Cithrol Dphs - Dc171 Word

Cithrol DPHS TM
Cithrol DPHS is a versatile emulsifier for water-in-oil (W/O) lotions and creams. It has the unique ability to
produce very stable, fluid, low viscosity emulsions which spread easily on the skin and give a light skin feel,
often uncommon for W/O emulsions. The polymeric nature of the emulsifier enables the manufacture of very
stable emulsions at low emulsifier concentrations in presence of additives that are incompatible with traditional
W/O emulsifier systems.
Product INCI name Appearance

Cithrol DPHS PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Waxy-paste brown
Features / Benefits Applications

 Forms W/O emulsions, without the need for other  Very low viscosity W/O emulsions
emulsifiers  Body milks
 Excellent compatibility with a wide number of oils,  W/O Creams
electrolytes, alcohol and polyols  High internal phase W/O emulsions
 Excellent stabilisation due to high molecular weight,  Hydrating creams and nourishing/protective
and large polymeric oil- and water phase anchors creams
 Allows for high internal phase (HIP) emulsions, giving a  Multiple emulsions W/O/W
light, non oily skin feel
 Ethanol or polyol containing W/O emulsions
 Easy and reproducible emulsion processing, including
 Cleansing milk
semi-cold
 Water-free G/O emulsion
 Formation of liquid lamellar structures in oil and
interface, giving excellent stability >500C  Heating mask
 Produce W/O emulsions with a light skin feel  High electrolyte content W/O emulsions
 Able to disperse solids in oil phase  Pigment containing W/O emulsions
 Cost effective, can reduce formulation inventory  Daily skincare with SPF
 Sun care
 Make-up
 Silicone containing W/O emulsions
 Foundation creams
Benefits to W/O emulsions

Water-in-oil emulsions bear a close resemblance with the superficial lipidic film on the skin, presenting a first
natural protective barrier against xenobiotics. They also have been shown to offer an increased efficacy of
water retention and deposition of oil soluble actives such as sun screens.
Croda Europe Ltd Cowick Hall Snaith Goole East Yorkshire DN14 9AA England 03/09 DC171/1
Tel +44 (0)1405 860551 Fax +44 (0)1405 861767 E-mail pc-europe@croda.com www.croda.com/europe Page 1 of 5
Chemical Properties
Cithrol DPHS is an A-B-A block polymer (as shown below), with the A groups being represented by
Polyhydroxystearic Acid and the B block Polyethylene Oxide. This block polymer architecture gives Cithrol
DPHS its ideal interfacial packing.
B: Hydrophilic group Hydrophobic groups
Orientation at the W/O interface

Figure 1 is a schematic comparison of Cithrol DPHS with a sorbitan ester (a commonly used W/O emulsifier). It
clearly shows the larger anchor of Cithrol DPHS compared to that of the sorbitan ester and demonstrates the
increased molecule size of Cithrol DPHS. This increased molecular size contributes to its stability attributes via
the much increased size of the steric barrier effectively preventing droplet coalescence.
Figure 1: Orientation of Cithrol DPHS and sorbitan ester at the O/W interface
Excellent Compatibility
Cithrol DPHS has very broad compatibility with actives and other common formulation ingredients, including, a
wide number of oils, electrolytes, sunscreen filters and high levels (up to 25%) of low molecular weight alcohol.
This allows for extreme W/O formulation concepts otherwise inaccessible by standard W/O emulsifier
technologies.
Compatibility of Cithrol DPHS with Emollients
The stabilisation mechanism offered by Cithrol DPHS means that prior knowledge of the required HLB of the oil
phase is not required. All oil phases can be used to make stable emulsions as long as a portion of it contains
an oil in which Cithrol DPHS is soluble (see Table 1). This allows Cithrol DPHS to emulsify and stabilise oil
phases without a co-emulsifier. For emulsions very rich in silicone derivatives, Cithrol DPHS can be used as a
co-emulsifier together with silicone copolyols to increase the stability of the emulsions and to simplify the
emulsification procedure.
Product/INCI Appearance after 24 hours at room

temperature
Avocado Oil Clear
Octyldodecanol Clear
CrodamolTM AB (C12-C15 alkyl benzoate) Clear
Sunflower Oil Clear
Jojoba Oil Clear
Paraffin Oil Clear
Crodamol IPIS (Isopropyl Isostearate) Clear
Cithrol PGMIS (Propylene glycol isostearate) Clear
Prisorine 3505 (Isostearic acid) Clear
Wheat germ Oil Translucent
Crodamol IPP (Isopropyl palmitate) Translucent
Crodamol OP (Octyl palmitate) Translucent
Pripure™ 3785 (Diisostearate dimer dilinoleate) Translucent
Crodamol DIPD (Diisopropyl dimer dilinoleate) Translucent
Crodamol ISIS (Isostearyl isostearate) Translucent
Arlamol™ PS15E (PPG-15 Stearyl ether) Cloudy
Esto™l 3609 (Triethylhexanoin) Cloudy
Table 1 Solubility of 10% Cithrol DPHS in selected emollients
Easy Emulsion Processing

Cithrol DPHS makes for easy emulsion processing:
- Able to emulsify oil phases containing up to 50% cyclomethicone in combination with benzoate esters.
- Will add stability to water-in-silicone emulsions stabilised by silicone emulsifiers.
- Cithrol DPHS needs to be heated to above 370C and stirred before use; it can then be cooled and added to
the oil phase at room temperature.
- Production of liquid/low viscosity emulsions with excellent temperature stability.
- Emulsification in a wide variety of oils, including: non-polar to polar, pure vegetable oil phases, perfumes.
Formulation Tips when using Cithrol DPHS
Emollient oil phase
When formulating with Cithrol DPHS, it is possible to use between 10-40% of almost any emollient oil (except
pure dimethicone) including solvent oils, such as mineral spirits. Ensure that the surfactant is at least partially
soluble in one of the oils in the oil phase (see table 1).
A typical starting concentration is 10% Cithrol DPHS on the total weight of the oil phase.
With careful selection of oils and oil phase volumes, it is possible to produce sprayable emulsions, including
water-resistant sunscreen sprays.
Waxes
Between 0.5% and 2% wax such as beeswax, ceresine, candellila, paraffin or hydrogenated castor oil can be
used. These waxes improve high temperature stability because of their oil-gelling effect. They also add
viscosity and some drag. Waxes are less critical in emulsions stabilised with polymeric emulsifiers than with low
molecular weight glycerol or sorbitan esters emulsifiers. Cithrol DPHS is itself a soft wax and has been found to
thicken selected oil phases, therefore, contributing to the tactile aesthetics of W/O emulsions and reducing their
typical oily or greasy skin-feel.
Co-emulsifiers
A usage level of 1-2% w/w on total formulation is typical when using the polymeric Cithrol DPHS. Cithrol DPHS
does not normally need a co-emulsifier but for emulsions that need to resist very low temperatures it is
recommended to add a liquid W/O co-emulsifier with a low pour point. Combinations with the following
emulsifiers have been successfully used: Cithrol PG32IS (Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate), Cithrol PG23IS
(Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate) and Arlacel 1690 (Sorbitan Isostearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate). The
combination with Isostearic Acid based emulsifiers such as Cithrol PG23IS and Cithrol PG32IS can also modify
the tactile aesthetics if required.
Polyol
Between 5% and as high as 30% of glycerine, sorbitol solution or ethoxylated sorbitol can be used. These
provide improved freeze thaw stability by lowering the point at which the internal water phase will freeze and
improve the spreadability of the emulsion. It is even possible to make a glycerine in oil (G/O) emulsion using
Cithrol DPHS, allowing the inclusion of water-sensitive polar actives.
Actives
A polymer emulsified system allows incorporation of an extremely wide range of chemical types of actives
including:
a ) salts, even anti-perspirant salts

b ) ethanol to very levels, which may allow for formulations with a “preservative-free” claim
c ) sunscreens, organic and inorganic
d ) pigments in make-up products
e ) high and low pH such as depilatory creams and AHA/BHA containing moisturizing preparations
HIP (High Internal Phase) Emulsions
With Cithrol DPHS it is possible to formulate W/O emulsions containing up to 90% internal water phase. These
gel-cream emulsions typically show a water-release when rubbed on the skin. To reduce the effect of this skin
feel, a strongly water-binding polymer such as Hyaluronic Acid should be added to the water-phase.
Other information
HLB value 5 - 6
Melting range 29 to 40oC
The mechanism and theory of emulsion stabilisation with Cithrol DPHS is extensively explained in the following
reference:
Th. F. Tadros, C. Dederen, M.C. Taelman, A new polymeric emulsifier, Cosmetics & Toiletries 112, 75-87
(1997)
Non-warranty
The information in this publication is believed to be accurate and is given in good faith but no representation or warranty as to its completeness or accuracy is
made. Suggestions for uses or applications are only opinions. Users are responsible for determining the suitability of these products for their own particular
purpose. No representation or warranty, express or implied, is made with respect to information or products including without limitation warranties of
merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose or non-infringement of any third party patent or other intellectual property rights including without limit
copyright, trademark and designs. Any trademarks identified herein are trademarks of the Croda group of companies.

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Cithrol Dphs - Dc171 Word

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Cithrol DPHS TM

Product INCI name Appearance

Features / Benefits Applications

Benefits to W/O emulsions

B: Hydrophilic group Hydrophobic groups

Orientation at the W/O interface

Product/INCI Appearance after 24 hours at room

Easy Emulsion Processing

a ) salts, even anti-perspirant salts

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