " S c o t c h a n d
soda" is today the almost universal f o r m u l a for a
Scotch H i g h b a l l , Scotch w a s originally drunk in the
British Isles w i t h g i n g e r ale or, as it is there k n o w n ,
" g i n g e r beer." T h e use of seltzer or soda developed
m u c h later. J u s t h o w the fetish or superstition started
that " S c o t c h a n d soda" is the gentleman's drink a n d
that A m e r i c a n whiskies a r e plebeian a n d inferior, it
w o u l d be h a r d to determine. I strongly suspect that
importers of Scotch, seeking some plausible reason to
justify the additional cost resulting from customs
duties, m a y h a v e h a d something to d o w i t h it.
A c t u a l l y , there are just three differences between
Scotch a n d A m e r i c a n whiskies: ( I ) the only grain,
or at least the predominating grain, used in Scotch is
b a r l e y ; in A m e r i c a n whiskies the predominating g r a i n
is either rye o r corn. ( 2 ) Scotch has a smoky taste
resulting from kiln-drying the barley m a l t over open
peat fires. (3) Scotch (with few exceptions, such as
Fulstrength) is a lighter-bodied, lower-proof whisky
than o u r straight whiskies, although c o m p a r a b l e in
this respect to o u r blends.
O n e other difference respecting age should be
noted. I n the British Isles it is customary to a g e
whisky in re-used casks. T h i s is regarded as a n a t h e m a
by the best U n i t e d States distillers. I n fact, F . A . A .
regulations do not permit an age label unless the
aging has been in new, c h a r r e d casks. A g i n g — i . e . ,
the mellowing, maturing, a n d development of char­
acter w h i l e in the w o o d — i s the result, in part, of slow
e v a p o r a t i o n through the pores of the w o o d . N a t u r a l l y
this e v a p o r a t i o n results in a certain a m o u n t of clog­
ging of the pores as well as the retention in the w o o d
of minute quantities of vegetable m a t t e r w h i c h , in
time, m a y i m p a r t a n undesirable flavor to the contents
of the cask. Unfortunately, there is no fixed ratio
of this retarding of n o r m a l e v a p o r a t i o n a n d maturing.
It is impossible to say that four years in a n e w cask is
equivalent to five years or six years or seven years in
a re-used cask. T h e ratio varies as between different

41
barrels a n d different whiskies. H e n c e the F . A . A . rule.
O n the other h a n d , the regulations d o permit the
green stamp pasted o v e r the cork to state the y e a r of
distillation a n d the y e a r of bottling. If the label says
" F o u r years o l d , " that is y o u r guarantee that the
whisky w a s a g e d four years in a new cask. I f this
statement is lacking but the green I . R . stamp says
"Distilled in 1 9 4 0 . Bottled in 1 9 4 4 , " the a g i n g w a s
probably in a re-used cask. B u t r e m e m b e r that a
twelve-year-old Scotch whisky, because of the c o m ­
m o n practice of re-using the cooperage, will probably
not be equivalent in maturity to a n A m e r i c a n whisky
a g e d twelve years in n e w casks.
A n o t h e r peculiarity of the three kinds of whisky
is t h a t bourbon matures a n d mellows m u c h faster t h a n
rye a n d rye m u c h faster than Scotch. A c c o r d i n g l y , a
four-year-old bourbon will be smoother t h a n a four-
year-old rye, a n d the four-year-old rye m u c h smoother
t h a n a four-year-old Scotch.
I n the last analysis, the only test as to w h i c h is best,
Scotch, Irish, C a n a d i a n , o r A m e r i c a n whiskies and, of
the A m e r i c a n , rye or bourbon, is y o u r o w n individual
taste. A l l of them—assuming equal degrees of skill
a n d care o n the p a r t of the respective distillers—are
equally pure, equally wholesome, equally safe to drink.
T h e same is true as between straight whiskies a n d
blends. T h e one final test of superiority for you is y o u r
o w n palate. To m e , w e l l - m a t u r e d straight bourbon is
the king of whiskies, rye a close second, a n d the others
merely m a k e u p the field. Also, to m e , a n y blend of
straight whisky, either w i t h neutral g r a i n spirits or
w i t h green whiskies, is repugnant. Y o u r taste m a y be
different. S o m e people like coffee, others like chicory,
still others like cereal beverages such as Postum. A l l
these beverages are p o t a b l e ; all, if properly b r e w e d ,
are wholesome. F o r you, that one is best w h i c h best
suits y o u r individual taste.
T h e n w h y do doctors never prescribe S c o t c h ? Well,
some doctors do—albeit they are f e w . T h e r e m a y be
several reasons for this, but perhaps the U n i t e d States

42
 P h a r m a c o p o e i a definition of whisky as " a n alcoholic
liquor obtained from the distillation of ... cereal
grains a n d containing not less t h a n 47% nor more
t h a n 53% b y v o l u m e of a l c o h o l " m a y h a v e something
to d o w i t h it. I f the doctor wishes to limit his prescrip­
tion i n a c c o r d a n c e w i t h the U . S . P . , there are but few
Scotches and, so f a r as I know, n o A m e r i c a n blends
t h a t could fulfill this requirement of a proof between
94 a n d 1 0 6 . F u r t h e r m o r e , the U . S . P . calls for a g i n g a t
least four years in the w o o d . T h i s , of course, eliminates
all spirit blends.

Rum
R u m might, in effect, be called a by-product of the
m a n u f a c t u r e of sugar. I t can, of course, be m a d e from
the fermented j u i c e of the entire sugar cane, but for
the most p a r t it is m a d e from molasses, the h e a v y ,
d a r k syrup r e m a i n i n g after the greater p a r t of the
solid s u g a r has been crystallized out of the j u i c e of the
c a n e . T o this molasses is a d d e d the residue from
previous distillations a n d the m i x t u r e is fermented a n d
distilled. In the case of C u b a n a n d similar light-bodied
r u m s , fermentation is induced b y the addition of a n
artificial yeast c u l t u r e ; in the case of J a m a i c a r u m , no
cultured yeast is used a n d fermentation is the result
of exposure of the m a s h to the air, from w h i c h it ab­
sorbs wild yeasts. T h i s process is s o m e w h a t slower than
the C u b a n process but yields a r u m of a n entirely
different body a n d character. A f t e r fermentation is
complete the resultant m a s h is distilled a n d aged.
C u b a n r u m is also filtered through sand a n d c h a r c o a l
a n d , after filtering, c a r a m e l is a d d e d ( a n d sometimes
fruit juices or wines) to g i v e color a n d flavor. T h e
light body of C u b a n rums a n d the absence of the
pungent a r o m a a n d flavor characterizing J a m a i c a
rums are due in p a r t to this filtering process a n d in
p a r t to the h i g h e r proof at w h i c h C u b a n r u m is dis­
tilled out.

43
 T h e various rums m a y be divided into three classes:
1 . T h e light-bodied C u b a n r u m s ;
2. T h e heavy-bodied J a m a i c a a n d Demerara
rums;
3. T h e "in-betweeners," w h i c h run all the w a y
from B a r b a d o s a n d N e w E n g l a n d rums—almost,
but not quite as heavy-bodied as the J a m a i c a s —
through the V i r g i n Islands, M a r t i n i q u e , S a n t o
D o m i n g a n , H a i t i a n , a n d M e x i c a n rums, d o w n
to those Puerto R i c a n rums that are supposed
to be (but are not) the s a m e — o r "just as g o o d "
— a s the C u b a n rums.

There is still a fourth type of rum, seldom seen in this

country but used a great deal in the Netherlands and
the Scandinavian countries, and that is Batavia arak,
a highly aromatic rum that comes from Batavia on the
island of Java in the Dutch East Indies. It is extremely
dry—almost like a brandy—and pungent. It is made
from Javanese molasses mixed with a small quantity
of Javanese red rice. Like Jamaica rum, fermentation
is due entirely to wild yeasts. It is the basic ingredient
of Arrack Punsch—commonly known here as Swedish
Punch.
Beef liver and porterhouse steaks both come from
steer beef, but there the similarity ends. Cuban and
Jamaica rum are both made from sugar, but they are
as dissimilar in taste and use as porterhouse and liver
or as gin and whisky. The two simply cannot be sub­
stituted for one another in the mixing of drinks.
Cuban rum—especially the white label rum—has
only a faint, elusive flavor and, since this flavor is
delicate and subdued, the rum will blend with almost
any other liquor, fruit juice, fruit syrup, liqueur, or
what have you. Like gin, therefore, it is the cocktail
base par excellence. Jamaica rum, on the other hand,
has a pungent, all-pervasive bouquet that definitely
refuses to be subdued, tamed, or overcome by any
other flavor whatsoever. It should therefore be used
not as a cocktail base but as a flavoring agent. In cock­
tails, Cuban rum should be used by the jigger; Jamaica
44
rum by the dash. Jamaica rum blends beautifully with
all fruit flavors and with nearly all liqueurs—even
those that are highly aromatic. You can readily under­
stand the characteristics of the two rums if you will
mix each of them separately with equal parts of apri­
cot brandy. In the case of the Cuban rum mixture,
you will have an apricot drink with a faint rum flavor;
in the case of the Jamaica rum, you will have a rum
drink with a faint apricot flavor.
But, whereas Cuban rum is the superior rum for a
cocktail base, Jamaica is the better type for long
drinks, such as the Planters' Punch. It is also the rum
for use in cooking and in flavoring candies, sauces, ice
creams, etc. It is a magnificent addition to coffee,
either hot or cold, and even to tea. Both in flavoring
foods and in flavoring drinks, it must be used with dis­
cretion andfinesse,for it is an outstanding example of
multum in parvo.
All liquors sold in the United States must pay the
United States Internal Revenue tax. In addition, im­
ported liquors are also subject to import duties. Be­
cause of this latter fact and because Puerto Rico is a
possession of the United States and its products are
not subject to import duties, there has been a tre­
mendous growth in the manufacture of rum in Puerto
Rico since prohibition repeal. At least two of the fine
old distillers of Cuban rum have acquired distilleries
in Puerto Rico and now make rum there as well as in
Cuba. Whether it is because of the difference in water
or because of differences in soil and climate, I do not
know, but, in any event, the Puerto Rican rums are
definitely inferior to the Cuban. Even the Puerto
Rican rum made by the fine old firm of Bacardi y Cia.
can in no way compare with their rum made in Santi­
ago de Cuba. There has been a notable improvement
in the Puerto Rican rums during the last few years
and some are not too bad. Of those I have tried I
have found Bacardi, Ronrico, and Daiquiri Cocktelera
the best. As already stated, however, none is quite as
good as the better brands of Cuban rum and, of the

45
C u b a n brands, I particularly recommend H a v a n a
C l u b a n d B a c a r d i . T h e C u b a n r u m costs more but is
well w o r t h the difference.
C u b a n rums are m a d e in t w o types, white label or
carta blanca a n d gold label or carta oro. T r a d i t i o n ­
ally, the gold label r u m is sweeter, heavier, a n d has
been a g e d longer, hence the price is usually somewhat
higher. T o d a y in actual practice, however, both rums
obtain their color primarily from the addition of
c a r a m e l rather than from a g i n g ( w h i c h is done in un-
charred oak casks) and, since c a r a m e l is c h e a p , it is
rather difficult to justify the higher price charged for
the gold label type. T h e gold label type is more like a
B a r b a d o s or H a i t i a n r u m a n d is used primarily in
long drinks. T h e white label is definitely the type for
cocktails, whether used only w i t h fruit juices a n d
sugar, as in the D a i q u i r i , or w h e t h e r combined w i t h
other flavors, such as the various fruit liqueurs.
Before the w a r the finest J a m a i c a rums w e r e those
shipped to E n g l a n d for aging in the bonded w a r e ­
houses in L o n d o n a n d w e r e k n o w n as L o n d o n D o c k
rums. T h e foggy, d a m p a i r of L o n d o n is supposed to
be responsible for the peculiar excellence of these
rums. T h e exigencies of w a r , of course, h a v e inter­
rupted the shipment a n d storage of these rums for the
past ten years. W h e n they m a y again be available, I
h a v e no idea. Of the various top-quality J a m a i c a
liqueur rums, the finest I h a v e e v e r found are M y e r s ' s
M o n a ( a g e d for some thirty y e a r s ) , W r a y & N e p h e w s '
Special R e s e r v e (eighteen y e a r s ) , Bellows' L i q u e u r
(seventeen y e a r s ) , a n d L e m o n H a r t L i q u e u r . T h e s e
are all true liqueur rums w i t h a m e l l o w smoothness,
bouquet, a n d flavor c o m p a r a b l e to fine old brandies.
It is really a sacrilege to use a n y of them in a cocktail
or any other m i x e d drink. T h e y should be taken
straight, the same as a F i n e C h a m p a g n e , a n a r m a g n a c ,
or any fine old cordial. Of the rank a n d file of J a m a i c a
rums suitable for use in cocktails, in long r u m drinks,
a n d in cooking, there are m a n y excellent brands. I
particularly r e c o m m e n d Portal, D i n g w a l l & Norris's

46
Bellows; Wray & Nephews' Three Dagger; Charley's
R o y a l R e s e r v e ; L e m o n H a r t ; a n d M y e r s & Son's
Planters' P u n c h .
D e m e r a r a rums are m a d e from sugar produced in
the D e m e r a r a R i v e r section of British G u i a n a . While
they are both d a r k e r a n d heavier-bodied than J a m a i c a
rums, they lack the pungent bouquet of the J a m a i c a
r u m . T h e y are sold in high proofs—up to 1 5 1 ° — a n d
are most useful in m a k i n g high-powered drinks that
still d o not taste strongly alcoholic. T h e y are there­
fore useful in m a k i n g hot toddies a n d grog a n d h e a v y -
bodied punches, not to mention ( a n d perhaps it might
be just as well if I did not mention it) the Z o m b i e ,
w h i c h contains a n almost microscopic a m o u n t of 1 5 1 -
proof D e m e r a r a floated o n top. D e m e r a r a r u m does
not h a v e sufficient a r o m a a n d character to m a k e good
tall drinks, a n d it is practically useless for cocktails.
Bellows a n d L e m o n H a r t a r e both acceptable.
Y o u c a n get a l o n g v e r y nicely w i t h t w o rums only
for y o u r supply shelf, C u b a n white label for a cock­
tail base a n d J a m a i c a for tall drinks a n d for a d d i n g a
spicy flavor to some of y o u r ultra-ultra cocktails.
H o w e v e r , for the sake of variety, y o u m a y also w a n t
to a d d to y o u r collection one or two bottles of the "in-
betweeners." T h e s e are all sufficiently heavy-bodied
to use in tall drinks a n d they will w o r k reasonably
w e l l — a t least as well as a C u b a n gold label—as a
base for certain cocktails. F o r e x a m p l e , the B a r b a d o s
r u m cocktail a n d the H a i t i a n r u m cocktail are m a d e
exactly like a D a i q u i r i except for the r u m used. T h e y
are similar to a D a i q u i r i , yet different. B e c a u s e of
their h e a v i e r body, m a n y like them better t h a n a true
Daiquiri.
I n m a k i n g cocktails in w h i c h liqueurs or fruit syrups
are used for flavoring, h o w e v e r , y o u must exercise dis­
cretion a n d d o a certain a m o u n t of experimenting.
T h e s e rums all blend well w i t h fruit flavors, but the
fruit flavor does not stand out the same as it docs in
combination w i t h C u b a n white r u m . A c c o r d i n g l y , in
order to get the p e a c h , cherry, apricot, or other flavor

47
 you are seeking it m a y be necessary to use so m u c h of
the liqueur that the cocktail is entirely ruined by over-
sweetness. In general, it m a y b e said that, while C u b a n
white r u m blends well with fruit liqueurs, it will be
best w i t h the h e a v i e r rums to use fruit brandies. F o r
e x a m p l e , use C h e r r y H e e r i n g to flavor C u b a n r u m ,
but use kirschwasser (a cherry b r a n d y ) with B a r b a d o s ,
Haitian, or N e w England rum.
Of the various B a r b a d o s rums, I suggest L i g h t -
bourn's, G o d d a r d ' s , o r C o c k a d e ; of the M a r t i n i q u e
rums, Bardinet's N e g r i t a , M a r i e Brizard's Charleston,
o r Ernest L a m b e r t ' s S t . J a m e s ; a n d of the H a i t i a n
rums, Sarthe.
I h a v e n e v e r y e t tasted a good V i r g i n Islands r u m ,
but O l d St. C r o i x a n d C r u z a n are probably the best
I h a v e tried a n d G o v e r n m e n t House the worst.
M e x i c a n rums v a r y all the w a y from the unbeliev­
ably vile u p to one of the smoothest, most palatable,
medium-bodied rums I h a v e ever k n o w n . T h i s par­
ticular r u m , B e r r e t e a g a , unfortunately, is not exported
to the U n i t e d States, but if y o u chance to live n e a r the
border y o u m i g h t be able to find it. I t is m a d e in the
state of T a b a s c o , M e x i c o , a n d is said to acquire its
delightful, m e l l o w flavor from a g i n g in prune-soaked
oak casks.
G o o d , well-aged N e w E n g l a n d rums are h a r d to
find, b u t O l d M e d f o r d a n d Austin, Nichols & C o . ' s
O l d N e w E n g l a n d are the t w o best I h a v e found. T h e
latter is a n eighteen-year-old r u m a n d is excellent.

Cognac and Other Grape Brandies

Brandy is not only the oldest of all liquors but is uni­
versally recognized as the finest. In our pharmaco­
poeia it used to be known as Sp. Vini Gall.—Spiritus
Vini Gallici—or French spirit of the grape. This has
now been changed to Sp. Vini Vitis, or spirit of the
grape vine. It is the Latin aqua vitae, the French eau
de vie, or water of life. For centuries its use was con­
fined almost exclusively to medicinal purposes and it
48
was prescribed for almost every conceivable ailment.
A l t h o u g h the term " b r a n d y " is usually accepted as
connoting g r a p e brandy, in its b r o a d e r sense the term
applies to liquor distilled from any fruit as distin­
guished from those distilled from grain (whiskies) a n d
from s u g a r ( r u m s ) . T h u s , in addition to g r a p e bran­
dies, w e h a v e cherry b r a n d y ( k i r s c h ) , p r u n e or plum
b r a n d y (slivovitz, quetsch, a n d m i r a b e l l e ) , apple,
peach, a n d apricot brandies, a n d — a l t h o u g h but little
k n o w n — e v e n a n orange brandy. T h e firm of Z w a c k
of Budapest, H u n g a r y , also makes a delicious rasp­
berry b r a n d y called Himbergeist—the spirit of the
r a s p b e r r y — a n d in F r a n c e a n d Switzerland, essentially
the same type of raspberry b r a n d y is called framboise
(pronounced frahN-bwahze).
Of all the g r a p e brandies of the w o r l d , practically
every connoisseur will agree that c o g n a c is the finest
a n d that the best of the cognacs is a F i n e C h a m p a g n e .
A l l cognac comes from the C o g n a c district lying along
the C h a r e n t e R i v e r in S o u t h F r a n c e , not f a r from
B o r d e a u x . T h i s a r e a is divided into eight zones, a n d at
the v e r y heart of the district lies the G r a n d e C h a m ­
p a g n e from w h i c h c o m e the F i n e C h a m p a g n e s , the
aristocracy of the cognacs. T h e grapes that go into
all cognacs are g r o w n , picked, pressed, fermented, dis­
tilled, aged, a n d bottled in this same C o g n a c region.
N o t a single drop of any other w i n e or b r a n d y is ever
allowed to enter a bottle of cognac.
T h e peculiar excellence of this liquor is due, first,
to the soil a n d climate of the region w h e r e the grapes
are p r o d u c e d a n d , second, to the loving care a n d fierce
pride w i t h w h i c h every operation, beginning with the
cultivation of the grapes a n d culminating in the aging
a n d bottling of the b r a n d y itself, is performed. T h e
soil is rich in limestone a n d is fine a n d light as a n
ash h e a p . T h r o u g h o u t the entire s u m m e r the grapes
luxuriate in a superabundance of golden sunlight.
T h r o u g h o u t the entire g r o w i n g season, therefore, the
fruit drinks in both from the soil a n d from the a i r
those elements that are transmuted by the alchemy of

49
nature into the j u i c e w h i c h later is to become the
liquid gold called c o g n a c .
I t should be mentioned in passing that the C h a m ­
p a g n e subdivision of the C o g n a c district is a n entirely
different district from t h a t of N o r t h F r a n c e from
w h i c h w e get o u r sparkling c h a m p a g n e w i n e . In fact,
strangely enough, the wines themselves from w h i c h
cognac is m a d e are sour, brackish, a n d distinctly un­
palatable. I t is only after they h a v e been distilled a n d
aged that they acquire the smoothness, the bouquet,
a n d the c h a r a c t e r that m a k e t h e m the toast not only
of F r a n c e but of the entire w o r l d .
T h e wines are distilled only in pot stills a n d every
step is u n d e r strict governmental supervision. E a c h
still is locked a n d sealed, a n d during the entire dis­
tilling season, w h i c h m a y r u n to six months or more,
the stills are in continuous operation day a n d night
a n d every d a y including S u n d a y s . E a c h a n d every step
of the operation is performed w i t h meticulous care
a n d w i t h painstaking perfection of detail. T h i s , as has
already been suggested, is a labor of love for the
greater glory of the district a n d its product.
Since A m e r i c a n connoisseurs are definitely a g e -
conscious respecting most liquors a n d especially bran­
dies, it seems strange, a t first blush, that the F r e n c h
G o v e r n m e n t , w h i c h is so extremely painstaking in
protecting cognacs against adulteration by so m u c h as
a single drop of w i n e from a different district even of
F r a n c e itself, should give practically no consideration
to the question of a g e . No a t t e m p t w h a t s o e v e r is m a d e
to register casks in b o n d as to a g e , to certify the age,
or even to prevent bottlers from mislabeling as to age.
O n second thought, h o w e v e r , the reason becomes a p ­
parent. W e i n this country b u y o u r liquors b y the
l a b e l ; the F r e n c h m a n buys b y the taste. I t is altogether
possible t h a t one twenty-year-old b r a n d y m a y be in­
finitely superior to another of twice that age. T h e
F r e n c h m a n tastes first, then buys. W e in this country,
u n d e r the customary strict laws differentiating be­
tween sales for "on premises" a n d "off premises" con­

50
sumption—between the p a c k a g e store a n d the saloon
— m u s t buy first a n d taste afterward. W e dare not
even d r a w the cork from the bottle until w e h a v e left
the premises w h e r e the purchase w a s m a d e . W e must
therefore rely first of all on the integrity of the bottler
a n d , since the same bottler m a y p u t out a half dozen
or more grades of v a r y i n g ages, on his statement as to
the a g e .
R e l i a b l e exporters ( a n d their A m e r i c a n distribu­
tors) are loath to allege a definite a g e w h i c h they
cannot accurately determine. U n d e r existing circum­
stances it is in m a n y cases practically impossible to
state the exact a g e of a cognac, particularly since the
constant loss from e v a p o r a t i o n during the a g i n g proc­
ess is m a d e u p from time to time a n d not always with
b r a n d y of exactly the same a g e . Partly for that reason
it has become customary to use on b r a n d y labels letters
indicating quality rather than a g e . T h e s e letters a n d
their meanings are as follows:

E — e x t r a or especial P — pale
F — fine S — superior
M — mellow V — very
O — old X — extra

T h e s e letters, unfortunately, m e a n little as to true a g e .

E v e n the c o m m o n three-star label has no particular
significance. O n e three-star b r a n d y m a y be five or six
years, another eight or ten years, a n d still another
twelve or fifteen years old. I n general, h o w e v e r , it
m a y be said that three-star is the youngest of the
brandies labeled as to quality (except those of bottlers
— i f there still be a n y — w h o use one- or two-star
l a b e l s ) , V . O . the next oldest, V . S . O . the next,
V . S . O . P . the next, a n d V . V . S . O . P . the oldest, with the
various E , M , a n d X labels falling in between accord­
ing to the fancy of the individual producer.
T h e r e is a great difference of opinion a m o n g con­
noisseurs a n d experts as to the effect of aging beyond
a period of perhaps forty or fifty years. B e y o n d that
age m a n y c l a i m that the liquor has a tendency to

51
break d o w n a n d actually deteriorate. O f course this re­
fers—as does the a g i n g of all spirituous liquors—to
a g i n g in the w o o d and, in the case of cognacs, to a g i n g
in casks of uncharred oak from the forests of L i m o g e s .
O n c e bottled a n d tightly sealed, the liquor will be the
same a hundred years later as it w a s the d a y it w a s
bottled. A l l I c a n say on the subject of a g e is that I
still h a v e cognacs (some F i n e C h a m p a g n e s a n d some
not) of ten, twenty, forty, a n d sixty years, respectively,
one bottle of M o n n e t 1 8 5 8 (supposedly eighty years
o l d ) , a n d one bottle labeled " N a p o l e o n 1 8 1 1 . " U p to
the forty-year-old the difference in quality is a p p r o x i ­
mately in proportion to the respective a g e s ; the sixty-
year-old ( a M a r i e B r i z a r d F i n e C h a m p a g n e ) is
slightly better than the forty-year-old but not propor­
tionately better; a n d the M o n n e t 1 8 5 8 is the best of
the lot but by no means twice as good as the forty-
year-old. T h e alleged N a p o l e o n 1 8 1 1 is perhaps some­
w h a t better t h a n the ten-year-olds but does not
c o m p a r e w i t h the twenty-year-olds.
F o r cocktails, such as the Side C a r , a three-star
c o g n a c is entirely adequate, although a ten-year-old
c o g n a c will produce a better drink. I cannot deny that
a still smoother a n d more delightful drink w o u l d re­
sult from using a cognac of twenty years or m o r e , but
I do say that to m i x this nectar of the g o d s w i t h any
other substance w h a t s o v e r — e v e n a single drop of
w a t e r — w o u l d be sacrilege, p u r e a n d simple.
O n e other point should be mentioned before leav­
ing the subject of cognacs a n d that is that practically
all brands today are blends a n d that it is this skillful
blending that produces the finest brandies. T h i s , of
course, is a blending of certified c o g n a c brandies only,
the only other additions permitted being distilled
w a t e r to b r i n g the liquor d o w n to the required proof
0 0
of some 8 0 to 9 0 and, in some cases, a small a m o u n t
of c a r a m e l to deepen the color. T h e various cognacs
are selected—one for its strength, another for its mel­
lowness, another for its color, a n d so o n — a n d m i x e d
in h u g e vats w h e r e they r e m a i n for several months

52
until thoroughly blended, after w h i c h they are bottled.
T h e next time you sip a F i n e C h a m p a g n e with your
after-dinner coffee, just pause a n d reflect on the
painstaking labor that goes into the cultivation, har-
vesting, and pressing of sufficient grapes to produce a
single q u a r t of w i n e ; on the further labor of ferment-
ing, settling, and decanting that w i n e ; on the still
further labor of distilling it a n d laying it a w a y in
casks, in tending the casks, refilling them, a n d in
finally blending and bottling their contents; reflect on
the 90-per-cent loss in quantity resulting from distil-
lation and on the still further losses due to evaporation
d u r i n g the m a n y years of a g i n g ; and, finally, reflect on
the twenty, forty, or sixty years that this liquor lay
a g i n g in h e a v y oak casks buried in cellars deep d o w n
in the ground. J u s t m a k e yourself realize that it took
a n entire quart of wine—the product of I k n o w not
h o w m a n y grapes—plus all that w o r k a n d all those
years to produce the one small glass of b r a n d y y o u
hold in y o u r h a n d . T h e n , a n d then only, c a n y o u fully
appreciate the true v a l u e of real cognac.
W i t h the end of the w a r , cognacs are a g a i n a p p e a r -
ing on the market, although thus f a r but f e w of any
substantial age. F o r the present, of course, one must
take w h a t he c a n find. A m o n g m y favorite brands of
p r e - w a r days are M o n n e t ( m o h - n a y ' ) , M a r i e B r i z a r d
( b r e e - z a h r ' ) , O t a r d D u p u y (oh-tar' d e e - p w e e ' ) ,
R e m y M a r t i n (ray'-mee m a r - t e N ' ) , G a u t i e r (goat-
y a y ' ) , a n d Courvoisier ( k o o r - v w a h s - y a y ' ) . I also
found C u s e n i c r ( k e e - s e n - y a y ' ) , Bisquit D u b o u c h é
(bis'-kwee d e ë - b o o - s h a y ' ) , a n d J u l e s R o b i n (zhul
ro-beN') highly satisfactory. T w o other w e l l - k n o w n
old brands a r e : G e t ( z h a y ) , m a d e by G e t Frères, a n d
R o u y e r ( r o o - y a y ' ) m a d e by R o u y e r , Guillet & C i e .
O t h e r acceptable brands, still available in E u r o p e but
seldom seen here, include B r i a n d ( b r e e ' - a w N ) , C a l v e t
( k a l - v a y ' ) , and Pellison (pel-e-sawN').
A r m a g n a c (pronounced ar'-men-yahk) is another
F r e n c h b r a n d y which, at least, is a close second to
cognac in quality and (in F r a n c e ) in popularity. I n

53
fact, there are m a n y w h o prefer a r m a g n a c . T h i s
b r a n d y comes from a n a r e a still farther south than
the C h a r e n t e w h e r e cognac is m a d e . T h e r e a r e slight
differences in the two processes of distillation, a n d the
casks i n w h i c h the liquor is aged are m a d e of a differ­
ent type of oak. A s the city of C o g n a c is the center of
the C o g n a c trade, so C o n d o m (pronounced c a w N ' -
dawN) is the h e a r t of the a r m a g n a c trade.
F r o m shortly after the repeal of prohibition until the
outbreak of the w a r , the firm of M a r q u i s de C a u s s a d e
of C o n d o m , F r a n c e , h a d done m u c h to popularize
a r m a g n a c in this country. U n f o r t u n a t e l y the w a r cut
off the supply from F r a n c e . A n attempt w a s m a d e to
m a n u f a c t u r e a similar b r a n d y in the U n i t e d States
but without success, a n d for several years n o w the
a r m a g n a c s h a v e been practically non-existent here. I
c a n testify to the outstanding excellence of the prod­
uct of M a r q u i s de C a u s s a d e . T w o or three other
brands, also from C o n d o m , also enjoyed a n excellent
reputation. B e c a u s e these brandies w e r e less highly
commercialized than the cognacs, it w a s n o r m a l l y pos­
sible to buy a n a r m a g n a c at a m u c h l o w e r price than
a cognac of equal age a n d quality. Also, misrepresen­
tation of a g e a n d other characteristics of quality, so
c o m m o n w i t h cognacs, w e r e almost completely absent
with the a r m a g n a c s . T h e a r m a g n a c s , generally speak­
ing, are s o m e w h a t better-bodied a n d drier t h a n the
cognacs. T w o a r m a g n a c s of outstanding excellence
w h i c h , unfortunately, are seldom, if ever, found in
this country are C h a t e a u L a b a r t h e a n d C h a t e a u
Laressingle.
A n o t h e r b r a n d y that is a great favorite w i t h a n u m ­
ber of m y good F r e n c h friends is m a d e from the last
press of the grapes a n d has a strong w o o d y taste. I t is
k n o w n as eau de vie de marc (pronounced oh-de-vee-
d e - m a r ) customarily shortened to m a r c ( m a r ) . I t is
extremely dry, is anything but mellow, a n d , to the
a v e r a g e A m e r i c a n taste, is rather unpalatable. T h e
same type of b r a n d y (but don't tell m y F r e n c h friends
I said it w a s the same) is produced in I t a l y under the

54
n a m e of g r a p p a . T h e brand of I t a l i a n g r a p p a most
c o m m o n l y found here before the w a r w a s the product
of M a r t i n i & Rossi. A similar b r a n d y is also produced
in small quantity in C a l i f o r n i a . If you like a cock­
tail that is v e r y dry a n d y o u do not m i n d a flavor that
is m o r e like the stem of the g r a p e t h a n the g r a p e
itself, y o u might try m a r c or g r a p p a . Otherwise, I do
not r e c o m m e n d them for cocktail m a k i n g .
A n o t h e r g r a p e b r a n d y that I definitely do not rec­
o m m e n d comes from Peru a n d is k n o w n as Pisco.
S u c h aging as it receives (and, to j u d g e by its flavor,
that is very little) is done in unglazed crocks or jars
a n d not in w o o d . I a m told that it is quite p o p u l a r in
P e r u — w h i c h is one reason I a m satisfied to r e m a i n in
the U n i t e d States.
Since it w a s not possible to m a n u f a c t u r e b e v e r a g e
b r a n d y in this country after the Eighteenth A m e n d -
m e n t w e n t into effect a n d until 1 9 3 3 , it is probably
too soon to expect a n y really good brandies here as
yet. F a i r l y substantial stocks are being put aside e a c h
y e a r for m a t u r i n g in addition to the v e r y large q u a n ­
tities (running into millions of gallons) that are used
annually in m a n u f a c t u r i n g cordials a n d in fortifying
sherries a n d similar h e a v y wines. While some A m e r ­
i c a n brandies come from other states, such as N e w
Y o r k , by f a r the greatest quantity is produced in C a l i ­
fornia. T h e s e brandies are highly satisfactory for cook­
ing, flavoring sauces, etc. N o n e that I h a v e yet found
c a n in a n y sense replace a cognac or a n a r m a g n a c as
a b e v e r a g e — e v e n in a cocktail such as a Side C a r . O f
course they are v e r y m u c h c h e a p e r t h a n F r e n c h bran­
dies. M a n y of t h e m are carefully m a d e a n d are pleas­
ant to the taste if y o u j u d g e them on their o w n merits
a n d not as a substitute for F r e n c h brandies. T h e i r
f l a v o r — e v e n m a n y that are called c o g n a c type—is
muscat. T h e y are, for the most part, distinctly heavier-
bodied than F r e n c h brandies a n d they lack the m e l l o w
smoothness a n d finesse of a c o g n a c or a r m a g n a c .

T w o other g r a p e brandies should be mentioned in

passing, those from S p a i n a n d those from. G r e e c e .

55
 B o t h are dark a n d extremely h e a v y . N e i t h e r c a n com­
pete in a n y w a y w i t h good F r e n c h brandies, but each,
in its o w n w a y , is quite good—especially the Spanish.
T h i s is a b r a n d y distilled from sherry w i n e a n d it re­
tains a distinct sherry flavor. I t is m u c h sweeter than
c o g n a c a n d fuller-bodied. I t has m a n y devotees and,
as a n after-dinner drink, is excellent. It c a n be used
in cocktails but not as a substitute for c o g n a c . I use
it extensively i n cooking, m y favorite b r a n d being the
twenty- or twenty-five-year-old F u n d a d o r m a d e by
Pedro D o m e c q . A n o t h e r excellent b r a n d is that m a d e
by Gonzales, Byass & C o . If you like to broil steaks o v e r
charcoal, try anointing t h e m gently w i t h F u n d a d o r
(the ten-year-old will d o for this) w h i l e cooking. T h i s
is truly food for the gods. T h e G r e e k brandy, on the
other h a n d ( M e t a x a being the b r a n d best k n o w n in
this c o u n t r y ) , has a r a t h e r sharp taste a n d has failed
to gain the popularity here that has been achieved by
the Spanish brandies. Nevertheless, it is a more satis­
factory cocktail substitute for cognac because it lacks
the sweet sherry flavor of Spanish brandy.

Other Fruit Brandies

T h e first in i m p o r t a n c e a m o n g the brandies m a d e
from fruit other than grapes is a p p l e b r a n d y — o r , as
it is c o m m o n l y called, applejack. T h i s liquor, if p r o p ­
erly m a d e a n d sufficiently a g e d , is a splendid drink
either straight or in a cocktail. Unfortunately, it is
next to impossible to find a n y well-aged apple b r a n d y
in the m a r k e t . I n the N o r m a n d y peninsula of F r a n c e
the same brandy, k n o w n as calvados (with the accent
o n the last s y l l a b l e ) , is m a d e w i t h meticulous care a n d
is a g e d in the w o o d for ten years or m o r e before being
sold. T h i s is a truly magnificent liquor, b u t it seems to
h a v e found but little m a r k e t here, presumably be­
cause of the mistaken notion that a p p l e j a c k is just
plain applejack, w h e r e v e r m a d e . A large percentage
of the a p p l e brandies sold here is not m o r e than two
or three years old. O n e is extremely fortunate if he c a n

56
find any that is as m u c h as five years old. T h a t is not
a sufficient a g e for a p p l e brandy, a n y more t h a n it is
for cognac, to p r o d u c e a smooth, m e l l o w drink. A n ­
other reason f o r the superiority of calvados is that it is
distilled in p o t stills a n d is distilled out at l o w proofs.
T h e A m e r i c a n variety is m a d e in patent stills a n d is
0
distilled out at a proof of from 1 0 ° to 2 0 h i g h e r than
the N o r m a n product.
I n m a k i n g this brandy, carefully selected apples a r e
used, p a r t sweet a n d p a r t sour, but all preferably of
the winter a n d not of the early fall varieties. E v e r y
a p p l e must be sound a n d ripe, but not overripe. Slight
imperfections in the fruit or a n y lack of care in press­
ing, fermenting, a n d storing the product will result in
a n off-flavor brandy. T h e fruit is crushed in a press
a n d the j u i c e is drained from the pulp through c a n v a s
cloths, strained, a n d stored in a cool cellar w h e r e it
slowly ferments. T h e fresh j u i c e is k n o w n as sweet
c i d e r ; after fermentation it is k n o w n as h a r d cider.
T h e h a r d cider is double-distilled a n d then stored in
oak casks to a g e . L i k e other liquors, it acquires its
color from a g i n g in the w o o d . S a d to relate, the best
a p p l e b r a n d y in this country is to be found in the cel­
lars of farmers w h o , in total defiance of Internal
R e v e n u e laws, distill " J e r s e y L i g h t n i n g " for their o w n
personal use. Since these a m i a b l e lawbreakers ( m a n y
of them rigid Puritans in all other respects) usually
put d o w n a quantity every y e a r , it is not unusual for
them to h a v e small stocks from ten to twenty years
old. T h i s , h o w e v e r , is strictly for personal use a n d the
entertainment of friends a n d is not c o m m e r c i a l l y
available.
A t the v e r y bottom of the palatability scale of bran­
dies (at least as measured b y m y p a l a t e ) stands a
p l u m b r a n d y k n o w n as slivovitz. T r a d i t i o n a l l y it is
supposed to be a favorite J e w i s h drink, but a m o n g m y
m a n y J e w i s h friends I h a v e yet to find one w h o likes
it. I t is sharp, harsh, a n d unpleasant to swallow a n d
leaves an aftertaste on a p a r w i t h quinine or bitter
aloes. H o w such a distasteful liquor c a n be distilled

57
from so pleasant a fruit as the p l u m is, to me, a c o m ­
plete mystery. T h i s b r a n d y is k n o w n in F r a n c e as
quetsch or mirabelle.
N e x t to a p p l e b r a n d y in importance comes the
cherry b r a n d y k n o w n as kirschwasser (pronounced
keersh'-vahs-ser) or kirsch. I still h a v e a small q u a n ­
tity of S c h w a r z w ä l d e r K i r s c h m a d e by the famous
Z w a c k firm of Budapest. To m e a t least, t h a t is the
kirsch p a r excellence of the entire w o r l d . E v e n before
the w a r , h o w e v e r , this w a s seldom found i n this coun­
try and, w h e n it could b e found, the price w a s almost
prohibitive. Fortunately, there are also reasonably
good kirschwassers m a d e both in Switzerland a n d in
F r a n c e a n d a n excellent kirsch m a d e in D e n m a r k un­
d e r the n a m e of K i r s e b a e r . Of the Swiss brands I rec­
o m m e n d R i g i a n d B r u n n e n ; of the F r e n c h brands,
M a r i e B r i z a r d . B o t h types are sweeter than the
S c h w a r z w a l d e r ( m a d e from cherries g r o w n in the
famous B l a c k Forest region of G e r m a n y ) , a n d neither
leaves the same lingering, delightful aftertaste. N e v e r ­
theless, either the Swiss or the F r e n c h kirsch is a n
excellent drink, either c a n be used w i t h good results in
cocktails, a n d either will m a k e a splendid flaming
dessert. K i r s c h is a true b r a n d y a n d is not to be con­
fused w i t h cherry cordials or liqueurs. Z u g (pro­
nounced tsook) a n d Basel, Switzerland, are noted for
their kirsch a n d m a n y excellent brands are m a d e
there. Unfortunately, few of them are here.
I cannot leave the subject of fruit brandies without
mentioning the excellent blackberry, pear, apricot
( B a r a c k P á l i n k a ) , a n d raspberry (Himbergeist) bran­
dies m a d e by the firm of Z w a c k & C o . T h e s e arc all
true brandies, not liqueurs or cordials (although
Z w a c k also makes excellent l i q u e u r s ) . T h e y are splen­
did after-dinner drinks, dry, fiery, a n d w i t h a n after­
taste not to be found in a n y of the syrupy cordials.
T h e y are pretty expensive for use in cocktails, but if
for some extra-special occasion y o u w a n t a cocktail
that is ultra-ultra, try one with a gin or white C u b a n

58
 r u m base, a lime-juice modifier, sugar to taste, a n d a
few dashes of one of these fruit brandies!

Miscellaneous Spirits
S O U T H E R N C O M F O R T W h i l e this 1 o o - p r o o f liquor is
m a d e from a supposedly secret formula, it is, at least
in taste, a peach-flavored bourbon. I t has been m a d e
for m a n y years but has only recently come into c o m ­
m o n use north of the M a s o n a n d D i x o n L i n e . I t is a
g r a n d drink straight or as a liqueur, a n d it c a n be sub­
stituted for bourbon in practically a n y whisky drink,
but because of the p e a c h content the resulting drink
will not be as dry as it w o u l d w i t h straight bourbon.
Proof of the popularity of this liquor is to be found in
the fact that it has been quite extensively imitated.
T w o other reasonably satisfactory liquors of the s a m e
general type but s o m e w h a t different flavor are S w a n e e
Pride and Cocktail H o u r Southland Nectar.

A Q U A V I T T h i s is the great drink of the S c a n d i n a v i a n

countries. I t is m a d e in the same m a n n e r as g i n is
3
m a d e — t h a t is to say, neutral g r a i n spirits are redis-
3
Perhaps "neutral potato spirits" would be more accurate.
Irish whisky is commonly but erroneously referred to as
"potato whisky." There is also prevalent an erroneous belief
that vodka is always made from potatoes. Actually, ethyl
alcohol can be made from any starch; and potatoes, like the
cereal grains, are rich in starches. Therefore, any liquor that
uses ethyl alcohol in the process of its manufacture—like
aquavit, gin, and the blended American whiskies—can use
an alcohol made from either grain or potatoes. As a practical
matter, distillers will use whichever is more abundant and is
cheaper. Scandinavia produces many potatoes but little grain,
hence aquavit is commonly made with potato alcohol. Russia
is a great grain-producing country, hence vodka is com­
monly made from grain rather than potatoes. Furthermore,
true vodka is an unaged, high-proof, straight whisky and,
while whisky can be made from a potato mash, it is grossly
inferior to grain whiskies in body, in flavor, and in char­
acter. During the recent post-war scarcity of cereal grains in
the United States a large proportion of the so-called "neutral
grain spirits" used in the manufacture of American whisky
blends was made from potatoes.

59
 tilled in the presence of flavoring materials. S e v e r a l
flavoring substances are used, but, whereas the prin­
cipal flavoring ingredient of gin is j u n i p e r , in the case
of a q u a v i t it is c a r a w a y . T h e liquors of the several
S c a n d i n a v i a n countries differ s o m e w h a t from one an­
other, the D a n i s h being the driest a n d the S w e d i s h
the sweetest. T h e natives of e a c h country, as m i g h t be
expected, usually prefer the type of their h o m e l a n d .
Outside of N o r w a y a n d S w e d e n , h o w e v e r , it is quite
generally recognized that A a l b o r g T a f f e l A k v a v i t
from D e n m a r k is the driest a n d the best. In all three
countries, D e n m a r k , S w e d e n , a n d N o r w a y , the m a n u ­
facture of a q u a v i t is n o w strictly controlled b y gov­
ernment monopoly. T h e r e is therefore little use of
discussing brands. Outside of A a l b o r g from D e n m a r k ,
w h a t is usually to be found here is I Aquavit, made
ma

by Aktiebolaget Vin & Spritcentralen, Gothenburg,

Sweden, and Loitens, made by A / S Vinmonopolet,
Oslo, Norway.
A q u a v i t should be served stinging cold, but it is
best w h e n ice is not allowed to come in contact w i t h
the liquor a n d thus dilute it. T h e better S c a n d i n a v i a n
restaurants w h i c h m a k e a specialty of a q u a v i t freeze
the bottle in a small cube of ice to chill the liquor.
T h e glasses, of course, should also be pre-chilled.
A q u a v i t m a y also be used as a cocktail base either
straight or blended w i t h gin, but in so using it one
must r e m e m b e r its strong c a r a w a y flavor a n d not at­
t e m p t to blend it w i t h incompatible flavors such as
peach, apricot, etc. I t is best, h o w e v e r , straight. L i k e
v o d k a , the normal-sized drink of about a n ounce to
a n ounce a n d a half should be d o w n e d at one swallow
—not sipped. L i k e v o d k a , also, it is a g r a n d apéritif.
T h e S c a n d i n a v i a n s like a beer chaser, but I do not
r e c o m m e n d this as a pre-prandial potion. T h e a c c o m ­
p a n y i n g S c a n d i n a v i a n toast is "Skaal" (pronounced
s k o a l ) , w h i c h is equivalent to the G e r m a n "Gesund-
heit."

V O D K A W h a t a q u a v i t is to S c a n d i n a v i a , v o d k a is to
R u s s i a a n d P o l a n d . H o w e v e r , w h e r e a q u a v i t is m a d e
60
 like gin, vodka is made like whisky. In fact, it actually
is a straight grain whisky, usually either wheat or rye,
with (as in the case of other whiskies) a small amount
of malt. It is distilled out at about 150 proof and cut
with water to 100 proof or a bit more. Neither aquavit
nor vodka is aged. Both are bottled at once or stored
in glass until bottled. Vodka should be taken straight
and very, very cold, like aquavit. It also makes an ex­
cellent cocktail base and, having no pronounced flavor
of its own, it will blend with anything. In this respect
it is superior to aquavit for use in cocktails. Unfor­
tunately, there is no imported vodka available in the
United States at the present time. Of the domestic
vodkas, the Smirnoff brand is by far the best, but you
will never know the taste of real vodka until you have
had one of the better brands made in Russia or Poland.
The domestic varieties are too sweet and insipid.
Smirnoff comes in two proofs; by all means get the 100
proof. Vodka is also made in green, yellow, and pink
colors. You can make a yellow variety for yourself by
grating a small quantity of lemon peel, drying it for
two or three days, and then adding it to the vodka—
about a 2-ounce measure of the dry grated peel to a
25-ounce bottle of vodka. Allow it to stand for a week
or ten days, shaking occasionally, and then decant off
the liquid. The green (really a yellowish-green)
variety is made by infusing the vodka with a small
quantity of zubrowka grass. It is sold under the name
of Zubrowka (pronounced zu-brof'-ka). It is really an
aromatized vodka. The pink or whisky-colored variety
is made in a similar manner except that red-colored
berries from the mountain ash are used instead of
zubrowka grass. It is called Jarzebiak (pronounced
yar-zhen'-bee-ak).

T E Q U I L A From the plant known as maguey, a species

of aloe, grown extensively in Mexico, come the two
Mexican drinks, pulque and tequila. The sap of the
maguey ferments very rapidly and this fermented
juice is called pulque. The pulque, when distilled, is
61
 k n o w n as tequila (pronounced t e - k e e ' - l a ) . M y first
introduction to this drink w a s from a bottle brought
u p from M e x i c o by a M e x i c a n friend during prohibi­
tion days. W h e n the cork w a s d r a w n there e m a n a t e d
from the bottle a n o d o r faintly resembling a c o m b i n a ­
tion of overripe eggs a n d l i m b u r g e r cheese. O u t of
deference to m y friend, I m a n a g e d to p e r f o r m the
ceremony of the M E X I C A N I T C H . T h i s consists of
shaking a dash of salt on the b a c k of the left h a n d .
T h e fingers of that h a n d g r a s p a w e d g e of l e m o n a n d
the right h a n d holds a pony of tequila. T h e salt is
licked from the b a c k of the h a n d , the l e m o n is
squeezed onto the tongue w i t h the salt, a n d then the
whole is w a s h e d d o w n w i t h the tequila.
Of course l e m o n (citric a c i d ) in combination w i t h
salt (sodium chloride) produces a dilute hydrochloric
acid, a n d it seems that this is essential to o v e r c o m e
the h y d r o g e n sulphide (ripe e g g ) odor of the tequila
prior to s w a l l o w i n g it. O n c e the liquor reaches the
stomach, h o w e v e r , I must a d m i t that it gives rise to
a w a r m , m e l l o w glow that g r a d u a l l y spreads from the
stomach to the fingers, toes, a n d e v e n to the hairs of
the head.
D u r i n g the period of the gin famine, c i r c a 1 9 4 4 , a
considerable a m o u n t of tequila w a s exported from
M e x i c o to the U n i t e d States for use as a cocktail base
in place of gin. W i t h m e it could n e v e r replace even
a n u n a g e d gin, although it might, perhaps, be called
c o m p a r a b l e to b a t h t u b gin. H o w e v e r , I did find one
brand—Cuervo (pronounced kwair'-voh)—from
w h i c h the unpleasant odor a b o v e mentioned seemed
almost completely absent. I n a p i n c h it might be used
in a cocktail. In general, h o w e v e r , the only liquor I
h a v e ever tasted that I r e g a r d as worse t h a n tequila is
slivovitz.

A B S I N T H E T h i s liquor, in its original form, is not only

illegal i n the U n i t e d S t a t e s ; it is a n d for m a n y years
has been illegal even in Switzerland, its birthplace,
a n d in F r a n c e . Its m a n u f a c t u r e a n d sale w e r e for-
62
 bidden because it was supposed to be habit-forming
and to result in insanity and sterility. The ingredient
blamed for all this evil was wormwood—the ab­
sinthium variety of Artemisia or sagebrush. There is,
however, at least a respectable difference of opinion
on this question. From my own personal experience I
can say that as a child I was constantly dosed—as
were the other children of that neighborhood and
time—with copious draughts of wormwood tea, along
with catnip tea, thoroughwort tea, and various other
medicinal "teas." Let one of the good old ladies of the
town hear of a child—or even a barnyard animal—
with worms, and every child in the community was
loaded, steeped, drenched, and force-fed with worm­
wood tea until the scare was over. I can find no evi­
dence that this resulted either in any increase in
insanity or in any decrease in the birth rate of that
community as against other communities not similarly
addicted to the use of this good old vermifuge.
The old pre-war absinthe, made by Pernod Fils of
France, was labeled "Extrait d'Absinthe." The modern
and legal substitute—without the wormwood—ex­
ported from France by Pernod Fils is labeled "Liqueur
d'Anis." A still better substitute is made by Pernod
S.A. in Tarragona, Spain, under the name of "Liqueur
Veritas." There is also one made in Louisiana called
"Herbsaint," pronounced, not herb-saint, but airb-saN,
which is close enough to the correct French pronunci­
ation of absinthe to sound almost identical. None of
these substitutes quite takes the place of genuine
absinthe with its somewhat bitter, aromatic flavor.
They are, however, reasonably acceptable, both in an
Absinthe Drip or Absinthe Frappé and as a flavoring
ingredient in cocktails.

O J E N (pronounced o-heN) T h i s S p a n i s h liquor, p r o p ­

erly considered, is not a n absinthe substitute but is a n
absinthe-flavored liquor. I t is practically a ready-
m i x e d cocktail, requiring only a d a s h of bitters a n d
icing to m a k e a delicious drink. I t c a n also be used to

63
 give a n absinthe flavor to other cocktails, but w h e n so
used it should be combined in a p p r o x i m a t e l y equal
parts w i t h the gin or other cocktail base, whereas w i t h
Pernod, V e r i t a s , or similar absinthe substitutes, only
a few dashes should be used.

ARRACK and OKELEHAO (pronounced oh"-keh-le-

hah'-oh) T h e s e t w o liquors are indigenous to H a ­
w a i i a n d are seldom seen in the continental U n i t e d
States. I n fact, one composer, j o k i n g about the lack
of familiarity w i t h this potent liquor w h o s e n a m e
sounds like that of a musical instrument, has written
a song a r o u n d the key p h r a s e : " W h i l e p l a y i n g on
m y little o k e l e h a o . " B o t h liquors a r e m a d e by dis­
tilling the fermented m a s h of rice a n d molasses. I n the
case of okelehao p r o p e r there is a d d e d to the m a s h a
quantity of juice extracted from the root of the taro
plant, a n d the distillate is aged in c h a r r e d oak casks,
like A m e r i c a n whiskies. It resembles A m e r i c a n whisky
i n color a n d the taro j u i c e gives it a smoky flavor
faintly resembling the flavor of Scotch.
T h e white okelehao or arrack uses coconut juice in
place of the taro root j u i c e a n d the distillate is aged
in u n c h a r r e d barrels. I t lacks the smoky taste of the
okelehao proper a n d has but v e r y little color. B o t h
liquors a r e bottled at 90 proof or less. A r r a c k is said to
be of C h i n e s e origin, p r e s u m a b l y because of the use of
rice in m a k i n g the mash. I t should b e noted that this
is a n entirely different drink from B a t a v i a arak or
a r a k r u m (p. 44), used principally in the m a n u f a c t u r e
of A r r a c k Punsch or S w e d i s h P u n c h ( p . 1 7 9 ) .

M E A D or M E T H E G L I N (pronounced me-theg'-lin)
T h i s good old liquor of G r e a t - g r a n d p a p p y ' s d a y is not
only never seen today but is seldom even heard of. I t
was m a d e (usually h o m e m a d e ) of a n artificially fer­
m e n t e d m a s h of malt, w a t e r , a n d honey. I t w a s sweet
a n d fairly potent but rather characterless w h e n un­
flavored. F o r that reason it w a s frequently combined
w i t h one or m o r e spices a c c o r d i n g to taste.
64
Apéritif Wines
N e x t to the citrus-fruit juices, aromatized wines con­
stitute the principal modifying, blending, o r smooth­
i n g a g e n t used with liquor bases in m a k i n g cocktails.
A l l of these aperitif wines are also excellent as straight
appetizers. S i n c e they a v e r a g e only 1 8 o r 1 9 p e r cent
alcoholic strength, they a r e m u c h m i l d e r t h a n cock­
tails in w h i c h the liquor base runs from 4 3 to 5 0 p e r
cent alcohol. T h r o u g h o u t E u r o p e they are used either
straight o r w i t h a d a s h of bitters o r a twist of lemon.
T o d a y y o u will see v e r m o u t h concerns advertising
t h a t the w i n e should be served " w e l l iced, w i t h a twist
of l e m o n . " T h i s , h o w e v e r , raises a highly controversial
question. I f F r e n c h v e r m o u t h is to be taken straight it
undoubtedly should be well chilled to bring out the
t a n g of the aromatics. In F r a n c e , the h o m e of F r e n c h
v e r m o u t h , h o w e v e r , only the sweet o r I t a l i a n v e r ­
m o u t h is used as a n apéritif. F r e n c h v e r m o u t h is m a d e
for export trade, principally to the U n i t e d States, for
use i n m a k i n g M a r t i n i s a n d other cocktails. A n d , a l ­
most w i t h o u t exception, y o u r native F r e n c h m a n , y o u r
true l o v e r of v e r m o u t h a n d similar aperitif wines,
takes his aperitif just as it comes from the bottle—at
room temperature. T h e same is true i n other E u r o ­
p e a n countries w h e r e apéritif wines a r e used rather
t h a n cocktails.
O n the other h a n d , y o u r A m e r i c a n insists on w e l l -
iced drinks, particularly his p r e - p r a n d i a l aperitif, a n d
it is largely i n a n effort to popularize these aperitif
wines w i t h the A m e r i c a n public that the p r a c t i c e of
icing them h a s sprung up. A s a result of this, m a n y
so-called " A m e r i c a n b a r s " i n E u r o p e today, w h e n
serving v e r m o u t h , q u i n q u i n a (pronounced keN-kee'-
n a h ) , or a n y other aperitif w i n e to a n A m e r i c a n cus­
tomer, a d d a n ice cube to the glass of w i n e .
Y o u r i n d i v i d u a l taste must be the guide to y o u r
a n s w e r to this controversial question. U n d o u b t e d l y
too m u c h chilling destroys the bouquet a n d a r o m a of

65
 wine, particularly a red wine. The "well-iced" school
answers this argument by saying that chilling brings
out the tang of the aromatics and an aperitif wine is
taken for the flavor of the aromatics rather than of
the wine itself. Also, they say that only the thoroughly
chilled pre-prandial drink will properly stimulate the
taste buds and wake up the appetite. They compare
the warm vermouth of the Italian and the French­
man with the Englishman's horror of all horrible
drinks—warm beer! My suggestion is that you try
your vermouth and other aperitif wines, first, at room
temperature; second, chilled by icing the bottle or
leaving it for an hour or more in the refrigerator; and,
finally, chilled by adding an ice cube to the glass or,
still better, by stirring gently with ice in the shaker.
Whatever you do, however, never shake the wine or
any cocktail containing wine with ice. Shaking will
result in a cloudy, muddy, disgusting-looking drink.
The most commonly used of the aperitif wines are
the vermouths, of which there are two types, the
Italian or sweet and the French or dry. The Italian
vermouth "marries" perfectly with whisky, the French
vermouth with gin. True, there are cocktail recipes
that use these combinations in reverse, but there is al­
ways likely to be something wrong, something not
quite satisfactory, about a blend either of dry ver­
mouth and whisky or of sweet vermouth and gin.
The best Italian vermouths are made in Torino,
Italy. By far the best brand is Cinzano (pronounced
chin-zah'-no). This famous old vermouth is made by
Francesco Cinzano & Cia., which was organized in
1835. Despite the dark color of the vermouth, the
wines used are all white wines, some dry and some
sweet. These wines, none of which is less than one
year old, are infused with some thirty different herbs,
each of which has been previously distilled or macer­
ated with alcohol. The mixture is then aged, decanted,
filtered, clarified, pasteurized, and refrigerated. The
clarification process alone consumes from three to five
months. The combined process of pasteurization and
66
 0
refrigeration ( w h i c h is done at about 9 below zero)
is most interesting in results. T h i s treatment w a s
originally undertaken for the purpose of destroying
the bacteria of fermentation and insuring good keep-
ing qualities in the tropics as well as in the arctic. N o t
only w a s this resuit accomplished, but it w a s found
that the treatment resulted in m a t u r i n g the w i n e to a
degree a p p r o x i m a t e l y equivalent to a g i n g it some four
or five years in the w o o d .
F r e n c h v e r m o u t h is m a d e primarily from the light
a n d r a t h e r flavorless wines pressed from grapes g r o w n
in the H é r a u l t section of F r a n c e , w h i c h , h o w e v e r , are
m i x e d w i t h some A l g e r i a n grapes to reduce the e x ­
treme dryness of the w i n e . T h e w i n e is fortified w i t h
a b r a n d y containing natural g r a p e s u g a r a n d alcohol
and, as in the case of I t a l i a n vermouth, infused w i t h
some thirty or m o r e aromatizing herbs. I n g e n e r a l i t
m a y be said that the processes of m a n u f a c t u r i n g
F r e n c h a n d I t a l i a n vermouths are quite similar, the
differences in the character of the two products b e i n g
due to differences in the kinds of grapes a n d , to a
lesser extent, the herbs used. T h e wines used in m a k ­
ing F r e n c h vermouths require longer a g i n g than those
used in m a k i n g I t a l i a n vermouths. V e r y roughly, it
m a y be said that it takes at least t w o years to m a k e a
good I t a l i a n v e r m o u t h a n d from three t o four years
to m a k e a good F r e n c h vermouth. T h e one outstand­
ing F r e n c h v e r m o u t h is N o i l l y P r a t (pronounced
n w a h ' - e e prah, a n d please don't call it "noy-lee
p r a t t " ) from M a r s e i l l e . I do not think that their pres­
ent product quite measures u p to their p r e - w a r stand­
a r d , but perhaps time will remedy that. A n o t h e r v e r y
good F r e n c h v e r m o u t h is C a z a p r a , m a d e by Cazalis
P r a t & C i e . I n fact, m a n y prefer it to the present-day
Noilly Prat.

I n the first y e a r after prohibition for w h i c h figures

w e r e a v a i l a b l e ( 1 9 3 5 ) there w e r e 4,081,440 bottles of
vermouths imported a n d 1 1 3 , 2 8 0 m a n u f a c t u r e d in the
U n i t e d States. B y 1940 these figures h a d risen to
6,029,760 bottles imported a n d 1,689,000 m a n u f a c -

67
tured here. By 1943 imports had entirely ceased (ex-
cept comparatively small quantifies from South
America), but domestic manufacture had risen to
9,473,280 bottles. Does this mean that henceforth we
shall cease importing our vermouths and rely entirely
on domestic manufacture? God forbid! The famous
old Cinzano organization, among others, moved to
South America early in the war period and opened
plants in several countries, notably Argentina and
Chile. The same man who had operated their plant
in Torino, Italy, came to South America and took
over. The same secret formulas and processes were
used. The same meticulous care was exercised in every
minute detail of the manufacturing process. The same
herbs were obtained from the same sources. The same
wines from the same grapes, of course, could not be
had, and to this I attribute primarily the difference
in the products. Nevertheless, excellent grapes are
grown and excellent wines are made in South Amer­
ica, particularly in Chile. Despite all the effort and all
the care, however, the South American vermouth of
Cinzano is no more like the old Cinzano from Torino,
Italy, than a brisket of beef is like a porterhouse steak.
Now a good beef stew is a delicious and succulent
food, but it cannot be compared with a tender, juicy
steak broiled over charcoal. So it goes with vermouths.
There is just one super-excellent Italian vermouth—
Cinzano from Torino; there is just one super-excellent
French vermouth—Noilly Prat from Marseille. The
others are the hip steaks, rump steaks, and top sirloins
of the vermouth steer—good, perhaps, but definitely
not filet mignon.
O f course w h e n imports from F r a n c e a n d I t a l y w e r e
cut off by the w a r , the domestic organizations did not
h a v e t w o to four years in w h i c h to p r e p a r e their p r o d ­
uct. T h i s , alone, is sufficient to a c c o u n t for the p o o r
quality of m a n y of the domestic vermouths that c a m e
o n the m a r k e t overnight. T h e y w e r e , in effect, bathtub
vermouths, like the bathtub gin of prohibition days.
M o s t of the numerous brands that so quickly a p p e a r e d

68
disappeared with equal speed. A few survived and
deserve credit for making a reasonably acceptable
product under almost impossible conditions. Most of
the American vermouths now on the market are not
only pure and wholesome but are also quite palatable.
Even in Europe, however, it is practically impossible
to get good vermouths today. The market is flooded
with brands unknown before the war—fly-by-night
concerns seeking to reap a harvest from the temporary
shortage of the better brands. The better houses are
holding their products for proper aging and, because
of the desire to build up foreign credits, what little is
available is exported—mostly to the United States.
Several other apéritif wines should also be men-
tioned, principally Dubonnet (dew-boh-nay'), Byrrh
4
(beer ), and St. Raphael (san raff"-ay-ell'). The first
two had become quite popular before the war and
the third had just been introduced in small quantities
in this country and had not had a chance to be used
at all extensively when its importation was shut off
by the war. The house of Dubonnet, like some of
the vermouth manufacturers, migrated to the West-
ern Hemisphere and kept up its manufacture and
sale throughout the war. All three of these apéritif
wines are generally similar to vermouth, but each has
its own individual characteristics. They can be taken
as a straight apéritif or substituted for Vermouth in
cocktails. In fact, some interesting variations in stand-
ard cocktails can be made just by this simple change
in the modifying agent. For example, try one Man-
hattan made with Cinzano vermouth, another with
Dubonnet, and a third with Byrrh. You will find them
somewhat similar, yet each will be different from the
others just as a Daiquiri made with lemon differs
from one made with lime.
Two other apéritif wines are also quite common in
4
" B y r r h " is pronounced exactly like our w o r d " b e e r . " T h i s
is somewhat confusing with us. T h e r e is no confusion in
F r a n c e , where B y r r h is m a d e , because there the w o r d for
beer is bière, pronounced bee-ayr'.

69
 E u r o p e , Apéritif Rossi, m a d e by M a r t i n i & R o s s i of
T o r i n o , Italy, a n d L e M a n d a r i n , a m a n d a r i n e -
(tangerine) flavored apéritif m a d e b y E . C u s e n i e r
Fils A i n é & C i e . of F r a n c e . Also there a r e innumerable
"quinquinas," a generic term applied to practically
all aromatic wines containing quinine.

Fortified Wines
B y far the most i m p o r t a n t of the fortified wines (i.e.,
a wine whose alcoholic strength has been increased
by the addition of g r a p e b r a n d y or some similar spirit)
is sherry. T r u e sherry comes from J e r e z (pronounced
h a y - r e t h ' ) , a city in the southern p a r t of S p a i n . T h e
quality of the w i n e is the resuit partly of the chalky
soil a n d favorable climate of that small section of
A n d a l u s i a w h e r e the grapes are g r o w n a n d partly of
the special methods of a g i n g a n d blending the various
wines that go into the finished product. I t takes m a n y ,
m a n y years to p r o d u c e a high-grade sherry. T h e
" s o l e r a " or mother w i n e w h i c h is the heart of the
blend m a y h a v e been started as m u c h as eighty or a
h u n d r e d years a g o , a n d each solera is tended w i t h
meticulous c a r e to m a k e certain that, as it is replen-
ished from time to time, there are a d d e d to it only
wines of the s a m e type a n d quality. O t h e r countries,
including the U n i t e d States, m a y p r o d u c e wines of a
taste similar to sherry, but only in this one small sec­
tion of S p a i n a r e the true sherries to be found.
N o r c a n the p r o d u c e r tell until the w i n e has fer­
mented a n d has clarified h o w m u c h of w h a t type of
sherry a g i v e n press of grapes will produce. F r o m the
selfsame grapes, pressed a n d barreled at the same
time, the w i n e in some of the casks will be pale, in
others d a r k ; in some the flavor will be delicate, in
others m o r e or less h a r s h ; some will m a k e sherries of
the finest delicacy a n d character, some will be fit only
for distilling into b r a n d y . Also, after the n e w w i n e has
been barreled a n d is left to " f l o w e r " ( a secondary
fermentation p e c u l i a r to s h e r r y ) , still further unpre-

70
dictable changes take place. S o m e of the wines will
be light a n d dry, some will be h e a v y a n d rich, some
will be in between, a n d some m a y h a v e turned sour
a n d be fit only for use in vinegar.
T h e casks of e a c h of the various types of w i n e are
n o w p l a c e d in storage w i t h the soleras of the same
type. T h e solera is a l w a y s the oldest w i n e of that par-
ticular type. A s w i n e is d r a w n from the solera for
bottling, the space thus emptied is filled w i t h w i n e
from the n e x t oldest casks, these are refilled from the
next, a n d so on d o w n to the youngest. T h u s there is no
such thing commercially as a sherry of any given
year's v i n t a g e . All sherries are continuous blends. If
the label bears a statement such as " S o l e r a 1 8 4 6 , "
that m e a n s only that the solera or m o t h e r w i n e w a s
started a h u n d r e d years a g o a n d not that the contents
of the bottle are a h u n d r e d years old.
I n addition to the straight w i n e soleras, the pro-
d u c e r also maintains soleras of color w i n e w h i c h are
obtained by reducing unfermented wines to some 20
to 30 per cent of their original v o l u m e a n d thus secur-
ing a dark, h e a v y , sweet syrup w h i c h is then m i x e d
w i t h r e g u l a r sherry in v a r y i n g proportions. T h e final
sherry blend as it is bottled will consist of wines of
v a r i o u s ages d r a w n from the appropriate solera to-
gether w i t h the necessary a m o u n t of color w i n e to
g i v e the desired color a n d sweetness a n d (if needed)
sufficient g r a p e b r a n d y to fortify the w i n e to the de­
sired alcoholic strength.
I n general, the sherries exported to the United
States are of four types:
1. F i n o ( f e e ' - n o ) . P a l e a n d v e r y dry.
2. A m o n t i l l a d o (a-mon"-te-yah'-doh). Also
pale a n d dry but not so extremely dry as fino.
3. Oloroso. G o l d e n color a n d m e d i u m sweet.
4. C r e a m . D a r k - c o l o r e d , sweet, a n d v e r y rich.

M a n z a n i l l a (mahn-zah-neel'-yah) is the same general

type as the fino but is extremely light-bodied and
e v e n drier t h a n the fino. V i n o de pasto (vee'-no de

71
pah'-stoh) falls between the fino a n d the amontillado.
It is s o m e w h a t lacking in character a n d does not pos-
sess the nutlike flavor of the amontillado. A m o r o s o is
similar to the oloroso but drier a n d s o m e w h a t lighter
i n color. Unless y o u are sure of the reliability of the
producer, h o w e v e r , do not rely too m u c h on the label
as a n indication of the type of sherry. M a n y a bottle
labeled amontillado is merely a n inferior p a l e dry
sherry, a n d m a n y a bottle labeled oloroso lacks the
full-bodied richness of the true golden oloroso.
T h e pale dry sherries—manzanilla, fino, a n d v i n o
de pasto—are useful principally as a substitute for
v e r m o u t h in cocktails a n d as cooking sherries. T h e
best sherry for use straight as a n apéritif is the a m o n ­
tillado. D r y sack is also excellent. T h e a m o n t i l l a d o is
dry enough to a c t as a stimulant to the appetite a n d
has a character a n d finesse that are almost wholly
lacking in the other p a l e dry types. T h e oloroso a n d
other sweet sherries are dessert wines. T h e y are too
sweet a n d h e a v y for use, either straight or in cock­
tails, as an apéritif. T h e y are excellent for use in
sauces a n d m a k e a delightful midafternoon drink.
T h e outstanding sherry brands are those of Duff
G o r d o n , Gonzales Byass, P e d r o D o m e c q , S a n d e m a n ,
a n d Williams & H u m b e r t , all of J e r e z . J o h n W .
B u r d o n , of Port St. M a r y , S p a i n , also makes a v e r y
excellent sherry. All of these firms produce excellent
sherries, both apéritif a n d dessert. A s a dessert w i n e ,
h o w e v e r , Duff G o r d o n ' s Bristol C r e a m is the king of
them all. A m o n g the various domestic sherries I h a v e
found M e r i t o the most acceptable.
A n o t h e r fine old w i n e , extremely p o p u l a r in colonial
days but almost n e v e r seen today, is M a d e i r a . While
the m a n u f a c t u r i n g processes differ w i d e l y from those
used in p r o d u c i n g sherry, nevertheless, like sherry,
M a d e i r a has a range v a r y i n g all the w a y from a light,
m e d i u m - d r y , apéritif w i n e to a heavy-bodied dessert
w i n e that rivals even a port. L i k e port a n d the sweeter
sherries, it is a magnificent midafternoon drink a n d it

72
is unsurpassed as a cooking wine. Its tonic qualities,
like those of port, are exceptionally good and it has a
sharp tang not to be found even in the finest sherries.
It is to be hoped that, with the resumption of inter­
national shipping and exchange of goods, this fine old
wine will again come into general use. The best of
these wines come from Funchal in the island of Ma­
deira. One of the lightest (both in body and in color)
of the Madeiras is Rain Water made by Welsh Bros.
The driest and most acceptable as an apéritif is Gloria
Mundi made by Leacock & Co. Blandy also produces
an excellent Madeira, as does Sandeman, whose house
is famous for its ports and, to a somewhat lesser ex-
tent, for its sherries.
Port wine should probably not be mentioned at all
in connection with apéritif drinks because all ports—
even the tawny variety—are very sweet and therefore
unfit for use as an apéritif. The one possible exception
is a white port which is used to some extent as an
apéritif in Europe but is seldom if ever seen in the
United States. I mention port here because it is ex­
tremely useful in making some mixed drinks other
than cocktails. It also is useful in the kitchen and it
is a splendid midafternoon drink. At the table it is a
wine to be taken after, not with, a sweet dessert or as
an accompaniment to cheese. Like a sherry, it should
be sipped slowly in order to enjoy to the utmost its
rich bouquet and undertone. It is also extensively
used for medicinal purposes.
Port wine derives its name from the city of Oporto,
Spain, where it is made. It is made not from one but a
number of different types of grapes, all of which, how­
ever, are grown along the Duoro River valley. Fer­
mentation begins at once after the grapes are pressed,
but, unlike sherry, which goes through two processes
of fermentation, port is allowed to progress only half
to two thirds through the fermentation process when
the fermentation is stopped by the addition of Portu-
guese brandy. It is the unfermented sugar still remain-
ing in the wine that gives it its sweetness.
73
 Port w i n e , perhaps, illustrates better than a n y other
the difference between aging processes as applied to
wines a n d spirits. It has already been pointed out that
spirituous liquors, such as b r a n d y a n d whisky, age
only in the w o o d . O n c e they are bottled, they r e m a i n
unchanged. T h e y will be n o smoother nor m o r e m a ­
ture a h u n d r e d years after bottling than the d a y they
w e r e put in the bottle. W i n e , on the other h a n d , b e ­
cause of the g r a p e sugar w h i c h still remains unfer-
mented a n d undistilled, will continue to age in the
bottle for m a n y , m a n y years. T h i s is particularly true
of port, the fermentation of w h i c h w a s arrested w h e n
it w a s little, if any, m o r e t h a n half complete. E x ­
perts c l a i m that a n y of the heavy-bodied ports (that
is, the v i n t a g e or crusted varieties) must rest in the
glass for at least eight to ten years before they are
ready to use, a n d the truly fine ports are a g e d from
twenty-five to forty years after bottling.
T h e r e are t w o types of the better ports : vintage a n d
crusted. V i n t a g e port, of course, is the finest of the
ports. H o w e v e r , only little of it is seen in A m e r i c a
because it does not keep well in transit. C r u s t e d port,
like the v i n t a g e variety, forms a solid crust on the
sides of the bottle requiring the decanting of the w i n e
before use. It is really the same type of w i n e as v i n t a g e
port but of a slightly inferior character. T a w n y a n d
ruby ports, the types most c o m m o n l y found in this
country, are a g e d in the w o o d . T h e i r crusting is done
while in the w o o d . T h e t a w n y port is "fired" from
time to time to r e m o v e the crusty sediment, a n d e a c h
firing leaves it paler in color—hence the n a m e
" t a w n y . " R u b y port is simply a blend of y o u n g port
with the older a n d lighter-colored tawny. A real
t a w n y is composed of good w i n e , well m a t u r e d in the
w o o d , a n d is really delightful a n d delicate in taste
although it cannot c o m p a r e in body a n d bouquet w i t h
a vintage or even a crusted port. A ruby port will
h a v e a m o r e fruity flavor but will lack the delicacy
a n d finesse of a tawny.
Perhaps one other fortified w i n e , marsala, should

74
 be mentioned in passing. It is a dark, sweet, h e a v y
wine, w i t h a sharp taste s o m e w h a t resembling m a ­
deira. It is of little use in the m a k i n g of m i x e d drinks
a n d of no use as a n apéritif. Its chief use is in cooking,
w h e r e it serves s o m e w h a t the same purpose as sherry
but w i t h a different a n d distinctive flavor.

Liqueurs
A later chapter ( 7 ) will be devoted to an e n u m e r a -
tion of the various liqueurs a n d cordials in c o m m o n
use. F o r the present, h o w e v e r , let it suffice to men­
tion a f e w basic principles respecting the use of li­
queurs in p r e p a r i n g cocktails a n d other m i x e d drinks
without going into details as to the distinguishing
characteristics of the numerous varieties a v a i l a b l e .
T o begin with, the distinction between a liqueur
o r cordial a n d a b r a n d y should be kept clearly in
m i n d . T h i s is especially important because, unfor­
tunately, the t w o terms are sometimes used somewhat
indiscriminately on labels. A true b r a n d y is distilled
from the fermented m a s h of the fruit a n d is dry, not
sweet. U n d e r F . A . A . regulations, its sugar content
must be less than 21/2 p e r cent. L i q u e u r s , on the other
h a n d , a r e m a d e by m a c e r a t i n g or infusing the fruits
or other flavoring materials in a spirituous liquor such
as brandy, filtering or, perhaps, redistilling the fla-
v o r e d liquor, a n d then a d d i n g sugar syrup to obtain
the required sweetness. I n the better-made liqueurs
this p r o d u c t (irrespective of the age of the spirits used
in p r e p a r i n g it) is still further aged in the w o o d . T h e
infused liqueurs m a y absorb sufficient color from the
fruits that a r e combined w i t h the brandies. T h e dis­
tilled liqueurs, h o w e v e r , are colorless as they come
from the still a n d acquire their color either by aging
in the w o o d or by the addition of artificial (prefer-
ably v e g e t a b l e ) coloring agents. L i q u e u r s a r e used
for two purposes: straight, as a n after-dinner cordial
in p l a c e of a cognac or other brandy, a n d as a flavor­
ing agent for cocktails and other m i x e d drinks.

75
 T h e use to w h i c h the liqueur is to be p u t should
determine the b r a n d y o u purchase. Of course some of
the better liqueurs, such as Benedictine, G r a n d M a r ­
nier ( p r o n o u n c e d g r a h N m a r n - y a y ' ) , D r a m b u i e , etc.,
a r e not only t r a d e - m a r k e d but are m a d e by secret
processes a n d formulas a n d h a v e n e v e r been success­
fully imitated. T h e G r a n d M a r n i e r people, d u r i n g the
w a r , tried m a k i n g their p r o d u c t in the U n i t e d States
but, o w i n g to their total inability to obtain a b r a n d y
even a p p r o x i m a t i n g the F i n e C h a m p a g n e w h i c h
forms the base of this exquisite cordial, g a v e u p the
attempt. M a n y other liqueurs, h o w e v e r , especially the
fruit liqueurs, are m a d e both here a n d a b r o a d . I h a v e
never yet found a n y l i q u e u r m a d e i n the Western
H e m i s p h e r e w h i c h I r e g a r d e d as in a n y w a y c o m ­
p a r a b l e to the better brands m a d e in E u r o p e , p a r t i c ­
ularly F r a n c e , H u n g a r y , a n d the Netherlands. T h e y
m a y h a v e the full flavor of the fruit or aromatic
herbs, they m a y be equally h i g h i n proof, they m a y
h a v e the p r o p e r s u g a r content. T h e y m a y e v e n taste
pretty m u c h the same on the w a y d o w n . S o m e h o w o r
other, though, they lack the finesse of the E u r o p e a n
products and, i n particular, the aftertaste a n d effect
are of cloying sweetness without the delightful bou­
quet a n d lingering delicacy that distinguish the high-
g r a d e cordial from the ordinary.

O n the other h a n d , if the liqueur is to be used by

merely a d d i n g a dash o r t w o to a cocktail as a fla­
v o r i n g agent, it w o u l d be the height of e x t r a v a g a n c e
a n d a n almost criminal w a s t e of heaven-sent nectar
to use the delicate, expensive imported brands. T h e
domestic liqueurs—or even a p l a i n fruit syrup from
y o u r corner-drugstore soda fountain—will g i v e y o u
the desired p e a c h , raspberry, apricot, p i n e a p p l e , o r
similar flavor. K e e p y o u r liqueurs m a d e by Z w a c k
in H u n g a r y , by F o c k i n k o r Bols in H o l l a n d , or by
G a r n i e r or M a r i e B r i z a r d in F r a n c e as a n after-dinner
treat for y o u r g o u r m e t friends a n d use the c h e a p e r
domestic varieties to spice y o u r cocktails. A real C o i n ­
treau ( p r o n o u n c e d k w e n ' - t r o h ) will give y o u a some-

76
what better Side Car than will a domestic Triple Sec;
a real Chartreuse (pronounced shahr-trerz') will give
you a better cocktail than a domestic liqueur verte,
granted. The difference, however, will be barely dis-
cernible and will be out of all proportion to the rela-
tive costs of the two liquors. Spend your good money
for the best in a cocktail base and for the best in your
vermouths, which are of prime importance. To use an
expensive, imported liqueur in a cocktail where only
a few dashes are wanted for a faint, elusive flavor
would be like adding beef tenderloin to your stew in
making a boeuf en daube.
Of the imported liqueurs I recommend Benedictine
Society, Fécamp, France, for Benedictine; Pères
Chartreux, Tarragona, Spain, for Chartreuse; Peter
Heering, Copenhagen, Denmark, for Cherry Heering;
Cointreau S.A.R.L., Angers, France, for Cointreau;
Rocher Frères, France, for curaçao (kew'-ra-soh) ;
H. Severy, Hasselt, Belgium, for kümmel (kim'-mel)
(Allasch Doppelt Kümmel) ; G. A. Jourde, Bordeaux,
France, for Cordial Médoc; Ditta Giuseppe Alberti,
Benevento, Italy, for Liqueur Strega (stray'-ga) ;
Drambuie Liqueur Co., Edinburgh, Scotland, for
Drambuie; Union of South Africa, Cape of Good
Hope, South Africa, for Van der Hum; Ets. Marnier
Lapostolle, France, for Grand Marnier; A. B. Vin &
Spritcentralen, Gothenburg, Sweden, for Carls-
hamm's Punsch (Swedish Punch) ; l'Abbaye de
Çenon, Bordeaux, France, for Vieille Cure (vee'-ya
kewr) ; and, for the miscellaneous fruit and other
cordials, any of the following houses: Zwack (tsvahk)
of Hungary, Fockink and Bols of Holland, and Bar-
dinet (bar-di-nay'), Cusenier (kee-zen-yay'), Gar-
nier (garn-yay'), Get Frères (zhay frayr), Marie
Brizard (bree-zahr'), and Rocher Frères (ro-shay'
frayr), all of France.
Of the domestic brands (strictly for use in cock-
tails) I have found several satisfactory, including the
firms of Bardinet, De Kuyper, and Nuyens, all of
whom now have American distilleries. The products
77
 of Jacquin (zha-keN) and Leroux (lee-roo'), both of
Philadelphia, are also good.

Bitters
Bitters are an essential ingredient of a large number
of cocktails. Strangely enough, while they are dis­
tinctly bitter when tasted straight, their effect on a
cocktail is almost the exact reverse. A raw, sharp,
acrid, bitter whisky can be smoothed out tremendously
by the addition of a sufficient quantity of bitters.
Some bitters have an alcoholic content nearly as high
as that of gin, rum, and many whisky blends, yet
they are not subject to the Internal Revenue tax on
alcoholic liquors because they have pronounced medic­
inal value and are used, even by strict prohibitionists,
as aids to the digestion. This freedom from tax ap­
plies to all the aromatic bitters. On the other hand,
the non-medicinal bitters that are used solely for
flavoring purposes in mixing drinks are subject to
the tax. This applies to the citric-flavored bitters
such as orange bitters and the less common lemon and
lime bitters. One of the anomalies of the New York
State liquor laws is that only alcoholic beverages—
all subject to Internal Revenue taxes—can be sold
in a liquor store. Consequently, medicinal bitters, the
same as ginger ale, soda, citrus fruits, and other "mix­
ings," cannot be bought there. Y o u can, however,
obtain them at your favorite grocery or drugstore.
Most aromatic bitters are made according to secret
formulas. They are more or less interchangeable, but,
though all are bitter, each will give to a drink a
slightly different tone than any of the others. In the
oldest recipe book that I possess (printed in 1 8 8 0 )
more than half of the recipes that call for bitters add
the admonition "Bokers genuine only." If this partic­
ular brand is still made it has at least been many years
since I have seen it on the market. The same is true
of Hostetters, another famous old medicinal bitters
which, however, was not used in mixing drinks.

78
 By far the most commonly used bitters today is
Angostura. This is a sine qua non both for a real Old-
Fashioned and for a real Manhattan. One trouble
with many Manhattans today, both homemade and
served at bars, is that the bitters are omitted. This
is largely a result of prohibition drinking, when it was
too much trouble to mix a real drink and, even though
a liberal dash of Angostura would have smoothed out,
to some extent, the vile whisky of those days, people
just didn't bother. Consequently, today many have
become used to drinking their cocktails without bitters
and really prefer them that way—or at least think
they do. For that reason bartenders hesitate to use
bitters in a drink such as a Manhattan unless spe­
cifically requested.
Next to Angostura, the best-known American
bitters is Abbot's, made by C. W. Abbot & Co., Balti­
more, Maryland. Another excellent and well-known
old bitters which has recently reappeared on the mar­
ket is Boonekamp, made by Bols of Holland. Pey-
chaud, from France, is an absolute "must" in the
Sazerac cocktail. At present, however, it is almost im­
possible to find. Two very fine bitters come from Italy,
Campari and Fernet. The latter is now manufactured
also by a branch of the old Italian firm of Fernet-
Branca in New York. Campari is more than a mere
bitters; it is really a highly aromatic liqueur. Zwack
of Budapest also makes an excellent bitters called
Unicum. It blends particularly well with brandies.
Two excellent brands of orange bitters are made
in England, one by Field, Son & Co. and the other by
Holloway's Distillery. Holloway's also makes an
orange bitters in this country, using the same formula
as in England. Another good domestic brand of
orange bitters is De Kuyper's. Recently there have
appeared on the market a number of orange bitters
which are laxative. Being of a medicinal nature, they,
like the aromatic bitters, escape the Internal Revenue
tax. Probably the amount of rhubarb and cascara
sagrada in these brands is not sufficient for the few
79
 dashes used in a cocktail to p r o d u c e a n y pronounced
laxative effect. Nevertheless, it is preferable to use
a n orange bitters that is m a d e strictly a n d solely for
b e v e r a g e purposes if it c a n be obtained.
N o discussion of bitters w o u l d be complete without
mentioning A m e r Picon, a bitter liquor m a d e b y G .
Picon, Levallois-Perret, F r a n c e . T h i s is not ordinarily
used as a true bitters to smooth out a n d blend a cock­
tail but is diluted w i t h w a t e r a n d sometimes sweet­
ened w i t h grenadine or some other fruit syrup or
liqueur a n d taken as a n apéritif. It also blends most
satisfactorily w i t h v e r m o u t h , particularly I t a l i a n v e r ­
m o u t h . F e r n e t - B r a n c a a n d C a m p a r i are also some­
times used in a s o m e w h a t similar m a n n e r , a n d I still
h a v e nostalgic memories of the L i t t l e H u n g a r y res­
t a u r a n t of pre-prohibition days w i t h its gypsy violinist
a n d the w i n e decanters w i t h poppet valves in the
bottom for refilling y o u r glasses. T h r e e wines w e r e
served w i t h every dinner, the final, dessert w i n e being
a H u n g a r i a n tokay. T h e apéritif (which, like the
wines, w a s included as part of the table d'hôte dinner)
w a s a l w a y s a U n i c u m cocktail in w h i c h the outstand­
i n g ingredient w a s Z w a c k ' s U n i c u m bitters.

Fruit Juices and Syrups

I entitled this somewhat lengthy chapter " L i m e s ,
L e m o n s , a n d L i q u o r s . " If you h a v e read all u p to this
point y o u should be reasonably familiar w i t h the basic
facts respecting liquors. N o w let us consider the limes
a n d lemons.
T h e first c o m m a n d m e n t w i t h respect to fruit juices
is to use nothing but fresh fruit, freshly squeezed. B y
fresh fruit I m e a n fruit that is ripe but not overripe,
a n d is firm a n d sound. T h e citrus fruits other than
lemons t u r n soft a n d show rotten spots as they age,
but lemons frequently shrivel u p a n d turn h a r d in­
stead of rotting. D o not use them unless the skin is
still a bright y e l l o w or greenish-yellow a n d is tender.
T h e inside of a b r o w n , h a r d lemon m a y look all right,
80
but you can be sure that a drink made with it will
not taste right. The chemical changes that have
withered the fruit and hardened the skin have also
seriously affected the flavor of the juice.
It should scarcely be necessary to caution you never,
never, NEVER to use unsweetened canned juices.
Among the exceptionally vile concoctions of the
prohibition era (and their names were legion) was
a combination of bathtub gin and canned orange or
grapefruit juice, with or without sweetening. At least
they did blend because one was about as unpalatable
as the other, both having a similar sharp, harsh, acrid,
tinny taste. Neither was wasted on the other; each
succeeded in bringing out all the obnoxious qualities
of the other. From that point of view it was an ideal
drink—ideally odious. But, for the love of all that is
holy, don't spoil good liquor by mixing it with canned
fruit juices.
I know that some people claim they like canned
orange and grapefruit juice; my own wife is one of
them. If you are another, then please drink it straight,
not mixed with liquor. And, by the same token, don't
use any of the synthetic jiffy-quick lemon juice sub­
stitutes. I know at least one of these that is wholesome
and stimulating. In fact, our Red Cross blood banks,
during the war, used it extensively and with excellent
results. That, however, does not make it a good substi­
tute for fresh lemon juice in a cocktail. Tomato juice
is also wholesome and, to me at least, delicious, but
I trust you would not use it with rum and sugar in
making a Daiquiri.
And when I say to use only freshly squeezed fruit
juices, I mean squeezed when you make the cocktail
—not the day before, not an hour before, not even a
half-hour before. All fruit juices commence to fer­
ment as soon as the skins are removed and the juice
is exposed to the air. I am not particularly concerned
about the loss of vitamin content, because for a period
of several hours that is negligible, especially if the
juice is kept refrigerated. The enzymes or digestive
81
ferments in the fruit, h o w e v e r , start w o r k i n g immedi­
ately u p o n exposure of the juice to the air. I f y o u
w a n t to see a visible demonstration of this, squeeze
a glass of lemon or lime juice a n d set it aside. L o o k at
it every ten minutes for a n hour a n d note the separa­
tion with a clear, w a t e r y liquid at the bottom a n d a
constantly thickening, curdled-looking mess floating
on top. N o , that is not just the p u l p separating from
the j u i c e ; that is fermentation going on. T h e chemical
changes that bring about this separation also affect
the taste a n d tend to give the j u i c e a n off-flavor,
brackish taste. S o buy ' e m fresh; squeeze ' e m fresh;
use ' e m fresh!

Occasionally y o u will find a recipe that calls for

pineapple j u i c e . H o w does one squeeze a p i n e a p p l e ?
Obviously it cannot be done in a D a z e y juice extrac­
tor or w i t h one of the old-fashioned conical glass ex­
tractors. I f y o u are the fortunate possessor of a W a r i n g
B l e n d o r o r similar high-speed m i x e r y o u r problem is
solved. T h i s m a c h i n e will extract the juice from any
kind of fruit o r vegetable. W h i l e I n e v e r tried it, it
w o u l d not surprise m e to see it get j u i c e from a stone!
J u s t beat u p y o u r fruit in the B l e n d o r a n d strain.
F a i l i n g one of these m a r v e l s of multiple uses, y o u r
next best bet is a small fruit press, a n d in that cate­
gory I include those j u i c e extractors that consist of
t w o flat plates mounted on a tripod a n d operated by
a long handle w h i c h exerts a tremendous pressure on
the fruit that is placed between the plates. O n c e
again, just squeeze, then strain. O h yes, in the case
of pineapple, you first peel it, r e m o v e the eyes a n d
core, a n d slice it.
Believe it or not, there are a f e w recipes that call
for unusual juices such as coconut j u i c e a n d the juice
of p a p a y a or other melons. I e v e n h a v e one recipe
(the R e d S n a p p e r ) that calls for t o m a t o j u i c e a n d
Worcestershire s a u c e ! If you must m a k e one of these
exotic misfits a n d you w a n t coconut j u i c e or melon
juice, a W a r i n g B l e n d o r is practically indispensable.

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 Now, thus far I have been talking about unsweet­
ened fruit juices, as distinguished from fruit syrups.
Many recipes call for fruit syrups, especially rasp­
berry syrup. Raspberry syrup was one of the stock
articles of the pre-prohibition bar. Even the old-type
Pousse-Cafe called for a layer of raspberry syrup.
You may also want (particularly after you once start
to "roll your own") other fruit syrups—apricot,
cherry, peach, and what not. For the most part, li­
queurs of these flavors will be better than non-alco­
holic syrups, but if you do want a non-alcoholic
syrup just take a small bottle down to the corner drug­
store and ask your favorite soda jerker to fill it with
whatever syrup you are seeking. You can also, in a
pinch, use the juice from canned fruits—especially
those put up in glass. I do not particularly recommend
this, but on occasion I have used them myself with
pretty fair results. The sweetened juices from canned
fruits somehow do not acquire that horrible brackish
flavor, suggestive of a combination of stale dishwater
and quinine, that is to be found in the canned un­
sweetened fruit juices. Remember, though, that the
juice from your canned fruits is neither as heavy nor
as sweet as either soda-fountain syrups or liqueurs.
Probably the most important of all syrups is sugar
syrup or simple syrup or gum syrup or, as ye olde-
tyme bartenders' manuals called it, gomme syrup. I
long since abandoned the agony of softening and
muddling loaf sugar in making Old-Fashioneds and
of wasting time trying to effect a complete dissolution
of either granulated or powdered sugar in a Daiquiri
or similar drink to the end that there might be no
undissolved sugar left in the bottom of the cocktail
glass. The solution is simple—dissolve the sugar in
advance; i.e., use gum syrup. Essentially, this is
merely granulated sugar and water heated to the boil­
ing point and then cooled. Some of the old-time
recipes call for the addition of a small quantity of
either glycerin or gum arabic for the purpose of ar­
resting the tendency of the sugar to crystallize out of
83
the solution, but in m y opinion this is neither neces­
sary nor desirable. T h e object in determining the ratio
of sugar a n d w a t e r is to m a k e the syrup as h e a v y as
possible without getting later crystallization. I h a v e
found that a m i x t u r e of about 3 cups of s u g a r to e a c h
c u p of w a t e r yields a v e r y satisfactory syrup. A d d the
sugar to cold w a t e r in a saucepan, heat it, a n d a l l o w
it to boil vigorously for a few minutes. C o o l a n d
then bottle. I use old pint liquor bottles w i t h screw
tops. T h i s solution will keep indefinitely a n d will save
you w e a r y hours of time in m a k i n g all m a n n e r of
drinks calling for the use of s u g a r — a n d , w h a t is m o r e
important, it will m a k e better drinks w i t h no sediment
in the bottom of the glass.
A t this point I suggest t h a t y o u t u r n to the chapter
on liqueurs a n d look u p grenadine a n d orgeat, two
non-alcoholic syrups that are most useful in cocktail
mixing. T h e s e a n d other fruit syrups—unlike simple
s y r u p — h a v e a tendency to ferment a n d m o l d after
exposure to a i r a n d must be carefully w a t c h e d . If
you live in a state w h e r e it is possible to purchase
g r a i n alcohol, I suggest that after opening a bottle
of one of these syrups y o u a d d about 6 to 8 per cent
alcohol for the purpose of preserving it. If, h o w e v e r ,
you live in some place like N e w Y o r k w h e r e y o u can
buy every kind of alcohol except alcohol, you might
ask y o u r doctor or druggist w h a t y o u can d o to pre­
vent this fermentation. B u t don't use benzoate of
soda.
O n e final caution regarding the use of sugar, sugar
syrups, a n d all non-alcoholic h e a v y syrups such as
grenadine, orgeat, honey, etc. A l l forms of sugar, dry
or in syrup, blend w i t h liquor a n d other liquids best
w h e n w a r m . C o n t a c t w i t h ice, even if it does not
crystallize out the sugar content of a syrup, will at
least h a r d e n it enough to p r e v e n t r e a d y m i x i n g with
the other ingredients. I t is better, therefore, to stir or
shake the ingredients so as to blend them thoroughly
before a d d i n g ice to the shaker. F u r t h e r m o r e , when
syrups, alcoholic or non-alcoholic, are a d d e d for color

84
 effect—such as grenadine, green crème de menthe,
Parfait A m o u r , etc.—a clearer, m o r e colorful cock-
tail will be p r o d u c e d if the ingredients are m i x e d
before icing. P o u r i n g the colored syrup o n the ice will
g i v e a m u d d y effect. I t should also be noted that
s u g a r does not dissolve well in alcohol. I f y o u use
d r y s u g a r for Daiquiris a n d similar cocktails, the
s u g a r should be thoroughly dissolved in the lemon or
lime j u i c e before a d d i n g the liquor.

Eggs and Cream

I t should not be necessary to point out that w h e n
eggs, c r e a m , or even milk a r e used in a m i x e d drink
they must be strictly fresh. I n using milk or c r e a m
w i t h citrus juices, r e m e m b e r that the citrus j u i c e is
full of citric acid a n d that a n y acid will curdle milk.
It is therefore best to blend the other ingredients in
the shaker first a n d a d d the milk or c r e a m last.
T h e e x a c t reverse is true of eggs. I n this case, the
alcohol will tend to " c o o k " the egg. I t is therefore
best to blend the egg thoroughly w i t h the lemon or
other citrus juice a n d s u g a r first a n d then a d d the
liquor, a small portion at a time, shaking well after
e a c h addition. A n o t h e r m e t h o d sometimes used is
to shake u p everything but the e g g first i n order to
thin out the liquor as m u c h as possible a n d then a d d
the egg last. T h i s works reasonably well w i t h egg
whites but is not so satisfactory w h e n yolks are used.
I f you a r e able to get dried egg p o w d e r y o u c a n a v o i d
all w o r r y about curdling. J u s t d u m p the p o w d e r in
w i t h the other ingredients a n d shake. W h o l e egg
p o w d e r is a v a i l a b l e at most good groceries, but p o w -
dered egg whites are extremely h a r d to find.

Ice
I t is strange, indeed, that most a m a t e u r bartenders
fail to recognize the fact that ice is one of the essen-
tial ingredients of a cocktail a n d that absolute purity

85
is just as important in the case of ice as of a n y other
ingredient. Y o u c a n feel reasonably well assured t h a t
the ice delivered to y o u by a n y metropolitan ice com­
p a n y is pure. B u t w h a t about the ice from y o u r o w n
kitchen refrigerator? I f y o u r city w a t e r tastes of
chlorine, y o u r ice will taste of chlorine a n d so will
y o u r cocktails.
F u r t h e r m o r e , ice drinks u p the odors of a refrigera­
tor as a sponge drinks u p w a t e r . I f y o u r cocktail has
a faint a r o m a of C a m e m b e r t cheese or of leftover
broccoli, interview the m a j o r - d o m o of y o u r kitchen
a n d ascertain w h e t h e r leftover foods a r e kept in
tightly covered dishes or are left open in the refrigera­
tor. Point out to her that keeping foods in closed
dishes is not only essential to the purity of the ice but
that it prevents the drying out of the foods a n d is,
therefore, good economy.
A t the same time ascertain h o w often the b o x is
defrosted. I h a v e seen refrigerators so c a k e d u p w i t h
ice that it w a s necessary to use a j i m m y to get a n ice
tray out. T h i s , again, is poor economy. A refrigerator
should n e v e r go more than a week without complete
defrosting. I n hot, d a m p s u m m e r w e a t h e r it should
be defrosted every four or five days. F r e q u e n t defrost­
ing results in better refrigeration, l o w e r operating
costs, a n d longer life of the refrigerating machinery.
I c e is a highly efficient insulating material. W h e n y o u r
refrigerating c o m p a r t m e n t is surrounded by a solid
mass of ice a quarter of a n inch thick or m o r e , that
c o m p a r t m e n t is completely insulated from the part
w h e r e the food is stored. T h e cold does not r e a c h the
food. Since the temperature of the food c o m p a r t m e n t
is thermostatically controlled, the refrigerating unit
works overtime in a violent effort to offset the negli­
gence of the operator. Electric or gas bills (according
to the type of b o x ) g o u p a n d the m a c h i n e r y w e a r s
out.
T h e ice that forms on the refrigerating unit is the
condensed moisture from the foods stored in the b o x .
T h i s moisture is laden with odors from the food
86
 w h e n c e it escaped. T h e quarter-inch coating on the
outside of the c o m p a r t m e n t that holds y o u r ice trays,
therefore, is not just ice—it is frozen parsnips, p o ­
tatoes, chicken, a n d w h a t h a v e y o u . A n d all these
delicate but inappropriate flavors will be c o m m u n i ­
cated to the ice in y o u r trays a n d thence to y o u r drinks.
If the aforesaid m a j o r - d o m o complains of the time
consumed in defrosting, show her h o w to d o it in ten
minutes. T u r n off the refrigerating unit. R e m o v e ,
empty, a n d scald out the ice trays. Fill them w i t h
rapidly boiling w a t e r a n d return t h e m to the ice
compartment, closing the door. T h e steam melts off
the a c c u m u l a t e d ice like m a g i c . I t m a y be neces­
sary to refill the trays once w i t h more hot w a t e r to
complete the j o b . M o p up. Refill the trays w i t h cold
w a t e r a n d set the thermostat at " C o l d e s t " until fresh
ice is m a d e . A jiffy j o b , and, even if performed twice
a week, it is a c h e a p price to p a y for the resulting
purity of ice a n d the economies effected.

Soda and Ginger Ale

Waters of a n y kind, carbonated or plain, sweetened o r
unsweetened, h a v e n o place in a cocktail. A n O l d -
F a s h i o n e d , for e x a m p l e , w i t h any w a t e r — e v e n a few
squirts—in it is no longer a cocktail but a short H i g h ­
ball. W i t h all the care you can possibly exercise, a n y
cocktail that stands five minutes or more in contact
w i t h ice will b e diluted to a n appreciable extent a n d
the use of still m o r e w a t e r in m i x i n g the cocktail is
anathema.
H o w e v e r , g i n g e r ale a n d the various c a r b o n a t e d
waters, usually called club sodas, are essential ingre­
dients of H i g h b a l l s a n d other long drinks. T h e t w o
essentials of a n y carbonated b e v e r a g e a r e h i g h car-
bonation a n d good retention. Unfortunately, this is
a combination difficult to achieve. Frequently, espe­
cially w i t h ginger ales, the b e v e r a g e that is not highly
carbonated retains its life longest, whereas the one
that boils out like a v o l c a n o in eruption w h e n the

87
cap is removed goes flat in a few minutes. It is also
generally true that the beverages in which the gas
rises in minute quantities retain their life longer than
those that give off their gas in larger bubbles.
Ginger ales should also be really dry and pale. The
old-time heavy, brown, syrupy ginger ale has no place
in drink mixing. The sugar content should be medium
and there should be a fairly sharp acid taste.
There are innumerable brands both of club soda
and of ginger ale on the market. Unfortunately, for
one reason or another, most of them fall below any
reasonably high standard for carbonated beverages.
One brand is off taste, another is off color, another
has insufficient carbonation, etc. Some houses make
either good soda but a poor ginger ale or vice versa.
Among the brands of both ginger ale and soda that
I can recommend are Canada Dry, Bohack, Grisdale,
and Hoffman.

88
 4
PERTINENT POINTERS

W e h a v e n o w learned the basic principles of cocktail

m i x i n g , w e h a v e acquired our cocktail shaker, glasses,
a n d other necessary implements, a n d w e h a v e learned
h o w to select o u r ingredients a n d , let us assume, h a v e
collected at least a few bottles of liquor a n d a supply
of limes, lemons, a n d so on. Before actually measur­
i n g out o u r first cocktail a n d shaking it u p , h o w e v e r ,
let us give heed to a f e w final hints a n d warnings.

Measuring
T h e r e are t w o ways of measuring y o u r ingredients:
w i t h a measuring glass a n d by the eye. T h e a v e r a g e
bartender of today treats his j i g g e r as if it w e r e a n
indispensable p a r t of his left h a n d — a sort of sixth
digit. T h e r e are t w o reasons for this: First, m a n y
bartenders lack the experience a n d " k n o w - h o w " to
measure w i t h reasonable a c c u r a c y by eye alone. S e c ­
ond, the proprietor fixes his prices on the basis of just
so m a n y drinks from each bottle. I f he pays five
dollars for a full q u a r t of bonded whisky a n d he
allows two ounces to a drink, he knows that he should
get sixteen drinks from the bottle a n d t h a t the liquor
in e a c h drink will cost him slightly o v e r thirty cents. If
the bartender pours three-ounce drinks, h o w e v e r ,

89
the cost to the house will a v e r a g e nearly fifty cents
per drink. A c c u r a c y is essential for profit.
I n the good old days before prohibition the b a r ­
tender set out the whisky bottle, the H i g h b a l l glass,
the ginger ale or soda, a n d a measuring glass a n d let
the customer p o u r his o w n drink for a H i g h b a l l . H e
noted w h e t h e r the customer poured one, two, or three
"fingers" of liquor a n d c h a r g e d accordingly. T h a t
same bartender w o u l d toss into the shaker the ingredi­
ents for a n y w h e r e from one to six cocktails, shake,
line u p the glasses, a n d p o u r the cocktails. E a c h glass
w o u l d be full to the b r i m w i t h not a single drop left
over. A l a s , it seems, " t h e m days is gone forever."
T h e h o m e entertainer is not m i x i n g a n d selling
drinks for profit a n d therefore need not use a medicine
dropper or pipette to portion out his liquor. H e is not
dispensing hundreds of bottles of liquor p e r day, a n d
a ha'penny's difference in the cost p e r drink need
not seriously w o r r y him. Nevertheless, he is likely to
gather the i d e a from m a n y of the m o d e r n recipe
books that laboratory a c c u r a c y in measurement is a
vital essential, a n d that unless he follows that partic­
u l a r author's proportions with meticulous a c c u r a c y
the drink will be utterly ruined. T h i s is largely the
bunk! If y o u will read a dozen recipe books you
will find few, if any, drinks as to w h i c h all the
authors agree on the proportions of the several in­
gredients. W h o is right? T h e answer is to learn the
proportions that best please y o u r o w n taste a n d that
of y o u r discriminating guests a n d then stick to these
proportions w i t h reasonable a c c u r a c y . A few grains of
sugar, a few drops of bitters, or a few spoonfuls of
liquor m o r e or less will m a k e n o noticeable difference.
N o w , at first, y o u m a y h a v e little idea just how m u c h
of this a n d that to put in the shaker to m a k e two
drinks, four drinks, or ten drinks. I t is easy to learn.
Start with the bitters, since it is well in practically
all cases to p o u r this ingredient first. R e m e m b e r that
6 dashes equal I teaspoonful. W i t h the shaker held
diagonally so that the liquid will collect i n one spot,

90
measure into it successively 1/2 teaspoonful, I tea-
spoonful, 2 teaspoonfuls, etc., of water and note how
much of the bottom is covered. Suppose your recipe
calls for 3 dashes to a drink. You will now be able to
visualize how much to put in for 2, 4, 8 drinks, etc.
Now for your total quantity of ingredients. It is
written in the book of the law of good fellows that
wherever two or three are gathered together each
will want a couple of drinks. Accordingly, you will
seldom mix less than four drinks. Take your cocktail
glass and fill it with water to within about 1/4" to 3/8"
of the top. Empty it into the shaker and repeat. Note
the height to which 2 glasses, 4 glasses, and so on, fill
the shaker. Until you feel that you can trust both
your eye and your memory you may, if you have a
glass shaker, make a series of narrow scratch marks
with a sharp file on one side of the shaker to indicate
the height to which it should be filled for any suc­
cessive number of drinks. After a little practice you
will find you do not need these guides.
But those guide lines are only for the total quantity
of all ingredients. If your Manhattan is to be made
3 to I and your Martini 5 to I, how do you gauge
the proportions? Well, brother, with the line before
your eye showing the total amount of liquid needed,
if you cannot pour with reasonable accuracy one
sixth or one fourth of that amount, then you better
buy a micrometer caliper with a vernier scale and
forget all I have said about using your eye.
In nearly all cases the liquors are poured into the
shaker first and the ice is added last. In the few cases
where that is not done, measure out in a separate
glass the liquors that are to be added last. Never
try to measure by eye after the ice has been put in.
Experiment from time to time with different pro­
portions in your drinks, but do this alone or with a
trusted friend who is somewhat of a connoisseur.
Try a Manhattan that is 2 to I, 3 to I, 4 to I. If the
3 to I seems too strong and the 2 to I too mild, try
21/2 to 1. But once you have decided on your propor-
91
 tions, stick to them. T w o things will result in enco­
m i u m s from y o u r guests. T h e first is that y o u r M a n ­
hattans, M a r t i n i s , Side C a r s , or w h a t - h a v e - y o u always
taste exactly the same—not good today a n d poor
tomorrow. T h e second is that every so often you bring
forth some n e w delight to stimulate their palates a n d
w a r m both their stomachs a n d their hearts.

To Stir or to Shake
H e r e , again, the instructions in most recipe books are
far from enlightening. T h e reader is told to stir or to
shake, as the recipe calls for, u n d e r penalty of spoil­
ing the drink. W h y he should do the one or the
other, h o w e v e r , is seldom e x p l a i n e d . A n d even pro­
fessional bartenders do not always know. I once h e a r d
a b a r t e n d e r — a n d a fairly good one at that—assure
a customer that he could not shake a M a r t i n i because
"shaking bruises the g i n " !
T h e real distinction between the t w o methods is
simple. S h a k i n g produces a colder cocktail quicker
t h a n stirring. T h e r e f o r e , since frigidity is highly de­
sirable in all cocktails, shaking is n o r m a l l y the prefer­
able method. H o w e v e r , w i t h some cocktails another
consideration enters into the picture, a n d that is " e y e
a p p e a l . " A substantial p a r t of the c h a r m of certain
cocktails such as the M a r t i n i a n d the M a n h a t t a n is
their clear, almost scintillating translucence. A stirred
cocktail will r e m a i n c l e a r ; a shaken cocktail will be
cloudy or even m u d d y in a p p e a r a n c e . T h i s result is
particularly noticeable w h e r e v e r m o u t h o r a n y other
w i n e is a n ingredient. T h e r e f o r e , y o u should never
shake a cocktail containing a n y w i n e unless y o u w a n t
a muddy-looking drink. T h i s cloudiness will clear
somewhat as the drink stands, but it will n e v e r h a v e
quite the limpid a p p e a l of the drink that is stirred.
S o m e people care m o r e for the stinging cold of the
shaken cocktail than they d o for its a p p e a r a n c e . S o
if you do not mind a muddy-looking drink, shake
to y o u r heart's content.

92
 Incidentally, there are very few cocktails that can
be made with the beautiful translucence of the Mar­
tini and the Manhattan. This is because more cock­
tails are made with citrus juices than with vermouths,
and the citrus juices themselves are not translucent.
It is, however, possible to make a fairly clear cock­
tail with lemon or lime juice if only a small quantity
is used and if it is strained through a very fine wire
mesh (such as a tea strainer) or through cloth.
And when you stir, stir; do not churn. It is possible
to stir so fast, and with an up-and-down as well as a
circular motion, that the stirring practically amounts
to shaking. On the other hand, when you shake, shake
like the very devil! Do not rock or swish or revolve or
merely agitate. Throw your biceps into high gear and
push the accelerator down to the floor board.
One word of caution should be given respecting
Highballs and other tall drinks using carbonated
beverages. These must be stirred with a long spoon
or stirring rod (an iced-tea spoon will do) to blend
the liquor with the ginger ale or soda. Stir quickly
and briefly. Too long stirring will cause the gas to
escape and result in a flat drink. And, whatever else
you do, be sure to use plenty of ice—two large cubes
in a short Highball (Sour-glass size) and four or
five in a large Highball or Collins glass. I believe it
was Charles H. Baker, Jr., in one of his excellent
articles who said, "A lukewarm drink means a luke­
warm guest." True, Cholly, my boy, absolutely true!

Crushed Ice or Cubes

As a usual thing ice cubes are used for stirred drinks
and cracked or crushed ice for those that are shaken.
Many cocktail books state that a drink that is stirred
will be stronger than one that is shaken, and that
one in which ice cubes are used will be stronger than
one in which crushed ice is used. As a practical matter
this is usually true; in theory it is absolutely .untrue.
The reason that it is usually true in practice is that,
93
regardless of the kind of ice used a n d regardless of
w h e t h e r the drink is stirred or shaken, the mixologist
devotes a p p r o x i m a t e l y the same length of time to
the chilling operation.
W h e n ice melts it absorbs heat from w h a t e v e r sub­
stance it chances to be in contact w i t h — i n this case
the cocktail liquor. T h e heat absorption by the i c e —
a n d the resultant melting of the ice a n d dilution of
the drink—are in direct proportion to the surface
a r e a of ice exposed to the liquor. T h e finer the
particles of ice, the greater the exposed a r e a a n d the
quicker the drink can be chilled to a n y given tempera­
ture. Y o u c a n chill y o u r cocktail quicker w i t h crushed
ice than w i t h cubes a n d y o u c a n chill it quicker by
shaking than by stirring. B u t chilling to the same tem­
perature will result in exactly the same a m o u n t of
dilution, w h e t h e r y o u shake or stir a n d w h e t h e r y o u
use crushed ice or cubes.
F o r absolutely perfect cocktails only one round
should be shaken at a time, because after the drink
is shaken a n d poured a n d w h i l e it is being consumed
the ice will continue to melt in the shaker a n d will
further dilute any liquor that is held back for a sec­
ond round. F u r t h e r m o r e , in shaking a second round,
a n y leftover ice should be discarded a n d only fresh
ice direct from the refrigerator used. T h i s is because
the leftover ice will be partly melted a n d "honey­
c o m b e d . " T h e r e m a y easily be ten or twelve degrees'
difference in the temperature of ice fresh from the
electric refrigerator a n d ice that has been used in
the shaker a n d is at or n e a r the melting point of 3 2 °
Fahrenheit. F o r the same reason, ice trays should
never be taken from the refrigerator a n d a l l o w e d to
stand a n d w a r m u p before using the ice. A l w a y s use
the ice the minute it is taken from the b o x .
A s a practical matter, h o w e v e r , it m a y not always
be convenient to shake a n d drink one round a n d then
shake a n d drink a second, particularly w i t h guests
w h o like (as d o I ) to p u t a w a y their first cocktail
with reasonable speed a n d then linger a bit longer

94
 over the second. S o m e writers c o n d e m n the " d i v i ­
d e n d " cocktail as one of the iniquitous survivals of
prohibition days. T h e y a r e correct in saying that the
h o l d - o v e r drink will be w e a k e r than the one that is
freshly shaken a n d immediately consumed a n d that
it will not h a v e quite the same sparkle a n d life. T h e
dilution, h o w e v e r , c a n be greatly reduced by using all
cubes instead of crushed ice or b y using cubes in
combination w i t h a small a m o u n t of crushed ice. I f
not more t h a n five to ten minutes elapse between
p o u r i n g the first a n d second drinks, the dilution from
further melting of large cubes will not be too great.
I n m a k i n g O l d - F a s h i o n e d s it is customary to use
cubes only—just w h y I do not k n o w . I find that the
drink can be chilled m u c h quicker a n d m o r e satisfac­
torily a n d that it is easier to drink if the cubes (or,
w i t h a n extra-large glass w h e r e several cubes a r e used,
one or two of them) are cracked. I do this by holding
the cube in m y h a n d a n d hitting it w i t h the butt end
of a h e a v y ice pick.

"And a Twist of Lemon"

M a n y cocktail recipes call for a twist of lemon or,
more specifically, of lemon peel. U s e only fresh, soft
lemons w i t h a clear, unblemished skin. W i t h a razor-
sharp p a r i n g knife slice off thin strips of the peel
about 3/8" to 1/2" w i d e , lengthwise the lemon. B e care­
ful t h a t the knife does not go deep enough to cut off
a n y of the white, pulp-like l a y e r u n d e r the y e l l o w skin.
A f t e r y o u r drink is poured, take one end of the strip
of peel between the t h u m b a n d forefinger of each
h a n d a n d , holding it about 1/2" a b o v e the glass, twist
it, at the s a m e time m o v i n g it w i t h a sort of rolling
motion o v e r the glass, beginning at the edge nearest
y o u a n d ending at the edge farthest from you. O r a n g e
peel c a n be used in place of lemon peel but w i t h
a quite different taste effect. L i m e peel, h o w e v e r , has
a sharp, acrid taste that most people find repugnant.
R e m e m b e r that the peel of citrus fruits contains a

95
 sharp, rather bitter oil. U s e d w i t h restraint, it points
u p a drink w i t h a delicious fragrance. T o o m u c h of
it, h o w e v e r , c a n ruin a drink. T h e r e f o r e , unless the
recipe specifically calls for it, or unless y o u k n o w
that y o u (or y o u r guest, as the case m a y be) really like
the h e a v y bitter flavor, d o not p u t the peel in the
drink. M e r e l y twist it over the top.

Chilling and Frosting the Glasses

T h e r e a r e t w o methods of pre-chilling cocktail glasses
before p o u r i n g y o u r drinks. W h e r e crushed ice is at
h a n d the simplest a n d most effective method is to fill
the glass w i t h the crushed ice, a l l o w it to stand while
the drink is being shaken, a n d then discard the ice.
A n o t h e r reasonably satisfactory m e t h o d is to place a n
ice cube in the glass, g r i p the stem at the base between
the t h u m b a n d fingers, a n d , w i t h a rotary motion of
the entire glass, spin the cube a r o u n d the inside.
" F r o s t i n g " a glass has nothing to do w i t h its tem­
perature but refers to g i v i n g it a frosted a p p e a r a n c e .
T h i s is done b y moistening the r i m of the glass a n d
dipping it in p o w d e r e d sugar. Sometimes the rim of
the glass is immersed to a depth of 1/4" or m o r e i n a
colored liqueur or syrup, such as grenadine. P r o b a b l y
the best method, h o w e v e r , is to r u n a w e d g e of lemon
or lime (cut so the j u i c e will flow freely) a r o u n d the
r i m of the glass. T h e glass is then inverted, a n y excess
moisture is shaken off, a n d the w e t r i m of the glass
is dipped i n a saucer of p o w d e r e d sugar. If p o w d e r e d
sugar is not a v a i l a b l e , fine g r a n u l a t e d sugar can be
substituted. N e v e r use XXXX or confectioner's sugar.
Frosting a d d s greatly both to the a p p e a r a n c e of the
drink and, in the case of certain cocktails such as the
D a i q u i r i , to their flavor.

Proper Glassware
U s e the right glass for the p a r t i c u l a r drink y o u are
serving. T h e reason is undoubtedly purely psycho-

96
 logical, but the fact remains that c h a m p a g n e in a Sour
glass, a cocktail in a whisky glass, or sherry in a coffee
c u p simply does not taste as it should. Drinking, as
distinguished from guzzling, is a fine art. T h e perfect
drink must a p p e a l to the sense of sight as well as to
the sense of smell a n d the sense of taste. If you
w o u l d w i n the a c c l a i m of y o u r guests, observe those
nuances that m a y sound trifling but actually m a k e
all the difference in the w o r l d .

"Reaction Time"
I once h a d a guest say to me, " D a v e , that is the most
delicious cocktail I ever tasted, but I wish y o u h a d
p u t a little liquor in it." T w e n t y or thirty minutes
later a n d after two of them, he said, " G r e a t heavens,
w h a t kind of dynamite did y o u conceal in that d r i n k ? "
T h e answer, of course, w a s that the cocktail con­
tained a fairly substantial a m o u n t of a h e a v y liqueur
a n d w a s smoothed out w i t h e g g white.
Different types of drinks h a v e different reaction
times. L i q u o r s that are u n a g e d or only slightly a g e d ,
such as gin, v o d k a , or a k v a v i t , give a quicker lift t h a n
those that are old a n d mellow, such as w e l l - a g e d whis­
kies. D r y drinks g i v e a m u c h quicker reaction t h a n
sweet drinks. E v e n the use of I t a l i a n v e r m o u t h will
slow d o w n the reaction time. T h e use of eggs, milk,
or c r e a m not only smooths out a n d covers u p the
sharp, biting tang of the drink but also greatly
lengthens the reaction time. E g g s , cream, a n d s u g a r
do not m a k e a drink milder—they only m a k e it taste
milder a n d postpone its effect. T h e alcoholic content
of the drink will, sooner or later, r e a c h the blood
stream and, a c c o r d i n g to the c a p a c i t y of the individ­
ual, will produce the same effect w h e t h e r it be thirty
seconds or thirty minutes after the drink is consumed.
T h a t is w h y sweet drinks a n d c r e a m y drinks are
dangerous. T h e y taste harmless, so the drinker has
another a n d another a n d , m a y b e , still another. L a t e r
on he experiences the c u m u l a t i v e effect of the entire

97
lot. Furthermore, such drinks do not stimulate the
appetite; they smother it. One of the deadliest of
this type of drink is the Alexander. It is not a prelude
to a meal; it is a meal in itself. And, by the same
token, probably the most perfect apéritif cocktail ever
invented is the Martini. It sharpens the taste; it
makes the stomach fairly cry out for food; and,
since its reaction time is practically instantaneous, it
gives fair warning to the drinker not to take too many.

98
 5
SIX BASIC COCKTAILS

T h e a v e r a g e host, w h o makes n o pretense of being

a n expert on liquors, can get along v e r y nicely w i t h a
knowledge of h o w to m i x a half dozen good cock­
tails. I n fact, if he c a n m a k e only t w o or three a n d
always makes them well he will stand m u c h higher in
the r e g a r d of his guests t h a n will the indiscriminate
chop-suey dispenser w h o throws together a little of
everything that chances to be lying around loose w i t h
no r e g a r d w h a t s o e v e r for the basic function to be
performed b y e a c h ingredient. L e t us therefore start
off w i t h just six cocktails a n d learn to m a k e t h e m
well. T h e y are the M a r t i n i , using g i n ; the M a n ­
h a t t a n a n d the O l d - F a s h i o n e d , using w h i s k y ; the
D a i q u i r i , using r u m ; the Side C a r , using c o g n a c ; a n d
the J a c k R o s e , using applejack.

T H E MARTINI
I h a v e already referred to the M a r t i n i as the most
perfect of apéritif cocktails. Unfortunately, h o w e v e r ,
the a v e r a g e M a r t i n i served either at h o m e or o v e r
a b a r is anything but perfect. T h i s is due in p a r t to
poor-quality liquors a n d in p a r t to the proportions
used. T h e usual recipe book sets forth proportions of

99
 gin a n d v e r m o u t h v a r y i n g from one third v e r m o u t h
a n d t w o thirds gin to half a n d half. Q u i t e recently,
in violent protest against this w i s h y - w a s h y type of
cocktail, there has sprung u p the vermouth-rinse
m e t h o d of m a k i n g M a r t i n i s . T h i s consists of rinsing
the inside surface of the cocktail glass w i t h v e r m o u t h ,
p o u r i n g it back in the bottle, a n d then filling the glass
w i t h iced gin. It is h a r d to say w h i c h is worse, the half-
and-half d i s h w a t e r or the swish-and-return d y n a m i t e .
B o t h fall short of w h a t a M a r t i n i should be.
T o d a y w h e n one mentions a M a r t i n i he i n v a r i a b l y
refers to the so-called D r y M a r t i n i ; i.e., one m a d e
w i t h F r e n c h v e r m o u t h . Y e t , strangely enough, the
M a r t i n i w a s originally m a d e w i t h I t a l i a n vermouth,
like a M a n h a t t a n . I t a l i a n v e r m o u t h a n d gin, h o w e v e r ,
d o not m a k e a w h o l l y pleasing combination, a n d this
cocktail is pretty m u c h forgotten. Nevertheless, y o u
will find m a n y books of cocktail recipes that list three
types of M a r t i n i s as follows ( a n d I d o not r e c o m m e n d
a n y of t h e m ) :

1. DRY MARTINI

1 part French Vermouth

2 parts G i n
2 dashes O r a n g e Bitters to e a c h drink

A s a b o v e noted, some recipes even call for equal parts

of gin a n d v e r m o u t h .

2. M E D I U M MARTINI

I part French Vermouth

I part Italian Vermouth
2 to 4 parts G i n
I dash O r a n g e Bitters & I dash A n g o s t u r a to e a c h
drink

S o m e recipes call for orange bitters only a n d some

omit the bitters altogether.
T h i s cocktail also goes u n d e r the n a m e of the
P E R F E C T . S o m e o n e once said that w h o e v e r n a m e d

100
 near-beer w a s a darned poor j u d g e of distance. I say
that w h o e v e r n a m e d the " P e r f e c t " cocktail w a s a
mighty poor j u d g e of perfection.
I t is also sometimes called the S O M E R S E T and, if
m a d e with equal parts of F r e n c h vermouth, I t a l i a n
v e r m o u t h , a n d gin, the Q U E E N .

3. S W E E T MARTINI

I part Italian Vermouth

2 parts G i n

S o m e recipes call for orange bitters, some for A n g o s ­

tura, a n d some for no bitters whatsoever. Also, as in
the case of the so-called D r y M a r t i n i s , some recipes
call for equal parts of v e r m o u t h a n d gin.
A n olive, either plain or stuffed, is ordinarily a d d e d
to the D r y M a r t i n i , a m a r a s c h i n o cherry to the M e ­
dium and Sweet Martinis.
T h e a b o v e recipes are g i v e n merely in order that
you m a y k n o w the difference between these various
types of M a r t i n i s as set forth in most recipe books
and as served at most bars. M y a d v i c e is to forget
them all and, in y o u r own home, serve one of the
following:

M A R T I N I DE LUXE • GIBSON DE LUXE

I part Noilly Prat Vermouth

5 parts Y e l l o w G i n (Booth's H o u s e of L o r d s or S e a ­
1
gram's Ancient Bottle)
2
S t i r well in a b a r glass or M a r t i n i pitcher w i t h large
cubes of ice a n d p o u r into chilled cocktail glasses.
T w i s t lemon peel o v e r the top.
T h e distinction between the M a r t i n i a n d the G i b ­
son is simple. T h e M a r t i n i is served w i t h a n olive,
the G i b s o n w i t h a small pickled cocktail onion.
1
T h e Martini made with yellow gin is sometimes known as
the GOLDEN M A R T I N I .
2
If you shake the Martini (see page 92) it becomes a B R A D ­
FORD.

101
 If you can get olives stuffed w i t h a n y kind of nuts,
they m a k e the perfect a c c o m p a n i m e n t to a M a r t i n i .
In choosing cocktail onions, get the hard, light-
colored, sour onions, not the dark, sweet ones.

A f t e r extensive experimentation I h a v e a r r i v e d at the

ratio of 5 to I as the proportion most pleasing to the
a v e r a g e palate. Personally, I like a ratio of a b o u t 7 to
I even better, a n d I k n o w some w h o prefer a ratio as
high as 1 0 to I. T r y out different mixtures a n d ascer­
tain w h i c h you like best. I h a v e found, h o w e v e r , that
everyone w h o likes m i x e d drinks at all likes a 5-to-I
ratio w i t h the right v e r m o u t h a n d w i t h the right gin
— e v e n those w h o n e v e r before w o u l d drink a M a r t i n i
at all. O n l y a v e r y f e w will like a m u c h higher pro­
portion of gin.
Please note that this cocktail absolutely requires a
gin of the highest quality, preferably a n a g e d gin.
W i t h ordinary run-of-the-mill (or should I say run-
of-the-still?) gin y o u will simply h a v e to use a higher
proportion of v e r m o u t h to o v e r c o m e the harsh, r a w -
alcohol taste of the gin. T h a t is the real reason for the
c o m m o n 2 - t o - I formula. W i t h a larger proportion of
v e r m o u t h (even the best v e r m o u t h ) , h o w e v e r , a n d
w i t h a n inferior gin, regardless of proportions, y o u
will h a v e a decidedly inferior cocktail. Unless y o u
h a v e a good F r e n c h vermouth, such as Noilly Prat, I
suggest that you use a good dry sherry, preferably a n
imported amontillado. M a r t i n i s m a d e w i t h dry sherry
a r e excellent. M a n y people prefer them to those m a d e
w i t h v e r m o u t h . I h a v e also found that sherry conceals
the harsh, tinny taste of a n inferior gin m u c h better
than v e r m o u t h . H e r e is a n excellent variation of the
M a r t i n i , using sherry in place of v e r m o u t h :

GORDON

I part Duff G o r d o n A m o n t i l l a d o S h e r r y
5 parts imported Gordon Gin

P r e p a r e a n d serve like the M a r t i n i de L u x e .

102
 If you are in a hurry or if y o u do not h a v e lemon peel
available, a f e w dashes of o r a n g e or lemon bitters (not
m o r e than t w o or three dashes to each drink) m a k e a
3
reasonably satisfactory substitute. Also, some people
like both the bitters a n d the twist of lemon.

A s occasional interesting variations in y o u r M a r t i n i s

try the addition of any one of the following:

A few dashes of c u r a ç a o (sometimes called the

FLYING DUTCHMAN).

A few dashes of Chartreuse (either green or

y e l l o w ) — s e e the N o m e , p a g e 2 1 3 .
A few dashes of absinthe. T h i s is sometimes
called the I N T E R N A T I O N A L . T h i s n a m e is also
sometimes applied to a M e d i u m M a r t i n i fla-
v o r e d w i t h a f e w dashes of crème de cassis or
Benedictine.

M a r t i n i s are also sometimes m a d e w i t h some other

liquor substituted for gin as a base—particularly a
liquor of neutral flavor such as v o d k a or tequila. W h e n
so m a d e , they are k n o w n as the V O D K A M A R T I N I ,
T E Q U I L A M A R T I N I , R U M M A R T I N I , a n d so on.

THE MANHATTAN
I list the M a n h a t t a n second a m o n g o u r six basic cock-
tails because, of all the hundreds of so-called cock-
tails listed in recipe books a n d the dozens listed on
the liquor cards of hotels a n d restaurants, m o r e M a r -
tinis a n d M a n h a t t a n s are sold t h a n a n y other kind.
3
Few people realize the importance of the "twist of lemon"
in the preparation of cocktails, particularly the Martini.
Some regard it as a fancy, rather frivolous, and wholly mean-
ingless gesture. Nothing could be farther from the truth. The
lemon must be fully ripe but the skin must be soft and flex-
ible. A hard, dried-out skin will not exude its oil when
twisted. When the bit of lemon peel is twisted over the glass,
the surface of the cocktail should be sprayed as if by an
atomizer with the oil of the lemon. This simple operation
transforms a mediocre cocktail into a good one and raises a
good cocktail to the level of frankincense and myrrh!
103
In fact, if w e leave out D a i q u i r i s a n d Old-Fashioneds,
there are m o r e M a r t i n i s a n d M a n h a t t a n s sold than all
other kinds p u t together.
J u s t as i n the case of M a r t i n i s , y o u will find M a n ­
h a t t a n recipes v a r y i n g all over the lot i n their propor­
tions. In fact, there are recipes that e v e n suggest t w o
parts of v e r m o u t h to one part of whisky. T h e usual
recipe, h o w e v e r , is one p a r t v e r m o u t h a n d t w o parts
whisky.
A further complication enters the M a n h a t t a n field
that is not found w i t h M a r t i n i s . W i t h M a r t i n i s it is
recognized that, irrespective of the proportions of v e r ­
m o u t h and gin, a S w e e t M a r t i n i is m a d e w i t h I t a l i a n
vermouth, a D r y M a r t i n i w i t h F r e n c h v e r m o u t h , a n d
a M e d i u m M a r t i n i w i t h a combination of the t w o
types of v e r m o u t h . T h e same distinction is usually
m a d e i n the case of M a n h a t t a n s . H o w e v e r , the
combination of F r e n c h v e r m o u t h a n d whisky is not
pleasing to most palates and, accordingly, on the as­
sumption that a M a n h a t t a n is a l w a y s m a d e w i t h
I t a l i a n v e r m o u t h only, some people n o w use the terms
D r y , S w e e t , a n d M e d i u m to designate the proportions
of v e r m o u t h a n d whisky, a S w e e t M a n h a t t a n being
one m a d e w i t h 5 0 p e r cent or m o r e of v e r m o u t h , a
M e d i u m M a n h a t t a n w i t h about t w o parts of whisky
to one of vermouth, a n d a D r y M a n h a t t a n w i t h three
or four parts of whisky to one of v e r m o u t h .
B o t h the M a n h a t t a n a n d the O l d - F a s h i o n e d a r e
usually m a d e w i t h rye whisky. I h a v e a l r e a d y pointed
out the fact that rye a n d bourbon c a n be used m o r e or
less interchangeably in most drinks a n d that they c a n
be used in combination i n most drinks. M a n y p e o p l e —
a n d I a m one of them—prefer the flavor of bourbon
to that of rye. If y o u are ordering one of these drinks
at a b a r a n d w a n t it m a d e w i t h bourbon, y o u should
specify " B o u r b o n M a n h a t t a n " or " B o u r b o n O l d -
F a s h i o n e d . " Also, y o u should specify a bonded
whisky. Otherwise the bartender will probably use a
blended w h i s k y — a n d w h a t e v e r blend gives the pro­
prietor the greatest m a r g i n of profit.

104
 I n all recipes in this book w h e r e either rye or bour­
bon can be used according to individual taste, I shall
simply use the w o r d " w h i s k y . " Scotch, h o w e v e r , is not
interchangeable w i t h A m e r i c a n whiskies. T h e r e f o r e ,
in recipes calling for the use of Scotch, the w o r d
" S c o t c h " will be used instead of " w h i s k y . "
L e t us n o w return to o u r three types of M a n h a t t a n s
as set forth in most recipe books. T h e y are as follows:
\
1. MANHATTAN (SWEET)
I part Italian Vermouth
2 parts Whisky
4
I dash A n g o s t u r a to e a c h d r i n k

A s a b o v e noted, some recipes call for equal parts of

whisky a n d v e r m o u t h a n d some for other proportions.

2. MANHATTAN (MEDIUM)

I part Italian Vermouth

I part French Vermouth
4 parts Whisky
I dash A n g o s t u r a to e a c h d r i n k

H e r e a g a i n the relative proportions of whisky a n d the

vermouths v a r y w i t h different authors. Also, some
recipes call for orange bitters as well as A n g o s t u r a .

3. M A N H A T T A N (DRY)

I part French Vermouth

2 parts Whisky
I dash A n g o s t u r a to e a c h drink

T h e comments respecting proportions as w e l l as those

respecting the use of orange bitters set forth a b o v e for
the M e d i u m M a n h a t t a n also a p p l y to the D r y M a n -
4
The Sweet Manhattan made without bitters but with both
orange peel and lemon peel in the mixture and shaken in­
stead of stirred is called the A R M Y .
The plain Sweet Martini, made half and half, is sometimes
called the N A V Y .
See also the Virgin, page 2 6 1 .
105
 hattan. I t is also quite c o m m o n to a d d a twist of l e m o n
a n d drop the peel into the D r y M a n h a t t a n .

A s in the case of the usual M a r t i n i recipes, the a b o v e

M a n h a t t a n recipes are given for general information
only. O n c e a g a i n I r e c o m m e n d that you forget them
all a n d that, in y o u r o w n home, y o u serve the follow­
ing:

MANHATTAN DE LUXE

I part C i n z a n o I t a l i a n V e r m o u t h
3 parts B o n d e d Whisky
I dash A n g o s t u r a to e a c h drink

Stir well in a b a r glass or M a r t i n i pitcher with large

cubes of ice a n d p o u r into chilled cocktail glasses. A d d
a m a r a s c h i n o cherry to e a c h glass. Unless the cherries
h a v e stems attached, spear e a c h cherry on a toothpick
or use glass fruit spears.

A s in the case of M a r t i n i s , interesting variations of

the M a n h a t t a n m a y be effected v e r y simply b y the
addition of a few dashes of c u r a ç a o or C h a r t r e u s e . I
do not r e c o m m e n d the addition of absinthe. If y o u like
a n absinthe-whisky combination, g o w h o l e h o g on it
and mix a Sazerac.
Also, as w i t h M a r t i n i s , M a n h a t t a n s are sometimes
m a d e w i t h different base liquors, a n d a r e then called
the SCOTCH M A N H A T T A N , R U M M A N H A T T A N ,
BRANDY M A N H A T T A N , APPLEJACK M A N H A T T A N ,
etc. T h e s e a r e m a d e w i t h I t a l i a n v e r m o u t h , the v a r i ­
ous M a r t i n i s w i t h F r e n c h v e r m o u t h .

T H E OLD-FASHIONED
If properly m a d e , this is a truly magnificent cocktail.
T h e principal reason that it does not enjoy a n even
greater popularity t h a n it n o w claims is that w h a t is
usually served as an O l d - F a s h i o n e d is actually a short
H i g h b a l l rather t h a n a cocktail. W a t e r , either plain
or c h a r g e d , has n o more p l a c e in a n O l d - F a s h i o n e d
106
 t h a n it has in a M a n h a t t a n or a M a r t i n i . T h e w a t e r
is usually a d d e d ostensibly for the purpose of dissolv­
ing the sugar. You c a n m a k e perfect Old-Fashioneds
only by using sugar syrup. H o w e v e r , if you do not
h a v e sugar syrup a v a i l a b l e you c a n m a k e a fairly pass­
able cocktail by using loaf sugar as follows:
Put one medium-sized l u m p of sugar in the O l d -
F a s h i o n e d glass a n d a d d enough l u k e w a r m w a t e r to
c o v e r it completely. W a t c h carefully until the sugar
starts to dissolve a n d then p o u r off all the w a t e r . A d d
three dashes of Angostura, crush the sugar w i t h a
muddler, a n d blend sugar a n d bitters thoroughly. A d d
a small quantity of whisky a n d stir w i t h a small spoon
until the sugar is completely dissolved a n d blended
w i t h the liquor. T h e n , a n d then only, complete the
cocktail. I t takes about twenty minutes to m a k e a
satisfactory O l d - F a s h i o n e d starting w i t h dry s u g a r ; it
takes about two minutes starting w i t h sugar syrup.
Also, the sugar syrup makes a smoother, better drink.
T h e r e f o r e , let's m a k e our Old-Fashioneds this w a y ,
using medium-sized O l d - F a s h i o n e d glasses (about 5
to 7 ounces) :

O L D - F A S H I O N E D D E L U X E P o u r into e a c h glass I to 2
teaspoonfuls simple syrup a n d a d d 1 to 3 dashes
A n g o s t u r a . Stir with a spoon to blend the bitters w i t h
the syrup. A d d about 1 oz. whisky a n d stir again. A d d
2 large cubes of ice, cracked but not crushed (see
p a g e 93). F i l l glass to within about 3/8" of top w i t h
whisky a n d stir a g a i n . A d d a twist of lemon a n d drop
peel in the glass. D e c o r a t e w i t h a m a r a s c h i n o cherry
on a spear. S e r v e w i t h short stir rod or O l d - F a s h i o n e d
spoon.

I h a v e been intentionally s o m e w h a t indefinite about

the quantity of sugar a n d bitters for two reasons. First,
you should experiment a n d determine for yourself
just h o w sweet you like the drink and just h o w m u c h
of the bitters flavor suits you best. Second, I h a v e
stated the recipe in terms of filling y o u r O l d - F a s h -
107
ioned glasses to within about 3/8" of the top a n d I do
not k n o w the exact size of y o u r glasses. Tastes v a r y
somewhat, of course, but I h a v e found that most
people like about I teaspoonful of sugar a n d I to 2
dashes of A n g o s t u r a to e a c h 2 ounces of whisky.
Also, please note that I h a v e suggested only a cherry
a n d a bit of lemon peel for decorations. You will fre­
quently find Old-Fashioneds served w i t h lemon,
orange, cherry, a n d pineapple. T h e bartenders' m a n ­
uals of the G a y Nineties w e r e replete with illustrations
of cocktails, Sours, Crustas, Smashes, Cobblers, a n d
other drinks decorated w i t h all the a b o v e fruits to­
gether w i t h strawberries, grapes, raspberries, etc., ac­
cording to the a v a i l a b l e supply a n d the fancy of the.
writer. A t the other extreme stand those w h o con­
temptuously refer to a n y cocktail decoration as "the
g a r b a g e . " M y o w n opinion is that fruit flavors a n d
liquors blend exquisitely a n d that, for a midafternoon
or a n evening drink, a n O l d - F a s h i o n e d is greatly i m ­
p r o v e d in its over-all a p p e a l by the judicious addition
of a f e w fruits. Fruits, h o w e v e r , properly belong at
the end of a dinner rather than at the beginning. A c ­
cordingly, w h e n serving O l d - F a s h i o n e d s as a n apéritif,
I r e c o m m e n d using only the lemon peel w i t h no fruit
at all or, at the most, a cherry or a thin slice of orange.
N o t e that in the O l d - F a s h i o n e d the only modifying
agents used are the bitters a n d sugar. T h e reaction
time of this cocktail is slower than that of a M a r t i n i
both because of its sugar content a n d because whisky
is slower than gin. D o n ' t be deceived by this. I t is not
a lighter drink than the M a r t i n i ; it is stronger. Its
action is merely delayed.
A s an occasional variation in y o u r O l d - F a s h i o n e d
try a d d i n g a teaspoonful of the j u i c e from y o u r bottle
of m a r a s c h i n o cherries or a dash of c u r a ç a o , C o i n ­
treau, Chartreuse, or L i q u e u r Strega.
Old-Fashioneds are also frequently m a d e w i t h
liquors other than rye or bourbon. S O U T H E R N C O M ­
F O R T makes a n excellent O L D - F A S H I O N E D but is a
bit on the sweet side. T h i s c a n be offset by using less

108
 5
sugar. T h e r e are also G I N O L D - F A S H I O N E D S ,
SCOTCH O L D - F A S H I O N E D S , B R A N D Y O L D - F A S H ­
IONEDS, R U M OLD-FASHIONEDS, APPLEJACK OLD-
F A S H I O N E D S , etc. A l l are m a d e exactly the same as
the Whisky O l d - F a s h i o n e d except for the liquor used.
W i t h G i n a n d R u m Old-Fashioneds, orange bitters
m a y be substituted for or used in combination w i t h
the A n g o s t u r a .

T H E DAIQUIRI (Also sometimes spelled D y k a r e e )

A t one time the generally accepted distinction be­

tween a B a c a r d i a n d a D a i q u i r i w a s that one w a s
m a d e w i t h grenadine a n d the other w i t h sugar. T h e
firm of B a c a r d i y C i a . , proprietors of the B a c a r d i
trade-mark, h o w e v e r , objected to the use of the n a m e
" B a c a r d i " as applied to a n y drink not m a d e w i t h
B a c a r d i r u m a n d m a i n t a i n e d in the courts of the
U n i t e d States their exclusive right to the use of that
n a m e . A c c o r d i n g l y , the cocktail m a d e w i t h sugar is
now k n o w n as a D a i q u i r i a n d the one m a d e w i t h
grenadine as a D a i q u i r i G r e n a d i n e or Pink D a i q u i r i .
If v e r m o u t h instead of citrus juice is used w i t h the
grenadine, the n a m e is E l Presidente. S e e p a g e 1 5 7 .
T h e original a n d correct recipe for the D a i q u i r i is
stated in terms of a single cocktail as 1/2 teaspoonful
sugar, j u i c e of half a lime, a n d I j i g g e r of white label
r u m . T h i s is a cocktail that is difficult to i m p r o v e
upon. I t is dry, yet smooth. T h e reaction time is short.
T h e lime a n d r u m blend perfectly. T h e D a i q u i r i , like
the O l d - F a s h i o n e d , deserves a n even greater p o p u ­
larity than it n o w enjoys. F o r e x a m p l e , it is, in m y
opinion, a vastly superior cocktail to the M a n h a t t a n ,
yet most bars sell m a n y m o r e M a n h a t t a n s than
Daiquiris. S o far as I can ascertain there a r e two
reasons w h y more Daiquiris are not sold: the use of
inferior rums a n d the use of i m p r o p e r proportions.
T h e Gin Old-Fashioned is also sometimes called the S T U B B Y
COLLINS, presumably because it is a Collins without the
charged water. When made with yellow gin it is sometimes
called the GOLDEN SPIKE.

109
 I n the chapter on limes, lemons, a n d liquors, I
pointed out the inferiority of Puerto R i c a n rums as
c o m p a r e d w i t h the C u b a n a n d the gross inferiority of
V i r g i n I s l a n d rums. Nevertheless, because of the price
differential, the o v e r w h e l m i n g proportion of r u m
actually used both by bars a n d in private homes is
Puerto R i c a n . T h e r e are, it is true, some reasonably
good P u e r t o R i c a n rums, but none as good as the
C u b a n . M a n y of the brands a r e not e v e n fairly good
a n d y o u can't m a k e a good D a i q u i r i without good
r u m . M a n y b a r cocktails are m a d e w i t h lemon instead
of lime juice a n d with lemons squeezed f a r in a d v a n c e
of m a k i n g the cocktails. F u r t h e r m o r e , since lemon
juice is m u c h c h e a p e r than good rum, it is a c o m m o n
practice to use m o r e lemon j u i c e a n d less r u m . Since
stepping u p the quantity of lemon j u i c e alone m i g h t
m a k e the cocktail too sour, the quantity of sugar is
also increased a n d the result is a cocktail that is any-
thing but dry.
A reasonably good D a i q u i r i c a n be m a d e w i t h
lemons instead of limes, but, to most tastes, it will not
be as good as one m a d e w i t h limes. Personally, I prefer
a m i x t u r e of the t w o citrus juices in the proportion of
about one lemon to three or four limes.
Also, other sweetening agents, particularly falernum
a n d orgeat, c a n be substituted for the sugar. B o t h of
these syrups h a v e a slight a l m o n d flavor that blends
well w i t h the r u m . F a l e r n u m , in fact, w a s invented in
the West Indies specifically for use with r u m drinks.
Personally, I think that the slight ginger flavor of faler-
n u m makes it a better sweetening agent for J a m a i c a
or the other heavier-bodied rums than for C u b a n r u m .
Orgeat, I consider ideal for use w i t h C u b a n white
label r u m . C r è m e d'ananas is also excellent.
F o l l o w i n g , then, are three varieties of the D a i q u i r i ,
all of w h i c h a r e excellent:

DAIQUIRI

I part Sugar Syrup

2 parts L i m e J u i c e
8 parts W h i t e L a b e l C u b a n R u m
110
 S h a k e vigorously w i t h plenty of finely crushed ice a n d
strain into chilled cocktail glasses.

D A I Q U I R I G R E N A D I N E S a m e as above, but use slightly

less s u g a r a n d a d d two dashes of grenadine for each
drink. Stir sugar, grenadine, a n d lime juice together
thoroughly before adding the rum.
T h i s is sometimes called the S A N T I A G O . B u t see
page 2 5 1 .

DAIQUIRI DE LUXE

I p a r t O r g e a t or C r è m e d ' A n a n a s
2 parts Citrus J u i c e m a d e by m i x i n g the j u i c e of one
large L e m o n w i t h that of three or four large L i m e s
8 parts C u b a n W h i t e L a b e l B a c a r d i or H a v a n a C l u b
Rum

S h a k e vigorously w i t h plenty of finely crushed ice a n d

strain into chilled a n d frosted cocktail glasses.

N o decoration should b e used w i t h the D a i q u i r i be-

cause it is a cloudy cocktail. Cherries, olives, etc., are
used largely as a m a t t e r of eye a p p e a l a n d therefore
belong primarily w i t h clear, translucent cocktails such
as the M a r t i n i a n d the M a n h a t t a n .
A l l r u m drinks (except hot toddies a n d the like)
should be frigid w h e n served. R u m , like v o d k a a n d
a q u a v i t , is at its best w h e n stinging cold. F o r that
reason it is best to use finely crushed ice, pre-chill both
shaker (to minimize dilution) a n d glasses, and, w h e n
shaking, shake as if y o u w e r e suffering a super-acute
attack of ague a n d S a i n t V i t u s d a n c e combined. T h e
F r o z e n D a i q u i r i a n d other frozen drinks will be dis-
cussed in a later chapter.

T H E SIDE CAR
T h i s cocktail is the most perfect e x a m p l e I k n o w of
a magnificent drink gone wrong. I t w a s invented by a
111
 friend of mine at a b a r in Paris during W o r l d W a r I
a n d w a s n a m e d after the motorcycle sidecar in w h i c h
the good captain customarily w a s driven to a n d from
the little bistro w h e r e the drink w a s born a n d chris­
tened. A s originally concocted it contained some six
or seven ingredients in p l a c e of the three n o w set forth
in practically all recipe books. T h e simplification of
the recipe by reducing the n u m b e r of ingredients
should not, in itself, affect the desirability of the cock­
tail. Unfortunately, h o w e v e r , the proportions a r e usu­
ally stated as equal parts of lemon j u i c e , C o i n t r e a u ,
a n d brandy. T h i s m a y not be a b a d f o r m u l a for a m i d -
afternoon drink, but for a n aperitif it is simply hor­
rible because of its sickish sweetness.
Essentially the S i d e Car is nothing but a D a i q u i r i
w i t h b r a n d y in the place of r u m a n d C o i n t r e a u in the
place of sugar syrup or orgeat. S o m e Side Car recipes
specify lime j u i c e , just as some D a i q u i r i recipes
specify lemon j u i c e . H o w e v e r , to most palates, lemon
combines m o r e pleasingly w i t h both b r a n d y a n d
whisky t h a n does lime.
I n m a k i n g our Side C a r s for service at home, there­
fore, let us stick to the same proportions as are used
in our D a i q u i r i s as follows:

S I D E CAR D E L U X E
I part Cointreau or Triple Sec
2 parts L e m o n J u i c e
8 parts C o g n a c or A r m a g n a c

S h a k e vigorously w i t h plenty of cracked or crushed

ice a n d strain into chilled cocktail glasses. A twist of
lemon m a y be used if desired a n d the peel d r o p p e d
into the glass. Otherwise no decoration.

T h e same drink m a y be m a d e w i t h a p p l e j a c k in place

of c o g n a c and, w h e n so m a d e , it is variously k n o w n as
the K I D D I E CAR, the A P P L E C A R , a n d the A P P L E ­
CART.

112
T H E JACK ROSE
As has previously been mentioned, the principal
reason that apple brandy has not gained greater favor
with the drinking public is the fact that it is sold be­
fore it is well aged. I venture to say that if some enter­
prising distiller would put out an apple brandy made
with the same loving care as cognac and aged in the
wood for ten, twenty, or even forty years, it would
soon rival grape brandies in popularity, especially for
use in mixed drinks.
Of the various applejack cocktails, the Jack Rose is
the best known and, apparently, the best liked. Once
again, if you will examine a dozen books of cocktail
recipes you will find formulas varying all the way
from applejack and lemon juice half and half with a
few dashes of grenadine to applejack and grenadine
half and half with a few drops of lemon juice. But,
just as the Side Car is essentially the same type of
cocktail as the Daiquiri with different base liquors
and sweetening agents, so is the Jack Rose essentially
the same as the Side Car with apple brandy used in
place of grape brandy and grenadine (primarily for
color) used in place of Cointreau. In fact, a Jack Rose
is nothing but a Pink Apple Car. Let us, therefore,
make it that way, and this is the way:

JACK ROSE DE LUXE

6
I part Grenadine
2 parts Lemon Juice
8 parts Apple Brandy
Shake vigorously with plenty of cracked or crushed ice
and strain into chilled cocktail glasses. A twist of
lemon may be used and the peel dropped into the
glass if desired. Otherwise no decoration.
A nice touch c a n be a d d e d to this drink by frosting the
glasses. H e r e , h o w e v e r , the rim of the glass should be
6
If you use plain sugar syrup instead of grenadine, you will
have an A P P L E J A C K S O U R , also called a J E R S E Y S O U R .

113
moistened w i t h grenadine instead of lemon j u i c e b e ­
fore dipping it in the p o w d e r e d sugar. A good w a y to
do this is to p o u r a little grenadine i n a saucer, d i p the
r i m of the glass, and, still holding the glass m o u t h
down, spin it by the stem to r e m o v e a n y excess liquid.
T h e n dip in p o w d e r e d sugar.

1 14
 6
ROLL YOUR OWN

T h e bartenders' m a n u a l of a half century a g o might

contain recipes for some t w o or three h u n d r e d drinks,
m a n y of w h i c h are seldom or n e v e r h e a r d of today. I n
addition to Sours, R i c k e y s , Fizzes, Punches, Highballs,
a n d Collinses, there w e r e Cobblers a n d Crustas a n d
C u p s ; there w e r e Daisies a n d F i x e s a n d Flips a n d
G r o g g s ; Smashes a n d Shrubs a n d T o d d i e s a n d N o g g s ;
there w e r e Slings a n d Gaffs a n d S a n g a r e e s ; K n i c k e r -
beins, S h a m p a r e l l e s , a n d Pousse-Cafes. O u t of these
several h u n d r e d assorted drinks, however, you w o u l d
find not m o r e than ten or twenty cocktail recipes.
T h e n along c a m e prohibition a n d the cocktail really
c a m e into its o w n . E v e r y o n e with a bottle of b a t h t u b
gin, a basket of fruit, a n d some icebox leftovers in­
vented a n e w cocktail. A l m o s t any liquid short of gaso­
line, a d d e d to the liquor of that era, w o u l d help
conceal its r a w alcohol taste and w o u l d therefore i m ­
p r o v e it. E g g s a n d cream, in particular, smooth out the
taste a n d disguise the alcoholic strength of liquor.
A n d so d a w n e d the d a y of poultry a n d dairy cocktails.
I f G e r a l d J o n e s discovered that w i l d chokecherries
steeped in bathtub gin g a v e it a n e w flavor, he there­
u p o n invented the J e r r y J o u n c e . If Bill Smith, w h e n
g i v e n a dose of citrate of magnesia by his doctor,

115
 chanced to note its lemon-like flavor, he immediately
tried it out w i t h his latest purchase of alleged Scotch
a n d treated his friends to his n e w l y invented Scotch
Citrate S o u r . H o w a n y of us m a n a g e d to survive the
horrors of those fourteen fearful years will e v e r r e m a i n
a mystery to me.
T o d a y almost any fair-sized book on m i x e d drinks
contains recipes for a n y w h e r e from three h u n d r e d to
six or seven h u n d r e d cocktails. O u t of every h u n d r e d
recipes perhaps three or four will be really good a n d
another half dozen c a n be m a d e respectable by re­
adjusting proportions. A s to the rest, the less said a n d
the sooner they are forgotten, the better. T h e y w e r e
conceived in ignorance a n d born of misunderstand­
ing. T h e y should be allowed to die in p e a c e a n d quiet.
Y e t you y o u r s e l f — a n y o n e — c a n invent cocktails,
good cocktails, palatable cocktails, delicious cocktails
by the dozen—nay, by the hundred. Y o u need no
recipe book. A l l y o u need is a n understanding of a f e w
fundamental principles a n d a reasonably discriminat­
ing taste. N o , I don't m e a n that you must be a n expert
liquor taster or a connoisseur of vintages a n d brands.
Y o u can tell w h e t h e r a drink is sweet or dry, c a n you
not? A n d y o u can distinguish the flavor of peaches
from that of cherries? You wouldn't dream of putting
sauerkraut on your ice cream nor of spreading horse­
radish on your strawberry shortcake? You can tell the
taste of quinine from that of mint? That is about all
the taste discrimination needed, if you thoroughly un­
derstand and rigidly adhere to just a few fundamentals.

Restatement of Basic Principles

A n d at this point, unless y o u r m e m o r y of the con­
tents of C h a p t e r I on basic principles is still v e r y clear,
it might not be a b a d i d e a to turn b a c k a n d reread
t h a t chapter. In a n y event, I will restate a few of those
principles, then amplify them by g i v i n g further de­
tails, a n d finally show their practical application in
m i x i n g cocktails without reference to a recipe book,
116
In other words, I shall try to show you how simple it
is to "roll your own."
I. The essential ingredients of a cocktail are (a)
the base and (b) the modifier. To these two basic in­
gredients there may also be added special flavoring
and coloring ingredients if desired.
2. With few exceptions, the base consists of one or
more spirituous liquors such as gin, vodka, rum,
whisky, brandy, etc. The base must always comprise
upward of 50 per cent of the total volume of the cock­
tail—usually much more. In the case of cocktails
where the modifier consists solely of bitters (such as
the Gin Cocktail) or consists of bitters and sugar
(such as the Old-Fashioned), the base will constitute
practically 100 per cent of the total volume. With
Sour-type cocktails, the base will usually average from
80 to 90 per cent of total volume, depending upon
whether or not special flavoring and smoothing agents
are used and, with cocktails employing an aromatic
wine modifier, from 65 to 85 per cent.
3. While there are numerous varieties of modifiers,
such as citrus juices, aromatic wines, bitters, cordials,
cream, eggs, etc., all but a very few cocktails, irre­
spective of the liquor employed for a base, can be
divided into two types, depending on the modifier
used: (a) the aromatic type and (b) the Sour type.
4. The aromatic type of cocktail employs, as a
modifier, bitters or one of the various aromatic wines
—French vermouth, Italian vermouth, Dubonnet,
Byrrh, etc.—or both. Since a dry sherry is sometimes
substituted for French vermouth in Martinis and
similar cocktails, such cocktails, although not strictly
aromatic, may, for the sake of convenience, be
grouped with the aromatic type.
5. The Sour type is so named not because it tastes
sour but because it is patterned after the various
Sours; i.e., it consists of lemon or lime juice, sugar or
some other sweetening, and a spirituous liquor. If you
will examine practically any book of cocktail recipes
you will find that a very large percentage of the
117
 recipes are of this type. That is because the citrus
juices blend well with all kinds of spirituous liquors
and all kinds of cordials and fruit juices. The ver­
mouths and other aromatic wines, on the other hand,
do not blend well with most cordials or other sweeten­
ing agents. If the cordial is itself an aromatic liqueur,
such as Benedictine, Chartreuse, Van der Hum, or
Liqueur Strega, it may be blended with an aromatic
wine, but a mixture of aromatic wine with plain fruit
flavors such as apricot, peach, maraschino, grenadine,
etc., results in a brackish, unpalatable taste. The com­
bination is analogous to sprinkling sage or poultry
seasoning (both of which are aromatics) on your
raspberry sherbet.

Sours
Since the o v e r w h e l m i n g majority of our cocktails are
of the S o u r type, let us first learn h o w to m a k e Sours.
Sours are usually served at bars in a S o u r or D e l -
m o n i c o glass a n d are garnished with a cherry, a slice
of orange, a n d sometimes a pineapple stick or a slice
of lemon. H o w e v e r , there is n o reason w h y they should
not be served (with the decorations or " g a r b a g e "
omitted) in a cocktail glass.
M o s t recipe books state their formulas in terms of
teaspoonfuls of sugar, j u i c e of a lime, j u i c e of half a
lemon, etc.—i.e., in terms of e a c h individual drink.
H o w e v e r , for reasons heretofore stated, I assume that
the r e a d e r will seldom m i x less than four cocktails at
one time. A c c o r d i n g l y , in g i v i n g recipes for drinks to
be m i x e d in a shaker (as distinguished from Highballs
a n d other drinks individually p r e p a r e d ) I shall d o so
in terms of relative proportions; i.e., so m a n y parts of
e a c h ingredient, a n d the same proportions, of course,
will a p p l y w h e t h e r m i x i n g one drink or twenty. M o r e ­
over, I greatly prefer the recipe that specifies the
quantity or the n u m b e r of parts of citrus juices to the
one that simply says " j u i c e of one l i m e " or " j u i c e of
half a l e m o n . " I h a v e squeezed some lemons that

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yielded only a scant half ounce of juice a n d others
that yielded nearly two ounces. T h e same variation
will be found in the other citrus fruits. W h a t price,
then, " j u i c e of one l e m o n " ?
A s has already been stated, a S o u r is simply a com­
bination of citrus j u i c e (lemon or lime or b o t h ) , sugar
or other sweetening, a n d liquor. A s with other drinks,
the proportions v a r y all o v e r the m a p , according to
the personal w h i m s a n d individual taste of the author
of the recipe. T h e bartenders' m a n u a l of a half cen­
tury a g o specified for each i n d i v i d u a l drink 1/2 table-
spoonful sugar, 3 or 4 dashes lemon j u i c e , a n d 3 to 4
ounces of liquor. O t h e r writers h a v e tried to stand­
ardize on "I sweet, 2 sour, 3 strong." Still others a d ­
vise as m u c h as 6 parts of lemon juice to 1 part of
sugar. A n d with a v a r i a n c e a m o n g professional bar­
tenders ranging all the w a y from I sour a n d 4 sweet
to I sweet a n d 6 sour a n d all the w a y from 2 to 8
parts of liquor for e a c h part of combined lemon a n d
sugar, m a n y of these writers still w a r n the gullible
r e a d e r that he must follow proportions w i t h meticu­
lous a c c u r a c y lest the entire drink be ruined!
T h e truth of the matter is, of course, that that pro­
portion of sweet a n d sour is best w h i c h best pleases
the taste of the individual drinker, provided, always,
that for the aperitif cocktail the final blend w i t h the
liquor base will produce a drink that is dry, not sweet.
J u s t h o w dry, again, is a question of personal prefer­
ence, but let it never be sweet. T h i s is a m a t t e r not of
ruining the drink but of ruining the appetite a n d the
digestion.
I n the true Sour, served in a tall glass a n d garnished
w i t h fruit, the proportion of citrus j u i c e (particularly
w h e r e lemon is used) to liquor m a y properly be quite
a bit higher t h a n in the S o u r type of cocktail. T h i s is
both because the drinker expects, i n a Sour, more of
the sour taste a n d lemon flavor t h a n he does in a cock­
tail a n d because the fruit w i t h w h i c h the drink is
decorated to some extent counteracts the acidity of
the citrus j u i c e . F o r the cocktail, a n d using sugar

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 syrup instead of dry sugar, I h a v e found that for most
palates the proportion of I sweet, 2 sour, a n d 8 strong
is about right. E x p e r i m e n t with it for yourself. If y o u
find it a bit too sour or a bit too sweet for y o u r indi­
v i d u a l taste, c h a n g e the proportions of the citrus juice
a n d s u g a r accordingly. U s i n g this proportion, h o w ­
ever, w e a r r i v e a t the following recipes for S o u r s :

GIN SOUR
I part S u g a r S y r u p
2 parts L i m e or L e m o n J u i c e
8 parts G i n

A dash o r two of lime, lemon, or o r a n g e bitters to e a c h

drink m a y be a d d e d if desired.

Citrus j u i c e a n d sugar smooth d o w n the r a w alcohol

taste of white g i n m u c h m o r e than does vermouth.
T h e r e f o r e , while yellow gin is a " m u s t " for a perfect
M a r t i n i , white gin, particularly imported English gin,
is satisfactory in Sours a n d Sour-type cocktails.

RUM SOUR

I part S u g a r S y r u p
2 parts L i m e o r L e m o n J u i c e
8 parts R u m

N o w , supposing that w e specify lime juice a n d white

C u b a n rum, does this recipe sound familiar? R i g h t !
T h e famous D a i q u i r i . F o r a D a i q u i r i , mes enfants, is
nothing more nor less than a Rum Sour!

WHISKY SOUR

I part S u g a r S y r u p
2 parts L e m o n J u i c e
8 parts R y e or B o u r b o n

T w o or three dashes of A n g o s t u r a to e a c h drink con­

stitute a pleasing addition to this drink. L i m e juice
m a y be used in place of lemon, but, to most tastes,

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 lemon combines m o r e pleasingly with whisky than
does lime. Scotch or Irish m a y be used in place of rye
or bourbon, but the smoky taste of Scotch does not
combine pleasingly with citrus juices.
A Whisky S o u r without the sugar is sometimes
called a P A L M E R .

BRANDY SOUR

I part Sugar Syrup

2 parts L i m e or L e m o n J u i c e
8 parts C o g n a c or A r m a g n a c

A s in the case of the Whisky Sour, lemon juice gives

a somewhat m o r e pleasing combination than lime
juice.

Does this also sound somewhat familiar? Suppose we

stick to lemon juice and substitute Cointreau or T r i p l e
Sec for the sugar syrup. W h a t do w e h a v e ? R i g h t
a g a i n — t h e Side C a r !

APPLEJACK SOUR
I part Sugar Syrup
2 parts L i m e or L e m o n J u i c e
8 parts A p p l e B r a n d y

As in the case of the Whisky and B r a n d y Sours, lemon

is preferable to lime j u i c e .

N o w let us once a g a i n substitute T r i p l e Sec for the

sugar syrup. R e s u l t : the K i d d i e C a r or A p p l e C a r .
O r , again, instead of the T r i p l e S e c , substitute
grenadine. R e s u l t : the J a c k R o s e .
D o y o u begin to see how, w i t h just a few funda­
m e n t a l principles and two or three basic formulas, it
is simple a n d easy to produce n e w cocktails ad in­
finitum? A s a m a t t e r of fact, the only difficult feat in
foisting new cocktails on a n unsuspecting public is
n a m i n g t h e m ! T h a t I leave to the l a d y w h o , accord-
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 ing to tradition, is p a i d h u g e sums by the P u l l m a n
C o m p a n y for n a m i n g n e w sleeping cars. I n e v e r (well,
h a r d l y e v e r ) a t t e m p t it.
A n y spirituous liquor (but not a liqueur) can, of
course, be substituted for the gin, r u m , whisky, etc., in
the a b o v e recipes a n d , w i t h such substitution of the
a p p r o p r i a t e liquor, you can h a v e a V O D K A S O U R , a
TEQUILA SOUR, an AQUAVIT SOUR, an APRICOT
B R A N D Y S O U R , a K I R S C H S O U R , a n d so on—as long
as y o u r varieties of spirituous liquors hold out. I sup­
pose y o u could even h a v e a S L I V O V I T Z S O U R , though
why, I w o u l d n ' t know. O n second thought, perhaps a
bit of lime juice a n d sugar might t a m e that otherwise
fractious a n d unbridled liquor d o w n to a point w h e r e
it could be s w a l l o w e d without i n d u c i n g convulsions.
I must m a k e a note to try it someday. A n d I might
also try a n E A U D E V I E D E M A R C S O U R .
N o w that w e fully understand the general principle
of m a k i n g Sours, let us experiment with a few inter­
esting variations. A s w e improvise w e must a l w a y s
r e m e m b e r that the S o u r is the underlying melody.
Sometimes the bass will carry the a i r a n d sometimes
the treble. W e m a y introduce arpeggios, trills, runs,
octaves, a n d other v a r i a t i o n s ; w e m a y p l a y in 2/4, 4/4,
6/8, or even w a l t z t i m e ; w e m a y even syncopate the
t i m e ; but a l w a y s one of the Sours will stand out as
the theme about w h i c h w e are extemporizing. A n d ,
since gin is the most versatile of all liquors for blend­
ing purposes, let us begin w i t h

Cocktails Based on the Gin Sour

D u r i n g prohibition days it w a s m y good fortune to
h a v e to m a k e frequent business trips to w h a t w a s then
the great oasis of the N o r t h A m e r i c a n d e s e r t — C a n ­
a d a . A t M o n t r e a l I w a s regularly entertained for
luncheon at that magnificent old institution, the St.
J a m e s C l u b , a n d there the standard cocktail w a s
called simply a G i n S o u r . A c t u a l l y , it w a s a G i n S o u r
embellished with egg white—that, a n d nothing more.

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 I t is a splendid drink, smooth, palatable, easy to take,
yet dry enough not to dull the appetite. A s the first of
our variations, therefore, I give you the

M O N T R E A L GIN S O U R

I part Sugar Syrup

2 parts L e m o n J u i c e
8 parts G i n
I E g g W h i t e to e a c h 2 drinks

Put all ingredients except the gin in the shaker w i t h

cracked ice. S h a k e vigorously until thoroughly
blended a n d creamy. A d d 1/4 to 1/2 the gin a n d c o m ­
bine, then a d d balance of gin a n d shake. Strain into
chilled cocktail glasses.

Y o u will r e m e m b e r that in the Side C a r w e substituted

C o i n t r e a u or T r i p l e S e c for sugar. T h e same substitu­
tion in the M o n t r e a l G i n S o u r gives us the

WHITE LADY

I p a r t C o i n t r e a u or T r i p l e S e c
2 parts L e m o n J u i c e
8 parts G i n
I E g g W h i t e to e a c h 2 drinks

F o l l o w directions for M o n t r e a l G i n S o u r . L i m e j u i c e ,
in place of lemon, makes a n interesting variation.
T h e ladies m a y like this a bit sweeter, in w h i c h case
you c a n increase the C o i n t r e a u to 2 parts.

O n e of the best e x a m p l e s I h a v e e v e r seen of h o w n e w

cocktails are created occurred w h e n m y older d a u g h ­
ter returned home after an appendectomy. I set out
to m i x a W h i t e L a d y for the good doctor a n d myself
as a fitting celebration of the child's recovery. U n ­
fortunately, h o w e v e r , u p o n strict search I found m y ­
self entirely destitute of C o i n t r e a u . I did, nevertheless,
h a v e a full bottle of R . O . C . c u r a ç a o a n d this, I de­
cided, w o u l d a n s w e r in place of the C o i n t r e a u . Since

123
 the c u r a ç a o is orange-colored, I also decided to use a
whole egg instead of egg white. A n d thus w a s born the

APPENDICITIS

I part Curaçao
2 parts L e m o n J u i c e
8 parts G i n
I W h o l e E g g to e a c h 4 drinks

F o l l o w directions for m i x i n g M o n t r e a l G i n S o u r but

a d d the gin to the other ingredients in 3 or 4 install­
ments instead of 2 .

Since that time I h a v e found that the drink c a n be

still further i m p r o v e d upon by substituting G r a n d
M a r n i e r for the c u r a ç a o a n d lime for the lemon a n d
using only the white of the egg. I call this the

APPENDICITIS DE LUXE

I part Grand Marnier

2 parts L i m e J u i c e
8 parts G i n
I E g g W h i t e to e a c h 2 drinks

F o l l o w directions for m i x i n g the Appendicitis.

E a r l y in the book I spoke in disparaging terms of the

Bee's K n e e s . T h i s , h o w e v e r , w a s because as it orig­
inally c a m e out during prohibition days it consisted
of e q u a l parts of lemon juice, honey, a n d gin. If m a d e
as a variation of the standard G i n S o u r , merely sub­
stituting honey for the sugar syrup, it is acceptable.

BEE'S KNEES

I part Honey
2 parts L e m o n J u i c e
8 parts G i n

S h a k e vigorously with cracked ice. T h e addition of a

small a m o u n t of orange j u i c e (about I to 2 parts)
makes a n interesting variation.
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 T h e same drink, e x c e p t for the use of white C u b a n
r u m in place of the gin, is k n o w n as the H O N E Y ­
S U C K L E . T h e s a m e drink w i t h J a m a i c a r u m is the
H O N E Y B E E . The Honeysuckle is also sometimes
called the A I R M A I L .

If w e substitute m a r a s c h i n o liqueur for the sugar

syrup or honey w e shall h a v e the

AVIATION

I part Maraschino
2 parts L e m o n J u i c e
8 parts G i n

S h a k e vigorously w i t h cracked ice.

T h e same drink, except for the use of r u m in p l a c e
of the gin, is k n o w n as the B E A C H C O M B E R .
A n interesting variation of this cocktail is the
substitution of m a r a s c h i n o a n d C o i n t r e a u , equal parts,
in place of the plain maraschino. S o m e recipe books
list, under the n a m e of " A v i a t i o n , " a n entirely differ­
ent drink consisting of e q u a l parts of D u b o n n e t a n d
sherry.

N o w note h o w small a change c a n produce a differ­

ent cocktail—or, at least, a different n a m e .

CASINO

I part Maraschino
I part L e m o n Juice
I part O r a n g e J u i c e
8 parts G i n

F o l l o w directions for m i x i n g the A v i a t i o n .

H e r e a g a i n it should be noted that at least one
recipe book lists, u n d e r the n a m e of " C a s i n o " a quite
different cocktail m a d e w i t h gin, whisky, C o i n t r e a u ,
slivovitz, a n d I t a l i a n vermouth. H o r r o r of horrors!

A n o t h e r s p a w n of the prohibition toad t h a t I h a v e a l ­

ready denounced is the O r a n g e Blossom, consisting of

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 equal parts of gin a n d orange j u i c e . If, h o w e v e r , this
drink is treated as a Sour-type cocktail a n d m a d e a c -
cordingly, it is not too b a d . I n doing this it must be
borne in m i n d that orange juice is sweeter a n d less
pungent t h a n either lime or lemon j u i c e . H e n c e , the
quantity of sugar must b e cut d o w n a n d that of the
citrus j u i c e increased.

ORANGE BLOSSOM

1/2 p a r t S u g a r S y r u p
4 parts O r a n g e J u i c e
8 parts G i n

S h a k e vigorously w i t h cracked ice. T h e zest a n d flavor

of this drink m a y be i m p r o v e d by a d d i n g 2 or 3 dashes
of lime j u i c e for e a c h drink.
T h i s drink is sometimes incorrectly called the G I M -
L E T . A c t u a l l y the G i m l e t is a G i n R i c k e y a n d is m a d e
w i t h sugar, lime j u i c e , gin, a n d carbonated w a t e r . I t
is served in a D e l m o n i c o or S o u r glass. I t is also served
as a cocktail, omitting the carbonated water.
T h e O r a n g e Blossom is also sometimes called the
A D I R O N D A C K a n d the F L O R I D A . B u t see p a g e 2 3 1 .

N o w let us try one or two cocktails in w h i c h a special

coloring agent is introduced.

BLUE DEVIL • BLUE MOON

I p a r t C r è m e Y v e t t e or Parfait A m o u r
2 parts L e m o n J u i c e
8 parts G i n

Strain the lemon j u i c e through a cloth or fine mesh

strainer to remove as m u c h pulp as possible. Stir in-
gredients w i t h large ice cubes. T h i s cocktail is some-
times m a d e w i t h the addition of egg white, in w h i c h
case it c a n be shaken instead of being stirred a n d it is
not necessary to strain the lemon juice.

I n Paris I h e a r d loud praises sung of the O I S E A U

B L E U or B L U E B I R D , m a d e w i t h a teaspoonful each
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 of lemon j u i c e a n d "blue c u r a ç a o " to e a c h glass of
gin. I h a d never h e a r d of a n y such a n i m a l as blue
c u r a ç a o a n d I therefore started investigating. I t is
merely white c u r a ç a o or T r i p l e S e c to w h i c h blue
vegetable coloring m a t t e r has been a d d e d .

GREENBACK

I p a r t G r e e n C r è m e de M e n t h e
2 parts L i m e J u i c e
8 parts G i n

S t r a i n the lime juice, as in the case of the B l u e M o o n ,

a n d stir w i t h l a r g e ice cubes. A s a n occasional v a r i -
ation, a d d three dashes absinthe for each drink.

N o w t u r n b a c k for a m o m e n t to the Appendicitis de

L u x e . If w e leave out the e g g white a n d a d d grena-
dine w e shall h a v e the

RED LION

1/2 p a r t G r a n d M a r n i e r
1/2 part Grenadine
2 parts L i m e J u i c e
8 parts G i n

S h a k e vigorously with c r a c k e d ice.

T h e r e are t w o fairly c o m m o n gin cocktails of the S o u r

family employing e g g whites, one m a d e w i t h gin only
a n d one w i t h both gin a n d applejack.

CLOVER CLUB

I p a r t G r e n a d i n e or R a s p b e r r y S y r u p
1
2 parts Lemon Juice
8 parts G i n
I E g g W h i t e to e a c h 2 drinks
1
Some recipe books prescribe I part each of French and
Italian vermouth in addition to the lemon juice. This is in-
correct and results in a much inferior cocktail.
127
 F o l l o w directions for m i x i n g M o n t r e a l G i n S o u r ,
page 1 2 3 .
T h i s same cocktail w i t h a small sprig of mint floated
on top of the drink is called the CLOVER L E A F .

PINK LADY

I part Grenadine
2 parts L e m o n or L i m e J u i c e
2 parts A p p l e B r a n d y
6 parts G i n
I E g g W h i t e to e a c h 2 drinks

F o l l o w directions for m i x i n g M o n t r e a l G i n Sour,

page 1 2 3 .
C o m p a r e Opalescent, p a g e 2 4 4 .

A n d , finally, to conclude our cocktails of the G i n S o u r

type, here a r e t w o that show h o w easy it is to combine
a half dozen or more liqueurs i n a cocktail a n d still
p r o d u c e a dry, palatable, a n d w h o l l y satisfactory
drink, p r o v i d e d the basic proportions of a S o u r are
maintained. B o t h of these drinks h a v e always been
hailed w i t h enthusiasm w h e n I h a v e served them.

T H E S H E I K M i x in a separate shaker or glass e q u a l

parts of g r e n a d i n e , peach, apricot, C o i n t r e a u , Cura­
çao, m a r a s c h i n o , a n d G r a n d M a r n i e r .

C o m b i n e i n the s h a k e r :

I part of the a b o v e L i q u e u r m i x t u r e
2 parts L i m e J u i c e
I part J a m a i c a R u m
7 parts G i n

S h a k e vigorously w i t h c r a c k e d ice a n d strain into

chilled a n d frosted cocktail glasses.

QUEEN OF SHEBA S a m e as T h e Sheik but w i t h the

addition of one e g g white for e a c h 2 drinks. S h a k e
lime j u i c e , liqueurs, a n d egg white together before
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 a d d i n g J a m a i c a r u m a n d gin. T h e n a d d these liquors
in 2 or 3 installments, shaking after e a c h addition.

T h e s e a r e the recipes for fifteen cocktails all based on

the theme of the G i n S o u r . F o r the sake of simplicity
a n d uniformity, I h a v e written all but one on the
basis of I sweet, 2 sour, 8 strong, but this is b y no
m e a n s a n inflexible rule. T a s t e y o u r cocktail. If y o u
think it a bit too sour, a d d more s u g a r o r other sweet­
ening; if y o u think it a bit too sweet, a d d m o r e lemon
or lime j u i c e ; if y o u think the citrus flavor o r the
liqueur flavor stands out too m u c h , a d d m o r e gin.
Y o u probably will not find a n y of the a b o v e recipes
stated in exactly the same proportions in a n y other
book o n m i x e d drinks. F o r e x a m p l e , I h a v e one book
that prescribes equal parts of lime j u i c e a n d grenadine
for the Pink L a d y ; another specifies 1/2 ounce lime
juice a n d 4 dashes g r e n a d i n e ; a n d still another, e q u a l
parts of g r e n a d i n e a n d a p p l e j a c k w i t h a few dashes of
lime j u i c e . T h e r e a r e just three rules that y o u should
follow in m i x i n g y o u r cocktails:

I. T h e base of spirituous liquor should a l w a y s

p r e d o m i n a t e ; i.e., it should be a G i n C o c k t a i l , a
R u m C o c k t a i l , etc., a n d not a S u g a r C o c k t a i l , a
G r e n a d i n e C o c k t a i l , a L e m o n C o c k t a i l , or a n
E g g Cocktail.

2. I t should a l w a y s be dry, not sweet.

3. W i t h i n these limitations, it should contain
such proportions of the various ingredients as
best suit y o u r personal taste or that of y o u r
guests for w h o m you are m i x i n g it. T h e only
merit I c l a i m for the 1-2-8 f o r m u l a is that I h a v e
found, w i t h most cocktails of the S o u r type, that
is the ratio that seems to be most pleasing to the
taste of the greatest n u m b e r of people.

Cocktails Based on the Rum Sour

Of course the outstanding cocktail of the Rum Sour
type is the Daiquiri, which is a Rum Sour, pure and
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 simple. I h a v e already described the D a i q u i r i G r e n a -
dine or Pink D a i q u i r i , using grenadine, a n d the
D a i q u i r i de L u x e , using orgeat or crème d'ananas. I
h a v e also mentioned the fact that f a l e r n u m m a y like-
wise be substituted for the sugar w i t h a resulting flavor
s o m e w h a t similar to that of the D a i q u i r i de L u x e . If
w e substitute equal parts of maraschino a n d C o i n t r e a u
in place of the s u g a r syrup w e h a v e the

BEACHCOMBER S e e A v i a t i o n recipe, p a g e 1 2 5 .

If w e substitute honey w e h a v e the

AIRMAIL • HONEY BEE • HONEYSUCKLE See Bee's

K n e e s recipe, p a g e 1 2 4 .

If w e a d d egg white to our Pink D a i q u i r i w e get the

SEPTEMBER MORN

Slightly less t h a n I p a r t S u g a r S y r u p
2 parts L i m e J u i c e
8 parts W h i t e C u b a n R u m
2 to 3 dashes G r e n a d i n e to each drink
I E g g W h i t e to e a c h 2 drinks

B l e n d the egg whites w i t h the sugar, grenadine, a n d

lime j u i c e before a d d i n g the r u m . S h a k e vigorously
w i t h finely crushed ice a n d strain into chilled a n d
frosted cocktail glasses.

If, in place of sugar in our D a i q u i r i , w e use curaçao

a n d g r e n a d i n e a n d if w e substitute lemon for lime
j u i c e , w e h a v e the

MORNING ROSE

I p a r t C u r a ç a o or C o i n t r e a u
2 parts L e m o n J u i c e
8 parts W h i t e C u b a n R u m
2 or 3 dashes G r e n a d i n e to e a c h drink

S h a k e w i t h finely crushed ice a n d strain into chilled

cocktail glasses.

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 H e r e is another variation closely similar to the M o r n -
ing R o s e — i n fact, I think it is at its best if m a d e ex-
actly a c c o r d i n g to the M o r n i n g R o s e formula, merely
substituting apricot liqueur for the curaçao or C o i n -
treau. H o w e v e r , the following is the original f o r m u l a
as given m e by H e r b S m i t h of the S p a n i s h R o o m at
the Deshler-Wallick H o t e l in C o l u m b u s , O h i o , one of
the best bartenders I h a v e met since prohibition re-
peal. H e takes his profession seriously, really studies
his liquors, a n d really knows them. H e takes keen
pride in his w o r k a n d in m a k i n g y o u r drink exactly as
you like it. His besetting sin is that, personally, he likes
t h e m a bit on the sweet side, w h i c h accounts for the
s o m e w h a t ladylike ( a n d , therefore, insidious) quality
of the

MAÑANA
I part Lemon Juice
I part Grenadine
2 parts M a r i e B r i z a r d A p r y
6 parts W h i t e C u b a n R u m

S h a k e a n d serve like the M o r n i n g R o s e . T h i s drink

m a y also be g i v e n a rather pleasing quirk by the addi-
tion of I dash of B o o n e k a m p bitters to e a c h drink.
C o m p a r e the C u b a n A p r i c o t , p a g e 1 3 3 .

I f w e a d d p i n e a p p l e j u i c e a n d egg white to our R u m

S o u r , w e h a v e the

SNOW WHITE
1 part Sugar Syrup
2 parts Lime Juice
2 parts P i n e a p p l e J u i c e
8 parts W h i t e C u b a n R u m
I Egg W h i t e to e a c h 2 drinks

F o l l o w directions for m i x i n g the S e p t e m b e r M o r n . I f

fresh p i n e a p p l e j u i c e is not available, a somewhat
similar cocktail (but not so good) c a n be m a d e by
substituting p i n e a p p l e syrup for the s u g a r syrup.

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 Mint blends well with all the spirituous liquors and,
when fresh mint is not available, crème de menthe
may be used with a somewhat similar effect. Cocktails
with a mint flavor are especially well liked on hot
summer days. The use of white crème de menthe in
place of sugar in a Rum Sour gives us the
MIAMI

I p a r t White C r è m e de M e n t h e
2 parts L e m o n o r L i m e J u i c e
8 parts W h i t e C u b a n R u m

S h a k e with finely crushed ice. T h e chilled cocktail

glasses m a y be frosted, using crème de m e n t h e to
moisten the r i m of the glass before d i p p i n g it in sugar.
A n o t h e r version of the M i a m i uses C o i n t r e a u in-
stead of crème de menthe. T h i s , of course, is simply a
R u m S i d e C a r . Still another version consists of i part
g i n a n d 2 parts p i n e a p p l e j u i c e .

A n e v e n better mint-flavored s u m m e r cocktail is the

M A I S O N C H A R L E S (pronounced m a y - s a w N ' sharl)

I part Sugar Syrup

2 parts L i m e J u i c e
8 parts W h i t e C u b a n R u m
Fresh Mint
G e n t l y crush a f e w sprigs of mint in a b a r glass, c o v e r
w i t h r u m , a n d let it stand for 1 5 to 3 0 minutes. P o u r
this infusion into the shaker w i t h the lime j u i c e a n d
s u g a r syrup. S h a k e with finely crushed ice.
C u t a few leaves of m i n t v e r y fine, being careful not
to use e v e n the fine stems. T h i s m a y be done w i t h a
sharp p a r i n g knife or w i t h a parsley cutter. M i x a
small quantity of this finely c h o p p e d mint w i t h pow-
dered sugar a n d use for frosting the cocktail glasses.
C h i l l the glasses, strain the cocktail into them, a n d
sprinkle a v e r y few bits of the c h o p p e d m i n t o n top as
a final decoration.

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 T h e M A D I S O N A V E N U E is m a d e in the same m a n ­
ner as the M a i s o n C h a r l e s except that C o i n t r e a u is
substituted for the sugar syrup.

R u m , like gin, blends well w i t h m a n y other liquors.

H e r e is a cocktail using a r u m a n d cognac combina­
tion as a base.

BOLERO

I part Sugar Syrup

2 parts L i m e J u i c e
4 parts G o l d L a b e l C u b a n R u m
4 parts C o g n a c
I teaspoonful O r a n g e J u i c e to each drink

S h a k e w i t h finely crushed ice.

A n o t h e r cocktail employing orange juice illustrates
h o w slight a modification of the S o u r formula will g i v e
rise to a different drink.

CUBAINE

1 part Sugar Syrup

1 part Lemon Juice
1 part Orange Juice
8 parts W h i t e C u b a n R u m

S h a k e w i t h finely crushed ice.

A l l the rums blend perfectly with fruit flavors. H e n c e

a n y fruit b r a n d y c a n be used to a d v a n t a g e in com­
bination w i t h r u m as a cocktail base. T h i s is especially
true of p e a c h a n d apricot brandies.

CUBAN APRICOT • CUBAN PEACH

1 part Sugar Syrup

2 parts L i m e J u i c e
4 parts W h i t e C u b a n R u m
4 parts A p r i c o t B r a n d y or P e a c h B r a n d y

S h a k e w i t h finely crushed ice. A s a pleasing decoration

for this drink, d i p a small sprig or a fair-sized leaf of

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 mint in one of the liquors, then in p o w d e r e d sugar,
a n d float this frosted mint on the top of each drink.

S o m e w h a t closely allied to the S n o w White, but omit­

ting the e g g white, is the

KNICKERBOCKER

1 p a r t P i n e a p p l e & R a s p b e r r y Syrups, half & half

2 parts L e m o n & O r a n g e J u i c e , half & half
8 parts R u m

S h a k e w i t h finely crushed ice.

T h e dozen or so recipes set forth above should give

you an i d e a of w h a t others h a v e done w i t h cocktails
based on the R u m S o u r . L i k e gin, r u m c a n be blended
w i t h all m a n n e r of liqueurs, both aromatic a n d non-
aromatic, a n d w i t h a n y a n d all fruit flavors. T h e n u m ­
ber of different r u m cocktails you c a n turn out is
limited only by y o u r ingenuity a n d y o u r supply of
fruit syrups a n d liqueurs. A s I h a v e pointed out be­
fore, the corner-drugstore soda fountain can supply
you w i t h fruit syrups a n d y o u r favorite p a c k a g e store
w i t h the liqueurs. A n d one of the m i n o r blessings of
cocktail m i x i n g is that the domestic brands of li­
queurs, w h i c h I w o u l d not r e c o m m e n d as after-dinner
cordials, are satisfactory for use in cocktails.
A s a g r a n d finale to cocktails based on the R u m
Sour, I give y o u one of m y favorites w h i c h I h a v e
n a m e d after m y favorite c o m m u n i t y :

LARCHMONT

1/2 p a r t S u g a r S y r u p
2 parts L i m e J u i c e
2 parts G r a n d M a r n i e r
6 parts W h i t e C u b a n R u m

S h a k e vigorously w i t h crushed or cracked ice a n d

strain into chilled a n d frosted cocktail glasses. A twist
of orange peel m a y be d r o p p e d into each drink for
decoration if desired.

134
 After I h a d invented the L a r c h m o n t I discovered that
Colonel G . S e l m e r F o u g n e r h a d devised a somewhat
similar cocktail consisting of I part G r a n d M a r n i e r ,
2 parts rum, a n d just a dash of lime juice w h i c h , in
honor of his wife, he h a d n a m e d T H E L I T T L E O N E .
C o m p a r e also the Appendicitis de L u x e , p a g e 1 2 4 ,
a n d the R e d L i o n , p a g e 1 2 7 .
T h e following cocktail I a m including at the in­
sistence of some twenty friends to w h o m I served it
one N e w Y e a r ' s E v e . S e v e r a l of them enthusiastically
voted it b y f a r the best cocktail they h a d e v e r tasted.
It illustrates h o w easy it is to "roll y o u r o w n " w i t h
w h a t e v e r materials are at h a n d . I h a d originally in­
tended to serve the L a r c h m o n t , but I decided to v a r y
the a b o v e recipe s o m e w h a t because I h a d just ob­
tained a b o x of Chinese preserved ginger, a delicacy
practically unobtainable during the w a r years. N o w
a bit of preserved ginger on a spear is delicious in
a r u m cocktail, but the flavor blends particularly w e l l
w i t h J a m a i c a r u m . I therefore decided to a d d a dash
of J a m a i c a r u m to the cocktail. F a l e r n u m has a slight
ginger flavor also, so I decided to use f a l e r n u m in
p l a c e of s u g a r syrup. T h i s combination seemed to fit
better w i t h a s o m e w h a t heavier-bodied r u m t h a n
straight C u b a n white label, a n d I chanced to h a v e
o n h a n d partly used bottles of several "intermediate"
rums. T h e s e , therefore, w e n t into the mixture. F o l ­
l o w i n g is the final result w h i c h , in honor of the n e w
y e a r then being ushered in, I n a m e d the

FORTY-SEVEN

1 part Falernum
1 part Grand Marnier
4 parts L i m e J u i c e
1 part J a m a i c a R u m
1 part Haitian R u m
2 parts B a r b a d o s R u m
1 part White C u b a n R u m
3 parts G o l d L a b e l C u b a n R u m

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 S h a k e vigorously w i t h cracked ice a n d strain into
chilled cocktail glasses. D e c o r a t e w i t h a bit of pre­
served g i n g e r on a toothpick or spear.

Please note that there is n o special merit in the use

of five different rums in this drink. T h e cocktail w o u l d
b e just as good a n d w o u l d taste only slightly different
if m a d e with one p a r t J a m a i c a r u m a n d about six to
seven parts C u b a n gold label. T h e sole reason for
using five different types instead of two w a s that
several partly used bottles w e r e at h a n d . K n o w i n g that
they w o u l d blend satisfactorily, I used them instead of
opening fresh bottles of C u b a n gold label.

Cocktails Based on the Whisky Sour

W h e n w e l e a v e gin a n d r u m a n d take u p whiskies
a n d brandies w e immediately reduce drastically the
limit on the n u m b e r of palatable blends in w h i c h w e
c a n indulge. G i n a n d r u m (at least the white label
C u b a n r u m ) h a v e b l a n d flavors that " m a r r y " w i t h
other flavors to p r o d u c e a n entirely new taste that
is a perfect blend of the two. Whisky, o n the other
h a n d (and, to a s o m e w h a t lesser degree, b r a n d y ) is
a grouchy old bachelor that stubbornly insists on
maintaining its o w n independence a n d is seldom to
b e found in a m a r r y i n g m o o d . Its flavor refuses to be
subdued. W h e n combined w i t h some other liquor the
result will frequently be two distinct flavors, possibly
antagonistic to one another, instead of a n e w a n d
pleasing fragrance that is merely subtly suggestive of
the two original essences.
Whisky does combine quite well w i t h the a r o m a t i c
liqueurs such as Benedictine a n d C h a r t r e u s e . I t also
blends well w i t h orange-flavored liqueurs—curaçao,
G r a n d M a r n i e r , a n d m a n d a r i n e . T h a t it c a n be pleas­
ingly combined with at least some of the other fruit
flavors is p r o v e d by the fact that Southern C o m f o r t —
a peach-flavored bourbon—is such a magnificent a n d
deservedly p o p u l a r liquor. Nevertheless, w h e n y o u
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 seek to combine whisky with fruit syrups or liqueurs,
proceed with caution. Y o u c a n substitute almost any
kind of fruit syrup or liqueur for the sugar syrup in
a gin or r u m cocktail with supreme confidence that
the m i x t u r e will be smooth a n d pleasing. Y o u just
can't d o that w i t h either whisky or brandy. If you
w a n t to produce some new m i x t u r e w i t h one of these
liquors as a base, try out a small quantity for yourself
first. D o n ' t m i x u p a shakerful a n d use y o u r guests as
guinea pigs. B o u r b o n blends with other flavors, partic­
ularly non-aromatic flavors, better t h a n rye, a n d co­
g n a c blends better than a p p l e brandy. Also, lemon
j u i c e is usually preferable to lime j u i c e in m a k i n g
whisky cocktails. I n the following cocktails, unless
otherwise specified, " w h i s k y " means either rye or
bourbon, but preferably the latter.

BOURBON

1 part Benedictine
1 part Curaçcao
2 parts L e m o n J u i c e
6 parts B o u r b o n
1 dash A n g o s t u r a to each drink

S h a k e w i t h cracked ice.
N o t e that in the a b o v e recipe I h a v e v a r i e d materially
from the 1-2-8 formula. Whisky fights so strongly for
s u p r e m a c y of flavor in any drink that, in order to
bring out the flavor of other ingredients to a n y a p ­
preciable degree, it m a y frequently be necessary to
cut d o w n o n the a m o u n t of whisky a n d increase the
a m o u n t of the other liquors. G . S e l m e r F o u g n e r , in
his famous Along the Wine Trail series, recommends
a bourbon cocktail consisting of I part lemon juice,
I part bourbon, a n d 2 parts Benedictine, w i t h dashes
only of curaçao a n d Angostura. T h i s , h o w e v e r , re­
sults in a Benedictine, rather t h a n a bourbon, cock­
tail a n d contains m u c h too m u c h of the syrupy cor­
dial for a truly d r y aperitif.
If w e substitute grenadine for s u g a r in the Whisky

137
 S o u r a n d a d d a bit of orange j u i c e , the result is the
famous

WARD EIGHT
1 part Grenadine
2 parts Lemon Juice
1 part Orange Juice
8 parts Whisky

S h a k e w i t h c r a c k e d ice.
T h e W a r d E i g h t is also frequently served in a tall glass
w i t h finely crushed ice and a small quantity of car­
bonated water. W h e n thus served it is decorated w i t h
fruits a n d served with straws. Of course it is then no
longer a cocktail.
I f w e substitute lime for the lemon j u i c e a n d use.
a twist of orange peel in place of the o r a n g e j u i c e , w e
h a v e the

NEW YORKER

1 part Grenadine
2 parts L i m e J u i c e
8 parts Whisky

S h a k e w i t h cracked ice. D r o p a twist of o r a n g e peel

into e a c h glass. A spoonful of claret m a y be floated
o n top if desired.
A n o t h e r drink sometimes called the N e w Y o r k e r
consists of a M e d i u m M a n h a t t a n w i t h a few dashes
of curaçao a n d a twist of orange peel.

T h e N e w Y o r k e r also is sometimes served as a tall

drink with carbonated w a t e r a n d crushed ice like the
W a r d E i g h t . W h e n thus served, it is sometimes m a d e
w i t h sugar syrup instead of grenadine and, after it is
strained into a glass of crushed ice a n d the c h a r g e d
w a t e r has been a d d e d a n d the drink stirred slightly,
a small a m o u n t of claret w i n e is floated on the top.
S o m e recipes for drinks of the Whisky S o u r type
omit the lemon or lime j u i c e altogether. S u c h a cock­
tail is the

138
MILLIONAIRE

1 part G r e n a d i n e or R a s p b e r r y S y r u p
2 parts Curaçao
8 parts Whisky
1 Egg W h i t e to each 2 drinks

S h a k e the liqueurs a n d egg white thoroughly with

c r a c k e d ice first, then a d d the whisky in 2 or 3 in­
stallments, shaking after each addition.

W h i l e the above recipe produces a v e r y satisfactory

drink, in m y opinion it is i m p r o v e d by the addition
of a small quantity of lemon juice.
T w o or three dashes of absinthe for e a c h drink
convert this cocktail into the M I L L I O N A I R E R O Y A L .
A t some bars a drink is served u n d e r the n a m e of
" M i l l i o n a i r e " w h i c h consists of lime j u i c e , sloe gin,
a n d apricot brandy, w i t h a few dashes of J a m a i c a
r u m . Since the sloe gin, w h i c h is a liqueur, predomi­
nates in this drink, I d o not r e g a r d it as a true cocktail.
A cocktail w h i c h is nothing but a p l a i n Whisky
S o u r w i t h the addition of o r a n g e bitters is the

BUSTER BROWN

1 part Sugar Syrup

2 parts L e m o n J u i c e
8 parts Whisky
2 dashes O r a n g e Bitters to e a c h drink

S h a k e or stir with cracked ice. Stirring will produce

a clearer drink, but w h e n e v e r clarity is sought the
lemon j u i c e should be strained through cloth.

A drink in w h i c h c u r a ç a o only is substituted for sugar

syrup is the

CURAÇAO

2 parts C u r a ç a o
1 part L e m o n J u i c e
6 parts Whisky

139
 S h a k e or stir w i t h cracked ice. D r o p a twist of lemon
peel into e a c h drink.

N o t e that in the C u r a ç a o the proportions of sweet a n d

sour h a v e been reversed. T h i s is in order to bring out
the flavor of the c u r a ç a o . S o m e recipe books even
r e c o m m e n d equal parts of whisky a n d c u r a ç a o , but
here a g a i n w e enter the r e a l m of drinks h e a v y in
s u g a r and, therefore, not properly apéritif cocktails.
M a n y liqueurs such as c u r a ç a o , a n d m o r e particularly
crème de m e n t h e a n d G r a n d M a r n i e r , h a v e such a
strong, biting flavor that they d o not taste sweet. T h e y
m a y be used in substantial quantity in a cocktail a n d
the drink m a y still taste reasonably dry. T h e sugar is
still there, h o w e v e r , a n d the effect on the appetite is
the same whether the drink tastes sweet o r not.
A pleasing cocktail in which both c u r a ç a o and
crème de m e n t h e are used is the

DIXIE

2 parts C u r a ç a o
I part Crème de Menthe
I part L e m o n J u i c e
6 parts W h i s k y « « «
I dash A n g o s t u r a to each drink

S h a k e or stir with cracked ice.

A very good whisky cocktail using Benedictine in

place of s u g a r is the

FRISCO

2 parts Benedictine
I part L e m o n J u i c e
6 parts Whisky

S h a k e or stir with cracked ice. I n some recipes the

lemon j u i c e is omitted.

B y using fresh pineapple j u i c e o u r Whisky S o u r be-

comes a
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PINEAPPLE BLOSSOM

I part Sugar Syrup

I part L e m o n Juice
2 parts P i n e a p p l e J u i c e
6 parts Whisky
S h a k e w i t h cracked ice. If pineapple j u i c e is not
available, substitute 2 parts pineapple syrup for the
sugar syrup a n d pineapple juice.
C o m p a r e the J a c k in the B o x , page 1 4 7 . S e e also
the Pineapple Blossom m a d e with gin, p a g e 2 4 5 .

A n d here is one using maraschino in place of sugar

syrup:

TENNESSEE
2 parts M a r a s c h i n o
I part L e m o n Juice
6 parts Whisky

S h a k e with c r a c k e d ice.

I do not, b y any means, r e c o m m e n d all of the a b o v e

cocktails of the Whisky S o u r type. M y o w n favorite
whisky cocktails are the O l d - F a s h i o n e d a n d the plain
Whisky Sour. F o r fancy blends w i t h liqueurs give m e
gin or r u m cocktails. H o w e v e r , the ten variations of
the Whisky S o u r a b o v e listed should be sufficient to
guide y o u in "rolling y o u r o w n " if you w a n t to p l a y
a r o u n d w i t h this type of drink.

Cocktails Based on the Brandy Sour

B y n o w y o u ought to be pretty m u c h able to t u r n out
y o u r o w n Sour-type cocktails blindfolded, in the
dark, w i t h y o u r eyes shut, a n d w i t h y o u r hands tied
behind y o u r back. H o w e v e r , since w e started out w i t h
basic cocktails h a v i n g five different liquors as their
base—gin, r u m , whisky, brandy, a n d a p p l e j a c k — w e
will " r o l l " at least a few Sour-type drinks w i t h e a c h
of these liquors.

141
 B r a n d y is a bit easier to combine w i t h other liquors
than is whisky, a l t h o u g h not so easy as either gin or
rum. In general, it m a y be said that if y o u c a n m a k e a
certain drink w i t h a whisky base y o u c a n m a k e the
same drink w i t h a b r a n d y base. T h e taste, of course,
will be different, but I k n o w of no ingredients that c a n
be combined w i t h whisky that cannot be combined at
least equally well w i t h brandy.
I n speaking of " b r a n d y " I refer to grape b r a n d y
and, specifically, to either c o g n a c or a r m a g n a c . O t h e r
fruit b r a n d i e s — a p p l e , apricot, peach, cherry, black­
berry, raspberry, etc.—are, of course, something else.
Delicious drinks of the S o u r type c a n be m a d e w i t h
them also, but, as a usual thing, they combine w i t h
other flavors i n a m a n n e r quite different from the
g r a p e brandies. A h e a v y g r a p e brandy, such as the
Spanish, Portuguese, G r e e k , or S o u t h A f r i c a n , also
produces a result differing w i d e l y from that of the
cognac a n d a r m a g n a c brandies.
T h e r e a r e at least six or eight different cocktails
put out b y different bars u n d e r the n a m e of the
B r a n d y C o c k t a i l . S o m e consist of nothing but b r a n d y
a n d bitters, others contain a spot of sugar, still others
contain vermouth, or some liqueur, or e v e n absinthe.
H e r e is one that is merely the Curaçao (see p a g e 1 3 9 )
w i t h b r a n d y substituted for the whisky, plus a dash of
bitters:

BRANDY COCKTAIL

2 parts Curaçao
1 part L e m o n Juice
8 parts B r a n d y
1 dash A n g o s t u r a to e a c h drink

S h a k e or stir w i t h cracked ice. A twist of lemon o v e r

e a c h glass.
F o r an aromatic-type b r a n d y cocktail, see p a g e 1 6 9 .

A s o m e w h a t novel variation of this drink in that it is

one of the very few cocktails using port w i n e is the

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BETSY ROSS

1 part Curaçao
2 parts Port
6 parts B r a n d y (preferably F u n d a d o r )
1 dash A n g o s t u r a to each drink

Stir with large cubes of ice. A twist of lemon o v e r

e a c h glass.

A n o t h e r w e l l - k n o w n cocktail using port w i n e is the

Coffee. T h e r e are probably as m a n y different recipes
for the Coffee C o c k t a i l as there are different brands
of coffee on the market. O n e of these recipes actually
calls for coffee. T h a t , h o w e v e r , is a f o r m u l a that is
little k n o w n a n d seldom used. F o l l o w i n g is the type
of recipe usually f o u n d :

COFFEE

1 part Sugar Syrup

4 parts Port
4 parts B r a n d y
1 W h o l e E g g to e a c h 4 drinks

S h a k e w i t h cracked ice. G r a t e nutmeg over top if

desired.

N e i t h e r the Betsy R o s s nor the Coffee Cocktail is a

true Sour, of course. Also, since port—even the driest
of the ports—is a r a t h e r sweet dessert w i n e a n d not
of the apéritif type, neither of these drinks—and
particularly the Coffee C o c k t a i l — c a n be r e g a r d e d as
a true apéritif cocktail.
A n o t h e r of the better-known b r a n d y drinks is the
S T I N G E R . T h e usual recipe for this drink calls for
b r a n d y a n d white crème d e m e n t h e in equal parts.
If green crème de m e n t h e is used it is k n o w n as the
E M E R A L D . T h e E m e r a l d w i t h a dash of red p e p p e r
added is called the D E V I L . W h e r e the half-and-half
formula is used the Stinger, like the Coffee, is not a
true cocktail. I t can, h o w e v e r , easily be transformed

143
 into a dry a n d very palatable cocktail similar to the
M i a m i (see p a g e 1 3 2 ) , except that b r a n d y is used
i n p l a c e of r u m .

DRY STINGER

1 part L i m e Juice
2 parts White C r è m e de M e n t h e
6 parts B r a n d y

S h a k e w i t h finely crushed ice and strain into chilled

a n d frosted glasses.

A n excellent v a r i a n t of the B r a n d y S o u r , using a

splendid South A f r i c a n liqueur, is the

SUNDOWNER

1 part Lemon Juice

1 part Orange Juice
2 parts V a n der H u m
6 parts Brandy

Shake with cracked ice. The original recipe calls for

Cape of Good Hope (South African) brandy to
match the Cape of Good Hope Van der Hum. A good
cognac or armagnac will do, however.
See the Sunrise a n d the Sunshine, p a g e 2 5 7 .

T w o cocktails that combine b r a n d y w i t h r u m are the

Bolero (see p a g e 1 3 3 ) a n d B e t w e e n the Sheets. G o l d
label r u m is rather better i n combination w i t h b r a n d y
than is white label.

BETWEEN T H E SHEETS

1 p a r t C o i n t r e a u or T r i p l e S e c
2 parts L i m e J u i c e
3 parts B r a n d y
3 parts C u b a n G o l d L a b e l R u m

S h a k e w i t h crushed ice. A twist of l e m o n over e a c h

glass.

144
 This drink is sometimes made with brandy only and
sometimes with rum and gin. Also lemon is some­
times used in place of lime. The above is, in my opin­
ion, the best of the many recipes I have seen.

Still another b r a n d y - a n d - r u m combination, but this

time w i t h the r u m predominating, is called the

NATURAL

1 part Grenadine
1 part O r g e a t
2 parts L e m o n
3 parts B r a n d y
5 parts C u b a n G o l d L a b e l R u m

S h a k e w i t h crushed ice.

A variation of the Side C a r in w h i c h C h a r t r e u s e is

used w i t h the C o i n t r e a u is called the

KNIGHT

1 part C o i n t r e a u & Chartreuse, half & half

2 parts L e m o n J u i c e
8 parts B r a n d y

S h a k e with cracked ice.

Still another variation uses strawberry syrup and

m a r a s c h i n o for the sweetening a g e n t :

HARMONY

1 part S t r a w b e r r y S y r u p & M a r a s c h i n o , half & half

2 parts L e m o n J u i c e
8 parts B r a n d y

S h a k e with cracked ice.

A n o t h e r cocktail called the H a r m o n y consists of
1 part F o r b i d d e n F r u i t , 2 parts lemon j u i c e , 2 parts
gold label r u m , 4 parts gin, with a dash of grenadine
to e a c h drink.

145
 I n both the K n i g h t a n d the H a r m o n y , the lemon
j u i c e c a n be omitted, the liqueurs slightly increased,
a n d a f e w dashes of o r a n g e bitters to each cocktail
used in p l a c e of the l e m o n juice.

Cocktails Based on the Applejack Sour

W e h a v e seen h o w honey, fruit syrups, a n d liqueurs
c a n be substituted for plain sugar in Sour-type cock­
tails w i t h a wholly new cocktail as a result. H e r e is
one in w h i c h m a p l e syrup is substituted. D o n ' t shy
a w a y from it. I t is not half bad.

APPLEJACK RABBIT

I part M a p l e Syrup
I part L e m o n Juice
I part Orange Juice
6 parts A p p l e Brandy

S h a k e w i t h c r a c k e d ice.
M a p l e sugar m a y be used in place of m a p l e syrup
but has the same d i s a d v a n t a g e that ordinary dry
sugar has as c o m p a r e d w i t h a sugar syrup.
T h i s drink is also sometimes, for no reason at all,
called the A P P L E J A C K D Y N A M I T E . T h e s a m e cock­
tail m a d e w i t h a gin base plus a dash of A n g o s t u r a is
called the O L D V E R M O N T .

If y o u like the J a c k R a b b i t , try substituting m a p l e

syrup for plain sugar syrup in Sours m a d e w i t h other
liquor bases.
T h e R o y a l S m i l e is substantially the same cocktail
as the Pink L a d y ( p a g e 1 2 8 ) but without the egg
white.

ROYAL SMILE

1 part Grenadine
2 parts Lemon Juice
4 parts Gin
4 parts Apple Brandy
146
 S h a k e w i t h cracked ice. T h e relative proportions of
gin a n d applejack c a n be v a r i e d to suit the individual
taste. S o m e recipes call for the addition of I egg white
to e a c h 2 drinks.

A n o t h e r A p p l e j a c k cocktail that, except for the liquor

base, resembles the D a i q u i r i de L u x e is the

SUPREME
1 part Orgeat
2 parts L e m o n or L i m e J u i c e
8 parts Apple Brandy
1 dash G r e n a d i n e to e a c h drink

S h a k e w e l l w i t h c r a c k e d ice.

H e r e is a cocktail which, except for the liquor base,

resembles the P i n e a p p l e Blossom, p a g e 2 4 5 :

JACK I N T H E B O X
1 part Sugar Syrup
1 part L e m o n or L i m e J u i c e
2 parts Pineapple J u i c e
6 parts Apple Brandy
1 dash A n g o s t u r a to e a c h drink

S h a k e w i t h c r a c k e d ice. If fresh, unsweetened pine­

a p p l e j u i c e is used, either this cocktail or the Pine­
a p p l e Blossom c a n be m a d e m i l d e r by increasing the
quantity of pineapple j u i c e without a n y serious sacri­
fice of dryness.

T h e J a c k in the B o x is also sometimes called the

J E R S E Y C I T Y . Instead of using lemon j u i c e a strip of
lemon peel m a y be twisted over each glass.
I n the M i l l i o n a i r e ( p a g e 1 3 9 ) w e found a combina­
tion of grenadine a n d curaçao. H e r e is one w h i c h
combines grenadine a n d C h a r t r e u s e :

DEAUVILLE
1 part G r e n a d i n e or R a s p b e r r y S y r u p
1 part C h a r t r e u s e

147
 8 parts A p p l e B r a n d y
1 teaspoonful L e m o n J u i c e to each drink
S h a k e w i t h c r a c k e d ice.
A n d here is one that combines curaçao a n d sugar
syrup as sweetening a g e n t s :

COUNTRY GENTLEMAN
1 part S u g a r Syrup
2 parts Curaçao
2 parts L e m o n J u i c e
8 parts A p p l e B r a n d y

S h a k e w i t h c r a c k e d ice.

N o t e that the C o u n t r y G e n t l e m a n merely adds the

curaçao to a plain A p p l e j a c k S o u r without omitting
the sugar. W i t h a base liquor as pungent as apple­
j a c k a n d w i t h a liqueur as sharp as curaçao (or w i t h
any aromatic liqueur such as Benedictine or C h a r ­
t r e u s e ) , such addition m a y be possible within cer­
tain limits without rendering the cocktail too sickish-
sweet. W i t h a b l a n d liquor, such as gin or white label
r u m , a n d w i t h a h e a v y fruit liqueur such as p e a c h or
apricot, this w o u l d be w h o l l y impossible.

T h e H o n e y m o o n combines curaçao a n d B e n e d i c ­
tine. Benedictine, being an aromatic liqueur, blends
particularly well w i t h whisky a n d a p p l e brandy.

HONEYMOON
1 p a r t C u r a ç a o & Benedictine, half & half
2 parts L i m e J u i c e
8 parts A p p l e j a c k

S h a k e w i t h crushed ice.
T h i s drink is also sometimes called the F A R M E R ' S
DAUGHTER.
A p p l e j a c k can, of course, be combined with other
spirituous liquors, as has already been seen. O n e
such cocktail is the D e p t h B o m b , in w h i c h it is com­
bined w i t h c o g n a c . W h o e v e r n a m e d this drink a p -
148
 parently thought it w a s peculiarly potent, but don't
let the n a m e deceive you. I t w o u l d be exactly as
potent—no more a n d no less—if it w e r e m a d e w i t h
either liquor alone.

DEPTH BOMB
1 part Grenadine
2 parts Lemon Juice
4 parts Cognac
4 parts Apple Brandy

S h a k e w i t h cracked ice.

I h a v e already pointed out that the principal reason

that a p p l e b r a n d y does not enjoy greater popularity
is the fact that it is practically impossible to find a n y
on the m a r k e t that has been sufficiently aged to
develop that mild, bland, delicious taste w h i c h char­
acterizes all well-matured liquors. If you are for­
tunate enough to possess a n y w e l l - m a d e a p p l e j a c k
that has been aged in the w o o d for even five or six
years, b u t still better eight or ten, y o u will be reason­
ably safe in substituting it for cognac in practically
a n y recipe calling for brandy. T h e flavor of the drink
will be different, but it will be equally delightful. Y o u
c a n also use it as a substitute in most whisky drinks.

Aromatic Cocktails
W h e r e the Sour-type cocktail employs citrus juice a n d
sugar or some other sweetening agent as a modifier of
the liquor base, the aromatic type employs some a r o ­
matic agent such as one of the various bitters ( A n ­
gostura, P e y c h a u d , orange, U n i c u m , e t c . ) , o r one of
the several aromatic wines ( F r e n c h or I t a l i a n v e r ­
mouth, D u b o n n e t , B y r r h , e t c . ) , or both. D r y sherry
is sometimes substituted for a n aromatic w i n e . T h e
aromatics m a y be used either alone or in conjunction
with sugar or some other sweetening agent. Also, at
times the modifier m a y be a n aromatic liqueur such
as Benedictine or Chartreuse, or a citrus liqueur such

149
 as curaçao or G r a n d M a r n i e r , w h i c h , while not truly
aromatic, has a somewhat similar effect as a modifier.
A s has already been pointed out, there are m a n y
more Sour-type cocktails than aromatic-type. T h i s is
because a n y fruit j u i c e or liqueur c a n be blended w i t h
the citrus juices, but extreme caution must be ob-
served in trying to blend them w i t h aromatics. R e -
m e m b e r that in y o u r aromatic wines you will find
some thirty to forty different roots, leaves, seeds,
peels, etc., a n d that these m a y include such items as
coriander, w o r m w o o d , m a r j o r a m , c a m o m i l e , aloes,
bitter orange, a n d even quinine. T h e aromatic w i n e
will blend w i t h an aromatic liqueur because both are
aromatic. Perhaps it will blend w i t h a plain-flavored
liqueur such as apricot, maraschino, or crème de
cacao, but then a g a i n perhaps it will not. A l s o re-
m e m b e r that not only must the liqueur a n d the a r o -
m a t i c w i n e blend, but the combination must blend
w i t h the base liquor. A certain combination m a y
blend satisfactorily w i t h r u m but not w i t h whisky or
vice versa.
I n trying out such combinations the safest method
is to m i x a small quantity of the aromatic w i n e a n d
the liqueur a n d taste the mixture. If this is reasonably
palatable, then a d d a small quantity of the liquor base
a n d taste again. If this m i x t u r e is not definitely un-
palatable yet is not wholly satisfactory, try v a r y i n g
the quantities of the three types of ingredients. Y o u
might also try a d d i n g a small quantity of sugar syrup,
or a dash of bitters. O r then, again, you might throw
the whole mess in the sink a n d go back to a good old
M a r t i n i , D a i q u i r i , or O l d - F a s h i o n e d . M u c h will de-
pend on your patience a n d h o w anxious you are to
bring forth a n e w drink.

Gin Cocktails of the Aromatic Type

T h e outstanding aromatic-type cocktails are m a d e by
simply a d d i n g a few dashes of bitters to each drink
of base liquor and chilling in an O l d - F a s h i o n e d glass.

150
 T h e bitters should be of the aromatic t y p e — A n g o s -
tura, B o o n e k a m p , P e y c h a u d , U n i c u m , etc.—rather
than non-aromatic flavoring bitters such as orange,
lemon, or lime. Sometimes a small quantity of sugar
syrup is used a n d sometimes a few dashes of a n aro-
matic liqueur. Without any sweetening agent w h a t -
soever the drink is likely to h a v e too strong a taste
of the base liquor for most palates, especially those
of the ladies. Y o u r real two-fisted drinker, however,
m a y prefer this a n d m a y even scoff at the sweetening
as producing a sissified drink. Chacun à son goût.
Cocktails m a d e b y merely a d d i n g bitters to the base
liquor are usually k n o w n by the n a m e of the liquor
itself. I n the case of the G i n Cocktail, it is also
sometimes called (particularly in E n g l a n d ) G i n ' n '
Bitters. H e r e it i s :

G I N COCKTAIL • GIN ' N ' B I T T E R S Put large cubes

of cracked ice in a n O l d - F a s h i o n e d glass. P o u r in
e n o u g h House of L o r d s or Ancient Bottle gin to fill
2
within 3/8" of the top. A d d A n g o s t u r a or other a r o -
m a t i c bitters to taste (about 3 to 5 d a s h e s ) . Stir a n d
serve with short stir rod or spoon. T w i s t a strip of
lemon peel o v e r drink a n d drop peel in the glass. A
few dashes of curaçao m a y be added if desired.
A n o t h e r method of m a k i n g this drink is to rinse the
glass with bitters, shake out the excess, a n d then fill
the glass with iced gin.

T h e G i n Cocktail is also sometimes served in a n

ordinary cocktail glass, in w h i c h case it is stirred in
a b a r blass or M a r t i n i pitcher a n d then strained into
the glass.
A n o t h e r good old British standby, especially in h e r
F a r Eastern possessions, is the G i n Pahit (pronounced
p a h - e e t ' ) , w h i c h is nothing but a G i n C o c k t a i l , some-
times with the addition of absinthe a n d sometimes
without it.
2
If Angostura bitters are used, this cocktail is frequently re-
ferred to as PINK GIN and, if orange bitters are used, as
YELLOW GIN.

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GIN PAHIT

H o u s e of L o r d s or A n c i e n t Bottle G i n
3 dashes A n g o s t u r a to each drink
2 dashes Absinthe to e a c h drink

Stir w i t h large cubes of ice. A d d a twist of lemon to

e a c h drink. If desired, a spoonful of curaçao or C h a r ­
treuse m a y be floated on top of each drink.

G I N ' N ' S I N Straight gin w i t h 1 teaspoonful lemon

juice, 1 teaspoonful orange j u i c e , a n d a dash of gren­
adine to e a c h drink.
T h i s , of course, is a S o u r - rather t h a n a n a r o m a t i c -
type cocktail. I t is shown here merely to bring together
all the various " g i n - a n d " drinks.

W h i l e on the subject of His B r i t a n n i c M a j e s t y ' s gin

drinks, mention m a y be m a d e of t w o others that h a v e
been celebrated in song a n d story. O n e — G i n 'n' I t —
is nothing but a Sweet M a r t i n i , a n d the other—
G i n 'n' T o n i c — i s not a cocktail but a long, cooling
drink. I t is referred to here, h o w e v e r , in order to
keep it w i t h its compatriots under the U n i o n J a c k .

GIN ' N ' IT

1 part Italian Vermouth

3 parts G i n
Stir a n d serve in cocktail glass or m i x in O l d - F a s h ­
ioned glass, following directions for G i n 'n' Bitters.
I n E u r o p e the proportions used are half a n d half
a n d the drink is not iced.

G I N 'N' T O N I C See u n d e r T a l l Drinks, p a g e 2 8 1 .

T h e r e is another m e m b e r of the " g i n - a n d " family

which has recently attained a certain a m o u n t of
popularity with real gin lovers a n d that is

152
GIN ' N ' ROCKS P o u r straight gin o v e r ice cubes in
a n O l d - F a s h i o n e d glass. A d d a twist of lemon if
desired, stir, a n d serve.
T h i s , of course, is merely straight gin, iced, and,
since the drink contains no modifying agent (partic­
ularly if the twist of lemon is o m i t t e d ) , it does not
strictly conform to our definition of a cocktail. N e v e r ­
theless, cocktail or no cocktail, it does meet the re-
quirements ( p a g e 3) of a pre-prandial apéritif a n d ,
if m a d e w i t h a mellow yellow gin, it is, at least in the
writer's opinion, infinitely superior to the usual wishy-
w a s h y b a r M a r t i n i . I t must be remembered that, un­
like whisky, rum, a n d the various g r a p e a n d other
fruit brandies, gin is, itself, a highly a r o m a t i c liquor.
T h e addition of further aromatics to produce a cock­
tail is therefore, to some extent, like carrying coals
to N e w c a s t l e . T h e r e is substantial merit in the claim
of the H o u s e of S e a g r a m that their A n c i e n t Bottle
gin "is almost a M a r t i n i in itself."

T h e perfect aromatic gin cocktail, of course, is the

M a r t i n i , p a g e 1 0 0 . R e f e r e n c e w a s m a d e in discussing
the M a r t i n i to the fact that the drink might be oc­
casionally v a r i e d by the addition of absinthe or C h a r ­
treuse or curaçao. T h e M e d i u m M a r t i n i (or so-called
" P e r f e c t " ) w i t h a dash of absinthe is called the

BALD HEAD
1 part French Vermouth
1 part Italian Vermouth
4 parts Gin
1 or 2 dashes Absinthe to e a c h drink

Stir w i t h large cubes of ice. T w i s t lemon peel over

the drink. D e c o r a t e with a stuffed olive.

Note that the B a l d H e a d is nothing but a M e d i u m

M a r t i n i w i t h a dash of absinthe.
T h e same cocktail with anisette in place of absinthe
a n d w i t h a small a m o u n t of fruit juices is k n o w n as
the

153
BEAUX ARTS

1 part French Vermouth

1 part I t a l i a n V e r m o u t h
1 part O r a n g e & Pineapple J u i c e , half & half
6 parts G i n
1 dash Anisette to each drink

Since the fruit juices will prevent a clear drink in

a n y event, this cocktail m a y be shaken.
A n o t h e r version of this drink calls for grapefruit
j u i c e instead of orange a n d p i n e a p p l e a n d for apple-
j a c k instead of gin.

J u s t to illustrate h o w simple it is to "roll y o u r o w n "

a n d h o w slight a v a r i a t i o n of a standard f o r m u l a
will produce a " n e w " a n d different cocktail, here is
the essence of a dozen or m o r e cocktails taken at
r a n d o m from various recipe books a n d all based on the
M a r t i n i . Different recipe books will set forth v a r y i n g
proportions of the several ingredients, but, in sub-
stance, this is w h a t these cocktails are. Y o u c a n try
them a n d v a r y the proportions, as previously indi-
cated, to suit y o u r own taste.

ALLIES D r y M a r t i n i with 2 dashes k ü m m e l to e a c h

drink. Stir.

D E E P S E A D r y M a r t i n i with a dash of anisette to each

drink. Stir.

G L O O M CHASER • G L O O M R A I S E R Dry Martini

with 2 dashes absinthe a n d 2 dashes grenadine to e a c h
drink. Stir.
C o m p a r e the International, p a g e 1 0 3 .
A n o t h e r version of the G l o o m C h a s e r consists of
a D a i q u i r i w i t h c u r a ç a o substituted for the sugar.

PARISIAN D r y M a r t i n i w i t h 2 or 3 dashes c r è m e d e
cassis to each drink. Stir.

154
 A n o t h e r version of the Parisian consists of i p a r t
lime j u i c e to 3 or 4 parts Dubonnet. Stir.

HONG KONG D r y M a r t i n i w i t h 1 spoon sugar syrup,

1 spoon lime j u i c e , a n d 1 dash A n g o s t u r a bitters to
e a c h drink. Stir.

YALE G i n C o c k t a i l with 1 dash orange bitters and

1 dash absinthe to each drink. Stir.

YALE FENCE

1 part Italian Vermouth

1 part Applejack
1 part G i n

Stir. A twist of lemon over each drink.

COOPERSTOWN M e d i u m M a r t i n i w i t h a sprig of mint

to each drink bruised a n d stirred w i t h the cocktail.
A twist of lemon o v e r each drink.

BOOMERANG M e d i u m M a r t i n i w i t h a dash of A n ­
gostura a n d 2 dashes maraschino to each drink. Stir.
A twist of lemon o v e r each drink.

L A M B S ' CLUB M e d i u m M a r t i n i with 2 or 3 dashes

Benedictine to e a c h drink. Stir. A twist of lemon o v e r
e a c h drink.

PLAZA M e d i u m M a r t i n i with 1 teaspoonful pineapple

j u i c e to e a c h drink. S h a k e .

AMBER DREAM Sweet M a r t i n i w i t h 1 dash orange

bitters a n d 3 or 4 dashes C h a r t r e u s e to each drink.
Shake.
Also called the B I J O U a n d the G O L D E N G L O W .

155
GREENBRIER S w e e t M a r t i n i w i t h a sprig of mint to
each drink. P r e p a r e like the Cooperstown, a b o v e .

BARRY S w e e t M a n h a t t a n with a dash of white crème

de m e n t h e to each drink. Stir.

LONE T R E E S w e e t M a r t i n i with 1 dash lemon juice to

each drink. S h a k e .

MAXIM S w e e t M a r t i n i w i t h 1 to 2 dashes crème de

c a c a o to e a c h drink. S h a k e .

T h e r e is one old standby a m o n g the gin cocktails of

the aromatic type that has more or less fallen into
disrepute since prohibition, a n d that is the B r o n x .
T h e r e are few cocktails the recipes for w h i c h differ
as w i d e l y as this one. S o m e books r e c o m m e n d dry
vermouth, some sweet vermouth, a n d some both.
S o m e specify equal parts of v e r m o u t h a n d orange
j u i c e a n d some provide only for a slice of orange peel
shaken w i t h the cocktail or a slice of orange dunked
in each glass. Y o u can try out various proportions
a n d modifications for yourself. A t the best, h o w e v e r ,
you will be able to produce only a fairly good cock-
tail—nothing to b r a g or write home about. H e r e is
a fairly good formula for the d r i n k :

BRONX

1 part French Vermouth

1 part Italian Vermouth
1 part Orange Juice
6 parts Yellow Gin

S h a k e w i t h cracked ice. D r o p a twist of orange peel

into each glass.
T h i s cocktail is sometimes called the MECCA. W i t h
2 parts orange j u i c e instead of 1 a n d with the F r e n c h
vermouth omitted, it is sometimes called the A B B E Y .

F o l l o w i n g are t w o variations of this drink:

156
SILVER BRONX

1 part O r a n g e J u i c e
2 parts I t a l i a n V e r m o u t h
6 parts G i n
1 E g g W h i t e to e a c h 2 drinks
S h a k e ingredients other than gin w i t h cracked ice
a n d a d d gin in 2 or 3 installments, shaking after e a c h
addition.
T h i s cocktail is sometimes erroneously called the
B R O O K L Y N . S e e under whisky cocktails, p a g e 1 6 2 ,
for the true Brooklyn.

PINEAPPLE BRONX
1 part Italian Vermouth
1 part Pineapple J u i c e
6 parts G i n
S h a k e w i t h cracked ice.

Rum Cocktails of the Aromatic Type

T h e leading r u m cocktail of the aromatic type is E l
Presidente. G o l d label r u m is somewhat m o r e pleas­
ing t h a n white label w h e n combined w i t h v e r m o u t h
a n d is therefore used in this a n d m a n y other a r o ­
matic-type cocktails. N o t satisfied w i t h one President,
the r u m hounds h a v e concocted two, one C u b a n a n d
one A m e r i c a n .

EL P R E S I D E N T E (Cuban)
1 part French Vermouth
3 parts G o l d L a b e l R u m
1 d a s h G r e n a d i n e to e a c h drink

Stir w i t h large cubes of ice. D r o p a twist of orange

peel in each glass. Sometimes also decorated w i t h a
cherry. T h i s recipe m a y be v a r i e d b y a d d i n g 1 or 2
dashes of curaçao to each drink.

157
EL P R E S I D E N T E (American)
1 part French Vermouth
1 part L e m o n Juice
3 parts G o l d L a b e l R u m
1 d a s h G r e n a d i n e & 1 dash Curaçao to e a c h drink

S h a k e w i t h c r a c k e d ice a n d decorate same as the

C u b a n President.

T h e manufacturers of H a v a n a C l u b , one of the finest

of C u b a n rums, recommend the use of sweet v e r ­
m o u t h instead of dry, thereby m a k i n g the drink a
Rum M a n h a t t a n . T h e recipe suggested by them,
however, is m u c h too sweet. H e r e is a modification:

H A V A N A CLUB

1 part Italian Vermouth

3 parts H a v a n a C l u b G o l d L a b e l R u m
Stir w i t h large cubes of ice. D e c o r a t e w i t h a cherry.
T h i s drink is i m p r o v e d b y a d d i n g 1 dash A n g o s t u r a
to e a c h drink.

If sherry is used in place of v e r m o u t h in the A m e r i ­

can President, the cocktail becomes the

HAVANA

1 part S h e r r y
3 parts G o l d L a b e l R u m
3 or 4 dashes L e m o n J u i c e to each drink
S h a k e well w i t h c r a c k e d ice. Decorate with a twist of
orange peel.
A n o t h e r cocktail, m a d e of 1 p a r t pineapple juice,
2 to 3 parts white label rum, w i t h a dash e a c h of
grenadine a n d maraschino, is sometimes incorrectly
called the H a v a n a . T h e correct n a m e for this drink
is the M A R Y P I C K F O R D .

Of course, as w i t h all the other base liquors, the

wines, citrus juices, a n d liqueurs m a y be omitted al-

158
 together a n d the plain r u m (preferably gold label)
served w i t h a spoonful of sugar syrup a n d a dash of
A n g o s t u r a . T h i s drink is called b y either of t w o
names:

R U M COCKTAIL • R U M O L D - F A S H I O N E D M i x ex­
actly the s a m e as the O l d - F a s h i o n e d ( p a g e 1 0 7 ) but
using gold label r u m instead of whisky.

T h e R u m C o c k t a i l is sometimes stirred in a b a r glass

or pitcher a n d served in cocktail glasses instead of in
O l d - F a s h i o n e d glasses. If m a d e w i t h a dash of orange
bitters in addition to the dash of A n g o s t u r a a n d served
i n a cocktail glass w i t h a twist of orange peel it is
sometimes called M A M M Y B O Y .
T h e r e is just one other r u m cocktail of the aro­
m a t i c type w h i c h m a y be worth mentioning. A c t u a l l y
it is merely a R U M B R O N X . H o w e v e r , it is sometimes
called the

THIRD RAIL

1 part French Vermouth

1 part Italian Vermouth
1 part Orange Juice
6 parts Gold Label R u m

S h a k e well with cracked ice. Decorate w i t h a twist of

orange peel. S o m e recipes call for gin instead of r u m
a n d , of course, the drink then becomes a B r o n x , pure
a n d simple.

I doubt that you will care much for any of the aro­
matic rum cocktails—at least I don't. Sour-type rum
cocktails can be magnificent, but I'll take my Martinis
with gin and my Manhattans and Old-Fashioneds
with whisky. You can have the Presidentes, the Ha­
vana Clubs, and the Third Rails if you want them.
The above examples, however, will show you how this
type is made. And remember, for the Sour type use
white label rum; for the aromatic type, use gold label.
159
Whisky Cocktails of the Aromatic Type
The outstanding aromatic whisky cocktails, of course,
are the Manhattan and the Old-Fashioned. As noted
under the recipes for these drinks, interesting varia­
tions of both may be had by the addition of a dash of
curaçao or any aromatic liqueur. To go any farther
in seeking to modify either of these two magnificent
drinks strikes me as an attempt to gild the lily. How­
ever, boys will be boys, mixers will mix, and inventors
will invent. Accordingly, I shall list a few of the many
dozens of aromatic-type cocktails that various people
have from time to time concocted with a whisky base.
First, however, let me point out that, just as we have
a Gin Cocktail and a Rum Cocktail consisting of the
base liquor with bitters, so, too, we have the
3
WHISKY COCKTAIL Made exactly like the Gin Cock­
tail (page 151) except that whisky is used in place of
gin.
With the addition of sugar, this cocktail becomes
the Old-Fashioned.
Some recipes prescribe both Angostura and orange
bitters. Some also prescribe a dash of gin, but why,
heaven only knows. When made with the two types
of bitters, this cocktail is sometimes called the COUN­
TRY CLUB.

A modified Old-Fashioned is made with Fernet-

Branca, a bitters particularly well loved by Italians,
and is called
TORONTO
1 part Sugar Syrup
2 parts Fernet-Branca
6 parts Canadian Whisky
1 dash Angostura to each drink (optional)
3
In all logic it would seem that a bourbon cocktail should be
a whisky cocktail made with bourbon. This name, however,
has been given to a cocktail of the Sour type. See recipe for
the Bourbon on page 137.
160
 This cocktail may be made in Old-Fashioned glasses
or may be stirred with large cubes of ice and strained
into cocktail glasses. In either case, decorate with a
twist of orange peel.

O n e variation of the M a n h a t t a n employs orange

juice and Chartreuse and is known by two different
names:
4 5
BARBARY COAST • BISHOP
1 part Italian Vermouth
1 part Orange Juice
4 parts Whisky
1 dash Chartreuse (Yellow) to each drink
Shake with cracked ice and decorate with a twist of
orange peel.

A cocktail quite similar to the Toronto except that

it employs Amer Picon in place of Fernet-Branca is
the
NEW DEAL
1 p a r t Sugar Syrup
2 parts Amer Picon
6 parts Whisky
Follow directions for mixing the Toronto.

T h e Lafayette is, in effect, a M e d i u m M a n h a t t a n

with Dubonnet substituted for the Italian vermouth.
LAFAYETTE
1 part French Vermouth
1 part Dubonnet
6 parts Whisky
1 dash Angostura to each drink
4
Another cocktail sometimes called the Barbary Coast is made
with 1 part crème de cacao, 2 parts gin, and 2 parts Scotch
with a tablespoonful of sweet cream to each drink. Shake
with cracked ice.
5
Another cocktail sometimes called the Bishop is, in effect, a
Daiquiri but with 2 parts rum and 1 part claret in place of
straight rum.
161
 Stir with large cubes of ice. T h i s cocktail is sometimes
served a l a O l d - F a s h i o n e d .

If w e substitute lime j u i c e for the D u b o n n e t w e h a v e

the Westchester S p e c i a l . T h i s is a very dry cocktail.
I h a v e already said that F r e n c h v e r m o u t h does not
blend as well w i t h whisky as I t a l i a n V e r m o u t h , nor
lime j u i c e as well as lemon. Y e t here is a cocktail that
uses both F r e n c h v e r m o u t h a n d lime juice and, at
the Westchester C o u n t r y C l u b at least, it seems to be
reasonably popular. I k n o w better cocktails, but I
must a d m i t it is not b a d .
WESTCHESTER SPECIAL
1 part L i m e J u i c e
1 part F r e n c h V e r m o u t h
4 parts B o u r b o n
S h a k e well with cracked ice.

E v e r y borough of G r e a t e r N e w Y o r k has to h a v e its

special cocktail. Y o u h a v e h a d the M a n h a t t a n a n d
the B r o n x . H e r e is the
BROOKLYN
1 part F r e n c h V e r m o u t h
3 parts Whisky
1 dash M a r a s c h i n o to each drink
1 dash A m e r Picon to each drink
Stir w i t h large cubes of ice. If you do not h a v e A m e r
Picon, y o u c a n substitute Angostura.
Y o u will note that the B r o o k l y n is nothing but a D r y
M a n h a t t a n with a dash of maraschino. I t is supposed
to be a specialty of that g r a n d old Brooklyn hotel,
the St. G e o r g e . I w o u l d be willing to w a g e r , h o w e v e r ,
that even in Brooklyn there are at least five to ten
times as m a n y M a n h a t t a n s consumed as there are
Brooklyns. T r y both and y o u will understand w h y .
N o t e that the Silver B r o n x ( p a g e 1 5 7 ) is also some­
times called the Brooklyn.
162
 H e r e are a few m o r e concoctions selected at ran-
dom, all constituting merely minor variations on the
theme of one of the M a n h a t t a n s :

SIDNEY • S T . M O R I T Z D r y M a n h a t t a n w i t h 1 dash
orange bitters a n d 2 or 3 dashes C h a r t r e u s e to each
drink. Stir. A t the S t . M o r i t z H o t e l this drink is
served in O l d - F a s h i o n e d glasses. S o m e recipes call
for e q u a l parts of Chartreuse and F r e n c h v e r m o u t h .

N E W ALGONQUIN D r y M a n h a t t a n w i t h the addi-

tion of the same quantity of pineapple juice as that
of the F r e n c h v e r m o u t h a n d 1 dash of A n g o s t u r a to
e a c h drink. S h a k e .

BOULEVARD D r y M a n h a t t a n w i t h 2 or 3 dashes of
G r a n d M a r n i e r to each drink. U s e orange bitters,
not A n g o s t u r a .
A different version of this drink consists of a M e -
d i u m M a r t i n i w i t h a few dashes of grapefruit juice.

MARIANNE M e d i u m M a n h a t t a n but with B y r r h sub-

stituted for the I t a l i a n v e r m o u t h . Stir.
C o m p a r e the L a f a y e t t e above, in w h i c h D u b o n n e t
is used in p l a c e of I t a l i a n vermouth.

CHERBOURG T h i s is a M e d i u m M a n h a t t a n , p u r e a n d
s i m p l e — 1 p a r t F r e n c h vermouth, 1 p a r t I t a l i a n v e r -
mouth, a n d 6 parts w h i s k y — w i t h a dash of A n g o s t u r a
a n d a dash of lemon j u i c e to e a c h drink. S h a k e .

CAPITOL Sweet M a n h a t t a n w i t h a dash of A n g o s t u r a

a n d 1 or 2 dashes of C o i n t r e a u to e a c h drink. Stir.

S H E E P S H E A D B A Y S w e e t M a n h a t t a n w i t h a dash of
A n g o s t u r a a n d 2 or 3 dashes of Benedictine to each
drink. Stir.

SHAMROCK S w e e t M a n h a t t a n w i t h a dash of A n -
gostura a n d a teaspoonful of green crème de menthe
to e a c h drink. S h a k e .
163
 A n o t h e r version of this drink consists of 1 p a r t
green crème de menthe to 2 or 3 parts gin w i t h a
teaspoonful e a c h of lemon a n d orange juice a n d 1
egg white to e a c h 2 drinks.

HAWTHORNE S w e e t M a n h a t t a n m a d e w i t h equal
parts I t a l i a n v e r m o u t h a n d D u b o n n e t in place of the
straight I t a l i a n v e r m o u t h . 1 dash curaçao to e a c h
drink. Stir.

U P T O W N M A N H A T T A N S w e e t M a n h a t t a n w i t h the
addition of about half as m u c h lemon j u i c e as I t a l i a n
v e r m o u t h . O n e dash A n g o s t u r a to e a c h drink. S h a k e
o r stir.

PICCADILLY U p t o w n M a n h a t t a n w i t h a dash of A n -
gostura a n d 2 or 3 dashes of k ü m m e l to each drink.

H A B I T A N T S w e e t M a r t i n i w i t h the addition of as m u c h
m a p l e syrup as I t a l i a n v e r m o u t h . T w o dashes A n -
gostura to each drink. Stir or shake.
T h i s is a specialty of the C a n a d i a n C l u b of N e w
Y o r k C i t y . I t can be i m p r o v e d u p o n by cutting d o w n
s o m e w h a t on the m a p l e syrup a n d adding a few dashes
of lemon j u i c e .
C o m p a r e the A p p l e j a c k R a b b i t a n d the O l d V e r -
mont, page 146.

T o conclude o u r experimentation w i t h whisky cock-

tails of the a r o m a t i c type, let us consider the Sazerac,
w i d e l y advertised as the drink that m a d e N e w Orleans
famous. T h i s is one of the numerous drinks whose pre-
cise f o r m u l a is supposed to b e a d e e p d a r k secret.
S o m e h o w , the gullibility of h u m a n nature is such that
the two things that seem to afford the greatest a d v e r -
tising v a l u e to a drink are ( 1 ) a secret formula
shrouded in g r e a t mystery, a n d ( 2 ) the slogan " O n l y
two to a customer."
164
 There have been many recipes published purport­
ing to be the true and original Sazerac. I cannot vouch
for the authenticity of any of them, especially since
the Sazerac Company of New Orleans still claims that
its drink (which, incidentally, is sold bottled as a
ready-mixed cocktail) is made from a formula that
has been in use for more than a hundred years and
never made public. Nevertheless, anyone at all familiar
with liquors who has ever tasted this drink knows that
essentially it is merely an Old-Fashioned made with
Peychaud bitters instead of Angostura and flavored
with a dash of absinthe. Traditionally, the Sazerac,
like the Old-Fashioned, is made by first saturating a
lump of sugar with bitters and then muddling it. In
the interest of simplicity and better drinks, however,
we have abandoned loaf sugar in favor of sugar syrup.
We shall therefore make our Sazerac in this manner:
SAZERAC Fill small Old-Fashioned glasses with finely
crushed ice and set aside to chill. Put into pre-chilled
bar glass or pitcher for each drink:
1 tsp. Sugar Syrup
3 dashes Peychaud Bitters
2 to21/2ounces Whisky
Stir with large ice cubes until thoroughly chilled.
Empty the Old-Fashioned glasses. Put 1 dash absinthe
in each glass and twirl glasses until inside is thor­
oughly rinsed with the absinthe, throwing out any
excess liquid. Strain liquor into the chilled and rinsed
glasses. Twist a strip of lemon peel over each drink
and drop into glass for decoration. Serve with a glass
of ice water on the side as a chaser.
The Sazerac is a sharp, pungent, thoroughly dry cock­
tail. To most people, however, the combination of
absinthe and whisky is not particularly pleasing.
Whisky lovers do not like the sharp, biting taste that
the absinthe imparts. Absinthe lovers prefer their
absinthe straight, dripped, frappéed, or mixed with
gin rather than whisky. Even among my various New
165
 Orleans friends I h a v e yet to find a Sazerac addict.
Nevertheless, various hotels, clubs, and other bars h a v e
created simplified Sazerac-type cocktails—drinks with
pretty m u c h the same flavor as the Sazerac but which
can be m a d e with m u c h less fuss a n d loss of time. H e r e
is one that is typical of all of this g r o u p :

W E Y L I N • L O T U S CLUB SPECIAL Dissolve a l u m p of

sugar with a few dashes of P e y c h a u d or A n g o s t u r a
bitters a n d m u d d l e in a b a r glass. A d d a dash or t w o
of absinthe a n d a drink of rye or bourbon. Stir a n d
serve in a n O l d - F a s h i o n e d glass, adding a twist of
lemon to the finished drink.

Scotch Cocktails of the Aromatic Type

T h u s f a r all the whisky cocktails w e h a v e discussed
h a v e been m a d e w i t h either bourbon or rye. J u s t w h y
anyone should w a n t to m a k e a cocktail with Scotch I
w o u l d n ' t know, any more than I can understand w h y
anyone should w a n t to kill the exquisite bouquet of a
good c h a m p a g n e by blending it with sugar, A n g o s t u r a ,
a n d lemon a n d calling it a c h a m p a g n e cocktail. H o w ­
ever, there are Scotch cocktails, most of them of the
aromatic type, a n d this is probably as good a time as
a n y to mention a few.
T h e simplest of all Scotch cocktails, of course, is the
6
SCOTCH COCKTAIL M a d e exactly like the G i n C o c k ­
tail ( p a g e 1 5 1 ) but with Scotch in place of the gin.
T h i s drink is greatly i m p r o v e d by the addition of
1 teaspoonful of sugar syrup to each drink. W h e n so
m a d e , it w a s dubbed b y Colonel G . S e l m e r F o u g n e r ,
of Wine Trail fame, T H E J O H N McCLAIN. I t is also
sometimes called the LOCH L O M O N D .

Of all the Scotch cocktails sold, probably nine out of

every ten are either S c o t c h O l d - F a s h i o n e d s or Scotch
6
An interesting variation of these drinks may be obtained by
substituting Peychaud bitters for the Angostura. Peychaud,
somehow, seems to blend better than Angostura with the
Scotch.

166
 M a n h a t t a n s . T h e S c o t c h M a n h a t t a n , however, has
been g i v e n a special name—the R o b R o y . H e r e they
both a r e :
6
SCOTCH OLD-FASHIONED M a d e exactly like the
O l d - F a s h i o n e d but w i t h Scotch in place of rye or
bourbon.
6
ROB R O Y M a d e exactly like the M a n h a t t a n but w i t h
Scotch in place of rye or bourbon.
If orange bitters are used instead of Angostura, this
drink is sometimes called the H I G H L A N D , or the
H I G H L A N D F L I N G , or the E X P R E S S .
A n interesting variation of the R o b R o y is the
6
B O B B I E B U R N S R o b R o y w i t h the addition of 1 dash
of D r a m b u i e for each drink. Benedictine is sometimes
used in place of D r a m b u i e . H o w e v e r , the D r a m b u i e is
preferable because it is m a d e w i t h a Scotch whisky
base.
S o m e lost o r misguided soul w i t h nothing better to
occupy his time has even devised the Scotch Sazerac
but without the elaborate work involved in the orig­
inal S a z e r a c . F o r w h a t e v e r it m a y be w o r t h ( w h i c h is
not m u c h ) , here it i s :
SCOTCH SAZERAC
1 part Italian Vermouth
6 to 1 0 parts Scotch (according to taste)
1 dash Absinthe to each drink
Stir w i t h large cubes of ice.
T h e a b o v e are all modifications of the S w e e t M a n ­
hattan, using Scotch whisky. O t h e r Scotch cocktails
are based on the D r y a n d M e d i u m M a n h a t t a n for­
mulas. H e r e are a f e w :
A F F I N I T Y T h i s is simply a M e d i u m M a n h a t t a n but
w i t h Scotch in place of rye or bourbon.
6
An interesting variation of these drinks may be obtained by
substituting Peychaud bitters for the Angostura. Peychaud,
somehow, seems to blend better than Angostura with the
Scotch.

167
B E A D L E S T O N A D r y M a n h a t t a n but w i t h Scotch in
place of rye or bourbon.
If the v e r m o u t h is reduced to a few dashes to each
drink, this drink is sometimes called the B L U E B E L L .
If, in place of A n g o s t u r a in the B l u e Bell, a dash
of orange bitters a n d a dash of C o i n t r e a u are substi-
tuted, the drink is sometimes called G R E E N B R I A R .
C o m p a r e Greenbrier, p a g e 1 5 6 .

A n o t h e r v a r i a t i o n of the D r y Scotch M a n h a t t a n is the

TRINITY A D r y M a n h a t t a n , using Scotch whisky w i t h

a dash of orange bitters, a d a s h of apricot, a n d a dash
of w h i t e crème de m e n t h e to e a c h drink.

T h e S c o t c h M a n h a t t a n s a r e sometimes v a r i e d by the
addition of lemon o r lime j u i c e . T h e s e variations, too,
h a v e been n a m e d as follows:

H O L E I N O N E A D r y S c o t c h M a n h a t t a n w i t h a dash of
orange bitters a n d a dash of lemon juice to each drink.

C H U R C H I L L A S w e e t Scotch M a n h a t t a n w i t h a dash
of lime j u i c e a n d a dash of C o i n t r e a u to e a c h drink.

If you particularly like S c o t c h a n d y o u w a n t to play

w i t h Scotch cocktails, I suggest that you start by com-
bining the liquor in v a r y i n g proportions, first with
F r e n c h vermouth, then w i t h Italian, a n d ascertain
w h i c h combination y o u prefer. T h e n try v a r y i n g this
m i x t u r e b y a d d i n g a d a s h of different aromatic li-
queurs, but be extremely w a r y of using sweet fruit
liqueurs such as maraschino, apricot, p e a c h , etc.
D r a m b u i e blends perfectly w i t h Scotch. V a n der
H u m , Benedictine, Chartreuse, a n d a f e w others
blend reasonably well. If y o u r blend seems to lack
c h a r a c t e r a n d piquancy, try a d d i n g a dash of lemon
juice. Sometimes, too, a mere change in the bitters
used will c h a n g e the entire c h a r a c t e r of the drink. If
you a r e careful a n d h a v e sufficient patience, you will
probably succeed in evolving a few mixtures that arc
168
 at least reasonably palatable. I doubt that you will
ever find any Scotch combination that is really out­
standing or substantial i m p r o v e m e n t u p o n the p l a i n
S c o t c h M a n h a t t a n or p l a i n Scotch 'n' Bitters.

Brandy Cocktails of the Aromatic Type

H e r e again, as with gin, rum, a n d whisky, the stand­
a r d B r a n d y C o c k t a i l consists simply of b r a n d y a n d
bitters. T h e r e are, h o w e v e r , numerous varieties. O n e
of them, w h i c h is a bit on the S o u r side in that it em­
ploys lemon juice a n d a liqueur, has already been
given at p a g e 1 4 2 . M o s t of the recipes for the B r a n d y
C o c k t a i l employ either sugar or some liqueur even
w h e r e lemon is not used, a n d this, if the a m o u n t of
the sweet is kept d o w n to a f e w dashes, makes a n
excellent drink. I t should scarcely be necessary to
point out that a really delightful drink will result
only from the use of a w e l l - a g e d cognac o r a r m a g n a c .
H e r e is a typical recipe without any citrus j u i c e :

B R A N D Y COCKTAIL T o each drink (2 ounces) of

cognac in the b a r glass or pitcher a d d 3 dashes (1/2
teaspoonful) sugar syrup a n d 1 dash A n g o s t u r a . Stir
with large cubes of ice. A twist of lemon peel o v e r
each glass. I t is, of course, simply a B r a n d y O l d -
Fashioned.
T h i s m a y be v a r i e d by a d d i n g for e a c h drink 1 or
2 dashes of c u r a ç a o , maraschino, or Benedictine.

During World War I, Japan was an ally of the United

States and not an enemy. Presumably it must have
been around that time that someone named a very
satisfactory cocktail the
JAPANESE
1 part Orgea
8 parts C o g n a c
1 dash A n g o s t u r a to each drink

Stir w i t h cracked ice.

169
 A s w i t h the various aromatic whisky cocktails, m a n y
of the b r a n d y cocktails are simply variations of one
or another of the three types of M a n h a t t a n s , b u t w i t h
cognac substituted for rye or bourbon.
D E L M O N I C O T h i s is a plain M a n h a t t a n w i t h c o g n a c
substituted for the whisky. If orange bitters are used
instead of A n g o s t u r a , it becomes a H A R V A R D .
T h i s is also sometimes called a S A R A T O G A . T h e
real S a r a t o g a , h o w e v e r , is m a d e w i t h a p p l e b r a n d y .
T h e r e is also a D E L M O N I C O SPECIAL w h i c h is merely
a M e d i u m M a r t i n i w i t h 1 teaspoonful of b r a n d y to
e a c h drink a n d a twist of o r a n g e peel.
ANNIVERSARY Also the M a n h a t t a n type but w i t h
equal parts of gin a n d cognac in p l a c e of the whisky
a n d w i t h 2 dashes of orange bitters to e a c h drink in
place of A n g o s t u r a .
If F r e n c h v e r m o u t h is used in p l a c e of I t a l i a n v e r ­
mouth, this cocktail becomes a B E R M U D A . T h e r e
a r e also t w o other cocktails called the B e r m u d a . O n e
is a plain R u m S o u r w i t h a d a s h of A n g o s t u r a . T h e
other is m a d e w i t h gin a n d p e a c h or apricot b r a n d y
in place of cognac, and w i t h a dash of grenadine.
T h i s latter is also called B E R M U D A R O S E .

A n o t h e r interesting cocktail that is one of the v e r y

few in w h i c h port wine is used is the
MONTANA
1 part French Vermouth
1 p a r t Port W i n e
4 parts C o g n a c
Stir w i t h large cubes of ice.
H e r e is a combination aromatic a n d S o u r t y p e :
COURTNEY RILEY COOPER
1 part Cointreau
1 part Lime Juice
1 part Dubonnet
4 parts Cognac
S h a k e well with cracked ice.
170
BOMBAY T h i s is m a d e like a Medium Manhattan
w i t h 2 or 3 dashes of c u r a ç a o to e a c h drink and, of
course, w i t h c o g n a c instead of whisky. S o m e recipes
also call for a dash of anisette. Stir w i t h cracked ice.

METROPOLITAN M a d e like a D r y M a n h a t t a n but

w i t h cognac. A d d 2 or 3 dashes of sugar syrup a n d
the same a m o u n t of A n g o s t u r a for e a c h drink.

A cocktail something like S l o p p y J o e ' s ( p a g e 2 5 4 )

i n that it uses pineapple juice in conjunction w i t h
c o g n a c is the

E A S T INDIA

1 part Curaçao
1 part Pineapple J u i c e
8 parts Cognac
1 or 2 dashes A n g o s t u r a to each drink

S h a k e well w i t h cracked ice. Decorate with a cherry

a n d a twist of lemon. M a r a s c h i n o m a y be substituted
for the pineapple j u i c e .

T h u s f a r I h a v e not mentioned a n y of the S m a s h e s ;

that is, drinks flavored w i t h crushed mint. Y e olde-
tyme bartenders' manuals featured Smashes as drinks
served in a large glass filled w i t h crushed ice a n d
decorated w i t h every conceivable kind of fruit. O n
the other h a n d , the flavor of mint " m a r r i e s " satis­
factorily w i t h practically a n y spirituous liquor, a n d
there is no reason w h y a S m a s h cannot be served in
a n O l d - F a s h i o n e d or other small glass as a cocktail.
A B r a n d y S m a s h makes a n excellent cocktail. C o m ­
p a r e the M a i s o n C h a r l e s ( p a g e 1 3 2 ) a n d the M a d i s o n
A v e n u e (page 1 3 3 ) , both m a d e w i t h r u m . F o r S m a s h
recipes see p a g e 2 5 4 .
I h a v e repeatedly pointed out that I by no means
r e c o m m e n d all of the various recipes contained in this
book. I a m setting forth the recipes primarily to show
171
 you how simple it is to flit from cocktail to cocktail
and, by observing a very few fundamental principles,
to reach down into your supply closet at any time
and bring up a new drink by just a simple twist of the
wrist and without the use of mirrors. Only one out of
many will be a real masterpiece. Once in a while,
despite the greatest care, you will come out with a
complete flop. But you can always be cheered by the
thought that, blunder along as you may, you will
find it difficult, if not impossible, to concoct anything
worse than some of the unholy messes to be found in
almost any recipe book.
For the most part, I have tried to tame down the
recipes in this book where possible, to bring them
within at least a reasonable approximation of my
definition of an apéritif cocktail. For example, see the
Bee's Knees (page 124) and the Orange Blossom
(page 126). In some cases the effort to do this scarcely
seemed worth while and I have simply set forth the
proportions more or less commonly recommended
and employed because, after all, I expect you to
"roll your own," and all these recipes are merely to
show you what others have done and how they have
done it—be the results good, bad, or indifferent.
I have already expressed my opinion both of the
Alexander and of the Champagne Cocktail. Despite
all I have said, however, maybe you will like them
and, if you do, here are prototypes of both in which
brandy is used.
CHICAGO In a bar glass containing 1 or 2 large cubes
of cracked ice, stir 1 jigger cognac with 1 dash
Angostura and 2 or 3 dashes curaçao. Strain into a
chilled and frosted cocktail or saucer champagne glass
and fill the glass with champagne.
Compare the Maharajah's Burra Peg, page 219.
PANAMA
1 part Sweet Cream
1 part Crème de Cacao
3 to 4 parts Cognac
172
 S h a k e vigorously w i t h c r a c k e d or crushed ice.

T h e P a n a m a , of course, is not a n aromatic-type cock­

tail. I h a v e put it here alongside the C h i c a g o because
both of t h e m seem to m e to represent such a futile
waste of good liquor. T h e P a n a m a is merely a
B r a n d y A l e x a n d e r w i t h c o g n a c substituted for the
gin. T h e original A l e x a n d e r recipe calls for equal
parts of the three ingredients. I h a v e tried to cut
d o w n on the sugar b o w l a n d c r e a m pitcher sufficiently
to m a k e the drink h a l f w a y fit to introduce to the
stomach as a prelude to the m e a l . A s a dessert rather
t h a n a n apéritif the original f o r m u l a is excellent.

Applejack Cocktails of the Aromatic Type

T h e w h o l e subject of a p p l e j a c k cocktails might be
s u m m e d u p b y saying that if you c a n get a well-made,
thoroughly m a t u r e d a p p l e b r a n d y (let us say at least
six to eight years old) y o u c a n safely use it in place
of g r a p e b r a n d y in a n y b r a n d y drink. T h e flavor, of
course, will differ from that of c o g n a c but only as
the flavor of bourbon differs from that of rye. Y o u
m a y like one better than the other, just as you h a v e
a preference between strawberries a n d raspberries or
between oysters a n d clams, but, except for taste pref­
erences, the one should m a k e just as fine a drink as
the other. A n d , by the same token, if y o u cannot get
a n a p p l e b r a n d y that is well m a d e a n d well aged,
you cannot m a k e good a p p l e j a c k drinks a n y m o r e
t h a n y o u could m a k e good drinks w i t h b a t h t u b gin
or w i t h " W h i t e M u l e " fresh from the still.
A s w i t h the other liquors, the cocktail that bears
the n a m e of the base liquor consists of that liquor
w i t h bitters—nothing m o r e :

A P P L E J A C K COCKTAIL O n e or 2 dashes A n g o s t u r a
to each j i g g e r of apple brandy. Stir. T w i s t a slice of
lemon peel o v e r each drink.
T h i s same drink plus 1 teaspoonful sugar syrup
is k n o w n as the C O N N E C T I C U T .

173
APPLEJACK OLD-FASHIONED Made exactly like the
Old-Fashioned but using apple brandy in place of
whisky.

7
B.V.D. • APPLEJACK MANHATTAN Made exactly
like the Manhattan but with apple brandy instead of
whisky.

APPLE BLOSSOM Applejack Manhattan with 2 dashes

grenadine and 2 dashes pineapple juice to each drink.
Stir.

STAR Made like a Dry Manhattan, using apple brandy

in place of whisky. One dash Angostura to each drink.
A twist of lemon over each glass.
The addition of 1/2 teaspoonful of sugar syrup to
each drink changes the name to the T.N.T. SPECIAL.
The Star is also sometimes called the KLONDIKE
and sometimes the FARMER'S WIFE.

Aromatic W i n e Cocktails
The great native American drink is the cocktail and,
for the production of this drink, America draws its
ingredients from all over the world—gin from Eng­
land, vodka from Russia, vermouths from Italy and
France, cognac and armagnac from France, rum from
the West Indies, cordials from Denmark, Holland,
France, and Austria, etc. It uses aromatic wines only as
a modifier in conjunction with spirituous liquors.
Now all this is fine and I am one of those who
greatly prefer a good cocktail with a base of spirituous
liquor to any wine, aromatic or otherwise, as an
apéritif. Nevertheless, the various aromatic wines,
either straight or with a dash of bitters, do make light,
dry, and wholly palatable aperitifs in themselves.
7
Another cocktail, sometimes called the B.V.D., is made with
French vermouth, gin, and rum.
174
 E u r o p e a n s generally take them in preference to cock­
tails. M o r e o v e r , some of the various bitters, such as
A m e r Picon, F e r n e t - B r a n c a , C a m p a r i , a n d U n i c u m ,
w h e n diluted, either w i t h w a t e r or w i t h a n a r o m a t i c
wine, m a k e splendid tonics a n d appetizers. I a m not
g o i n g to c o m p a r e a P i c o n cocktail w i t h a D r y M a r t i n i
or a L a r c h m o n t , but anyone interested in assorted
drinks should try some of these aromatics without the
addition of spirits just to see w h a t they are like.
A s previously stated, a genuine cocktail, strictly
speaking, must h a v e a base of spirituous liquor, a n d
such liquor must comprise m o r e t h a n 5 0 p e r cent of
the finished cocktail, but as a m a t t e r of convenience
w e also speak of v e r m o u t h cocktails, D u b o n n e t cock­
tails, etc., although the spirituous liquor constitutes
less than 50 p e r cent of the w h o l e drink or even if
the drink contains no spirits whatsoever.
H e r e are a f e w " c o c k t a i l s " in w h i c h the a r o m a t i c
w i n e is used as a base instead of a modifier.

VERMOUTH S t r a i g h t I t a l i a n v e r m o u t h with 1 or 2
dashes A n g o s t u r a to each drink. A twist of lemon
peel in e a c h drink. If possible, chill the w i n e in the
bottle a n d p o u r into chilled glasses. Otherwise, stir
quickly a n d briefly w i t h large cubes of ice.

DUPLEX • MIXED VERMOUTH French and Italian

vermouths, half a n d half. O t h e r w i s e follow the recipe
for the V e r m o u t h .
T h i s same drink w i t h the addition of a dash of
m a r a s c h i n o is k n o w n as the D I P L O M A T .

ADONIS
1 part Italian V e r m o u t h
2 parts D r y Sherry
8
1 or 2 dashes B i t t e r s to e a c h drink.

Stir quickly with large cubes of ice.

8
Wherever the word "bitters" is used without specifying the
brand, use your favorite bitters, whatever that may be.

175
BAMBOO • AMOUR
1 part French Vermouth
1 part D r y Sherry
8
1 or 2 dashes B i t t e r s to e a c h drink
Stir quickly w i t h large cubes of ice. A twist of orange
peel o v e r e a c h glass.

BAHIA • BRAZIL
1 part French Vermouth
1 p a r t D r y Sherry
1 dash O r a n g e Bitters & 2 or 3 dashes Absinthe to
e a c h drink
O n e half teaspoonful sugar syrup to e a c h drink m a y
b e a d d e d if desired. Stir with cracked ice. A twist of
l e m o n o v e r each glass.

MERRY WIDOW
1 part French Vermouth
1 part D u b o n n e t
1 dash O r a n g e Bitters to e a c h drink
Stir quickly w i t h large cubes of ice. A twist of lemon
o v e r e a c h drink.

PICON ( S W E E T )
1 p a r t A m e r Picon
1 part Italian Vermouth
F o l l o w instructions for the D u p l e x , a b o v e .

PICON (DRY)
1 part French Vermouth
2 parts A m e r Picon
1 part Gin
1 dash O r a n g e Bitters to e a c h drink.
Stir w i t h c r a c k e d ice. A twist of lemon o v e r e a c h
drink.
8
Wherever the word "bitters" is used without specifying the
brand, use your favorite bitters, whatever that may be.

176
PICON CREMAILLERE
1 part Amer Picon
1 part Dubonnet
2 parts Gin
1 dash Bitters to each drink
Follow instructions for the Dry Picon, above.

DUBONNET
1 part Dubonnet
1 part Gin
Follow instructions for the Dry Picon, above.

There are two cocktails made with Byrrh, one with

gin and the other with rye, both of which, unfortu­
nately, are commonly referred to as the Byrrh Cock­
tail. To be safe, therefore, it is best to specify the
liquor as well as the wine.

BYRRH, GIN • BYRRH, RYE

1 part French Vermouth
1 part Gin or Rye
2 to 4 parts Byrrh, according to taste
Stir with large cubes of ice. A twist of lemon over
each glass.

And finally here is one from Switzerland, the home

of that excellent cherry brandy, kirsch.

SWISS
1 part Dubonnet
1 part Kirsch
Stir with large cubes of ice. A twist of lemon may be
added if desired.
Compare the Rose, page 249.
177
 7
LIQUEURS

I n the chapter on limes, lemons, a n d liquors w e by­

passed the enumeration and description of the various
cordials or liqueurs in more or less c o m m o n use, stat­
i n g on p a g e 75 that this w o u l d be taken u p in a later
chapter. T h a t w a s in order that w e might get d o w n to
the i m p o r t a n t business of m i x i n g our "six basic cock­
tails" a n d learning to "roll our o w n . " L e t us n o w g o
back to the subject of liqueurs.
F o r the distinction between brandies ( d r y ) a n d
liqueurs (sweet) as well as for the names of m a n u ­
facturers of some of the better liqueurs, see the sec­
tion on liqueurs ( p a g e 75) u n d e r C h a p t e r 3. R e ­
m e m b e r that, while both brandies a n d liqueurs a r e
used as after-dinner drinks a n d w h i l e both m a y be
used in cocktails, a b r a n d y is used as a base liquor
whereas a liqueur is used only in minute quantities
as a special sweetening a n d flavoring agent in p l a c e
of or in conjunction w i t h sugar. R e m e m b e r also that,
whereas a n y liqueur can be used in a Sour-type cock­
tail, particularly w i t h gin or r u m , the aromatic- a n d
citrus-type liqueurs a r e the best for use in a cocktail
containing a r o m a t i c wines.
H e r e is a list of the better-known liqueurs. W h i l e
m a n y liqueurs contain some a r o m a t i c herbs, I h a v e
178
 indicated those that are most definitely aromatic a n d
those that are strongly citrus so that y o u will know
w h i c h ones are best to use in y o u r aromatic-type cock­
tails. N o t e that this list also includes a f e w bottled
syrups (not, strictly speaking, liqueurs) that are either
non-alcoholic or of a very l o w alcoholic content.

ABRICOT1NE • A P R I C O T L I Q U E U R • A P R Y (ah-pree')
A v e r y sweet apricot-flavored liqueur w i t h a g r a p e -
b r a n d y base. Abricotine a n d Apry are the trade names
of special brands. T h e latter is the product of M a r i e
B r i z a r d a n d is generally r e g a r d e d as the best of all.

ADVOCAAT (ahd-vo-kaht') A thick, h e a v y m i x t u r e

of g r a p e brandy, sugar, a n d eggs, resembling a
brandy-flavored custard sauce. T h i s is a n excellent
tonic drink. I t is not particularly useful in cocktail
m i x i n g a l t h o u g h it is specified in a few recipes.

ALLASCH See Kümmel, below.

A N I S (ah-nees') • A N I S E T T E (ah-nee-set') A rather

sweet, clear liqueur of aromatic type, the principal
flavoring ingredient being anise seed. M a r i e Brizard's
anisette is generally regarded as the best b r a n d . See
also Liqueur d'Anis, below.

ARRACK PUNSCH A rather sickish-sweet liqueur with

a base of Batavia arak which, in turn, is a molasses
rum from the island of Java. See page 44.

BENEDICTINE O n e of the oldest a n d best of all li­

queurs, highly aromatic, a n d h a v i n g a base of the
finest c o g n a c . I t is a proprietary liqueur m a d e b y the
Benedictine Society at F e c a m p , F r a n c e . T h e famil­
iar letters D . O . M . w h i c h are printed on the label do
not stand for D o m i n i c a n O r d e r of M o n k s but for the

179
 Latin, Deo Optimo Maximo, meaning: "To God, the
Best, the Greatest." It is made with consummate skill
and is thoroughly aged. There are few liqueurs in the
world that can compare with it.

BLACKBERRY LIQUEUR A blackberry-flavored liqueur

made from blackberry brandy, usually in combination
with a small percentage of red wine.

CALORIC PUNSCH • CARLSHAMM'S PUNSCH

Same as Arrack Punsch, above.

CERTOSA (chair-toh'-sah) An Italian liqueur, some-

what similar to Chartreuse, but seldom seen in this
country. It comes in different colors and flavors and,
like Benedictine and Chartreuse, is made by a reli-
gious order.

CHARTREUSE Another grand old liqueur which, like

Benedictine, originated with a religious order. It is
not as old a liquor as Benedictine by some two hun-
dred and fifty years, but it compares favorably in
flavor, and the secret of its formula is as jealously and
effectively guarded. Unlike Benedictine, it is still made
by the religious order with which it originated. This
order, however, has twice been forced out of France,
and during their exile the fathers took their secret
formula to Spain where they established a second
plant. The Chartreuse made in Spain is labeled "Li-
queur Fabriquée à Tarragona par les Pères Char-
treux." It is normally found in two colors, yellow and
green, the green being of higher proof (110°, as
against 86°), decidedly drier and more aromatic, and
in every respect the better of the two. There is also
an Elixir Chartreuse of 150° to 160° which, however,
is seldom, if ever, seen in this country. Recently the
order returned to France, where they are now again
manufacturing the liqueur.
180
C H E R R Y L I Q U E U R T h i s is a rich, h e a v y liqueur m a d e
of w i l d black cherries w i t h a base of g r a p e brandy.
T h e finest of all brands is Cherry Heering made by
Peter F . H e e r i n g of C o p e n h a g e n , D e n m a r k . R o c h e r
Frères also m a k e a n excellent cherry.

C.L.O.C. A faintly c a r a w a y - f l a v o r e d D a n i s h liqueur

p r o d u c e d by the manufacturers of A a l b o r g A k v a v i t . I t
is usually referred to as " C l o c " (pronounced k l a w c k ) ,
although actually the n a m e consists of the four initials
of the phrase, Cuminum Liquidum Optimum Castelli.

C O I N T R E A U (kwen'-troh) A proprietary liqueur of the

citrus type m a d e by C o i n t r e a u , S . A . R . L . , of A n g e r s ,
F r a n c e . White, orange flavor, 80 proof, cognac base.
See also Curaçao a n d Grand Marnier, below.

CORDIAL M E D O C ( c o r d - y a h l ' m a y ' - d o c ) A proprie-

tary liqueur m a d e by J . A . J o u r d e of B o r d e a u x ,
F r a n c e . While it is primarily a blend of orange cu-
raçao, crème de c a c a o , a n d cognac, it cannot be
classed as citrus type because the c o c o a flavor so c o m -
pletely subdues the orange flavor of the c u r a ç a o .

C R È M E D ' A N A N A S (krem d a h - n a h ' - n a ) A sweet l i -

q u e u r flavored w i t h pineapple.

C R È M E D E B A N A N E S (krem de b a - n a h n ' ) A sweet

liqueur flavored w i t h bananas.

C R E M E D E CACAO (kah-kah'-oh) A very sweet,

syrupy liqueur of dark chocolate color a n d cocoa
flavor.

C R E M E D E CAFE ( k a h - f a y ' ) V e r y m u c h like crème d e

c a c a o but with a coffee flavor.
181
C R È M E D E CASSIS (kah-see') A dark, moderately
sweet liqueur flavored w i t h black currants. T h e proof
is very l o w — u s u a l l y less than 4 0 ° .

C R È M E D E F R A I S E S (frayz) • CREME DE F R A M -
B O I S E (fraN-bwahz') T w o sweet liqueurs, the for-
m e r flavored w i t h strawberries a n d the latter w i t h
red raspberries. S e e Framboise, below.

C R È M E D E M E N T H E ( m a N t ) A moderately sweet,
pungent, a r o m a t i c liqueur flavored w i t h various
mints, chiefly peppermint. I t is sold i n t w o colors,
white a n d green, the latter being artificially colored.
T h e w h i t e is usually s o m e w h a t drier a n d , therefore,
is preferred by connoisseurs. Freezomint, m a d e by
Cusenier, is generally regarded as the best of all
brands, a l t h o u g h I h a v e tasted one or t w o other
brands that I liked fully as well, if not better.

CRÈME DE M O K A (moh'-ka) S a m e as c r è m e de café,

above.

CRÈME DE N O Y A U X (nwa-yoh') A liqueur m a d e

from fruit pits a n d h a v i n g a bitter, almost harsh, al-
m o n d flavor.

CRÈME DE ROSE A sweet liqueur flavored with va-

nilla a n d rose-petal oil.

CRÈME DE T H É (tay) T e a - f l a v o r e d liqueur.

CRÈME DE VANILLE (vah-nee'-ya) V e r y sweet liqueur

m a d e from v a n i l l a beans.

CRÈME DE VIOLETTE (vee"-oh-lef) • CRÈME Y V E T T E

(ee-vet') V e r y sweet violet-flavored liqueur.

182
CURAÇAO (kew'-ra-soh") A citrus liqueur made from
the peel of the bitter orange grown on the island of
Curaçao, Dutch West Indies, where this drink orig-
inated. The best of the brands commonly found in
this country is R.O.C., made by Rocher Frères of
France. Excellent curaçaos are also made in Holland.
There are both orange and white curaçaos. See also
Cointreau and Triple Sec.

DAMIANA (dah"-mee-ah'-nah) A rather nondescript

French cordial seldom found in this country. Suppos-
edly it possesses some slight aphrodisiac properties.

DANZIGER GOLDWASSER (dahn'-tsik-er golt'-vahs-

ser) • EAU DE VIE DE DANZIG (oh de vee de dahn'-
tsik) • EAU D'OR (oh dawr) While Benedictine is
doubtless the oldest proprietary liqueur still in exist-
ence—having originated early in the sixteenth cen-
tury—"Golden Water," of which the modern Ger-
man goldwasser is the prototype, is said to date back
four centuries earlier. It is a rather dry, aromatic, and
citrus liquor, colorless except for the tiny particles of
pure gold leaf contained in it. These present a very
attractive appearance when the drink is shaken or
stirred.

DRAMBUIE (drahm-bew'-ee) A proprietary liqueur

that has been made for some two hundred years.
Reasonably dry and aromatic in character. The only
liqueur made with a base of the finest pot-still Scotch.
The other principal ingredient is honey having a
heather flavor. If you want a liqueur to blend with
cocktails having a Scotch base, by all means try
Drambuie.

FALERNUM (fa-lair'-num) This syrup has scarcely

enough alcoholic content to be classed as a liqueur.
0
The proof runs from 12° to 18 . It is a heavy white
183
 syrup w i t h a base obtained in distilling rum. A r o -
m a t i c in character, with a distinct a l m o n d flavor a n d
just a faint suspicion of ginger. E x c e l l e n t with r u m
drinks, particularly in combination w i t h lime juice,
but blends better with J a m a i c a a n d the other h e a v y -
bodied rums than with white C u b a n rum.

FIOR D ' A L P E (fee'-ohr d a h l ' - p a y ) • FIORI ALPINI

(fee-oh'-ree ahl-pee'-nee) • FLORA DELLA ALPI
(ahl'-pee) A sweet, light-colored, aromatic I t a l i a n
liqueur. A twig is placed inside the bottle on w h i c h
the s u g a r forms into crystals of rock candy. W h e n the
twig is covered with the sugar crystals its a p p e a r a n c e
is v e r y attractive. Unfortunately, h o w e v e r , unless the
bottle is kept v e r y cool, the sugar dissolves off a n d falls
to the bottom of the bottle, leaving the t w i g b a r e . T h i s
does not d a m a g e the quality of the liqueur in the least.

FORBIDDEN FRUIT A proprietary, sweet, citrus liqueur

invented by L o u i s Bustanoby. T h e principal flavoring
agent is a West Indies grapefruit called the shad-
dock. T h e base is g r a p e brandy. Despite the fact
that this liqueur has enjoyed a huge popularity, espe-
cially with the ladies, I regard it as decidedly inferior
to the other citrus liqueurs such as G r a n d M a r n i e r ,
Cointreau, a n d curaçao.

F R A M B O I S E (fraN-bwahz') • F R A M B O I S E T T E (fraN-
bwa-zet') F r a m b o i s e is, or should be, a raspberry
b r a n d y rather than a liqueur. Framboisette is the
same as Crème de Framboise, above.

FREEZOMINT See Crème de Menthe, above.

GOLDWASSER S e e Danziger Goldwasser, above.

GRAND MARNIER (grawN marn-yay') A dry, pun-

gent, citrus liqueur—orange-flavored on a base of the
184
 finest g r a n d c h a m p a g n e brandy. T o m e this is the
absolute king of all liqueurs, excelling even B e n e d i c ­
tine a n d Chartreuse. I t lacks the antiquity of G o l d -
wasser a n d B e n e d i c t i n e ; it does not boast the religious
p a r e n t a g e of Benedictine a n d C h a r t r e u s e ; but f o r
sheer excellence of flavor it is unsurpassed. I t blends
magnificently in all m a n n e r of cocktails, p a r t i c u l a r l y
of the S o u r type. I t is also superb in cooking, for
all m a n n e r of dessert sauces, and, of course, it is a n
absolute " m u s t " for crepes suzette.

GRENADINE A very sweet, reddish, non-alcoholic

syrup, mildly flavored w i t h pomegranates. U s e d pri­
m a r i l y for color r a t h e r than flavor.

K Ü M M E L (kim'-mel) A very dry, aromatic, white li­

q u e u r flavored principally with cumin, coriander, a n d
c a r a w a y seed. T h e base is usually g r a i n spirits. T h e
proof is usually fairly h i g h — f r o m 8 2 ° to 100°. T h e
k ü m m e l m a d e by G i l k a in G e r m a n y is usually re­
g a r d e d as the best b r a n d . H o w e v e r , A l l a s c h D o p p e l t
Kümmel, m a d e b y S e v e r y in B e l g i u m , a n d Bols-
kümmel, m a d e in H o l l a n d , are also excellent. T h i s
drink also dates back to the sixteenth century.

L I Q U E U R D'ANIS (lee-ker' dah-nee') S e e Anis, a b o v e .

N o t e that anis, pronounced ah-nees', comes from
S p a i n or S o u t h A m e r i c a , but that liqueur d'anis, p r o ­
nounced ah-nee', without the s sound, comes from
F r a n c e or, at least, bears the F r e n c h n a m e .

LIQUEUR D'OR See Danziger Goldwasser, above.

LIQUEUR JAUNE (zhone) An imitation of Yellow

Chartreuse.

L I Q U E U R S T R E G A (stray'-gah) A yellowish, citrus,

and highly aromatic proprietary liqueur m a d e by
185
 D i t t a G i u s e p p e Alberti of B e n e v e n t o , Italy. E x c e l l e n t
for blending in aromatic cocktails.

L I Q U E U R V E R T E (vairt) A n imitation of green C h a r -

treuse.
The word verte, meaning green, is sometimes
written vert (pronounced vair). This is incorrect. "Li-
queur" is a French word of feminine gender and the
adjective must agree in gender with the substantive
which it modifies.

M A N D A R I N E • M A N D A R I N E T T E A citrus liqueur fla-

v o r e d w i t h the peel of tangerines. N o t e also that there
is a n aromatic apéritif w i n e bearing the same n a m e .
See p a g e 7 0 .

MARASCHINO (mare-as-kee'-no) • MARASQUIN

(mare-as-keN') A very sweet white liqueur flavored
w i t h the w i l d black m a r a s c a cherries g r o w n in D a l -
m a t i a . F r u i t a n d seeds or pits are crushed together in
m a k i n g this liqueur. E x c e l l e n t for use in Sour-type
cocktails in place of sugar w h e r e just a faint sug-
gestion of a flavor that is "different" is desired. Blends
perfectly w i t h other fruit flavors—apricot, peach,
cherry, raspberry, etc.

M A Z A R I N E (maz-a-reen') A slightly aromatic citrus

liqueur based on a special, supposedly secret, formula.

MONASTIQUE (mon-as-teek') A n imitation of Bene-

dictine.

N E C T A R O F T O K A Y A moderately sweet aromatic

liqueur m a d e by Z w a c k of B u d a p e s t a n d resembling
L i q u e u r Strega. I t even has a t w i g in the bottle, like
Strega.

NOYAUX See Crème de Noyaux, above.

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ORANGE LIQUEUR A sweet citrus liqueur m a d e w i t h
a g r a p e - b r a n d y base and flavored with oranges.

O R G E A T (or-zhah') A sweet, non-alcoholic, a l m o n d -

flavored syrup. Blends well in Sour-type cocktails a n d
is the perfect c o m p a n i o n to rum, especially w h i t e
Cuban rum.

O U Z O (oo'-zo) A n anise-flavored liqueur made in

Greece.

P A R F A I T A M O U R ( p a r - f a y ' tah-moor') S a m e as crème

de violette, a b o v e .

PEACH L I Q U E U R • PÊCHE (pesh) S i m i l a r to apricot

liqueur, above, but flavored w i t h peaches instead of
apricots. T h e r e is also a dry p e a c h b r a n d y called
pêche.

PEPPERMINT • PIPPERMINT A p e p p e r m i n t syrup sel-

d o m used in this country but highly p o p u l a r in F r e n c h
cocktail recipes. C r è m e de menthe, while differing
s o m e w h a t from pippermint, can be substituted w i t h
reasonably satisfactory results. T h e best-known b r a n d
of pippermint is that m a d e b y G e t Frères of F r a n c e .

PRUNELLA • PRUNELLE A dark, sweet liqueur w i t h

a g r a p e - b r a n d y base flavored w i t h fresh plums. N o t to
be confused w i t h a n y of the p l u m or p r u n e brandies,
such as mirabelle, quetsche, a n d slivovitz.

ROCK A N D R Y E J u s t plain old-fashioned rye w h i s k y

(usually about 5 0 per cent) m i x e d w i t h fruit juices a n d
rock candy (crystallized s u g a r ) . I n m y boyhood days
in the country this w a s a favorite cough a n d cold
remedy, even w i t h those w h o frowned on liquor as the
devil's broth. A n d , oh boy, h o w the d e a r old p r o h i b i -
tionists did look f o r w a r d to getting a cold!
187
S L O E GIN A heavy, aromatic liqueur flavored with
sloeberries—a kind of small, w i l d p l u m .

S O U T H E R N C O M F O R T A proprietary liqueur whose e x ­

cellence is attested by its numerous imitators. S u p ­
posedly a secret formula but has a base of excellent
bourbon whisky, peach-flavored. O n e h u n d r e d proof
a n d reasonably dry. M a k e s a n excellent M a n h a t t a n
(but g o easy on the v e r m o u t h ) , O l d - F a s h i o n e d , or
Whisky Sour. If you find it too sweet, use a smaller
quantity a n d a d d straight bourbon.

STREGA See Liqueur Strega, above.

SWEDISH PUNCH S e e Arrack Punsch, above.

T R I P L E SEC A n imitation C o i n t r e a u .

VAN D E R H U M A n excellent aromatic a n d citrus

liqueur m a d e by the U n i o n of S o u t h Africa, C a p e of
G o o d H o p e . T h e citrus flavor is from tangerine peel.
Blends perfectly with brandy.

VIEILLE CURE (vee'-ya kewr) A n excellent a r o m a t i c

liqueur m a d e b y L ' A b b a y e de C e n o n , B o r d e a u x ,
F r a n c e . A w o r t h y c o m p a n i o n of the other two great
liqueurs h a v i n g a religious p a r e n t a g e — B e n e d i c t i n e
a n d Chartreuse.
Please note that there is no accent m a r k o v e r the
e in Cure. I t is pronounced kewr, not k e w - r a y ' . T h e
n a m e means the O l d V i c a r a g e , not the O l d C u r a t e .
I n fact, V i e i l l e C u r é is an impossible phrase because
Vieille is feminine—as is Cure—whereas C u r é is m a s ­
culine. T h e O l d C u r a t e w o u l d be V i e u x C u r é .

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 8
THE USE AND ABUSE OF LIQUOR

Overindulgence

I t is a striking fact that those things which, properly

controlled a n d used, constitute the greatest of boons
to m a n k i n d c a n be seriously injurious w h e n a l l o w e d
to get out of h a n d . F i r e , for e x a m p l e , is a n absolute
essential to m o d e m living. F i r e heats our houses i n
w i n t e r ; fire cooks o u r f o o d ; fire, in the form of r a p i d
explosions of gas, runs o u r automobiles, o u r airplanes,
our steamships, a n d o u r trains; fire furnishes the
energy that turns the wheels of most of o u r industrial
plants. Without fire w e w o u l d either die or revert to
the primitive s a v a g e , eating r a w foods a n d living in
caves. Y e t fire a n n u a l l y destroys millions of dollars'
w o r t h of property a n d kills a n d injures thousands of
persons.
Electricity lights our buildings a n d o u r streets,
energizes o u r r a d i o , telephone, a n d telegraph, washes
a n d irons o u r clothes, operates countless household
gadgets a n d implements, ignites the fuel t h a t propels
our vehicles, performs a thousand tasks both in in­
dustry a n d in private life that otherwise w o u l d con­
sume millions of w e a r y man-hours of labor. Y e t in­
stant death lurks in the innocent-looking cord that
connects our r e a d i n g l a m p , our toaster, or our radio,

189
a n d countless conflagrations, large and small, are
traced to "defective w i r i n g . "
T h e v e r y medicines that save thousands of lives
w h e n properly administered in the treatment of dis­
ease m a y cause prolonged a g o n y a n d even death w h e n
taken in excessive doses or otherwise improperly used.
T h i s fact is by no means limited to medicines that are
c o m m o n l y k n o w n as poisons, such as arsenic, bro­
mine, strychnine, etc. I t is also true of m a n y simple
standard h o m e remedies such as aspirin, castor oil,
a n d various c o u g h syrups. E v e n ordinary sodium bi­
carbonate or b a k i n g soda, so extensively used as a
home r e m e d y for acid indigestion, if taken habitually,
will actually increase acidity a n d m a y cause extensive
d a m a g e to the entire digestive tract.
T h e s a m e is true of foods. A deficiency of one kind
of food in a n individual's diet is usually a c c o m p a n i e d
by a n excess of some other kind, a n d the t w o dietetic
errors combine to induce digestive disturbances a n d
either temporary or even chronic ill health. A n ex­
cess of starches, of sugars, of proteins, or of fats can
cause serious bodily injury. E v e n the most perfect of
foods, taken a t the w r o n g time, m a y cause consider­
able discomfort. T h i s is commonly erroneously at­
tributed by the victim to some p a r t i c u l a r item of his
meal. " I t must h a v e been something I et." A c t u a l l y ,
most acute digestive disturbances a r e brought on by
eating w h e n very tired, w h e n subject to h i g h nervous
tension, or w h e n , for a n y other reason, the digestive
organs a r e u n a b l e properly to perform their appointed
task, a n d are not due to a n y one food that w a s eaten.
L i q u o r , of course, is no exception to the universal
rule that extreme discomfort a n d even p e r m a n e n t
injury m a y result from i m p r o p e r use of that w h i c h is
otherwise entirely harmless a n d even wholesome a n d
beneficial. U n b i a s e d medical investigators agree that
there is no evidence w h a t s o e v e r that w e l l - m a d e li­
quor, w h e n consumed in anything like normal a n d
reasonable amounts, is, of itself, harmful in the slight­
est degree. O n the contrary, it stimulates the appetite,

190
 promotes digestion, refreshes through relaxation, acts
as a specific in many diseases, and will even maintain
life for a time when the body is incapable of assimilat­
ing food.

Popular Misbeliefs
There is probably no other comestible in the whole
world that has been so misunderstood and misrepre­
sented by both friend and foe as alcoholic liquor. On
the one hand, it does not cure or even relieve certain
conditions for which it is commonly supposed to be a
remedy and, on the other hand, it does not cause many
diseases for which it is frequently blamed. As an ex­
ample of conditions under which, contrary to popular
belief, alcohol should never be administered, there
may be mentioned snakebites and heat prostration
or other shock. The physiological action of alcohol is
the exact opposite of what a patient suffering from
either of these afflictions needs. An outstanding ex­
ample of a disease long erroneously attributed to al­
cohol is cirrhosis of the liver. In my younger days this
dread disease was popularly known as "beer liver."
Medical science has now completely acquitted liquor
of any demonstrable responsibility. It is true that more
drinkers than non-drinkers suffer from cirrhosis, but
that is merely because there are more drinkers than
non-drinkers. By the same token there is more cir­
rhosis among right-handed people than among left-
handed; more among people who eat three meals a
day than among those who eat only one. On the other
hand, such statistics as have been collected by medical
authorities indicate that there is a somewhat higher
percentage of cirrhosis among non-drinkers than
among drinkers. This does not mean that liquor helps
prevent cirrhosis. Apparently there is no relation of
cause and effect whatsoever. It is purely fortuitous.
The fact remains, however, that it is true.

191
Does Alcohol Warm the Body?
A n o t h e r p o p u l a r fallacy is that alcohol w a r m s the
body. Its actual effect is the exact opposite. Alcohol
partially inhibits the action of the vasoconstrictors,
causing a dilation of the blood vessels a n d a rushing of
the blood to the small vessels on the surface of the
body. T h i s , in a w a r m atmosphere or one that is
moderately cool, gives a purely superficial feeling of
w a r m t h . I n a cold atmosphere, h o w e v e r , this rush of
blood to the surface causes h e a t to be g i v e n off by the
body m u c h faster than it is generated, w i t h the result
that the whole body is m o r e quickly chilled. Despite
the i m m e d i a t e feeling of w a r m t h after one or two
drinks a n d despite the increased perspiration w h i c h
the liquor induces, alcohol actually lowers the tem­
perature of the body. I t is therefore frequently used
as a diaphoretic a n d febrifuge. Alcoholic beverages
are most useful in the tropics; they m a y be extremely
dangerous in the arctic. U p o n returning to a w a r m
room after exposure to cold, a good, stiff drink, espe­
cially a hot drink, m a y be most helpful i n strengthen­
ing the heartbeat a n d bringing a w a r m g l o w to the
skin. L i q u o r taken before going out in the cold, h o w ­
ever, will l o w e r the body's resistance to the exposure.

Alcohol, the Inevitable Concomitant of Progress

T h r o u g h o u t the ages alcohol has been the h a n d ­
m a i d e n of religion, of philosophy, of science a n d in­
vention, a n d of culture a n d appreciation of the finer
things of life. F r o m time i m m e m o r i a l poets h a v e sung
praises of the c u p that cheers. W i n e is deeply en­
trenched in ceremonials of both the J e w i s h a n d the
C h r i s t i a n church. T h e Bible is replete w i t h references
to liquor, a n d b y no means are all of t h e m depreca­
tory. W i n e w a s served at the L a s t S u p p e r , a n d Christ
himself did not deem it beneath his dignity to trans­
m u t e w a t e r into wine in order that those w h o at­
tended the w e d d i n g feast might be refreshed a n d

192
 cheered. History reveals that the contributions to
human progress made by those nations and by those
religious cults that feature total abstinence are infin­
itesimal compared with those made by drinking
peoples. Search the records of this or any other coun­
try and you will find that, for the most part, the out­
standing statesmen, generals, poets, philosophers,
scientists—the leaders in every field of human en­
deavor—have been men who drank. In the main,
they have been men who drank as they ate—in moder­
ation—but a surprisingly large number have been
what might aptly be called "two-fisted drinkers."
History affords a complete refutation of the prohibi­
tionist theory that alcohol stifles initiative and in­
hibits progress.
Despite all this, it must be freely admitted that
overindulgence in alcohol, either sporadic or chronic,
produces undesirable results, both physical and social.
Physically, an overdose of alcohol precipitates the
pepsin content of the gastric juices, producing exces­
sive secretion of mucus (gastric catarrh), hyperacidity,
nausea, and vomiting. The "hang-over" is character­
ized by a "big head," bloodshot eyes, throbbing
temples, a volcanic stomach, and a cotton mouth—
the "dark brown taste of the morning after." It would
seem that, for a normal human being, whatever
pleasure—if it be a pleasure—can be derived from
tanking up to the point of complete inebriety would
be more than offset by the drastic punishment so
quickly and relentlessly imposed by nature, and that
one grisly experience of the resultant "heeby-jeebies"
should be more than enough for an entire lifetime.

Social Effects of Overindulgence

The social effects of overindulgence are even worse
than the physical. Alcohol acts on nerve tissue, in­
cluding the brain, quicker than on any of the other
organs. The immediate reaction (characteristic of
moderate drinking) is a faster response to stimuli,
193
q u i c k e r thinking, scintillating repartee, greater h u m o r
a n d geniality, a freer p l a y of the emotions. W i t h in­
creased doses, h o w e v e r , the b r a i n becomes anesthe­
tized, fatigue sets in, co-ordination fails, a n d eventu­
ally there is a m o r e or less complete inertia of both
b r a i n a n d muscle. Drunkenness, b y r e m o v i n g normal
inhibitions, m a y completely c h a n g e a m a n ' s character.
T h e bully m a y become a w e a k l i n g ; the shy recluse, a
b r a g g a r t . T h e ugly drunk a n d the drooling, sniveling
drunk a r e equally obnoxious. H e r e a g a i n it w o u l d seem
that the vicarious experience just once of seeing
another h u m a n being completely "blotto" should be
sufficient to engender a firm a n d unbreakable resolu­
tion n e v e r to take a c h a n c e on m a k i n g a similarly dis­
gusting spectacle of oneself.
F o r the n o r m a l , intelligent h u m a n being, h o w e v e r ,
the evil effects of overindulgence a r e n o better a r g u ­
ment against n o r m a l drinking t h a n the d a n g e r of
electrocution is against the use of electrical equipment,
or the d a n g e r of a conflagration against keeping a fire
to cook one's meals or to heat one's house. C h r o n i c
alcoholism is a disease a n d , for the most part, a disease
p e c u l i a r to the mentally unstable. T h e r e is no more
reason for drinking to the point of drunkenness t h a n
there is for eating to the point of gluttony. D r i n k i n g ,
like eating, affords real pleasure only u p to a certain
point. T h e discriminating drinker, the m a n w h o fully
appreciates the bouquet, the a r o m a , the delightful
aftertaste of a rare vintage wine, of a pedigreed
cognac, of a ripe, m e l l o w bourbon, or of a superb
liqueur, knows that after a certain n u m b e r of drinks
(the e x a c t quantity v a r y i n g w i t h the i n d i v i d u a l ) the
exquisite c h a r a c t e r of the liquor can n o longer be fully
savored. H e refuses either to waste good liquor by
consuming it w h e n unable to a p p r e c i a t e a n d enjoy
it to the utmost or to insult the cause of intelligent a n d
cultured drinking by imbibing for the degenerate
purpose of getting a kick out of the alcoholic content.
T h e r e are, of course, a few (but, luckily, a very
few) unfortunate individuals so extraordinarily sensi-

194
 tive to alcohol that, to them, a single drink is a
knockout. There are others—also, fortunately, few—
with whom a single drink seems to create an insatiable
desire for more and more and yet more. To such
persons there is but one sensible answer, and that is
not to drink at all. True, they must miss a great deal
of the relaxation and enjoyment that is granted to
the average, healthy, normal person. This, however,
is equally true of the person who, because of some
digestive deficiency or some allergy, is not permitted
to eat strawberry shortcake, or corn on the cob, or sea
food, or a charcoal-broiled steak smothered in mush­
rooms.

H o w to Keep Sober
But how, you may ask, is the average person to know
exactly how many drinks he can stand? Should he go
on just one good binge and have a record kept of how
much he consumes in order that thereafter he may
know when to stop? My answer is "No." It is best that
you never find out the limit of your capacity. There is
just one safe and simple rule which, if rigidly adhered
to, will afford you a maximum of pleasure in your
drinking with a minimum of danger of ever becoming
drunk. When you reach a point where you feel abso­
lutely sure that you could stand one more but have
some slight doubt as to what two more might do to
you, STOP. If you resolutely refuse to take even
the one extra that you are certain would be O.K., you
will maintain your physical stability, your mental
balance, and your moral aplomb.
There may, however, come a time in your life when
you know that, at the fiftieth reunion of the Class of
Naughty Naught or at a stag dinner given in honor
of some old crony, you will be expected to drink a lot
more than you really want to drink and more than you
can normally carry with safety. Is there any advance
preparation that may enable you to withstand the
onslaught of those two or three (or perhaps more)
195
drinks that, under ordinary circumstances, you w o u l d
not think of taking? C h e e r up. T h e r e is.
I h a v e already pointed out the fact t h a t alcohol has
a p e c u l i a r affinity for nerve tissue a n d therefore affects
the nervous system before a n y other organs. T h i s is
because it is absorbed by the tissues of the stomach
a n d intestines a n d passes directly into the blood stream
u n c h a n g e d or i n the form of a n aldehyde—i.e., robbed
of a p a r t of its o x y g e n . N o w , if w e c a n prevent the
liquor from c o m i n g into direct contact w i t h the w a l l s
of the alimentary tract, w e shall prevent the alcohol
from being taken u p a n d passed into the blood stream.
T h e r e are t w o methods of partially accomplishing this
result. O n e is by absorption a n d the other by insula­
tion.
T h e absorption method consists of filling the
s t o m a c h w i t h food so that w h e n the alcohol reaches
the stomach, instead of being churned a r o u n d by itself
a n d w a s h i n g the entire stomach lining w i t h liquor, a
large p a r t of the alcohol is absorbed b y the food. W h a t
then comes in direct contact w i t h the cellular tissue
that is so e a g e r to drink u p the alcohol a n d pass it on
to the blood is not the alcoholic liquor but food w i t h
a relatively small alcoholic content. E a c h square inch
of stomach w a l l is covered, not w i t h a square i n c h of
alcoholic liquid, but with a square inch of food con­
taining perhaps 2 or 1 p e r cent or e v e n less of alcohol.
T h e best foods for this absorptive process are proteins
— p a r t i c u l a r l y lean m e a t a n d e g g s — a n d w h o l e milk.
G o easy on the starches a n d , above all, shun all sweets.
S u g a r not only does not mitigate the effect of alcohol;
it intensifies it.
Obviously, if this riotous affair is to be a dinner
a n d a l a r g e p a r t of the drinking is to be done before
the food is served, you cannot v e r y well fill u p before­
h a n d w i t h sirloin steak, custard, a n d milk. I n that
case y o u must rely on the insulation method. T h i s
method depends, first, upon the fact that alcohol and
oil will not m i x and, second, u p o n the tendency of fats
of a n y kind to adhere to the walls of the stomach a n d

196
 form a thin film which repels the alcohol and keeps it
away from the mucous membrane. Taking liquor into
an empty stomach is like pouring water over a sponge;
taking liquor into a stomach that has first been given
an oil bath is like covering the sponge with a sheet of
cellophane and then pouring on the water. Olive oil is
best for this purpose—two ounces or more taken per­
haps fifteen or twenty minutes before the orgy begins.
If you chance to be one of those perverted individuals
who do not like this sweet, nutty oil from the sunny
slopes of Spain, you can substitute any other vegetable
oil commonly sold as a salad oil.
Don't get the foolish notion that either the absorp­
tion method or the insulation method or even both
in combination will enable you to consume two or
three quarts of liquor and go home as sober as when
the party began. These precautions will merely reduce
to some extent the effect of the alcohol; they will not
wholly eliminate it. And, of course, as the food in
your stomach becomes more and more saturated with
liquor and as the coating of fat over the stomach
lining is gradually churned into the other stomach
contents and passed on to the intestines, the preven­
tive value of the treatment is gradually lessened.

Before leaving the subject of the sensible use of

liquor, there are two or three further scientific facts
that I should like to bring out and at least one super­
stitious folly that I should like to explode.

I. Is alcohol essential to life?

I do not know whether any scientist has ever tried to
dealcoholize the human blood in order to ascertain
whether life would still continue or not. It is a fact,
however, that the blood of every human being does
contain alcohol, and this is just as true of a Carrie
Nation or a Pussyfoot Johnson as it is of the Old Soak.
The amount is not large. It is measured in thousandths
197
 of a p e r cent. N o w it is not necessary to drink alcohol
i n order to keep the blood supplied w i t h this essential
ingredient. A l l that is necessary is to eat a reasonable
quantity of carbohydrates a n d the body itself will
convert them into alcohol. T h e h u m a n b o d y is a n
extraordinarily efficient chemical laboratory. I t m a n u ­
factures a long a r r a y of pharmaceuticals. S o m e of
these, like the saliva a n d pepsin, are harmless drugs.
Others, such as adrenalin, pituitrin, and bile are defi­
nitely poisonous a n d , if taken in sufficient doses, could
cause serious illness or even death.
A l c o h o l is one of the more innocuous secretions
c o m p o u n d e d within the h u m a n body. W h e n e v e r I
h e a r some rabid prohibitionist ranting about the evils
of alcohol a n d urging the smashing of every still in the
world, I cannot help wondering if he realizes that
within his o w n body he carries a miniature still w h i c h ,
despite his vociferous ululations a n d despite all the
laws he w o u l d like to see passed, will keep right on
distilling out its daily stint of alcohol until the d a y he
dies!

2. Is alcohol a stimulant?

T h i s is a n extremely difficult question to answer. T h e

initial effect of alcohol, at least in small doses, is that
of a stimulant. T h e frequency of respiration is stepped
up. T h e strength of the systolic contraction of the
heart is increased, resulting in a full, strong, r e g u l a r
pulse. T h e nerves respond more quickly to stimuli.
E v e r y symptom is typical of reaction to a stimulant.
I n larger doses, h o w e v e r , the effect is that of a sedative
rather than a stimulant. I n excessive doses, as has
already been stated, the effect is that of a n irritant,
producing hyperacidity a n d acute fatigue. I t w o u l d
seem that the restful, refreshing effect of one or two
good drinks is due, not to stimulation, but rather to
relaxation. T i r e d muscles a n d tense nerves relax and
are rested, w h i c h is really the e x a c t opposite of being
stimulated a n d prodded into further activity.

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3. Is liquor fattening?
This also is a tough one to answer. Alcohol, in itself,
cannot possibly produce fat, yet those who drink in
any substantial quantity are likely to put on fat, and
they can control their weight to a considerable degree
by abstaining from liquor for periods of three or four
weeks at a time. This may sound paradoxical, but the
explanation is entirely logical. Alcohol is an energy-
producing food of high caloric value. It is the most
readily assimilable of any food that can possibly be
taken into the body, since it requires no digestive
process or effort whatsoever. It furnishes about seven
calories of energy per gram, which is approximately
equal to the caloric value of butter, is twice that of
heavy cream or granulated sugar, is five times that of
lean meat, and is ten times that of whole milk.
You will therefore readily see that it does not take
a very great number of cocktails to supply all the
calories that are necessary for an individual leading a
sedentary life. Unfortunately, however, man cannot
live by calories alone. He must have proteins, carbo­
hydrates, fats, vitamins, minerals, and a certain
amount of bulk. In order to get these other essentials
he must eat other foods. These additional foods
furnish additional calories, in excess of what the sys­
tem needs and can work off, and these excess calories
are stored up in the form of fat—with most people,
principally around the midriff.

4. Is mixing drinks fatal?

Of all the stupid superstitions that prevail respecting
the use of liquor, this one seems to be the most per­
sistent and the most widespread. If you start with gin,
you must stick to gin; if you start with rum, you must
stick to rum, and so on. That this belief has no founda­
tion whatsoever in fact has been definitely determined
by medical investigators, and their findings have been
widely publicized, not only in the official journal of
199
the American Medical Association, but also in other
magazines. Apparently many people either have not
read these articles or else, reading and knowing the
truth, they still refuse to accept it. To authoritative
medical assurance on this point I can also add my own
personal experience of some forty years. When drink­
ing at a bar where variety is available I would no
more think of taking four or five—or even two—cock­
tails of the same kind than I would think of ordering,
for an entire dinner, four or five plates of soup, or four
or five servings of roast beef, or four or five cuts of
chocolate pie. My many friends who have drunk with
me on numerous occasions of this kind can testify that
shifting from a Martini to an Old-Fashioned, then
to a Daiquiri, and finishing with a Side Car has had
no more effect on me than would four drinks of the
same kind. Actually, the following are the points that
will determine how your drinks affect you—and by
"affect" I mean either by inducing partial mental or
physical paralysis (actual "drunkenness") or by up­
setting the digestive system with accompanying dis­
comfort, nausea, and possible vomiting:
First of all is your own individual susceptibility to
alcohol. One man may be completely befuddled by a
single cocktail; another may drink eight or ten with
impunity.
Second, and closely allied to the first point, is your
physical condition, especially the condition of your
alimentary tract. I have already explained the effect
of food, particularly fats, proteins, and milk, on your
susceptibility to alcohol. Your general state of health
also has a profound influence on your capacity.
Strangely enough, however, you may be more quickly
affected by alcohol when in the pink of condition and
ready to fight your weight in wildcats than when
suffering from certain diseases. Any disease that slows
down the activity of the digestive organs also slows
down the rapidity with which alcohol will be absorbed
in the stomach and intestines and passed into the
blood stream. Moreover, certain types of influenza are

200
characterized by intestinal catarrh. T h e mucus then
adheres to the lining of the digestive tract a n d insulates
it against alcohol very m u c h the same as olive oil or
other fats will furnish such insulation. I h a v e already
pointed out that excessive doses of alcohol m a y give
rise to a n intestinal c a t a r r h ; that is nature's method
of insulating a n d protecting the system against such
overdoses.
T h i r d , y o u r m e n t a l attitude, as well as y o u r physical
condition, will h a v e a pronounced influence on y o u r
reaction to the m i x e d drinks. Y o u m a y be familiar
w i t h the old practical joke in w h i c h , pursuant to a
p r e a r r a n g e d plan, w h e n the innocent v i c t i m arrives
a t his office in the m o r n i n g a perfect picture of glow­
ing health, the pranksters, one after another, extend
their sympathy, tell him h o w pale a n d w o r n out he
looks, a n d so on, until finally he has to g o home a n d
to bed. T h i s is purely psychological, the result of the
p o w e r of suggestion, but it is none the less real to the
victim. A n d autosuggestion can be just as powerful
as a n y other kind. Drunkenness is primarily a mental
affliction in a n y event. If y o u are thoroughly con­
v i n c e d that you can get drunk on milk, y o u probably
c a n get drunk on milk. A n d if y o u c a n get drunk on
milk, of course y o u can get drunk by m i x i n g gin a n d
whisky a n d rum. B u t it will be y o u r silly belief in a
thoroughly exploded superstition that causes y o u r
drunkenness a n d not the fact that you m i x e d y o u r
drinks.
S o m u c h for your side of the equation. O n the
liquor side, of course, the all-important question is
the quantity of proof alcohol consumed. If y o u take a
3-ounce drink of bonded bourbon, w h i c h is 1 0 0 proof,
y o u h a v e consumed 1 1/2 ounces of p u r e alcohol. T h e
same quantity of 87-proof gin means 1 1/3 ounces of
alcohol. T h e use of citrus juices, aromatic wines, etc.,
in the cocktail, of course, reduces proportionately the
a m o u n t of alcoholic content. B u t , g i v e n a certain
quantity of alcohol, it does not m a k e the slightest bit
of difference w h e t h e r that alcohol is taken in the

201
form of whisky, gin, rum, brandy, or any other dry,
spirituous liquor, either separately or in any com­
bination you may choose.
There is just one exception to this well-established
principle. For some reason that medical science has
not yet been able to fathom, there are some individuals
whose systems simply will not tolerate certain liquors,
just as there are some individuals who are allergic to
certain foods. Nine times out of ten this is pure imagi­
nation. A man has Manhattan cocktails and a lobster
dinner and later suffers an attack of acute indigestion.
He invariably looks for a whipping boy. He may blame
it on the lobster; he may blame it on the whisky; or he
may blame it on the Italian vermouth. Probably he
took his meal when he was tired or nervously upset
and simply unable properly to digest and assimilate
any food whatsoever. The particular food—or drink—
had nothing whatsoever to do with his upset. Neverthe­
less, there still remain a substantial number of cases
where the repugnance to certain liquors is genuine. I
personally have trouble with certain red wines—in­
cluding some of my favorites, such as Chambertin.
I also have to be extremely cautious about drinking
brandy—including cognac, of which I am extremely
fond. These liquors do not make me drunk, nor do
they cause any nausea, but they do cause severe
stomach-burn. All these cases are purely individual
idiosyncrasies and, of course, they have nothing what­
soever to do with mixing different types of liquor.
Finally, there is one caution to be observed respect­
ing the kind of liquors consumed ( a n d , of course, in
all I a m saying, I assume that the liquors are pure,
wholesome, a n d well m a d e ) . I h a v e already called
attention to the d a n g e r of consuming large quantities
of sugar in combination w i t h alcohol. A m a n drinks,
let us say, one 5 0 - 5 0 M a n h a t t a n , one standard-recipe
A l e x a n d e r , a n d one standard-recipe Stinger, after
w h i c h he suffers violent indigestion a n d nausea. Per­
haps he becomes d o w n r i g h t drunk. Of course he
blames " m i x i n g ' e m . " Well, n o w o n d e r he gets sick!

202
H i s M a n h a t t a n w a s half sweet w i n e ; his A l e x a n d e r
w a s one-third syrupy, sickish-sweet crème de c a c a o ;
a n d his Stinger w a s half crème de menthe—also a
sweet, h e a v y cordial. B u t it w a s n ' t m i x i n g his drinks
that did it. I f he h a d h a d three Stingers he w o u l d
probably h a v e been twice as sick, and if he h a d h a d
the same quantity of straight crème de m e n t h e he
m i g h t well h a v e been three times as sick. W o u l d you
think of sitting d o w n a n d drinking three cocktail
glasses of honey or of m a p l e syrup? W o u l d n ' t y o u
expect to be sick if y o u d i d ? A n d a sugar-alcohol
combination is even worse.
Cordials are utterly delightful after-dinner drinks.
T h e s e are served in a liqueur glass w h i c h holds about
3/4 ounce—about half the a m o u n t y o u will get in one
Stinger. S e l d o m does one take m o r e t h a n one of these
small glasses of a n y liqueur, a n d if the slogan " N o
more t h a n two to a customer" w a s e v e r appropriate
for a n y drink, it is here. L i q u e u r s are also excellent
in place of sugar in a cocktail, b u t w h e n so used the
quantity should seldom, if ever, exceed one or t w o
teaspoonfuls to a drink. I f you w a n t to h a v e a good,
thorough, disgusting, reeling, puking drunk, a n d get
that w a y as fast as possible, m y a d v i c e is to get a bottle
of a n y heavy, sweet liqueur, such as crème de m e n t h e
or Parfait A m o u r or liqueur verte, a n d take it straight!
Don't mix!
T h a t , mes amis, is one reason w h y the cocktails I
recommend are always dry. T h e other reason, of
course, is their superior flavor. N o t e m y standard
1 - 2 - 8 S o u r recipe. Never anything like 1 - 1 - 1 . G o d
forbid! Frequently, at one of m y cocktail parties, some
friend will say to m e (especially the ladies—bless their
d e a r little innocent, misguided h e a r t s ) : " G o o d lord,
D a v e , but y o u m a k e y o u r cocktails strong!" T h e y say
that while they are drinking them, not t w o hours later.
F o r never, since I learned years a g o w h a t makes a
cocktail tick, never has anyone become sick on cock-
tails m a d e a n d served b y m e — n o t even after four or
five or even m o r e of t h e m !

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 9
JUDGING LIQUOR

Professional liquor tasting—both of wines and of

spirits—is a highly skilled art requiring a n exception­
ally discriminating sense both of smell a n d of taste.
Y o u m a y h a v e h e a r d the story of t w o experts, both of
w h o m agreed that a certain hogshead of whisky w a s
off flavor. H o w e v e r , one insisted t h a t it tasted of
leather a n d the other c l a i m e d that the taste w a s that
of iron. F i n a l l y the cask w a s drained a n d , in the
bottom, there w a s found one small leather-covered
upholstery tack!
F e w c a n hope to attain a n y such sensitivity to
c o m p o n e n t flavors, n o r is that at all necessary for a
full appreciation a n d enjoyment of the best in liquors.
O n the other h a n d , the m a n to w h o m liquor is just
liquor—the m a n w h o doesn't care w h e t h e r his whisky
is a b o n d e d straight whisky or a 2 0 - p e r - c e n t blend,
o r w h e t h e r his c o g n a c is t w o years old o r twenty, so
long as it has plenty of alcoholic strength—is missing
the real j o y of drinking a n d is w a s t i n g his m o n e y w h e n
he buys a n y alcoholic b e v e r a g e other t h a n pure r a w
alcohol. F u r t h e r m o r e , he is i n g r a v e d a n g e r of be­
c o m i n g a n alcoholic. If he is truly wise, he will stop
drinking entirely.

204
 The average man can, however, acquire sufficient
discrimination to distinguish readily between liquors
that are good, those that are indifferent, and those
that are definitely bad. By learning to do so he will
increase his enjoyment of real quality products many-
fold. He can also, if he will, save money as well, for,
while he may pay more per bottle for what he buys,
he will get more real gustatorial delight out of one
bottle of high-quality liquor than he now gets out of
five or ten bottles of the cheaper product. And now
for the method by which you can test your liquors
for yourself.
Use a small glass, preferably with a wide bottom
and a small mouth. A small brandy snifter—from two
to four ounces—is excellent. Pour into the glass a
small quantity of the liquor—not more than a table-
spoonful, preferably less. Hold the glass in the cupped
hands to warm both glass and liquor. It is an excellent
idea to preheat the glass with hot water, then dry it,
and to have the liquor at room temperature. Twirl
the glass to spread the liquor over as much of the
inside surface as possible, thereby bringing a large
area of it in contact with the air and helping to
vaporize the volatile ingredients. Then, holding the
glass in the cupped hand, sniff for the odor. Sniff at
first gently, then swish the liquor around the glass
again and sniff vigorously. Do this several times, for
the odor may vary as the liquor in the glass gradually
becomes warmer. The odor should be full-bodied—not
thin—but it should produce no acrid "sting" in the
nasal passages.
Then take a very small sip—just a few drops—of
the liquor. Do not swallow this but roll it about the
tongue. Breathe in gently through the mouth, close
the lips, and exhale through the nose. Finally swallow.
By now, if it is really good liquor, you will probably
have to swallow because your mouth will be watering
for more! Do not take more, however, but note care­
fully how long the taste lingers after you first took
your sip. Note also whether the taste merely fades
205
out gradually with, perhaps, an even more delightful
flavor as it fades or whether the aftertaste is acrid or
musty or, in the case of liqueurs, sickish-sweet and
flavorless.
The flavor, like the odor, should be full-bodied, not
thin. It should be mellow and smooth and not harsh
or sharp. There should be no "tinny" flavor (particu­
larly noticeable in the case of poorly made gins). And
the taste should persist for a substantial length of
time. In the case of full-bodied, well-matured liquors,
the taste may last as long as four or five minutes! This
exquisitely delightful, long-lingering aftertaste is one
of the best tests of high quality. A raw, green liquor,
or one that consists merely of a small quantity of real
liquor blended with raw alcohol (neutral spirits) and
water, will first assault the palate with the force of a
charge of nitroglycerin, then quickly vanish, leaving
either no aftertaste whatsoever or one that is brackish
and disagreeable.
Finally, after the taste of the liquor has completely
disappeared, empty and drain the glass, warm it in
the hands again, and again note the odor. If it smells
at all woody, or tinny, or musty, or moldy, it is inferior
liquor. The residue of a well-made, well-aged liquor
should have the same mellow, appetizing appeal as
existed before the glass was drained.
Remember, in the case of liqueurs, that in cocktails
—as distinguished from taking a pony straight as an
after-dinner cordial—only a comparatively small
amount is used in each drink for incidental flavoring
and coloring. They are merely used as a substitute for
sugar or a fruit syrup. Therefore, so long as they are
well made and adequately flavored, there is no neces­
sity of their meeting the same critical test that you
should apply to a base liquor. Judge your liquor in the
light of the manner in which you are going to use it.
The best method of judging liquor is by comparison.
Before you can say with any assurance that a liquor
is exceptionally fine or only moderately good or rather
poor, you must have some standard by which to judge
206
it. T h e r e f o r e , particularly at the start, y o u should
test t w o brands or samples together, rinsing the m o u t h
thoroughly with w a r m w a t e r after testing one sample
a n d before trying the other.
Since whiskies a n d brandies a r e easier to test t h a n
gins or rums, I suggest that y o u start w i t h them. I also
suggest that y o u start w i t h t w o brands that differ
widely. Y o u will b e better able to pass c o m p a r a t i v e
j u d g m e n t o n t w o brands of closely similar excellence
later, but don't start off w i t h such a test o r y o u m a y
well become confused a n d give u p entirely. I there­
fore suggest that, w i t h Scotches, y o u c o m p a r e F u l -
strength or J o h n B e g g L i q u e u r or J o h n n i e W a l k e r
B l a c k L a b e l or H a i g & H a i g P i n c h Bottle w i t h C u t t y
S a r k o r J o h n n i e W a l k e r R e d L a b e l . W i t h ryes, c o m ­
p a r e M o u n t V e r n o n (if you are fortunate enough to
h a v e a n y of their old-time b o n d e d ) or O l d Overholt
or L a r g e ' s M o n o n g a h e l a w i t h O l d D r u m or T h r e e
Feathers. W i t h bourbons, c o m p a r e J a m e s E . P e p p e r
or O l d Forester or O l d T a y l o r w i t h O l d M r . Boston
or a n y bourbon blend. W i t h cognacs, c o m p a r e R é m y
M a r t i n V . S . O . P . or M o n n e t V . V . S . O . P . or C o u r v o i -
sier V . S . with Hennessy T h r e e S t a r o r w i t h any C a l i ­
fornia brandy.
A f t e r m a k i n g a f e w tests w i t h whiskies a n d brandies
you c a n try gins a n d rums. C o m p a r e Booth's House
of L o r d s or an imported G o r d o n with T h r e e Feathers
or O l d M r . Boston gins. C o m p a r e C u b a n B a c a r d i or
H a v a n a C l u b C u b a n rums with G o v e r n m e n t H o u s e .
I a m sorry that I cannot suggest a n y a p p l e brandies
for y o u to c o m p a r e because I k n o w of none on the
m a r k e t that I consider sufficiently m a t u r e to constitute
a satisfactory standard of excellence.
M a k e these tests w h e n e v e r y o u acquire a bottle of
a n e w b r a n d of liquor. C o m p a r e it w i t h a b r a n d that
you h a v e found y o u like. A f t e r y o u h a v e fully a c ­
quired the k n a c k of m a k i n g c o m p a r a t i v e tests, com­
p a r e a good, m a t u r e , full-bodied bourbon with a
Scotch. I f y o u n o w think y o u like C a n a d i a n whiskies,
c o m p a r e the bourbon w i t h one of them. A n d keep

207
some sort of record, e v e n if only a m e n t a l one, of the
results of y o u r tests from time to time. C o n t i n u a l test­
ing will greatly i m p r o v e y o u r j u d g m e n t a n d you m a y
well be surprised to see h o w y o u r tastes c h a n g e at the
same time.

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 10
SHORT DRINKS, INCLUDING
MORE COCKTAILS

T h e r e is only one reason for setting forth a n y further

cocktail recipes for the person w h o has learned to
"roll his o w n . " F o r the past fifteen years I doubt that I
h a v e looked at a recipe book m o r e t h a n once for every
h u n d r e d times I h a v e m a d e cocktails. H o w e v e r , from
time to time y o u will h e a r some good friend sing loud
praises o v e r the cocktail he h a d at some p a r t y called
the A l a m a g o o p u s B a z u n k or the Silly Streptococcus
a n d y o u m a y w a n t to find out w h e t h e r it is a standard
drink t h a t y o u n e v e r c h a n c e d to h e a r about a n d , if so,
h o w it is m a d e . I shall therefore try to g i v e y o u a list
of the m o r e c o m m o n l y k n o w n cocktails ( a n d a f e w
not so c o m m o n ) even though m a n y of t h e m are, in
m y opinion, decidedly inferior drinks. W h e r e the
usual recipes are b a d merely because they a r e too
sweet o r too c r e a m y or too something else t h a t I think
c a n be ironed out to some extent b y a slight c h a n g e in
the formula, I h a v e m a d e that c h a n g e . M a n y of t h e m
are intrinsically hopeless and, in such cases, I h a v e
g i v e n the usual recipe for w h a t e v e r it m a y be worth.
I n addition to m o r e cocktails, this c h a p t e r also
covers miscellaneous short drinks of various kinds from
after-dinner cordials—about 3/4 ounce to 1 o u n c e —
u p to Sours a n d similar drinks served in S o u r or
2og
 Delmonico glasses of 4 to 5 ounces. As a general
proposition, however, I am leaving for a later chapter
on long drinks all drinks containing any appreciable
quantity of carbonated beverages. True, some bars
may serve you a Rickey or a Highball in a Delmonico
glass. Nevertheless, the fact remains that the drink is,
inherently, a tall drink even though it is possible to
serve a reduced portion in a small glass.

ABSINTHE COCKTAIL
3 parts Absinthe
2 parts Water
1 teaspoonful Sugar Syrup to each drink
Shake with crushed ice. A twist of lemon over each
cocktail. Some recipes call for a dash of anisette.
If grenadine is substituted for the sugar syrup the
drink becomes the TOMATE (toh-maht'), so called
because of its tomato color. This is a popular French
variety of the Absinthe Cocktail.

ABSINTHE DRIP The proper preparation of this drink

requires an absinthe glass with a French drip top. Mix
1 teaspoonful sugar syrup and 1 jigger absinthe and
place in the glass. Fill the top with finely shaved ice
and water and, holding it high above the glass, let the
water drip into the glass until the absinthe turns first
milky, then cloudy and opalescent.

ABSINTHE FRAPPÉ
1 part Anisette
3 to 4 parts Absinthe
1 teaspoonful Sugar Syrup to each drink
Shake thoroughly with finely crushed or shaved ice.
There are several methods of serving this drink. One
method is to strain into an Old-Fashioned glass, add­
ing ice water, if necessary, to fill the glass. My favorite
210
 method is to pour, ice and all, into a saucer cham­
pagne glass and serve with short straws.

ABSINTHE, ITALIAN STYLE

1 part Anisette
3 to 4 parts Absinthe
1/2 teaspoonful Maraschino to each drink
Place ingredients in a bar glass with cracked ice. Pour
ice water slowly into glass until drink turns cloudy.
Stir and strain into cocktail glass.

ACACIA
1 part Benedictine
3 to 4 parts Gin
1 teaspoonful Kirsch to each drink
This cocktail could not have been named for my
fraternity, but it is worthy of it. The original recipe,
with a larger proportion of Benedictine, won the first
prize at the championship cocktail contest at Biarritz
in 1928. It can be still further improved by adding 2
parts of lemon juice and another 3 to 4 parts of gin.

ADAM AND EVE

1 part Forbidden Fruit
1 part Cognac
1 part Gin
Shake. This cocktail is improved by adding a small
amount of lemon or lime juice.

ADMIRAL
1 part Cherry Heering
2 parts Lime Juice
8 parts Gin
Shake with cracked ice.
211
A F T E R - D I N N E R CORDIALS

F o r a complete list of cordials or liqueurs, see C h a p t e r

7. A s a n after-dinner drink, these are served in a
small liqueur glass a n d at room temperature.
T h e ladies usually like the sweet liqueurs, such as
crème de c a c a o , A p r y , P a r f a i t A m o u r , etc. M o s t m e n
prefer the highly aromatic liqueurs, such as B e n e -
dictine, C h a r t r e u s e , D r a m b u i e , etc. M e n also like the
v e r y dry fruit brandies, such as Himbergeist ( Z w a c k ' s
raspberry b r a n d y ) , kirschwasser, etc. T h u s , normally,
the ladies w o u l d prefer a n apricot liqueur whereas the
m e n w o u l d prefer a n apricot brandy.
T h e fruit brandies m a y be served in a liqueur glass,
the same as cordials.
C o r d i a l s a r e also sometimes served as F r a p p é s . S e c
Frappés, page 2 5 1 .
C e r t a i n of the cordials a r e sometimes blended half
a n d half w i t h another spirituous liquor such as B & B
(Benedictine & Brandy) a n d D & S (Drambuie &
Scotch). F o r the latter, use a liqueur Scotch, such as
Fulstrength.

AKVAVIT 'N' BITTERS I t has a l r e a d y been pointed out

o n p a g e 60 that a k v a v i t should b e chilled in the
bottle, served in pre-chilled glasses, a n d not diluted
b y shaking w i t h ice.
Nevertheless, m a n y A m e r i c a n s like a dash of bitters
w i t h the a k v a v i t . T h e best method is to put a dash of
bitters in each glass, twirl the glass to coat the sides
w i t h the bitters, shake out the excess, then p o u r in
the pre-chilled a k v a v i t .

ALAMAGOOZLUM

1 p a r t Bitters
1 p a r t Curaçao
3 parts S u g a r S y r u p
3 parts Y e l l o w C h a r t r e u s e
3 parts J a m a i c a R u m
212
 4 parts H o l l a n d G i n
4 parts W a t e r
1 E g g W h i t e to e a c h 4 or 5 drinks

S h a k e with c r a c k e d or crushed ice.

T h i s cocktail is supposed to h a v e been a specialty
of the elder M o r g a n of the H o u s e of M o r g a n , w h i c h
goes to p r o v e that as a bartender he w a s a n excellent
banker.

ALASKA

1 part Yellow Chartreuse

5 to 7 parts G i n

Stir. A twist of lemon over each drink. N o t e that this

is merely a D r y M a r t i n i w i t h Chartreuse in p l a c e of
v e r m o u t h . B e c a u s e of the sweetness of the Chartreuse,
a larger proportion of gin m a y be used than w i t h the
Dry Martini.
T h i s is also sometimes called the O R I E N T A L . I t c a n
be greatly i m p r o v e d by using less C h a r t r e u s e a n d a d d -
ing 1 or 2 parts dry sherry. T h i s is the N O M E .

ALEXANDER

1 part Sweet C r e a m
1 p a r t C r è m e de C a c a o
4 parts G i n

S h a k e w i t h c r a c k e d ice.
T h e a b o v e is a modified A l e x a n d e r t h a t can be
consumed w i t h reasonable safety before a m e a l , al-
though w h y anyone should take it if dry cocktails are
available, I w o u l d n ' t k n o w .
R e f e r e n c e has been m a d e several times to the origi-
nal A l e x a n d e r consisting of e q u a l parts of the three
ingredients—a nice midafternoon snack in p l a c e of a
half p o u n d of bonbons, but deadly as a pre-prandial

213
 drink. I f b r a n d y is substituted for the gin, this drink
becomes the B r a n d y A l e x a n d e r or P a n a m a . See p a g e
1 7 2 . I f m a d e w i t h gin a n d cognac, half a n d half, it is
k n o w n in Paris as the B L O N D N E G R E S S (LA N E G R E S S E
BLONDE).

ALPINE GLOW

1 part Cointreau
2 parts L e m o n J u i c e
4 parts C o g n a c
4 parts G o l d L a b e l R u m
1 or 2 dashes G r e n a d i n e to each drink

S h a k e w i t h cracked or crushed ice.

AMERICAN BEAUTY

1 part French Vermouth

1 part Grenadine
1 p a r t W h i t e C r è m e de M e n t h e
1 part Orange Juice
4 parts C o g n a c

S h a k e well w i t h crushed ice. F l o a t 1 teaspoonful claret

on top of e a c h drink.
T h i s drink is sometimes served in a tall glass filled
w i t h crushed ice a n d is then called A m e r i c a n B e a u t y
Punch. ( S e e p a g e 3 0 5 . )

A M E R I C A N F L A G A Pousse-Café (see p a g e 2 4 6 ) con-

sisting of grenadine, maraschino, a n d Parfait A m o u r
or C r è m e Y v e t t e .

A M E R PICON S e e Picon Cocktails, pages 1 7 6 - 1 7 7 .

ANGEL'S DREAM A Pousse-Café (see p a g e 2 4 6 ) con-

sisting of A p r y a n d sweet c r e a m .

214
ANGEL'S KISS A Pousse-Cafe (see page 246) consisting
of creme de cacao, Creme Yvette, prunelle, and sweet
cream. Sometimes the Creme Yvette and prunelle are
omitted.

ANGEL'S TIT A Pousse-Cafe (see page 246) consisting

of creme de cacao, maraschino, and sweet cream.

ANGLER'S Gin 'n' Bitters (see page 151) with a dash

of grenadine. Sometimes served in a Sour glass filled
with crushed ice.

APPETIZER
1 part Orange Juice
2 parts Dubonnet
4 parts Gin
1 dash Bitters to each drink
Stir.

APRICOT
1 part Apricot Brandy
3 parts Gin
1 dash Orange Bitters to each drink
Shake with cracked ice. Decorate with a cherry.
The Apricot Brandy Soup (see page 122) is also
sometimes called an Apricot Cocktail and sometimes
an APRICOT DELIGHT.

AQUITANIA
1 part Apricot Liqueur
2 parts Lime Juice
8 parts Gin
Shake with cracked or crushed ice. Decorate with a
cherry.
215
AROUND T H E WORLD

1 p a r t G r e e n C r è m e de M e n t h e
2 parts Pineapple J u i c e
8 parts G i n

S h a k e w i t h c r a c k e d or crushed ice. D e c o r a t e w i t h a
green cherry.

AUNT EMILY

1 part Apricot Liqueur

2 parts G i n
1 part Orange Juice
2 parts A p p l e j a c k
1 dash G r e n a d i n e to each drink

S h a k e w i t h cracked ice.

BACARDI F L Y E R A B a c a r d i C o c k t a i l (see p a g e 1 0 9 )
strained into a saucer c h a m p a g n e glass a n d the glass
filled w i t h iced c h a m p a g n e .

BALTIMORE BRACER

1 part Anisette
1 part C o g n a c
1 E g g White to e a c h drink

S h a k e w i t h c r a c k e d or crushed ice.

B E T S Y F L A N A G A N T h i s is merely a J a m a i c a R u m
M a n h a t t a n (see p a g e 1 0 6 ) w i t h a dash of A n g o s t u r a
a n d 1/2 teaspoonful s u g a r syrup to e a c h drink.

B I A R R I T Z A B r a n d y S o u r (see p a g e 1 2 1 ) w i t h c u r a ç a o
in place of sugar syrup.

BITTERSWEET A R y e S o u r w i t h 4 parts orange juice in

place of 2 parts lemon j u i c e .
216
B L A C K O U T A B l a c k b e r r y B r a n d y S o u r (see p a g e 1 2 1 ) .
Also sometimes m a d e w i t h part blackberry b r a n d y a n d
p a r t gin as a base.

BLACK STRIPE

1 part Water
1 p a r t N e w Orleans Molasses
3 parts J a m a i c a R u m

S h a k e vigorously with cracked ice.

T h i s one is submitted as a curiosity rather than as a
drink. I t is definitely not a n apéritif cocktail.
T h i s is also sometimes served as a hot drink. S e e
p a g e 336.

BLOSSOM

1 part P i n e a p p l e J u i c e
2 parts L i m e J u i c e
8 parts W h i t e L a b e l R u m

S h a k e w i t h cracked or crushed ice

BLUE SKIES

1 part Sugar Syrup

2 parts Lemon Juice
4 parts Gin
4 parts Applejack
1 or 2 dashes G r e n a d i n e to each drink

S h a k e w i t h c r a c k e d or crushed ice.

BOLO

1 part Sugar Syrup

2 parts Lime Juice
1 part Orange Juice
8 parts White Label R u m

S h a k e w i t h cracked or crushed ice.

217
BOYD
2 parts French Vermouth
2 parts Lime Juice
6 parts White Label Rum
I teaspoonful Raspberry Syrup to each drink
Shake with cracked ice. Grenadine can be substituted
for the raspberry syrup.

BRAINSTORM
1 part French Vermouth
4 parts Rye
2 or 3 dashes Benedictine to each drink
Stir. Decorate with a twist of orange peel.
Another version of this drink calls for Irish whisky
instead of rye.
BUGHOUSE
I part Italian Vermouth
3 parts Cognac
I teaspoonful Absinthe to each drink
Stir.
BULLFROG An Apricot Brandy Sour but with no sugar.
This drink is also sometimes called the HOP TOAD.
Some recipes call for equal parts of apricot brandy
and Jamaica rum.

CANADIAN This cocktail is straight Canadian whisky

with 2 or 3 dashes each of curacao and Angostura and
I teaspoonful of sugar syrup to each drink. Maple
syrup is sometimes used in place of the sugar.

CAPTAIN'S BLOOD
1 part Lime Juice
2 to 3 parts Jamaica Rum
2 or 3 dashes Bitters to each drink
Shake with finely cracked ice.
218
CARIOCA T h i s is merely the n a m e given by the m a n u ­
facturers of C a r i o c a - b r a n d r u m to a D a i q u i r i m a d e
w i t h C a r i o c a gold label. C o m p a r e B a c a r d i , p a g e 1 0 9 .

C H A M P A G N E COCKTAIL T h i s drink should be served

i n a pre-chilled saucer c h a m p a g n e glass. P l a c e a
medium-sized loaf of s u g a r in the glass a n d saturate
it w i t h A n g o s t u r a bitters—about 2 dashes. F i l l w i t h
thoroughly chilled c h a m p a g n e . A d d a twist of lemon
or orange peel, or both.
T h e addition of c o g n a c in the ratio of 1 p a r t of
cognac to about 4 or 5 of c h a m p a g n e converts this
cocktail into the M A H A R A J A H ' S B U R R A P E G . T h e
B u r r a P e g is also served as a long drink in a H i g h b a l l
or Collins glass, decorated w i t h a spiral of lemon or
lime peel, like a Horse's N e c k . S e e also the R u s s i a n
(page 2 5 0 ) .

W h y some people r a v e about the C h a m p a g n e C o c k t a i l

is a complete mystery to m e . T h e only k n o w n reason
for r e g a r d i n g it as "ultra-ultra" is the fact that c h a m ­
p a g n e is expensive. F r o m every point of view, other
than cost, this cocktail is a decidedly inferior drink,
a n d no true c h a m p a g n e lover w o u l d ever c o m m i t the
sacrilege of polluting a real vintage c h a m p a g n e b y
dunking e v e n plain s u g a r — m u c h less bitters—in it.
So if you must, on occasion, serve this incongruous mess
just for the sake of "putting on the d o g , " then, in the
n a m e of all that a true lover of the g r a p e holds sacred,
use a c h e a p domestic c h a m p a g n e or even an artificially
carbonated white w i n e . T h e cocktail will be just as
good, the burden on y o u r pocketbook will be less, a n d
you will h a v e refrained from desecrating the m e m o r y
of D o m Perignon, the Benedictine monk w h o , by
accident, first discovered c h a m p a g n e .

C H A M P E R E L L E • S H A M P A R E L L E T h e C h a m p e r e l l e is
nothing b u t a large P o u s s e - C a f é (see p a g e 2 4 6 ) served
in a sherry glass instead of a P o u s s e - C a f é glass. F o r

219
 some u n k n o w n reason it is usually called a B R A N D Y
C H A M P E R E L L E , although kirsch, Goldwasser or some
other very dry liquor is frequently used instead of
cognac with the cordials. As with all Pousse-Cafes,
care must be taken to prevent the different liquors
from running together.
Any combination of liqueurs and spirits that will
remain separate can be used. One of the oldest recipes
I have calls for the following—to be poured in the
order named: orange Curaçao, Yellow Chartreuse,
anisette, and either kirschwasser or cognac.
Compare the Golden Slipper, page 234, the Lune
de Miel, page 239, the Knickebein, page 237, and the
Pousse l'Amour, page 247, in which an egg yolk is
also used. See also the Scaffa, page 251.

CHARLIE CHAPLIN
2 parts Lime Juice
3 parts Sloe Gin
3 parts Apricot Brandy
Shake with crushed or cracked ice. The original recipe
for this drink calls for three times as much sloe gin as
brandy, which is far too sweet a drink for a cocktail.

C H A R L O T T E R U S S E O n e half teaspoon sugar syrup, 1

dash e a c h A n g o s t u r a a n d orange bitters to e a c h drink
of gin. S h a k e w i t h c r a c k e d or crushed ice. R i n s e
pre-chilled cocktail glass w i t h a few drops of absinthe
a n d strain the gin m i x t u r e into it.
Not a b a d drink despite the gooey-sounding n a m e .

CHAUNCEY OLCOTT

1 part Italian V e r m o u t h
1 part Dry Sherry
6 parts Irish W h i s k y

Stir.
220
CHERRY BLOSSOM

1 part Curaçao & G r e n a d i n e , half & half

2 parts Lemon Juice
3 parts Cognac
5 parts Kirsch

S h a k e w i t h c r a c k e d ice. D e c o r a t e w i t h a cherry.

CHINESE T w o or 3 dashes each of curaçao, grenadine,

maraschino, a n d A n g o s t u r a to e a c h drink of gold
label or other m e d i u m - or heavy-type rum.
S h a k e w i t h cracked ice. A twist of lemon o v e r each
glass. D e c o r a t e with a cherry.

CHOCOLATE SOLDIER

1 part L i m e Juice
2 parts D u b o n n e t
4 parts G i n

S h a k e w i t h cracked ice.

CLASSIC

1 part Curaçao
1 part M a r a s c h i n o
4 parts L e m o n J u i c e
8 parts C o g n a c

S h a k e w i t h cracked ice. A twist of lemon over e a c h

drink.

CLUB Perhaps it w o u l d not be too m u c h of a n e x a g ­

geration to say that there are as m a n y CLUB COCK­
T A I L S as there are clubs. H e r e a r e a f e w e x a m p l e s :

No. 1 E q u a l parts of dry sherry a n d t a w n y

port w i t h a dash of orange bitters to each drink.
Stir.
221
 No. 2 Straight gin with 2 dashes each of
orange bitters, Chartreuse, and Jamaica rum to
each drink. Stir. Decorate with stuffed olive.
No. 3 Straight whisky with 1 or 2 dashes each
of Angostura and grenadine to each drink. Stir.
Decorate with a cherry. (Note the similarity of
this cocktail to the Old-Fashioned.)
No. 4 Straight cognac with 2 dashes each of
maraschino, creme d'ananas, and orange bitters
to each drink. Stir. A twist of lemon over each
glass.

COMMANDO
1 part Cointreau
2 parts Lime Juice
8 parts Whisky
2 or 3 dashes Absinthe to each drink
Shake with cracked ice.

COMMODORE
1 part Sugar Syrup
2 parts Lemon Juice
8 parts Gold Label Rum
2 dashes Grenadine or Raspberry Syrup to each drink
and 1 Egg White to each two drinks
Shake. Decorate with a cherry.
Another version of the Commodore calls for whisky
instead of rum, omits the egg white, and uses orange
bitters in place of the grenadine. Obviously, the two
Commodores command two different fleets.

CONTINENTAL
1 part Sweet Cream
2 parts Lemon Juice
8 parts Rye
3 dashes Jamaica Rum to each drink
Shake with crushed ice.
222
 A n o t h e r version of the Continental calls for 1 p a r t
e a c h of Benedictine, lime j u i c e , a n d F r e n c h vermouth,
a n d 4 parts gin.

C O R O N A T I O N J u s t as the C l u b C o c k t a i l depends on
whose club it is, so does the C o r o n a t i o n depend on
w h o is being c r o w n e d . H e r e are four versions:

No. 1 T w o parts F r e n c h v e r m o u t h a n d 3 parts

sherry w i t h 2 o r 3 dashes e a c h of m a r a s c h i n o
a n d orange bitters to e a c h drink. Stir.

N o . 2 E q u a l parts of F r e n c h vermouth, D u ­
bonnet, a n d gin. Stir.

N o . 3 . E q u a l parts of F r e n c h v e r m o u t h , I t a l ­
ian v e r m o u t h , a n d a p p l e j a c k w i t h 1 o r 2 dashes
apricot liqueur to e a c h drink.

No. 4 Straight c o g n a c w i t h 1 or 2 dashes e a c h

of curaçao a n d orange bitters to e a c h drink.
S h a k e w i t h a bruised sprig of mint. A twist of
lemon o v e r e a c h drink, a n d decorate w i t h a
small mint leaf.

COSSACK

1 part Sugar Syrup

2 parts L i m e J u i c e
4 parts V o d k a
4 parts C o g n a c

S h a k e w i t h crushed ice.

C O U N T R Y CLUB E q u a l parts of F r e n c h v e r m o u t h a n d
w h i t e label r u m w i t h a few dashes of orange curaçao
to e a c h drink. Stir.
A s previously noted, I believe that gold label r u m
blends better t h a n white label in aromatic-type drinks.
T r y this drink both ways a n d see w h i c h y o u like the
better.
See also the whisky cocktail by the same n a m e , p a g e
160.

223
CRESCENT CITY

1 part L i m e Juice
2 parts I t a l i a n V e r m o u t h
4 parts G o l d L a b e l R u m
1 or 2 dashes A n g o s t u r a to e a c h drink

S h a k e or stir.
T h i s cocktail, while not particularly good, is in­
teresting in that it is a compromise between the aro­
m a t i c type a n d the S o u r type.

C R U S T A S T h e distinguishing feature of the C r u s t a is

t h a t the entire inside of the glass is lined w i t h lemon
or orange peel. T h e drink m a y be served in either a
wineglass or a n O l d - F a s h i o n e d glass, a l t h o u g h it is
m u c h h a r d e r to m a k e the peel fit in the O l d - F a s h ­
ioned glass.
T a k e a l a r g e lemon or a small o r a n g e of a size a p ­
p r o x i m a t i n g that of the glass to be used. C u t off both
ends a n d peel the r e m a i n d e r in spiral fashion so as
to k e e p the peel all in one piece. L i n e the inside of the
glass with this peel, w e t the edge of the glass, a n d dip
in p o w d e r e d sugar to frost the edge of both peel a n d
glass. I n a b a r glass m i x 1 p a r t sugar syrup, 2 parts
l e m o n j u i c e , a n d 8 parts b r a n d y w i t h 1 or 2 dashes
e a c h of m a r a s c h i n o a n d bitters to e a c h drink. S h a k e
w i t h finely crushed ice a n d strain into the p r e p a r e d
glass.
W h i l e the B R A N D Y C R U S T A is the most c o m m o n
form of this drink, it is, after all, merely a Sour-type
drink served in fancy style. Substitution of a different
liquor as a base will give you a G I N C R U S T A , a R U M
CRUSTA, an APPLEJACK CRUSTA, a WHISKY
C R U S T A , a n d so on.

CUBAN

1 part Curaçao
2 parts L i m e J u i c e
224
 2 parts Pineapple Juice
8 parts White Label Rum
Shake with crushed ice. A twist of lemon over each
drink.
Another version of the Cuban omits the pineapple
juice and substitutes equal parts of grenadine and
maraschino for the curacao.
Still another version omits the pineapple and sub­
stitutes apricot liqueur for the curacao and cognac for
the rum. This is high treason! How could any drink
be truly Cuban unless made with rum?

CUBAN DREAM Straight gold label rum with a few

dashes each of Benedictine and French vermouth to
each drink. Shake or stir.
This cocktail is also sometimes called simply the
DREAM.

CZARINA
i part French Vermouth
i part Italian Vermouth
6 parts Vodka
3 or 4 parts Apricot Brandy to each drink
Stir.
Note that this is a VODKA MEDIUM MARTINI or
VODKA PERFECT with the addition of a little apricot
flavor. A different version of the Czarina calls for
equal parts of pineapple juice and vodka with a dash
of bitters.

DAWN
1 part Apricot Liqueur
2 parts Orange Juice
8 parts White Label Rum
i dash Grenadine to each drink
Shake well with crushed ice.
225
 T h e r e is a very similar drink in flavor called the
G O L D E N D A W N a n d there a r e several versions of that
drink. H e r e are three. T h e drink should be thoroughly
chilled a n d m a y be decorated w i t h a cherry.

Golden D a w n , N o . 1 O n e p a r t apricot li­

queur, 1 p a r t lime j u i c e , 2 parts orange j u i c e , 6
parts gin, 1 dash g r e n a d i n e to each drink. C o m ­
p a r e the Paradise, p a g e 2 4 5 .

Golden D a w n , N o . 2 O n e p a r t apricot
brandy, 1 p a r t lemon j u i c e , 2 parts o r a n g e j u i c e ,
4 parts a p p l e j a c k , 1 dash grenadine to e a c h
drink.

Golden D a w n , N o . 3 S a m e as N o . 1 but w i t h
r u m instead of gin.

DEMI-VIRGIN
1 part Grenadine
2 parts L i m e J u i c e
8 parts G i n
1 dash O r a n g e Bitters to each drink

S h a k e well with cracked or crushed ice.

T h i s is simply a G i n S o u r w i t h grenadine substi­
tuted for sugar syrup.

DERBY
1 part Peach Brandy
4 parts G i n

C r u s h 1 small sprig of mint to each drink in b a r glass

or s h a k e r ; a d d the liquor a n d shake well w i t h crushed
ice. T h i s drink is i m p r o v e d by the addition of a small
quantity of sugar syrup—not o v e r 1 teaspoonful to
e a c h drink.
T h e r e is also another cocktail called the D e r b y
consisting of straight c o g n a c w i t h 1 or 2 dashes each
of c u r a ç a o , p i n e a p p l e syrup, a n d bitters. T h e cock­
2
tail glass is filled about 1/2 to /3 full w i t h this m i x t u r e
a n d the glass then filled u p w i t h c h a m p a g n e .
226
DIKI-DIKI

1 part Grapefruit Juice

1 part G i n
4 parts A p p l e j a c k

S h a k e w i t h crushed ice.
T h i s is a v e r y dry cocktail. A n o t h e r version of the
D i k i - D i k i , not so dry, calls for S w e d i s h P u n c h in place
of the gin. If this is used, the quantity should be re­
d u c e d to about 1/2 part. Otherwise, the cocktail will
be too sweet.

DIVAN (pronounced dee-vahN') E q u a l parts lemon

juice, o r a n g e j u i c e , a n d rye w i t h 1 teaspoonful grena­
dine to e a c h drink. T h i s drink can be i m p r o v e d by
increasing the proportion of whisky to 2 or 3 parts.

DOCTOR T h e r e are numerous recipes for this drink.

H e r e a r e several. S h a k e well w i t h cracked ice.

No. 1 E q u a l parts of lime j u i c e and S w e d i s h

Punch.

No. 2 E q u a l parts of lemon j u i c e , S w e d i s h

P u n c h , a n d gin. T h i s is also k n o w n as the
GRETA GARBO.

No. 3 O n e p a r t l e m o n j u i c e , 1 p a r t orange
juice, 2 parts S w e d i s h Punch.

No. 4 O n e p a r t lime j u i c e , 2 parts J a m a i c a

r u m , 3 parts S w e d i s h P u n c h .

DOLORES

1 part D u b o n n e t
1 part D r y Sherry
2 parts J a m a i c a R u m

Stir. A twist of lemon o v e r e a c h glass.

J a m a i c a r u m blends perfectly with Dubonnet. A

227
 m i x t u r e of 1 p a r t r u m to 3 or 4 parts D u b o n n e t is
most palatable and, w h i l e r u m drinks generally should
be stinging cold, the h i g h proportion of D u b o n n e t in
this drink makes it pleasing e v e n without chilling.
T h e r e is another quite different drink also called
the D o l o r e s consisting of e q u a l parts of crème de
c a c a o , kirsch, a n d Spanish b r a n d y w i t h the w h i t e of
a n e g g to each 2 drinks.

DOROTHY • DOROTHY GISH

1 part Orange Juice

1 p a r t Pineapple J u i c e
6 parts W h i t e L a b e l R u m
2 or 3 dashes A p r i c o t B r a n d y to each drink

S h a k e well w i t h c r a c k e d ice.

DOUBLE RAINBOW

1 part L e m o n Juice
3 parts O r a n g e J u i c e
6 parts Southern C o m f o r t
3 dashes G r e n a d i n e to each drink.

S h a k e well w i t h c r a c k e d or crushed ice. T h i s makes

a v e r y satisfactory frozen cocktail also.

DOUGLAS FAIRBANKS

1 part Apricot Brandy

2 parts L e m o n J u i c e
4 parts Gin
1 E g g W h i t e to e a c h 2 drinks

S h a k e with cracked or crushed ice.

N o t e that this drink is, in effect, a G o l d e n D a w n
(see p a g e 2 2 6 ) w i t h e g g white substituted for the
orange juice.

228
EAGLE
1 part Parfait Amour
2 parts Lemon Juice
8 parts Gin
i Egg White to each 2 drinks
Shake with cracked ice.

EMERALD STAR
1 part Green Curaçao
2 parts Lemon Juice
2 parts Apricot Brandy
4 parts Gin
4 parts White Label Rum
Shake with cracked ice.

EPICUREAN
1 part Kiimmel
2 parts French Vermouth
4 parts Cognac
1 dash Bitters to each drink
Stir.

ERIN
i part Green Crème de Menthe
3 parts Gin
Shake. Decorate with a green cherry. Some recipes
call for the addition of a few dashes of lemon and
orange juice, the white of an egg to each 2 drinks, and
a dash of nutmeg in each glass.

ETHIOPIA A Sweet Martini with several dashes Fernet-

Branca to each drink and a twist of lemon.
229
FEDORA

1 part Curaçao
2 parts Lemon Juice
3 parts Gold Label R u m
3 parts Whisky
2 parts Cognac

Shake.
S o m e recipes call for sugar syrup in addition to the
curaçao. Also, some recipes m a k e one or another of
the rum, whisky, a n d cognac the dominant base w i t h
only a few dashes of the other t w o .

FERNET E q u a l parts of c o g n a c a n d F e r n e t - B r a n c a w i t h
a few dashes of sugar syrup a n d A n g o s t u r a . Stir. A
twist of orange o v e r each glass.
If crème de menthe is substituted for the cognac,
this becomes a F E R N E T M E N T H E .

F I B B E R McGEE A S w e e t M a r t i n i with a dash of A n -

gostura a n d about 2 teaspoonfuls of grapefruit juice
to e a c h drink.

FLAMINGO

1 part Apricot Brandy

1 part L i m e J u i c e
3 parts G i n
1 or 2 dashes G r e n a d i n e to each drink

S h a k e w i t h cracked ice.

FLIPS A F l i p is a n y wine or liquor shaken u p with sugar

a n d a whole egg. T h e usual proportions are 1 tea-
spoonful s u g a r or sugar syrup, 1 w h o l e egg, a n d 2
ounces liquor to e a c h drink. S h a k e with cracked or
finely crushed ice a n d strain into a small S o u r or D e l -

230
 monico glass (about 3 to 4 o u n c e s ) . D e c o r a t e with a
dash of grated nutmeg.
T h e most c o m m o n spirituous-liquor F l i p s are the
B R A N D Y F L I P a n d GIN F L I P . T h e most c o m m o n
w i n e F l i p s a r e the S H E R R Y F L I P a n d P O R T F L I P .
T h e r e are also A P P L E J A C K F L I P S , R U M F L I P S (using
gold label C u b a n , J a m a i c a , or a n y of the intermediate
rums), W H I S K Y FLIPS, CLARET FLIPS, MADEIRA
F L I P S , a n d so on. A l l are m a d e exactly the same ex-
cept for the w i n e or liquor used as a base.
T h e C H O C O L A T E F L I P is m a d e w i t h equal parts
of c o g n a c a n d sloe gin. The C O F F E E F L I P is m a d e w i t h
equal parts of cognac a n d port.
See also S h e r r y a n d E g g , p a g e 2 5 3 .

FLORIDA
1 part Sugar Syrup
2 parts Lime Juice
2 parts Pineapple Juice
8 parts White L a b e l R u m
1 dash G r e e n C r è m e de M e n t h e to each drink

S h a k e . D e c o r a t e w i t h a sprig of mint.
T h e O r a n g e Blossom is also sometimes called the
Florida. See page 1 2 6 .

FORBIDDEN FRUIT E q u a l parts F r e n c h v e r m o u t h , gin,

and F o r b i d d e n F r u i t . S h a k e .

F R A P P É S T o frappé is to chill w i t h shaved or v e r y

finely crushed ice. S o m e recipes call for shaking the
drink w i t h the snow ice a n d then straining into a
glass. T h e m o r e usual method, h o w e v e r , is to p o u r
the drink w i t h the ice into a cocktail or saucer c h a m -
p a g n e glass a n d serve w i t h a short straw. I n the case
of liqueurs, the glass is usually filled w i t h the ice first
a n d the liqueur merely poured into the glass of ice
without shaking.
Practically any liqueur or, for that matter, any
other drink can be served as a F r a p p é . Absinthe a n d
231
 crème de menthe (both white and green), however,
are the two drinks most commonly served as a Frappé.
The FRAPPÉED CAFÉ ROYAL consists of 1 part co-
gnac and 3 parts strong black coffee shaken and
served as a Frappé.

FRESCO Crush a small piece of pineapple for each

drink with a muddler or, if you have a Waring Blen-
dor, whip in the Blendor. To the muddled pineapple
add
1 part Sugar Syrup
2 parts Lime Juice
8 parts White Label Rum
Shake with crushed ice and strain into pre-chilled and
frosted glasses.

FRIAR Equal parts French vermouth, pineapple juice,

and gin. Shake vigorously with crushed ice and strain
into glasses while still frothy.

FROZEN COCKTAILS Frozen cocktails require the use

of a Waring Blendor or similar electric mixer of the
type used at soda fountains. The egg-beater type of
electric mixer cannot be used.
The cocktail ingredients are poured into the mixer
with approximately the same quantity of crushed ice
and mixed at high speed for about 2 minutes until
the entire mass is the consistency of fine snow. The
drink is then served in a large cocktail or saucer cham-
pagne glass with short straws. The mixture should be
heaped up in the glass in the shape of an inverted
cone. This may be accomplished by pouring part of
the drink into a medium-meshed strainer, holding
the strainer above the glass, and tapping its side.
Practically any Sour-type cocktail is adaptable to
being served "frozen" style. The most common of all
is the FROZEN DAIQUIRI. Others suggested are the
232
 FROZEN SOUTHERN COMFORT SOUR, FROZEN
ORANGE BLOSSOM, FROZEN RHETT BUTLER,
F R O Z E N RED LION, F R O Z E N SCARLETT O'HARA,
FROZEN SNOW WHITE, FROZEN MIAMI, FROZEN
STINGER, and F R O Z E N H O N E Y M O O N .
D o not serve egg or cream cocktails frozen style.
T h e creamy, frothy a p p e a r a n c e of these drinks, w h i c h
is their principal raison d'être, is lost w h e n frozen.

FU MANCHU

1 part S u g a r S y r u p
2 parts L i m e J u i c e
4 parts J a m a i c a R u m
2 dashes e a c h Curaçao & White C r è m e de M e n t h e to
e a c h drink

S h a k e w i t h crushed ice.

FUTURITY E q u a l parts I t a l i a n v e r m o u t h a n d sloe gin

with a few dashes each of A n g o s t u r a a n d grenadine
to e a c h drink. Stir.

GABY D E S L Y S (gah'-bee d a y lee')

1 part O r g e a t
4 parts G i n
3 or 4 dashes Absinthe to e a c h drink

S h a k e vigorously w i t h crushed ice.

GLOOM L I F T E R

1 part S u g a r S y r u p
2 parts L e m o n J u i c e
6 parts Irish Whisky
1 E g g W h i t e to each 2 drinks

Shake with cracked ice.

C o m p a r e the G l o o m C h a s e r a n d G l o o m R a i s e r ,
page 1 5 4 .
233
GOLDEN SLIPPER Fill a sherry glass about 1/3 full
w i t h Y e l l o w C h a r t r e u s e ; carefully float an e g g yolk
o n the C h a r t r e u s e ; then fill the glass to w i t h i n 3/8" of
the top with D a n z i g e r Goldwasser.
C o m p a r e the C h a m p e r e l l e , p a g e 2 2 0 , the K n i c k e -
bein, p a g e 2 3 7 , a n d the L u n e de M i e l , p a g e 2 3 9 .

GRAND DUCHESS

1 part Grenadine
2 parts Lime Juice
2 parts G o l d L a b e l or other h e a v y R u m
4 parts Vodka

S h a k e w i t h cracked or crushed ice.

GRAND SLAM M a n h a t t a n w i t h the addition of 1 or

2 teaspoonfuls lime juice a n d 2 or 3 dashes curaçao to
e a c h drink. Stir.
A n o t h e r drink also k n o w n as the G r a n d S l a m con-
sists of 1 p a r t grenadine a n d curaçao (half a n d h a l f ) ,
2 parts lemon juice, and 8 parts white label r u m .

GRAPEFRUIT BLOSSOM S a m e as the O r a n g e Blossom

but w i t h grapefruit juice in place of o r a n g e j u i c e .
A few dashes of m a r a s c h i n o to each drink to counter-
act the sharpness of the grapefruit. T h i s drink is also
sometimes m a d e w i t h white C u b a n r u m in place of
the gin.

GREENWICH E q u a l parts of crème de c a c a o , a p p l e -

jack, a n d gin. S h a k e with cracked ice.

GYPSY QUEEN

1 part Benedictine
2 to 6 parts V o d k a
1 dash O r a n g e Bitters to e a c h drink

Shake.

234
 T h e original recipe calls for a proportion of 1 to
2. T h i s , h o w e v e r , is rather sweet. A b o u t 5 to 6 parts
v o d k a to 1 of Benedictine makes a m u c h better drink.

HELEN T W E L V E T R E E S E q u a l parts of g i n a n d pine­

apple j u i c e with a dash or two of Parfait A m o u r to
give the w h o l e a blue tint. S h a k e with crushed ice.
Some recipes (e.g., S l o p p y J o e ' s of H a v a n a , C u b a )
call for 1 p a r t g i n to 2 parts p i n e a p p l e j u i c e .

HIGH H A T
1 part C h e r r y H e e r i n g
2 parts L e m o n J u i c e
4 parts Whisky

Shake w i t h cracked or crushed ice.

H O L L A N D S O R H O L L A N D G I N H o l l a n d gin is a p u n ­
gent, highly aromatic drink. W h i l e most A m e r i c a n s
do not like it a n d r e g a r d its flavor as rather brackish,
nevertheless, if taken straight a n d very cold (like
v o d k a a n d a k v a v i t ) , it is a splendid drink. T h e gin
should be thoroughly chilled in the bottle rather t h a n
stirred or shaken w i t h ice. I t should b e served in a
small whisky glass, not in a cocktail glass. Finally, like
vodka a n d akvavit, it should be d o w n e d at one
swallow a n d not sipped.
H o l l a n d gin does not blend well with other flavors
and, while dozens of recipes h a v e been written for
Holland-gin cocktails, they are generally regarded
(and properly so) as pretty m u c h worthless. T h e r e are
two or three possible exceptions. H e r e they a r e :

1 . H O L L A N D G I N ' N ' B I T T E R S O n e or 2 dashes

A n g o s t u r a or other a r o m a t i c bitters to each
drink of H o l l a n d gin.
2. H O L L A N D GIN COCKTAIL O n e dash A b ­
sinthe a n d 2 dashes each of sugar syrup a n d
orange bitters to each drink of the gin. Stir
quickly with crushed ice.

235
 3. H O L L A N D ' S P R I D E O n e part I t a l i a n v e r ­
m o u t h a n d 2 parts H o l l a n d gin. A d d Absinthe,
sugar syrup, a n d orange bitters, as in the H o l ­
l a n d G i n C o c k t a i l . Stir quickly w i t h cracked ice.

HURRICANE
1 part V o d k a
2 parts C o g n a c
1 teaspoonful Absinthe to each drink

S h a k e w i t h c r a c k e d ice.

IDEAL
1 part Sugar Syrup
2 parts G r a p e f r u i t J u i c e
2 parts F r e n c h V e r m o u t h
6 parts G i n
S h a k e w i t h cracked ice.
W i t h the v e r m o u t h omitted a n d the grapefruit
j u i c e increased to 4 parts, this becomes the L I L L Y .

ISLE O F P I N E S
1 part Sugar Syrup
2 parts G r a p e f r u i t J u i c e
6 parts White L a b e l R u m

S h a k e w i t h cracked ice.

JITTERS E q u a l parts of F r e n c h vermouth, gin, and

ojen. Stir.

J O C K E Y CLUB S w e e t M a n h a t t a n w i t h 2 dashes m a r a ­
schino to each drink. Stir.

KATINKA

1 part A p r i c o t L i q u e u r
2 parts L i m e J u i c e
8 parts V o d k a
236
 Shake well with crushed ice. Some recipes call for 1
or 2 dashes grenadine for color.

KENTUCKY COLONEL No less an authority than the

late G. Selmar Fougner, author of the famous Wine
Trail series, vouches for the proportions of this drink
as 1 part bourbon to 2 parts pineapple juice. The
Kentucky colonels of my acquaintance would be
more likely to reverse that proportion.
Another and, to my mind, better version of this
drink is 1 part Benedictine to 3 parts bourbon, stirred
and decorated with a twist of lemon peel.

KINGSTON
1 part Sugar Syrup
2 parts Lime or Lemon Juice
3 parts Gin
5 parts Jamaica Rum
Shake well with cracked or crushed ice. A few dashes
of grenadine or a small quantity of orange juice may
be added if desired.

KNICKEBEIN This drink consists of several liqueurs

or fruit syrups, with or without cognac or a fruit
brandy, with an unbroken egg yolk and a dash of
bitters. Beyond this, authorities differ as to how it is
made.
The oldest recipe book in my possession treats it as
being made like the Golden Slipper and the Pousse
l'Amour—i.e., as a Pousse-Café containing an egg
yolk. For this variety of Knickebein a sherry glass is
used. The glass is filled 1/3 full with vanilla syrup or
crème de vanille. An egg yolk is then carefully floated
on the vanilla, a dash of bitters squirted on the egg,
and enough Benedictine added to cover the yolk.
Finally the remainder of the glass (about 1/3) is filled
with cognac or kirsch. As with a Pousse-Café, great
pains must be taken to prevent the liquors from run-
ning into one another.
237
 W i t h another version of this drink, several liqueurs
such as Benedictine, curaçao, a n d m a r a s c h i n o are
blended together. T h e glass is filled 2/3 full of the
m i x e d liqueurs a n d the e g g yolk floated on the li-
queurs. T h e egg white is beaten to a stiff froth a n d
piled o v e r the yolk to form a n inverted cone, a n d the
bitters are squirted o v e r the beaten whites.
I n consuming the drink, w h e r e beaten egg white is
used, this is first sucked from the top. T h e liquors are
then sipped, a n d , at the end, the e g g yolk is taken
w i t h the last s w a l l o w of the liquid.

LADY ALEXANDER A s if the A l e x a n d e r a n d the S c o t c h

A l e x a n d e r w e r e not b a d enough, someone h a d to
think u p this drink w h i c h is even less of a cocktail
a n d more of a dessert drink than the original A l e x a n -
der. I t consists of equal parts of crème de c a c a o a n d
sloe gin w i t h the white of a n egg a n d a dash of A n g o s -
tura. S h a k e well.

LEVIATHAN 477

1 part Sugar Syrup

2 parts Lemon Juice
2 parts Orange Juice
4 parts Scotch
Shake.

LIBERTY

1 part Sugar Syrup

2 parts Lime Juice
3 parts White Label Rum
5 parts Applejack
Shake with cracked or crushed ice.
Another version of the Liberty omits the sugar syrup
and substitutes sloe gin for the rum and apricot
brandy for the applejack.
238
LITTLE COLONEL
1 part Lime Juice
2 parts Bourbon
4 parts Southern Comfort
Shake with cracked or crushed ice.
An excellent drink except that it is a bit sweet. It
can be made drier, and therefore improved, by re­
versing the proportions of bourbon and Southern
Comfort.

LOVER'S DELIGHT
1 part Cointreau
1 part Forbidden Fruit
2 parts Cognac
Shake.
The original recipe for this drink calls for equal
parts of the three liquors. Even the above modifica­
tion is still much too sweet. It can be greatly improved
by adding about 2 parts lemon juice and increasing
the proportion of cognac to 8 parts.

LUNE DE MIEL This is essentially the same as the

Golden Slipper, page 234, Knickebein, page 237, and
Pousse l'Amour, page 247, except for the liqueurs
used. Cointreau is placed in the bottom of the sherry
glass, the egg yolk is floated in the Cointreau and Par­
fait Amour added to the top of the egg, and, finally,
kümmel is floated on top.

MADAGASCAR
1 part Lemon Juice
3 parts Orange Juice
8 parts White Cuban Rum
Shake with cracked ice. Sprinkle a small pinch of
grated nutmeg on each drink.
This is, in effect, an Orange Blossom, using rum in
place of gin.
239
MAIDEN'S PRAYER

1 part Cointreau
2 parts Lemon Juice
8 parts Gin
1 dash O r a n g e Bitters to e a c h drink

S h a k e well w i t h c r a c k e d ice.
Here is another drink that illustrates the ease of
"rolling your own." It is nothing but a Gin Sour with
Cointreau substituted for sugar. Or, put another way,
it is a Side Car with Gin used in place of Cognac.
Compare the Miami, page 132, Olympic, page 243,
Santiago, page 251, and Sunrise, page 257.

MANGAREVA

1 part Cointreau
2 parts Lime Juice
1 part Honey
7 parts Applejack

T h e exotic aspect of this cocktail lies in the m a n n e r

in w h i c h it is s e r v e d ; viz., in coconut shells filled with
crushed ice. D e c o r a t e with small sticks of fresh pine­
a p p l e a n d serve with straws. T h e bottled a p p l e a n d
honey combination m a y be substituted for the honey
a n d a p p l e j a c k a b o v e listed.

M E M P H I S • M E M P H I S B E L L E P l a c e half of a fresh
p e a c h or apricot in a saucer c h a m p a g n e glass a n d fill
the glass w i t h crushed or shaved i c e ; a d d 1 to 1 1/2
jiggers Southern C o m f o r t a n d decorate w i t h a cherry.
A spoonful of sherry or port m a y be floated on top if
desired. S e r v e w i t h straws for sipping the liquor a n d
a demitasse spoon w i t h w h i c h to eat the fruit.

M I A M I B E A C H E q u a l parts of F r e n c h vermouth, g r a p e ­
fruit juice, a n d Scotch.
A n o t h e r horror that c a n be classed as a vestigial
r e m a i n d e r of prohibition days. I h a v e yet to find any
240
 truly good cocktail m a d e with Scotch. T h i s , h o w e v e r ,
is probably about as g o o d — a n d as b a d — a s any.
C o m p a r e the M i a m i , p a g e 1 3 2 .

M I K A D O Straight c o g n a c w i t h a dash of Angostura

and 2 or 3 dashes each of curaçao, crème de n o y a u x ,
a n d orgeat to e a c h drink. S h a k e with cracked ice. A
twist of lemon o v e r e a c h drink. D e c o r a t e with a cherry.

M I L L I O N T h i s is simply a J a m a i c a R u m S o u r with a
dash of A n g o s t u r a to e a c h drink. S h a k e with crushed
ice a n d decorate with a cherry.
T h i s cocktail is also sometimes called O L D P L A N -
TATION.
See also M i l l i o n a i r e a n d M i l l i o n a i r e R o y a l , p a g e
139.

MILLION DOLLAR
1 part Italian Vermouth
1 part P i n e a p p l e J u i c e
6 parts G i n
2 or 3 dashes G r e n a d i n e & 1/2 E g g to each drink
Stir w i t h c r a c k e d ice. A spoonful of orange-flower
w a t e r (Eau de Fleurs d'Oranger) m a y be floated on
each drink, if desired.

MONKEY GLAND
1 part G r e n a d i n e
2 parts O r a n g e J u i c e
6 parts G i n
1 or 2 dashes Absinthe to each drink
Shake w i t h crushed ice.

MONTE CARLO
1 part Benedictine
2 parts R y e
1 or 2 dashes A n g o s t u r a to e a c h drink
Shake with cracked ice.
241
 T h i s drink is a bit on the sweet side. I t can be im-
p r o v e d by a d d i n g 2 parts lemon juice a n d increasing
the rye from 2 parts to about 4 or 5 . C o m p a r e the
K e n t u c k y Colonel, p a g e 2 3 7 .

1
MORNING
1 part French Vermouth
3 parts C o g n a c
2 dashes e a c h of Absinthe, C u r a ç a o , & A n g o s t u r a to
e a c h drink

Stir w i t h ice cubes. A twist of lemon o v e r e a c h drink.

D e c o r a t e w i t h a cherry.
T h e r e are a n u m b e r of variations of this drink.
S o m e recipes omit the vermouth, some use both c o g n a c
a n d whisky, some a d d a few dashes of maraschino,
a n d some use orange bitters in p l a c e of A n g o s t u r a .

1
MORNING GLORY

1 part L e m o n J u i c e
3 parts G i n
1 dash W h i t e C r e m e de M e n t h e & 1/2 E g g W h i t e to
each drink

S h a k e with cracked ice. S o m e recipes use 1 p a r t

whisky a n d 2 parts gin, and some use grenadine in
place of the crème de menthe.

1
MORNING STAR

1 part Sugar Syrup

3 parts D r y S h e r r y
6 parts White C u b a n R u m
1 E g g Y o l k to each 2 drinks

S h a k e w i t h c r a c k e d ice. A pinch of p o w d e r e d nutmeg

sprinkled o v e r e a c h drink.
1
See also Morning Rose, page 130.
242
MOSS ROSE

1 p a r t Sloe G i n
2 parts G r a p e f r u i t J u i c e
4 parts Oloroso Sherry

S h a k e w i t h c r a c k e d ice.
T h i s drink is not r e c o m m e n d e d because it is too
m u c h on the sweet side. I t is included here because it
is one of the few cocktails calling for grapefruit juice.

NEVADA

1 part Sugar Syrup

2 parts Grapefruit Juice
2 parts Lime Juice
8 parts White Label R u m

S h a k e w i t h cracked ice. T h i s is merely a D a i q u i r i w i t h

grapefruit j u i c e a d d e d .

N E W O R L E A N S T h e r e are t w o cocktails of entirely

different types t h a t h a v e been given this n a m e . T h e
first is simply a L o t u s C l u b or W e y l i n (see p a g e 1 6 6 )
with the addition of 1 or 2 dashes e a c h of anisette a n d
orange bitters. T h e other consists of 1 p a r t grapefruit
juice to 2 parts Southern C o m f o r t . S h a k e .

OJEN Straight ojen w i t h 2 or 3 dashes of bitters to

each drink.

OLYMPIA • OLYMPIC T h i s is a D a i q u i r i or R u m S o u r
with C h e r r y H e e r i n g substituted for the sugar syrup.
C o m p a r e the M a i d e n ' s P r a y e r , p a g e 240, S a n t i a g o ,
page 2 5 1 , a n d Sunrise, p a g e 2 5 7 .

OPAL

1 part C h a r t r e u s e
6 parts Absinthe

Shake vigorously a n d long w i t h crushed ice.

243
OPALESCENT

1 part Grenadine
2 parts L e m o n J u i c e
8 parts G i n
1 E g g W h i t e to each 2 drinks

S h a k e w i t h c r a c k e d ice. S o m e recipes call for the addi­

tion of a sprig of mint a n d some call for a teaspoonful
of c r e a m to e a c h drink in place of the e g g white.
C o m p a r e the Pink L a d y , p a g e 1 2 8 .

O P E R A E q u a l parts of D u b o n n e t a n d white label rum

w i t h a dash of lime j u i c e a n d a twist of orange peel
o v e r e a c h drink.
A n o t h e r recipe uses gin in p l a c e of r u m a n d m a r a ­
schino liqueur in place of lime j u i c e .

O R G E A T T h e r e are three types of cocktails b y this

n a m e . T h e first is a Whisky S o u r w i t h a dash of A n ­
gostura a n d a teaspoonful of orgeat to each drink. T h e
second is a variation of the first, but with c o g n a c in
place of whisky. T h e third is a G i n S o u r w i t h orgeat
substituted for the sugar syrup. S o m e recipes also
substitute o r a n g e j u i c e for the lime j u i c e .

P A L I S A D E S E q u a l parts of gin a n d cider (preferably

h a r d cider) w i t h a dash of A n g o s t u r a . S h a k e .
Not r e c o m m e n d e d .

PALMETTO

1 part Italian Vermouth

2 parts J a m a i c a R u m
1 dash Bitters to each drink

Stir. A twist of orange peel o v e r each drink. Some

recipes call for F r e n c h vermouth instead of Italian,
but this makes a m u c h inferior drink.

244
PARADISE

1 part Apricot Brandy

2 parts O r a n g e J u i c e
8 parts G i n

S h a k e w i t h cracked ice a n d a d d a twist of o r a n g e peel

to e a c h drink. S o m e recipes call for white label r u m in
place of gin. C o m p a r e the D a w n a n d G o l d e n D a w n ,
pages 2 2 5 - 2 2 6 .

PARK AVENUE

1 part I t a l i a n V e r m o u t h
2 parts P i n e a p p l e J u i c e
4 parts G i n
2 dashes Curaçao to e a c h drink

S h a k e w i t h c r a c k e d ice.
C o m p a r e the P i n e a p p l e Blossom a n d Pink Pine­
apple, below.

PENNSYLVANIA

1 part Grenadine
2 parts P i n e a p p l e J u i c e
8 parts W h i t e L a b e l R u m

S h a k e w i t h cracked ice.

PINEAPPLE B L O S S O M S a m e as a n O r a n g e Blossom
(page 1 2 6 ) but using pineapple juice instead of o r a n g e
juice. A d d a dash of orange bitters. S h a k e .
C o m p a r e the P a r k A v e n u e , a b o v e . See also the
Pineapple Blossom m a d e w i t h whisky, p a g e 1 4 1 .

PINK PINEAPPLE

1 part Grenadine
2 parts P i n e a p p l e J u i c e
6 parts G i n

Shake w i t h c r a c k e d ice.

245
P L U I E D'OR
1 p a r t Kümmel
1 part Orange Juice
2 parts V i e i l l e C u r e
4 parts G i n
Shake with cracked ice.

P O U S S E - C A F É S (poohs k a h - f a y ' )
2
Pousse-Cafés consist
of a series of different-colored liqueurs floated one on
top of another in a tall liqueur glass specially m a d e
for this purpose. G r e a t c a r e must be exercised to pre­
vent the liqueurs from running together a n d spoiling
the r a i n b o w effect. S o m e bartenders p o u r the liqueurs
slowly d o w n the inside r i m of the P o u s s e - C a f é glass
from a spoon or from a sherry glass; others p o u r them
carefully o v e r the b a c k of a spoon held inside the
P o u s s e - C a f é glass. E v e n after the liqueurs h a v e been
poured a sudden j a r or m o v e m e n t of the glass m a y
cause the liqueurs to run together.
T h e liqueur of the greatest density is poured into
the glass first, then the n e x t heaviest, a n d so o n to the
top, the drink frequently being topped off w i t h a
spoonful of sweet c r e a m . Unfortunately, it is impos­
sible to furnish a n y table of densities of different
liqueurs because the same flavor (such as a n apricot
or crème de c a c a o ) m a d e b y one distiller m a y h a v e a
different density from that m a d e by another. T h i s
depends, of course, u p o n the s u g a r content. A s a gen­
eral rule, the higher the proof (i.e., the greater the
alcoholic c o n t e n t ) , the less the s u g a r content a n d
therefore the lighter the liqueur. Non-alcoholic syrups,
therefore, such as grenadine a n d raspberry syrups, are
usually the heaviest a n d should be poured first. T h i s
rule is not infallible because it is possible to h a v e a
thin, w a t e r y non-alcoholic syrup on the one h a n d and
a heavy, sugary, but high-proof liqueur on the other.
Nevertheless, it will furnish a r o u g h guide to density
in most cases.
2
And please don't say "pussy kăffy" or "pussy" anything else.
246
 Pousse-Cafés are usually m a d e in 3 , 5, 6, or 7 colors.
F o l l o w i n g is a typical 7-ring or 7-color Pousse-Café in
the order in w h i c h the liqueurs are poured :

1. G r e n a d i n e or R a s p b e r r y S y r u p (red)
2. C r è m e de C a c a o ( b r o w n )
3. M a r a s c h i n o (white)
4. O r a n g e C u r a ç a o (orange)
5. C r è m e de M e n t h e (green)
6. Parfait A m o u r (violet)
7. Cognac (amber)

T h e various " A n g e l ' s " drinks (pages 2 1 4 - 2 1 5 ) are

all of the Pousse-Café type. F o l l o w i n g are some of the
various combinations that h a v e been specially n a m e d :

F A I V R E ' S P O U S S E - C A F É Benedictine, orange curaçao,

kirschwasser, 2 or 3 drops of bitters on top.

PARISIAN POUSSE-CAFÉ Green Chartreuse, orange

curaçao, kirschwasser, cognac.

R A I N B O W P O U S S E - C A F É C r è m e de violette, crème de
cassis, maraschino, crème de menthe, yellow C h a r -
treuse, c u r a ç a o , cognac.

S A N T I N A S P O U S S E - C A F É M a r a s c h i n o , orange c u r a ç a o ,
cognac.

WALDORF POUSSE-CAFÉ Raspberry syrup, anisette,

Parfait A m o u r , yellow Chartreuse, Crème Yvette,
green Chartreuse, cognac.

POUSSE L ' A M O U R (poohs lah-moor') T h i s is another

of the P o u s s e - C a f é - e g g - y o l k drinks like the G o l d e n
Slipper ( p a g e 2 3 4 ) , K n i c k e b e i n ( p a g e 2 3 7 ) , a n d
L u n e d e M i e l ( p a g e 2 3 9 ) . M a r a s c h i n o is first p l a c e d

247
 in the sherry glass, the egg yolk is dropped in a n d
surrounded w i t h crème de vanille, a n d the glass is
topped off w i t h c o g n a c .

PRINCETON

1 part Port
3 parts G i n
2 dashes O r a n g e Bitters to e a c h drink

Authorities differ as to the p r o p e r m i x i n g of this drink.

U n d e r one version, all the ingredients are stirred to-
gether; u n d e r another version the gin a n d bitters are
shaken w i t h crushed ice, poured into a chilled cock-
tail glass, a n d the port is then poured into the glass
a n d allowed to settle through the gin a n d bitters. A
twist of lemon over the top.

PUSSYFOOT

1 part L e m o n J u i c e
3 parts O r a n g e J u i c e
1 teaspoonful G r e n a d i n e to e a c h drink
1 E g g Y o l k to each 2 or 3 drinks

S h a k e thoroughly w i t h cracked ice.

Y o u will find one or two teetotalers at practically
every cocktail party—thoroughly good scouts w h o , for
one reason or another, just don't drink cocktails.
R a t h e r t h a n serve them plain orange juice or tomato
j u i c e or, worse still, h a v e them stand a r o u n d empty-
handed, try g i v i n g them this non-alcoholic "cocktail."
I t really does not deserve the n a m e it bears because the
drink is both good a n d honest.
O t h e r v e r y palatable P R O H I B I T I O N COCKTAILS
(i.e., non-alcoholic) c a n be m a d e by combining 1 part
lime juice w i t h about 4 to 5 parts g r a p e juice or the
sweet j u i c e from almost a n y c a n n e d fruit, such as
cherries, peaches, apricots, raspberries, etc. S e e also
Southern B e a u t y , p a g e 2 5 6 .
248
RHETT BUTLER

1 part Curaçao
1 part Lime Juice
1 part Lemon Juice
8 parts Southern C o m f o r t

S h a k e w i t h crushed ice. L i k e all Sour-type Southern

C o m f o r t drinks, this makes a n excellent frozen cocktail
also.

ROSE Here is a cocktail that was highly popular in

Paris during the twenties and early thirties. My good
friend, Frank Meier, for thirty-odd years the manager
of the Ritz Bar in Paris, states that it was invented by
Johnny Milta of the Chatham Bar in Paris. In a com­
pilation called Cocktails de Paris, published by La
Maison du Cocktail of Paris in 1929, a slightly differ­
ent formula is credited to Albert of the Chatham.
There are also several other formulas, both French and
American. The distinguishing feature of all the recipes,
of course, is the rose color of the drink. (Compare
the Morning Rose, page 130.) Here are several of the
various formulas:
No. 1 (Original by Johnny Milta of the
Chatham Bar)

1 part Kirsch
2 parts Noilly Prat V e r m o u t h
1 teaspoonful R a s p b e r r y S y r u p to e a c h drink

Stir. D e c o r a t e w i t h a cherry. T h i s drink can be

greatly i m p r o v e d by using 1 p a r t v e r m o u t h to 3
or 4 parts kirsch.

No. 2 ( B y A l b e r t of the C h a t h a m B a r )

S a m e as N o . 1 , b u t w i t h the addition of a tea­

spoonful of cherry liqueur to e a c h drink. T h e
comments w i t h respect to i m p r o v i n g N o . 1 a p p l y
equally to N o . 2 .

249
 No. 3 (Also a Parisian recipe)
1 p a r t Noilly P r a t V e r m o u t h
4 parts G i n
1 teaspoonful C h e r r y L i q u e u r to each drink
Stir. D e c o r a t e w i t h a cherry.

No. 4 ( A m e r i c a n recipe)

1 part Noilly Prat Vermouth

1 part Dubonnet
8 parts G i n
1 teaspoonful G r e n a d i n e to e a c h drink

Stir. D e c o r a t e w i t h a cherry. A twist of lemon

o v e r e a c h drink.

RUMBA

1 part Gin
2 parts J a m a i c a R u m
1 or 2 dashes G r e n a d i n e to e a c h drink

S h a k e thoroughly w i t h crushed ice.

W h o e v e r thought u p this snootful of liquid d y n a -
mite certainly liked his liquor h a r d ! While the above
is the original recipe, it c a n be greatly i m p r o v e d by
a d d i n g 1 p a r t lime or lemon j u i c e a n d either a n e x t r a
few dashes of g r e n a d i n e or a n equivalent a m o u n t of
sugar syrup.

R U S S I A N T h i s cocktail is, in effect, a B u r r a P e g ( p a g e

2 1 9 ) without the sugar. T a k e 1 j i g g e r c o g n a c a n d 1
dash A n g o s t u r a for each drink. S h a k e w i t h c r a c k e d
ice a n d strain into pre-chilled saucer c h a m p a g n e glass.
Fill glass w i t h chilled c h a m p a g n e a n d decorate w i t h a
twist of lemon.
A n o t h e r cocktail of the same n a m e — a n d the in-
gredients of w h i c h m o r e truly justify the n a m e —
consists of 1 p a r t crème de c a c a o to 3 or 4 parts v o d k a .
S h a k e w i t h cracked ice.

250
SANTIAGO

1 part Curaçao
2 parts Lime Juice
8 parts White Label Rum
2 or 3 dashes Jamaica Rum to each drink
Shake with cracked or crushed ice.
See also page III.

SAVANNAH

1 part Orange Juice

3 parts G i n
1 teaspoonful C r 7 m e de C a c a o to e a c h drink
1 E g g W h i t e to e a c h 2 drinks

Shake.
If y o u h a v e a n y friends w h o are A l e x a n d e r addicts,
try this drink on them. I do not especially r e c o m m e n d
it except as a m e a n s of w e a n i n g a n A l e x a n d e r baby.

SCAFFAS T h e Scaffa is the same as the C h a m p e r e l l e ,

p a g e 2 2 0 . I t is usually called a B R A N D Y S C A F F A .
T h e usual liquors, served in a sherry glass a n d p o u r e d
carefully to keep them separate—like a P o u s s e - C a f é —
are as f o l l o w s : raspberry syrup, maraschino, green
Chartreuse, c o g n a c . A dash of A n g o s t u r a is sometimes
used to top the drink.

SCARLETT O'HARA
1 part Cranberry Juice
2 parts L i m e J u i c e
8 parts Southern C o m f o r t

Shake with crushed ice. You can use canned cranberry

juice for this drink or you can substitute grenadine.
The original recipe calls for 1 part cranberry juice
to 2 of Southern Comfort, with merely a dash of lime
juice. However, although I am a devoted Cape
Codder, I just don't like cranberries in any form, and
251
 I therefore r e c o m m e n d keeping the proportion of this
brackish, puckery liquid at a m i n i m u m . T h i s also
makes a n excellent frozen cocktail—even w i t h the
cranberry j u i c e .

S E E S A W S t r a i g h t cognac w i t h 3 or 4 dashes each of

Benedictine a n d F r e n c h v e r m o u t h a n d 1 dash of
bitters to each drink. S h a k e .

SEVENTH HEAVEN

1 part Maraschino
2 parts G r a p e f r u i t J u i c e
8 parts G i n

S h a k e w i t h cracked ice.
O . K . if y o u like it, but I ' l l take the fourth or fifth
h e a v e n w i t h lime or lemon j u i c e instead of grapefruit.

S H A K E S A S h a k e contains the same ingredients as a

S o u r but in s o m e w h a t different proportions. T h e usual
proportion is 2 teaspoonfuls sugar syrup a n d 3 tea-
spoonfuls lemon j u i c e w i t h 2 to 3 ounces of spirituous
liquor.
O b s e r v i n g these proportions w i t h the p r o p e r base
liquor, y o u c a n produce the B R A N D Y S H A K E , GIN
SHAKE, R U M SHAKE, APPLEJACK SHAKE, W H I S K Y
S H A K E , V O D K A S H A K E , a n d so on.

SHANGHAI

1 part Cointreau
2 parts Lime Juice
2 parts Italian Vermouth
8 parts Rye

S h a k e w i t h c r a c k e d ice.

S H E R R Y A N D B I T T E R S L i k e v e r m o u t h a n d the other
a r o m a t i c wines, a good dry sherry—preferably an
252
 a m o n t i l l a d o — m a y be combined w i t h A n g o s t u r a or
other a r o m a t i c bitters to m a k e a n excellent tonic a n d
appetizer. U s e 2 to 3 dashes of bitters to e a c h j i g g e r
of sherry a n d stir thoroughly. I f ice is used at all ( a n d
it is preferable not to use i t ) , use only large cubes a n d
d o not a l l o w the w i n e to r e m a i n in contact w i t h the
ice a n y longer t h a n necessary.

S H E R R Y A N D EGG T h i s drink is a k i n to the various

Pousse-Café a n d egg drinks, such as the Pousse
l ' A m o u r ( p a g e 2 4 7 ) , etc., e x c e p t that it uses only one
liquor instead of a g a l a x y of them. L i k e the others,
however, a n d like the Flips, it is both food a n d drink.
P u t about a tablespoonful of sherry in a sherry glass
and twirl to w e t the entire inside of the glass. B r e a k
into the glass a w h o l e egg. T h e n fill the glass w i t h
sherry. S o m e recipes call for the yolk only, but the
whole egg is preferable. T h i s is a n excellent tonic.
A n y other fortified w i n e or a spirituous l i q u o r c a n
be used in place of the sherry. T h u s y o u m a y h a v e
PORT A N D EGG, M A D E I R A A N D EGG, B R A N D Y
A N D E G G , B O U R B O N A N D E G G , etc.

S H I R L E Y J A N E Straight rye w i t h a teaspoonful sugar

and 2 or 3 dashes grenadine to e a c h drink. P r e p a r e
and serve like a n O l d - F a s h i o n e d .

SLEEPY HOLLOW

1 part S u g a r S y r u p
1 part Apricot Liqueur
4 parts L e m o n J u i c e
10 parts G i n
1 sprig M i n t to e a c h drink

M u d d l e the mint w i t h the lemon j u i c e a n d sugar. A d d

the liquors a n d shake thoroughly w i t h crushed ice.

253
S L O E B E R R Y Sloe gin w i t h 2 dashes e a c h of A n g o s t u r a
a n d orange bitters to e a c h drink.
T h i s a n d the sloe gin cocktails below a r e included
as a m a t t e r of information only a n d a r e not recom­
m e n d e d . Sloe gin is too sweet for use as a cocktail base.

SLOE GIN T h e r e a r e t w o versions of this cocktail, one

m a d e w i t h I t a l i a n v e r m o u t h a n d lemon j u i c e , the
other w i t h F r e n c h v e r m o u t h . H e r e they a r e :

Sweet: O n e p a r t lemon j u i c e , 2 parts I t a l i a n

v e r m o u t h , a n d 4 parts sloe gin. A dash of A n ­
gostura to each drink. Stir.

D r y : E q u a l parts of F r e n c h v e r m o u t h a n d
sloe gin. O n e dash each of A n g o s t u r a a n d orange
bitters to e a c h drink. Stir.

SLOPPY JOE'S

1 p a r t Port
1 part Cognac
2 parts P i n e a p p l e J u i c e
1 d a s h e a c h of G r e n a d i n e & C u r a ç a o to e a c h drink

S h a k e w i t h c r a c k e d ice. N o t a true cocktail because

of the large proportion of pineapple juice. T h i s defect
can be remedied by increasing the cognac from 1 to
3 or 4 parts a n d reducing the pineapple juice from 2
parts to 1 .

S M A S H E S T h e S m a s h is a short J u l e p . I n other words,

it consists of fresh mint, sugar, a n d a n y spirituous
liquor.
F o r e a c h drink, gently crush a sprig of mint with a
teaspoonful of s u g a r syrup and, if desired, a dash of
bitters in a b a r glass. A d d crushed ice a n d 2 to 4
ounces (according to the size of the glass in w h i c h the
drink is to be served) of the desired liquor. S h a k e
thoroughly a n d strain into the glasses.
O r i g i n a l l y the S m a s h w a s served in a S o u r or D e l -

254
 monico glass or in a fancy wineglass a n d w a s decorated
with pineapple, berries, slices of orange a n d lemon,
a n d a sprig of mint. I t m a y , h o w e v e r , be served in a
S o u r glass or even in a cocktail glass w i t h n o decora-
tions other t h a n perhaps a cherry a n d a small sprig of
mint.
A c c o r d i n g to the liquor used, y o u c a n h a v e a
BRANDY S M A S H , a GIN S M A S H , a B O U R B O N
S M A S H , a R Y E S M A S H , a SCOTCH S M A S H , a R U M
SMASH, an APPLEJACK SMASH, a VODKA S M A S H ,
etc.

S N A P P E R E x c e p t for the base liquor used, the original

recipe for this drink is like the original recipe for the
S t i n g e r — e q u a l parts of white crème de m e n t h e a n d
gin. L i k e the Stinger, it can be converted into a m o r e
acceptable drink by using 1 p a r t lime juice, 2 parts
crème de menthe, a n d 6 to 8 parts of the base liquor
— i n this case gin.
C o m p a r e the Stinger, E m e r a l d , D e v i l (on p a g e 1 4 3 )
and Shamrock, page 1 6 3 .

S O U L K I S S E q u a l parts of F r e n c h v e r m o u t h , I t a l i a n
vermouth, a n d Dubonnet, w i t h 1 o r 2 teaspoonfuls of
orange j u i c e to e a c h drink.
W h a t a placid, unemotional soul the g u y that
n a m e d this drink must h a v e h a d !
T w o other drinks also b e a r this same misleading
name. T h e first is a Pousse-Café of m a r a s c h i n o a n d
C r è m e Y v e t t e , decorated w i t h a m a r a s c h i n o cherry.
T h e second is a bit more vigorous a n d consists of equal
parts of F r e n c h vermouth, B y r r h , a n d whisky w i t h a
dash of sugar syrup a n d 1 or 2 spoonfuls of orange
juice to e a c h drink.

SOUTHAMPTON

1 part Cherry Heering

4 parts C o g n a c
1 dash Bitters to e a c h drink

255
 S h a k e w i t h cracked ice. A twist of lemon o v e r each
glass. T h e original recipe also calls for sugar syrup,
but the liqueur makes the drink m o r e than sweet
enough without the sugar.

S O U T H E R N B E A U T Y J u i c e of half a large lime, 1 egg

white, a n d 2 dashes A n g o s t u r a to each drink. S h a k e
vigorously a n d long w i t h crushed ice.
T h i s is another drink for the teetotalers. C o m p a r e
the Pussyfoot, p a g e 2 4 8 .

SOUTHERN COMFORT

1 part L i m e Juice
4 parts S o u t h e r n C o m f o r t
1 dash F r e n c h V e r m o u t h to e a c h drink

S h a k e w i t h c r a c k e d ice. N o t e that the Southern C o m ­

fort is, in itself, sweet enough so that no sugar is
necessary a n d none should be used.

SOVIET

1 part French Vermouth

1 part D r y Sherry
6 parts V o d k a

Stir w i t h l a r g e ice cubes.

S T O L E N KISS

1 part Sugar Syrup

2 parts Absinthe
6 parts G i n
1 E g g W h i t e to each 2 drinks

S h a k e w i t h cracked or crushed ice.

256
STONE
1 part Dry Sherry
1 part Italian Vermouth
4 parts White Label Rum
Stir with large ice cubes.

SUISSESSE Straight absinthe with 1 teaspoonful sugar

syrup and 1 egg white to each 2 drinks. A few dashes
of anisette may be added if desired. Also, some recipes
call for 1 part French vermouth to 2 parts absinthe
instead of straight absinthe.
This drink should be shaken long and vigorously
with crushed ice. It is usually served in a Delmonico
or Sour glass. An interesting variation is to serve in
hollow-stemmed champagne glasses. Fill the stem with
green crème de menthe, drop a maraschino cherry
over the hollow stem opening, and then pour in the
drink. This, supposedly, is a picker-upper for the cold,
gray dawn of the morning after.

SUNRISE
1 part Cointreau
2 parts Lemon Juice
8 parts White Label Rum
1 or 2 dashes Benedictine to each drink
Shake with cracked ice.
Compare the Maiden's Prayer, page 240, Olympic,
page 243, and Santiago, page 251.

SUNSHINE
1 part French Vermouth
2 parts Pineapple Juice
6 parts White Label Rum
1 or 2 dashes Grenadine to each drink
Stir with cracked ice.
See also the Sundowner, page 144.
257
S W E E T AND LOVELY

1 p a r t M a r a s c h i n o & G r e n a d i n e , half & half

2 parts L i m e J u i c e
3 parts G i n
5 parts A p p l e j a c k

S h a k e w i t h cracked ice.

SWEET DREAM

1 part Apricot Liqueur

2 parts Pineapple Juice
4 parts White Label R u m
4 parts Gin

S h a k e w i t h cracked ice. D e c o r a t e w i t h a c h e r r y or a
twist of orange peel.

SWISS SPECIAL

1 part G i n
1 p a r t Swiss K i r s c h
2 parts R y e

S h a k e w i t h cracked ice. D e c o r a t e w i t h a c h e r r y a n d
float 1/2 teaspoonful G r a n d M a r n i e r on e a c h drink.
Swiss kirsch is prescribed because it is s o m e w h a t
sweeter than other varieties. I f a dry kirsch, such as
S c h w a r z w ä l d e r , is used, a d d 1 or 2 dashes s u g a r syrup
for e a c h drink.

TAMMANY T h i s is a M e d i u m M a r t i n i w i t h a dash of
absinthe.

T E Q U I L A T h i s is simply a T e q u i l a S o u r , m a d e like any

other S o u r , but w i t h tequila as the base liquor.

THISTLE A sweet M a n h a t t a n using Scotch whisky.

258
TIPPERARY

1 part French Vermouth

3 parts G i n
1 teaspoonful e a c h O r a n g e J u i c e & G r e n a d i n e to each
drink
1 sprig M i n t to e a c h drink

M u d d l e the mint with the orange j u i c e a n d grenadine.

A d d the v e r m o u t h a n d gin a n d stir w i t h c r a c k e d ice.
S o m e recipes call for I t a l i a n v e r m o u t h instead of
F r e n c h . Others call for sloe gin instead of dry gin a n d
omit the mint.

TOVARICH

1 part Kümmel
2 parts Lime Juice
8 parts Vodka
S h a k e w i t h c r a c k e d ice.

TROPICAL

1 part Lime Juice

4 parts Jamaica Rum
Crushed, sweetened Pineapple
1 dash Grenadine to each drink
Sprinkle a fair-sized slice of fresh pineapple with sugar
and crush in a bar glass with a muddler or, better still,
in a Waring Blendor. Place the crushed pineapple with
the other ingredients in a shaker with crushed ice and
shake long and vigorously. The drink may be strained
into a cocktail glass or may be poured, ice, pineapple
shreds, and all, into a large wineglass and served with
straws.
There are two other and quite dissimilar drinks that
are also called Tropicals. The first consists of 1 part
crème de vanille to 2 parts cognac. The second con-
sists of 1 part crème de cacao, 1 part maraschino, and
259
 2 parts d r y v e r m o u t h , w i t h a dash of orange bitters to
e a c h drink. N e i t h e r of these latter t w o T r o p i c a l s c a n
properly be called a cocktail.

T U R F A D r y M a r t i n i w i t h 1 or 2 dashes e a c h of m a r a ­
schino, Angostura, a n d orange bitters to e a c h drink.
T h e s a m e drink w i t h a dash of absinthe is called the
TUXEDO.

U N I O N CLUB

1 part Orange Curaçao

2 parts Lime Juice
8 parts Rye
2 dashes each Orgeat & Grenadine to each drink
1 Egg White to each 2 drinks
Shake with cracked ice.

UPTOWN

1 part L i m e Juice
1 part Orange Juice
1 part Pineapple Juice
6 parts J a m a i c a R u m
1 dash e a c h C o i n t r e a u , G r e n a d i n e , & O r a n g e Bitters
t o e a c h drink

S h a k e w i t h c r a c k e d or crushed ice.

V A L E N C I A T h e r e a r e t w o entirely different cocktails

t h a t b e a r this n a m e . T h e first consists of equal parts
of dry sherry a n d a p p l e j a c k w i t h 2 or 3 dashes of
o r a n g e juice. T h e second consists of 1 p a r t orange
j u i c e to 2 parts apricot b r a n d y w i t h 2 or 3 dashes of
orange bitters. I n e a c h case the drink should be
thoroughly shaken w i t h c r a c k e d or crushed ice.
260
V I R G I N E q u a l parts F o r b i d d e n Fruit, w h i t e crème de
menthe, a n d gin. S h a k e .
S h o u l d be called the F O O L I S H V I R G I N , for only
someone v e r y young, v e r y unsophisticated, a n d v e r y
foolish w o u l d w a n t this conglomeration as a cocktail.
T h e S w e e t M a r t i n i , w h e n m a d e w i t h orange bitters
instead of A n g o s t u r a , is also sometimes called the
Virgin.

V O D K A Straight v o d k a w i t h 1 or 2 dashes of y o u r
favorite bitters.

VODKA SPECIAL
1 p a r t C r è m e de C a c a o
2 parts L e m o n J u i c e
8 parts V o d k a
S h a k e thoroughly w i t h cracked or crushed ice.
A n o t h e r V o d k a S p e c i a l uses cherry liqueur in p l a c e
of crème de c a c a o a n d lime j u i c e in place of lemon.

VOLGA
1 part L i m e Juice
1 part Orange Juice
4 parts V o d k a
2 dashes G r e n a d i n e to each drink
1 dash O r a n g e Bitters to each drink
S h a k e thoroughly w i t h cracked or crushed ice.

WAGON WHEEL
1 part Grenadine
2 parts Lemon Juice
3 parts Cognac
5 parts Southern Comfort
Shake with cracked ice. Also makes a good frozen
cocktail.
261
 WALDORF A S w e e t M a n h a t t a n w i t h several dashes
e a c h of absinthe a n d Angostura.

WALDORF-ASTORIA

1 part Grenadine
2 parts L i m e J u i c e
8 parts A p p l e j a c k

S h a k e w i t h c r a c k e d ice.
T h i s , of course, is merely the J a c k R o s e with lime
j u i c e substituted for the lemon.

WHITE

1 p a r t Anisette
5 parts G i n
1 dash O r a n g e Bitters to each drink

S h a k e w i t h cracked ice. A twist of lemon peel over

e a c h glass.

WHITE BABY

1 part Cointreau
2 parts L i m e J u i c e
8 parts G i n

S h a k e w i t h cracked ice.
T h i s , of course, is simply a White L a d y ( p a g e 1 2 3 )
without the egg white a n d with lime juice in place of
lemon.

WHITE LION

1 part Grenadine
2 parts L i m e J u i c e (put in shell of 1/2 lime)
1 part Curaçao
7 parts White L a b e l R u m

Shake.
262
WHITE ROSE Equal parts of gin and kirsch with 1
teaspoonful sugar syrup to each drink and 1 egg white
to each 2 drinks.
There is also another cocktail called the White Rose
which is the White, above, with the addition of 1 egg
white to each 2 drinks.

WHITE VELVET This is the same as the White Baby,

above, but with Pineapple Juice substituted for the
Lime Juice.

WIDOW'S DREAM This is a Benedictine Flip (see Flips,

page 230), topped off in the glass with sweet cream.
And may heaven help the poor widows if that is
what their dreams are like!

YACHT CLUB
1 part Italian Vermouth
3 parts Gold Label Rum
1 dash Apricot Liqueur to each drink
Stir.

YOU AND I A Whisky Sour with orange curaçao in

place of sugar syrup.

ZA-ZA The most common version of this drink is equal

parts of gin and Dubonnet, decorated with a twist of
lemon peel.
A second version substitutes sloe gin for the dry gin.
A third version substitutes dry sherry for the gin.
Still another version consists of a Sweet Martini
with a dash of crème de menthe.

ZOMBIE This is undoubtedly the most overadvertised,

overemphasized, overexalted, and foolishly feared
drink whose claims to glory ever assaulted the eyes
and ears of the gullible American public.
Actually, as a drink, it is not bad at all; but the
263
claims made for it and the advertising by which it has
been touted, as well as one feature of the formula,
offend my sensibilities in three respects.
First of all, I am allergic to secret formulas for
mixing drinks at a bar or in the home. The Zombie
formula is supposed to be the jealously guarded secret
of Don the Beachcomber, of Hollywood. One of the
rum distilleries, however, states that they devised the
original formula. Charles Baker, Jr., states that he
invented a quite different formula some two years
ahead of Don the Beachcomber. All this mystery, of
course, is calculated to inspire curiosity and thus ad­
vertise the drink.
Second, I am also allergic to any fear-inspiring
slogan such as "Only two to a customer." Everyone
except Caspar Milquetoast, of course, comes back for
a third just to pit his personal prowess against the
allegedly devastating power of the drink. This not only
is the cheapest type of advertising; it is also a steal
and a perversion of the old claim of Southern Comfort
of a "self-imposed limit of two to a person."
Third, the multiplicity of various rums and other
ingredients is an offense against the first principles of
drink mixing and adds nothing to the flavor or other
value of the drink. Two rums—white Cuban for the
base and a dash of Jamaica for flavor—would do as
well as four or five. The 151-proof Demerara adds
nothing to the flavor of the drink, and the quantity
used is too microscopic to add appreciably to the
alcoholic strength. The mere mention of 151-proof
liquor, however, is sufficient to add to the mental
hazard of the unsophisticated consumer of the drink.
Twenty different bars serving this drink will prob­
ably put out eighteen to twenty different versions of it.
In the main, however, each drink will be concocted
approximately as follows:
3
1 teaspoonful Sugar Syrup
1/2 to 3/4 ounce Lime Juice
3
Falernum or orgeat may be used in place of the sugar syrup.
264
 4
3/4 ounce fresh Pineapple Juice
1 ounce White Label Rum
5
2 ounces Gold Label Rum
1 ounce Jamaica Rum
6
2 teaspoonfuls Apricot Liqueur
1
/2 to 3/4 ounce mysterious ingredient 7

The above ingredients are shaken with crushed ice and

poured, with the ice, into a Zombie glass (a 14- to 16-
ounce Collins glass will do just as well). From 1/2 to 1
teaspoonful of 151 -proof Demerara rum is then floated
on top and the drink is decorated with slices of orange
and lemon, pink and green cherries, a pineapple stick,
and several sprigs of mint. Finally, powdered sugar
is sprinkled over all. And there, brother, is your
Zombie, grandfather of all pixies, and great-uncle to
the gremlins.
This, of course, is not a cocktail at all but a tall
drink. However, since it is commonly, although
erroneously, referred to as a Z O M B I E COCKTAIL, I
am putting the formula here near the end of the cock­
tail recipes and, if you please, as an introduction to
the chapter on tall drinks.

ZOOM

1 part Honey
2 parts S w e e t C r e a m
8 parts Cognac
4
The less conscientious bars, of course, may use canned, un­
sweetened pineapple juice.
5Just for the sake of making it more complicated this may be
changed to 1 ounce gold label rum and 1 ounce Barbados or
Haitian rum.
6
For the same reason this may be changed to 1 teaspoonful
apricot and 1 teaspoonful cherry. Sometimes the liqueurs are
used and sometimes brandies.
7
This is usually papaya juice. Sometimes it is coconut juice.
Sometimes—and preferably—this ingredient is omitted alto­
gether.
265
S h a k e vigorously w i t h c r a c k e d or crushed ice. T h e
honey m a y be dissolved in a small a m o u n t of boiling
w a t e r if desired.
While the Z o o m is basically a cognac drink, other
liquors m a y be substituted, thereby providing a GIN
Z O O M , KIRSCH Z O O M , R U M Z O O M , W H I S K Y
Z O O M , etc., as desired.

266
 11
TALL DRINKS

As noted at the beginning of the last chapter, I regard

as a short drink anything that should be served in a
glass holding up to 4 or 5 ounces and as a long or tall
drink anything that should be served in a glass con­
taining 6 ounces or more. Many bars have three sizes
of so-called Highball glasses: the standard Highball
glass holding 6 ounces, the tall Highball glass holding
8 ounces, and the short Highball glass holding only
4 ounces. To me, nothing smaller than a 6-ounce glass
can properly be called a Highball glass, and even that
is rather skimpy. Moreover, as previously pointed out,
I regard any drink containing any appreciable amount
of carbonated beverage as inherently a tall drink. One
can, of course, if his taste is sufficiently perverted,
serve a Tom Collins in a liqueur glass or a Martini
in a 16-ounce Collins glass. The Collins would still
remain, in character, a tall drink despite the Lilliputian
size of the glass, and the Martini would still remain a
cocktail—or perhaps four or five cocktails—served in a
single glass. It is for this reason that I regard the Old-
Fashioneds served at most bars, not as Old-Fashioned
cocktails, but as short Rye or Bourbon Highballs be-
267
 cause they are topped off w i t h a n ounce or m o r e of
w a t e r , either c h a r g e d or plain.
W h e n w e come to classifying o u r tall drinks w e at
once find ourselves i n serious difficulty. W h a t is a
H i g h b a l l ? H o w does it differ from a B u c k ? W h a t is
the difference between a Collins a n d a Fizz? B e t w e e n
a Collins a n d a R i c k e y ? T h e real trouble is that one
b a r devised a certain combination of ingredients a n d
called it b y a certain n a m e — s a y , a H i g h b a l l , a n d a n ­
other b a r p u t out a w h o l l y analogous drink w i t h a
different base liquor a n d called it b y a different n a m e
— s a y , a B u c k . T h e drinks w e r e invented a n d n a m e d
b y different people in different places w i t h no effort
to stick to a n y generic designations. T h e r e is little, if
any, difference b e t w e e n F i x e s a n d Daisies or b e t w e e n
Punches a n d C u p s . A C u p should be m a d e i n large
quantity a n d served in i n d i v i d u a l cups. B u t a P u n c h
a l s o — w h e n m a d e for a large party—is m a d e in a
P u n c h b o w l a n d is served in cups. A n d , if so desired,
either m a y be m a d e a n d served in individual portions.
W h e r e there are recognizable distinctions between
one type of drink a n d another I h a v e tried to point
t h e m out. L e t us remember, h o w e v e r , that there a r e
different schools of thought o n m a n y matters of
nomenclature a n d it is, at the best, difficult to say
w h o is right a n d w h o is w r o n g .

Highballs
W h a t is a H i g h b a l l ? T h e best dictionary definition
that I h a v e been able to find says t h a t it is a drink of
whisky diluted w i t h a carbonated b e v e r a g e a n d iced.
B u t w h a t kind of w h i s k y — S c o t c h , rye, bourbon, Irish,
or C a n a d i a n ? H o w about v o d k a , w h i c h is also a
whisky? A n d w h a t kind of carbonated b e v e r a g e ? A n d ,
if Scotch a n d soda is a H i g h b a l l , w h y not b r a n d y a n d
soda? O r a p p l e j a c k a n d soda? O n e w r i t e r o n m i x ­
ology w h o has c o m p i l e d w h a t is p r o b a b l y one of the
largest collections of recipes e v e r published u n d e r the
covers of a single book treats a H i g h b a l l as almost a n y
268
combination of alcoholic (or even non-alcoholic) li­
quor with a so-called "filler" served in a 4-, 6-, or
8-ounce Highball glass. Who is right?
Actually it matters but little. No one ever orders
merely "a Highball," nor "a Whisky Highball," nor
even "a Scotch Highball" or "a Bourbon Highball."
The wise drinker does not even order "a Scotch and
soda" or "a bourbon and ginger ale"; he names not
only the type but also the brand of whisky along with
the type and, perhaps, the brand of carbonated bever­
age.
In an effort to start a movement for the purpose
of bringing some semblance of order out of chaos,
however, let us define a Highball as any tall iced
drink (6 ounces or more) consisting of a base liquid
(alcoholic or non-alcoholic) in combination with a
carbonated beverage and with or without auxiliary
coloring and flavoring agents, but definitely without
lemon or lime juice. If citrus juices are used the drink
becomes a Buck or a Collins or a Rickey and is no
longer a Highball.
Let us also agree that, while any carbonated bever­
age can be used in a Highball, such as ginger ale,
Coca-Cola, etc., it will always be assumed that, un­
less otherwise specified, a charged water, either plain
or alkaline (and preferably plain), is to be used, such
as seltzer, White Rock, Canada Dry Water, etc.
The usual proportions for a Highball are 11/2ounces
of the base liquid with 1 large cube of ice in a 6-ounce
Highball glass, with enough carbonated beverage
added to fill the glass to approximately from the
top. Stir quickly and lightly with a stirring rod or
small bar spoon. For an 8-ounce glass, use 2 ounces
of base liquid and 2 cubes of ice. For a very tall High­
ball or any other long drink that is to be sipped over
a fairly long period of time (such as at the bridge
table) be sure to use plenty of ice. Four to five cubes
is none too much for a 14- to 16-ounce Collins glass.
There is nothing more insipid than a lukewarm drink.
But remember, too, that as the ice melts the drink will
269
be diluted. Use plenty of liquor as well as plenty of ice.
A safe rule is i part of liquor to 4 parts of ice and
carbonated beverage combined for a small Highball
(6 to 8 ounces) and 1 to 3 for a very long one. It is,
of course, much better to make two small or medium-
sized drinks than one very large one, but there are
times when the host needs to participate in other ac­
tivities of the evening and cannot conveniently be
running to the kitchen every few minutes to replenish
glasses.
Following the above rules, you can turn out at will
any of the following: A P P L E J A C K H I G H B A L L , B O U R ­
BON HIGHBALL, BRANDY HIGHBALL, BYRRH
H I G H B A L L , D U B O N N E T H I G H B A L L , GIN H I G H B A L L ,
IRISH HIGHBALL, R U M HIGHBALL, R Y E HIGHBALL,
SCOTCH H I G H B A L L , V E R M O U T H H I G H B A L L , or
V O D K A H I G H B A L L . You can also make delicious
PROHIBITION HIGHBALLS for your teetotaler friends
by combining grape juice or other fruit syrups with
ginger ale. In this case, however, you should use a
larger proportion of the fruit juice—about 1 to 2. If
your stomach is a bit upset or squeamish and you
don't feel up to hard liquor, even in a dilute form,
try using, as the Highball base, 1 part of grenadine
to 2 or 3 parts of bitters and make an A N G O S T U R A
H I G H B A L L , a F E R N E T H I G H B A L L , o r a PICON H I G H ­
BALL.
You are by no means limited to the Highballs above
listed. Here, again, learn to "roll your own." Cognac
and applejack are not the only brandies that can be
used in Highballs. Cherry brandy with about half as
much grenadine as brandy makes an excellent
KIRSCH H I G H B A L L . Try the other brandies, such as
apricot, peach, pear, and raspberry, but, with these
brandies, use a few teaspoonfuls of a liqueur or syrup
to give body and character to the drink. You can use
either a liqueur of the same flavor as the brandy or of
a neutral flavor, such as maraschino, or a citrus flavor,
such as Triple Sec.
270
 A s a m a t t e r of fact, you c a n also create m a n y in-
teresting variations of y o u r other H i g h b a l l s b y a d d i n g
a few dashes of either a liqueur or bitters. T r y A n g o s -
tura or P e y c h a u d bitters w i t h y o u r bourbon a n d gin-
ger a l e ; D r a m b u i e w i t h y o u r Scotch a n d s o d a ; orgeat
with y o u r R u m H i g h b a l l s , a n d so on. G i n a n d ginger
ale, w i t h a dash of Angostura, is sometimes called a
GIN S P I D E R . R o l l ' e m yourself! H a l f the fun of drink
mixing consists of mentally "tasting" some n e w a n d
untried combination a n d then putting it together a n d
finding out w h e t h e r or not it tastes the w a y y o u
thought it w o u l d .
H e r e are a few m o r e tall drinks that fall within the
category of H i g h b a l l s as w e h a v e n o w defined H i g h -
balls.

POMPIER • E X P O R T - C A S S I S • VERMOUTH-CASSIS
T h i s triple-named drink is a very mild, refreshing, a n d
altogether excellent drink, particularly for a hot sum-
m e r afternoon or evening.

1 pony C r è m e de Cassis
1 jigger French Vermouth
1 large cube I c e .

Stir quickly in a 6- to 8-ounce glass, a d d charged

water to fill, stir once more, a n d serve.
T h e B Y R R H - C A S S I S uses B y r r h in place of the v e r -
m o u t h ; the D U B O N N E T - C A S S I S uses Dubonnet, a n d
so on. T h e CASSISCO, a p o p u l a r F r e n c h drink, uses
cognac in p l a c e of the v e r m o u t h .

CASSIS-KIRSCH • P O L I N C H E L L E M a d e like a V e r -
mouth-Cassis, b u t w i t h kirschwasser in place of the
vermouth.

VERMOUTH-CURAÇAO M a d e like a V e r m o u t h - C a s -
sis, but w i t h curaçao in place of the crème de cassis.
271
BYRRH-CITRON
1
1 pony Citron S y r u p
1 jigger Byrrh

P r e p a r e like the V e r m o u t h - C a s s i s .

DUBONNET-CITRON M a d e like a B y r r h - C i t r o n , but

w i t h D u b o n n e t i n place of B y r r h .

P I C O N - C I T R O N M a d e like a B y r r h - C i t r o n , but with

A m e r P i c o n i n p l a c e of B y r r h .

PICON-CURAÇAO M a d e like a Picon-Citron, b u t with

curaçao in place of the citron syrup.

S U I S S E S S E H I G H B A L L First frappé a Suissesse ( p a g e

2 5 7 ) , using a whole e g g white a n d anisette. Pour,
ice a n d all, into a H i g h b a l l glass, a d d m o r e ice if
needed, a n d fill w i t h c h a r g e d water.
L i k e t h e Suissesse, this is supposed to b e a picker-
upper.

CANADIAN GRENADIER G i n a n d ginger ale, b u t with

a small scoop of o r a n g e o r lemon ice i n p l a c e of ice
cubes to chill the drink.

H O R S E ' S NECK T h i s is the g r e a t what-is-it of the

H i g h b a l l tribe. O r i g i n a l l y it w a s a whisky drink a n d
Scotch, Irish, rye, or bourbon w a s used as requested.
T h e n it degenerated into a prohibition drink b y leav­
ing out the whisky. T h e n it degenerated still further
by putting i n gin.
W h i l e listed in some recipe books as a Collins (be-
1
Citron (see'-trohN) is French for lemon. Citron syrup is
lemon syrup. In Europe it can be obtained ready-made and
bottled. It is better, however, when freshly prepared by mix­
ing lemon juice and sugar syrup, about 2 to 1.
272
 cause served in a Collins glass), it definitely is not
a Collins: first, because it contains no lemon; second,
because it contains no sugar; and third, because it is
made with ginger ale, not club soda.
Peel a medium or large lemon in one continuous
spiral. Hang the peel in a Collins glass with just
enough over the edge of the glass and hanging out­
side to keep the peel in place. Place 3 or 4 large cubes
of ice in the glass and—
(a) for our teetotaler friend, fill with ginger ale.
This is known as a PLAIN HORSE'S NECK.
(b) for others, add 2 to 3 ounces of gin, Scotch,
Irish, rye, rum, applejack, or bourbon, as desired, and
then fill up with ginger ale. This is known as a
HORSE'S NECK WITH A KICK.

SPRITZER A Rhine-wine Highball consisting of Rhine

wine and charged water, approximately half and half.

Concerning Carbonated Beverages

Note that we have defined a Highball as a combina­
tion of some base liquid with a carbonated beverage.
Now, water, H O , just plain water, is one of the most
2

necessary and useful substances to be found on this

earth of ours. On occasion it is a most satisfying and
refreshing beverage. In fact, there are times when no
other beverage whatsoever can quite take the place
of water. It is useful in making infusions, such as
tea and coffee. It is necessary to sustain vegetable as
well as animal life. It can be used to warm our houses
and to cool our automobile engines. We need it to
wash our bodies, our dishes, and our clothes. So in­
dispensable is it that it was classed by the ancients as
one of the four essential elements, along with earth,
air, and fire. It is, indeed, one of the greatest of God's
gifts to man.
But, like the other three elements of the ancients,
there are places where it does belong and places where
it does not belong. You don't want earth in your soup,
273
 air in y o u r intestinal tract, or fire in y o u r icebox. A n d
one of the places w h e r e plain w a t e r distinctly does not
belong is in any alcoholic beverage. T h e r e m a y be a
few w e l l - m a r k e d exceptions, such as the Absinthe
D r i p , w h e r e the w a t e r serves a specific a n d well-de­
fined purpose, but these exceptions a r e very, very
few indeed.
A carbonated beverage in a Highball or Collins or
Rickey, of course, dilutes the liquor as much as would
the same quantity of plain water, but, to compensate
for this dilution, it adds to the drink a tang, a zip, a
zest, a sparkle. A good carbonated beverage actually
points up and enhances the flavor of the liquor. It
stimulates the taste buds and renders them more truly
appreciative of the bouquet of the accompanying
liquor.
Plain water, on the other hand, merely dilutes. It
takes away and gives nothing in return. You wouldn't
think of pouring water in your milk or your ginger
ale or your Coca-Cola, would you? Then, in heaven's
name, why think of pouring it in your bourbon or
your Scotch? A watered drink is always necessarily
a flat drink, a lifeless drink, an insipid drink. If you
don't like carbonated beverages (though it is hard to
imagine anyone not liking them), don't drink them;
but don't pour water in your whisky and call it a
Highball. Drink the whisky straight and use the water
as a chaser. Or take a claret or some other still wine,
or a lemonade, or a glass of milk, or a cup of coffee—
or even a glass of plain water. And, if you simply
must use still water in your whisky or other liquor,
use hot water, add a dash of soap flakes, and throw
it down the drain, where dishwater belongs. Then dry
the glass and pray for forgiveness for the sin of wast­
ing good liquor.

Bucks
T h e Bucks, the R i c k e y s , the Collinses, a n d the Fizzes
all differ from the H i g h b a l l in that they contain citrus

274
 juice, whereas the H i g h b a l l does not. I t is easier,
however, to distinguish them from the H i g h b a l l than
it is to distinguish them from one another. T h e orig­
inal B u c k w a s the G i n B u c k — a favorite of the pro­
hibition e r a — a n d it w a s m a d e w i t h ginger ale. F r o m
the G i n B u c k there developed various other Bucks,
a n d m a n y bartenders a n d recipe writers started
switching the carbonated b e v e r a g e along w i t h the base
liquor, w h i l e still calling the finished product a B u c k .
Actually, in m a n y cases, w h a t they turned out under
the n a m e of a B u c k w a s a R i c k e y or a Collins.
A n o t h e r distinguishing feature of the original G i n
B u c k w a s that a q u a r t e r of a lemon w a s squeezed into
the glass with a h a n d squeezer a n d the lemon itself
dropped into the glass w i t h the juice.
Still another feature of the B u c k is that n o sugar is
used, the ginger a l e — e v e n a v e r y dry, p a l e ginger
ale—furnishing sufficient sweetening.
I n m a k i n g o u r Bucks, therefore, let us retain all
three of these features. T h e amounts g i v e n b e l o w a r e
for a 10- to 1 2 - o u n c e H i g h b a l l glass.

GIN BUCK C u t a large lemon into quarters a n d

squeeze one q u a r t e r into a H i g h b a l l glass, d r o p p i n g
the lemon in w i t h the j u i c e . A d d 2 or 3 ice cubes a n d
3 ounces gin, fill glass w i t h ginger ale, a n d stir. S o m e
recipes call for 1/2 lime in place of the 1/4 lemon.
The APPLEJACK BUCK, BRANDY BUCK, R U M
B U C K , a n d W H I S K Y B U C K a r e all m a d e e x a c t l y the
same except for using the a p p r o p r i a t e liquor to re­
place the gin.
W h e n m a d e w i t h Scotch whisky, this drink is called
2
a M A M I E T A Y L O R . T h i s drink antedates even the
G i n B u c k , but, as originally concocted, the j u i c e of the
lemon only w a s used a n d not the flesh a n d rind.
A n interesting v a r i a t i o n of the R u m B u c k s m a y be
h a d by a d d i n g a f e w dashes of C o i n t r e a u or orgeat
2
Some of the other Bucks are sometimes dubbed "Taylors"
also. Thus the Gin Buck is called MAMIE'S SISTER, the Bour­
bon Buck is MAMIE'S SOUTHERN SISTER, and the Rum Buck is
SUSIE TAYOR.

275
 w h e n using C u b a n r u m a n d a few dashes of falernum
w h e n using J a m a i c a rum.

Rickeys
H e r e is another drink as to w h i c h confusion reigns
a m o n g both authors a n d dispensers. E v e n as pains­
taking a dictionary as M a c m i l l a n ' s defines a R i c k e y
as a "drink containing spiritous liquor, lime or lemon
j u i c e , a n d carbonated w a t e r . " O n e bartender's m a n ­
u a l distinguishes R i c k e y s from Collinses a n d Fizzes as
being a shorter drink a n d drier in that m o r e lime or
lemon j u i c e is used a n d less sugar.
Actually, all true R i c k e y s are m a d e w i t h l i m e s —
never w i t h lemons. Y o u r bartender m a y substitute
lemon j u i c e if he lacks limes or if he has p r e p a r e d
lemon j u i c e on h a n d a n d is in a hurry, but, if he does,
the drink is no longer a R i c k e y . T h e size of the glass is
purely incidental. T h e Collins is usually served in a
10- to 1 4 - o u n c e glass, but the Fizz, like the R i c k e y ,
is usually served in a n 8-ounce or e v e n smaller glass.
T h e t w o most c o m m o n a n d best-known R i c k e y s
a r e the G i n R i c k e y a n d the Sloe G i n R i c k e y . H o w ­
ever, a n y spirituous liquor m a y be used, a n d liqueurs,
perhaps, m a k e the most palatable R i c k e y s of all. I
h a v e introduced dozens of people, ranging all the w a y
from strict teetotaler to confirmed r u m h o u n d ,
to the A P R I C O T R I C K E Y a n d e a c h a n d every one has
pronounced it one of the most delicious beverages h e
has ever tasted. T h e tartness of the lime cuts the cloy­
ing sweetness of the apricot liqueur, a n d the t w o
flavors blend into one indescribably delectable w h o l e .
Of course, in offering this drink to m y prohibitionist
friends, I h a v e first m a d e sure that they w e r e familiar
w i t h the G R A P E JUICE R I C K E Y ( a splendid non­
alcoholic drink) a n d h a v e told them I w a s substituting
apricot j u i c e for the g r a p e j u i c e !
T h e original G i n R i c k e y w a s a very dry drink,
using little o r no sugar. I n the case of L i q u e u r

276
Rickeys no sugar is needed, for the liqueur itself
is plenty sweet. W i t h spirituous liquors, such as gin,
applejack, r u m , a n d whisky, however, the drink is
greatly i m p r o v e d for most tastes b y the addition of
a teaspoonful of s u g a r or liqueur. W i t h gin, try
maraschino or g r e n a d i n e ; w i t h rum, try orgeat or
f a l e r n u m ; a n d w i t h whisky or brandy, try curaçao.
H e r e is the basic f o r m u l a a n d , according to the li­
q u o r used, y o u c a n use it to m a k e a n y of the follow­
ing: A P P L E J A C K R I C K E Y , A P R I C O T R I C K E Y , B O U R ­
BON RICKEY, CHERRY RICKEY, GIN RICKEY, SLOE
GIN R I C K E Y , G R E N A D I N E R I C K E Y , I R I S H R I C K E Y ,
M A N D A R I N E R I C K E Y (especially d e l i c i o u s ) , PEACH
R I C K E Y , R U M R I C K E Y (any type of r u m ) , S O U T H E R N
C O M F O R T R I C K E Y (also s p l e n d i d ) , SCOTCH R I C K E Y
(see the Mamie Taylor), V O D K A RICKEY, etc.

J u i c e of 1 small or 1/2 large L i m e

2 ounces of the selected liquor
W i t h dry spirituous liquors use 1 tsp. S u g a r S y r u p

Stir together in a n 8-ounce glass, a d d 2 large ice cubes,

fill the glass w i t h charged w a t e r , stir again, a n d serve
with stirring rod or small b a r spoon.

F o r y o u r teetotaler friends, d o not overlook the P R O ­

H I B I T I O N R I C K E Y S , m a d e w i t h grape j u i c e , grena­
dine, or a n y other fruit syrup. A l s o the L I M E R I C K E Y ,
m a d e w i t h a teaspoonful of sugar a n d the juice of a
whole l i m e — r e a l l y a L i m e a d e . I f y o u like a drink a
bit on the bitter side (but not too m u c h s o ) , try A m e r
Picon. V E R M O U T H R I C K E Y S , D U B O N N E T R I C K E Y S ,
etc., are also refreshing, palatable, a n d v e r y m i l d . T h e
R O Y A L R I C K E Y is a G i n R i c k e y w i t h the addition of
a pony of v e r m o u t h a n d either a half dozen crushed,
fresh raspberries or a teaspoonful of raspberry syrup.
Before the development of the large seedless F l o r i d a
limes, the small Persian limes w e r e squeezed w i t h a
hand squeezer a n d the lime shell w a s d r o p p e d in the

277
 glass just as is done with the lemon in making a Buck.
Today it is optional to use the shell or only the juice.
An interesting and delicious variation of the
Rickeys may be had by using kumquats in place of
limes. We usually think of kumquats as belonging to
the orange family. The Chinese, however, call them
golden limes. Use 2 to 3 kumquats in place of 1 lime.
Squeeze with a small lime squeezer and add the shell
of half a squeezed kumquat to the juice. A dash of
orange-flower water may also be added if desired. The
French Eau de Fleurs d'Oranger is the best.

Collinses
The Collins is the tallest of tall drinks and is so served
at practically all bars. A special glass has even been
created for it—the Collins glass—which holds 12, 14,
or even 16 ounces as against the ordinary bar Highball
glass of 6 ounces.
Basically, the Collins is simply a Sour served in
a tall glass with ice and charged water. Or, stated in
another way, it is a lemonade made with charged
water and spiked with gin or some other liquor.
Originally there were two brothers only in the
Collins family—Tom and John. During recent years,
however, numerous cousins have appeared on the
scene—Pedro, Pierre, Sandy, Mike, Jack, the Colonel,
and several others whose first names have not yet been
officially recorded in the baptismal registry.
The original Collinses were always made with gin
but, strangely enough, never with London dry gin—
the very liquor that is practically always used in mak­
ing a Collins today. The Tom Collins was made with
Old Tom gin and the John Collins with Holland gin.
Holland gin has a strong, aromatic flavor all its own
and, as has previously been noted, it does not blend
satisfactorily with any other liquor, with citrus juices,
or, in fact, with anything except, perhaps, bitters.
Consequently, the John Collins was never popular in
this country and today it is practically unknown.
278
 The adoption of London dry gin as a Collins base
gave rise to two schools of nomenclature. With one
school it was simply substituted for Old Tom gin in
the Tom Collins. The other school, however, pre­
ferred to retain the Tom Collins name for the original
drink made with Old Tom gin and, since Holland
gin was practically never used any more in a Collins,
they transferred the John Collins name to the Collins
made with London dry gin. This accounts for the
confusion that exists in present-day books of recipes.
In some the Tom recipe calls for Old Tom gin and
the John recipe for dry gin; in others the Tom recipe
calls for dry gin and the John recipe for Holland gin.
Actually, of course, Old Tom gin is merely a sweet­
ened London gin. Consequently, we can make our
Tom Collins with either Old Tom or London dry gin,
but, if Old Tom gin is used, the quantity of sugar
should be reduced by about a half.
Another modern innovation in the making of Col­
linses is the use of a special citric-flavored, carbonated
beverage called "Tom Collins Mix." All that is neces­
sary is to add the gin or other liquor to the "Tom
Collins Mix" and sweeten to taste. This produces a
reasonably palatable drink and, of course, much time
and effort are saved. The beverage does not, however,
compare with a real Collins made with fresh lemon
juice.
In making a Collins, have the charged water
thoroughly pre-chilled. Use 3 to 4 large cubes of ice
and a 14- to 16-ounce Collins glass. Stir quickly and
briefly. This is a long drink, to be consumed slowly
and with reverence and meditation. It should not be
allowed to go flat, and either the use of a warm
charged water or prolonged stirring will release the
carbon dioxide in the water and render the drink
stale and insipid.
Here is the Tom Collins formula together with the
list of the various other relatives and the liquor used in
each:

279
TOM COLLINS
i tablespoonful Sugar Syrup
Juice of i medium-sized Lemon
3 to 4 ounces (2 jiggers) Gin
Stir together in Collins glass, add 4 large ice cubes,
fill glass with charged water, stir again quickly, and
serve. If Old Tom gin is used, reduce sugar by half.

JOHN COLLINS Use Holland gin in place of Old Tom

or London dry.

COLONEL COLLINS or BOURBON COLLINS Use

bourbon in place of gin.

MIKE COLLINS or IRISH COLLINS Use Irish whisky.

JACK COLLINS or APPLE COLLINS Use Applejack.

PEDRO COLLINS or RUM COLLINS Use Cuban rum,

either white or gold label.
The Rum Collins, decorated with sprigs of mint,
is sometimes called a MOJITO (moe-hee'-toe).

PIERRE COLLINS or BRANDY COLLINS Use cognac.

SANDY COLLINS or SCOTCH COLLINS Use Scotch

whisky.

RYE COLLINS Use rye whisky.

VODKA COLLINS Use vodka.

CANADIAN COLLINS Use Canadian whisky and, in

place of sugar syrup, use maple syrup.
280
TEQUILA COLLINS U s e tequila.

GIN A N D T O N I C T h i s varies s o m e w h a t from the

r e g u l a r Collins formula, as will be noted. A d d 1 or
2 thin slices of lemon to 3 ounces of gin in a Collins
glass. P u t 3 or 4 large cubes of ice in the glass a n d fill
it u p w i t h quinine w a t e r .
R e m e m b e r that this is not merely a thirst q u e n c h e r
but also a tonic. I t does contain real quinine, a n d too
m u c h quinine, w h i l e not intoxicating in the ordinary
sense, nevertheless c a n produce a h e a d that feels like
a fully inflated balloon. T a k e due notice a n d g o v e r n
yourself accordingly.

Fizzes
W h a t is the difference, if any, between a T o m Collins
a n d a G i n Fizz? N o less an authority t h a n the late
G . S e l m e r F o u g n e r insisted that there w a s no dif­
ference a n d that the t w o " a r e identically the same
drink, m a d e in the same m a n n e r w i t h the same in­
gredients, the sole difference being that for the ' T o m
Collins' a larger glass is used." A s his authority (as
if the colonel needed a n y higher authority!) he
quoted from The Professional Bartenders Guide.
I t is, of course, true that the ingredients of both
drinks are the same. Unfortunately, it is also true
that today, at m a n y bars, a G i n Fizz is m a d e a n d
served like a short T o m Collins. T h i s , h o w e v e r , is
because the old-time siphon bottle has largely disap­
peared from o u r bars a n d has been replaced b y the
individual m e t a l - c a p p e d bottle of club soda or spar­
kling w a t e r .
N o w , for long drinks, such as the Collins a n d the
H i g h b a l l , that are to be consumed slowly o v e r a sub­
stantial length of time, the m o d e r n bottled carbonated
waters h a v e a tremendous a d v a n t a g e o v e r the old-
time siphon. T h e carbonic acid gas is given off slowly
in minute bubbles a n d the life of the drink is m a n y
times as long as it is in a drink in w h i c h the c h a r g e d

281
w a t e r is a d d e d under high pressure w i t h m u c h fizzing
a n d foaming. ( S e e Soda and Ginger Ale, p a g e 8 7 . )
Nevertheless, I insist that a Fizz should actually fizz—
just as a soda fizzes w h e n the soda j e r k e r reverses the
h a n d l e at the fountain a n d delivers a fine stream of
the carbonated w a t e r under high pressure into the
glass. T h e good colonel, unfortunately, overlooked
certain differences in the m e t h o d of p r e p a r i n g a n d
serving the two drinks, a n d it is those differences that
distinguish the Collins from the Fizz.
T h e Collins is m a d e i n a tall glass ( 1 4 to 1 6 ounces)
w i t h several ice cubes o r a n equivalent a m o u n t of
c r a c k e d ice in the glass a n d w i t h the charged w a t e r
p o u r e d in slowly a n d the w h o l e drink stirred very
briefly in order that it m a y retain its carbonation as
long as possible. T h e drink should be clear, like a
H i g h b a l l , a n d should never be permitted to "fizz."
T h e Fizz, on the other h a n d , should be thoroughly
frappéed w i t h fine ice (three or even five minutes of
shaking are none too l o n g ) , after w h i c h it is strained
into a 6- to 8-ounce glass a n d "fizzed" b y a d d i n g
c h a r g e d w a t e r in a fine stream u n d e r pressure. I t
should be served foaming e x a c t l y as the drinks served
y o u a t a soda fountain f o a m . H a r r y J o h n s o n , in
his Bartender's Manual published in the early eighties,
says, " B e a r in m i n d that all drinks called Fizz's must
b e drank as soon as h a n d e d out, or the natural taste
of the same is lost to the customer." H a r r y ' s g r a m m a r
m i g h t be i m p r o v e d upon, but he k n e w w h a t a Fizz
w a s . A n d if y o u can't get siphon bottles to use in m a k ­
ing y o u r Fizzes, I suggest that y o u acquire one of those
clever little gadgets that c a n b e attached to the or­
d i n a r y sparkling-water bottle a n d enable you, by
shaking the bottle a n d then depressing the v a l v e , to
deliver a stream under pressure similar to the siphon.
O r , as a n emergency measure, shake the bottle while
holding the t h u m b o v e r the top a n d then, holding
the bottle a t a n angle of about 4 5 ° , tilt the t h u m b
slightly a n d thus squirt the w a t e r into the glass.

T h e Fizz is a drink with w h i c h you c a n really g o

282
 to town in "rolling your own." Just remember that
basically it is simply a Sour (but with somewhat dif­
ferent proportions from those of the Sour-type cock­
tail) thoroughly frappéed and then fizzed up with
charged water. But remember, too, that the charged
water will cut down the sweetness of the sugar and
the sourness of the lemon or lime juice as well as the
strength of the liquor. For the Sour-type cocktail I
have recommended the 1-2-8 formula, not to make
the cocktail "strong," but to prevent it from being
either sickish-sweet from the sugar or puckerish-sour
from the citrus juice. For the Fizz, you will find it
hard to improve on the old formula of 1—or a little
less—sweet (sugar, fruit syrup, or liqueur), 2 sour
(lime or lemon juice), 3—or a little more—strong
(spirituous liquor), and 4 weak (charged water and
ice). If you will keep these simple principles firmly
in mind, you can ad lib ad infinitum—or at least
as long as your supply of liquid ingredients holds out.
However, just to get you started, here are some of
the better-known formulas, both plain and fancy:

GIN FIZZ

1 tablespoonful Sugar Syrup

Juice of 1 medium-sized Lemon
11/2jiggers Gin
Shake vigorously with crushed ice for several minutes
and strain into pre-chilled 8-ounce glass. Fizz up with
siphon of charged water, stirring continuously as water
is added. In this and practically all other Fizzes, lime
juice or a combination of lime and lemon juice may
be used in place of the lemon.

SILVER F I Z Z F r a p p é 1 egg white w i t h the other in­

gredients constituting the S o u r base. Otherwise the
same as the G i n Fizz.

GOLDEN FIZZ S a m e as Silver Fizz, except that 1 e g g

yolk is used instead of the egg white.
283
ROYAL FIZZ G i n Fizz using 1 w h o l e egg.

D I A M O N D FIZZ G i n Fizz using c h a m p a g n e instead of

c h a r g e d w a t e r . Stir vigorously w h i l e a d d i n g the
champagne.

H O F F M A N H O U S E F I Z Z G i n Fizz w i t h m a r a s c h i n o
used in place of s u g a r syrup a n d w i t h a tablespoonful
sweet c r e a m a n d a teaspoonful orange juice added.
T h i s is also sometimes called the G R A N D R O Y A L .

ALBEMARLE FIZZ A d d 1 teaspoonful raspberry syrup

to the finished G i n Fizz in the glass.

C R I M S O N FIZZ C r u s h a half dozen strawberries w i t h

the other ingredients. Otherwise same as G i n Fizz.

G R E E N FIZZ S a m e as S i l v e r Fizz w i t h the addition of

1 teaspoonful green crème de menthe.

V I O L E T FIZZ S a m e as G i n Fizz b u t w i t h crème de

violette substituted for the sugar syrup.

M E R R Y W I D O W FIZZ S a m e as G i n Fizz but w i t h juice

of 1/2 lemon a n d 1/2 orange.

P U R P L E FIZZ E q u a l parts sloe gin a n d grapefruit j u i c e

in place of gin a n d lemon juice. Otherwise same as
Silver Fizz.

A L A B A M A FIZZ P l a i n G i n Fizz decorated with 2 or 3

sprigs of mint. T h i s is also sometimes called the
S O U T H S I D E FIZZ.

N E W ORLEANS GIN FIZZ

1 tablespoonful S u g a r S y r u p
J u i c e of 1/2 medium-sized L e m o n
284
 J u i c e of 1/2 large L i m e
1 E g g White
1/2 ounce H e a v y C r e a m
3 ounces G i n
T h e secret of this Fizz is the long shaking w i t h c r a c k e d
or crushed ice. U s e long strokes a n d shake for at least
five minutes. Strain into 8-ounce glass a n d a d d about
1 1/2 ounces c h a r g e d w a t e r from the siphon. T h e drink
should be thick even after the charged w a t e r is added.

R A M O S GIN FIZZ S a m e as N e w Orleans Fizz, but with

the addition of 1/2 to 1 teaspoonful E a u de Fleurs
d ' O r a n g e r . T h i s genuine orange-flower w a t e r is m a n u -
factured by W a r r i c k Frères of Grasse, F r a n c e , a n d is
imported a n d distributed in the U n i t e d States by J .
M a n h e i m e r of N e w Y o r k C i t y .

O R A N G E A N D L I M E FIZZ A G i n Fizz using the juices

of 1/2 lime, 1/2 orange, a n d 1/4 lemon, a n d no sugar.

O R A N G E FIZZ A G i n Fizz using juice of 1/2 orange a n d

2 or 3 dashes orange bitters in place of the lemon
juice. N o sugar.

PINK L A D Y FIZZ A Silver Fizz with grenadine substi-

tuted for the sugar syrup.

T E X A S FIZZ A plain G i n Fizz w i t h 1 teaspoonful g r e n a -

dine a n d 2 teaspoonfuls orange j u i c e in place of the
sugar syrup.

MORNING GLORY FIZZ

2 teaspoonfuls S u g a r S y r u p
J u i c e of 1/2 L i m e
J u i c e of 1/2 L e m o n
1 E g g White
1 pony Absinthe
1 jigger Scotch
P r e p a r e a n d serve same as Silver Fizz.
285
 Supposed to be a g r a n d picker-upper for the m o r n ­
ing after. J o h n s o n says it "will give a good appetite
a n d quiet the nerves."

T h e following are all m a d e the same as the G i n Fizz

except for the substitution of ingredients as n o t e d :

APPLEJACK FIZZ A p p l e j a c k in place of gin.

A P P L E B L O W FIZZ • A P P L E B L O S S O M FIZZ A Silver

Fizz m a d e w i t h applejack.

BRANDY FIZZ B r a n d y in place of gin.

D E R B Y FIZZ A R o y a l Fizz m a d e with bourbon a n d a

few dashes of curaçao.

M A Y B L O S S O M FIZZ S w e d i s h P u n c h in place of gin

a n d grenadine in place of sugar syrup.

P I N E A P P L E FIZZ A White L a b e l R u m Fizz w i t h pine­

a p p l e juice substituted for the lemon j u i c e .

R U B Y FIZZ A Sloe G i n Fizz w i t h the addition of 1 e g g

white a n d a f e w dashes of raspberry syrup.

R U M FIZZ C u b a n r u m , either white or gold label, in

place of gin.

SEA FIZZ A Silver Fizz w i t h absinthe in place of the gin.

S L O E GIN FIZZ Sloe gin in place of dry gin.

S N O W B A L L A Silver Fizz w i t h whisky in place of the

gin a n d ginger ale in place of the charged water.
286
W H I S K Y FIZZ R y e or bourbon, as you prefer, in place
of gin.

A n d in m a k i n g our Fizzes let us not forget o u r tee­

totaler friends. W e c a n h a v e P R O H I B I T I O N F I Z Z E S ,
just as well as other prohibition drinks. G r a p e j u i c e ,
grenadine, orgeat, or a n y fruit syrup, frappéed w i t h
lime or lemon juice a n d fizzed u p w i t h c h a r g e d w a t e r ,
will m a k e a tasty a n d refreshing drink. I t w o n ' t h a v e
the snap a n d t a n g that a good alcoholic Fizz will h a v e ,
but r e m e m b e r that it is just that snap a n d t a n g that
y o u r " t o m a t o - j u i c e r " friend does not like or w a n t .
With a little understanding a n d conscientious care
you c a n m a k e him drinks that will delight a n d satisfy
him, a n d the chances a r e that that is more than he
c a n — o r w i l l — d o for y o u . B u t be comforted by the
thought that it is m o r e blessed to g i v e than to receive.

Daisies and Fixes

As previously noted, there is little, if any, difference
between these two classes of drinks. Most of the old
Fix recipes call for pineapple syrup, whereas the
Daisies usually use raspberry syrup or grenadine. This,
however, is relatively unimportant. Both drinks are
of the Sour type, employing citrus juices, fruit syrups
or liqueurs, and a spirituous liquor.
T h e F i x is regularly served w i t h straws in a glass or
a goblet filled w i t h shaved or crushed ice. T h e D a i s y
is sometimes strained into a D e l m o n i c o or a small
H i g h b a l l glass, but it is also p r o p e r — a n d , in m y
opinion, preferable—to serve it w i t h straws in a goblet,
a stein, or—best of a l l — a silver m u g full of fine ice,
exactly the same as a F i x . T h e drink should be
m u d d l e d w i t h a long spoon until the outside of the
glass or m u g becomes frosted.
B o t h drinks a r e also customarily decorated w i t h
w h a t e v e r fruit m a y be available a n d desired—orange,
lemon, cherries, pineapple, strawberries, raspberries,
small grapes, sprigs of mint, etc. F o r please b e a r in
287
 m i n d the fact that these are drinks of the M i d -
V i c t o r i a n E r a . P u t on y o u r hoop skirt a n d bustle or
w a x y o u r mustache, a n d sip them to the d r e a m y
rhythm of a V i e n n e s e waltz. A l l of the following are to
be stirred or shaken w i t h cracked ice, poured into a
goblet or m u g , a n d decorated as a b o v e i n d i c a t e d :

GIN DAISY
1 part Grenadine
2 parts L e m o n or L i m e J u i c e
8 parts G i n
M i x a n d p o u r into p r e p a r e d goblet as above indicated.
F l o a t 1 or 2 teaspoonfuls yellow C h a r t r e u s e on top.

3
APPLEJACK DAISY • BRANDY DAISY • R U M DAISY
• W H I S K Y DAISY E x c e p t for the base liquor used,
these are all m a d e a n d served exactly like the G i n
Daisy.

GIN F I X

1 p a r t Pineapple S y r u p
2 parts L i m e or L e m o n J u i c e
8 parts G i n

P r e p a r e a n d serve the s a m e as a G i n D a i s y . I f pine­

a p p l e syrup is not a v a i l a b l e substitute maraschino or
C o i n t r e a u . O r y o u c a n use 1 p a r t sugar syrup and
a d d 1 to 2 parts fresh pineapple j u i c e . A spoonful of
green C h a r t r e u s e m a y be floated o v e r the top of each
drink if desired.

APPLEJACK FIX • BRANDY FIX • R U M FIX • W H I S K Y

F I X E x c e p t for the base liquor used, these are m a d e
a n d served e x a c t l y like the G i n Fix.

T h e r e y o u are, m y children. N o w y o u tell m e the

difference between a D a i s y a n d a F i x . M a y b e it is
that one is pink a n d the other white.
3
The Applejack Daisy is also known as the STAR DAISY.
288
 And, once again, don't forget PROHIBITION DAISIES
and FIXES for your teetotaler friends. Use plain rasp­
berry syrup, pineapple syrup, or whatever fruit syrup
you may have. Add orange juice along with the lime
and lemon. This is sometimes called a DUMMY DAISY.
You can use grape juice instead of raspberry or pine­
apple. And, now that the color is purple, is it a Fix or
a Daisy? Perhaps we might call this the DAISY PRO­
HIBITION FIX. The color would seem appropriate.

Juleps
In the whole category of tall drinks there is probably
none that is more delicious and certainly none that
has caused more violent disagreement and acrimoni­
ous debate than the MINT JULEP. Should the mint
be bruised or not bruised? Should it be left in the glass
or removed? Should it be blended with the whisky or
should it be used merely as a decoration on the top
of the glass? Should the drink be served with straws
or not? Should it be decorated with fruit or not? If
you are interested in these and other similar details
about the Julep, I suggest that you write to the Na­
tional Distillers Products Corporation, New York City,
for their excellent little booklet on Mint Juleps. If it
is not out of print (it was copyrighted in 1939), I
am sure they will be glad to send you a copy.
I have, in all, probably some thirty or forty different
recipes for Juleps, some good, some bad, some in­
different. I shall give you just three—my own and two
others that I consider excellent. It takes two hours or
more advance notice to prepare one of the latter. The
other is for those who like only a very mild mint flavor.
First of all, however, there are certain cardinal princi­
ples to be observed, no matter what recipe you follow,
if you want to turn out a Julep that is really good and
that is attractively frosted.
1. Use very tall 14- or 16-ounce containers,
whether of glass or of silver. Silver mugs are best
because they frost better than glass, and mugs
289
w i t h handles—especially insulated handles—are
best of all because they keep the w a r m h a n d
from coming in contact w i t h the outer surface
of the container, thus melting the frost. If glasses
are used, the thinner the glass, the better. I t is
well to serve p a p e r napkins w i t h w h i c h to h a n d l e
the glasses, thereby insulating them to some ex­
tent from the w a r m h a n d . A l s o serve saucers or
large coasters in w h i c h to set the glasses or mugs,
for some of the frost will a l w a y s melt a n d drip.
2 . Unless the drink itself is to be chilled in the
refrigerator, thoroughly pre-chill the glasses by
leaving them in the refrigerator as close as pos­
sible to the freezing c o m p a r t m e n t for at least a
half-hour. W h e n filling the glasses, w e a r woolen
gloves or w r a p the glass in a clean dry towel to
k e e p the w a r m h a n d from c o m i n g in contact
w i t h the glass.
3. U s e only fresh m i n t a n d (except as a
garnish) only the small, tender leaves at the e n d
of each sprig. D i s c a r d all stems a n d all the old
a n d large leaves.
4. U s e only the best-quality bonded bourbon
—the older, the better. I f you w a n t to m a k e a
R Y E J U L E P , or a R U M J U L E P , or a GIN J U L E P ,
or a B R A N D Y J U L E P , or an A P P L E J A C K J U L E P ,
well a n d good, but you will be on y o u r o w n . I
a m not a K e n t u c k y colonel—in fact, I h a v e been
in K e n t u c k y only once—but I a m firmly con­
vinced that all other J u l e p s are only inferior
imitations of those m a d e w i t h good K e n t u c k y
bourbon.
5. U s e sugar syrup, not dry sugar. I t not only
saves time but it blends w i t h the liquor as dry
sugar and water never can.
6. F o r the garnish use nothing but tender,
y o u n g sprigs of mint. R i n s e them well in cold
water, dry with a clean towel, a n d , while still
slightly moist, dip in p o w d e r e d sugar. C l i p off
the end of e a c h stem just before immersing in
the drink, thus a l l o w i n g the j u i c e to bleed into
the liquor.
290
 7 U s e shaved or finely crushed ice—not m e r e l y
cracked ice. If you h a v e a m e c h a n i c a l crusher
— s u c h as the Dazey—set it for the finest crush.
If you use a c a n v a s b a g a n d mallet, p o u n d until
the ice is like snow. D i s c a r d all lumps.
W i t h these w a r n i n g s a n d a d v a n c e preparations, p r o ­
ceed with the actual preparation of y o u r J u l e p s as
below indicated. N o . 1 is m y own f a v o r i t e ; N o . 2 is
the time consumer; N o . 3 is the one w i t h just a faint
mint flavor.

J U L E P N O . 1 I n a b a r glass place, for e a c h drink, 1

tablespoonful sugar syrup, about a dozen tender y o u n g
mint leaves, a n d 2 or 3 good dashes of A n g o s t u r a . I f
you don't like bitters, l e a v e them out, but, in m y
opinion, they a d d enormously to the c h a r a c t e r of the
drink. Bruise the mint gently w i t h a m u d d l e r a n d
blend the three ingredients by stirring a n d pressing
gently for several minutes. D o not crush the leaves,
for this releases the bitter, inner juices. P o u r a b o u t 2
ounces of bourbon for e a c h drink into the b a r glass
a n d stir all thoroughly together.
R e m o v e the Julep glasses from the refrigerator, p a c k
them w i t h the crushed ice (don't let the b a r e h a n d s
touch the glasses) a n d strain the contents of the b a r
glass into them. W i t h a long b a r spoon c h u r n the
contents of the glasses u p a n d d o w n for a f e w minutes.
A d d m o r e ice a n d fill e a c h glass to within about 3/8"
to 1/4" of the top w i t h bourbon a n d repeat the c h u r n ­
ing process until the glasses start to frost.
Insert long straws in the glasses, decorate w i t h the
sugared mint sprigs, a n d serve.
T h e glasses m a y b e returned to the refrigerator
after the drinks are m i x e d if so desired, but this is not
necessary. If they are returned, insert the straws but
d o not a d d the garnish until the m o m e n t of serving.
T h e dry cold of the refrigerator will wilt the mint
sprigs if they h a v e been added. A l s o it m a y freeze the
ice into a solid mass, m a k i n g it difficult or impossible
to insert the straws later.

291
JULEP NO. 2 Prepare the mint, sugar, Angostura mix­
ture as in No. 1, but do not add the bourbon. Pour
half of this mixture into the bottom of the Julep
glass. Half fill the glass with crushed ice, firmly packed
down. Add the balance of the mint mixture and fill
the glass to the top with the ice. Insert straws and
place the glass in the refrigerator as close as possible
to the freezing compartment. Leave it there for at
least an hour.
Remove glass from refrigerator (insulated hands
again) and gently pour into it all the bourbon it will
hold up to about 1/4" from the top. Return to the
refrigerator for at least another hour, then remove,
add garnish, and serve.

JULEP NO. 3 Pre-chill the glasses. In the bottom of

each glass place a tablespoonful of sugar syrup and,
if desired, stir into it a few dashes of Angostura.
Distribute three or four small sprigs (not just the
leaves) of mint over the bottom of the glass but do not
bruise or crush. Pack the glass full with crushed ice
and fill with bourbon to within about an inch of the
top. Churn with a long spoon to settle the ice and start
the frosting process. Refill with ice, add enough
bourbon to bring to desired height, and insert straws.
Place drinks in refrigerator for at least 5 or 1 0
minutes (a half-hour is better), add garnish, and serve.

One of the greatly disputed points about Juleps is

whether or not to float a spoonful of rum on top of
each drink. To your true Kentucky colonel, this is
rank heresy. It does, however, add an exotic touch
which many like. I like Juleps either with or without
the rum, but, if you do use rum, use only a good
Jamaica rum at least 8 years old and use not more
than 1 teaspoonful.
I will also make one single concession to my rule of
"nothing but bonded bourbon" for a Julep. Southern
Comfort, which, of course, has a bourbon base, makes
292
 an excellent Julep. The ladies, in particular, will like
it better than one made with straight bourbon.
If any of your teetotaler friends attend your Julep
party I fear you will have to serve them plain ice
water. I know of no prohibition variety of the Julep.

Cobblers
Like the Fixes and the Daisies, the Cobblers are
served with straws in a goblet filled with finely crushed
or shaved ice and are decorated with fruit and a sprig
or two of mint. They differ from Fixes and Daisies
(which are basically Sours) primarily in that the
Cobblers contain either no citrus juice at all or, at the
most, only one or two dashes. They consist of either a
wine or a spirituous liquor combined with either sugar
syrup or some sweet liqueur. While seldom served
today, Harry Johnson, circa 1880, said of the Sherry
Cobbler: "This drink is without doubt the most popu­
lar beverage in this country, with ladies as well as with
gentlemen. It is a very refreshing drink for old and
young."
In making any of the Cobblers, the goblet is first
filled with fine ice. If goblets are not available an 8- to
10-ounce Highball glass can be substituted. The in­
gredients of the drink are not separately shaken but
are poured over the ice in the glass, the sugar or
liqueur first and the wine or spirituous liquor last. The
contents of the glass are then churned with a bar
spoon until frost appears on the outside of the glass.
Straws are then inserted and the drink is decorated
with fruit and mint and served.

APPLEJACK COBBLER • BRANDY COBBLER • GIN

COBBLER • RUM COBBLER • WHISKY COBBLER
Prepare glass with ice as above directed. Add 2 tea-
spoonfuls sugar syrup. Fill glass to within of top
with the desired liquor and stir. When glass begins to
frost, decorate and serve. A teaspoonful of pineapple
syrup or a few dashes of curaçao are frequently used
293
 w i t h the sugar syrup. Also a fruit liqueur, such as
maraschino, C o i n t r e a u , apricot, or p e a c h , m a y be
substituted for the sugar syrup. W i t h rum, orgeat or
f a l e r n u m will m a k e a pleasing substitute for the sugar.

CLARET COBBLER • M A D E I R A COBBLER • P O R T

COBBLER • RHINE W I N E COBBLER • S A U T E R N E
COBBLER • S H E R R Y COBBLER • T O K A Y COBBLER
S a m e as the Cobblers m a d e w i t h spirituous liquors,
but w i t h the port, sauterne, or other sweet wines, omit
the sugar syrup a n d use a few dashes of curaçao. W i t h
the R h i n e w i n e , a d d a f e w dashes of lemon j u i c e .
W i t h the sherry, a d d a twist of lemon peel.

CHAMPAGNE COBBLER M a d e like the other Cobblers

but w i t h c h a m p a g n e . U s e sugar syrup a n d a twist
e a c h of lemon a n d orange peel.

COFFEE COBBLER M a d e like the other Cobblers but

w i t h 1 p a r t p o r t w i n e to 2 parts cognac. A d d a twist
of lemon peel.

E N G L I S H C O B B L E R M a d e w i t h 2 parts h e a v y r u m
(preferably L o n d o n D o c k ) to 1 p a r t strong black tea
a n d 1 teaspoonful lemon j u i c e .

V A N I L L A C O B B L E R M a d e w i t h 1 p a r t crème de vanille
to 2 parts cognac, plus 1 tablespoonful h e a v y c r e a m .
Instead of fruit decorations, sprinkle g r a t e d nutmeg
over the top.

Coolers
A C o o l e r is essentially a Horse's N e c k w i t h a K i c k
(see p a g e 2 7 3 ) , although there are also Prohibition
Coolers m a d e w i t h non-alcoholic ingredients. S o far

294
 as I h a v e been able to ascertain, the original C o o l e r
w a s the R e m s e n C o o l e r and, while most m o d e r n recipe
books indicate gin for the R e m s e n Cooler, this is in­
correct. T h i s C o o l e r derived its n a m e from the fact
that it w a s m a d e with R e m s e n Scotch whisky, a b r a n d
no longer seen, at least in this country.
T h e C o o l e r is served in a Collins glass decorated
w i t h the skin of a w h o l e lemon or orange cut in a
continuous spiral a n d h u n g over the edge of the glass
exactly as in the Horse's N e c k . Sometimes both a
lemon peel a n d an orange peel are used for decoration.
W h e r e a s the Horse's N e c k is m a d e with ginger ale,
the original R e m s e n C o o l e r w a s m a d e w i t h club soda.
T o d a y some Coolers are m a d e w i t h charged w a t e r
and some w i t h ginger ale. T h e r e are also Coolers
m a d e w i t h other carbonated beverages, at least one
or two m a d e w i t h cider, a n d some m o d e r n recipes
even stoop to prescribing plain w a t e r . T h e C o o l e r
should be very dry, but sugar c a n be used if desired
and perhaps the best a d v i c e here is "sweeten a c c o r d ­
ing to taste." If y o u w a n t the drink to be thirst-
quenching, refreshing, a n d satisfying, h o w e v e r , y o u
must keep it definitely on the dry side. T h e base of the
C o o l e r m a y be a spirituous liquor, a w i n e , a liqueur,
or even a fruit syrup. W i t h sweet wines or liqueurs it
is usually advisable to use a few dashes of lime or
lemon juice, but this is optional. I t is also optional
whether or not to use bitters a n d h o w m u c h .
W i t h the above principles well in m i n d y o u should
be able to "roll y o u r o w n " Coolers w i t h w h a t e v e r
ingredients m a y be at h a n d a n d of a n y type a n d
strength to suit a n y taste from that of a n A n d y
V o l s t e a d to that of the O l d Soak. H o w e v e r , the fol­
lowing are offered as specimens:

R E M S E N COOLER ( T h e original C o o l e r ) D e c o r a t e a
T o m Collins glass w i t h a lemon peel as a b o v e directed
and place 3 or 4 large ice cubes in the glass. A d d 2
to 3 ounces Scotch whisky a n d fill the glass w i t h
charged w a t e r . Stir quickly w i t h b a r spoon a n d serve.

295
A P P L E J A C K COOLER • B R A N D Y COOLER • GIN
COOLER • R U M COOLER • W H I S K Y COOLER E x ­
cept for the liquor used, these are m a d e exactly like
the R e m s e n C o o l e r . G i n g e r ale m a y be substituted for
the charged w a t e r if desired.
T h e R u m C o o l e r , w h e n m a d e w i t h J a m a i c a rum,
is sometimes called a B L A C K S T O N E C O O L E R .

S T O N E FENCE • S T O N E W A L L J A C K S O N A n A p p l e ­
j a c k C o o l e r w i t h h a r d cider in place of the carbonated
beverage.

B O S T O N COOLER A Rum C o o l e r w i t h the addition of

1 teaspoonful sugar syrup a n d the juice of half a
lemon.

M O O N L I G H T COOLER • H A R V A R D COOLER Made

like a Boston C o o l e r but with a p p l e j a c k instead of
rum.

L O N G T O M COOLER M a d e like a Boston C o o l e r but

w i t h O l d T o m gin instead of r u m .

W I N E COOLERS U s e a n y w i n e desired a n d m a k e the

s a m e as other Coolers except that w i t h the light, un­
fortified wines a larger quantity should be used than
in the case of spirituous liquors. W i t h v e r y sweet wines,
such as sauterne a n d port, a d d 1 teaspoonful lemon
j u i c e . W i t h v e r y dry wines, such as R h i n e wines, a
teaspoonful of sugar syrup or of a liqueur such as
m a r a s c h i n o or curaçao m a y be added.
A C l a r e t C o o l e r plus a f e w dashes of r u m is some­
times called a M A N H A T T A N C O O L E R .

C O U N T R Y CLUB COOLER • V E R M O U T H COOLER Use

1 ounce grenadine, 3 ounces F r e n c h v e r m o u t h , a n d
c h a r g e d water. I t a l i a n v e r m o u t h m a y also be used, in
w h i c h case omit the g r e n a d i n e a n d a d d 1 teaspoonful
lemon j u i c e .
296
D U B O N N E T COOLER • B Y R R H COOLER M a d e like
the I t a l i a n V e r m o u t h C o o l e r except for the base w i n e .

A n d n o w here are a f e w P R O H I B I T I O N C O O L E R S for

y o u r teetotaler friends:

M I N T COOLER C r u s h one or two sprigs of m i n t with

1 or 2 teaspoonfuls sugar in the bottom of the glass,
a d d the ice, decorate w i t h the lemon peel, a n d fill
glass w i t h g i n g e r ale.

RAIL S P L I T T E R O n e ounce sugar syrup, juice of 1

medium-sized lemon. Fill u p with g i n g e r ale.

S A R A T O G A COOLER G i n g e r ale a n d sarsaparilla, half

a n d half.
T h e R a i l Splitter plus a f e w dashes of A n g o s t u r a is
also sometimes called a S a r a t o g a .

LONE T R E E COOLER J u i c e of 1 lemon a n d 1/2 o r a n g e

w i t h 1 ounce grenadine. Fill u p with c h a r g e d w a t e r .

Sangarees
A S a n g a r e e is a chilled a n d sweetened beer, w i n e , or
liquor, served in a H i g h b a l l glass, a n d dusted o v e r the
top w i t h grated nutmeg. M a n y present-day recipe
books overlook the S a n g a r e e s m a d e of beer, ale, a n d
porter a n d , on the other h a n d , in recent years the
category has been b r o a d e n e d to take in drinks m a d e
with spirituous liquors diluted w i t h w a t e r . T h e s e , of
course, are substantially the same as cold T o d d i e s a n d
Slings.
ALE S A N G A R E E • B E E R S A N G A R E E • P O R T E R S A N ­
G A R E E P l a c e 2 teaspoonfuls of s u g a r syrup in a n 8-
ounce H i g h b a l l glass; fill glass w i t h the ale, beer, or
porter; stir gently w i t h a b a r sooon; dust top w i t h
grated n u t m e g a n d serve.

297
B U R G U N D Y SANGAREE • CLARET SANGAREE • S A U -
T E R N E S A N G A R E E M a d e the same as the B e e r
Sangarees except that one or two lumps of ice a r e
p l a c e d in the glass to chill the w i n e . I t is discretionary
w h e t h e r to leave the ice in the glass or to r e m o v e it
before serving the drink.

MADEIRA SANGAREE • PORT SANGAREE • SHERRY

S A N G A R E E M a d e the same as the other w i n e S a n ­
garees except that only about 3 ounces of the fortified
w i n e is used a n d the glass is then filled u p w i t h ice
water.

APPLEJACK SANGAREE • BRANDY SANGAREE • GIN

SANGAREE • R U M SANGAREE • W H I S K Y SAN­
G A R E E M a d e exactly the same as those w i t h a base
of sherry or other fortified w i n e .

Hot Sangarees
T h e Sangarees are also sometimes served hot. I n the
case of the A l e , Beer, a n d Porter S a n g a r e e s , this is
accomplished by heating a poker or other iron rod to
w h i t e h e a t a n d then immersing it in the drink. T h e
n u t m e g is not a d d e d until the drink has been heated.
T h e S a n g a r e e s m a d e of spirituous liquors a n d fortified
wines are heated by using hot instead of cold w a t e r .
T h e Sangarees m a d e of light wines a r e not served hot,
although they could be so served b y heating the w i n e
itself either separately or by the hot-poker method.

Slings and Toddies

T h e dictionaries define both Slings a n d T o d d i e s as
"mixtures of sweetened spirits a n d w a t e r . " W h i l e
Slings h a v e a l w a y s been served both hot a n d cold, the
T o d d y w a s originally a hot drink only. T o d a y , how­
ever, T o d d i e s , as well as Slings, a r e served both hot
a n d cold. Slings are usually m a d e w i t h lemon a n d
either sugar or some sweet liqueur. T o d d i e s usually
298
 contain a thin slice of lemon or a piece of lemon peel
but no lemon j u i c e . Also, they usually contain one or
more spices, such as cinnamon, cloves, or nutmeg.
T h e s e differences, h o w e v e r , are merely incidental and,
w h e n served hot, it is difficult, if not impossible, to dis­
tinguish between a S l i n g a n d a T o d d y . O n e distinction
between the cold drinks is that T o d d i e s are usually
m a d e with p l a i n w a t e r , Slings w i t h charged w a t e r or
ginger ale.

APPLEJACK SLING • B R A N D Y SLING • GIN SLING

IRISH S L I N G • R U M S L I N G • SCOTCH SLING
W H I S K Y SLING
1 teaspoonful S u g a r S y r u p
2 teaspoonfuls L e m o n J u i c e
3 ounces of the selected L i q u o r
C o m b i n e the a b o v e in a goblet or large H i g h b a l l glass.
Fill the glass with chilled, c h a r g e d w a t e r for a cold
Sling or w i t h boiling w a t e r for a hot Sling. S o m e
recipes omit the lemon j u i c e . Others omit both the
lemon j u i c e a n d sugar a n d use a f e w dashes of A n ­
gostura. S o m e recipes also call for dusting the top w i t h
nutmeg. Q u e r y , is it then a Sling or a S a n g a r e e ?

P A P A Y A S L I N G A G i n Sling using 1 tablespoonful

p a p a y a syrup in place of sugar syrup.

S I N G A P O R E G I N S L I N G O f all the recipes published

for this drink, I h a v e n e v e r seen any two that w e r e
alike. Essentially it is simply a G i n S l i n g with the
addition of cherry brandy. T h e following is typical of
the various recipes:
1 teaspoonful S u g a r S y r u p
J u i c e of 1/4 large L e m o n or 1/4 large L i m e
1 pony C h e r r y B r a n d y ( K i r s c h )
11/2 jiggers G i n
1 dash A n g o s t u r a
S h a k e a n d strain into 8-ounce H i g h b a l l glass or use
10-ounce glass a n d l e a v e 1 large ice cube in the glass.

299
 Fill glass w i t h charged water. S o m e recipes call for the
addition of a pony of Benedictine. Also, some call for
ginger ale in place of the charged w a t e r . A slice of
lemon peel should be twisted o v e r a n d d r o p p e d into
the drink.

APPLEJACK TODDY • BRANDY TODDY • GIN

T O D D Y • I R I S H T O D D Y • R U M T O D D Y • SCOTCH
TODDY • WHISKY TODDY

1 ounce S u g a r S y r u p
3 ounces of the selected L i q u o r
2 or 3 C l o v e s
1 dash g r o u n d C i n n a m o n or small piece C i n n a m o n
Bark
1 dash ground Nutmeg
1 thin slice L e m o n

C o m b i n e all ingredients except the nutmeg in a goblet

or tall H i g h b a l l glass. F i l l the glass w i t h either hot
or cold w a t e r a n d dust the nutmeg o v e r the top.

Lemonades, Limeades, and Orangeades

L e m o n a d e s , either plain or spiked, are delicious, re­
freshing s u m m e r drinks. W h e n spiked w i t h a spiritu­
ous liquor, of course, the L e m o n a d e becomes a C o l ­
lins. Delightful variations in flavor, h o w e v e r , m a y be
obtained by a d d i n g 1 or 2 ounces of practically any
liqueur to the L e m o n a d e or by a d d i n g a w i n e , either
m i x e d w i t h the other ingredients or floated on top of
the drink. L i m e a d e s a n d O r a n g e a d e s are equally
tasty, a n d a n y two or all three of these citrus fruits
m a y be used in combination.

LEMONADE (Plain)

1 tablespoonful S u g a r S y r u p
J u i c e of 1 large L e m o n

C o m b i n e a n d p o u r into Collins glass full of cracked

ice. Fill glass with either plain or c h a r g e d water, stir

300
 thoroughly, decorate w i t h fruits, a n d serve. A sprig of
mint m a y be a d d e d if desired.

LIMEADE U s e 2 large limes in place of lemon.

ORANGEADE U s e 1 large or 1 to 2 small oranges in

place of lemon. A combination of either lemon or lime
with the orange greatly improves this drink.

LIME-LEMONADE • LIME-ORANGEADE • LEMON-

O R A N G E A D E M a d e like a plain L e m o n a d e but w i t h
m i x e d fruit juices as follows:

(a) 1/2 large L e m o n , 1 large L i m e

(b) 1 large Orange, 1 L i m e
(c) 1 l a r g e O r a n g e , 1/2 L e m o n

WINE LEMONADES W i t h light-colored wines—sau-

terne, R h i n e w i n e , sherry, etc.—the w i n e should be
stirred in w i t h the other ingredients in the proportion
of about 1 p a r t of w i n e to 2 or 3 of the w a t e r or per-
haps a bit less in the case of a fortified w i n e such as
sherry.
W i t h deep-colored wines—claret, red burgundy,
port, etc.—the same proportions should be observed
and the w i n e m a y b e either stirred into the drink or
floated on top.

LIQUEUR LEMONADES O m i t the s u g a r syrup a n d a d d

1 pony of practically a n y liqueur. T h e citrus- a n d
fruit-flavored liqueurs—Cointreau, Curasao, m a r a -
schino, apricot, cherry, etc.—are better for this pur-
pose than a strongly a r o m a t i c liqueur such as C h a r -
treuse.

PINK L E M O N A D E U s e raspberry syrup or grenadine

in place of sugar.

GREEN L E M O N A D E U s e green crème de menthe in

place of sugar.

301
ORGEAT LEMONADE U s e orgeat in p l a c e of sugar.

EGG L E M O N A D E P l a i n L e m o n a d e w i t h the addition

of 1 w h o l e egg. S h a k e the lemon, sugar, a n d egg
thoroughly in a cocktail shaker; p o u r into glass with­
out straining; a d d the w a t e r , stir, a n d serve.

PICON L E M O N A D E P l a i n L e m o n a d e w i t h the a d d i ­
tion of 1 j i g g e r A m e r Picon.

T h e v a r i o u s combinations a b o v e suggested c a n be em­

ployed w i t h limes or oranges as well as w i t h lemons.
If k u m q u a t s a r e a v a i l a b l e , try using the juice of 3
or 4 k u m q u a t s w i t h that of 1 lime. T h i s is a K U M -
QUAT LIMEADE.
F o r p a r t y use I suggest serving plain L e m o n a d e s
a n d h a v i n g on a serving table bottles of claret, grena­
dine, orgeat, port, a n d a f e w liqueurs. L e t e a c h guest
spike his drink to suit his i n d i v i d u a l fancy.

Individual Punches
T h e r e are t w o types of Punches a c c o r d i n g to the m a n ­
n e r in w h i c h they are to be s e r v e d : i n d i v i d u a l Punches
w h i c h , like H i g h b a l l s , J u l e p s , etc., a r e m a d e in the
glasses i n w h i c h they a r e to be served, a n d party
Punches w h i c h are m a d e in a P u n c h bowl a n d ladled
from the b o w l into the cups in w h i c h they a r e served.
T h e p a r t y Punches will be considered i n a later
chapter.
Of the i n d i v i d u a l P u n c h e s there are t w o types:
the S o u r - t y p e , w h i c h , like the Collins, the J u l e p , the
Daisy, etc., is a thirst-quenching drink especially
suited to a hot s u m m e r afternoon, a n d the M i l k
P u n c h , w h i c h is really a combination of food a n d
drink. L e t us consider the M i l k P u n c h first, a n d this
time w e will start w i t h o u r teetotaler friend and, after
serving him, w e will spike the r e m a i n i n g drinks to
suit the several i n d i v i d u a l tastes. Since there is no li­
q u o r in the prohibidon drink, w e shall try to compen­
sate i n p a r t for its absence by the use of a n egg.
302
MILK SHAKE • MILK PUNCH (Plain)

1 whole E g g
1/2 pint (1 c u p ) S w e e t M i l k
S u g a r to taste (1 to 3 teaspoonfuls S y r u p )

S h a k e w i t h cracked ice until thoroughly blended a n d

chilled, then strain into Collins glass. D u s t w i t h
ground N u t m e g if desired.

4
APPLEJACK M I L K P U N C H • B R A N D Y M I L K P U N C H
5
GIN M I L K P U N C H • I R I S H M I L K P U N C H • R U M
4
M I L K P U N C H • SCOTCH M I L K P U N C H • W H I S K Y
5
MILK PUNCH

2 to 3 ounces of the selected L i q u o r

1/2 pint ( 1 c u p ) S w e e t M i l k
S u g a r to taste.

Prepare same as p l a i n M i l k Punch. D e c o r a t e w i t h a

dash of grated n u t m e g or a sliver of lemon or orange
peel.

HOT M I L K P U N C H E S A n y of the a b o v e Punches c a n

also be served hot. C o m b i n e the sugar a n d liquor in
a H i g h b a l l glass or goblet a n d fill glass w i t h boiling
hot milk.

TIGER'S M I L K

1 teaspoonful S u g a r S y r u p
2 ounces B r a n d y or A p p l e j a c k
1 E g g W h i t e to e a c h 2 drinks
1 drop e a c h of V a n i l l a , O r a n g e , C l o v e , & C i n n a m o n
E x t r a c t s to e a c h 4 drinks

Beat the e g g w h i t e w i t h the s u g a r a n d extracts, then

shake w i t h ice a n d b r a n d y . Strain into Collins glass
4
A Milk Punch made with 2 parts rum and 3 parts brandy is
known as B U L L ' S M I L K .
T h e Whisky Milk Punch is also known as W H I T E P L U S H .
5

So also is the Gin Milk Punch. With the White Plush made
of gin, maraschino is usually used in place of the sugar syrup.

303
 a n d fill u p glass w i t h sweet cider a n d milk, half and
half. D u s t w i t h nutmeg.

P U F F S The Puff is a combination Milk and Soda

Punch. Mix equal parts of the desired liquor and milk
in the shaker, strain into a Sour glass until the glass
2
is from1/2to /3 full, and top off with charged w a t e r -
preferably from a siphon. Stir quickly and serve.
According to the liquor used, the drink is called a
BRANDY PUFF, GIN P U F F , RUM PUFF, WHISKY
P U F F , etc.

PLANTERS' PUNCH Of all the S o u r - t y p e Punches, the

Planters' P u n c h , m a d e w i t h J a m a i c a r u m , is probably
the most p o p u l a r . I t is a n excellent drink a n d its
popularity is well deserved. T h e M y e r s C o m p a n y ,
makers of Planters' P u n c h R u m , gives 2 formulas for
this drink. T h e first they designate as the O l d Planta­
tion formula, w h i c h is 1 sour (lemon or l i m e ) , 2 sweet
( s u g a r ) , 3 strong ( r u m ) , a n d 4 w e a k (ice a n d w a t e r
c o m b i n e d ) . The second, w h i c h they call the A m e r i c a n
formula, is 1 sweet, 2 sour, 3 w e a k , 4 strong. I per­
sonally r e c o m m e n d 1 sweet, 2 sour, 3 strong, 4 w e a k .

1 part Sugar Syrup

2 parts L e m o n J u i c e
3 parts J a m a i c a R u m
2 or 3 dashes A n g o s t u r a to each drink

S h a k e vigorously with crushed ice a n d pour, without

straining, into Collins glasses. P a c k glasses to top with
crushed ice, fill to within 1/2" to 3/8" of top with
charged w a t e r a n d c h u r n w i t h a b a r spoon until
glasses start to frost. D e c o r a t e w i t h fruit as desired
a n d serve w i t h straws.

BRANDY PUNCH • ROMAN PUNCH

1 part Raspberry Syrup

2 parts L e m o n J u i c e
3 parts C o g n a c

304
 1 part J a m a i c a R u m

2 or 3 dashes Curaçao to each drink

P r e p a r e a n d serve like Planters' Punch. Benedictine
m a y be used in place of the raspberry syrup, in w h i c h
case omit the curaçao.

MISSISSIPPI PUNCH

1 part Sugar Syrup

2 parts Lemon Juice
3 parts Bourbon
1 part Cognac

P r e p a r e a n d serve like Planters' P u n c h . F l o a t 1 table-

spoonful J a m a i c a r u m on top of each drink.
If p i n e a p p l e j u i c e is substituted for the cognac a n d
the r u m float is omitted, this drink becomes a F L O R -
IDA P U N C H .

AMERICAN BEAUTY PUNCH

1 p a r t W h i t e C r è m e de M e n t h e
3 parts O r a n g e J u i c e
2 parts C o g n a c
2 parts F r e n c h V e r m o u t h

P r e p a r e a n d serve like Planters' Punch. F l o a t 1 tea-

spoonful claret on top of each drink.

WHISKY PUNCH

1 part Curaçao
2 parts L e m o n J u i c e
3 parts Whisky

Prepare a n d serve like Planters' Punch.

GIN M I N T PUNCH

1 part S u g a r Syrup
2 parts L e m o n J u i c e
3 parts G i n
1 or 2 sprigs M i n t to each drink

305
 M u d d l e the mint with the sugar a n d lemon juice and
prepare like Planters' Punch. G i n g e r ale m a y be used
in place of c h a r g e d water.

PICON P U N C H

1 part Grenadine
2 parts L e m o n J u i c e
3 parts A m e r Picon

P r e p a r e a n d serve like Planters' Punch.

Y A C H T CLUB PUNCH

1 part Grenadine
2 parts L e m o n J u i c e
3 parts R u m
2 or з dashes Absinthe to each drink

P r e p a r e a n d serve like Planters' Punch.

NEW ORLEANS PUNCH

1 part Raspberry Syrup

2 parts Lemon Juice
1 part Jamaica Rum
2 parts Bourbon

P r e p a r e like Planters' P u n c h except that strong, cold,

black tea is used in place of charged water.

CREOLE PUNCH

1 part Sugar Syrup

2 parts Lemon Juice
1 part Brandy
2 parts Port

P r e p a r e like Planters' P u n c h except that o r a n g e juice

a n d w a t e r in the ratio of 3 to 1 are used in place of
charged water.
306
P I M M ' S CUPS T h e s e are bottled C u p s from E n g l a n d .
M y C a n a d i a n friends are extremely fond of them,
especially P i m m ' s N o . 2 . T h e r e are three of them, N o .
1 m a d e w i t h gin, N o . 2 w i t h Scotch, a n d N o . 3 w i t h
cognac.
T o serve, place a thin piece of lemon a n d a small
piece of c u c u m b e r rind in a tall glass filled w i t h ice.
A d d 2 ounces of P i m m ' s of the desired type a n d fill
u p w i t h lemon soda or T o m Collins M i x .

W i t h these illustrative Punches as examples for y o u r

general g u i d a n c e you should be able to "roll y o u r
own" Punches as readily as a n y other drink. T h e all-
important item to r e m e m b e r is that the drink must
be thoroughly frosted. I t is a frappéed drink to be
served with straws a n d not merely a cold drink to be
served, like a H i g h b a l l or a Collins, w i t h a f e w cubes
of ice in the glass. C o m p a r e , for e x a m p l e , the Planters'
Punch, p a g e 3 0 4 , a n d the Southside S p e c i a l , p a g e
309.
Miscellaneous
T h e r e are a n u m b e r of tall drinks that are interesting
—some rather good a n d some not so good—that do
not properly fall within a n y of the foregoing cate­
gories. T h e y will be discussed u n d e r this heading of
"Miscellaneous." Note, h o w e v e r , that this book does
not consider either m a l t beverages or wines, except
in so f a r as they are used as ingredients in m i x e d
drinks.

'ARF A N D ' A R F • H A L F A N D HALF O r i g i n a l l y half

ale a n d half porter. A l s o half old or still ale a n d half
new or sparkling ale. A l s o half beer a n d half ale. S e r v e
in a beer or H i g h b a l l glass or mug.

SHANDY GAFF H a l f ale a n d half ginger ale. Serve

same as ' A r f a n d 'Arf. P o u r the ale first, then the
ginger ale, or p o u r both together. Stir quickly w i t h b a r
spoon a n d serve.

307
 6
BLACK V E L V E T Half Guinness's stout and half cham­
pagne. Pour the stout first, then the champagne, or
both simultaneously.
If porter is used in place of stout, the drink is known
simply as V E L V E T . If beer is used, it is known as the
HALSTEAD STREET VELVET.

I was first introduced to Black Velvet at the home of

a very dear friend of mine in Montreal and I received
one of the greatest of all the drinking surprises of
my whole life. The combination of champagne and
stout sounds terrifying—something like molasses and
horse-radish. Actually, it is excellent. The champagne
cuts the heavy, syrupy consistency of the stout, and the
stout takes the sharp, tart edge off the champagne.
Each is the perfect complement of the other. Be sure,
however, that you use (a) a good bottling of the stout,
(b) an extra-dry champagne—preferably a brut or
nature.

T U R K I S H BLOOD Champagne and red burgundy, half

and half.
In this mixture each ingredient fights the other with
disastrous results. I definitely do not recommend it.
If you must have a sparkling burgundy (an American
drink that is anathema to any true Burgundian), buy
a sparkling burgundy. Don't combine a still burgundy
with a sparkling champagne and thus ruin both.

M I M O S A Orange juice and champagne, half and half.

Just another freak champagne mixture. It is not
half bad and the ladies usually like it. Use a good-
quality domestic champagne, medium-dry.

DOG'S NOSE One part gin to 2 parts porter. Serve

in Highball glasses. This drink is sometimes chilled in
the glass with cracked ice.
A slight modification of the 'Arf and 'Arf theme.
It is included as a curiosity and is not recommended.
6
Also sometimes called the BISMARK.

308
WARD EIGHT The Ward Eight is probably more fre­
quently served as a tall drink than as a cocktail. See
page 138.

NORTHSIDE SPECIAL
2 teaspoonfuls Sugar Syrup
Juice of 1 Orange
2 ounces Jamaica Rum
Shake with crushed ice, pour into Collins glass, ice
and all, fill glass with charged water, and serve with
straws.

SOUTHSIDE SPECIAL Same as Northside Special ex­

cept that the Southside is made with the juice of 1
lemon instead of an orange.
This is really a Jamaica Rum Collins. It is not a
Planters' Punch. See page 304.

Squirts
A Squirt is a very sweet drink made of a spirituous
liquor or wine in combination with fresh fruit or fruit
syrups and charged water. A fruit liqueur, such as
maraschino, apricot, etc., may be used in place of a
plain fruit syrup. The Whisky Squirt is a typical
example.

WHISKY SQUIRT Crush1/2small peach in a bar glass.

Add 1 tablespoonful sugar syrup, 1 teaspoonful
curaçao, and 1 jigger bourbon. Shake with crushed
ice, pour into tall Highball glass, and fill glass with
charged water.
Orgeat and crushed pineapple are recommended
for use with the RUM SQUIRT. Raspberry syrup or
grenadine and strawberries are recommended for use
with the GIN SQUIRT.
In making WINE SQUIRTS, use 2 jiggers wine and
any appropriate fruit and fruit syrup or liqueur.
309
LALLA ROOKH O n e ounce e a c h of cognac, gold label
l
rum, a n d crème de v a n i l l e w i t h / teaspoonful sugar
2

syrup a n d 1 tablespoonful w h i p p e d c r e a m to e a c h
drink. S h a k e w i t h crushed ice, strain i n t o 8-ounce
H i g h b a l l glass, a n d fizz u p w i t h siphon.

T h i s relic of the G a y Nineties is a syrupy-sweet a n d

wholly deceptive concoction. I t w a s one of m y fa-
vorites during college days before I h a d learned the
w i s d o m of sticking to dry drinks. I a m including it
here because of nostalgic memories.

CUBA L I B R E • R U M A N D COCA-COLA J u i c e of
1 small L i m e ( d r o p 1/2 lime shell in, t o o ) , 2 ounces
White L a b e l R u m .

Put ingredients in Collins glass, a d d 3 or 4 large ice

cubes, fill u p w i t h C o c a - C o l a , stir quickly, a n d serve.

FRENCH 75

J u i c e of 1 L i m e or /2 L e m o n
l

2 teaspoonfuls S u g a r S y r u p
2 ounces C o g n a c

S h a k e w i t h crushed ice, p o u r into Collins glass, ice

a n d all, a n d fill u p w i t h champagne.
G i n is sometimes used in place of cognac in this
drink, but then, of course, it no longer should be called
French.

310
 12
PARTY DRINKS

Punches and Cups

Of all the various party drinks, Punches a n d C u p s
(which, as a l r e a d y pointed out, are pretty m u c h
synonymous) o c c u p y first place. T h e r e are certain very
special drinks such as the Wassail B o w l (little k n o w n
in this country) a n d the E g g N o g w h i c h occupy a
prominent position during the holiday season, but the
P u n c h bowl is the rallying point for teas, receptions,
" a t h o m e s , " a n d all m a n n e r of occasions, formal a n d
informal, a t all seasons of the year.
C u p s a r e frequently m i x e d in a glass pitcher with
ice cubes or c r a c k e d ice a n d are poured from the
pitcher, whereas Punches are m i x e d in a P u n c h b o w l .
T h i s , h o w e v e r , is purely incidental. C u p s can equally
well be m i x e d in a n d served from a P u n c h b o w l .
A n d here is y o u r opportunity to "roll y o u r o w n "
w i t h a v e n g e a n c e . W i t h a f e w basic principles kept
firmly in m i n d , there is practically no limit to the
variety of utterly delicious flavor effects you c a n pro­
duce w i t h the w i d e r a n g e of fruits, fruit juices, wines,
spirits, cordials, spices, a n d so on, that c a n be used.
T h o s e basic rules, h o w e v e r , a r e as i m p o r t a n t in the
case of Punches as they are in the case of cocktails. A
good P u n c h is something more t h a n a m e l a n g e of
m i x e d fruits floating around in sugared w a t e r . H e r e

311
are the more important rules, together w i t h a n u m b e r
of incidental suggestions that should p r o v e helpful.

1 . F i r s t of all, there are several rules that w e noted in

connection w i t h our cocktails that are equally impor­
tant in m a k i n g Punches. T h e y a r e :

(a) Use only the best-quality liquors, partic­

ularly spirits. You are looking primarily for fla­
vor; "kick" is purely secondary. From this point
of view one bottle of bonded rye or bourbon is
better than two or three of the average blend.
(b) For unsweetened fruit juices, use only
fresh fruits, freshly squeezed. Canned or bottled
sweet fruit syrups may be used but never canned
lemon juice, canned orange juice, etc. And,
above all, never use any chemical substitutes
for the citrus juices.
(c) Use only pure, clean, clear ice uncon-
taminated by any foreign flavors.
2. Use not only good-quality liquor but a good quan­
tity as well. If you want to make a prohibition Punch
(and there are many very good ones), do so. But if
you want to make an alcoholic Punch, it should be
neither so strong as to resemble knockout drops, nor so
weak that the guests will have any doubt as to whether
or not it contains liquor. A watery Punch is no better
than a watery cocktail.
3. Do not use too many different kinds of liquor
and be sure that those you do use are not inconsistent
in type. Be sure that they will "marry" into one har­
monious whole. You can blend almost any liqueurs,
especially the fruit-flavored liqueurs, with gin or Cu­
ban rum. Be careful, however, what you try to blend
with whisky. Don't try to mix several strong, pungent
liqueurs, such as Chartreuse, Kümmel, and Grand
Marnier, in one drink. That is like trying to combine
mince pie, strawberry shortcake, and chocolate ice
cream in one dessert.
4. By the same token, go easy on your cut-up fruits.
The Punches of the Gay Nineties were thick with
312
sliced oranges, lemons, bananas, cherries, chunks of
pineapple, peaches, apricots, and whatever berries
might be in season. Today people seek a refreshing
drink rather than a fruit cocktail when they come to
the Punch bowl. There are some Punches that are
started by macerating the fruits with sugar and spirits.
Even where this is done, I believe it is best to strain off
the resultant liquid and discard the pulps. Most
Punches, however, are made with fruit juices and
syrups, and to use also a lot of cut-up fruits adds noth­
ing to the flavor and is a source of nuisance to the
drinker.
5. Use a solid block of ice in the Punch bowl—as
large a block as the bowl will accommodate—and
not ice cubes. If you cannot obtain a large cake of
ice, remove the separators from your ice trays and
freeze blocks the full size of the trays instead of
separate cubes. The larger the ice block used, the
less the dilution of the drink.
6. Blend your fruit flavors, spices, and liquors or
wines well in advance of using and leave them at room
temperature for an hour or two to ripen and blend.
Then place the mixture in the refrigerator to chill for
at least an hour before emptying into the Punch bowl.
Warm liquids poured over the ice melt it and quickly
dilute the drink.
7. When ready to serve the drink, pour the chilled
mixture over the block of ice in the bowl, add the
carbonated or other sparkling beverages—champagne,
club soda, etc.—and stir briefly with the ladle before
serving. When serving, stir occasionally from the
bottom of the bowl in order to maintain a constant
blend of uniform consistency.
8. Cucumber peel imparts a peculiarly elusive and
delicate flavor to wine Punches. Peel very thin and
leave in the Punch for a few minutes only, then re­
move and discard. Bitters can be used to reduce both
oversweetness and oversharpness of the drink. A fairly
liberal seasoning with bitters will frequently point up
and give character to an otherwise insipid drink. Var-
313
 ious herbs—sprigs of mint or wintergreen tied to­
gether in a small bunch, caraway seeds, anise seeds,
juniper berries tied up in small cheesecloth bags, etc.
—can be used to produce interesting and exotic
flavors. Be sure, however, that these flavors are con­
sistent with the flavors of your liquors and fruit juices.
9. Tea is used in many Punches and Cups. See that
it is well made. Use fresh water—not water that has
been boiled before and then reheated—and have it
actively boiling. Remember that the tea will be diluted
by the other liquids and the ice and that it must,
therefore, be strong. Use 2 to 3 teaspoonfuls to each
cup of water. Pour the boiling water over the tea in an
earthenware or glass vessel, allow it to stand for 5
to 7 minutes, stirring once or twice during that time,
and then strain off. And don't use tea balls. Tea balls
do not and cannot make good tea; they make lazy
man's cambric tea.
Another method sometimes employed, where the
tea flavor is desired without the dilution resulting
from using water, is to put the tea in a cheesecloth
bag and leave it in the Punch for 15 or 20 minutes
before adding the ice.
10. How much Punch should you make? Well, of
course, that depends on the nature of the party and
the capacity of your guests. Is it a "how-d'ye-do, glad-
to-see-you, good-by" party or a "sit-around-all-after-
noon-and-talk" party? For the usual run of formal
and semi-formal affairs you can figure about two
4-ounce cups to a person. For a longer and wholly in­
formal affair, at least three cups to a person. Some
will drink more and some less, but that will be about
the average. Two 4-ounce cups are 8 ounces or / l
2

pint per person. That means, then, that each quart of

Punch will serve four persons. The recipes that follow
are all for serving twenty persons. That is to say, they
average about 5 quarts or, in some cases, a little more.

So much for the general instructions; now for a

few recipes. Any of the Sour-type individual Punches
314
 (pages 3 0 4 to 3 0 6 ) can, of course, be used for party
Punches by merely increasing the amounts proportion­
ately.

F I S H H O U S E P U N C H This is probably the most fa­

mous of all Punches. It is also one of the most potent
and one of the best. The formula is supposed to have
originated in 1 7 3 2 with that famous old Philadelphia
Club called the "State in Schuylkill." I have at least
a dozen recipes for this drink, all different and all pur­
porting to be the original and official recipe. If the one
below given is not the original recipe, it at least comes
very close to it. It is a still Punch—that is to say, it
employs plain water (which, in theory, should be fresh
spring water) in place of any carbonated beverage.

3/4 pound Loaf Sugar

11/2pints Lemon Juice
1
2 bottles Rum
1
1 bottle Cognac
31/2 pints Water
4 ounces Peach Brandy

Dissolve the sugar in part of the water in the Punch

bowl. Add the lemon juice and the balance of the
water and stir thoroughly. Then add the liquors and
allow the mixture to stand for at least 2 to 3 hours to
ripen and blend, stirring a bit from time to time. Place
a large block of ice in the bowl, stir to cool, and serve.
The original recipe, I believe, calls for Jamaica rum.
In my opinion, the drink is improved by using 1 bottle
Jamaica and 1 bottle gold label Cuban. I also prefer
to use an equivalent amount (about 1/2 pint) of sugar
syrup in place of the loaf sugar. Some recipes call for
peach liqueur in place of peach brandy. If this is used
the quantity of sugar should be reduced somewhat.
One recipe recently published as "State in Schuyl­
kill's Own Recipe" omits the peach entirely.
1
T h e word "bottle" is used in these Punch recipes to indicate
the customary "fifth" or approximately 25 ounces.

315
XALAPA PUNCH This is another simple but potent
Punch (although not as powerful as Fish House) and
is one employing tea.

2 1/2 quarts strong Black Tea

1 pint Sugar Syrup
Grated peel of 2 medium Lemons
1 bottle Applejack
1 bottle Gold Label Rum
1 bottle Claret
1 large Lemon, sliced very thin

Pour the hot tea over the lemon peel and allow to
stand 10 to 15 minutes. Add the sugar syrup and stir
thoroughly. Cool, add the liquors and claret, and let
stand an hour or more to ripen. Pour over ice in
Punch bowl and add lemon slices just before serving.

ARTILLERY PUNCH This is, indeed, well named. The

effect of three or four salvos is devastating.

1 quart Rye
1 quart Claret
1 quart strong Black Tea
1 pint Jamaica or Gold Label Rum
1/2 pint Gin
1/2 pint Cognac
1 jigger Benedictine
1 pint Orange Juice
1/2 pint Lemon Juice

Blend, allow to ripen, and pour over ice in Punch

bowl.
Note that this is a very dry mixture. For most
palates it can be improved by adding at least 1/2 pint
sugar syrup.
Another, also powerful, formula for the Artillery
Punch uses sugar, lemon juice, bitters, claret, sherry,
Scotch, brandy, and club soda. The one above given
is, in my opinion, the better of the two.
316
APPLEJACK PUNCH
8 ounces Grenadine
1 pint Lemon Juice
1 pint Orange Juice
2 bottles Applejack
2 quarts Ginger Ale
Blend all the ingredients other than the ginger ale
and allow to ripen. Add ginger ale in Punch bowl at
time of serving.

DRAGOON PUNCH This is the cavalry's answer to

the Artillery Punch.
l
/t pint Sugar Syrup
Yi pint Sherry
Yt pint Brandy
3 pints Porter
3 pints Ale
3 pints Champagne
3 Lemons, sliced very thin
Blend all ingredients except champagne in the Punch
bowl. Add champagne at last minute.

WHISKY CUP Place 1 quart strawberries in bowl with

1 teacupful or more of crushed, fresh pineapple, sprin­
kle with % pound powdered sugar, pour 1 pint
Jamaica rum over them, and allow to stand, covered,
overnight to ripen. Add 1 pint lemon juice, 1 /2 pints
orange juice, 2 quarts bourbon, and 1/2 pint grena­
dine. Blend and pour over ice in the Punch bowl. At
time of serving add 2 quarts club soda or ginger ale.

CARDINAL PUNCH The various recipes for Cardinal

Punch have one thing, and one thing only, in com­
mon : they all employ a certain amount of red wine to
produce the red or cardinal color. Most of them are
combinations of red and white wines and fruit juices,
but some also use rum or brandy and one even uses
317
 a vermouth. The following recipe is chosen at random
from many:
1/2 pint Sugar Syrup
1 pint Lemon Juice
Grated rind of 4 Lemons
1 quart Rhine Wine
2 quarts Red Burgundy
2 quarts Club Soda
Blend and ripen all ingredients except the soda. Add
club soda at time of serving.

BRANDY PUNCH
1/2 pint Sugar Syrup
1/2 pint Curaçao
1 pint Lemon Juice
1 pint Orange Juice
2 ounces Grenadine
2 bottles Cognac
2 quarts Club Soda
Blend and ripen all ingredients except the soda. Add
soda at time of serving.

ROCKY MOUNTAIN PUNCH

4 ounces Sugar Syrup
4 ounces Maraschino
1 pint Lemon Juice
1 bottle Jamaica Rum
4 quarts Champagne
Blend and ripen other ingredients and add cham­
pagne at time of serving.

FRUIT BOWLS • PEACH BOWL • PINEAPPLE BOWL

APRICOT BOWL • STRAWBERRY BOWL The
Bowls all consist of fresh fruit, sugar, and a dry white
wine. Peel and slice 6 ripe peaches, or 6 to 8 apricots,
318
 or 1 pineapple, or wash and slightly crush 1 full quart
strawberries. Place the fruit in a glass bowl or glazed
crock, sprinkle with about 34 pound sugar. Pour 1/2
bottle Rhine wine over the fruit, cover, and allow to
stand overnight. Stir mixture, pour over ice in Punch
bowl, and add Rhine wine or a similar dry white wine
to bring total quantity up to 5 quarts. Serve 1 or 2
berries or slices of other fruit in each drink.
A heavy wine—Madeira or dry sherry—may be used
in macerating the fruit, but a very dry white wine
should be the principal ingredient of the Punch.

LAFAYETTE PUNCH This is the simplest to prepare of

all Champagne Punches. Slice a half dozen oranges
and arrange in bottom of Punch bowl. Sprinkle heav­
ily with sugar, pour 1 bottle moselle wine over the
fruit, and allow to stand 1 hour or more to ripen.
Place large block of ice in bowl and add 4 quarts
champagne or 1 quart Moselle and 3 quarts cham­
pagne at time of serving.

CHAMPAGNE PUNCH There are many varieties of

Champagne Punches employing all manner of other
wines and liquors in addition to the champagne. Some
of them use both champagne and charged water. Per­
sonally, I like either of these liquids in a Punch, but
I do not like to see them used in combination. The
following is, I think, as good as any Champagne
Punch I know.
Peel, slice, and crush three or four thoroughly ripe
pineapples. Place in a glass bowl, cover with a pound
or more of powdered sugar, and allow to stand an
hour or more for fruit to soak up the sugar. Add 1
pint lemon juice, 4 ounces maraschino, 4 ounces
curaçao, 1 pint cognac, and 1 pint Jamaica rum. Stir,
cover, and allow to stand overnight to ripen. Put in
Punch bowl with large block of ice and, at time of
serving, add 4 quarts champagne.
319
 RHINE WINE PUNCH
1/2 pint Sugar Syrup
I pint Lemon Juice
1 pint Dry Sherry
1/2 pint Cognac
1/2 pint strong Black Tea
3 quarts Rhine Wine
1 quart Club Soda
Cucumber Peel.
Blend ingredients other than soda in Punch bowl.
Leave thin slices green cucumber peel in for about 10
minutes, then remove. Add charged water at time of
serving and stir.

MAY WINE This is a famous old German drink which

depends for its flavor upon the herb Waldmeister or
woodruff, which can be gathered green in the spring
of the year.
Sprinkle a half dozen bunches of Waldmeister with
1/2 to 34 pound powdered sugar. Place in glass bowl
or glazed crock and add 1/2 pint cognac and 1 quart
Moselle or other white wine. Cover and let stand
overnight. Stir and strain. Pour over ice into Punch
bowl and add 3 quarts Moselle and 2 quarts cham­
pagne. Charged water may be substituted for the
champagne if desired.

BALAKLAVA NECTAR
1/2 pint Sugar Syrup
1/2 pint Lemon Juice
Grated peel of 3 or 4 Lemons
2 quarts Claret
3 quarts Champagne
Mix ingredients other than champagne and allow to
ripen. Add champagne at time of serving. Some
recipes substitute charged water for 1 or 2 bottles of
the champagne.
320
POOR MAN'S PUNCH
1/2 pint Sugar Syrup
1¡2 pint Raspberry Syrup
1 pint Lemon Juice
2 quarts Claret
2 quarts Club Soda
Mix and ripen all except the soda. Add soda at time
of serving.

CLARET CUP
1/2 pint Sugar Syrup
1/2 pint Lemon Juice
1 pint Orange Juice
4 ounces Curaçao
4 ounces Pineapple Juice
2 ounces Maraschino
2 quarts Claret
2 quarts Club Soda
Add charged water only at time of serving.

BURGUNDY CUP Same as Claret Cup, but use red

burgundy in place of the claret and use Benedictine
in place of maraschino.

SAUTERNE CUP Same as Burgundy Cup, but use Sau-

terne in place of burgundy and use 4 ounces cognac
in place of the pineapple juice.

STIRRUP CUP
1 part Brown Sugar, dissolved in water
2 parts Lime Juice
4 parts Pineapple Juice
12 parts Rum
This drink is frequently served as an individual Punch
in a tall glass full of cracked ice and decorated with
a lemon-peel spiral like a Horse's Neck. There is no
321
 reason, however, why it should not be served, like
other Punches, as a party drink.

MISSOURI PUNCH
1/2 pint Sugar Syrup
1/2 pint Lemon Juice
1 bottle Brandy
1 bottle Bourbon
1 bottle Jamaica Rum
2 quarts Club Soda
Add soda at time of serving.
This Punch, too, is commonly served as an individ­
ual Punch. It is then made according to the usual
Sour proportions and is served in a tall glass of
crushed ice with only a small quantity of charged
water.

Prohibition Punches
The possibilities in making non-alcoholic Punches are
almost as unlimited as with spirituous and vinous
Punches. Starting with lemon or lime juice for the
Sour, practically any kind of fruit syrup can be used
for the sweet, or sugar can be used with orange, pine­
apple, or some similar fresh fruit juice, and the com­
bination can then be made sparkling with ginger ale
or soda. Here are two or three that are offered merely
by way of suggestion.

LEMON ICE PUNCH • ORANGE ICE PUNCH Put

lemon or orange ice in the Punch bowl and add ginger
ale in the proportion of i quart of ginger ale to each
pint of the ice. Raspberry, pineapple, or any other
water ice or sherbet can be substituted.
This Punch can, of course, be spiked if so desired.
Either plain or spiked, it has just one thing to recom­
mend it—it requires only a quick dash to the corner
drugstore to secure the water ice, after which it can
be prepared instantaneously.
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WHITE ANGEL PUNCH
1/2 pint Sugar Syrup
1 pint Lemon Juice
1 quart strong Green Tea
2 quarts White Grape Juice
2 quarts Club Soda
Prepare like any other Punch, adding the soda at time
of serving.

BLUE ANGEL PUNCH Same as White Angel, but use

black tea and ordinary purple grape juice.

GOLDEN DAWN PUNCH

1 pint Apricot Syrup
1 pint Lime Juice
3 pints Orange Juice
3 quarts Club Soda
Prepare and serve same as the Angel Punches. The
juice from canned apricots can be used in place of the
apricot syrup. In this case use a quart in place of the
pint of the heavier syrup.

Swizzles
A Swizzle is simply a Sour-type drink churned with
a swizzle stick until it attains a foamy appearance and
the container becomes frosted. A swizzle stick is any
long rod—wood, metal, plastic, or what have you—
with several short blades or fingers attached to the
bottom at right angles to the shaft, like an old-fash­
ioned paddle wheel and axle stood on end. The bladed
end is immersed in the drink, the shaft is held be­
tween the palms of the hand, and the whole stick
is rapidly rotated by sliding the hands back and forth
against one another.
The Swizzle is commonly served at bars as an in-
323
 dividual drink in Highball glasses partly filled with
fine ice. A miniature swizzle stick is frequently fur­
nished the customer who does his own swizzling. This
gives the customer an extra kick and saves the bar­
tender both time and effort. Strictly speaking, how­
ever, the Swizzle is a party drink. It should be made in
a large glass or silver pitcher. Fill the pitcher about
two-thirds full of finely crushed or shaved ice, pour
in the drink, churn with the swizzle stick until the
pitcher is well frosted, and then pour into pre-chilled
glasses. The individual drinks may be decorated with
fruit or a sprig of mint if desired.
Since the Swizzle comes from the West Indies, the
original Swizzle is, of course, made with Rum—
Jamaica rum. Like any other drink of the Sour type,
however, it can be made of any other liquor if desired.
Liqueurs can, of course, be substituted for the sugar
syrup. There are also some who like to swizzle aro­
matic-type drinks, such as whisky and vermouth. This
is, in effect, a swizzled Manhattan. A few dashes of
bitters will lend character to any Swizzle, either Sour
or aromatic.

RUM SWIZZLE • APPLEJACK SWIZZLE • BRANDY

SWIZZLE • GIN SWIZZLE • WHISKY SWIZZLE
1 part Sugar Syrup or a Liqueur
2 parts Lime or Lemon Juice
8 parts Rum or other Liquor
1 or 2 dashes Angostura to each drink

With rum or gin, use lime juice. With the other

liquors, use lemon juice.
With rum, try orgeat or falernum in place of the
sugar. With whisky, try Chartreuse.

I do not recommend swizzling the aromatic-type

drinks. However, try them if you wish. Remember,
though, that swizzling, like shaking, will give the
vermouth a cloudy, muddy appearance.
324
Shrubs
A Shrub is a ripened mixture of fruit juice, sugar,
and spirits. The aging can be done in a wooden cask,
a stone crock, or glass bottles. If the Shrub is to be
kept any appreciable length of time before using, it
is best to bottle it and cork it tight when it is made.
In using, the Shrub is diluted with water (either plain
or carbonated) and thoroughly chilled. Shrubs are
usually fortified with either brandy or Jamaica rum,
but this is optional. Applejack can be used as well and,
with fruits such as raspberries, strawberries, and
cherries, a white Cuban rum or even gin can be used.
The original Shrub was made with lemons, but, as
above noted, any fruit juice can be used.

LEMON-RUM SHRUB
1 pint Lemon Juice
Grated Rind of 3 Lemons
2 pounds Sugar
2 quarts Jamaica Rum
1 quart Water
Pour the rum over the lemon rind and let stand 2 or 3
days. Add the other ingredients, mix thoroughly until
sugar is dissolved, strain, and bottle. Should remain
in bottles 5 to 6 weeks before using. It is well to heat
the water and sugar until sugar is thoroughly dis­
solved before adding to other ingredients.

ORANGE-RUM SHRUB
2 quarts Orange Juice
Grated Rind of 2 Oranges
1 pound Sugar
2 quarts Rum (any type)
Proceed same as with Lemon-Rum Shrub. If sugar is
to be separately dissolved, use as little water as pos­
sible for this purpose.

325
FRESH FRUIT SHRUBS Use fruits that are somewhat
tart, such as cherries, currants, strawberries, rasp­
berries, etc. Cook the fruit to extract the juice and
strain it. Add sugar and boil with the juice, keeping
it well skimmed. The quantity of sugar depends on the
acidity of the fruit. With currants or strawberries
use about 3/4 pound to each pint of juice; with sweet
cherries or raspberries, about 1/2 pound. Cool, add 2
to 4 ounces of cognac for each quart of syrup, and
bottle.

Wassail Bowl
While the Wassail is a hot drink, it is included here
because it is traditionally a party drink for feast days
and, particularly, for Christmas Eve. The Wassail
Bowl never gained the popularity in this country that
it enjoyed in England. The drink may be made of
wine, cider, beer, or almost any combination of those
three liquids. White wine, if used, is used alone. The
heavy wines, such as sherry and Madeira, are used
either alone or in combination with beer. Some was-
sailers, seeking greater potency in the beverage, add
a spot of brandy to the sherry or Madeira. Here is a
typical recipe:

OLD ENGLISH WASSAIL Boil together in 1/ pint of

2

water, 1 tablespoonful powdered nutmeg, 2 teaspoon-

fuls ginger, 6 cloves, 1/2 teaspoonful mace, a half
dozen allspice berries, and a 2-inch stick of cinnamon.
Add 2 pounds sugar and 4 bottles sherry or Madeira.
Cook over a slow fire.
Core and bake a dozen apples.
Beat separately the yolks and whites of 12 eggs and
fold together. Put the beaten eggs in a large bowl
and add the heated wine and spice mixture, pouring
in, at first, very small quantities and stirring briskly
with each addition.
After the hot wine and eggs have been thoroughly
beaten together, add the baked apples to the foaming
326
 mixture. If cognac is to be added, do this toward
the end of the beating and just before adding the
apples. If both beer and wine are to be used, cook
the spices and sugar in about a pint of the beer, then
add the rest of the beer and sherry, using 1 part
sherry to 3 or 4 of beer.

BROWN BETTY Boil 1/ pound brown sugar, juice of

2

1 lemon, and 1 teaspoonful assorted spices in 1 pint

water. Add 1/2 pint cognac and 1 quart ale, bring all
to the boiling point, and pour into a bowl over slices
of toasted raisin bread that has been dusted with cin­
namon and ginger.
This is not a true Wassail Bowl, but it is included
here because of its close similarity. This drink is also
sometimes iced and served cold.

Nogs
What the Wassail Bowl failed to achieve in popularity
in this country the Egg Nog has made up for. It is the
traditional drink of the holiday season from Christmas
Eve to New Year's night, and it is also served on
many other festive occasions.
There are almost as many battles over Egg Nogs as
over Juleps. Should the Nog be made liquid, to drink,
or solid, to eat? Should the whole egg be used or only
the yolk? If the white is used, should it be beaten stiff
and folded in? Should cream be used, or milk, or
both? If cream is used, should it be whipped? Should
the Nog be consumed at once after making or allowed
to stand several days to ripen? What liquor or liquors
give the best flavor?
Different schools of thought on these various ques­
tions have given rise to scores of recipes. A few typical
ones will be given here, including both the simple Egg
Nog as an individual drink, shaken up and consumed
at once, and several party Nogs to be served from the
Punch bowl, in cups and, preferably, with small

327
 spoons. In making party Nogs, there are a few rules
that should be carefully followed.
1. The yolks should be beaten until they are
light and frothy. Usually the sugar is then beaten
into the yolks and the liquor is then stirred
gradually into the mixture, and this is allowed
to stand for an hour or more to cook the eggs.
Some, however, prefer to add the liquor to the
eggs first and the sugar later.
2. When using stiffly beaten egg whites, these
must be folded, not beaten, into the mixture.
This is done by beating the whites separately
and pouring them on top of the rest of the mix­
ture. With a large spoon, cut through the whole
mixture to the bottom of the bowl, dip up a
spoonful of the mixture, bring it up along the
side of the bowl, and pour it over the top. Con­
tinue cutting, dipping, and pouring in this
manner until the whites are fully blended into
the mixture. Even a small amount of beating
will ruin the entire Nog.
3. When beating the egg whites, it is helpful
to add about 1/4 teaspoonful salt for each 4
whites.
4. The Nog should be kept in a cool place until
used. It may be poured into a pre-chilled Punch
bowl, but no ice is ever put in the Nog. Dust the
top of each cup with grated nutmeg when serv­
ing.

INDIVIDUAL EGG NOG

1
Egg
1 teaspoonful Sugar
2 ounces Liquor
8 ounces Milk
Shake vigorously with cracked ice, strain into a tall
glass, and serve with a dash of nutmeg over the top.
This may be made with sherry, port, Madeira, apple­
jack, gin, cognac, rum, or whisky, as desired. Some-
328
 times two liquors such as cognac and rum or sherry
and cognac are used.

BALTIMORE EGG NOG

12 Eggs
1 pound Sugar
1 pint Cognac
1/2 pint Jamaica Rum
1/2 pint Peach Brandy
3 pints Milk
1 pint Cream
Beat yolks to a foam, add the liquor slowly, then the
sugar, stirring constantly. Then add the milk and
cream and, finally, fold in the stiffly beaten whites.

KENTUCKY EGG NOG

12 Eggs
2 pounds Sugar
1 quart Bourbon
1 pint Jamaica Rum
1 pint Cognac
1 pint Milk
3 pints Heavy Cream
Beat yolks, beat in the sugar, then slowly stir in the
bourbon and rum. Stir in the milk and cream and then
the cognac. Finally, fold in the stiffly beaten whites.

FRANKLIN FARMS EGG NOG

12 Eggs
1 pound Sugar
1 quart Jamaica Rum
1 pint Peach Brandy
3 pints Heavy Cream
Beat yolks to a froth and slowly stir in the cream. Stir
in sugar and then add the liquors very slowly, stirring
constantly. Fold in half of the beaten egg whites. Beat
329
 the other half very stiff and pour over top of the
mixture in the Punch bowl.
This recipe differs from all others in that the liquor
is not added until the cream has been mixed with the
yolks. It produces a Nog of a different consistency
because the liquor does not cook the yolks as it does
when added directly to them. It is easier to make be­
cause there is less danger of curdling the eggs.

PENDENNIS CLUB EGG NOG

12 Egg Yolks
1 pound Sugar
1 quart Bourbon
2 quarts Heavy Cream
Mix the bourbon and sugar and allow them to stand
for 3 hours or more.
Beat the yolks to a froth and combine gradually
with the sweetened whisky, stirring constantly. Allow
the egg-and-whisky mixture to stand for 21/2to 3 hours
to cook the yolks.
Whip the cream stiff and fold into the egg-whisky
mixture. Place in bowl, pack bowl in ice, and allow to
stand for an hour. Note that this recipe does not use
the egg whites.

WESTERN EGG NOG

12 Eggs
1/2 pound Sugar
1 bottle (fifth) Bourbon
1 jigger Jamaica Rum
3 pints Heavy Cream
Beat the yolks to a froth and beat in the sugar. Slowly
stir in the liquor. Whip the cream and stir it into the
mixture. Beat the whites until light, but not stiff, and
stir them into the mixture.
Note that this Nog has a different consistency and
texture from most, owing to the fact that the whites
330
 are not beaten stiff and folded in but are beaten only
until light and foamy and are then stirred in.

There are hot as well as cold Egg Nogs. In general,

the Individual Egg Nog (page 328) can be made as
a hot drink by using either hot water or, preferably,
hot milk in place of cold milk and omitting the chilling
process. There is, however, one drink of a distinctly
party-Nog type that, in the pre-prohibition days, was
to be found at practically every bar during the entire
Christmas season. It was served, piping hot and froth­
ing, in Tom and Jerry mugs which very much re­
sembled the old-time shaving mugs. Here it is:
TOM AND JERRY
1 dozen Eggs
1/2 pound Sugar
4 ounces Jamaica Rum
1 tablespoonful each ground Allspice, Cinnamon, &
Cloves
Beat yolks and whites separately. Beat in the sugar
and spices with yolks, then pour in the rum gradually,
stirring constantly. Finally, fold in the whites. Store
this in a large bowl.
Put a ladleful of the mixture in a large mug, add
2 ounces bourbon, fill mug with boiling water or
hot milk, and stir vigorously until the whole drink
foams. Dust with ground nutmeg and, if desired, float
1 teaspoonful of cognac on top.

331
 13
HOT DRINKS

Mention has already been made of the Wassail Bowl

(page 326) as a hot party drink and of a number of
other drinks that are served sometimes cold and some­
times hot, such as the Sangarees (page 298), the
Toddies and Slings (page 298), the Punches (page
303), and the Nogs (page 3 3 1 ) , particularly the Tom
and Jerry (page 3 3 1 ) .
There are also a number of other hot drinks of
which at least a brief mention should be made, al­
though they are seldom seen today, at least in this
country. Some are individual drinks and some are
party drinks.

Possets
A Posset consists of sweetened and spiced milk curdled
with hot ale or wine. Eggs are frequently added to the
mixture and sometimes, when eggs are used, the milk
is omitted and the mixture is called an Egg Posset.

ALE POSSET
1 quart Heavy Cream
1 pint Ale
332
 10 Eggs
1 tablespoonful Sugar
Spices as desired

Beat the yolks of the 10 eggs and the whites of 5 with

the sugar and cream and, when thoroughly blended,
stir in the ale. Sprinkle liberally with nutmeg and, if
desired, ground cinnamon, cloves, or other spices.
Cook over a slow fire until mixture thickens and serve
in mugs or Punch cups.

WINE POSSET
1 quart Milk
1/2 pint Dry White Wine
1 tablespoonful Sugar
1 teaspoonful grated Lemon Peel
Spices as desired.

Boil the milk and wine together until the milk curdles.
Strain off the whey and dissolve the sugar and grated
lemon in it. Press the curdled milk through a sieve,
sprinkle with nutmeg and any other desired spices,
beat into the sweetened whey, and serve piping hot.

EGG POSSET
Yolks of 12 Eggs
2 quarts Dry White Wine
1/2 teacupful Sugar
1 teaspoonful ground Spices (Nutmeg, Cinnamon,
Cloves, etc., as desired)
Beat yolks to a froth and beat in the sugar and spices.
Heat the wine to boiling point and pour slowly into
the egg mixture, stirring constantly. Serve at once.
If desired, 1/2 pint Jamaica rum may be substituted
for 1 pint of the wine. This makes a more potent
drink which is sometimes called RUM BOOZE.

333
Mulls
A Mull or Mulled Wine is simply a spiced and
sweetened wine served piping hot. Traditionally, the
wine was placed in a pitcher and heated by thrusting
a white-hot poker into it. This, of course, is the spec­
tacular way of doing it, and it may have answered
very well in the days of large fireplaces and corre­
spondingly large and heavy pokers. Perhaps a bit of
soot and ash on the poker may even have tended to
reduce the acidity of the wine. In the present super-
sanitary air-conditioned age, however, white-hot
pokers are not usually lying around handy, and it is
more practicable and, in my opinion, much more
satisfactory to heat the mixture over the kitchen
range or even on an electric grill.

GLUHWEIN • MULLED WINE

1 quart Wine
Peel of 1 Lemon & 1 Orange
Spices to taste
1 tablespoonful Sugar
If ground spices are used, cook 1 to 2 teaspoonfuls of
them with the lemon and orange peels and sugar in
1 cup water until flavor is well dissolved and then add
the wine. It is even better to use 1 crushed, but not
grated, nutmeg, 2 to 3 inches stick cinnamon, and a
half dozen whole cloves; boil them with the sugar and
lemon and orange peels in the wine and strain out.
With the heavy wines—Madeira, port, or sherry—
heat to the desired temperature and serve immedi­
ately. Do not allow the wine to boil, as this detracts
from the flavor. With light wines, such as claret and
burgundy, the mixture may be allowed to simmer over
a low flame for 5 to 10 minutes.

Negus
The Negus is a sweetened, spiced wine (usually port)
served with hot water. It is quite similar to the Mulls
334
 but differs from them traditionally in that, with the
one, the wine is heated by the hot-poker (or saucepan)
method, whereas, with the other, the wine is heated
by the addition of hot water. The drink is said to have
been invented during the reign of Queen Anne by one
Colonel Francis Negus.

NEGUS
1 quart Port
1 tablespoonful Sugar
Grated Peel of 1 Lemon
Juice of 2 Lemons
Spices as desired
1 quart boiling Water
Warm the wine but do not let it boil. Pour into a
heated jug with the sugar, lemon, and spices and let
stand where all will keep warm for 10 to 15 minutes.
Add the boiling water, stir well, and serve piping hot.
If preferred, the sugar and spices may be boiled in the
water and then added to the warm wine.
Other wines, either heavy or light, may be used.
The light wines, such as claret or burgundy, may be
boiled, but port, sherry, or Madeira should never be
allowed to boil.
For choice and quantity of spices, see under Mulls,
above.

Bishops
The Bishop is quite similar to the Wassail Bowl (page
326) except that ale is never used and baked or
roasted oranges are used instead of apples.
ENGLISH BISHOP Stick from 1 to 2 dozen whole cloves
in an orange and bake or roast it. Cut hot orange in
quarters, place in glass double boiler, and pour over
it 1 quart port together with 1 tablespoonful sugar
or honey. Allow to simmer over boiling water in
double boiler (or in saucepan over very low flame)
335
 for 20 to 30 minutes and serve hot. Remember that
boiling the port will damage its flavor.
Other wines may be substituted for the port. When
claret is used the drink becomes a CARDINAL; and a
very fancy variety, using bitter oranges, letting the
roasted oranges stand in the claret for a day, then
pressing out the juice and reheating, is called BISHOP
A LA PRUSSE. When champagne is used in place of
port the drink is called a POPE. There is also a CIDER
BISHOP and, in making this one, the cider is usually
spiked with applejack or cognac.

Grogs
My Modern Dictionary defines Grog as a mixture
of spirits and cold water, unsweetened. This, un­
doubtedly, is the good nautical meaning of the term,
dating back to the time when the men of England
first commenced to go down to the sea in ships. Never­
theless, in American parlance the term is more usually
used to refer to a hot drink and one that not only is
sweetened but also contains lemon juice or, at the
very least, is served with a slice of lemon.

HOT GROG
1 jigger Jamaica Rum
1 teaspoonful Sugar Syrup
1 tablespoonful Lemon Juice

Stir the above ingredients together in a Highball glass

or mug, fill up with hot water, and add a twist of
lemon peel. Any other spirituous liquor can, of course,
be substituted, but the traditional Grog is made with
a heavy-bodied rum such as Jamaica, New England,
or Demerara. Hot tea is sometimes used instead of
water and makes a better drink.
If molasses is used in place of sugar, this drink be­
comes a BLACK STRIPE. See also page 217.
336
HOT SPICED RUM • HOT BUTTERED RUM While not
strictly a Grog because it is both sweetened and spiced,
this may be as good a place as any to mention Hot
Spiced Rum. Any place that it might be mentioned, to
me, would be out of place. Hot liquors have a number
of definite medicinal uses. They are excellent to warm
up on after exposure to cold (see page 192). Taken
upon retiring, they are excellent diaphoretics and
hypnotics—that is, they promote both perspiration
and sleep. With one or two exceptions, such as the
Tom and Jerry, however, their use should, in my
opinion, be strictly limited to medicinal purposes. How
anyone can possibly consume them for pleasure is
utterly beyond me. And, of all the hot liquors, I regard
Buttered Rum as the worst. The Hot Spiced Rum
without the butter is bad enough, but the lump of
butter is the final insult. It blends with the hot rum
just about as satisfactorily as warm olive oil blends
with champagne! I believe that the drinking of Hot
Buttered Rum should be permitted only in the North­
west Passage and, even there, only by highly imagina­
tive and overenthusiastic novelists. However, just as a
curiosity, here is the recipe:
1 jigger Jamaica or New England Rum
1 teaspoonful Sugar Syrup
Spices to taste
1 small lump Butter
Hot Water
Stir rum and sugar in mug or Highball glass. Fill with
hot water, add spices, float butter on top, and stir
gently until butter is dissolved. Some recipes call only
for a few whole cloves, others call for 1/2 teaspoonful
mixed ground spices—cloves, allspice, mace, etc. Fre­
quently a little ground cinnamon or nutmeg is dusted
over the top when the drink is served.

The above is the usual recipe. Trader Vic, in his ex­

cellent Book of Food and Drink, a copy of which
should be in the hands of every true gourmet, recom-
337
 mends that the sugar (brown) and butter be first
thoroughly creamed together with the spices and that
the hot water and rum be added to this batter and
stirred well. He has even prepared a ready-mixed
batter for the market and it is excellent. This un­
questionably makes a much better drink than the
usual formula given above. As medicine, it is not too
bad, but, to me, it is still definitely and solely a medic­
inal drink.

Coffee Drinks
Café noir with cognac or a liqueur constitutes the
perfect finale to a dinner. The two may be sipped
separately and alternately or they may be combined,
either with or without igniting the liqueur. Here are
a few flaming coffee specials.

CAFE ROYAL Float 1 or 2 teaspoonfuls cognac on a

cup of hot coffee. Place a cube of sugar in a teaspoon,
fill the spoon with cognac, and warm it over the coffee
or by holding near a lighted candle (but not over the
flame lest the spoon be coated with soot). Light the
liquor in the spoon and, as it burns, lower it gently
into the coffee, holding it barely below the surface of
the liquid, thereby igniting the whole top surface of
the liquid. Swish spoon gently back and forth in cup
until flame dies out.

ALHAMBRA ROYAL Same as Café Royal, but made

with hot chocolate instead of coffee. You probably will
not be able to get the cognac to burn in the chocolate,
but you can try.

CAFÉ KIRSCH Same as Café Royal, but use kirsch in­

stead of cognac.
Any other fruit brandy or any citrus liqueur may be
used in the same manner. I recommend curaçao and
338
 Grand Marnier. With the sweet liqueurs, omit the
sugar cube.

CAFÉ DIABLE T o each full cup (8 ounces) of coffee,

use 1 cup cognac, 1 slice each orange and lemon peel,
2 large cubes sugar, and 2 whole cloves. Warm the
above ingredients (other than the coffee) in a silver
bowl. Dip out a ladleful of the cognac and light.
Lower it into bowl and dip up a ladleful at a time and
pour back, at the same time gradually pouring the
hot coffee into the mixture. Continue until the flame
dies out, then serve in cups.
Another method of serving this—spectacular but
not altogether practical—is to cut through the outer
skin of an orange all around the center and gently
pry back each half of the skin and turn inside out
as you would the finger of a glove. Leave each half
attached at the end. One half serves as the base of
this citrus chalice, the skinned orange rests above this
base, and the other half of the skin reposes on top of
all and serves as the cup. Fill this orange cup 2/3 full of
hot coffee, add the cognac, cloves, sugar, and lemon
peel. Ignite and, when flame has burned out, serve.
Each orange cup should be set on a saucer. The
skinned orange center is used as the handle or stem.
Very sensational, but also very tricky and likely to be
rather messy. I recommend using a silver bowl and
ladling the mixture into demitasses.

CAFÉ BRÛLOT Made in a silver bowl the same as Café

Diable but, in addition to the cloves and lemon and
orange peels, use stick cinnamon and vanilla bean. If
desired, the sugar cubes may first be rubbed with
citrus fruits—grapefruit, tangerines, kumquats, limes,
etc.—for additional flavor.

Blue Blazer
I have not seen a Blue Blazer mixed at any bar for
more than thirty years. However, it must be that some-
339
 one, somewhere, still mixes them, for even today
practically every recipe book gives the formula and
calls attention to the fact that "if properly done, this
will have the appearance of a continual stream of
fire." My good old manual of the eighties also adds,
"This is a very elegant drink in cold weather and has
a wonderful effect of healing an old cold, especially
when the party goes to bed soon after drinking it."
Here it is.

BLUE BLAZER In one silver or pewter mug dissolve 1

tablespoonful honey in enough hot water to fill the
mug half full. Put an equal amount of Scotch in the
other mug. Ignite the liquor and, while it is burning,
pour back and forth from one mug to the other four
or five times until the flame dies out. Pour into a
heavy, heatproof glass, add a twist of lemon peel, dust
nutmeg over the top, and serve.

Scandinavian Hot Drinks

These might have been included with the other hot
drinks, such as the Wassail Bowl, under "Party Drinks."
Glogg is to a Swedish Christmas what the Wassail
Bowl was to Old England and what the Egg Nog is
in this country. Both the Swedish Glogg and the
Danish 0gge go with winter sports.

GLOGG
1 quart Cognac
1 pint Sherry
1/2 cup Sugar
1 dozen Cloves
2 - or 3-inch stick of Cinnamon
1/2 cup Raisins
1/2 cup blanched but unsalted Almonds
Put all the ingredients except the sherry in a silver
bowl, warm, ignite, and stir until sugar is dissolved
and flame dies down. Stir in the sherry and serve while
340
 still hot. Port, Madeira, burgundy, or claret may be
substituted for the sherry.
Any leftover Glogg may be bottled, corked tight,
and kept. Reheat to temperature just below boiling
point before serving.

OGGE
1 quart Beer
2 ounces Sugar Syrup
4 Egg Yolks
Beat the sugar into the yolks, heat the beer to the
boiling point, and stir gradually into the yolks. Dust
with nutmeg and serve.

341
 14
PICKER-UPPERS

Picker-uppers are drinks that are supposed to restore

the tired brain and body to a semblance of normalcy
on the morning after the night before. Actually, little,
if any, beneficial effect will be obtained from any of
them. Excessive doses of alcohol act as acute irritants
on the mucous membranes of the intestinal tract, pro­
ducing intestinal catarrh, hyperacidity, and extreme
fatigue. Because of its great affinity for nerve tissue,
alcohol induces a partial paralysis, mental or muscu­
lar, or both. As previously pointed out, there is a
dilatation of the peripheral blood vessels (giving a
false sense of warmth) and a certain amount of cardiac
stimulation, resulting in a strong, full, and active pulse.
Respiration is increased, the lungs working hard to
oxidize and eliminate the alcohol.
So long as any of the alcohol remains in the stomach,
relief may be obtained by emptying and washing out
the stomach. Filling the stomach to capacity with hot
water, inducing regurgitation (tickling the throat with
the finger tip being the most common means), re­
filling the stomach with hot water, again emptying it,
and finally drinking one or two glasses of warm water
with a bit of aromatic ammonia or sodium bicarbonate
will usually give decided relief.

342
 The morning after, however, is far too late for any
such treatment. Bromo-Seltzer, Alka-Seltzer, sodium
bicarbonate, or some similar alkaline agent may help
reduce the acidity and reduce the catarrhal condition.
Caffeine, strychnine, or some other stimulant may
allay some of the fatigue. Warm milk or a small
quantity of olive oil may help soothe the irritated
membranes of the stomach. Complete relief will be
obtained, however, only after the alcohol has been
entirely eliminated—through the lungs, through the
skin, through the kidneys, and through the intestines.
Such elimination can be accelerated to some degree
by inducing perspiration (as in a Turkish bath), by
increasing respiration (a brisk walk in the fresh air),
and by accelerating the emptying of the bowels (a
saline laxative such as Epsom salts). By the morning
after, however, most of the alcohol has already found
its way into the blood stream and time, and time only,
will oxidize and eliminate it. And during that time
the great restorer is rest, and more rest, and still more
rest.
All of which is by way of pointing out that any
supposedly beneficial effects from the consumption of
still more alcohol are psychological rather than physi-
ological. You don't treat arsenic poisoning by taking
more arsenic or ptomaine poisoning by eating more
contaminated food. Why be so naïve as to imagine
that you can cure alcohol poisoning by drinking more
alcohol?
Nevertheless, superstitions, however absurd, are
hard to kill off and, in order that you may know at
least a few of the theoretical "eye-openers," "re-
storers," "bracers," and what not, here are some of
the more common of them.
The Suissesse (page 257) and Suissesse Highball
(page 272) as well as the Morning Glory Fizz (page
285) have already been mentioned. Next in impor-
tance, perhaps, is champagne—and lots of it. There
are many advocates of Sours and, just to tie the
"mixing-drinks-will-make-you-drunk" superstition in

343
 with the equally silly one of using a "hair of the dog
that bit you," the Sour devotees insist that the drink
must be made of whatever the liquor may have been
that knocked you out the night before.
Hot coffee, milk—either warm or cold—and tomato
juice have all been recommended. These all do have
a certain merit and none of them commits the error
of pouring more alcohol into an alcohol-raw stomach.
Egg Nogs also can be defended to a degree, particu­
larly if the amount of cognac or other liquor content
is kept at a minimum.
And now, as a final type of picker-upper, here are
two that must be based on the theory of using a
counterirritant.

PRAIRIE OYSTER Mix together in an Old-Fashioned or

Sour glass the following:
1 ounce Cognac
1 tablespoonful Vinegar
1 tablespoonful Worcestershire
1 teaspoonful Catsup
1 teaspoonful Angostura
Drop the yolk of an egg into the mixture, add a small
dash of cayenne. Swallow, without breaking the yolk
of the egg.

OLD PEPPER
1 jigger Whisky
Juice of1/2Lemon
1 teaspoonful Worcestershire
1 teaspoonful Chili Sauce or 1 tablespoonful Tomato
Juice
2 or 3 dashes Angostura
1 dash Tabasco
Mix thoroughly and serve in Sour glass.

344
 15
FOOD AND DRINK

We in America are just beginning to wake up to the

value of wines and, to a somewhat lesser degree, of
spirituous liquors in cooking. The well-recognized
and peculiar excellence of French cooking has been
due in no small part to the lavish use of wines: first,
in marinating and tenderizing meats before cooking;
second, during the cooking process; and, third, in the
making of all manner of sauces.
Alcohol, of course, vaporizes at a very low tem­
perature, and even the most rabid prohibitionist need
have no fear of any alcoholic residue in a dish, such as
a pot roast, a casserole, etc., that has cooked for an
hour or more, even if the liquid used consisted solely
of wine. Furthermore, in most cases, the taste of the
finished product bears no resemblance to the taste of
the wine or liquor used in the cooking. The flavor of
the food and that of the wine "marry" and produce
an entirely new taste effect that is delicious and quite
indescribable. Until you have tasted venison marinated
in red wine, ham baked with Madeira, roast beef
basted with stout, or steak and lobster broiled over
charcoal and basted with Spanish brandy, you have
not tasted any of those meats at its best.
It is not my purpose, however, to take up the sub-
345
 ject of cooking with wines and liquors. There are a
number of books on the market on this type of cookery,
several of which are of outstanding excellence. There
are, however, a number of wine and liquor mixtures
that may well be classed as both food and drink. Prac­
tically all the egg or milk and liquor combinations fall
into this category, including the Flips (page 230),
the Sherry and Egg and similar drinks using a whole
egg or an egg yolk (page 253), the Nogs (page 327),
the Possets (page 332), and the Milk Punches (page
303).
There are two more to which I wish to call your
attention, the Sabayon and the Syllabub, the first of
which is, in effect, a hot Nog or Custard and the
second a Milk Punch.

SABAYON • ZABAGLIONE The first spelling given is

the French, the second the Italian. It is also sometimes
spelled ZABAIONE and sometimes ZAMBAGLIONE.
6 Egg Yolks
6 tablespoonfuls Sugar
8 ounces Marsala
Beat the eggs and sugar thoroughly together, stir in
the marsala, and cook in a double boiler, stirring con­
stantly until the mixture thickens. Serve hot in small
goblets or saucer champagne glasses and eat with a
spoon. Sherry (an oloroso or other sweet type) or a
madeira is frequently used in place of the marsala.
The French recipes frequently call for pouring the
cooked mixture into the beaten egg whites before
serving.
The Sabayon is also frequently used as a sauce
poured over a dessert pudding.

SYLLABUB
1 part Sherry (sweet)
1 part Milk
1 part Heavy Cream
Sugar to taste
346
Beat all together and serve in saucer champagne
glasses. Port or Madeira may be used in place of the
sherry. Some recipes call for the addition of cognac
or Jamaica rum. Other recipes omit the milk and use
from 1/4 to 1/2 as much lemon juice in place of the
milk.
A small piece of cake soaked in the wine used for
the drink is sometimes placed in the glass and the
Syllabub is poured over it as a dessert dish.

347
CONCLUSION

Is there anything else you would like to know about

mixed drinks? I have described at some length all
manner of mixed drinks—short drinks and tall drinks,
hot drinks and cold drinks, temperance drinks and
old-soak drinks, party drinks and individual drinks,
special-occasion drinks and everyday drinks, sour
drinks and sweet drinks, morning drinks and evening
drinks, pre-prandial drinks and post-prandial drinks,
good drinks, bad drinks, and indifferent drinks.
While I have given the recipes for some seven or
eight hundred different drinks, this book is not in­
tended as a recipe book. If you use it as a recipe book
it will have wholly failed of its purpose. There are hun­
dreds—perhaps thousands—of drink recipes that are
not included and new drinks are being invented by
someone, somewhere, every day. It would be a hope­
less task to try to catch up with them all and include
them in any one book or series of books. Furthermore,
it would be a foolish and useless task.
The recipes herein contained are intended solely
as specimens of what others have done, in order that
you may examine them, analyze them, criticize them,
and improve upon them. Whether it be a cocktail, a
Highball, a Rickey, a Daisy, a Punch, or what not,
348
pick out a recipe that strikes you as being well thought
out. Try it. If you find it too sweet, cut down on the
sugar or liqueur. If you find it too sour, cut down on
the lime or lemon juice. If you find it too sharply
alcoholic, add a dash of bitters. Play around with it
until you find the proportion that just suits your taste.
Learn to "roll your own" and then throw away all
your recipe books—including this one!
One of the many things that I have always admired
about Chinese cookery—the most perfect cooking in
the world—is that a good Chinese cook will take just
one meat—such as pork—-and half a dozen vegetables
and then, with his various sauces—Soyu, Ho Yeou,
Ham Har, etc.—he will feed you for a week and
never give you the same dish twice. You should be able
to do the same thing with drinks. Your base liquor
—such as gin or rum—takes the place of the meat;
your syrups and liqueurs take the place of the vege­
tables; and your citrus juices, vermouths, and bitters
take the place of the sauces. With these few ingredi­
ents—including only one base liquor—you should be
able to roll out drinks by the hundred, all different—
cocktails, Highballs, Collinses, Fizzes, Rickeys, Daisies,
Fixes, Cobblers, Coolers, Slings, Toddies, and so on,
and on, and on.
You will find that not only the cocktail but many
others, such as the Rickey and the Daisy, are delicious
drinks. However, I believe you will also find that the
most useful, the most flexible, and the best all-around
drink of them all is that great American institution,
the COCKTAIL.
As a final word, therefore, may I paraphrase the
Artillery song,
"Let the cocktails keep rolling along."
"KEEP T H E M ROLLING"

349
INDEX
Aalborg Taffel Akvavit, 60
ABBEY, 156
Abbot's bitters, 79
Abricotine, 179
Absinthe, 62
ABSINTHE, ITALIAN STYLE, 2 1 1
ABSINTHE COCKTAIL, 210
ABSINTHE DRIP, 2 1 0
ABSINTHE FRAPPE, 210
Absorption method of avoiding
drunkenness, 196
ACACIA, 2 1 1
ADAM & EVE, 2 1 1
ADIRONDACK, 126
ADMIRAL, 2 1 1
ADONIS, 175
Advocaat, 179
AFFINITY, 167
After-dinner cordials, 2 1 2
Age, varying effect with dif­
ferent whiskies, 42
Age as a criterion of quality:
in cognac, 50, 51
in gin, 30
in whisky, 39, 41
AIRMAIL, 125, 130
Akvavit. See Aquavit
AKVAVIT & BITTERS, 212
ALABAMA FIZZ, 284
ALAMAGOOZLUM, 212
ALASKA, 213
ALBEMARLE FIZZ, 284
Alcohol. See also Liquor
Alcohol, as a stimulant, 198
essential to life, 197
medical uses. See Liquor
physiological effects. See
Liquor
ALE POSSET, 332
ALE SANGAREE, 297
ALEXANDER, 3, 98, 213
ALHAMBRA ROYAL, 338
Alka-Seltzer, 343
Allasch Doppelt Kümmel, 77,
179. 185
Allergies to liquor, 24, 194,
202
ALLIES, 154
ALPINE GLOW, 214
AMBER DREAM, 155
AMERICAN BEAUTY, 2 1 4
AMERICAN BEAUTY PUNCH, 214,
305
American brandies, 55, 207
AMERICAN FLAG, 214
American gins, inferior to Eng­
lish, 29
American Medical Association,
vii
351
American whisky, distin­
guished from Scotch, 41
Amer Picon, 80, 214
Amontillado sherry, 71
Amoroso sherry, 72
AMOUR, 176
Ancient Bottle gin. See Sea­
gram's yellow gin
ANGEL'S DREAM, 2 1 4
ANGEL'S KISS, 215
ANGEL'S TIT, 2 1 5
ANGLER'S, 2 1 5
Angostura bitters, 79
ANGOSTURA HIGHBALL, 270
Anis, 179, 185
Anisette, 179
ANNIVERSARY, 170
Aperitif Rossi, 70
Aperitif wines, effect of shak­
ing, 66
how to serve, 65
APPENDICITIS, 124
APPENDICITIS DE LUXE, 124
APPETIZER, 2 1 5
APPLE BLOSSOM, 174
APPLE BLOSSOM FIZZ, 286
APPLE BLOW FIZZ, 286
Apple brandy, 49, 56. See also
Calvados, Applejack
APPLE CAR, 1 1 2 , 121
APPLECART, 1 1 2
APPLE COLLINS, 280
Applejack, 56
Applejack, as a cocktail base,
56
how made, 57
APPLEJACK BUCK, 275
APPLEJACK COBBLER, 293
APPLEJACK COCKTAIL, 173
Applejack cocktails, aromatic
type, 173
APPLEJACK COOLER, 296
APPLEJACK CRUSTA, 224
APPLEJACK DAISY, 288
APPLEJACK DYNAMITE, 146
APPLEJACK FIX, 288
APPLEJACK FIZZ, 286
APPLEJACK FLIP, 231
APPLEJACK HIGHBALL, 270
352
APPLEJACK JULEP, 290
APPLEJACK MANHATTAN, 106,
174
APPLEJACK MILK PUNCH, 303
APPLEJACK OLD-FASHIONED,
109, 174
APPLEJACK PUNCH, 3 1 7
APPLEJACK RABBIT, 146
APPLEJACK RICKEY, 277
APPLEJACK SANGAREE, 298
APPLEJACK SHAKE, 252
APPLEJACK SLING, 299
APPLEJACK SMASH, 255
APPLEJACK SOUR, II3n, 121
Applejack Sour, cocktails based
on, 1 1 3 , 146
APPLEJACK SWIZZLE, 324
APPLEJACK TODDY, 300
APRICOT BOWL, 3 1 8
Apricot brandy, 49, 58
APRICOT BRANDY COCKTAIL, 215
APRICOT BRANDY SOUR, 122
APRICOT COCKTAIL, 215
APRICOT DELIGHT, 2 15
Apricot liqueur, 179
APRICOT RICKEY, 276, 277
Apry, 179
Aquavit, 59
as a cocktail base, 60
brands of, 60
how made, 59
how served, 60
Aqua vitae, 48
AQUAVIT SOUR, 122
AQUITANIA, 2 1 5
Arak rum, 44
'ARF & 'ARF, 307
Armagnac, 53
ARMY, I05n
Aromatic cocktails, discussion
of, 149
Aromatic wine cocktails, 174
Aromatic wines as modifying
agents, 6, 65, 149
AROUND THE WORLD, 216
Arrack, 64
Arrack Punsch, 44, 77, 179
Artemisia, 63
ARTILLERY PUNCH, 316
AUNT EMILY, 216
Austin, Nichols & Co. rum, 48
AVIATION, 125
B. & B., 212
BACARDI COCKTAIL, 109
BACARDI FLYER, 216
Bacardi rum, 45, 46, 207
BAHIA, 176
BALAKLAVA NECTAR, 320
BALD HEAD, 153
BALTIMORE BRACER, 216
BALTIMORE EGG NOG, 329
BAMBOO COCKTAIL, 5, 176
Barack Palinka, 58
Barbados rum, 44
brands of, 48
BARBADOS RUM COCKTAIL, 47
BARBARY COAST, 161
Bardinet liqueurs, 77
Bardinet rum, 48
Bar glasses, 18
Barley malt, use in making
whisky, 31
BARRY, 156
Bar spoons, 21
Basel kirsches, 58
Basic principles, 1
restated, 1 1 6 , 129
Batavia Arak. See Arak rum
Bathtub gin, 2, 24, 26
BEACHCOMBER, 125, 130
BEADLESTON, 168
BEAUX ARTS, 154
Beer liver, 191
BEER SANGAREE, 297
BEE'S KNEES, 3, 124
Bellows' liqueur rum, 46
Bellows' rums, 46, 47
Benedictine, 27, 76, 77, 179
Benedictine & Brandy, 212
Benedictine Society liqueurs,
77, 179
BERMUDA, 170
BERMUDA ROSE, 170
Berreteaga rum, 48
BETSY FLANAGAN, 216
BETSY ROSS, 143
BETWEEN THE SHEETS, 144
BIARRITZ, 2l6
BIJOU, 155
Bishop, definition of, 335
distinguished from Wassail
Bowl, 335
BISHOP A LA PRUSSE, 336
BISHOP COCKTAIL, 161
BISHOPS, 335
BISMARK, 30811
Bisquit Dubouche cognac, 53
Bitters, as a modifying agent,
6, 149, 150, 151
brands of, 78-80, 176П
how made, 78
Internal Revenue tax on, 78
medicinal and non-medici­
nal, 78
rule for using, 6, 7
BITTERSWEET, 216
Blackberry brandy, 58
BLACKBERRY BRANDY SOUR. See
BLACKOUT
Blackberry liqueur, 180
BLACKOUT, 2 1 7
BLACKSTONE COOLER, 296
BLACK STRIPE, 217, 336
BLACK VELVET, 308
Blandy Madeira, 73
Blended cognacs, 52
Blended whiskies, American,
meaning of, 36, 37
Blended whiskies, Scotch,
meaning of, 32
BLOND NEGRESS, 2 1 4
BLOSSOM, 217
BLUE ANGEL PUNCH, 323
BLUE BELL, 168
BLUE BIRD, 126
BLUE BLAZER, 339, 340
BLUE DEVIL, 126
BLUE MOON, 126
BLUE SKIES, 2 1 7
BOBBIE BURNS, 167
Bohack carbonated beverages,
88
Bokers bitters, 78
BOLERO, 133
BOLO, 2 1 7
Bols Geneva gin, 25, 26
353
Bolskummel. See Kummel
Bols liqueurs, 77
BOMBAY, 171
Bonded vs. blended whiskies,
34
BOOMERANG, 155
Boonekamp bitters, 79
Booth's London gin, 27, 207.
See also House of Lords
gin
BOSTON COOLER, 296
Bottle openers, 19
BOULEVARD, 163
Bourbon, 35. See also Whisky
BOURBON & EGG, 253
BOURBON BUCK, 275n
BOURBON COCKTAIL, 137, 160
BOURBON COLLINS, 280
BOURBON HIGHBALL, 270
BOURBON RICKEY, 277
BOURBON SMASH, 255
Bourbon whisky, brands of, 35
distinguished from rye, 35
how made, 35
BOWLS, FRUIT, 3 1 8
BOYD, 2 l 8
BRACERS. See Picker-uppers
BRADFORD, 100n
BRAINSTORM, 2 1 8
Brands of liquor, basis for
recommendations, vii, 27
Brandy, 48. See also Armagnac,
Apple brandy, Cherry
brandy, Cognac, etc.
Brandy, distinguished from a
liqueur, 75
how made, 49
ritual for drinking, 15
BRANDY ALEXANDER, 173, 2 14
BRANDY & EGG, 1 5 , 253
BRANDY BUCK, 275
BRANDY CHAMPERELLE, 220
BRANDY COBBLER, 293
BRANDY COCKTAIL (aromatic
type), 169
BRANDY COCKTAIL (sour type),
142
Brandy cocktails (aromatic
type), 169
354
BRANDY COLLINS, 280
BRANDY COOLER, 296
BRANDY CRUSTA, 224
BRANDY DAISY, 288
BRANDY FIX, 288
BRANDY FIZZ, 286
BRANDY FLIP, 231
BRANDY HIGHBALL, 270
Brandy inhaler, 15
BRANDY JULEP, 290
BRANDY MANHATTAN, 106
BRANDY MILK PUNCH, 303
BRANDY OLD-FASHIONED, 109,
169
BRANDY PUFF, 304
BRANDY PUNCH, 304, 3 1 8
BRANDY SANGAREE, 298
BRANDY SCAFFA, 251
BRANDY SHAKE, 252
BRANDY SLING, 299
BRANDY SMASH, 255
BRANDY SNIFTER, 15
BRANDY SOUR, 121
Brandy Sour, cocktails based
on, 141
BRANDY SWIZZLE, 324
BRANDY TODDY, 300
BRANDY ZOOM, 265
BRAZIL, 176
Briand cognac, 53
Bristol cream sherry, 72
Bromo-Seltzer, 343
BRONX, PINEAPPLE, 157
BRONX, SILVER, 157
BRONX COCKTAIL, 8, 156
BROOKLYN, 157, 162
BROWN BETTY, 327
Brunnen kirsch, 58
Buck, definition of, 274, 275
distinguished from a high­
ball, 274, 275
BUCKS, 274, 275
BUGHOUSE, 218
BULLFROG, 218
BULL'S MILK, 303n
Burdon's sherry, 72
BURGUNDY CUP, 321
BURGUNDY SANGAREE, 298
Burke's Irish, 34
Burnett's London gin, 27
BURRA PEG, 219
BUSTER BROWN, 139
BUTTERED RUM. See Hot But­
tered Rum
B.V.D., 174
Byass. See Gonzales Byass
Byrrh, 69
BYRRH-CASSIS, 271
BYRRH-CITRON, 272
BYRRH COCKTAIL (gin), 177
BYRRH COCKTAIL (rye), 177
BYRRH COOLER, 297
BYRRH HIGHBALL, 270
CAFÉ BRULOT, 339
CAFÉ DIABLE, 339
CAFÉ KIRSCH, 338
CAFÉ ROYAL, 338
CAFÉ ROYAL, FRAPPÉED, 232
California brandy, 207
Caloric Punsch, 180
Calvados, 56-57
Calvet cognac, 53
Campari bitters, 79
Canada Dry carbonated bever­
ages, 88
Canadian Club whisky, 35
CANADIAN COCKTAIL, 218
CANADIAN COLLINS, 280
CANADIAN GRENADIER, 272
Canadian whisky, 33
brands of, 35
CAPITOL, 163
CAPTAIN'S BLOOD, 2 1 8
Carbonated beverages, brands
of, 88
essential characteristics, 87
how to stir, 93, 282
use of, 87, 269, 273
Carbonated water. See Club
soda
CARDINAL, 336
CARDINAL PUNCH, 3 1 7
CARIOCA, 219
Carlshamm's Punsch, 180
Carta blanca rum, 46
Carta oro rum, 46
CASINO, 125
CASSISCO, 271
CASSIS-KIRSCH, 271
Caussade. See Marquis de
Caussade
Cazalis Prat & Cie., 67
Cazapra vermouth, 67
Certosa, 180
Champagne as a picker-upper,
343
CHAMPAGNE COBBLER, 294
CHAMPAGNE COCKTAIL, 219
Champagne glasses, 15
CHAMPAGNE PUNCH, 3 1 9
Champagne wine, 50
CHAMPERELLE, 219
Charente River, 49
Charleston rum, 48
Charley's Royal Reserve rum,
47
CHARLIE CHAPLIN, 220
CHARLOTTE RUSSE, 220
Chartreuse, 27, 77, 180
Chateau Labarthe armagnac,
Chateau Laressingle armagnac,
54
CHAUNCEY OLCOTT, 220
CHERBOURG, 163
CHERRY BLOSSOM, 221
Cherry brandy, 49, 58
Cherry Heering, 77, 181
Cherry liqueur, 77, 181
CHERRY RICKEY, 277
CHICAGO, 172
Chilling glasses, 1 1 , 96
CHINESE COCKTAIL, 221
Chinese cookery, 349
CHOCOLATE FLIP, 231
CHOCOLATE SOLDIER, 221
CHURCHILL, 168
CIDER BISHOP, 336
Cinzano vermouth, 66, 68
Cirrhosis, not caused by liquor,
191
Citron, definition of, 272n
Citrus juices, rules for using,
7,80-82, 1 1 8
CLARET COBBLER, 294
CLARET CUP, 321
355
CLARET FLIP, 231
CLARET SANGAREE, 298
CLASSIC, 221
C.L.O.C., 181
CLOVER CLUB, 27, 127
CLOVER LEAF, 128
CLUB COCKTAIL, 221
Club soda, brands of, 88
essential characteristics, 87
use in highballs, 87, 269,
273-74
Coasters, 14, 2 1 , 290
Coates London gin, 27
Cobbler, definition of, 293
distinguished from Fixes &
Daisies, 293
COBBLERS, 293
recipes for, 293-94
Coca-Cola, use in tall drinks,
269, 310
Cockade rum, 48
Cocktail, definition of, 3, 4
essential attributes of, 3-4
ingredients of, vi-viii, 4-9,
116-18
Cocktail base, 4, 5
Cocktail glasses, 11
size of, 11
stemless, 11
thickness of, 11
Cocktail Hour Southern Nec­
tar, 59
Cocktail shakers, 17
Cocktails, rules for making, 3 -
9, 1 1 6 - 1 8 , 129, 149
six basic, 99
types of, 5
Cocktails based on the Apple­
jack Sour. See Applejack
Sour
Cocktails based on the Brandy
Sour. See Brandy Sour
Cocktails based on the Gin
Sour. See Gin Sour
Cocktails based on the Rum
Sour. See Rum Sour
Cocktails based on the Whisky
Sour. See Whisky Sour
356
Coconut juice, how prepared,
82
Coffee as a picker-upper, 344
COFFEE COBBLER, 294
COFFEE COCKTAIL, 143
Coffee drinks, 338
COFFEE FLIP, 231
Cognac, age of, 50-52
as a cocktail base, 52
best of brandies, 49
brands of, 53
how made, 49-50
Cognac and other grape bran­
dies, 48
Cognac district, 49
Cognac labels, 51
COGNAC ZOOM, 265
Cointreau, 77, 181
Cointreau, S.A.R.L. liqueurs,
77
Collins, definition of, 278
distinguished from a Fizz,
281-82
precautions in making, 279
Collins, Tom, John, & others,
278-80
COLLINSES, 279
Collins glasses, 16
COLONEL COLLINS, 280
Coloring agents, 4, 8
COMMANDO, 222
COMMODORE, 222
Condom, 54
CONNECTICUT, 173
Connoisseur's corkscrew, 19
CONTINENTAL, 222
Continuous stills, 32
Cookery, use of wines & liquors,
345-46
Cooler, definition of, 295
distinguished from a Horse's
Neck, 294
COOLERS, 294
COOPERSTOWN, 155
Cordial glasses, 14
Cordial Medoc, 77, 181
Cordials. See Liqueurs
Cork Distillers, 34
Corkscrews, 19
CORONATION, 223
COSSACK, 223
COUNTRY CLUB, 160, 223
COUNTRY CLUB COOLER, 296
COUNTRY GENTLEMAN, 148
COURTNEY RILEY COOPER, 170
Courvoisier cognac, 53, 207
Cream, as a modifying agent,
6 CZARINA, 225
blending with liquor, 85
rule for using, 7
Cream sherry, 71
Creamy drinks, danger of, 7,
97
Crème d'Ananas, 181
use in daiquiris, 1 1 0
Crème de Bananes, 181
Crème de Cacao, 181
Crème de Café, 181
Crème de Cassis, 182
Crème de Fraises, 182
Crème de Framboise, 182
Crème de Menthe, 182
Crème de Moka, 182
Crème de Noyaux, 182
Crème de Rose, 182
Crème de Thé, 182
Crème de Vanille, 182
Crème de Violette, 182
Crème Yvette, 182
CREOLE PUNCH, 306
CRESCENT CITY, 224
CRIMSON FIZZ, 284
CRUSTAS, 224
Crusted port, 74
Cruzan rum, 48
CUBAINE, 133
CUBA LIBRE, 310
CUBAN, 224
CUBAN APRICOT, 133
CUBAN DREAM, 225
CUBAN PEACH, 133
Cuban rum, 43, 44
brands of, 46
Cucumber peel, use in punches,
313
Cuervo tequila, 62
Cup, distinguished from a
Punch, 311
CUPS & PUNCHES, 3 1 1
Curasao, 77, 183
blue, 127
CURACAO COCKTAIL, 139
Cusenier aperitifs, 70
Cusenier cognac, 53
Cusenier liqueurs, 77
Cutty Sark Scotch, 207
D. & S., 2 1 2
DAIQUIRI, a Rum Sour, 120,
129
Daiquiri, discussion of, 109
DAIQUIRI, original recipe, 109,
110
Daiquiri Cocktelera rum, 45
DAIQUIRI DE LUXE, 1 1 1
DAIQUIRI GRENADINE, I 11
DAISIES, 287
Daisy, definition of, 287
distinguished from a Cob-
bler, 293
distinguished from a Fix,
287
DAISY PROHIBITION FIX, 289
Damiana, 183
Danish Akvavit, 60
Danziger Goldwasser, 183
Dash, definition of, 21
DAWN, 225
Dazey extractors & crushers, 20
DEAUVILLE, 147-48
DEEP SEA, 154
Defrosting refrigerators, 86-87
DeKuyper's bitters, 79
DeKuyper's liqueurs, 77
DELMONICO COCKTAIL, 170
Delmonico glasses, 16
DELMONICO SPECIAL, 170
Demerara rum, 44, 47
DEMI-VIRGIN, 226
Deo Optimo Maximo, 180
DEPTH BOMB, 149
DERBY, 226
DERBY FIZZ, 286
DEVIL, 143
DIAMOND FIZZ, 284
DIKI-DIKI, 227
357
DIPLOMAT, 175 Eau de vie, 48
Ditta Guiseppe Alberti Eau de Vie de Danzig, 183
liqueurs, 77 Eau de vie de marc, 54
DIVAN, 227 EAU DE VIE DE MARC SOUR, 1 2 2
DIXIE, 140 Eau d'Or, 183
DOCTOR, 227 EGG LEMONADE, 302
DOG'S NOSE, 308 Egg Nog as a picker-upper,
DOLORES, 227 344
D.O.M., meaning of, 179 EGG NOGS. See Nogs
Domecq. See Pedro Domecq EGG POSSET, 3 3 3
DOROTHY, 228 Egg powder, 85
DOROTHY GISH, 228 Eggs, as a modifying agent, 6
DOUBLE RAINBOW, 228 blending with liquor, 85
DOUGLAS FAIRBANKS, 228 rule for using, 7
Douro River valley, 73 Eggs & cream, 6, 85
DRAGOON PUNCH, 317 Egg whites, folding into mix­
Drambuie, 76, 77, 183 tures, 328
Drambuie & Scotch, 212 use of salt in beating, 328
Drambuie Liqueur Co., 77 EL PRESIDENTE, 109, 157, 158
DREAM, 225 EMERALD, 143
Drinking. See Drunkenness, EMERALD STAR, 229
Liquor ENGLISH BISHOP, 335
Drinking, relief from effects of, ENGLISH COBBLER, 294
342-43 English gin. See London gin
Drinks, effect of mixing, 199 EPICUREAN, 229
Drop, definition of, 21 Equipment for the bar, 10
Drunkenness, effect of mixing ERIN, 229
drinks, 199 ETHIOPIA, 229
guarding against, 195 Ets. Marnier liqueurs, 77
Drunkenness & gluttony, 194 EXPORT-CASSIS, 271
Dry Sack, 72 EXPRESS, 167
DRY STINGER, 144 Extrait d'Absinthe, 63
Dubonnet, 69 EYE-OPENERS. See Picker-uppers
DUBONNET-CASSIS, 271
DUBONNET-CITRON, 272 FAIVRE'S POUSSE-CAFE, 247
DUBONNET COCKTAIL, 177 Falernum, 183
DUBONNET COOLER, 297 use in Daiquiris, 110
DUBONNET HIGHBALL, 270 FARMER'S DAUGHTER, 148
DUBONNET RICKEY, 277 FARMER'S WIFE, I 74
Duff Gordon sherry, 72 FEDORA, 230
DUMMY DAISY, 289 Fernet bitters, 79
DUPLEX, 175 FERNET COCKTAIL, 230
Dutch gin. See Holland gin FERNET HIGHBALL, 270
Dykaree. See Daiquiri FERNET MENTHE, 230
FIBBER McGEE, 230
EAGLE, 229 Field, Son & Co.'s bitters, 79
EAST INDIA, 171 Fine champagne, 49, 52, 53
Eau de Fleurs d'Oranger. See Fino sherry, 71
Orange Flower Water Fior d'Alpe, 184

358
Fiori Alpini, 184
FISH HOUSE PUNCH, 3 1 5
Fix, definition of, 287
distinguished from a Cob-
bler, 293
distinguished from a Daisy,
287
FIXES, 287
Fizz, definition of, 2 8 1 - 8 3
distinguished from a Collins,
281-82
FIZZES, 281
FLAMINGO, 230
Flavoring agents, 4, 8
FLIPS, 230
Flora della Alpi, 184
FLORIDA, 126, 231
FLORIDA PUNCH, 305
FLYING DUTCHMAN, 103
Fockink's Geneva gin, 25
Fockink's liqueurs, 77
Fockink Tavern, 25n
Food & drink, 345
FOOLISH VIRGIN, 261
FORBIDDEN FRUIT COCKTAIL,
231
Forbidden Fruit liqueur, 27,
184
Fortified wines, 70
FORTY-SEVEN, 1 3 5
Framboise, 49, 184
Framboisette, 184
FRANKLIN FARMS EGG NOG, 329
FRAPPÉED CAFÉ ROYAL, 232
Frappéed cordials, 2 1 2 , 231
FRAPPÉS, 231
Freezomint. See Crème de
Menthe
French kirsch, 58
FRENCH, 7 5 , 3 1 0
FRESCO, 232
FRESH FRUIT SHRUBS, 326
FRIAR, 232
FRISCO, 140
Frosting glasses, 96, 1 1 3
FROZEN COCKTAILS, 232
FROZEN DAIQUIRI, 232
FROZEN HONEYMOON, 233
FROZEN MIAMI, 233
FROZEN ORANGE BLOSSOM, 233
FROZEN RED LION, 233
FROZEN RHETT BUTLER, 233
FROZEN SCARLETT O'HARA, 233
FROZEN SNOW WHITE, 233
FROZEN SOUTHERN COMFORT
SOUR, 233
FROZEN STINGER, 233
FRUIT BOWLS, 3 1 8
FRUIT BRANDY HIGHBALLS, 270
Fruit flavors, blending for
punches, 3 1 3
Fruit juices, as modifying
agents, 6
canned, 81
distinguished from fruit
syrups, 83
fermentation of, 81
Fruit juices & syrups, 80
FRUIT SHRUBS, 326
Fruit syrups, 83
blending with liquor, 84
canned, 83
distinguished from fruit
juices, 83
Fulstrength Scotch, 34, 207
FU MANCHU, 233
Funchal, Madeira from, 73
Fundador brandy, 56
FUTURITY, 233
GABY DES LYS, 233
Garnier liqueurs, 77
Gautier cognac, 53
Geneva gin. See Holland gin
Get cognac, 53
Get liqueurs, 77
GIBSON COCKTAIL, 101
GIBSON DE LUXE, 101
Gibson whisky, 35
Gilbey London gin, 27
Gilka kummel. See Kümmel
GIMLET, 27, 126
Gin, a misunderstood liquor,
24
as a cocktail base, 24
as a medicinal agent, 24, 25
brands of, 25, 27
how made, 25, 26
359
Gin—Cont'd illustrations, 12—13
importance of aging, 27, 30 use of proper, 96
types of, 24, 26, 27 GLOGG, 340
GIN BUCK, 275 GLOOM CHASER, 1 5 4
GIN COBBLER, 293 GLOOM LIFTER, 233
GIN COCKTAIL, 1 5 1 GLOOM RAISER, 154
Gin cocktails, aromatic type, Gloria Mundi Madeira, 73
150 GLUHWEIN, 334
GIN COOLER, 296 Goddard rum, 48
GIN CRUSTA, 224 GOLDEN DAWN, 226
GIN DAISY, 288 GOLDEN DAWN PUNCH, 323
GIN FIX, 288 GOLDEN FIZZ, 283
GIN FIZZ, 2 8 1 , 283 GOLDEN GLOW, 1 5 5
GIN FLIP, 231 GOLDEN MARTINI, 101n
Ginger, preserved, as a deco­ GOLDEN SLIPPER, 234
ration, 1 3 5 GOLDEN SPIKE, 109n
Ginger ale, brands of, 88 Gold label rum. See Carta oro
essential characteristics, 8 7 - Goldwasser. See Danziger
88 Goldwasser
use in highballs, 4 1 , 87-88, Gomme syrup. See Sugar
269,273-74 syrup
Ginger beer, 41 Gonzales Byass brandy, 56
GIN HIGHBALL, 270 Gonzales Byass sherry, 72
GIN JULEP, 290 GORDON, 102
GIN MILK PUNCH, 303 Gordon London gin, 27, 207
GIN MINT PUNCH, 305 Government House rum, 48,
GIN 'N' BITTERS, 1 5 1 207
GIN 'N' IT, 152 GRAND DUCHESS, 234
GIN 'N' ROCKS, 1 5 3 Grande Champagne, 49
GIN 'N' SIN, 152 Grand Marnier, 27, 28, 76,
GIN 'N' TONIC, 152, 281 77, 184
GIN OLD-FASHIONED, 109 GRAND ROYAL, 284
GIN PAHIT, 152 GRAND SLAM, 234
GIN PUFF, 304 GRAPEFRUIT BLOSSOM, 234
GIN RICKEY, 276, 277 GRAPE JUICE RICKEY, 276
GIN SANGAREE, 298 Grappa, 54-55
GIN SHAKE, 252 Greek brandies, 55-56
GIN SLING, 299 GREENBACK, 127
GIN SMASH, 255 GREEN BRIAR, 168
GIN SOUR, 120 GREENBRIER, 156
Gin Sour, cocktails based on GREEN FIZZ, 284
122 GREEN LEMONADE, 301
GIN SPIDER, 271 GREENWICH, 234
GIN SQUIRT, 309 Grenadine, 84, 185
GIN SWIZZLE, 324 GRENADINE RICKEY, 277
GIN TODDY, 300 GRETA GARBO, 227
GIN ZOOM, 266 Grisdale carbonated beverages,
Glassware, gimmicks, & gadg­ 88
ets, 10 Grog, definition of, 336
360
GROGS, 336
Guckenheimer whisky, 35
Gum syrup. See Sugar syrup
GYPSY QUEEN, 234
HABITANT, 164
Haig & Haig Pinch Bottle, 34,
207
"Hair of the dog," 344
Haitian rum, 44, 48
brands of, 48
HAITIAN RUM COCKTAIL, 47
HALF & HALF, 307
HALSTEAD STREET VELVET, 308
HARMONY, 145
HARVARD, 170
HARVARD COOLER, 296
HAVANA, 158
HAVANA CLUB COCKTAIL, 158
HAVANA CLUB RUM, 46, 207
HAWTHORNE, 164
Heering, Peter, liqueurs, 77
HELEN TWELVETREES, 235
Hennessy cognac, 207
Herbs, use in punches, 3 1 4
Herbsaint, 63
Highball, definition of, 268
distinguished from a Buck,
269, 274-75
proportions, 269-70
Highball glasses, 16
HIGHBALLS, 268
Highballs, plain water not to
be used, 273-74
HIGH HAT, 235
HIGHLAND, 167
HIGHLAND FLING, 167
Highland Nectar Scotch, 34
Himbergeist, 49, 58
HOFFMAN HOUSE FIZZ, 284
Hoffman's carbonated bever­
ages, 88
HOLE IN ONE, 168
Holland gin, 24—26
as a cocktail base, 25, 235
brands of, 25
HOLLAND GIN & BITTERS, 235
HOLLAND GIN COCKTAIL, 235
HOLLAND'S PRIDE, 236
Holloway London gin, 27
Holloway's bitters, 79
HONEY BEE, 125, 130
HONEYMOON, 148
HONEYSUCKLE, I 25, 130
HONG KONG, 155
HOPTOAD, 218
HORSE'S NECK, 272
Horse's Neck, distinguished
from a Cooler, 294
HORSE'S NECK, PLAIN, 273
HORSE'S NECK WITH A KICK,
273
Hostetters bitters, 78
HOT BUTTERED RUM, 337
HOT DRINKS, 333
HOT EGG NOGS, 331
HOT GROG, 336
HOT MILK PUNCHES, 303
HOT SANGAREES, 298
HOT SPICED RUM, 337
House of Lords gin, 27, 207
Hulstkamp Geneva gin, 25
HURRICANE, 236
Ice, as a cocktail ingredient,
85-86
buckets, 20—21
cracked, crushed, & in cubes,
93-95
picks, 20
purity of, 85-86
quantity in highballs, 93
shavers, 20
tongs, 20-21
use in Punch bowl, 3 1 3
use of, 85-86, 95
IDEAL, 236
INDIVIDUAL EGG NOG, 328
INDIVIDUAL PUNCHES, 302
Insulation method of guarding
against drunkenness, 196—
97
Internal Revenue taxes, on bit­
ters, 78
on liquors, 28, 38, 45
INTERNATIONAL, 103
IRISH COLLINS, 280
IRISH HIGHBALL, 270
361
IRISH MILK PUNCH, 303
IRISH RICKEY, 277
IRISH SLING, 299
IRISH TODDY, 300
Irish whisky, brands of, 34
distinguished from Scotch,
33
how made, 33
use of potatoes in, 3 1 , 5gn
ISLE OF PINES, 236
JACK COLLINS, 280
JACK IN THE BOX, 147
JACK ROSE, discussion of, 1 1 3 ,
121
JACK ROSE DE LUXE, 1 1 3
Jacquin liqueurs, 78
Jamaica rum, 43, 44, 45, 46
brands of, 46
in tea & coffee, 45
James E. Pepper bourbon, 35,
207
JAPANESE, 169
Jarzebiak, 61
Jerez, sherry from, 70
JERSEY CITY, 147
Jersey Lightning, 30, 57
JERSEY SOUR, 113n
Jigger, definition of, 22
use of, 89
JITTERS, 236
JOCKEY CLUB, 236
John Begg Liqueur Scotch, 34,
207
JOHN COLLINS, 280
John Jameson Irish, 34
JOHN McCLAIN, 166
Johnnie Walker Black Label
Scotch, 34, 207
Johnnie Walker Red Label
Scotch, 207
Jourde liqueurs, 77
Judging liquor, 204
Juice extractors, 20
JULEPNO. 1 (author's favorite),
291
JULEP NO. 2 (time consumer),
292
JULEP NO. 3 (faint flavor), 292
362
JULEPS, 289
Juleps, disputed questions, 289
principles to be observed,
289-91
rum or no rum, 292
Jules Robin cognac, 53
KATINKA, 236
KENTUCKY COLONEL, 237
KENTUCKY EGG NOG, 329
Kentucky Sunshine whisky, 35
Kentucky Tavern whisky, 35
KIDDIE CAR, 1 1 2 , 121
King's Ransom Scotch, 34
KINGSTON, 237
Kirsch, 49, 58
KIRSCH HIGHBALL, 270
KIRSCH SOUR, 122
Kirschwasser. See Kirsch
KIRSCH ZOOM, 266
Kirsebaer, 58
KLONDIKE, 174
KNICKEBEIN, 237
KNICKERBOCKER, 134
KNIGHT, 145
Korkmaster, 19
Kummel, 77, 185
KUMQUAT LIMEADE, 302
Kumquats, use in place of
limes, 278
L'Abbaye de Cenon liqueurs,
77
LADY ALEXANDER, 238
LAFAYETTE, 161
LAFAYETTE PUNCH, 3 1 9
LALLA ROOKH, 3 1 0
Lambert rum, 48
LAMBS CLUB, 155
LARCHMONT, 134
Large's rye. See Monongahela
Leacock & Co. Madeira, 73
LEMONADE (plain), 300
LEMONADE (with wines & li­
queurs), 301
Lemonades, Limeades, &
Orangeades, 300
Lemonades, party service, 302
Lemon bitters, 78
Lemon Hart Liqueur rum, 46
Lemon Hart rums, 46, 47
LEMON ICE PUNCH, 322
Lemon juice. See also Citrus
juices, Fruit juices
Lemon juice, synthetic substi­
tutes, 81
LEMON-ORANGEADE, 301
Lemon peel, use of, 95, 103П
LEMON-RUM SHRUB, 325
Leroux liqueurs, 78
Levert & Co. Genever gin, 25
LEVIATHAN 477, 238
LIBERTY, 238
Lightbourn's rum, 48
LILLY, 236
LIMEADE, 277, 301
Lime bitters, 78
LIME-LEMONADE, 301
LIME-ORANGEADE, 301
Lime peel, use of, 95
LIME RICKEY, 277
Limes, Lemons, & Liquors, 23
Limoges forest, oak casks from,
52
Liqueur, distinguished from
brandy, 75
Liqueur d'Anis, 63, 185
Liqueur d'Or. See Danziger
Goldwasser
Liqueur glasses, 14
Liqueur Jaune, 185
LIQUEUR LEMONADES, 301
LIQUEUR RICKEYS, 276-77
Liqueurs, 75, 178
as after-dinner drinks. See
After-dinner cordials
brands of, 77
domestic vs. imported, 76
how made, 75
Liqueur Strega, 77, 185
Liqueur Veritas, 63
Liqueur Verte, 186
Liquor. See also Alcohol
Liquor, as a stimulant, 198
contribution to culture and
progress, 192
effects of overindulgence,
189, 193
effect on body temperature,
192
fattening effects of, 199
gauging one's capacity for,
195
how to judge, 204
medicinal uses of, 189-90
properly used, not harmful,
189
use & abuse of, 189
Liquors, distinguishing char­
acteristics, 23
effects of mixing, 199
in cookery, 345-46
LITTLE COLONEL, 239
LITTLE ONE, 135
LOCH LOMOND, 166
Loitens aquavit, 60
London Dock rum, 46
London dry gin, 26—27. See
also London gin
London gin, 26-30
white & yellow, 27
London sweet gin, 26. See also
Old Tom gin
LONE TREE, 156
LONE TREE COOLER, 297
LONG TOM COOLER, 296
LOTUS CLUB SPECIAL, 166
LOVER'S DELIGHT, 239
LUNE DE MIEL, 239
MADAGASCAR, 239
Madeira, classes of, 74
how made, 73-74
MADEIRA & EGG, 253
MADEIRA COBBLER, 294
MADEIRA FLIP, 231
MADEIRA SANGAREE, 298
MADISON AVENUE, 133
MAHARAJA'S BURRA PEG. See
Burra Peg
MAIDEN'S PRAYER, 240
MAISON CHARLES, 132
Malt. See Barley malt
MAMIE'S SISTER, 275n
MAMIE'S SOUTHERN SISTER,
275n
MAMIE TAYLOR, 275
363
MAMMY BOY, 159 Mazarine, 186
MAÑANA, 1 3 1 Mead, 64
Mandarin, Le, 70 Measurements, table of, 21
Mandarine, 186 Measuring, 89
MANDARINE RICKEY, 277 necessity for accuracy, 90,
Mandarinette, 186 91, 119
MANGAREVA, 240 Measuring by eye, 1o, 89
MANHATTAN, discussion of, MECCA, 156
103-05 Medoc. See Cordial Medoc
variations of, 106, 163-64 MEMPHIS, 240
MANHATTAN, DRY, 105 MEMPHIS BELLE, 240
MANHATTAN, MEDIUM, 105 Merito sherry, 72
MANHATTAN, SWEET, 105 MERRY WIDOW, 176
MANHATTAN COOLER, 296 MERRY WIDOW FIZZ, 284
MANHATTAN DE LUXE, 106 Metal cups, 10, 11
Manzanilla sherry, 71 Metaxa brandy, 56
Maraschino, 186 Metheglin, 64
Marasquin, 186 METROPOLITAN, I 71
Marc. See Eau de vie de marc MEXICAN ITCH, 62
MARIANNE, 163 Mexican rum, 44, 48
Marie Brizard cognac, 53 brands of, 48
Marie Brizard Fine Cham- MIAMI, 132
pagne, 52 MIAMI BEACH, 240
Marie Brizard kirsch, 58 MIKADO, 241
Marie Brizard liqueurs, 77 MIKE COLLINS, 280
Marie Brizard rum, 48 Milk. See also Eggs & cream
Marquis de Caussade arma- Milk as a picker-upper, 344
gnac, 54 MILK PUNCH, plain, 303
Marsala, uses of, 74-75 MILK PUNCHES, HOT & COLD,
Marseille, vermouth from, 68 303
MARTINI, 5, 99, 100 MILK SHAKE, 303
variations of, 102, 103, 1 5 4 - MILLION, 241
MILLIONAIRE, 13g
57
MILLIONAIRE ROYAL, 13g
Martini, discussion of, 98, 99
MILLION DOLLAR, 241
the perfect aperitif, 98
MIMOSA, 308
MARTINI, DRY, 100
MINT COOLER, 297
MARTINI, GOLDEN, 1OOn
MINT JULEP. See Juleps
MARTINI, MEDIUM, 100
Mirabelle, 49, 58
MARTINI, SWEET, 101
Miscellaneous tall drinks, 307
Martini & Rossi aperitifs, 70
MISSISSIPPI PUNCH, 305
Martini & Rossi grappa, 55
MISSOURI PUNCH, 322
MARTINI DE LUXE, I0O
MIXED VERMOUTH, 175
Martini pitchers, 18
Mixing drinks, effect of. See
Martinique rum, 44, 48
Drinks
brands of, 48
MARY PICKFORD, 158 Modifiers. See Modifying
MAXIM, 156 agents
MAY BLOSSOM FIZZ, 286 Modifying agents, 4, 6
MAY WINE, 320 classes of, 6

364
 function of, 6
quantity to use, 6-7
MOJITO, 280
Mona rugi, 46
Monastique, 186
MONKEY GLAND, 24.I
Monnet cognac, 52, 5 3 , 207
Monnet 1858 cognac, 52
Monongahela rye, 3 5 , 207
MONTANA, 170
MONTE CARLO, 241
Monticello rye, 35
MONTREAL GIN SOUR, 1 2 3
MOONLIGHT COOLER, 296
MORNING, 242
Morning after, the, 342
MORNING GLORY, 242
MORNING GLORY FIZZ, 285
MORNING ROSE, 130
MORNING STAR, 242
MOSS ROSE, 243
Mount Vernon rye, 3 5 , 207
Muddlers, 20
Mull, definition of, 334
MULLED WINE, 334
MULLS, 334
Myers's rums, 46, 47
Napoleon 1 8 1 1 cognac, 52
NATURAL, 145
NAVY, 105n
Nectar of Tokay, 186
NEGRESSE BLONDE, LA, 2 1 4
Negrita rum, 48
Negus, Col. Francis, 335
Negus, definition of, 334
NEGUS, recipe for, 335
NEVADA, 243
NEW ALGONQUIN, 163
NEW DEAL, 161
New England rum, 44
brands of, 48
NEW ORLEANS, 243
NEW ORLEANS GIN FIZZ, 2 8 4 -
85
NEW ORLEANS PUNCH, 306
NEW YORKER, 138
Nicholson London gin, 27
NOGS, 327
Nogs, hot, 3 3 1
individual and party, 327,
328
rules for making, 328
Noilly Prat vermouth, 67, 68
NOME, 103, 2 1 3
Nomenclature of drinks, 267-
68
Non-alcoholic drinks. See Pro-
hibition Cocktails, Prohi-
bition Highballs, Prohibi-
tion Rickeys, etc.
NORTHSIDE SPECIAL, 309
Norwegian Aquavit, 60
Noyaux. See Crème de Noyaux
Nuyens liqueurs, 77
0GGE, 341
OISEAU BLEU, 126
Ojen, 63
OJEN COCKTAIL, 243
Okelehao, 64
Old Bushmill Irish, 34
Old Curio Scotch, 34
Old Drum rye, 207
OLD ENGLISH WASSAIL, 326
Old-Fashioned, discussion of,
107-08
OLD-FASHIONED, variations of,
108-09
Old-Fashioned cocktails, use
of ice in, 95
use of loaf sugar, 20, 107
OLD-FASHIONED DE LUXE, 107
Old-Fashioned glasses, 1 4
Old Forester bourbon, 35, 207
Old Granddad bourbon, 35
Old Medford rum, 48
Old Mr. Boston bourbon, 207
Old Mr. Boston gin, 207
Old New England rum, 48
Old Overholt rye, 3 5 , 207
OLD PEPPER, 344
OLD PLANTATION, 241
Old Rarity Scotch, 34
Old St. Croix rum, 48
Old Stagg bourbon, 35
Old Taylor bourbon, 35, 207
6
35
Old Tom gin, 26 PEACH RICKEY, 277
as a cocktail base, 26 Pear brandy, 58
OLD VERMONT, 146 Peche, 187
Oloroso sherry, 71 PEDRO COLLINS, 280
OLYMPIA, 243 Pedro Domecq brandy, 56
OLYMPIC, 243 Pedro Domecq sherry, 72
Oorlam Genever gin, 25 Pellison cognac, 53
OPAL, 243 PENDENNIS CLUB EGG NOG, 330
OPALESCENT, 244 PENNSYLVANIA, 245
OPERA, 244 Pepper, James E. See James
Oporto, port from, 73 E. Pepper
ORANGEADE, 301 Peppermint, 187
ORANGE & LIME FIZZ, 285 Peres Chartreux liqueurs, 77
Orange bitters, 78, 79 PERFECT, 100
ORANGE BLOSSOM, 3, 8, 126 Pernod,63
Orange brandy, 49 Peruvian brandy, 55
ORANGE FIZZ, 285 Peter Dawson's Old Curio
Orange Flower Water, 278, Scotch, 34
285 Peychaud bitters, 79
ORANGE ICE PUNCH, 322 use in Scotch cocktails, 167П
Orange liqueur, 187 PICCADILLY, 164
Orange peel, use of, 95 Picker-upper, definition of, 342
ORANGE-RUM SHRUB, 325 PICKER-UPPERS, 342-44
Orgeat, 84, 187 Picker-uppers, futility of, 3 4 2 -
use in Daiquiris, n o 43
ORGEAT COCKTAIL, 244 PICON-CITRON, 272
ORGEAT LEMONADE, 302 PICON COCKTAIL, DRY, 176
ORIENTAL, 213 PICON COCKTAIL, SWEET, I 76
Otard Dupuy cognac, 53 PICON CRE'MAILLERE, 177
Ouzo, 187 PICON-CURACAO, 272
Picon, G., bitters, 80
Paddy's Irish, 34 PICON HIGHBALL, 270
PALISADES, 244 PICON LEMONADE, 302
PALMER, 121 PICON PUNCH, 306
PALMETTO, 244 PIERRE COLLINS, 280
PANAMA, 172, 2 1 4 PIMM'S CUPS, 307
Papaya juice, 82 PINEAPPLE BLOSSOM (gin), 245
PAPAYA SLING, 299 PINEAPPLE BLOSSOM (whisky),
Paper cups, 1 o 141
PARADISE, 245 PINEAPPLE BOWL, 3 1 8
Parfait Amour, 27, 187 PINEAPPLE BRONX, 157
Paring knives & boards, 19 PINEAPPLE FIZZ, 286
PARISIAN, 154 Pineapple juice, how prepared,
PARISIAN POUSSE-CAFE', 247 82
PARK AVENUE, 245 PINK DAIQUIRI. See Daiquiri
Party drinks, 3 1 1 , 340 Grenadine
PEACH BOWL, 3 1 8 PINK GIN, 151n
Peach brandy, 49 PINK LADY, 128
Peach liqueur, 187 PINK LADY FIZZ, 285

366
PINK LEMONADE, 301
PINK PINEAPPLE, 245
Pippermint, 187
Pisco brandy, 55
PLANTERS' PUNCH, 304
Planters' Punch rum, 47
PLAZA, 1 5 5
PLU1E D'OR, 246
Plum brandy, 49, 57
Plymouth gin. See Coates Lon­
don gin
Pointers, pertinent, 89
Pokers, use in making hot
drinks, 334, 3 3 5
POLINCHELLE, 271
POMPIER, 271
Pony, definition of, 21
POOR MAN'S PUNCH, 321
POPE, 336
Port, classes of, 74
how made, 7 3 - 7 4
uses of, 73
PORT & EGG, 253
Portal, Dingwall & Norris rum,
46
PORT COBBLER, 294
PORT FLIP, 231
PORT SANGAREE, 298
PORTER SANGAREE, 297
Posset, definition of, 332
POSSETS, 332
Potatoes, use in manufacture
of liquors, 59n
Potato whisky, 5gn
Pot stills, 32, 50
Pousse-Cafe, glasses, 15
POUSSE-CAFES, 246-47
POUSSE L'AMOUR, 15, 247
Power, John, & Son, 34
PRAIRIE OYSTER, 344
PRESIDENT, AMERICAN; PRESI­
DENT, CUBAN. See El
Presidente
ma
Prima (1 ) Aquavit, 60
PRINCETON, 248
PROHIBITION COCKTAILS, 248
PROHIBITION COOLERS, 297
PROHIBITION DAISIES, 289
PROHIBITION FIXES, 289
PROHIBITION FIZZES, 287
PROHIBITION HIGHBALLS, 270
PROHIBITION PUNCHES, 302-03,
322
PROHIBITION RICKEYS, 277
Proof, as a factor in quality of
liquor, 29-30
definition of, 30
Prune brandy, 49, 57
Prunella, 187
Prunelle, 187
Puerto Rican rum, 44, 45
brands of, 45
PUFFS, 304
Pulque, 60
Punch, definition of, 302, 3 1 1
distinguished from a Cup,
311
quantity needed for a party,
3H
Punch cups & bowls, 17
Punches, hot, 303
individual and party, 302
of the Gay Nineties, 312
rules for making, 3 1 2 - 1 4
"Sour" type & Milk, 302
PUNCHES & CUPS, 3 1 1
PURPLE FIZZ, 284
PUSSYFOOT, 248
QUEEN, 101
QUEEN OF SHEBA, 128
Quetsch, 49, 58
Quinquina, 65, 70
RAIL SPLITTER, 297
RAINBOW POUSSE-CAFE, 247
Rain Water Madeira, 73
RAMOS GIN FIZZ, 285
Raspberry brandy, 49, 58
Raspberry syrup, 83
Reaction time, of drinks, 24,
97
of Martinis, 108
of Old-Fashioneds, 108
RED LION, 127
Refrigerators, defrosting, 8 6 -
87
REMSEN COOLER, 295
367
Rémy Martin cognac, 53, 207 RUM MANHATTAN, 106
RESTORERS. See Picker-uppers RUM MARTINI, 103
RHETT BUTLER, 249 RUM MILK PUNCH, 303
RHINE WINE COBBLER, 294 RUM OLD-FASHIONED, 109, 159
RHINE WINE COOLER, 296 RUM PUFF, 304
RHINE WINE PUNCH, 320 RUM RICKEY, 277
Rickey, definition of, 276 RUM SANGAREE, 298
RICKEYS, 276 Rum Sarthe, 48
Rigi kirsch, 58 RUM SHAKE, 252
ROB ROY, 167 RUM SLING, 299
R.O.C. curaçao, 210 RUM SMASH, 255
Rocher Frères liqueurs, 77 RUM SOUR, 120
Rock & Rye, 187 Rum Sour, cocktails based on,
ROCKY MOUNTAIN PUNCH, 3 1 8 129
"Roll Your Own," 1 1 5 RUM SQUIRT, 309
ROMAN PUNCH, 304 RUM SWIZZLE, 324
Ronrico rum, 45 RUM TODDY, 300
ROSE, 249, 250 RUM ZOOM, 266
Rouyer cognac, 53 RUSSIAN, 250
ROYAL FIZZ, 284 Rye. See also Whisky
Royal Reserve rum, 47 RYE COLLINS, 280
ROYAL RICKEY, 277 RYE HIGHBALL, 270
ROYAL SMILE, 146 RYE JULEP, 290
RUBY FIZZ, 286 RYE SMASH, 255
Ruby port, 74 Rye whisky, brands of, 35
RUM & COCA-COLA, 310 distinguished from bourbon,
Rum, as a cocktail base, 24, 25 35
brands of. See Cuban rum, how made, 35
Jamaica rum, etc.
classes of, 44 Sabayon, definition of, 346
how made, 43 SABAYON, recipe for, 346
use in cooking, 45 Sack, 72
RUMBA, 250 St. Croix rum, 48
RUM BOOZE, 3 3 3 St. James Club, Montreal, 122
RUM BRONX, 159 St. James rum, 48
RUM BUCK, 275 ST. MORITZ, 163
RUM COBBLER, 293 St. Raphael, 69
RUM COCKTAIL, 159 Sandeman Madeira, 73
Rum cocktails (aromatic type), Sandeman sherry, 72
157 SANDY COLLINS, 280
RUM COLLINS, 280 Sangaree, definition of, 297
RUM COOLER, 296 SANGAREES, 297
RUM CRUSTA, 224 SANTIAGO, III, 251
RUM DAISY, 288 SANTINAS POUSSE-CAFE', 247
RUM FIX, 288 Santo Domingan rum, 44
RUM FIZZ, 286 SARATOGA COCKTAIL, 170
RUM FLIP, 231 SARATOGA COOLER, 297
RUM HIGHBALL, 270 Sarthe rum, 48
RUM JULEP, 290 SAUTERNE COBBLER, 294
368
SAUTERNE CUP, 321
SAUTERNE SANGAREE, 298
SAVANNAH, 251
SAZERAC, 164, 165
SCAFFAS, 251
Scandinavian hot drinks, 340
SCARLETT O'HARA, 251
Schiedam gin. See Holland gin
Schnapps, 25n
Schwarzwalder kirsch, 58
SCOTCH & SODA, 4 1 , 269
Scotch as a cocktail base, 40,
166
SCOTCH COCKTAIL, 166
Scotch cocktails, aromatic type,
166
experimenting with, 168-69
SCOTCH COLLINS, 280
SCOTCH HIGHBALL, 270
SCOTCH MANHATTAN, 106
SCOTCH MILK PUNCH, 303
SCOTCH OLD-FASHIONED, 109,
167
SCOTCH RICKEY, 277
SCOTCH SAZERAC, 167
SCOTCH SLING, 299
SCOTCH SMASH, 255
SCOTCH TODDY, 300
Scotch whisky, brands of, 34
distinguished from Ameri­
can, 41
distinguished from Irish, 33
how made, 32
not prescribed by doctors,
3 1 , 42
SEA FIZZ, 286
Seagram's Ancient Bottle gin,
27
Seagram's Pedigree whisky, 35
Seagram's V.O. whisky, 35
Seagram's yellow gin, 27
SEESAW, 252
SEPTEMBER MORN, 130
SEVENTH HEAVEN, 252
Severy liqueurs, 77
SHAKES, 252
Shaking, effect on wines, 66
Shaking and stirring, 66, 92
SHAMPARELLE. See Champerelle
SHAMROCK, 163
SHANDY GAFF, 307
SHANGHAI, 252
SHEEPSHEAD BAY, 163
SHEIK, 128
Sherry, brands of, 72
how made, 70-71
types of, 71
use in cocktails, 72, 102
SHERRY & BITTERS, 252
SHERRY & EGG, 1 5 , 253
SHERRY COBBLER, 294
SHERRY FLIP, 231
Sherry glasses, 15
SHERRY SANGAREE, 298
SHIRLEY JANE, 253
Short drink, definition of, 209
Short drinks, 209
Shrub, definition of, 325
SHRUBS, 325
Side Car, a Brandy Sour, 121
discussion of, 111 —12
SIDE CAR DE LUXE, 112
SIDNEY, 163
SILVER BRONX, 157
SILVER FIZZ, 283
Silver mugs, 17
Simple syrup. See Sugar syrup
SINGAPORE GIN SLING, 299
Skaal, 60
SLEEPY HOLLOW, 253
Sling, definition of, 298-99
distinguished from a Toddy,
298-99
Slings, hot & cold, 298
SLINGS & TODDIES, 298
Slivovitz, 49, 57, 62
SLIVOVITZ SOUR, 122
SLOEBERRY, 254
Sloe Gin, 24, 188
SLOE GIN COCKTAIL, Dry, 254
SLOE GIN COCKTAIL, Sweet, 254
SLOE GIN FIZZ, 286
SLOE GIN RICKEY, 276, 277
SLOPPY JOE'S, 254
SMASHES, 1 7 1 , 254, 255
Smirnoff vodka, 61
SNAPPER, 255
SNOW BALL, 286
369
SNOW WHITE, 131
Soda & Ginger Ale, 87
Soda bicarbonate, 343
Solera, definition of, 71
SOMERSET, IOI
SOUL KISS, 255
Sour glasses, 16
Sour mash whisky, 35
SOURS, 118
Sours, as picker-uppers, 343
definition of, 1 1 7 , 119
discussion of, 118-20
proportions of ingredients,
1 1 8 , 129
SOUTHAMPTON, 255
SOUTHERN BEAUTY, 256
Southern Comfort, 59, 188
SOUTHERN COMFORT COCKTAIL,
256
SOUTHERN COMFORT JULEP,
292-93
SOUTHERN COMFORT OLD-FASH­
IONED, 108
SOUTHERN COMFORT RICKEY,
277
SOUTHSIDE FIZZ, 284
SOUTHSIDE SPECIAL, 309
SOVIET, 256
Spanish brandies, 55-56
SPICED RUM. See Hot Spiced
Rum
Sp. Vini Gall., 48
Sp. Vini Vitis, 48
SPRITZER, 273
Squeezers, 20
Squirt, definition of, 2 1
Squirter tops, 21
SQUIRTS, 309
STAR, 174
STAR DAISY, 288n
STINGER, 143, 144
Stirring & shaking, 66, 92
Stirring carbonated drinks, 93
Stirring rods, 18, 21
STIRRUP CUP, 321
STOLEN KISS, 256
Stomach wash to relieve alco­
holic effect, 342
STONE, 257
370
STONE FENCE, 296
STONEWALL JACKSON, 296
Strainers, 20
STRAWBERRY BOWL, 3 1 8
Strega. See Liqueur Strega
STUBBY COLLINS, I09n
Sugar, as a modifying agent, 6
blending with liquor, 84
Sugar syrup, how made, 83
SUISSESSE, 257
SUISSESSE HIGHBALL, 272
SUNDOWNER, 144
SUNRISE, 257
SUNSHINE, 257
SUPREME, 147
SUSIE TAYLOR, 27511
Swanee Pride, 59
Swedish aquavit, 60
Swedish Punch. See Arrack
Punsch
SWEET & LOVELY, 258
SWEET DREAM, 258
Sweet drinks, danger of, 8-9,
97, 202-03
Sweet mash whisky, 35
SWISS, 177
Swiss kirsch, 58
SWISS SPECIAL, 258
Swizzle, definition of, 323
how served, 324
Swizzled Manhattan, 324
Swizzle stick, 323
SWIZZLES, 323
Swizzling, effect on vermouth
drinks, 324
Syllabub, definition of, 346
SYLLABUB, recipe for, 346
Tall drinks, definition of, 267
classification of, 268
TAMMANY, 258
Tawny port, 74
Tea, use in Punches, 3 1 4
Teaspoonful, definition of, 21
TENNESSEE, 141
Tequila, 61-62
TEQUILA COCKTAIL, 258
TEQUILA COLLINS, 281
TEQUILA MARTINI, 103
TEQUILA SOUR, 122
Testing liquor. See Judging
liquor
TEXAS FIZZ, 285
THIRD RAIL, 159
THISTLE, 258
Three Dagger rum, 47
Three Feathers bourbon, 207
Three Feathers gin, 207
Three Swallows Irish, 34
TIGER'S MILK, 303
TIPPERARY, 259
T.N.T. SPECIAL, 174
TODDIES, hot & cold, 298
Toddy, definition of, 298-99
distinguished from a Sling,
298-99
TOKAY COBBLER, 294
TOM & JERRY, 331
Tom & Jerry mugs, 17
ТОМАТЕ, 210
Tomato juice as a picker-
upper, 344
TOM COLLINS, 26, 280
Tom Collins Mix, 279
Torino, vermouth from, 66, 68
TORONTO, 160
TOVARICH, 259
TRINITY, 168
Triple Sec, 77, 188
TROPICAL, 259
TURF, 260
TURKISH BLOOD, 308
TUXEDO, 260
Twist of lemon, 95, 103П
Unicum bitters, 79
UNION CLUB, 260
Union of South Africa li­
queurs, 77
UPTOWN, 260
UPTOWN MANHATTAN, 164
VALENCIA, 260
Van der Hum, 77, 188
VANILLA COBBLER, 2g4
VELVET, 308
VERMONT. See OLD VERMONT
Vermouth, brands of, 66, 67
classes of, 66
how made, 67
importation & manufacture
in U.S., 67-68
VERMOUTH-CASSIS, 271
VERMOUTH COCKTAIL, 5, 175
VERMOUTH COOLER, 296
VERMOUTH-CURACAO, 271
VERMOUTH HIGHBALL, 270
VERMOUTH RICKEY, 277
Vermouth Rinse, 100
Vieille Cure, 27, 77, 188
Vin & Spritcentralen aquavit,
60
Vin & Spritcentralen liqueurs,
77
Vinmonopolet aquavit, 60
Vino de Pasto sherry, 72
Vintage port, 74
VIOLET FIZZ, 284
VIRGIN, 105П, 261
Virgin Islands rum, 44, 48
brands of, 48
Vodka, 60
use of potatoes in, 59П
VODKA COCKTAIL, 261
VODKA COLLINS, 280
VODKA HIGHBALL, 270
VODKA MARTINI, 103
VODKA MEDIUM MARTINI, 225
VODKA PERFECT, 225
VODKA RICKEY, 277
VODKA SHAKE, 252
VODKA SMASH, 255
VODKA SOUR, 122
VODKA SPECIAL, 261
VOLGA, 261
WAGON WHEEL, 261
Waldmeister, use in May wine,
320
WALDORF, 262
WALDORF-ASTORIA, 262
WALDORF POUSSE-CAFE', 247
WARD EIGHT, 138, 309
WASSAIL BOWL, 326
Wassail Bowl, definition of,
326
371
Wassail Bowl—Cont'd
distinguished from a Bishop,
335
Water, not to be used in a
cocktail, 87, 106-07
not to be used in a highball,
2 73-74
Weiland Geneva gin, 25
Welsh Bros. Madeira, 73
WESTCHESTER SPECIAL, 162
WESTERN EGG NOG, 330
WEYLIN, 166
Whisky, aging of, 39, 41
as a cocktail base, 136
definition of, 3 1 , 43
difference between Scotch
and American, 41
difference between Scotch
and Irish, 33
how made, 31
use as meaning rye or bour­
bon, 105
WHISKY BUCK, 275
WHISKY COBBLER, 293
WHISKY COCKTAIL, 160
Whisky cocktails, aromatic
type, 160
WHISKY COOLER, 296
WHISKY CRUSTA, 224
WHISKY CUP, 3 1 7
WHISKY DAISY, 288
WHISKY FIX, 288
WHISKY FIZZ, 287
WHISKY FLIP, 231
Whisky glasses, 15
WHISKY MILK PUNCH, 303
WHISKY PUFF, 304
WHISKY PUNCH, 305
WHISKY SANGAREE, 298
WHISKY SHAKE, 252
WHISKY SLING, 299
WHISKY SOUR, 120
Whisky Sour, cocktails based
on, 136
WHISKY SQUIRT, 309
WHISKY SWIZZLE, 324
WHISKY TODDY, 300
WHISKY ZOOM, 266
372
WHITE, 262
WHITE ANGEL PUNCH, 323
WHITE BABY, 262
White label rum. See Carta
blanca
WHITE LADY, 123
WHITE LION, 262
White Mule, 39
WHITE PLUSH, 303П
White port, 73
WHITE ROSE, 263
WHITE VELVET, 263
WIDOW'S DREAM, 263
Williams & Humbert sherry, 72
WINE COOLERS, 296
Wineglass as a measurement,
15, 22
WINE LEMONADES, 301
WINE POSSET, 333
WINE SANGAREES, 298
Wines in cookery, 345-46
WINE SQUIRTS, 309
Woodruff. See Waldmeister
Wormwood, 63
Wray & Nephews rums, 46, 47
XALAPA PUNCH, 316
YACHT CLUB, 263
YACHT CLUB PUNCH, 306
YALE, 155
YALE FENCE, 155
Yellow Gin, 1 5 m
YOU & I, 263
ZABAGLIONE. See SABAYON
ZABAIONE. See SABAYON
ZAMBAGLIONE. See SABAYON
ZA-ZA, 263
ZOMBIE, 16, 47, 263-65
Zombie glasses, 16
ZOOM, 265
Zubrowka, 61
Zug kirschcs, 58
Zwack's bitters, 79
Zwack's kirsch, 58
Zwack's liqueurs & brandies,
58, 77
 (Continued from front flap)

lemons, and miscellaneous spirits used as'

blenders; pertinent pointers on the proper

service of a drink.

Here is a book of fine talk about the

subtle art of mixing drinks, together with

recipes for more than seven hundred fine

and fancy drinks, from Knickcbeins nnd

Juleps to Grogs and Wassail bowls. Finally

there is a highly enjoyable, thorough­

going discussion of the use and abuse of

liquor which, in the course of exploding

a number of popular misconceptions, pro­

vides you with useful and usable infor­

mation.

The Author:

"I am not," says Mr. Embury, "a dis­

tiller, an importer, a bottler, or a merchant

of liquors. I am not even a retired bar­

tender." He is a busy and prominent New

York attorney who has distilled in this

book the delights of sensible and artful

drinking. He lives in Larchmont, New

York.
A few,pertinent wordsTHE FINE ART OF
from

MIXING DRINKS . . .
"I once had a guest say to me, 'Dave, that is the most delicious
cocktail I ever tasted, but I wish you had put a little liquor in it.'
Twenty or thirty minutes later and after two of them, he said.
'Great heavens, what kind of dynamite did you conceal in that
drink?' The answer, of course, was that the cocktail contained a
fairly substantial amount of a heavy liquor and was smoothed out
with egg white.
"Different types of drinks have different reaction times. Liquors
that are unaged or only slightly aged, such as gin, vodka, or akvavit.
give a quicker lift than those that are old and'mellow, such as well-
aged whiskies. Dry drinks give a much quicker reaction than sweet
drinks. Even the use of Italian vermouth will slow down the reac­
tion time. The use of eggs, milk, or cream not only smooths out and
covers up the sharp, biting tang of the drink, but also greatly length­
ens the reaction time.
"Eggs, cream, and sugar do not make a ^rink milder—they only
make it taste milder and postpone the effect. The alcoholic content
of the drink will sooner or later reach the blood stream and, accord­
ing to the capacity of the individual, will produccthc same effect
whether it be thirty seconds or thirty minutes after the drink is
consumed.
"That is why sweet drinks and creamy drinks arc dangerous.
They taste harmless, so the drinker has another and another, and
maybe still another. Later on he experiences the cumulative effect
of the entire lot.
"Furthermore, such drinks do not stimulate the appetite; they
smother it. One of the most deadly of this type of drink is the
Alexander. It is not a prelude to a mcalr'it is a meal in itself. And
by the same token, probably the most perfect aperitif cocktail ever
invented is the Martini. It sharpens the taste: it makes the stomach
fairly cry out for food: and, since its reaction time is practically
instantaneous, it gives fair warning to the drinker not to take ton
manv."

THE FINE ART OF MIXING DRINKS

Printed in the U.S.A