STITCH

A stitch can be defined as, one unit of conformation resulting from one or more strands or
loops of thread intralooping, interlooping, or passing through material.

Methods of Stitch formation:

 Inter looping : Loop of one thread passes through the loop of another thread.

 Intra looping : Loop of one thread passes through the loop of same thread.

 Inter Lacing: One thread passes over another thread.

 Stitch classification is based on:

 Structure of the stitch

 Method of interlacing stitch properties.

 Types of stitches:-

There are 88 types of stitches. Among them 18 to 20 types of stitches are widely used
in garments industries.

Stitches are divided into 6 classes:

1. Stitch Class- 100 (Single thread chain stitch).

2. Stitch Class- 200 (Hand Stitch).

3. Stitch Class- 300 (Lock Stitch).

4. Stitch Class- 400 (Multi thread chain stitch).

5. Stitch Class- 500 (Over lock stitch).

6. Stitch Class- 600 (Covering chain stitch).

 Stitch class-100 (Single Needle Chain Stitch)

Feature:
Single Needle Chain Stitch is chain stitch type, is formed with one or more needle threads
introduced from one side of the material only.

 chain stitch is elastic and thicker than lockstitch and can easily be
ravelled;

 particular care is required to prevent runback from the last stitch.

 Used for temporary stitching or for Blind stitching.

Uses :
 Used in lap and flap positioning, temporary joining, positioning, basting, hemming,
blind stitching, button holing, button attaching purposes.

Advantages & Disadvantages :

 Stitch can be easily unpicked from the last to the first.
 It can be easily removed

 Security of stitch is very poor. If one end of the thread is pulled, then the whole
sewing will be opened.
 Stitch class-200 (Hand Stitch)

Feature:

Stitch class 200 is a hand stitch type, is formed by single thread passed from one side of the
material to the other in successive needle penetrations.

 a slow process and need huge manpower to finish bulk order.

Uses :
 Used in lapel of jacket, coat and expensive clothes.
 Stitch type-209 is used for edge of the jacket.

Advantages & Disadvantages :

 Time consuming operation.
 Higher cost.
 Speed of sewing is very slow.
 Rare in use.
 Stitch class-300 (Lock Stitch)

Feature:
• Two or more sets of threads are used in this class of stitch.

• One set of thread is called needle thread and another set is called bobbin thread.

• Fine yarn is preferable for this type of stitching.

• Lock stitch machine requires 2 threads to form a stitch, a needle thread that feeds
from the top and a lower thread that feeds from a bobbin.

• Lock stitch machines are versatile and can be used for a variety of operations.

• It is also the only stitch formation that can be back stitched.

Uses :
» Extensively used in sewing and fabric attachment as pocket, collar, cuff, facing etc.

» Also used in top stitching, button holing, button attaching, blind stitching etc.

Advantages & Disadvantages:

• Supplied from a bobbin on the other side.

• low bulk and thin, good strength and abrasion resistance

• Poor elasticity, non ravel

• limited sewing length, need to replace bobbin thread.

• for seams requiring stretch.

 Stitch class-400 (Multi Thread Chain Stitch)
Feature:
 The 400 class is the second most frequently used stitch type.
 This multi thread chain stitch requires one or more needle threads that form loops as
they pass through the fabric and interloop with the looper thread on the underside,
all of which feed continuously from the cones.
 The 400 class requires an upper and a lower thread and use a looper to carry the
lower thread and form a thread loop on the underside of the fabric.
 The loop of one set thread is passed through the fabric and bound with another set
of thread by interlacing and interlooping.
 Stitch type 401 is the most common among 400 class.
 Sometimes this type of chain stitch is called double locked stitch, because one
needle thread is bound with two loops of the lower thread.

Uses :
 Stitch type-401 is used for long sewing in the jeans and trousers. Also this type of
stitch is used with over edge stitch.
 Stitch type-406,407 is used for joining lace, braid, elastic with the garments.

Advantages & Disadvantages:

 non ravel, strong, good elasticity, less likely to cause seam pucker due to structural
jamming

 good seam stretch

 does not need to wind bobbin

 lower resistance to runback and have increased bulk under the seam
 Stitch class-500 (Over Edge Stitch)
Feature:
» This type of stitch is made by one or more sets of thread and is bound by minimum
loops of one set of thread by rotating the fabric edge. As a result thread cannot be
drawing off from the fabric edge.

» Before sewing the fabric edge is cleaned by the knife of the machine which is
placed at front of the needle.

» All have high elasticity, they do not unravel easily, and a trimming knife on the
machine ensures a neat edge prior to sewing.

» Width of stitch may vary from 3 to 5 mm.

Use:
» Stitch type-504 is used for decoration of fabric end.

» It is also used in combination with lock stitch and chain stitch.

» For light fabric stitch type-512 is used.

» For coarse fabric such as denim, jeans, cord stitch type-514 is used.

Advantages & Disadvantages:

 Excellent stretchable good recovery

 Seam or edge neatening

 suitable for many types of fabric

 subject to fraying or slippage.

 Stitch Class-600 (Covering Chain Stitch)
Feature:
 Stitches under 600 class are formed by two or more needle loops passing through the
material, Interlooping on the underside and interlocking on the upper side.
 Machines producing the 600 class are extremely fast and efficient, operating at 9000
rpms.
 A spreader or cover thread finger carries the cover thread across the surface of the
fabric between the needles.
 These stitches, referred to as top and bottom cover stitches, are commonly used to
cover both sides of the seam with thread.
 This stitch class uses a lot of thread but provides excellent top and bottom cover and
flat seams.
 Stitch type-602 is the most common.

Use:
• Stitch type-602 is used for attaching tape, lace, braid, elastic to knit fabric.

• Stitch type-606 is used for making knitted undergarments. It is also used for
decorative purpose.

Advantages & Disadvantages:

• High elasticity, seam neatening and Flat seam stitch, Bulk, Fast machine speed
• No need of Bobbin
• Greater thread consumption
• Stitches under this group are very complex and may need up to 9 threads.