Mesemb s

(English edition, revision 0.3, 2004/02/13)

Sysnopsis
Copyright (C) 1964-2003 Masaki Goro, Tanaka Kisata, Tanaka Masato.
All rights reserved.
English translated material Copyright (C) 2003 Kuroneko.
All rights reserved.
This document is the English edition of the book "Mesembs" originally written by;
Masaki Gorou : "Generalities"
Tanaka Kisata : "Particulars"
Tanaka Masato : "Photographs"
Publishing English edition is granted by courtesy of Mr.Tanaka Shinji.
The main subject of the book is globular Mesembs. The book was published 1964/08/01 by
Nishikien with support of Shinsyuu shaboten sennmonka renmei.
You can read the original in the following site.
"Conophytum",
http://www.shiojiri.ne.jp/~tanaka/mesen/index.html
The latest version can be downloaded from the following site.
"Evolution Green",
http://www.h5.dion.ne.jp/~paw/succulents/index.htm
 Generalities
"Mesembryanthema"
"Ficoidaceae Juss. emend.Hutchinson"
After the establishment of genus Mesembryanthemum L, there were a lot of
discussions for classification. Omitting the twists and turns, the conclusion is the above, for
now. The one who cultivates and appreciates Mesembs may have to bear this in mind. In
short, Mesembs is the generic term which indicates 4 sub-families related to Ficoidaceae.
However, we do not discuss this any further.
Germans abbreviate this longsome scientific name as 'Mesembs' and Japanese
apply 'Mesen' to it. Kanji characters that denote "female cactus" are also applied for the
word according to the pronunciation. This application seems appropriate for the
appearances of Mesembs and sounds pretty.
The scientific name means "midday flower". However, about 200 of them bloom in
the evening or in the night. Mesembs consists of over 120 genera and 3,000 species. It is
reported that about 800 species have been imported in Japan and about 400 species
 would exist still now. Although some
of them are annual plants, most of
them are perennial plants. They have
small tree-like or grass-like figures.
About 60% of them are easy to
cultivate and if protection against
cold is given, cultivation in the open
air is possible as a subject of
gardening. Unfortunately, it will take
some time to be popular among
ordinary gardeners.
Some of Mesembs have
globular shape as the result of highly
thickened leaves, which present ultimate beauty with peculiar appearance in all plants.
Lightly thickened ones have only a little thicker leaves than usual plants. Medium ones
have thicker leaves whose cross section is triangle or round. Highly thickened ones have
only one leaf which originally was two leaves and the shapes are diverse; cylindrical,
spindle-shaped, oval, egg-shaped, globular or a like. "globular Mesembs" is the general
term for these.
Almost all thickening begin as the projection of the underside of the leaves. In the
case of globular Mesembs, the part which we tend to think "the top and the side" are the
underside in deed. There are factors for appreciation in this part; color, pattern, window
and hair. On the other hand, the original upper side of the leaves has changed into only a
fissure and is not attractive.
The beauty of globular
Mesembs lies in the back
view.
The forms of globular
Mesembs are a kind of
mimicry. They imitate a stone
and gravel of their habitats for
getting rid of animals and
exploiters. I assume the
globular Mesembs at their
habitats are covered with dirt
 and hide themselves
among stones.
It is common that
plants rest their growth
in seasons of hard
conditions for growth.
Low temperature and
low humidity are the
factors for dormancy.
Mesembs rest in the dry
season and it depends
on the habitat whether
the season is summer
or winter. They surely will rest when the time comes even if we continue watering. This
means they interpret the temperature as the humidity and the logic of the interpretation
differs by species.
The appearances of Conophytum in the dormancy are extraordinary. Leaves
gradually lose moisture and change into thin skins, and these skins cover newly forming
leaves during dormancy. With the beginning of growth, new leaves appear shedding off
the old skins. It is quite a view to look
at the birth of new life.
The habitat of Mesembs is the
dry area of South Africa. South Africa
is vast and the climates vary from
severe dry desert climate to mild
coastal climate. There are a great
number of species and those species
including Mesembs and other
succulents have extraordinary and
fantastic appearance. Although only
the small part of them has been
discovered and introduced as subjects
for gardening, many of them have
been unrevealed as precious stones
yet.
 Centering South Africa, Mesembs have the distribution area in North Africa, the
Mediterranean Sea area, the Atlantic Ocean area, Arabia, the Near East, Australia, South
America and North America.
In the habitat of Mesembs, there is no frost and the precipitation is extremely little.
Furthermore, the dry season alternates with the rainy season. Such a climate determines
period of the growth and the dormancy. Since the difference of temperature between day
and night is considerable, condensation occurs in the night even in the dry season. For
Mesembs which aspire after water, this is an important source of water.
The habitat of a species is determined by the difference of the geographical features
and the soil, and it stays in a limited local area.
As the usual pattern of dry areas in the middle of continents, the pH of the soil is
neutral to alkaline. This makes the soil for cultivation should be added a bit of limestone as
an ingredient.
 Varieties
There are problems of
how to classify Mesembs in
the genetic aspects and the
name. The outlook for
solving these problems for
the future is bleak.
From the point of view
of classification, the "so-
called variety" of Mesemb
corresponds to the layer of
'species'. It is skeptical that
amateurs understand this
concept. Unfortunately,
Amateurs do not have any
academic background and follow authorities meekly without any objection. More often than
not, this does not cause any serious trouble. However, when one of them gets a question
and tries to solve the problem, he/she may begin to study or may combat with the existing
theory. It is like "the blind men who touched just part of an elephant and tried from that to
describe the whole animal".
Plants are classified mainly by the features of flowers and fruits, and subsequently by
the other factors. Furthermore, cytological analysis is often used. Thus, if amateurs try to
classify in perspective of the differences of the forms or patterns of leaves that are the
main factors for appreciation, sometimes inconsistency occurs in their claims. For
instance, they claim that the same species as different species, and vice versa.
Scientific names are entitled with the setting of species. Even if two plants have the
same species name, the appearances may differ by the localities, individuals and
cultivating conditions. They can be seen different for the eyes of amateurs. This
misunderstanding comes from a kind of prejudice. Putting a lot of Lithops As and Bs side
by side in a line according to the colors and patterns, the right side of Lithops A and the left
side of Lithops B resemble each other and telling which is which is impossible.
Also there are changes of the scientific names. Someone who meets a plant whose
name is new to him or her and misunderstands the plant as a new species. He/She buys it
and gets angry afterward. According to merge of species, names of species can be
revised or vanished too.
 Another problem arises
from the common names in
Japanese. They were
named by amateurs and
nurseries freely. They tried
to make the most beautiful
name. Some names are so
beautiful that we are
attracted by the names
before seeing them, and
some names are the results
of the lack of literary sense.
It might be not a good idea
to criticize those names after all. Although there was a case that a plant was imported with
a wrong scientific name, a common name in Japanese was given.
Since the fact exists as is already, it is too hard to solve these problems mentioned
above.
We tried to avoid these kinds of problems in the explanations of "Particulars" section
of this book, there may be some errors. Please be generous for those. As for common
names in Japanese, my friend Mr. Keizou Yasuhara gave us advice. We are deeply
grateful for him.
 Cultivation (in general)

The conditions of the habitat should suit a species. However, those are not always
necessary and sufficient for them. Because it is not rare that plants can grow better under
the different conditions in a foreign nursery. Thus, it is hasty of us that we resign ourselves
to cultivate plants because of the limitation of facility and technique. Even if the conditions
we can give them are poor, they might get over the difficulty with the ability of adaptation.
In short, there is no need for the conditions which are almost equal to those of the habitat,
however, ignoring those are wrong. Those should be studied at a difficulty in cultivation.
Popular plants which have been studied deeply are rare, let alone Mesembs. Thus, it
is natural that there is not the established way of cultivation of Mesembs. Documents
about cultivation of Mesembs can hardly be seen both domestically and internationally.
In Japan, cultivation of Mesembs was similar to the one of cactus at first and it failed,
because Mesembs cannot be tolerant such a hard transpiration which cactus can get over.
Thus, it is common that Mesembs must not be cultivated in the same glasshouse of cactus
nowadays.
 Temperature
The air is insensitive to temperature;
not heated easily and not cooled down
easily too. Plants, pots and the soil are
opposite to this. Thus, the former is cooler
than the latter in the daytime and hotter in
the night.
In the daytime, plants and the air
around them are hotter than the
temperature of the air above plants
without fairy good ventilation.
Unexpectedly, the heat exchange effect
of convection of the air is rather poor.
This phenomenon has relation with the
humidity of the air which will be discussed
later and should not be left negligible. Micro-meteological observation like this should be
taken into account when dealing with low-profile plants.
In the case of cultivating Mesembs, it is considered preferable that the temperature of
the daytime and the night differs a lot. This seems understandable from the conditions of
habitats of Mesembs. Thus, it is reasonable making a temperature gap by applying good
ventilation except winter.
It is considered that the suitable temperature for Mesembs is between 15 and 25
degree Celsius. Keeping this condition in spring and autumn is not difficult by proper
ventilation. In summer, temperature should be kept in this range by utilizing ventilation fully
and shielding the sunlight. In winter of a cold district, temperature should be kept above 5
degree Celsius utilizing straw or vinyl mat, so that plants continue their growth. However, it
is harmful to apply too much heat intending to make them grow faster. In a warm district,
there is no need of any cold protection, but sometimes unexpected cold waves may come.
In these situations without any preparation, a sheet of newspaper covering plants would
save them.
Mesembs are hardy and even if they got frozen, they can revive except extreme
situations. In such a case, gradual thawing by blocking the sunlight is needed. In
confusion, wrong path should not be taken. The treat is the same as dealing with a human
victim of frostbite.
 Humidity
The saturation level of the moisture in the air depends on the temperature of the air.
The saturation level in the high temperature is higher than the one in the low temperature.
Being near the saturation level means high humidity.
Although the air is dry in the high temperature of the daytime, humidity goes high
after the sunset because of lowering of the temperature. This tendency continues until the
morning. If the temperature goes too low and beyond the saturation point, condensation
occurs.
Even in a desert where extremely dry atmosphere is dominant, condensation occurs
in the night and dew is formed. No wonder since the gap of the temperatures between the
daytime and the night reaches over 30 degree Celsius. The gap of humidity is
considerable too. Desert should be regarded hot and dry in the daytime, cool and humid in
the night.
The high humidity in proper range encourages the growth of plants and if it goes too
much, overgrowth occurs and corruption could be caused. This is the cause of "the drown
of Mesembs in the air". Since watering is frequent in the case of cultivation of flowers and
vegetables in a glasshouse,
good ventilation with great care
is usually necessary.
Compared with this, only the
low humidity is required in the
case of Mesembs and it is
easier than the other plants.
However, failures can be
caused by the carelessness.
The point is not to regard the
overgrowth as preferable.
Although cactus can be
cultivated in such a way, it is a
gateway to corruption for
Mesembs.
The humidity around Mesembs should be considered very high like temperature near
the soil, if there is not much ventilation, especially after the watering.
In the case of cultivation in a glasshouse other than Mesembs, it is usual to water on
passages or benches for getting high humidity, expecting better growth of plants. This is
clearly coming from the consideration to distinguish humidity and moisture of the soil.
When we come across growing disorders of Mesembs, we tend to assume the cause is
the excess moisture of the soil. Since excess moisture of the soil necessarily results in
excess humidity especially in a glasshouse, such a hasty conclusion is tend to be drown.
The only way to solve the problem coming
from the high humidity is ventilation.
Ventilation lowers both humidity and
the amount of moisture of the soil.
According to the season, it lowers the
temperature too. Some people are afraid of
the possible delay of the growth caused by
this lowering of the temperature and
hesitate to ventilate well. However,
compared with the possible risks, it is clear
which should be given the high priority.
The effect of high humidity on plants
is remarkable under the
circumstance of high
temperature. Ventilation
should be utilized for
lowering both humidity and
temperature.
From spring to autumn,
ventilation is required.
Especially, enough
ventilation should be
required in summer and
after watering. Even in
winter, ventilation after
watering is reasonable. It is popular misunderstanding that evaporation is accelerated
keeping temperature high in an airtight condition. Considering the movement of the heat in
a constant volume of a glasshouse, it is understandable.
In general, plants for appreciation are cultivated in the high humidity and it is
assumed that juicy plants are preferable. Experts of cultivating Mesembs follow this idea
too and the humidity in their glasshouse is considerably high. The art on the verge of
corruption can be seen there. The machinelike exquisite skill makes such an artistic
temperature and humidity control possible. Beginners should not follow this.
It will be described later, in the case of unavoidable high humidity coming from the
structure of a glasshouse or the circumstance, considerable effort and scheme are
required for the management.

Sunlight
Sunlight led into a glasshouse
should be shaded at a certain level
except winter. The degree of the
shading should be controlled
according to the intensity of the
sunlight. In the case of a glasshouse,
painting white paint on the outside of
glass is popular method of shading. If
the thickness of the paint is thin or
uneven, plants get unexpected burn.
Valuable young seedlings or brags may
be lost at a time. Especially, this kind of
accident occurs in the early spring or in
the early autumn. Since in these periods,
the sunlight and glass make an almost
right angle and certain amount of the
sunlight penetrates glass without enough
reflection. Furthermore, since the plants
in the early stage of the growth are
delicate, they can be burnt easily. Disaster can be caused on a sunny day. In such an
accident, beginners become desperate and experts ridicule themselves with a wry smile. It
is often the case that a great baldness appears in a few hours in a beautifully grown colony
of Conophytum which likes mild sunlight.
Shading using paint is controlled by changing the thickness of the paint according to
the season, so that everyday maintenance is not applicable. Contrary to this, blinds are
ideal but the management is troublesome.
The white paint is made of hydrated lime and water. If sticking substance is added, it
cannot be peeled off easily. Notice should be paid after a heavy rain. When white paint
cannot be scraped off easily, diluted hydrochloric acid works. Since drops of hydrochloric
acid damage plants, some means are needed to prevent this. After removing the paint,
hydrochloric acid should be removed enough. Wiping with diluted ammonia neutralizes
hydrochloric acid and subsequent washing with water several times makes it thorough.
In the case of ordinary white paint, there is almost no need of peeling off. However,
scraping is only the way of removing and it is a heavy job.
The intensity of sunlight varies
in some degree at places even in a
glasshouse. The nearer the place is
to glass, the stronger the sunlight is.
However, the intensity of the
sunlight stays almost constant in
the range over 40-50cm from glass.
Thus, Lithops should be placed
near glass and Conophytum should
be placed far from glass.
 Watering
It is said that knowing the knack of watering takes 3 years. Experts say, "The
complexion of a plant tells its thirst". Beginners should be prudent. Watering is a delicate
job. The plants which prefer dry atmosphere like Mesembs need a little water and a lot of
air. If the amount of water is excess, a lot more air is needed. In the condition of the latter,
hydroponics is utilized for cultivating cactus and it would be applicable for Mesembs.
However, in the case of normal cultivation using soil, providing excess amount of water
makes lack of the air. Thus, taking the conditions of the former is the only way.
It is a tough question to put the range of the suitable moisture of the soil for Mesembs
into figures or words. However, it is similar to that of cactus and makes normal plants
withered.
It is the time to water, when humidity gets the lower limit of the suitable range. The
amount of given water should excess the suitable range so that water reach all around the
pot evenly. When the soil becomes old and permeation becomes poor, more water is
required. Although there is difference according to watering skill, the soil is in excess
 moisture after
watering in any
case. The amount of
moisture comes in
the suitable range in
1-3 days. The faster,
the better.
The suitable
time for watering
can be known from
the color of the
surface of the soil or
the terra-cotta pots.
More precise time
can be known by digging a hole in the soil and checking inside.
Although certain amount of water is needed for proper watering, enough and
minimum is preferable. It is not easy and the skill can be acquired from experience. If
water comes out from the bottom of a pot, it is over-watering. The proper amount of water
makes the soil of the bottom of a pot wet a little.
Digging and checking the soil should be done and the watering skill will be refined. If
the same soil is used for all the pots, estimation becomes easier.
As for the watering during the dormancy of Mesembs, there are two opinions; need
or no need. Since there is no reliable and precise test data, the conclusion is refrained
here. Both parties have their own accounts. However, it is hard to conclude physiology
with necessary and sufficient proof and it seems that both accounts have defects. This
subject has close relationship to temperature and humidity, and watering alone should not
be argued.
The reason of the latter is avoiding the death of roots coming from complete drying.
Among such ideas, there is an idea that watering should be done after the sunset,
avoiding the high temperature and high humidity in the daytime. It seems reasonable that
watering after sunset has the similar effect of dew of the habitat. Anyway watering during
dormancy needs prudence and it is an uphill task rather than the one of the growing
season.
Incidentally, the author belongs to the no watering party. There is a proverb; "Let
sleeping dogs lie."
 Glasshouse

Details of variety and structures of glasshouses are not stated and the observation
specialized in Mesembs is the subject here. A glasshouse is not isolated completely from
the outside environment. The outside environment has strong influence and sometimes it
is critical. Buildings and trees nearby function as wind protection or make ventilation poor
and temperature high. Sometimes it works
positively and sometimes it works
negatively according to the season.
Especially, intrusion of the transpiration
from outside bush, trees and grass is not
negligible. The garden surrounded by
dense forest may possibly get a certain
amount of sunlight but the high humidity
would cause a problem.
 Frame
There are varieties of frames;
penthouse/gambrel roof,
gentle/steep slant of roof,
small/large volume and so on.
Although each has advantages and
disadvantages, detail is not stated
here.
Frames which are directly built
on the ground tend to be humid
because of moisture from the
ground and the humid air of the
lower air layer. The deeper a frame is built under the ground or the higher the ground
water level, the stronger the tendency is. It is a method to shut out moisture from the
ground by putting biggish gravel on the floor.
Frames built over a building do not suffer such a trouble. Furthermore, the air of
upper layer is dry. Those frames tend to be rather too dry. Too much dryness should be
prevented by occasional sprinkling on the sand or charcoal placed on the floor. Attacks
from pests are extremely fewer than the ground level frames. However, protections against
cold and strong wind are required.
Since frames have less volume than glasshouses, fluctuations in temperature and
humidity is more sudden than glasshouses and more frequent window management is
required.
 Glasshouse
Generally, glasshouses
made for cactus are used.
Since the height of cactus is
low, the height of the roof is
near the ground and the
passage is dug under the
ground. This structure is
reasonable from the point of
view of keeping temperature
warm but not reasonable from
the point of view of ventilation.
Usually, the skylights are small
and few. As nurseries are trying to improve the structural defects to get better ventilation,
we would like to complain of insensitivity to design such a structure. On the other hand, it
is surprising that experts handle them effectively. I am not sure whether the experts know
Mesembs have such adaptation ability against environment, but their bold deed indicates
their skill as masters which could not be attained easily.
 Pots
For cultivation of Mesembs, it is better to choose pots which are fast to dry. However,
the degree of the moisture of soil comes from the composition and coarseness of the soil
and watering habit, to put extremely, any pot can be used with sufficient skill. Empirically,
square hard-baked pots like Tokoname-ware are suitable for an assortment of seedlings
and terra-cotta pots and Raku-ware are suitable for general use.
Raku-ware is expensive, broken easily and people have likes and dislikes against it
from the point of view of appreciation. However, it is most preferable from the point of view
of the cultivation.
Terra cotta is thin and has coarse surface. Too much dryness can be improved by
outside glazing. The drainage hole of the bottom is designed large. Since Terra cotta does
not have any defect, it is recommendable for beginners.
Square hard-baked pots are used for assortment, cutting and germination. It is an
advantage that they can be put without dead space.
 The proper size pot seems a little small in contrast with the size of a plant. Sheer
beginners tend to use big pots and it is wrong. It may come from shallow thought like this;
"Big pots should grow plants well" or "Since it is big enough, troublesome transplanting is
not necessary for a while". Seeking good ventilation, roots grow toward the periphery and
bottom of the pot and thin roots are formed at the ends. Although the main function of
roots is taking water in, thick roots which are in the center of the pot only work as pipes.
Big pots are rather harmful because they need a lot of soil and plumbing in vain and make
ventilation and drainage poor. It is reasonable from the fact mentioned above that an
almost similar size pot is proper for transplantation in a certain case. From the artistic
viewpoint, the unbalance seems rather funny. On the other hand, too small pots are hard
to control the moisture of the soil. Thus, certain volume is required for pots. If a plant is too
small, put other plants together in a pot so that the size of pot gets proper. In the case of
terra cotta, the minimum size of a pot is 3 inch in diameter. Thus, an assortment should be
formed for seedlings. Sort of cramming makes the growth fine.
Although the size of the drainage hole tends to be seen negligible, it has close
relationship to drainage and ventilation. There are pots which have small drainage hole or
biased small hole. If it is too small, it can be enlarged with a hammer easily.
 Crocks
Crocks are put between
the drainage hole and the soil.
They prevent leakage of the soil
and make drainage and
ventilation good. Broken pieces
of charcoal, pots, bricks, clods
and a mixture of these are used.
Proper amount of crocks for a
pot seems sort of too much in
the eyes of beginners. It is a
good example that experts of bonsai (dwarf tree in a pot) use considerable crocks for such
a small and shallow pot. Pebbles and gravel have good drainage and ventilation ability but
should be avoided because they do not keep water well. In the case of clods, they must be
strong enough not to be broken into small pieces. It is not easy to find such thing. The
amount of crocks used for a pot is about 1/4-1/3 to the height of the pot. Small pots need
less and big pots need more than this. Big crocks should be used for the lower layer and
small ones should be used for the upper layer. Diligence will be rewarded.

Watering Can
Ideal stream is thin, still and even. Thus, the tip of the watering matters most. The tip
should have the shape of a lotus flower, be made of cooper or brass, and have fine holes
that do not make streams crossed. Since smooth watering streams are not made without
considerably strong water pressure,
the pipe of the watering can should be
long. Popular watering can made in
English is designed fine from the point
of view of these. A needle or
something hard should not be used
when holes are choked. Such dealing
enlarges holes or makes water
streams in wrong direction. Cheap
watering cans used for sprinkling a
garden or a street are not designed
for cultivation use.
 Soil
Soil which is taken from the
habitat does not necessarily work
well. There is an old example; the soil
brought all the way from Mexico for
cultivation of cactus did not work well.
There is no expert of bonsai who
cultivates bonsais in the soil of
pinewood.
The study of soil has
progressed, but it will take long time that cultivators assimilate theories as common
knowledge. For now, funny opinions far from the truth are rampant.
It is common that a mixture of soil, sand and compost is used for a potted plant. This
is reasonable theoretically and empirically. In short, demands of plants are met by giving
them the composite soil which has characteristics of each materials. Composite soil is
used for Mesembs too.
"The more fertile, the better"; this is too lay thinking and it is similar that incompetent
farmers give vegetables too much fertilizer and hunt the latest fertilizers. Agriculture has
stepped into the times of soil from the times of fertilizer.
The composite soil for Mesembs requires good drainage, good ventilation and good
water holding ability. As these conditions are the same with other plants, there is no need
to emphasize. However, it
is often the case that
normal plants can
somehow survive, even if
they are not given the three
conditions at the same
time. In the case of
Mesembs, these three
conditions could be crucial.
Mesembs requires the
composite soil which tends
to be rather dry but does
not dry up completely for a
long time.
 Varieties of composite soils which have different ingredients and different ratio of
ingredients are used for Mesembs. Apart from price and facility, the effectiveness for
growth is not so different.
Beginners tend to find difficulty which composite soil they should use, but the popular
composite soil which also masters of Mesembs are using should be tried first and for the
time being.
Now take a look at the popular composite soil which is a mixture of sand, compost
and limestone, and new type of soil which seems preferable from these few years of my
experience and theories.
Sand has a good drainage and good ventilation. Compost has good water holding
ability and drainage and ventilation are not so bad, if it is not so fine. Thus, the mixture of
these two fills all the required conditions. Although soil has unique characteristics, it also
has defects. Furthermore, it is difficult to arrange the same characteristics because the
characteristics of soil differ according to the locality. Certainly, the characteristic of sand
differs according to the locality too, but the difference is not so much. Thus,
standardization of composite based on sand should be an excellent idea. This idea might
have come from the cultivation technique of bonsai.
 Sand
Although the sand which is
taken from riverbed is the best, the
sand taken from mountain is
applicable. It is said that the sand
which is taken from the riverbed of
the upper stream and has sharp
corners are preferable. Sand may
be different according to the
locality, that is going too far to
seek better sand. As a substitute
or expecting other effect, new materials like Vermiculite can be used. Red clay of Kantou
plane is all right too. The size of sand should be bigger than the one for concrete. 0.5-3.0
mm in diameter is preferable. There is an argument whether extremely fine sand should be
removed. Since it has relationship to the habit of watering, there is no generalization for
this issue.
Sand should be washed before use. There is an opinion that washing is not needed,
since sand is not dirty from the first and it is troublesome. However, certain impurities
should be implied and cleanliness cannot bear such a thing. Since there is no harm
caused by washing, it is recommended.
 Compost
Compost implies organic matter
and minerals, and unapprehended
factors can be expected. Most
important characteristic is it adds the
good water holding ability and the
good drainage ability to the composite
soil. After the early rapid fermentation
accompanying the fever, compost
matures very slowly. Thus, the
effectiveness is kept for a long time during cultivation.
There are varieties of compost and the characteristics vary. The one which implies
substances which cause problems or seeds of weeds should be avoided. Also too
fermented and soft one should be avoided because it does not have any good
characteristics any more.
As compost which is made from cottonseeds, Peat is a well-known product. The main
material is cottonseed. Organic matter, minerals and limestone are added, and the mixture
is fermented. Since the main characteristics
are coming from the cottonseeds, other
materials are not necessarily needed. I
think it is the best compost because of its
shape, structure, lightweight and good
handling. The lees of the cottonseed oil can
be used as the material.
The recipe of compost is like this.
Soak leaves or seeds into water. The
proper amount of water makes a trickle when it is clasped by a hand. The moisture lost by
fermentation should be added from time to time. It should be piled over 2 to 3 times so that
the fermentation proceeds evenly and continuously. If the moisture is maintained properly,
the procedure completes in about 3 months and the result will be fine. Too long
fermentation is nonsense. Although there is an opinion claiming the need of half a year
fermentation, it must come from poor skill or timidity. After fermentation, it should be dried
enough and can be stored. It is said that the preferable trees for compost are evergreens
like oak and chinquapin or deciduous trees like Japanese oak. Good compost is fermented
enough but the shape of leaf is kept and could be cut by hands easily. The one which does
not have original shape of leaf any more and seems like mud should be avoided. Adding a
little nitrogen and superphosphate of lime makes compost plump and soft.

Lime
Shells, mortar and
limestone powder are
used. Although there are
some opinions about the
superiority and inferiority of
these materials, those are
not coming from precise
experimental data and it
seems only the art of
narration. Since oyster
shells for chicken farming
is easy to get, it is used in
general.
 Charcoal
Charcoal made from rice
husks is popular. It makes
ventilation, drainage and water
holding ability good, includes a little
minerals, makes the temperature of
the composite soil warm, makes the
composite soil plump and soft.
Although there are people who do
not use it, it is too good to be left.

Composition
Popular composition of materials is 70% of sand, 20% of compost and 10% of
charcoal. Not so strict. It is a wrong thought that a little more compost raises plants well. It
will make plants leggy. Mixing them is done in a moisturized state. If materials are dry,
they do not mingle together evenly. The completed composite soil should be moist; not slip
off from a hand but not adhesive to a hand. In this state, it can be used for potting
immediately. If it dries up, add some water and mix it well again.

Sterilization
It is all right that sand and compost are sterilized by airing in the sunlight. However,
perfect sterilization is not expected from the sunlight. Sterilization should be done in the
composite state. Chemicals can be used but it also needs troublesome process. Steam
sterilization is recommendable method especially for an amateur who uses only small
amount. Put composition into a cloth bag and steam the bag in a rice cooker for 30
minutes. There is no chance the
nourishment volatilizes. There is
another method; roasting on a hot
plate. However, the sterilization is
done completely, compost tend to be
burnt. If sterilization is done in the
degree that compost is not burnt, the
sterilization tends to be not enough. It
is naive to think that fire is stronger
than steam.
 New soil
Although new composition is
stated in "particulars" section, some are
added here. The composite soil for
Mesembs inevitably implies soil in
foreign countries. Since soil has
apprehended and unapprehended
effects on plants, adoption of soil
should be considered. However, unlike
sand, there are varieties of soil and the
characteristics are different. So the
choice of the soil matters. Most
required characteristics are the lump of
the soil should not corrupt easily. The
soil which has such a characteristics
cannot be gotten everywhere.
Furthermore, notice is required
because soil can bring in germs unlike sand. As for the lumping matter, a newly developed
soil conditioner can control the size of the lump. Lumping composite soil is hard to do in
the case of sandy soil and is easy if the soil has certain viscosity. Detail is omitted.
 Transplantation
Best time for
transplantation of Mesembs is
the beginning of growth after
dormancy. However, it is all right
to transplant them in their
growing season for some
reason. Annual transplantation
is necessary and semiannual
transplantation is better.
Foreign documents claim
transplantation in 2 to 3 years.
Although the climate and the
cultivation habit are different
from those of Japan, it is sort of
surprising. A lot of experiences in Japan indicate the effectiveness of transplanting.
With the passing of time, soil changes plump and soft to solid and hard, water
absorbing ability lowers and nutrition is drained. This makes the growth of plants poor.
However, transplantation improves the situation and also gives us a good opportunity to
find and cure pests and disease around roots and to check the state of roots.
Beforehand with transplanting, damaged parts of roots and considerable thin parts
are cut and the wounds should be dried in the shade for a few days not to rotten from
there. Since roots have strong regenerative potential, new parts extend in a few days.
The soil for transplantation should be moist, plump and soft. This softness is
important so that there are enough space for good ventilation and water supply. Thus, the
soil should not be pressed by fingers.
The lower part of plants is apt to rot, so that the soil should not touch the part by
placing a layer of gravel.
The pot should be moisturized enough with water before transplanting. In the case of
dried pot, it absorbs water from the soil even if water is given on the soil. Namely, it takes
time that the water balance among the pot, the soil and watering settles down, like a love
triangle. Although it is possible to water immediately after transplanting, it is safe to wait a
few days. Especially it is a little risky, if the wound was not dried in the shade for some
reason or other. Shading by putting a sheet of thin white paper on the plant for a few days
is also needed.
 Fertilizer
The growth of Mesembs is very slow,
so that very little fertilizer is enough for
them. Furthermore, little watering does not
drain the fertilizer unlike the other plants,
so that the fertilization would not be
needed until the next transplantation that
will be held half a year or a year later.
Thus, the claim that especial fertilization is not needed seems reasonable. However,
in the case that the soil has little nutrition like Peat or certain nutrition is consumed
particularly, additional fertilizer may be needed.
Too frequent fertilization is harmful and moderate frequency is safe. It is often the
case that too high concentrated liquid fertilizer causes trouble. Ignorance and greed are
the source of the cause. The wrong use of fertilizer makes slanders against fertilizer
general or certain fertilizers. In the first place, liquid fertilizer is designed to be used diluted.
Ignoring this causes troubles and makes a phobia for chemical fertilizer. For general plants
chemical fertilizer should be diluted 1/1000, so that 3 to 5 times thinner dilution than the
manual says suits Mesembs. The amount which seems extremely little is enough and
more than that is risky. Once in 2 to 3 weeks is enough.
Oilcake should be diluted so that the diluted liquid has slight color.
Kneaded fertilizer is the solid fertilizer made from fermented organic matter. It is
recommendable for its convenience that it can be preserved.
There are some recipes to make it and here is an example.
Mix rape oil and soil at 1 to 3-5 ratio. Knead the mixture with
water and make it into sticks like pencils and make them
fermented in a box for avoiding harm from pests. During this
process, supply moisture sometimes and it will be completed
in a few months. If 1/5 of rape oil is replaced with rice hulls
and charcoal, it reasonably adds phosphate and potassium.
Crack the sticks into a proper size and mix small amount of
them in to soil at use.
In the case of chemical fertilizer, avoid putting them in
soil without dilution. The proper amount is little volume and it
is hard to deliver such a small amount even.
 Diseases and Pests
The progress of pesticides and
medicines is remarkable and it is
completely different from before the
war. Although we tend to be afraid of
side effects, it should be used. Since
side effects relate to the density of
pesticide, notice should be taken. It
lowers the risk to apply the sample to
some pots for testing. Since pests
intrude all the time, periodical supplement of pesticide is required. As for medicines, they
aim prevention and not a curative effect, occasional sprinkling is required. Since certain
medicines cause side effects, notice should be taken. In the case of disease of roots of
Lithops and the like, it can be cured by cutting the affected part in the early stage.

Appreciation and Collection

Everyone has the own way of appreciation and collection. Although it may not get the
agreement of majority, my opinion is as follows.
The goal is to make gigantic colonies. Long-term earnest cultivation is required for
this. It may be lovely to cultivate all varieties of Lithops one by one. In the case of cactus,
one can be instantaneous great collector, getting a lot of specimen with money through
certain connection. However, in the case of Mesembs, this does not work, at least, for
now.
The maximum size of
colony differs according to
species. For instance, most of
Argyroderma do not split often.
The size of leaves of a
colony tends to be smaller than
the one of solitary plant and
some people detest this
tendency. Also there are people
who love the bigger plants. Big
plants could be cultivated by
giving a lot of fertilizer and water with risk. However, it is almost unavoidable that plants
lose their particular color and patterns. Such a conduct comes from distorted aesthetics.
As for collection, one plant for each species is not enough. At least, two plants for
each species is needed. The way to gigantic colonies is long and it is often the case to
study from failures. Knowing the habit of each species and getting the knack of cultivation
is required.
 PARTICULARS
(extracts)

This section describes varieties of Mesembs and the cultivating tips.

Lithops
Lithops is a succulent plant whose habitat is Great Namaqualand and Little
Namaqualand in southeast of Africa. Lithops consists of as many as about 80 species. It is
reported that about 80% of them have been imported in Japan.
Lithops has no stem and clumps well. A pair of leaves is united into one body which
is cylindrical or conical. The fissure at the top indicates the vestige of two leaves.
The shape of the top is flat or convex, or slightly concave in particular cases. The top
has a lot of variations: some have transparent windows which cover the top partly or fully,
some have dots, and some have lines. The color of the body is brownish, bluish, or
 whitish. The patterns and windows are
dark green, reddish brown, crimson, or
grayish green. The shape, color and
pattern are mimicry of stones of the
habitat and it is quite rare for a plant. A
flower appears from the fissure on the
top and the color is white or yellow. The
period of flowering is long. The size of
flower is 3-4cm in diameter.
Some of Lithops grow in winter and
the others grow in summer. Winter growers begin to grow in September and enter the
dormancy in May. Summer growers begin to grow in March and enter the dormancy in
October. The flowering season of winter growers is autumn (September to November) and
the dormant period is summer (July to August). The flowering season of summer growers
is June to July and the dormancy period is winter. Some species are classified neither a
winter grower nor a summer grower. In such a case, either treatment suits them.
The growing cycle mentioned above is the case of central Japan. According to
German documents, most of species grow in summer. It seems that cultivation in winter is
hard in a region which is much higher in latitudes than central Japan. As the geography of
Japan extends from
north to south and
climates vary, the
difference should be
taken into account.
The new body of
Lithops appears from the
fissure at the top, or
sometimes from the side
of the old body. The new
one assimilates the
nourishment of the old
body. Consequently, the old body changes into thin skin. This regeneration is commonly
called ecdysis in Japan, and the season is early spring in the case of winter growers and
May to June in the case of summer growers. Although once a year is normal, seedlings
tend to regenerate 2-3 times a year. Even adults sometimes regenerate twice a year,
however, it is not healthy growth. Regenearation is a peculiar growing process to globular
Mesembs and extremely bizarre and fascinating.
A fully-grown Lithops often splits into two heads when regenerates. As the result,
even it is rare but a colony of 30 heads is formed. Although there is difference among
species, multiplication does not occur without healthy growth of the previous year. 10
single heads which flowered autumn split into 20 heads the next spring. The 20 heads split
into 40 heads, the 40 head
splits into 80 heads, the 80
heads split into 160 heads
with age. Of course, this is
a dream of cultivators and
Lithops does not
necessarily increase
twofold. Anyway, it is often
the case that Lithops
increases year after year
and forms a marvelous
colony. A large colony into
which many years are
poured has high appreciation value.
Although the number of heads in a
colony depends on species, species
which have small body, species whose
bodies are bluish, and winter growers
tend to multiply well.
There is a colony of bluish species
which consists of over 50 heads in my
nursery. It seems such a multiplication
is limited only in Japan and there is no
similar case in the habitat or foreign countries. Dr. Jacobsen of Germany described,
"Lithops appears to be happy in Japan" in his great book "A Handbook of Succulent
Plants". Although the climate of Japan does not seem best for Lithops, the climate is
blessed a little better than Germany and glasshouses enable to reproduce the similar
conditions of the habitat to a certain degree. Since every Japanese has good manual
dexterity and delicate sensitivity coming from the national characteristics, these facilitate
the dealing of seedlings. All these things may have had him describe such a comment.
Watering, temperature and exposure to the sunlight are points to notice for cultivating
Lithops. Although Lithops requires moisture in the soil in its growing season, alternation
between wet and dry is desirable. In the case of half or fully grown up Lithops, both
dryness which makes the roots thin and the body withered and water which overflows from
the drainage hole are sometimes needed. Frequent unsatisfactory watering does not fit
Lithops. It is important to reduce the occasions to wet the body and the surface of the soil.
Small ones need more frequent watering and much more water than adults.
Light watering is desirable not to
wither seedlings extremely during
dormancy. However, in the case of adults
or a colony, water should be cut off
completely to give them sound sleep.
When the season of dormancy
comes, Lithops gradually loses its vigor,
and the body gets withered afterward.
Although no false sympathy is needed,
occasional water spray after sunset in the
extremely hot period makes
temperature a little low and relieves
the shrink. It also softens the mind of
the cultivator.
As mentioned before, dormancy
is indispensable growing process for
Mesembs including Lithops.
However, they do not idle away the
dormancy period in vain. A flower
bud and new leaves are being formed at the bottom of the inner body. The shrink coming
from dormancy is the contraction before the leap.
Watering during regeneration should be prudent. As the swollen new body breaks
through the slit of the old body by force, certain laceration is inevitable. In proportion to the
growth of the new body, the old body withers. Water should not be poured onto the wound
or between the old body and the new body until the new body takes the place of the old
body. The watering can which has a small spout or a pitcher is preferable. In the case of
seedlings, the recovery is fast and inconsiderate watering pouring onto the heads does not
cause serious damage. If water is not given for 1-2 weeks during regeneration, the new
 body absorbs the water only from the old
body and it accelerates the shift. This is a
clever way to return to the normal status
as fast as possible.
As for temperature, the temperature
which human beings feel comfortable
suits Lithops. However, summer growers
flower in the temperature which is 5-10
degree Celsius hotter than that, it seems
that they prefer a little hotter atmosphere.
The growing season of winter growers is
autumn to spring and it is not so difficult to
put them under the proper temperature
range using cold protection.
It is not necessarily fatal to be exposed to a few degrees below the freezing point or
35-40 degree Celsius, if they are gradually acclimated to such a hard condition.
Temperature tolerance is different according to species. Anyway, cold protection with
straw mats during night is needed in the north of central Japan in winter, and heat
protection with maximum ventilation and shading is needed all over Japan in summer.
Lithops likes sunlight so that it is called "children of the sun". The habitat
Namaqualand seems that the temperature is high, the soil and the air are dry, and the
sunlight is strong in the greater part of the year and we assume Lithops to be exposed to
the strong sunlight all the time. However, as it does not have thorns or hair which protects
the body from the sunlight like a cactus, it grows among the rocks or among the other
plants to protect the naked
body. Even if it is a child of
the sun, it is too hard to live
receiving the strong sunlight
almost right on the equator all
day long.
The sunlight in Japan is
far milder than that of the
habitat, and the sunlight
coming through the glass is
comfortable except summer.
 To cultivate them artistically, sunlight
and heat protection using shading is
needed during May to September.
It is handy to paint limewater or
to use bamboo blinds for shading.
Although the one which is dormant
or a seedling needs the shading of a
certain degree in summer, light
shading is enough in general.
Although there is a time lag
according to regions, there is no
need of shading during the later half
of September to early half of May in
Nagano. As the day is short and the sunlight is weak in winter, the sunbathing should be
as long as possible on a sunny day, especially in the region with heavy snowfall.
Insufficient sunlight makes the body leggy and atypical, and the color fades. As winter is
growing season for winter growers, dust on the glass should be brushed off occasionally
with affection.
As for the soil, although a lot of troublesome suggestions were proposed, it is a rare
plant which demands least for its soil through all succulent plants in deed. Although
Lithops is a plant for appreciation and certain amount of fertilizer should be given, there is
no need to give a lot of fertilizer and excess fertilizer is rather harmful.
Although 80% of sand from riverbed and 20% of peat is safest composition, 1/3 of
clod of earth as the bottom layer improves the growth. There is almost no need of worry for
drainage. Lithops does not get root rot easily like cacti. The weakest part is the bottom of
the body, so that the soil rather
needs water-holding ability. It is the
best soil which has high viscosity
for the clod, almost any soil has
enough water holding ability. The
proper size of clod is the size of a
pea to a thumb.
The main purpose of
transplantation is the renewal of the
soil. The nutrition of a potted plant
 comes only from the soil and the
soil should be renewed for the
healthy growth. The permeation
and the drainage of the soil
gradually get worse and watering
in a year drains the nutrition.
Furthermore, the size of the pot
becomes small for the plant as the
result of growth.
The best time for
transplantation is right after the
dormancy and beginning of the growth. If there are a lot of plants, it is impossible to
transplant them all at a time during the time. However, there is no harm to transplant them
during the growing season. Although a transplantation a year is needed, it seems more
than once does not do any good. Famous European authorities claim transplantation in a
few years is enough. As they cannot deal with small seedlings because they are too
clumsy to use chopsticks, there is no help for it. However, it is strange that they also claim
fully-grown up Lithops need transplantation once in a few years.
When transplanting a plant, withered roots and too long roots should be cut without
hesitation. It makes transplantation easy and growth of new roots fast. If pests are found
around the root, pesticide should
be sprinkled.
Although seed propagation
is common for Lithops,
propagation by cutting an offset
is possible too. Buying seeds
from a reliable nursery is the
shortcut. However, it is difficult to
get seeds which have high
germination ratio even from
foreign nurseries. It is very
interesting to collect seeds from
your own plants. As a Lithops
does not pollinate itself, two or
more Lithops which have grown
 up from seeds are needed for pollination. The
parents should be selected carefully because the
characters of the pedigrees appear on the children
clearly. It is important to select with deep
consideration in terms of shape, color and pattern.
Although it is sometimes hard to distinguish the
species in the case of Lithops, Conophytum and
Argyroderma, the features can be known by
observation throughout a year.
The parent plants are to be cultivated in the same environment and to be made
flower at the same period for artificial pollination. As it is difficult to adjust the timing of
flowering, it is better to prepare 3-4 or more candidates. In the case of a colony, the
flowering period of each head has a time lag and preparing two colonies makes pollination
easy. Hybridization without specific scientific purpose should be avoided. Horticulturists
must not lose respect to purity of species. If the flowering periods disagree, put down the
brush for pollination gracefully and wait until next year with horticultural conscience and
serenity.
Autumnal Lithops continues to flower a week or more even under fine weather. The
pistil opens into a star-shape a few days after flowering, and it is the time to pollinate.
Pollen taken from stamen is put on stigma by a soft brush or an edge of a small paper
string. As stigma is very small and soft especially at the edge, pollination should be done
quite carefully. Pollinated ovary swells day after day and matures completely in 6-7
months. Completed seeds should be taken as it is with the shell and stored for more 5-6
months. If the seeds are sewn without maturity procedure, the germination ratio is very low
and the growth is very uneven. Conversely, the seeds completed maturity procedure has
quite good germination ratio. The
best time for sowing is autumn or
spring. September to November
or March to April is the preferable
time. If temperature can be
maintained high enough, winter is
also exploitable. Although
germination starts 5-6 days after
sowing to the clean sand taken
from a riverbed, sometimes it
 takes 1 month to complete. As there
are cases that 2-3 months to
complete, quite long-term
management should be tried for
valuable species.
The soil for germination is
pure sand without any nourishment
and seedlings should be
transplanted to the soil which has
nutrition to accelerate the growth.
Although the soil for seedlings is
the same one for grown-ups, the
surface should be covered with the
layer of sand of 1-2cm in depth. As
seedlings are very small and soft, the first transplantation should be done carefully. As all
Japanese can use chopsticks well, the skill should be brought into full play.
The seeds of Mesembs are small in general. The seeds of Dinteranthus are smallest
and the seeds of Conophytum, Lithops, and Ophthalmophyllum follow. The size of a
seedling is proportional to the seed and it is about the size of a grain of millet or rice at the
first transplantation. The growth after the transplantation is fast and the seedling which is
sown in spring sheds off the skin in summer and the diameter reaches 1cm in a year.
It takes 3-4 years for flowering from the germination and multiplication into two comes
the next year at best. Furthermore, it takes a few more years to reach 5-6 heads. Thus, a
large colony is valuable and its value is proportional to the numbers of heads. However, it
is safe to divide for multiplication in the case of valuable and vulnerable species. Dividing
an offset is easy; cut a head from the
roots by a sharp knife, dry the wound for
a few days in shade and plant it on sand.
Roots extend after 1-2 weeks later and
transplant it to the soil which has
nutrition and cultivate it ordinarily.
Although the best time for cutting is the
beginning of the growth after dormancy,
roots extend during all the growing
season.
 Conophytum
Conophytum is the one of the two noblest families ranked with Lithops in Mesembs.
The habitat is the same to that of Lithops; Great Namaqualnad and Little Namaqualand.
According to documents, the family consists of about 300 species. It was introduced to
Japan almost at the same time as Lithops was. Some of round-shaped Conophytum,
L.pseudotruncatella and L.pseudotrurcatella "Mundtii" were imported on the heels of the
other.
Although there are not enough records to tell how many species have been imported
to Japan, about 100 species have got Japanese names. Some of them have multiple
names, and some of them have different names but they are identical in deed.
Furthermore, some of them have scientific name only. Thus, it is difficult to grasp the real
figure. Also a lot of new species have been introduced recently, Conophytum family is
getting larger than Lithops family these days.
It is very difficult to explain the shapes of Conophytum. Dr.Jacobsen has classified
Conophytum into 45 types. Shapes of Conophytum differ by the way of cultivation. Also
Conophytum changes its shape according to the season. It seems there is no end if details
 are taken into account.
Conophytum are grouped into 3
types in Japan; round type, saddle
type and mitten type. This grouping
is only for the sake of convenience;
some fit for the name really well
and some does not fit so much.
Also difference can be seen in
each type. As for round type, there
are difference in size, width, height,
degree of roundness, and flatness
of the top. As for saddle type, there
are two humps, however, the depth
of the dent varies. Mitten type has
prominent two projections and there is a ditch between them and the depth of the ditch
varies, too. In general, mitten type is bigger than the other types.
The skin of Conophytum is flat and smooth or has velvety cilia. Dots, lines, pattern
and the color differ by species. The skin and the odd-looking shape display various
expressions; smile, doze, shyness, coquettishness and so on. It is really full of expression.
Besides, it changes the expression when it gets swelling by watering.
The shape and color of flowers of Conophytum are also full of variety. The diameter
varies from 3cm to less than 1cm. The color is yellow, white, purple, red, pink, brown, rosy
and so on, and the variety is richer than
that of Lithops. 1/3 of Conophytum are
nocturnal, and some of them present
the group dancing of nymphs in cool
autumn nights for a few weeks.
The form of Conophytum in
dormancy is more distinct than any
other Mesembs. In general, the dormant
season is summer except some species
like C.frutescens. The body withers and
becomes grayish white without
exception. The newly growing body has
already been tucked up inside the old
 body. The dormant period is about 3
months long; from the end of May to the
end of August. However, there is a little
difference among districts and species.
The growth resumes in the lingering
summer heat. The new body appears by
breaking through its old skin after 1-2
watering in the season. Literally, it is
regeneration. As it is often the case that
multiplication into two or more can be
observed, it is quite pleasant season. A colony of round type can reach 60 heads and that
of mitten type can reach 40 heads. Multiplication is the result of the healthy growth of the
previous year and there are cases that an old individual does not multiple. Increase of
heads means a gain in appreciation value and it is pleasure for both professionals and
amateurs. It depends on the species and the cultivation technique but heads usually
increase twofold. Starting single head, the count of heads reaches 32 heads in 5 years,
128 heads in 7 years, 1024 heads in 10 years.
As mentioned above, Conophytum have lovely and beautiful forms, display colorful
flowers, the extraordinary growing process, and gorgeous colonies with age. Furthermore
it increases twofold. Conophytum are plants of living treasure indeed.
The cultivation of
Conophytum is similar to that of
Lithops. However it is a little
easier than Lithops in general.
Although Conophytum should
be moist during the growing
season, occasional cutoff of
water is needed as a short rest
and for its health and beauty.
Watering during dormancy
should be prudent. Although
species which has large body
like mitten type has stamina
which is proportional to its
volume and complete cutoff of
 water does not cause any trouble, 3
months of cutoff of water may kill the
small one like round type or saddle
type. It depends on the sunlight,
temperature, humidity and
ventilation during dormancy,
however, occasional watering to
prevent excess withering is needed.
As Conophytum is far more
complicated species than Lithops as
it can be seen in their forms and
their sizes, it is obvious that the
growing seasons and dormant
seasons are not uniform. Although
there are species whose growing periods are very short from their appearances, somehow
it seems a little improper to leave them in half dormancy without water during the rest of
the time.
In the countries which have comparatively clear four seasons like Japan, the growing
cycle of plants is similar to the calendar of human beings. However, in the country which
has extremely ambiguous change of the season from the viewpoint of temperature, it
seems that perennial plants
follow the cycle of humidity.
However, it might be wrong
to leave small Conophytum
which has extremely short
growing period in half dormancy
for a long time. Although there
are not many documents which
state the detail of the climate of
the habitat, it is what cultivators
of Mesembs want to know most.
There are some species in
large mitten type like
C.frutescens which has a unique
growing cycle. This species
 begins its growing cycle in June,
regenerates immediately, and
comes into bud at the same time
and flower in June to July. The
growth stops in September and
there is no change until the next
June. It is really an odd species.
However, it is better to water
occasionally even during
dormancy.
It is very smart of them to
minimize transpiration by covering the body with the old skin completely. Middle and large
size species can live for 3 months without water. If the rainy season is long and humidity is
high, or there is unexpected water supply coming from the leak from the roof or whimsical
watering, the new body comes out from the old skin. Without any water supply,
transpiration makes the soft new body withered extremely. Thus, in such a case,
occasional watering is required.
The body should be kept as dry as possible during watering. Especially, as a cluster
has a lot of old skins and does not dry easily, attention should be paid. However, if there
are a lot of pots, it cannot be helped to water them
from over the heads at a time according to the
limitation of time and labor. In such a case, watering
on a sunny day is the best option and water on the
surface and among bodies should be dried as fast
as possible utilizing ventilation except in mid winter.
The one which consists of a few heads or less can
be watered from over the heads.
Conophytum is also a "children of the sun" and it needs a lot of sunlight. However, it
needs a little weaker sunlight than Lithops; 80% of that of Lithops seems suitable. As
mentioned before, the size and form of Conophytum vary and proper amount of sunlight
varies too. Although it is considered common that large species need much sunlight than
small ones, the color of the body and the flower should be taken into account. Yellow and
white reflect sunlight well and it is considered that the one which has one of these colors
lives in considerably strong sunlight in the habitat. The one which has brown, pink or red
flower follows these, and purple is the next. As Lithops has flower of yellow or white only,
mitten type Conophytum which has large body and yellow flower should be put under the
sunlight almost the same level to that of Lithops. Species which has flower of dark color
should be put under weaker sunlight.
 Although it is the same to Lithops
that full sunlight in the growing season
and shading in the dormancy are
suitable, small species needs heavier
shading than that of Lithops. The
shortage of sunlight in the growing
season not only makes the body leggy,
the form atypical, and the color fades,
but also makes them weak and induces
rot. Therefore, cultivation under the
glass without any shading is desirable
during its peak of growth, namely
between late autumn to winter.
Cold tolerance is similar to that of winter growing Lithops; kind of hardy. The
minimum temperature is the freezing point. Heat tolerance is much higher than that of
Lithops which rests without skin in summer.
The soil for Conophytum is similar to that of Lithops. However, as small round pots
are often used for Conophytum, adding granular soil is effective. As there is almost no
worry of root rot, like Lithops, it is sensible to reduce the frequency of watering applying
the soil which has sort of good water holding ability. The suitable season for
transplantation is September to October which is the early stage of the growth. However,
any time in the growing period is
fine. Although foreign documents
state transplantation once a few
years is enough, once a year is
required because nutrition is lost,
the acid from the root induces
oxidization, and drainage gets
worse in the case of small pot
cultivation. Mentioned before, the
growth in its peak is remarkable
and fresh soil becomes new
growth.
The withered thin roots and
old soil should be removed from
the plant which is taken out from a pot. If lice are found around roots, pesticide should be
sprinkled. Also it is a chance to remove the old skin and divide offset from rootstock.
Although certain amount of the old skin in a cluster has a kind of beauty, it should be
removed not to keep the base part wet. Removing the old skin is also preferable from the
viewpoint of the standard aesthetics. As Conophytum has short roots, it should be planted
in shallow. Tall ones should be supported with small gravel.
Propagation can be done by seed or division. Conophytum is the species which
multiplies very well, dividing offsets is popular propagation method. The suitable season
for division is early September when is the early stage of the growth. Although the divided
offset extends the root in 2 weeks, it takes more time for some species, if the timing is late.
In the case of Lithops, division is rarely done without some exception. However, in the
case of Conophytum, it is often the case that multiplication rate gets worse, the individuals
become small, long or thin, the form of the colony becomes bad after a colony reaches its
limit. In such a case, division should be done. In the case of especial propagation, the one
which has good multiplication ability should be chosen.
The limit of quantity of heads in a colony differs by species. In general, species which
has small body tends to form a large colony and species which has large body tends to
 form a small colony in number. In
my experience, C.notatum and
C.pictum reach 200 heads,
C.elishae reaches 40 heads,
C.springbokense and
C.muscosipapillatum reach 30
heads. Dividing the offset of the
lower part of the colony which has
reached the limit keeps the growth
well and the form of the colony
beautiful.
Transplantation is also a good time to divide offsets. The heads should be cut by
scissors at first. Subsequently, the wound should be cut by a safety razor cleanly. In the
case of small species, 2-3 heads can be divided and planted together. However, in the
case of dividing a new body of mitten type, notice should be paid. Although the suitable
place for cutting is the nearest part of the body, root does not extend from there if the
tissues of the cutting part are damaged. The divided head should be dried in shade for a
few days and planted in clean sand from a riverbed. Root extends soon. It begins to grow
vigorously after being transplanted to ordinary soil.
It is difficult to get seeds of certain species. Conophytum does not self-pollinate itself
generally like Lithops, and another individual of the same species is needed. As it is often
the case that offsets from an individual have spread throughout Japan, it is difficult to
pollinate even if another individual can be gotten somehow. Especially, round type which
multiplies easily falls into this case. Adults of some mitten type and saddle type which are
raised from seeds can be gotten and it is pleasure to raise them from seeds.
 Purity of species is important from
the viewpoint of horticultural conscience
and cross-pollination should be
abstained like the case of Lithops.
Although the way of pollination and the
timing are the same to those of Lithops,
the growth is much slower than that of
Lithops. In the case of mitten type, the
shape is round the first year, the center
bulges a little and red line of the keel
appears the second year, and it looks like mitten in some way the third year. Although it
takes two more years to form the particular shape, cutting accelerates it relatively.
Multiplication occurs in 3 years in the case of early grower but it is difficult to distinguish
the species from such a seedling.
Like this, the growth of Conophytum from seeds is much slower than the other plants.
However, it is pleasure to live with the seedling and observe it calmly. It takes 5 years from
seed to flowering and 5 more years to grow to complete adult. Although most cultivators
have to wait 5 to 7 years, thankfully, it seems God gives them extra lifetime.
Seedlings are very small and should be kept in the proper moisture not to dry for
about 2 years. It seems reasonable to acclimate to the ordinary environment from the third
year.
Healthy Conophytum almost does not suffer from diseases. Although too long high
humidity period makes the bottom of the body rot, small gravel laid on the surface of the
soil prevents rot as mentioned before. Much moisture of the soil, high humidity, and
shortage of sunlight induce fungus. Germicide is
effective in such a case. Although some of mitten
type suffers from a black spot, the cause and the
remedy have not been found yet. Fortunately,
this disease is not infectious and the spot does
not spread. However, the spot will not disappear
completely even after several times of
regeneration.
As for pests, except root lice mentioned
before, red lice gather to the body. Pesticide
should be used in such a case.
 Ophthalmophyllum
The habitat is southeast of
Africa and Great Namaqualand.
Stunted, no stem and highly
thickened. The body consists of a
pair of leaves merged into one. The
shape is cylindrical or conical. The
top is swollen and transparent.
Although the skin is either smooth or
mastoidal, both types have velvety
cilia. The body is elastic like rubber.
Some species form a colony of about
10 heads, but Ophthalmophyllum
does not form a large colony like
Lithops or Conophytum. Flower is white, light vermilion, crimson or greenish rosy and
about 2cm in diameter, and charming. It flowers in October to November and lasts long.
Although propagation by seeds is typical, divided offsets and cutting grow the root easily.
Most seedlings flower in 3 years. The growing season is autumn (September) to spring
(May). Although adult needs complete cutoff of water for dormancy in summer, it is better
not to cutoff water completely in the case of seedlings younger than 3 years old. Generally,
cultivation is similar to that of Lithops. However, it is smaller than Lithops, sunlight during
dormancy should be shaded to the level which is proper for Conophytum. According to the
documents, it seems there are about 17 species. Although there is a record that 10
species were imported in
Japan before the 2nd World
War, it seems about half
species exist including the
species imported afterward.
As there are a lot of species
which look very alike, the
confusion of classification
remains still now.
Ophthalmophyllum is an
excellent species in pretty
and beautiful flowers.
 Dinteranthus
The habitat is Great Namaqualand. No stem and
highly thickened. A pair of leaves merged into one at
the base. The top is hemispheric and keels are there.
The color of the body is greenish light gray and a subtle
tinge of brown and red can be seen. Some species
have dark spots on the surface. The skin is smooth or
wrinkled. When it reaches fully adult, it splits and make

a colony. The flower is vivid yellow, big and beautiful.

The efflorescence is autumn. Although there are only 6
species in this genus, every one of them is extremely
dignified. The cultivation is similar to that of Lithops,
however, it seems Dinteranthus likes a little more
dryness and high temperature. Propagation is done by
seeds which are minutest through all the Mesembs and
close attention should be required. The best season to
sow is mid summer (August).
 Gibbaeum
The habitat is Karoo desert. It has
extremely short stem and grow densely around
the stem. A pair of leaves merged into one at the
base. Some have wide opening and some have
almost no opening as the fissure on the top. The
body shows odd appearance because the tow
leaves are asymmetrical more or less. The color
of the flower is white, rosy or crimson. Each
flower has short calyx. Although the growing
season varies, most of them grow from autumn
to spring and rest in summer. Cultivation is
similar to the other Mesembs. However it is a
robust genus, no need to worry. Although
propagation from seeds is easy, a divided offset
grows the root easily. This genus displays its
real beauty as a colony which consists of many
heads. The particular forms and charming
flowers are prestigious through all Mesembs.
 Argyroderma
The habitat is Karoo
desert, Little Namaqualand. It
has no stem and has highly
thickened leaves. Generally, it
is single head. However, when
it reaches maturity, it makes a
colony which consists of 2-10
heads. The body consists of a
pair of leaves which merge
into one at the base. There is
a wide or narrow fissure at the
top. The form is spherical, ovoid or oval. Some species have keels on the back. The color
of the body has shade of light and dark green tinged with gray contrast. According to the
season and species, light red or brown tinge are added to the color. The skin is extremely
smooth and immaculate like porcelain. A big flower with a lot of petals and a short stem
appears from the slit. The color of the flower is mostly yellow. However, there are elegant
species which have the flower of pink, carmine or rosy. Species which have unknown
colors and have not been imported to Japan is expected. Well-known species like
Argyroderma roseum have dignified form and wonderful feeling of massiveness. It is a
really unique species.
Cultivation is similar to that of other Mesembs. As it is a robust genus, no special
attention is needed. The growing season is autumn to spring and the dormant season is
summer. Almost complete cutoff of water is safe during dormancy.
Although sometimes cracks appear on the surface, it is natural phenomenon and no
need to worry.
About 50 species appear in foreign
documents. However, there are a lot of very
similar species in the genus and considerable
confusion can be seen in the classification of
the scientific names and Japanese common
names. The color of the flower which comes
from an individual is not necessarily the
same. Far more strict classification and study
of this genus are left in the future.
 Pleiospilos
The habitat is Karoo desert. It has no stem
and highly thickened leaves. The body consists of
1-2 pairs of thick leaves. The color is grayish green
or dark green. There are transparent spots on the
surface. The top is flat and underside is
considerably convex. There exists round type and
elongated type. Round type grows into clusters of
2-3 heads and elongated type grows into clusters of
about 10 heads. The color of the flower is gold or
light orange. The size of flower is big. Each flower
has a short stem and 1-3 flowers come from a body.
Although most of species grow autumn to winter,
there are species which do not rest in summer
completely. The flowering seasons vary according
to the species. This genus is robust and easy to
cultivate. There are some 30 species in the genus.