Tesla coil

Things required
I already had the wood, Snapple bottles, PVC, and glue.

Secondary Coil:

 A length of 1.5" PVC (the longer the better)

 About 300 feet of 24 AWG copper enameled wire
 1.5" PVC screw-thing (see picture)
 1.5" metal floor flange with threads
 Spray on enamel
 Circular, smooth metallic object for the discharge terminal

Base and Supra-base

 Various pieces of wood

 Long bolts, nuts, and washers

Primary Coil:

 About 10 feet of thin copper tubing

Capacitors:

 6 Glass bottles (Snapple bottles work really well)

 Table Salt
 Oil (I used canola. Mineral oil (horse laxative) it preferable as it
doesn't mold, but I didn't have any.)
 Lots of aluminum foil

And a HV power source such as a NST, OBIT, or other transformer

that gives off at least 9 kV at around 30 mA
Align the metal stand in the center of the bottom board and drill
holes for bolts to go through. attach the bolts tightly upside down.
This will allow you to put a base for the primary on top of it. Then
bolt the primary's base in. Take your pipe and wind it into a pretty
upside down cone (not the flat spiral in the pictures). Then mount it
on the supra-base.

Optional was the addition of 2 supports that I zip-tied the primary to.
 Forgot to add how to make the spark gap! It is just two bolts in a
open-air wooden box, and they are adjustable for tuning, etc
Align the metal stand in the center of the bottom board and drill
holes for bolts to go through. attach the bolts tightly upside down.
This will allow you to put a base for the primary on top of it. Then
bolt the primary's base in. Take your pipe and wind it into a pretty
upside down cone (not the flat spiral in the pictures). Then mount it
on the supra-base.

Optional was the addition of 2 supports that I zip-tied the primary to.

Forgot to add how to make the spark gap! It is just two bolts in a
open-air wooden box, and they are adjustable for tuning, etc
Wire up everything according to the schematic below. The
secondary's ground CANNOT be put to mains ground, it will fry
everything in your house.

My Coil's Specs

 599 Wraps on secondary

 6.5 Wraps on primary

Bring it outside for it's first run, as it really isn't safe to run anything
this potentially powerful indoors, there is a high risk of fire. Flip the
switch and enjoy the light show. My NST, at 9Kv at 30mA, makes
the coil give off 6 inch sparks.
There are a few things that I realize I should change in my next
Tesla Coil, one of the main ones being the design of the primary
coil. It needs to be both more tightly coiled and it needs more
windings. Also, i want to make a better discharge terminal. But, I
have a new Tesla Coil planned for when i find the time and money,
and it will probably be 6-7ft tall!
Automatic street light

Kit of Parts List:

Resistor: LED S1 = On- Off Switch
R1 = 330R Power LEDs NE555 IC with base
VR1 = 50K LDR PCB

Introduction:

Needs no manual operation for switching ON and OFF. When there is a need
of light it automatically switches ON. When darkness rises to a certain level
then sensor circuit gets activated and switches ON and when there is other
source of light i.e. daytime, the street light gets OFF. The sensitiveness of the
street light can also be adjusted. In our project we have used power led’s as a
symbol of street lamp, but for high power switching one can connect Relay at
the output of pin 3 of I.C 555 that will make easy to turn ON/OFF any electrical
appliances that are connected through relay.
Principle:

This circuit uses a popular timer I.C 555. I.C 555 is connected as comparator
with pin-6 connected with positive rail, the output goes high(1) when the
trigger pin 2 is at lower then 1/3rd level of the supply voltage. Conversely the
output goes low (0) when it is above 1/3rd level. So small change in the
voltage of pin-2 is enough to change the level of output (pin-3) from 1 to 0 and
0 to 1. The output has only two states high and low and cannot remain in any
intermediate stage. It is powered by a 6V battery for portable use. The circuit
is economic in power consumption. Pin 4, 6 and 8 is connected to the positive
supply and pin 1 is grounded. To detect the present of an object we have used
LDR and a source of light. LDR is a special type of resistance whose value
depends on the brightness of the light which is falling on it. It has resistance of
about 1 mega ohm when in total darkness, but a resistance of only about 5k
ohms when brightness illuminated. It responds to a large part of light
spectrum. We have made a potential divider circuit with LDR and 100K
variable resistance connected in series. We know that voltage is directly
proportional to conductance so more voltage we will get from this divider when
LDR is getting light and low voltage in darkness. This divided voltage is given
to pin 2 of IC 555. Variable resistance is so adjusted that it crosses potential of
1/3rd in brightness and fall below 1/3rd in darkness. Sensitiveness can be
adjusted by this variable resistance. As soon as LDR gets dark the voltage of
pin 2 drops 1/3rd of the supply voltage and pin 3 gets high and LED or buzzer
which is connected to the output gets activated.

Working:

When light falls on the LDR then its resistance decreases which results in
increase of the voltage at pin 2 of the IC 555. IC 555 has got comparator
inbuilt, which compares between the input voltage from pin2 and 1/3rd of the
power supply voltage. When input falls below 1/3rd then output is set high
otherwise it is set low. Since in brightness, input voltage rises so w obtain no
positive voltage at output of pin 3 to drive relay or LED, besides in poor light
condition we get output to energize