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w w w. h a r p e r s b a z a a r. c o m / u k

JUNE
2019
£4.80

IN ALL HER GLORY

Rosie
Huntington
Whiteley
wears
Karl Lagerfeld’s
Chanel couture
finale
@
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CONTENTS JUNE 2019

ON THE COVER
110 In all her glory:
Rosie Huntington-Whiteley
wears Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel
couture finale

FEATURES
110 LA VIE EN ROSE Avril Mair talks
to Rosie Huntington-Whiteley
about missing England, overcoming
insecurity and the seismic effects
of motherhood
142 OUT OF THE SHADOWS
The Serpentine’s latest exhibition
celebrates the work of Lee Krasner,
a brilliant artist previously known
only for being Jackson Pollock’s wife

FASHION
124 SEA OF TRANQUILLITY
A galaxy of glorious gowns cast a
glittering spell at the water’s edge
146 THE WINGS OF A DOVE
Soar to heavenly heights in haute
couture plumage of feather trims,
embellished silk and flowing,
crystal-adorned tulle

STYLE
47 10 THINGS WE LOVE
Sophisticated straw hats, polka-dot
prints, high-flown hairbands and
damselfly diamonds…
54 MY MOODBOARD The British
husband-and-wife designers of Preen
reveal how they drew on the bold
PHOTOGRAPH: ALEXI LUBOMIRSKI

56
originality of Vita Sackville-West
for their latest collection
THE STYLE GUIDE How to
PAGE
110
Rosie Huntington-
wear this season’s monochrome Whiteley photographed
67 MY LIFE, MY STYLE Step inside by Alexi Lubomirski in
Hayley Bloomingdale’s light-filled Dior Haute Couture
London home

June 2019 | | 25

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CONTENTS

PAGE
124
A Schiaparelli Haute
Couture look from ‘Sea
of tranquillity’, shot by
Agata Pospieszynska

ACCESSORIES 92 CAN YOU LEARN TO BE 101 WOMEN’S CHAMPION The


73 MY FAIR LADY Elegant bags, A LEADER? Discover how to gallerist Ursula Hauser on raising
boots, hats and heels for an Audrey stand tall, speak confidently and the profile of overlooked female artists
Hepburn-style summer Season project an aura of authority 102 ALL FIRED UP An author with a
passion for ceramics recalls a winter
JEWELLERY TALKING POINTS of fevered creativity, throwing pots
84 HIGH SOCIETY How Cartier has 96 A STEP IN TIME Manolo Blahnik’s while crafting her vivid debut novel
added elegant élan to the most august masterpieces go on display amid the 103 GOLDEN HOUR After a lifetime
of British events, from a famous ball treasures of the Wallace Collection of painting for personal pleasure,
in 1930s Mayfair to the Duke and 98 THE GLORY OF THE GARDEN Luchita Hurtado is finally stepping
PHOTOGRAPH: AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA

Duchess of Cambridge’s wedding Penelope Lively on her enduring love into the spotlight
86 RAYS OF LIGHT Our contemporary for the Chelsea Flower Show 103 REIGN SUPREME A new book
take on a legendary night of a 99 A ROYAL EDUCATION The writer recalls how Britain fell for the ultimate
thousand sparkling gems of the TV drama Victoria describes Sixties girl band – and vice versa
how she drew racy inspiration from 104 OF LOVE & LIBERTY Erica Wagner
AT WORK the young Queen’s diaries on Naomi Wolf ’s heartfelt manifesto
91 PEACHY KEEN Give businesswear 100 PASTORAL HARMONY Succumb for free speech and understanding
an invigorating update in delicate, to the rustic romance of Garsington 105 THE GARDEN PARTY Colourful
brighter, warmer shades Opera’s entrancing auditorium accoutrements for outdoor gatherings

28 | | June 2019

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CONTENTS

PAGE
168
Make-up and
BEAUTY BAZAAR
168 COMING UP ROSY Put a cheery
glow in your cheeks this season
skincare for a fresh, 173 MY MOODBOARD Sylvie and
healthy complexion, Olivia Chantecaille on their brand’s
photographed by chic collaboration with de Gournay
Betina du Toit 175 THE SIXTIES REVIVAL How to
bat your lashes with beatnik glamour
in the latest take on classic eyes

ESCAPE
178 A BREATH OF FRESH AIR
Justine Picardie takes to the verdant
slopes of Mont Blanc to experience
the Alps in glorious summertime
180 THE GRAND TOUR Check into
grandes dames hotels that offer the
finest luxury and service in Europe

FLASH!
182 SPIRIT OF UNITY International
Women’s Day saw Bazaar and a host
of inspirational guests celebrate
solidarity at two uplifting events

REGULARS
37 EDITOR’S LETTER
38 CONTRIBUTORS
106 HOROSCOPES June in the stars.
By Peter Watson
184 STOCKISTS
194 WHY DON’T YOU… get set for
Wimbledon with a tote-y fruity
beauty from Gucci?

SUBSCRIBE to
HARPER’S BAZAAR
For this month’s fabulous
subscription offers
turn to page 42, or ring 0844 322 1768

PHOTOGRAPH: BETINA DU TOIT

COVER LOOKS All prices from a selection. Above far left: Rosie Huntington-Whiteley wears sequined swimsuit; matching cap; sequined tulle veil, all Chanel Haute Couture. White gold, pearl and diamond ring,
Chanel Fine Jewellery. Above near left (subscribers’ cover): pleated dress with veil, Dior Haute Couture. White gold and diamond earrings; white gold and diamond ring, both Dior Joaillerie. See Stockists for details.
Styled by Miranda Almond. Hair by Christian Wood for Wella Professionals at the Wall Group. Make-up by Hung Vanngo at the Wall Group. Manicure by Ana Maria at the BA Reps, using Dermelect Persuasive.
Photographs by Alexi Lubomirski. Above centre (limited-edition cover available exclusively at the Wallace Collection): sketch of the Bricamina ankle-boot (2014), courtesy of Manolo Blahnik. Above near right
(limited-edition cover available exclusively at Garsington Opera): photograph: Stephen Wright/courtesy of Garsington Opera. Above far right (limited-edition cover available exclusively at the Barbican Art Gallery):
Palingenesis (detail; 1971) by Lee Krasner, Collection Pollock-Krasner Foundation © the Pollock-Krasner Foundation ARS, NY and DACS, London 2019, courtesy Kasmin Gallery, New York

30 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | June 2019 www.harpersbazaar.com/uk


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.COM/UK
FASHION BEAUTY CULTURE BRIDES TRAVEL BAZAAR AT WORK

IN THE
PINK
Our cover star Rosie Huntington-Whiteley shares her beauty
secrets in this exclusive backstage video

PHOTOGRAPHS: ALEXI LUBOMIRSKI, DAMON HEATH, FELICITY INGRAM, COURTESY OF CHANEL

ALL CLEAR G R E AT L E N G T H S FAC E O F T H E F U T U R E


Expert advice on how to achieve Polished ponytails, glossy locks and Embrace the latest make-up styles
smooth, blemish-free skin with a natural eye-catching accessories are just three of with matte red lips, smoky eyes, bold
glow and a flawless finish this season’s most striking hair trends brows and a gentle sweep of blusher

O N L I N E N OW AT

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Published on 2 May

JUSTINE PICARDIE JACQUELINE EUWE


Editor-in-chief Managing director
Personal assistant to the managing director LEANE BORDER-GRIFFITH
Creative director JO GOODBY
Deputy editor/Bazaar At Work director LYDIA SLATER Associate publisher SHARON DAVIES-RIDGEWAY
Managing director, beauty JACQUI CAVE
Group managing editor CONNIE OSBORNE Heads of fashion and luxury LEE BROWN, MILES DUNBAR
Workflow director/chief sub-editor DOM PRICE Fashion and luxury account executive ROSIE CAVE
Assistant to the editor ELLA PHILLIPS Watches and jewellery director ANNA O’SULLIVAN
Watches and jewellery manager OLIVIA HORROCKS-BURNS
FASHION Director of travel DENISE DEGROOT
Fashion director AVRIL MAIR Director of motors JIM CHAUDRY
Global fashion director CARINE ROITFELD Managing director, fitness and health ALUN WILLIAMS
Executive fashion and jewellery director KIM PARKER Client Direct director EMMA BARNES
Bookings director KIAAN ORANGE Italian and Swiss agent SAMANTHA DI CLEMENTE
Style director-at-large LEITH CLARK Managing director, Hearst Brand Services JUDITH SECOMBE
Senior fashion editors MIRANDA ALMOND, CHARLIE HARRINGTON
Junior fashion editors ROSIE ARKELL-PALMER, TILLY WHEATING, Group agency director SARAH TSIRKAS
ROSIE WILLIAMS Regional director DANIELLE SEWELL
Bookings assistant LAURA MORRISSEY Heads of luxury, agency LEE BAILEY, CHARLOTTE HOLLANDS
Senior fashion co-ordinator SOPHIE CHAPMAN Business manager JESSICA OWEN
Senior fashion assistant HOLLY GORST Head of classified LEE RIMMER
Fashion assistant GEORGIA MEDLEY
Production director JOHN HUGHES
Fashion intern CRYSTALLE COX
Production manager GRETA CROAKER
Contributing fashion editor FLORRIE THOMAS
Senior advertising production controller PAUL LOCKETT
FEATURES
Associate editor FRANCES HEDGES Features director HELENA LEE Managing director, events and sponsorship VICTORIA ARCHBOLD
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Contributing literary editor ERICA WAGNER
Marketing and circulation director REID HOLLAND
BEAUTY AND HEALTH Head of consumer sales and marketing JAMES HILL
Beauty director KATY YOUNG Digital marketing director SEEMA KUMARI
Beauty editor SIÂN RANSCOMBE Head of promotions marketing AOIBHEANN FOLEY
Senior contributing editor, beauty HANNAH BETTS Head of subscription marketing JUSTINE BOUCHER
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HEARST MAGAZINES UK
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EDITOR’S LETTER

A Chanel Haute
Couture look from

SUNSHINE
‘The wings of a dove’
(page 146). Below:
Lee Krasner’s ‘Mister
Blue’ (page 142)

& ROSES
I am writing this on a drizzly day, when London’s grey skies seem to
be mirroring the gloomy Brexit negotiations. As a natural optimist,
however, I cannot help but see a silver lining in the rain clouds, at
least when it comes to the prospects for midsummer. True, we may
still be living in an age of uncertainty when June dawns; though
whatever the political climate, at least the newly
PHOTOGRAPHS: RICHARD PHIBBS, OLIVER HOLMS, COLLECTION OF RON DELSENER, © THE POLLOCK-KRASNER FOUNDATION, IMAGE COURTESY OF SOTHEBY’S 2018, PIXELATE. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS

planted roses and honeysuckle in my garden


will have benefited from the spring showers,
along with the country’s hedgerows and
meadows of wildflowers.
Indeed, in fashion as in horticulture, one
cannot exist without an innate sense of hopeful-
ness; for, just as all good gardeners look ahead
towards the coming season, so too do we
at Bazaar. The glorious, glittering sequined
costume worn by Rosie Huntington-Whiteley
in this issue first appeared on the catwalk in the
EDITOR’S bitter cold of January, as the closing look of what turned out to be
CHOICES Karl Lagerfeld’s final couture show for Chanel. Bazaar’s fashion
My oldest son is headlining director, Avril Mair, turned to me as soon as we saw it, and whis-
Wilderness this year, which means I’m pered: ‘That’s our June cover’; while Rosie herself
considering acceptable options for festival was similarly smitten, describing it as ‘a truly
dressing, in such a way that won’t embarrass iconic piece’.
him. Hopefully, this sturdy jacket and jeans will And we will continue to celebrate the art of
cover all eventualities; though I can’t help but couture, which is in itself an act of faith in past
remember my first festival experience, as a traditions, as well as an expression of hope for the
little girl, when my very cool mother took future. Great couturiers – and Karl Lagerfeld was
me to the Rolling Stones free concert one of the greatest of our time – create beautiful
in Hyde Park in 1969, and kaftans sculptures for the human body to wear; but they
£790 were de rigueur… also have the gift of imagining the life that might
Holland &
Holland be lived in a dress. And we share their ambition –
for a genuinely memorable fashion story relies as
much on the character and spirit of the model
£1,300
Dior £2,370 as on the clothes that she wears (especially when
Tudor
being photographed outdoors on a blustery British day).
So here’s to having the courage of our convictions, and to the
£95 promise of summertime. With any luck, you’ll be reading this in
Levi’s
dappled sunlight, and filled with good cheer; but if by happenstance,
these are not yet in evidence, there is every chance that you’ll soon
find them conjured up by Bazaar…
£340
Birkenstock x
Valentino

£5,700
Cartier

Justine Picardie
PS: Don’t miss the chance to subscribe to Harper’s Bazaar
£85
Weekend – turn to page 42 for this month’s offer.
Max Mara
June 2019 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | 37
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CONTRIBUTORS

HAYLEY
BLOOMINGDALE
Moda Operandi’s director of
special projects (below) honed
her business skills in New York,
working for Tory Burch, Diane
von Furstenberg and Carolina
Herrera before joining her
friend Lauren Santo Domingo
at the online fashion platform.
She welcomes us into her
vibrant Notting Hill
home on page 67.
Your favourite summer
occasion ‘Spending time at my
husband’s family house in the
South of France.’
A treasured summer memory
‘I went to a sailing camp in the
San Juan Islands for many years
as a child and had an incredible ROSIE
time. I still have best friends HUNTINGTON-
from those days.’ ALEXI WHITELEY
Your perfect picnic
ingredients ‘Chilled rosé,
LUBOMIRSKI PENELOPE ‘Since becoming a mum, I’ve
a baguette, cheese and Our contributing felt so much more confident
my husband.’ photographer, who has
LIVELY within my own skin. It’s been
Your dream holiday captured Ashley Graham, Julia ‘A superb assembly of the very life-changing,’ says the model,
destination ‘Oman. It’s only Roberts and Kate Winslet, best of every possible plant, a actress and businesswoman
a few hours away from among many others, for blaze of colour, a demonstration (above). In our cover story on
London, so it’s perfect for Bazaar, shoots Rosie of variety,’ says the Booker page 110, she discusses the
some weekend sun.’ Huntington-Whiteley for this Prize-winning author of the challenges, rewards and
A beauty travel essential month’s cover story (page 110). Chelsea Flower Show (page emotional maelstrom of
‘Dr Barbara Sturm’s Glow The author of four books, he 98). Having cherished gardens motherhood, and the launch
Drops and Lypo-Spheric will donate all proceeds from since childhood – and written of a new career venture, the
Vitamin C packets.’ his latest – a children’s title, a memoir inspired by their digital-beauty forum Rose Inc.
Thank You for My Dreams, formative influence – Lively A treasured summer memory
(published on 13 June) – to the never fails to find magic amid ‘Walks on the beach with my
charity Concern Worldwide, the mania at the yearly event. son in Malibu, or dancing in
for which he serves as Your favourite summer Ibiza until the sun comes up.’
a global ambassador. occasion ‘The first annual trip Your perfect picnic
Your favourite summer to Sunshine Garden Centre in ingredients ‘Ham and cheese
occasion ‘Our family holiday north London to get trailing sandwiches, and scones, jam
to Italy.’ geraniums for my window box, and clotted cream.’
A treasured summer memory and much else.’ A secret garden sanctuary
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALEXI LUBOMIRSKI, HARRY CROWDER

‘Floating on the water with my A treasured summer memory ‘As children, we would go to
son, just talking about life.’ ‘Sunday-lunch parties in the Hotel Endsleigh in Devon in
Your perfect picnic garden at our home in the summer and play in the
ingredients ‘Berries, Oxfordshire over 25 years ago.’ gardens. I look forward to
berries, berries.’ Your perfect picnic taking my son for the first time
Your dream holiday ingredients ‘Tuna mayo brown and exploring the beautiful
destination ‘Sardinia.’ bread sandwiches and grapes.’ grounds together.’
A secret garden sanctuary A beauty travel
‘The space between the essential ‘A silk pillowcase.’
spreading roots of a
eucalyptus-tree in the garden
in Egypt where I grew up.’

38 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | June 2019 www.harpersbazaar.com/uk


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CONTRIBUTORS

DAISY
GOODWIN
‘It never occurred to me that
the little old lady glowering
from busts and portraits could
ever have been young,’ says the
writer of the popular ITV
television series documenting
the life of Queen Victoria. As
an exhibition celebrating the
bicentenary of the monarch’s
birth opens at Kensington
Palace, she shares her
discoveries about Victoria’s
early years (page 99).
Your favourite summer
occasion ‘Jasper Conran’s
annual Dorset fête champêtre.’
BETINA A treasured summer memory
‘Watching the sun rise after
DU TOIT my first Trinity May ball

PHOTOGRAPHS: BETINA DU TOIT, COURTESY OF ELIZABETH MACNEAL


SYLVIE The South African ELIZABETH in Cambridge.’
CHANTECAILLE photographer first became
interested in taking pictures as
MACNEAL Your perfect picnic
ingredients ‘Quail’s eggs,
Since launching her a child after winning a Kodak The Edinburgh-born author celery salt, strawberries
eponymous beauty brand in pocket camera in a colouring and potter (below right) left and champagne.’
1997, the Parisian entrepreneur competition; now, she produces an unfulfilling job in A secret garden sanctuary
has harnessed the power of ethereal editorials for management consultancy to ‘I work in the London Library,
botanicals in her fragrances magazines and brands pursue her artistic passions: so St James’s Square garden is
and skincare, infusing them including Chanel and Dior. She making ceramics in her home where I go to see the sun.’
with jasmine, hyacinth and presents this season’s trend for studio, and writing a novel. Your dream holiday
ylang ylang. She reveals the glowing skin in our beauty As Picador publishes her destination ‘Antarctica.’
inspiration for her seasonal story (page 168). debut book The Doll Factory, A beauty travel essential
rose de Mai perfume in ‘My Your favourite summer she discusses the demands ‘My facialist Su-Man makes
moodboard’ (page 173). occasion ‘The air of of her dual creative incredible sheet masks that you
A treasured summer memory spontaneity attached to the processes on page 102. can wear on the plane so that
‘When I was a little girl, I spent season is something I always Your favourite summer you arrive with radiant skin.’
every summer in the South of look forward to – all those occasion ‘I love Port Eliot
France on Porquerolles Island. unplanned outings and festival. A long weekend of
It was three magical months that “seeing where the road words, music, dancing and
of barefoot bikini life.’ takes you” spirit.’ swimming, on an idyllic
Your perfect picnic A treasured summer memory estate in Cornwall.’
ingredients ‘An Australian ‘High-school holidays in a A treasured summer
goat’s cheese swimming in small South African coastal memory ‘Mackerel fishing
delicious rosemary oil; a town called Stilbaai.’ off the Devon coast.
chocolate cake; and coffee Your perfect picnic Afterwards, we took a bucket
harvested on Mount ingredients ‘Good company barbecue on a cliff-top walk
Kilimanjaro served over ice.’ and a bottle of wine can and ate freshly grilled
A secret garden sanctuary sometimes be enough, right?’ fish as the sun set.’
‘I like to imagine little fairies Your dream holiday A secret garden sanctuary
and elves sitting around a destination ‘A road trip ‘The ladies’ pond on
corner in my garden where across a land I’ve never seen.’ Hampstead Heath. It’s a
moss grows around stones.’ A beauty travel essential very special place.’
A beauty travel essential ‘Chanel Le Lift eye cream.’ Your dream holiday
‘The Chantecaille Pure destination ‘A sunny week
Rosewater and Gold in Skye with lots of hiking
Recovery Mask.’ and pub stops.’

40 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | June 2019
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AT WORK

LIVE
Join the Bazaar At Work network, for events and ideas that connect and inspire

STAND &
DELIVER
According to the Rada Business coach
Louise Collins, ‘great leaders share many
common traits’. Discover what these
are and how to develop them yourself, as
Bazaar At Work joins Rada Business for
a masterclass in Executive Presence
for Women. Using the techniques taught
to actors, you will learn breathing
techniques for successful presentation,
the postures and gestures that help you
maximise your impact, and the words
that truly engage an audience. Guests
will also receive a glass of champagne,
courtesy of Laurent-Perrier, at the event,
which will take place from 6.30pm to
8pm on 25 June at the Shop at Petersham
Nurseries, King Street, London WC2;
tickets cost £40.

PHOTOGRAPH: ANYA HOLDSTOCK

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION AND TO BOOK TICKETS TO THIS EXCLUSIVE EVENT, VISIT

W W W.HEARSTLIVE.CO.UK
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STYLE

Edited by AVRIL MAIR

The Valentino
Haute Couture

10 THINGS S/S 19 show


in Paris

WE LOVE
Raffish raffia, glitterbug jewellery and feathery fringing –
welcome to a scintillating summer

EMOTION IN MOTION
‘I don’t believe in modernist couture,’
said Pierpaolo Piccioli of a Valentino collection
that brought his audience
to tears with its unapologetic beauty.
PHOTOGRAPH: AMBRA VERNUCCIO
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G IA M BAT TI S TA VA LLI
RO C H A S

C H A N E L H AU TE CO U T U R E
C E LI N E BY H E D I S LI M A N E

From lavish trims on Chanel sleeves and


delicate flutters on Valentino sandals, feathers

VA LE NTI N O
are everywhere for S/S 19.

£75
Shrimps
£395
Simone
Rocha £140 £ 170
Miu
JW Anderson Miu

PHOTOGRAPHS: BENOÎT PEVERELLI, IMAXTREE, PIXELATE, © DIOR. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS
0
£ 26 m
d e
Er
0
£ 3 9 ci £145
£675 G u c
Simone
Dolce &
Rocha
Gabbana
£185
Jennifer TO P I
Behr
T OFF £395
H a i r ba Dolce &
nds, clip
s, b ows or Gabbana
ri bbons…
no head
should
be lef t u
nadorn
ed t h is
season.

£795
£9 5 Gucci £270
Sim £1,400 Versace
one
Ro Dolce &
ch a Gabbana

48 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | June 2019 www.harpersbazaar.com/uk


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STYLE

The Dior
Haute Couture
S/S 19 show

The circus came to town for Dior couture –


literally – as Maria Grazia Chiuri
used the strength and beauty of Mimbre,
London’s all-female troupe of acrobats,
to showcase a collection of glamour and glitter.
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£760
Gucci
STYLE
Chain bag,
£1,265
Stella
McCartney
Necklace, £390
Etro at Matches
Bracelet, fashion.com
£420 Dior

£395
Mother of
Pearl
£3,900
Dior

Necklace,
£3,150 £290 Chloé
Gucci Chain bag, at Matches
£10,525 fashion.com
Chanel

Earring (sold
singly), £155
Wald Berlin

Necklace,
from a
selection
Chanel
s,
a rl
pe

g
r in
m me
F rom hi
so
me t he golden shells to s p i re
d
of g lo r in s
the ie s of t he deep have
love
liest n
ew accessories.
£395
Roksanda
at Matches
fashion.com £775
Manolo
£265
Blahnik
Russell
& Bromley
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Pendant
necklace,
from
£2,500;
ring,
£2,400,
both
Buccellati

SKIRT THE ISSUE


Unashamedly OTT femininity
is the order of the day: if in
doubt, go for the bow.

The Milanese jeweller Buccellati


A look from
celebrates its 100th anniversary the Dior
with an original line of limited-edition pendants Haute
(in 14 different stones, including lavender jade, Couture S/S
amethyst and pink agate), all incorporating 19 show
the house’s floral logo.
C A RO LI N A H E R R E R A
PHOTOGRAPHS: IMAXTREE, GETTY IMAGES, PIXELATE. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS

MAX MARA
C E LI N E BY H E D I S LI M A N E

D O LC E & GA B BA N A

R E J I N A PYO
B U R B E R RY
B U R B E R RY

C A RO LI N A H E R R E R A

EYE THE DOTS


Mixed, matched and clashed: spot the chic yet cheery dress trend…

www.harpersbazaar.com/uk June 2019 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | 51


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STYLE Ring
Bulgari High
CHANEL Jewellery

All prices
from a
selection,
Bangle except
Chaumet where stated

Bracelet
Tiffany & Co
D O LC E & GA B BA N A

William
& Son
,

es e
ld b
e s , t i ny g o
b e je we l le d la dy b

the weather.
E TRO

se l fl i
jewe

am

ever
de ay f u l
gd
i rd
ller

h at
li n
sa

l
az
yl

nw
p
nd

m d er

’s
W it h
ets

ot
ou he mm
y

ar
e r-o u yg
njo f- p e a s , t h is s t r
yt rl p e t a l n

PHOTOGRAPHS: SCHOHAJA, IMAXTREE, GETTY IMAGES. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS


Chanel Fine
Jewellery he d
h c ou
elight s
s of an Engli

WEAR HAY WHILE


THE SUN SHINES Brooch,
Thanks to Chanel and £14,514
Roberto
Valentino, the straw hat gets Coin
a luxe upgrade this year.
Brooch
Cassandra
VA LE NTI N O

Goad

Bracelet
Cartier

Boghossian
CHANEL

Ring
Chopard
Pendant,
£2,200
Clip Annoushka
Van Cleef &
Arpels

52 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | June 2019
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STYLE

Above: the
Preen by Thornton
Bregazzi pre-fall
moodboard. Below:

MY
looks from the
collection

MOODBOARD COURTESY OF PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI. PHOTOGRAPHS: LUCKY IF SHARP, PIXELATE


MOODBOARD
The Preen designers on the aristocratic
bohemianism behind their latest collection
For their pre-fall 2019 line, Preen’s Justin Thornton and
Thea Bregazzi drew on a visit to Sissinghurst Castle, the
home of the author Vita Sackville-West. ‘Our daughters
were invited to attend a painting class there,’ Thornton
says. ‘We were given a private tour of the house by
Juliet Nicolson, Vita’s granddaughter – it was so
inspiring to hear about Vita’s life and see the gardens
she had designed.’ The alluring looks echo Vita’s
reputation for challenging gender norms, by way of
earthy tweeds and patchwork raincoats, juxtaposed
with silky blouses embellished with pussycat bows
and ostrich feathers. ‘She was in touch with both
her femininity and masculinity,’ says Bregazzi. ‘She
was truly modern.’ LUCY HALFHEAD

54 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | June 2019 www.harpersbazaar.com/uk


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alche
r
e

m
abast

y
NO 1

l
Dress up an effortlessly

a
chic jumpsuit with
a contrasting clutch
and embellished
kitten heels.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY LARA JADE

STYLED BY FLORRIE THOMAS

T H E S T Y L E G U I D E

MONOCHROME
Showcase this season’s black and white looks with sleek, alluring accessories
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SECTION
STYLE
THIS PAGE: straw hat, £270,
Annette Görtz at Liberty. Twill
top, £410, Yves Salomon. Silk
crepe skirt, £725, Zaeem Jamal.
White gold and diamond
earrings, from a selection,
Boghossian. White gold and
diamond necklace, £10,720,
William & Son. White gold and
diamond ring, from a selection,
Bucherer Fine Jewellery.
OPPOSITE: tuxedo jumpsuit,
£380, Ba&sh. Suede heels, £225,
Russell & Bromley. Embellished
clutch, £1,145, CH Carolina
Herrera. White gold and
diamond earrings, £14,000,
Bucherer Fine Jewellery. White
gold, sapphire and diamond ring,
£5,800, William & Son

nfid
co e
h

nc
wit

NO 2
m

A show-stopping hat evokes Old Hollywood glamour,


r i

b particularly when paired with sparkling jewels.


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STYLE

s hould
-
e
e

r
on

wond

NO 3
Rediscover the timeless appeal of an asymmetrical silhouette, e
r
with swathes of tulle artfully cinched at the waist.
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d le w
n i
th
ha

care

NO 4
Opt for simplicity with your
ensemble and forgo jewellery –
instead, let your handbag
wear the pearls.

THIS PAGE: suede bag, £245,


Russell & Bromley. Embroidered
tulle dress, £830, Fabiana Fillipi.
Velvet and lamb-skin cape,
£1,135, Longchamp. OPPOSITE:
tulle dress, £2,920, Vivienne
Westwood. White gold, sapphire
and diamond ring, £5,800,
William & Son. Platinum and
pink and white diamond bracelet,
from a selection; silver earrings,
£380, both Tiffany & Co

LARA JADE
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STYLE

lebr
ce a

ti
r
ze fo

on
NO 5
a u
g If the mesh gloves fit…
wear them with a
dramatically ruffled
dress and a galaxy
of diamonds.
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u red tr
t
ea
x
te

sures

NO 6
A regally ruched neckline, pretty pleated hem and
luxurious bag make an enticingly tactile trio.

THIS PAGE: poplin top, £195, Kate


Spade New York. Tulle skirt, £640,
Fabiana Filippi. Top-handle bag, from
a selection, Fregoli. White gold and
diamond ring, £4,500, Bucherer Fine
Jewellery. White gold and diamond
necklace, from a selection, William &
Son. OPPOSITE: mesh gloves, £85,
Max Mara. Structured dress, £2,130,
Issey Miyake. White gold and
diamond necklace, from a selection,
Bucherer Fine Jewellery. Platinum and
diamond earrings, £5,600; matching
bracelet, both Boodles

LARA JADE
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STYLE

waist
ly

e
egant

d
NO 7
Lend structure to

e l
a floating silk blouse
with a black satin
cummerbund, smartly
tied at the back.

THIS PAGE: silk top, £185,


Claudie Pierlot. Twill trousers,
£425, CH Carolina Herrera. Satin
cummerbund, £450, Brunello
Cucinelli. Printed leather bag,
£295, Aspinal of London. White
gold, sapphire and diamond
earrings, from a selection,
William & Son. White gold and
diamond ring, from a selection,
Bucherer Fine Jewellery.
OPPOSITE: silk jacket, £3,035,
Loro Piana. Suede bag, £1,595,
Jimmy Choo. Ring, as before

LARA JADE
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m ise t
i h
e
x
ma

minim

NO 8

al
Sometimes the
best things in life
come in small
packages, like
this bijou Jimmy
Choo bag.
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STYLE

d er th
n

e
u

bon net
NO 9
Statement accessories
add polish and poise to a
playful polka-dot gown.

THIS PAGE: taffeta dress


with bow, £1,250, CH
Carolina Herrera. Straw hat,
£270, Annette Görtz at
Liberty. OPPOSITE: leather
necklace, £390, Tod’s. Cotton
dress, £695, Paul Smith.
White gold and diamond
earrings, £6,800, Bucherer
Fine Jewellery. See Stockists
for details. Hair by Shukeel
Murtaza at Frank Agency,
using Bumble and Bumble.
Make-up by Victoria Bond,
using Chanel Les Beiges Eau
de Teint and Hydra Beauty
Camellia Water Cream.
Stylist’s assistant: Sophie
Chapman. Model: Lucia
Lopez at Next London

LARA JADE
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to the
l
ke
i
ha

rchie

NO 10
Swap soft silk for
WORDS BY BROOKE THEIS

sculpted leather in
a surprising new take
on the scarf.
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Hayley Bloomingdale
in the living-room of
her London home,
wearing dress,

MY
£9,600, Delpozo.
Shoes, £695, Jimmy
Choo. All jewellery
throughout, her own

LIFE,
MY
STYLE
Hayley Bloomingdale fills
her wardrobe and
west-London home with
chic, colourful pieces
By LUCY HALFHEAD
Photographs by HARRY CROWDER

‘O
ne of my most vivid childhood
memories is going through the
dresses in my grandmother’s
wardrobe,’ says Hayley Bloomingdale,
when we meet at her home in Notting
Hill. Bloomingdale, the director of special
projects at the online fashion platform
Moda Operandi, has style running
through her veins – she
is the granddaughter
of the department-store
heir Alfred Bloomingdale
and his wife Betsy, a
renowned hostess who
reportedly taught Nancy
Reagan everything she
knew about entertaining. ‘It sounds glamorous, In the dining-room,
‘Betsy pinned labels on but it was actually a very wearing dress,
each dress saying which beachy life,’ she says. ‘My £1,825, Gabriela
event she had worn it dad and my brothers are Hearst. Left: a
Marc Bohan sketch
to – “so-and-so’s inaugu- surfers and I didn’t set
ration” or “somebody’s foot in Hollywood until
dinner party” – and which I was in my late teens.’
handbag or shoes had completed the outfit,’ After college, she moved to New York and
marvels Bloomingdale. Consequently, she studied for a master’s degree in fashion
always made an effort to dress up when marketing at Parsons School of Design. ‘We
spending time at her grandmother’s house had such cool professors who were working
during the holidays. ‘While most of in the industry,’ she says. ‘One was the head
America wears jeans and a sweatshirt of marketing at Loro Piana and was also our
at Thanksgiving, we wore fancy patterned teacher twice a week.’ As part of the course,
leather shoes and tights.’ she completed internships at Tory Burch
Bloomingdale grew up in the Pacific and Diane von Furstenberg. ‘Working for
Palisades, on the west side of Los Angeles. Tory and Diane was amazing – they were

www.harpersbazaar.com/uk
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both so intelligent in every aspect of their


business. Diane knew everybody’s name,
from her senior team right down to the
interns and the guy who cleaned up at
night.’ She also freelanced for Carolina
Herrera: ‘I just loved the way all these
women knew exactly who they were and
what their brand was.’
Following a short stint at Ralph Lauren,
Bloomingdale was hired in 2011 as the third

STYLED BY TILLY WHEATING. MAKE-UP BY AMY BRANDON, USING NARS AND GHD. FLOWERS BY HELEN JACKSON AT PETAL & POT.
employee at a fledgling start-up, Moda
Operandi, which her friend Lauren Santo
Domingo had co-founded. ‘There was so
much to do,’ Bloomingdale
says. ‘We were offering pre-
order straight from the
runway, so we went in after

SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS. PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF HAYLEY BLOOMINGDALE, PIXELATE


shows and shot the collec-
tions through the night until
3am.’ After a relationship
break-up, she jumped at the
chance to move to London
Above: dress, with the company, which
£2,250, Markarian
now has around 300 employ-
at Moda Operandi.
Sandals, £575, ees; Bloomingdale works on
Tabitha Simmons everything from communi-
for Johanna Ortiz cations to events, branding
and business development.
‘All my friends in New York
were about to get married
and I felt like I was stuck,’ she
says. ‘I came to London and I
was like, “Yes! Nerdy British boys!” They’re
very much up my street.’ She met her
husband, the lighting designer Alexander
Stileman (better known by his childhood
nickname Dada) through mutual friends,
and they got engaged in the Lake District.

68 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | June 2019 www.harpersbazaar.com/uk


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STYLE
‘Alex and I went hiking one weekend,
and I was wearing Lululemon and a beanie Dress, £1,995, Gabriela Hearst.
hat,’ she says. ‘It was really steep, so at one Shoes, £990, Manolo Blahnik
point I sat down, picked up a rock and
said, “Let’s just take this and we’ll say that
we got to the top of the mountain and here’s A selection of
Bloomingdale’s
our rock to prove it.” Little did I know I
handbags
had just given him the perfect line.’ The
‘rock’ Stileman had in his pocket turned
out to be a beautiful bespoke Jessica dancing the night away, before grilled cheese
McCormack ring. sandwiches were served at midnight. (No
The wedding was held wonder her friends dubbed
at the Biltmore in Santa her Bride-chilla.)
Barbara, and Wes Gordon, Bloomingdale’s relaxed
one of Bloomingdale’s old- style is also evident in her
est friends, designed her apartment, which is filled
graceful, organza Carolina with chic furnishings from
Herrera dress, embroidered the Conran shop and
with California poppies. lighting by Achille Casti-
‘Honestly, I’m not the kind glioni and Lambert & Fils.
of girl who had dreamt Upstairs, clothes rails take
about her wedding her pride of place, bursting with
entire life,’ she says, ‘but my floral dresses, jeans and
grandmother was friends blazers. While her grand-
with Mrs Herrera and I’ve always loved her mother championed the elegant, modern
dresses.’ She changed into a second outfit and minimalist look of Marc Bohan at Dior
– a tiered flapper-style dress with playful from the 1960s onwards, Bloomingdale cites
light-blue bows and pearl details, perfect for a long list of brands she loves, including HAYLEY’S WORLD
Johanna Ortiz, Giambattista Valli, Proenza
Schouler, Celine, Emilia Wickstead, Saloni,
Dress,
£1,935, Rixo, Altuzarra, Luisa Beccaria and Rebecca
Emilia de Ravenel. ‘I’m good with colour, which is
Wickstead actually a problem,’ she says. ‘Whenever we
go on holiday, I have an outfit for every single
night, but during my regular life, it’s just
jeans.’ Bloomingdale’s aesthetic may be Vase, about
£325
more low-key than her grandmother’s, Paul Arnhold
yet it’s clear her passion for fashion is just
as strong.

£801
Blazé
Milano
at Moda
Operandi £426
Brock
Collection

£1,317
Khaite at
Moda
Operandi

Earrings,
£14,700
Jessica
McCormack

June 2019 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | 69
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Heart and sole

With high heels and even higher standards, the fine Italian shoemakers at René Caovilla
have been the best-kept secret of Hollywood stars for three generations
By CHARLOTTE BROOK Photograph by PAUL ZAK
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A
STYLE

udrey Hepburn was a long-standing the Caovilla story into a new chapter, while never straying too far
client of René Caovilla, yet the from its heritage. For example, he has introduced a line of trainers
family-run Italian house has no (a brave move for a house synonymous with shimmering stilettos),
record, not even a single photograph, of her wearing his shoes. It is but has added some Caovilla magic by embellishing them with
a tale that gives us three vital clues to the brand’s ethos. Firstly, precious stones. ‘Swarovski crystals are part of our DNA,’ he says.
craftsmanship: the actress famously had size eight-and-a-half feet, ‘I wanted to create something that would mean we can be with our
but because Caovilla shoes are all made by hand, the design could customers from morning to night, from the gym to a party.’ The
simply be adjusted. Secondly, discretion: it is evidently not the ‘Galaxia’, another of Edoardo’s creations, a combination of satin
Caovilla way to chase the limelight. Lastly, style: one of the 20th sandal and crystal mesh sock, has been a star piece too. ‘The design
century’s legendary icons of elegance would have chosen only the is a bit disruptive to our history – but I like to do that,’ he explains.
most beautiful shoes… His guiding principle is that whatever the style, the quality must
René Caovilla is the shoemaker to the stars that you may not yet remain the highest in the world.
have heard of. But now, with luminaries from Jessica Chastain to Whether fresh designs or old favourites, all have the label’s signa-
Nicole Kidman stepping out in the brand’s signature iridescent ture sole, sprinkled with silver sparkle. For a woman’s advice on
stilettos and a flight of boutiques opening worldwide – including, the comfort of his shoes, Edoardo, like his predecessors, consults
most recently, on London’s Sloane Street – the secret is soon to be his wife. As for inspiration, this comes to him in abundance when he
shared. Long-term devotees need not fear is submerged in the Mediterranean: he is an
change: throughout the global expansion, all ardent free-diver. ‘I have to say I’m more fish
shoes will continue to be made in the Fiesso
d’Artico workshop, 30 minutes from Venice. It All the designs than man,’ he says with a smile. ‘Designs appear
in my imagination when I swim: from the
is here that the founder, a local cobbler called
have the waves, the shapes under the water, the way
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF RENÉ CAOVILLA, STOCKSY. STYLED BY SOPHIE CHAPMAN

Edoardo Caovilla, established a small atelier the ocean reflects light and colour.’ As a boy,
crafting court shoes in the early 1930s. In 1955,
his son René took over the business, giving it his signature sole he would spend hours peering over his father’s
shoulder while he worked, and would run down
own name. It was René who was determined to
expand the brand beyond its Venetian roots, sprinkled with to the workshop every day after school. ‘It
was my favourite place to go,’ he remembers.
spearheading collaborations with couture ‘The scent of leather, the clinking machines, the
houses such as Valentino and Chanel, and silver sparkle sense of artistry…’
masterminding the ‘Cleo’, a bejewelled sandal Like his father, Edoardo is enthusiastic
with a snake-style ankle-strap. Inspired by the about weaving together new technology with
bracelets worn by Ancient Romans, it has since been seen on artisanal skills, which means that the workshop today houses
Rihanna and exhibited in New York’s Museum of Modern Art. (And laser-cutting experts alongside an embroiderer who specialises in
the moment in 2007 that the vitrine in Harrods displaying a René sewing pearls onto the finished product. Every craftsperson is
Caovilla serpent-adorned sandal was guarded by a live cobra has trained in-house, be it in lace-making, hemming or structuring the
made department-store history.) shank. Even the simplest black leather pump requires 42 separate
René’s son, another Edoardo, worked in private equity before ‘body parts’, each sourced from a different supplier. ‘People always
joining the family business 10 years ago. Edoardo, who has risen ask how long it takes to make a single shoe,’ Edoardo says. ‘But
to become COO and creative director, calls his now-retired father to me, the important question is actually, “How many generations
a ‘footwear poet’, and speaks about him and the company’s history do you need to make a pair of shoes of this quality?”’ The answer,
with deep respect. A moderniser in spirit, Edoardo’s aim is to take evidently, is three.

Left: René Caovilla


sketching his Cleo
sandal. Below: the
Grand Canal

Left: René and Edoardo


Snr in the 1950s. Above:
a work in progress in the
Venice atelier

www.harpersbazaar.com/uk June 2019 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | 71


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ACCESSORIES

Edited by AVRIL MAIR

From a
selection
Dolce &
Gabbana
ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS

MY Photograph by PAUL ZAK


Styled by ROSIE ARKELL-PALMER

FAIR
LADY
This month we’re taking inspiration from the classic film,
with perfect pieces for a sophisticated summer Season
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£ 2 ,0
ACCESSORIES E rm 20
a
Scer nno
vi n o

5 35 ara
£ M
ax
M
5
f, £ 16
£495 Scar è s
Cecilie H e rm
om
Bahnsen er, fr
Chok ection
a se l l i e r
£2,095 Ate ski
ov
Bottega Swar
Veneta

About £2,775
Roberto
Coin
£ 195
Russell
& o
Bromley 50 ho
£6 y C £295
m Erdem
J im

£260
Dolce &
Gabbana

About £855
EACH -WAY BE TS £4,195
Chanel
Chloe Gosselin
Choose black or white (or both) for glamour
worthy of the Ascot opening day
£3,300
Pomellato
£1,875
Tiffany & Co

t, n
cele ctio
a le
B r a se e r i
i
o m tel vsk
f r A o
£965 war
S
Christian
Louboutin

From a
n
selectio
e &
Dolc
na
G a b ba
PHOTOGRAPHS: LUCKY IF SHARP. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS

£825 £1,470
Salvatore
Louis
Ferragamo
Vuitton
£170
Gucci

£1,700
Kiki
McDonough

£595
Christopher
Kane

74 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | June 2019 www.harpersbazaar.com/uk


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ACCESSORIES

HYMN TO HER
Full-on femininity is de rigueur
with this candy-coloured creation
ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS: REX FEATURES. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS

Clutch, £1,290
Balenciaga

PAUL ZAK
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ACCESSORIES
Necklace, £250
£550 £1,175 Simone
Tod’s Miu Miu Rocha
Bracelet, £290
a pair Dior

Brooch,
0 £350
£ 1 , 69 er Gucci at
n d
Alexa een Matches £395
M cQ u
fashion.com Sophia
From a Webster
selection
Boodles

About £1,955
£1, Versace
8
Fe 9 0
nd
i

£645
Escada
Bracelet, £290
a pair Dior

£3 1 0

A
£91 0

r m a
io
G io rg i
n THINK PINK Miu Miu

Wear lilac in the heart of town and brin £475


g Dolce &
Gabbana
£4,990
passion to the street where you live Atelier
Swarovski

£675
Jimmy
Choo
£2,810
Pomellato
Le £375
M
Be onde
r yl

£1, 34
0
PHOTOGRAPHS: LUCKY IF SHARP. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS

Gucc
i

£2,800
Dior

Scarf, £370
Hermès
Headpiece,
£420
Maison Michel
at Matches
fashion.com
£660
Roger
Vivier

78 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | June 2019 www.harpersbazaar.com/uk


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ACCESSORIES

£1,790
Alexander
McQueen
ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS: GETTY IMAGES, REX FEATURES. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS

BELLE OF
THE BALL
Make an elegant entrance with a soignée evening bag

PAUL ZAK
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£525

ACCESSORIES Ralph
Lauren
£2,10
£695
Collection Ce l i n 0
Jimmy Hedi e by
£2,075 S lim a
ne
Choo Fope

Bangle, £350
Burberry

£2,175
Ralph Lauren
Collection

£850
Gucci

Scarf, £660
£790 Ermanno
Michael Kors Scervino
Collection

DUSK TILL DAW N


Wouldn’t it be lovely to dance all night,
garlanded
with gold in the silvery starlight? £295
Saint Laurent
£885 by Anthony
Miu Miu Vaccarello

£3,430
Prada £2,145
Saint Laurent
by Anthony
Vaccarello

£6,420
Louis
Vuitton

About Necklace,
£510 £257
Givenchy Etro £532
Tabitha
Simmons
PHOTOGRAPHS: LUCKY IF SHARP. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS

£ 1 , 56
Miu 0
Miu

About £1,270
Givenchy

£275
Simone
From a Rocha
selection
Louis
Vuitton
Hair slide,
£390
Gucci at
Net-A-Porter

82 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | June 2019 www.harpersbazaar.com/uk


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Gwen Mond’s
costume design for
the 1930 ‘Jewels
of the Empire’ ball
at the Park Lane
Hotel. Below left:
Mond representing
‘ jade’ in a Cartier
tiara (above)

HIGH
SOCIETY
Lydia Slater delves into the archives and discovers how Cartier
forged its relationship with the British aristocracy, from a spectacular
ball in 1930 to a 21st-century royal wedding

The ball’s organiser


Muriel Ashley at
the event, dressed
Right: a Cartier to repesent ‘emerald’
advert from a 1935 in a Cartier tiara
issue of Bazaar (far left)
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JEWELLERY

C lad in an exquisite black velvet gown, crowned with


an ornate diamond-and-feathered headdress and
with more brilliants blazing at her neck, décolletage,
waist and wrist, Lady Diana Cooper was undoubt-
edly the belle of the ball.
And this particular charity ball was an especially dazzling affair.
Held on 26 November 1930, in the art deco splendour of the Park
haute monde made straight for his elegant Bond Street emporium.
One of their number was the aforementioned Lady Diana Cooper,
the Duke’s daughter hailed as the loveliest woman in the world and
immortalised in fiction by writers ranging from Evelyn Waugh
and Nancy Mitford to DH Lawrence and Enid Bagnold. Appointed
‘leader of the Diamonds’, she was determined that she would not be
outshone on the night; though Muriel Ashley, the Ball’s organiser
Lane Hotel, it was themed around ‘the Jewels of the Empire’. The and a Cartier client, ran her a close second. Representing ‘emerald’,
cream of London society attended, alongside international lumi- she chose a theatrical headdress featuring a carved emerald of over
naries of stage and screen; the highlight of the evening was 47 carats, sparkling in a central lyre-shaped motif studded with dia-
a pageant of ‘living jewels’ – notable women dressed to represent monds, and edged with more emerald cabochons. Then there was
the gems sourced from the territories of the British Empire. The Gwen Mond, the artist and wife of the MP and businessman Henry
actress Gertrude Lawrence was draped in multiple ropes of black Mond. This avant-garde couple had caused a sensation earlier in
pearls, the intrepid explorer Rosita Forbes glowed with rubies and the year by commissioning an art deco drawing-room for their
Mrs AG McCorquodale, better known as Barbara Cartland, the London house, including a striking overmantel sculpture, Scandal,
prolific romantic novelist (and, later, step-grandmother to Diana, by Charles Sargeant Jagger, that satirically referenced their own
Princess of Wales) was in jade. ‘Much to our chagrin, Bridget ménage-à-trois with the novelist Gilbert Cannan, and the gossips
[Poulett, another debutante and favourite model of Cecil Beaton] who condemned it. (‘The Hon Mrs Henry Mond, the daughter
and I were told to wear coral and turquoise respectively – not dia- -in-law of Lord Melchett, is extremely artistic, and has a genuine
monds and emeralds as we had hoped,’ complained Margaret flair for interior decoration,’ was The Illustrated London News’ coy
Whigham, then the ‘deb of the year’, later the notorious Duchess of acknowledgment in its coverage of the ball.) Personifying ‘Jade’,
Argyll, whose divorce case in 1963, involving naked photographs Mond borrowed another extraordinary tiara from Cartier, Egyptian
of herself with a ‘headless man’, was a salacious society scandal. in style, featuring twinkling cornucopias overflowing with jade fruit
The stars of this Pageant of Gems were photographed in their and surmounted by two reclining birds, which she teamed with
finery and featured across numerous publications including this a profusion of necklaces and armlets. If the decision to ask Mond
one. Naturally, London’s top jewellers clamoured for the honour to wear that stone in particular was meant as an oblique comment
and publicity associated with dressing the guests; but it was to one on her reputation, then she carried it off with magnificent aplomb…
particular house that the leading ladies that Sixty detectives lined the ballroom to protect the
night turned for their finery. guests and the gems, and the glamour and extrava-
Cartier had been integral to British high gance of this event set the seal on Cartier’s position
society ever since Edward VII pronounced it at the heart of British society. Capitalising on its
‘the jeweller of kings and the king of jewell- reputation, the brand subsequently booked a series of
ers’, commissioning 27 tiaras from the maison witty full-page advertisements in Bazaar, which ran
for his 1902 coronation. Two years later, he between 1934 and 1935, showing
granted the royal warrant that Cartier holds to Left: Lady Diana elegant women enjoying the vari-
Cooper as ‘ leader of
this day – still the only foreign jewellery house ous delights of the Season – from
the Diamonds’.
to be so honoured. Below: the Duchess court presentations to gambling at
Partly, Cartier’s popularity with the smart of Cambridge in the the casino – arrayed in its bijouterie.
set was down to its inventive craftsmanship, Cartier Halo tiara on And later the same decade, Noël
made possible by the pioneering use of plat- her wedding day Coward (himself a loyal client and
inum. At a time when tiaras were de rigueur at Cartier Tank watch aficionado)
court, the lightness and strength of the alloy paid the brand the ultimate compli-
enabled the brand to create uniquely delicate, ment of a reference in his song ‘I
near-invisible settings that allowed diamonds to shine in all their Went to a Marvellous Party’: ‘We
glory. (In her novel The Edwardians, published in the same year the knew the excitement was bound to
Jewels of the Empire ball was held, Vita Sackville-West describes begin/When Laura got blind on
how a central character, Lucy, Duchess of Chevron, ‘had the family Dubonnet and gin/And scratched
jewels reset by Cartier, preferring the fashions of the day to the her veneer with a Cartier pin/
PHOTOGRAPHS: CAMERA PRESS, MARY EVANS

heavy gold settings of Victoria’s time’.) I couldn’t have liked it more…’


But the personality of Jacques Cartier, son of the founder, and the Today, while jewellery page-
man who first brought the brand to London at the turn of the century, ants may be a thing of the past,
also had a vital role to play. ‘He was completely integrated in English the mutual admiration continues.
society, a Frenchman who was an honorary Brit,’ says Laurent With its sponsorship of the Queen’s
Feniou, Cartier’s suave managing director (who has himself main- Cup polo and the Cartier Lawn at
tained the man-about-town tradition). As well as having impeccable Goodwood’s Festival of Speed, the
social credentials, M Cartier was highly attuned to changing fash- brand continues to embellish the Season; and it seemed entirely
ions: he was, says Feniou, ‘the most elegant dandy you can imagine. appropriate that the Duchess of Cambridge chose to wear the
All the tailors in Savile Row had orders from Jacques Cartier’. Cartier Halo tiara, crafted in 1936, on her wedding day. The jeweller
Naturally, then, when the theme of the ball was suggested, the of kings, yes, but even more the jeweller of queens.

www.harpersbazaar.com/uk June 2019 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | 85


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Photographs by LARA JADE


Styled by FLORRIE THOMAS

Rays of
light
Bazaar’s modern take on the legendary
London ball that saw glittering gems
brought to life on a night to remember
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All jewellery throughout


JEWELLERY
from a selection. THIS PAGE:
platinum, emerald and
diamond earrings; matching
necklace; matching ring, all
Cartier. Silk dress, £795,
Saloni. OPPOSITE: white
gold, sapphire and diamond
earrings; matching necklace;
matching ring, all Cartier. Silk
dress, £1,785, Preen by
Thornton Bregazzi
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JEWELLERY

THIS PAGE: platinum and


diamond earrings; matching
necklace; matching ring, all Cartier.
Tulle dress, £2,920, Vivienne
Westwood. OPPOSITE: platinum,
ruby and diamond earrings;
matching necklace; matching ring,
all Cartier. Cloqué dress, £2,605,
Emilia Wickstead. See Stockists for
details. Hair by Paul Donovan at
CLM Hair and Make-up, using
L’Oréal Pro. Make-up by Victoria
Bond, using Chanel Lumière et
Contraste and L’Eau Micellaire.
Manicure by Tinu Bello at One
Represents, using OPI. Stylist’s
assistant: Sophie Chapman.
Shot at Cartier Boutique, 175–177
New Bond Street. Model:
Florence Kosky at Models 1

LAR A JADE
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AT WORK

Edited by LYDIA SLATER

led by ROSIE
Sty A
AUL ZAK

RK
yP

ELL -PALME
b

£270
tograph

Bottega
Wallet, £490 Fendi at
Veneta
Matchesfashion.com
Pho

£3,560 R
Pomellato Bracelet,
£1,310
Pomellato

L’Orchidée
Corail,
Eau de £70.50
Givenchy Sisley Paris
Rosée, £62.50
for 100ml
Givenchy Rouge Coco Flash in Instinct, £31 Chanel
£1,850
Pomellato

Cardholder,
£250 Dior

£3,150
TAG
Heuer

£1,490
Burberry
Notebook,
£45
Smythson

£80

PEACHY KEEN
Fern Fans

Fan your enthusiasm for fruitful deals with perfect


pieces in succulent summer tones
SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS
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- REPORT-

Q: CAN
YOU
LEARN
TO
BE A
LEADER?
A: Developing your ability to project self-assurance is an essential skill if

By CATRIONA GRAY
you are to earn the respect of colleagues and peers

A few months ago, I visited the home of an extremely


successful CEO. Out of habit, I scanned the book-
shelves, and came across a well-thumbed copy of
Marshall Goldsmith’s What Got You Here Won’t Get
You There. A long-standing bestseller, its premise is that in order
to climb the final few rungs of the executive ladder, it is necessary to
change your behaviour. You might comfortably attain a senior posi-
tion by being an excellent employee, but in order to lead a company,
you need to develop presence. Skills not previously required –
such as commanding the attention of a room – are suddenly of vital
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AT WORK
importance. If you want to be a leader, you need to act like one.
Hence one might assume the former England footballer and
Arsenal captain Alex Scott is used to being in the spotlight. Last
summer, she became the BBC’s first female football presenter at
a World Cup; this year, she will be its lead presenter for the Women’s the only way to make yourself heard. ‘There is no gold standard for
World Cup. Her transition from player to pundit looked effortless, authority,’ says Viv Groskop, the author of How to Own the Room:
but it was in fact the result of years of hard work, with Scott fitting Women and the Art of Brilliant Speaking. ‘There is a lot of stereotyping
in a media degree and work placements with the FA and Sky Sports in this area, sometimes suggesting that women should moderate
around her gruelling training schedule, in order to prepare herself their tone to be “taken seriously”. But Joan Rivers was high-pitched
for life after her sporting career. and shrill, as well as easy to listen to, clear and
As a woman in a notoriously male- authoritative. If you communicate confidently in a
dominated field, she has learnt how way that feels authentic, you come across as pow-
to speak up and command authority. erful and in control. Choose people you’ve worked
‘I just focus on my own performance,’ with, TED talkers, or speakers you like, and see what
she says. ‘I’m not sitting there thinking they do with tone.’ That said, she cautions against
“I need to be better than him”, but ‘uptalk’ – when your voice goes up at the end of a
rather that I need to do the job to the sentence, suggesting a question. ‘It has become
best of my own abilities. My favourite a very common conversational tic and is not help-
quote is from the American tennis ful in formal professional situations,’ she says. ‘It
player Billie Jean King, who said that sounds indecisive and signals uncertainty.’
“pressure is a privilege”. Instead of Developing your communication skills becomes
looking at a stressful situation as a even more important if you decide to become your
negative, you have to flip the situation own boss. A year ago, the property
and see it as a positive. You’ve worked advisor Hannah Aykroyd made the
so hard, you’ve done the preparation Former footballer decision to make the leap from
– this is your moment and you need Alex Scott. Right: employee to entrepreneur and set up
to take it.’ Billie Jean King her own business, which, in the past
Scott’s in-depth knowledge of her in 1970 eight months has transacted on
industry means that she is not easily £60 million of London property. Yet
wrong-footed. During the World Cup, one of her (male) fellow despite having her name over the
pundits reiterated an observation that she had just made. This was door, she initially found that some
quickly highlighted on social media, but Scott had already risen of her older clients would naturally
above it. ‘I found it funny,’ she says. ‘As long as I’ve got my point across address her male employee rather than
and that point is heard, then I’m totally comfort- her. ‘Going from being an employee
able. I’ve learnt from experience that people
figure out what’s going on in the end.’
‘If you to hiring staff and being personally responsible
for every aspect of a business was a tremen-
If, like Scott, you’re prepared to put in the communicate dous leap,’ she says. ‘I’ve certainly changed as
hard graft to become a more powerful speaker, a result. I think you naturally adapt as your
there are experts on hand to help. Louise Collins confidently, you career gains momentum, but you do behave a
is a tutor at Rada Business, an outpost of the
famous drama school that runs courses on
come across as little differently. Now, when I meet a potential
client, I always allow them to speak first – it
executive presence, coaching clients on how to powerful and enables me to assess what sort of person they are
break through the glass ceiling. Much of her and what they need from me.’
work involves encouraging women to behave in control’ ‘At the earlier stages of a career, it’s good to
PHOTOGRAPHS: GEORGIA DEVEY SMITH, NINA MANANDHAR, GETTY IMAGES

more like actors – to become aware of how build relationships and be friendly, but that can
they speak and move, and how they need to present themselves to only get you so far,’ says Louise Collins, who encourages women to
command respect. be conscious of their default behaviour patterns. ‘As you move up the
‘If you look at great leaders, you will see that they share many ladder, credibility is required, and progressively higher levels of it.
common traits,’ she says. ‘A key part of their credibility is that they People will be studying you more closely.’ For some, this will mean
keep their bodies relaxed and still. When they’re sitting in a meet- a conscious effort to avoid being too friendly in a professional
ing, they’re not leaning forwards, but sitting up straight. The way capacity, and instead learning to behave more formally, adjusting
that they speak is also important – using a measured pace, pausing, body language and actions to command a greater degree of respect.
and not being afraid of silence. Good leaders tend to avoid repetition The good news is that these skills can be learnt. ‘Even some-
because their belief is that saying something once is sufficient. They thing as simple as making bigger gestures makes such a difference,’
don’t use filler words, such as “um” and “so”, and their sentences are says Collins. ‘Women need to make sure that they’re owning their
typically quite short and to the point.’ space, and physically occupying it. Because that’s something that
Such recommendations offer helpful guidance, but they’re not comes very naturally to men – you only have to glance about on
the Tube to see that.’
For tickets to Bazaar At Work’s executive-presence event with Rada
Business, see page 44.

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TALKING POINTS

Edited by FRANCES HEDGES

Manolo Blahnik’s
Fiore sandal
from 1995

BEST FOOT
FORWARD
SKETCH: COURTESY OF MANOLO BLAHNIK

Manolo Blahnik’s sculptural shoes find a home in the hallowed halls


of the Wallace Collection. Plus, Daisy Goodwin, the writer of the hit
TV show Victoria, draws inspiration from the diaries
of the young Queen; and Penelope Lively reflects on the perennial
pleasures of the Chelsea Flower Show
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A STE
PI
N
EXHIBITIONS

TI

SKETCHES COURTESY OF MANOLO BLAHNIK. PHOTOGRAPHS: CASSANDRA PARSONS, © THE WALLACE COLLECTION/COURTESY OF MANOLO BLAHNIK, LORENZO AGIUS/GETTY IMAGES, HARRY CORY WRIGHT
ME
Above: Manolo
Blahnik’s 2014 sketch
for his Traspuesto shoe,
which will be on show
at the Wallace Above: his 2014
Collection. Bottom: Bricamina ankle-boot.
his Plusanda heel Above left: the Fiore
sandal from 1995

The maestro of shoes Manolo Blahnik


on seeing his creations displayed amid the
to go on display throughout the Georgian mansion, dotted among
masterpieces of his favourite London museum the treasures. We can expect sequined boots on the staircase,
stilettos in the study and feathered mules in the Drawing Room.
By CHARLOTTE BROOK
Blahnik is charmingly uneasy about the idea of seeing his sling-

B
backs in among the Titians, Rembrandts and priceless Rococo
ehind his tiny tortoiseshell spectacles, Manolo Blahnik’s commodes: ‘I’m really scared. An exhibition! How pretentious! I’m
already owl-like eyes are growing increasingly wide. not an exhibitionist really.’ But Xavier Bray, the dynamic director
‘Give it to me!’ exclaims the fabled shoe designer. ‘Oh! I of the Wallace Collection, is unequivocally thrilled about the
haven’t seen that for years. I look better than I do now… project, having joined from Dulwich Picture Gallery in 2006 with
though I can at least laugh about that.’ He is inspecting a photo- the mission of bringing a cross-disciplinary energy to this hidden
graph of himself from a 2006 shoot for Bazaar, in which, wearing a gem of a cultural institution. It was his daring idea to defy Lady
signature Anderson & Sheppard suit, he leans louchely against Wallace’s will, which decreed that nothing was ever to be taken
a mantelpiece in the Wallace Collection. away from, or mixed in with, the precious objects within the
Blahnik was 19 when he first visited the townhouse-turned- house’s original rooms. Were the trustees shocked by such a pro-
museum – home to the exquisite furniture and art collection of posal? ‘Once I explained how the collaboration is a way to bring
Sir Richard Wallace and Lady Wallace after she new visitors through the doors to see the Wallace
bequeathed it to the nation in 1897. It became his through Manolo’s eyes, they were keen,’ he says. ‘My
favourite haunt when he moved to London to set feeling is that, so long as it’s cerebral and artistic,
up his shoe business in the 1970s, and its riches have I’m up for it.’ As he points out, the collection
inspired him ever since: he has visited annually for belongs to the British public, so it is his job to
the past 55 years. This summer, however, he will be encourage as many people as possible to come and
stopping by rather more often, following the opening enjoy it.
of an innovative exhibition in which shoes and sketches The exhibits have been curated to reso-
from the Blahnik archive will be the first ‘foreign objects’ nate with the art and decor in each room,

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TALKING POINTS

Left: a costume drawing for


Sofia Coppola’s ‘Marie
Antoinette’. Below: the
Olvida shoe from his S/S 09
collection. Below left:
Blahnik photographed for
the September 2006 issue
of Bazaar at the Wallace
Collection. Bottom: a sketch
for his Locka shoe from 2014

and reflect some of Blahnik’s many


enthusiasms. Jester-inspired boots and
sandals sporting pompoms echo the
playfully theatrical ‘fête galante’ por-
trayals of court parties by 18th-century painters in the Small Drawing
Room. In the Boudoir Cabinet, bejewelled slippers blend in with the
diamond-mounted snuff boxes. Elsewhere, in a celebration of Gallic
passion, the embroidered courts made for the protagonists of Sofia Copp-
ola’s Marie Antoinette join Boucher’s
Above: Clive
portrait of Madame de Pompadour and the Bell’s library
airborne heroine of Fragonard’s painting at Charleston, BOOKS
The Swing, who happens to be kicking photographed by
off her own delicate pink pump as she Harry Cory Wright
flies through the trees.
for Bazaar
LITER ARY
A tribute to Blahnik’s love for Britain CIRCLE
and British materials in the West Room,
in which tartan boots are juxtaposed with In praise of 30 years of the
masterpieces by Gainsborough, Reynolds
and Landseer, is especially dazzling – and
Charleston Festival
deeply personal. At different points in In 1916, the painters Vanessa Bell and
our conversation, Blahnik talks of his Duncan Grant moved into Charleston, a
affection for Charles Dickens, moorland, 16th-century East Sussex farmhouse
Notting Hill, tea, Celia Birtwell, Sir John that would soon become the rural
Soane’s Museum, David Bowie, Suffolk- haven of the Bloomsbury Group,
spun silk, the National Theatre, Victorian welcoming guests including Virginia
gas street lamps (‘much-missed’), Cecil Woolf and Vita Sackville-West. Since
Beaton (‘divine’) and Hebridean tweed 1989, it has also been home to a literary
(‘unrivalled’). He also adores Mary Beard festival reflecting the radical artistic
and thinks that a large statue of her intellect of its original inhabitants.
should be put up in her honour at the Celebrating its 30th anniversary this
government’s earliest convenience. year, the event will feature a stellar
With an honorary CBE, a devoted following that ranges from Victoria line-up of speakers, including the
Beckham to the Duchess of Sussex, and now a groundbreaking installation campaigner Gina Miller, the Tate
in a London landmark, surely Blahnik is as deserving as Beard of the ‘national director Maria Balshaw and the writer
treasure’ mantle? I suspect he will not hear of it. Naomi Wolf, as well as
Despite his status as a fashion-industry legend a special dramatised reading of Vita
and now the star of the Wallace Collection’s and Virginia by Eileen Atkins and
summer show, this is a designer who, in Vanessa Redgrave.
characteristically self-deprecating style, ELLEN PEIRSON-HAGGER
still refers to himself as ‘a shoe boy’. Charleston Festival runs from 17 to 27
‘An Enquiring Mind: Manolo Blahnik at May (www.charleston.org.uk/festival).
the Wallace Collection’ (www.wallacecollection.
org) runs from 10 June to 1 September.

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TALKING POINTS

Left, right and


below: displays
at the Chelsea
Flower Show

HORTICULTURE
in shame. Most visitors don’t give a fig
who gets what, I suspect, but simply want

THE GLORY to have a good look at as much as poss-


ible and make their own judgements.
And many of the show gardens will be

OF THE delectable, prompting an onset of garden


envy, garden aspiration, an urge to rush

GARDEN
home, junk everything and start all over
again. My daughter, who is a more knowledgeable horticulturalist
than I am, is shrewd about this; she points out that the exquisitely
planted space you are admiring is created for now, today, this week
Penelope Lively revels in the magic and majesty – it is not going to look like this at other times, in other seasons. The
perfection is not quite what it seems. All the same, much of the point
of the Chelsea Flower Show

M
of a Chelsea visit is discovery – a design idea, that amazing hellebore
you had never seen before, the clematis that would be exactly right
y problem with visits to the Chelsea Flower Show up an old apple-tree.
used to be trying to drag my husband away from The Floral Marquees are where most of the discoveries are made.
the exhibitions of lawnmowers. The difference Every plant you’ve ever heard of and plenty you haven’t; specialist
between men and women, so far as I am con- nurseries, each with its own carefully crafted display. I have the
cerned, is that men are interested in cutting grass and greatest respect for people who have
women are not. And Chelsea is cunning: it knows how DESIGNER devoted their life to the cultivation of the
dahlia, the iris, the penstemon… Theirs
to cater for everyone. Never mind the lawnmowers,
there will be an enticing display of every imaginable OF DREAMS is a dedication that affects gardens
item of garden equipment, and that is before you even Making her 10th appearance at everywhere; many of us have a treasured
get going on the plants. When it comes to those, the Chelsea Flower Show this rose (or whatever) that is the outcome
whether it is cacti, pitcher plants, acers or delphiniums year, fashion’s favourite garden of years of someone’s patient expertise.
that excite you, there will be the choicest possible designer Jo Thompson will And Chelsea is the showcase for all
specimens on view. present a contemporary this single-minded industry, a superb
Diversity. So much, too much. Many Chelsea visi- reimagining of the verdant assembly of the very best of every plant,
tors look slightly manic, and with good reason. The 18th-century village that Josiah a blaze of colour, a demonstration of
wise strategy is to have a plan: the absolutely essential Wedgwood created to house his variety – you wonder how there can
targets, the secondary ones, and then a few more objec- Staffordshire pottery empire. be so many wildly differing forms of
tives given the time and the energy. I don’t think we ever For all of us at Bazaar, hers is the flower and foliage. And, inevitably, you
achieved that, already manic after a stand-off about the garden we’ll be lingering in, with will be blown away by something:
lawnmowers. Today, I am too old for Chelsea – wouldn’t its glorious combination of simply must have one of those.
be up to the walking or the standing – but I still have flowering fennel and river ‘Life in the Garden’ by Penelope Lively
excellent access, thanks to television. Better access, birches. But she herself also (£9.99, Fig Tree) is out now in paperback.
indeed, I often think. In the past, I don’t remember recommends allowing time to
managing to see more of any of the show gardens than visit the Great Pavilion: ‘Make a
the back view of the ranks of people in front of me. On beeline for David Austin and
television, you do leisurely tours of each – plenty of Peter Beales’ wonderful
opportunity to admire or reject. And there can be displays… For me, it’s always
rejection: for me, all those gardens that are more about all about the roses.’ CB
materials than planting. Slabs of steel, concrete pillars, The Wedgwood Garden by
Left: Jo Thompson
an acreage of decking, that rusty iron pergola; garden Jo Thompson is at the Chelsea in the London
designers are in frenetic competition, chasing the inno- Flower Show (www.rhs.org.uk) garden she helped
vative idea that may make all the difference between from 21 to 25 May. to design for
Gold and Silver-gilt. There are awards for everything, the hairstylist
Sam McKnight
it can seem, and you get rather too much of that on television – the
mortified contender with a Bronze, who may as well slink off home
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HISTORY

A ROYAL EDUCATION
As Kensington Palace reveals the unseen life of Queen Victoria, Daisy Goodwin, the writer
of the drama based on the monarch’s life, shares the unlikely lessons she learnt from her diaries
Although I was born during the reign of Elizabeth II, growing up, of men. Covent Garden was probably the only place where she
it was her great-great-grandmother Victoria who had the more would have seen a woman centre-stage. No wonder, then, that
substantial presence. I lived in a Victorian house; rainy Sunday after- she took a theatrical approach to her own presentation. The late,
noons were spent in the Victoria and Albert Museum; I cycled past great Deirdre Murphy – the world expert on Victoria’s wardrobe –
the great marble wedding cake of a memorial to her outside told a story about how she went to Scotland and decided to have
Buckingham Palace every morning on my way to school; and before a tartan ball. All the guests went in their ancestral tartans, except
decimalisation there was still the chance of finding her profile in my for the Queen, who wore a simple pale-pink dress. This was a
change. But even though I played regularly outside Kensington woman who knew how to be noticed.
Palace by the same round pond that Victoria had gazed at as a child, Victoria understood the power of suggestion, too. She had been
it never occurred to me that the old lady glowering from busts and christened Alexandrina and, growing up, was always called Drina,
portraits could ever have been young. ‘Victorian’ meant dark wood, but when she came to the throne, instead of adopting a suitably regal
antimacassars and scarlet women being cast out into the snow. appellation such as Elizabeth or Anne, the young Queen decided to
Then I went to university and found myself reading the Queen’s call herself by her second name, Victoria. I am sure she picked it
PHOTOGRAPHS: DAVID SLIJPER, GETTY IMAGES, SARAH ROACH/THE PETAL EMPORIUM, SARAH SHUMATE, © RACHEL WARNE, SOPHIE CALLAHAN (WWW.SOPHIECALLAHAN.COM)

diaries as part of a course on the media and the because she knew that she was going to win – and
monarchy. I sat in the hush of the library, sur- she did. Historians can argue about how much
rounded by red morocco-bound volumes power she really had, but no one can dispute that
(Victoria wrote 62 million words in her lifetime), she gave her name to the age. Victoria was the first
and opened one at random. Here she is on teenager to turn herself into a global brand.
1 November 1839, just after her engagement to ‘Victoria: A Royal Childhood’, a new
Queen Victoria
her cousin Albert: ‘It was piercingly cold, and in the Royal Box at tour, and ‘Victoria: Woman and Crown’,
I sat in my cape, which dearest Albert settled the Drury Lane a new exhibition, both celebrating the
comfortably for me. He was so cold, dear Angel, Theatre, November bicentary of Queen Victoria’s birth,
being in grande tenue with tight white cazimere 1837, painted by open at Kensington Palace (www.
Sophie Lienard
pantaloons (nothing under them) and high hrp.org.uk)on 24 May.
boots. We cantered home again.’ It was an
epiphany, the boot-faced Queen transformed
into an effervescent teenager admiring the
manly attributes of her fiancé.
She was, I have to say, a girl after my own
heart: opinionated, stubborn and guilt-free. There is a particularly
revealing diary entry she writes on the day of her accession: ‘I spent
an hour, quite alone.’ It sounds unremarkable, until you realise that
up until that point, the young Victoria was never, ever alone: at night
she slept on a truckle bed in her mother’s room in Kensington Palace,
and by day she was in the care of her governess, Baroness Lehzen.
She wasn’t even allowed to walk down the stairs unaided – nobody
wanted the heir to the throne to slip and break her neck. When she
received her Prime Minister, Lord Melbourne, for an audience, it
was the first time she had ever been by herself with a man. Another
teenager might have been daunted, but she didn’t flinch. As the
parent of a similarly diminutive 18-year-old (Victoria was barely five
foot), I marvel at the way she took her overnight transformation from
overprotected teenager to the most powerful woman in the world in
her stride. Of course, I also have a shred of sympathy for the young
Queen’s mother, who was effectively discarded by her daughter.
The teenage Victoria’s greatest pleasure was going to the theatre; Jenna Coleman,
she loved ballet and bel canto operas such as Lucia di Lammermoor. who plays Victoria
in Daisy Goodwin’s
I wonder if it was while watching one of her favourite divas singing
TV series,
in the theatre that she formed her idea of queenship? We are used to photographed
a royal matriarchy, but in the 1830s there had been no queen regnant for Bazaar at
in living memory – it was a society run by and for the convenience Kensington Palace

www.harpersbazaar.com/uk
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TALKING POINTS OPERA

PASTOR AL
HARMONY
How Garsington’s verdant setting plays a
starring role in its world-class performances
By LYDIA SLATER

house, the idyllic surroundings and the charm of the children; it’s
only later that it becomes darker, in every sense.’
The opportunity this offers to elide the separation between
performers and audience makes for an almost surreally immersive
experience, especially given the deliberately small size of the audito-
rium. It only seats 600, although the stage and orchestra pit are as
large as that of a major opera house, able to accommodate the Philhar-
monia Orchestra, which plays for one production each season.
‘We could have made the Pavilion any size, but we wanted to keep
it intimate,’ says Nicola Creed, Garsington’s executive director.
‘Wherever you sit, you can see the sweat on a performer’s forehead,
or the lift of an eyebrow, and this fantastic sound envelops you.
You’re completely connected to what’s going on on stage.’
As a result, it’s possible to stage productions of varying scale,
from The Turn of the Screw, with its chamber
orchestra and tiny cast, to The Bartered Bride,
Garsington Opera.
which requires a full symphony orchestra
Below: Garsington
Manor and chorus. This year, Garsington’s season

T
encompasses 36 performances of four
he first notes of Mozart’s seductive aria operas, and three concerts of Monteverdi’s
‘Deh vieni, non tardar’ floated out into Vespers of 1610. ‘In a world where there’s
a silent, spellbound auditorium. And always worry about the future of live
then, quite unexpectedly, an equally performance, it’s an incredible success,’
accomplished singer joined in from outside. As observes Boyd.
the song of the nightingale blended with the It’s something Leonard Ingrams could
soprano’s, I found sudden tears pricking my eyes. never have imagined when, 30 years ago this
Such moments of unforgettable magic are to summer, he and his wife Rosalind invited
be expected at Garsington Opera, where the combination of exqui- the Opera 80 company to perform The Marriage of Figaro for a fund-
site music, the natural glories of the Wormsley Estate and the raiser on the loggia of their Oxfordshire manor. Garsington Opera
glamour of picnicking in evening dress beside the rush-fringed lake became an annual fixture, and visitors arrived, come rain or shine.
adds up to a potent cocktail of summery hedonism. But where Creed recalls how in 2009 a sudden deluge led to a river of water
Garsington has the edge over its rivals is in the way that the location flooding the house, the stage and the orchestra pit. ‘It’s the only time
itself is integrated into every production – an endeavour facilitated in our history that a performance has had to be abandoned.’
by Robin Snell’s ethereal Opera Pavilion, built in 2011. More dangerous to Garsington’s long-term prospects was the
‘Ours is probably the only glass opera house in the world,’ explains necessity of changing locations after Leonard Ingrams’ sudden
the artistic director Douglas Boyd. ‘For all the difficulties not death from a heart attack in 2005; yet the Wormsley Estate, where
having a dark stage poses, it separates us from any other experience.’ the company found a new home in 2011, has proved the perfect
Indeed: in that self-same production of The Marriage of Figaro, situation – just as beautiful, even closer to London, and with a
Cherubino leapt out the window of the Countess’ apartment into the purpose-built opera house that demands no Dunkirk spirit from
gardens themselves, to flee around the flowerbeds with a yokel in hot the audience, whatever the British summer has to throw at them.
pursuit; while the first act of Fidelio, in which prisoners are released Garsington Opera (www.garsingtonopera.org) runs from 29 May to 26 July.
from their dark cells, becomes unbearably poignant when you watch
them emerge, pallid and blinking, into a positive Eden in bloom.
‘You fight against the setting at your own peril,’ says Louisa
Muller, the director of this season’s The Turn of the Screw. ‘In the first
act, you’re in quite a lot of light, so the huge challenge is to make sure
that you’re focusing the audience’s eyes on what’s happening on
stage. But I can’t imagine a better setting for the opera itself: when
the governess arrives, she’s totally seduced by the beauty of the
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Ursula Hauser has never been one to court publicity; lately, how-
ever, the Swiss gallerist has had a change of heart. ‘I have begun to
PHYLLIDA BARLOW/COURTESY OF HAUSER & WIRTH/AXEL DUPEUX, © THE EASTON FOUNDATION/VAGA, NEW YORK/DACS, LONDON 2019/COURTESY OF THE URSULA HAUSER COLLECTION, SWITZERLAND, © ESTATE OF
PHOTOGRAPHS: STEPHEN WRIGHT/COURTESY OF GARSINGTON OPERA, ALAMY, ELLA PHILLIPS, KATHARINA LÜTSCHER/COURTESY OF HAUSER & WIRTH, © THE ESTATE OF EVA HESSE/COURTESY OF HAUSER & WIRTH, ©

recognise that opening up my private art collection is a must,’ she


explains. ‘I’ve been privileged to buy some unique pieces and, for
the sake of the artists, I have to get them out there.’
It is this altruistic urge that has prompted her to exhibit, for the
first time in the UK, a selection of her personal acquisitions at Hauser
& Wirth’s Somerset outpost, Durslade Farm. The show, which fea-
tures 70 works by contemporary and 20th-century female artists, is
also a celebration of Ursula’s remarkable career as she approaches Right: Ursula Hauser
at home in New York.
her 80th birthday. How did she develop her extraordinary collector’s
Below: Sylvia Sleigh’s
instincts? ‘I’ve always loved art and ‘Enid Irving at
had an eye for it,’ she says, ‘but Hammersmith’ (1959)
I had to wait until my children had
left home to live my passion.’ select, Ursula launches into a series of touching
The story of Hauser & Wirth anecdotes, slipping mid-sentence from English into
goes back to 1992, when Ursula her native German when she wants to express her
went into partnership with an depth of feeling for a particular artist. She recounts
ambitious 19-year-old called Iwan how, after acquiring an edition of Louise Bour-
Wirth to open a small gallery in geois’s Legs, she began paying visits to the sculptor
Zurich, using the fortune she had in her New York studio to see behind the scenes of
accumulated through the retail her latest projects. ‘Louise had such an energy and
business she had co-founded. Her presence,’ recalls Ursula. ‘I’ll never forget her hands
daughter, Manuela, agreed to join, – they were old and wrinkled, yet still so alive and
initially as a part-time secretary; in alert.’ Then there’s the Welsh-born artist Sylvia
the best possible version of a fairy Sleigh, who was in her nineties and still
ART
tale, she ended up falling in love relatively unknown when Ursula began
with both the business and Iwan, collecting her portraits. Soon, they were
whom she married in 1996. Today,
WOMEN’S taking tea at her Brooklyn home (‘We
SYLVIA SLEIGH/COURTESY OF THE URSULA HAUSER COLLECTION, SWITZERLAND, HAARKON

the couple work side by side to just connected’). After her friend

CHAMPION
run the gallery, which has grown into died, leaving no family, Ursula paid
an international success story with spaces her the ultimate tribute by pur-
in Switzerland, New York, Los Angeles, chasing her house, restoring many
Hong Kong, London and Somerset. Why the gallery owner of its original features and filling
Ursula remains their guiding light, and it with her paintings. ‘That’s how
travels regularly with her daughter to see
Ursula Hauser is opening up her I handle art,’ she explains. ‘I don’t
museum shows, attend fairs and visit personal collection to showcase the just buy it and put it in storage, I live
artists’ studios. with it around me.’
‘My mother has always been my role model
work of overlooked female artists Just as Ursula is safeguarding the
– she’s open-minded, and still so young at heart, By FRANCES HEDGES legacy of artists such as Sleigh by building
so curious,’ says Manuela, who is sitting in on our a living monument to their memory, so
interview at Hauser & Wirth’s Mayfair gallery, having Manuela is paying homage to her mother
co-curated the Somerset exhibition in Ursula’s honour. The through the Somerset show. With their
decision to focus on female artists reflects the fact that women mutual affection as the driving force, it is –
have historically found it more difficult to thrive creatively. ‘For like everything that Hauser & Wirth does
the older generation in particular, it was hard to find a way of – a project with people at its heart.
showing their work – no main galleries were interested,’ says ‘Unconscious Landscape. Works from the
Ursula. ‘That’s why they need collectors like me.’ Ursula Hauser Collection’ is at Hauser &
Browsing through a list of the works Manuela has helped Wirth Somerset (www.hauserwirth.com) from
25 May to 8 September.

Left: Manuela Wirth and


Ursula Hauser. Above:
Louise Bourgeois’s ‘Spiral
Woman’ (2003). Right:
Hauser & Wirth, Somerset

June 2019 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | 101


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Below: Elizabeth
Macneal in her
east-London studio

a physical manifestation of all those months I spent hunched over


my laptop. My words were an object. I have always been fascinated
by the meaning that collectors find in objects, and I suppose it is
unsurprising that my first novel explores these themes. Set in 1850s
London, it introduces Silas, a collector of curiosities who becomes
obsessed with Iris, a beautiful artist’s model. He sees her as a
possession. He wants to own, to preserve, to catalogue, to display.
Silas’ dream of opening his own museum is dwarfed by the
Great Exhibition, a vast glass temporary gallery that opened in
Hyde Park in 1851. Filled with items ranging from the obscure to
the beautiful, it featured a hat made of mutton fat, taxidermy frogs
being shaved and the Koh-i-Noor diamond, which was lit by a
BOOKS dozen little gas jets. Queen Victoria wrote in her diary that there
was ‘every conceivable invention’. How, Silas

ALL FIRED UP
wonders, can his own collection compare to
something on this scale?
Meanwhile, in Fitzrovia, the Pre-Raphaelite
Brotherhood painted tiny mice and ivory fans into
The author and ceramicist Elizabeth Macneal celebrates their clutter-filled canvases, each item telling a

PHOTOGRAPHS: JONATHAN MCQUITTY, GETTY IMAGES, DANIEL DORSA, JEFF MCLANE/COURTESY OF LUCHITA HURTADO
the symbiotic nature of her twin pursuits story. They painted women, such as my

I
character Iris, caging them in gilt
t began with a small splintering sound, then frames. With this crowded world
a crash, and by the time I’d stood up from forming the backdrop, I started to
my pottery wheel, I was surrounded only write The Doll Factory. The winter
by dust and shards of clay. The shelves had the shelves broke, I made over a
collapsed, taking with them more than £1,000 thousand new pots and wrote in
worth of stock that I had spent months making. a frenzy. As the rows of finished
‘These shelves will withstand an earthquake,’ ceramics grew, so too did I fill my
my husband had said the week before, with titanic pages with little objects signifying
confidence, as he hammered in the final nail. Now freedom, entrapment and ambition. An
he was crouched over, holding back the tears, while oily-feathered sparrow. The brick chim-
sweeping up fragments of mugs. ney of a pottery factory in Stoke. A pair
The next day, I sat at my laptop and undertook of false teeth made of walrus tusks. At the
a second quiet destruction: I deleted three weeks centre of it all is Iris, a young woman who
of writing without giving it a second thought. But paints the feet and faces of china dolls, who is
I wrote through that winter, until I had a first draft herself painted into beautiful canvases, and
and a title, The Doll Factory. I surrounded myself often objectified in more or less malign ways.
with things I’d made: a mug or a lamp or a planter. But through it all, she strives to be free and to
They encouraged and goaded me. You’ve made a mug, so unleash her own creativity.
why can’t you write a book? You’ve sold a mug, why can’t I like the idea that, a thousand years from now, a
you publish a book? fractured piece of pottery will be discovered in a garden
My chosen vocation is a dual one: it is to make objects in Limehouse. Nobody will know anything about how
and write stories. They fit together neatly; in one, the I spent that winter in the cold of my shed, moving
Above: the Great
creation is physical, in the other it is mental. To produce an Exhibition before between my laptop and the potter’s wheel, throwing
object or publish a novel is to acknowledge that your work the Queen’s object after object while trying to write a book.
might outlive you, remaining static while you age, existing arrival in 1851 And nobody will know that, as my husband scrabbled
beyond your control. But there is a certain pleasure in that on the floor and clutched broken mug handles and
too, the idea of creating permanent things to be left behind and chipped salt cellars, I started to laugh. Here I was, surveying the
cherished by others. ruins of my hard work, and there was nothing I could do about it.
I still remember the first pot I ever sold, two years ago. I had ‘They’re only things, after all,’ I said to him, ‘not worth getting upset
a stall at a market in Stratford, some shiny brand stickers, and about about.’ And we swept it all into the bin.
30 pots that I’d lugged there on the Tube. I wrapped up the little ‘The Doll Factory’ by Elizabeth Macneal (£12.99, Picador) is out now.
speckled planter in tissue paper and swapped it for coins. It felt so
glorious that I was sure there’d been a mistake. A year and a half
later, I held a proof copy of my novel for the first time. I flicked
through the pages and tried not to cry. Here, in my hand, was

102 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | June 2019


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ART
TALKING POINTS

GOLDEN HOUR
After more than seven decades painting in
private, Luchita Hurtado has finally stepped
into the spotlight
By FRANCES HEDGES

‘My art is a diary of my life,’ says the 98-year-


old artist Luchita Hurtado. ‘The work
I do now is completely different from
anything I’ve done before.’ No wonder the that included Marcel Duchamp, Man Ray,
selection of pieces on display in her long- Leonora Carrington and Frida Kahlo.
overdue retrospective is so diverse, ranging ‘Nobody had really seen my stuff – painting
from geometric abstractions to voluptuous was simply a daily thing I enjoyed doing.’
depictions of the female form, It was only when Ryan Good, now
sometimes transfigured into Hurtado’s studio director, came across
strange, undulating landscapes. a vast archive of her signed works in 2015
While Hurtado has crossed that the true significance of her contribu-
many a border in search of tion to modern art came to light. Now
Above: Luchita
adventure (born in Venezuela, rightly fêted for her sensitive interpretation
Hurtado. Right:
‘Untitled’ (1975). she was brought up in New York, of colour, light and movement, as well as for
Above right: lived in Mexico and is now based her ingenious command of perspective, she
‘Untitled’ (1969) in Los Angeles), her nomadic eschews membership of any artistic school
existence has never been a in favour of a bravely independent vision.
barrier to her artistic vocation. ‘It’s my voice I’m concerned with, and not
She has painted constantly and what other people are thinking,’ she says.
prolifically throughout her life, yet for a long ‘I never could work with anyone else.’
time she kept her work to herself. ‘It was just ‘Luchita Hurtado’ is at the Serpentine Galleries
the fact that everybody around me was an (www.serpentinegalleries.org) from 23 May
artist,’ she recalls, referring to a social circle to 8 September.

The Queen Mother


meeting Diana Ross,
Mary Wilson and
Florence Ballard of the
Supremes at the Royal
Variety Performance
in 1968

BOOKS REIGN SUPREME


‘I will never forget stepping off the airplane in London to be met by cheering
crowds of British music fans holding banners to welcome us as showbusiness
stars… This was the way America welcomed the Beatles. That was one of our
first impressions of the British Isles.’ So says Mary Wilson, the Supremes’
founding member, of the group’s long and affectionate relationship with
Britain – culminating in their meeting with the Queen Mother in 1968 – in a new book
chronicling the lives and looks of the original Dreamgirls. CB
‘Supreme Glamour’ (£29.95, Thames & Hudson) is published on 23 May.
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TALKING POINTS

N
aomi Wolf ’s new book Outrages marks the fulfilment of intimacy from something acceptable and unremarkable into
a very personal quest; the story of its writing is as a crime that could result in imprisonment – or worse. Her story
inspiring as the stories it contains. Wolf is now crosses the Atlantic as she follows Symonds’ correspondence with
renowned as a cultural commentator and one of the the American poet Walt Whitman, whose book Leaves of Grass
most powerful voices of third-wave feminism, but she encountered was to be censored and bowdlerised – on both sides of the water –
significant resistance at the beginning of her career. Her 1990 book thanks to this clampdown on sexual freedom. Oscar Wilde,
The Beauty Myth, which sits comfortably alongside classic feminist a generation younger than Symonds, knew the older man’s work;
texts such as Germaine Greer’s The Female Eunuch and Betty at one point Wolf talks about holding in her hands Wilde’s copy
Friedan’s The Feminine Mystique, had its beginnings of Symonds’ 1873 Studies of the Greek Poets – one of
when the San Francisco-born writer won a Rhodes the first books, she writes, to transmit homosexual
Scholarship to Oxford in 1985. The thesis it presents – history from an older generation to a younger one.
that pressures on women to look a certain way have Classical literature and history provided a cloak for
only increased as feminism supposedly liberated them ideas that were otherwise impossible to convey.
– was to be the subject of her DPhil at Oxford, Outrages is revelatory in the way it brings together
but the idea was dismissed out of hand. ‘I was told by sometimes unbearably painful personal narratives
the dons that feminist theory would never be a disci- (Symonds married and had children, because he felt he
pline,’ she says, laughing a little ruefully had to) with political and literary history.
over the phone from her West Village Symonds and Whitman may be long
apartment in New York. gone, but their story has a particular
Wolf went on to write The Beauty Myth resonance now. ‘The right of people to
despite the dons; global bestsellerdom LITERATURE have a private life and to say whatever
followed, and she has since remained at they want is actively under threat,’ Wolf
the forefront of sexual politics. Her book says. ‘Ten years ago we would have

OF LOVE &
Vagina: A New Biography, published seven thought that we had all decided freedom
years ago, was one of the first to deal of speech was an essential part of the
frankly with the subject in question. But modern world, but now I see horrific
all the success in the world couldn’t make
up for the fact she’d never got that doc-
torate (‘I come from a family of professors,’
LIBERTY attempts to restrict it on college cam-
puses, on social media, all over.’
Wolf builds a powerful case for

PHOTOGRAPHS: RACHEL LOUISE BROWN, TOM PIETRASIK/GUARDIAN/EYEVINE, GAP PHOTOS/NICOLA STOCKEN. SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS
she says). So she reapplied to Oxford at the Erica Wagner discusses free Symonds; and shows how his ideas – and
age of 49 – ‘and they let me come back!’ the letters and memoirs he kept secret
Now she is officially Dr Wolf – and speech and self-expression with during his lifetime – survived into a future
Outrages: Sex, Censorship and the Crimi- Naomi Wolf, a writer who has he could not have foreseen. ‘I still get very
nalisation of Love is a development of her moved at the end of the book, when this
thesis. Don’t let that put you off: this is a always pushed the boundaries generation of men are dying or in jail, and
heartbreaking, eye-opening book that for all they know, that’s it,’ Wolf says.
centres on an extraordinary man, the ‘Wilde died in exile; Whitman died para-
English critic John Addington Symonds, who was – in a way he lysed and poor. They would not have any reason to believe that
could never have known – in the vanguard of sexual liberation. Born what they did in their lifetimes would carry forward and be the seed
in 1840, Symonds was a man who loved men; ‘gay’ is not a term he of a whole other world. It’s a moral fable about how you can’t give
would have recognised. He had the misfortune to be born, however, up. You can’t be sure that your work won’t bear fruit one day.’
at a time when sexual behaviour, in both Britain and the United The same might be said for Dr Naomi Wolf, whose long-ago
States, was beginning to be codified – and criminalised. attempt at a doctorate finally bore fruit and has resulted in
The fulcrum of the book is a pair of acts passed in Britain in 1857: this remarkable book.
the Obscene Publications Act and the Matrimonial Causes Act. ‘Outrages: Sex, Censorship and the Criminalisation of Love’ (£20,
Wolf traces the way in which their passage transformed male Virago) is published on 20 May.

F R A M E EXHIBITIONS
T HE

Bazaar’s photography director Rachel Louise Brown will exhibit a selection of


otherworldly images, including this ethereal self-portrait shot in Palm Beach, at the
Photo London fair in Somerset House this May, as well as in a satellite show at Sea
Containers London. She joins Mary McCartney and Susan Meiselas as one of three
N

leading female photographers selected for this year’s Pavilion Commissions. FH


I

Photo London (www.photolondon.org) runs from 16 to 19 May at Somerset House;


the satellite show at Sea Containers London will remain open until 31 May.
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Cushion, about £34


Casatales

Croquet set,
£108 Plate, £30
Vilac at Moda Oliver Bonas
Operandi
Jug and glasses set, £450
Nick Vinson x Lobmeyr
at Matchesfashion.com

£944
Maisons du Monde

Figurine, £2,658
Vittorio Costantini
at Moda Operandi

DESIGN

£155 each
Hampson Woods
THE GARDEN
PARTY £308
Eumenes

Carafe, £280 Bright summertime accessories


Campbell-Rey at
Matchesfashion.com for entertaining alfresco
Compiled by SOPHIE BLOOMFIELD
and MARISSA BOURKE

Garden arch,
£450
Side plate, £11.50 Oka
Daylesford
From a selection,
Hermès
Side plates, £34
for four
Oka
£291 for four
La DoubleJ x
Salviati at
Matchesfashion.
com

Fruit bowl, £55


Edit 58 Tureens, £330
each
Tory Burch

£12
Paola Navone
for Serax
at Designers Beach towel, Background fabric,
Guild £440 £95 a metre
Hermès Christian Lacroix
at Designers Guild

www.harpersbazaar.com/uk June 2019 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | 105


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HOROSCOPES
The future revealed: your essential guide to JUNE By PETER WATSON

GEMINI SAGITTARIUS
22 May – 21 June 23 November – 21 December
Those hinting that your latest professional or financial plans are Though you won’t mind putting in plenty of effort you might
unrealistic have a point. Refuse to let a Sun-Neptune clash persuade wonder how long it will be before your latest project or piece of
you to ignore their warnings – you probably should adopt a more work pays off. Venus collaborating with Pluto means you’ll soon
belt-and-braces approach to ideas that may be exciting but that are begin to appreciate the true worth of moving slowly but surely
based on precarious assumptions. Do your research. towards a successful outcome. Use all the resources at your disposal.
LUCKY DAY 19th – as you triumph over challenges, others applaud you. LUCKY DAY 9th – a relaxed attitude lets you make light of onerous chores.

CANCER CAPRICORN
22 June – 23 July 22 December – 20 January
Opportunities opening up before you are meant to be treated as A different, more enlightened, outlook on your health and
private and confidential. Avoid the temptation to confide in wellbeing should reassure you that you can cope with imminent
someone to whom you’ve often told your deepest, darkest secrets. challenges. But do take steps to ensure that this is not a flash in
Even the merest mention of what is about to occur could rob you of the pan and that you continue to take better care of yourself
the chance to improve your position, status or lifestyle dramatically. for the foreseeable future. Encouraging results are on their way.
LUCKY DAY 4th – your philosophical perspective on problems brings clarity. LUCKY DAY 11th – inspired by loved ones, you challenge a controversial set-up.

LEO AQUARIUS
24 July – 23 August 21 January – 19 February
It’s only natural that recent events should make you reflect on your Several of those people saying they’ll contribute to a cause or
opinion of a peer or rival. But don’t speak too soon about your change enterprise might not come up with the goods. But will it be your
of view. You’re dealing with the type who has a chameleon-like responsibility to shame them into sticking to their word? No,
capacity to appear to be one thing one minute, then something especially as any ill-feeling could be long-lasting. At times we have
quite different the next. It’s too soon to share your thinking. to put the disappointing behaviour of others down to experience.
LUCKY DAY 17th – an ally persuades you to move off in a fresh direction. LUCKY DAY 24th – keeping high drama to a minimum brings peace of mind.

VIRGO PISCES
24 August – 23 September 20 February – 20 March
Contact with certain individuals has led to your idealising one of Jupiter confronting Neptune in mid-June is no excuse to do battle
them who is more flawed than you realise. Placing someone high on with somebody criticising the way your dealings in the wider world
a pedestal often leads to disappointment. And with Mars linked to impinge on your personal life. Reflect on recent changes that have
Neptune it may be hard to distinguish between fantasy and reality. deprived you of the opportunity to be with those you love. Promise
Make no commitments without a lot of thought and consideration. yourself that you’ll remedy the situation at the earliest opportunity.
LUCKY DAY 26th – you enter into areas that lift your spirits sky-high. LUCKY DAY 14th – progress is made in how you and others treat one another.

LIBR A ARIES
24 September – 23 October 21 March – 20 April
You’ll quickly see how much value there could be in embarking on Unexpected developments impacting your family or day-to-day
an intriguing journey or endeavour. There will seem to be little risk environment must not derail certain professional or financial
involved compared with how much you stand to gain if all goes arrangements. So refuse to take onboard scathing comments from
well. Just make sure, however, that if somebody close sees a hidden those who feel strongly that you should have their best interests at
danger, you call a halt and think again. heart at all times. Be glad that few can rival your fancy footwork.
LUCKY DAY 7th – those in powerful positions focus on you in a positive way. LUCKY DAY 27th – your creative streak adds magic to something ordinary.

SCORPIO TAURUS
24 October – 22 November 21 April – 21 May
Others doing battle with one another have no right to draw you into No matter how kindly disposed you feel towards a small group of
the dispute. And your need to please mustn’t persuade you that people, curb a tendency to be over-generous towards them. Yes,
you’re obliged to become caught up in it. It may not be easy to remain they probably deserve your respect and admiration, but you’re not
on friendly terms with both parties but it can, and should, be done. meant to bankroll them. That wouldn’t be good for them – nor for
LUCKY DAY 18th – accepting that conditions are wrong enables you to you, especially as new demands on your money are on the horizon.
put them right. LUCKY DAY 3rd – friends persuade you to take an easygoing view of events.

For weekly updates, visit www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/culture/horoscopes.

106 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | June 2019 www.harpersbazaar.com/uk


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NEXT MONTH, FR EE WITH


PHOTOGRAPH: LUCKY IF SHARP. *GIFT AVAILABLE WITH NEWSSTAND COPIES OF THE MAGAZINE ONLY; EXCLUDES BUMPER PACKS AND DIGITAL EDITIONS

WORTH
£12 EACH
THREE TO
COLLECT

Receive a free polish from Leighton Denny


Expert Nails in your choice of three sophisticated shades –
with the July issue, on sale 6 June*
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PHOTOGRAPHS: RICHARD PHIBBS,


GETTY IMAGES. ARTWORK BY AMY BLACKER
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U NE 2
J

01
9
‘Betwixt the blossom and the bough…
…come I as I came of old,
From out the heart of summer’s joy…’
So wrote William Morris, in a paean to
Pre-Raphaelite beauty, though we are as inspired
this month by modern heroines, contemporary
couture and tales of brave and brilliant women.
We celebrate Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, as she
embraces her twin roles as mother and model;
and salute the artist Lee Krasner, no longer
overshadowed by her husband’s fame, but at last
revered in her own right
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LA VIE
EN ROSE
An extraordinarily successful businesswoman whose annual earnings of $11.5 million
now put her in the top three of the world’s most highly paid supermodels,
Rosie Huntington-Whiteley has remained a woman’s woman, with the ability to inspire
her legions of Instagram followers. She talks to Avril Mair about the realities of life as
a new mother, and the emotional truth beneath her polished public persona
Photographs by ALEXI LUBOMIRSKI

Styled by MIRANDA ALMOND


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All pieces throughout from


a selection, except where
stated. THIS PAGE:
sequined swimsuit;
matching cap; sequined
tulle veil, all Chanel Haute
Couture. White gold, pearl
and diamond ring, Chanel
Fine Jewellery. OPPOSITE:
silk crepe embellished
dress; matching cape; suede
boots, all Giambattista Valli
Haute Couture
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Beaded and embellished


dress, Balmain Couture.
Leather and strass shoes,
£875, Tabitha Simmons.
Platinum and diamond
earrings, Tiffany & Co

ALEXI LUBOMIRSKI
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Los Angeles is the kind of place that wears you out. It’s a sullen,
sunless March afternoon and I’ve arrived, neurotically early,
to meet Rosie Huntington-Whiteley at a new member’s club in West
Hollywood, which turns out to be so cool and cleverly disguised that
my taxi driver can’t find it. When he finally does – it is masquerading
as a bungalow on an otherwise nondescript residential strip – I’m
asked to hand over my iPhone before being allowed in. An unsmiling
hostess slaps branded stickers over its camera lens, front and back.
‘A gentle reminder that we do not welcome social media,’ she says,
before declining my jet-lagged request for coffee and sending me off
to wait in a corner with a glass of tap water. I dressed up this morning,
but feel all wrong. LA does that, somehow. What’s our English rose
doing in a city like this?
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Silk dress; embellished


leather heels, both
Giambattista Valli Haute
Couture. Platinum
and diamond earrings,
Tiffany & Co

ALEXI LUBOMIRSKI
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This is Rosie’s sixth cover story for Harper’s Bazaar and the third
time I’ve interviewed her – on every occasion she’s been charming and
self-effacing, generous and giving. She wears her beauty lightly; what
comes through most emphatically is her desire to do well, to behave
well. ‘I just want to come across like a decent person,’ she told me
once. ‘I want to make my family proud.’ Her parents are still together,
still living in the Devon farmhouse where she grew up. ‘I have that
solid background,’ she says. The fact she remains so relatable may go
some way to explaining her phenomenal success; for as well as
starring in two feature films (Transformers: Dark of the Moon in 2011
The first time I met Rosie Huntington-Whiteley was in 2011 when and Mad Max: Fury Road in 2015) and continuing to model, choosing
she had just moved here to live with the English actor Jason Statham, allegiances carefully and strategically, Rosie has also spent the years
now her fiancé and father of their 22-month-old son Jack. Back since our first meeting becoming a multi-millionaire businesswoman.
then, she was a perfectly ordinary girl in possession of the most extra- Forbes estimated her earnings in 2018 as $11.5 million, placing her
ordinary physicality; someone who had spent much of her career third in its list of the world’s most highly paid models, just behind
modelling lingerie, a Victoria’s Secret Angel and Pirelli-calendar Kendall Jenner and Karlie Kloss. A majority of that comes from
pin-up who was now trying to seduce Hollywood. We had breakfast her work with M&S, where she has a bestselling line of lingerie –
together at the Beverly Hills Hotel, the epicentre of power dining. one in three bras sold in its stores is from her collection – as well as,
She was 24 and it was her first proper inter- more recently, beauty and fragrance. ‘It’s
view, apart from men’s mags, and she was something that’s for everybody,’ she says.
endearingly nervous, hands folded neatly
on the table in front of her, a look of polite
‘Motherhood is so Supermodel she may be, but Rosie is also
the very definition of a woman’s woman,
and serious concentration on that exquisite
face. ‘I’ve worked every day since I was 16
overwhelming. which is why she wants to talk honestly
now about how the past two years have
years old,’ she said. ‘I’ve tried to be profes-
sional in every way. I have really dedicated
It encompasses been on a personal level, aside from that
professional success. ‘One of my favourite
myself to my career. Yes, I am determined.
You have to be if you want to continue
every single things about being a mum is how it con-
nects me to other women,’ she says. ‘I think
working. It doesn’t just hand itself to you.’
Eight years later, she arrives exactly as
emotion, and I would be doing a disservice not only to
myself but also to them if I weren’t open
scheduled – many things have changed,
but not Rosie’s manners. She’s wearing
at such a about my experience. I left home at 16 and
had Jack when I was 30 – that’s a long time
high-waisted jeans, a slim sweater, Jessica
McCormack diamond earrings and her
heightened level’ to focus on myself and my work, and I’m
grateful that I got everything I needed to
five-carat Edwardian engagement ring. A out of my system, but it’s been a big
black Hermès Kelly bag – a more understated choice than the adjustment. Though I really felt ready to have a baby, it still pulls
celebrity-mandated Birkin – hangs casually from an arm. She tells the rug out from underneath you. I am obsessed by him. I’ve never
me she crashed her new Jeep into the back of Statham’s car on their been more in love in my whole life; it blows everything else out
driveway earlier, laughing, which she does a lot. She talks with of the water. But it’s just so overwhelming. It encompasses every
enthusiasm, her enunciation careful and precise. Clearly, she’s still single emotion I feel you could have as a human being and at such
highly motivated – but now she exudes a more polished profession- a heightened level. I don’t think I’ve been depressed at all, but
alism as well as the glossy, glamorous vitality that is her signature. there definitely have been periods over the past 18 months when
‘I go through moments of feeling that I want to be back in London,’
she says, ‘but right now I am really happy here. Being homesick
is something I’ve learnt to live with. When I first arrived, I was like,
“Am I going to act? Am I still modelling?” That took a couple of
years to figure out. I would have periods when I wasn’t working –
that’s the life of a model – and would find myself a little bit lost.
But since becoming a mum, I’ve felt so much more confident
within my own skin and much more confident about who I am. Sequined dress, Elie Saab
It’s been life-changing.’ Haute Couture
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ALEXI LUBOMIRSKI
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Cotton bustier; silk, organza and gazar skirt;


grosgrain bag (worn over shoulders); leather
heels, all Givenchy Haute Couture. Platinum
and diamond earrings, Tiffany & Co

ALEXI LUBOMIRSKI
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ALEXI LUBOMIRSKI
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things are great and you think you’re on top of it, then maybe when
there’s a lot on the schedule and it’s overwhelming… that can cause
anxiety, you know.’
Perhaps unsurprisingly for someone whose curvaceous athleti-
cism has been the foundation of her career – combined with
a seemingly effortless ability to flit between girlish wholesomeness
and full-on sex appeal – Rosie says the changes to her body caused
by pregnancy were the most difficult thing to deal with. ‘It was a
struggle for me, if I can be really candid. I gained a lot of weight; inspired? Do they leave feeling creative? Do they leave feeling posi-
a lot more than people around me expected. I do not regret it tive from their experience? Or do they leave feeling insecure and
– but I had a long way to go once I was cradling this baby. You unworthy? I certainly know, as a human being, that there are people
give birth and then, after a certain amount of time, you look in I would perhaps rather not see on my feed.’ She pauses. ‘I don’t want
the mirror and you’re like, “Right, I’ve got to get back. I’ve got to get anybody not to feel good.’
back to me.”’ It took a year of training and discipline, she says. ‘I’m With 9.2 million followers, Rosie is in a position to leverage
not joking. It took a year to the month to lose every single pound. her online celebrity: as Forbes noted in a story on Kylie Jenner last
Even after that, it took several more months before I could go on year, ‘Social media has weaponised fame to the point that a real-
a shoot and feel good. But interestingly, it was a year of being really estate mogul can be president and a 20-year-old from a family
uncomfortable in my skin, and refinding “famous for being famous” can approach
my identity – as a woman, as a mother, billionaire status by monetising that to
having a career, being in a relationship – and
finally being confident with that. Now, my
‘My mum always the extreme.’ Rosie has taken a different
approach, however. In May 2018, she
perception of what I thought of as feeling
great and looking great has shifted. I’m
used to say, launched Rose Inc, a digital-beauty forum
dreamt up at her kitchen table during preg-
stronger, both physically and mentally. I feel,
probably for the first time, that I’m a woman
“Life’s not going nancy: ‘Towards the very end, I had this
urge to be really creative.’ This is not a
rather than a girl. It’s been a really great
shift to see myself in the mirror and to be
to hand it to you brand based only on herself, though: like
Gwyneth Paltrow’s Goop, it has a broader
OK with the imperfection.’
We talk for a while about this reality
on a plate, Rosie. reach, combining industry-insider curation
and inspiration with the kind of word-
versus the filtered vision of Instagram, which
she agrees has been hugely important to her
Go out there of-mouth advice passed on from friend to
friend. There are currently seven employees
career. ‘I always want to be respectful of my
personal life, because other people are
and grab it”’ and communal offices where she goes
every day. ‘It feels like my whole career led
involved in that, so I use it as a work tool. It me to this point,’ she says. ‘I’ve never felt
has allowed models, who were always seen as quote unquote one- comfortable just waiting for the phone to ring – because there have
dimensional figures, to create a more well-rounded vision.’ She been times when it didn’t. So I wanted to build something, instead
pauses and adds: ‘Well, as well-rounded as it can be on a place where of sitting back and being submissive. My mum always used to say,
you see everyone at their best.’ She feels a sense of responsibility “Life’s not going to hand it to you on a plate, Rosie. Go out there
to the young women who view her page: ‘Do they leave feeling and grab it.” I want this to be a platform to open up dialogue that
feels two-way. It’s not like me sharing something on Instagram
and then leaving. I didn’t call it after myself because I want it to be
bigger than me – it’s a way to connect women.’
To that end, her new role is not only as entrepreneur and editor
– ‘I can’t call myself CEO,’ she protests – but also as cheerleader for
a more positive, inclusive take on beauty. In an editorial on the site,
she writes: ‘Being confident doesn’t require you to be perfect. It
doesn’t mean you have to be the prettiest or smartest person in the
room. It just means that you have to take a good look at yourself and
Faille dress, Valentino choose to like who you see.’ That’s not a message you get from
Haute Couture Instagram but it’s one we should all share. Everything’s Rosie again.
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THIS PAGE: pleated dress


with veil, Dior Haute Couture.
White gold and diamond
earrings; white gold and
diamond ring, both Dior
Joaillerie. OPPOSITE:
embellished dress, Atelier
Versace. Calf-leather heels,
£450, Tabitha Simmons.
Platinum and diamond
earrings; platinum and
diamond ring, both Tiffany
& Co. See Stockists for
details. Hair by Christian
Wood for Wella Professionals
at the Wall Group. Make-up
by Hung Vanngo at the Wall
Group. Manicure by Ana
Maria at the BA Reps, using
Dermelect Persuasive. Stylist’s
assistant: Holly Gorst. Set
design by Jack Flanagan at the
Wall Group. Production by
Kranky Productions

ALEXI LUBOMIRSKI
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SEA OF
TRANQUILLITY
A sublime array of celestial couture shimmers
on the Kentish coast
Photographs by AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA

Styled by CHARLIE HARRINGTON


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All prices throughout from


a selection, except where
stated. Duchesse satin dress,
Schiaparelli Haute Couture
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THIS PAGE: embroidered


organza cape, Armani Privé.
OPPOSITE: embroidered lace
dress, Chanel Haute Couture

AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA
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THIS PAGE: sequined dress,


Celia Kritharioti. OPPOSITE:
organdie and feather dress,
Valentino Haute Couture.
Calf-leather brogues,
£215, Repetto

AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA
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THIS PAGE: silk dress,


Iris van Herpen. OPPOSITE:
silk and lamé dress, Atelier
Versace. Calf-leather brogues,
£215, Repetto

AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA
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THIS PAGE: ruffle silk top


with sleeves, Balmain Couture.
Gold and pearl earrings, £395,
Annoushka. OPPOSITE:
embroidered lace dress;
metal and crystal earrings,
both Alexander McQueen

AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA
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THIS PAGE: taffeta dress,


Valentino Haute Couture.
Calf-leather brogues, £215,
Repetto. OPPOSITE: organza
shirt, Gaultier Paris. Ribbon,
stylist’s own

AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA
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THIS PAGE: lamé dress with


tulle bolero, Alexis Mabille
Haute Couture. OPPOSITE:
tulle dress, Giambattista Valli
Haute Couture. Suede flats,
£515, Manolo Blahnik

AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA
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THIS PAGE: tulle, organza


and lace dress, Valentino
Haute Couture. OPPOSITE:
silk, satin and taffeta dress;
embellished metal
choker, both Givenchy
Haute Couture. Leather flats,
£515, Manolo Blahnik

AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA
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THIS PAGE: silk mix dress,


£1,810; grosgrain belt,
£270, both Alberta
Ferretti Limited Edition.
Ribbon (worn as scarf ),
stylist’s own. OPPOSITE:
ostrich-feather dress,
Schiaparelli Haute Couture
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See Stockists for details. Hair


by Gareth Bromell at Premier
Hair and Make-up, using
Evo. Make-up by Polly
Osmond at Premier Hair
and Make-up, using Glossier.
Stylist’s assistants: Holly
Gorst and Georgia Medley.
Production by Shiny Projects.
Props stylist: Julia Dias at
Patricia McMahon. Model:
Leah Rodl at Premier
Model Management. Shot at
the Beacon House, Whitstable

AGATA POSPIESZYNSKA
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Works by Lee Krasner,


from top: ‘Olympic’ (1974).
‘Assault on the Solar
Plexus’ (1961). Below:
‘Combat’ (1965)
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Left: Krasner’s
‘Palingenesis’ (1971).
Below: ‘Self-portrait’
(about 1932)

OUT
OF
THE
SHADOWS
POLLOCK-KRASNER FOUNDATION/ARS, NEW YORK, LICENSED BY COPYRIGHT AGENCY,
POLLOCK-KRASNER FOUNDATION, IMAGE COURTESY KASMIN GALLERY, NEW YORK,
NATIONAL GALLERY OF VICTORIA, MELBOURNE, FELTON BEQUEST, 1992, © THE
PHOTOGRAPHS: © THE POLLOCK-KRASNER FOUNDATION, NEW YORK, © THE

2018, IMAGE COURTESY OF NATIONAL GALLERY OF VICTORIA, MELBOURNE

As a new exhibition of Lee Krasner’s work opens in London, Frances Hedges pays tribute to
an artist viewed for far too long through the prism of her marriage to Jackson Pollock
‘So good, you would never know it was done by a woman.’ This was The breadth of the pieces on display, encompassing portraits,
the double-edged compliment Lee Krasner received for her work collages, abstract paintings and even a mosaic table, celebrates
from the German abstract painter Hans Hofmann while she was Krasner’s lifelong experimentation. ‘Lee had a unique voice that
under his tutelage in the late 1930s. It typifies the narrow-minded is imprinted in all of her work, but she was interested in articulating
way in which Krasner has been judged over the decades, with com- it in different ways,’ says Eleanor Nairne, the curator of the Barbican
mentary about her status as a female artist, and especially as the show. She highlights three main points of continuity across the
wife of the legendary Jackson Pollock, deflecting critical attention diverse exhibits: Krasner’s consistent use of oil in her paintings
away from the intrinsic brilliance of her oeuvre. This month, a new (notable at a time when many were experimenting with enamels
exhibition at Barbican Art Gallery finally brings Krasner into the or acrylics), her skill as a colourist, and her determination to convey
spotlight, making her the heroine of her own life instead of a sup- what she called the ‘inner voice’ in an authentic way – a quest
porting actor in her husband’s star performance. that began in the earliest years of her artistic development.
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Krasner’s extraordinary talent, not to mention her ambition, was


evident from her youth. Born in Brooklyn in 1908, to a family of
Russian-Jewish immigrants, she was unusually self-directed,
choosing a high school that offered an art major because she wanted told the news over the phone while staying in Paris at the home of
to pursue a creative path. After graduating, she secured a scholar- her friend Paul Jenkins, was devastated. ‘She headed toward an open
ship for the Women’s Art School of Cooper Union, followed by a balcony; I reached out and grasped her,’ recalled Jenkins. ‘I placed
place at New York City’s prestigious National Academy of Design. her to the wall and didn’t let her go until she calmed down.’ With
Her 1928 self-portrait, which she painted in a bid to gain admit- his help, Krasner was able to fly back to New York that same night,
tance to the school’s life-drawing class, shows that even while where preparations for the funeral began at once.
working in the classical style, she was pushing the boundaries of Much as Pollock’s death was a deeply personal tragedy for
the genre, capturing herself en plein air instead of in the traditional Krasner, professionally it became a source of liberation. Even at a
interior setting. Viewed against the soft, dappled light of the practical level, it afforded her more opportunities to flourish, as she
verdant Long Island backdrop, her expression appears all the more was able to move from the cramped conditions of her upstairs
defiant – the gaze of a woman with a clear sense of purpose. bedroom, which had doubled as a makeshift studio, into the spacious

LEE KRASNER PAPERS, CIRCA 1905–1984, ARCHIVES OF AMERICAN ART, SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION, LOS ANGELES COUNTY MUSEUM OF ART, © THE POLLOCK-KRASNER FOUNDATION, © 2018, DIGITAL IMAGE MUSEUM

© THE POLLOCK-KRASNER FOUNDATION, IMAGE PROVIDED BY THE JEWISH MUSEUM, NEW YORK, DR GREG SHANNON AND FAMILY, © THE POLLOCK-KRASNER FOUNDATION, PHOTO COURTESY OF GREG SHANNON
ASSOCIATES/LACMA/ART RESOURCE NY/SCALA, FLORENCE, COLLECTION OF RON DELSENER, © THE POLLOCK-KRASNER FOUNDATION, IMAGE COURTESY OF SOTHEBY’S, 2018, THE JEWISH MUSEUM, NEW YORK,
PHOTOGRAPHS: PHOTOGRAPH BY WILFRID ZOGBAUM, JACKSON POLLOCK AND LEE KRASNER PAPERS, CIRCA 1905–1984, ARCHIVES OF AMERICAN ART, SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION, PHOTOGRAPH BY RAY EAMES,
Krasner was well on her way to fulfilling that purpose when she barn where her husband had worked. Ceasing to make art in order
met Pollock in 1941, having already established herself as a fixture to mourn was never an option for her, as she subsequently explained:
on the New York City art scene and forged connections with lead- ‘Painting is not separate from life. It is one. It is like asking – do I want
ing abstract painters such as Willem de Kooning, Franz Kline and to live? My answer is yes – and I paint.’ And paint she did, now on an
Mark Rothko. After her marriage to Pollock in 1945, however, her unprecedented scale, tacking five-metre canvases to the wall and
focus shifted towards advancing her new husband’s career. ‘When filling them with vast, plant-like forms that threatened to eclipse the
we began going together, my own work boundaries of the frame.
became irrelevant. He was the important It is tempting to see Krasner’s career in
thing,’ she admitted. This is not to say binary terms – before and after Pollock
that Krasner’s creativity stagnated while – but in fact her artistic evolution was
they were together; if anything, Pollock characterised by regular transitions. She
inspired her to paint in a more sponta- believed that there was no such thing as
neous, liberated way. Her seminal ‘Little a fixed image or signature style, arguing
Image’ series of 1946 to 1949, produced instead for organic cycles of growth that
after the couple moved to Springs in East reflected her changing experiences. ‘My
Hampton, is testament to this influence, painting is so autobiographical, if anyone
each small, thickly textured canvas can take the trouble to read it,’ she
bursting with complex geometric pat- observed. For instance, the violent con-
terns. Yet for a long time these stayed trasts and darker hues in her ‘Umber’
within the walls of the house on Long series (1959–1961) – sometimes known
Island, out of public view, as Krasner as ‘Night Journeys’ because they were
simply did not have the time or volition painted while Krasner was suffering from
to fight for her right to be exhibited. a protracted bout of insomnia – convey
Krasner with Jackson
‘I couldn’t run out and do a one-woman Pollock in Springs, East the anger she felt after her mother’s death.
job on the sexist aspects of the art world, Hampton, in 1949 Their earthy tones soon give way to the
continue my painting and stay in the role I was in as Mrs Pollock,’ vibrancy of the ‘Primary’ series, perhaps
she explained. ‘I just couldn’t do that much.’ reflecting her growing sense of artistic independence. This new-
The energetic collages Krasner produced in 1955 – including found energy reaches its zenith in Combat (1965), which features
Desert Moon, in which black and mauve scraps of paper slice through swathes of hot fuchsia pink that tussle forcefully with sections of
a crimson backdrop in strong, vertical lines – express how strongly saturated orange.
she was trying to resist succumbing to despair, while her husband’s Krasner did achieve recognition during her lifetime, particularly
alcoholism was worsening by the day. ‘As Jackson’s fame grew, he with the rise of feminism in the 1970s – an optimistic period during
became more and more tortured,’ she later remembered. ‘My help, which she created triumphantly colourful works such as Palingenesis
assistance and encouragement seemed insufficient.’ By the summer (a term that refers to the concept of regeneration or new birth). Yet
of 1956, their marriage was at breaking point: Pollock had embarked she continued to be frustrated by critics’ tendency to assess her in
on an affair with Ruth Kligman, an exceptionally attractive 26-year- the context of her relationship with Pollock. ‘I have never denied
old painter, and in July Krasner announced that she was going on a that Pollock had an influence on my work. But then, so did Mond-
three-week trip to Europe, giving her husband space to make his rian, Picasso and Matisse,’ she wrote in 1979, five years before her
mind up about their future. The following month, with the trial sepa- death. At the Barbican this month, Krasner’s oeuvre will speak for
ration still underway, Pollock set out in his Oldsmobile convertible itself, its variety and vitality an exuberant testament to an artist who
in the company of Kligman and her friend, Edith Metzger. Having deserves to be remembered as far more than one half of a couple.
been drinking heavily, he crashed the car into a thicket less than a ‘Lee Krasner: Living Colour’ is at Barbican Art Gallery (www.barbican.
mile from the house, killing himself and Metzger. Krasner, who was org.uk) from 30 May to 1 September. The accompanying book, edited
by Eleanor Nairne (£35, Thames & Hudson and Barbican), is published
on 30 May. ‘Lee Krasner: A Biography’ by Gail Levin (£12.99, Thames
& Hudson) is out now.
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Right: Krasner in
1976, working on
the series ‘Eleven
Ways to Use the
Word See’

Left: her ‘Desert


Moon’ (1955).
Below: ‘Mister Blue’
(1966)

‘Self-portrait’
(1928). Right:
‘Earth No 1’
(1969)
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THE WINGS OF
A DOVE
Enchanting gowns in feathers, taffeta and tulle
let the imagination take flight
Photographs by RICHARD PHIBBS
Styled by MIRANDA ALMOND
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All prices throughout from a selection,


except where stated. Tulle dress,
Gaultier Paris. White gold and diamond
earrings; gold, platinum and
diamond ring, both Cartier
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THIS PAGE and


OPPOSITE: lamé dress,
Dior Haute Couture.
Sequined cap, Stephen Jones
for Dior Haute Couture.
Pink gold and diamond ring,
£4,600, Dior Joaillerie

RICHARD PHIBBS
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РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS

Taffeta dress; taffeta cape,


both Valentino Haute
Couture. White gold,
quartz, tourmaline and
diamond earrings, Chopard

RICHARD PHIBBS
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RICHARD PHIBBS
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Taffeta dress, Giambattista Valli


Haute Couture. White gold,
platinum and diamond earrings;
white gold, diamond, pearl
and sapphire ring (top); white
gold and diamond ring, all
Van Cleef & Arpels
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THIS PAGE and


OPPOSITE: embroidered
tulle, feather and pearl
body; beaded lace skirt,
both Givenchy Haute
Couture. Platinum, rose
gold and pink and white
diamond earrings; gold and
yellow and white diamond
ring, both De Beers

RICHARD PHIBBS
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Tulle dress, Viktor & Rolf Haute


Couture. Metallic leather shoes
(just seen), £425, Malone
Souliers. White gold, emerald
and diamond earrings;
matching ring, both Chopard

RICHARD PHIBBS
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THIS PAGE: gauze dress,


Schiaparelli Haute Couture.
White gold and diamond
earrings; gold and yellow
and white diamond ring,
both De Beers. OPPOSITE:
silk mix dress, £3,840, Alberta
Ferretti Limited Edition.
Earrings, as before; matching
ring, both De Beers

RICHARD PHIBBS
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THIS PAGE: tulle dress; satin


heels, both Atelier Versace.
White gold and diamond
earrings; matching rings,
all Van Cleef & Arpels.
OPPOSITE: embroidered dress,
Chanel Haute Couture. Gold
and diamond earrings, £5,500;
gold and diamond ring, £6,000,
both Chanel Fine Jewellery

RICHARD PHIBBS
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THIS PAGE: silk dress; felt


headpiece, both Giambattista
Valli Haute Couture. White
gold and diamond earrings,
De Beers. Metallic leather shoes
(just seen), £425, Malone
Souliers. OPPOSITE:
embellished Lurex brocade
dress; organza-flower headpiece,
both Dolce & Gabbana Alta
Moda. Coral, diamond and
gemstone earrings; matching
necklace, both Dolce &
Gabbana Alta Gioielleria

RICHARD PHIBBS
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Silk and ostrich-feather dress,


Alexis Mabille Haute Couture.
Platinum, rose gold, pink and white
diamond earrings; white gold
and diamond ring, both De Beers.
See Stockists for details. Hair by
Bjorn Krischker at Frank Agency,
using Leonor Greyl. Make-up by
Anita Keeling at One Represents,
using Giorgio Armani Beauty.
Manicure by Tinu Bello at
One Represents, using OPI.
Stylist’s assistant: Georgia
Medley. Production by Lucy
Watson Productions. Props
stylist: Ida Jacobsson-Wells.
Flowers by Swallows & Damsons.
Model: Cora Emmanuel at
Premier Model Management.
Shot at Holland Park Orangery

RICHARD PHIBBS
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РЕЛИЗ ПОДГОТОВИЛА ГРУППА "What's News" VK.COM/WSNWS

BEAUTY

Edited by KATY YOUNG

Make-up using
Chanel Les Beiges
Water-Fresh Tint and
Hydra Beauty Camellia
Water Cream
FLOWERS BY GRACE & THORN (WWW.GRACEANDTHORN.COM).

Joie de vivre
Express a natural radiance this summer. Plus, the return of fluttering lashes;
and a fleeting meeting of scent and design
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Coming
up rosy
Now’s the time to let your skin glow with a fresh
approach to make-up and skincare
By SIÂN RANSCOMBE

Make-up by Ninni Nummela, using


Hydra Beauty Camellia Water Cream;
Les Beiges Water-Fresh Tint;
Palette Essentielle in Eclat Solaire, all
Chanel. Gold and diamond earrings,
£5,500, Chanel Fine Jewellery
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BEAUTY BAZAAR

Les Beiges Water-Fresh Tint;


Hydra Beauty Nourishing Lip
Care; Sourcils Sculpting
Eyebrow Pencil in Blond Clair,
all Chanel. Silk dress, £3,660,
Alberta Ferretti. Gold and
diamond earrings, £5,500,
Chanel Fine Jewellery

BETINA DU TOIT
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Les Beiges Water-Fresh


Tint; Palette Essentielle
in Beige Medium;
Les Beiges Healthy
Glow Lip Balm in
Intense (on lips and
cheeks), all Chanel

of make-up, rather than using it as a mask to hide behind,’ says Ninni


Nummela, the make-up artist and UK ambassador for Chanel, who
created the looks on these pages. ‘This evens tone in an invisible way
by acting like a “second-skin”, while letting your own shine through.’
Clearly then, the skin beneath should be in top condition; and
perhaps this newfound willingness to bare (nearly) all is partly due
to the fact that consumers are so product-savvy these days. Skincare
is the biggest category in beauty on Net-A-Porter, with sales of
facial-massage tools performing particularly well (up 189 per cent);
and Kate Bancroft, the founder of the online retailer Face the Future,
reports that searches for science-led, doctor-backed brands have
increased by almost 150 per cent over the past year. While it might
seem as though a new wonder ingredient is found every other

T
week, today’s sophisticated customer knows that sun protection,
brightening vitamin C and cell-renewing retinol are the building

SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS. FLOWERS BY GRACE & THORN (WWW.GRACEANDTHORN.COM)


blocks of any effective routine.
‘With these three essentials you will have the basics covered,’ says
the consultant dermatologist Dr Justine Kluk. ‘But to improve skin
quality with little downtime, the best treatments include superficial-
he wellness movement, with its emphasis on to medium-depth chemical peels such as mandelic or glycolic acid,
clean eating, minimal alcohol and plenty of injectable hyaluronic acid-based skin moisturisation treatments like
exercise, has gone a long way to transform Prof hilo, or a course of dermatologist-grade micro-needling treat-
public perception of what it is to lead a healthy ments for reducing acne scars and stimulating collagen production.’
life. Arguably, though, it’s had an equally far- Consistency in a regime is key to beautiful skin, but so too is
reaching effect on our perception of beauty. prepping it in the event you do choose to wear make-up. ‘Cleansing
These days, a post-yoga glow is what we desire; but the realities of and moisturising with hydrating products is the most important
modern-day living, work-related stress and skin-sapping pollution step to create a glowing base, and massaging them in well will stimu-
all too often get in the way. Fortunately, help is at hand even if your late the blood flow,’ says Nummela, who favours Chanel’s Hydra
day didn’t start with 5am sun salutations followed by a turmeric shot. Beauty Camellia Water Cream to soothe dehydrated, dull skin
Chanel has promoted the idea of embracing natural luminosity before make-up.
since the 2013 launch of its Les Beiges collection, but the latest addi- And finally, a light touch is needed to accentuate that post-
tion to the range takes that message one step further. Eau de Teint exercise sheen recreated on the catwalks. ‘Work the products into
Water-Fresh Tint is a 92 per cent aqueous formula containing micro- your skin, never cake them on,’ says Nummela. ‘Dab a natural high-
droplets of pigment that melt on contact for a fresher, sheer finish. lighter onto the top of the cheekbones and down the nose, and blend
‘For me, it has always been about enhancing your skin with the help a blush high onto the apples of the cheeks for a healthy flush.’
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BEAUTY BAZAAR

Les Beiges Water-Fresh Tint;


Baume Essentiel in Transparent; Palette
Essentielle in Eclat Solaire, all Chanel.
Silk dress, £5,920; slip dress, £4,735,
both Chanel. Gold and diamond
earrings, £4,225, Chanel Fine Jewellery.
Make-up by Ninni Nummela at
Streeters, using Chanel Beauty. Hair by
Alain Pichon at CLM Hair & Make-up,
using Oribe. Manicure by Ami Streets
at LMC Worldwide, using Orly. Beauty
director: Katy Young. Styled by Rosie
Arkell-Palmer. Model: Ina Jensen at
Premier Model Management

BETINA DU TOIT
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DISCOVER OUR
LUXURY TR AVEL
BEAUTY EDIT
This limited-edition beauty box, curated exclusively by the Harper’s Bazaar beauty team,
features £205 worth of essential travel beauty products for only £50

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PHOTOGRAPHS: LUCKY IF SHARP. *IN RARE CIRCUMSTANCES, THE CONTENTS OF THE BOX MAY VARY

1 Nars Velvet Lip Glide (Immoral or Burning Love). 2 Bobbi Brown Mascara. 3 Benefit Gimme Brow (shade 3). 4 Kérastase Eau de Vagues.
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8 Sol de Janeiro Bum Bum Cream. 9 Leighton Denny Nail Varnish in Provocative. 10 Dr Dennis Gross Universal Peel Pads.
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BEAUTY BAZAAR

MY
MOODBOARD
The mother and daughter
behind Chantecaille on the
brand’s fragrant collaboration
with de Gournay

The rose de Mai, which blooms for only three weeks


a year, is the rare and exquisite ingredient in
Chantecaille’s most luxurious products. Now it’s at the
heart of the brand’s collaboration with the design house
de Gournay. ‘We wanted to celebrate the rose de Mai,
and chose to collaborate with de Gournay because of
our shared love of botanicals and craftsmanship,’
explains the creative director Olivia Chantecaille.
The two-piece collection heralds the return of
Chantecaille’s Darby Rose fragrance, originally
launched in 1999. It is accompanied by a new Lumière
Rose highlighter presented in a unique print, the first
time a de Gournay design has featured roses.
‘I have always loved de Gournay wallpaper… and the
collection was conceived as the perfect feminine
celebration of these unique blooms wrapped in this
amazing packaging,’ says the beauty brand’s founder,
Olivia’s mother Sylvie. The limited-edition products are
only available in May, mirroring the rose de Mai’s brief
yet glorious harvest, so they are set to be as precious
as the flower that inspired them. BECKI MURRAY
Darby Rose fragrance, £188 for 75ml; Lumière Rose
highlighter, £69, both Chantecaille x de Gournay.
PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF CHANTECAILLE, FABRIZIO FERRI,
DAVID SLIJPER, HARRY CORY WRIGHT, LUCKY IF SHARP

Sylvie Chantecaille
in her debutante
days in Paris

Background: de Gournay’s
hand-painted wallpaper created
with Chantecaille, featuring
the Darby rose

www.harpersbazaar.com/uk June 2019 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | 173


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£19.50
Bobbi
BAZAAR BEAUTY
Ultra Precise Eyeliner Brush,
Brown
£23.50 Bobbi Brown

Dark drama
Gently dot Bobbi Brown’s
Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner along the
waterline for a wide-eyed finish.
FREEWITH THIS ISSUE

Bobbi Brown
P R A DA

Smokey Eye Mascara


£20
Clinique WORTH
£12.50*
Shine on
Press a sheen
cream such as
Clinique’s Chubby
Stick Sculpting
Highlight below
the brow bone and
on the inner corners
of the lash-line
for a beautiful
moonlit effect.
Fringe
benef its
‘The Smokey Eye
Mascara by Bobbi
Brown is perfect for
that full, feathery
effect. Apply from
the root to build
volume and curl
in the lashes,’
says Conway.
£22
Bobbi Brown
ZI M M E R M A N N

Subtle shadow
‘A warm peach or bronze
shade on the eyelids and
cheeks has a wonderfully
CONDITIONS: TRAVEL-SIZE FREE GIFT ONLY AVAILABLE WITH NEWSSTAND

flattering brightening effect,’


PHOTOGRAPHS: MOLLY SJ LOWE, IMAXTREE, LUCKY IF SHARP. *TERMS &

advises Amy Conway, the


senior pro artist for Bobbi
Brown. Try Bobbi Brown
ISSUES; EXCLUDES BUMPER PACKS AND DIGITAL EDITIONS

Pot Rouge for Lips and

The
Cheeks in Fresh Melon, or
E TRO

MAC’s Cream Colour Base


in Improper Copper.

Sixties revival
£19 MAC

Spring/summer 2019 sees the return of beatnik eyes in a softer, prettier guise
www.harpersbazaar.com/uk June 2019 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | 175
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ESCAPE

Edited by LUCY HALFHEAD

HIGH
SUMMER
PHOTOGRAPH: RICHARD WAITE

The joy of exploring the green meadows and leafy trails of the
French Alps. Plus, Europe’s most glorious grandes dames hotels

The view from the


Four Seasons
Hotel Megève
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Above: the Four


Seasons Hotel Megève.
Left: its Suite du
Mont d’Arbois

A
BR EATH
OF FRESH
AIR
Following in the footsteps of literary legends, Justine Picardie discovers
the peaceful pleasures of meandering on the slopes of Mont Blanc

Left: Les Fermes de


Marie. Below: the
hotel’s indoor pool
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ESCAPE

A
n ardent reader can fall in love with a place long
before ever travelling there; and so it was with me,
and my fantasy of an Alpine summer. As a child,
I had dreamt of joining Heidi in the flower-clad
meadows that surrounded her grandfather’s moun-
tain cabin, an idyll where ‘she drank in the golden sunlight, the fresh
air… and wished for nothing better than to remain there forever.’
In time, when I came to study the Romantic poets as an under-
graduate, Lord Byron appeared beside Heidi in the landscape of
my imagination, with his vision of grandeur:
‘Mont Blanc is the monarch of mountains:/ Right: Les Fermes de
They crowned him long ago/On a throne Marie. Below: its
Rochebrune Suite.
of rocks in a robe of clouds –/With a dia-
Bottom: the pool at
dem of snow…’ Byron’s contemporary, Percy the Four Seasons
Bysshe Shelley, who journeyed with him
on a pilgrimage to the Alps in the summer
of 1816, was similarly inspired (‘Far, far
above, piercing the infinite sky,/Mont
Blanc appears, – still, snowy, and serene…’).
So, too, was Shelley’s wife Mary, who set
key scenes of her novel Frankenstein against
the majestic backdrop of this, the highest point of its peaks. If Heidi could scramble
mountain in Europe. up precipitous crags as a little girl, then
It took me several decades to discover surely I could do the same?
this dramatic terrain for myself, accompa- Several hours of strenuous hiking later,
nied by my husband (a rather more lovable with frequent pauses to catch my breath,
travelling companion than Frankenstein’s I was as impressed by Heidi’s courage as I
monster, and less prone to melodrama had been in childhood; but the view of
than Lord Byron). True, Philip initially Mont Blanc was more spectacular than
thought that my desire to go to the Alps in anything I had previously imagined, even
August was somewhat perverse, given his grander than its appearance in Romantic
penchant for skiing and winter sports. But as soon as we arrived in poetry. At the summit of Mont D’Arbois, the air was crystalline, the
Megève, a resort originally conceived as a French alternative to sky as blue as the wild gentians in the meadows below, and beyond,
St Moritz by the Rothschild family in the 1920s, its allure became the sunlight sparkling on the snow-capped heights.
apparent to both of us. We were staying at the new Four Seasons, We were blessed with clear skies for most of our time in the Alps,
just above the town, nestled on the slopes of Mont d’Arbois. Despite discovering new vistas and a sense of immense peace. Thanks to the
its recent construction the hotel already looks well-established, concierge at our second hotel, Les Fermes de Marie, who provided
thanks to a softly weathered timber cladding, and welcoming maps and expert advice on cable cars, we ventured further into the
interiors that display a remarkable art collection (courtesy of the mountains than would have been possible entirely on foot; and
owners, descendants of Baroness Noémie de Rothschild, who first everywhere we went was blissfully free of crowds. Megève certainly
discovered Megève just after World War I). isn’t empty in the summer months – both the Four Seasons and Les
Such are the delights of the Four Seasons, with its sybaritic Fermes de Marie were filled with convivial family gatherings as well
pool, superb spa, and exceptional restaurants (not to mention one of as solitary hikers – but as soon as you leave the pretty little town,
PHOTOGRAPHS: ALAMY, RICHARD WAITE, MARTIN MORRELL, © GREG FINCK

the best wine cellars in France), that it would be easy to stay put, and it is possible to walk for hours without encountering another soul.
simply enjoy the views from the terrace. But Mont Blanc beckoned, There is much to be said for doing as we did, and trying out each
and a footpath leads directly from the hotel to a spectacular vantage hotel: the Four Seasons is 10 minutes’ drive from Megève (or an
exhilarating ride by bicycle, as we discovered one day), while Les
Fermes de Marie is closer to the town centre, yet still very quiet
and surrounded by several acres of beautifully tended gardens.
A grown-up Heidi would feel perfectly at home in each property,
though Les Fermes de Marie is more traditional, a small hamlet of
rustic wooden chalets, built out of reclaimed barns, with a central
dining-room warmed by a big log fire, where delicious local dishes
are accompanied by bonhomie and abundant good cheer.
But above all, it is the mountains that make Megève so magical;
and in my mind’s eye, they are already urging me to return…
Four Seasons Hotel Megève, from £550 a room a night (www.fourseasons.
com/megeve). Les Fermes de Marie, from £290 a room a night B&B
(www.fermesdemarie.com).

June 2019 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | 179


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B E L M O N D H OT E L C I P R I A N I
VENICE
Pulling up to the Belmond Hotel Cipriani in a bur-
nished wooden water taxi, it is hard not to imagine
yourself starring in a Fellini film. This Venice land-
mark has sweeping views across the lagoon,
Murano-glass fixtures and multi-course delight at
the restaurant, Oro. The hotel concierge can
arrange a visit to the Fondazione Querini Stamp-
alia, a museum and library housed in an ancient
palazzo, a secret world hidden away from the
day-trippers and tour guides. Later, enjoy dinner
at the exquisite and eccentric Alajmo restaurant,
overlooking St Mark’s Square. ALEX PRESTON
Inspiring Travel Company offers a seven-night stay at
Belmond Hotel Cipriani, from £2,469 a person (www.
inspiringtravelcompany.com).

THE GR AND TOUR Our favourite European havens of historic splendour


and glamorous allure

H ÔT E L D E TO I R A S
ILE DE RÉ
A few nights in Hôtel de Toiras
are as restorative as a month
anywhere else. This iconic
property reflects the style and
friendliness you find through-
out the magical island of Ile
de Ré, steeped in history and
ringed with glorious seascapes.
FRÉDÉRIC DUCOUT, KRISTINA HARRISON, YDO SOL
PHOTOGRAPHS: TYSON SADLO, JACQUES LEBAR,

From the windows of our beautiful room, complete


with working marble fireplace and pale-blue-silk-
canopied bed, we watched the comings and goings
of the boats and the fisherman in the ancient Saint-
Martin harbour below. Gold-framed portraits and
fresh flowers filled the elegant sitting-room, while in
the pretty pink dining-room, we were served exquis-
itely fresh turbot washed down with wine from the
owners’ vineyards in Bordeaux. JULIET NICOLSON
Hôtel de Toiras, from about £190 a room a night (www.hotel
-de-toiras.com).

www.harpersbazaar.com/uk
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ESCAPE
D ’A N G L E T E R R E CO P E N H AG E N
Decorated in an elegant palette of lilacs and greys,
Copenhagen’s famous hotel, the D’Angleterre, stands
on a grand square just across from the multicoloured
houses and sailboats of Nyhavn. Founded in 1755,
this urban retreat is now home to a magnificent
spa (with the city’s only indoor pool), a champagne
bar and the Michelin-starred Marchal restaurant,
where the talented chef Andreas Bagh blends
Nordic and French cuisine. Make sure to save room
for the hotel’s bountiful breakfast buffet, which
includes baskets of seeded crispbreads, huge wedges
of cheese and bowls of dried fruit. LUCY HALFHEAD
Quintessentially Travel offers a three-night stay at
D’Angleterre, from £1,570 a person (www.quintessentially
travel.com).

H OT E L G R A N D E B R E TAG N E AT H E N S
Over the past few years, Athens has quietly become one of the
most vibrant and artistically interesting places in Europe. We
went for a few days, feeling ourselves pulled into the city’s
past, while falling in love with its present. At Hotel Grande
Bretagne, the choice of world leaders and Hollywood’s A list,
glamorous interiors hark back to the hotel’s debut in 1874,
from the potted palm-trees and ornate ceiling of the Winter
Garden to the vast antique tapestry in Alexander’s Bar. The
Parthenon is an easy walk away, or you can simply admire
the superb view of the Acropolis from the rooftop restaurant. AP
Hotel Grande Bretagne, from about £320 a room a night (www.
marriott.com).

H OT E L LO C A R N O R O M E
When in Rome, join the fashionable crowd
at the fabulous Hotel Locarno, sitting between
the river and Villa Borghese park, and just a pace
or two from the Spanish Steps. Founded in 1925,
this art deco gem was frequented by the Twenties
movie and literary elite, including Mimmo
Palladino and Enzo Cucchi, and is still a cultural
magnet today. Two early-19th-century houses
are linked by an enchanting garden restaurant,
and there’s one of the buzziest cocktail bars in
the city. Downstairs, you’ll find antique furni-
ture, rich velvet sofas and gorgeous murals,
while the contemporary comforts of the sunny,
high-ceilinged bedrooms are unparalleled. JN
Hotel Locarno, from about £215 a room a night
(www.hotellocarno.com).
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FLASH!
Arizona Muse Elizabeth
Day

Helena Mary Greenwell


Kennedy
Jessica McCormack, Justine
Picardie and Emilia Wickstead

SPIR IT OF
UNITY
Positivity filled the air at two inspiring
events promoting female solidarity
Edited by CHARLOTTE BROOK
In celebration of International Women’s Day, Harper’s
Bazaar and Chanel came together to host two glittering Margaret Clunie
gatherings. Gemma Arterton, Helena Kennedy and Josie
Rourke, the director of Mary Queen of Scots, were among
Colleen Caslin and
the headline speakers at an exclusive gala dinner at the
Sasha Slater
Connaught. As guests sipped Laurent-Perrier Champagne
Whitney Bromberg in the mirrored Mayfair Room, Arterton applauded the rise
Hawkings in complex female film roles since the start of the #MeToo
movement, while Justine Picardie, Bazaar’s editor-in-chief,
discussed the empowering links between fashion and
feminism. ‘Even in the darkest hour,’ she said, ‘women have
defined themselves with the mark of courage, whether it be
a red lipstick or a Chanel little black dress.’
The following day, friends of the magazine gathered in the
private salon above Chanel’s Bond Street store for an

Stephanie Phair

Antonia
Romeo

Jenny Halpern Prince


PHOTOGRAPHS: OLIVER HOLMS

and Bodil Blain

Jacqueline Euwe

Leo Davis and


Josie Rourke
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Ruth Kennedy

Lydia Slater

Leo Davis and Gina Rippon

Greta Bellamacina

Gemma Arterton

Tanuja Randery and


Sandrine Deveaux

intimate lunch. Among those seated at the long table,


which was beautifully adorned with white anemones, roses
Laura Carmichael and lilacs, were Emilia Wickstead, Laura Carmichael and
and Roksanda Ilincic
Stephanie Phair, the chair of the British Fashion Council.
Jessica McCormack, sparkling in her own jewellery, shared
a warm embrace with the Flowerbx entrepreneur Whitney
Bromberg Hawkings, and Roksanda Ilincic discussed her
triumphant London Fashion Week show with the actress
Gala Gordon. The model and activist Arizona Muse rose to
her feet to share her memories of working with Karl Lagerfeld
and to speak movingly of her hopes for her new baby
daughter, before the elegant assembly raised their glasses
‘to mothers, daughters, sisters and friends’. ELLA PHILLIPS

Sarah Chapman

Emilia
Wickstead

Justine Picardie Jessica


and Jo Allison McCormack Sophie Dahl
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STOCKISTS

A H–L
Alberta Ferretti and Alberta Ferretti Limited Edition (020 7235 2349; Hampson Woods (07980 648773; www.hampsonwoods.com) Hermès
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Couture (www.alexismabille.com) Annette Görtz (www.annettegoertz.net) www.irisvanherpen.com) Issey Miyake (020 7851 4620;
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80 00; www.armani.com) Aspinal of London (020 3326 5008; www.aspinal Jessica McCormack (020 7491 9999; www.jessica mccormack.com)
of london.com) Atelier Swarovski (020 7016 3200; www.swarovski.com) Jimmy Choo (www.jimmychoo.com) JW Anderson (www.j-w-anderson.com)
Atelier Versace (020 7259 5700; www.versace.com) Kate Spade New York (020 7287 1581; www.katespade.co.uk)
Kiki McDonough (020 7730 3323; www.kiki.co.uk) Le Monde Beryl (07415
B 790635; www.lemondeberyl.com) Levi’s (020 7292 2500; www.levi.com)
Ba&sh (020 7584 2170; www.ba-sh.com) Balenciaga (020 7317 4400; Liberty (020 7734 1234; www.libertylondon.com) Longchamp (020 7493 5515;
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x Valentino (www.birkenstock.com) Boghossian (020 7495 0885; Louis Vuitton (020 7998 6286; www.louisvuitton.com)
www.boghossianjewels.com) Boodles (020 7437 5050; www.boodles.com)
Bottega Veneta (020 7838 9394; www.bottegaveneta.com) Brock Collection M–N
(www.brock-collection.com) Brunello Cucinelli (020 7287 4347; Maisons du Monde (0808 234 2172; www.maisonsdumonde.com)
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C Moda Operandi (020 7235 9153; www.modaoperandi.com) Mother of Pearl
Cartier (020 7408 9192; www.cartier.co.uk) Casatales (+31 62 285 8816; (www.motherofpearl.co.uk) Net-A-Porter (www.net-a-porter.com)
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www.chanel.com) Chanel Haute Couture (+33 1 44 50 70 00; www.chanel. www.pomellato.com) Prada (www.prada.com) Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
com) Chaumet (020 7495 6303; www.chaumet.com) Chloe Gosselin (www.preenbythorntonbregazzi.com) Ralph & Russo Couture (020 8878
(www.chloegosselin.com) Chopard (020 7287 8710; www.chopard.com) 5399; www.ralphandrusso.com) Ralph Lauren Collection (020 7535 4600;
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Edit 58 (www.edit58.com) Emilia Wickstead (020 7235 1104; and Tabitha Simmons x Johanna Ortiz (www.tabithasimmons.com) TAG
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(www.gabrielahearst.com) Gaultier Paris (www.jeanpaulgaultier.com) 0400; www.vancleefarpels.com) Versace (020 7259 5700; www.versace.com)
Giambattista Valli Haute Couture (www.giambattistavalli.com) Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture (www.viktor-rolf.com) Vivienne Westwood
Giorgio Armani (020 7235 6232; www.armani.com) Givenchy and (020 7439 1109; www.viviennewestwood.com) Wald Berlin (www.wald-berlin.de)
Givenchy Haute Couture (020 7199 2919; www.givenchy.com) Gucci William & Son (020 7493 8385; www.williamandson.com) Yves Salomon
(020 7235 6707; www.gucci.com) (www.yves-salomon.com) Zaeem Jamal (020 7100 2072; www.zaeemjamal.com)

184 | H A R P E R’ S B A Z A A R | June 2019 www.harpersbazaar.com/uk


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BE AUTY EDIT

Day to Night
Natural Polish Foundation

Finally a smartly-edited,
high-performance, makeup range
designed for modern life

CODE8: ENOUGH Simplicity


OF THE BEAUTY DICTATORSHIP Code8 believes that, in a world of
increasing cosmetic complexity &
Beauty is a beautiful thing but there’s a little confusion, simplicity is a beautiful thing.
too much cosmetic everything out there and That’s enough for us.
it’s all getting a little overwhelming. How about you?
Clarity
From the cloned look and Code8 believes that the most precious
contouring craziness to time-saving thing you can get is complete
unattainable filtered beauty clarity around your look.
posts, endless palettes and the Which is why we’ll help you define and
lengthy tutorials, many are Glazé Iconoclast Eyeshadow Palette refine it in the simplest and most efficient
chasing larger-than-life looks Intense Colour Lacquer Jaipur Marbles way possible.
that are both unsustainable Economy
and unsuitable to the lives Code8 believes that in a world of too
we lead. much cosmetic everything, an economy
of choice, effect, application and time is
So we said ENOUGH and YOUR CODE8 a good thing. Time is the most precious
designed a beauty range fit for SUMMER ESSENTIALS thing we have: let’s not waste it.
the life we actually have. Respect
Code8 believes respect begins and ends
Highly edited and infinitely with us. Which is why we say ‘ENOUGH’
wearable Code8 delivers of the beauty dictatorship and the makeup
curated looks that take you clone culture. We’ve got better things to
from natural to polished to do with our lives and talents.
dramatic.
Visit codeeight.com or @code8beauty
That’s it. That’s all. on Instagram, Facebook and YouTube
for more information or visit the store
Discover @code8beauty Lash Sophisticate Highlight Decode for expert application tips at 4
#findyourcode High Definition Mascara Sculpting HD Palette 3 in 1 Makeup Remover Burlington Arcade in Mayfair.
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ESSENTI A LS EDIT

LOOK YOUNGER LONGER REGENTIV


SPECIALIST SERUM (WITH RETINOL)
This delicate and oh so effective serum for lines, wrinkles, crepey eyes
and neck, vertical lip lines, sun damage and much more. flopZ
Unique formulation of retinol, aloe vera, vitamin E, SPF, moisturiser – Beautiful flip flops with a unique
perfect to use twice daily. Four sizes from £29.95 to £149. Free UK P&P. massaging sensation.
To receive exclusive 10% reader discount apply code HARPERS6 when These comfortable flip flops with vibrantly colourful coral reef designs
ordering. www.regentiv.com or call 01923 212555 for advice or to order. will revolutionise your holiday footwear. £30.
See website for full range and special offers. www.flopz.com

FOREST HIVE® ‘HOME SPA’


AMEERA LONDON The perfect synergy between concentrated plant extracts and
We are an authentic Moroccan family owned business who specialise in collagen-boosting facial workouts. Simply combine our best-selling
delivering one hundred percent pure organic Argan oil formula, with the 26 Bioactive Botanicals serum with the motions of FH® Y-Shape
aim to revitalise your skin and nourish your hair. massage roller for maximum nutrient absorption and firmness.
www.ameeralondon.com Visit www.foresthive.com and follow @foresthive on Instagram.
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FA SHION EDIT
Y VONNE BOSNJAK
Where elegance meets
excellence, is where
Yvonne Bosnjak finds
inspiration to design women’s
prêt-a-porter clothing.
The concept of minimalism
and monochromatic is firmly
embedded into the brand’s
identity, which features in
all collections. The designer
successfully blends together
timeless essentials with
statement pieces and passion
with confidence, celebrating
femininity. Carefully curated
details, high quality fabrics and
flawless design lines, lie at the
heart of each new collection.
Visit www.yvonnebosnjak.com
and follow on Instagram
@Yvonnebosnjak to shop the
full collection.

DECIÈLIS
Founded by London College of Fashion graduate Zoë Kara Hili, Decièlis
scarves introduces an exclusive range of silk accessories from
turban head bands to bandeaus precisely pattern cut to achieve the
ultimate gorgeous silken knots. Discover Decièlis’ kaleidoscopic range of
signature hand-illustrated prints made in Italy. With the spirit of travel at
the soul of the brand founder Zoë poetically combines geometric THE PERFECT SILK SWEATER!
motifs with art-deco and postmodern inspirations to create a timeless Warm in Winter. Cool in Summer. In a stunning range of colours. £65.
collection epitomising the modern-day woman traveller. Colour shown Canary.
Discover the collection at: Decielis.com / IG: @decielis Visit: frenchvelvet.co.uk or call to order on 01325 460669.
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BIJOUX EDIT

EIGHT MOONS
Eight Moons is a collection
of luxury jewellery, elevated
with the mystical vitality of
crystals. Their distinct pieces
are celestially inspired, designed
to protect and energize the
wearer by fusing traditional
craftsmanship with modern
geometric designs. These
dynamic yet eclectic styles
range from their coveted cage
necklaces to bracelets and rings,
always worn effortlessly from
the beaches of Malibu to the
galleries of Manhattan – or
anywhere you need a little
magic. Discover more at
www.eightmoonsjewelry.com
and on IG @EightMoonsJewelry

CLELIA S. JEWELLERY
Mythology-inspired fine jewellery brand created by Chiara Santilli. IN A NUTSHELL
She designs, hand-carves and brings her wearable sculptures to life Bursting with symbolism Christin Ranger’s sterling silver acorn locket
through the lost-wax technique. Made of gold and precious gemstones, opens to reveal a secret, a beautiful golden heart. The perfect gift for
rich in exquisite detail and symbolism that evoke a sense of empowerment, someone special. The In A Nutshell locket comes on a 24 inch sterling
her work is internationally recognised and exhibited in art galleries. silver chain and is presented in a Christin Ranger jewellery box.
Discover more about this emerging talent and her enticing jewellery by £75 P+P included. Shop now at www.Christinranger.com
following @clelia.s_jewellery on Instagram. www.clelia-s-jewellery.com Order by telephone at 01424 773091 See website for stockists
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BIJOUX EDIT

SOPHIE HARLEY LONDON


Dive into the summer season with these shimmering diamond studded Atlantis earrings
created by Sophie Harley. Made in 18ct gold, featuring seashells and beautifully textured sand
dollars, they are set with a total of 54 brilliant cut white diamonds and each finished with a
dazzling .57ct briolette cut white diamond drop.

Sophie Harley is celebrated for her intricately designed handmade jewellery.


She welcomes clients to her Notting Hill studio to buy from existing collections or to have
their own bespoke pieces created.

View the Atlantis collection at www.sophieharley.com


or contact the studio to arrange an appointment. T: +44 (0) 20 7430 2070
E: info@sophieharley.com

ELLINAS TREASURES
“Ellina’s Treasures House” offers pieces that “mirror” the thrill for
MINA NOMIDOU storytelling and avant-garde design, striving to crack modern luxury
Mina Nomidou is an independent jewellery designer based in Athens, with a touch of raw sensuality. These understated pieces are designed
Greece who focuses on artisanal techniques. to be both functional jewellery as well as art objects inspired by Ancient
Her designs are ageless and are known for their elegance and style. Greek Times. Pictured here the magnificent best-seller Single Snake
She mainly uses semiprecious gems. In this picture you can see a pair of bracelet from our Iconic Ofis Collection.
platinum plated earrings set with amethysts, peridots and tourmalines. For Custom-orders / Inquiries contact: eirini_panag@hotmail.com
You can explore the brand at www.minanomidou.com, @minanomidou See more at: www.ellinastreasures.com and follow on Instagram
and f b: mina nomidou jewelry @Ellinas Treasures
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SOCI A L EDIT
ROBODRONE … PIONEERING
SOCIAL MEDIA ENABLING ART
BY
NATASHA GRANO
INSTAGRAM NEWS PRESENTER AND INFLUENCER

On February 14, 2019, I had the pleasure of attending the launch of artist
Robodrone’s new, one year long, exhibition of the convention-breaking
artform known as ‘Social Media Enabling Art’ at legendary partners
Fulvio and Cristian’s Contini Contemporary Art Gallery located in
Central London next to iconic Claridges Hotel.

As a leading international social media influencer, I use my platform to


empower people across the world which is why Robodrone’s artwork
speaks so powerfully to me and my audience of over 1M social followers.
Twitter and Facebook have both requested Robodrone’s art on loan in
2018 and 2019.

As a ‘Modern Renaissance’ artist, Robodrone has pioneered a


revolutionary moment in the evolution of social media artform’s purely
‘shoot and share’ photo platforms, such as Instagram, to new ‘Social
Media Enabling Art’ that both empowers and encourages the user/
visitor to create ‘value added’ follow-on art of their own to share
worldwide.

INgrooves, Universal Music’s digital platform division,


has released several of his novel albums including
Hashtag Queens, Download My Heart etc. As well as
the upcoming April 12, 2019 release of ‘Shadowman,
Shamanic Remix’ (iTunes, Spotify and Amazon).
Robodrone’s songs are constructed in a unique, DJ cut-
proof style with lyrics that reflect, express and celebrate the new and ongoing transformative social changes of our times.

I had the pleasure of filming an exclusive episode of my IGTV show “A Day In The Life of Natasha Grano” with the Hashtag Queens throne sculpture
that can be experienced at The Contini Gallery. This is a new artform that invites the visitor to sit on the throne to create novel ‘Instaperformance Art’
that is shared simultaneously, in two dimensions: with people in the
immediate vicinity as well as around the world via selfies and video
snaps multicast onto Social Media accounts of friends and others
for comment and feedback.

People entering the Art Exhibit are no longer visitors – they are
‘Visiting Artists’ instead, who are encouraged and enabled
by Robodrone and the Art Gallery to create and share new
Instaperformance Art as personalised artforms.

The facilitation of user-generated art perfectly reflects and


expresses the way Social Media culture works and expands. Digital
citizens are encouraged to engage, create and share continuously.
The recently published book “Social Media Enabling Art’ by
Robodrone (Apple & Amazon books) with photos by Royal
photographer, Ian Jones, illustrates this very well.
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Bazaar Fashion & Lifestyle

FOR DETAILS OF CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING PLEASE TELEPHONE 020 3728 6260 OR VISIT WWW.HEARSTMAGAZINESDIRECT.CO.UK
Björk Haraldsdóttir KATHARINE
Contemporary Handbuilt Ceramics DAVIES
www.ceramicsbybjork.com PHOTOGRAPHY
Based in Sherborne, Dorset.
Specialising in natural reportage,
lifestyle and portrait photography.

01935 813374
info@katharinedaviesphotography.co.uk
www.katharinedaviesgraphy.co.uk
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Bazaar Fashion
FOR DETAILS OF CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING PLEASE TELEPHONE 020 3728 6260 OR VISIT WWW.HEARSTMAGAZINESDIRECT.CO.UK

Develop your personal style


IRUPD[LPXPFRQ¿GHQFH
www.helenreynoldsstyle.com
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FASHION & GIFTS


ƚƥƥƥƞƚƭơƞƫ_ƢƧƟƨ#ƜƚƩƫƢƜƞƬơƨƞƬƜƨƮƤ_#ƜƚƩƫƢƜƞƬơƨƞƬ

incl. the patented


onAIR INSOLE for a better
walking experience
walking on air
- DESIGNED AND DEVELOPED IN GERMANY -

FOR DETAILS OF CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING PLEASE TELEPHONE 020 3728 6260 OR VISIT WWW.HEARSTMAGAZINESDIRECT.CO.UK
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A ZAAR
B

Leather tote,
£4,370, Gucci

PHOTOGRAPH BY PAUL ZAK


STYLED BY ROSIE WILLIAMS
SEE STOCKISTS FOR DETAILS

…SERVE UP A SWEET
SLICE OF SUMMER?
Gucci’s delicious strawberries-and-cream
tote will bring bags of Centre Court
glamour to any gathering
– definitely worth making a racket about…
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