Varios Patrones Amigurumi

Size: 3″ tall
Materials needed
Worsted weight yarn
3.50 mm (size E) hook
Stuffing
Plastic pellets
Embroidery floss
6 mm safety eyes
Head
Note: Start the head by working down one side of the starting chain, then back up the
other. This diagram may be helpful for round 1.
Rnd 1 — Ch 5. Starting with 2nd ch from hook, 3 sc, 3 sc in next st, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st. (10
sts)
Rnd 2 — [2 sc in next st, 1 sc] rep around (15 sts)
Rnd 6 — sc around (30 sts)
Rnd 7 — [sc2tog, 4 sc] rep around (25 sts)

Body
Rnd 1 — 5 sc into magic ring (5 sts)
Rnd 2 — 2 sc in each st around (10 sts)
Rnd 4-7 — sc around (15 sts)

Ears

Tail

Rnd 2-7 — sc around (6 sts)
Attach eyes and embroider whiskers on head, then stuff. Fill body with plastic pellets, then
sew body and head together. Sew on ears. Stuff tail lightly, then sew onto body.
Edam the dog pattern

New dog amigurumi pattern… Hope you like! Sorry the pics are kind of crappy right now. -_-
Size: 3″ (8 cm) tall
If you’re wondering why he is named Edam (a type of cheese)… Well, I’ve gotten into the
series Axis Powers Hetalia lately, and the character Finland (whom I love and adore :D)
wants to name his and Sweden’s puppy all sorts of bizarre names like Cheese Castle (?!).
And as I was working on this pattern, I thought it totally looked like a cheese castle. XD
Ahem. You can, of course, gives yours a more normal name. ^.^
Materials needed
Worsted weight yarn (I used Red Heart Super Saver in Cornmeal)
3.5 mm (E) hook
Stuffing
Plastic pellets
Felt
Eyes (see note below)
Notes
o Pay special attention to the shaping of the head when you’re sewing: it’s not
symmetrical. The beginning of the round is at the back of the head, and the cheeks
puff out in front. Do not overstuff the head! The shaping is subtle and loses its form
if you put too much stuffing in, so it’s better to stuff moderately and use your fingers
to squish the head into shape.
o I used the invisible decrease for the head; it looks nicer here than a regular
decrease.
o Fasten off each part with a slip stitch. Leave long tails for sewing the parts together.
o For the eyes I used 4.5 mm “safety” eyes that don’t have washers—that makes them
decidedly unsafe! They work for me with a dab of glue because my ami’s are mostly
just displayed on a shelf, but if yours will be handled a lot, I recommend using
something else for the eyes, especially if you are giving it to a child. Try felt, yarn,
paint, buttons, beads, etc.

o Feel free to add decorative details!
Head
Rnd 1 – 5 sc into magic ring (5 sts)
Rnd 2 – 2 sc in each st around (10 sts)
Rnd 3 – [2 sc in next st, 1 sc] rep around (15 sts)
Rnd 5 – sc around (20 sts)
Rnd 8 – 5 sc, 2 sc in next 3 sts, 4 sc, 2 sc in next 3 sts, 5 sc (26 sts)
Rnd 10 – 5 sc, sc2tog 3 times, 4 sc, sc2tog 3 times, 5 sc (20 sts)
Rnd 11 – [sc2tog, 2 sc] rep around (15 sts)

Body

Rnd 2 – 2 sc in each st around (10 sts)

Legs (make 4)

Ears (make 2)

Tail

Fill bottom of body with plastic pellets and add stuffing (don’t overstuff, the bottom should
be fairly flat). Stuff legs and head. Add eyes, felt nose, and ears to head. Sew everything
together.
© 2009 Nimoe
This pattern is written by Nimoe and is for personal (nonprofit) use only. Please do not
repost or distribute it. Thank you!
Back to
Beary Jackson
Patterns
Beary was made with Lion Brand Jiffy and an H hook, to make him with worsted
weight yarn use a G hook, to make him with any other yarn simply adjust hook
size!
Head and Body:

1. 8 sc in Adjustable Ring (8)
2. Inc every sc (16)
3. Inc every other sc (24)
4. Inc every 3rd sc (32)
5. Inc every 4th sc (40)
6. Sc across (40)
7. Sc across (40)
8. Sc across (40)
9. Sc across (40)
10. Sc across (40)
11. Sc across (40)
*if you're using safety eyes be sure to attach them around this point, a few rounds
later and you won't be able to get inside*
12. Dec every 4th (32)

13. Dec every 3rd (24)
14. Dec every other (16)
*now is a good time to stuff the head*
15. Dec every sc (8)

16. Sc around (8)
17. Inc every other (12)
18. Sc around (12)
19. Sc around (12)
20. Inc every 3rd (16)
21. Sc around (16)
22. Sc around (16)
23. Sc around (16)
24. Inc every 4th (20)
25. Sc around (20)
26. Sc around (20)
*now is a good time to stuff the body*

Sew hole shut
Ears (make 2)
The ch 1 at the end of each row should not be counted as a stitch
1. 6 sc in Adjustable Ring, ch 1, turn

2. Inc every other sc, ch 1, turn (9)
3. Sc in every sc (9)
*leave a long tail when tying off to attach ears to head*
Arms (make 2)
1. 6 sc in Adjustable Ring
3. Sc around (12)
4. Sc around (12)
5. Dec every 3rd sc (9)
6. Sc around (9)
7. Dec every 3rd sc twice, sc last st (7)
8. Sc around (7)
9. Sc around (7)
10. Sc around (7)
*stuff and crochet or sew closed, again, it's good to leave a long tail to use when
sewing onto the body*
Legs (make 2)
3. Sc around (16)
4. Sc around (16)
5. Sc around (16)
6. Sc around (16)
8. Sc around (14)
9. Dec every 3rd sc 3 times, sc last 2 sts (11)
10. Sc around (11)
11. Sc around (11)
12. Dec every 2nd sc 3 times, sc last 2 sts (8)
13. Sc around (8)
14. Sc around (8)
15. Sc around (8)
*stuff and crochet or sew closed, leave a long tail to sew onto body*
Back to
Fuzzy Bodies
Patterns
THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT!:
The main reason I never wrote this pattern before now is that there are so many
different types of fuzzy yarn. There's eyelash, fun fur, and loads of thicker soft
fuzzy stuff. I don't like patterns that make you use a hard to find, obsure, or
expensive yarn. My personal favorite is Bernat's Frenzy, but I'm pretty sure it's
discontinued and I can't find it anywhere anymore, so for me to write the pattern
to be used with Frezy would be kinda mean and pointless. Plus I'm cheap, so if you
want to make it with mohair or something go right ahead, I'll buy .87 cent skeins
of fun fur instead. I won't use patterns that make me special order yarn, so why
should I make you?[/i]
So, gauge is going to be very important, as is the type of yarn you use.
If you use an eyelash or fun fur type yarn where the yarn is mainly fibers on a
string (lightweight, not substantial), carry your WW yarn along with it.
However, if the fuzzy yarn you choose has bulk or is more substantial, such as
Bernat's Frenzy (personal favorite) or Hobby Lobby's Paradox; or has another yarn
built in, such as Bernat's Baby Lash, just use this yarn, don't carry your WW with it.
In the pattern I'm just going to say "Fuzzy Yarn" so for those who fall into the
fibers on a string category, this means both yarns. And to those that fall into the
substantial yarn category, just use the fuzzy yarn.
And if I've confused anyone too much with this, send me an email and I'll do my
best to help!
Gauge:
WW Yarn: 5 stitches across=1" 6 rows=1"
Fuzzy Yarn: 7 stitches across=2" 4 rows=1"
Right now there is only the bear pattern, but as I add on more animals you'll just
look below for which animal you'd like, find the pieces you need in the patterns
below, then make and connect them.
[size=3]Animals[/size]
For Bear:
1.5 oz. WW Yarn(I like Simply Soft)and an F hook (or hook needed to obtain gauge)
1.5 oz. Fuzzy Yarn and G hook (or hook needed to obtain gauge)
Small piece of white felt
Embroidery thread or paint (for face)
Two eyes (8mm safety eyes used in example)
Optional: Ribbon to tie around neck
Pattern Pieces:
Head and Body
Arms
Legs
Small Round Ears
Finished Face Piece (cut and embroidered felt)
For Kitten:
1.5 oz. WW Yarn(I like Simply Soft)and an F hook (or hook needed to obtain gauge)
1.5 oz. Fuzzy Yarn and G hook (or hook needed to obtain gauge)
Small piece of white felt
Embroidery thread or paint (for face)
Two eyes (8mm safety eyes used in example)
Optional: Ribbon to tie around neck
Pattern Pieces:
Head and Body
Arms
Legs
Small Pointy Ears
Long Skinny Tail
Finished Face Piece (cut and embroidered felt)
[size=3]Default Body Parts[/size]
Head And Body: Fuzzy Yarn and G hook(or hook needed to obtain gauge)
I suggest keeping the wrong side of the crochet out, for some reason it's always
the fuzzier side with fuzzy yarns, but whichever side you like best works too :)
2. Inc every stitch (16)
3. Inc every other (24)
4. Inc every 3rd (32)
5-11. Sc around (32)
*Now is a good time to put on the eyes and embelish the face, since the head hole
will be tiny after the next row*
14. Dec every stitch (8)
*Stuff the head
15. Inc every stitch (16)
16. Sc around (16)
17. Sc around (16)
18. Sc around (16)
19. Sc around (16)
21. Sc around (20)
22. Sc around (20)
23. Sc around (20)
25. Sc around (24)
29. Dec every stitch (8)
Stuff the body then sew the hole shut
Arms: make 2 with WW Yarn and F hook (or hook needed to obtain gauge)
3. Sc around (12)
4. Sc around (12)
*If you don't want the arms to have thumbs just substitute a regular sc for the
popcorn stitch on the next row*
5. Sc in first 5 sc, 3dc popcorn in next stitch, sc in last 6 sc (12)
6. Dec every 5th sc (10)
Stuff the arm, then sew closed (I usually sc across the top) leave a long tail for
sewing to the body
Legs: make 2 with WW Yarn and F hook (or hook needed to obtain gauge)
Do not turn, work in rounds!
Ch 6
1. 2 sc in second ch from hook, sc in next 3 chs, 3 sc in last ch. Instead of turning,
continue up the back side of the chain (to form an oval for the sole of the foot), sc
in next 3 chs, sc in first ch (with the 2 sc from the beginning of this round) (12 sc)
2. Inc the first 2 sc, sc in the next 3 sc, inc the next 3 sc, sc the next 3 sc, inc the
last sc (18 sc)
3. Working in back loop only, sc around (18 sc)
4. Sc in first 8 sc, Dc dec, Dc dec(these two decreases form the toe) sc in last 6 sc
(16 sc)
5. Sc in first 7 sc, sc dec, sc dec, sc in last 5 sc (14 sc)
6. Sc in first 6 sc, sc dec, sc dec, sc in last 4 sc (12 sc)
Stuff the leg/foot, then sew closed (I usually sc across the top) leave a long tail for
sewing to the body
[size=3]Ears[/size]
Small Round Ears: make 2 with WW Yarn and F hook (or hook needed to obtain
gauge)
The ch 1 at the end of each row should not be counted as a stitch
1. 6 sc in Adjustable Ring, ch 1, turn

2. Inc every other sc, ch 1, turn (9)
3. Sc in every sc (9)
Tie off and leave a long tail to attach ears to head*
Small Pointy Ears: make 2 with WW Yarn and F hook (or hook needed to obtain
gauge)
2. Inc every other sc(6)
3. Inc every other sc(9)
4. Sc around (9)
5. Inc every 3rd sc(12)
6. Sc around(12)
[size=3]Faces[/size]
Face template for Bear, Bunny, Kitty, and Puppy

Use this template to cut out a felt circle and embroider nose and mouth:
[size=3]Tails[/size]
Long Skinny Tail: make with WW Yarn and F hook (or hook needed to obtain
gauge)
2. Sc around until desired length
A note on all my patterns: I offer my patterns free, and I'd like them to stay free,
therefore feel free to print them out and pass them out to as many people as you'd
like, I simply ask that you put my web address somewhere on the pattern, so
people know where it came from. Never ever sell my patterns or present them as
your own. You can give away items made from my patterns, but if you want to sell
them online you need to state that the pattern is free and available here. This
means that every single listing for any item made with my pattern must state that
the pattern you used is free and you must also post a link to it. I'm not trying to be
mean, I just want the most people possible to have access to free patterns. Please
don't violate these rules and ruin things for everyone else. Thanks!
Back to
Penguin
Patterns
Items Needed:
Around 3 oz of WW yarn in black, small amouts of white and orange/yellow (your
preference)
F or G Hook (if using a lighter WW use an F hook, with heavier WW you can use a G
hook
Felt, embroidery thread, or doll eyes for the face.
Size:From 5-6" tall depending on weight of yarn, size of hook, and position of
feet.
Note: It's a good idea to leave a large tail of yarn when fastening off the different
pieces. Then you just sew the pieces onto the body using the tail!
Body and Head: In black

2. Inc every sc around (16)
4. Sc around (24)
7-13. SC around (40)
16. Sc around (30)
Note: Now is a good time to attach the eyes if using safety eyes.
19-20. Sc around (42)

22. Sc around (45)
24. Sc around (48)
26-28. Sc around (54)
30. Sc around (48)
32. Sc around (42)
Note: You should stuff the body now as it will be closed up over the next few
rounds.
37. Dec every other sc (9)
Sew hole shut and fasten off
Beak: One in orange/yellow

4-5. Sc around (9)
Fasten off, sew to face
Belly Circle: One in white

Slip to next sc to even out circle, fasten off, sew to belly
Wings: Make 2 In black

3. Sc around (9)
5. Sc around (12)
7. Sc around (15)
9. Sc around (18)
11. Sc around (15)
13. Sc around (12)
Fasten off, sew to body
The feet are done a little differently. The toes are crocheted seperately (3 for each
foot) then you crochet around all three toes to connect them and form the body of
the foot. This is sort of confusing, so I've included pictures below.
If you're a beginning crocheter or just can't understand how the foot/toes work
but really want to make this pattern you can alternately make two more wings in
orange/yellow and finish off after the 10th row, sewing the top shut. These feet
will look like the ones in the photo, just without the toe "bumps" on top
Toes: Make 6 in orange/yellow

2. Sc around (6)
3. Sc next 3 sts (6)
Fasten off
Foot: Make 2 in orange/yellow

Each foot uses 3 toes
1.Attach yarn to one toe:
Crochet the next 3 sts:
Take second toe and insert hook into a stitch:
Sc this stitch:
Sc the next 2 sts. Take 3rd toe, insert hook in same manner, sc this stitch and next
5 stitches. Insert hook into second toe in the same manner, sc this stitch and last
2 stitches remaining on toe. Insert hook into first toe, sc this stitch and remaining
2 stitches. Now all the toes should be connected into a round. (18)
2. Sc next 2 sts, dec, sc next st, dec, sc next 4 sts, dec, sc next st, dec, sc last 2
sts (14)
3-5. Sc around (14)
6. Dec every other st (9)
7. Sc around (9)
8. Dec every 5th st (5)
Finish off and sew hole shut, Feet can be sewn underneath body to appear
standing, or on front of body to appear sitting.
Amigurumi Squid
Apr 5, 2008 posted by photigrapes
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Filed under: General, 4 - Medium, Toys & Games, Blend
Author
Katherine Gleason
Introduction
Cephalopods are my favorite kind of animal; they're the most intelligent invertebrates, and their
eyes are comparable to human eyes. Plus, their blood is blue-green! For the more zoologically
inclined, they're actually members of the mollusk phylum, with clams and snails. I thought a
cuttlefish might be a bit ambitious, but a squid seemed relatively easy, and I couldn't find any
patterns of them online. To that end, I made my own! His name's Calvin, and he's the sweetest
squid a girl could ask for!
The pattern includes some texture on the arms, but I'm not sure how it would look in solid-
colored yarn - the multicolored yarn makes it a little hard to see.
Materials List
 Size F/3.75 mm hook
 Worsted weight yarn (any color!)
 2 buttons, plus needle & thread (or yarn, depending on size of buttons)
 Polyfil stuffing
 yarn needle
Finished Size
About 14" (36 cm) from head to tip of tentacles, about 3 1/2" (9 cm) across the fins, body is
about 2 1/2" (6 cm) in diameter, arms & tentacles are about 1/2" (1 cm) in diameter; Size may
vary if different yarn/hook size used and number of repeated rounds per part
Gauge
stitches should be tight - other yarn weights/hook sizes could be easily substituted, as long as
stitches are tight enough to prevent stuffing from showing/falling out!
Notes
All rounds worked without joining unless otherwise noted - use a stitch marker to keep track of
rounds
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
blo = back loop only
fpsc = "front post" single crochet - insert hook from front around post of sc below, yo, pull up a
loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook
sc dec = sc decrease - same as sc 2 tog - insert hook in next stitch, yo, pull up a loop, insert
hook in 2nd stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 3 loops on hook
dc = double crochet
st = stitch/stitches
Starting the fins

The fins are worked only every other row, because you basically do 2 rows of fin every other
round. If you're stuck on how to get them started: after you do the chain 2, you have to turn the
work around and sc in the second ch from your hook (the first ch stitch you made). Then you sc
again in the second sc from the starting round (there should be 2 sc in each of the first 2 sc of
the starting round - 4 sc in this round of the body). You repeat the same thing in the next sc - sc
once, do the ch 2 with sc, sc again (in the 3rd sc of the starting round) - and finish the round
with 2 sc (which should be in the 4th and last sc of the starting round). At the end of the round,
you should basically have a small, cone shaped bit (which will become the body) with two small
things sticking out from the sides (which will become the fins - and they aren't really evenly
spaced on either side of the body, they sit a little bit towards the front). For the next round
("Round 2") you don't have to worry about the fins, just crochet around the body with the
increases.
The Pattern
Body
ch 2, sc 4 into second chain from hook - DO NOT JOIN!
Round 1: sc 2 in next sc, *sc in next sc, ch 2, sc in second ch, sc in same sc (next to "sc in next
sc"), repeat from * once, sc 2 in next sc (8 st around, plus 1 sc off sides - these will become the
fins) **See the "Notes" section for extra help with starting the fins**
Round 2: (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) 2 times, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) 2 times (12 st
around)
Round 3: sc in next 4 sc, *sc in sc & ch of fin, ch 1, turn, sc in 2 sc of fin*, sc in next 5 sc, repeat
from * to *, sc in final 3 sc (12 st around + 2 st in each fin)
Round 4: sc in next 4 sc, (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) 2 times, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc
(15 st around)
Round 5: sc in next 5 sc, *2 sc in fin, ch 1, turn, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc of fin*, sc in next 7
sc, repeat from * to *, sc in last 3 sc (15 st around + 3 in each fin)
Round 6: (sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc) 3 times (18 st around)
Round 7: sc in next 6 sc, *3 sc in fin, ch 1, turn, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc of fin*, sc in next
8 sc, repeat from * to *, sc in last 4 sc (18 st around + 4 in each fin)
Round 8: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in
next sc (21 st around)
Round 9: sc in next 7 sc, *sc in 4 of fin, ch 1, turn, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc of fin*, sc in
next 9 sc, repeat from * to *, sc in next 5 sc (21 st around + 5 in each fin)
Round 10: (sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc) 3 times (24 st around)
Round 11: sc in next 8 sc, *sc in 4 of fin, sl st in last sc, ch 1, turn, sc in 3 of fin*, sc in next 10
sc, repeat from * to *, sc in next 6 sc (24 st around + dec to 3 in each fin)
Rounds 12-26: sc in each sc; after last round, sl st in next sc, fasten off (24 st around; 15 rows
or desired length)
Sew on button eyes (it's easier at this point!)
Arms (make 8)
ch 2, 3 sc in second ch from hook
Round 1: 2 sc in each sc around (6 st)
Round 2: sc in each sc around (6 st)
Round 3: sc in next 2 sc, sc in blo, sc in next 3 sc (6 st)
Rounds 4-23: repeat row 3 for 20 rounds or desired length; after last round, sl st in next sc,
fasten off
Tentacles (make 2)
ch 2, 2 sc in second ch from hook
Row 1: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first sc, sc in second sc (3 st)
Row 2: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc (5 st)
Row 3: ch 1, turn, *2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, repeat from * across (8 st)
Row 4: ch 1, turn, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10 st)
Row 5: ch 1, turn, sc across (10 st)
Row 6: ch 1, turn, sc dec, sc in next 6 sc, sc dec (8 st)
Row 7: ch 1, turn, sc in next sc, fpdc in next sc, dc in next sc, ch 1 , sl st in next 2 sc, ch 1, dc in
next sc, fpdc in next sc, sc in next sc (8 st + 2 ch)
Row 8: turn, sl st across to sl st from previous row, sc in 2 sl st of row 7 (2 st + 4 sl st)
Row 9: ch 1, turn, sc in 2 sc, turn, fpsc aound 2 sc of row 8 (4 st; use stitch marker to begin
marking rows)
Round 10: 2 sc in first sc of row 9, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc (6 st)
Rounds 11-40: sc in each sc around for 30 rows or to desired length (6 st)
Round 41: sc around, sl st, fasten off
Bottom
ch 2, 6 sc in second ch from hook, sl st in first sc
Round 1: ch 1, *sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around, sl st in ch 1 (9 st)
Round 2: ch 1, *sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around, sl st in ch 1 (12 st)
Round 6: ch 1, *sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around, sl st in ch 1, fasten off (24
st)
Finishing
 stuff tentacles & sew to center of bottom
 stuff arms & sew around circumference of bottom
 stuff body & begin sewing on bottom
 when body & bottom are nearly sewn together, finish stuffing and sew up seam
between body & bottom
 weave in ends
 think of a cute name!
 RANAS DE PLAYA AMIGURUMI



 Patrón de Rana
Se puede utilizar el gancho del No. Cuerpo
0 ,3 ½, 4 dependiendo el tamaño En verde Olivo
que le quieras dar. Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)
Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp)
Cabeza Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum* repetir (18mp)
En color verde Olivo Hilera 4.-*2mp,1aum* repetir
(24mp)
Hilera1.-Aro deslizado (6mp) Hilera 5.-*3mp,1aum* repetir
Hilera2.-6 aumentos (12mp) (30mp)
Hilera3.-*1mp,1aum* repetir (18mp) Hilera 6.-*4mp,1aum* repetir
Hilera4.-*2mp,1aum* repetir (24mp) (36mp)
Hilera5.-*3mp,1aum* repetir (30mp) Hilera 7.-*5mp,1aum* repetir
Hilera6.-*4mp,1aum* repetir (36mp) (42mp)
Hilera7.-*5mp,1aum* repetir(42mp) Hilera 8.-*6mp,1aum* repetir
Hilera8.-*6mp,1aum* repetir(48mp) (48mp)
Hilera9.-*7mp,1aum* repetir(54mp) Hilera 9.-*7mp,1aum* repetir
Hilera10.-*8mp,1aum*repetir(60mp) (54mp)
Hilera11 a la 16.-Se tejen los (60mp) Hilera 10 y 12.-Se tejen los (54mp)
Hilera17.-*8mp,1dism*repetir(54mp) En rojo
Hilera18.-*7mp,1dism*repetir(48mp) Hilera 13 y 14.-Se tejen los (54mp)
Hilera19.-*6mp,1dism*repetir(42mp) En Blanco
Hilera20.-*5mp,1dism*repetir(36mp) Hilera 15.-*6mp,1dism*repetir
Hilera21.-*4mp,1dism*repetir(30mp) (48mp)
Hilera22.-*3mp,1dism*repetir(24mp) Hilera 16.-Se tejen los (48mp)
Hilera23.-*2mp,1dism*repetir(18mp) En Rojo
Hilera24.-*1mp,1dism*repetir(12mp) Hilera 17.-*5mp,1dism*repetir
RELLENAR (42mp)
Hilera25.-6 disminuciones (6mp) Hilera 18.-Se tejen los (48mp)
En Blanco
Hilera 19.-*4mp,1dism*repetir
(36mp)
PATAS (X4) Hilera 20.-Se tejen los (36mp)
En verde Olivo En naranja
Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (8mp) Hilera 21.-*3mp,1dism*repetir
Hilera 2.-8 aumentos (16mp) (30mp)
Hilera 3 a la 12.-Se tejen los (16mp) Hilera 22.Se tejen los (30mp)
Rellenar solamente hasta aquí En Blanco
Hilera 13.-*1mp,1aum*repetir (24mp) Hilera 23 y 24.-Se tejen los (30mp)
Hilera 14.-*2mp,1aum*repetir (32mp) Rellenar y unir a la cabeza.
Hilera 15 a la 17.-Se tejen los (32mp)
Esta parte no se rellena vamos a
juntar la pieza y se hacen
Ojos (x2)
(1mp,3pa,1pe)repetir (x2)
En Blanco
Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)
Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum* repetir (18mp)
Hilera 4.-*2mp,1aum* repetir
(24mp)
Hilera 5.-Se tejen los (24mp)
En verde Olivo
Hilera 6 y 8.-Se tejen los (24mp)
Hilera 9.-*2mp,1dism*repetir (18mp)
Hilera 10.-*1mp,1dism*repetir
(12mp)
Rellenar
Hilera 11.-6 disminuciones
Cerrar y coser al a la cabeza
Haz 2 aros deslizados de
Hilera1.-Aro deslizado de (6mp)
Hilera2.-6 aumentos (12mp)
Coserlo en el centro del ojo y hazle
con estambre blanco una crucecita
en medio.

 Patrón de Rana Chica

Se utiliza el gancho del No.3 ½, Cuerpo
Cabeza En verde Olivo
En color verde Olivo Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)
Hilera1.-Aro deslizado (6mp) Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp)
Hilera2.-6 aumentos (12mp) Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum* repetir (18mp)
Hilera3.-*1mp,1aum* repetir (18mp) Hilera 4.-*2mp,1aum* repetir (24mp)
Hilera6.-*4mp,1aum* repetir (36mp) Hilera 7 y 8.- Se tejen los (36mp)
Hilera7.-*5mp,1aum* repetir(42mp) Cambio de color para hacer la
Hilera8 a la 12.-Se tejen los (42mp) playera En Rojo
Hilera 13.-*5mp,1dism*repetir (Aquí la playera se le hizo lisa)
(36mp) Hilera 9 a la 12.-Se tejen los (36mp)
Hilera 14.-*4mp,1dism*repetir Hilera 13.-*4mp,1dism*repetir
(30mp) (30mp)
Hilera 15.-*3mp,1dism*repetir Hilera 14.-Se tejen los (30mp)
(24mp) Hilera 15.-*3mp,1dism*repetir
(18mp) Hilera 16.-*2mp,1dism*repetir
(12mp) Ojos (x2)
RELLENAR En Blanco
Hilera 18.-6 disminuciones (6mp) Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)
Hilera 2.-6aumentos (12mp)
PATAS (X4) Hilera 3.-*3mp,1aum*repetir (15mp)
En verde Olivo Hilera 4.-Se tejen los (15mp)
Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (8mp) En Verde
Hilera 2 ala 7.-Se tejen los (8mp) Hilera 5.-Se tejen los (15mp)
Hilera 8.-*1mp,1aum* repetir (12mp) Hilera 6.-*3mp,1dism*repetir (12mp)
Hilera 9.-*2mp,1aum*repetir (16mp) Hilera 7.-6 disminuciones
Hilera 10 y 11 Se tejen los (16mp)
Juntar la pieza y hacer En negro haz un aro de 8mp y
(1mp, 1pa, 1pe) hasta formar las 3 ciérralo para coser a la cabeza, con
separaciones. estambre blanco se le hace una
crucecita en medio.
PERRITO YORKSHIRE AMIGURUMI
PATRON DE YORKSHIRE
Cabeza Cuerpo
Hilera 1- Aro deslizado (6mp) Hilera 1- Aro deslizado (6mp)
Hilera 2- 6 aumentos (12mp) Hilera 2- 6 aumentos (12mp)
Hilera 3- (1mp , 1aum) repetir en todo(18mp) Hilera 3- (1mp, aum) repetir en todo(18mp)
Hilera 4- (2mp ,1aum) repetir en todo(24mp) Hilera 4- (2mp, aum) repetir en todo(24mp)
Hilera 7- (5mp ,1aum) repetir en todo(42mp) Hilera 7- Se tejen 36 mp
Hilera 8- Se tejen los 42mp Hilera 8- (5mp, aum) repetir en todo(42mp)
Hilera 9- (6mp , aum) repetir en todo (48mp) Hilera 9- (6mp, aum) repetir en todo(48mp)
Hilera 10 y 11-Se tejen los (48mp) Hilera 10 y 11.-Se tejen (48mp)
Hilera 12- (6mp,dism) repetir en todo (42mp) Hilera 12- (6mp,1dism) repetir en todo (42mp)
Hilera 13- Se tejen los (42mp) Hilera 13- Se tejen los 42mp
Hilera 14- (5mp,dism) repetir en todo (36mp) Hilera 14- (5mp,1dism)repetir en todo (36mp)
Hilera 15- (4mp,dism) repetir en todo (30mp) Hilera 15- Se tejen los 36 mp
Hilera 16- (3mp,dism) repetir en todo (24mp) Hilera 16- (4mp ,1dism) repetir en todo (30mp)
Hilera 17 y 18- Se tejen los (24 mp) Hilera 17- Se tejen los (30mp)
Hilera 19- (2mp,dism) repetir en todo (18mp) Hilera 18- (3mp , 1dism) repetir en todo(24mp)
Hilera 20- (1mp,dism) repetir en todo (12mp) Hilera 19 a la 26- Se tejen los 24mp
Hilera 21- 6 disminuciones
Patas delanteras (2 piezas) Patas traseras (2 piezas)
Hilera 1- Aro deslizado (6mp) Hilera 1- Aro deslizado (8mp)
Hilera 2- 6 aumentos (12) Hilera 2- 8 aumentos (16mp)
Hilera 3- (1mp ,1 aum) repetir en todo (18mp) Hilera 3- (1mp , 1aum) repetir en todo(24mp)
Hilera 4 y 5- Se tejen los 18mp Hilera 4 y 5-Se tejen 24 mp
Hilera 6- (1mp , 1dism) repetir en todo(12mp) Hilera 6- (1mp,1dism) repetir en todo (16mp)
Hilera 7- (4mp ,1dism) repetir 2 veces (10mp) Hilera 7- (3mp,1dism) repetir (x3), 1mp (13mp)
Hilera 8 a la 22.-Se tejen los (10mp) Hilera 8 a la 12- Se tejen (13mp)
Orejas (2 piezas) Cola
Hilera 1- Aro deslizado (4mp) Hilera 1-Aro deslizado (5mp)
Hilera 2- Se tejen los (4mp) Hilera 2- Se tejen los 5mp
Hilera 3- 4 aumentos (8mp) Hilera 3- (1mp , aum) repetir (x2) , 1mp (7mp)
Hilera 4- Se tejen (8mp) Hilera 4 a la 7-Se tejen (7mp)
Hilera 5- (1mp , aum) repetir en todo (12mp) Hilera 8- (1mp,1aum) repetir (x3) , 1mp (10mp)
Hilera 6- Se tejen los 12mp Hilera 9 a la 10- Se tejen (10mp)
Hilera 7- (2mp , aum) repetir en todo (16mp)
Hilera 8 y 10-Se tejen los (16mp)
Morro
Hilera 1- Aro deslizado (6)
Hilera 2- 6 aumentos (12mp)
Hilera 3- Se tejen los (12mp)
Hilera 4- (1mp , aum) repetir en todo (18mp)
Hilera 5 a la 7- Se tejen los (18mp)
Hilera 8- 4mp,1 aum, (3mp , aum)repetir (X2)
, 4mp , 1aum (22mp)
La nariz se le borda y se le empieza a poner el pelo con tiras de estambre para darle forma.
Publicado por Paola en 3/19/2013 10:05:00 p.m.
TORTUGA AMIGURUMI (3)
Tortuguita Grande Cabeza

Caparazón de arriba En Verde Olivo
Se utiliza gancho del No. 4 para que Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)
quede grandecita Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp)
En Verde Olivo Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum* repetir (18mp)
Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp) Hilera 4.-*2mp,1aum* repetir (24mp)
Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp) Hilera 5.-*3mp,1aum* repetir (30mp)
Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum* repetir (18mp) Hilera 6.-*4mp,1aum* repetir(36mp)
Hilera 4.-*2mp,1aum* repetir (24mp) Hilera 7.-*5mp,1aum* repetir (42mp)
Hilera 6.-*4mp,1aum* repetir(36mp) Hilera 9.-*7mp,1aum* repetir(54mp)
Hilera 7.-*5mp,1aum* repetir (42mp) Hilera10.-*8mp,1aum*repetir (60mp)
Hilera 8.-*6mp,1aum* repetir (48mp) Hilera 11 a la 20.-Se tejen (60mp)
Hilera 9.-*7mp,1aum* repetir(54mp) Hilera 21.-*8mp,1dism*repetir (54mp)
Hilera10.-*8mp,1aum*repetir (60mp) Hilera 22.-*7mp,1 dism*repetir(48mp)
Hilera 11 y 12.-Se tejen (60mp) Hilera 23.-*6mp,1 dism*repetir(42mp)
Hilera 13.-*9mp,1aum* repetir (66mp) Hilera 24.-*5mp,1 dism*repetir (36mp)
Hilera 14.-Se tejen los (66mp) Hilera 25 a la 45.-Se tejen los (36mp)
Hilera 15.-*10mp,1aum*repetir (72mp) Patas Delanteras
Hilera 16.-*11mp,1aum*repetir (78mp) En verde olivo
Hilera 17.- Se tejen los (78mp) Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)
Hilera 18.-*12mp,1aum*repetir (84mp) Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp)
Hilera 19.-*13mp,1aum*repetir (90mp) Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum* repetir (18mp)
Hilera 20 y 21.- Se tejen los (90mp) Hilera 4.-*2mp,1aum* repetir (24mp)
Hilera 23.-Se tejen los (96mp) Hilera 6.-*4mp,1aum* repetir(36mp)
Hilera 25 y 26.-Se tejen los (102mp). Hilera 8.-Agarrando la parte de atrás se
Caparazón de abajo tejen los (42mp).
En Amarillo Hilera 9 a la 13.-Se teje los (42mp)
Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp) Hilera 14.-*5mp,1 dism* (36mp)
Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp) Hilera 15 y 16.-Se tejen los (36mp)
Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum* repetir (18mp) Hilera 17.-*4mp, 1 dism*(30mp)
Hilera 4.-*2mp,1aum* repetir (24mp) Hilera 18 y 19.-Se tejen los (30mp)
Hilera 5.-*3mp,1aum* repetir (30mp) Patas Traseras
Hilera 6.-Se tejen los (30mp) Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)
Hilera 7.-*4mp,1aum* repetir (36mp) Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp)
Hilera 8.-SE tejen los (36mp) Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum* repetir (18mp)
Hilera 9.-*5mp,1aum* repetir(42mp) Hilera 4.-*2mp,1aum* repetir (24mp)
Hilera10.-*6mp,1aum*repetir (48mp) Hilera 5.-*3mp,1aum* repetir (30mp)
Hilera 11.-*7mp,1aum* repetir (54mp) Hilera 6.-*4mp,1aum* repetir(36mp)
Hilera 13.-*9mp,1aum*repetir (66mp) Hilera 8.-Agarrando la parte de atrás se
Hilera 14.-*10mp,1aum*repetir (72mp) tejen los (42mp).
Hilera 15.-*11mp,1aum*repetir (78mp) Hilera 9 a la 13.-Se teje los (42mp)
Hilera 16.-*12mp,1aum*repetir (84mp) Hilera 14.-*5mp,1 dism* (36mp)
Hilera 17.-*13mp,1aum*repetir (90mp) Hilera 15 y 16.-Se tejen los (36mp)
Hilera 18.-*14mp,1aum*repetir (96mp) Hilera 17.-*4mp, 1 dism*(30mp)
Hilera 19.-*15mp,1aum*repetir (102mp) Colita
PASO 1 Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)
UNE LAS 2 PIEZAS AGARRANDO LA Hilera 2.-Se tejen los (6mp)
CADENA DE ATRÁS DEL CAPARAZON DE Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum*repetir (9mp)
ABAJO Y LA PARTE DE ARRIBA DEL Hilera 4.-*2mp,1aum*repetir (12mp)
CAPARAZON QUE SE HIZO CON VERDE Hilera 5 a la 7.-Se tejen los (12mp)
DEJANDO 12MP SIN UNIR PARA QUE
QUEDE UN HUECO Y PUEDAS METER LA
CABEZA DE LA TORTUGA.
PASO 2
SIN CORTAR LA HEBRA DEL AMARILLO SE
TRABAJA EN FILAS Y SE HACEN 10 FILAS
DE 12MP.
PASO 3
UNE LA CABEZA EN EL HUECO QUE
QUEDO Y HAZLE UN BORDE EN EL
CAPARAZON DANDO VARIAS VUELTAS
HATA EL TAMAÑO QUE TU DESEES.
Tortuga Mediana Caparazón de abajo
Caparazón de arriba
En Verde Limón, Amarillo (puedes utilizar el color
Se utiliza gancho del No. 3 1/2 que tú quieras
En Verde Olivo Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)

Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp) Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp)
Hilera 5.- Se tejen los (24mp) Hilera 6.-*4mp,1aum*repetir (36mp)
Hilera 6.-*3mp,1aum* repetir (30mp) Hilera 7.-*5mp,1aum*repetir (42mp)
Hilera 7.-*4mp,1aum* repetir(36mp) Hilera 8.-*6mp,1aum*repetir (48mp)
Hilera 9.-Se tejen los (42mp)
Hilera 10.-*6mp,1aum* repetir (48mp) Se une el caparazón de arriba y abajo
Hilera 11.*7mp,1aum* repetir (54mp) haciendo 46mp.
Hilera 12.-Se tejen los (54mp) Del caparazón de arriba se va agarrar el
bucle de atrás y el caparazón de abajo el
Patas Delanteras (x2) bucle de adelante.
En verde Olivo En el caparazón de abajo se trabaja en
Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp) Filas
Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp) Fila 1.-Tejer 8mp
Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum* repetir (18mp) Fila 2 a la 6.-Se tejen los (8mp)
Hilera 4.-Agarrando la parte de atrás se
tejen los (18mp) Cabeza
Hilera 5 y 6.-Se tejen los (18mp) En verde olivo
Hilera 7.-*1mp,1dism* repetir (12mp) Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)
Hilera 8.-*2mp,1dism* repetir (9mp) Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp)
Hilera 9 y 10.-Se tejen los (9mp) Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum* repetir (18mp)
Con estambre negro bordarle lineas Hilera 5.-*3mp,1aum* repetir (30mp)
separadas para que le de forma de sus Hilera 6.-*4mp,1aum* repetir(36mp)
dedos Hilera 7 a la 25.-Se tejen los (36mp)
Hilera 13.-*4mp,1dism* repetir (30mp)
Patas Traseras (x2) Hilera 14.-*3mp,1dism* repetir (24mp)
En verde Olivo Hilera 15.-*2mp,1dism* repetir (18mp)
Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp) Hilera 16 a la 25.-Se tejen los (18mp)
Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp) La cabeza se coloca en el hueco que se
Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum* repetir (18mp) dejó y se cose al caparazó y se hace 1mp
Hilera 4.-Agarrando la parte de atrás se en todo alrededor del caparazon para que
tejen los (18mp) se forme el borde.
Hilera 7.-*1mp,1dism* repetir (12mp) Colita
Hilera 8.-*2mp,1dism* repetir (9mp) En verde Olivo
TORTUGA CHICA
Caparazón de arriba Caparazón de abajo
Se utiliza gancho del No. 3 1/2
En Verde Limón, Amarillo (puedes utilizar el color
En Verde Olivo que tú quieras
Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp) Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)
Hilera 5.-* 3mp,1aum* repetir (30mp) Hilera 4.-*2mp,1aum* repetir (24mp)
Hilera 6.-*4mp, 1aum* repetir (36mp) Hilera 5.-*3mp,1aum* repetir (30mp)
Hilera 7.-*5mp, 1aum* repetir (42mp) Hilera 6.-*4mp,1aum*repetir (36mp)
Hilera 8 a la 12. Se tejen los (42mp) Hilera 7.-*5mp,1aum*repetir (42mp)
Se une el caparazón de arriba y abajo
Patas Delanteras (x2) haciendo 36mp
En Verde Olivo Del caparazón de arriba se va agarrar el
Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (8mp) bucle de atrás y el caparazón de abajo el
Hilera 2.-*1mp,1aum*repetir (12mp) bucle de adelante.
Hilera 3.-Agarrando la parte de atrás se En el caparazón de abajo se trabaja en
tejen los (12mp) Filas
Hilera 4.-Se tejen los (12mp) Fila 1.-Tejer 6mp
Hilera 5.-*3mp,4dism* repetir (8mp) Fila 2 a la 4.-Se tejen los (6mp)
Hilera 6-Se tejen los (8mp) Cabeza
En verde olivo
Patas Traseras (x2) Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp)
En verde Olivo Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum* repetir (18mp)
Hilera 2.-*1mp,1aum*repetir (12mp) Hilera 5 a la 9.-Se tejen los (24mp)
Hilera 3.-Agarrando la parte de atrás se Hilera 10.-*2mp.1dism* repetir (18mp)
tejen los (12mp) Hilera 11.-*3mp,1dism* repetir (12mp)
Hilera 4.-Se tejen los (12mp) Hilera 12 a la 20.-Se tejen los (12)
Hilera 5.-*3mp,4dism* repetir (8mp) La cabeza se coloca en el hueco que se
Se hace 1mp en todo alrededor del dejó y se cose al caparazón.
caparazón para que sea el borde.
Colita
En verde Olivo
Personajes de Plaza Sésamo (Amigurumi)

Comegalletas
BOCA CABEZA
En negro En azul
Hilera 1: Aro deslizad (6 mp) Hilera 1: Aro deslizado de 6 cadenetas (6 mp)
Hilera 2: 1aum en todos los mp (12 mp) Hilera 2: 1aum en todos los mp (12 mp)
Hilera 3: 1 mp, 1aum. Repetir (18 mp) Hilera 3: 1 mp, 1aum. Repetir (18 mp)
Cerrar con un mp deslizado Hilera 9: 7 mp, 1aum. Repetir (54 mp)
Hileras 10 a 14: Se tejen los (54 mp)
OJOS Coser la mitad de la boca a continuación uniendo
En blanco sólo la mitad dentro de las cadenetas. Doblar la
Hilera 1: Aro deslizado de 6 cadenas (6 mp) boca por la mitad hasta que quede cerrada.
Hilera 2: 1aum en todos los mp (12 mp) Hilera 15: Empezar a coser la mitad que falta de la
Hilera 3: 1 mp, 1aum. Repetir (18 mp) boca haciendo un mp en cada mp de la boca
Hilera 4: 2 mp, 1aum. Repetir (24 mp) cogiendo sólo la mitad de atrás de las cadenetas.
Hileras 5 y 6: Se tejen los (24 mp) Seguir haciendo un
Hilera 7: 2 mp, 1 dism. Repetir (18 mp) mp en todos los mp, cogiendo la cadeneta entera,
Hilera 8: 1 mp, 1 dism. Repetir (12 mp) del resto de la cabeza. (54 mp)
Rellenar con algodón sintético Hileras 16 y 17: Se tejen los (54 mp)
Hilera 9: 6 dism (6 mp) Hilera 18: 7 mp, 1 dism. Repetir (48 mp)
Cerrar el tejido y dejar un trozo largo de hilo para Hilera 19: 6 mp, 1 dism. Repetir (42 mp)
poder coser los ojos a la cabeza Hilera 20: 5 mp, 1 dism. Repetir (36 mp)
En negro Hilera 21: 4 mp, 1 dism. Repetir (30 mp)
Hilera 1: Aro deslizado de 5 cadenas (5 mp) Hilera 22: 3 mp, 1 dism. Repetir (24 mp)
Hilera 2: 1aum en todos los mp (10 mp) Hilera 23: 2 mp, 1 dism. Repetir (18 mp)
Cerrar con un mp deslizado y dejar un trozo largo Rellenar la cabeza con algodón sintético
de hilo para poder coser a los ojos. Coser la parte Hilera 24: 1 mp, 1 dism. Repetir (12 mp)
negra en la parte blanca de los ojos Hilera 25: 6 dism (6 mp)
Cerrar el tejido
CUERPO
PATAS
En azul
Hilera 1: Aro deslizado de 6 cadenetas (6 mp) En azul
Hilera 2: 1aum en todos los mp (12 mp) La primera parte de la planta del pie no se teje en
Hilera 3: 1 mp, 1aum. Repetir (18 mp) espiral, es decir, al final de cada Hilera, vamos a
Hilera 4: 2 mp, 1aum. Repetir (24 mp) unir el último mp con el primero con un mp
Hilera 5: 3 mp, 1aum. Repetir (30 mp) deslizado.
Hilera 6: 4 mp, 1aum. Repetir (36 mp) Hacer 6 cadenetas. Seguir las siguientes
Hilera 7: 5 mp, 1aum. Repetir (42 mp) secuencias volteando las 6 cadenetas.
Hilera 8: 6 mp, 1aum. Repetir (48 mp) Hilera 1: Hacer otra cadeneta y unir con la sexta, y
Hilera 9: 7 mp, 1aum. Repetir (54 mp) nos quedará el primer mp. Hacer 5 mp más, un
Hilera 10: 8 mp, 1aum. Repetir (60 mp) aum triple (en la última cadeneta) y otro mp
Hilera 11: 9 mp, 1aum. Repetir (66 mp) (quedarán 5 mp en la última cadeneta), hacer 5
Hileras 12 a 20: Se tejen los (66 mp) mp más hasta llegar a la cadeneta de inicio, hacer
Hilera 21: 9 mp, 1 dism. Repetir (60 mp) otro aum triple y unir con un mp deslizado al
Hileras 22 a 25: Se tejen los (60 mp) primer mp.
Hilera 26: 8 mp, 1 dism. Repetir (54 mp) Hilera 2: Comenzar con una cadeneta y hacer 6
Hileras 27 a 29: Se tejen los (54 mp) mp, 3 aum, 6 mp y 3 aum, unir con un mp
Hilera 30: 7 mp, 1 dism. Repetir (48 mp) deslizado.
Hileras 31 a 33: Se tejen los (48 mp) Hilera 3:Comenzar con una cadeneta y hacer 6
Hilera 34: 6 mp, 1 dism. Repetir (42 mp) mp, 1aum, 1 mp, 2 aum, 1 mp, 1aum, 7
Hileras 35 y 36: Se tejen los (42 mp) mp, 1aum, 2 mp, 1aum, 2 mp y cerrar con un mp
Hilera 37: 5 mp, 1 dism. Repetir (36 mp) deslizado.
Hileras 38 y 39: Se tejen los (36 mp) Hilera 4:Comenzar con una cadeneta y hacer 7
Hilera 40: 4 mp, 1 dism. Repetir (30 mp) mp, 2 aum, 4 mp, 2 aum, 9 mp, 1aum, 2 mp,
Hileras 41 y 42: Se tejen los (30 mp) 1aum, 2 mp y cerrar el tejido con un mp deslizado.
Hilera 43: 3 mp, 1 dism. Repetir (24 mp) Hilera 5:Comenzar con una cadeneta y hacer 6 mp,
Cerrar con un mp deslizado y rellenar el cuerpo 1aum, 1 mp, 1aum, 6 mp, 1aum, 1 mp, 1aum, 11
con un mp deslizado mp, 1aum, 1 mp, 1aum, 4 mp y cerrar el tejido con
un mp deslizado. (42 mp)
BRAZOS Cortar el hilo.
La segunda parte de la pata se teje en espiral,
En azul
comenzando por la parte de atrás de la planta del
Hilera 1: Hacer 5 cadenetas
pie (la más estrecha).
Hilera 2: Hacer una cadeneta y hacer un mp en la
Hileras 6 a 9: 1 mp en todos los mp de la Hilera
cadeneta anterior, hacer 3 mp más, 3 mp en la
anterior (42 mp)
cadeneta de la esquina, 3 mp, y dos mp más en la
Hilera 10: 4 mp, 1 dism, 6 mp, repetir 6 veces la
cadeneta de la otra esquina.
siguiente secuencia: (1 dism, 1 mp), 1 dism, 6 mp,
Hilera 3: Hacer 5 mp, 1aum, 5 mp y 1aum (14 mp)
1 dism, 4 mp (35
Hilera 4: 1aum, 4 mp, 1aum, 1 mp, 1aum, 4 mp,
mp)
1aum, 1 mp(18 mp)
Hilera 11: 2 mp, 1 dism, 4 mp, 1 dism, repetir 5
Hilera 5: 1 mp, 1aum, 5 mp, 1aum, 2 mp, 1aum, 5
veces la siguiente secuencia: (1 mp, 1 dism), 4 mp,
mp, 1aum, 1 mp (22 mp)
1 dism, 4 mp (25 mp)
Hilera 12: 8 mp, 1 dism, 2 mp, 1 dism, 2 mp, 1
anterior (22 mp)
dism, 9 mp (22 mp)
Hilera 14: 2 dism, 7 mp, 2 dism, 7 mp (18 mp)
Hileras 12 a 40 : 1 mp en todos los mp de la Hilera
anterior (24 mp)
Cerrar el tejido con un mp deslizado y rellenar la
pata con algodón sintético
anterior (14 mp)
Cerrar el tejido con un mp deslizado y rellenar con GALLETA
algodón sintético
Hacer dos iguales e marrón claro y una en beige
Hilera 1: Aro deslizado de 6 cadenetas (6 mp)
Hilera 2: 1aum en todos los mp (12 mp)
Hilera 3: 1 mp, 1aum. Repetir (18 mp)
Cerrar con un mp deslizado
Coser las tres redondas con la parte beige en
medio
Coser la galleta a la mano del muñeco

BORREGUITO
Se puede utilizar el gancho del No. 0 ,3 ½, Cuerpo
4 dependiendo el tamaño que le quieras Se hace con punto (rulo o bucle)
dar. En color blanco, beige dependiendo el
color que quieras.
Cabeza
En color carne
Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp) Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp)
Hilera 7 y 8.-Se tejen los (36mp) Hilera 8.-*6mp,1aum* repetir (48mp)
Hilera 9.-*5mp,1aum* repetir (42mp) Hilera 9 a la 25.-Se tejen los (48mp)
Hilera 10 a la 19.- Se tejen los (42mp) Hilera 26.-(6mp,1dism) repetir (42mp)
Hilera 20.-*6mp,1aum* repetir (48mp) Hilera 27.-(5mp,1dism) repetir (36mp)
Hilera 21.-*7mp,1aum* repetir (54mp) Hilera 28.-(4mp,1dism) repetir (30mp)
Hilera 22.-Se tejen los (54mp) Hilera 29.-(3mp,1dism) repetir (24mp)
Hilera 23.-(7mp,1dism) repetir (48mp) Hilera 30.-(2mp,1dism) repetir (18mp)
Hilera 24.-(6mp,1dism) repetir (42mp) Hilera 31.-(1mp,1dism) repetir (12mp)
Hilera 25.-(5mp,1dism) repetir (36mp) Hilera 32.- *6 disminuciones*
Hilera 26.-(4mp,1dism) repetir (30mp)
Hilera 27.-(3mp,1dism) repetir (24mp) Flequillo
Hilera 29.-(1mp,1dism) repetir (12mp) Se hace con punto (rulo o bucle)
Hilera 30.- *6 disminuciones*
Cerrar Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp)
Orejas (x2) Hilera 3.-*1mp,1aum* repetir (18mp)
En color carne Hilera 4.-*2mp,1aum* repetir (24mp)
Hilera 2.-Se tejen los (6mp) Hilera 6.-*4mp,1aum* repetir (36mp)
Hilera 6 a la 12.-Se tejen los (15mp)
Nota: Aplastar la pieza y trabajar en el
borde de la oreja. Se unen las 2 puntas.
Los Ojos los puedes hacer de la manera

Patas (x4) que te guste más.
En color carne
Ojos (X2)
Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (6mp) Con negro
Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12mp) Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado de (6mp)
Hilera 4.-*2mp,1aum* repetir (24mp) En Blanco
Hilera 6.-Agarrando la parte de atrás
(30mp) Con estambre blanco hazle una línea
Hilera 7 a la 12 Se tejen los (30mp). blanca o puntito en medio de lo negro
Rellenar para que le dé otra expresión.
Centra bien las patas del borrego para que SE le pueden comprar botones de color
se pueda parar negro y coserlas.
Demonio de Tazmania Amigurumi
PATRON DE DEMONIO DE TAZMANIA

Cuerpo Cabeza
Color en café claro Color café claro
Hacer una cadena de 13 Hacer una cadena de 8
Hilera 1.-9mp, 5mp en el último punto de Hilera 1.-6mp, 5mp en la última cadena
cadena (dar vuelta), 10mp, 5mp en el ultimo (girar) 5mp, 4mp en el último mp, 1pe
punto de cadena, 1pe para acabar la vuelta (20)
(30). Hilera 2.-1pc, 1 aum,5mp, 5 aum, 5mp,
Hilera 2.-1pc, 10mp, 5aum,10mp,5aum(40) 4aum, 1 pe (30)
Hilera 3.-*1 aum, 19mp* repetir 2 veces (42) Hilera 3.-1pc, 9mp, 1aum, 4mp, 1aum,
Hilera 4.-*1 aum, 20mp* repetir 2 veces (44) 9mp, 1aum, 4mp, 1aum, 1pe (34)
Hilera 5.-*1 aum, 21mp* repetir 2 veces (46) Hilera 4.-1pc, 4mp, 1aum, 6mp, 1aum,
Hilera 6.-*1 aum, 22mp* repetir 2 veces (48) 2mp, 1aum, *6mp, 1aum* repetir 2
Hilera 7.-*1 aum, 23mp* repetir 2 veces (50) veces, 2mp, 1aum, 2mp, 1pe (40).
Hilera 8.-*1 aum, 24mp* repetir 2 veces (52) Hilera 5.-1pc, 1aum, 4mp, *1aum,
Hilera 9,10,11 y 12 se tejen los 52mp. 4mp*rep 7 veces (48)
Hilera 13.-*1 aum, 25mp* repetir 2 veces (54) Hilera 6,7,8 y 9 se tejen los 48mp
Hilera 14.-*1 aum, 26mp* repetir 2 veces (56) A partir de ahora se trabaja por filas:
Hilera 15.-*1 aum, 27mp, repetir 2 veces (58) Hilera 1.-18mp, dejar las últimas 30 sin
Hilera 16.-*1 aum, 28mp, repetir 2 veces (60) hacer (18)
Hilera 17.-*1 aum, 29mp, repetir 2 veces (62) Hilera 2.-1pc, 18mp (18)
Hilera 18.-*1 aum, 30mp, repetir 2 veces (64) Rellenar y coser al cuerpo
Hilera 19.-*1 aum, 31mp, repetir 2 veces (66) Panza
Hilera 20.-*1 aum, 32mp, repetir 2 veces (68) En color beige
Hilera 21.-*1 aum, 33mp, repetir 2 veces (70) Se trabaja por filas
Hilera 22.-*1 aum, 34mp, repetir 2 veces (72) Fila 1.-9mp (9)
Hilera 23.-*1 aum, 35mp, repetir 2 veces (74) Fila 2.-1pc, 1 aum, 7mp, 1 aum (11)
Hilera 24,25,26,27,28 y 29 se tejen los 74mp Fila 3.-1mp en cada mp (11)
Hilera 30.-14mp,1 dism *16mp, 1dism* repetir Fila 4.-1pc, 1 aum, 9mp, 1 aum (13)
3 veces, 4mp (70) Fila 5. a la 22 se repiten las filas 3 y
Hilera 31.-*12mp, 1 dism* repetir (65) 4(los 9mp de la fila 4 van aumentando
Hilera 32.-6mp, 1 dism, *11mp, 1 dism* de cada vez)(31)
repetir 4 veces, 5mp(60) Fila 23. a la 28.-1mp en cada mp (31)
Hilera 33.-*10mp, 1 dism* repetir (55) Seguimos ahora con la mejilla 1:
Hilera 34.-3mp, 1dism,*9mp, 1 dism* repetir 4 1.-1pc,1dism, 11mp,1dism( dejar los
veces, 6mp(50) últimos 16puntos sin hacer)(13)
hilera 35.-4mp, 1 dism,*6mp, 1 dism*repetir 5 2 a la 4.- 1pc, 1 dism, 1mp en el restro
veces, 4mp, 1 pe para acabar de los puntos y acabar por 1 dism (7 al
Rellenar y coser para cerrar. final)
Orejas (x2) Vamos a lo s puntos que hemos dejado
En color cafe claro sin hacer y repetimos estas últimas filas
1.-*3pc(cuenta por 1pa), 6pa* en anillo mágico para crear la mejilla 2.
(7) Realizar un borde haciendo 1mp en todo
2.- 3pc, 1pa en el mismo punto, los que siguen alrededor del trabajo.
5 aumentos de maciso (14) Morro
3.-1pc, 1mp en cada pa (14) En color beige
Interior de la oreja Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado de (6)
Color en rosa o carne Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12)
1.-*3pc (Cuenta por pa),6pa*en una anillo Hilera 3.-*1aum, 1mp*rep todo
magico (7) alrededor (18)
2.- 1pc, 7pa (14]) Hilera 4.-*1aum, 2mp*rep todo
Coser la parte interior con la exterior y luego a alrededor (24)
la cabeza. Hilera 5 y 6 se tejen los 24mp.
Cuernos (x2) Ahora por filas
En color cafe claro Fila 1.-1aum,*1mp,1aum, repetir 2
Hilera 1.- Aro deslizado (6) veces, 1pe
Hilera 2.-*1mp, 1aum, rep todo alrededor (9) Fila 2 y 3 repetir las filars 2 y 3
Hilera 3 y 4.- 1mp en capa mp (9) anteriores.
Hilera 5.-1 aum,*3mp, 1aum* rep 2 veces (12) Rellenar y cose entre las mejillas.
Hilera 6.-3mp, dejar los 8 otros puntos sin Dientes (Hacer 2)
hacer En color blanco
Hilera 7.-1pc,5mp,1pe Hilera 1.-Aro deslizado (5)
Coser a la cabeza Hilera 2 y 3.- 1mp en cada mp (5)
Piernas (x2) Coser bajo el morro.
En color café claro Nariz
Hacer una cadeneta de 13puntos y 1 deslizado En color negro
al final uniendo el principio para formar un Hacer una cadena de 4mp.
círculo. Hilera 1.-2mp, 3mp en la últma
1.-1pc, 13mp, 1pe (13) cdadena,(girar)1mp, ,1 aum (8)
Trabajar por filas Hilera 2.-1 aum, 1mp, 3 aum, 1mp, 2
2.-7mp,1pe (dejar los otros 5 puntos sin hacer) aum (14)
(8) Hilera 3.-1 aum, 3mp, 1aum, 2mp,
3.-1pc, 7mp,1pe (8). 1aum,3mp, 1aum, 2mp (18)
Trabajar en círculo hilera 4.-7mp, 1aum,9mp, 1 aum (20
1.-1pc,7mp, seguimos por lo puntos que Hilera 5.-1mp en cada mp (20)
dejamos sin hacer haciendo todo mp (13) Rellenar y coser al morro.
2.-1mpen cada mp (13) Labio inferior
Trabajar por filas En color beige
1.-1pc,girar,6mp,1pe (dejar los otros 5 puntos Hacer una cadena de 8puntos
sin hacer) (7) Hilera 1mp,5aum,1mp (12)
2.- 1pc, *1mp, 1aum* rep 3 veces 1pe (10) Hilera 2.-1pc, y tejer los 12mp
3: 1pc, 2mp, 1 aum, *1mp, 1aum* rep 2 Hilera 3.-1pc, 1pb, 5 dism, 1mp (7)
veces,2pb, 1pe (13) Hilera 4.-1pc, 1mp, 2 dism, 2mp(5)
4, 5 y 6: 1pc 1mp en cada mp (13) Rellenar y coser debajo del morro
7.-1pc, *1aum, 3mp* rep 3 veces , 1pe (16) Cejas (x2)
8.-1pc, *1aum, 4mp* rep 3 veces, 1pe (19) En color negro
9.- 1pc, *1aum,5mp* rep 3 veces, 1pe (22) Hacer una cadena de 14puntos
10.-1pc, *1 aum,6mp*rep 3 veces, 3mp (27) Hilera 1.-6mp,1 aum, 6mp
Trabajar en círculo Coser a la cara.
1.-1mp en cada mp Brazos (x2)
2.-1mp en cada mp En color café claro
Coser los agujeritos que quedan, rellenar y Hacer una cadena de 13 y un punto
coser al cuerpo deslizado al final uniendo el pirncipio
Pies (x2) para formar un círculo.
En color cafe claro 1.-1pc,13mp (13)
Hilera 1.- Aro deslizado de (6) 2 al 5.- 1mp en cada mp (13)
Hilera 2.-6 aumentos (12) 6.-1aum, 12mp (14)
Hilera 3.-*1aum, 3mp* rep todo alrededor (15) 7: 7mp, 1 aum, 6mp (15)
Hilera 4.-*1aum, 4mp* rep todo alrededor (18) 8.-3mp, 1aum, 11mp (16)
Hilera 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 1mp en cada mp (18) 9.-1aum, 16mp (17)
Hilera 11.-*1aum,2mp*rep todo alrededor (24) 10.-8mp, 1 aum, 9mp (18)
Hilera 12.-*1aum,3mp*rep todo alrededor (30) 11.-4mp, 1 aum,14mp (19)
Hilera 13.-1mp en cada mp (30) 12.-1 aum, 18mp (20)
Hilera 14.-10mp, 1mpa,2mpa en los 3 puntos 13.-10mp, 1 aum, 9mp (21)
siguientes, 2mpa (36) Trabajar por filas
Hilera 15.-18 disminuciones (18) 14.-10mp, 1pe (dejar los otros 10 puntos
Rellenar y coser a las piernas sin hacer
Cola 15.-1pc, 5mp,1aum,4mp, 1pe(12)
En color café claro 16.-1pc, 5mp,1aum, 5mp,1pe(13)
1.-Aro deslizado de (4) 17.-1pc, 4mp,1 aum, 4mp,1pe (15)
2.y 3 1mp en cada mp (4) 18.-1pc,7mp,1aum,6mp, 1pe (16)
4.-1 aum, 4mp (5) 19.-1pc,15mp,1pe (16)
5 y 6.-1mp en cada mp 20.-1mp todo alrededor
7.-1 aum, 4mp (6) Rellenar y coser al cuerpo
8 y 9: 1 mp en cada mp (6) Manos (x2)
10:1aum, 5mp (7) En café claro
11 y 12.-1mp en cadamp (7) Dedo índice:
Rellenar y coser al cuerpo. 1.-Aro deslizado de (6)
Acabados 2.-*1 aum , 1mp* rep 3 veces (9)
Añadir pelos a la cabeza y a la cola. 3,4,5 y 6 se tejen los 9mp
Cortar el hilo
Dedo Corazón
1.-Aro deslizado de (7)
2.-1mp, 1 aum, 1mp* repetir 3 veces
(10)
3,4,5,6,1 mp en cada mp (10)
Cortar el hilo
Dedo Meñique
2.-*1 aum, 2mp* rep 3 veces (8)
3,4 y 5 se tejen los (8)
No cortar el hilo seguir con la palma de
la mano
Palma de la mano
1.-27mp alrededor de los 3 dedos (27)
2.-1mp en cada mp, 3dism y 4dism en
cada esquina (20)
3.-1mp en cada mp (20)
4. 1 dism, 18mp (19)
5,6,7,8,9.-1mp en cada mp (19)
Rellenar y coser.
Pulgar
2 y 3.-1mp, *1aum,1mp* repetir 3 veces
(9)
4, 5, 6 y 7 Se tejen los (9)
Cortar el hilo ,
Rellenar todas las partes, coserlas para
unirlas y unir al brazo
Publicado por Paola en 10/25/2012 06:18:00 p.m.
Patrón del gatito amigurumi de Rikkakuma
7 marzo, 2013
¡¡Por fin otro amigurumi!! Últimamente lo tenía un poco abandonado al blog, pero he
ido haciendo algunos proyectos
Este amigurumi lo he sacado de una revista japonesa de Rikkakuma (es un personaje muy
conocido en japón que es un osito muy mono ^^).
Dejo el patrón traducido
Cabeza
Empezar con 10 cadenetas (para conseguir la forma ovalada)
1. 9pb 1tripleaum 8pb 1aum (22)

2. 1aum 8pb 3aum 8pb 2aum (28)
3. 1aum 9pb 1aum 1pb 1 aum 1pb 1aum 9pb 1aum 1pb 1aum 1pb (34)
4. 1aum 10pb 1aum 2pb 1aum 2pb 1aum 2pb 1aum 10pb 1aum 2pb 1aum 2pb (40)
5. 1aum 11pb 1aum 3pb 1aum 3pb 1aum 11pb 1aum 3pb 1aum 3pb (46)
6. 46pb
7. 1aum 12pb 1aum 4pb 1aum 4pb 1aum 12pb 1aum 4pb 1aum 4pb (52)
8. a la 12 –> pb en cada pb (52)
13. 1dism 20pb 1dism 4pb 1dism 17pb 1dism 3pb (48)
14. 48pb
17. 1dism 5pb 1dism 5pb 1dism 4pb 1dism 5pb 1dism 5pb 1dism 4pb (34)
18. 1dism 3pb 1dism 4pb 1dism 1pb 1dism 1pb 1dism 3pb 1dism 4pb 1dism 1pb 1dism 1pb
(26)
19. 1dism 2pb 1dism 3pb 3dism 2pb 1dism 3pb 2dism (18)
Cuerpo
1. 6pb en un anillo mágico
2. 1aum *rep (12)
3. 1aum 1pb *rep (18)
4. 1aum 2pb (24)
5. 1aum 3pb (30
6. 30pb
7. 30pb
8. 1dism 13pb 1dism13pb (28)
9. 1dism 12pb 1dism 12pb (26)
10. 1dism 10pb 1dism 5pb 1dism 5pb (23)
11. 1dism 3pb 1dism 3pb 1dism 3pb 1dism 1pb 1dism 3pb (18)
Oreja x2
2. 1aum 1pb *repetir (9)
3. 1pb 1aum 2pb 1aum 2pb 1aum 1pb (12)
Patita grande x2 (las de abajo)
Con blanco
3 cadenetas
1. 1pb 1tripleaum 1aum (6)

2. 1aum *repetir (12)
3. 1aum 1pb 1aum 2pb 2aum 1pb 1aum 1pb 1aum 1 pb(18)
4. 18pb
5. 4pb 4dism 4pb 1dism (13)
6. 3pb 4dism 2pb (9)
7. Cambiar a hilo negro. 9pb
Patita pequeña x2
Con blanco

2. 1aum *repetir (12)
3. 12pb
4. 4pb 2dism 4pb (10)
5. 10pb
6. Cambiar a negro. 8pb 1dism (9)
7. 1dism 1pb 1dism 1pb 1dism 1pb (6)
8. 3dism (3)
Cola
1. 6pb en un anillo mágico (6)
2. 1aum 1pb *repetir (8)
3. a 6. 8pb
Ami Frog
As requested, here is the pattern for my Ami
Frog.
Materials:
Green Worsted Weight Yarn
Size US-H crochet hook
Black embroidery floss
Polyester Fiberfill
2 Wiggle Sew on Eyes
Blunt darning needle
Abbreviations:
SC = Single Crochet
Ch = Chain
Rnd(s) = Round(s)
Beg = Beginning
SL ST = Slip Stitch
Sts = Stitches
2tog = Crochet 2 stitches together (decrease)
* = Repeat stitches from * to end of *
NOTE: Wiggly Eyes may be unsafe for a small child.
*Frog is crocheted in the round. Use a marker to mark beginning of round*
BODY:
Ch 2
Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in sec ch from hook = 6 sc
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around = 12 sc.
Rnd 3: *2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc; rep from * around = 18 sc.
Rnd 4: *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc; rep from * around = 24 sc.
Rnds 8-17: Sc in each sc around.
Rnd 18: *Sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc; rep from * around = 36 sc.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Stuff body firmly; sew opening shut. (This will be the top of the head).
Flatten bottom so frog will sit upright.
Eyes: Make 2
Ch 2
Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in second ch from hook = 6
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc = 12 sc.
Rnd 3: Sc in each sc around.
Rnd 4: *Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; rep from * around = 18 sc
Rnd 5: Sc in each sc around
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew on Wiggle Eyes.
NOTE: Crocheted round will curl around edges; flatten slightly, leaving a slight “cup”. The
sew-on wiggle eyes will be sewn in center. The frogs eyes will cup slightly.
Arms (Make 2)
Ch 14.
Rnd 1: Sc in 2nd sc from hook – 13 sc
Rnd 2-4: Sc in each sc.
Fold arms, sl st seam closed.
To form fingers: ch 5; bring hook down and sl st in same sc; Ch 5, sl st in next sc, ch 5, sl st
in same sc, repeat one more time in next sc to make 3 fingers.
Fasten off, weave in yarn.
Legs (Make 2)
Ch 16
Rnd 1: Sc in 2nd sc from hook – 15 sc
Rnd 2-4: Sc in each sc around
To form toes: ch 5; bring hook down and sl st in same sc; Ch 5, sl st in next sc, ch 5, sl st in
same sc, repeat one more time in next sc to make 3 toes.
Fasten off, weave in yarn.
Finishing:
1. Flatten bottom for a base so frog can sit.
2. Sew arms and legs to side of body.
3. Embroider mouth using black embroidery floss.
Frog measures 5-3/4” from base to tip of eyes.
NOTE: You can fill bottom with Poly Pellets to make it sit better if you like.
Posted by Armina at 1:21 PM
Labels: Amigurumi
Mostrando entradas con la etiqueta Patrón gratis- Free pattern- Rana amigurumi-
Frog. Mostrar todas las entradas
MIÉRCOLES, 11 DE ABRIL DE 2012
Patrón Rana Amigurumi ♥

Patrón rana amigurumi
Cabeza y cuerpo
1) Anillo mágico de 6 mp.
2) Aumentar en cada mp (12 mp)
3) 1mp., un aumento. (18 mp)
4 a 7) 18 mp
8) 1 mp., una disminución (12 mp)
9 a 10) 12 mp.
11) 2 mp., 1 aumento, (15mp.)
12) 3 mp., 1 aumento, (18 mp.)
13) 18 mp.
14) 1 mp., 1 disminución (12 mp)
15) 1 disminución en cada mp., ( 6 mp.)
Cerrar con aguja de coser lana en zigzag.
OJOs x 2
1) Hacer un anillo mágico de 6 mp. Cerrar con punto enano y dejar hebra para coser
a la cabeza. Colocar en el centro una mostacilla o hacer un nudito francés.
Manos x 2
Realizar una cadena de 12 mp. Dejar la última cadena libre (de altura) y hacer 4
puntos enanos sobre las 4 cadenas siguientes. Hacer 5 cadenas y dejar la última cadena
libre (de altura) y hacer 4 puntos enanos sobre las 4 cadenas siguientes. Hacer 5
cadenas y dejar la última cadena libre (de altura) y hacer 4 puntos enanos sobre las 4
cadenas siguientes.
Hacer 5 cadenas y dejar la última cadena libre (de altura) y hacer 4 puntos enanos
sobre las 4 cadenas siguientes. Juntar los 4 deditos con puntos enanos sobre los
primeros 7 puntos de la cadena. Cerrar. Coser al cuerpito.
Patas x 2 (Igual que las manos pero hacer una cadena más.)
Realizar una cadena de 13 mp. Dejar la última cadena libre (de altura) y hacer 4
puntos enanos sobre las 4 cadenas siguientes. Hacer 5 cadenas y dejar la última cadena
libre (de altura) y hacer 4 puntos enanos sobre las 4 cadenas siguientes. Hacer 5
cadenas y dejar la última cadena libre (de altura) y hacer 4 puntos enanos sobre las 4
cadenas siguientes.
Hacer 5 cadenas y dejar la última cadena libre (de altura) y hacer 4 puntos enanos
sobre las 4 cadenas siguientes. Juntar los 4 deditos con puntos enanos sobre los
primeros 8 puntos de la cadena. Cerrar. Coser al cuerpito. Copyleft Lanaynay
Link (Legend of Zelda) Amigurumi

free pattern
On my journeys across the world of the web, I ran into a Japanese language pattern for the
most adorable little Link I’ve ever seen! Of course, I had to make a little Link for myself, so
I printed out the pattern and set out to work. When I was done and I shared it with my
friends, they were all astounded. Even my mom is thinking about making one, and so I am
bringing the pattern to you in English for what is to my knowledge the first time. The
author, Becchin, has graciously allowed me to do so. Because this is his pattern built from
the ground up, I ask that you please respect his rights as the creator and do not sell the
pattern or the finished product, especially since this falls under the category of
fanart. Furthermore, please do not repost the pattern anywhere (feel free to link me or
Becchin’s page if you want!). I don’t claim ownership over the pattern or Link; I’m just
translating it so you can make a Link and take him on your own adventures! (I am the
original translator though.) If you want to visit Becchin’s page to see some pictures of the
process, click here. This page is the “person core” page which Link’s pattern is based
on. Pictures of Link are here, and his hat pattern is here. Update 6/13/11: I’m
overwhelmed by the response I’ve gotten for this translation! I’m so happy that other
people enjoy this pattern Stephanie at All About Ami created some accessories for Link
from her own patterns, so please check them out here; they’re fantastic! As always, if you
have any corrections please let me know; I’ve already been made aware of a few but I want
to make sure that the pattern will yield the results I said it will. Thanks!
This is the Link amigurumi I made myself!
Well then, let’s get started~! By the way, it took me 2 days to make Link, just like Becchin
said in his 【ニコニコ動画】【あみぐるみ】リンクを編んでみた【ゼルダの伝説】”>video (but I
think you’ll need a NicoNico Douga account to see it…sorry :< )
Materials: E/4 crochet hook (3.50mm), 2 eyes (I used safety eyes, but I’m sure if you’re
willing to use buttons or embroider eyes that would also work), White, Aran (I used this for
Link’s skin color), Green, Yellow, and Brown yarn (all worsted weight; I just used Red Heart
brand), and polyester stuffing such as Polyfil.
It’s important to note that all parts will be worked in rows rather than a spiral, so don’t
forget to do a sl st to close each row!
By the way, I’m an American so I’m using the terminology associated with being on this side
of the pond among English speakers.
Ball Joint & Upper Body (this will later become the base that the head will turn on–it’s a
removable pivoting head)
Row 1: Crochet 6 sc into the middle of a magic ring with Aran colored yarn. (6)
Row 2: Inc all the way around (12)
Row 3: [sc, inc]* Repeat * all the way around (18)
Row 4: sc all the way around (18)
Row 5: [sc, dec]* Repeat * all the way around (12)
Row 8: [sc, inc]* Repeat * all the way around (12) On the very last stitch of this row, switch
colors from Aran to Green. This marks the beginning of the upper body.
Rows 10-13: sc all the way around. On the last sc of Row 12, change colors to Brown. (18)
Shoes (Make 2)
Shoe tops
To begin, ch 10 and then sl st to connect the loop on your hook and the first ch you made
with Brown yarn. (In effect, you are creating a ring out of these 10 sts.)
Row 1: sc around (10)
Row 3: sc 4, inc 2, sc 4 (12)
Row 4: sc 5, inc 2, sc 5 (14)
Row 5: sc 6, inc 2, sc 6 (16)
Shoe soles (Brown yarn)
Row 1: Ch 4. Skipping the ch closest to but not on the hook, sc into the next chain on the
left side of the v made. Then, sc into the next chain on the left side. You should be left with
a single chain at this point. Sc twice into the left side of the chain and then once into the
right side. Then, moving towards your starting point, sc into the next chain on the right side
and then the last chain twice. Sl st to close row. (8)
Row 2: Inc all the way around. Sl st to close row. (16)
Attaching the top and sole
Take a length of yarn and go through both loops of an sc on the wider end of the shoe top
and both loops of an sc on the sole. Sc these together and repeat all the way around. Then,
do the same on the other shoe.
Leg (Make 2)
Row 1: Sc 5 into magic ring with white yarn. (5)
Row 2: Sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1 (7)
Row 3: Sc all the way around (7)
Row 4: Repeat Row 3. (7)
Row 5: Sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1 (10)
Row 6: Sc around (10)
Once you’ve finished the first leg and cut the yarn at a suitable location, repeat for the
second leg. This time, after finishing the leg, don’t cut the yarn off. Instead, go through
both loops of an sc on either side of the ending point and then both loops of an sc on the
other leg. Sc all 4 loops together. From there, sc around the legs as you would usually do,
moving clockwise from the join all the way around. There should be 18 sts that you will sc
normally and the join should count for 1 bringing you to a total of 19. Change to green yarn
on the last sc of the row. Sc around, ignoring the join (18). Do not cut off the yarn when
you have closed this row.
Next, you are going to be attaching the ball joint/upper body to the legs, so please stuff
these to your liking at this point. After that, sc the two parts together (same as you did for
the shoes, except one sc of the upper body and one sc of the legs in this case) using the
green yarn attached to the legs. After that, sc around counterclockwise for one row and then
as you would normally for another row. Finish the row and cut the yarn.
Head
Row 1: Sc 8 into magic ring using Aran yarn. (8)

Row 4: sc all the way around. (24)
Row 5: Repeat row 4. (24)
Row 7: [sc, dec] Repeat * all the way around (16)
Row 9: [sc, inc] Repeat * all the way around (24)
Row 10: Sc counterclockwise all the way around (24) What this technique will do is make it
so the “right side” of the crochet switches sides. The rows you made so far will actually be
on the inside of the head and function as a place for the body joint to go into, thus making
the head pivotable.
Row 11: (go back to crocheting clockwise) [sc 2, inc]* Repeat * all the way around (32)
Row 13: Repeat row 12 (32)
Row 14: Sc 7, dec 4, sc 2, dec 4, sc 7 (24)
Row 15: Sc 6, inc 12, sc 6 (36)
Row 17: [sc 4, dec]* Repeat * all the way around (30)
At this point, I’d recommend stuffing the head and placing eyes if you’re going to do safety
eyes.
Row 21: dec all the way around (6)
Arms (Make 2)
Row 1: Sc 6 into magic ring with Brown yarn. (6)

Row 2: inc all the way around (12)
Row 3: dec, sc 8, dec (10)
Row 5: dec, sc 4, dec (6) Switch to White yarn on the last st of this row.
Rows 6-8: sc all the way around (6)
Sleeve (make 2)
Row 1: sc 6 into one arm where you want the bottom of the sleeve to start. Start so that
the proper part of the arm you want facing out will be covered by the sts of the sleeve. Then
ch 1 and turn for the next row. (6)
Row 2: sc 6. Ch 1 and turn. (6)
Row 3: sc, dec, dec, sc (4)
Row 4: dec, dec (2)
Bind off and sew each arm to body.
Hair
Row 1: sc 6 into magic ring with Yellow. (6)
Row 2: inc all the way around. (12)
Row 4: [sc 2, inc]* Repeat * all the way around (24)
Using sc, attach to the head in yellow yarn. From this point, choose a point where you want
Link’s hair to start on the side of his head and sc around to the point where you think it
should stop on the other side (as for me, I did about 14 sc). Then, do a turning chain and sc
back (if you want, ch 2 and do double crochet instead to make it easier on yourself.) Repeat
until you get his hair to the desired length. For the longer bang (fringe) pieces I went a little
farther forward on his head and chained about 8 sts going away from his scalp from one of
the sc sts created when I attached the hair to his scalp, then considered one a turning chain
and did sc all the way back so there were 7 sc sts. I then went forward to the next sc and
went through it, and did sc all the way to the bottom. Becchin didn’t give instructions for
this, so this is all my fiddling around. To make Link’s short bangs, I threaded a yarn needle
with yellow yarn and stitched it on as I saw fit.
Ears (Make 2)
Sc 5 into magic ring and arrange in half-circle shape. Attach to side of head.
Pointy Hat
Row 1: Sc 6 into magic ring with Green yarn (6)
Row 2: inc, dec, dec, inc (6)
Row 4: inc 2, sc 2, inc 2 (10)
Row 5: inc 2, sc 6, inc 2 (16)
Row 6: inc 2, sc 10, inc 2 (18)
Row 7: inc 4, sc 10, inc 4 (26)
Row 8: inc 4, sc 18, inc 4 (34)
Row 10: inc 4, sc 26, inc 4 (42)
Row 12: inc 2, sc 38, inc 2 (46)
Row 14: dec 2, sc 40, dec 2 (42)
Row 20: sc all the way around counterclockwise (42)
Row 21: sc all the way around clockwise (42)
You’ve finished! LINK GET!! Well, I hope you enjoyed it. Comment if you used it (pictures
are love!) or if there’s anything that needs to be changed about the pattern.
My Big Fuzzy Spider Pattern

October is my most favorite month. I love the cooler weather, the leaves changing color, the
holiday shopping season and of course, Halloween!
This Big Fuzzy Spider pattern is a super easy and super fast crochet project. In less than 1
hour you can make an adorable 12" Halloween plush toy. Here is the FREE pattern:
Materials:
 Super Bulky yarn - Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick n' Quick - black or fig are great!
 J crochet hook
 yarn needle
 slicker brush (pet store) or small hand carder
 15mm safety eyes (1 pair) try Enami Eyes handpainted in Orange-glo!
 polyester fiber stuffing
 felt scraps for nose
Body: J hook and super bulky yarn.
1) Ch 2, 5sc in second ch from hook (5)

2) 2 sc in each st around (10)
3) *2 sc in next st, sc in next st*, rep from ** around (15)
4) *2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts*, rep from ** around(20)
5) *2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts*, rep from ** around (25)
6– 11) sc in each st around (25)
12) *sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts*, rep from ** around (20)
13) *sc2tog, sc in next 2 st*, rep from ** around (15)
*stuff the body firmly with polyester fiber filling*
14) *sc2tog, sc in next st*, rep from ** around (10)

15) sc2tog for each st around, sl st to bind and leave a 12" tail for sewing the legs on. (5)
Head: J hook and super bulky yarn.

8) *sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts*, rep from ** around, sl st to bind off, leave a 12 tail for sewing to
body (15)
Legs: (make 8) J hook and super bulky yarn.

1) Ch 17, turn, sc in next 6, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 9. Ch 3 (toe) sl st in last sc to bind off,
weave in your ends.
Assembly:
Stack 4 legs in the same direction with toes facing outward and thread your 12" yarn tail
through the top st of each. Sew the group of legs to the last round of the body. Repeat this on
the opposite side with legs facing in the opposing direction.
Use your slicker brush to fuzz up the yarn on the body and head. Small, fast strokes work best
:D
Always fuzz your yarn BEFORE you add embellishments. You don't want to scratch the eyes!
Attach safety eyes, (evenly spaced) to round 3 of the head. Sew a dime sized piece of felt
between the eyes for a nose (you can use fabric glue or liquid stitches if you prefer but this is
permanent).
Stuff the head firmly with polyester fiber fill. Using the remaining 12" from your bind off, sew
the head to the body over the joint of the legs. The legs should protrude from between the
head and body.If necessary, add more stuffing when the head is an inch away from being
completely sewn on, before you close and bind off. Finish sewing and weave in your ends.
HAPPY HALLOWEEN...
Free Knitting Pattern: Ollie the Octopus

Lion Brand® Vanna's Choice® Baby
Pattern #: 80795AD
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SKILL LEVEL: Easy +
SIZE: One Size

About 16 in. (40.5 cm) diameter
CORRECTIONS: None
Knit yourself a sea creature! This knit

amigurumi animal is definitely a super fun
critter. Note that the eyes are crocheted. As
seen in Martha Stewart Living, January
2010.
Zoom No Images Braillers Pin It

Color (A)
Vanna's Choice® Baby
Click here for larger swatch
To change colors, simply select color name from the drop-down above or else click the swatch you want to change and then click a color below
Lamb Angel White Aqua Lullaby Pink Little Boy Blue Bluebell Cheery Cherry Chocolate Cake
Goldfish Pink Poodle Berrylicious Duckie Mint Sweet Pea
*Vanna's Choice® Baby (Article #840). 100% Premium Acrylic; package size: 3.50oz/100.00
gr. (170yds/156m) pull skeins
You can also buy materials separately
MATERIALS
To change colors, click the drop-down list or swatches above QUANTITY PRICE ALT QTY
• 840-132 Vanna's Choice Baby: Goldfish ball $ 4.39
• Lion Brand Double-Pointed Needles - Size 5 $ 4.85
• Lion Brand Crochet Hook - Size F-5 (3.75 mm) $ 2.30
• Lion Brand Split Ring Stitch Markers $ 2.49
• Lion Brand Large-Eye Blunt Needles (Set of 6) $ 3.59
• Additional Materials
Fiberfill stuffing
Small amounts of black and rust yarn
•
Ollie the Octopus

Lion Brand® Vanna's Choice® Baby
GAUGE:
Exact gauge is not essential to this project.

STITCH EXPLANATION:
M1 (make 1) An increase worked by lifting the horizontal thread lying between the needles
and placing it onto left needle. Knit this new stitch through the back loop.
OCTOPUS
BODY
Cast on 60 sts. Divide sts onto 3 double-pointed needles. Join, being careful not to twist sts,
place marker for beg of rnd.
Rnd 1: Knit.
Rnd 2: *K2tog, k16, k2tog; rep from * around – 54 sts.
Rnd 3: Knit.
Rnd 5 and 6: Knit.
Rnds 8–11: Knit.
Rnd 12: *K1, M1, k12, M1, k1; rep from * around – 48 sts.
Rnd 13: Knit.
Rnd 15: Knit.
Rnd 17: Knit.
Rnd 19: Knit.
Rnd 21: Knit.
Rnd 23: Knit.
Rnds 25–34: Knit.
Rnd 36: Knit.
Rnd 38: Knit.
Rnd 49: *K2tog, rep from * around – 6 sts.
Cut yarn, leaving a long end. Thread end through remaining sts, pull tightly tog and tie off.
Legs
From RS, pick up and k8 sts along cast-on edge of Body, then cast on 5 sts.
Divide sts onto 3 needles. Join, being careful not to twist sts, place marker for beg of rnd.
Rnds 1–5: Knit.
Rnd 6 (Decrease): K3, k2tog, k to end of rnd – 12 sts.
Rnds 7–11: Knit.
Rnd 12 (Decrease): Rep Rnd 6 – 11 sts.
Rep last 6 rnds 3 times – 8 sts.
Stuff leg lightly.
Rep last 6 rnds 4 times – 4 sts.
Cut yarn, leaving a long end. Thread end through remaining sts, pull tightly tog and tie off.
Second, Fourth, Sixth, and Eighth Legs: Beg in same cast-on st as last picked up st of
previous leg, pick up and k8 sts, then cast on 5 sts, complete leg in same manner as first.
Third, Fifth, and Seventh Leg: Beg in next cast-on st following previous leg, pick up and k8
sts, then cast on 5 sts, complete leg in same manner as first.
UNDERSIDE OF BODY
From RS, working along cast-on edge of legs (underside of body), pick up and k48 sts as
follows: 5 sts along top of each cast on leg, and 1 st between each leg. Divide sts onto double-
pointed needles. Join, being careful not to twist sts, place marker for beg of rnd.
Rnd 1: Knit.
Rnd 2: *K4, k2tog; rep from * around – 40 sts.
Finish stuffing piece.
Rnd 5: Knit.
Rnd 7: *K2tog; rep from * around – 9 sts.
Rnd 8: Knit.
Rnd 9: *K2tog; rep from * around, end k1 – 5 sts.
Cut yarn, leaving a long end. Thread end through remaining sts, pull tight and secure. Fasten
off.
EYES (make 2)
With black yarn and crochet hook, ch 4; join with slip st to form a ring.
Ch 1, work 8 sc in ring; join with slip st in first sc. Fasten off. With rust yarn, embroider a
French knot in center of each eye.
FINISHING
Sew Eyes to Body. Weave in ends.
ABBREVIATIONS / REFERENCES
Click for explanation and illustration
beg = begin(s)(ning) ch(s) = chain(s)

k = knit k2tog = knit 2 together
rep = repeat(s)(ing) rnd(s) = round(s)
RS = right side sc = single crochet
st(s) = stitch(es) tog = together
How to Crochet a Horse or Unicorn Toy
contributed by Grandmas Hookery
Here's a great free crochet pattern that shows how to make a

crocheted horse or unicorn - either is sure to be popular with
the younger horsey set in your family!
Horse or Unicorn Crochet Pattern
Materials List:
 Tapesty needle
 Knitting worsted weight yarn Copyright 2005
 Stitch Markers
 8 oz. main color, MC Allfreecrafts.com
 Fiberfill
 7 oz. of contrasting color, CC Do not reprint or copy except
 6x6" piece of cardboard
 Quilting thread for personal use. Please see
 2 (5/8") half-round shank
 4 (1/2") flat buttons our Terms of Service for more
black buttons OR 2 (15mm)
 crochet hook size G information.
Wiggley Eyes
Crocheted Horse or Unicorn Pattern
Instructions:
HORSE and UNICORN: Neck:
Legs: Make 4 Rnd 1: With MC ch 42, using care not to twist

chain, sl st to join in beg ch to form a ring, sc in
Do not join rounds. Mark the first stitch of each each ch around. (42sc)
round (a safety pin makes a good marker). Rnd 2: Sc in each sc around.
With Leg Color Rnds 3-6: Repeat Rnd 2
Rnd 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6sc) Rnd 7: (Sc in each of next 5 sc, sc dec over next 2
Rnd 2: 2 sc in ea sc around. (12 sc) sc) 6times. (36sc)
Rnd 3: Repeat Rnd 2. (24 sc) Rnd 8: Repeat Rnd 2.
Rnd 4: (sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc) 4 times, sc Rnd 9: Sc in next sc, (sc in each of next 5 sc, sc
in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc.. (29 dec over next 2 sc) 5 times. (31 sc)
sc) Rnd 10: Repeat Rnd 2
Rnd 5: (sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc) 4 times, sc Rnd 11: Sc in next sc, (sc in each of next 4 sc, sc
in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc. (34 dec over next 2 sc) 5 times. ( 26sc)
sc) Rnds 12 & 13: Repeat Rnd 2.
Rnd 6: Working in Back Loops, for this round Rnd 14: Sc in each of next 2 sc, ( sc in each of next
only, sc in each st around. 2sc, sc dec over next 2 sc) 6 times (20sc)
Rnd 7: Sc in ea sc around. Rnd 15: Sc in each of next 2 sc, (sc dec over next 2
Rnd 8: Repeat Round 7. sc) 9 times, sl st in next st, leaving a length of yarn.
Rnd 9: (sc in next 7 sc, sc dec over next 2 sc) 3 Fasten off.
times, sc in each of next 5 sc, Partially fill neck with fiberfill.
sc dec over next 2 sc. (30sc) Rnd 10: Repeat Rnd 7
Rnds 11: (Sc in each of next 5 sc, sc dec over next Assembly:
2 sc) 4 times,
sc in each of next 2 sc (26 sc) Ears:
Rnds 12-14: Repeat Rnd 7. At end of Rnd 14,
fasten off. Line up bottom edges of ear back and front, with
Rnd 15: With Main Color, join, and sc in each sc front centered on back. With a length of MC st
aroundsc in ea sc around. (52 sc) around both pieces. Leaving a 5 sts on head
Rnds 16 & 17: Repeat Rnd7. between ears, position ear between Rnds 22 and 23
Rnd 18: Sc in each of next 5 sc, (sc dec over next 2 of head and sew in place.
sc, sc in each of next 5 sc) 3 times (19sc)
Rnds 19-27: Repeat Rnd 7. Eyes:
Rnds 28: (Sc in each of next 4 sc, sc dec over next
2sc) 3 times, sc in each of next 3sc, sc dec over Thread long tapestry needle with double length of
next 2sc. (19sc) quilting thread. Working over Rnd 17 at each side
Rnd 29: Repeat Rnd 7 of head, sew black shank buttons with several sts
Rnd 30: (Sc in each of next 3 sc, dec 1 sc over next through the stuffing of head indenting slightly,
2 sc) 3 times, sc in each of next 4sc (16 sc) know to secure, weave thread end into head.
Rnd 31: Repeat Rnd 7. If using wiggly eyes, glue eyes in place using
Stuff bottom of hoof area of leg firmly and picture as placement guide.
remaining leg lightly.
Rnd 32: (Sc in each of next 3 sc, sc dec over next 2 Nose:
sc) 3 times, sc in next sc. (13 sc)
Rnd 33: Repeat Rnd 7 Thread long tapestry needle with length of MC.
Rnd 34: Sc in ech of next 2sc, sc dec over next 2sc, Working through both sides of head at Rnd 7, sew
(sc in next sc, sc dec over next 2sc) 3 times (9sc) from side to side several sts indenting slightly, knot
Rnd 35: (Sc in next sc, sc dec over next 2 sc) 3 to secure, weave yarn into head.
times, sl st in next st, leaving a length of yarn, With yarn needle and length of MC using photo as
fasten off (6sc) guide, position head on neck, adding more stuffing
With remaining length, sew opening closed as needed to fill any voids, pin in place until
Weave in end. desired position is reached. Sew head to neck.
Position neck on body at a slight angle so the head
Head: is upright, add stuffing in neck area as needed, pin
into place until desired position, then sew in place.
Rnds 1 - 5: With MC repeat rnds 1 - 5 of leg. For hind legs, thread double long length of quilting
Rnds 6: Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, (sc in each of thread, make a knot that will not pass through
next 7 sc, 2 sc n next sc) 4 times (39sc) crocheted sections. Insert needle through the 10th
Rnd 7: Sc in each sc around Rnd from back of body, (insert the needle through
Rnds 8 -9: Repeat Rnd 7 approx. Rnd 32 of leg, holding a button in place at
Rnd 10: Sc in each of next 2sc, 2 sc in next sc, (sc Rnd 32, insert needle back through button, leg,
in each of next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc) 4 times. body and out opposite side of body) twice, pull
(44sc) gently to indent. Continue to pass the needle back
Rnds 11-25: Repeat Rnd 7. and through legs and body from button to button
Rnd 26: Sc in each of next 2 sc, (sc in each of next secure legs, knot to secure, weave remaining length
4 sc, sc dec over next 2 sc) 7 times (37sc) into body.
Rnd 27: Sc in next sc, (sc in each of next 2 sc, sc For front legs, repeat the same as hind legs,
dec over next 2 sc) 9 times. (28sc) securing front legs at junction of base of neck and
Rnd 28: Sc in next sc, (sc in next sc, sc dec over body.
next 2 sc) 9 times (19sc)
Stuff head with fiberfill. Mane & Forelock
Rnd 29: Sc in next sc, (sc dec over next 2 sc) 9
times, sl st in next st, leaving a length of yarn, Thread needle with long length of CC. Beg at top
fasten off. of head between ears, draw yarn through until there
With remaining length, sew opening closed is about a 4 inch length of yarn remaining, then
take a short tight st near the first loop st. (Work
Ears Back: Make 2 another 4 inch lp st, then a short tight st near the
first loop st) repeat this process between ears,
Row 1: With MC ch 7, sc in 2nd chain from hook, making 2 or 3 rows of loops and short sts from the
sc in each rem ch across.(6sc) turn. back of neck near the ears to near the back of neck.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each of next 5 sc, turn. Tail
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each of next 4 sc, turn.
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each of next 3 sc, turn. Working with CC cut a 10 inch length and set
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in each of next 2 sc, do not turn. aside. Wrap CC around cardboard 35 times, pass
Row 7: Sc evenly sp around outer edge, working 3 the 10 inch piece under center top, knot ends to
sc in each of the bottom corners of ear, sl st in next secure, remove from cardboard. Attach tail to
sc, leaving a length of yarn, fasten off. center back of body.
Ears Front: Make 2
Decorative Leg Buttons
Rows 1-6: With CC repeat rows 1-6 of ear back. At
end of Row 6, fasten off. Rnd 1: With CC, ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd chain from
hook. (6 sc)
Body: Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around, sl st in next st,
leaving a length of yarn. Fasten off
Rnds 1-5: With MC repeat Rnds 1-5 of leg. (34sc) With remaining length of yarn, sew crocheted
Rnd 6: (Sc in each fo next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc) 5 button cover over button that attached leg to body.
times, sc in each of next 3 sc,
2 sc in next sc. (40sc) FOR UNICORN ONLY: UNICORN HORN
Rnd 7: Sc in each of next 5 sc, (2sc in next sc, sc in
each fo next 4 sc) 7 times. (47sc) Rnd 1: With white, ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook.
Rnd 8: Sc in each sc around. (6 sc)
Rnds 9-17: Repeat Rnd 8. Rnd 2: (Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) 3 times. (9
Rnd 18: Sc in each of next 2 sc, (sc in each fo next sc)
7 sc, sc dec over next 2 sc) 5 times. Rnds 3-9: Sc in each sc around. At the end of Rnd
Rnd 19: Sc in each of next 2 sc, (sc in each of next 9, sl st in next st, leaving a length of yarn. Fasten
6 sc, sc dec over next 2 sc) 5 times. (37 sc) off.
Rnds 20-29: Repeat Rnd 8. Stuff horn with fiberfill and sew to center front of
Rnd 30: Sc in next sc, (sc in each of next 2sc, sc head above eyes.
dec over next 2 sc) 9 times. (28 sc) Weave in any ends.
Rnds 31 & 32: Repeat Rnd 8.
Stuff body with fiberfill. Printer Friendly page
Rnd 33: (Sc in each of next 2sc, sc dec over next 2
sc) 7 times. (21sc) See more Free Crocheted Toy Patterns
Rnd 34: (Sc in next sc, sc dec over next 2 sc) 7
times. (14 sc)
Rnd 35: Sc dec over next 2 sc, (sc in each of next 2
sc, sc dec over next 2 sc ) 3 times, sl st n next st.
leaving a length of yarn, fasten off.
With remaining length, sew opening closed.
Flower Power Elephants - free knitting pattern

Here are two ways how
to knit Flower Power Elephants - round and flat.
Here is a pattern for a funny knitted elephant. The pattern is for free. It would be great a “happy
back to school day” surprise for your kid or just something to knit in between bigger projects :o).
The elephant toys are knitted in round on double pointed needles. They knit up quickly and is a
great way to use up small amounts of yarn.
German version of the

pattern:http://peacerebel.wordpress.com/flower-power-elefant/
Anna was kind enough to translate the pattern into German. Thank
you very much, Anna!
Round version
Body, head, trunk and tail (in one piece):

Cast on 8 stitches leaving a long end for an elephant tail. Distribute among 4 needles and join.
Place marker.
Rnd 1: K
Rnd 2: (K1, M1) x 8 (16 sts)
Rnds 3 - 4: K (2 rounds)
Rnd 5: (K2, M1) x 8 (24 sts)
Rnds 6 – 7: K (2 rounds)
Rnd 8: (K3, M1) x 8 (32 sts)
Rnds 9 - 11: K (3 rounds)
Rnd 12: (K4, M1) x 8 (40 sts)
Rnd 33: (K3, K2tog) x 8 (32 sts)
Rnd 34-35-36: K
Rnd 37: (K2, k2tog) x 8 (24 sts)
Rnd 38 - 39: K (2 rounds)
Rnd 40: (K4, k2tog) x4 (20 sts)
Rnds 41- 43: K (3 rounds)
Rnd 44: (K3, k2tog) x 4 (16 sts)
Cast off loosely and cut yarn. Stuff with fiberfill , pull the body firmly, and then very lightly stuff
the trunk. Then tie the trunk in 4 places (see photo).
From a cast on leaving long end make elephant tail - with a hook (5 chain stitches, break yarn).
Sew the hole under the tail.
Ears (make two pieces)

Cast on 12 stitches, leaving a long tail to sew ears to head. They are knitted with garter stitch,
flat.
Rows 1-3: K (3 rows)
Row 4: Sl1, M1, K10, M1, K1 (14 sts)
Rows 5 – 7: K (3 rows)
Row 8: Sl1, K1, K2tog, K6, K2tog, K 2 (12 sts)
Row 9: K
Row 10: Sl1, K1, K2tog, K4, K2tog, K2 (10 sts)
Row 11: K
Row 12: Sl1, K1, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K2 (8 sts)
Row 13: K
Row 14: (K2tog) x 4 (4 sts)
Cast off. Cut yarn leaving a long end.
Legs (make four pieces)

Cast on 12 stitches, leaving a long tail to sew the leg to body. Distribute among 4 needles and
join.
Rnd 1 - 5: K (5 rounds)
Cut yarn leaving a long end. Thread it through sts left on knitting needles, pull to gather tightly,
then fasten off. Weave in ends (not the CO tail – use that for sewing arm onto body). Stuff with
fiberfill and sew to the body.
FINISHING
Sew legs to the body using yarn end left when casting on.
Sew ears on head, making sure both sides of CO edge are held flat against each other.
Embroider the eyes and flowers on Elephant’s body.
Bow
Cast on 6 sts and knit garter stitch (all stitches K) 13 rows. In every row don’t knit the first stitch,
slip it only - than the edge of it looks neat. Cast off. Add the bow to elephant's head.
Flat version
Body, head, trunk and tail (in one piece):

Cast on 9 stitches, leaving a long end for elephant tail.
Row 1: P.
Row 2: (K1, M1) x 8. K1 (17 sts)
Row 3 – 5: st st (3 rows)
Row 6: (K2, M1) x 8, K1 (25 sts)
Rows 7 – 9: st st (3 rows)
Row 10: (K3, M1) x 8, K1 (33 sts)
Row 14: (K4, M1) x 8, K1 (41 sts)
Row 30: (K3, K2tog) x 8, K1 (33 sts)
Row 34: (K2, K2tog) x 8, K1 (25 sts)
Row 38: (K3, K2tog) x 5 (20 sts)
Row 42: (K3, K2tog) x 4 (16 sts)
Rows 43 – 67: st st (25 rows).
Cast off loosely and cut off yarn. Sew up body, stuffing as you sew. Body stuff firmly, and trunk -
lightly. Then tie the trunk in 4 places (see photo).
Using crochet hook make a tail from cast on leaving long end (5 chain stitches. Cut yarn.
Ears (make two pieces)

Cast on 12 stitches, leaving a long tail to sew ears to head.
Rows 1 – 3: K
Row 4: Sl 1, M1, K10, M1, K1 (14 sts)
Rows 5 – 7: K (3 rows)
Row 8: Sl 1, K1, K2tog, K6, K2tog, K2 (12 sts)
Row 9: K
Row 11: K
Row 13: K
Row 14: (K2tog) x 4 (4 sts)
Cast off. Cut yarn leaving a long end.
Legs (make four pieces)

Cast on 13 stitches, leaving a long tail to sew the leg to body.
Start from P row: 5 rows st st.
Cut yarn. Thread it through sts left on knitting needles, pull to gather tightly, then fasten off.
Join row ends of the leg, leaving the top edge open. Stuff with fiberfill and sew to the body.
Embroider the eyes and flowers on Elephant’s body.
FINISHING
Sew ears on head, making sure both sides of cast on edge are held flat against each other.
Bow
Cast on 6 sts and knit garter stitch (all stitches K) 13 rows. In every row don’t knit the first stitch,
slip it only - than the edge of it looks neat. Cast off.
By using our free patterns:

1. You are granted permission by us to use the knitting instructions for your
personal use, charity and knitting pleasure.
2. You agree to use the file and any print-outs of its contents for personal use only.
3. Re-selling or sharing of the file or its contents, either in whole or part, is not
permitted.
4. You may not sell the finished toys made from the pattern.
POSTED BY TWINS KNIT AT 3:43 AM
LABELS: ELEPHANT, FLOWER POWER ELEPHAN
Mouse/Rat Amigurumi
June 23, 2010 by Calophi | 13 Comments
0
inShare
Front and Side
I was poking about for a good rodent amigurumi and I just didn’t like any of the free ones I
found. So I’ve modified a pattern and made one of my own!
I think if I tweak the ears and invent a new tail this could also be used for a chinchilla. Any
interest?
This is a modification of Lion Brand’s Penguin Amigurumi pattern and will refer to it often.
Lion Brand Penguin Amigurumi Pattern
Please note that I do all circles using the magic circle method. Feel free to substitute Lion
Brand’s method if you are more comfortable with it.
Materials
Gray (A) and Pink (B) Worsted Weight Yarn
US Size G Hook
two 9mm safety eyes
large needle to weave in ends
Abbreviations
ch = chain
rnd = round
sc = single crochet
sc2tog = single crochet two together (sc decrease)
sl st = slip stitch
Nose
Front
With B:
Rnd 1: 3 sc into magic loop – 3 sc
With A:
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc – 6 sc
Rnd 3: 2 sc in each sc - 12 sc
Rnd 4: *2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc; rep from * around – 18 sc
Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Body
With A:
Crochet body as per Lion Brand’s pattern until you finish row 20
After row 20, lightly stuff the nose and attach it to body. In the shown example it starts at
row 11.
Attach the safety eyes on either side of the nose where you think they look good. In the
example shown, they are in between rows 9 and 10.
Finish the body as per Lion Brand’s pattern.
Feet (make 4)
With B:
Crochet the feet as per Lion Brand’s pattern up to and including row 3. Finish off, leaving
long tail for sewing.
Ears (make 2)
Back View
With B (inner ear):
Rnd 1: 6 sc into magic loop – 6 sc
Rnd 2: 2 sc in next 4 sc – 8 sc
Finish off and weave in ends.
With A (outer ear):
Rnd 1: 6 sc into magic loop – 6sc
Rnd 2: 2 sc in next 4 sc – 8 sc
Rnd 3: ch 1, turn. 2 sc in next 8 sc – 16 sc
Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Using A’s tail, sew the inner ear to the outer ear. Save the rest of the tail to sew to the head
later.
Finishing Off
Sew the flat end of the ears to the body.
Stuff feet lightly and sew to body.
Using A (for mouse) or B (for rat), sl st to attach yarn to the back of the body and ch 20.
Finish off and weave in ends.
Free Crochet Pattern: Amigurumi Elephant

Lion Brand® Vanna's Choice®
Pattern #: 70582AD
4.7 (based on 101
Rating:
reviews)
Write a review
SKILL LEVEL: Easy

SIZE: One Size
4 in. (10 cm) tall
PUBLISHED IN: Jo-Ann, knit.1

CORRECTIONS: None
One of our menagerie of amigurumi animals,

this little elephant is sure to be a favorite. As
seen inMartha Stewart Living, January 2010.
Color (A)
Vanna's Choice®
Vanna's Choice®
Linen White Pink Aqua Soft Pink Silver Blue Sapphire Dusty Blue
Colonial Blue Navy Raspberry Scarlet Beige Toffee Taupe Chocolate
Espresso Honey Radiant Orange Brick Terracotta Rust Dusty Rose Wild Berry
Rose Antique Rose Magenta Eggplant Dusty Purple Purple Burgundy Silver Grey
Charcoal Grey Black Radiant Yellow Mustard Pea Green Fern Kelly Green Dusty Green
Olive Radiant Lime Cranberry Lime Mountain Print Woods Print Purple Print Autumn Print
Charcoal Print Denim Mist Rose Mist Taupe Mist Purple Mist Seaspray Mist Pearl Mist Tangerine Mist
Oatmeal Grey Marble Wheat Barley Dark Grey Silver Heather Patchwork Grey Vanilla Twist
Heather
Twilight Plum Jam Oceania Cambridge
*Vanna's Choice® (Article #860). 100% Premium Acrylic

400, 401, 403: 92% Acrylic, 8% Rayon
402: 96% Acrylic, 4% Rayon; package size: Solids: 3.5 oz (100 g), 170 yards (156 m)
Prints, Tweeds, & Heathers: 3 ozs (85 g) , 145 yards (133 meters)
Twists: 2.5 oz (70 g), 121 yards (111 meters)
MATERIALS
• 860-105 Vanna's Choice Yarn: Silver Blue ball EUR 3.58
• Lion Brand Crochet Hook - Size G-6 (4 mm) $ 2.00
2 plastic safety eyes, 9 mm diameter
Fiberfill stuffing
•
Amigurumi Elephant
GAUGE:
STITCH EXPLANATION:
sc2tog (sc decrease) Insert hook into st and draw up a loop. Insert hook into next st and draw
up a loop. Yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook.
NOTES:
Elephant is worked in continuous rnds; do not join or turn unless otherwise instructed.
BODY
Ch 2.
Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in first ch; place a marker to indicate beg of rnd; move marker up as each
rnd is completed.
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around - 12 sc.
Rnd 3: *2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc; rep from * around - 18 sc.
Rnd 4: *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc; rep from * around - 24 sc.
Rnd 18: *Sc2tog, sc in next 5 sc; rep from * around - 36 sc.
Following package directions, attach safety eyes. Stuff piece.
Shape Trunk
Rnd 22: *Sc2tog, sc in next sc; rep from * around - 12 sc.
Fasten off. Stuff trunk lightly. Fold open end of trunk up and sew in place.
LEGS (make 4)
Ch 2.
Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in first ch; place a marker to indicate beg of rnd; move marker as each rnd
is completed.
Fasten off.
EARS (make 2)
Ch 2.
is completed.
Fasten off.
FINISHING
Tail
Join yarn with sl st at back of Elephant, and ch 5. Work 3 hdc in 2nd ch from hook. Fasten off.
Stuff Legs and sew to Body. Fold Ears in half to make a half circle, lightly stuff and sew
closed. Sew straight edge of Ears to Head. Weave in ends.

hdc = half double crochet rep = repeat(s)(ing)
rnd(s) = round(s) sc = single crochet
st(s) = stitch(es)
Maybe I should have called it homely hippo!

You have no idea how difficult this little guy was!!
It hasnt been tested. Please let me know if you find any errors, as this
has not been tested.
Thank you!
Enjoy!
Hippo
Supplies needed:
G Hook
Small amounts of WW yarn
Stitch marker or safety pin
Buttons for eyes (optional)
Terms used
Sc = single crochet
Sc-dec = single crochet decrease over 2 stitches
Ch = chain
FO = Finish off, or Fasten off
Slp st = slip stitch
BLO = Back Loops Only
Head
Each round is joined with a slip stitch to the first sc

Chain 4
1) 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in middle sc, 3 sc in last ch from hook. Working along back
side of chain, sc in middle sc, sc in end sc. Join to first sc. (8 sc)
2) ch 1, 2 sc, in joining sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in each of the next 3 sc, sc in
next sc, 2 sc in last sc. (14 sc)
3) ch 1, 2 sc in joining sc, 2 sc in the next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, sc in
next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc. (20 sc)
4-7) ch 1, sc in each sc around.
8) ch 1, (sc-dec) twice, sc in next 6 sc repeat between ( )once (16 sc)
9) ch 1, (sc-dec, sc in next 6 sc) repeat (14 sc)
10-11) ch 1, sc in each sc around
STUFF
12) ch 1, (sc-dec, sc in next 2 sc) repeat around ending with sc-dec in last 2sc (10 sc)
13) ch 1, sc-dec around (5 sc)
FO and use tail to sew head hold shut
Ears (make 2)
Ears are done in a continous spiral.

Ch 2
1) 5 sc in 2nd chain from hook
2) sc in each sc around
Slp st to next sc
FO
Sew ears to head as shown.
Emboider nostrils.
Sew on buttons, or embroider eyes.
Body
Body is done in a continous spiral. A stitch marker or safety pin is recommended.
Ch 2
2) 2 sc in each sc around (10 sc)
3) (2 sc in first sc, sc in next sc) repeat around (15 sc)
4) (2 sc in first sc, sc in next 2 sc) repeat around (20 sc)
6-8) sc in each sc around
9) (sc-dec, sc in next 3 sc) repeat around (20 sc)
13) (sc-dec, sc in next 2 sc) (15 sc)
FO leaving longer tail for sewing.
Sew head to body. Play around with the head until you get the placement right.
Legs (make 4)
Legs are done in a contious spiral

Ch 2
2) In BLO, sc in each sc around
Slp st to the next sc
FO leaving longer tail.
Sew legs to hippo
Tail
Chain 4
1) Slp st in 2nd chain from hook, sc in next 2 chains.
FO
Sew tail onto hippo rump.
Enjoy!
3rd annual hospital toy drive!
I now have an etsy store..click here!
All my free patterns on one spot!
Free Crochet Pattern: Amigurumi Pig

Pattern #: 70589AD
4.8 (based on 56
Rating:
reviews)
Write a review
SKILL LEVEL: Easy
SIZE: One Size

4 in. (10 cm) tall
PUBLISHED IN: knit.1

CORRECTIONS: None

this little piglet is sure to be a favorite. As
seen in Martha Stewart Living, January
2010.
Color (A) Color (B)

Vanna's Choice® Vanna's Choice®
Click here for larger swatch Click here for larger swatc
To change colors, simply select color name from the drop-down above or else click the swatch you want to change and then click a color belo
Vanna's Choice®
Linen White Pink Aqua Soft Pink Silver Blue Sapphire
Colonial Blue Navy Raspberry Scarlet Beige Toffee Taupe
Espresso Honey Radiant Orange Brick Terracotta Rust Dusty Rose
Rose Antique Rose Magenta Eggplant Dusty Purple Purple Burgundy
Charcoal Grey Black Radiant Yellow Mustard Pea Green Fern Kelly Green
Olive Radiant Lime Cranberry Lime Mountain Print Woods Print Purple Print
Charcoal Print Denim Mist Rose Mist Taupe Mist Purple Mist Seaspray Mist Pearl Mist
Oatmeal Grey Marble Wheat Barley Dark Grey Heather Silver Heather Patchwork Gre

400, 401, 403: 92% Acrylic, 8% Rayon
MATERIALS
To change colors, click the drop-down list or swatches above QUANTITY PRICE
• 860-101 Vanna's Choice Yarn: Pink ball EUR 3.58
Note: (A)
• 860-142 Vanna's Choice Yarn: Rose ball EUR 3.58

Note: (B)

Fiberfill stuffing
•
Amigurumi Pig
GAUGE:
STITCH EXPLANATION:
NOTES:
Pig is worked in continuous rnds; do not join or turn unless otherwise instructed.
BODY
With A, ch 2.
rnd is completed.
Following package directions, attach safety eyes.
Rnd 21: *Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sc; rep from * around - 18 sc. Stuff piece.
Rnd 23: (Sc2tog) around - 6 sc.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Weave tail through last rnd and gather tightly. Knot to secure.
Tail
Join B at back of Body, ch 9.
Work 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, and in each ch to end.
Fasten off.
LEGS (make 4)
With B, ch 2.
rnd is completed.
Fasten off.
EARS (make 2)
With B, ch 2.
rnd is completed.
Rnd 2: *2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc; rep from * once more - 6 sc.
Rnd 3: *2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc; rep from * once more - 8 sc.
Fasten off.
NOSE
With B, ch 2.
rnd is completed.
Fasten off.
FINISHING
Stuff Legs and sew to Body. Sew Nose to face. Fold each Ear in half and sew to Head. Weave
in ends.

sc = single crochet st(s) = stitch(es)
Amigurumi Chick/Baby Bird

Mar 20, 2008 posted by noisypitta
Views: 56,797
Comments: 4
Average rating:
VIEW FULL SIZE
Filed under: General, 4 - Medium, Synthetic, Toys & Games, amigurumi, toy, plush, chick, baby
bird
Introduction
Just in time for Easter, you can make cute little baby birds or chicks! These guys are perfect for
stuffing Easter baskets or just putting on your desk at work.
Materials List
* A small amount of yellow (chick) or blue (baby bird) yarn, double-knitting weight
* A very small amount of black yarn, same weight as above
* A small amount of polyester stuffing
* 2.50 mm crochet hook
* Tapestry needle
* 1 pipe cleaner, orange (chick) or yellow (baby bird)
It doesn't really matter what type of yarn you use or what size hook you use; it will just change
the size of the finished bird. I would suggest you use whatever yarn you can find, and use the
smallest hook that you have that won't split the yarn when you work with it. The bird in the
picture was made with 100% acrylic DK yarn and a 2.50 mm crochet hook, and stands about 1-
1/2 inches tall.
Finished Size
Again, the finished size depends on the type of yarn and hook you use. It will be about 1-1/2 to
2 inches tall.
Gauge
Gauge is not used in this pattern.
Notes
Please note that this bird is intended to be enjoyed by adults and older children only. Because
there may be sharp ends on the pipe cleaners, I would avoid giving it to a child under three.
(Also, if your kids are anything like mine is, they'll be quite good at pulling its little eyes out.)
This bird is worked in spiral rounds, so do not join at the end of each round. Use a stitch marker
to mark the first stitch of each round.
Abbreviations used:
mr: make a ring
sc: single crochet
st: stitch
inc: increase
invdec: invisible decrease
The Pattern
Making the body:
Make a ring, and work 6 sc into the ring. (6 st)
Rnd 1: 2 sc in each st around. (12)

Rnd 2: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st) 6 times. (18)
Rnds 3-6: inc 3 times evenly. (30 st at the end of rnd 6)
Rnds 7-8: work even. (30)
Rnds 9-12: invdec 3 times evenly. (18 st at the end of rnd 12)
Rnd 13: (invdec over next 2 st, sc in next st) 6 times. (12)
At this point, cut the yarn about 20 cm from your work, and pull the loop on your crochet hook
bigger and bigger until the tail of the yarn comes through and you're left with a single strand
coming out of your work.
Cut a 2" length of pipe cleaner and fold it in half; this will be your beak. Insert the two ends
between rounds 7 and 8, two posts apart. Push the beak in until it's of the desired size, then
twist the ends together inside so they're secure. Cut off any excess pipe cleaner.
With the tapestry needle and the black yarn, embroider a French knot for each eye, using the
photo as a guide to placement. Don't forget to use a dab of craft glue on each French knot to
hold it together, or it is likely to unravel.
Making and inserting the feet:
This part of the pattern is the most difficult to describe, so I've drawn a diagram:
The long and short of it is: use the remaining pipe cleaner to fashion two three-toed birds' feet,
with the leg sticking upright, using the photo as a guide to the shape of the feet.
The legs should be placed between rounds 11 and 12, 9 posts apart. To fix them in place, push
the leg through the fabric, then twist it into a loop, which then lies flat against the fabric on the
inside. I like to think of this configuration kind of like how you would imagine a snake coiled up in
the bottom of a basket. Anyway, this whole exercise is to ensure that the leg can't simply be
pulled out, so any way you can accomplish that is sufficient.
Finishing the body:
Now that you've finished the eyes, beak and feet, you can stuff your bird with a bit of polyester
stuffing, and close the hole. I like to under-stuff these birds because they make quite good
stress toys and they're fun to squeeze!
Close the hole by threading the end of your yarn onto a tapestry needle and inserting it through
the front loop only of each st around. Pull the yarn tight, and the hole will close naturally. Then
weave in the ends.
Making the wings (optional):
It's up to you whether you choose to put wings on your bird; some people insist they're just as
cute without. If you would like to add wings, as in the picture, here's how you do it:
Make a ring, and work 6 sc into the ring. (6 st)
Rnd 1: 2 sc in each st around. (12)

Rnd 2: work even. (12)
Rnd 3: sc in the first 6 st, ch 1. Now, pinch the fabric together and for the next 6 st, stitch
through both layers of the fabric. You will have stitched the wing closed, into a half-circle shape.
Fasten off, leaving a 20 cm tail. Repeat for the second wing.
To finish the bird, whipstitch the wings to its sides, using the photo as a guide.
noisypitta.blogspot.com
noisypitta.etsy.com
It took me two days (which seemed like forever to me!) to work out
this pattern, but here's my newest baby, a lamb! Just in time for
Spring!
And if anyone is interested in trying out the pattern, here it is:
Baby Lamb
Materials needed:
ww or 4 ply yarn, white and black. (I used I Love This Yarn in white,
and Caron Simply Soft in black)
Size F crochet hook
snap post eyes and nose or buttons or beads. (For young children, I
would recommend embroidering the face details on.)
stuffing material
darning or tapestry needle for sewing the parts together
Abbreviations used:
sc = single crochet
st = stitch
ss = slip stitch
inc = increase (do 2 single crochets in one stitch)
dec = decrease ( insert hook into first stitch, yarn over, pull up a
loop, insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn
over and pull through the two loops on your hook)
NOTE: As amigurumi is made in spirals, do not join rounds. Use a

stitch marker or a piece of thread or yarn to mark the end of your
rounds.
Head:
Using white yarn:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring
Rnd 2: * 2 sc (inc) in next st* repeat from * to * around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: *1 sc in first st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to *
around. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: *1 sc in first 2 st, 2 sc (inc) in third st* repeat from * to *
around. (24 sc)
Rnd 5: *1 sc in first 3 st, 2 sc (inc) in fourth st* repeat from * to *
around. (30 sc)
Rnd 6 - 8: work even, no inc or dec (30 sc)
Rnd 9: *1 sc in first 3 st, sc2tog (dec) in fourth st* repeat from * to
* around. (24 sc)
Rnd 10: *1 sc in first 2 st, sc2tog (dec) in third st* repeat from * to *
around. (18 sc)
Rnd 11: *1 sc in first st, sc2tog (dec) in second st* repeat from * to
* around. (12 sc)
ss in the next st, and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing
Face:
Using black yarn:

around. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: *1 sc in first 2 st, 2 sc (inc) in third st* repeat from * to *
around. (24 sc)
Rnd 5: *1 sc in first 3 st, 2 sc (inc) in fourth st* repeat from * to *
around. (30 sc)
Body
Using body color yarn:

around. (18 sc)
Rnd 4-8: work even, no inc or dec (18 sc)
Rnd 9: *1 sc in first st, sc2tog (dec) in second st* repeat from * to *
around. (12 sc)
Arms: (make 2)
Using black yarn:

Rnd 2: sc in each st around (6 sc) FO Join white yarn
Rnd 3 - 7: sc in each st around (6 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing
Legs: (make 2)
Using black yarn:

Rnd 2: sc in first st, 2 sc (inc) in next, around (9 sc)
Rnd 3: sc even (9 sc) ss in next sc and FO. Join white yarn
Rnd 4: sc even (9 sc)
Rnd 5: sc in first 3 sc, sc dec three times (6 sc)
Rnd 6 - 9: sc even (6 sc)
ss in next sc and FO leaving a long tail for sewing.
Ears: (make 2)
With black yarn:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring (6 sc)
Rnd 4: *sc in first sc, 2 sc (inc) in the next sc* repeat around (9 sc)
Rnd 8: *sc in first sc, sc dec in next sc* repeat around (6 sc)
ss in next sc, and fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Tail:
With white yarn:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring (6 sc)
Rnd 2: *sc in first two sc, 2 sc (inc) in next sc* repeat around (8 sc)
Rnd 3 -6: sc even (8 sc)
ss in next sc, and FO, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Assembly Directions:
I find it easiest to pin my pieces into place before sewing them to

ensure proper placement.
Position and sew face onto head. (I sewed it on one row up from the
bottom row of stitches.)
Gather ears closed by weaving yarn through last row of stitches.
Flatten head with face panel in front. Sew ears to the sides of the
head between rounds 6 and 9.
Attach eyes and nose. Stuff head and set aside.
Stuff body, and sew body to head.
Stuff legs and sew to front of body between rounds 3 and 5.
Stuff tail, and weave yarn through the last row of stitches to gather
closed. Sew to back bottom of body, in rounds 3 and 4, or where it
will balance lamb in a sitting position.
Do not stuff arms. Sew to body between rounds 6 and 8. Use extra
long tail to sew arms into position if desired. Weave in all your ends.
Read more: http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=155762.0#ixzz2ROamEyqD
Birds of a Feather
February 19, 2007 by Hannah (BitterSweet) | 215 Comments
Our kitchen is the only area of the house that enjoys large stretches of clear glass windows,
greeting and welcoming the rising sun more enthusiastically than any other room. That
could at least partially explain why I spend far more time there than in my own room, where
even the wide open curtains only let in the faintest sliver of light, only a mere suggestion
that it might in fact be day time. Like a moth drawn to the light, I’m likely to be found
basking in the glow emitted by the row of windows adjacent to the fully transparent door
downstairs, in the presence of all cooking activities surrounding. As much as I love this
bright space, there are times when I curse the carefully constructed layout. It’s not entirely
unusual to hear a sickening thud out of no where, and it’s instantly understood that another
short-sighted bird mistook the solid surface as an opening.
If this happens when I’m around to hear it, I try to make sure that the feathered creature is
alright, if a bit embarrassed. Although there’s little I could really do to help if they had
seriously injured themselves, it’s a relief to know that my services are rarely need. Only
once did the bird in question not immediately flutter off, shaken but stable. Looking more
than a little dazed, I invited a particularly stricken victim of misperception inside to gather
his wits and take a small breather. Accompanied shortly by two other worried friends, I
asked them all to stay a bit, not wanting anyone to get left behind.
With both caretakers at his sides, it was no time before the whole trio was ready to set off
again, behind schedule but wiser for the unexpected pit stop. Now I can fully appreciate
when people put seemly absurd stickers on large glass surfaces, warning others to look
where they’re going. Obvious to humans (in most cases), but a bird flying at high speed
might not look twice otherwise. Maybe it’s time to invest in something of that sort, although
unfortunately, I doubt that many of my winged friends will be able to read the warnings.
Birds are still a joy to have around for company, and if there were a way to have more of
them stop in without literally hitting the side of the house, I think it would be the best for all
of us. Visitors like the ones pictured here are extremely gracious guests, not at all
demanding, and always courteous to their hosts, not to mention a snap to make. Requiring
only the most basic crocheting competency and smallest amount of yarn, why don’t you
adopt a few today?
Body:
Using an F hook and worsted weight yarn in the color of your choice, sc 6 into a circle
Sc2 into each st (12 sts)
Sc 1, sc2 into next st* around (18 sts)
Sc around
Sc around for 10 rounds
Sc 3, sc2 tog* around (24 sts)
Sc2tog around (6 sts)
Wings (Make 2):
Sc 6 into a circle
Sc 3, sc2 into next st (15 sts)
Tail:
Sc6 into a circle
Assembly:
Stuff body firmly, gather remaining 6 stitches together and tie tightly. Fold tail in half and
sew around outside edge. Sew tail with the flat (inner part) lined up with the last of plain
single crochet on the body. With wings about halfway on the body, sew them on so that
they are symmetrical, and the tail remains centered between them. Embellish with felt beak
and plastic eyes.
Make a whole family, because birds of a feather flock together!
Do no sell this pattern!!
Mouse
I used ww yarn, and an F hook.

Do not join rounds, the mouse is made in one complete spiral.
Use stitch markers or safety pins to mark end of each round
Starting at nose, and working down to tail:
Ch 2
1) 6sc in 2nd chain from hook
2) (2 sc in first sc, sc in next sc) repeat around ( 9 sc)
It is easiest if you embroider face here
11) sc in each sc around.
12) (sc dec, sc in next 4 sc) repeat around ( 20 sc)
13) (sc dec, sc in next 3 sc) repeat around (16 sc)
14) (sc dec, sc in next 2 sc) repeat around (12 sc)
Stuff
15) (sc dec, sc in next sc) repeat around (8 sc)
16) sc dec around (4 sc)
Do not finish off
Chain 12 (this will become the tail)
Slip stitch in 2nd chain from tail, and in remaining chains going up to body.
Finish off leaving long tail.
Use long tail to close hole if necessary, weave in end.
Ear (make 2)
Chain 2
DO NOT JOIN THIS LAST ROUND
Finish off. (by not joining, it gives you a few slightly flatter stitches, this part gets sewn on to mouse)
Contrast Ear (make 2)
With contrast color,
Chain 2
Join to first sc, and finish off leaving long tail
Sew contrast to ears
Sew ears to mouse.
Placement notes: I cross stitched a small "X" at the very tip of mouse for nose. (in pink)
I sewed on small button doll eyes between rows 2-3 for eyes
I sewed the ears on, using row 5.
Enjoy your mouse!
♥Amigurumi Lovebug ♥
Long time no see, today I have another pattern for you all. Another crochet toy converted from
the fantastic pattern by Heliina, you can find the crochet version here. Not only did she make a
pretty little pink lovebug but by simply changing the colours you can make yourself a sweet
little buzzy bee. My version is all knitted but I love how Heliina has added felt and pipe cleaners
for more detail, especially the adorable heart shaped antennae.
So show how much you love someone by giving them a little lovebug and brighten up their day.
Materials
· Set of 3.75mm needles (UK size 9, US size 5)
· Set of 3mm needles (UK size 11, US size 2 ½)
· Set of 3mm double pointed needles (optional for I-Cord)
· Yarn needle
· Toy stuffing
· Optional: black safety eyes, beads, buttons or felt for features, pipe cleaners.
Yarn colours
· Pink
· Red
· Scraps of black yarn/thread if embroidering the eyes and mouth
Yarn weight: Double knitting/ worsted weight
Gauge: not important but make it tight so stuffing doesn’t show through
Finished measurements: approx 3.5” tall and 2” wide (excluding antennae and wings)
Head (use 3.75 needles)

CO 6 sts
1. knit
2. knit
3. kfb every sts (12sts)
4. knit
5. *k1, kfb* along (18sts)
6. Knit
7. *k2,kfb* along (24sts)
8. Knit
10. Knit
11. knit
12. Knit
13. Knit
14. Knit
15. *K2tog, k3* along (24sts)
16. Knit
18. Knit
20. Knit
21. *K2tog * along (6sts)
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail. Draw tail through remaining stitches and pull tightly and secure. At
this stage you may want to add the safety eyes and embroider a mouth. Use tail to mattress
stitch row ends closed stopping halfway to fill with stuffing. Close remaining opening leaving a
long tail to sew onto body.
Body (use 3.75 needles)

CO 6 sts
1. knit
2. knit
3. kfb every sts (12sts)
4. knit
5. *k1, kfb* along (18sts)
6. Knit
8. knit
9. Knit
10. Knit
11. Switch to red *K2tog, k2* along (18sts)
12. Knit
13. Change to pink knit
14. knit
15. Change to red knit
16. knit
17. Change to pink k2tog,k4,k2tog,k2,k2tog, k4, k2tog (14sts)
18. Knit
19. Knit
20. K2tog, k10, k2tog (12sts)
21. Knit
22. K2tog (6sts)
BO remaining stitches leaving a long tail. Use tail to mattress stitch the body closed stopping
halfway to fill with stuffing. Continue to mattress stitch until you reach the cast on stitches. Draw
the yarn through the cast off stitches, pull tightly and secure. Weave in any leftover yarn ends.
Wings (use 3mm needles)
Make 2
CO 2 st
1. kfb, k to last st, kfb (4sts)
2. Knit
4. knit
6. knit
8. knit
10. knit
12. knit
13. k2 tog, k5 and turn, leaving remaining 7 st on the needle
14. knit
15. k2tog, k2, k2tog
16. knit
17. k2tog twice
18. BO 4 st, cut a long piece of yarn (about 10″) and weave through back of piece to reattach to
other side (where you left off when turning)
19. k5, k2tog
20. k2tog, k2, k2tog
21. BO 4 st
Weave in any loose yarn ends

Antennae (use dpn's)
Make 2
Cast on 2 sts
1. I-cord for ¾” (2cm)
2. Kfb into both stitches (4sts)
3. Knit
4. Knit
5. Knit
Cut yarn leaving a long tail. Draw tail through remaining stitches and pull tightly and secure.
Shape the wider part of the antennae into the shape of a ball and sew over so a nice round
shape is achieved.
Assembly:
Sew yarn tail from the head onto the bind off stitches of the body.
Sew the wings about halfway down on the body, sew them on so that they are symmetrical.
Sew the antennae onto the top of the head making sure they are symmetrical.
Face Features:
The lovebug in the pattern photograph has black toy safety eyes (size 5mm) Black mouth
embroidered on with yarn. I would not recommend given this toy to a child under 3 years old if
safety eyes are used. To make it safe to give to a child from birth I suggest embroidering eyes
on with yarn, this makes the toy completely safe for any child from birth as the features cannot
be easily removed or fall off.
Alternative features :
· Small button eyes
· Small bead eyes
· Glue on ‘googly’ eyes
· Felt eyes
· Pipe cleaner antennae
** WARNING: When using any embellishments please be aware of these may be choking
hazards if given to small children or babies**
♥ Raynor
Free Knitting Pattern: Francis the Fish

Lion Brand® Vanna's Choice® Baby -
Vanna's Choice®
Pattern #: 81106AD
5.0 (based on 7
Rating:
reviews)
Write a review
SKILL LEVEL: Easy +
SIZE: One Size
About 8 in. (20 cm)
This amigurumi animal is a super fun critter!

Please note that this pattern requires some
CORRECTIONS: (applied Dec 18,
basic crochet skills.
2012)
Rnds 7-9 6-8: *K2, p2, rep from * Zoom No Images Braillers Pin It
around.
The above is only a summary of corrections; the corrected pattern
text is below (if free) or shipped upon completion of order (if
purchased)
Color (A) Color (B)

Vanna's Choice® Baby Vanna's Choice®
Click here for larger swatch Click here for larger swatch
Color (C)
Vanna's Choice®
To change colors, simply select color name from the drop-down above or else click the swatch you want to change and then click a color bel
Lamb Angel White Aqua Lullaby Pink Little Boy Blue Bluebell Cheery Cherry
Goldfish Pink Poodle Berrylicious Duckie Mint Sweet Pea
*Vanna's Choice® Baby (Article #840). 100% Premium Acrylic; package size: 3.50oz/100.00 gr. (170yds/156m) pull skeins

400, 401, 403: 92% Acrylic, 8% Rayon
MATERIALS
To change colors, click the drop-down list or swatches above QUANTITY PRICE
• 840-132 Vanna's Choice Baby: Goldfish ball EUR 3.58
Note: (A)
• 860-133 Vanna's Choice Yarn: Brick ball EUR 3.58

Note: (B)
• 860-135 Vanna's Choice Yarn: Rust ball EUR 3.58

Note: (C)
• Lion Brand Knitting Needles- Size 6 [4.00 mm] $ 2.93

• Lion Brand Double-Pointed Needles - Size 6 $ 4.85
• Lion Brand Stitch Holders $ 4.88
 Fiberfill stuffing
 Small amount of black yarn
Francis the Fish

Lion Brand® Vanna's Choice® Baby - Vanna's Choice®
GAUGE:
BODY PANEL (make 3)

With straight needles and A, cast on 3 sts.
K 1 row, p 1 row.
Row 1 (Increase Row): Inc in first st, k to last st, inc in last st – 5 sts.
Row 2: Purl.
Rep last 2 rows twice more – 9 sts.
Change to B and rep Rows 1 and 2 once – 11 sts.
Change to C.
Next Row (RS): Inc in first st, p to last st, inc in last st – 13 sts.
Next Row (WS): Change to B. Purl.
With B, rep Rows 1 and 2 once – 15 sts.
Change to A and rep Rows 1 and 2 twice – 19 sts.
Change to C and rep Row 1 – 21 sts.
Change to A and p 1 row.
With A, rep Rows 1 and 2 – 23 sts.
With A, k 1 row.
Change to B and p 1 row, k 1 row.
Change to C and p 2 rows.
Next Row: Change to B. Purl.
Next Row: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog – 21 sts.
Change to A and rep last 2 rows twice – 17 sts.
Change to C and p 1 row.
Next Row: Change to A.
K2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog – 15 sts.
Next Row: Purl.
Rep last 2 rows once – 13 sts.
Next Row: Change to B. K2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog – 11 sts.
Change to C and k next WS row.
Next Row: Change to B. K2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog – 9 sts.
Next Row: Purl.
Change to A and rep last 2 rows 3 times – 3 sts.
Sl sts to a stitch holder.
Seam 3 panels together along long sides, leaving 3 sets of sts on holders. Before sewing final
seam, stuff piece, then finish sewing closed.
Tail
From RS with double-pointed needles and B, pick up and k3 sts from each holder – 9 sts. Join,
being careful not to twist. Place marker for beg of rnd.
Rnd 1: Knit, inc 3 sts evenly spaced around –12 sts.
Rnd 2: K1, p1 around.
Rnd 3: *K into front and then back of next st, p next st, rep from * around – 18 sts.
Rnd 4: *K2, p1, rep from * around.
Rnd 5: *K2, p into back and then front of next st, rep from * around – 24 sts.
Rnds 6-8: *K2, p2, rep from * around.
Bind off.
TOP FIN
With straight needles and B, cast on 13 sts.
Row 1: *K1, p1, rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 2: Bind off 2, *p1, k1, rep from * to last st, end p1.
Row 3: *K into front and then back of next st, p1, rep from * 3 more times, k1, p1, k1 – 15
sts.
Row 4: Bind off 2 sts, k the knits and p the purls to end of row.
Row 5: K the knits and p the purls across.
Row 6: Bind off 6 sts, k the knits and p the purls to end of row.
Row 7: Rep Row 5.
Bind off.
SIDE FINS (make 2)

With straight needles and B, cast on 5 sts.
Row 1: *K1, p1, rep from * to last st, k1.
Row 2: P1, *k into front and then back of next st, p1, rep from * across.
Row 3: K the knits and p the purls across.
Row 4: Rep Row 2.
Rows 5 and 6: Rep Row 3.
Bind off.
EYES (make 2)
With crochet hook and C, ch 2, work 6 single crochet in first ch. Join with slip st in beg st,
fasten off. With black yarn, embroider a French knot in center of eye.
FINISHING
Sew Side Fins, Top Fin, and Eyes to Body Panel.
Weave in ends.

dec = decreas(e)(s)(ing) inc = increas(e)(s)(ing)
k = knit k2tog = knit 2 together
p = purl rep = repeat(s)(ing)
St st = Stockinette stitch st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side
Free Crochet Pattern: Amigurumi Holiday Penguin

Pattern #: 70703AD
Rating: 4.8 (based on 29
reviews)

Write a review
SKILL LEVEL: Easy
SIZE: One Size
9 in. (23 cm) tall
CORRECTIONS: (applied Nov 29, 2012)
SCARF
With E, ch 5
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch this cheery holiday bird with a Christmas-
across - 4 sc. striped hat is sure to be a favorite.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each sc across.
Rep Row 1 2 until scarf measures 12 in.
(30.5 cm) from beginning. Fasten off.
The above is only a summary of corrections; the corrected

pattern text is below (if free) or shipped upon completion of
order (if purchased)
Color (A) Color (B)

Color (C) Color (D)

Color (E)
Vanna's Choice®
Vanna's Choice®
Oatmeal Grey Marble Wheat Barley Dark Grey Heather Silver Heather Patchwork Grey Vanilla Twist

400, 401, 403: 92% Acrylic, 8% Rayon
MATERIALS
• 860-153 Vanna's Choice Yarn: Black ball EUR 3.58
Note: (A)
• 860-100 Vanna's Choice Yarn: White ball EUR 3.58
Note: (B)
• 860-158 Vanna's Choice Yarn: Mustard ball EUR 3.58
Note: (C)
• 860-133 Vanna's Choice Yarn: Brick ball EUR 3.58
Note: (D)
• 860-174 Vanna's Choice Yarn: Olive ball EUR 3.58
Note: (E)
Fiberfill stuffing
Amigurumi Holiday Penguin

GAUGE:
STITCH EXPLANATION:
NOTES:
Penguin is worked in continuous rnds; do not join or turn unless otherwise instructed. When
working in the rnd, place marker to indicate beg of rnd and move marker up as each rnd is
complete.
HEAD
With A, ch 2.
Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in first ch.
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around -12 sc.
Rnd 4: *2 sc in next sc, sc in each of next 2 sc; rep from * around - 24 sc.
Rnds 7-13: Sc in each sc around. Fasten off A.
Rnd 14: With B, sc in each sc around - 36 sc.
Rnd 15: *Sc2tog, sc in each of next 4 sc; rep from * around - 30 sc.
Fasten off.
BODY
With A, ch 2.
Rnds 1-6: Rep Rnds 1-6 of Head.
Fasten off.
EYES (make 2)
With B, ch 2.
Rnd 2:2 sc in each sc around - 12 sc. Fasten off.
BEAK
With C, ch 2.
Fasten off.
FEET (make 2)
With C, ch 2.
Fasten off.
WINGS (make 2)
With A, ch 2.
Fasten off.
TUMMY PATCH
With B, ch 2.
Rnd 5: Sc in next 11 sc, 2 dc in each of next 2 sc, sc in next 11 sc.
Fasten off.
SCARF
With E, ch 5
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across - 4 sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each sc across.
Rep Row 2 until scarf measures 12 in. (30.5 cm) from beginning. Fasten off.
HAT
With D, ch 2
Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in first chain.
Rnd 5: Sc2tog around - 6 sc.
Rnd 6: With E, sc in each sc around - 6 sc.
Rnd 8: With D, sc in each sc around - 9 sc.
Fasten off.
FINISHING
Following package directions, attach safety eyes to crocheted Eyes.
Sew eyes to Head. Stuff Head and body firmly. Sew Head to Body, sew on Tummy Patch and
Beak. Sew Wings and Feet to each side. Lightly stuff Hat and sew to Head, fold down hat and
tack down. Tie Scarf around neck. Weave in ends.
tog = together
Free Crochet Pattern: Amigurumi Graduation Owl

Pattern #: 80282AD
4.8 (based on 39
Rating:
reviews)

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SKILL LEVEL: Easy
SIZE: One Size

About 6 in. (15 cm) tall
CORRECTIONS: None
Color (A) Color (B)

Color (C) Color (D)

Color (E)
Vanna's Choice®
Vanna's Choice®
Oatmeal Grey Marble Wheat Barley Dark Grey Heather Silver Heather Patchwork Grey Vanilla Twist

400, 401, 403: 92% Acrylic, 8% Rayon
MATERIALS
• 860-126 Vanna's Choice Yarn: Chocolate ball EUR 3.58
Note: (A)
• 860-099 Vanna's Choice Yarn: Linen ball EUR 3.58
Note: (B)
• 860-100 Vanna's Choice Yarn: White ball EUR 3.58
Note: (C)
• 860-158 Vanna's Choice Yarn: Mustard ball EUR 3.58
Note: (D)
• 860-110 Vanna's Choice Yarn: Navy ball EUR 3.58
Note: (E)
 2 plastic safety eyes, 9 mm diameter

 Fiberfill stuffing
•
Amigurumi Graduation Owl
GAUGE:
STITCH EXPLANATION:
sc2tog (sc decrease) Insert hook into st and draw up a loop. Insert hook into next st and draw up a
loop. Yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook.
NOTES:
Work in continuous rnds; do not join rnds or turn unless otherwise instructed.
HEAD
With A, ch 2.
Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in first ch. Place marker for beg of rnd; move marker up as each rnd is
completed.
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around–12 sts.
Rnd 3: *2 sc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around–18 sts.
Rnd 4: *2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around–24 sts.
Rnds 6–13: Sc in each st around.
Rnd 14: *Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around–24 sts.
Fasten off.
BODY
With B, ch 2.
Rnds 1–5: Work Rnds 1–5 of Head–30 sts.
Fasten off.
OUTER EYE (make 2)

With B, ch 2.
Fasten off.
INNER EYE (make 2)

With C, ch 2.
Rnds 1 and 2: Work Rnds 1 and 2 of Head–12 sts.
Fasten off.
WING (make 2)
With A, ch 2.
Rnd 1: Work 4 sc in first ch. Place marker for beg of rnd; move marker up as each rnd is
completed.
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around–8 sts.
Rnd 3: *2 sc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around–12 sts.
Rnd 12: (Sc2tog) 8 times–8 sts.
Fasten off.
BEAK
With D, ch 2.
Rnds 1 and 2: Work Rnds 1 and 2 of Wings–8 sts.
Fasten off.
EAR (make 1)
With A, ch 2. Make as for Beak.
CAP
With E, ch 2.
Rnd 5: Sc in each st around.
Fasten off.
MORTARBOARD (make 2)
With E, ch 9.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across–8 sts.
Rows 2–8: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across.
Fasten off.
FEET (make 2)
With A, ch 4.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across–3 sts.
Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in last st–4 sts.
Row 3: Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 3 sts–5 sts.
Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc in first 3 sts; leave remaining sts unworked–3 sts.
Fasten off.
FINISHING
Layer Inner Eyes on Outer Eyes. Following package directions insert safety eyes through
center of Eyes and attach to Head. Firmly stuff Head. Stuff Beak and sew to Head. Stuff Body
firmly and sew to Head. Sew Wings to sides of Body. With shaped edge at front, sew Feet to
bottom of Body. With wrong sides of the 2 Mortarboards together and working through both
thicknesses, join E with sl st edge and work sc evenly spaced around outside edge. Sew
Mortarboard to center of Cap, then sew hat onto one side of Head, Ear to opposite side. Sew a
strand of D to top of Mortarboard for tassel, fray end of strand.
Weave in ends.
Free Crochet Pattern: Goldfish Cat Toy

Lion Brand® Microspun
Pattern #: 80204AD
4.3 (based on 11
Rating:
reviews)

Write a review
SKILL LEVEL: Easy
SIZE: One Size
PUBLISHED IN: By Kids, For Kids

CORRECTIONS: None
Color (A)
Microspun

Microspun
Lily White Blush Royal Blue Cherry Red Leaf Purple Turquoise Ebony
*Microspun (Article #910). 100% Micro-Fiber Acrylic; package size: 2.50oz/70.00 gr.
(168yds/154m) pull skeins
MATERIALS
To change colors, click the drop-down list or
swatches above QUANTITY PRICE ALT QTY
• 910-186 Microspun Yarn: ball EUR 4.31 Not available, sorry!

Mango Select a different color or click
foryarn substitutions
• Lion Brand Crochet Hook - Size $ 1.87

E-4 (3.5 mm)
• Lion Brand Large-Eye Blunt $ 2.93

Needles (Set of 6)
Fiberfill stuffing
Small amount each of white and black yarn
Small amount of yarn, ribbon, or string for hanging
2 jingle bells and catnip (optional)
Goldfish Cat Toy

Lion Brand® Microspun
GAUGE:
FISH
Ch 3, work 10 sc in 3rd ch from hook.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, work 2 sc in each st around, join with sl st in beg st-20 sts.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st in beg st.
Rnds 3-6: Rep Rnd 2.
Rnd 7: Ch 3, dc in same sp, dc in next st, *2 dc in next st, dc in next st, rep from * around, join with sl
st in beg st-30 sts. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
LARGE FINS (make 2)

Ch 13.
Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in each of next 3 ch, tr in each of next 3 ch, hdc in each of
next 3 ch, sc in last ch. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
SMALL FINS (make 2)

Ch 8.
Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in each of next 3 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in last ch. Fasten off,
leaving a long tail for sewing.
EYES (make 2)
With white yarn, ch 2. Work 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
FINISHING Stuff Fish, adding bells and catnip if desired. Thread yarn tail into large-eyed needle, weave
through sts at opening, gather tightly together and fasten off. Sew on fins. With black yarn, embroider
a French knot on each Eye, sew Eyes to Fish.
Tie hanging string securely to fish. Weave in ends.
ch(s) = chain(s) hdc = half double crochet
rep = repeat(s)(ing) sl = slip
st(s) = stitch(es)
Patrón del Corderito (y más) // Little

lamb pattern (and much more)
Subido porAnxo
1 comentarios
English pattern below
Hace unos días, Kelen de Lucecita roja me pedía el patrón del corderito como premio por
haber empezado a dominar el anillo mágico. Y como el patrón es sencillo y creo que apto
para todos los niveles (aunque tiene unas partes un poco más difíciles porque no tienen
aumentos) me pareció buena idea.
Es el patrón que uso normalmente para hacer conejitos, osos y otros animales (he hecho
conejos, el cordero, un gatito, osos, pandas y leones, que recuerde), cambiando solamente
las orejas y su posición.
El patrón, lo dije siempre, está basado en el patrón gratuito (no sé si libre, no especifica) de
Ana Paula Rímoli, “Amigurumi bear and pot of honey (Oso amigurumi y bote de miel)” al
que he reducido la cabeza considerablemente además de crear las diferentes orejas. Y para
las lectoras españolas, traducido.
Al terminar el patrón indicaré cómo coser las orejas (que para los conejos y corderos es la
misma pieza, colocada en diferente posición). No indico dónde hay que empezar a rellenar.
Mi corderito lleva ojos de seguridad de 9mm y un cascabel pequeño.
Así que ahí va el patrón:
Abreviaturas:
pb: punto bajo
aum: aumento (2pb en un mismo punto)
dism: disminución (1pb en dos puntos)
*repetir la secuencia en toda la vuelta*
[número de puntos que forman una vuelta]
Cabeza:
Vuelta 1: anillo mágico de 6 puntos [6]
Vuelta 2: 2pb en todos los puntos de la vuelta [12]
Vuelta 3: *1pb en el siguiente 1pb, aum en el siguiente pb* [18]
Vuelta 4: *1pb en los siguientes 2pb, aum en el siguiente pb* [24]
Vuelta 5: *1pb en los siguientes 3pb, aum en el siguiente pb* [30]
Vuelta 6-10: 1pb en cada pb de la vuelta [30]
Vuelta 11: *1 pb en los siguientes 3pb, dism en el siguiente pb* [24]
Vuelta 12: *1pb en los siguientes 2pb, dism en el siguiente pb* [18]
Vuelta 13: *1pb en el siguiente pb, dism en el siguiente pb* [12]
Vuelta 14: dism todos los puntos de la vuelta [6]
Cerrar
Cuerpo:
Vuelta 2: aum todos los puntos de la vuelta [12]
Vuelta 3: *1pb en el siguiente pb, aum en el siguiente pb* [18]
Orejas (hacer dos) (no rellenar):

Vuelta 2: aum todos los puntos de la vuelta [12]
Brazos (hacer dos) (no rellenar):

Vuelta 1: anillo mágico de 6 punto [6]
Piernas (hacer dos) (no rellenar):

Para coser las orejas (para hacer un conejo, coser en lo alto de la cabeza; para un cordero, a
la altura de los ojos):
Este patrón es un patrón con licencia libre. ¿Qué significa? Que puedes hacer con él lo que
quieras: redistribuirlo, modificarlo, vender los muñecos que hagas con él... siempre que
nombres de la fuente, es decir, este blog o mi nombre, Anxo Cunningham. También debes
mantener estas condiciones si reutilizas el patrón.
Little lamb (amigurumi pattern) por Anxo Cunningham se encuentra bajo una Licencia
Creative Commons Atribución-CompartirIgual 3.0 Unported.
-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-
Patrón de pingüino pequeño / Little

penguin pattern
Subido porAnxo
1 comentarios
(English pattern below)
Hace unos días tuve que hacer un pingüino pequeño. No era el primero que hacía, pero este
tenía que adaptarse al tamaño de un llavero más o menos, y todos los patrones que tenía
eran demasiado grandes. Y así hice este pingüinito bola.
El patrón es muy sencillo, y se hace rápido.
Lo hice con lanas de color negro, blanco y naranja. Los ojos que le puse son ojos de
seguridad de 7,5mm. Y está relleno con guata, como todos los amigurumis que hago. No
doy indicaciones de dónde empezar a rellenar el amigurumi.
Abreviaturas
pb = punto bajo
pr = punto raso
aum = aumento (dos pb en el mismo punto)
dism = disminución (un pb en dos puntos)
*repetir la secuencia durante toda la vuelta*
Circunferencia de los ojos (hacer dos)

Vuelta 2: *1 pb en el siguiente pb, aum en el siguiente pb* [9]
Recomiendo hacer un pr en el primer punto de la siguiente vuelta, y cortar la hebra.
Pico
Vuelta 2: aum en todos los puntos de la vuelta [12]
Cuerpo
Empezar en color negro
Vuelta 1: Anillo mágico de 6 puntos [6]
Vuelta 2: Aumentar todos los puntos [12]
Vuelta 3: *1 pb en el siguiente pb, aum en el siguiente pb* [18]
Vuelta 4: *1 pb en los siguientes 2 pb, aum en el siguiente pb* [24]
Vuelta 5: *1 pb en los sigueintes 3 pb, aum en el sigueinte pb* [30]
Vuelta 6-8: un pb en cada pb de la vuelta[30].
En el último pb, cambiar al color blanco
Vuelta 9-10: un pb en cada pb [30]
Vuelta 11: 1 pb en los siguientes 2 pb, dism en el siguiente pb [26] (sobran dos puntos al
final de la vuelta, un pb en cada uno)
Vuelta 12: 1 pb en el siguiente pb, dism en el siguiente pb [20] (sobran dos puntos al final
de la vuelta, un pb en cada uno)
Vuelta 13-14: dism cada pb hasta cerrar la pieza
Alas (hacer dos)

Vuelta 1: Anillo mágico de 6 puntos [6]
Vuelta 2: Aum todos los puntos [12]
Vuelta 3-6: un pb en cada pb [12]
Pattern: Dragon
Posted 1 year ago
It’s the Year of the Dragon this year! To celebrate, crochet your own fire-breathing cuties
in a rainbow of colours for yourself or for your friends!
Materials:
 green yarn (I used Patons Grace in Ginger)
 2.00 mm crochet hook
 yarn needle
 fiberfill
 beige felt (for wings and scaled body), dark brown felt (for horns), and pink felt (for
cheeks)
 7.5 mm safety eyes
 black embroidery floss (for mouth), white embroidery floss (for fang), tan embroidery
floss (for scaled body)
 glue gun
 fabric glue
Note: I worked in continuous rounds (vs. joined rounds). ***PLEASE follow along with my
blog post here to see step-by-step photos.
HEAD
Using green yarn,
Chain 7
R1: Starting from second chain from hook, Sc 6. Turn and Sc 6 [we are making an oval by
crocheting around the chain]. (12 sts)
R2: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times. (18 sts)
R4: *Sc 3, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6-8: Sc 36
R12-R16: Sc 54
R17: *Sc 7, dec 1*, rep 6 times (48 sts)
R18: Sc 48
Position safety eyes and embroider mouth and fang.
Stuff head firmly.
R22: *Dec 1*, rep 10 times (10 sts)
Fasten off and weave in end. Cut two oval pieces of pink felt and glue onto face as cheeks.
WINGS (make 2)
- Cut out two isosceles triangles from beige felt.
- Using same yarn as head, cut 5 pieces of yarn for each wing and splay them outwards from the tip
of the triangle.
- Using fabric glue, secure the yarn in place.
- Trim the felt cutting from one piece of yarn to the next and then scallop the edges between the yarn
pieces.
- Secure wings onto the Dragon’s head using a glue gun.
HORNS (make 4: 2 small, 2 large)
Cut the following shapes out of dark brown felt. Apply glue with a glue gun and roll into cone
shapes (similar method here). Make two larger cones for the back and two smaller cones for the
front. Glue them onto Dragon’s head.
LEGS (make 2) + BODY

Using green yarn,
R1: 6 Sc in magic ring (6 sts)
R2: 2 sc in each sc around (12 sts)
R3: Sc 12
For the first leg, fasten off (no need to leave long end for sewing). For the second leg, do not cut off
the yarn. Chain 1 and join with slip stitch to any sc on first leg. *Slip stitch in next sc around
on same leg, Chain 1, then slip stitch to next sc on oppositeleg*, rep 3 times.
The stitch count gets a little messy with these joins, so I single crocheted around the legs and joins
for Row 4 as follows:
R4: Sc 22
R5-12: Sc 22
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Stuff body and sew to head.
ARMS (make 2)
Using green yarn,
R1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6 sts)
R2-4: Sc 6
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Attach to sides of body.
TAIL
Using green yarn,
R2-3: Sc 4
R4: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 2 times (6 sc)
R5: *Sc 2, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 2 times (8 sc)
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Attach to bottom-back of Dragon to help give him
balance. If you want your Dragon to appear like he is leaning back and about to give out a puff of
fire, angle the tail upwards.
Adding scaled detailing to body:
- Cut out above shape from beige felt. Wrap tan embroidery floss around felt piece applying glue
dots on the back along the way to secure the floss in place. Glue felt piece with embroidery floss
onto body of Dragon when complete.
Have a very Happy Chinese New Year, and have fun making these legendary creatures :) They
would make extra special gifts for babies born this year or for people who are the Year of the
Dragon. Once again, please check out my full blog here to see close-up shots of all of Dragon’s
details! Happy crocheting!
This pattern is an original pattern by Stephanie of All About Ami (January 2012). Please do not
claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but
please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not
sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.
Pattern: Link’s Hylian Shield,

Sword and Sheath
Posted 1 year ago
Link was crocheted using an original pattern by Becchin, translated by Tanoshimou. Check
out the following links (haha, no pun intended) to help you make your own hero of Hyrule:
 Becchin’s ‘person core’ page that Link is based on: he has great step-by-step photos
(click here)
 Becchin’s photos of Link as well as a very useful video showing the process (click here)
 Tanoshimou’s translation of Becchin’s pattern into English (click here)
 MY step-by-step blog post to see how I used the above resources to make this adorable
Link (click here)
I followed Tanoshimou’s pattern except for the hat, as I found the pattern written out
produced a hat that was far too big for Link. I kept single crocheting 42 all the way around
from rows 12-18, went counter-clockwise for row 15, and then went around clockwise for
rows 16-18 (I did not take it past row 18).
Now onto my pattern for Link’s Hylian Shield, Sword, and Sheath!
Materials:
 blue and grey yarn (for the shield) and brown yarn (for the sword and sheath)
 yellow and red embroidery floss
 yarn needle
 glue gun
 chopstick
Note: I worked in continuous rounds (vs. joined rounds).
SHIELD:
The shield consists of the (1) front part, (2) back part, and (3) strap.
(1) Front part
Using blue yarn,
R1: Ch 2, 2 sc in second ch from hook, turn. (2)
R2: Ch 1, *sc 2 in next sc*, rep 2 times, turn. (4)
R3: Ch 1 *sc 2 in next sc*, rep 4 times, turn. (8)
R4-6: Ch 1, sc 8, turn. (8)
R7: Ch 1, sc 3, *sc 2 in next sc*, rep 2 times, sc 3, turn. (10)
R8-10: Ch 1, sc 10, turn. (10)
R11: Ch 1, sc 1, dc 1, dc 1, tr 1, tr 1, ch 1, tr 1, tr 1, dc 1, dc 1, sc 1.
Fasten off and weave in end.
Resulting shape should look like this:
Using grey yarn, single crochet around the border of the shield. Chain 2 at bottom corner. Chain 3
at top corners (see below diagram).
Result after single crocheting around border:
Using grey yarn, embroider the following design along the edges with a yarn hook:
Using yellow yarn, embroider the Triforce and a triangle.
Using red yarn, embroider the Eagle design.
(2) Back part
To make back of shield, follow same pattern above (i.e. Rows 1-11) using blue yarn. Do not use
grey yarn to single crochet around the edge and do not embroider any designs.
(3) Strap
Using blue yarn,
Ch 3.
R1: Sc 2, starting in second ch from hook, turn.
R2-12: Ch 1, sc 2, turn.
Attach strap onto back of shield (NOT the embroidered one).
Glue gun (or sew) front of shield to back of shield.

Hylian shield attaches to Link’s arm like so:
SWORD
The sword consists of the (1) blade and (2) cross-guard.
(1) Blade
Cut off tip of chopstick (blade should be about 2.5 inches or 7 cm). Using scissors, carve notches
into the chopstick.
(2) Cross-guard (make 2)

Using grey yarn,
Ch 2
R2-8: Ch 1, sc 1, turn.
Finish off, weave in ends.
Glue gun 2 cross-guards together around the blade.
SHEATH
The sheath consists of the (1) tube and (2) handle.
(1) Tube
Using dark brown yarn,
R1: Ch 2, 6 sc in second ch from hook.

R2-13: Ch 6.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
(2) Handle
Using dark brown yarn,
Ch 2
R2-19: Ch 1, sc 1, turn.
Finish off, leave long end for sewing.
Sew both ends of handle to tube.
Place sword in sheath to see if it fits.
Now you’re made a Hylian shield, sword, and sheath for Link!
Pattern: Graduation Teddy
Posted 1 year ago
Make this amigurumi Graduation Teddy to help those special graduates in your life
commemorate their big milestone! Personalize this teddy by using their favourite colour,
year of graduation and school colours for the tassel!
Materials:
 Blue and black yarn
 Various shades of embroidery floss (brown for the nose, red for the scroll, purple and
yellow for the tassel)
 Yarn needle
 Fiberfill
 9 mm safety eyes
 White felt (for the scroll)
 Glue gun
 Black cardboard/hard paper (base of mortarboard)
Note: I worked in continuous rounds (vs. joined rounds). Feel free to follow along withmy
blog post to see step-by-step photos.
HEAD
R2: 2 sc in each sc around. (12 sts)
R8-13: Sc 42
R16: *Sc 3, dec 1* rep 6 times (24 sts)
Place 9 mm safety eyes. Begin stuffing head.
R17: *Sc 2, dec 1*, rep 6 times. (18 sts)
Stuff head firmly.
R19: *Sk 1 sc, sc 1*, rep 6 times. (6 sts)
EARS (make 2)
R4-6: Sc 18.
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Sew open end together. Sew ontop of head.
BODY
R5-9: Sc 24
Stuff firmly.
R12: *Sk 1 sc, sc 1*, rep 6 times. (6 sts)
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Sew body to head.
ARMS (make 2)
R2: Sc 9. (9 sts)
R4-6: Sc 6
Stuff firmly. Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Attach to body.
LEGS (make 2)
R4: Through back loops only, *Sc 1, dec 1*, rep 6 times. (12 sts)
R5: Sc 12
R6: *Sk 1 sc, sc 1*, rep 6 times (6 sts)
R7-8: Sc 6
Stuff firmly. Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Attach to bottom of body.
TAIL
R2: Sc 6
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Place tail in various positions in bottom-back of body to
see which placement is best (to give balance).
MORTARBOARD:
The bowtie consists of 4 parts: (1) Square board, (2) Skull cap, (3) Centre circle, (4)Tassel.
(1) Square board:
Using black yarn,
Ch 12
R1: Sc 11, starting in second ch from hook, turn. (11 sts)
R2-11: Sc 11, turn. (11 sts)
(2) Skull cap:
Using black yarn,
Ch 23, join first and last sts with sl st to form a ring.
R1-3: Sc 23.
Fasten off and leave long end for attaching to head.
(3) Centre Circle:
Using black yarn,
R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6 sts).
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing.
(4) Tassel:
See my tassel tutorial to make a personalized tassel using your graduate’s school colours!
Assembly of mortarboard:
 Sew centre circle ontop of the square board.
 Knot end of tassel around centre circle. Pull ends through square board to hide them.
 Measure and cut square piece of black cardboard/hard paper to fit square base. Glue
gun paper piece to the square board (to make it firm and preventing ends from curling
up/waving).
 Embroider year of graduation onto skull cap.
 Sew skull cap onto head, ensuring year of graduation is centered.
 Glue gun skull square board onto skull cap.
DIPLOMA SCROLL
Cut small piece of white felt and roll it up. Use glue gun to secure its shape. Tie red embroidery
floss around scroll in a bow. Attach to Graduation Teddy’s hand by sewing or glue gun.
This pattern is an original pattern by Stephanie of All About Ami (June 2011). Please do not claim
this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do
not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or
distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.
Pattern: Sweetheart Bunny

Posted 1 year ago
Make this adorable Sweetheart Bunny for your friends and family to show them your love
this Valentine’s Day! Or make one for yourself ^__^ This little sweetie with her dainty heart
and pretty bow will warm your heart!
Materials:
 white yarn (I used Patons Astra), pink yarn (old yarn from when I was a little girl- no
more label!), and red yarn (I used Patons Grace)
 2.00 mm crochet hook (used with white and pink yarn) and 1.25 mm crochet hook (used
with red yarn)
 yarn needle
 fiberfill
 white felt (for nose) and pink felt (for cheeks and lining of ears)
 7.5 mm safety eyes
 brown embroidery floss
 glue gun
 patterned fabric (for bow)
 cardboard (optional)
blog post HERE to see step-by-step photos.
HEAD
Using white yarn,
R1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6 sts)
R11-22: Sc 60
Place safety eyes and begin stuffing head.
Finish stuffing head.
Fasten off and weave in end. Cut circle out of white felt and sew nose with brown embroidery
floss. Cut two pink felt ovals and add as cheeks below eyes.
EARS (make 2)
Using white yarn,
R2-12: Sc 12
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Sew open end together. Add pink felt for lining. Sew
ontop of head.
DRESS
Using pink yarn,
R6: Through back loops only, Sc 30
R7-9: Sc 30
R11-12: Sc 24
R14: Sc 20
Fasten off. Reattach pink yarn onto crocheted piece with a slip stitch into any stitch.
R15: Ch 1, Sc 14 (15 sts, leaving a gap of 5 sts).
R16: Ch 1, turn. Sc 15.
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Insert cardboard circle onto bottom of base to secure
shape. Stuff firmly.
NECK [panel]
Using white yarn,
Ch 10
R1: Starting from second chain from hook, Sc 9.
R2-4: Ch 1. Turn. Sc 9.
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Fit white panel into pink dress so that white part is seen in
the 5 stitch gap. Sew/glue into place. Use white yarn to attach panel portion onto head. Use pink
yarn to attach dress portion onto head.
ARMS (make 2)
Using white yarn,
R2-7: Sc 6
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Attach to sides of body.
LEGS (make 2)
Using white yarn,
R2-6: Sc 6
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Attach to bottom of dress.
HEART
Pattern used with permission from Mandy of Little Birdie Secrets. Please see her heart blog
post here and check out her very helpful video here to see her in action crocheting this heart! I love
using these hearts to adorn cards and scrapbook pages too!
Using red yarn and 1.25 mm crochet hook and working ALL stitches in first chain,
Ch 4. Work 3 triple crochet (tc) into first chain, 3 dc, ch 1, 1 tc, ch 1, 3 dc, 3 tc. Ch 3, sl stitch into
center and FO. Sew/glue heart onto dress.
BOW
Cut rectangular piece of fabric and fold edges inward. Pinch the middle together and sew/glue in
place. Wrap middle with strip of fabric. Sew/glue onto one ear.
Alternatively, you can crochet a bow for your bunny. Learn how to crochet bows by following the
videos here or here.
Hope this bunny adds some sweetness to your day :) Don’t forget to send me photos of your
finished work by e-mailing me (all_about_ami@hotmail.com), tweeting me, or posting on
my facebook page! Happy crocheting, and have a Happy Valentine’s Day, my lovelies :)
This pattern is an original pattern by Stephanie of All About Ami (February 2012). Please do not
Pattern: Snuggles the Penguin

Posted 1 year ago
Who can resist Snuggles the Penguin with his sweet face all bundled up in his removable
scarf? Crochet your very own and he’ll make a great friend every season of the year!
Materials:
 turquoise (Loops & Threads Impeccable worsted in “Aqua”), white (Red Heart Super
Saver Regular in “White”) , yellow (Red Heart Super Saver) and red yarn (Vanna’s
Choice in “Antique Rose”) [all 4-ply medium weight]
 yarn needle
 fiberfill
 pink felt (for cheeks)
 glue gun
blog post here to see step-by-step photos.
BELLY
Using white yarn,
Chain 3
R12-13: Sc 80
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing.
HEAD/BODY
Using turquoise yarn,
Ch 7
R1: Starting from second chain from hook, Sc 6. Turn and Sc 6 (we are making an oval by
R8: Sc 48
R10: Sc 54
R12: Sc 60
R14-25: Sc 66
Begin sewing top and side parts of white belly onto body. Position 12 mm safety eyes so that they
overlap the turquoise and white part. Stuff body.
R32: *Sc 3, dec 1* rep 6 times (24 sts)
Finish stuffing body.
R35: *Dec 1*, rep 6 times. (6 sts)
Add fiberfill between body and white belly. Sew remainder of bottom of belly onto body.
Details: Cut two pink felt ovals and add as cheeks below eyes.
BEAK
Using yellow yarn,
Chain 5
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Sew onto Penguin’s face, halfway on turquoise body and
halfway on white belly.
SCARF
Using red yarn,
Ch 13, join with sl st to form a ring.
R1: Sc around (13 sts)
R2-5: Sc 13
Switch to white yarn,
R6-10: Sc 13
Alternate between red and white yarn for every five rows until R105. Keep transition of colour on
inside of scarf that will not be visible (some extra stitches may be required after some rows). Close
up each open end of scarf so hollow centre is not visible. Wrap the scarf around the penguin and
sew overlapping part together, allowing scarf to be removable.
ARMS (make 2)
Using turqouise yarn,
R1: 6 sc in Magic Ring. (6 sts)
R3: Sc 12
R5-6: Sc 18
R8-9: Sc 12
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. DO NOT STUFF. Sew open end together. Attach onto
sides of body below scarf.
Snuggles is all ready for his snowball fight! If you are making Snuggles as a gift, try making a
matching Knotted Headband with the left-over yarn from the scarf! Snuggles the Penguin is also
available as a charm through Oborocharms’ shop which can be found here. Don’t forget to send
me photos through facebook, twitter and e-mail! Have lots of fun making Snuggles :)
This pattern is an original pattern by Stephanie of All About Ami (March 2012). Please do not claim
this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do
not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or
distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.
Pattern: Snake
Posted 2 months ago
It’s the Year of the Snake this year! Crochet this cute, friendly snake complete with fangs,
a slithery tongue and scaled body to celebrate! Snakes typically have a bad rap as sinister
villains, but this little guy is determined to break the stereotype :)
Materials:
 green yarn (I used Lion Brand Cotton-Ease Yarn in ‘Lime’)
 yarn needle
 fiberfill
 beige felt (for scaled body), red felt (for tongue), white felt (for fangs)
 black embroidery floss (for nose), tan embroidery floss (for scaled body)
 glue gun
Note: I worked in continuous rounds (vs. joined rounds).
***PLEASE follow along with my blog post HERE to read about the background story of
this Snake and to see more step-by-step photos!!!***
HEAD
[We are working from the bottom of the head to the top of the head in order to get a flat base.]
Using green yarn,
Chain 5
R1: Starting from second chain from hook, Sc 3. 3 sc in next sc (which is the first ch). Turn and Sc
3. 3 sc in next sc (this is the fifth chain). [We are making an oval by crocheting around the
chain]. (12 sts)
R2: Sc 4, 2 sc in next sc, Sc 5, 2 sc in next sc, Sc 1. (14 sts)
R7-13: Sc 42
Position safety eyes and embroider nose on short side of oval. Nose is embroidered by making two
“L” shapes.

R15: Sc 36
Cut oval shape out of cardboard and place on bottom of head. Begin stuffing head.

Stuff head firmly.
BODY
Using green yarn,

Chain 9
R1: Starting from second chain from hook, Sc 7. 3 sc in next sc (which is the first ch). Turn and Sc
7. 3 sc in next sc (this is the 9th chain). [We are making an oval by crocheting around the
chain]. (20 sts)
R3-R11: Sc 24
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Stuff body firmly. Attach body to head, aligning back of
body to back of head so that body is leaning back slightly.
TAIL
Overall, we will be crocheting the wide part of the tail (in the shape of an oval) bypicking up
stitches from the back of the body and then crocheting towards the tip. See this video HERE to
learn how to pick up stitches. The tail should appear like a continuation of the body and be placed
approximately where the faded oval is:
We will be crocheting the bottom “U” shape of the tail first:
Using green yarn,

R1: Hold Snake’s head and body so that the back is facing towards you. Starting frombottom right
side, pick up a stitch. Chain 1. Pick up 7 more stitches along bottom row. Ensure that Snake will
stand by himself at this point. (8 sts)
***I picked up the first stitch between Rounds 3 and 4 of the body. Choose an appropriate first
stitch so that the 8 sts of Row 1 are centered along the back of the body.
R2: Sl stitch to one stitch above and slightly left. Turn and sc 8. (8 sts)
R3: Sl stitch to one stitch above and slightly right. Turn and sc 8. (8 sts).
R4: Sl stitch to one stitch above and slightly right. Turn and sc 8. (8 sts).
R5: Sl stitch to one stitch above and slightly left. Turn and sc 8. Sc 1 above (left side of oval). Sc 4
by picking up stitches along top of oval. Sc 1 down (right side of oval). (14 sts)
R6-7: Sc 14 (14 sts)
Stuff tail lightly.
R11: Sc 6 (6 sts)

Adding details:
- Cut out below shape from beige felt. Drape it across Snake`s body and tail to make sure it is the
correct length. Sew felt piece onto body. Add lines of tan embroidery floss down the felt piece for
the scaled body.
- To make the fangs, pinch a corner of white felt together. Add a drop of glue from a glue gun to
hold the sides together. Snip the corner off. Make 2 fangs.
- Cut out a long narrow piece of red felt and snip a “v” at the tip for the tongue. Glue two white
fangs and red tongue in place.
Have a very Happy Chinese New Year, and have fun making this friendly little snake :) He would
make a perfect gift for expectant mothers whose babies will be born in the Year of the Snake, or for
friends who were born in the Year of the Snake as well! Once again, please check out my full blog
post HERE to read about how this little Snake came to be and to see more pics of him! Post your
finished Snake pics on my Facebook page,Twitter, Instagram or e-mail them to me
(all_about_ami@hotmail.com) so we can all enjoy them :)
This pattern is an original pattern by Stephanie of All About Ami (February 2013). Please do not
Fuzzy white bear

Posted 2 years ago
I used to have a teddy bear collection when I was younger, and my sister Ashley and I
would dream up elaborate storylines with these bears as our cast. And so, I was excited to
work on my very first hand-made teddy bear, one of many to come.
I scoured the internet for pictures of amigurumi teddy bears, and I saw many cute images
of fuzzy ones! I researched into how they got their teddy bears so fuzzy, and I found this
great tutorial by Roxycraft in which she explains how to make brushed amigurumi with a
dog slicker brush.
I picked up some white yarn from Walmart that I knew would be easy to fuzz up, and I
started crocheting my bear, surprisingly using this pattern on Ana Paula Rimoli’s blogeven
though the finished products look nothing alike! You can see what a difference the yarn,
the placement of the limbs and the nose can make even when you use the same pattern. I
made the feet a bit bigger so that he could sit, and we also decided to make our bear sad
by omitting the smile.
I started off by crocheting a round ball for the head. Ryan then helped me fuzz up the yarn
by brushing it vigorously with a dog slicker brush that we picked up from Walmart.
We fuzzed up the body and the ears and then got ready for assembly! His limbs look so
little, hey?
I attached the ears, the body, the arms, and then the legs.
And here he is all complete!

So cute and fuzzy in the palm of my hand!
Can you spot him? He’s pretty tiny sitting in this massive chair. Hope no one sits on him!
And one last pic looking sad atop the sugar jar.
I love using this new technique of brushing up the amigurumi to give them fur. It gives such
a nice effect! I’m currently working on a Valentine Teddy that also has brushed fur, and
he’s turning out pretty cute! I’ll be posting about him shortly since Valentine’s Day is
coming up! Stay tuned :)
by Ruth Homrighaus
Meet Sheldon the

Turtle. A fairly quick
knit, he makes an
excellent last-minute
holiday gift or a
fabulous baby shower
present.
Knit in an inexpensive
cotton/modal blend,
he is soft but also
practical: he can be
machine washed and
dried, and because his
body and shell are
separate, he comes
apart for laundry
journeys.
photos: Ruth Homrighaus
SIZE
Sheldon-size
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Width: Approx. 6 inches from paw to paw
Length: Approx. 9 inches
MATERIALS
Knit Picks Shine Sport [60% pima cotton, 40% modal; 110 yd per 50g skein]; 1 skein each color
[MC] Green Apple
[CC] Grass
1 set US #3/3.25mm double-point needles

1 set US #4/3.5mm straight needles
1 US #D/3 / 3.25mm crochet hook
1 stitch marker
Tapestry needle 
Two 9mm black acrylic safety eyes with plastic washers 
Polyester stuffing or cotton batting
GAUGE
25 sts/34 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on US #4/3.5mm needles
PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]
Achieving the recommended gauge is not crucial for this project. However, it is desirable to knit
the pieces -- particularly the body -- tightly enough that the stuffing is not visible when the knitted
fabric is slightly stretched. This will require you to get somewhere in the neighborhood of the
given gauge, even if this means going down a needle size or two.
The head and body are knit in one piece on double-pointed needles, with four limbs knit separately
and sewn on. The upper shell is knit in two pieces, then a third panel is worked separately with
holes for the limbs, and is attached to the shell top with an I-Cord edging.
Because the shell must stretch over the turtle's body and attach to the panel underneath, it is
important not to overstuff the shell. Light padding is sufficient to give the desired shape.
Directions are given for using stitch markers to mark the beginning of each round, but they are
not strictly necessary. If you prefer, a split ring marker or safety pin may be placed in the work to
mark the beginning of the round.
Instructions for the Backward Loop Cast On can be found here.
Instructions for basic crochet stitches can be found here.
DIRECTIONS
Body
The body is knit from the
tail to the head.
Using MC and double-point

needles, CO 6 stitches.
Divide sts evenly between
three needles. Place
marker and join to begin
working in the round,
being careful not to twist.
Round 1: [Kfb] in each st.

12 sts.
Round 2: K all sts.
Round 3: [Kfb, k1] twice,
[kfb] twice, [k1, kfb]
twice, k2. 18 sts.
Round 4: K all sts.
Round 5: [Kfb, k2] six
times. 24 sts.
Rounds 6-9: K all sts.
Round 10: [Kfb, k3] twice,
kfb, k4, [kfb, k3] twice,
kfb, k2. 30 sts.
Round 11: K all sts.
Round 12: [Kfb, k4] twice, kfb, k6, [kfb, k4] twice, kfb, k2. 36 sts.
Round 14: [Kfb, k5] twice, kfb, k8, [kfb, k5] twice, kfb, k2. 42 sts.
Round 19: K8, ssk, k20, k2tog, k10. 40 sts.
Even-numbered rounds 20-38: K all sts.
Round 35: K2tog, k6, ssk, k4, k2tog, k6, ssk, k2. 22 sts.
Round 39: K2tog, k4, ssk, k2tog, k4, ssk, k2. 14 sts.
Round 46: Kfb, k2, kfb, k1, [kfb] twice, k1, [kfb, k2] twice. 20 sts.
Odd-numbered rounds 47-59: K all sts.
Round 48: Kfb, k3, [kfb, k2] three times, kfb, k3, kfb, k2. 26 sts.
Round 50: [Kfb, k4, kfb, k3] twice, kfb, k4, kfb, k2. 32 sts.
Round 52: Kfb, k5, kfb, k16, kfb, k5, kfb, k2. 36 sts.
Odd-numbered rounds 67-77. K all sts.
Round 76: K2tog, k4, ssk, k3, ssk, k4, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k4, ssk, k2. 26 sts.
Round 78: K2tog, k3, ssk, k2, ssk, k2, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k3, ssk, k2. 20 sts.
At this point, cut off all but 1-2 inches of the CO tail, and pull the yarn end into the body with the
crochet hook. Attach safety eyes to head, using diagram as a placement guide, and stuff the body
to desired firmness to almost the top of the head. Take care to stuff the neck particularly firmly so
that the head does not flop around.
Round 80: K2tog, k2, ssk, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k2, ssk, k2. 14 sts.
Round 84: K2tog, ssk, k2tog, ssk, k2. 6 sts.
Finish stuffing head to the top. Stuffing firmly all the way to the tip of the "mouth" helps to ensure
that the face is not too pointy.
Break yarn. Using tapestry needle, thread yarn tail through all 6 stitches, beginning with first
k2tog and ending with the last st you knit. Pull tightly to close, tie a knot near the opening, cut off
all but 1-2 inches of the yarn tail, and use the crochet hook to pull it into the body.
Limbs (Make 4)
Using MC and double-point needles, CO 12 sts, leaving a tail at least 12 inches long. Divide sts
evenly between three needles. Place marker and join to begin working in the round, being careful
not to twist.
Round 15: [Kfb, k5] twice. 14 sts.
Round 21: [K2tog] 7 times.
Break yarn. Using tapestry needle, thread yarn tail through all 7 stitches, beginning with first
k2tog and ending with the last st you knit. Pull tightly to close. Push needle through opening and
turn limb inside out. Make small knot inside and trim yarn end. Turn right side out.
Shell
Note: When working the shell, the color not in use may be carried loosely up the side of the work,
as it will not show once the turtle is completed.
Using MC and straight needles, CO 12 sts.
Rows 1-2: K all sts.
Row 3 [RS]: Join CC. Kfb, sl 2, k6, sl 2, k1. 13 sts.
Row 4 [WS]: Pfb, sl 2, p6, sl 2, p2. 14 sts.
Row 5 [RS]: Kfb, k1, sl 2, k6, sl 2, k2. 15 sts.
Row 6 [WS]: Pfb, p1, sl 2, p6, sl 2, p3. 16 sts.
Row 7 [RS]: Kfb, k2, sl 2, k6, sl 2, k3. 17 sts.
Row 8 [WS]: Pfb, p2, sl 2, p6, sl 2, p4. 18 sts.
Switch to MC.
Rows 9-10: Kfb, k to end. 20 sts when Row 10 is complete.
Switch to CC.
Row 11 [RS]: Kfb, [sl 2, k6] twice, sl 2, k1. 21 sts.
Row 12 [WS]: Pfb, [sl 2, p6] twice, sl 2, p2. 22 sts.
Row 13 [RS]: Kfb, k1, [sl 2, k6] twice, sl 2, k2. 23 sts.
Row 14 [WS]: Pfb, p1, [sl 2, p6] twice, sl 2, p3. 24 sts.
Row 15 [RS]: Kfb, k2, [sl 2, k6] twice, sl 2, k3. 25 sts.
Row 16 [WS]: Pfb, p2, [sl 2, p6] twice, sl 2, p4. 26 sts.
Switch to MC.
Switch to CC.
Row 19 [RS]: Kfb, [sl 2, k6] three times, sl 2, k1. 29 sts.
Row 20 [WS]: Pfb, [sl 2, p6] three times, sl 2, p2. 30 sts.
Row 21 [RS]: Kfb, k1, [sl 2, k6] three times, sl 2, k2. 31 sts.
Row 22 [WS]: Pfb, p1, [sl 2, p6] three times, sl 2, p3. 32 sts.
Row 23 [RS]: Kfb, k2, [sl 2, k6] three times, sl 2, k3. 33 sts.
Row 24 [WS]: Pfb, p2, [sl 2, p6] three times, sl 2, p4. 34 sts.
Switch to MC.
Switch to CC.
Row 27 [RS]: K1, sl 2, [k6, sl 2] four times, k1.
Row 28 [WS]: P1, [sl 2, p6] four times, sl 2, p1.
Rows 29-32: Repeat rows 27- 28 twice.
Switch to MC.
Rows 33-34: K all sts.
Switch to CC.
Row 35 [RS]: K2tog, k3, sl 2, [k6, sl 2] three times, k5. 35 sts.
Row 36 [WS]: P2tog, p3, sl 2, [p6, sl 2] three times, p4. 34 sts.
Row 37 [RS]: K2tog, k2, sl 2 [k6, sl 2] three times, k4. 33 sts.
Row 39 [RS]: K2tog, k1, sl 2, [k6, sl 2] three times, k3. 31 sts.
Switch to MC.
Rows 41-42: K2tog, k to end. 28 sts when Row 42 is complete.
Switch to CC.
Row 43 [RS]: K2tog, k3, sl 2, [k6, sl 2] twice, k5. 27 sts.
Row 44 [WS]: P2tog, p3, sl 2, [p6, sl 2] twice, p4. 26 sts.
Row 45 [RS]: K2tog, k2, sl 2 [k6, sl 2] twice, k4. 25 sts.
Row 47 [RS]: K2tog, k1, sl 2, [k6, sl 2] twice, k3. 23 sts.
Switch to MC.
Switch to CC.
Row 51 [RS]: K2tog, k3, sl 2, k6, sl 2, k5. 19 sts.
Row 52 [WS]: P2tog, p3, sl 2, p6, sl 2, p4. 18 sts.
Switch to MC.
Row 59 [RS]: BO all sts.
Break yarn and weave in
ends on WS.
Shell Bottom
Using CC and straight
needles, CO 10 sts.
Odd-numbered Rows 1-
21[RS]: K1, kfb, k to end.
Even-numbered Rows 2-
20 [WS]: P1, pfb, p to end.
31 sts when Row 21 is
complete.
Even-numbered Rows 22-

42 [WS]: P1, p2tog, p to
end.
Odd-numbered Rows 23-
41 [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to
end.
10 sts when Row 42 is
complete.

Break yarn and weave in
ends on WS. Using a
length of CC yarn and
tapestry needle and
holding shell and shell
bottom with WS together, attach shell bottom to shell top, centering shell bottom a few stitches in
from the edge all the way around. Use any seaming method you like, as long as it is invisible on
the RS and will not allow the stuffing to escape; this seam will not show. When seam is three-
quarters complete, stuff the shell lightly. Complete seam, tie a small knot, break yarn, and hide
ends using crochet hook or tapestry needle.
Shell Attachment Panel

Using MC and straight needles, CO 16 sts.
Odd-numbered Rows 1-9 [RS]: K1, kfb, k to end.
Even-numbered Rows 2-8 [WS]: P1, pfb, p to end.
25 sts when Row 9 is complete.
Row 10 [WS]: BO 6 sts, p to end. 19 sts.

Row 11 [RS]: BO 6 sts, k to end. 13 sts.
Row 12 [WS]: P all sts.
Row 13 [RS]: K all sts, CO 8 sts using backward loop method. 21 sts.
Row 14 [WS]: P all sts, CO 8 sts using backward loop method. 29 sts.
Row 15 [RS]: K all sts.
Row 16 [WS]: P1, pfb, p to end. 30 sts.
Row 17 [RS]: K1, kfb, k to end. 31 sts.
Row 18 [WS]: P1, pfb, p to end. 32 sts.
Row 19 [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to end. 31 sts.
Row 20 [WS]: P1, p2tog, p to end. 30 sts.
Row 21 [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to end. 29 sts.
Row 22 [WS]: BO 8 sts, p to end. 21 sts.
Row 23 [RS]: BO 8 sts, k to end. 13 sts.
Row 24 [WS]: P all sts.
Row 25 [RS]: K all sts, CO 6 sts using backward loop method. 19 sts.
Row 26 [WS]: P all sts, CO 6 sts using backward loop method. 25 sts.
Row 27 [RS]: K all sts.
Even-numbered Rows 28-36 [WS]: P1, p2tog, p to end.
Odd-numbered Rows 29-35 [RS]: K1, k2tog, k to end. sts.
16 sts when Row 36 is complete.

Insert crochet hook into last st and work single crochet along edge of piece to the first leg hole;
fold piece so that corners of leg hole meet, and continue to work single crochet around edge of
piece, joining corners of remaining leg holes in the same way. You will have a little bowl-shaped
piece of knitting with four leg holes.
Work a second round of single crochet, break yarn, draw through last st and pull tight. Weave in
end on WS.
FINISHING
Using CC and two double-point needles, connect the shell to the belly piece using a four-stitch
attached I-Cord as follows:
CO 4 sts. Slide sts to other end of dpn. Pulling yarn tightly across back of sts on needle, k3, sl 1.
Line up shell and attachment panel with WS together, holding attachment panel facing you.
Beginning on the top left side of the attachment panel, pick up and knit one stitch through the
edges of both pieces held together.
Note: The st you want on the attachment panel is the crocheted st directly above the last of the
16 bound-off sts. On the shell, you want to insert the needle into the MC edge st from the row
that forms the base of the final row of "cells" on the shell, which is made up of one full cell and
two partial cells. The I-Cord edging looks best if you pick up only the inside half of the st from
both pieces rather than the entire st.
Pass the slipped stitch over the picked-up stitch.
*Slide sts to the other end of the dpn. Pulling yarn tight across the back, K3, sl picked-up st. Pick
up and knit next st from the joined pieces and pass slipped st over.* Repeat from * to *, working
your way around the shell. Be sure to center the area between the two limb openings on each side
over the widest part of the shell, and the 16 bound-off sts along the bottom over the bottom row
of cells (two partial cells and one whole cell). This might require you to skip a row now and then
when picking up sts from the shell. When you have worked about two-thirds of the way around,
insert the turtle body into the shell to check the fit, and determine how large the neck opening
should be. When you reach the bottom of the final row of cells on the right side of the turtle
directly across from where you began working I-Cord (or, if your turtle body is too large to
accommodate such a small opening, when the neck opening is as small as it can be), continue I-
Cord but pick up stitches through the shell only. Work to the point where you began, break yarn,
thread needle and pull through all 4 sts. Sew ends of I-Cord together and weave in ends
underneath the edging, where they will be inconspicuous.
Attach Limbs
Stuff the limbs, being sure to stuff the ends quite firmly and the tops more lightly. Sew the limbs
to the body.
To do this, thread the tapestry needle with the tail left from casting on. Position the limb against
the body, using the diagram as a placement guide and checking placement against the fit of your
turtle body inside the shell. Run the needle under the upside-down "V" of a stitch on the turtle
body and then under a knitted "V" on the limb. Continue around until the limb is completely
attached. You may need to use your crochet hook or needle to tighten or loosen the sts you have
made in order to improve their appearance. Before finishing, recheck that the limb will fit through
its opening properly when the turtle is inserted into the shell. Tie an inconspicuous knot with the
remaining yarn, cut a 1-inch tail, and use the crochet hook to pull it into the body.
Insert Sheldon into his shell and admire your work!
Baby Snow Dragon

Jul 16, 2008 posted by MarjorieCrochets
Views: 105,766
Comments: 19
Average rating:
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Filed under: General, Toys & Games
Author
Marjorie Jones
Introduction
This was one of my very first amigurumi pattterns, inspired by my love of dragons, and a result
of my not being able to find an easy pattern for a small crocheted dragon.
This pattern is also one of my most popular, and I am delighted to find it is still going strong.
There are baby dragons all over the world now, with my pattern translated into french, german
and who knows what other languages! I originally posted it on Crochetville.org.
Materials List
Bulky yarn (I used Bernat Softee Chunky for my baby snow dragon) But reall, any yarn can be
used for this pattern, just adjust your hook size accordingly.
"G" hook
tapestry or darning needle to sew pieces together
stitch markers (or a piece of yarn or thread to mark ends of rounds)
two post eyes or buttons, or for young children, eyes could be embroidered on
fiberfill or stuffing material
Finished Size
Depends on the yarn and hook size used.
Gauge
Not important.
Notes
Abbreviations used:
sc = single crochet
st = stitch
ss = slip stitch
inc = increase (do 2 single crochets in one stitch)
dec = decrease ( insert hook into first stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, insert hook into the next
stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through the two loops on your hook)
The Pattern
Head
As amigurumi is made in spirals, do not join rounds. Use a stitch marker or a piece of thread or
yarn to mark the end of your rounds.
Start 6 sc in a magic ring. (6 sc)

Rnd 2: 2 sc (inc) in each st around (12 sc)
Rnd 3 -6 : work even, no inc or dec (12 sc)
Rnd 7: 2 sc (inc) in each of the first 6 st, sc in each of remaining 6 sc (18 sc) (This starts to form
the forehead ridge)
Rnd 8: sc in each of the first 8 st, 2 sc (inc) in the next 2 st, sc in the remaining 8 st (20 sc)
Rnd 12: *sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next 3 st* repeat from * to * around (16 sc)
Rnd 13:*sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next 2 st* repeat from * to * around (12 sc)
Rnd 14: *sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next st* repeat from * to * around (8 sc)
ss in next st and fasten off, leaving a long tail for closing and sewing.
BODY

Rnd 3 -5 : work even, no inc or dec (8 sc)
Rnd 6: *1 sc in first st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (12 sc)
Rnd 9: *1 sc in first 2 st, 2 sc (inc) in third st* repeat from * to * around. (16 sc)
Rnd 10:*1 sc in first 3 st, 2 sc (inc) in fourth st* repeat from * to * around. (20 sc)
Rnd 11: *1 sc in first 4 st, 2 sc (inc) in fifth st* repeat from * to * around. (24 sc)
Rnd 12: *1 sc in first 5 st, 2 sc (inc) in sixth st* repeat from * to * around. (28 sc)
Rnd 17: *sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next 5 st* repeat from * to * around ( 24 sc)
Rnd 19:*sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next 3 st* repeat from * to * around ( 16 sc)
Rnd 21: *sc first 2 st together (dec)* repeat from * to * around. (6 sc) ss in next st and fasten off,
leaving a long tail for closing and sewing.
TAIL
Start 3 sc in a magic ring (3 sc)

Rnd 3: work even, no inc or dec (6 sc)
Rnd 6: *1 sc in first 2 st, 2 sc (inc) in second st* repeat from * to * around. (12 sc)
Rnd 13 - 15: work even, no inc or dec (21 sc) At the end of rnd 15, ss in next st and fasten off,
leaving a long tail for sewing.
FEET (Make 2)

Rnd 7: *sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next st* repeat from * to * around (8 sc)
Rnd 8: work even, no inc or dec. (8 sc) ss in next st, and fasten off, leaving a long tail for closing
and sewing.
ARMS (Make 2)

Rnd 10: *sc first 2 st together (dec), sc in the next 2 st* repeat from * to * around (6 sc) ss in
next st and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
EARS AND SPINES (Make 5)

Rnd 5: work even, no inc or dec (10 sc) ss in next st, and fasten off, leaving a long tail for
closing and sewing.
Weave long tail through the last row of two of these pieces and gather, these are the ears.
The other 3 pieces fold flat (to look like a triangle) and are sewn on the back for the spines.
EYELIDS (Make 2)
6 sc in a magic ring. This is the exception to working in spirals. At the end of this round, chain
one, and turn
Rnd 2: sc in each st around (6 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing
ASSEMBLY DIRECTIONS:
It's easiest for me to pin my body parts into place before sewing them, to make sure they're
balanced and in the correct position.
Sew eye lids into place on the head, then attach eyes. Stuff head, and weave yarn through last
row of stitches in the back of the head, gathering to close. (I run the yarn down the back of the
head to use to sew the head to the neck) Set aside.
Stuff body and neck. Weave yarn through last row of stitches on the bottom of the body,
gathering to close. Fasten off, and weave in end.
Stuff feet, and weave yarn though the last row of stitches to gather closed. Use remaining yarn
to attach feet to the bottom of the body.
Stuff tail, position on the back of the body, and sew into place.
Stuff only the bottom of the arms, and sew into place on the body. (I positioned them folded
across the belly of my dragon to pose him, and sewed them into place.)
Sew head onto body. Position ears on head and sew into place.
Sew spines in a line down the back of the dragon.
A good tutorial for making a magic ring can be found here:
http://crochetme.com/Dec_Jan_0405/reads_round.html
If you're not comfortable with using a magic ring, you can also start with the traditional method
(chain two and work appropriate numbers of sc into second chain from the hook) but I find it
leaves too big a hole for my tastes.
Tutorial on assembly can be found here:
http://www.quizilla.com/users/MarjorieCrochets/journal/
Enjoy your baby dragon!
Mini Ami Octopus Take 2

As promised, here is the updated pattern for my Mini Octopus's. In this version I have added
eye placement instructions and a new way to make the tentacles all in one piece. If you would
like the old version (making tentacles individually) please see this page :)
Mini Ami Octopus
You Will Need:

. Crochet Hook (I used 3.5mm [E]. This will keep your stitches nice and tight and the tentacles
curly)
. Small Amount Of Double Knit or Light Worsted Weight Yarn
. 7mm Safety Eyes
. Stitch Markers Or Piece Of Scrap Yarn
. Yarn/Embroidery Needle
. Poly-fill Or Other Stuffing
. Button (Optional)
Abbreviations
. Ch - Chain Stitch
. Sc - Single Crochet
. Hdc – Half Double Crochet
. St/Sts - Stitch/Stitches
. Slst - Slip Stitch
. Inc (Increase) - 2 Sc into 1 St
. Dec (Decrease) – 1 Sc across 2 Sts
. ** - Marks a group of stitches to be repeated until the round is completed
Gauge
No gauge, just keep your stitches nice and tight to avoid gaps in your work
Finished Size
1 3/4’’ Tall by 3’’ Wide (approx) using a 3.5mm (E) hook
Other Info
. As this is amigurumi, work in continuous rounds; in a spiral. Don’t join at the end of a row; just
keep going
. Use stitch markers or a piece of scrap yarn to mark the start of every round. Replace at the
start of the next round as you go along. This will help you keep track of where you started, and
saves a lot of time if things go wrong!
. Although I am English, I write my patterns in American terms, so Sc means Single Crochet; Dc
means Double Crochet etc.
. The number at the end of each round is the number of stitches you should now have
. I strongly recommend using a small hook i.e.- 3.5mm (E), to keep the proportions of the toy as
they are in the pictures
Body
1. Ch2, Sc 6 into 2nd Ch from hook, or Magic Ring 6 (6)
2. Inc around (12)
3. *Sc, Inc* around (18)
4. *Sc 2, Inc* around (24)
5. Sc around (24)
6. *Sc 3, Inc* around (30)
7-11. Sc around (30) *Mark End Of Row 9 For Shy Looking Eye Placement :)*
12. *Sc 3, Dec* around (24)
*Add Eyes Now*
13. Dec around (12)
*Stuff Now*
14. Dec around (6)

*Bind off, weave in end*
Tentacles
1. Ch2, Sc 8 into 2nd Ch from hook, or Magic Ring 8 (8). Join with a Slst to beginning Sc.
2. Ch 14
3. HDC 2 in 2nd Ch from hook, and HDC 3x in each Ch across to beginning Ch. Slst to next Sc
in circle.
Repeat from Round 2, 7 more times, to make 8 tentacles.
It's gonna get a bit tight squeezing them HDC's over the SC's, but they will all fit in!
If you wanted, say, 7 tentacles instead, just swap the 8 in the beginning round for a 7 and
repeat Round 2 and 3, 7 times.
Assembly
. Sew the tentacle piece to the bottom of the body.
. Add little button (if required). I've also seen these octopus's with Mini Top Hats and even tiny
flowers instead of a button :)
Ta-Da!
I hope them instructions were abit easier than the last ones. I find it saves alot of time not
having to sew all the tentacles on :)
Have fun!
Posted by Esshaych at 15:00
homepage > home > craft ideas
Craft Project: Knitted Toy Elephant

Create this adorable animal for your favorite little one
By Sarah Keen
Share
Photo by: Rebecca Mothersole/Watson-Guptill
Special Offer
Project excerpted from Knitted Wild Animals.
Elephants take dust or mud baths to clean themselves and to protect their skin from the
sun, wind, and insects. Their skin is so sensitive that they can even feel a fly landing on it!
Elephants love playing in water and drink around 30 gallons of it every day.
What you’ll need
Measurement
Elephant measures 9 1⁄2in (24cm) in height
Materials
Any light worsted weight yarn:
350yd (1 3⁄4oz/100g) gray (A)
70yd (3⁄4oz/20g) white (B)
Scraps of black for features
Note: amounts are generous but approximate
A pair of size 3 U.S. (3.25mm) needles
Polyester fiberfill
Straight pins
Tweezers for stuffing small parts (optional)
Gauge
26 sts x 34 rows measure 4in (10cm) square over Stockinette st using 3.25mm needles
before stuffing
Abbreviations
Click her for abbreviations.
How to make Elephant
Body (make 2 pieces)

Beg at lower edge using the thumb method and A, cast on 35 sts.
First and next 4 foll alt rows: P.
Inc row: K10, m1, k15, m1, k10 (37 sts).
Inc row: K11, m1, k15, m1, k11 (39 sts).
Inc row: K12, m1, k15, m1, k12 (41 sts).
Inc row: K13, m1, k15, m1, k13 (43 sts).
Inc row: K14, m1, k15, m1, k14 (45 sts).
Beg with a p row, work in St st for 11 rows.
Dec row: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog tbl.
Next row: P.
Rep last 2 rows 12 more times (19 sts).
Bind off.
Base
Using the thumb method and A, cast on 20 sts.
First row: P.
Inc row: K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1.
Rep first 2 rows 5 more times (32 sts).
Next row: P.
Bind off.
Hind legs (make 2)

Dec row: (K2, k2tog) to end (24 sts).
Next and next foll alt row: P
Dec row: (K2tog) to end (8 sts).
Forelegs (make 2)
Dec row: (k2tog) 3 times, k2, (k2tog) 6 times, k2, (k2tog) 3 times (16 sts).
P 1 row.
Bind off.
Head
Beg at back using the thumb method and A, cast on 12 sts.
Inc row: (Inc) to end (24 sts).
Inc row: (K3, inc) to end (30 sts).
Next row: P50, turn.
Next row: S1k, k35, turn.
Next row: S1p, p to end.
Next row: P.
Next 2 rows: K.
Next row: P.
Next 3 rows: K.
Rep last 4 rows 8 more times.
P 1 row.
Dec row: K2, (k2tog) 4 times, k2, (k2tog) 4 times, k2 (14 sts).
Cast off p-wise.
Ears
Side 1 (make 2 pieces)
Inc row: K1, m1, k8, m1, k6, m1, k1 (19 sts).
Inc row: K10, m1, k9 (20 sts).
Inc row: K10, m1, k10 (21 sts).
Inc row: K10, m1, k11 (22 sts.
Inc row: K10, m1, k12 (23 sts).
Inc row: K10, m1, k13 (24 sts).
Inc row: K10, m1, k14 (25 sts).
Inc row: K10, m1, k15 (26 sts).
Shape next row: K2tog, k8, m1, k14, k2tog tbl (25 sts).
Dec row: P2tog tbl, p to last 2 sts, p2tog (21 sts).
Bind off.
Side 2 (make 2 pieces)
Inc row: K1, m1, k6, m1, k8, m1 k1 (19 sts).
Inc row: K9, m1, k10 (20 sts).
Inc row: K10, m1, k10 (21 sts).
Inc row: K11, m1, k10 (22 sts).
Inc row: K12, m1, k10 (23 sts).
Inc row: K13, m1, k10 (24 sts).
Inc row: K14, m1, k10 (25 sts).
Inc row: K15, m1, k10 (26 sts).
Dec row: P2tog tbl, p to last 2 sts, p2tog (21 sts).
Bind off.
Tusks (make 2)
Using the thumb method and B, cast on 4 sts.
Inc row: P this row increasing p-wise into first and last st.
Inc row: K this row increasing k-wise into first and last st.
Rep last 2 rows once (12 sts).
Beg with a p row, work in St st for 16 rows decreasing one st at each end of 4th and every
foll 4th row (4 sts).
P 1 row.
Thread yarn through sts, pull tight and secure.
Assembly
Body
Place two halves of body together, matching all edges and join row-ends. Stuff body,
leaving neck and lower edge open.
Base
Pin base to lower edge of body and sew base to body all the way around, adding more
stuffing to base if needed.
Hind legs
Join row-ends of hind legs and stuff. Stand body on flat surface and position legs wide
apart, pin and sew cast-on sts of legs to body all the way around.
Forelegs
Fold bound-off sts in half and whipstitch. Join row-ends and stuff. Pin each foreleg to either
side of body pinning top of arm to 6th row below bound-off sts at neck. Sew cast-on sts in
place all the way around.
Head
Gather cast-on sts of head, pull tight and secure. Join row-ends of trunk and with seam at
center back, whipstitch bound-off sts. Stuff trunk and join row-ends of head leaving a gap.
Stuff head and close gap. Pin head to body, pinning first garter st row of trunk to neck at
center front, adding more stuffing to neck if needed. Sew head to body by taking a small
horizontal st from head and then a small horizontal st from body, alternating all the way
around.
Ears
With right sides facing, place a side 1 and side 2 together matching all edges. Join row-
ends and bound-off sts by sewing back and forth 1 st in from edge. Turn right-side out and
catch cast-on sts together. Repeat for the other ear. Sew ears to head.
Tusks
Join row-ends of tusks from tips to beg of increase sts, and stuff, pushing stuffing in with
tweezers or tip of scissors. Sew tusks to either side of head at top of trunk.
Embroidering the features

To make eyes, tie a knot in 2 lengths of black yarn, winding the yarn around 6 times to
make each knot (click here for directions). Check that the knots are the same size. Tie
eyes to 15th row above top of trunk with 8 knitted sts in between. Weave in ends into
head.
Tail
Take 6 lengths of yarn, each 16in (40cm) long, in a bundle and tie a knot in the center.
Fold in half and divide into 3. Braid for 1 1/4in (3cm) and tie a knot to secure. Cut ends
5/8in (1.5cm) from the knot. Sew tail to elephant at back.
Read mo
Free Crochet Pattern: Amigurumi Elephant

Pattern #: 70582AD
4.7 (based on 101
Rating:
reviews)
Write a review
SKILL LEVEL: Easy
SIZE: One Size

4 in. (10 cm) tall
PUBLISHED IN: Jo-Ann, knit.1

CORRECTIONS: None

this little elephant is sure to be a favorite. As
seen inMartha Stewart Living, January 2010.
Color (A)
Vanna's Choice®
Vanna's Choice®
Oatmeal Grey Marble Wheat Barley Dark Grey Silver Heather Patchwork Grey Vanilla Twist
Heather

400, 401, 403: 92% Acrylic, 8% Rayon
MATERIALS
• 860-105 Vanna's Choice Yarn: Silver Blue ball $ 4.39
Fiberfill stuffing
•
Amigurumi Elephant
GAUGE:
STITCH EXPLANATION:
NOTES:
Elephant is worked in continuous rnds; do not join or turn unless otherwise instructed.
BODY
Ch 2.
rnd is completed.
Following package directions, attach safety eyes. Stuff piece.
Shape Trunk
Fasten off. Stuff trunk lightly. Fold open end of trunk up and sew in place.
LEGS (make 4)
Ch 2.
is completed.
Fasten off.
EARS (make 2)
Ch 2.
is completed.
Fasten off.
FINISHING
Tail
Join yarn with sl st at back of Elephant, and ch 5. Work 3 hdc in 2nd ch from hook. Fasten off.
Stuff Legs and sew to Body. Fold Ears in half to make a half circle, lightly stuff and sew
closed. Sew straight edge of Ears to Head. Weave in ends.
hdc = half double crochet rep = repeat(s)(ing)
rnd(s) = round(s) sc = single crochet
st(s) = stitch(es)
re: Easy Knitting Projects whipped this little guy up this morning!
If you find any errors, please let me know!
Enjoy!
The turtles measure 2 inches tall, and about 3 1/2 inches from nose to tail.
Tiny Striped Turtle
Supplies needed
F Hook
Small amounts of WW yarn
Stitch marker or safety pin
Buttons for eyes (optional)
Fiberfill
Terms used
Sc = single crochet
Sc-dec = single crochet decrease over 2 stitches
Ch = chain
BLO = back loops only
FO = Finish off, or Fasten off
Slp-st = slip stitch
You will need 2 colors to stripe the shell.

They will be referred to as color 1 = C1, and color 2 = C2.
Shell
Each round will end with a slp-st to the first sc made in that row.
With C1
Ch 2
1) 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
C2
2) ch 1, 2 sc in each sc around (12 sc)
C1
3) ch 1, (2 sc in first sc, sc in next sc) repeat around (18 sc)
C2
4) ch 1, sc in each sc around
C1
5) ch 1, (2 sc in first sc, sc in next 2 sc) repeat around (24 sc)
C2
C1
7) ch 1, (2 sc in first sc, sc in next 3 sc) repeat around (30 sc)
C2
C1
9) ch 1, sc in each sc around, finish off C1 at end of this row
C2
11) in BLO, ch 1, (sc-dec, sc in next 3 sc) repeat around (24 sc)
12) ch 1, (sc-dec, sc in next 2 sc) repeat around (18 sc)
STUFF
13) ch 1, (sc-dec, sc in next sc) repeat around (12 sc)
FO . Use tail to sew hole closed.
Head
Head is done in one continuous spiral.
Ch 2
3) (2 sc in first sc, sc in next sc) repeat around (18 sc)
8) (sc-dec, sc in next 2 sc) repeat around 18 sc
10) (sc-dec, sc in next sc) repeat around (12 sc)
slp st to next sc. FO, leaving long tail for sewing
Legs (make 4)
Legs are done in one continuous spiral
Ch 2,
Slp st to next sc. FO leaving long tail for sewing
Tail
Ch 4,
1) slp st in 2nd ch from hook, slp st in next ch, sc in last ch.
FO
Stuff and sew head to turtle body.

Sew legs on the underside of turtle.
Sew tail onto turtle tush.
Enjoy your turtle!!
- Knitted Gifts at WomansDay.com - Woman's Day
High-Res
Pattern
Head:
R1: Ch 2, 7 sc on the 2nd ch from hook
R2: 2 sc in each sc around(14sc)
R3: *1 sc, 2sc in next sc*, repeat 7 times(21)
R6-R12: Sc 35
R13: *sc 3, dec 1*, repeat 7 times(28)
sew eyes, nose and mouth
stuff firmly
bind off.
Body:
R1: Ch 2, 7 sc on the 2nd ch from hook
R2-R6: Sc 7
stuff
bind off leaving long tail for sewing, sew to head
Ears:
R1: ch 2, 4 sc on the 2nd ch from hook
R2: 2 sc in each sc around(8sc)
R4: Sc 12
bind off leaving long tail for sewing, sew to head
arms and legs:
R2-R4: 5 sc
bind off leaving long tail for sewing, sew to body
tail:
R2-R5: 5sc
enjoy! :3
Crochet Pattern: Lil’ Kino the Puppy
Who can resist this little white puppy? Lil’ Kino the Puppy is approximately 5inches tall and
4.5inches wide (13cm x 12cm). This will definitely make a very meaningful and special gift for all
dog lovers. Crochet your little companion now! Feel free to share your adorable crocheted puppy
pictures at “Little Yarn Friends Facebook Page” or e-mail me at littleyarnfriends@gmail.com.
Don’t be shy to drop me an e-mail or Facebook message if you have any questions. I’ll love to
hear all your comments too. Thank you in advance. May Lil’ Kino bring millions of smiles to
YOU and all the lovely people around you. Happy Crocheting!
Before we begin, you might want to click “Here” to read the story behind this creation and some
Work-In-Progress pictures. It might help you in your assembling later.
If not, let’s begin!
Materials:
 Yarn- White 8ply Acrylic Yarn, Small amount of Light-Blue and Yellow 8ply Acrylic Yarn, Small
amount of Black 5ply Acrylic Yarn.
 Crochet Hooks - Size 3.0mm
 Yarn Needle
 Tapestry Needle
 White and Black Tapestry Thread
 Fiberfill
 1 pair of 13mm Safety Eyes
 Fabric Glue
 Stitch Marker or Safety Pin
Note:
1. This pattern works in continuous rounds (instead of joined rounds).
2. The Dog Tag Strap works in Rows.
3. It’s better to assemble your puppy 1st before making the Dog Strap.
Abbreviation:
 MR - Magic Ring
 sc - Single Crochet
 2 sc in next sc - Increase
 dec 1 - Decrease
 Ch - Chain
 * * - Repeat Step
 F/O - Fasten Off
Head:
White Yarn.
Rnd 1: MR, sc 6 in MR. (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around. (12)
Rnd 3: *sc 1, 2 sc in next sc*, repeat around. (18)
Rnd 6: *2 sc in next sc, sc 4*, repeat around. (36)
Rnd 10-13: sc around. (54)
Rnd 17: *dec 1, sc 8*, repeat around. (54)
(Add in safety eyes with rubber stoppers between Rnd 15 and 16)
Start stuffing with fiberfill.
Add on fiberfill to stuff the entire head.
Rnd 29: *dec 1*, repeat around. (6)
F/O, leave a long end to sew to body.
Snout:
White Yarn.
F/O, leave a long end to sew to head.
Ears: (make 2)
White Yarn.
Rnd 7: *sc 2, dec 1*, repeat around. (18)
Rnd 16: sc 2, dec 1*, repeat around. (14)
Do not stuff, flatten the ears.
F/O, leave a long end, weave in and out to close the hole on the top.
Body:
White Yarn.
Add on fiberfill to stuff the entire body.
F/O, leave a long end to sew to head.
Front Legs: (make 2)

White Yarn.
Rnd 8: dec 6, sc 6. (12)
Add on fiberfill to stuff the rest of the arms.
Do not over stuff the top.
F/O, leave a long end, weave in and out to close the hole on the top.
Back Legs: (make 2)

White Yarn.
Rnd 8: dec 6, sc 6. (12)
Rnd 9: sc around. (12)
Add on fiberfill to stuff the rest of the legs.
Do not over stuff the top.
F/O and hide the excess yarn.
Tail:
White Yarn.
Stuff with fiberfill.
F/O, leave long end to sew to body.
Nose:
Black Yarn.
F/O.
Dog Strap:
Light Blue Yarn.
Ch 3.
Row 1: *sc 2nd ch from hook across. Ch 1 and turn.* (2)
Repeat until Strap nicely fit around puppy’s neck.
Dog Tag:
Yellow Yarn.
F/O.
Assembling: (refer to pictures)
1. Sew on the black nose onto the snout using black tapestry thread. (I know I’ve used white in
the picture)
2. To make the vertical line of the nose, attach a piece of black acrylic yarn using a yarn needle
just below the oval nose. (Refer to white arrow in the picture)
3. Count approximately 4 to 5 rounds down from the oval nose and insert the other end of the
black yarn onto the snout.
4. Tie a knot at the back of the black yarn to secure the vertical line.
 Using white tapestry thread and needle, sew on the ears to the side of puppy’s head. Placement
of ears is around Rnd 8 or 9 of puppy’s head.
 Stuff the Snout with fiberfill and sew just below where the eyes are placed.
 Attach the body to the head using white tapestry thread or yarn.
 Sew on the front legs to the body using white tapestry thread and needle.
 Sew on the back legs to the body using white tapestry thread and needle.
 Using a yarn needle, attach the tail to the lower back of the body.
Dog Strap and Dog Tag:
1. Fold the blue dog strap in half and take note of the center.
2. Sew on the yellow dog tag onto the last stitch at the center of the dog strap.
3. Wrap around puppy’s neck and sew up the strap using white tapestry thread.
And Congratulations, you’ve completed your Lil’ Kino the Puppy!
This pattern is an original pattern by Rachel H of Little Yarn Friends (August 2012).
Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may
link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for
your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it. Kindly inform and
credit Little Yarn Friends if you want to sell items made from this pattern. Thank You.
The Oddball Mice

Here is the pattern for the Oddball Mice. It's the same pattern I followed for the Tiny Mouse - my
first attempt at micro-crocheting. If you have any problems, let me know.
Oddball Mice
Size
8cm/3in tall, 7cm/2 ¾ in wide
Skill Level
Easy. The single crochet and the slip stitch are the only stitches used in this pattern. There is
some joining but it is pretty straightforward.
Note on yarn and hook size

I crochet with a light worsted (DK) weight yarn. You can use a slightly heavier or lighter yarn as
long as you use the same type of yarn for the different colours. This will ensure your toy is in
proportion. Use a hook size that will give you a nice firm stitch. The 3.00mm is my favourite
hook.
Materials
Yarn
Main colour – Grey, cream or brown (57 metres/62 yards)
Nose and Tail – Pink or Black (small amount)
Eyes – White (small amount)
Crochet Hook – 3.00mm or preferred size

Filling
Plastic pellets or dried beans and stocking (optional)
Tapestry needle
White felt
Black felt
Craft glue and/or thread and sharp needle for attaching felt
Terminology
***This pattern is written using US crochet terminology***
ch – Chain
Rnd - Round of a continuous spiral.
sc – Single crochet
sc2tog – Single crochet two stitches together.
sl st – Slip stitch
st – Stitch. This term covers ch, sc, hdc, sl st and other stitches used in crochet.
Make a ring – The starting point for crocheting in a spiral. Use which ever method you prefer.
* * - Repeat the instructions between the asterisks as directed.
( ) – The number of stitches that should be in a completed round are placed in brackets at the
end of that round’s instructions.
Instructions
Body (in Grey, Cream or Brown)

Make a ring.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: *sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc* around (18)
Rnd 4: *sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc* around (24)
Rnd 9-10: sc in each sc around
Rnd 11: *sc in next 6 sc, sc2tog* around (42)
Can start lightly stuffing now. Plastic pellets or dried beans tied in a stocking can be placed at
the bottom of the body to give it a bit of weight.
Rnd 20: sc in each sc around
Rnd 24: *sc in next sc, sc2tog* around (14)
Finish stuffing firmly.
Rnd 25: sc2tog around (7)
Close up hole, fasten off and weave in ends.
Arms (in Grey, Cream or Brown)

Make a ring.
Fasten off, leaving tail for joining to the body. Leave unstuffed. Make two.
Snout (in Grey, Cream or Brown)

Make a ring.
Rnd 2: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc (7)
Rnd 3: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (9)
Fasten off, leaving tail for joining to the body. The snout will need a little bit of stuffing.
Nose (in Pink or Black)

Make a ring.
Rnd 4: *sc in next sc, sc2tog* around (8)
Rnd 5: sc2tog around (4)
Fasten off, leaving a tail. The nose is going to be squashed. To do this, using a needle, thread
the yarn through the nose to the top, out through the starting ring. Bring the yarn back down
through the nose and pull gently to squash it. Fasten off, leaving tail to join to the snout.
Ears (Grey, Cream or Brown)

Make a ring.
Fasten off, leaving tail for joining to the body. Leave unstuffed. Make two.
Big Eye ( in White)

Make a ring.
Sl st in next sc and pull through yarn. Leave a tail for joining to the body.
Small Eye (in White)

Make a ring.
Sl st in next sc and pull through yarn. Leave a tail for joining to the body.
You can now attach a small circle of black felt to each eye to make the pupils, using needle and
thread or glue. They should sit off-centre, close to the edge of the eye.
Tail (Pink or Black)

Chain 21
Row 1: Slst in 2nd chain from the end, slst in next 19 sc.
Fasten off, leaving tail for joining to the body.
Assembly
***These are guidelines only. Be guided by your own eye at all times.***
Join the arms to the body. Attach them just below the neck (the narrowest part of the body).
Join the snout to the body. The bottom of the snout sits just on the neck.
Join the nose to the snout. Stitch it to the very tip of the snout.
Join the eyes to the body. The eyes sit close together just above the snout. Position the eyes so
that the pupils are close together.
Join the ears to the body. Ears are attached to the side of the head, a little above the neck, in
line with the arms.
Join the Tail to the body. Lie the tail so that it goes up the centre of the back of the mouse. Join
one end to the bottom.
Want to try something a little more spooky? Check out the Ghost Mouse.
For full instructions with detailed pictures please download PDF : Download
treefrog.pdf
You’ll need –
• 2 big eyes (mine were 1 pair of 16.5mm amber cat safety eyes from
craftbits.co.uk)
• 2 pipe cleaners
• A very small amount of cotton dk / light worsted yarn in 3 colours
(green, white and orange)
• A little stuffing
• A trusty 3.5mm crochet hook
Back legs (x2)
• In green chain 27, the 27th is the turning stitch.
• Crochet a single stitch in each chain, so that you have 26 single
stitches, turn.
• Crochet a second row of green single sts, then two rows
of white single sts, retaining 26 sts on each row by using a turning st on
each row.
Front legs (x2)
• In green chain 17 , the 17th is the turning stitch.
• Crochet a single stitch in each chain, so that you have 16 single
stitches, turn.
• Crochet a second row of green single sts, then two rows
of white single sts, retaining 16 sts on each row by using a turning st on
each row.
Putting the legs together
• Sew each leg around a pipe cleaner, lengthwise, using blanket stitch
and yarn needle, with some of the whitecotton yarn. Leave one end
open and sew the other neatly shut.
Head
• In green, do a magic circle with 8 single crochet sts, seal with a slip st.
• Row 1: Chain 1 and single crochet in the next 5 sts, chain 1 and turn.
• Row 2: Crochet 2 single sts in the first st, then 1 single crochet in the
second, 2 singles in the third, 1 single in the fourth, and 2 singles in the
fifth. Chain 1 and turn.
• Row 3: Crochet 1 single st in the first st, 2 in the second, 1 in the third,
2 in the fourth, 2 in the fifth, 1 in the sixth, 2 in the seventh, and 1 in
the eighth. Chain 1 and turn.
• Row 4: Crochet 1 in the first, 2 in the second, 1 in sts 3 – 10, 2 in the
eleventh, and 1 in the twelfth. Chain 1 and turn.
• Row 5: Crochet 1 in each st.
• Single crochet around the edges of the head to create a neat edge.
Affix eyes.
• Chain 12 sts and join st 12 to 1 with a slip st. Sew around the eye and
repeat for the other eye.
Body (underside)
• In white chain 9, the 9th st is the turning st.
• Crochet 11 rows of single st, retaining 8 on each row by using a turning
st on each row.
• Without using a turning st, crochet a further 5 rows, allowing the body
to gradually taper.
• (the frog’s underbody should be 16 rows long, with 8 sts in the first 11
rows, 7 in the 12th, 6 in the 13th, 5 in the 14th, 4 in the 15th and 3 in
the 16th).
• Crochet all around the frog’s body to neaten the edge and give a
slightly domed shape.
Back feet (x2)
• In orange chain 7 and single crochet in the remaining 6 sts.
• Repeat this again, chaining down 7 and crocheting back for the 6
stitches, twice more, to make 3 toes, and knot the two lengths of yarn
to pull together the foot.
Front feet (x2)
• In orange chain 6 and single crochet in the remaining 5 sts.
• Repeat this again (as with the back feet) to make 3 toes, drawing
together and knotting the yarn to form the foot.
Suckers (x12)
• In orange make a 7 stitch circle using a magic circle, close with a slip
st.
Making feet
• Weave in all the loose ends and sew a sucker onto the end of each toe.
(I found using a regular needle and thread made the best effect).
• Stitch the back feet to the back legs, and the front feet to the front
legs; again, I’d use regular needle and thread, rather than yarn.
Making frog
• Sew the green head to the green body, matching the back of the head
to the bigger end of the body.
• Match the front of the head to the tapered end of thewhite body, then
sew it in place. (pic1)
• Add a little stuffing, then position the front and back legs before
sewing into place on one side. (pics 2 & 3)
• Position the other legs, add more stuffing and sew the frog closed. (pic
4)
Finishing
• Bend frog into shape, with front legs going one way and the back legs
going the opposite way; so the knees and elbows pretty much touch,
like this ><
• Ribbit…
Amigurumi Bear & Pot of Honey
-I don't know what I was thinking when I talked about posting the pancake pattern, that
one's still in the shop! :p I hope you like this little bear instead :)
I'm posting again tomorrow about the girl that makes the most beautiful wallets in the
planet, the book giveaway, a little typo and a little better Pablito the Penguin's
arms'explanation.
Talk to you tomorrow!
For this little bear you'll need worsted weight yarn, fiberfill, a tiny little piece of felt &
an F/5 hook :)
♥ LITTLE BEAR
Head
R1– Ch 2, 6 sc in second chain from hook
R2- 2 sc in each st around (12 sts)
R3- *Sc 1, 2 sc in next st*, repeat 6 times (18 sts)
R7-16: Sc 36
R17- *Sc 4, dec 1*, repeat 6 times (30 sts)
R20- Sc 18
Stuff firmly
R22- *Sk 1 st, sc 1*, repeat 6 times (6 sts)
Bind off, weave in loose end.
Ears
R3-4: Sc 12
Bind off leaving long tail for sewing, sew to head.
Body
R4-8: Sc 18
Bind off leaving long tail for sewing, stuff and sew to head.
Arms & Legs
Arms:
R2-5: Sc 6
Bind off, leaving long tail for sewing and sew to body (no need to stuff them).
Legs:
R2-4: Sc 6
Bind off, leaving long tail for sewing and sew to body (no need to stuff them).
♥ POT OF HONEY
Base
R4- Through back loops only:
*Sc 1, dec 1*, repeat 6 times (12 sts)
R7-10: Sc 24
R12- Sc 18
Bind off, weave in loose end.
Cut a little rectangular piece of white felt and embroider the word “honey” on
it, sew to pot :)
Top
R5- Through back loops only:
*Sc 2, dec 1*, repeat 6 times (18 sts)
R6- Sc 18
Bind off, weave in loose end
Pronto!
Don't forget to share your little bear in our Flickr group :)
Baby Bear Pattern
A few months ago I created this little baby black bear for the craft store in Georgia. This was the
very first thing that I created so it only seems right that I offer it to everyone for free. I really tried
to make sure that the pattern was correct, but if you find any mistakes in it or have any
questions just let me know.
Baby Bear Pattern

Materials:
Black yarn (I used wool)

Felt: tan and white.
Black embroidery floss.
Sewing thread: tan and white.
Crochet hook of your choice. (I used C2)*
Yarn needle.
Safety eyes. (I used brown and black.)
White baby ric-rac.
Stitch explanation: decrease (dec or sc2tog)

In this pattern I used the term dec. It is the same as sc2tog.
Insert your hook into stitch and draw up a loop. Insert hook into next stitch and draw up a loop.
Yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook.
Note: All pieces are worked in continuous rounds. You will need to use a stitch marker and
move it up as work progresses.
*You can use any size hook you want but just know that the bigger the hook, the bigger your
bear will be.
Head: Ch2
Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd chain from hook. (6)
Rnd 2: Sc 2 in each sc around. (12)
Rnd 3: *Sc 1, 2sc in next sc* rep 6 times. (18)
Rnd 5: *Sc 3, 2sc in next sc * rep 6 times. (30)
Rnd 8-13: Sc in each sc around. (42)
Rnd 14:*Sc 5, dec. 1*, rep 6 times.(36)
Rnd 15: *Sc 4, dec. 1*, rep 6 times. (30)
Stop here and attach safety eyes and sew on muzzle*. Begin stuffing head.
Stuff head firmly.
Rnd 19: Skip 1 sc, sc1 around (6)
Fasten off and weave in yarn tail.
Body: Ch 2
Rnd 3: *Sc 1, 2sc in next sc*, rep 6 times.(18)

Rnd 4: *Sc 2, 2sc in next sc*, rep 6 times. (24)
Begin to stuff body and keep stuffing as you go.
Rnd 16: *dec. around 6 times. (6)
Stuff firmly. Fasten off and pull tight. Leave a long yarn tail so you can attach
body to head.
Legs: Make 2
Ch2
Rnd 1: 6 sc in 2nd chain from hook.(6)
Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around. (12)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, 2sc in next sc, around. (18)
Rnd 6: Sc 1, dec. 1, around. (12)
Rnd 7: Sc in sc around. (12)
Fasten off; leave long yarn tail for attaching to body. Stuff.
Arms: Make 2
Ch2
Rnd 2: 2sc in each sc around. (18)
Rnd 3: Sc around. (18)
Rnd 5: Sc in each sc around. (12)
Fasten off; leave long yarn tail for attaching to body. Stuff.
Ears: Make 2
Ch 2
Rnd 4-6: Sc around. (18)

Fasten off; leave long tail for sewing to head; Fold ears in half and stitch
together before attaching to head.
Tail: Ch 2
Fasten off; leave long yarn tail for attaching to body.

Note: Adding a tail helps the bear sit up.
Muzzle: Using tan felt, cut out a small circle. Embroider a nose and mouth on the
felt. I sew it onto the head when I attach the eyes. If sewing is not your thing,
then you can simply hot glue the muzzle on after you finish the head.
Baby Bib: Using white felt, cut out two small bib shaped pieces. Place ric-rac
between the two bib pieces and sew together. DO NOT CUT YOUR THREAD YET.
Place bib on bear’s neck and go around the back of his neck with the thread.
Stitch it to the other side of the bib. Do this several time and then tie off and cut
your thread.
I ask that you do not sell this pattern or claim it as your own. However, I do give my
permission for you to sell items made from this pattern. Just please tell everyone where
you got the pattern from.
I hope you enjoy making your very own baby bear!
Free pattern - Soren the baby dragon

A while ago, I wrote a pattern for an amigurumi dragon...and I've decided to share it with
everyone for free! So much of what I crochet is based on free patterns so I figured it was
my turn to give something back. Enjoy!
Head:
Using yarn colour A
Row 1: ch 2, then 6 sc into the first chain.
Row 2: 2sc into each of the sc (12 stitches)
Row 3: [2sc into the first sc, sc into next sc] repeat around (18 stitches)
Row 4: [2sc into the first sc, sc into the next 2 sc] repeat around (24 stitches)
Row 5: [2sc into the first sc, sc into the next 3 sc] repeat around (30 stitches)
Row 6 to Row 10: sc into each sc around (30 stitches)
Row 11: [sc2tog, then sc into the next 3 sc] around (24 stitches)
Row 12: [sc2tog, then sc into the next 2 sc] around (18 stitches)
Row 13: [sc2tog, then sc into next sc] around (12 stitches)
Start stuffing the head as firmly as you can, you're just making a basic ball as the face and
eyes will be attached later.
Row 14: sc2tog around, cut and finish off leaving enough yarn to sew the hole shut. Weave
in loose end.
It should look like a perfect little round ball.
Snout/face:
Row 1: ch 3, then 3 sc into the first chain from hook, sc into the next sc, 6 sc into the next
sc. Turn
work around 180 degrees so that the bottom of the row now becomes the top row, and sc
in the next sc, and 4 sc into the next sc (14 stitches)
Row 2: sc into the back loops of each sc (14 stitches)
Row 3 and Row 4: sc into each sc (14 stitches)
Row 5: [2 sc into the first sc, sc into the next sc] repeat around (21 stitches)
Row 6: [2 sc into the first sc, then sc into the next 2 sc] repeat around (28 stitches)
Row 8: sc into each sc around (35 stitches)
Row 9: [2 sc into each sc] for the first 15 sc, then sc2tog around (40 stitches)
The face should have a flatter, broader side on the top half and a curved rounded part on
the bottom half.
Eyebrows:
Make two of these! Use yarn colour A. Alternatively, you could use yarn colour B for an
interesting contrast.
Row 1: ch 2, then 6 sc into the first chain. Join with a sl st, then finish off and weave in all
the ends.
They should look like 2 tiny flowers. The safety eyes will go through the little hole in the
middle. Next, the eyes are attached onto the snout/face and the backs of the safety eyes
are then attached onto the back of the snout/face. So it should be layered, from the outside
in it will go: safety eyes, eyebrows, snout/face, then safety eye backing. If you aim to have
the centres of the eyes line up with the outer edge of the nostrils, it should be about right,
but you can play with this depending on how you want your little guy to look.
Body:
Using yarn colour A
Row 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12 stitches)
Row 3: [2 sc into first sc, then sc into the next sc] repeat around (18 stitches)
Row 9: [sc2tog, then sc into the next 3 sc] repeat around (24 stitches)
Row 10 and Row 11: sc in each sc around (24 stitches)
Row 12: [sc2tog, then sc into the next 2 sc] repeat around (18 stitches)
Start adding stuffing at this point, make sure it's packed in as firm as possible.
Row 13 to Row 15: sc into each sc around. (18 stitches)
Row 16: [sc2tog, then sc into the next sc] repeat around (12 stitches)
Row 17: sc into each sc around.
Finish off, making sure you leave a long enough piece of yarn so you can attach the head
later. Add more stuffing and shape the body in your hand so there's no lumps or ridges.
Legs:
Make 2 of these!
Starting with yarn colour B (the contrasting colour)
Row 2: 2 sc into each sc around (12 stitches)
Row 3: sc in each sc around, break off yarn colour B (12 stitches)
Row 4 to Row 5: Join yarn colour A, then sc in each sc around. (12 stitches)
You'll need to add a little bit of stuffing at this point, the little legs get narrow and it gets too
hard to
poke it down into the foot part.
Row 6: sc2tog around (6 stitches)
Row 7 to Row 8: sc into each sc around. (6 stitches)
Arms:
He'll need 2 of these, too, in yarn colour A.
Row 1: ch 2, then 6 sc into the first ch.
Row 2: sc in each back loop only (6 stitches)
Row 3 to Row 6: sc in each sc around (6 stitches)
Cut and finish off, making sure you leave enough yarn to sew them onto the body.
Tail:
Use yarn colour A.
Row 1: ch 2, then 4 sc into the first ch.
Row 3: 2 sc into the first sc, then sc into the next sc, repeat. (6 stitches)
Row 7: [2 sc into the first sc, then sc into the next sc] repeat around (9 stitches)
Row 9 to Row 10: [2 sc into the first sc, then sc into the next 2 sc] repeat around (16
stitches)
Cut and finish off, leaving lots of yarn to attach it to the body. Weave in the loose end from
the tip of the tail. Stuff with polyester filling, making it fat at the open end. The narrow tip of
the tail
should be left unfilled, so you can pinch it and shape it as you like.
Assembly:
Start with the snout/face and head. The head should have one side that looks neater than
the other side, so use the neater side as the back of the head (you'll see the back of the
head but we're covering up the front with the face). So with the less neater side facing you,
lay the snout/face over the ball like a mask. Stretch it and play with it until you're happy with
the position of the face. Then stitch it onto the head using the yarn you left attached for this
purpose! Weave in all loose ends.
Next, attach the head to the body using the length of yarn left on the body. You may need
to play
with the angle of the head a bit and be careful when attaching the head, so that the face is
straight and facing forward. Weave in any loose ends.
The tail goes on next. It should be placed low down in the very middle of his back so that it
sits
level with what is essentially his bottom! Sew it on then weave in loose ends.
Next are the little legs. They should be attached low down on the front of the body, face
forwards
and angle out a little bit. If you look at the bottom of the dragon, the feet and the tail should
make a triangle shape – this balances him so that he can sit up on his own. Getting there!
The arms are the last little appendages to attach, they should go on his body about 1cm
(half an inch) under his neck. They should be on the same angle as the legs. Weave in all
the ends.
All that's left now is his spines. These are stitched directly onto his body using
contrasting colour
yarn B. To do this you will need to crochet a foundation chain from the tip of his tail up to
the top of his head.
Row 1: Insert hook into a stitch on the tip of the tail. Yarn over and bring it through, chain 1
then sc along the length of the body. Try to space them fairly evenly, don't worry about an
exact number of sc because you'll need to make the sc where ever they will fit!
Row 2: Turn him so you will now work back towards the tail. Ch 3 then sc back into the
same place so it makes a little ridge.
[sl st into the next sc, sc into the next sc, ch 3 and then sc back into the same place] repeat
the
length of the body.
Cut off and weave in loose ends. You should now have a completed dragon with little
spines!
Shark Amigurumi
SHARK AMIGURUMI PATTERN

(Based on the Orca Pattern)
FINISHED SIZE: ~4 inches
MATERIALS:
Lion Brand Jiffy; Silver Heather (A), White (B)
small amount of black yarn for embroidering
size J crochet hook (or whichever hook size results in stitches tight enough to
prevent stuffing from showing through)
9mm black safety eyes
yarn needle
stuffing
BODY:
Top:
Using A, start with a magic ring. Ch 1, 5 sc in ring.
2 sc in ea st around. (10)
(2 sc in next st, sc in next st)around. (15)
(2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts)around. (20)
Sc in ea st around for 5 rounds.
Sl st in next st.
Fasten off.
Base:
Using B, start with a magic ring. Ch 1, 5 sc in ring.
2 sc in ea st around. (10)
(2 sc in next st, sc in next st)around. (15)
Sc in ea st around.
Sl st in next st.
Fasten off, leaving a length of yarn for sewing.
(In order to create the sharks teeth, it is important that white yarn be used to sew
Body Top to Base.)
FINS:
Make 5.
Using A, start with a magic ring. Ch 1, 4 sc in ring.
Sc in ea st around.
(2 sc in next st, sc in next st)twice. (6)
Sc in ea st around for 3 rounds.
Fasten off, leaving a length of yarn for sewing.
ASSEMBLY:
With black yarn, embroider gills on sides of Body Top.
Place safety eyes just in front of gills and secure.
Sew Body Top to Body Base, adding stuffing throughout this process.
Sew one fin to top of shark.
Sew one fin to either side of shark, beneath gills.
Sew two fins (vertically) to the rear of the shark to create the tail.
With white yarn, embroider teeth (just vertical lines in the example) somewhat
randomly.
Enjoy. Feel free to give away or sell any items made using this pattern. Attributing
credit to the designer is appreciated but not necessary.
Printer-friendly PDF
Posted by Unspecified Individual at 6:59 PM
Sheepy Amigurumi
A FREE pattern by Annette Morrison (cheewawamomma)
October 2011
This pattern is a bit more complicated than my usual patterns. The combination of single crochets and
treble crochets make the nubby texture of the sheep. Basically, you are creating a ball, with the normal
increases and decreases, but you are throwing in the trebles approximately every second or third stitch,
depending on the row. Once you get the hang of it, it’s easy-peasy lemon-squeezy!
I used Red Heart Worsted Weight yarn, and a 3.5 hook.

tr-treble crochet
sc-single crochet
inc-increase
dec-decrease
FO-Finish off
sl st - slip stitch
In a magic ring:
1. (2sc, 1 tr) twice (makes 6 stitches total in magic ring)

2. (1sc, 1tr) in each stitch around. (12 stitches)
3. (1sc, then (1tr, 1sc) in next stitch) around. (18 stitches)
4. (1sc, 1tr, then a sc inc) around. (24 stitches)
5. (2sc, 1tr, then a sc inc) around. (30 stitches)
6. (2sc, 1 tr) around. (30 stitches)
7. (1sc, 1tr) around. (30 stitches)
8-9 Repeat row 6 and row 7. (30 stitches each row)
10. (1tr, 2sc, sc dec) around. (24 stitches)
11. (1sc, 1tr, dec) around. (18 stitches)
12. (1sc, dec around). FO. (12 stitches)
STUFF!!!
With black, join with a sl st in the last sc on row 12. Ch 1.
1-4. Sc around. (12 stitches each row)

5. Sc dec around. FO. (6 stitches)
Stuff head and weave in ends.
Ears and Tail. Make 3.
With white.
Chain 4. Hdc in third chain from hook, sl st in last stitch. FO.
Legs
With Black.
On the underside of sheep, join with a sl st in one of the stitches where you think the leg should be. The
legs are crocheted directly to the sheep!
Chain 5, then FO. Weave in end.

Repeat for the other 3 legs.
Sew on the Ears and tail.
Embroider eyes on. Alternatively, you could use safety eyes, just insert them before you sew up the
snout.
Voila! You have a little sheepy! Make a flock! Wouldn’t they be cute hanging on a Christmas
tree?! Enjoy, and feel free to make them and sell them at craft fairs, although I’d appreciate credit, and
I’d also appreciate it if you didn’t sell them online. Don’t be baaaa-d! (Sorry for that, I’m in a mood!)
Posted 1 year ago
Happy Frog Free Pattern

I am a HUGE fan of free pattern. thee hee hee. I really appreciate people who shares their patterns.
Some are worth buying! So, today I would like to share mine. This pattern had been tested
by Nancy and i thank her for helping me write my first pattern. So now, I present you my very first
free pattern.
Happy Frog
Materials
-Yarn – use a yarn and hook to make a solid fabric so you can’t see the stuffing so any favourite yarn
will do ; worsted weight, DK, or even if you want to make a furry frog.. not a problem.. but I use 4
ply acrylic.
- Hook - any suitable hook – I used 4/0 (2.3mm) hook
-Stuffing
- Google eyes or patch of felt - anything
-Tapestry needle
Directions
Note: This pattern is worked in continuous rounds but if you comfortable in making it in round; it
doesn’t make any different too.
Head
Row 1: Make 6 sc in magic ring.
Row 2: 2sc in each sc (12)
Row 3: (Sc in first sc, 2sc in next sc) 6 times (18)
Row 4: (Sc in first sc, sc in second sc, 2sc in third sc) 6 times (24)
Row 5: (Sc in first sc, sc in second sc, sc in third sc, 2sc in fourth sc) 6 times (30)
Row 6-9: work even
Row 10: (Sc in first sc, sc in second sc, sc in third sc, sc 2 tog) 6 times (24)
Row 11: (sc in first sc, sc in second sc, sc 2 tog) 6 times (18)
Row 12: (sc in first sc, sc 2 tog) 6 times (12)
Fasten off. Weave in end.

Eyes (make 2)
Row 2: sc 2 in each sc (12)
Row 3-4: work even
Fasten off. Leave long tail. Stuff. Attach to head.
Body
Row 2: sc 2 in each sc (12)
Row 3: (Sc in first sc, 2sc in next sc) 6 times (18)
Row 4-9: work even
Row 10: (sc in first sc, sc 2 tog) 6 times (12)
Row 11: work even
Fasten off. Leave long end for attaching body to head. Stuff. Attach to head.
Hands (make 2)
Note : The hand is made continuously at the end of the chain attached to the body
Join yarn at the 11th row of the body side, sl st, ch 12
Row 1 : 4 sc in 2nd ch (4)
Row 2 : 2sc in each sc (8)
Row 3 : Work even (8)
Row 4 : *sc 2 tog* 4 times (4)
Fasten off. Join the rounds. Secure the remaining yarn.

Option:
You can stuff the hand lightly or just leave it empty. ( I leave the hands empty)
Legs (make 2)
Note : The hand is made continuously at the end of the chain attached to the body
Join yarn at the 3rd row from the starting point of the bottom body part, sl st, ch 14
Row 1 : 4 sc in 2nd ch (4)
Row 2 : 2sc in each sc (8)
Row 3 - 4 : Work even (8)
Row 5 : *sc 2 tog* 4 times (4)
Fasten off. Join the rounds. Secure the remaining yarn.

Option:
You can stuff the feet lightly or put in some weight or just leave it empty. ( I leave my frog’s feet
empty)
Use googling eyes or stitch your own eyes and mouth - shy smile, big smile, grumpy face; you
choose. It's your frog after all! And don't forget to show me ;)
This is a free pattern. Make as many frogs as you want but do not sell the pattern. You may sell your
finished frogs, but not the pattern. However, you are not allowed to sell items that are made
commercially. The item must be handmade with your own hands. Please also give credit to where
you found the pattern (although this is not required, it is much appreciated). Should you find
anything to comment to make it a better pattern, please do leave me some words. I really love to see
your version of Happy Frog.
Thank you.
Sonar the Bat
This is Sonar the Bat. I created him because there weren't any free bat patterns that I really
liked. He's perfect as a little Halloween decoration or for anyone who enjoys the darker side of
life.
You'll need:
3.5 mm hook (size E), stuffing, scissors, a needle for sewing and embroidery, and two beads,
buttons, or safety eyes. Feel free to have fun with the color combinations as well!
Remember to always leave a long tail for sewing!
Head in main color
R1- in circle work 6 sc
R2- inc each stitch (12 st)
R3- (sc, inc in next st) repeat 5 more times (18 st)
R4- (sc 2 around, inc in next) repeat 5x (24 st)
R5- (sc 3 around, inc in next) 5x more (30 st)
R6-12- sc around (7 rounds total, 30 st)
R13- (sc 3 around, dec 2 st together) repeat 5x (24 st)
R14- (sc 2 around, dec 2 together) 5x (18 st)
R15- (sc, dec 2 together) 5x (12 st)
Stuff
R16- dec around (6 st)
Finish Off, leave long tail
Body in main color

R1- sc 6 in circle
R2- inc each stitch (12 st)
R3- (sc, inc in next st) repeat 5 times more (18 st)
R4- (sc 2 around, inc in next) repeat 5x (24 st)
R10- (sc 2 around, dec 2 together) 5x (18 st)
R13- (sc, dec 2 together) 5x more (12 st)
Finish off and Stuff
Ear (outside) make 2 in main color

Chain 8
Row1- sc 7, chain 1, turn (7 st)
Row2- sc 7, ch 1, turn (7)
Row3- dec, sc 5, ch 1, turn (6)
Row7- dec, sc, ch 1, turn (2)
Finish Off, leaving tail
Ear (inside) make 2 in contrast color

Chain 6
Row1- sc 5, ch 1, turn (5 st)
Row2- sc 5, ch 1, turn (5 st)
Row4- 2 dec, ch 1, turn (2)
Row5- dec (1 st)
Wings make 2 in contrast color

R1- sc 4 in circle, ch 1, turn (4)
R2- sc, 2 inc, sc, ch 1, turn (6)
R3- inc, sc, inc, sc 2, inc, ch1, turn (9)
R4- inc, sc 2, inc, sc 4, inc, ch 1, turn (12)
R5- sc 5, 2 hdc in same st, sc 6 (13)
Finish Off color
In main color sc evenly across straight edge of wings (mine was 10 st)
chain 3, turn, on second chain from hook make a slip stitch, sc next st (claw)
sc 4, hdc in next 2 stitches, sc 4
Eyes make 2 in contrast color

R1- sc 6 in circle
R2- (sc, inc) repeat 2 more times (9 st)
FO, leaving long tail
Attach eyes as you like
Assembly
Sew head to body. Attach eyes about halfway down the top of the head.
Sew the inside of the ears to the outside ears, fold slightly, and sew onto the head.
Sew wings onto body. With extra yarn from sewing, embroider bones in the wings.
Embroider fangs, nose, and mouth, if desired.
Weave in all ends.
Your bat is done!
Link (Legend of Zelda) Amigurumi

free pattern
On my journeys across the world of the web, I ran into a Japanese language pattern for the
most adorable little Link I’ve ever seen! Of course, I had to make a little Link for myself, so
I printed out the pattern and set out to work. When I was done and I shared it with my
friends, they were all astounded. Even my mom is thinking about making one, and so I am
bringing the pattern to you in English for what is to my knowledge the first time. The
author, Becchin, has graciously allowed me to do so. Because this is his pattern built from
the ground up, I ask that you please respect his rights as the creator and do not sell the
pattern or the finished product, especially since this falls under the category of
fanart. Furthermore, please do not repost the pattern anywhere (feel free to link me or
Becchin’s page if you want!). I don’t claim ownership over the pattern or Link; I’m just
translating it so you can make a Link and take him on your own adventures! (I am the
original translator though.) If you want to visit Becchin’s page to see some pictures of the
process, click here. This page is the “person core” page which Link’s pattern is based
on. Pictures of Link are here, and his hat pattern is here. Update 6/13/11: I’m
overwhelmed by the response I’ve gotten for this translation! I’m so happy that other
people enjoy this pattern Stephanie at All About Ami created some accessories for Link
from her own patterns, so please check them out here; they’re fantastic! As always, if you
have any corrections please let me know; I’ve already been made aware of a few but I want
to make sure that the pattern will yield the results I said it will. Thanks!
This is the Link amigurumi I made myself!

Well then, let’s get started~! By the way, it took me 2 days to make Link, just like Becchin
said in his 【ニコニコ動画】【あみぐるみ】リンクを編んでみた【ゼルダの伝説】”>video (but I
think you’ll need a NicoNico Douga account to see it…sorry :< )
Materials: E/4 crochet hook (3.50mm), 2 eyes (I used safety eyes, but I’m sure if you’re
willing to use buttons or embroider eyes that would also work), White, Aran (I used this for
Link’s skin color), Green, Yellow, and Brown yarn (all worsted weight; I just used Red Heart
brand), and polyester stuffing such as Polyfil.
It’s important to note that all parts will be worked in rows rather than a spiral, so don’t
forget to do a sl st to close each row!
By the way, I’m an American so I’m using the terminology associated with being on this side
of the pond among English speakers.
Ball Joint & Upper Body (this will later become the base that the head will turn on–it’s a
removable pivoting head)
Row 1: Crochet 6 sc into the middle of a magic ring with Aran colored yarn. (6)
Row 8: [sc, inc]* Repeat * all the way around (12) On the very last stitch of this row, switch
colors from Aran to Green. This marks the beginning of the upper body.
Rows 10-13: sc all the way around. On the last sc of Row 12, change colors to Brown. (18)
Shoes (Make 2)
Shoe tops
To begin, ch 10 and then sl st to connect the loop on your hook and the first ch you made
with Brown yarn. (In effect, you are creating a ring out of these 10 sts.)
Row 3: sc 4, inc 2, sc 4 (12)
Row 4: sc 5, inc 2, sc 5 (14)
Row 5: sc 6, inc 2, sc 6 (16)
Shoe soles (Brown yarn)
Row 1: Ch 4. Skipping the ch closest to but not on the hook, sc into the next chain on the
left side of the v made. Then, sc into the next chain on the left side. You should be left with
a single chain at this point. Sc twice into the left side of the chain and then once into the
right side. Then, moving towards your starting point, sc into the next chain on the right side
and then the last chain twice. Sl st to close row. (8)
Row 2: Inc all the way around. Sl st to close row. (16)
Attaching the top and sole
Take a length of yarn and go through both loops of an sc on the wider end of the shoe top
and both loops of an sc on the sole. Sc these together and repeat all the way around. Then,
do the same on the other shoe.
Leg (Make 2)
Row 1: Sc 5 into magic ring with white yarn. (5)
Row 2: Sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1 (7)
Row 4: Repeat Row 3. (7)
Row 5: Sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1 (10)
Row 6: Sc around (10)
Once you’ve finished the first leg and cut the yarn at a suitable location, repeat for the
second leg. This time, after finishing the leg, don’t cut the yarn off. Instead, go through
both loops of an sc on either side of the ending point and then both loops of an sc on the
other leg. Sc all 4 loops together. From there, sc around the legs as you would usually do,
moving clockwise from the join all the way around. There should be 18 sts that you will sc
normally and the join should count for 1 bringing you to a total of 19. Change to green yarn
on the last sc of the row. Sc around, ignoring the join (18). Do not cut off the yarn when
you have closed this row.
Next, you are going to be attaching the ball joint/upper body to the legs, so please stuff
these to your liking at this point. After that, sc the two parts together (same as you did for
the shoes, except one sc of the upper body and one sc of the legs in this case) using the
green yarn attached to the legs. After that, sc around counterclockwise for one row and then
as you would normally for another row. Finish the row and cut the yarn.
Head
Row 1: Sc 8 into magic ring using Aran yarn. (8)
Row 4: sc all the way around. (24)
Row 7: [sc, dec] Repeat * all the way around (16)
Row 9: [sc, inc] Repeat * all the way around (24)
Row 10: Sc counterclockwise all the way around (24) What this technique will do is make it
so the “right side” of the crochet switches sides. The rows you made so far will actually be
on the inside of the head and function as a place for the body joint to go into, thus making
the head pivotable.
Row 11: (go back to crocheting clockwise) [sc 2, inc]* Repeat * all the way around (32)
Row 14: Sc 7, dec 4, sc 2, dec 4, sc 7 (24)
Row 15: Sc 6, inc 12, sc 6 (36)

At this point, I’d recommend stuffing the head and placing eyes if you’re going to do safety
eyes.
Row 21: dec all the way around (6)
Arms (Make 2)
Row 1: Sc 6 into magic ring with Brown yarn. (6)
Row 2: inc all the way around (12)
Row 5: dec, sc 4, dec (6) Switch to White yarn on the last st of this row.
Sleeve (make 2)
Row 1: sc 6 into one arm where you want the bottom of the sleeve to start. Start so that
the proper part of the arm you want facing out will be covered by the sts of the sleeve. Then
ch 1 and turn for the next row. (6)
Row 2: sc 6. Ch 1 and turn. (6)
Row 3: sc, dec, dec, sc (4)
Row 4: dec, dec (2)
Bind off and sew each arm to body.
Hair
Row 1: sc 6 into magic ring with Yellow. (6)
Row 2: inc all the way around. (12)

Row 4: [sc 2, inc]* Repeat * all the way around (24)
Using sc, attach to the head in yellow yarn. From this point, choose a point where you want
Link’s hair to start on the side of his head and sc around to the point where you think it
should stop on the other side (as for me, I did about 14 sc). Then, do a turning chain and sc
back (if you want, ch 2 and do double crochet instead to make it easier on yourself.) Repeat
until you get his hair to the desired length. For the longer bang (fringe) pieces I went a little
farther forward on his head and chained about 8 sts going away from his scalp from one of
the sc sts created when I attached the hair to his scalp, then considered one a turning chain
and did sc all the way back so there were 7 sc sts. I then went forward to the next sc and
went through it, and did sc all the way to the bottom. Becchin didn’t give instructions for
this, so this is all my fiddling around. To make Link’s short bangs, I threaded a yarn needle
with yellow yarn and stitched it on as I saw fit.
Ears (Make 2)
Sc 5 into magic ring and arrange in half-circle shape. Attach to side of head.
Pointy Hat
Row 1: Sc 6 into magic ring with Green yarn (6)
Row 2: inc, dec, dec, inc (6)
Row 4: inc 2, sc 2, inc 2 (10)
Row 5: inc 2, sc 6, inc 2 (16)
Row 6: inc 2, sc 10, inc 2 (18)
Row 7: inc 4, sc 10, inc 4 (26)
Row 8: inc 4, sc 18, inc 4 (34)
Row 10: inc 4, sc 26, inc 4 (42)
Row 12: inc 2, sc 38, inc 2 (46)

Row 14: dec 2, sc 40, dec 2 (42)
Row 20: sc all the way around counterclockwise (42)
Row 21: sc all the way around clockwise (42)
You’ve finished! LINK GET!! Well, I hope you enjoyed it. Comment if you used it (pictures
are love!) or if there’s anything that needs to be changed about the pattern.
Later Alligator!
April 16, 2007 by Hannah (BitterSweet) | 35 Comments
Sorry to say, this highly anticipated spring has been something of a downer thus far.
Stepping off the plane from Tokyo, the blast of cold air that greeted me came as quite a
shock, as I had thought that New England was experiencing very similar weather during my
absence. Sure, 60 – 70 degrees over in Tokyo is nothing to write home about, but compared
to the 30 – 40 degree rains over here, it seems like a tropical paradise! Periodically raining,
shining, and then raining again, the rivers have swollen to impressive proportions, fed by
brief but massive downpours. Wanting to capture some of the rapidly moving water passing
through a nearby stream, I wandered down into town a bit, camera in tow, snapping pictures
every few feet. Although I had fully expected to find some interesting and photogenic sights
along the river bank, I nearly dropped my camera in the water when I saw a pair of eyes
staring back that seemed to find me just as interesting a subject!
From the distance between us, I couldn’t be entirely sure of the accuracy of my vision;
Certainly a baby alligator would never turn up in such a remote area, especially without a
parent in sight! And yet as I moved closer for a better look, I could hardly question my first
assessment. Still small and cute, he bore no resemblance to the fearsome killers I had seen
tearing other animals and even humans to shreds on tv, so I quickly dropped my guard and
forgot my fears. Still being cautious to look for his guardians, I snapped numerous pictures
of this incredible find – Who would have believed otherwise?
Slyly grinning from his perch on a sunny rock, he appeared quite content and self-assured,
especially for a young tyke of his age. Perhaps he knew he had quite a reputation in these
parts, where the most fearsome wild animals we have are probably tame enough to be
considered as pets. Although it was clear that he posed no real danger, I still didn’t want to
stick around for too long, in case some enraged mother with teeth of steel showed up,
wondering what a vegan might taste like. After reviewing the display on my camera that
proved my eyes did not deceive me, I headed for home, excited to show this peculiar critter
to anyone who crossed my path.
Cute as he was, I just hope that he doesn’t plan to spend too long in the area… Though
small and adorable now, just give him some time to hit a growth spurt and become a true
terror. Paired with that confident attitude, I don’t think that any inhabitants of that stream
would have a fighting chance! If you’d like to tempt fate and try raising your own baby
alligator nonetheless, I wouldn’t ever want to dissuade anyone passionate enough, so here’s
the pattern!
Upper Jaw
With green worsted weight yarn and a size F hook, ch4, sc into second stitch from hook, sc
2, sc2 more into last stitch, sc1 into the back of each stitch, sc 2 more into last stitch. (10)
Continuing around in the same direction, sc3, sc2 into next two stitches each, sc3, sc2 into
each of the next two stitches. (14)
Sc5, sc2 into next stitch, sc6, sc 2 into next stitch, sc1 (16)
Break yarn and secure.
Lower Jaw
Ch3, sc into second st from hook, sc 4 into next stitch (moving around to the back), sc3 into
back of last stitch. (8)
Continuing in a circle, sc2, sc2 into each of the next two sts, sc2, sc2 into each of the next 2
sts. (12)
Sc4, sc2 into next st, sc5, sc2 into next st, sc1. (14)
Do not break yarn.
Body
Lining up the upper jaw next to your current work, sc into first 8 sts of upper jaw, sc into
outer 7 st of lower jaw, leaving the inner sts of each piece unworked. (15)
Continuing around the outside, Sc2 into each of the next 2 sts, sc4, sc 2 into each of the next
3 sts, sc5, sc2 into next st (21)
Sc1, sc2 tog* around (14)
Sc5, sc2 tog* twice (12)
Sc2 tog around (6)
Sc2 tog around (3)
Tongue
With red yarn, ch4, sc2 into second st from hook, sc1, sc2 into final st (5)
Ch1, sc2 into second st from hook, sc3, sc2 into final st (7)
Ch1, sc across for 10 rows
Eyes [Make 2]
With white yarn, sc5 into a circle

Sc2 into each st (10)
Sc around
Sc2 tog (5)
Legs [Make 4]
Sc4 into a circle
Sc2 into each st (8)
To Assemble: Through opening between jaws, firmly stuff body. Lightly stuff jaws. Sew
tongue to lower jaw along raw back edges. Sew the opening in back with a length of green
yarn. Cut triangles out of white felt for the teeth and glue into desired positions. Stuff the
eyes, gather together the open end and secure, and attach to top of the head. Glue on half-
round beads, buttons, or circles of black felt for the pupils. Stuff all legs and sew onto the
body as indicated by the pictures.
Take care of your new baby, but keep an eye on any other small pets when your gator is
loose!
My Big Fuzzy Spider Pattern

October is my most favorite month. I love the cooler weather, the leaves changing color, the
holiday shopping season and of course, Halloween!
This Big Fuzzy Spider pattern is a super easy and super fast crochet project. In less than 1
hour you can make an adorable 12" Halloween plush toy. Here is the FREE pattern:
Materials:
 Super Bulky yarn - Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick n' Quick - black or fig are great!
 J crochet hook
 yarn needle
 slicker brush (pet store) or small hand carder
 15mm safety eyes (1 pair) try Enami Eyes handpainted in Orange-glo!
 polyester fiber stuffing
 felt scraps for nose
Body: J hook and super bulky yarn.

5) *2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts*, rep from ** around (25)
12) *sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts*, rep from ** around (20)
13) *sc2tog, sc in next 2 st*, rep from ** around (15)
*stuff the body firmly with polyester fiber filling*
14) *sc2tog, sc in next st*, rep from ** around (10)

15) sc2tog for each st around, sl st to bind and leave a 12" tail for sewing the legs on. (5)
Head: J hook and super bulky yarn.

8) *sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts*, rep from ** around, sl st to bind off, leave a 12 tail for sewing to
body (15)
Legs: (make 8) J hook and super bulky yarn.
1) Ch 17, turn, sc in next 6, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 9. Ch 3 (toe) sl st in last sc to bind off,
weave in your ends.
Assembly:
Stack 4 legs in the same direction with toes facing outward and thread your 12" yarn tail
through the top st of each. Sew the group of legs to the last round of the body. Repeat this on
the opposite side with legs facing in the opposing direction.
Use your slicker brush to fuzz up the yarn on the body and head. Small, fast strokes work best
:D
Always fuzz your yarn BEFORE you add embellishments. You don't want to scratch the eyes!
Attach safety eyes, (evenly spaced) to round 3 of the head. Sew a dime sized piece of felt
between the eyes for a nose (you can use fabric glue or liquid stitches if you prefer but this is
permanent).
Stuff the head firmly with polyester fiber fill. Using the remaining 12" from your bind off, sew
the head to the body over the joint of the legs. The legs should protrude from between the
head and body.If necessary, add more stuffing when the head is an inch away from being
completely sewn on, before you close and bind off. Finish sewing and weave in your ends.
Cookie Monster Pattern

He is complete!
Its been a long time coming but I have finally gotten round to re-making cookie
monster and writing up the pattern and I'd just like to say now that I never want to
crochet with eyelash yarn every again. Night mare!
Anyway I am pretty pleased with the way he turned out, he is smaller than the last
cookie monster but I feel that the mouth turned out better this time, The dec rounds
on the body are a bit rough but as long as he is
getting smaller at that part thats all you need to worry about.
You will need:
150g of Stylecraft Eskimo Double Knit Blue eyelash yarn

Small amounts of white and black DK
10mm safety eyes
3.5mm hook
Stitch marker
Fibre Fill to stuff and a needle to sew
NOTE: this is an intermediate to advanced pattern, if you are having problems
check the comments below the pattern as the answer may be there or there is
always Google.
Mouth Black (make 2)

R1: 4sc in ring, ch 1 turn
R2: inc in every st, ch 1 turn (8sc)
R3: sc in first, inc in next, rep (12sc)
R4: sc in next 2, inc in next, rep (16sc)
Sc along straight edge
Attach blue fuzzy yarn and sc around curved edge, sew flat edges together
Head and Body

6sc in ring
R2:inc in every st around (12sc)
R3: ssc in first, inc in next, rep around (18sc)
R4sc in first 2, inc n next, rep around (24sc)
R5:sc in first 3, inc in next, rep around (30sc)
R6: sc in first 4, inc in next, rep around (36sc)
R9: sc in first7, inc in next, rep around (54sc)
R10: sc in first8, inc in next, rep around (60sc)
R11-16 sc around
R17: sc in first 5, ch 25, skip next 25 sts, sc in next 30 to end (35sc 25ch)
(The chain creates a gap in the head for you to sew the mouth onto, on the next round you
single crochet onto this chain and continue with the rest of the head and body. You sew the
mouth in after you have completed the body.)
R18: sc in first 5, sc 25times on chain, sc in last 30 to end (60sc)
R19 sc in first 4, dec in next, rep 4 more times, sc to end (55sc)
R20: sc in first 3, dec in next, rep 5 more times, sc to end (54sc)
R21: sc in first 2, dec in next, rep 6 more times, sc to end (47sc)
R22: sc in first 6, dec in next, *sc in next, dec, rep from * 4 more times, sc to end
(41sc)
R23-28: sc around
Sew in mouth segments with blue fuzzy yarn
R29: sc in next 4, inc in next, rep 3 more times, sc to end (45sc)

R31: sc around
R33: sc around
R35-50: sc around
R51: sc in first 3, dec in next, rep 9 more times, sc in last few stitches
Stuff as you are going along
R52: sc in first 2, dec in next, rep 9 more times,
R53:sc in first, dec in next, rep around
Dec until closed
Eyes (make 2)
R1: 6sc in ring
R2: inc in every st around
R3-5 sc around insert safety eye
R6:Dec and stuff until closed, FO leave tail to sew
Arms
R1: 6sc in ring
R2:inc in every st around (12sc)
R3: sc in first, inc in next rep around (18sc)
R7-10 sc around
R11: sc in first 4, dec in next, rep around (30sc)
R12:sc in first 3, dec in next, rep around (24sc)
R13: sc around
R14: sc around, dec randomly 4 times (20sc)
R15-22 Stuff
FO leave tail to sew
Legs (make 2)
R1: 6sc in ring
R2: inc in every st around (12sc)
R3: sc in first, inc in next, rep around (18sc)
R8-11 sc around
R12: sc in first 8, dec 8 times, sc to end (34sc)
R13: sc in net 6, dec 8 times, sc to end (26sc)
R14-24 Stuff
FO leave tail to sew

Sew body parts where they should go and enjoy
Posted by Maggie at 15:16
Labels: Crochet cookie monster, Free Pattern
homepage > home > craft ideas
Craft Project: Crochet Dog

Learn how to create your own adorable pup out of yarn
By Mitsuki Hoshi
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Photo by: Yasuo Nagumo
Special Offer
Project excerpted from Ami Ami Dogs: Seriously Cute Crochet!

The head and mouth are crocheted in the same way as those of the Miniature
Dachshund. The black dog’s body and legsare crocheted in the same way as the
Japanese Shiba, and the yellow dog's body and legs are crocheted like the standing
Chihuahua. The tail is crocheted like the Chihuahua’s, and the rest of the parts are
crocheted with a single color.
Materials
[Yellow]
• Beige thread, 0.42 oz
• Synthetic cotton
• Black plastic sewing buttons, 2 pieces, 0.24 inch
• Black nose, 1 piece, 0.47 inch
[Black]
• Black thread, 0.39 oz
• Synthetic cotton
• Brown plastic eyes, 2 pieces, 0.35 inch
• Black nose, 1 piece, 0.47 inch
Tool: Crochet hook, No. 4/0
Step-by-Step Method
[Yellow]
1. Sew each body part.
2. Stuff cotton inside the head, body, and legs.
3. Attach the eyes on the head.
4. Attach the nose on the mouth and stuff cotton in it.
5. Attach the mouth to the head by rolled darning.
6. Pass the remaining thread through the last row of the body, and tie it tightly.
7. Pass the remaining thread through the last row of the head and tighten it lightly, then,
attach it to the body by rolled darning.
8. Attach the legs to the body by rolled darning.
9. Fold the ears in half and sew each of them with the remaining thread.
10. Attach the ears to the head, and the tail to thebody by rolled darning.
[Black]
1–5. Same as above
6. Attach the body to the head by rolled darning.
7–9. Follow steps 8–10.
Crochet: Koala Bear Amigurumi

{Tutorial & Pattern}
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Crochet: Koala Bear Amigurumi {Tutorial & Pattern}

Picture 1 of 2 (Click arrow for more pictures)
I found a Koala Bear Amigurumi Pattern in the Woman’s Day website and I have some off-white
and gray organic cotton yarns on hand, so I made a pair of these small little stuffed koala bears
for my kids in reverse color.
Some ideas to make it differently:
1. This adorable little koala is about 3-5″ tall only (depend on your yarn and the matching hook
size), install a key ring on it’s head and turn it into a key chain, hang it to the bag’s zipper.
2. If we sew the limbs closer to the center of the body and insert 4 small strong magnets to the
tip of each limb, you can make it “huggy” and hug on a tree branch or at the edge of your curtain
or yourpencil, ruler etc…
3. And, and…. instead of poly-fills, stuff beads into the body to weight it down and with the
magnets of it limbs, it can be a cute memo holder on your desk too
4. Use a chunkier yarn and bigger hook, crochet a giant version to become a soft toy.
Lets get the how-to for the basic koala bear amigurumi:
Follow the crochet pattern at the above pattern link to

crochet all the parts of the koala bear, which consist of:
1 head (stuff firmly and complete)
1 body
1 nose
2 ears
4 limbs
Remember to leave a long yarn end (about 6-8″) for every part so that you will have enough yarn
to sew.
You need 2 black beads (I used about 5.5mm or 7/32″ to match the size of the head I
crocheted).
Tapestry needle and scissor.
Find the appropriate positions for the ears, approx at

the center of the vertical cross section of the head, middle of the height.
Sew to attach the nose in the center between the 2
ears.
Sew eyes 2 stitches away from the nose.
Stuff the body firmly and sew it to the bottom of the

head.
Lastly, stuff and sew the limbs to the body. ~~Done~~
CANGREJO
Grado dificultad:
Bajo
Patrón:
Este muñeco es un amigurumi cangrejo, es mut fácil de hacer y lo podeis usar como
llavero, o para colgarlo en el coche,etc...
Si te estás iniciando en el mundo de los amigurumis, podrás ver las nociones básicas en
nuestro canal de youtube.
Tiempo estimado de realización: 1h15min
Aquí podeis ver el videotutorial de este muñeco
CUERPO
En naranja
Vuelta 1: Hacer un anillo mágico de 6 puntos (6 puntos)
Vuelta 2: 1 aumento en todos los puntos de la vuelta anterior (12 puntos)
Vuelta 3: 1 punto, 1 aumento. Repetir hasta el final de la vuelta (18 puntos)
Vuelta 4: 2 puntos, 1 aumento. Repetir hasta el final de la vuelta (24 puntos)
Vueltas 7 a 10: 1 punto en todos los puntos de la vuelta anterior (36 puntos)
Vuelta 11: 4 puntos, 1 disminución. Repetir hasta el final de la vuelta (30 puntos)
Vuelta 12: 1 punto en todos los puntos de la vuelta anterior (30 puntos)
Vuelta 15: 1 punto, 1 disminución. Repetir hasta el final de la vuelta (12 puntos)
Rellenar con algodón sintético
Vuelta 16: 6 disminuciones (6 puntos)
Cerrar el tejido
PATAS
En naranja (hacer 4 iguales)

Vuelta 2: 1 aumento en todos los puntos (8 puntos)
Cerrar con un punto deslizado y dejar un trozo largo de hilo para poder coser luego al
cuerpo
PINZA
En naranja (hacer 2 iguales)

Hacer 2 cadenetas y unir con la otra mitad de lapinza en el punto 8. Hacer un punto en
todos los puntos de la mitad de la pinza (8 puntos). Ir haciendo disminuciones hasta que
quede la pinza cerrada. Cortar el hilo y engancharlo en la otra mitad de la pina y repetir el
procedimiento desde los 8 puntos. Cerrar el tejido y dejar un trozo largo de hilo para poder
coser luego al cuerpo. Pasamos el hilo a través de la pinza hasta que salga por el anillo
mágico
OJOS
En blanco
Rellenar con algodón sintético (Rellenar un ojo más que el otro para que queden un poco
desiguales)
Vuelta 6: 6 disminuciones (6 puntos)
Cerrar el tejido y dejar un trozo largo de hilo para poder coser luego al cuerpo
Coser todas las partes al cuerpo y hacer en lana negra los detalles de la boca y los ojos
GATO GRANDE
Grado dificultad:
Alto
Patrón:
Tiempo estimado de realización 4h30min
Aquí podeis ver la primera parte del videotutorial de este gato
CUERPO

Vuelta 8: 6 puntos, 1 augmento. Repetir hasta el final de la vuelta (48 puntos)
Vuelta 13: 10 puntos, 4 aumentos, 20 puntos, 4 aumentos, 10 puntos (56 puntos)
Vuelta 14: 11 puntos, 1 aumento, 5 puntos, 1 aumento, 21 puntos, 1 aumento, 5 puntos, 1
aumento, 10 puntos (60 puntos)
Vuelta 15: 14 puntos, 2 aumentos, 27 puntos, 2 aumentos, 15 puntos (64 puntos)
Vueltas 16 y 17: 1 punto en todos los puntos de la vuelta anterior (64 puntos)
Vuelta 18: 14 puntos, 2 disminuciones, 27 puntos, 2 disminuciones, 15 puntos (60 puntos)
Vuelta 19: 11 puntos, 1 disminución, 2 puntos, 1 disminución, 2 puntos, 1 disminución, 19
puntos, 1 disminución, 2 puntos, 1 disminución, 2 puntos, 1 disminución, 10 puntos (54
puntos)
Vuelta 20: 10 puntos, 4 disminuciones, 18 puntos, 4 disminuciones, 10 puntos (46 puntos)
Vuelta 23: 6 puntos, 1 disminución. Repetir hasta el final de la vuelta. Terminar con 6
puntos (41 puntos)
Vuelta 24: 5 puntos, 1 disminución. Repetir hasta el final de la vuelta. Terminar con 6
puntos (36 puntos)
Colocar los ojos de seguridad y la nariz de seguridad
Rellenar la cabeza con algodón sintético
Vuelta 54: En la vuelta de atrás de los puntos. 5 puntos, 1 disminución. Repetir hasta el
final de la vuelta (36 puntos)
Rellenar con algodón sintético
Vuelta 59: 6 disminuciones
Cerrar el tejido
Aquí podeis ver la segunda parte del videotutorial de este gato
OREJAS

COLA

Vueltas 3 a 36: 1 punto en todos los puntos de la vuelta anterio (12 puntos)
Ir rellenando con algodón sintético a medida que se hace la cola, ya que al final se hace un
poco complicado rellenarla de golpe
PATAS TRASERAS
Vuelta 1: Hacer 5 cadenetas

Vuelta 2: 3 medios puntos, 1 aumento triple, 2 medios puntos, 1 aumento (10 puntos)
Vuelta 3: 1 aumento, 2 medios puntos, 3 aumentos, 2 medios puntos, 2 aumentos, (16
puntos)
Vuelta 4 a 7: 1 punto en todos los puntos de la vuelta anterior (16 puntos)
Vuelta 8: 2 puntos, 3 disminuciones, 3 puntos, 3 aumentos, 2 puntos (16 puntos)
Vuelta 9: 2 puntos, 3 disminuciones, 3 puntos, 3 aumentos, 2 puntos (16 puntos)
Vuelta 10: 7 medios puntos, 7 medias varetas, 2 puntos (16 puntos)
Vuelta 11: 6 puntos, 8 medias varetas, 2 puntos (16 puntos)
Vuelta 12: 8 puntos, 3 medias varetas, 2 varetas, 3 medias varetas (16 puntos)
Vuela 13: 11 medios puntos, 2 aumentos, 3 medios puntos (18 puntos)
Vuelta 14: 12 medios puntos, 3 aumentos, 3 puntos (21 puntos)
Vuelta 15: 2 puntos, 3 disminuciones, 4 puntos, 1 aumento, 1 punto, 1 aumento, 1 punto, 1
aumento, 1 punto, 1 aumento, 2 puntos (22 puntos)
Vuelta 16: 2 puntos, 2 disminuciones, 5 puntos, 1 aumento, 1 punto, 1 aumento, 1 punto, 1
aumento, 1 punto, 1 aumento, 4 puntos (24 puntos)
Vuelta 19 a 24 : 1 punto en todos los puntos de la vuelta anterior (30 puntos)
Rellenar ocn algodón sintético. No rellenar demasiado ya que no tiene que quedar muy
apretado para poder darle la forma de pata
Vuelta 28: 6 disminuciones
Cerrar el tejido y dejar un trozo largo de hilo para poder coser luego al cuerpo
PATAS DELANTERAS
Vuelta 1: Hacer 5 cadenetas

Vuelta 2: 3 medios puntos, 1 aumento triple, 2 medios puntos, 1 aumento (10 puntos)
Vuelta 3: 1 aumento, 2 medios puntos, 3 aumentos, 2 medios puntos, 2 aumentos (16
puntos)
Vueltas 4 a 29 : 1 punto en todos los puntos de la vuelta anterior (16 puntos)
Amigurumi Yorkie Tutorial

Novice Sandy on Knitting Paradise found this absolutely adorable pattern for an
Amigurumi Yorkie. The only problem is the pattern is incomprehensible. I
think it was originally written in Japanese and the translation is really
bad. Fortunately, I have crocheted some amigurumi patterns using the
Japanese chart method so I get what's going on here, so here is my
translation. I did have to change a few things here and there, but I think it's
pretty true to the original pattern.
Materials:
 Red Heart Super Saver Yarn, worsted weight, Warm Brown

 C or size 2 Hook
 Stitch Marker
 Polyfil Stuffing
 Embroidery Floss in light browns, beiges, dark yellows and black
 Red Heart Shimmer, Black
 Lion Brand, Vanna's Glamour, Topaz
 2 round black shank buttons
 Tapestry Needle
Abbreviations:
Rnd--round ch(s)--chain(s) sc(s) single crochet(s) st(s)--stitch(es)
sc2tog--single crochet 2 stitches together
Head
Start with a magic circle
Rnd 1: Ch 1, 6 scs in circle (6scs)
From now on put a stitch marker in the first sc of each rnd.
Rnd 2: 2 scs in each sc (12 scs)

Rnd 3: 1 sc in sc, 2 scs in next sc (18 scs)
Rnd 4: 1 sc in next 2 scs, 2 scs in next sc (24 scs)
Rnd 8: 1 sc in each sc (42 scs)
Rnd 10-11: 1 sc in each sc (48 scs)
Now you start to decrease, continue putting stitch marker in first st of each rnd.
Rnd 12: 1 sc in next 5 scs, sc2tog in next sc (42 scs)
Start stuffing, but stuff loosely enough so you can shape the head.
Rnd 19: 1 sc in next sc, sc2tog (12 scs)
Rnd 20: 6 sc2togs, (6 scs)
Fasten off. Leave bottom open for sewing later. Shape head into an oval.
Body:
Start with a magic circle
Rnd 1: ch 1, 6 scs in circle (6 scs)

Rnd 3: 1 sc in next sc, 2 scs in next sc (18 scs)
Rnd 9: 1 sc in next 6 scs, 2 scs in next scs (48 scs)
Start to decrease
Rnd 12: 1 sc in next 6 scs, sc2tog (42 scs)
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing later.

Stuff, but don't sew up the hole.
Front Legs:
Make 2
Make a magic circle

Place a stitch marker in the first st of each rnd

Rnd 2: 2 scs per sc (12 scs)
Start decreasing
Stuff foot.
Rnd 7: sc2tog, 1 sc in next 4 scs, sc2tog, 1 sc in next 4 scs (10 scs)
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing in, stuff the leg near the foot, but not at
the top.
Hind legs:
Make 2
Make a magic circle

Put a stitch marker in the first st of each row.

Start decreasing
Rnd 7: sc2tog 3 times, sc in rest of scs (13 scs)
Rnd 8: sc2tog once, 1 sc in sc in rest of sts (12 scs)
Flatten right side on one leg and left side on the other leg. Partially stuff.

Start stuffing the leg as you finish up.
Rnd 14: sc2tog, 1 sc in next sc (6 scs)
Rnd 15: sc2tog all the way around to close (3 scs)
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Ears:
Make 2
Make a magic circle


Rnd 2: 1 sc per sc (4 scs)
Rnd 4: 1 sc per sc (8 scs)
Rnd 7: 2 scs in first sc, 1 sc in rest of scs (13 scs)
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing later. Fold ear, don't stuff.
Tail:
Make a magic circle
Rnd 1: ch 1, 5 scs in magic circle (5 scs)

Rnd 3: 2 scs in first sc, 1 sc in next, 2 scs in next sc, 1 sc in next 2 scs (7 scs)
Rnd 4-7: 1 sc in each sc (7 sc)
Rnd 8: *2 scs in first sc, 1 sc* 3 times, 1 sc in next 2 scs (10 scs)
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing in.

Muzzle:
Make a magic circle.

Rnd 5-7: 1 sc in each sc (18 scs) 5,6,
Rnd 8: *2 scs in next sc* 4 times, sc in next 14 scs (22 scs)
Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing in. Stuff muzzle.
Finishing:
Sew muzzle to the head.
Sew front legs to body.

I tacked the legs down mid way to help the dog stand upright
and then the head to the body.
Sew the hind legs onto the body
Sew the tail onto the body

Sew on the ears with the fold to the back.
Weave in yarn ends.
Now start to attach embroidery floss and shimmer yarn. I used full strands. If
you want to anchor the hair so it won't fall out, here is a good tutorial on how
to do doll hair.
It helps to have a picture of a Yorkie. Here is a good photo or you can use
the photo on the original pattern.
Embroider the nose.

Trim floss to make it even
Sew some yarn at the base of the snout and pull it back between the ears and
then tie it back. You can also use ribbon. Then sew on the buttons for the
eyes.
Here's how it looks from the back. The black fur is the black shimmer yarn.
atron delfín traducido
Parte de abajo del cuerpo
Empezando por el morro con el color A, hacemos 2 cadenetas. Trabajamos en filas.
Fila 1: 2 pb en la segunda cad
Filas 2-3: 1 cad, pb en cada punto.

Filas 4-5: 1 cad, 1 aum, 1 pb (3 pb).
Fila 6: 1 cad, 1 aum,.1 pb, 1 aum (5 pb)
Fila 7: 1 cad, 1 aum, 3pb, 1 aum (7pb)
Fila 8: 1 cad, 1 aum, 5 pb, 1 aum. ( 9 pb ).
Fila 9: 1 cad, pb en cada punto.
Fila 10: 1 cad, 1 aum, 7 pb, 1 aum (11 pb ).
Filas 11 - 27: 1 cad, pb en cada punto
Fila 28: 1 cad, 1 dism , 7 pb, 1 dism. ( 9 pb ).
Fila 31: 1 cad, 1 dism, 5 pb, 1 dism. ( 7 pb ).
Fila 34: 1 cad, 1dism. 3 pb, 1 dism. ( 5 pb ).
Fila 47: 1 cad, pb en cada punto, 9 cad.
Cola:
Fila 48: pe en la segunda cad, 2 pb, 1 mpa, 4 pa ( primera media parte de la cola hecha ), 5 pa,
9 cad, giramos, pe en la segunda cad, 2 pb, 1 mpa, 4 pa ( segunda media parte de la cola
hecha ),
Pe al final de la fila, pb en la fila 47
Rematamos
Parte de arriba del cuerpo
Empezando por el morro, con color B, hacemos 2 cad.
Fila 1: 1 cad, 2 pb en la segunda cad ( 2 pb ).
Fila 2: 1 cad, pb en cada punto. ( 2 pb ).
Fila 3: 1 cad, 1 aum, 1 pb. ( 3 pb ).
Fila 4: 1 cad, 1 pb, 1 aum, 1 pb. ( 4 pb ).
Fila 5: 1 cad, 1 pb, 2 aum, 1 pb ( 6 pb ).
Fila 6: 1 cad, 1 pb, 4 aum, 1 pb. ( 10 pb).

Fila 21: 1 cad, 1 dism, 20 pb, 1dism. ( 22 pb ).
Fila 24: 1 cad, 1 dism, 16 pb , 1 dism ( 18 pb ).
Fila 31: 1 cad, 1 dis, 10 pb, 1 dism. ( 12 pb ).
Fila 47: 1 cad, 2 pb, 1 dism, 2 pb last 2 sc, 9 cad. ( 5 pb ).
Cola:
Fila 48: pe en la segunda cad, 2 pb, 1 mpa, 4 pa ( primera media parte de la cola hecha ), 5 pa,
9 cad, giramos, pe en la segunda cad, 2 pb, 1 mpa, 4 pa, ( segunda media parte de la cola
hecha ), pe al final de la fila, pb en la fila 47. Rematamos.
Con los lados del derecho enfrentados, cosemos la parte de abajo del cuerpo a la parte de
arriba, empezamos por la fila 30 y trabajando alrededor de la cola hasta el lado contrario de la
fila 30. Damos la vuelta al tejido, para que este en el lado correcto. Rellenamos el cuerpo y
continuamos rellenando mientras cosemos los dos lados del cuerpo.
Aleta de arriba: ( hacemos 2 ): Empezamos por la parte de abajo, con color B, 9 cad.
Fila 1: pb en cada cad. ( 8 pb ).
Fila 3: 1 cad ( 1 dism ) 2 veces, 4 pb. ( 6 pb ).
Fila 4: 1 cad, 4 pb, 1 dism. ( 5 pb ).
Fila 5: 1 cad, 1 dism, 3 pb. ( 4 pb ).
Fila 6: 1 cad, 2 pb. ( 3 pb ).
Fila 7: 1 cad, 1 aum, Ch 2 pb. ( 4 pb ).
Fila 8: 1 cad, 1 dism, 2 pb, 1 aum. ( 4 pb ).
Fila 9 :1 cad, 1 aum, 1 pb, 1. ( 4 pb ).
Fila 10: 1 cad, 1 dism, 1 pb, 3pb en el ultimo punto .Rematamos. ( 5 pb ).
Con los dos lados del derecho enfrentados, usando el color B cosemos las dos mitades de la
aleta de de arriba.
Aletas de los lados: ( hacemos 2): con color B hacemos 5 cad
Vuelta 1: pb en la segunda cad, pb en los 2 siguientes puntos, 3 pb en la siguiente cad,

trabajando por el otro lado de la cad hacemos pb en los 3 siguientes puntos, no unimos. ( 10 pb
). Continuamos trabajando en espiral, marcando el principio de cada vuelta.
Vuelta 2. 1 cad, pb en cada punto ( 10 pb ).
Vuelta 3: 1 cad, * 1 aum, 4 pb * repetimos alrededor *. ( 12 pb ).
Vueltas 4-7: 1 cad, pb en cada punto.
Vuelta 8: 1 cad, * 1 aum, 5 pb * repetimos alrededor. ( 14 pb ).
Vuelta 9: 1 cad, pb en cada punto. Rematamos.

Hello Kitty: Abeja
Traducido al español por Rani para
http://amigurumies.blogspot.com
Fuente: http://www.amigurumisweb.com2
Patrón de Hello Kitty: Abeja
Terminología:
pb punto bajo
pc punto de cadeneta
pe punto enano
aum aumentar
dim disminuir
rep repetir
mpa medio punto alto
pa punto alto
dpa doble punto alto
Cabeza:
Hacer en blanco una cadeneta de 11 puntos.
1: 9pb, 3pb en el último pc, (girar la pieza) 8pb, 2pb en el último pc (22)
2: 1aum, 8pb, 3aum, 8pb, 2aum (28)
3: 1aum, 9pb, 1aum, 1pb, 1aum, 1pb, 1aum, 9pb, 1aum, 1pb,1aum, 1pb (34)
9 -15: 1pb en cada pb (64)
16: 1dim, 14pb, 1dim, 6pb, 1dim, 6pb, 1dim, 14pb, 1dim, 6pb,1dim, 6pb (58)
17: 1pb en cada pb (58)
24: 1dim, 8pb, 1dim, 2pb, 1dim, 8pb, 1dim, 2pb (24)
Rellenar y coser al cuerpo.
Orejas (x2):
En blanco.
1: 6pb en un anillo mágico (6)
2: 1aum, 1pb, rep todo alrededor (9)
3: 1pb, 1aum, 2pb, 1aum, 2pb, 1aum, 1pb (12)

Dejar suficiente hilo para la costura. Hacer 2, rellenarlos y coserlos a la cabeza. 3
Cuerpo
Empezamos con amarillo,
1: 6pb en un anillo mágico
2: 6aum (12)
3: “1aum, 1pb” rep todo alrededor (18)
5: “3pb, 1aum” rep todo alrededor (30)
10 – 12: cambio de color a negro, 1pb en cada pb (48)
13: cambio a amarillo, “6pb, 1dim” rep todo alrededor (42)
15-16: cambio a negro, 1pb en cada pb (42)
17: “5pb, 1dim” rep todo alrededor (36)
18: cambio a amarillo, 1pb en cada pb (36)
Dejar suficiente hilo para la costura. Rellenar y coser a la cabeza.
Brazos (x2):
En blanco.
2: 6aum (12)
3: 1pb, 1aum, rep todo alrededor (18)
5: 4pb, 1dim, rep todo alrededor (15)
6 – 9: 1pb en cada pb (15)
10: 2pb, 1dim, 3pb, 1dim, 3pb, 1dim, 1pb (12)
11 y 12: 1pb en cada pb (12)
13: 1pb, 1dim, 2pb, 1dim, 2pb, 1dim, 1pb (9)
14: 1pb, 1dim todo alrededor (6)
Dejar suficiente hilo para la costura. Rellenarlos y coserlos al cuerpo.
Pies (x2):
En blanco hacer una cadeneta de 9 puntos.
1: 7pb, 3pb en el último pc, (girar la pieza) 6pb, 2pb en el último pc (18)
2: 1aum, 6pb, 1aum, 1pb, 1aum, 6pb, 1aum, 1pb (24)
3: 1aum, 7pb, 1aum, 1pb, 2aum, 8pb, 2aum, 1pb (30)
4: 9pb, 1dim 1pb, 1dim, 1pb, 1dim, 13pb (27)
Dejar suficiente hilo para la costura. Hacer 2, rellenarlos y coserlos al cuerpo.
Cola:
En blanco.
2: 6aum (12)
3 – 5: 1pb en cada pb (12)
Dejar suficiente hilo para la costura. Rellenarla y coserla al cuerpo. 4
Antenas (x2):
En naranja.
2: 6aum (12)
3 – 4: 1pb en cada pb (12)
5: 6dim (6)
Unir a la cabeza con un alambre o tubito.
Alas
En azul. 2 partes, hay que hacer 2 de cada:
parte 1: grande
Hacer una cadeneta de 4 pc,
1: 2pb, 3 en el último pc, (girar) 1pb, 1aum en el último pc (8)
2: 1aum, 1pb, 3aum, 1pb, 2aum (14)
3: 1aum, 2pb, 2mpa en el mismo pb, 1pa, 2pa en el mismo pb, 1pa, 2pa en el mismo pb, 2mpa,
1aum, 1pb, 1aum, 1pb (20)
parte 2: pequeña.
Hacer una cadeneta de 4 pc,
1: 2pb, 3 en el último pc, (girar) 1pb, 1aum en el último pc (8)
2: 3pc, 2pa en el mismo pb, 1mpa, 3aum, 1mpa, 2pa en el mismo pb, 2pa en el último pb (14)
Flores (x2):
Empezamos en amarillo.
2:”1pb, 1aum” rep todo alrededor (15)
Cambio a rosa,
4: “3pc, 1dpa, 2dpa en el mismo punto, (1dpa, 2pc, 1pe) en el mismo punto” rep 5 veces
Unir a la cabeza
Mariquita:
En rojo
1: 6pb en un anillo mágico
2: 6aum (12)
Añadir en fieltro negro los puntos del lomo y un medio círculo para la cabeza (basaros en la
imagen)
Acabado
• Coser todas las partes.
• Bordar los pelos del bigote.
• Cortar y pegar ojos y nariz de fieltro y en caso de no tenerlo, bordárselos.

Más patrones
Dolphin Amigurumi Pattern

Patrón de Amigurumi delfín
Finalmente he terminado, un patrón de amigurumi
delfín gratis! Es un amigurumi muy sencillo y divertido
para hacer, así que espero que todo el mundo disfruta!
Delfín-amigurumi-1
• Materiales:
-Hilados de peso deporte en bebé azul y blanco
-Gancho de crochet tamaño F/3.75 mm
-1 par de ojos de seguridad negro sólido de 9 mm.
-Aguja de tapiz Romo
-Tijeras
-Relleno de su elección
• Cuerpo:
Usando hilo azul celeste,
R1: Ch 2, 6 sc en st segundo gancho – 6 de sts
R2: 2 sc en cada st alrededor – 12 sts
R3: 1 sc, 2 sc en el siguiente st (repetir todo) – 18 sts
R5 – R9: sc en cada st alrededor – 24 sts
Delfín-amigurumi-2
Cambiar al hilo blanco.
R10: 2 sc, 1 dic en próximo st (repetir todo) – 18 sts
Delfín-amigurumi-5
Inserte los ojos de seguridad negro sólido de 9 mm en la
cabeza. Inserte los ojos entre R8 y R9. Licencia 4 sts
entre los ojos de los ideales más espaciado.Fijar los ojos
en su lugar.
Delfín-amigurumi-4
Cosas del cuerpo con su elección de relleno.
Delfín-amigurumi-3
R12: 1 dec en cada st alrededor – 6 sts
Apriete off, dejando una larga cola.
Utilizando una aguja de tapiz Romo y la larga cola de
hilo, coser el agujero en la parte inferior del cuerpo
cerrado.
Delfín-amigurumi-12dolphin-amigurumi-11
Una vez que se cierra el agujero, ocultar la cola perdida
dentro del cuerpo. Con la punta de la tijera suavemente
cosas el extremo de la cola en el cuerpo.
Delfín-amigurumi-10
Con eso, el cuerpo está completado!
Delfín-amigurumi-9
• Hocico:
R1: Ch 2, 6 sc en segundo ch gancho – 6 de sts
R2: sc en cada st alrededor – 6 sts
R3: 2 sc en el siguiente 4 sts (deje las 2 últimas sts en el
vacío de la ronda) – 8 sts
Delfín-amigurumi-7
Coloque el hocico entre los ojos y cosa en su
lugar. Coloque el hocico para que la parte inferior más
ancha mitad hacia abajo y menor la mitad superior
quede hacia arriba.
Terminar de coser el hocico en el lugar en el cuerpo.
• Aletas (hacer 2 de ellos):
Apriete off, dejando una larga cola. Pellizcar cada pieza
por la mitad para que forman semicírculos.
Usando la aguja de tapiz Romo, coser las aletas en los
lados del cuerpo. Me gusta colocar las aletas más hacia
la parte posterior del cuerpo, en lugar de exactamente a
los lados. Parece más está nadando en esta posición!
Una vez cosidas, debe tener este aspecto.
Repita el mismo proceso con la otra aleta. Asegúrese de
que la posición de la aleta en el cuerpo tan
simétricamente como sea posible. Vuelva a colocar
tantas veces como sea necesario para lograr la posición
más simétrica.
Ahora, debe tener 2 aletas!
• Aleta superior:
Apriete off, dejando una larga cola. Pellizque la pieza
por la mitad para formar un semicírculo como las aletas
laterales.
Coser la aleta en la parte superior del cuerpo. Tambaleó
la aleta ligeramente debajo del centro de la parte
superior, sólo para darle un poco más de estilo.
Delfín-amigurumi-2
• Cola:
R3: 1 sc, 2 sc en el siguiente st alrededor – 9 sts
Apriete off, dejando una larga cola. No rellene la
cola. La forma debe parecerse a un cono.
Coser la cola en el extremo posterior del cuerpo.
• Aleta de la cola:
CH 2, 6 CC en ch segundo gancho. La forma debe
parecerse a un pequeño ventilador. Apriete off, dejando
una larga cola.
Coser la aleta de la cola en la punta de la cola.
Tejer en cualquier extremos aislados.
Eso es todo! Haya terminado!
¡ Disfrute!
I have finally finished it – a free dolphin amigurumi

pattern! It’s a very simple and fun amigurumi to make,
so I hope everyone enjoys it!
dolphin-amigurumi-1
 Materials:
- Sport weight yarn in baby blue and white
- Size F/3.75 mm crochet hook
- 1 pair of 9 mm solid black safety eyes
- Blunt tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Stuffing of your choice
 Body:
Using baby blue yarn,
R1: Ch 2, 6 sc in second st from hook – 6 sts
R2: 2 sc in each st around – 12 sts
R3: 1 sc, 2 sc in next st (repeat around) – 18 sts
R4: 2 sc, 2 sc in next st (repeat around) – 24 sts
R5 – R9: sc in each st around – 24 sts
dolphin-amigurumi-2
Switch to white yarn.
R10: 2 sc, 1 dec in next st (repeat around) – 18 sts
R11: 1 sc, 1 dec in next st (repeat around) – 12 sts
dolphin-amigurumi-5
Insert the 9 mm solid black safety eyes into the
head. Insert the eyes between R8 and R9. Leave 4 sts in
between the eyes for the most ideal spacing. Fasten the
eyes in place.
dolphin-amigurumi-4
Stuff the body with your choice of stuffing.
dolphin-amigurumi-3
R12: 1 dec in each st around – 6 sts
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Using a blunt tapestry needle and the long tail of yarn,
sew the hole at the bottom of the body closed.
dolphin-amigurumi-12dolphin-amigurumi-11
Once the hole is closed, hide the stray tail inside of the
body. Using the tip of your scissors gently stuff the tail
end into the body.
dolphin-amigurumi-10
With that, the body is complete!
dolphin-amigurumi-9
 Snout:
R1: Ch 2, 6 sc in second ch from hook – 6 sts
R2: sc in each st around – 6 sts
R3: 2 sc in the next 4 sts (leave the last 2 sts in the round
empty) – 8 sts
Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
dolphin-amigurumi-7
Place the snout between the eyes and sew in
place. Position the snout so that the wider bottom half
faces down and the smaller top half faces up.
Finish sewing the snout in place onto the body.
 Fins (make 2 of these):
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Pinch each piece in half
so that they form semi-circles.
Using the blunt tapestry needle, sew the fins onto the
sides of the body. I like to place the fins more towards
the back of the body rather than exactly at the sides. It
looks more like it’s swimming in this position!
Once sewn, it should look like this.
Repeat the same process with the other fin. Be sure to
position the fin on the body as symmetrically as
possible. Re-position as many times as needed to achieve
the most symmetrical position.
Now, it should have 2 fins!
 Top Fin:
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Pinch the piece in half to
form a semi-circle like the side fins.
Sew the fin onto the top of the body. I staggered the fin
slightly below the center of the top, just to give it a little
more style.
dolphin-amigurumi-2
 Tail:
R3: 1 sc, 2 sc in next st around – 9 sts
R4: 2 sc, 2 sc in next st around – 12 sts
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Do not stuff the tail. The
shape should look like a cone.
Sew the tail onto the back end of the body.
Once sewn, it should look like this.
 Tail Fin:
Ch 2, 6 dc in second ch from hook. The shape should
resemble a small fan. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Sew the tail fin onto the tip of the tail.
Weave in any stray ends.
That’s it! You’re finished!
Enjoy!
http://www.cuteamigurumi.com/2012/02/22/dolphin-
amigurumi-pattern/
MIL DISCULPAS QUE NO HE PODIDO
TRADUCIRLO DESDE EL COMIENZO PERO ACA
VA IGUAL LA RADUCION... SALUDOS A MIS
AMIGAS--- SIGO BUSCANDO MATERIAL PARA MIS
AMIGAS..
Finalmente he terminado, un patrón de amigurumi
delfín gratis! Es un amigurumi muy sencillo y divertido
para hacer, así que espero que todo el mundo disfruta!
Delfín-amigurumi-1
• Materiales:
-Hilados de peso deporte en bebé azul y blanco
-Gancho de crochet tamaño F/3.75 mm
-1 par de ojos de seguridad negro sólido de 9 mm.
-Aguja de tapiz Romo
-Tijeras
-Relleno de su elección
• Cuerpo:
R1: Ch 2, 6 sc en st segundo gancho – 6 de sts
R5 – R9: sc en cada st alrededor – 24 sts
Delfín-amigurumi-2
Cambiar al hilo blanco.
Delfín-amigurumi-5
Inserte los ojos de seguridad negro sólido de 9 mm en la
cabeza. Inserte los ojos entre R8 y R9. Licencia 4 sts
entre los ojos de los ideales más espaciado.Fijar los ojos
en su lugar.
Delfín-amigurumi-4
Cosas del cuerpo con su elección de relleno.
Delfín-amigurumi-3
R12: 1 dec en cada st alrededor – 6 sts
Utilizando una aguja de tapiz Romo y la larga cola de
hilo, coser el agujero en la parte inferior del cuerpo
cerrado.
Delfín-amigurumi-12dolphin-amigurumi-11
Una vez que se cierra el agujero, ocultar la cola perdida
dentro del cuerpo. Con la punta de la tijera suavemente
cosas el extremo de la cola en el cuerpo.
Con eso, el cuerpo está completado!
Delfín-amigurumi-9
• Hocico:
R2: sc en cada st alrededor – 6 sts
R3: 2 sc en el siguiente 4 sts (deje las 2 últimas sts en el
vacío de la ronda) – 8 sts
Delfín-amigurumi-7
Coloque el hocico entre los ojos y cosa en su
lugar. Coloque el hocico para que la parte inferior más
ancha mitad hacia abajo y menor la mitad superior
quede hacia arriba.
Terminar de coser el hocico en el lugar en el cuerpo.
• Aletas (hacer 2 de ellos):
Apriete off, dejando una larga cola. Pellizcar cada pieza
por la mitad para que forman semicírculos.
Usando la aguja de tapiz Romo, coser las aletas en los
lados del cuerpo. Me gusta colocar las aletas más hacia
la parte posterior del cuerpo, en lugar de exactamente a
los lados. Parece más está nadando en esta posición!
Repita el mismo proceso con la otra aleta. Asegúrese de
que la posición de la aleta en el cuerpo tan
simétricamente como sea posible. Vuelva a colocar
tantas veces como sea necesario para lograr la posición
más simétrica.
Ahora, debe tener 2 aletas!
• Aleta superior:
Apriete off, dejando una larga cola. Pellizque la pieza
por la mitad para formar un semicírculo como las aletas
laterales.
Coser la aleta en la parte superior del cuerpo. Tambaleó
la aleta ligeramente debajo del centro de la parte
superior, sólo para darle un poco más de estilo.
Delfín-amigurumi-2
• Cola:
Apriete off, dejando una larga cola. No rellene la
cola. La forma debe parecerse a un cono.
Coser la cola en el extremo posterior del cuerpo.
• Aleta de la cola:
CH 2, 6 CC en ch segundo gancho. La forma debe
parecerse a un pequeño ventilador. Apriete off, dejando
una larga cola.
Coser la aleta de la cola en la punta de la cola.
Tejer en cualquier extremos aislados.
Eso es todo! Haya terminado!
¡ Disfrute!
Patrón para hacer un delfín amigurumi
Delfín amigurumi Delfín amigurumi

PARTE 1ª ZONA INFERIOR
Ir a parte 2ª (parte superior)
Ir a parte 3ª (aletas y montaje)
En la imagen esta todo el delfín con lana gris, pero se puede hacer esta parte de
otro color y conseguirás un efecto distinto.
- Hacer dos cadenetas

- 1ª Vuelta: 2p.b. en la 2ª cadeneta a partir del ganchillo.
- 2ª y 3ª Vuelta: 1 cadeneta., 1p.b. en cada p. hasta el fin.
- 4ª Vuelta: 1cad., 2p.b.en el p.siguiente, 1 p.b. en el siguiente.
- 5ª Vuelta: 1cad.,1p.b. en cada p.
- 6ª Vuelta: 1cad., 2p.b. en el p.siguiente, 1p.b.en p. el sig., 2p.b.en el último p.
- 7ª Vuelta: 1cad., 2p.b. en el p.siguiente, 1p.b.en los 3p. sig., 2p.b.en el último p.
- 8ª Vuelta: 1cad., 2p.b. en el p.siguiente, 1p.b.en los 5p. sig., 2p.b.en el último p.
- 9ª Vuelta: 1cad.,1p.b.en cada p. hasta el final.
-10ª Vuelta: 1cad., 2p.b. en el p.siguiente, 1p.b.en los 7p. sig., 2p.b.en el último p.
Imagen Parte inferior

-11ª a 27ª Vuelta: 1cad.,1p.b.en cada p. hasta el final.
-28ª Vuelta: 1cad., 2p.b.j, 1p.b. en los 7p. sig., 2p.b.j.
- 29 y 30ª Vuelta: 1cad.,1p.b.en cada p. hasta el final.
- 31ª Vuelta: 1cad., 2p.b.j, 1p.b. en los 5p. sig., 2p.b.j.
- 32 y 33ª Vuelta: 1cad.,1p.b.en cada p. hasta el final.
- 35 a 46ª Vuelta: 1cad.,1p.b.en cada p. hasta el final.
- 47ª Vuelta: 1cad.,1p.b.en cada p. hasta el final, 9cad.
- 48ª Vuelta (Cola): p.r. en la 2ªcad. a partir del ganchillo, 1p.b en las 2cad. sig., 1p.m. en la cad.
sig., 1p.a. en las 4cad. sig., 1p.a. en los 5p.sig., 9cad."", girar y repetir serie
subrayada. Retorcer laparte de atrás de la cola de forma que las puntas miren hacia el hocico y
1p.r. al final de la vuelta 47ª.
- Rematar.
Adelante (2ª parte)
PARTE 2ª ZONA SUPERIOR
Ver 1ª Parte (parte inferior)

Ver 3ª parte (aletas y montaje)
- Hacer dos cadenetas

- 1ª Vuelta: 2p.b. en la 2ª cadeneta a partir del ganchillo.
- 2ª Vuelta: 1 cadeneta., 1p.b. en cada p. hasta el fin.
- 3ª Vuelta: 1cad., 2p.b. en el primer p., 1p.b. en el siguiente
- 4ª Vuelta: 1cad., 1p.b.en el primer p., 2p.b. en el siguiente, 1p.b. en el último.
- 5ª Vuelta: 1cad., 1p.b. en el primer p., 2p.b. en cada uno de los siguientes 2p.,
1p.b. en el último.
- 8ª a 10ª Vuelta: 1cad., 1p.b. en cada p.
-11ª Vuelta: 1cad.,1p.b.en los 8 p.sig., 2p.b. en los 4p. sig., 1p.b en los 8p.
restantes.
- 17ª Vuelta: 1cad.,1p.b.en los 8 primeros p., 2p.b. en los 4p. sig., 1p.b. en los 8p.
restantes.
- 21ª Vuelta: 1cad., 2p.b.j. 1p.b. en los 20p. sig., 2p.b.j.
Imagen Parte Superior

- 23ª Vuelta: 1cad., 1p.b. en cada p.
- 25ª Vuelta: 1p.b. en cada p.
- 27ª y 28ª Vuelta: 1cad., 1p.b. en cada p.
- 33ª y 34ª Vuelta: 1cad., 1p.b. en cada p.
- 47ª Vuelta: 1cad., 1p.b. en los 2 primeros p. 2p.b.j. 1pb. en los 2 últimos, 9cad.
- 48ª Vuelta (Cola): p.r. en la 2ªcad. a partir del ganchilo,1p.b. en las 2cad. sig., 1p.m. en la sig,
1p.a. en las 4cad. sig., 1p.a. en los 5p. sig., 9cad., girar y
repetir subrayado, retorcer la parte trasera de la cola y p.r.en el último p.de la vuelta 47ª.
-Rematar.
3ª Parte, aletas y montaje del amigurumi.

Ver 1ª parte zona inferior
Ver 2ª parte zona superior
Aleta dorsal (x2)
- Hacemos 9 cad.
- 1ª Vuelta: 1p.b. en la segunda cad., 1p.b. en cada p. hasta el final.
- 3ª Vuelta: 1cad., 2p.b.j., otros 2p.b.j., 1p.b. en cada p. hasta el final
- 4ª Vuelta: 1cad., 1p.b. en los siguientes 4p., 2p.b.j.
Aleta dorsal
- 5ª Vuelta: 1cad., 2p.b.j., 1p.b. en los 3p.siguientes.
- 6ª Vuelta: 1cad., 1p.b. en los 3p. primeros, 2p.b.j.
- 7ª Vuelta: 1cad., 2p.b. en el primer p., 1p.b. en los 2p. siguientes.
- 8ª Vuelta: 1cad., 1p.b.j., 1p.b., 2p.b. en el último p.
- 9ª Vuelta: 1p.b., 2p.b. en el 1er.p., 1p.b. en el siguiente, 3p.b en el último p.
- 10ª Vuelta: 1cad., 2p.b.j., 1p.b. en el siguiete p. 3p.b. en el último p.
- Rematar.
-Coser las dos aletas casando las esquinas dejando la base abierta, rellenar sin
apretar.
Aletas laterales (x2)
- 6cad.
- 1ª Vuelta: 1p.b. en la segunda cad. a partir del ganchillo, 1pb. en los 3p.
siguientes, 2p.b. en el siguiente, trabajando por el lado opuesto a la cad. base
1p.b. en los 4p siguientes, dejar sin unir.
Seguir trabajando en espiral, marcando el comienzo de cada vuelta con
una hebra o un marcador.
Aletas laterales
- 3ª Vuelta: 1cad., 2p.b. en 1er.p., 1p.b. en los 4p siguientes ,
repetir subrayado una vez.
- 4 a 7ª Vuelta: 1cad., 1p.b. en cada p.
- 8ª Vuelta: 1cad., 2p.b. en el 1er.p., 1p.b. en los 5p.siguientes,
repetir subrayado una vez.
- Rematar.
- Aplastar las aletas.
Montaje
Cuerpo:
Coser la parte inferior y la superior comenzando en la vuelta 30 trabajando alrededor de la cola
hasta el otro lado de la vuelta 30, aquí puedes insertar los ojos o si prefieres bordarlos al final,
separándolos unos 5cm., rellenar el cuerpo y seguir cosiendo y rellenando hasta cerrar el cuerpo.
Aleta dorsal:
Con la punta mirando hacia la cola coserla en el centro del dorso del cuerpo a unos 12cm de la
punta del hocico.
Aletas laterales:
Coserlas al cuerpo sobre las costuras laterales a unos 8cm aprox. de la punta del hocico.
A unos 5cm de la punta del hocico bordar los ojos o coserlos separandolos del centro del dorso
entre 2-2'5cm a cada lado para que queden separados entre ellos unos 4-5cm.
A disfrutarlo...
Minnie Bebé Rosa Personalizada con Letra
Azucena, lo prometido es deuda!!!
Ya puedes encontrar el patrón en la página de patrones, lo único que te pido es que visites mi pagina de
Facebook y des al “me gusta” en la página
Mil gracias
Este es otro amigurumi para el reto del Ático
Azucena te pongo aquí el patrón de la cabeza, si lo quieres completo pídemelo por mail, no encuentro
donde cargar archivos de texto o pdf en el blog (aún no lo controlo demasiado) TERMINOLOGÍA pb
punto bajo pc punto de cadeneta pe punto enano aum aumentar dim disminuir rep repetir
CABEZA (Color carne) 1. 6pb en un anillo mágico (6) 2. 6aum (12) 3. 1pb-1aum (rep) (18) 4. 2pb-1aum
(rep) (24) 5. 3pb-1aum (rep) (30) 6. 4pb-1aum (rep) (36) 7. 5pb-1aum (rep) (42) 8. 6pb-1aum (rep) (48) 9.
7pb-1aum (rep) (54) 10. 8pb-1aum (rep) (60) 11. 9pb-1aum (rep) (66) 12. -18. Hacer 7 vueltas de 66 pb
19. 9pb-1dim (rep) (60) 20.-22. Hacer 3 vueltas de 60 pb 23. 20pb/1pb-1aum (rep 5 veces) (rep) (70) 24.-
27. Hacer 4 vueltas de 70 pb 28. 20pb/1pb-1dim (rep 5 veces) (rep) (60) 29. 6pb-1dim (rep) 3pb (54) 30.
3pb-1dim (rep) (43) 31. 2pb-1dim (rep) 1pb-1dim (32) 32. 1pb-1dim (rep) (21) 33. Hacer 1 vuelta de 21 pb
34. amp en todos los puntos (42) 35. Hacer 1 vuelta de 42 pb y cerrar. Rellenar y dejar para unir al cuerpo
MORRO (Color carne) 1. 6pb en un anillo mágico (6) 2. 6aum (12) 3. 1pb-1aum (rep) (18) 4. 2pb-1aum
(rep) (24) 5. 3pb-1aum (rep) (30)
Página 3 de 6
6.-8. Hacer 3 vueltas de 30 pb 9. 12pb-3dim-12pb (27) 10.-12. Hacer 3 vueltas de 27 pb y cerrar, rellenar y
coser a la cabeza NARIZ (Color negro) 1. 6pb en un anillo mágico (6) 2. 6aum (12) 3. 1pb-1aum (rep) (18)
4.-6. Hacer 3 vueltas de 18 pb y cerrar. Rellenar y unir al centro del morro ligeramente inclinado hacia
arriba. Bordar la boca debajo del morro OJOS (Color blanco y negro) Hacer dos de cada (Color blanco) 1.
Hacer una cadeneta de 4pc 2. 2pb, 3pb en el último punto (girar la pieza) 3. 2pb-1amp/2pb-1amp/1pb-
1amp/2pb-3amp/1pb y cerrar (Color negro) 1. Hacer una cadeneta de 3pc 2. 1pb-1amp/1pb-1amp y
cerrar Unir las dos partes de los ojos y coser un puntito blanco en el iris; coser a la cara pegados al morro
y bordar tres pestañas a cada uno
PELO-CABEZA (Color negro) 1. 6pb en un anillo mágico (6) 2. 6aum (12) 3. 1pb-1aum (rep) (18) 4. 2pb-
1aum (rep) (24) 5. 3pb-1aum (rep) (30) 6. 4pb-1aum (rep) (36) 7. 5pb-1aum (rep) (42) 8. 6pb-1aum (rep)
(48) 9. 7pb-1aum (rep) (54) 10. 8pb-1aum (rep) (60) 11. 9pb-1aum (rep) (66) 12. -21. Hacer 10 vueltas de
66 pb 22. 2 puntos dobles o pilares en la misma cadena-2 puntos triples o pilares en la misma cadena- 2
puntos cuadruples o pilares en la misma cadena-2 puntos quintuples o pilares en la misma cadena-2
puntos cuadruples-2 puntos triples-2 puntos dobles-6pb (rep) 2 puntos dobles o pilares en la misma
cadena-2 puntos triples o pilares en la misma cadena- 2 puntos cuadruples o pilares en la misma cadena-
2 puntos quintuples o pilares en la misma cadena-2 puntos cuadruples-2 puntos triples-2 puntos dobles y
hacer el resto de pb hasta llegar a los primeros aumentos. Cerrar hacer las orejas, unirlas y coser a la
cabeza
Página 4 de 6
OREJAS (Color negro) Hacer dos 1. 6pb en un anillo mágico (6) 2. 6aum (12) 3. 1pb-1aum (rep) (18) 4.
2pb-1aum (rep) (24) 5. 3pb-1aum (rep) (30) 6. 4pb-1aum (rep) (36) 7. 5pb-1aum (rep) (42) 8.-12. Hacer 5
vueltas de 42 pb 13. 5pb-1dim (rep) (36) 14. 4pb-1dim (rep) (30) 15. 3pb-1dim (rep) (24) 16. 2pb-1dim
(rep) (18) 17. 1pb-1dim (rep) (12) y cerrar, rellenar un poco para poder darle forma y dar unas puntaditas
en el centro de la oreja para que quede ligeramente plegada. Coser en los lados del pelo
LAZO (Color rosa) 1. 6pb en un anillo mágico (6) 2. 6aum (12) 3. 1pb-1aum (rep) (18) 4. 2pb-1aum (rep)
(24) 5. 3pb-1aum (rep) (30) 6.-11. Hacer 6 vueltas de 30 pb y cerrar. Hacer otro igual. Rellenarlos y cerrar
por el lateral Centro del lazo 1. Hacer 1 cadeneta de 6pc 2. Dar la vuelta y hacer 5pb (rep 9 veces, en total
10 vueltas de 5pb) 3. Unir a una de las piezas del lazo, rellenar y unir a la otra
Legend of Zelda – Toon Link Play Set with

Pattern
Posted 08/09/2010
Amigurumi Patterns - Videogames
He has a sword and shield
Nintendo’s The Legend of Zelda : the Wind Waker is probably my favorite of the
Zelda games. It’s a beautiful game with a great story, good music and a funny,
weird, cute and fabulous bunch of characters. Toon Link is really expressive,
cute but not too cute, child like and innocent but not over the top. I love it, but
more importantly this game my kid has loved and played since she was 4, it’s
one of her favorite childhood videogames and for that it has a special place in
my heart and has cemented the Gamecube as a staple of our household. Toon
Link has been the focus of several DS games, but I really hope Nintendo brings
him out of console retirement soon.
This pattern has been a long time in the making and I dare say rivals my
Bouncer in terms of intricate pieces and annoying details. If I had lots of spare
time or was in prison or some such place, I’d go for different coloured Four
Swords Links and add more accessories and enemies and of course Zelda, but
for now this set is it. Some parts and details are optional and the accessories
can be left out if you want to cut corners. I share the pattern for the whole
thing, but be warned, it’s really long and may have some parts seeming
complicated or confusing.
A Link was requested several times in the videogame thread so for those who
asked, I am pleased to say, here you go If you tackle it and have questions
or notice mistakes, let me know but if you could please use the comments,
rather than contact me via email, other people who may experience similar
head scratching will see your question and my answer, so it’s win-win.
Poseable!
His sword goes in a sleeve on his back.
It was so hard to pick an expression.
Shield is removable.
Inspired by Wind Waker

Hairdo was hard to capture...
What big eyes you have?
Red ChuChu
Link wants Jelly
Oink oink!
Legend of Zelda - Toon Link Amigurumi
Needs more pigs.
Sword and Shield
Link and his bomb.
Nefarious intent.
This set was made with a 3.5mm hook going through both loops unless
otherwise noted. The eyes and shield details are felt and all other details are
embroidery. Arms and legs should be wired.
Yarn Colours Used
Off White
Sunshine
Apple Green
Emerald
Silver Grey
Platinum *
Chocolate
White
Country Rose
Red
Pilgrim Peach
Delft Blue
Hot Pink
Grape
SC = Single Crochet
DC = Double Crochet
SL ST = Slip Stitch
Treble = Treble Crochet or Triple Crochet stitch
INVDEC = Invisible Decrease
INC = Increase (2 SC in one stitch unless otherwise noted)
General Assembly Notes

The body should be done first, attach legs complete with boots and boot details
already done, then slip on vest and attach arms while vest is already on, hiding
stitches under the vest. Do not attach head to neck until the vest is secured in
place since his head is way too big for the neck hole. Belt should be stitched on
very tightly and securely so he doesn’t look like bloated sausage Link. Use the
buckle to hide your stitches. Wire arms and legs. Attach ears to head after hair
but before hat.
Head
Off White
CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. SC x 6 (6)
2. INC x 6 (12)
3. SC x 3; INC x 3; SC x 3; INC x 3; (18)
4. SC x 3; INC then SC; INC then SC; INC then SC; repeat the whole thing;
(24)
5. SC x 3 then INC; repeat 5 times; (30)
6. SC around; (30)
7 – 12. SC around (repeat for rounds 7 through 12); (30)
13. SC x 5; INVDEC then SC; INVDEC then SC; INVDEC then SC; SC x 7;
INVDEC then SC; INVDEC then SC; INVDEC then SC; (24)
14. SC then INVDEC then SC; repeat x 5; (18)
15. SC then INVDEC; repeat x 5; (12)
16. INVDEC x 6; (6)
Finish off and keep a long tail for sewing in
If you want to do a nose, hook into the fabric where you want to put it and
surface crochet SC x 2 then finish it off and weave in the tail.
Body (starts at the butt and works upside down

White
1. SC x 6; (6)
2. INC x 6; (12)
3. SC then INC; repeat x 5; (18) switch to apple green
4. SC around; (18)
5. SC around; (18)
6. SC x 7 then INVDEC; repeat; (16)
7. SC around; (16)
8-11. SC around; (16) (repeat for rows 8 through 11)
14. SC x 4 then INVDEC; repeat (10)
15. SL ST then switch to Off White; CH x 1 then SC x 10; (10)
SL ST then finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Use a 3mm hook and Apple Green yarn to SL ST surface crochet all the way
around the row where green meets off white to make a nicely edged shirt collar
look.
Vest
Emerald Green
CH 26 and SL ST to join
1. In 3rd CH from hook, DC then DC x 23; join; (24)
2. CH x 2 then DC x 24; join; (24)
3-5. CH x 2 then DC x 24; join; (24)
6. CH x 2 then DC x 3; CH x 3 (skip over the next 4 stitches from the previous
row to make the arm hole for the vest); DC x 2; SC then SL ST then SC (this
makes the V neck shape for the front of the vest) then DC x 2; CH x 3 (skip
over the next 4 stitches from the previous row to make the arm hole for the
vest); DC to end then join;
7. CH 1; SC x 3; SC x 3 over the CH 3 from previous row; SL ST x 7; SC x 3
over the CH 3 from previous row; SC to end and join.
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Once the vest is stitch to the body of
the doll, use a smaller hook to SC around the entire edge of the sleeve opening
if you want to finish it off and make it look less like a muscle shirt. That step is
optional.
Legs (make 2)
Chocolate or Brown
1. SC 8; (8)
2-5. SC 8; (8) (repeat for rows 2 through 5 then switch to white)
6. SC 8; (8)
7-11. SC 8; (8)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff boots or legs.
Boot Cuff
Chocolate or Brown
CH 11
1. SC 10; (10)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Stitch around the top of the boot to
create the cuff of the boot.
Boot Toe
At front of the bottom face of the brown “footie” where a boot toe looks like it
would go, starting at the outer corner, surface crochet SC x 4 across then
surface crochet SC x 1 downward then back SC x 4 across then SC x 1 one up
then join and finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stitch the 4 SCs across
together and stitch closed.
Arms (make 2)
Off White
1. SC 8; (8)
2-4. SC 8; (8) (repeat for rows 2 through 4 then switch to apple green)
5. SC 8; (8)
6-11. SC 8; (8) (repeat for rowns 6 through 11)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing in.
Arm Detail
SL ST surface crochet around in green where the skin colour meets the green
then CH x 1 and SC around to make a nice finished sleeve look.
Belt use a 3mm hook

CH x 28
1. SC x 27; (27)
Finish off leaving long tail for sewing.
Belt Medallion
1. SC x 6; (6)
2. SL ST x 6; (6)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing
Hat
1. SC x 4; (4)
2. SC x 4; (4)
3. CH x 3, DC, 2 DC in next ST, DC, 2 DC in next ST; join; (6)
4. CH x 3, DC, 2 DC in next ST, 2 DC in next ST, DC, 2 DC in next ST, 2 DC in
next ST; join; (10)
5. CH x 3, DC, 2 DC in next ST; repeat x 4; join; (15)
6. CH x 3, DC, DC, 2 DC in next ST; repeat x 4; join; (20)
7. CH x 3, DC, DC, 2 DC in next ST, DC; repeat x 4; join; (25)
8. CH x 3, DC, DC, DC, 2 DC in next ST; repeat x 4; join; (30)
9. SC x 5, CH x 1, DC x 5, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 3, 2 DC in 1 ST, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC
X 3, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC X 5, SC X 5; join (34)
10. SC x 5, CH x 1, DC x 2, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC X 2, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC X 2, 2 DC in
1 ST, DC X 6, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC X 2, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC X 2, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC X
2, SC X 5; join (40)
11. SC x 5, CH x 1, DC x 4 then 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 4 then 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 4
then 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 4 then 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 4 then 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 4
then 2 DC in 1 ST, SC X 5; join (45)
SL ST around edge of hat, finish off and leave long tail for sewing in.
Hair Cap
1. SC 6; (6)
2. INC in each; (12)
3. SC then INC; repeat x 5; (18)
4. SC then INC then SC; repeat x 5 (24)
5. SC x 5 then INC; repeat x 3; (28)
6. SC x 3 then INC then SC x 3; repeat x 3; (32)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing in.
Hair Detail
Hook into the front and CH x 3, do 2 Treble crochet stitches in the next ST, 1
treble and 1 DC in the next ST and DC x 2 in the next ST after that. Now
continue as normal (1 ST per ST), DC x 3 then SC x 4 and then SL ST around
the remainder of the head cap all the way around to where you first hooked in.
CH x 4 then hook into first treble from the previous row. INC in the first treble
stitch from the previous round then SC x 9 and finish off. Weave tail into cap
and hide.
Bangs
This creates a second lock of bangs to be affixed on top of the hair detail above
to give a layered look.
CH x 12
SL ST x 2 then SC x 2 then DC x 2 then DC INC (2 DC in 1 ST) twice then
treble crochet the rest and finish off leaving a long tail for sewing it in.
Sideburns (make 2)
CH x 8 SL ST x 2 then SC x 6 and finish off leaving a long tail for sewing in.
Ear (make 2)
1. SC x 5; SL ST x 2; (7)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing in.
Shield (front)
Country Rose or Light Maroon
CH x 8
1. INC, SC x 5, INC (3 SC in 1 SC) now go around to the other side of the same
CH like a U-Turn, INC (3 SC in 1 SC), SC x 5, INC then join. CH 1
2. INC, SC x 7, INC (3 SC in 1 SC), SC x 2, INC (3 SC in 1 SC), SC x 7, INC
then join. CH1
3. SC 4, DC x 6, DC then treble then DC in the same hole, SC x 4, DC then
treble then DC in the same hole, DC x 6, SC x 4, SL ST, switch to grey, join. CH
1
4. SC, INC, SC, INC, SC x 6, INC 3 in 1, SC x 6, INC (3 SC in 1 SC), SC x 6,
INC, SC, INC, SC, INC, SC, SC, SC SL ST. CH 1
SL ST around
Shield (back)
Chocolate or Brown
CH x 8
1. INC, SC x 5, INC (3 SC in 1 SC) now go around to the other side of the same
CH like a U-Turn, INC (3 SC in 1 SC), SC x 5, INC then join. CH 1
2. INC, SC x 7, INC (3 SC in 1 SC), SC x 2, INC (3 SC in 1 SC), SC x 7, INC
then join. CH1
3. SC 4, DC x 6, DC then treble then DC in the same hole, SC x 4, DC then
treble then DC in the same hole, DC x 6, SC x 4, SL ST, switch to grey, join. CH
1
4. SC, INC, SC, INC, SC x 6, INC 3 in 1, SC x 6, INC (3 SC in 1 SC), SC x 6,
INC, SC, INC, SC, INC, SC, SC, SC SL ST. CH 1
In grey SL ST a line across top and bottom third of the shield.
Shield Handle
CH x 8
1. SC x 6 then finish off leaving a long tail for sewing in. Attach to grey strips to
make handle for the shield.
Stitch the front and back together, right sides facing out.
Sword Blade (make 2 then stitch together, right sides facing out)
CH x 21
1. INC (3 in 1 ST), SC x 18, INC, hook into other side of CH (acts as a U-Turn
to work up the other side of the CH) INC, SC x 18, INC (3 in 1 ST);
2. SC 17, SL ST then proceed to SL ST around, finish off and keep a long tail for
sewing.
Sword Handle
1. SC x 5; (5)
2-4. SC x 5; (5) repeat for rows 2 through 4
5. INC x 5; (10)
6. SC x 10; (10)
7. INV DEC x 3; (7)
Finish off and weave in tail.
Sword Base
1. SC x 6; (6)
2. INC, INC, SC, INC, INC, SC; (10)
3. SC, INC x 3, SC x 2, INC x 3, SC; (16)
Finish off and leave a long tail.
Attach the handle to the base and sew securely. Wire the handle so it remains
stiff. Pinch the base so it make a flat “envelope” around the bottom of the blade
of the sword and stitch shut sewing the blade firmly in place.
Sword Sheath
Start with grey CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
1. DC x 6; join;
2. CH x 2, 2 DC in 1 ST, 2 DC in 1 ST, switch to brown DC, switch back to grey,
2 DC in 1 ST, 2 DC in 1 ST; join; switch to brown
3. CH x 2, DC x 5, 2 DC in 1 ST, DC x 5, 2 DC in 1 ST; join;
4. CH x 2, DC x 12; join;
7. CH x 1, SC around; join;
8. switch to grey; SC around ;
SL ST around, finish off and weave in grey yarn. Stitch to the back using brown
yarn.
Bomb
Blue body of the bomb
1. SC x 6; (6)
2. INC x 6; (12)
4. SC then INC then SC; repeat x 5; (24)
6. SC around; (27)
11. SC x 7 then INVDEC; repeat x 2; (24)
12. SC then INVDEC then SC; repeat x 6; (18)
13. SC then INVDEC; repeat x 6; (12)
14. INVDEC x 6; (6)
Finish off then sew shut and weave in tail.
Grey cap to the bomb CH 2 or Magic Ring or start however you like
grey
1. SC x 6; (6)
2. INC x 6; (12)
3. SL ST around; (12)
4. SC x 12 in back loop only; (12)
Finish off and leave long tail for sewing
Yellow stem or wick to the bomb

Hook into cap of bomb, ch 3 finish off leave tail snipped short sticking out.
Red ChuChu
1. SC x 6; (6)
2. INC x 6; (12)
17. SC 13 then INVDEC; repeat x 2; (42)
18. SC x 6 then INVDEC then SC x 6; repeat x 2; (39)
33. INC then SC; repeat x 8; (27)
SL ST then flinish off leaving a long tail for sewing in the nubbly feet blobs.
Nubbly Feet Blobs Make 5

1. SC x 6; (6)
2. INC x 6; (12)
4. SC around; (18)
6. SC around; (15)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing in. Sew 7 stitches of every nubbly to
the ChuChu body base. Once they are all attached, sew them all to each other
to close the gap and give him an uneven blobbish footing.
ChuChu Eyeball Make 2

Start in Yellow
1. SC x 6; (6)
2. INC x 6; (12)
3. SC then INC then SC; switch to hot pink then repeat x 2; (16)
4. SC x 5, switch to purple SL ST around. Using purple yarn, stitch to body, pull
through center of the eye and tie off a knot to make a pupil and stitch in “bags”
under the eyes.
Pig
1. SC x 6; CH x 1 (6)
2. SC 6 in back loop only and join (6)
3. SC then INC x 4 then SC; (10)
4. SC x 2 then INC x 6 then SC x 2; (16)
7. SC around; (20)
8-14. SC around; repeat for rows 8 through 14; (20)
15. SC then INVDEC; repeat x 4; SC x 8; (16)
16. INVDEC x 8; (8)
17. INVDEC x 4; (4)
Finish off and sew shut, pull yarn through spot in butt and CH x 3 and cut to
make the tail.
Pig Leg (make 4)

1. SC x 6; CH x 1 (6)
2. SC 6 in back loop only and join (6)
Pig Ear
CH x 3
1. SC x 2; (2)
Finish off (should have a triangular shape) and leave long tail to sew into pig
head
Back to
Penguin
Patterns
Items Needed:
Around 3 oz of WW yarn in black, small amouts of white and orange/yellow (your
preference)
F or G Hook (if using a lighter WW use an F hook, with heavier WW you can use a G
hook
Felt, embroidery thread, or doll eyes for the face.
Size:From 5-6" tall depending on weight of yarn, size of hook, and position of
feet.
Note: It's a good idea to leave a large tail of yarn when fastening off the different
pieces. Then you just sew the pieces onto the body using the tail!
Body and Head: In black

2. Inc every sc around (16)
4. Sc around (24)
7-13. SC around (40)
16. Sc around (30)
Note: Now is a good time to attach the eyes if using safety eyes.
19-20. Sc around (42)

22. Sc around (45)
24. Sc around (48)
26-28. Sc around (54)
30. Sc around (48)
32. Sc around (42)
Note: You should stuff the body now as it will be closed up over the next few
rounds.
37. Dec every other sc (9)
Sew hole shut and fasten off
Beak: One in orange/yellow
4-5. Sc around (9)
Fasten off, sew to face
Belly Circle: One in white

Slip to next sc to even out circle, fasten off, sew to belly
Wings: Make 2 In black

3. Sc around (9)
5. Sc around (12)
7. Sc around (15)
9. Sc around (18)
11. Sc around (15)
13. Sc around (12)
Fasten off, sew to body
The feet are done a little differently. The toes are crocheted seperately (3 for each
foot) then you crochet around all three toes to connect them and form the body of
the foot. This is sort of confusing, so I've included pictures below.
If you're a beginning crocheter or just can't understand how the foot/toes work
but really want to make this pattern you can alternately make two more wings in
orange/yellow and finish off after the 10th row, sewing the top shut. These feet
will look like the ones in the photo, just without the toe "bumps" on top
Toes: Make 6 in orange/yellow

2. Sc around (6)
3. Sc next 3 sts (6)
Fasten off
Foot: Make 2 in orange/yellow
Each foot uses 3 toes
1.Attach yarn to one toe:
Crochet the next 3 sts:
Take second toe and insert hook into a stitch:
Sc this stitch:
Sc the next 2 sts. Take 3rd toe, insert hook in same manner, sc this stitch and next
5 stitches. Insert hook into second toe in the same manner, sc this stitch and last
2 stitches remaining on toe. Insert hook into first toe, sc this stitch and remaining
2 stitches. Now all the toes should be connected into a round. (18)
2. Sc next 2 sts, dec, sc next st, dec, sc next 4 sts, dec, sc next st, dec, sc last 2
sts (14)
3-5. Sc around (14)
6. Dec every other st (9)
7. Sc around (9)
8. Dec every 5th st (5)
Finish off and sew hole shut, Feet can be sewn underneath body to appear
standing, or on front of body to appear sitting.
A note on all my patterns: I offer my patterns free, and I'd like them to stay free,
therefore feel free to print them out and pass them out to as many people as you'd
like, I simply ask that you put my web address somewhere on the pattern, so
people know where it came from. Never ever sell my patterns or present them as
your own. You can give away items made from my patterns, but if you want to sell
them online you need to state that the pattern is free and available here. This
means that every single listing for any item made with my pattern must state that
the pattern you used is free and you must also post a link to it. I'm not trying to be
mean, I just want the most people possible to have access to free patterns. Please
don't violate these rules and ruin things for everyone else. Thanks!
Horse
General supplies:
Size F Crochet Hook
Small amounts of ww yarn
Tapestry needle for sewing
Fiberfill
small doll eyes, optional
General terms
Sc-dec= single crochet decrease (decrease over 2 stitches)
Sc= single crochet
FO= finish offHook size, F & G
Head
The end of each round is joined with a slip stitch to the first stitch made
With F hook,
Starting at nose,
Ch 2
4) ch 1, sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in next 3 sc, sc in last sc (9 sc)
5) ch 1, sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in next 6 sc, sc in last sc (15 sc)
10) ch 1, (sc-dec, sc in next 2 sc) repeat around (10 sc)
STUFF
FO leaving long tail. Use tail to close hole. The seam side of the head is the bottom side of
the horse.
Ears (make 2)
With F hook,
Chain 4
1) sc in 2nd chain from hook, sc in remaining 2 chains, ch1, turn
2) sc-dec, sc in last sc, ch 1, turn
3) sc-dec
FO leaving long tail.
Sew ears onto head.
Neck
Leave a long starting tail. This is the end that is sewn to horses head.
With F hook
Chain 11, join with slip stitch to first chain
1) ch 1, sc in each chain around. (11 sc)
4) ch 1, (2 sc in first sc, sc in next sc) repeat around, sc in last sc
FO leaving long tail. This is the end that is sewn onto the horses body
Body
With F hook
Chain 2
7) ch 1, sc in each sc around.
STUFF
FO leaving long tail. Use tail to sew hold closed.
Stuff neck and sew to horses body.
Legs (make 4)
With G hook,
Using contrast hoof color
Chain 2,
2) IN BACK LOOPS ONLY. ch 1, sc in each sc around
FO and switch to main color
Finish off leaving long tail.
Sew legs to body
Saddle
With F hook
Chain 2,
3) Ch 1, (2 sc in first sc, sc in next sc) repeat around (18 sc)
FO leaving long tail.
Sew saddle onto horses back.
Horses mane
You will need several pieces of yarn, cut into approx. 6 inch pieces. Each piece of yarn will
act as 2 strands of hair. I used 2 6 inch strands at a time.
Insert hook into horses head. Grab middle of yard strand with hook and pull through stitch, (
Like you would latch hook!) making a small loop. Pull both free ends of yarn strand through
loop, pulling tight to secure hair.
You will continue to do this down back of horses neck, and I did 2 in front of head.
Trim hair evenly, or as desired.
Sew eyes on. ( I used 1/8" doll eye buttons)
Halter
With scrap piece of yarn, circle nose of horse with yarn. (I tied small knots to keep yarn in
place. Also circle horses head with same yarn.
Tie and snip ends.
Enjoy your horse!
Gizmo Amigurumi another missing project
Gremlin Gizmo Work in progress
Since i have been inspired by gremlin last november and been working on it,
though... I couldnt get my first try amigurumi pattern written down as this
time its extremely complicated methods as usual. Nope i just cant give up so i
made the pink version.
Last year june till december was in extremely "anti-net" world i live in and
now its getting better. compiling all the messed up pattern works i made
during those time are gone with the clean up clutters. Made the first just the
head at the top with weird eye button (just ordinary button), then the remade
version turned out great but i didnt write down the pattern the second time...
so i made the pink head next, which seems to be similar with the second one
but again its hard to write down the pattern exactly. So here is no pattern
version of gizmo... Okay enough with my mumbling... (Conclusion... No
Pattern available till i get my mood swing to make better heads of the quality i
wanted)
Here is the Messy Method i used (Not Complete Pattern) :
Head
- Make a Patch of white Circle and brown Circle with an extra long long yarn
for the white and some few inch for the brown.
(5 magic ring, then you inc the next row and end off with a white long yarn
about a meter is more then enough)
- Tie the white circle and brown circle yarn together. (Simple knot 2 or 3
times will do and leave the yarns hanging at the back) + (The normal way of
amigurumi is inside flipped out, so make sure you know which is the inside
part)
- Use peach yarn, hold the white yarn with inside facing you and the brown
circle pointing left. from the knot count 3 stitches on the white circle and start
your sc there. (On white circle 3sc, on knot 1 sc "marker for nose embroidery
with left over yarn later", on brown 3 sc, turn, dec, inc, inc, inc, dec, turn, on
second stitch dec, dec, dec, slip stitch end off.)
- hold the long white circle yarn... from the knot edge of the white circle, use
that extra yarn to inc around over the white circle to the peach yarn and end
off. Do the same for the brown eye circle but from the peach lips instead.
Leave the brown yarn hanging if you dont wanna end off here.
- With new white yarn for the chin, You can see the lips curve take shape at
the peach, right below that (skipping 2 or 3 stitches from the white eye patch)
start with slip stitch and 4sc and slip stitch again. make sure the (sp, 4sc, sp) is
positioned center under the peach mouth area. Turn from second stitch (beside
sp) dec (twice if not mistaken) end off the white chin yarn.
- At the edge of white chin towards the brown eye patch... use a new brown
yarn from that edge with... " 2sc, dec (the dec must be on the peach only), 2
sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc keep repeating 2 sc inc over the white eye patch and
when you reach the peach mouth again, make sure it is dec. when it reach the
white part of the chin, just dec twice will do.
- start a new white yarn at the top of the head above the brown eye patch or
just end off and continue (My scribbled old notes say 5th from the cheek top,
but it may vary with no exact pattern) Okay keep in mind we will be mixing
colors. I have 2 different notes not sure which is the right one... (You will
have 2 to 3 rows of white line at the top of the head, im not sure how big is the
real white patch on gizmo... no reference for back of the head while making
this and its based on what i remember)
NOTE 1 :
# The first note says : with the white from top brown eye patch,9SC WHITE,
brown sc around till the white again,
# 9 sc white, then 2sc dec all the way back to the white,
# continue the 2 sc dec if not mistaken "dec, 2sc, dec, 2sc, dec", then with
brown sc dec all the way back to the white. Brown, dec arond. stuff in a bit. sc
dec around, dec the next row and dec all the remaining row ending off a head.
(stuff the cheeks out first and less on the eyes)
Note 2 : Not that clear, it says if white is 3sc dec, then brown is 2 sc dec, and
it repeats with minus 1 sc for both in each rows.
It also says when it reach dec for brown, mix sc around the top part and chin
part so the dec dont stretch.
Ears
- 5 CHAIN turn, from second stitch 3 sc, inc turn, inc, 4sc, turn, slip stitch,
3sc, inc, slip stitch, 9sc (around till the edge) inc at edge, sc twice if not
mistaken to the other edge, inc at the edge, sc, inc, sc, inc end off with few
inch yarn to give the crinkle when you sew in back hidden to the edge.
- use brown, 5 or 6 sc from right making sure the front part of the ears are
facing you. at the back of the ears surface stitch at the bar looking stitches as
you have used the top portion of the normal single crochet method. once back
to the start of brown yarn, if it is the top part of the ears, place an inc and slip
stitch around. end off. Keep track of your work so it looks identical.
Foot
- Peach yarn, 6 magic ring, 2sc inc twice in next row, 3sc inc twice in next
row, 4sc inc twice in next row, Okay the tricky part... keep marker here. 3 sc,
turn the whole thing and sc on the marker putting the hook from out to in and
pulling the yarnas if its creating a tiny 4 stitch loop. add in another row above
that 4 stitches to create your first toe. do the same for the toe next to it, with
two stitches front and two stitches back becoming 4 stitches toe, the same for
the last toe.
THE WHITE thigh area

- Im not sure... 6 magic ring, inc in next row, 2 inc sc in all next row, sc in all
next row, sc dec in all next row, sc in all and end off. something like that. i
sew it to the body then i sew the foot on the white puff with peach yarn.
Hands
- Similar with foot, but starting with fingers, 4magic ring, sc around for 2
extra rows of 4 stitches. make 3 little fingers and sc around it once of 2
stitches for first finger, then continue on with second and third finger with 2
stitches each. TOTAL 6 sc around and end off. with white, inc all in the first
row of white, then sc all in second brown of white, lastly "dec, dec, sc" the
last row, but add in extra dec dec sc till it reach the edge of the finger corner.
end off. With brown, first row, sc all, second row, 3sc dec in all, third row,
4sc dec 4sc, and last row sc all. end of.
Body
Again Im not sure as no complete pattern as its just drawings on methods i
wanna try. I started with white and made a patch of triangle with slowly
"xx"sc dec reducing to only sc dec at the neck. then i sc all of the hand and
body and hand again and sew it to the head. that gives the shoulderless look.
Earth ponies:
Unicorn:
Pegasus with closed wings:

Pegasus with open wings:
(Ponies available on Etsy by the way, and custom pony orders welcome)
2013/3/1: If you would like to make these ponies to sell, I'm happy for you to do so! Just please
provide a link back here (http://knitoneawesome.blogspot.co.uk/).
A donation would also be greatly appreciated (button can be found in the sidebar), but isn't
necessary. :)
2013/3/15: Since it seems many people are ignoring my warning about how much of a pain it is
to do the corded manes and tails, I've added instructions below. ^__^
2013/5/28: I've made a couple of changes to the pattern - removed one row from the hind legs,
and reworked the open wings. I've also added instructions for crocheted manes and tails.
The Pattern:
(US crochet terms)
Abbreviations used:
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
sc dec - single crochet decrease
bl sc - back loop single crochet
fl sc - front loop single crochet
sl st - slip stitch
bl sl st - back loop slip stitch
st(s) - stitch(es)
I used a 3mm hook and dk (light worsted) yarn, which makes ponies approximately 17cm (7
inches) tall.
Head:
Stuff as you go.
Round 1) 6 sc in magic ring
Round 2) 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Round 3) (2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc) around (18)
Round 4) (2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc) around (24)
Round 13) (sc dec in next 2 sc, sc in next 5 sc) around (36)
Round 20) (sc dec in next 2 sc, sc in next sc) around (12)
Round 21) (sc dec in next 2 sc) around (6)
Finish, leave tail for sewing.
Complete stuffing, sew remaining hole closed.
Neck:
Leave long tail for sewing
Round 1) Ch 21, sl st through first ch to form a ring
Row 4) sc in next 16 sc, sl st in next sc, turn.
Row 5) (Do NOT ch 1, or skip the first st) bl sl st in next 12 sts, turn.
Row 6) (Do NOT ch 1, or skip the first st) sl st in next st, sc in next 15 sts
Round 7) 1 sc in each st around (21)
Finish, leave long tail for sewing.
Body:
Stuff as you go.
Finish, leave tail for sewing.
Complete stuffing, sew remaining hole closed.
Nose (female):
Or:
Nose (male):
Round 4) 1 bl sc in each sc around (20)
Ear (make 2):

Foreleg (make 2):

Stuff as you go.
Round 7) sc dec in next 2 sc, sc in next 22 sc (23)
Hindleg (make 2):

Stuff as you go.
Round 21) sc in next 6 sc, [bl sc dec in next 2 sc] 3 times, sc in next 6 sc (15)
Round 22) sc in next 6 sc, [2 fl sc in next sc] 3 times, sc in next 6 sc (18)
Optional extras:
Horn:
Round 2) (2 bl sc in next sc, bl sc in next sc) around (6)
Round 4) (2 bl sc in next sc, bl sc in next 2 sc) around (8)
Closed Wing (make 2):

Very lightly stuff as you go.
Leave long tail for sewing.
Flatten into the correct shape. Round 1 is the tip of the wing, round 17 is the root.
Embroider feather pattern using slightly darker colour of yarn.
Open Wings:
Feather 1 (make 2):

Finish.
Feather 2 (make 2):

Finish
Feather 3 (make 2):

Finish
Feather 4 & main wing (make 2):

Round 13) 1 sc in each of the next 4 sc; continuing on feather 3, 1 sc in each of the next 9 sc;
back onto main wing, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sc, sc dec in next 2 sc. (17)
Round 16) sc dec in next 2 sc, 1 sc in each of the next 29 sc, sc dec in next 2 sc. (31)
Round 22) sc dec in next 2 sc, 1 sc in each of the next 8 sc, sc dec in next 2 sc, 1 sc in each of
the next 7 sc, sc dec in next 2 sc. (18)
Round 26) sc dec in next 2 sc, 1 sc in the next sc, [sc dec in next 2 sc] 3 times. (5)
Outer feather 1 (make 2):

Finish.
Outer feather 2 (make 2):

Finish.
Outer feather 3 & outer wing (make 2):

Round 9) 1 sc in each of the next 3 sc; continuing on outer feather 2, 1 sc in each of the next 6
sc; back onto outer wing, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sc. (12)
Round 10) 1 sc in each of the next 6 sc; continuing on outer feather 1, 1 sc in each of the next 6
sc; back onto outer wing, 1 sc in each of the next 6 sc. (18)
Round 11) sc dec in next 2 sc, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sc, [sc dec in next 2 sc] 2 times, 1 sc in
each of the next 5 sc, sc dec in next 2 sc. (14)
Round 13) sc dec in next 2 sc, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sc, [sc dec in next 2 sc] 2 times, 1 sc in
each of the next 3 sc, sc dec in next 2 sc. (10)
Round 14) sc dec in next 2 sc, 1 sc in next sc, [sc dec in next 2 sc] 2 times, 1 sc in next sc, sc
dec in next 2 sc. (6)
Do not stuff either the wings or the outer wings.

Sew rows 10 - 14 of the outer wings to the wings, feather 1 lowermost on both the wing and the
outer wing.
Make sure they are on opposite sides - when the completed wings are attached to the pony, the
outer wings should be on the outside on both sides.
Assembly:
(All the positions given are approximate - pin your pony together and experiment to see what
looks best!)
Legs to body - place the line of decreases to the front of the legs. Tuck in 2-3 rows of the inner
edges before sewing to prevent the legs from tilting outwards too far. Make sure the legs are
firmly stuffed right to the top.
Front legs - front edges attached at the 7th round of the body, back edges at the 15th.
Back legs - place as far to the back as possible, so the curve of the upper back legs goes into
the curve of the rump. Front edges should be attached at 19th round of the body, back edges at
the 28th.
Neck to body - broadest side of the neck to the front. Attach the front edge of the neck at the
2nd round of the body.
Nose to head - (I prefer to have the head's starting point at the back and cover the finishing
point with the nose. Whether this works for you depends on where you'll be placing your nose!
Experiment to see what looks best. If you do put the finishing point at the back of the head, it'll
be covered by the mane) Stuff the nose, sew to the front of the head. Female nose should be
positioned at the bottom of the head. Squish female nose into turned up shape. Male nose
should be positioned in the middle of the head.
Ears to head - Do not stuff ears, flatten, curve inwards, sew to back of head. Edges should be
at the 7th/8th rounds from the back of the head, the back of the ear should be at the 4th round
from the back of the head.
Neck to head - Stuff the neck before attaching the head.
Horn - Stuff before attaching. Place 4 rounds in front of the ears and an even distance between
them.
Closed Wings - (I recommend attaching the wings AFTER the mane, tail and cutie mark)
Attach the front half of the top edge of the wings only. Attach to the sides of the body towards
the front, an equal distance between the neck and the tops of the front legs.
Open Wings - (I recommend attaching the wings AFTER the mane, tail and cutie mark) Attach
rounds 20 - 26 of the main wings only. Attach to the sides of the body towards the front, an
equal distance between the neck and the tops of the front legs.
Eyes and Cutie Mark - I used felt and embroidery thread. If you prefer, you could also use
fabric paint/pens.
Straight Mane and Tail - I used thin cords made from yarn. It looks like this:
Things to bear in mind before you try this: it takes ages to make the cords, and it takes ages to
attach them. The other major disadvantage of using this technique is that you have to get the
length of the cord correct before you attach it to your pony - you can't cut them to length
afterwards, because the cords would just unravel.
(2013/4/5: Thanks to Miek for pointing me in the direction of this, which is pretty much
the technique below, and has pictures. ^_^)
Cut a length of yarn approximately 6 times the length you want your finished cord to be.
Tie a slip knot in the centre, so the ends are even.
Then you take the end that you DON'T pull on to tighten the loop, and draw a loop of it up
through the loop of the slip knot. Then you pull the slip knot tight.
Then take the end you just used to pull the slip knot tight, pull a loop of that up through the loop
you just created, then use the other end to pull that loop tight.
Keep repeating this, alternating which end you use to pull up a new loop, until your cord is long
enough.
When you're done, pull both ends entirely through the loop (you only need to pull one end
through to secure the cord, but both gives you a neater end), and pull the loop tight. Do NOT cut
the ends at this point!
Position your cord on your pony, and use a (curved, for preference) needle to draw ONE of the
ends through the fabric of the pony, then knot the ends together using a reef knot.
Use a needle to draw BOTH ends back into the pony's body. If you're careful, you should be
able to pull the knot through to the inside, so it's hidden.
Curly Mane and Tail - Crocheted. It looks like this:
This also takes quite a while to make, and can't be cut to length afterwards, but is it a lot easier to attach!
Leave long tail for sewing

Make a chain a little longer than you want your finished curl to be. Turn.
Work back up the chain, 3 sc in each chain, until you reach the starting point. Make another chain. Repeat until
you have enough for your mane or tail.
Sew onto pony.
(To make your curls less curly, work only 1 or 2 sc in each chain, rather than 3)
Here's a number of other hair-making methods to try, if you'd rather!
If you have questions/confusion, please ask!

If you liked the pattern, please consider making a donation - button can be found in the sidebar.
Gatito
Jefe
1 ª fila:. tipo 2 vp y tejer 6 pb en el segundo bucle del gancho [6]
2 ª fila: * aumento *. * Repetir 6 veces [12].
3 ª fila: * 1 pb, * aumento. . * Repetir 6 veces [18]
sexta fila: * 4 pb, * aumento. * Repetir 6 veces [36].
séptima fila: * 5 pb, * aumento. . * Repetir 6 veces [42]
Rango 8: * 6 pb, * aumento. * Repetir 6 veces [48].
9-13 series:. ningún cambio [48]
14 rango: * 6 pb, pb juntos *. * Repetir 6 veces [42].
16a vuelta: * 4 pb, pb juntos *. . * Repetir 6 veces [30]
17a vuelta: * 3 pb, pb juntos *. . * Repetir 6 veces [24]
fila 18a: * 2 pb, pb juntos *. . * Repetir 6 veces [18]
decimonovena vuelta: * 1 pb, pb juntos *. * Repetir 6 veces [12]. Rellene relleno.
Asegure y ocultar el hilo. Coser los ojos. Nariz bordada para que te gustó el hocico.
Ears (Parte 2)
primera fila: tipo 2 vp y tejer 6 pb en el segundo bucle del gancho [6].
2 series: * 2 pb, * aumento. * Repetir 2 veces [8].
tercera fila: * 3 pb, * aumento. * Repetir 2 veces [10].
5 ª fila: * 5 pb, * aumento. * Repetir 2 veces [14].
Deje el hilo para coser las orejas a la cabeza.
Trunk
2 series: * aumento *. * Repetir 6 veces [12].
sexta fila: * 4 pb, * aumento. * Repetir 6 veces [36].
séptima fila: * 5 pb, * aumento. * Repetir 6 veces [42].
8-11 de serie:. ningún cambio [42]
Rango 13: * 4 pb, pb juntos *. . * Repetir 6 veces [30]
14 consecutivas: * 3 pb, pb juntos *. . * Repetir 6 veces [24]
15 consecutivas: * 2 pb, pb juntos *. . * Repetir 6 veces [18]
16a vuelta: * 1 pb, pb juntos *. * Repetir 6 veces [12]. Rellene relleno.
Asegure y dejar el hilo para coser la cabeza.
Asas (Parte 2)
2 ª fila: * aumento *. * Repetir 5 veces [10]. Cambiar el color de hilo.
3-8 series:. ningún cambio [10]
. Deje el hilo para coser las manijas al cuerpo
pies (2 piezas)
1 ª Línea:. tipo 2 vp y tejer 6 pb en el segundo bucle del gancho [6]
2 series: * incrementar *. * Repetir 6 veces [12].
3 ª fila: * 2 pb, * aumento. Repetir de * a 4 veces [16].
serie 4-8: ningún cambio [16].
dejar el hilo para coser las piernas al torso.
Tail
primera fila:. tipo 2 vp y tejer 6 pb en el segundo bucle del gancho [6]
2 series: * incrementar *. * Repetir 6 veces [12].
3 ª fila: * 1 pb, * aumento. * Repetir 6 veces [18].
4-6 serie:. ningún cambio [18]
La cadena de 30 sn. Gire el tejido de punto. 30 sc. Montar y dejar el hilo para coser al cuerpo.
Soft kitty
Otra vez tomando como base el patrón del conejo hice algunas modificaciones y lo
transformé en un gatito. Espero que pronto pueda crear un patrón yo sola, de cero ;).
A continuación las instrucciones:
nomenclatura:
pb= punto bajo o medio punto
aum= aumento
dim= disminución
(con lana bebe doble y aguja 3.00 mm, en color rosa)
Cabeza:
2: 6aum (12)
3: *1pb, 1aum* rep todo alrededor (18)
9-13: 1pb en cada pb (48)
14: *6pb, 1dim* rep todo alrededor (42)
20: 6dim (6)
Orejas:
2: *1pb, 1 aum* rep todo alrededor (9)
3: *2pb, 1 aum* rep todo alrededor (12)
4: 2pb, 2 aum, 4pb, 2 aum, 2pb (16)
5: 3pb, 2 aum, 6pb, 2 aum, 3pb (20)
6: 5pb, 1 aum, 8 pb, 1 aum, 5pb (22)
Cola:
2-14: 6pb (6)
Cuerpo:
2: 7aum (14)
Brazos (x2):
Patas (x2):
1: 6pb en un anillo mágico (6) (comenzar con blanco)
2: 6aum (12)
3: *1pb, 1aum* rep todo alrededor (18) (en esta vuelta cambiar a color rosa)
8: 6dim (6)
(con lana bebe simple y aguja 00, en color blanco)
Flor:
1: 6 pb en un aro deslizado (6)
2: 6 aum (12)
La flor rosa es un aplique acrilico y esta bordado con mostacillas verdes. Bordar los ojos
en negro y realizar los bigotes con hilo encerado.

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Size: 3″ tall

Worsted weight yarn

3.50 mm (size E) hook

other. This diagram may be helpful for round 1.

Rnd 2 — [2 sc in next st, 1 sc] rep around (15 sts)

Rnd 3 — [2 sc in next st, 2 sc] rep around (20 sts)

Rnd 4 — [2 sc in next st, 3 sc] rep around (25 sts)

Rnd 5 — [2 sc in next st, 4 sc] rep around (30 sts)

Rnd 6 — sc around (30 sts)

Rnd 7 — [sc2tog, 4 sc] rep around (25 sts)

Rnd 8 — [sc2tog, 3 sc] rep around (20 sts)

Rnd 9 — [sc2tog, 2 sc] rep around (15 sts)

Rnd 1 — 5 sc into magic ring (5 sts)

Rnd 2 — 2 sc in each st around (10 sts)

Rnd 3 — [2 sc in next st, 1 sc] rep around (15 sts)

Rnd 4-7 — sc around (15 sts)

Rnd 1 — 4 sc into magic ring (4 sts)

Rnd 2 — [2 sc in next st, 1 sc] rep around (6 sts)

Rnd 1 — 6 sc into magic ring (6 sts)

Edam the dog pattern

Size: 3″ (8 cm) tall

Worsted weight yarn (I used Red Heart Super Saver in Cornmeal)

3.5 mm (E) hook

to squish the head into shape.

paint, buttons, beads, etc.

Rnd 1 – 5 sc into magic ring (5 sts)

Rnd 2 – 2 sc in each st around (10 sts)

Rnd 3 – [2 sc in next st, 1 sc] rep around (15 sts)

Rnd 4 – [2 sc in next st, 2 sc] rep around (20 sts)

Rnd 5 – sc around (20 sts)

Rnd 6 – sc around (20 sts)

Rnd 7 – sc around (20 sts)

Rnd 8 – 5 sc, 2 sc in next 3 sts, 4 sc, 2 sc in next 3 sts, 5 sc (26 sts)

Rnd 9 – sc around (26 sts)

Rnd 10 – 5 sc, sc2tog 3 times, 4 sc, sc2tog 3 times, 5 sc (20 sts)

Rnd 11 – [sc2tog, 2 sc] rep around (15 sts)

Rnd 1 – 5 sc into magic ring (5 sts)

Rnd 4 – [2 sc in next st, 2 sc] rep around (20 sts)

Rnd 5 – [2 sc in next st, 3 sc] rep around (25 sts)

Rnd 6 – sc around (25 sts)

Rnd 7 – sc around (25 sts)

Rnd 8 – [sc2tog, 3 sc] rep around (20 sts)

Rnd 9 – sc around (20 sts)

Rnd 10 – [sc2tog, 2 sc] rep around (15 sts)

Rnd 11 – sc around (15 sts)

Rnd 1 – 6 sc into magic ring (6 sts)

Rnd 2 – sc around (6 sts)

Rnd 1 – 6 sc into magic ring (6 sts)

Rnd 2 – sc around (6 sts)

Rnd 3 – sc around (6 sts)

Rnd 1 – 4 sc into magic ring (4 sts)

Rnd 2 – sc around (4 sts)

Head and Body:

12. Dec every 4th (32)

*now is a good time to stuff the head*

15. Dec every sc (8)

*now is a good time to stuff the body*

29. Dec every other (8)

1. 6 sc in Adjustable Ring, ch 1, turn

*leave a long tail when tying off to attach ears to head*

[size=3]Default Body Parts[/size]

1. 6 sc in Adjustable Ring, ch 1, turn

Face template for Bear, Bunny, Kitty, and Puppy

now is a good time to stuff the head

now is a good time to stuff the body

leave a long tail when tying off to attach ears to head

Frog is crocheted in the round. Use a marker to mark beginning of round