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“I have yet As you read this, Better Photography has completed 229 issues in print,
having never missed a single monthly edition in the past 19 years.
to meet a Oddly enough, for all the effort that has gone into it, I could not help
passionate feeling that it seems to be a rather small number. There is so much more
photographer to explore! Perhaps, the familiar excitement of waking up to something
who isn’t young interesting and wonderful everyday, just as it did so many years ago,
has something to do with it. Photography does that. I have yet to meet a
at heart and
passionate photographer who isn’t young at heart and spirit, regardless of age. So, as teenagers
spirit, regardless often do, we decided to dig up a few numbers for us to boast about. Here they are.
of age.” We have 54 subscribers who are still with us from the very first issue in June 1997. The most
senior of them is now 92 years old and he sends letters to the magazine regularly. Over the
years, we have interviewed 614 photographers or featured them in depth. Of these, 141 greats
are extremely significant or legendary on a worldwide level, including the very biggest names
you can think of. We have reviewed and tested 1047 cameras, lenses, and accessories (including
film and a lot of analogue gear). We have featured over 5200 photographers (we lost exact
counts here on), their opinions, and their images, in other features and articles.
On to bigger numbers... we have had over 14,000 participants in workshops all over India,
most of which were conducted by the editorial team. Speaking of the magazine, over 34,000
pages have been filled by us, collectively. We estimate that we have introduced the joys of
serious photography to over 8,00,000 people, through the print edition of the magazine,
of which we have printed approximately 67,70,000 copies so far. And yes. In Mumbai, the
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8 have not been torn out of it.
Here’s to reaching our next magic number, our 250th issue. Cheers!
K Madhavan Pillai
editor@betterphotography.in
T S Eliot
by Cecil Beaton,
the Cecil Beaton Studio
Archive at Sotheby’s
Beaton’s virtuosic
command over
photographic technique,
and his indomitable need for
the gradiose saw him make
portraits of celebrities in
ways that were considered
unthinkable in the mid-
1900s. Speaking on fashion
photography, he is famously
known to have said...
“Never in the history of
fashion has so little material
been raised so high to
reveal so much that needs
to be covered so badly.”
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An ode to Ravi Kanojia
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Every month, the ‘Letter of the Month’ will win a special gift from
“No subject is
ordinary if the
SH O O T IN G T E CHNI Q UE SH O O T IN G T E CHNI Q UE
Based in Netherlands, Sanne Couprie holds a Masters degree in Sociology and has been involved in the field of development and cooperation. He has also
been freelancing as a photographer since 2006. You can find his work on his website www.photocouprie.com and on Instagram (@chewingscum).
recent drought-like condition that has toes and fingers I can took to learning to be
put up,” says Iman a cameraman.
on the need to come
up with new ways of
photographing her
“A photograph is Photography and Storytelling it, and their inevitable relation with
but a reflection It is the artist in a photographer that each other.
of its maker, captures not just a moment in time, The article spoke of the pioneering
but the entire story that led to that ideologies and works of Mikhail
because it moment’s existence. Kaufman, Dziga Vertov and his wife
gives a voice Composition, framing, the art of Elizaveta Svilova, whose magnum opus The story, ‘Man
to his thoughts lighting; are all chapters of the story that Man with a Movie Camera is a classroom with a Movie Camera’
was published in 17
and feelings.” the photographer wishes to capture. of learning for any photographer. It was
the May 2016 issue,
While these technological aspects of the interesting to learn about the origin and and showcases the work
picture are important, they must not take evolution of techniques like Double of Russian filmmakers
away from its larger story. Editing and Exposures, Match Cuts, and Dutch Dziga Vertov, Mikhail
Kaufman and Elizaveta
filters must be used like a story’s lexicon, Angle, that are now used abundantly by
Svilova and their crucial
only to enhance the basic understanding ‘men with movie cameras’. contributions to the
without changing its meaning. Hence, the Kunal Sumeet, Hyderabad field of cinematography.
photograph becomes a narrator; for
it must survive the timeline of the story, BetterPictures
SHO OT ING T ECHNIQUE SHO OT ING T ECHNIQUE
is long gone.
director informing you so. You might fledgling stages. Dziga Vertov, a filmmaker
romance, find some music to accompany it, but who swore by the limitlessness of the
theatrical films in all possibility, the director had not reach of the camera, put together footage
intended to provide you any. For the next gathered from four cities over a period
and the like, to sixty-odd minutes, you are told, the camera of four years. He calls it ‘an experiment
‘spinning top’ in Russian. He began Army during the Russian Civil War. features editor at the USSR State
w h at ’ S n e w
Ravi Kanojia from The Indian Express Passes Away
SanDisk iXpand Flash Drive
With its 128GB storage, the
iXpand Flash Drive helps
R avi Kanojia,
the principal
photographer at
In 2014, he won the National Award, for
his documentation of the people affected
by the Muzaffarnagar riots. He was also
clear space on the iPhone and iPad. It features
a USB 3.0 flexible lightening connector, provides The Indian Express, one of the newspaper’s most sought-
password protection for files and can back up lost his life while after photographer. To his friends and
data from social media sites. Also, the iXpand
drive app has a camera function to shoot and save photographing a colleagues, Ravi was known for his cool
on the drive. water train, for the and relaxed temperament. He is survived
newspaper’s drought coverage in Jhansi. by his parents and three sisters. Turn to
SanDisk extreme PRO microSDXc Chief Minister Akhilesh Yadav, announced page 32 to read his retrospective written by his
uhS-ii card an ex gratia of Rs. 20 lakh for his family. friend and fellow photographer Tashi Tobgyal.
The card is available in 64GB and
128GB variants and allows a transfer
speed of up to 275MB/s. It is
backwards-compatible with UHS-I host devices,
and enables users to capture Full HD and 4K Ultra
HD videos.
Sony World Photography Awards Unveils its Winners
Samsung evo Plus 256GB MicroSD
The card offers 256GB, the highest
I ranian photojournalist Asghar
Khamseh, won the prestigious L’Iris
d’Or Professional Photographer of the
external memory space compatible
Year award, for his project Fire of Hatred.
with smartphones, tablets, action
cameras, 360° video recorders and The series consisted of portraits made of
drones. Falling under UHS-1 Class 10 speed, it has acid attack victims in Iran.
Aaghar Khamseh
a 95MB/s read speed and 90MB/s write speed, Other winners included Sepehr
records 12hrs 4K UHD, or 33 hours full HD and
Jamshidi Fard (Culture category), who won
46hrs HD videos without renewal. The card will
20 for his work Salt Cleansing, Anais Stupka
be available June onwards at USD 249 (approx.
Rs. 16,700) (Environment category) for Mount Kazbek
in Frame and Sam Delaware (Portraiture Sony World Photography Awards received
Manfrotto advanced Rear Backpack category) for his series Sam. This year, the a staggering 2,30,103 entries.
Manfrotto’s new backpack is
designed to conceal its main
camera compartment, present in
between the bag’s shoulder straps.
It can carry a DSLR and three
lenses, and also features a tripod
Alexia Foundation Announces Winners of its Grant
compartment. All the zips on the
backpack are magnetically locked. A aron Vincent Elkaim’s series, Where
the River Runs Through, was awarded
the Alexia Grant under the Professional
USD 20,000. He will utilise the money to
pursue the project further and document
the consequences of the hydroelectric
MindShift Gear Multi-Mount category, for which he received a sum of dam in Brazil’s Amazon rainforest, and
holster Bags its effect on the indigenous communities
MindShift has launched the Multi-
Mount Holster 10, 20, 30 and 50 bags living there.
with features like a removable LCD Under the Student category, Nathaniel
screen protector, seam-sealed rain Brunt received the grant for his work
cover and inbuilt weather protection. Also, all the
Aaron Vincent Elkaim
21 March–21 June
the Garden
underground
indian habitat center, new Delhi
P R O ta L K
New Vintage Camera Museum Opens in Gurgaon
Tony Clancy
honeycomb Grid
Curated by Tony
is made of different
channels about the A ditya Arya has spent most
of his life collecting vintage
from makers like Kodak, Leica, Ansco, as gifts. He has also travelled far and wide
Zeiss, Graflex and Thornton Picard, and to countries like Japan, Switzerland,
have been manufactured between 1880 and Germany and France, to procure these
1990. It also houses other photographic antique cameras, most of which are in either
Being the Nizam’s court
photographer, Raja equipment like the different materials working condition or can be repaired.
Deen Dayal captured used to print and develop images, along Arya feels excited about this latest
rare photographs of the with an invaluable collection of 20,000 development and hopes that the new
architectural beauty of
late nineteenth century original silver prints chronicling India’s museum will be a great benefit to those
Hyderabad. The limited freedom movement. passionate about photography.
22 edition prints are being
exhibited as a joint
celebration of World
Heritage Day.
call for entries
28 april for the grand prize winner. The Open category winner
Photography aDDa will receive USD 3000 (approx. Rs. 2,00,430) and
e-MaLL, Kolkata the Amateur category winner will receive USD 1500
Sankar Ghose will be (approx. Rs.1,00,215). In addition to this, winners will
hosting a talk, which also receive equipment from Epson.
will revolve around entry Fee: USD 22 (approx. Rs. 1470) for the Open
his photographs that category and USD 18 (approx. Rs. 1203) for the
are a part of exhibits Amateur category.
abroad and in India. website: www.thepanoawards.com
His work has also been Deadline: 10 July
recognised by the likes
of National Geographic,
Photovogue Italy the howard chapnick Grant
and others. the competition: The grant encourages and supports
leadership in fields ancillary to photojournalism,
20 May–3 June which includes editing research, education
Figures in time and management.
tasveer Gallery, new Delhi Prizes: The recipient of the grant will receive
Participate in hiPa’s hariban award USD 5000 (approx. Rs. 3,34,050).
Samuel Bourne
contest and you could the competition: Photographers from around the world website: www.smithfund.org/howard-chapnick-grant
win prize money worth are invited to submit their monochromatic images. Deadline: 15 July
over Rs. 80 lakhs! Prizes: The winner will have the opportunity to travel to
Kyoto and participate in the collotype printing process hamdan international Photography awards
for two weeks. the competition: Now in its sixth season, HIPA is inviting
Samuel Bourne and
Charles Shepherd’s website: www.benrido-collotype.today/collotype- photographers from around the world to participate
nineteenth century competition in its new contest with the theme The Challenge.
vintage photographs Deadline: 30 June categories: The Challenge, Digital Manipulation,
include a series Portfolio, General—Black and White and Colour
of architectural ePSOn international Pano awards 2016 Prizes: The grand prize winner will receive
views, portraiture the competition: Participants are invited to submit their USD 120,000 (approx. Rs. 80,17,200) and the winner of
and landscapes. photographs of panoramas to two categories—Open The challenge category will win USD 25,000 (approx.
The exhibition is a and Amateur. Rs. 16,70,250). Other category winners will receive
part of the gallery’s theme: Nature and Built Architecture USD 15,000 (approx. Rs. 10,02,150).
decade long
Prizes: There is a total prize pool worth USD 60,000 website: www.hipa.ae/en
anniversary celebration.
(approx. Rs. 40,08,600), including USD 25,000 in cash Deadline: 31 October
29 May
Basic Photography
workshop
electronic city Phase 1, Bengaluru
H Satish
11–12 June received two master distinctions in
corporate Photo nature photography.
exhibition
nehru centre, worli, Mumbai
LO O K w h O ’ S S h O Ot i n G
“the images
are just as
much about
me as they
are about the
struggle of
Kashmir and
its people.”
Remembering Ravi
Ravi Kanojia of The Indian Express passed away in an unfortunate accident, while he was
on top of a water train in Jhansi, where he was covering the drought. Tashi Tobgyal looks
back at his life, and the various qualities that made him a much loved figure.
F
rom the time Ravi joined The form of a National Award, for his coverage of
Indian Express in 2009, one could the Muzaffarnagar riots.
immediately tell that he was hungry Although he did not have a steady plan
to learn. He was very disciplined to carry him along the different twists and
too, and this was evident in the turns that life took him through, one thing
He believed way he carried himself, about the kind he was certain of, and that was his end
in keeping of equipment he used and the nature destination. To most of us, it seemed like
suggestions and of investments he made. Even during he was headed in the right direction too,
assignments, Ravi was always one step and had even considered opening his own
critiques close ahead of the reporters he would accompany, studio. But above everything else, Ravi will
to the heart and always came back with the best be best remembered for his charismatic
and eventually photographs. This meticulousness and smile. Even under situations of extreme
incorporated dedication did not go unnoticed by his pressure, I have seen him carry himself with
peers, who often commended him on his a certain calmness and maturity. As I write
them in work. This mattered a lot to Ravi because he this, I find myself at a loss, knowing that
his future valued everything he did. Eventually in 2014, I won’t be in his presence anymore. He will
assignments. he would be rewarded for his efforts in the be dearly missed for a long, long time.
“Since we shared
the same name,
people would
always confuse
us. On the day
he passed away,
I received several
calls from
colleagues telling
me that the
confusion would
All photographs by Ravi Kanojia
sadly not be
there anymore.”
—Ravi Choudhary,
Photographer,
Hindustan Times
june 2016 Better PhotograPhy
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t IPa 2 0 1 6
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on 1 April where the association selected year according to the dynamic market
40 products from the pool of over 100. trends. The voting committee comprises
36 Amongst 30 leading member magazines, of top photography magazines, varying
Better Photography, the only Indian in their content and goals. As a result,
member of TIPA, was represented by the TIPA Awards are bestowed through
Deputy Editor—Technical, Shridhar Kunte. a majority of votes by very experienced
Since 1991, the members meet once a editors. The trophies for this year will
year at the General Assembly to discuss be presented to the winning companies
projects, share opinions and comment during Photokina in Cologne, Germany
on industry innovations and trends. on 20 September.
TIPA Awards
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is the highest
Representatives
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gather together for a
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pass cancellation filter) can deliver 5fps full resolution still images, and Full HD 1080p Mark II offers continuous shooting speeds of up to 14 fps and up to 16 fps in live view
videos. They feature Dual “DIGIC 6” image processors and a newly developed Mirror mode. The Dual “DIGIC 6+” processors offer high-speed transfer for up to 170 RAW
Vibration Control System that further suppresses camera shake. The cameras have images and unlimited JPEGs per burst. The camera is capable of shooting 4K and
a 3.2-inch 1.04 million dot, approx. 100 percent coverage ClearView II LCD and a also supports the new high-speed wireless standard. Focusing speed and accuracy
150,000 pixel RGB-IR metering sensor. AF performance is enhanced with a 61-point has been enhanced with an improved 61-point viewfinder AF and an improved AI
high-density reticular AF sensor and Canon’s iTR. Servo II+ predictive AF algorithm for better accuracy.
Best Easy
Best DSLR Compact Camera
Professional Canon IXUS 285 HS /
Sony Alpha α7R II PowerShot ELPH 360 HS
The Sony Alpha α7R II has a 42.4MP “Full-frame” Exmor R CMOS sensor housed The Canon IXUS 285 HS is a pocketable yet full-featured compacts that offer many
inside a full magnesium alloy body. It features a hybrid AF system with 399 on-sensor more options and higher photo quality than camera phones. The IXUS 285 HS
phase detection points and 25 contrast detection points that allow still shooting at up sports a 3-inch LCD and a 12x optical zoom lens with built-in optical Image Stabilizer.
to 5 fps at full AF and AE. The α7R II can deliver 4K video with in camera processing Keeping connected is easy with a dedicated Wi-Fi button and NFC. The 20.2MP CMOS
and recording. It offers fully customisable colour and gamma controls. Its ISO range sensor and DIGIC 4+ image processor deliver excellent quality even in low light along
is 100-25,600, with extendable ranges to ISO 50 to 1,02,400. with 1080p Full HD video and an ability to create a “highlight reel” in camera.
38
42
43
Best Professional
Flash System
Phottix Indra 360 TTL Best Portable Flash
Flash System Nissin i60A
The Phottix Indra360 TTL (360 Ws) has a built-in Phottix Odin Flash Trigger/Receiver The Nissin i60A is a shoe mount flash that can be used with Canon, Nikon, Sony, and
for up to 100 metres radio coverage and 12 metres indoor optical coverage with Fujifilm cameras. The flash has an integral 2.4GHz radio receiver that is compatible
Canon and Nikon systems. The unit’s smaller Li-ion battery makes for an ideal setup with the Nissin Air System and Air 1 radio Commander unit. The i60A has a Guide
for wedding and event photographers who generally have to move about with some Number of 60 metres and can be zoomed to optimize coverage in a 24–200mm
ease during the job. Its high-speed sync capability allows it to be handy during range. The back of the unit has a colourful LCD display and two control dials. It can
ambient lighting situations. The units offers eight stops of power adjustment, from be battery powered with a high voltage powerpack port connection. The i60A also
full power to 1/128th with TTL exposure levels adjustable in +/-3EVs. has a TTL Optic Wireless Slave Mode as well as settings for 8 channels.
HOW WE TEST
Product categorisation
We first segregate products
into categories for the purpose
of equitability in testing.
D
The DSLR is divided into
MM ENDE
entry-level, semi-professional
RECO
and professional categories.
For compacts, we distinguish
between advanced and basic
compact cameras. Similarly, we
also test consumer and pro
lenses, flashguns, printers, and
other photographic accessories
and gear.
The Process
We primarily test for features,
performance, build, ergonomics,
warranty and support. While this
remains constant, the weightage
we give to these parameter
differs from category to
category, because different
types of consumers have diverse
expectations from products.
Final ratings
Under each main parameter,
46
we list out hundreds of individual
variables (for eg. colour
Canon EOS 80D
W
Value for Money does not affect
the final percentage, because ith the arrival of the Canon an all-new 24.2MP APS-C CMOS sensor
prices for products change EOS 80D, it seems that that offers an ISO range from 100–16,000,
constantly.
the company is trying which can be further expanded to
Our Seals of Approval fast to catch up with ISO 25,600.
Any product that scores 80%
its competitors in the The AF system has been completely WEIgHTAgE OF
or higher in individual tests gets
mid-level camera segment. While the revamped, and what’s fantastic is that the PArAMETErS
‘BP Recommended’—a seal of
approval from our team. nomenclature may make it seem that this 80D borrows technology from the 1D X
is a replacement of the EOS 70D, I think series, where the camera has a separate 5% 15%
Top 30 cameras
At the end of the calendar it goes much beyond that, and is probably processor just to handle AF calculations. 15%
year, we evaluate the Indian creating a new segment between the 70D The camera has a wide-area 45 point AF
market and choose what we 20% 45%
and the APS-C flagship, the 7D Mark II. system. All the 45 points are crosstype
think are the 30 best cameras,
and sensitive to both horizontal and
across price ranges. This is
Better Photography’s recognition Features vertical lines when used with lenses
Features
of the very best products The most heartening aspect being that the of f/8 or faster. This allows tracking Performance
launched over the course of company seems to be finally addressing accuracy and quick AF performance Build Quality
the year. Our list becomes an
the parameters where it was falling short, even when shooting extended bursts. Ergonomics
interesting reflection of how the
to have a much better, well-rounded When coupled with teleconverters Warranty &
camera market is constantly
support
growing and evolving. product. The EOS 80D is built around there are as many as 27 crosstype sensors
52 58 62
that are capable of focusing down to f/8. viewfinder brighter than predecessors,
AlSO lOOK FOr
There are four types of AF area selection but it does not have the option of using
modes that can be selected based on interchangeable focusing screens. • Nikon D7200
number of possible shooting situations. Instead, it makes use of a Transmissive • Sony Alpha A6300
These include user-selectable Single- LCD Screen in which various important
point AF, Zone AF (where users can select shooting parameters like AF points, spot
from one of nine predefined AF zones), metering circle and composition grid can
Large Zone AF (where one of three zones be displayed on demand. This is quite a
can be selected) and a 45-point AF auto unique thing, and greatly facilitates the
selection, where the camera detects the AF picturemaking process.
point automatically. The centre point also Video has always been Canon’s strong
features a separate diagonal pair of line point, and the 80D carries the legacy
sensors which automatically comes in play forward. Full HD video with AF, full manual
when lenses with aperture of f/2.8 or faster control and variable frame rates apart, there
are used. is a new HDR Movie mode. In this mode,
WHAT’S In THE BOX According to the company, the central the camera captures a series of HD frames
AF point is extremely sensitive even in low at different exposures, one normal and one
• LP-E6N Lithium-Ion light, with an excellent sensitivity of -3EV. underexposed, in short succession at up to
battery pack
In our tests, this fared very well, with even 60 fps. And during playback it plays at 30fps
• LC-E6 charger
• EW-EOS80D wide slow kit zooms managing to lock focus in to create a movie with a wider appearing The tilt-swivel lcD
camera strap unimaginably low light. dynamic range. A DIGIC 6 processer works with touch control helped
• Eyecup Eb The large 100% coverage viewfinder has in conjunction with the CMOS sensor to frame this image while
• RF-3 Body Cap for holding the camera at
Canon EOS a new Dual Axis Electronic Level which offering quick Dual Pixel CMOS AF during
waist-level, the response
• Cameras software helps to ensure perfect horizons in your Live View and while capturing both Full from the touchscreen AF
CD-ROM images, available both via the LCD and HD and Full HD HDR movies. We would and shutter release was
• Instruction manual the viewfinder. An all-glass prism and recommend the use of STM lenses if you very quick.
• Warranty card Exposure: 1/100sec at f/11
advance coating technologies make the want to make best use of this technology. (ISO 1600)
SD card
slot
Self timer Vari-angle
control lcD Playback button
indicator lens Touch Screen
Hot Shoe
There are two separate microphones placed around the The mode dial is on the left below which is the ON/OFF The major buttons on the back of the camera are arranged
periphery of the lens for recording sound while capturing lever. Upper right surface is dominated by a detailed LCD vertically down the left side, with ample spacing. The LCD
videos. On the handgrip is the IR sensor that will capture information screen. Four function buttons run along the top covers the major part of the back. Just above the top right
the signal transmitted from IR remote control. side of the LCD screen out of which three are dual function. corner of LCD is the live view/video recording button.
S P Ec I F I cAT I O n S
OVErAll 91%
and while using a tripod. There are two see at this price point, and the image quality,
different sensitivity modes one is for normal almost at par with the equivalent Nikon and
usage and the other is a high sensitivity Sony cameras. Its MRP of Rs. 78,995, a mere
mode, particularly helpful while wearing Rs. 4000 more than the 70D is what makes Who should buy it? An wildlife photographer who
thin gloves. this camera a fantastic upgrade. If speed is wants a relatively inexpensive alternative/backup for the 7D
Mark II, or an action shooter who often uses teleconverters.
of essence to you and you would want a less
Performance expensive version of the 7D Mark II (and Why? The fantastic new AF system and excellent buffer
system complement the much improved sensor.
We tested the camera with the Canon EFS spend what you save on good optics), the
18–135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS and the EF 50mm Canon EOS 80D is a real winner. Value for Money
june 2016 Better PhotograPhy
teSt
DED
MMEN
RECO
Olympus PEN-F
With the Olympus PEN-F, Natasha Desai goes old school, while testing a digital makeover
of a film favourite. But is it just faux retro or does it make itself relevant? She investigates.
W
hen legendary Olympus Features
designer, Yoshihisa Maitani, The PEN-F has a new 20.3MP Live MOS WHAT’s In THE BoX
made the PEN-F in 1963, sensor and is equipped with 5-axis in- • Lithium-ion
it revolutionalised the body stabilisation. It also comes with the rechargeable
camera industry with capability to shoot a 80MP RAW file in battery
• battery charger
its frame-saving capabilities. The half its Multi-Shot mode and 50MP in JPEG.
• uSb cable
frame SLR camera was the first of its The caveat with this feature that we also saw • Shoulder strap
kind as it produced double the number in some of the recent OMD cameras, is that • Lens cap
WEIgHTAgE oF of exposures in a roll of film, which was you need to use a tripod. • Hot shoe cap
PARAMETERs • fL-LM3 flash
extremely cost-effective. It was also one The PEN-F features a 1/8000sec
of the smallest SLRs made because of the mechanical shutter and a 1/16,000sec
5% innovative changes it brought to the internal electronic shutter. It has a 2.36 million dot
20%
15% mechanism. OLED viewfinder and a 1.04m dot vari-
35% Interestingly, legendary photographer angle touchscreen display, which has the
25% W Eugene Smith appeared in an ad in ability to focus with touch and release the
1965 for the original PEN-F. Fast forward shutter as well.
to 2016, Olympus releases the PEN-F in a While there is no 4k present, the camera
features
Performance digital avatar, with the highest resolution does shoot video in Full HD with the option
build Quality offered by an Olympus Micro Four Thirds of an Art Filter Movie effect. 4k shooting
ergonomics camera yet. For the purpose of this review, is available while making timelapses.
Warranty & the camera was tested with the 14–42mm With ergonomics that are definitely
Support
f/3.5-5.6 lens. targetted at the serious enthusiast, the
camera includes four custom sets on the the choice to go old school in handling,
P lu s
mode dial, a much underrated feature that is a delicate one. Some cameras do so
• 50MP High res helps you save appropriate settings for fantastically, others falter.
Shot mode different shooting situations. Just like the The PEN-F does a decent job of
• 81 points af OM-D E-M1, the camera has a dedicated recreating the look of the original film
• eVf
lever that can fine tune the tonal curve of camera. But the retro exercise is more
MInus a JPEG file on the fly. Olympus cameras of a design choice, rather than one of
provide the most amount of control functionality. This basically means that
• absence of when it comes to fine tuning the exact in actual operation, the camera actually
microphone input
tonal response of a JPEG file, and if one resembles the other digital PENs. It’s only
spends some time doing this right, it can a slightly boxier body and the inclusion
completely minimise the need to spend of a built-in EVF that’s different from the
too much time in postprocessing. Like any E-P series of cameras. There is another
aspect of printmaking, this also helps a difference though. Much like the film
serious photographer previsualise the camera, this one, too, has a big dial at the
photo and decide his settings accordingly. front, beside the lens. In the film days,
this was a shutterspeed dial. Here, the
Handling shutterspeed-aperture operation is largely
I liked how all the
Retro controls have been in vogue ever restricted to the regular exposure dials, subtle hues in the blues
since Olympus announced their first MFT and instead, the front dial allows you select of this images were
camera, another PEN, the E-P1. With both between six JPEG presets (or six kinds of captured pleasingly.
exposure: 1/1000sec at f/11
Fujifilm and Nikon having made attempts film, if you wish to make a retro connect). (ISO 200)
in the same direction, it has to be said that For a JPEG shooter, this, along with the
f e b r ua ry 2 0 1 6 Better PhotograPhy
teSt
54
tonal curve control we mentioned, makes the camera. The dedicated exposure The face detect mode
Also looK FoR was able to accurately
the PEN-F an extremely intuitive camera compensation dial is useful, but would
detect the bus driver’s
• fujifilm X-t10 with a lot of control. sometimes accidentally get engaged, face and lock on.
• Panasonic LuMIX That said, it would have been interesting when the camera was in the bag. The on- exposure: 1/60sec at f/3.5
DMC-GH8 had this actually remained a shutterspeed off button, particularly, is clumsy and
(ISO 200)
dial, as that would have completely cumbersome. and oddly placed, to the far
changed the design philosophy of left at the top of the camera.
ERgonoMIcs
Front Top Rear Fn2 button
Thumb grip
shutter-release camera strap Rear dial
button eyelet Video record
button EVF
shutter
release button
Power
lens release switch Vari-angle
creative mode lens Hot shoe shooting mode Four-way
button articulated lcD
dial dial controller
Olympus has tried to nod to the old PEN-F as much The top is much sleeker compared to the old PEN-F and A lo of the customisable options are found on the back of
as possible. For instance, the old camera had a front have all the creative controls of the camera. The internal the camera. The thumb pad is nestled comfortably along
dial dedicated to shutterspeed, whereas the new one menu can be quite confusing if one is not used to it, but the buttons keeping everything within easy reach. I found
features art modes. the customisable options make it easy. the grip comfortable enough to shoot with one hand.
s P Ec I F I cAT I o n s
FINALRATINGS
Features 18/20
20MP sensor, multi-shot RAW images
Performance 38/40
Fast and responsive AF, good image quality
Ergonomics 17/20
Good grip with thumbrest, allows one hand
shooting, several customisable options
oVERAll 88%
Who should buy it? A street photography enthusiast
who travels a lot. Video enthusiasts have nothing here.
DED
MMEN
RECO
58 Sony Alpha 68
W
ith the sheer number autofocus points, including 15 crosstype
WHAT’S in THE BOX
of new cameras and points, and also a dedicated f/2.8 AF sensor
technologies that Sony point to facilitate low light autofocus. • Lithium-Ion
has introduced for the The AF points are well distributed across Rechargeable
E mount, especially in the frame, and according to the company, Battery
• AC Adapter
full frame, one may be forgiven for being 4D focus also enhances predictive tracking. • Micro UsB cable
skeptical about the future of the A mount, In our previous tests, we had realised • shoulder strap
WEiGHTAGE OF especially considering how quiet things that while it does improve tracking to a • Lens cap
PARAMETERS were in A mount land. The Sony Alpha large degree, the AF speed and maximum • Hot shoe cap
• Lens hood
68 comes at a welcome time, thus, as it aperture of the lens being used are also • Eyepiece cup
5% not only inspires some confidence in the crucial, and f/3.5-5.6 kit lenses aren’t the
20%
15% company’s commitment to the A mount, most ideal tools to track a moving subject.
35% but also offers budget users a kind of Of course, this is not an SLR, it’s an SLT,
25% focusing speed that is unparalleled at this which basically implies the company’s
price point. proprietary Translucent Mirror Technology,
which enables 8fps continuous shooting
Features
Performance Features (5fps in RAW). Other features include
Build Quality Sony chooses to call this 4D focus, a a 24MP sensor, in-built sensor-shift
Ergonomics technology that we had tested in the more stabilisation and a mic input. For video, the
Warranty & expensive A77 II and the E mount A6000. camera uses the efficient XAVC S format,
support
With this technology, the A68 has 79 with bit rates up to 50Mbps.
f e B r ua ry 2 0 1 6 Better PhotograPhy
tEst
Raj Lalwani
The lens mount is made of plastic, sadly. excellent, both in terms of dynamic range, The High Contrast
AlSO lOOK FOR
Startup time is a little slow, definitely slower across the ISO range, as well as the amount Monochrome setting does
• sony Alpha 6000 than a DSLR, but once it’s fired up, the of headroom you have and how forgiving a good job, but is not
• Canon EOs 760D available while shooting
operation is very fast. the files tend to be, even if you are making in RAW + JPEG.
• Nikon D5500
extravagant changes. The tonality in the Exposure: 1/60sec at f/4.5
(ISO 3200)
Performance JPEGs is excellent, but the competition
Much like the Sony sensors that we are does a better job in terms of sharpness
seeing in plenty of other APS-C cameras, and detail. The A68’s JPEGs do not do
this one, too, is excellent. Image quality justice to the sensor’s capability, because
when shooting RAW particularly is of aggressive noise reduction and other
ERGOnOMiCS
Pop-up flash
Front Top Rear Video
Record AE/AF lock
Camera strap
Menu button Button Focus mode dial
eyelet
Shutter-release
button Exposure Thumb grip
dial
Mode dial
Top lCD panel
Flash button 460k dot tilting Quick Menu
Multi Accessory
lens lCD screen button
Hot shoe
The Alpha 68 is not a very small camera. The grip of The top has the Multi Accessory hot shoe and a top LCD, Not only is the LCD screen small, the borders that outline
the camera is excellent and will inspire confidence even another rarity at this price point, something that’s only it mean that the actual image viewing area is tiny. On a
while using larger telephoto lenses. There is no AF-assist found in the Canon 760D. The layout of information within positive note, the button layout is intuitive and almost
lamp and the camera uses the flash for the same. the top panel is detailed and logical. every button can be customised separately.
S P EC i F i CAT i O n S
DED
MMEN
RECO
62
Benq SW2700PT
T
he BenQ SW2700PT is a 27-inch the stark difference in the monitor’s Indian
P LU S
monitor that directly targets pricing—a hefty Rs. 75,000!
the discerning professional • Holds calibration
photographer. A relatively Promises a Lot rather well
WEIGHTAGE OF
• Useful presets
PARAMETERS new entrant to this specialised A QHD display and a ppi setting of 109,
product category, the BenQ seemed like the SW2700PT has a true 10-bit display. MINUS
5% a promising prospect on paper, as it has
20% • Very pricey in India
15% a great deal of functionality that you S P E C I F I CAT I O N S
precalibration as something that must perception that the Apple monitor gives.
be trusted for serious use, but a quick
calibration process with the X-Rite i1
More so, while the holy grails of Eizos are
much more expensive, a significant price
OVERALL 86%
helped set up the screen. In terms of premium in India means that a slightly Who should buy it? Discerning photographers who
wish to make a lot of prints.
accuracy of colour reproduction and tonal smaller Eizo monitor is not much more
range, the BenQ performs rather well. expensive. The SW2700PT gets a thumbs Why? The BenQ is an excellent monitor that delivers on
accuracy, but wait for its prices to stabilise.
The standard deviation from the norm, or up for what it delivers, but the company
Delta-E, is impressively low. really ought to reconsider their pricing. Value for Money
june 2016 Better PhotograPhy
mi cr o test
A
With its small dmittedly, multi-functional competition to the G2000 comes from the
64
footprint, cost devices have never been in my Epson L220, similar in price, based on ink
list of favourites and it has been tanks and featuring an integrated scanner.
effectiveness and a very long time since I tested However, while the ink tanks on the L220
reasonably good one. The Canon G2000 came as a are outside the device, the G2000 has them
performance all pleasant surprise. This is a standard 4-colour within, while still being visible from the
round, this is an A4 printer (printing at a respectable 1200 x outside for checking ink levels.
4800dpi and capable of borderless printing) The performance of this device is split
excellent MfD integrated with a flatbed scanner (48bit by its various components. The photocopy
for homes and RGB, 600 x 1200dpi optical resolution). function is quick and mostly accurate, of an
small businesses. Without being attached to a PC, it acts as acceptable level of quality best used with
a quick, independent photocopy unit. normal paper.
The control panel is simplistic, with a power Canon scanners have a reputation for
button, scan buttons (separate ones for producing good results. From old family
colour and grayscale), a stop button, and photos to important documents, a scanner
two LED indicators for problems (jammed is very handy. Both bit depth and dynamic
paper, low ink, and the like). Simple though range is excellent, and the resolution is high
it may seem, there is a lot more to the G2000 enough for digital archiving.
than meets the eye. What caught me by surprise was the
The G2000 and it’s higher end sibling, quality the G2000 delivers on photo paper.
the G3000, are Canon’s first printers to The levels of tonality and the depth of blacks
incorporate refillable ink tanks instead of were, of course, not in the same level as S p e c i f i cat i o n S
using ink cartridges. A set of four ink bottles dedicated printers with more than 4 colours. • Product Name:
are supplied with the printer. On readying Yet, this printer is capable of delivering Canon Pixma G2000
the printer, the print heads, separate for prints that would be accepted by most and • MRP: Rs. 10,900
rivals regular prints made in a photo lab. • Gl-790 Ink MRP per
K and CMY, need to be first installed into
bottle: Rs. 499,
place. The advantages of this system are The Canon Pixma G2000 is a no- K: 135ml C,M,Y: 70ml
much larger ink capacities, replenishment frills MFD that does not offer advanced • Dimensions: 44.5 x
of single tank rather than buying entire options or connectivity. Yet, at Rs. 10,900 33 x 16.3cm
sets of inks, and an easy, cost-effective way (including a set of ink bottles) it is affordable
to replace malfunctioning components. and performs well, making it quite an R at i n g
All of these reduce operational and printing attractive proposition for homes and small
costs quiet significantly. The closest photographic businesses.
INTERPRETING CULTURE
A glimpse into the various stories that make Iran, as seen through the
keen and observant eye of Khashayar Sharifaee
Editorial
“Everytime Looking for Happiness
we find
that happiness The relationship I share with my grandmother has always been a little
hard to explain. I am not overtly fond of her, but I don’t dislike her either.
eludes us, we
Recently, however, things changed when she came over to stay with me.
go back looking Over the course of a few weeks, I managed to work around her presence.
for it in the Now, instead of feeling indifferent, I began to engage in conversations, and
photographs we soon enough, I found myself making pictures of her.
made of family For someone who rarely photographs her family, the fact that I reached out for my cellphone
to make portraits of my grandmother, is both unusual and surprising. At the time though, I did
members.” not realise this, and the thought only occurred to me much later, when a friend was curious about
the photographs I had shot. He wanted to know about my grandmother and the nature of our
relationship, to which I had nothing sentimental or interesting to offer. Being a photographer
himself, he found it intriguing, that despite the distance, I was at some subconscious level trying to
connect with her.
This statement really got me thinking about why we photograph our families, even though
we sometimes don’t share a very close relationship with a few of its members. And when we do
make the pictures, what are the circumstances like. Most often, I have found that the situations are
usually happy ones, so that when the picture is made, the maker has nothing but good memories
of the person. These are also the photographs that we go back to, every time that happiness eludes
us. I suppose by making portraits of my grandmother, I was trying to save a good moment we
shared. In a way, the cellphone allowed me to connect with her in more ways than one. May be the
next time someone asks me to describe our relationship, I will have something worthwhile to say.
69
Conchita Fernandes
Instagram: @schmoochita
santana demello
by Conchita Fernandes
From the time I was
born, I have been my
grandmother’s favourite.
For years, I have enjoyed
this status, but have been
unable to reciprocate
the emotion. To a
certain extent, I have felt
guilty about it, and my
photographs are a way of
acknowledging her love
towards me.
Cover photograph by
Khashayar Sharifaee
Vivo V3 Max
A Promising
D
MM ENDE
RECO
Shooter
Conchita Fernandes puts the Vivo V3 Max,
to the test and finds out how it fairs.
L
ike most Chinese manufactured illuminated with bulb lights. The camera
The phone’s
phones today who are trying to produced bright and punchy colours
emulate the iPhone’s design, the Vivo too, and lets you lock focus and change
fingerprint
V3 Max is no exception. It’s stylish, exposure simultaneously. sensor is
well-designed and features a 13MP However, when you switch to any of the extremely
rear camera and an 8MP front-facing camera, camera’s modes, it doesn’t let you shot in quick when you
along with 1080p video. The phone also burst, even when using the camera’s manual
offers a bunch of camera modes like the option. But this did not make any difference
want to shoot
Professional mode, HDR, Panorama, Night to my shooting experience. On the other photographs
70 mode, Ultra HD, Motion Track, and others. hand, I also found that photographs shot in succession.
during the burst mode were of a lower file However, it
Fast and Efficient size, without any changes to the image’s
From my very first experience with it, the resolution. There wasn’t any visible
doesn’t let you
V3 Max was promising. It photographed reduction in the quality of the photographs. shoot in burst.
well and did the job quick. I was pleasantly
This photograph
was possible because surprised with the phone’s ability to A Better Younger Sibling
of the camera’s fast shoot well, in both daylight and low light. Although the Vivo V3 Max (priced at
burst speed. It let me But what surprised me the most was the Rs. 23,980) barely gave me anything to
shoot 20 images at a amount of detail that the camera managed complain about, you may want to look at
stretch and another 20
immediately after, without to capture in low light, evident in a shot its younger sibling, the V3. It’s priced at
any lag. I made of a cutting board, at a fish market Rs. 17,980 and offers the same camera specs
as the V3 Max. It comes with a slightly
smaller screen and RAM than the V3 Max.
If this doesn’t bother you, then the V3 is
definitely a better option.
AT A GLANCE
SPECIFICATIONS 13MP, 8MP front camera, 5.5-inch display, Qualcomm Snapdragon 652
Octa-core 1.8GHz, 4GB RAM, 32GB storage, Rs. 23,980
WHAT WE LIKE Stylish UI, fast shooter, good in low light
WHAT WE DISLIKE The phone did not give me anything serious to complain about
WHY BUY IT? As an overall device, the V3 Max is a good-looking phone that shoots at an
incredible speed without any lag
Khashayar Sharifaee
• He began his career as
a press photographer
working for local
and national news
agencies in Tabriz.
But in 2012, he left it to
focus on documenting
social issues.
• Khashayar has had his
pictures published in The
Guardian and tIMe.
• Some of his favourite
authors include Bijan
Najdi (The Leopards Who
Have Run With Me),
J D Salinger and Edgar
Allan Poe. for khashayar, the
• In Praise of Love by device that he shoots
72 Jean-Luc Godard, with hardly makes
The Hunt by Thomas a difference to his
Vinterberg, and the Fish photography. in fact,
Tank by Andrea Arnold before he took to
are a few of his all-time the cellphone, he
favourite movies. would shoot with his
brother’s iPod.
Portraits of Iran
Khashayar Sharifaee talks to Conchita Fernandes about the importance of
giving his viewers a wholesome view of Iran and its daily occurrences.
M
ost of my understanding of to validate these words. Luckily, I found
Iran has come from words put them in Khashayar’s Instagram feed.
down by Azar Nafisi, Marjane You can’t help but be involved with his
Satrapi, Mahbod Seraji and subject’s dilemmas and share their grief and
Kader Abdolah. Their vivid happiness, or even enjoy a warm cup of tea
description of the country’s lush landscapes, with them.
of its dreamy hills and abundant mountains
are filled with a kind of whimsical romance. detached But Observant
find khashayar here!
Interspersed in between these grand vistas Having grown up in a modest household,
Instagram: exist inhabitants with strong familial bonds Khashayar has always felt a strong affinity
@sharifaee and lasting friendships, a kind of love that towards the working class in Iran. It helped
Website: www. is not bound by time or space. And so, him gain a better understanding of their
sharifaee.com
I find myself constantly looking for visuals social and economic conditions, of which
When he started
shooting, khashayar
wasn’t sure if he was
doing a good job of
conveying his thoughts
through his pictures.
But a certain incident
was instrumental in
letting him make the 73
plunge into photography.
“i was at a private pool
at my aunt’s apartment
complex, where i saw a
teenager sitting quietly on
a chair, completely lost in
his thoughts. There was
something about the
scene and the atmosphere
which triggered feelings.
i then knew what
i wanted to do.”
74
There is a kind of Instagram feed, he accompanies you, the relationship, the latter being a consequence
easiness in khashayar’s viewer, into private spaces—inside people’s of his grandfather’s death.
pictures, the way he
homes, of a quiet moment shared amongst
navigates through
people’s personal stories. two friends or an intimate exchange a Vision of another iran
surprisingly, not many between a couple in a car. Although he Khashayar’s photographs also contradict
have questioned his is close, there is an obvious detachment, the stereotypes that people have formulated
presence during such
probably his way of not prying into his about Iran, and of the restrictions imposed insTafOLLOW nOW
moments, except for
a handful. subject’s lives. On the other hand, I also like on its women. “A large portion of the news
Follow Andrew Quilty
how he portrays relationships, especially and visuals coming out of the country deal (@andrewquilty), as he
the equations between his family members, with executions, acid attacks and of young makes his way through
Afghanistan’s varied
most visible in the photographs he shot people doing drugs and alcohol. I am not terrains, to bring you
of his grandparents. In the portraits, denying that this does not happen, but it personal stories of
its inhabitants.
he has reflected their strong and fragile constitutes only one tiny facet of Iran and
therefore cannot be an accurate portrayal of to read poetry verses from Hafez in a café,
the entire country.” or gather at a friend’s residence to chat
While women are banned from attending and unwind.
sporting events at stadiums and the moral When uploading his
work on instagram,
police continue to be in the pursuit of keeping Traditions alive he is usually picky
those who don’t conform to their rules, A large chunk of Khashayar’s cellphone with photographs that
his photographs tell a different story. photographs are shot in Tabriz, the city have an extensive back
story. Otherwise, he is
That despite the baseless decrees, young he resides in. But apart from his urban
quite laid-back when
men and women continue to make trips to explorations here, he has also travelled it comes to putting up
the beach or the river side, or get-together to the rural interiors of Iran, and has daily pictures.
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76
it’s his intent to show documented its rapidly changing landscape. He feels that it’s important for Iranians
as much of diversity in Visuals of picturesque trails and hamlets in to be aware of the existence of such
iran as he can. Like this the heart of the country are symbolic of an places. “I have a lot of respect for rural
one, of people wearing
various ethnic outfits Iran cemented somewhere in between the areas. These places are like custodians of
native to the country. old and the new. the country’s age-old traditions, which is
slowly ceasing to exist in the fast-paced and as long as you have purpose, your pictures
evolving culture present in cities and towns.” will always be extensions to your thoughts.
But don’t worry if you haven’t found it. according to
as Long as you have intent Be patient, and continue shooting as much khashayar, a lot of the
young photographers in
“I am still fascinated by how a photograph as you can. You are bound to find it at some iran choose to shoot in
can convey its maker’s most intimate point, like I did when I saw a teenager sitting the B&W medium without
thoughts to complete strangers. How it does quietly on a chair, completely lost in his really understanding
its specifics, when
it, I suppose, will always be a mystery to thoughts. That moment set off something
they should instead be
me, or something that may reveal itself with inside me, and since then I haven’t been able focusing on developing
time. This shouldn’t matter though, because to stop.” their style and aesthetic.
78
The great Irving Penn had once said that a fashion picture is a portrait, just as a portrait is
a fashion picture. But what is fashion, in the first place? Is it about the clothes?
Or is it about models? Beauty, perhaps? Or allure? Avant-garde designers? The industry?
Or is it, much like photography itself, about all of this, and none at all? Is it, like
picturemaking, about mood, about vibe, about the way something feels like?
Always changing, always in flux, something that is ‘in fashion’ today, will cease to be,
tomorrow. That which is imagined today, will soon be relegated to memory, even history.
Photographers over the years have chased this elusive concept, trying to comprehend,
interpret and reinterpret the world of fashion.
As Better Photography enters the last year of its teens, we have decided to break a few rules.
There will be a party and an afterparty, this special showcase of fashion photography,
and another, in the second volume of this two-issue special, next month in July. But this
isn’t just about fashion photography. Some of the greatest fashion photographs through
history have been shot by practitioners whose core practice was dedicated to other
genres, other philosophies. And so we present this issue, with some groundbreaking
work in the realm of fashion and portraits, made by the ones who broke the rules.
Better photography june 2016
anniversary special anniversary special anniversary special
Manoj Jadhav Toni Frissell Swapan Parekh
The role of analogue in his Transforming the way Fashion, with a
intensely creative process the genre was perceived documentary aesthetic
84 90 96
Cecil Beaton
Natasha Desai finds herself transported to a world of high society and the
glamour of the West in the twenties through Cecil Beaton’s portraits.
T
here is a 1962 BBC interview, in The Way of the Stage
which Sir Cecil Beaton is asked As he describes himself in his
which from his roles as author, Photobiography, he was “completely
designer, photographer, painter stagestruck” from a very early age. His love Beaton despised
and so on, gives him most artistic for grandiose indulgence and study of Marilyn Monroe, in
spite of some of her
satisfaction. To which he replied, “I don’t Edwardian and Victorian photography portraits being his most
know. All I know is I don’t get stale.” seeped into his sets, designs and dramatic famous photographs.
“I’m after imagery. He would also be regularly changed the way the world saw fashion
commissioned by The Metropolitan photography. He would often juxtapose
expressing Opera, the Royal Ballet of London, the his elegantly clad models against half-
Beaton was also
an avid scrapbooker.
my instinct... American Ballet Theatre for his set design. done brick and mortar backgrounds, pose His scrapbooks
My goals have His Vogue editorial assignments saw them with egg-beaters and other random featured images by
contemporaries, rivals,
nothing to do him at his peak indulgence, prompting objects—which were considered bizarre
protégés, sketches,
the statement, “His baroque is worse for his time—and also alluded to his love
with others. ” contact sheets
than his bite.” In that time, he completely and understanding of surrealism. and cards.
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82
The First Celebrity Photographer Beaton had an intense energy that was
While he was pathbreaking in terms forever unsatisfied unless doing something Cecil Beaton was a
of his aesthetic, he was also one of the new and creative. He would change hats keen diarist, and kept
several notes about
first ‘celebrity photographers’, regularly with ease and his advice to artists stood his interactions with
photographing the Royal family, making true until his death, where he taught celebrities and subjects.
him much sought after in high society. himself to shoot and paint, in spite of These volumes were
With the outbreak of World War being paralysed at the age of 68. “Be daring, filled with ruthless
observations during
II, he proved his prowess as a skilled be different, be impractical, be anything his time as a top
documentary photographer as well. His that will assert integrity of purpose and celebrity photographer.
image of a 3-year-old who was affected by imaginative vision against the play-it- Pictured below is
an air raid made a poignant statement as it safers, the creatures of the commonplace, Mick Jagger, whom
he called “sexy, yet
appeared on the cover of LIFE magazine. the slaves of the ordinary.” completely sexless.”
“Beaton was
a virtuoso of
found light.
He understood
backlight,
sidelight,
open shade.
No photographer
had a longer or
more intense 83
romance with
the window.” —
Annie Leibovitz in
the prologue to
the book Beaton:
Photographs
LIFE magazine
had once described
Sir Cecil Beaton as
“England’s crack society
photographer.” Ironically
enough, he went on to
shoot five of their cover
images and well as have
several photographs
featured in the magazine
as well.
Sir Cecil Beaton had an illustrious career for over 50 years and his portraits always showed his subject in the best possible light. All the images featured here are
©The Cecil Beaton Studio Archive at Sotheby’s. His exhibition is currently on at Chatsworth , UK and will continue until 3 January, 2017.
84
Manoj Jadhav
Natasha Desai falls headlong into the raw and ethereal images of Manoj Jadhav, to
understand what makes him one of the most distinct visual artists today.
O
ne of the things that draws influencing his aesthetic today, driving him
people to Manoj Jadhav’s to seek emotion, the extraordinary in the
portraits is the sheer intensity ordinary and beauty in everything.
of emotion that they exude.
Throughout his life, he has Already Out of Fashion
Although his work
sought connections with people unlike More than anything, Manoj considers is much different, he
Witnessing emotions, himself, people who would inhabit himself to be a visual artist. His tool, has always been a fan
expressions, interactions domains much different than his and forged photography. “By the time a person of Mary Ellen Mark,
that touch one deeply, because of the way she
interesting links with them. As a result, views my image, it is already obsolete.
and being able to express would involve herself in
these feelings was what these interactions have become a deep In the sense that, I have moved on from her projects and bring
Manoj lives for. part of him and are one of the key factors it. The biggest high for me is in creating out their soul.
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86
In his series, Portrait the image. The actual image itself is real, it feels like the exception when it
of a Culture, Manoj a byproduct of my experiences, my should be the norm,” he says. “I’m not
has put together what
expression. It is like a leftover thought, a doing anything great. I’m just shooting
he captured from
his impressions and slice of time in the past,” says Manoj of his what I see and believe in.”
observations of various startlingly beautiful imagery. Manoj’s collaborations with brands
people. A single portrait He finds it almost incredulous that usually stem from his interpretation and
of his, is a montage of
several people. when he tries to portray something real understanding of them. Rarely does it
through his portraits, he is met with such follow a set brief where he is directed
awe and wonder. “We are constantly about what to shoot. Often, one will find
bombarded with images of perfection, Manoj indulging in designing his set, and
which is not what I’m trying to do at all. working with the fabrics too. “I’m very
Which is why when I do something so difficult to please,” he say with a hearty
chuckle. “I like collaborating with people beginning, he has believed in his own
who bring their own flavour to the work.” ability to translate his vision with finesse.
As a fledgling, he admired the works of
“Any type of
On Constantly Creating Man Ray, Richard Avedon, Nobuyoshi
photography that has no
Belief in one’s ability is something Manoj Araki, Diane Arbus, Raja Deen Dayal and emotion in it, just serves
cannot stress on enough. From the very Raghu Rai amongst others, but never to bore me.”
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sought to be like them. He just wanted into your camera, carry on with your heart,
to create. And create he did. Manoj, the soul and plan. The physical connection to it
constant experimenter, works with different is palpable.” Looking at his images, however,
film, emulsions, mediums all with the aim one is unable to discern what medium he
of translating his vision. He is however, has chosen to express himself through and
partial to analogue. “With film, you load it there is an immense learning in that.
Manoj Jadhav (@imanojj on Instagram) is a visual artist based in Mumbai. His influences come from typography, calligraphy, graphic art, fine art, cinema and more.
He believes in honing his vision not only through photography, but a wide range of visual art. You can see more of his stunning work at www.manojjadhav.com.
Toni Frissell
Raj Lalwani looks back at the pioneering
work of Toni Frissell, at her time, the world’s
foremost female fashion photographer.
T
oni Frissell is one of those giants
in fashion photography, who
despite a dedicated practice
of only six years, turned the
medium around on its head.
Fashion photography had reached a
certain lull in the late twenties, when
most of the imagery in Vogue was
dominated by the studied restraint of
Baron de Meyer and Edward Steichen.
Both legends, of course, but it needed
a Frissell to enter the system and shake
it up. Stumbling into photography
after having trained as an actress, Toni
considered herself to be a progressive 91
woman, who wanted to portray feminity
in a less passive way. A photoshoot,
according to her, was a conversation
between equals.
Greatly influenced by A Woman’s Place is in the Darkroom against neutral backgrounds, Toni Frissell
cinema, Frissell always There was a mutual sense of freedom and would elongate the human form and seek
strived to get a sense of
there was a gender connect, perhaps, drama within the human body, a visual
the immediate in fashion,
which before her, was for Frissell caught an unselfconscious language that the legendary Jeanloup
classical but often static. spontaneity that made the models Sieff would make his own, a few decades
women (and human) first, and models later. Her rise is also parallel to the rise of
later. Her search for realism would make beauty photography, a subset in the world
her constantly experiment in terms of of fashion that signifies an emphasis on
locations and composition, seeking bold the appearance of the model herself (or
diagonals within her frames. Using wide- himself), as opposed to what she (or he)
angle lenses and low-angle perspectives was wearing.
Only a fraction of
Frissell’s work has
been seen by the world.
Her entire archive was
donated to the Library of
Congress, but because
of its sheer volume, it
hasn’t been completely
digitised yet. Sadly, the
excessive nature of her
picturemaking also meant
that because of the lack
of ‘rarity’, the art world
hasn’t really given her
legacy its due.
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95
that she brought to her fashion imagery Just a few years later, an inspired young For Frissell,
that stays incredibly fresh, even eighty years Lillian Bassman joined Harper’s Bazaar, photography was part
engagement, part
later. Her photograph of the submerged on her route to becoming one of the most
activism and part
girl, faceless in anonymity and grace, is influential fashion photographers of her catharsis. She originally
shockingly contemporary even today, and time. We explore Bassman’s story a few took up the camera to
one has to doublecheck the dateline of pages later in this issue. But one cannot cope with the illness of
her mother, the death of
1947, to realise that the contemporary is in forget that while there were a few women her brother and the end
the traditional. All that has to be done, has who preceded Toni Frissell in fashion of her engagement.
been done before, but it takes questioning photography, she was undoubtedly the first
practitioners like Toni Frissell, to challenge to achieve real prominence, paving the path
the status quo and strive to go beyond. for several others.
Toni Frissell started working in fashion in 1931. According to her, she did not shoot indoors primarily because “I don’t know how to photograph in a studio. I never did know
about technical points and still don’t.” In 1941, she covered World War II as a freelance photographer, and later, was the official photographer of the Women’s Army Corps.
96
Swapan Parekh
Better photography june 2016
anniversary special
S
wapan Parekh is not as much
a storyteller, as he is a visual
illusionist. He may tell you little
about the product, but in creating
an entire tangential world around
it, he interweaves tiny details that explore
its very essence. His fashion is decidedly
anti-conformist without being anti-fashion,
away from the studios, away from the tight
and bright, a hovering, wide-angle view that
embraces a documentary aesthetic, that
reflects his early years. The characteristic
wit, like the Killer jeans campaign and its
compositional wizardry, could only have
been born in the street. Even with intricately
produced campaigns, the rare one that had
dizzying budgets, the effort was in making
it effortless, in creating a vibe around a
young couple in Jaisalmer and making you
a part of their moment, making you believe.
In stark contrast to the overtly glossy world
of today, the allure of fashion in the world
of Swapan Parekh is in staying within the
periphery of the real, and yet wandering
into the outrageousness of the imagined. 97
The photos are surrounded by a sense of the
immediate, but the reality is manufactured.
98
99
Whether it was a
lifestyle campaign for
Jaisalmer cigarettes
(previous spread) or
the celebrity portraits
(on this page) for TOI,
Parekh’s work has always
been driven by a strong
sense of authorship.
With unparallelled
freedom, he would
conceive, produce, shoot,
process the film and
print on his own terms,
with the image being
used without cropping or
manipulation, often with a
photo credit.
100
101
“Photography
of calibre is
an ability, not
an unending
discussion.
Just like merely
talking about
exercise is never
going to give you
a great body.”
102
103
With a career spanning over three decades, Swapan Parekh is widely acclaimed to have brought in a documentary aesthetic to Indian advertising photography whilst
simultaneously pursuing contemporary bodies of personal autonomous work. “Photography happens to me a picture at a time.”
106
B e t t e r P h o t o g r a P h Yy june 2016
Young Voice s
Young Voices
in Fashion & Portraiture
aman makkar
I was once told, “the day you feel that your
aesthetic is formed is the day you can put
your feet up.” This has stayed with me and
consequently, I always find my vision and
aesthetic in a state of flux. Paying immense
attention to detail, understanding the
different demands of each shot and partying
hard after a job well done are qualities that
I find myself constantly honing. 107
june 2016 B e t t e r P h o t o g r a P h Yy
Young Voice s
Young Voices
in Fashion & Portraiture
rema chaudhary
109
june 2016 B e t t e r P h o t o g r a P h Yy
gre at master s
Lillian Bassman
Sakshi Parikh ponders over the life of Lillian Bassman, one of
the most influential fashion photographers of the last century.
(1917–2012)
L
illian Bassman is the unsung costumes, but explored the way they evoked
revolutionary of fashion emotions. She added meaning to these
photography. Her vast archive of photographs by reaffirming what women
photographs, shot largely between wanted to feel when they wore the clothes
the forties and the seventies, broke she projected. She directed her subjects
new ground as compared to the fashion with precision and finesse, transforming
photography of the day. The photos were the ordinary into extraordinary, one frame
not about models standing awkwardly in at a time. Her photographs were more than
110
A Report to Skeptics,
Suzy Parker, 1952.
Bassman’s photographs
are romantic and turn
blur into a surprisingly
focused expression of
feminine feeling.
Better PhotograPhy
g r egat
r e at
m ast
m aster
e rs s
111
114
“As an art
director, Lillian
changed the
way we see
fashion. As a
photographer she
changed the way
we see women
and as an artist
she changed
the way we see
the world.”
—Glenda Bailey,
Editor-in-Chief,
Harper’s Bazaar
115
experiments. Her alchemy involved using models, and groomed them with dexterity. Barbara Mullen,
tissues, gauze, cigarette smoke and double She made them comfortable during shoots Harper’s Bazaar,
exposure for diffusion along with potassium by asking them questions about their lives,
New York, 1958.
She may be the only
cyanide to bleach and burn for deeper tones. which gave her permission to enter their photographer who can
She expressed her true self through these world as a friend rather than an intruder. make a hat seem less like
processes that removed the hardness out of “Lillian truly lived through her eyes. a fashion prop than an
extension of a woman’s
the pictures, and added obscurity, mystery Her sureness was in her mind, through
emotional state.
and a timeless elegance. Her sophisticated which she created magic. She helped
imagery included photogenic drawings that people know their true self by freeing their
exude a fluidity of movement. emotions. She had this real communication
As a photographer, Lillian always with the models, and the pictures prove it,”
maintained great chemistry with all her says American model Carmen Dell’Orefice.
116
“I asked the
models that
posed for me
to tell of their
beauty through
their hands, as if
those hands were
holding a special,
unique moment.
I was always
interested in an
immediate way of
communicating,
and the hands
do just that.”—
Lillian Bassman
117
Lillian photographing
an advertising campaign
Estate of Lillian Bassman ©
118
Estate of Lillian Bassman ©
Mary Jane Russell, She worked her way around intimate the end it’s up to the photographer to
Harper’s Bazaar, angles, seeing a side of the model that not find it.”
New York (Hat), 1950.
many photographers saw, a side that was A strong connection with dance is
As someone who often
photographed women powerful, intense and extremely feminine. apparent in her practice, both as an elated
wearing hats, this Lillian always said, “Glamour is the way form of recreation and something that
image is described as that a woman moves. It’s the way her chin helped her understand subtle gestures.
her most hat-centric,
with the pose being a comes out of her throat and the way she After more than two decades of working
stark departure from holds her shoulders and her body. It’s the as a photographer, constant frustration
the norm. feeling that a woman feels about her. But at with the disillusioned state of the industry
120
Political Ties
A truck driver stands on the divider to
greet Arvind Kejriwal, Delhi Chief Minister
during one of his rallies in Punjab. As he
reaches out enthusiastically, it symbolises
Kejriwal’s efforts to get a footing in Punjab
in the 2017 state elections.
Bharat Bhushan,
Hindustan Times
Photograph by:
Eugène Atget Memoirs of Old Paris
E
Image Source: ugène Atget tried his hands at more than one vocation before taking up
J Paul Getty Museum photography and starting his lifelong project of documenting his beloved Paris,
before it was consumed by the throes of modernisation. However, unlike the
pictoralist trend that dominated photography aesthetics of the time, he adopted
a documentarian approach while recording the city’s undiscovered landscapes,
culture, history, artefacts and architectural splendours. In this inventory, he also included
multiple shop windows and displays from around Paris, many of which featured vivid
mannequin and product displays.
It was also during this time, in the mid 1880s, when haute couture made its way into
women’s fashion and Paris became the world’s fashion capital. Yet, keeping true to his style
of documentation, Atget avoided photographing subjects related to fashion or individual
display. Instead, he focused on making pictures of storefronts and how shopkeepers
showcased their products, like in this image shot in 1912. But, to simply say that Atget
photographed shop windows would be undermining his work. The reflections of Paris’
old buildings and structures on the glass displays, along with the stationery mannequins,
provided a juxtaposed view of the city’s spiral into consumerism and its dominating hold
on the fashion industry.
Although Atget strived to create documents and not art, the metaphorical meanings
in his later photographs got him the admiration of Man Ray, who went on to publish his
images. He also purchased multiple prints and urged many more of his fellow Surrealists to
take note of Atget’s pictures of the storefront mannequins, and their dreamlike comparison
to the human form. Unfortunately, while he was alive, Atget did not receive the kind of
acclaim he deserved for his work. He became widely known, only after Berenice Abbot
brought his work into the public eye in 1930.