Heat setting of fabrics

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C.N. Sivaramakrishnan
THE term "Preparation" has two implications in textile processing. In grey
manufacturing, it is used to describe the processes which prepare yarns for
weaving and knitting. In wet processing, the term is used to describe those
processes that ready fabrics for the steps that follow, coloration and
finishing. Fabric preparation is the first of wet processing stage, where grey
fabric is converted into finished fabric. The steps that follow, heat setting,
dyeing or printing and finishing, are greatly influenced by how the fabric is
prepared. Improper preparation is often the cause of problems
encountered during dyeing and finishing stages. Synthetic fibers follow
different sequence of operations; hence there is no universally accepted
method for each of the wet processing steps. Nonetheless every set-up is
expected to accomplish the same goals. To deal with this seemingly infinite
number of permutations, a fundamental understanding of what happens
at each step and how to control the chemical and physical parameters is of
paramount importantce; one of them being the heat setting of synthetic
fibers operation.

In textile material science, a classic and fundamental problem is the

connection between the tensile properties of fibers and yarns. A yarn is a
complex system made by a fibrous structure, i.e, a bundle consisting of a
given number of single fibers; this bundle, after twisting, becomes a yarn.
The improvements observed in the tenacity of PES/viscose yarns after heat-
setting can be attributed to the effects of this thermal process on PES
fibers, which constitutes 67% of the blend of most of the fabrics. The
physical and chemical properties of fibers such as dye absorption, strength
etc are closely related to the structure of non-crystalline sections. Due to
the temperature of the heat-setting applied, the rate of crystalline sections,
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the average distance between crystalline centers and the number of bonds
between macromolecules in fibers increased, as a consequence of which
the degree of orientation in fibers increased, causing an improvement in
the yarn tenacity.

The purpose of heat setting is to dimensionally stabilize fabrics containing

thermoplastic fibers. Polyester and nylon are the principal fibers involved
and blends with these fibers are produced in large quantities. These fabrics
either shrink or distort during wet processing. Heat setting is a way of
reducing or eliminating these undesirable properties where the synthetic
component is in excess of 20%.

The process is relatively simple operation by passing the fabric through a

heating chamber for a stipulated time and at a temperature which resets
the thermoplastic fiber's morphology memory. The new memory relieves
the stresses and strains imparted to the fiber by the yarn making and
weaving processes and makes stable the configuration it finds itself in flat
smooth fabric. This newly imparted memory allows the fiber to resist fabric
distorting forces and provides a way to recover from them. The time and
temperature needed for the heat treatment depends on fabric density and
previous heat history of the polyester. Time and temperature must exceed
that imparted by previous heat treatments. Heat setting is carried out
between the softening and melting point of the fibers, 200 c to 210c for 15
to 30 seconds and 160 to 170c for 20 seconds for nylon respectively. Heat
setting is generally done between the softening and melting point of the
fibers. The heat setting equipment is normally carried out in a setter where
at least more than one chamber is hot air. While the process is simple,
careful control is required to avoid subsequent processing problems.

Theoretically, all synthetic fabrics can undergo heat-setting treatment to

give a permanent three-dimensional effect. Polyester and nylon are very
common; however, hydro setting or water setting is done for natural fibers
also. Silk is the only natural fiber which exists as a continuous filament. Its
amino acid composition arranged in a polypeptide chain is similar to that of
human skin. Silk possesses a combination of properties that cannot be
imitated by any other fibers Heat setting is done to keep the aesthetic
properties like luster, suppleness, hand feel, smooth hand feel, draping
alive. Boiling or steaming silk fabric is done to achieve a permanent heat-
setting effect. The temperature applied should be lower than 140, as silk is
a delicate protein natural fiber. For heat-set silk fabric, ironing is avoided
and dry-cleaning is recommended to maintain the three-dimensional
texture. Untreated silk is stiff because the filament is naturally coated by
protein. The protein can be destroyed in high temperature but the filament
itself would not. Viscose rayon is a regenerated fiber which can be
described as half-natural-half-synthetic. Viscose rayon can also be water set
to retain its dimensional stability.

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Mr. C.N. Sivaramakrishnan, Senior Industry Consultant,
is a B.Sc. (Tech.) in Textile Chemistry from Institute of
Chemical Technology (Formerly U.D.C.T.) and has over
35 years of experience in consultancy to the textile wet
processing and speciality chemical manufacturing
industries. He is a Chartered Colourist and a Fellow of
Society of Dyers and Colourists UK ( C Col FSDC ). His
association with COLOURAGE is 30 years.

Heat setting fabrics containing thermoplastic fibers is also beneficial in

improving pilling performance. For some fabric constructions, the
improvement may be temporary and deteriorate after multiple wash
cycles. On the other hand, heat setting is a definite plus on those fabrics
made with synthetic fibers having higher heat shrinkage. When high heat
shrinkage is combined with low flex life, heat setting can enhance pilling
performance to the point where the fabric appears to be pill free.

Heat setting and conditions of setting affects fabric shrinkage as given

below.

| Conditions |

% shrinkage
|
| After heat setting & Wash | After boil & wash |
| Warp | Weft | Warp | Weft |
| 150c /5 min dry heat | 2.8 | 2.0 | 1.0 | 0.5 |
| 180c/30 sec dry heat | 6.2 | 6.0 | 0.0 | 0.5 |
| 180c/8min HT Steam | 5.0 | 5.0 | 0.5 | 0.5 |
| 180c/30sec HT Steam | 5.4 | 5.0 | 0.5 | 0.5 |
| 130c/30sec HT Steam | 4.4 | 2.0 | 0.5 | 0.0 |
| 130c/ 45min HT | 5.4 | 1.0 | 0.0 | 0.0 |
| Unset fabric | 1.2 | 0.5 | 2.5 | +1.0 |

Areas and points of concern

Moisture in the atmosphere has a great impact on the physical properties
of textile yarns and fibers. Relative humidity and temperature decides the
amount of moisture in textile materials. Exposing yarn to high moisture
during production generally yields negative results, as well as being
undesirable for technical processing. On the other hand, a high degree of
moisture adequately exposed to yarn improves its physical properties and
enables the standard humidity of yarn to be reached. Yarns with lower
moisture content than the standard value result in monetary loss in sale.
Therefore, conditioning and heat-set is to provide an economical device for
supplying the necessary moisture in a short time. Each step in the

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manufacturing process, such as twisting, spinning, weaving, knitting etc.,
causes tension in fiber and yarns. Yarns tend to snarl in order to relax
themselves and get rid of this tension. Tension and snarling are likely to
lead to problems in the following manufacturing processes. The purposes
of conditioning and heat-setting (twist-setting) are to relax yarns, to prevent
them from snarling, enable efficient working in the following processes and
to fix yarn-twisting. With the aid of steaming in these systems, yarns are
conditioned or heat-set with saturated steam under vacuum. The Heat-
setting process, a treatment with steam under vacuum, improves efficiency
and quality in weaving and knitting plants by reducing yarn tension,
softening yarns, moisturizing them homogenously, eliminating electrostatic
effects and reducing fly and dust. Unset yarns squeeze bobbins during
dyeing with a pressure from the outside section towards the inside section,
as a consequence of which bobbins get deformed. The higher the
temperature of heat setting is the less the bobbins get deformed. Improper
heat setting is considered to be a factor which increases problems in
weaving, a situation in which warp and weft yarns cannot be tied together
with a right angle, Heat setting fabrics containing thermoplastic fibers is
also Heat setting and conditions of setting affects fabric Moisture in the
atmosphere has a great impact on the although they are straight and it
increases diagonal run in knitwear. Since saturated steam used in heat-
setting provides man- made fiber with good thermal conductivity, steaming
processes under vacuum make it possible for bobbins to shrink
homogeneously in every section. The yarns of such a bobbin are dyed
homogeneously without causing stripe effects or colour differences
between the inner and outer sections of the bobbin. The blend consisting
of PES and viscose is used widely in the textile industry. This type of blend
benefits from the high strength of PET fiber and from the natural qualities,
brightness and comfortable wearing property of viscose fiber. In addition,
viscose fiber has a high elasticity when compared with cotton fibers. When
used together with PES fibers, viscose fiber gives a more harmonious blend
as regards elongation at break. Since the tenacity of the wet cotton yarn is
higher than that of dry ones, cotton yarns have a higher tenacity under
high moisture.

Heat setting reduces polyester's dye uptake. Heat-set goods dye lighter and
slower than non heat-set goods. For uniform shades, side to center, front
to back and beginning to end exposure to heat must be controlled and
uniform, otherwise these differences will show up in the dyed cloth. Heat-
setting can be done either at the end of wet processing or at the beginning.
At either point, the goods must be free of wrinkles and other distortions
otherwise the distortions will be permanently set. Care must be taken when
heat-setting grey goods sized with polyvinyl alcohol. At high temperatures,
PVA will dehydrate, become discolored and insoluble in water. While grey
heat- setting may particularly be beneficial when preparing easily distorted
fabrics, one may have to settle for less than the full heat-setting benefit in

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order to still remove the size. For these cases, alternate mechanical
handling preparation equipment may be the answer. Heat-setting harshen
the hand and stiffens the fabric. The condition is more prone to happen
when contact heat is used. The fabric eventually becomes flat and develop
unwanted gloss or sheen.

Grey heat-setting fabrics with PVA size may insolubilize the size. When PVA
films are heated above 120°C, water is eliminated from the polymer
backbone to form either unsaturation, or to form ether crosslinks between
polymer chains. Either reaction will alter the water solubility of the
polymer. Once unsaturation starts, the double bond activates the splitting
out of a second mole of water to form a conjugated system. Conjugation is
responsible for the darkening color of the polymer film.

Like polyvinyl alcohol, acrylic sizes are sensitive to grey heat setting. The
carboxyl groups can split out one mole of water between two groups on
adjacent polymer chains and form an anhydride. These anhydrides harden
the polymer structure, slowing down the penetration of water and alkali.
With time and temperature. these anhydrides can be broken and the
polymer will re-dissolve. The carboxyls are also capable of reacting with the
amine end groups on the nylon surface to form amides. Once this
happens, it is virtually impossible to break these bonds and the size will be
permanently fixed to the fiber.

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