Textile Internship Report

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY,
NIFT- KANGRA
NIFT Campus, Chheb, Kangra Himachal Pradesh - 176001
Summer Textile Internship Report

At Nahar Industrial Enterprise Limted, (NIEL)
Ambala-Chandigarh Road, Near Lalru, District. Mohali (Punjab) - 141003
Submitted by:
▪ Gagandeep Singh Tiwana
▪ Rajat Gaur
▪ Vivek Aryan
Summer Internship at Nahar Industrial Enterprise Limited 2018
INDEX
SL NO. TOPIC PAGE NO.

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
PREFACE
OBJECTIVE
RESEARCH METHODOLOGY
INTRODUCTION TO NAHAR GROUP
NAHAR INDUSTRIAL ENTERPRISES LIMITED (NIEL)
CAPACITIES
LOCATION AND ADDRESS
PLANT LAYOUT – Processing Units I & II
ORGANIZATIONAL CHART
INTERNSHIP SCHEDULE
COTTON
SPINNING
LAP PREPARATION
COMBING
THE COMBING CYCLE
ROVING
WINDING
PACKING
WEAVING
WARP SIZING
GREIGE BLEACHING
BLEACHING
• SINGEING
• DESIZING
• PRE-TREATMENT
• MERCERIZATION
PEACHING
DYEING
2
FINISHING
FOLDING AND GROUPING
LAP DIP SECTION
QA AND TESTING DEPARTMENT
YARN DYEING
DENIM UNIT
NOTED OBSERVATIONS AND RECOMENDATIONS
LEARNING EXPERIENCE
REFERENCE
3
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
The internship aimed to put our theoretical knowledge of fabric science into practical
use and thus imparted us with the whole processing and work flow, right from ‘Fibre
to Fabric’.
The processes to be covered were Spun yarn processing, production, weaving,

dyeing, printing, finishing and packaging, along with testing and quality checks.
The two week textile internship at Nahar Industrial Enterprises Ltd, was successfully
planned in order to cover all various departments concerning the above mentioned
processes.
We covered two spinning units, and all its processes namely:
Blow room, Carding, Combing, Speed frame, Draw Frame, Ring frame, winding and
Packaging.
After the yarn stage, we moved upto Weaving processes wherein again we covered
Weaving in two sections, an Old plant and a new plant. The differences were majorly
in productivity and technological advancements. The stages namely: Direct warping,
sizing, sectional warping, drawing in and weft insertion were noted.
Next we observed the processing departments and noted processes like Bleaching,
mercerization, dyeing, printing and all the finishes.
There was also an in house testing lab at Nahar, accredited by the ISO, where we
saw various types of testing tools and equipments and the methods to test fabrics.
Also covered were the folding department, and the designing department, which
was a recent addition to the place.
Towards the end, there was brief visit to the yarn dyeing department and day
marked for the denim processing.
To conclude this summary, we gained experience and practical knowledge in all the
arenas of woven fabrics and it indeed was a great learning process that will help us
with not just our course but due lifetime.
1
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
Deeply gratified for the internship opportunity at NIEL- Nahar Industrial

Enterprises Ltd.
It indeed was a great chance of learning and development at a professional

front.
We want to take the medium of this report to express my best regards to Mr.Nitin
Khindria, Corporate Head of Nahar Group, for all the guidance and the arranged
facilities to make this summer internship as fruitful as possible.
We would also like to thank Mrs.Priyanka Grover, Executive HR , Nahar, Lalru,

for facilitating us with the best throughout the course of this internship not just as
a mentor but as a friend.
This opportunity as a stepping stone in our careers to the corporate world and
would like to thank all the workers, the heads, the HODs, Department managers
and shift officers, who took out their precious time in order to enlighten us and
share with us a part of their expertise.
Our utmost regards to our mentors Mr. Mohd. Umar, Mr. Aman Nagpal & Ms.
Shipra Sharma for helping us through from the initial days to the completion of
this project. It was their efforts that we could compile our perceived knowledge in
this report.
2
PREFACE
Textiles are one of the basic needs of humans. There may be ups and downs in the
economy, but textiles will remain in demand. In past few years, there has been a
slump in the textile industry causing many textile units to shut down. All these units,
which are mainly sick units closed down not because of sluggish market conditions,
but poor management. That is because if we see per capita consumption not only in
India, but also in the world, we see that it has increased substantially in the past few
years. It shows that there is continuously increasing trend in the textile industry. The
overall production of fiber, yarn, fabric, garments etc is continuously increasing.
Textile industry‘s growth is significant looking into the growth of population and
growth of economy. Indian economy, which is growing up @ 5% annually and India
is the second largest country by population in the world have a very good market for
textile products in long run.
In phased manner from 2002 As per the WTO, global markets are opening up. In the
globalize market scenario one can get good price and volume provided if they
delivery of quality products are well in time. Similarly Indian textile market is also
opened for other countries, because custom duty has been reduced for textile
products and therefore one must have good quality and lower prices .the removal of
quota after 2004 in US shall results in to plus point for Indian textile industry, the
textile industry had faced very tuff period up to June 02 and thereafter the margin
slightly improved in last one year. The future of textile industry in India will be
amazing if we continuously improve our quality and give proper attention towards
research and development and we can take lead of the world textile market. We
have to accept the fact that no organization is too large or too powerful to be
unsinkable . In a rapidly changing business environment companies which do not
change disappear without a trace. In the world of today change is a norm rather than
the exception and companies need more than just incremental change to survive
they need revolutionary changes to redefine their business and markets, past
success must be continuously questioned as the rules of the game in business
environment change.
3
OBJECTIVE OF INTERNSHIP
To understand the concept of spun yarn production, grey fabric production, dyeing
and its preparatory processes and finishing of the fabric, textile testing and quality
aspects both technique as well as for commercial purposes.
Observations to be made and information to be documented on the following:-
✓ Yarn manufacturing section

✓ Winding section
✓ Weaving section
✓ Dyeing section
✓ Finishing section
✓ Testing and Quality control sections
✓ Folding section
✓ Packaging section
4
RESEARCH METHODLOGY
Research in a common parlance refers to a search for knowledge. One can also
define research as a scientific and systematic search for pertinent information on a
specific topic. In fact, research is an art of scientific investigation.
PURPOSE OF RESEARCH
• To recognize the various type of information necessary for the study of yarn
and textile manufacturing
• Collection of data from various departments Of Nahar Industrial Enterprise

Limited, Lalru to analyze the working of the group.
• For understanding the various processes interviews are conducted.
The overall functioning of NIEL, Lalru is studied and analyzed.
Primary Data:
Depending upon the nature of the problem, primary data can be collected through
various methods. In this study, personal interviews with officials of different
departments of spinning, weaving, dyeing, printing, finishing, inspection departments
of NAHAR were conducted. In addition to this on-site observation was the major
source of information.
Secondary Data:
Data collected form:
• The company website

• Product profiles etc.
5
INTRODUCTION TO NAHAR GROUP
NAHAR GROUP, established in 1949

with Oswal Woolen Mills, Ludhiana,
surges a head in establish itself as a
repudiated industrial conglomerate with
a wide range from spinning, knitting,
fabrics, hosiery, garments, soaps,
vegetable oils and sugar.
.
Figure 1 Nahar premises. .
Oswal Woolen Mills Limited.
Nahar Spinning Mills Limited.
Nahar Export Limited.
Nahar Industrial Enterprises Limited
Nahar International Limited
Nahar Sugar and Allied Industries Limited
6
NAHAR INDUSTRIAL ENTERPRISES LIMITED (NIEL)
Nahar Industrial Enterprises Limited (NIEL) was incorporated on 27th September,

1983 as Oswal Fats & Oils Ltd. NIEL is a vertically-integrated textile manufacturer,
with operations ranging from spinning, weaving & processing and also having sugar
unit with 2500 TCD per day. NIEL is evolution of amalgamation of different group
companies with it. NIEL's strategic objective is to capitalize on the growth
opportunities that it believes are available in the domestic and global textile industry.
At the same time the company recognizes the competitive nature of the industry,
especially with pressure from Asia, and that to maintain growth it must continue to
improve production process and reduce costs.
The Journey
1983 Incorporated as Oswal Fats & Oils Limited.

1994 Name changed as Nahar Industrial Enterprises Limited.
Merged Nahar Fabrics Limited (manufacturer of greige
1997
fabric).
Merged Oswal Cotton Mills Limited (manufacturer of
2002
Processed fabrics and finished garments).
Merged Nahar International Limited (manufacturer of yarn)
2005 &Nahar sugar & Allied Industries Limited (manufacturer of
sugar & steel).
Figure 2 The journey from oswal to NIEL
7
CAPACITIES
NIEL is a vertically-integrated textile manufacturer, with operations ranging from

spinning, weaving and processing. The Company's manufacturing facilities are
spread at different locations with latest world class technology. The installed capacity
of the company as a whole is as under:-
Yarn
Name of the Unit Spindles
Arham Spinning Mills, Bhiwadi (Raj) 55632
Spinning Unit-I, Lalru (Pb) 48624
Spinning Unit-II, Lalru (Pb) 44400
Spinning Unit-III, Lalru (Pb) 28224
Spinning Unit-IV, Lalru(Pb) 62496
Sambhav Spinning Mills, Mundian (Pb) 31728
Total 271104
Yarn Dying Capacity

Name of the Unit Capacity Per Day
Arham Spinning Mills, Bhiwadi (Raj) 6500 Kgs
Nahar Fabrics – Processing Unit-II Lalru (Pb) 6500 Kgs
Total 13000 Kgs
Weaving & Processing Capacity

Name of the Unit Quantity per Annum
Nahar Fabrics – Weaving Unit, Lalru (Pb) 60 Million Meters (510
looms)
Nahar Fabrics – Processing I & II - Units, Lalru 58.4 Million Meters
(Pb)
Sugar Capacity
Name of the Unit Quantity per Annum
Nahar Sugar, Amloh (Pb) 2500 Tonnes
Power (Co-generation)
Location Capacity
Lalru (Pb) 29 MW
Amloh (Pb) 16 MW
Power (Captive)
Bhiwadi (Raj) 8 MW
8
LOCATION AND ADDRESS
Address:
Nahar Group of Companies. 21st Mile Stone, Ambala-Chandigarh Road,

Near Lalru, Distt. 21st Mile Stone, Ambala-Chandigarh Road,
Near Lalru, Distt.
Figure 3 Google map for location
9
NAHAR INDUSTRIAL ENTERPRISES LIMITED- PROCESSING UNIT-I
PLANT LAYOUT
Figure 4 Plant layout for Processing Unit- I
10
NAHAR INDUSTRIAL ENTERPRISES LIMITED- PROCESSING UNIT-

II
PLANT LAYOUT
Figure 5 Plant layout for Processing unit - II
11
1. Security office
2. Personal & Adm.
3. Manav vikas Kendra
4. Visitors waiting room
5. Accounts department
6. Workshop
7. Yarn dyeing plant
8. Boiler
9. Kitchen
10. Chemical lab
11. Physical lab
12. Finishing department
13. Folding and packing department
14. Grey checking
15. Store I
16. Bleaching department
17. Caustic recovery plant
18. Grey godown
19. Store II
20. Power plant
21. Pad dryer m/c
22. Pad steam m/c
23. Stenter m/c
24. Sanforisation m/c
25. Desize cum singe m/c
26. Scouring & bleaching continuous m/c
27. Mercerization m/c
28. Pitching m/c
12
ORGANIZATIONAL CHART
CEO
VP VP GM GM GM
(TECH) (SALES) ( FINANCE) (COMMERCIA (P&A)
L)
MANAGER SALES ACCOUNTS PERSONNEL

MANAGER DGM
DESIGN INDUSTRIAL COSTING SR ADMINISTRA
MANAGER RMG SR MANAGER TION
MANAGER
WAREHOUSE PURCHASE HUMAN
SR MANAGER MANAGER RESOURCE
MARKETING LEGAL WELFARE
DGM EXCISE
REG SALES MANAGER
EDP SR INDUSTRIAL
MANAGER RELATION
WEAVING
DGM
FINISHING
DGM
INSPECTION
MANAGER
ENGINEERING
DGM
13
INTERNSHIP SCHEDULE
Program SIP – Small Investment; Bigger Outcome
Figure 6 INTERNSHIP SCHEDULE
14
COTTON
Introduction
Cotton is defined as white fibrous substance covering seeds harvested from cotton
plant. Seed Cotton (called Kapas in India) is harvested from Cotton Plant. Lint
Cotton (ruia in Hindi) is obtained by removing the seeds in a ginning machine. Lint
Cotton is spun into Yarn, which is woven or knitted into a Fabric. Researchers have
found that cotton was grown more than 9000 years ago. However large scale
cultivation commenced during middle of 17th Century AD.
RAW MATERIAL
Figure 7 RAW COTTON
• Varieties: J-34, H-4, S-6, H-4 Super, MCU-5

• Domestic sources = Tamil Nadu, Maharashtra, Haryana, Punjab
• Bale size = 160-165kg / Bale
• Storage area= 50×100m.sq = I raw material Godown
• Total Godowns: 3
• Count:
o <40s count: Indian
o 40s – 50s count: blend of imported & Indian used
o >50s: imported cotton
15
SPINNING
Nahar Industries Enterprises Limited Unit-I has a huge cotton yarns spinning setup
of the capacity to produce 22.5 tonnes of yarn every day. The spinning unit – III has
an average production of 21 tonnes. Daily approximately 210 bales; each weighing
about 165+/- 5 kilograms; are taken as input to the unit. The flow of process and
machines observed is briefly explained in the flow chart.
COTTON GODOWN BALE PLUCKER VARIO CLEAN (mixing different

<BALE> (Cleaning & opening) varieties of fiber)
(
UNIMIX
VETAL SCAN
CARD <sliver> (Contamination like coloured
FLEXICLEAN (contamination
fibres are detected and
removed) remover)
LAP FORMER COMBER <sliver>

DIF <sliver>
<lap/sheet form>
RING FRAME <yarn> SPEED FRAME <roving> FR RSB (DIF) <sliver>
AUTO CONER <yarn on PACKAGING <box or

cone> pilot>
16
Blow Room
With all harvesting methods, however, the cotton seed, together with the fibers,
always gets into the ginning plant where it is broken up into trash and seed-coat
fragments. This means that ginned cotton is always contaminated with trash and
dust particles and that an intensive cleaning is only possible in the spinning mill.
Nep (Interlocked fibers) content increases drastically with mechanical harvesting,
ginning and subsequent cleaning process. The reduction of the trash content which
is necessary for improving cotton grade and appearance unfortunately results in a
higher nep content level.
Basic operations in the blow room:

1. Opening
2. Cleaning
3. Mixing or blending
4. Micro dust removal
5. Uniform feed to the carding machine
6. Recycling the waste
M/C – LMW BALEPLUCKER LA-23
Figure 8 M/c LMW- BALEPLUCKER LA-23
Technical Specification:
• Total no. of bale plucker machines: 4
• Working width = 2300mm
• Maximum production rate at 100% efficiency = 1500kg/hr
• Production rate = 800kg/hr
• Transverse speed = 3-12m/min
• Diverge speed and depth: predicted (Usually 2mm)
• RPM: 10-12
17
• Plucking roller dia. = 288mm

• Contact roller dia.= 125mm
• Power required = 12.4KW
• No. of bales required:
Standard production per shift = 800*8 = 6400kg

Thus no. of bales required = total martial wt./standard wt. of a bale =
6400/165 = 39 bales
18
Bale plucking
The machine, positioned at the first of the

blow room line, is an automatic bale plucker
suitable for plucking cotton of various grades.
ARGUS WS-15 is used to mechanically strip
fibers from pressed bales and through the
suction action pass the fibers to the blow
room through pipes with the action of air. This
system saves labor cost and also provides a
good first blending operation of the fibers. It is
mainly composed of a metal bridge moving on
rails which gives vertical movement to the
plucker head. The different functions of Figure 9 Bale plucker
taking, discharging and cleaning are controlled
by a computerized digital panel with touch-screen.
ARGUS WS-15 System: -The ARGUS system uses Infrared Spark Detectors
located inside the Bale Opener to detect a single spark, activate an automatic fire
extinguisher, sound alarms, and shut down the machine - all in less than 50
milliseconds.
Some special features of the system are listed below:-
• The sensor can detect a single spark as small as 2mm and immediately activates
the extinguisher system.
• The system has a standard automatic water extinguisher and special fire control
spray nozzles designed specifically for Bale Openers.
• The ARGUS Control Panel and Alarm System is mounted on the Bale Opener for
the fastest response.
• The Bale Opener is immediately shut down when a spark is detected.
• ARGUS systems can be refilled and recharged on site by mill staff, keeping
production downtime to a minimum.
19
Cleaning
General factors which affect the degree of opening, cleaning and fibre loss are,
1. Thickness of the feed web
2. Density of the feed web
3. Fibre coherence
4. Fibre alignment
5. Size of the flocks in the feed (flock size may be same but density is different)
6. The type of opening device
7. Speed of the opening device
8. Degree of penetration
9. Distance between feed and opening device
10. speeds of the opening devices
11. Throughput speed of material
Vario Clean:
Salient Features
• Higher Production up to 1600 kg /hr
• Twin Element beater for gentle cleaning and
effective opening
• Opening, cleaning and de-dusting combined
• Effective micro-dust and seeds removal
• Roller type waste collection system
Figure 10: M/C Vario clean -LMW

• Cleaning efficiency up to 40%
Unique User Friendly Controls

• Programmable grid adjustment and Beater Speed
• Individually adjustable traversing grid
• Dynamic setting changes for different assortments
• In-built intelligent display system with fault annunciation and mimic display
20
Flexi Clean:
Salient Features
o Production up to 600 kg / hr
o Infinitely variable production achieved by inverter drive
o Controlled fibre feed for optimum opening and maximum
cleaning efficiency
o Fine opening achieved by Saw tooth or Needle beaters
Effective Suction
o Efficient micro dust removal arrangement
o Controlled waste removal through adjustable grid bar
Figure 11 M/C FLEXI CLEAN

Flexibility
o Adaptable for different types of opening rollers
o Ensures gentle opening and maximum cleaning efficiency for wide range of fibres
Figure 12
The proverbs of the experts “The Card is the heart of the Spinning Mill” and “Well
Carded is half spun” demonstrate the immense significance of carding for final result
of the spinning operation. Carding is carried out by passing entangled fibers between
closely spaced surfaces of cylinder and flats covered with sharp metal teeth .The
surfaces are moved relative to each other and so the fibers are disentangled.
21
The tasks of the card:

• Opening to individual fibers, this enables elimination of impurities and
performance of other operations.
• Elimination of impurities occurs mainly in the region of the taker-in. The
degree of cleaning achieved by modern card is very high, in the range
of 90 -95%. Thus, the overall degree of cleaning achieved by the blow-
room and carding room together is as high as 95 -99%. Card sliver still
contains 0.05 – 0.03% of foreign matter.
• Elimination of Dust, which are bound to the fibers. Significant
fiber/metal and/or fiber/fiber friction is needed in order to loosen such
particles, this are available in carding operation.
• Disentangling of neps. The number of neps increases from machine to
machine in the blow-room, the card reduces the remaining number to a
small fraction, they are mostly opened out.
• Elimination of short fibers, this may occur at flats. Long fibers have
more contact with the clothing of the main cylinder than the short fibers.
Thus longer fibers are continuously caught and carried along the main
cylinder, where the short fibers stay caught in the flats clothing, press
into it and leave the machine in the flat stripping. The card eliminates
very small percentage of short fibers about 1%.
• Fiber blending, transverse blending occurs because the card is the only
machine to process individual fibers. In formation the web, and with
repeated rotation of the fibers on the main cylinder, intimate fiber with
fiber mixing is achieved.
• Fiber orientation: The card is often attributed the effect of paralyzing. A
parallel condition is achieved on main cylinder, but it disappears during
web formation between cylinder and doffer.
• Sliver formation, for further processing.
Technical specification:
• Working width = 1600mm
• Maximum production rate at 100% efficiency = 1500kg/hr
• Production rate = 800kg/hr
• Beater dia. = 800mm
• Beating mode = 180
• m/c speed = 700rpm
22
Carding
It is always considered by experts that the card is the heart of spinning unit.
The statement “well carded is half spun” demonstrates the significance of the
operation.
It is the process of disentangling & straightening the fibers into a parallel length wise
arrangement.
Figure 13 CARDNG MACHINE

Objectives:
• opening to individual fiber
• fiber alignment/ straightening
• disentanglement of neps
• elimination of short fibre
• elimination of foreign matter
• elimination of dust
• sliver formation
Part of machine
• chute feed system
• feed roll
• licker in roll
• cleaner bars
• cylinder
• flats
• doffer cylinder
• doffer comb
• crushing rollers
• coiler head
23
Process:
▪ Opening the tufts into individual fibres;

▪ Eliminating all the impurities contained in the fibre that were not eliminated in the
previous cleaning operations;
▪ Selecting the fibres on the basis of length, removing the shortest ones;
▪ Removal of neps;
▪ Parallelizing and stretching of the fibre;
▪ Transformation of the lap into a sliver, therefore into a regular mass of untwisted
fibre.
Operating principle and Elements of Card:
Figure 14 Working and Operation
1) Pipe ducting for supplying raw material,

2) Chute feed; evenly compress a bat of 500 – 900 Ktex.
3) Transport roller; forwards the material to feed arrangement,
4) Feed arrangement, consists of feed roller and feed plate,
5) Taker-in, opens the material to small flocks, when the material passes to main
cylinder, mote knifes; grid bars and carding segments eliminate a great part of
impurities.
6) Grid equipment,
24
7) Suction duct to carry away the waste

8) Main cylinder
9 and 12) Fixed carding segments designed to assist the carding operation.
10) Flats
The main carding operation occurs between flats and cylinder. Flats comprise 80 to
116 individual carding bars combined into a band moving on an endless path. 30 to
https://textilestudycenter.com/spinning-carding-machine-chute-feed-system/
46 of flats are always in action.
11) Cleaning unit, strips fibers, neps and foreign matters from flats,
13) Grid or cover plate
14) The doffer, combine the fibers into a web, because of its substantially lower
peripheral speed relative to the cylinder.
15) Stripping deice, Doffing master, draw the web from the doffer.
16) Calendar roller
Technical specifications:
• Production at 100% efficiency = 80kg/hr
• Delivery speed = 300m/min
• Feed roll dia. = 80mm
• Total flats = 94
• Licker in roll dia. Over clothing = 253 mm
• Cylinder dia. Over clothing = 1290mm
• Doffer dia. Over clothing = 680mm
• Cross roll dia. = 80mm
• Cylinder speed = 550rpm
• Doffer speed = 30 rpm
• Licker in speed = 1000rpm
• Flat speed = 322rpm
• Power required = 12.8KW per m/c
• Can specs:
Capacity = 11000m
Dia. = 40”
Height = 48”
Production calculations:
Required hank = delivery speed*0.625
Production per shift = actual hank/2.2/target count
Draft = cylinder surface speed : licker – in surface Speed
25
Breaker Draw In Frame
Although the fibers are separated up to individual state but they are in random
disorganized manner in the card sliver. Draw frame straightens and align the fibre
along the axis of the sliver in order to have strong and even spinning. Draw frame is
a very critical machine in the spinning process. Its influence on quality, especially on
evenness is very big. If draw frame is not set properly, it will also result in drop in
yarn strength and yarn elongation at break. Drawing is the final process of quality
improvement in the spinning mill Drafting is the process of elongating a strand of
fibers, with the intention of orienting the fibers in the direction of the strand and
reducing its linear density. In a roller drafting system, the strand is passed through a
series of sets of rollers, each successive set rotating at a surface velocity greater
than that of the previous set. During drafting, the fibers must be moved relative to
each other as uniformly as possible by overcoming the cohesive friction. Uniformity
implies in this context that all fibers are controllably rearranged with a shift relative to
each other equal to the degree of draft. In draw frame, the rollers are so rotated that
their peripheral speed in the through flow direction increases from roller pair to roller
pair, then the drawing part of the fibers, i.e. the draft, takes place. Draft is defined as
the ratio of the delivered length to the feed length or the ratio of the corresponding
peripheral speeds.
Drafting arrangement is the heart of the draw frame. The drafting arrangement
should be
• simple
• stable design with smooth running of rollers
• able to run at higher speeds and produce high quality product
• flexible i.e. suitable to process different materials , fibre lengths and sliver
hanks
• able to have good fibre control
• easy to adjust
Roller drafting causes irregularities in the drafted strand since there is incomplete
control of the motion of each individual fibre or fibre group. The uniformity of the
drafted strand is determined by
• draft ratio
• roller settings
• material characteristics
• pressure exerted by the top roller
• hardness of top roller
• fluting of the bottom rollers
• distribution of draft between the various drafting stages
• drafting is affected by the following raw material factors
• no of fibers in the cross section
• fibre fineness
26
• degree of parallelization of the fibers

• compactness of the fibre strand
• fibre cohesion which depends on
• surface structure
• crimp
• lubrication
• compression of the strand
• fibre length
• twist in the fibre
• distribution of fibre length
LAP PREPARATION
Sliver from card which is passed through the breaker drawframe is not suitable to
feed in the comber because the feed material or the comber is lap sheet so
preparation process known as lap preparation is done and machine used for the
preparation is known as lap forming machine.
Objective of lap preparation:
1. To make even feed for comber

2. To present sliver hooks as leading hooks to the comber
3. To make the fibre more parallel.
27
COMBING
The combing process is normally used to produce smoother, finer, stronger and
more uniform yarns. Therefore, combing is commonly confined to high grade, long
staple natural fibers. In recent years, combing has been utilized for upgrading the
quality of medium staple fibers. In addition, a yarn made of combed cotton needs
less twist than a carded yarn. However, these quality improvements are obtained at
the cost of additional expenditure on machines, floor-space and personnel, together
with a loss of raw material. Yarn production coast is increased by something under 1
US$/Kg of yarn (depending on the intensity of combing).
To improve the yarn quality, the comber must perform the following operations:
➢ Elimination of precisely pre-determined quantity of short fibers;
➢ Elimination of the remaining impurities;
➢ Elimination of a large proportion (not all) of the neps in the fiber material;
➢ Formation of a sliver having maximum possible evenness;
➢ Production of more straight and parallel fibers
Elimination of short fibers produces an improvement mainly in staple length, but also
affects the fineness of the raw material. The micron ire value of combed sliver is
slightly higher than that of feedstock (elimination of dead fibers).
Technical specifications:
• Feed weight
• Delivery hank
• Forward feed
• Basic draft = 14.6
• Break draft = 1.38
• Nips/min = 350
• Feed/min = 5.2
Figure 15 M/c Comber
28
Finisher Draw Frame
Sliver from comber before feeding to speed frame is passed through draw frame to
get maximum possible evenness which result in the even roving at roving frame.
Objectives:
• To make sliver with maximum possible evenness
• To make required hank for input in speed frame
Material flow on the Draw frame is given by following flowchart
When sliver is passed through the scanning rollers then it measures the thickness of
material. Scanning rollers are connected to the signal generator which converts
thickness variation in the electronic signals. These signals are compared by standard
value by the electronic memory and then it gives the signal to the servo drive to
maintain the proper draft with particular thickness.
STOP MOTIONS ON DRAWFRAME:
• Sliver Break stop motion

• Sliver lapping stop motion
• Can exhaust stop motion
29
Figure 16 Process of Drawing in
Technical specification:
• High delivery speed up to 500mts/min

• Production up to 360kg/hr
• 3 over 3 draft roller system
• 1 delivery per machine
• Calendar roll dia. = 60mm
• Feed weight = 20-50 ktex
• Sliver weight = 2.5 – 7 ktex
30
ROVING
Figure 17M/c Roving
SIMPLEX (ROVING) FRAME

Simplex is the intermediate machine between draw frame and the ring frame. This
machine is important to be to use by the spinner for the following two reasons.
1. Sliver is thick, untwisted strand that tends to be hairy and to create fly. Drafting
arrangements of ring frames are not capable of processing this strand in a single
drafting operation to create a yarn that meets all the normal demands on such yarns.
2. Draw frame cans represent the worst conceivable mode of transport and
presentation of feed material to the ring spinning frame.
OBJECTIVES OF ROVING FRAME
1. To draft the material to the required linear density.

2. To insert minimum required level of twist.
3. To produce a suitable package for the next process.
4. To reduce the thickness of the sliver.
31
In general two condensers are used in the drafting arrangement. The purpose of
these condensers is to bring the fibre strands together. It is difficult to control, Spread
fibre masses in the drafting zone and they cause unevenness. In addition, a widely
spread strands leaving the drafting arrangement leads to high fly levels and to high
hairiness in the roving. The size of condensers should be selected according to the
volume of the fibre sliver. Flyer inserts twist. Each flyer rotation creates one turn in
the roving. Twist per unit length of roving depends upon the delivery rate.
Turns per meter = (flyer rpm)/ (delivery speed (m/min))
Higher levels of roving twist, therefore, always represent production losses in Roving
frame and possible draft problems in the ring spinning machine. But very low twist
levels will cause false drafts and roving breaks in the roving frame. Centrifugal
tension is created at the bobbin surface as the layers are being wound and is
created by the rotation of the package. Each coil of roving can be considered as a
high-speed rotating loop of roving on which centrifugal tension increases with
increasing diameter of the package. Centrifugal tension in the roving is proportional
to the square of the winding surface velocity. Apart from inserting twist, the flyer has
to lead the very sensitive strand from the flyer top to the package without introducing
false drafts. Flyers have a very smooth guide tube set into one flyer leg and the other
flyer leg serves to balance the flyer. The strand is completely protected against air
flows and the roving is no longer pressed with considerable force against the metal
of the leg. Frictional resistance is considerably reduced, so that the strand can be
pulled through with much less force. False twisters are used on the flyers to add
false twist when the roving is being twisted between the front roller and the flyer.
Because of this additional twist, the roving is strongly twisted and this reduces the
breakage rate. Spinning triangle is also reduced which will reduce the fibre fly and
lap formation on the front bottom roller. Because of the false twister, the roving
becomes compact which helps to increase the length wound on the bobbin. This
compactness helps to increase the flyer speed also. Roving strength is a major
factor in determining winding limitations. It must be high enough for the fibers to hold
together in a cohesive strand and low enough for satisfactory drafting at the spinning
machine.
The factors affecting roving strength are as follows:

• the length, fineness, and parallelization of fibers
• the amount of twist and compactness of the roving
• the uniformity of twist and linear density
Technical data:
• Spindles per machine 48 - 160
• Flyer rotation speed, rpm up to 1 500
• Production rate, g/sp.h 250 - 2 000
• Sliver hank, ktex 3.8 - 5.5
• Roving hank, tex 170 - 1 500
32
• Draft 5 - 22
• Bobbin weight, kg up to 3
WINDING
Winding is the process of making yarn into a suitable package ready for sales. Apart
from the above, another primary aim is to eliminate the faults in yarn. Neps, thick
places, thin places, count variations are some of the notable defects in the spinning
yarn which has to be removed, while winding into suitable package known as cone.
1) Manual winding
In manual winding, the faults are removed using either mechanical slub catcher or
electronic yarn cleaner. This processes is more labor intensive and the faults can be
cleared only to a limited extend, say 8 breaks per lakh meter. The speed of winding
will be 450 meter per minute. Every worker is allotted for 40 winding heads .So the
production will be limited .Here when any faults is noted by EYC (Electronic Yarn
Cleaner, the yarn is cut down then the worker , using knottier joins the yarn by a
knot.
2) Autoconer
The main drawbacks of manual winding are labor intensive, less productive and less
effective. In order to overcome the limitations , the autoconer winding machine has
been introduced four decades ago , now the fifth generation machine is also been
launched .The improvements in autoconer machine has been a continues process .
In autoconer machine, the speed is 1300 meter per minute. The EYC used, will clear
the faults to the maximum possible extend. Usually 50 to 60 breaks per lakh meter
faults are cleared. The joining of the ends is made by a unique process known as
splicing ,were the ends are opened, mingled and retwisted by which the appearance
will be uniform and knot is eliminated here. The labor requirement is very much
reduced and the splicing is carried out by the machine itself. The autoconer
machines are now been widely used to overcome the labor shortage, improve
machine productivity and the quality of yarn dispatched for sales.
33
Figure 18 Flow diagram of process in autoconer
Capacity
Name of the Unit Spindles
Spinning Unit-I, Lalru (Pb) 48624
Spinning Unit-II, Lalru (Pb) 44400
Spinning Unit-III, Lalru (Pb) 28224
Spinning Unit-IV, Lalru(Pb) 62496
Total 264048
Also, another phenomenon known as ‘ELITWIST’ was observed, which are made
not on normal, but compact ring frames. Its considered superior quality yarn and
came as revolution in the spinning industry. The yarn has high regularity and
extremely low hairiness. Basically in this process doubling takes place, from 2
rovings, a single yarn is made There were 10 compact ringframes and 18
normal ringframes in spinning-III.
34
PACKING
A process called ‘Conditioning’ is done before packing where the yarn is subjected to
high temperature and pressure for 1 hour, to impart permanency to twist and
strength.
In Spinning –III , a new mechanism called TFO – Two for one twisting yarn was
shown to us. In this process, yarns from two different cones are twisted together
and made as a single yarn. It is mainly done to produce longer, continuous yarns
which facilitate better performance and higher productivity.
OPEN END YARNS: There were 3 machines with 360 drums each, for open
end yarn making. In this process as explained above, sliver is directly converted
to yarn
The difference between combed/carded yarns and open ended yarn is that of
count. Coarser yarn is produced in open end with lesser strength and lesser cost.
Its end uses are mainly upholstery, carpets etc.
NOIL- The waste from combing can be utilized in open end yarn making for
denims specially.
35
WEAVING
The process of producing a fabric by interlacing warp and weft threads is known as
weaving. Weaving is an art that has been practiced for thousands of years. The
earliest application of weaving dates back to the Egyptian civilization.
Warp Preparation
The parallel winding of warp ends from many winding packages (cone, cheese) on to
a common package (warp beam) is called warping.
Warping carries out following operations:
• Creation, out of a limited

number of warp threads, of a
warp composed of any
number of threads with the
desired length
• Arrangement of above-
mentioned threads according
to the desired sequence
• Manufacturing of a warp
beam with said
characteristics
Objects of Warping:
To arrange a convenient number of
warp yarns of related length so that
they can be collect on a single warp beam as a continuous sheet of yarns which can
be used for sizing or next process
The warp method in Nahar is of two types: Fig 10
DIRECT BEAMING INDIRECT/SECTIONAL BEAMING

Direct beaming is the winding of the total Section warping is a two-stage-machine
number of warp ends in full width in a method of preparing a warp on a beam,
single operation from a creeled bobbin, consisting of firstly winding a warp in
either onto a weaver’s beam or onto a sections on to a reel, and then beaming-
sectional beam. off the complete warp from the reel onto a
weave’s beam.
The system is for large scale mass The sectional-warping system is used for
production. shorter runs on high class goods.
Table 1
Importance of Warping:
• Construction of a beam of warp yarn.
• Construction of a parallel yarn sheet.
36
• Modifying the faults of yarn like thick or thin place.

• Winding the predetermined length of yarn.
• Combination of small packages.
• Accelerating the next process.
Important requirements of Warping:
• The tension of all wound ends must be uniform and possibly constant during
all the time of with drawl from the supply package.
• Warping should not impair the physical and mechanical properties of yarn.
• The tension should be moderate to allow the yarn complete retain its elastic
properties.
• Predetermined length should be observed.
• Production rate should be high as possible.
• The surface of warping package must be cylindrical.
There are 2 direct warping machine.( V-shaped creel is used).

• One with creel capacity of 784 cones.
• Two with creel capacity of 704 cones.
There are 3 sectional warping machines (It use dyed yarns also).
• H-shape creel is used with 8 columns and 40 rows.
I machine – 640 creel capacity.
II machine – 720 creel capacity.
III machine – 720 creel capacity.
There are 2 sampling machines:

I. Sampling machine make upto 70-80m beam.
II. Sampling machine make upto 300m beam.
MIXING DEPARTMENT
Recipe for sizing:
• Maize starch (soloact)

• Elvanol (T66)
• Sonicryl (binder)
• Sico 12 (softener)
• Fabproof (pesticide)
• Water
37
SIZING DEPARTMENT
The weaving process requires the warp yarn to be strong, smooth and elastic or
extensible to a certain degree. To achieve these properties on the warp yarns,a
protective coating of a polymeric
film forming agent ( size ) is
applied to the warp yarns prior to
weaving. This process is called
slashing or sizing.
After the fabric is woven, the size
materials will be removed from the
fabric during the finishing process
which is called Desizing.
Main Purposes of Warp Sizing

• to increase the strength of
the yarns
• to reduce the yarn hairiness
that would cause problems
in weaving process
• to increase the abrasion
resistance of the yarn Figure 19 Action of SIZE on fibers
against other yarns and
various weaving machine
elements
• to reduce fluff and fly during the weaving machine process for high speed
weaving machines
PROCESS
1. SAW BOX NO.1-
In this fabric passes from 2 dip and 2 nip at 90◦C temperature.
Dip consist of immersion roller.
Nip consist of squeeze roll and size roll.
2. SAW BOX NO.2-
In this also fabric passes through 2 dip and 2 nip at 90◦C temperature.
3. DRYER-
Warp beam roller is dried at 110◦C (or 115◦C depends on no. of ends).
7.5% moisture for cotton.
38
4. LEASING ZONE-
In this if 8 beams are used for winding 3 sized beams then 7 rods are used to
separate them.
5. BEAMING-
It also have comber which continuously moves up and down to reduce
heating effect due to friction.
There are total three machines for sizing:

2 machines for direct warping with 14 beam storage in dryer & 1 machine for beam
to beam sizing.
Sizing time depends on length of beam For 3000m it takes approx.1 hour.
Its maximum speed is 120meter/minute but company uses upto 7080meter/minute
speed.
39
WEAVING
Loom
Figure 20 BASIC STRUCTURE OF A LOOM
The machine used for weaving is known as weaving machine or loom.

There are 4 units
Unit 1 and unit 2 in old plant.
Unit 3 and unit 4 in new plant.
Unit 3 is with 130 looms and
Unit 4 is with 150 looms.
• Production rate
Unit 3- 42000 meter per day.
Unit 4- 56000 meter per day.
•1 worker and 1 weaver take care of 10 looms. •
Beam getter handle workers and weavers and each beam
getter take care of 20 looms.
Classification of Weaving Machines:

Weaving machines are classified according to their filling insertion mechanism. The
classification is as follows:
1. Shuttle
2. Shuttle-less
• Projectile
• Rapier
• Air-Jet
• Water-Jet
40
Figure 21 WEAVING MACHINE
Shuttle Weaving
In shuttle weaving, a shuttle that traverses back and forth across the loom width,
inserts the filling. Shuttles can be made of wood or plastic. Filling yarn is wound on
the quill and the quill is placed in the shuttle. As the shuttle move across the loom,
the filling yarn is unwound from the pin and lay in the shed.
Projectile Weaving
Projectile weaving machines use a projectile equipped with a gripper to insert the
filling yarn across the machine. The gripper projectile draws the filling yarn into the
shed. The Projectile glides through the shed in a rake- shaped guide. Braked in the
receiving unit, the Projectile is then conveyed to its original position by a transport
device installed under the shed.
Rapier Weaving
In Rapier weaving, a flexible or rigid solid element, called rapier, is used to insert the
filling yarn across the shed. The rapier head picks up the filling yarn and carries it
through the shed. After reaching the destination, the rapier head returns empty to
pick up the next filling yarn, which completes the cycle. A rapier performs a
reciprocating motion.
Rapier weaving machines can be of two types:
1. Single Rapier Machines:

A single, rigid rapier is used in these machines. The rigid rapier is a metal or
composite bar usually with a circular cross section. The rapier enters the shed from
one side, picks up the tip of the filling yarn on the other side and passes it across the
loom width while retracting. Therefore, a single rapier carries the yarn in one way
only and half of the rapier
movement is wasted. Also there is
no yarn transfer since there is only
one rapier. The single rapier’s
length is equal to the width of the
loom.
2. Double Rapier Machines:
Two rapiers are used in these

machines: one rapier, called the
giver, takes the filling yarn from the Figure 22
yarn accumulator on one side of the

loom, brings it to the center of the machine and transfers it to the second rapier
which is called the taker. The taker retards and brings the filling yarn to the other
side. Similar to the single rapier machines, only half of the rapier movements are
used for filling insertion. Weft insertion by rapier
Air-Jet Weaving
The air jet weaving machines are the weaving machines with the highest weft
insertion performance and are considered as the most productive in the
manufacturing of light to medium weight fabrics, preferably made of cotton and
41
certain man-made fibers (sheets, shirting fabrics, linings, taffetas and satins in staple
yarns of man-made fibers); it has anyway to be pointed out that technically positive
results are obtained at present also with heavy weight fabrics (denims) and that
some manufacturers produce also machine models for terry production.
These machines are the ideal solution for those who want to produce bulk quantities
of customized fabric styles. The weaving widths range generally from 190 to 400 cm.
As regards the multicolor weft carrier, up to 8 different wefts can be fed. It has
however to be considered that the air jet weaving machines require a high energy
consumption to prepare the compressed air and that this consumption rises definitely
with increasing loom width
and running speed. The
reduction in the energy
consumption is in fact one of
the main concerns of the
manufacturers, and builds for
the user an important
selection criterion.
Air-Jet Weaving
Toyota Industries develops
and manufactures air jet
looms, which insert the weft
yarn using air. We provide
our customers all over the
world with state-of-the-art
weaving machinery that
excels in speedy and reliable
performance. Figure 23 WORKING ON LOOM
JAT810 (Air Jet Loom)

Based on the underlying design concept of the JAT Series of “Weaving the highest
quality fabric at the lowest possible cost,” the JAT810 boasts a diverse range of
original Toyota features, including an Air-Saving System that reduces energy
consumption and the new “E-shed” electronic shedding motion. In addition, a newly
developed function panel and a factory management system dramatically improve
operability.
Water-Jet Weaving
A water-jet weaving machine inserts the filling yarn by highly pressurized water. The
relative velocity between the filling yarn and the water jet provides the attractive
force. If there is no velocity difference, then there would be no tension on the yarn
results in curling and snarling of the yarn. Water-jet weaving machine can only be
used for hydrophobic fibers.
42
Loom shed
Divided into 4 units having total 515 looms
Unit 1 & 2
Total no. of loom = 235
Picanol delta (airjet with width 190cm)
Picanol summum (airjet width 230cm)
Vamatex(rapier width 190cm)- 46 looms
Toyota Jet 810 – 6 looms

Unit 3
Total no of looms = 130
Picanol omniplus (190cm) – 57 looms

Picanol Omniplus 800 (190 cm) – 46 looms
Picanol gammax – 24 looms
Picanol Optimax – 3 looms
Unit 4
Total no of looms = 150 looms.
Toyota jet 710 ,AIRJET, dobby – 56 looms and 86 looms of cam
Picanol omniplus – 3 looms.
For handling 60 looms- 7 weavers, 3 beam getter, 2 weft feeder, 1 LC(loom

cleaner), 1 FC(floor cleaner) works. And also there are electronic department
and maintenance department.
WEAVING CALCULATIONS
• Total no. of end = EPI × reed space (inches)

• Loom efficiency =
actual production
calculated production × 100
43
Actual production ×100

actual running time + stopped time
Production calculation
• Production per shift = RPM × 60 × 8 × efficiency

(In meters ) PPI × 39.37
• Production per shift = RPM × 60 × 8 × efficiency

(In yards ) PPI× 36
44
PROCESS FLOW CHART
45
GREIGE BLEACHING
This section deals with the formation of batches either for further processing or for
procuring samples for testing. In case of spandex the sample length 0.7metres and
for cotton it is kept 0.5 meters. This is done as the number of tests conducted for
spandex is more than that of cotton. For further processing the fabric is prepared in
roll form which is sent to next bleaching unit.
The rolls are prepared on the ALMAC greige bleaching machine which works with
the help of three motors. The first motor is on the initial stand roll, the second on the
upper stand roll and the third on the batching roll. Air pressure is used to move the
rollers up and down and a fabric length counter is attached with the machine.
For maintaining the continuous flow of material the ends of different rolls are stitched
together using 5thread over lock machine. Flap which is a strip of the same fabric is
attached at both the end to ensure that no tearing takes place.
Figure 24 M/C GREIGE BLEACHING
46
SINGEING
It is a process in which protruding fibers on the surface of fabric are burnt. The fabric
is passed over a flame at high speed to obtain a smooth surface; the gas used is
L.P.G. for burning purpose.
Different Setting of a Singeing Machine:-
1. Speed of the Cloth: This may be varied with the help of differential gears
provided. This is changed according to the GSM of the fabric.
2. Height of the flame: This can be varied with the help of the valve provided at the
side of the machine i.e. by changing the pressure of gas of the burner. This can be
change when more heat is to be provided to the fabric i.e. when fabric is heavier in
weight and its speed cannot reduce below a level.
3. Length of the flame: This can be varied with the help of the valve provided at the
side of the machine. This can be change when the width of the cloth is more or less
than the width of the flame.
VIBRA +1 < brushing to raise the fibers from the fabric surface>
SINGER < LPG flame>
VIBRA+2 < nylon flappers to remove the burned particles>
COLD ROLLERS< for cooling down the fabric>
Universal • The basic singer

Singer is equipped with
2 Double-Jet
burners, to singe
both sides in
one pass or one
side twice,
offering three,
two or one
singeing
position(s).
• Heating
medium, all
types of gas or
on request with
47
gasified petrol or kerosene.

• Proportional gas: air mixing device
• Flame intensity adjustable in a wide range
• Flame width adjustable.
• Distance flame – fabric
adjustable
• Singeing parameters to be set manually or program controlled
• Safety installations in accordance with local regulations
• 4-burner singers are available for high-speed processes
Singeing Positions
Onto free guided fabric

Flame meets right-angle
onto dense woven fabric
freely guided between 2
rollers, recommended for
natural fibres and blends
weighing more than
125g/m²
Onto water cooled roller

Flame meets right-angle
onto the fabric bended over
a water cooled roller.
Recommended for fabrics
of temperature sensitive
fibres, those of open-
weave, blended ones
weighing less than 125g/m
Tangential singeing
Flame passes tangentially
over the fabric bended over
a water cooled roller
recommendable for fabrics
which cannot tolerate direct
exposure to flame and for
repair of filamentation
Table 3
48
IMPROVED PROPERTIES
• Improved luster.
• Minimized pilling tendency.
• Smoothens the fabric and improves the feel of the fabric.
49
DESIZING
It is the removal of size material from the grey fabric. Sizing is done to provide
strength to cotton warp to meet the requirement of weaving. But this sized layer is to
be removed before wet processing as it reduces the absorbing power of the fabric.
Two types of desizing takes place – one is oxidative and the other is enzymatic.
Here enzymatic steep method is used for desizing because it is effective for ecology
and quality of desizing.
RECIPE FOR ENZYME DESIZING:-
ENZYME(bactosol PHC) 5 g/l

WETTING AGENT: 5 g/l
CHELATING AGENT: 3 g/l
Table 3
The action of enzyme hydrolyses the starch into soluble degradation products. They
are removed completely before further processes on the INJECTA unit by the action
of steam & water jets then hot wash at 95OC is given to the fabric in the EXTRACTA
unit.
Then batching is done. Batch is rotated for 8-12 hrs at 10-15rpm to give time to
bacteria to react.
Its drawback against steamer is that bacteria reacts unevenly.
DESIZE WASHER
• Fabric is washed through hot water, air and perforated steam line.
• Washing is done at 80◦-90◦C.
50
PRETREATMENT RANGE
It is a combined process in which Scouring and Bleaching is done. In this process we

remove natural as well as added impurities of essentially hydrophobic character like
oils, fats, waxes etc. As completely as possible and leave the fabric in a highly
absorptive condition without undergoing significant chemical or physical change or
damage and also for removing the natural coloring matter of cotton to give the fabric
a white effect. This white effect is essential for the dyeing process especially for the
light or medium shades.
RECIPE:
H2O2 30 – 40 ml/kg
SEQUSTRANT 2 ml/kg
WETTING AGENT 3 ml/kg
STABILIZER 7 - 10 ml/kg
NaOH 27 – 30 ml/kg
Table 4
Function of chemicals:-
• H2O2- Universal Bleaching Agent:-This liberates nascent oxygen which is

responsible for the bleaching action.
• CBRD- Wetting Agent:-The surface tension of water prevents the wetting of
hydrophobic material and it is therefore necessary to reduce it to enable fabric
to be wetted easily. For removal of impurities during scouring it is necessary
to incorporate a wetting agent or surface active agent.
• NaOH- Conversion of glycerides of fatty acids into soap by the use of NaOH
is called “SAPONIFICATION”. Thus the oils and fats in the cotton textile are
saponified during the scouring process into water soluble products. One more
important function of NaOH in the semi-bleach or combined process is to
activate. H2O2 it liberates nascent oxygen because of which bleaching is
done in the CONTINUOUS PROCESS.
• INTOX- Sequristing Agent:-A sequristing agent can ‘Chelate’ (combine to form
complex with) the metallic ions in water and also reduce the hardness of
water. These agents can replace the use of Sodium Silicate and Sodium
Hexa-meta phosphate to some extent.
• Lanitol CESE- Stabilizer:-This is to control the rapid decomposition of the
peroxide when alkali is added in the solution i.e. to ensure a fairly uniform
availability of the per hydroxyl ion for the bleaching action stabilizer are used.
51
Process Flow in Pretreatment Range:-
Fabric From IMPECTA UNIT REACTA UNIT
EXTRACTA (Impregnation in Bleaching For Steaming (Dwell

WASHER and scouring chemicals) Time = 20 min.)
FORTRACTA UNIT:
(Pre hot washing)Impurities

sticking to the fabric surface
are removed.
VERTICAL DRYING NEUTRILIZATION EXTRECTA UNIT

RANGE
With Acetic acid Counter current flow
To dry the fabric washing
IMPECTA UNIT
The impregnation module contains only a small volume of liquor, impregnation fabric
under high turbulence & high temperature with minimum amount of liquor.
The chemicals are injected by force. Water is added continuously. Water supply is
controlled by level regulation.
The amount of chemicals can be varied between normal impregnation & high wet
pick up impregnation via the adjustable squeeze roller.
The displacer with the guide roller guides the fabric into the liquor. The level is
determined by the weight of the floater in the liquor by the level sensor.
Temperature:
Maximum treatment temperature = 60 C.
Moisture content:
At in feed end = 60-70%.
At deliver end = max 130%.
52
REACTA (STEAMER)
The chemicals applied to the fabric react in the steamer according to the specific
process .the steamer can provide tight strand fabric guidance or place the fabric on
the roller bed for stationary dwell time of up to 60 min .the automatic and regulating
station guarantees consistent and air free contestation .
Temperature:
Maximum treatment temperature = 98 C.
Heat up time = 30 min.
FORTRACTA:
Purpose:
• Washing
• Even batching guides fabric properly.
• Avoid any creasing in the fabric.
Temperature:
• Maximum treatment temperature = 100 C.
Moisture content:
• At in feed end = 60-70%.
• At deliver end = max 130%.
EXTRACTA WASHER:
There are four washing chambers based on counter current washing principle.
Neutralization:
When the mercerization is not required then neutralization is done in forth washer.
If mercerization is done then no there is no need of neutralization.
Figure 25 FortractaExtractawasherNeutralizationVertical Drying RangeExit J-scary
53
CYLINDRICAL DRYING MACHINE
The bleached fabric in wet condition is dried on to the cylindrical drying range. This is
a vertical drying range with 30 cylinders.
Functions: -
Function of this machine is to dry the fabric after various chemical Processes like
bleaching, dyeing etc. whose final product is wet fabric.
Features: -
The machine is based on the principle of high temp steam hating. The drying Range
consists of no. of mangle rollers which removes approximately 70% of water from the
fabric. It consists of a bow shaped roller to remove crease from the fabric.
There are 30 cylinders arranged vertically and heated by steam Fig 22vapourize water
from the fabric. Starting four rollers
are coated with a paint to give initially
normal heating so that Face to back
effect can be avoided. One motor
drives all the hot cylinders through
belt. Another separate motor is
provided for driving 3 cooling
cylinders. Chilled water is circulated
through the cooling cylinders. There
is a length measuring cylinder. There
are two exhaust fans for exhausting
the humid air at the upper side, driven
by two motors.
Figure 26 CYLINDRICAL DRYING MACHINE
Steam pressure : 2.5

– 5 kg/sq. cm
Temp of the machine : 120-150 C.
Speed of fabric : 60-65 mt/min (for suiting).
80 mt/min (for shirting).
54
MERCERISATION
Impregnation of wet or dry fabric in caustic soda solution of determined

concentration under tension is the process called mercerization.
Objectives of Mercerization
• Improve Luster
• Provide Dimensional Stability
• Increase Absorbency
• Increase Dye-ability
• Reduction in Convolutions
https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/cylinder-drying-range-machine-
8645043588.html
PROCESS FLOW IN MERCIRISERIZATION
CAUSTIC
PREWETTING
BLEACHED FABRIC APPLICATION
At 50 `C.
(65OC)
DWELLING ZONE CHAIN

(Time depend on speed of CHAMBER STENTER ZONE
fabric ) (For stretching)
WASHING & VERTICAL DRYING

STABILIZING ZONE NEUTRALIZATION RANGE: To dry the
with Acetic acid. fabric.
Various Units in Mercerization:
• Pre Wetting Section:- First the fabric is passes through the water and then
fabric passes through the pre wetting trough containing week lye (alkali of 10
Be) , this improves the initial absorbency of fabric .
55
• Impregnation Zone: -Fabric passes through strong alkali solution with

following specifications
• Dwelling Zone: - This is used to give required dwell time after impregnation
by passing through the cylinders
(Passage length = 32 m.) After the fabric is squeezed
• Stentring Zone (chain with pin):-Its object is to stretch the fabric to provide
required tension.
• Extracta Washers: -There are six washers. Initial four washers for the hot
washing of the fabric and fifth washer is for neutralization and sixth again for
washing.
PEACHING
Peaching is a process of developing very low pile on the surface of fabric. Peaching
of fabric is done by using emerising or brushing system depends on quality &
construction of fabric, effect required by customer.
DYEING
Dyeing is defined as the application of dye to fibers (according to their affinity) to
have desired colour. Every natural or synthetic fiber varies in affinity or capacity to
take the dyestuffs. In Nahar Fabrics, dyeing is done at fabric stage. Main types of
fabrics those are dyed are:
• 100% cotton fabric
• Polycotton
• Lycra (less quantity)
VARIOUS METHODS OF DYEING:-
• I. E – control.
• II. Cold Pad Dry (CPD)
• III. Pad Dry Pad Steam (PDPS)
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1. E-CONTROL REACTIVE DYEING PROCESS
Basic principle of E-control process:-
The E-Control process comprises just 3 steps:

➢ Application of dye,
➢ Drying, and
➢ Washing off.
The dyeing system must be carefully balanced to ensure complete fixation of the
dyes within the drying time.
However, complete fixation of reactive dyes is not possible in normal drying

conditions because of the wet bulb temperature, which is a characteristic of all
convection-based drying systems. It means that during drying, the temperature of the
moist goods is far lower than the surrounding temperature
In normal drying processes the temperature on the goods can drop to 50-55°C. The
exact temperature depends on the humidity of the air used to dry the goods. If
humidity is 25% and the air temperature is 120°C, the temperature on the surface of
the goods is around 68°C. If humidity is 30%, the temperature on the goods is
around 71°C.
The E-control process uses this physical fact to fix the reactive dye during drying.
Three key variables — time, temperature and humidity — are used to ensure
accurate control of the dyeing process in the Thermex hot flue.
Features of the E-control process
• E-control process does not use a separate fixation step. By contrast, all other
continuous dyeing processes require separate fixation of same sort.
• The E-control process requires 35% less time.
• The process also has a logistical benefit: since the goods are dry at the end of
the E-control dyeing process, they do not have to be washed off immediately
and can be stored without problem.
• E-control can be used to dye all shades that can be obtained with reactive
dyes. That includes brilliant turquoise, deep Bordeaux, deep navy and, of
course, black.
Energy and chemical requirements
• The E-control process needs far less energy than the e.g. PDPS process
because it cuts out the extra fixation step (steaming).
• For chemicals, unlike the PDPS process, the E-control process does not
require any salt.
• The amount of alkali is similar.
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Limitation
• More experience is needed to obtain reproducible dyeing on very lightweight
qualities (<60 g/m²) than on heavier fabrics.
• The E-control process is not entirely suitable for heavyweight pile and loop
pile goods such as terry toweling because there is a risk of frosting.
• The appearance of same goods dyed under E-control conditions differs from
their appearance in the PDPS process. This means the two processes are not
always interchangeable.
2. COLD PAD DRY

• Its speed is 60m/min.
• 2 pipes of chemical are there with 25% sodium silicate and 75% color is
used.
• Quantity is mixed and then padded on the fabric.
• Then it is put for 8 hour rotation and then washed.
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3. PAD DRY PAD STEAM
MACHINERY IN DYEING
• PAD-DRY
• PAD-STEAM
PROCESS FLOW ON PAD DRY:-
BATCH OF FABRIC
TENSIONING GUIDES
ENTRY J-SCRAY, DANCER

GUIDE, BRUSHING UNIT
COOLING CYLINDER
PADDING MANGLE
AIRING DEVICE
IR PREHEATER
3 HOT FLUE CHAMBERS
COOLING CYLINDER, EXIT J-

SCRAY, DANCER GUIDE,
BATCHING
59
VARIOUS UNITS IN PAD DRY
Figure 27 DIFFERENT UNITS IN PAD DRY
• Batch of fabric:- Batch of fabric
• Tensioning guides: - To give proper passage and tension to the fabric.
• Entry J-scary: - To facilitate continuous process while batch changing has to

be done.
• Brushing unit: - It consists of two brushing roller. This is provided to remove

fluffs from the peached fabric. Brushing efficiency can be changed according
to requirement by changing the position of side handle
• Exhaust fan: - From the other side of brushing roller a motor driven fan is
provided for exhausting the waste and collecting it in to separate bags.
• Cooling cylinders: - To maintain uniform temperature which facilitate in

uniform pickup of dye liquor.
• Pad mangle: - Fabric is passed through the Padding mangle where the color
padding takes place. It is jacketed by chilled water line to maintain its
temperature.
• Ring device: - There are 11 guide rollers to give time for airing.
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• IR-pre heater: - The cloth is passed through Infra red unit where 50-60%
fabric is dried with the help of infrared rays. Gas and air mixture is supplied to
burners from MAXON GAS STATION to produce IR rays. The temperature
inside is around 750c.
• Drying chambers:-Further the fabric is passed through 3 heating chambers.

These heating chambers are heated with the help of furnace oil and heat is
exhausted with the help of fans in it. The temperature of the chambers
depends on the type of fabrics. The temperature in these chambers is
maintained somewhere around 140-180 degrees (for thermosol dyeing) and
100-130 degrees (for other methods).
The time for drying /thermo soling depends upon the speed of the fabric which
in turn depends upon quality of fabric (GLM).
For light weight fabric high speed, lees time for drying and also lower IR
temperature, drying temperature and fan% while higher exhaust%.
PLEVA (Sensor):- Attached outside the chamber in each hot flue chamber
used to control humidity in the case of E-control process
The fabric is passed over cooling cylinder.
• Exit J-scary: - To facilitate the continuous process while batch changing has
to be done.
Length measuring roller and antistats are also provided. Then the fabric is rolled on
the rolling beam with the moisture content of 2-3%.
Further the fabric is sent for color fixation and developing.
61
PROCESS FLOW ON PAD STEAMER:-
BATCH OF FABRIC
TENSIONING GUIDES
ENTRY J-SCRAY, DANCER

GUIDE, LENGTH
MEASURING ROLLER
BICOFLEX PADDER
STEAMING UNIT
WATER LOCK UNIT
EXTRACTA WASHER
VERTICAL DRYING RANGE
COOLING CYLINDER, EXIT J-

SCRAY, DANCER GUIDE,
BATCHING
VARIOUS UNITS IN PAD STEAM
• Batch of fabric.
• Tensioning guides:-To give proper passage and the tension to the fabric.
• Entry J-scary: -To facilitate continuous process while batch changing has to
be done.
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• BICOFLEX Padder: -The fabric is passed through hydro and caustic for vat
development and for reactive dye, fabric passed through alkali solution and
60% chemical pickup takes place. Temperature of padding bath is 35-40
degree centigrade. Normally tried to be done at room temperature. Even
pressure throughout the width of the fabric.
• REACTA: -The fabric is then passed through steam chambers here the
chemical reaction takes a dwelling time of one minute and dyes enter the
fabric completely.
Various features of REACTA:-

• Horizontal or vertical fabric entry with heated lips and exhaust fan for excess steam.
• Section with 25 m fabric content.
• Large fabric diameters (193 mm) for creaseless fabric runs.
• Lifetime lubricated bearings.
• Top rollers individually driven by AC motors.
• Load cell to measure fabric tension for drive control.
• Roof heating.
• Water seal with small liquor content and uniform liquor distribution. In water
seal continuous chilled water is circulated through the jacket, which facilitates
in the removal of condensed steam.
• Temperature or volume controlled fresh water flow to the water seal.
• Steam conditioning unit.
• Probe to measure steam condition.
• Automatic cleaning system.
Figure 28 REACTA UNIT
REF: http://pros-machinery.com/en/ProductView_e.asp?ID=257&SortID=20
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• Washing unit:-
1. Washer-1&2 having water temp. 40 C used for cold washing.
2. Washer-3, 4&5 are used for vat development (H2O2) or simple hot
washing/soaping for reactive dyed/white fabric.
3. Washer- 6&7 are used for soaping.
4. Washer-8 for hot washing.
5. Washer-9 for neutralization and washing both in the same chambers.
6. As this machine is inclined in position from backward side so it uses less
water as washed fabric comes in contact with the fabric first then it goes to the
other section.ie water flows from washer-9 to washer-1.
• Vertical drying range: -The dyed fabric in wet condition is dried on to the
cylindrical drying range. This is a vertical drying range with 33cylinders.
• Cooling cylinders:-The fabric is passed over cooling cylinder.
• Exit J-scary: - To facilitate continuous process while batch changing has to

be done.
• Batching or Trolley: - Finally fabric is batched or collected in trolley.
64
FINISHING
It is a process used in the manufacturing of fabric in order to impart desired aesthetic

and functional properties to the fabric.
CHEMICAL FINISHES
Stenter machines (Monfort’s-Montex)
The purpose of the Stenter machine is to bringing the length and width to pre
determine dimensions and also for heat setting and it is used for applying finishing
chemicals and also shade variation is adjusted.
Components of Machine:
• Padders
• Weft Straightner (Mahlo)
• Burners
• Heat recovery
• Circulating fans
• Exhaust fans
• Winder
• Clips
• Pins
• Cooling drums
The fabric is collected from the batcher to the scary and then it is passed through the
padders where the finishes are applied. The fabric is entered into the Mahlo (weft
Straightner) the function of the Mahlo is to set the bow and also weave of the fabric
is gripped by the clips and pins are also provided but the pins has a disadvantage
that they pins make holes at the selvedge but the stretching of the pins are greater
than the clips. These clips and pins are joined to endless chain. There are 8 to 10
chambers provided on the machine each chamber contains a burner and filters are
provided to separate dust from air. The circulating fans blow air from the base to the
upper side and exhaust fans sucks all the hot air within the chambers. Attraction
rollers are provided to stretch the warp yarn.
After stentering we can increase the width of the fabric up to 1.5-2 inch. The speed
of the machine is about 7-150 m/min.3 meters fabric can run in each chamber.
Temperature is adjusted that a/c to the fabric as for,
• PC 210 c
• Cotton 110-130 c
After dyeing 160-170c
In Stenter clips or pins automatically grip the required amount of salvages in running
65
condition, which maintain the width along the whole length. The mahlo system is
used for controlling, skewing and bowing of the fabric along the whole length of
Stenter chamber. The system also shows the percentage of skewing and bowing of
cloth. It is seen that the fabric, which is produced by bleach, has 0 – 3 % skewing
and bowing property while the fabric produced by the J/box has irregular width.
In Mahlo system skewing and bowing is controlled manually that is by means of
applying pressure or force mechanically. Skew and bow rolls are arranged in a
pattern in order to control the skewing and bowing process.
Drying Chambers: -
10 drying chambers are provided here for drying. They have 5 burners and 20
motors for circulation fans. The length of fabric in chamber is about 55-60m.
Star Jet Nozzle Bodies:

These are the perforated holes in nozzle body, which showers hot air on the fabric
from both sides. Small holes are 10mm in diameter for showering the gas and
100mm holes are used for exhaust opening.
Air Circulation System In Dryer:

Fresh air is taken from the atmosphere at standard temperature and pressure to help
burning in burning chambers using methane gas. This hot gas is forced to pass
through the star jet bodies by circulating fans. The star jet nozzle bodies shower the
Fig 32
hot air on the fabric and used air is re-circulated and passed through the burner. If no
fresh air is taken, a time will come that the re-circulated gas will get saturated and
will be having no more tendencies to absorb moisture from the wet fabric.
Cooling Zone:
At the exit of drying chamber cooling jet nozzle bodies or cooling drums are used to
reduce the temperature of out coming fabric.
66
MECHANICAL FINISHES
SANFORIZING MACHINE
Sanforizing is a mechanical of treating the textile fabrics to prevent the normal

dimension alterations of warp weft, which occur in the finishing operation; especially
those carried on in laundering &allied operations.
The process involves the precise determination of changes that occur in dimension
when subjected to full laundry wash producing the finished effect to enhanced
commercial value.
The sanforizing, which used in PDT, is of EVASET mechanical range (Monforts)

which has the following specifications:-
➢ Maximum cloth width : 55 inches

➢ Compression : 16%
➢ Speed : 35-40 meters per minute
Mechanical Compressive Shrinkage: -

The fabric is compressed by the contraction of the conveyor surfaces on which the
fabric has been made to adhere. The conveyor takes the form of a rubber belt or
sleeve. The outer end expands as it passes over a roller and at this point the fabric is
applied. The surface contracts with it, expansion and contraction are controlled,
precise and predetermined length can be obtained, hence the process is positive.
Cause & Control of Shrinkage
• Loom: When the fabric is woven, vertically the yarn stretches along the warp
wise direction so the fabric is made under the constant tension condition.
• In Processing: Finishing process stretches yarn, during the commercial
bleaching, dyeing, mercerization and other finishing processes. Both the warp
and weft yarn are subjected to the stretching.
Complete shrinked yarn is fully relaxed, when fabrics are damped; all yarns
become wavy and shorter i.e. their shrinkage occurs. The compressive
shrinkage process is the most dependable and accurate method of shrinking
fabric.
Effect of Shrinkage: The fabric is improved, after shrinking there are more threads
per inch both in the warp and weft direction. As a result, the shrinked fabrics have
greater wearing qualities and improved hand.
Why Fabrics Shrinks?

• The yarn itself swells in water and because of restricting effects of twist tends
to contract.
• Process tension is shed when a fabric is washed in water. In the process of
manufacturing and finishing in continuous length fabrics are in elastically
stretched. They tend to become longer and narrow. When washed such
67
fabrics will expend in weft and contract in warp.
MACHINE DETAILS:
Name of machine : Monforts

Origin : Germany Manufacture: 1996
Model : Monfortex
Model no : 71T67135
Speed range : 35-40 m/min
Temp range : Thick fabric =500c
Thin fabric= 20-300c
No of motors : 05
Used utilities : water, air, gas, electricity, hydraulic oil
Max production capacity: 4000 m/day
Working procedure:
Fabric in trolley from Conditioning (slightly Fabric through clip

steamer steam used) expander
Calendar or dryer Fabric between squeezing

rubber belt cylinder
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FOLDING AND GROUPING

After finishing, the fabric comes to the folding department for the inspection and
packing.
This department is further divided into 6 sections, namely:
INSPECTION AND GRADING
RECORDING
GROUPING
SAMPLING
PACKING
FRC
NOTE: There is a hidden section called the TOUCHING SECTION.This is to

mend the white spots in fabric or the misprints in printed fabric by hand so that the
quality is upgraded and finally it is accepted.
A Detailed over view of the departments:

A. INSPECTION & Grading: Inspection refers to an investigation process of
accepting or rejecting the final finished fabric from the bulk. It is an
observation of finding out each & every visible fault in the fabric.
➢ 4 point system is used.
➢ 25 point in 100 meter is A grade category.
➢ 40 point in 100 meter is C grade i.e. worthy.
➢ More than 40 point in 100 meter is D grade i.e. not worthy.
➢ In this stitch waste is put in Z category.
➢ Minimum 10 meter is used here.
➢ Wastage cloth is re- inspected on a table also called chindi is
sent to FRC department.
➢ 20 cm length of fabric is cut from each roller for grouping.
There are four types of defects

• Continuous Defect:Any easily perceptible defect in a continuous nature
constitutes a continuous defect. It shall be assigned 4 points for each meter.
• Minor Defect:These defects up to the length of 1” – 9”. These defects are
given penalty points from 1 to 4.
• Major Defects:In a piece length up to 100 meters – 0 to 6
• 100 to 200 meters – 7 to 12
• Cuttable Defects: Up to ½ sq. inch – 4 points. More than ½ sq. inch – to be
cut.
On inspection machine various types of defects per counted and according to

these defects penalty are given. For this ASQC 4 point system is used
(American Society for Quality and Control)
69
Size of defect Penalty

3 inches on less 1 point
Over 3, but not over 6 2 point
Over 6,but not over 9 3 point
Over 9 inches 4 point
<1 inch(holes) 2point
Over I inch 4 point
Table 9
Warp Way Penalty Points:-
Missing yarn 1 or more yarn missed from the cloth. 1 to 4
Float No interlacement of warp and weft. 1 to 4
Stitches/Warp float 1 or more warp yarn not properly 1 to 4

interlaced with weft for some distance.
Double end 1 extra warp yarn woven along with 1 to 4/Reject more than
regular warp yarn. 1 yd.
Tight/Loose warp 1 or more warp yarn having more 1 to 4/Reject more than
tight/loose than normal yarn. 1 yd.
Wrong drawing Warp yarn wrongly drawn through heald 1 to 4/Reject more than
wire. 1 yd.
Wrong denting Warp yarn wrongly drawn in the reed. 1 to 4/Reject more than
1 yd.
(Line mark visible in the warp way)
Reed mark Reed is having more gap than the 1 to 4/Reject more than
normal. 1 yd.
(Warp way line mark visible)
Bad leno bending Leno yarn broken & loom not stopped Segregate separately
few cm
Temple mark Along with temple 1 or more pin mark 1 to 4/

visible.
Reject
Ball formation Due to improper sizing, warp fluff forms 1

as a ball and woven in the cloth.
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Multiple warp back More than three warp broken. 1 to 2
Table 10
Weft way penalty points:-
Crack More than 3 pick missing gap on weft way. 1 to 4/
Reject more than 1

yd.
Starting mark 1 or 2 pick missing or no gap on weft way only 4

line mark visible.
Thick place 1 or more pick closer (crammed) on weft way 1 to 4

(no gap)
Broken pick Pick less tha full width. 1 to 4
Double pick Full width 1 extra pick in the cloth. 4
Slough off/Snarling Bunch of weft yarn in 1 place. 1 to 2
Weft loops Weft yarn loosely placed and form loops on the 1
cloth surface.
Generated fluff/gout Fluff interwoven in the cloth. 1
Size particles Full width or spot type hard/color variation in De-sizable

the cloth.
Short/Drop pick RHS of the cloth missing for few cm. 1
Reverse pick RHS extra weft yarn for 2 cm length. 1 to 2
Table 11
General penalty points:-
Improper mending Removing extra yarn from the cloth and not mended 1 to 4
properly.
Wrong color Weaver put wrong color cone. Reject
Wrong design Wrong placement of color/wrong drawing order by the Reject

weaver.
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Acceptance calculation:
Points per 100 Sq. Yards=
Actual Points Counted 36

Actual Roll Length (Yards)× fabric width ×100
Table 12
Some definitions of yarn fault:
• Neps:Neps may be termed as small light balls of tangled fibers.

• Contamination: when yarn contains hair, foreign matter, other fiber speed
pot etc along with fiber, it is called yarn contamination.
• Dead cotton & hairiness: Hairiness arises from the fibers that protrude
outside the fabric surface, it causes pilling. Cotton width are dead cannot
absorb dye.
• White speaks: Undyed area due to unwanted fiber mixed with cotton.
Some definitions of weaving fault:
• Oil mark:when excess lubricant use for weaving m/c then oil mark arises on
fabric.
• Hole: faulty or damage yarn creates hole in fabric.
• Starting mark: 1 or 2 pick missing no gap on weft way only line mark
available.
• Barre mark: different lot mixing causes this problem.
• Snarling: bunch of weft yarn woven in one place.
Some definitions of dyeing fault:
• Crease mark: uneven heat control during process.

• Unevenness: If dyestuff are not fixed with fabric ultimately causes this
problem`.
• Patches: this problem causes due to different color on some portions of
fabric.
• Crumple mark: this problem is as like crease mark but looks meeting effect
over PC fabric.
• Dye stain : marks of color on fabric surface cause this problem
• Dirty mark: this mark can appear anywhere in fabric.
• Rub mark: caused by friction with metallic component of m/c.
• Water spots:one to accumulation of water.
• Chemical stain:stain caused by chemical during dyeing & finishing.
• Rust stain:if machine is affected by rust then rust stain appears on fabric.
• Bowing: bowing means ratio of bow depth at highest point of arc to fabric
width. It is expressed as percentage.
72
Grading is done as
Grade Condition
A 25 points in 100 m
AS 25 TO 50 points in 100 m
But piece length 10 – 20 m
C 25 to 50 points in 100 m
Continuous defect
D More than 50 points, Continuous defect
Table 13
GRADING
GRADE DESCRIPTION
A Fresh
AS Fresh short length(10 – 20 metres)
D Major damage
S Sample
Table 14
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B. RECORDING SECTION: In this process, sort no., lot no., roll no., wt. length
grade of the given roll and finally the group of the roll is recorded and saved in
computer. We can check the whole information.
C. GROUPING SECTION : After inspection grouping is done. In this sample of 15

cm length each role and then grouping is done according to shade. The
samples which are closer in shade are kept in one group.
➢ 20cm length cloth is checked for: a. shade variation b. CSV.

a. Spectra vision is used for checking shade variation.
Computerized color matching machine is used for
matching color digitally.
b. CSV(Central Selvedge Variation)- in this fabric is cut into
piece parallel to selvedge. Then different corner are
stitched together to check the checks.
➢ Checked rolls are placed in warp area folding(WAF).
The stripes (samples) from different rolls from folding department are matched
with the lab dyed sample (which has been approved by customer) and then
the corresponding rolls of fabric are put into different groups.
E.g. Samples match with lab dyed sample Group no. 1.

Yellowish tone Group no. 2. And so on.
More variation in tone of fabric more will be the no. of groups.
Ø There is PCDM (Process control development meeting) to

discuss daily routine and find solution to any problem.
D. SAMPLING: In sampling we cut a 5 m piece from the hosiery and sent to the
concerned party for checking. When it goes to the party, party looks its shade,
feel, finish and quality finally and gives its approval. For sampling we sent
approximately 2 m piece. Sampling is done mainly for marketing persons.
Marketing persons goes to party, show the samples and bring order.
E. PACKING:After inspection and grading, the roll piece goes for packing. This is
the last section of the department. Here packing is done with LLD (linear low
density polyethylene).Thickness of this material is 23 micron and wt. of roll is 15
kg. Same particulars like roll no., net wt., sort no., lot no., are written on slip and
pasted on fabric. The roll is finally laminated 4-5 times then sealed through heat
to prevent it from external environmental factors.
74
F. FRC SECTION
➢ Here 3 to 5m of fabric is sent to make swatches that is
sent to customer or stitched if required.
➢ Here all the waste fabric that is less in length is called chindi or
rags. And are sold out on the basis of its weight and some are
send again to convert it into cotton.
➢ 1m30cm cloth length can be used for pants. And 1 m60cm cloth
length can be used for shirt.
➢ Then according to quality they are packed and sold.
LAB DIP SECTION
Dyeing lab:
It is the lab where shade is matched with the swatch according to recipe of different
brand of dyes. The shade is normally the combination of three subtractive color of
required concentration which is assessed in spectrometer by CCMS or color
matching cabinet visually to check either the sample is match with swatch or not. If
matched then the recipe is used for bulk production with (+ or -) 5%, to match the
shade.
CCM LAB
Name of instrument : Spectrophotometer
Model : color eye 7000 A0
No. of instrument : 1
Objective:-
1. Matching &ensure the color or shade.
2. Whiteness assessment.
Padding Mangle
• Make : Mathis, Switzerland
• Max speed : 1m/sec
• Pressure : 3.2 bar (for vat)
: 4.8 bar (for p/c)
• Function : To pad the dye onto the fabric
Hot flue
• Make : Mathis, Switzerland
• Max speed : 2 m/sec
• Max temperature : 250°C
75
• Purpose : Drying, Curing, Thermosoling
Padding Mangle
• Make : Indian
• Speed : 3 m/min
• Pressure : 3.4 bar
• Purpose : For reactive batching
For applying finishing liquor
Microwave: Gives 8/16 hours batching effect in 8-15 minutes.
Auto Dispenser
• Make : Data color

• No. of Bottles : 101
• No. of Machine : 2
• No. of Display : 3 (two for color & one for water amount)
E-CONTROL
• Made :Mathis, Switzerland
• Object : reactive dye development by saturated steam.
• Dwell time : 11 sec.
• Air Temp. : 1200 C
Dyes brand taken in this way according to depth of shade:
Reactive dye procedure:
• From pastel to light shade:

➢ Levafix blue CA/red CA amber CA in case one light source
➢ Novacorn blue CR/red C2BL/Yellow CRG in case Two light source
• From light shade from 5g/l-10g/l

➢ Levafix blue CA/ red CA/amber CA in case one light source
➢ Novacorn blue CR/red C2BL/Yellow CRG in case Two light source
• Medium shade from 10g/l-25g/l:

➢ Novacorn blue CR/red SB/ Yellow S3R
➢ Nova.navy CR/red for blue,reds,yellow SB/ Yellow S3R medium
navy,grays
• Dark shade from 25g/l-100g/l

➢ Novacorn black WAE/red SB/ Yellow S3R for blacks,DK,greys
➢ Nova.navy CR/red SB/ Yellow S3R navy, DK,greys
➢ Remazolturquoise blue G/brilliant blue R.solturquoise ,royal
blues
76
Calculation of dyes in continuous process:

If the concentration is greater than 1 then stock solution% is not used & dyes are
measured in a digital weight balance
Dyes = amount of dyes × amount of water taken in recipe
Amount of total water in ml
If the concentration is less than 1 then stock solution% is used so that dyes are
taken accurately by pipette & get the desired shade
.
Dyes = amount of dyes × amount of water taken in recipe
Amount of total water in ml × stock solution %
Flow-Chart of laboratory work:
Research of Buyer Standard
Spectrophotometer to find the color composition
Costing
Recipe Preparation
Dyeing in Computerized Programmable M/C
Match the lab dip with the original STD byspectrophotometer
Check the washing, rubbing and light fastness
Submit the lab dip to buyer in four options to choose the best
77
QA AND TESTING DEPARTMENT:
Certifications namely in the name of NAHAR are:

• ISO-9001 For Quality Management System
• IS0-14001 – For Environmental Management System
• SA-8000 – For Social Accountability
• GOT/OCS CERTIFICATE –
-For Organic Fabrics (GOT/OCS)
- For Cotton Yarn
• FLO CERTIFICATION
- For Fair Trade Fabrics
-For Fair Trade Cotton Yarn
• OEKO TEX CERTIFICATION –
- For International Norms for Harmful Substances- Fabric
- For International Norms for Harmful Substances- Cotton Yarn (Certificate 1,

Certificate 2 )
• LAB ACCREDITION
-Lab Accreditation-GAP
-Lab Accreditation-Columbia
- Lab Accreditation-
Decathlon
• BCI (Better Cotton Initiative)
Mr. AMAN BAJAJ, the LAB Manager accompanied us on the visit to this department.
Key precautions were taken in this unit as we saw a DOUBLE DOOR MECHANISM,
to keep the humidity and temperature in the testing arena, under control.
Quality control is done at 3 steps:

i. Incoming control : The raw fabric, dyes, chemicals bought from outside are
tested to check if they fall under the regulated norms.
ii. Online control : Bleaching onwards the processing is checked like the PH,
Shrinkage, absorpency and whiteness. And also colorfastness for various
parameters.
iii. Final Control : After sanforization when the rolls are made they are tested for
the following:
78
EPI, PPI
Fabric weight
Bow/ skew
Tear strength
Tensile strength
Seam slippage
Colorfastness to – crocking, sunlight. Perspiration, water and laundering.
The machines seen in the department were:
• Martindale Abrasion Tester
• Crockmeter
• Perspirometer
• Tear Strenth Tester
• Tensile Strength Tester
• Ph Tester
• Cra – Crease Recovery Angle
• Growth Tester
DESIGN DEPARTMENT :
It’s the latest department added to Nahar’s executive departments with
5 members in the staff.
They do WGSN research and study customers choices to identify the taste and
develop the fabrics
Software TEXTRONIC is used which develops textiles electronically which are

then printed and collections are mounted and made for approval from buyers.
79
0
YARN DYEING
Dyeing done after the fiber has been spun into yarn, is described as yarn dyeing. There
are different methods of yarn dyeing. The main activity in yarn dyeing is to have the dye
stuff penetrate into the fibers in the core of the yarn; this is similar to the penetration of
the fibers in stock dyeing. Fabric made from the dyed yarns is called a dyed yarn fabric.
Yarn dyed fabrics are usually deeper and richer in color. Yarn dyed fabrics intended for
laundering must be quite colorfast or bleeding could occur. Yarn dye fabrics are used to
create checks, stripes and plaids with different color yarns in the weaving process. For
example, chambrays are usually woven fabrics in which one color is used in one
direction and another color in other
direction.
Yarn can be dyed in the form of

skeins or packages. Package – dyed
yarns are more suitable for woven
fabrics, whereas skin dyed yarns are
more suitable for knits and carpets
where a fuller bulk is more desirable.
However, package dyeing can be
performed on a much larger scale Figure 29 DYED YARNS ON CREELS
and with uniform results.

Consequently, it is more commonly
used method.
Types of dye used:

1. Reactive dyes
2. Vat dyes
Figure 30 PROCESS OF YARN DYEING

801
Dye Auxiliaries
• Wetting/ chelating agent

• Leveling agent
• Caustic
• Hydrogen peroxide
• Catalyst
• Fixer: NFDF
• Soaping agent
TYPES OF DYEING
Package Dyeing
In package dyeing the yarn is wound on a small perforated spring or tube of other types
of holders and the packages formed are then mounted onto a perforated rod or tube.
This is called the package. These packages are then carried by the carriers, spinners
which are arranged vertically on a hollow base, into enclosed machines where dyeing is
done under high pressure. The dye liquor is wound into the package yarn until the dye
is evenly exhausted. After, loading the carrier is
dropper into a seating in dyeing tank, through which the dye – liquor is circulated. The
dye – liquor is pumped through package in either direction, according to need.
Packages that are too loosely wound may collapse during the dyeing process. However,
packages that are too tightly wound may interface with the circulation of the dye –
liquor. In case, the packages must be wound as possible. Sudden pressure changes
should be avoided to prevent possible distortion of the packages. Therefore, newer
package dyeing machines have the capability of controlling both flow and differential
pressure. Many times the packages are covered by the protective bag which acts as a
filter to prevent deposits of insoluble dye and impurities on the yarn.
Beam dyeing
Bean dyeing is simply a larger version of Package dyeing.
812
An entire warp is wound into perforated cylinder,

which is then placed in the beam dyeing machine
where the flow of the dye bath alternated as in
package dyeing.
Main steps involved in yarn dyeing:

Customer gives sample with its all
specifications like count, color, etc. Figure 31
Then it is verified in the lab (like in a

particular design how many threads are need)
Records of number of chemicals and recipe kept. These can be re-used on the
approval from buyer.
If it is not correct they will re-produce or process. But if the quantity of shade
required is very less like 2 warp yarns in long intervals then shade variation in the
cone can be tolerated.
If approved, then bulk order is given.
R. F. Dryer (Radio Frequency Dryer)

Here water content from fibres, yarns and
fabrics are removed through radio
frequency. Apart from textile industry this
process is used in paper industry,
foundries, chemicals,
pharmaceuticals and ceramic industry.
Following are the observations noted at Processing Unit- II Of Nahar Industrial

Enterprise Limited.
• Total number of machines seen:

o RF Dryers: 2
823
o Hydro extractors: 3
o Dyeing machine: 32
1 tonne - 1
500kg - 2
300kg - 2
200kg - 1
150kg - 2
90kg - 3
50kg - 4
25kg - 4
12kg - 2
10kg - 4
3kg - 3
2kg - 2
1kg - 3
o Soft winding machines: 7
o Winding machines ( Convert plastic to paper cone) : 8
• For dye preparation an AUTO DISPENSER was used that could give upto 108
colours.
• FONG’S , A German company machine alone gives the output of 3 Tonne/ day.
• Package density: 0.3 g/ cm2
• Total production: 7 tonne/ day.
83
4
Figure 32: CONE AND WINDING CHEESE
B4
5
DENIM UNIT
Denim is a durable cotton twill textile in which the weft passes under two or more warp
threads. It is typically used to make jeans, overalls, and other clothing. Denim was
traditionally colored blue with indigo dye to make blue "jeans", although nowadays, it is
produced in many colors.
Flow Chart of Denim Production:
Spinning
↓
Ball Warping
↓
Rope Dyeing
↓
Long Chain Beaming
↓
Sizing
↓
Weaving
↓
Finishing
↓
Inspection
↓
Packing
↓
Dispatch
Oswal denim’s is a full-fledged unit at NIEL’s Lalru plant.

856
In the spinning section of yarn, the Denim Unit follows the same procedure as that
mentioned in spinning unit, the only difference being, more of course yarn or open
ended yarns are produced rather finer ones, hence no combing in done.
Following points elaborate only the machines used here in the denim unit and their
numbers, for they differ from spinning, in the process flow order:
1. BLOWROOM
There were 2 bale pluckers and 4 each of unimix, flexiclean and vetal scan.
The machine manufacturer from the spinning unit differs as here these are
procured by ‘Trutzchler’.
2. BREAKER DRAWFRAME
8 of such machines are present, 6- single delivery machines from
Trutzchler and 2-double delivery machines from Laxmi.
3. FINISHER DRAWFRAME
10 machines in all, 9 from Trutzchler and 1 from RS.
NOTE: The basic difference between a breaker drawframe and a

finisher drawframe is that of an ‘Autoleveller’ which is present in
finisher, to even out the slover formation and double clean the
impurities.
4. SPEED FRAME
6 machines of 120 spindles and 2 machines of 168 running at an rpm of 175.
5. RING FRAME
6. There were 14 machines with 1200 spindles and 2 machines with 1100 spindles
giving a total of 19000 spinning capacity. WINDING SECTION was the same with
autoconer machines.
7. In the PACKING SECTION we saw two types of packings, namely Pallet

packing and Carton Packing.
THE TOTAL OUTPUT OF THIS SECTION IS 21 TONNES A DAY.
7
86
OPEN ENDED YARN MAKING – for this process there are 432 machines giving a total
output of 7 tonnes a day.
Process flow department wise
1. Ball warping-
• The main object of ball warping is to prepare log for the rope dyeing
machine. Here creels are used for the creeling of yarns in the form of cheese.
• Total ends are divided into number of beams to calculate no. of ends in
each beam.
2. Rope dyeing
• There is 1 machine and 54 ropes can dye at once.
• Rope dyeing consists of twisting the yarns into a rope that is then quickly
dipped into dye baths. It is considered the best method for dyeing denim as
the short dyeing time does not allow the dye to fully penetrate the fibers, thus
creating ring-dyed yarn that fades better and faster than fully dyed yarn.
• There are 575 ends in one rope.
• During dyeing these ends get tangled or stick to each other.
3. Long chain beam(LCB)

• Sticking or entangled threads are separated i.e. denting is done manually to
wind it on beam or roller.
4. Sizing
• There are 2 machines.

• Starch is made. Chemical used are mutton tallow, pps, guar gum, maize
starch.
• 16 beams are made into 1 sized beam of around 5000 ends.
5. Weaving
• There are total 243 looms , 170 looms of airjet and others of picanol and
dobby.
• Gating and knotting both are done here.
6. Finishing
• There is 1 stenter machine, 1 mercerizing machine and 2 sanforizing
machine.
7. Inspection
8
87
• There are 4 machines for inspection and 3 machine of inspection with

cutting.
• So two times rolls are being checked.
8. Packing
• There are 2 machines.
There were 2 Lamination machines, that laminated the rolls before sending out.
A few observations :
Ø There are 300 staff members and 1500 labourers.
Ø Denim processing also uses the NOIL produced in spinning, thus utilising what
otherwise is a waste.
Ø Rolls were sent off as beams in most of the cases, otherwise were laminated
for international shipping.
9
88
A FEW OBSERVATIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS
The use of PPEs – Personal protection equipments was not seen in the
processing units, specially dyeing and printing.
Gloves should be made mandatory in this section.
The denim unit had critical odors which should be addressed and the
workers must be given PPEs to protect themselves.
Lack of condensers in the denim unit.
Crèches were seen for women workers in spinning unit and

processing unit. A necessity for women workers.
Canteens were present in every unit, but personally felt a need for a
cafeteria, for the staff members.
Earth pits were seen in every unit which is very mandatory.
Rats were seen in the FRC Department of folding and checking in p1.
Must be addressed as there might be a lot of fabric loss.
The issue of pigeons in the processing units must be addressed for their
accumulation gives a rise to the possibility of staining fabrics with beat
and also dirtying the area with feathers and faeces.
10
89
PERSONAL EXPERIENCE
My training at NAHAR INDUSTRIAL ENTERPRISES LTD, has been a fruitful and eye-
opening experience. The training has given me a much-awaited feel of working with a
recognized organization like NAHAR GROUP. The people in the company were very
humble and always provided a helping hand.
After doing the training at NIEL, I felt the importance of practical exposure in the
industry. It has put our theoretical knowledge to a practical use and has cleared our
concepts. It was indeed the result of this internship program that we came to know not
just about our course but various other things like how different management systems
integrate to work progressively in an organization. We inculcated sharp observation
skills along with team work and leadership qualities. To conclude, it was a great learning
opportunity.
-RAJAT GAUR
My internship at Nahar, Lalru, was a very informative one. I got to learn a lot of new
things about the basics of this industry, which was possible only because of such an
exposure.
The employees of the company were very cooperative and were trying their level best to
give us the best possible tour of the various units.
The managers in each unit were gladly clarifying our doubts, and as a result we were
able to understand each and every functioning of the units meticulously.
Our mentor had asked for daily reports, which has been very helpful to us as we could
keep a record of all our learnings.
We had also been interviewed by the HR head on the last day, to get inputs from our
point of view, and in this way we could also voice our opinions infront of the company
members.I had a very educative , informative and hands-on experience and I appreciate
Nahar Group's whole hearted effort in grooming us .
-VIVEK ARYAN
Our training in NAHAR INDUSTRIAL ENTERPRISES LTD. Has been a fruitful and eye-
opening experience. The training has given us a much-wanted feel of working with a big
and a premier organization like the NAHAR GROUP. The people in the company are
very good and always ready to provide a helping hand whenever required.
After the training, we learnt its practical applications and how all these could be put into
good use.
We got the chance to expose our self to the industrial culture and work environment.
-GAGANDEEP SINGH TIWANA
11
REFERENCES:
• https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/vario-clean-lb-9-2-6830061448.html
• Nahar textiles official website http://owmnahar.com/index.php
• Nahar control department of Nahar textiles
• Handbook on testing of Nahar textiles
• Information from powerpoint presentation and word documents from department

of Nahar textile
• Information collected from industry
• http://www.owmnahar.com/nahar_ie/capabilites.php
• www.textileworld.com
• Distortion correction : Mahlo GmbH + Co. KG
• www.mahlo.com
• http://www.ateindia.com/a-monforts#Montex6500
• www.ateindia.com
• www.monfongs.com
• MonfortsMonfortexSanforising Range
• www.spacentime.net
• MONFORTS | Control technology
• http://www.benningergroup.com/uploads/tx_userdownloads/BEN-
DIMENSA_English.pdf
• www.benningergroup.com
• osthoff-senge GmbH & Co. KG, Wuppertal
• www.osthoff-senge.com
• http://dyeingworld1.blogspot.com/2009/12/soft-package-winding.html
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NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY,

Summer Textile Internship Report

SL NO. TOPIC PAGE NO.

The processes to be covered were Spun yarn processing, production, weaving,

We covered two spinning units, and all its processes namely:

Deeply gratified for the internship opportunity at NIEL- Nahar Industrial

It indeed was a great chance of learning and development at a professional

We would also like to thank Mrs.Priyanka Grover, Executive HR , Nahar, Lalru,

✓ Yarn manufacturing section

• Collection of data from various departments Of Nahar Industrial Enterprise

• For understanding the various processes interviews are conducted.

The overall functioning of NIEL, Lalru is studied and analyzed.

Data collected form:

• The company website

INTRODUCTION TO NAHAR GROUP

NAHAR GROUP, established in 1949

Oswal Woolen Mills Limited.

Nahar Spinning Mills Limited.

Nahar Export Limited.

Nahar Industrial Enterprises Limited

Nahar International Limited

Nahar Sugar and Allied Industries Limited

NAHAR INDUSTRIAL ENTERPRISES LIMITED (NIEL)

Nahar Industrial Enterprises Limited (NIEL) was incorporated on 27th September,

1983 Incorporated as Oswal Fats & Oils Limited.

NIEL is a vertically-integrated textile manufacturer, with operations ranging from

Yarn Dying Capacity

Weaving & Processing Capacity

LOCATION AND ADDRESS

Nahar Group of Companies. 21st Mile Stone, Ambala-Chandigarh Road,

Figure 3 Google map for location

NAHAR INDUSTRIAL ENTERPRISES LIMITED- PROCESSING UNIT-I

Figure 4 Plant layout for Processing Unit- I

NAHAR INDUSTRIAL ENTERPRISES LIMITED- PROCESSING UNIT-

Figure 5 Plant layout for Processing unit - II

MANAGER SALES ACCOUNTS PERSONNEL

Program SIP – Small Investment; Bigger Outcome

Figure 6 INTERNSHIP SCHEDULE

Figure 7 RAW COTTON

• Varieties: J-34, H-4, S-6, H-4 Super, MCU-5

COTTON GODOWN BALE PLUCKER VARIO CLEAN (mixing different

LAP FORMER COMBER <sliver>

RING FRAME <yarn> SPEED FRAME <roving> FR RSB (DIF) <sliver>

AUTO CONER <yarn on PACKAGING <box or

Basic operations in the blow room:

M/C – LMW BALEPLUCKER LA-23

Figure 8 M/c LMW- BALEPLUCKER LA-23

• Plucking roller dia. = 288mm

Standard production per shift = 800*8 = 6400kg

The machine, positioned at the first of the

Figure 10: M/C Vario clean -LMW

Unique User Friendly Controls

Figure 11 M/C FLEXI CLEAN

The tasks of the card:

Figure 13 CARDNG MACHINE

▪ Opening the tufts into individual fibres;

Operating principle and Elements of Card:

Figure 14 Working and Operation

1) Pipe ducting for supplying raw material,

7) Suction duct to carry away the waste

Breaker Draw In Frame

• degree of parallelization of the fibers

1. To make even feed for comber

Figure 15 M/c Comber