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NORTHERN UNIVERSITY BANGLADESH

Knowledge for Innovation and Change

A Report on Industrial training is submitted to the department of Textile


Engineering in Partial fulfilment of the credit requirement for the B.Sc. in
Textile Engineering Degree by Northern University Bangladesh

Student Name: ID:


Sumaiya Islam 33150300679
Md. Mahmudul Hasan 33150300680

Supervisor
Shah Md. Maruf Hasan
Lecturer
Northern University Bangladesh
A REPORT ON INDUSTRIAL TRAINING
AT
MEGHNA KNIT COMPOSITE LTD.

TRAINING PROGRAM FOR THE DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING,


NORTHERN UNIVERSITY BANGLADESH
FROM 10.11.2018 TO 10.01.2019

SUBMITTED BY:

Student Name: ID:


Sumaiya Islam 33150300679
Md. Mahmudul Hasan 33150300680

ii
Letter of Transmittal

Date:
Shah Md. Maruf Hasan
Lecturer
Northern University Bangladesh

Subject: Submission of Industrial training report.

Dear Sir,
With due respect, we the students of Textile Engineering, Northern University
Bangladesh (NUB) have successfully completed our industrial training program at
Meghna Knit Composite Ltd. In this stage we are submitting our industrial training
report as part of our B.Sc. in Textile Engineering Degree requirement that bears three
(3) credit hours under your supervision. We are submitting this report for our
academic purpose only.

Please be kind enough to evaluate this dissertation with your valued suggestions.

Sincerely yours

Sumaiya Islam
ID: 33150300679

Md. Mahmudul Hasan


ID: 33150300680

iii
Letter of Approval

The industrial training report submitted by Sumaiya Islam, ID: 33150300679 & Md.
Mahmudul Hasan, ID: 33150300680, of Department of Textile Engineering was
carried out under my supervision and has been accepted as satisfactory for t he partial
fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Bachelor of Science in Textile
Engineering.

Date:......................... (Supervisor)
Shah Md. Maruf Hasan
Lecturer
Northern University Bangladesh

iv
Industrial Training Certificate

v
Acknowledgement

All pleasure goes to the Almighty Allah who has given me the ability & strength to
complete this paper.

Completion of anything requires supports from various sources and it also an


immense pleasure for me to thank a large number of individuals for their precious
help and encouragement, which contributed directly, and indirectly to prepare this
report.

First of all I want to convey our sincere gratitude to our honourable Dean Sir Prof.
Dr. Engr. Md Humaun Kabir and my supervisor Shah Md. Maruf Hasan,
Lecturer, Department of Textile Engineering, Northern University Bangladesh for his
wholehearted supervision. His suggestion and comments to make the report a good
one was really a great source of spirit for me.

I am also indebted to thank honourable GM Md. Juel Paloan DGM Md. Atikur
Rahman and AGM Md. Sajjad Hossain Meghna Knit Composite Ltd. To give me
the opportunity completing my craining At Meghna Knit Composite Ltd.

Finally, I met acknowledge with due respect the constant support and patients of my
parents.

vi
Meghna Knit Composite Ltd.
Gilarchala, Sreepur, Gazipur, Bangladesh

vii
Table of Contents
1.Executive Summery .......................................................................................... 1
2. Introduction ..................................................................................................... 7
2.1 Information about Factory:....................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
2.2 Positioning: .............................................................................................................. 7
2.3. General information about factory ......................................................................... 8
2.4. Layout...................................................................................................................... 9
2.5. Organogram .......................................................................................................... 10
2.6. Sister Concerns...................................................................................................... 11
2.7. Product mix ........................................................................................................... 12
2.8. Brief profile (numbers of worker, area, total machineries, etc)........................... 13
2.9. Plant Layout .......................................................................................................... 17
2.10. Major buyers with their Logo ............................................................................. 18
2.11. Mission and Vision of Meghna ............................................................................ 19
3. Description of the Attachment ............................................................................... 20
3.1 Knitting Section ...................................................................................................... 21
3.1.1 Layout.................................................................................................................. 22
3.1.2 Organogram ........................................................................................................ 23
3.1.3 Production Flow Chart of Knitting Section ......................................................... 24
3.1.4 Flow Chart for Circular Knitting .......................................................................... 24
3.1.5 Specification of the Machineries ........................................................................ 25
3.1.6 Description of knitting machine parts ................................................................ 27
3.1.7 Types of yarn use in MKCL .................................................................................. 30
3.1.8 Considerable points to produce knit Fabrics ...................................................... 30
3.1.9 Production Parameters in Knitting Section......................................................... 31
3.1.10 Sources of Yarns Used in Knitting Section ........................................................ 31
3.1.11 Types of Fabrics Produce in MKCL .................................................................... 31
3.1.12 Knitting fault, Causes & Their Remedies........................................................... 32
3.2 Dyeing & Finishing Section..................................................................................... 35
3.2.1 Layout.................................................................................................................. 35
3.2.2 Batching .............................................................................................................. 35
3.2.3 Dyeing ................................................................................................................. 36

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3.2.4 Dyeing Machine specification ............................................................................. 37
3.2.5 Flow Chart for Dyeing ......................................................................................... 38
3.2.6 Dyeing Parameter ............................................................................................... 38
3.2.7 Different types of chemicals used in MKCL with their function ......................... 39
3.2.8 Typical Process Flow Chart of Knit Dyeing .......................................................... 40
3.2.9. Finishing section................................................................................................. 44
3.2.10 Machine Specification of Finishing Section ...................................................... 44
3.2.11 Stenter machine ................................................................................................ 45
3.2.12 Compactor machine .......................................................................................... 47
3.2.13 Common dyeing faults with their remedies ..................................................... 48
3.3 Sample Section ....................................................................................................... 51
3.3.1 Layout.................................................................................................................. 52
3.3.2 Organogram ........................................................................................................ 53
3.3.3. Flow sequence of sample section ...................................................................... 53
3.3.4. Types of Sample produce................................................................................... 54
3.4. CAD Section ........................................................................................................... 57
3.4.1 Working sequence 0f CAD section ...................................................................... 58
3.4.2 Pattern making.................................................................................................... 58
3.5 Cutting Section ....................................................................................................... 59
3.5.1 Layout.................................................................................................................. 60
3.5.2 Process Sequence of Cutting Section .................................................................. 61
3.5.3 Fabric inspection ................................................................................................. 62
3.5.4 Fabric Relaxation ................................................................................................. 63
3.5.5 Fabric Spreading.................................................................................................. 63
3.5.6 Types of Fabric Spreading ................................................................................... 63
3.5.7. Ideal Lay height .................................................................................................. 65
3.5.8. Requirements of fabric spreading ..................................................................... 65
3.5.9. Spreading system in factory............................................................................... 65
3.5.10. Marker making ................................................................................................. 65
3.5.11. Objects of marker making................................................................................ 66
3.5.12. Types of marker making .................................................................................. 66
3.5.13. Factors considered during marker making ...................................................... 68
ix
3.5.14. The factors which influence the Marker Efficiency ......................................... 68
3.5.15. Marker collection from CAD section ................................................................ 69
3.5.16. Marker Setting ................................................................................................. 69
3.5.17. Fabric Cutting ................................................................................................... 70
3.5.18. Methods of Fabric Cutting ............................................................................... 70
3.5.19. Different Types of Cutting Machine................................................................. 71
3.5.20. Numbering ....................................................................................................... 73
3.5.21. Bundling ........................................................................................................... 74
3.5.22. Machine & Equipment used in cutting section................................................ 75
3.5.24. Limitation of Cutting Section ........................................................................... 75
3.6. Sewing Section ...................................................................................................... 76
3.6.1. Lay out of sewing floor....................................................................................... 77
3.6.2. Flow chart of sewing section ............................................................................. 78
3.6.3. Element of sewing.............................................................................................. 78
3.6.4. Sewing thread .................................................................................................... 78
3.6.5. Sewing needle .................................................................................................... 79
3.6.6 Sewing machine .................................................................................................. 80
3.6.8. Different Sewing Machine ................................................................................. 81
3.6.7. Thread, Needle, Looper used in different Machine .......................................... 87
3.6.9. Different types of sewing ................................................................................... 88
3.6.10. Layout of a T-shirt: ........................................................................................... 90
3.6.11. Layout of a polo shirt ....................................................................................... 90
3.6.12. Work Study....................................................................................................... 92
3.6.13. Objectives of Work Study ................................................................................ 92
3.6.14. Basic terminology of work study ..................................................................... 92
3.6.15. Step Involved ................................................................................................... 93
3.6.16. SMV related formula ........................................................................................ 93
3.6.17. Sewing Quality checking points ....................................................................... 94
3.6.18. Sewing Line quality Check List ......................................................................... 94
3.6.19. Sewing Table Quality Check List ...................................................................... 95
3.6.20. Sewing Defects ................................................................................................. 95

x
3.6.21. Sewing problems in factory ............................................................................. 95
3.7. Finishing Section ................................................................................................... 96
3.7.1. Finishing Lay Out ................................................................................................ 97
3.7.2. Garments Finishing ............................................................................................ 98
3.7.3. Process Flow Chart of Garment Finishing .......................................................... 98
3.7.4 Objects of Finishing ............................................................................................. 99
3.7.5. Work flow in the Finishing Room ....................................................................... 99
3.7.6. Machine Description of finishing section .......................................................... 99
3.7.7. Different types of Machine used ..................................................................... 100
3.7.8. Materials used in garment finishing ................................................................ 101
3.7.9. Spot removing .................................................................................................. 101
3.7.10. Ironing ............................................................................................................ 102
3.7.11. Garment Inspection ....................................................................................... 103
3.7.12. Trims .............................................................................................................. 103
3.8. Printing Section ................................................................................................... 105
3.8.1 Printing .............................................................................................................. 106
3.8.2 Printing System ................................................................................................. 106
3.8.3 Types of printing ............................................................................................... 106
3.8.4 Sequence of printing ......................................................................................... 106
3.8.5 Screen Preparation ........................................................................................... 107
3.8.6 Factors Affecting Cost of Printing ..................................................................... 108
3.9. Embroidery Section ............................................................................................. 108
3.9.1 Embroidery........................................................................................................ 108
3.9.2 Embroidery Machine Specification ................................................................... 108
3.9.3 Embroidery stitching type ................................................................................. 109
3.9.4 Embroidery Faults ............................................................................................. 110
3.10 Quality Section ................................................................................................... 110
3.10.1. Quality objectives .......................................................................................... 110
3.10.2. Machines required for quality ....................................................................... 110
3.10.3. Inspection Area .............................................................................................. 110
3.10.4. Faults Found in QC Department .................................................................... 111
3.10.5. Quality Assurance System .............................................................................. 111
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3.10.6. Online Quality control .................................................................................... 111
3.10.7. Off line quality control: .................................................................................. 112
3.11. Merchandising Section...................................................................................... 112
3.11.1. Objects of Merchandising .............................................................................. 113
3.11.2. Flow Chart of Garments Merchandizing ........................................................ 113
3.11.3. Merchandising Calculation: ........................................................................... 114
3.12. Effluent Treatment Plan .................................................................................... 117
3.12.1 Functions of different Ingredients Used in E. T. P Plant: ................................ 117
3.13. Utilities section ................................................................................................. 117
3.14. Compliance ....................................................................................................... 118
3.14.1. Compliance .................................................................................................... 118
3.14.2. Health ............................................................................................................. 119
3.14.3. Toilet: ............................................................................................................. 119
3.14.4. Fire: ................................................................................................................ 120
3.14.5. Safety Guard: ................................................................................................. 120
3.14.6. Others: ........................................................................................................... 120
4. Impact of internship .............................................................................................. 121
4.1. Knitting ................................................................................................................ 122
4.2. Dyeing and Finishing ........................................................................................... 122
4.3. Sample development .......................................................................................... 122
4.4 CAD Section .......................................................................................................... 122
4.5. Cutting ................................................................................................................. 122
4.6. Sewing ................................................................................................................. 122
4.7. Finishing .............................................................................................................. 123
4.8. Printing ................................................................................................................ 123
4.9. Embroidery.......................................................................................................... 123
4.10. Quality ............................................................................................................... 123
4.11. Merchandising .................................................................................................. 123
4.12. ETP..................................................................................................................... 123
4.13. Utilities .............................................................................................................. 123
4.14. Compliance ....................................................................................................... 123
5. Conclusion.............................................................................................................. 124

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List of Figure
3.1 Knitting Section .......................................................................................................................21
3.2 Knitting Section layout.............................................................................................................22
3.3 Circular Knit Machine ..............................................................................................................26
3.4 Flat Knit Machine......................................................................................................................27
3.5 Fabric Hole................................................................................................................................32
3.6 Needle Mark ............................................................................................................................33
3.7 Sicker Mark ..............................................................................................................................33
3.8 Yarn Contamination .................................................................................................................34
3.9 Oil Mark ...................................................................................................................................34
3.10 Dyeing & Finishing Section Layout ........................................................................................35
3.11 Dyeing Machine .....................................................................................................................37
3.12 Slitting Machine .....................................................................................................................45
3.13 Stented Machine ...................................................................................................................46
3.14 Compactor Machine ..............................................................................................................47
3.15 Uneven Dyeing ......................................................................................................................48
3.16 Crease Mark ..........................................................................................................................49
3.17 Dye Spot ................................................................................................................................49
3.18 Yarn Missing ..........................................................................................................................50
3.19 Sample Section ......................................................................................................................51
3.20 Sample Section Layout ..........................................................................................................52
3.21 CAD Section ...........................................................................................................................57
3.22 Computerized Marker Making ..............................................................................................58
3.23 Cutting Section ......................................................................................................................59
3.24 Cutting Section Layout ...........................................................................................................60
3.25 4- Point System inspection ....................................................................................................62
3.26 GSM Inspection .....................................................................................................................62
3.27 Fabric Relaxation ...................................................................................................................63
3.28 Auto Spreading ......................................................................................................................64
3.29 Manual Spreading .................................................................................................................64
3.30 Plotter Machine .....................................................................................................................67
3.31 Marker Collection from CAD Section .....................................................................................69
3.32 Marker Setting .......................................................................................................................69
3.33 Fabric Cutting ........................................................................................................................70
3.34 Auto Cutting Machine ...........................................................................................................71
3.35 Straight Knife Cutting Machine..............................................................................................72
3.36 Numbering .............................................................................................................................74
3.37 Sewing Section ......................................................................................................................76
3.38 Layout of Sewing Floor ..........................................................................................................77
3.39 Needle Parts ..........................................................................................................................80
3.40 Plain Machine ........................................................................................................................81
3.41 Over lock Machine ................................................................................................................82
3.42 Flat Lock Machine ..................................................................................................................83
3.43 Button Hole Machine ............................................................................................................84
3.44 Button Attach Machine .........................................................................................................85
3.45 Bar-Take Machine ..................................................................................................................85
3.46 Feed off the Arm ...................................................................................................................86
3.47 KANSAI (Special) ....................................................................................................................87
1
3.48 Single Thread Blind Stitch ......................................................................................................88
3.49 Lock Stitch Face View ............................................................................................................88
3.50 Lock Stitch Back View ............................................................................................................88
3.51 Dabble Needle Lock Stitch Face View ....................................................................................88
3.52 Dabble Needle Lock Stitch Back View ....................................................................................88
3.53 Zigzag Lock Stitch Face View .................................................................................................88
3.54 Zigzag Lock Stitch Back View .................................................................................................88
3.55 Chain Stitch Face View ..........................................................................................................89
3.56 Chain Stitch Back View..........................................................................................................89
3.57 2Needle Chain Stitch Face View ...........................................................................................89
3.58 2Needle Chain Stitch Back View ...........................................................................................89
3.59 Two Needle Cover Stitch Face view .......................................................................................89
3.60 Two Needle Cover Stitch Back view ......................................................................................89
3.61 Three Needle Cover Stitch Face view ....................................................................................89
3.62 Three Needle Cover Stitch Back view ....................................................................................89
3.63 Three Thread Over edge Face view .......................................................................................89
3.64 Three Thread Over edge Back view .......................................................................................89
3.65 Metal Detector M/C ...........................................................................................................100
3.66 Thread Sucker M/C ..............................................................................................................100
3.67 Ironing M/C .........................................................................................................................102
3.68 Printing Section ...................................................................................................................105
3.69 Automatic Flat Screen Printing ............................................................................................106
3.70 Curing Process......................................................................................................................107
3.71 Embroidery M/C ..................................................................................................................109
3.72 Embroidery Head .................................................................................................................109
.

2
List of Table
2.1 General Information about Factory...............................................................................8
2.2 Brief Profile ................................................................................................................13
2.3 Machinery list of Knitting Section .............................................................................14
2.4 Machinery list of Dyeing & Finishing Section ..........................................................14
2.5 Machinery list of Cutting Section ..............................................................................14
2.6 Machinery list of Sewing Section ..............................................................................15
2.7 Machinery list of Finishing Section ...........................................................................15
2.8 Machinery list of Printing Section .............................................................................15
2.9 V Machinery list of Embroidery Section ...................................................................16
2.10 Utilities ....................................................................................................................16
2.11 Major Buyers with their logo ..................................................................................18
3.1 Specification of the circular knitting Machine............................................................25
3.2 Description of the circular knitting Machine...........................................................27-30
3.3 Types of Yarn Use in MKCL ......................................................................................................30
3.4 Dyeing Machine Specification .................................................................................................37
3.5 Different Types of Chemicals used in MKCL with Their Function ............................................39
3.6 Fabric Relaxation time .............................................................................................................63
3.7 Ideal Lay Height .......................................................................................................................65
3.8 Machine & Equipment used in cutting Section .......................................................................75
3.9 Thread, Needle, Looper used in Different Machine ...........................................................87-88
3.10 Machine Description of finishing Section ..............................................................................99
3.11 Stain Removal ......................................................................................................................102
3.12 Basic Ironing Symbol ...........................................................................................................103
3.13 Sewing Thread Consumption ...............................................................................................116
3.14 Water of E.T.P ......................................................................................................................117

3
Chapter- 1
Executive Summery

4
1. Executive Summery

This report is titled ―Report on Industrial Attachment at Meghna Knit Composite


Ltd‖. By achieving practical knowledge from the industrial attachment it is possible to
apply the theoretical knowledge in the technical field. For any technical education,
practical experience is almost equally necessary in association with the theoretical
knowledge. The industrial attachment is the most effective process of achieving the
practical experiences. It provides us sufficient practical knowledge about Production
Management, Productivity, Evaluation, Work Study, Efficiency, Industrial Management,
Production Planning & Controlling, Utilities and Maintenance of Machineries and their
Operation Techniques etc. Meghna Knit Composite Ltd is a modern textile industry based
on knit garments production. Our approach was to know and work with all the parameters
of each section and practice with technical experts. As our academic advance study was
in Garment Manufacturing Technology our emphasis was in understanding and learning
of Weaving. Industrial attachment is an essential part of four years B.Sc. in Textile
Engineering course of Daffodil International University. We had the opportunity to
perform the industrial attachment with Meghna Knit Composite Ltd. During 2 Months
long attachment, we studied the Man, Machine, Material and Planning, Grey Fabric
Inspection, Finished Fabric Inspection, According to our studies in the whole chain of the
factory we have prepared the following report and would like to present as our internship
report. B.Sc. in Textile Engineering is the combination of theoretical knowledge and the
practical experiences. The main objective of this training is to comprehend our theoretical
knowledge along with the practical knowledge. It also enabled us to orient ourselves with
the practical environment which is our place of future work.

5
CHAPTER: 2
Introduction

6
2.Introduction:

2.1 Information about Factory


Meghnaknit composite Ltd.instigated its journey in the last quarter of 2006,with a vision
of becoming the most recognized knitwear manufacturer of the country as well as to make
the widely known reputation of bangladesh as a global clothing leader to a new height by
offering the best blend of quality and efficiency.Meghnaknit composite Ltd (MKCL) is
equiped with the most advanced textile technology from the US,Europe,Hong Kong,and
Japan.We have not only ensured the best ever technology but also a band of highly
skilled,professionally dedicated industrial manpower and mangement team toexelin tune
with our technology.this built-in composition is to ensure quality in producing levit
textiles for onward manufacturing of ready-to-wear knit garments and knit fabrics-all
under one roof.

2.2 gtiititning :
Foucusing solely in knitwear apparel lines,MKCL has adopted a structure by
reengineering its value chain to deliver high quality products in shorter lead time with
flexibility in order size.Moreover,having endless efforts to ensume internationally
accepted employment practice,our cleints recognize us as a partner to protect their value
system and images among final consumer.

7
2.3. General information about factory

Table- 2.1 General information about factory


Company Name Meghna knit Composite Ltd.
Legal Status Private Limited Company
BKMEA Membership 834
Number
Membership Type Ordinary Member
Year of Establishment 2006
Head office adress House.49,Sharwardy Avenue Block-k,Gulsan-
BaridaraDhaka-1212
Phone : +880-2-9854591-6, Fax : +880-2-9854597
E-mail :info@meghnagroup-bd.com
Web : www.meghnagroup-bd.com
Factory Address Gilarchala, Sreepur, Gazipur, Bangladesh
Factory Area 3,50,000 sq. ft.
Name of the Banker 1) Prime Bank Limited. Principal Branch. 82,
Motijheel Commercial Area, Dhaka-1000,
Bangladesh.
2) United Commercial Bank Ltd. Principal Branch.
58, Motijheel C/A, Dhaka-1000, Bangladesh.
Nature of Business Completely 100% export oriented knitwear
manufacturing & exporting Industry. Also have the
permission to import materials related with export
Contact Person M Moklasur Rahman pinto - Managing Director
Mohammad MonjurHasan– Director(Marketing &
Business Development)
Manpower 3070
Machinery setup Complete sewing & stitching setup for 32-lines.
Complete setup for producing 6.00 MT knit fabrics
(finish) per day. Computerized Embroidery setup for
own garments production. Complete Screen Printing
setup with latest curing machine for own production.
Export Market UK, USA, Central Europe, Spain, Sweden
Product wise capacity High Fancy/Polo shirt = 2.40 Million Pcs. (Annually)
Basic knit/T-shirt & others = 6.00 Million
Annual Export Turnover USD 40.00 million

8
2.4. Layout

Knitting section

Dyeing scetion

Sample section

Cutting section

Printing Section

Sewing Section

Finishing Section

9
2.5. Organogram

10
2.6. Sister Concerns
Meghna group‘s concerns……….

 BI CYCLE DIVISION

Meghna are the largest in Bangladesh exporting bicycles to Europe.

 Transworld Bicycle Co. Ltd.


 Uniglory Cycle Industries Ltd.
 M&U Cycles Ltd.
 BI CYCLE COMPONENTS
Meghna have 5 bi cycle components of factories.
 Uniglory Cycle components Ltd.
 Meghna Rubber Industries Ltd.
 Abrar Steels Ltd.
 Uniglory Wheels Ltd.
 Meghna Bearing Ltd.

 AUTOMOBILE DIVISION
Meghna represent two car brands.

 Executive Motors (BMW)


 Meghna Automobiles Ltd. (KIA)
 CEMENT INDUSTRY
 Producing Elephant brand White Cement under the license from Siam Group
of Thailand. A joint venture with Siam Group.

 MEGHNA MAINETTI LTD.


 Joint venture project with Mainetti of Italy producing hangers for export
oriented garment industry of Bangladesh.

 UNIGLORY PACKING LTD.


 Automated corrugated carton manufacturing unit.

 BETA PACKAGING LTD.

 Automated corrugated carton manufacturing unit.

11
 M&U PACKAGING LTD.

 Poly bag & carton manufacturing unit

 CYCLE LIFE

 Sole distributor of Raleigh bikes from UK and Phoenix Bickes of China in


Bangladesh.

 EXECUTIVE MACHINES

 Sole agent of Apple computers

 EXECUTIVE TECHNOLOGIES

 Sole agent of Acer computers from Taiwan.

2.7. Product mix


 Men/Ladies/Girls/Boys/Infants Knitted Fancy T-shirt
 Polo Shirt
 Long pant
 Short pant
 Sweater
 Skirts
 Trouser
 Tank Dress with quality prints
 Hand works
 Embroidery etc.

12
2.8. Brief profile (numbers of worker, area, total machineries, etc)
Total Manpower Summery
Table- 2.2 Brief profile
Section No of Manpower
Accounts Section 03
Management & stuff 03
HR & Admin, Compliance 23
Marketing & Merchandising 28
Production Stuff 73
Work study 18
Knitting Section 147
Batch Section 53
Dyeing Lab 18
Dyeing Section 82
Dyeing quality & R&D 44
Finishing Section (Dyeing) 135
Cutting Section 159
Sample Section 37
Sewing Section 928
Sewing helper 248
Input man 30
Finishing Section 353
Quality (garments) 346
Store (Garments & Textile) 112
Embroidery section 52
Maintenance 44
Medical 4
IT 2
Driver 13
Security 38
House keeper 76

13
Total =3070
Machinery list:

Knitting section

Table- 2.3 Knitting section

Name Number Origin


1. Single jersey circular knitting machine 16 Japan
1. Rib circular knitting machine 4 Japan
2. Flat knitting machine 6 Japan
3. Grey fabric Inspection machine 2 Thailand

Dyeing & Finishing section

Table-2.4 Dyeing & Finishing section

4. Dyeing (Sample) 8 China


5. Dyeing 11 China, Germany, Greece
6. Dryer 4 Taiwan
7. Slitting machine 3 Italy
8. Stenter machine 3 Germany
9. Compactor machine 2 Italy
10. Fabric Inspection machine 3 Thailand

Cutting section

Table- 2.5 Cutting section

11. Fabric Inspection machine 3 Thailand


12. Fabric spreader machine 5 China
13. Fabric cutter machine (Auto) 2 France
14. Band knife 1 China
15. Hand knife/Straight knife 5 Japan

14
Sewing Section

Table- 2.6 Sewing Section

16. Plain machine 420 Japan, China


17. Over lock machine 345 Japan, China
18. Flat lock machine 193 Japan, China
19. Button Hole machine 10 Japan
20. Button Stitch machine 10 Japan
21. Bar-take machine 6 Japan
22. Feed off the Arm Hole machine 26 Japan
23. Multi thread chain stitch machine 3 Japan
24. Rib cutter machine 8
25. Thread cutter 31

Finishing Section

Table- 2.7 Finishing Section

26. Thread sucker machine 6 China


27. Metal detector machine 2 China
28. Iron 80
29. Electric Boiler 5

Printing Section

Table- 2.8 Printing Section

30. Auto printing machine 3 Europe


31. Curing machine(gas, Stream) 2 Poland
32. Heat press machine 3 Local
33. Dryer 2 Local

15
Embroidery Section

Table- 2.9 Embroidery Section

34. Embroidery machine with 20 head 5 Korea


35. Embroidery machine with 20 head 1 Korea

Utilities

Table- 2.10 Utilities

36. Gas Generator (1030 KW) 1 USA


37. Diesel Generator (800 KW) 1 USA
38. Diesel Generator (500KW) 1 USA
39. Boiler (7.8 ton) 1 USA
40. Air Compressor 1 Korea
41. Water pump 1 Local
42. Sub station 1 Local

16
2.9. Plant Layout

17
2.10. Major buyers with their Logo
Table- 2.11 Major buyers with their Logo

Buyer Name Major Markets Logo

H&M Sweeden

M&S UK

Next UK

Mayoral Spain

Tesco UK

Cubus UK

Perry Ellis UK

Gymboree USA

P&C Germany

Dressmann Norway

Decathlon France

18
2.11. Mission and Vision of Meghna
From 2006 till now, Meghna Group always expands itself. Meghna group offers a
proficient production facility, even for smaller volume orders which attached an
overall efficiency to serve both volume customers as well as upper class buyers.
Meghna‘s products export in different countries such as Japan, Italy, France, Sweden,
Norway, Finland, UK & Canada. Our production management is ISO 9001:2000
certified and our fabrics quality is Oeko-Tex certified. Day-by day our production has
been increased along with our experience. We always give priority to hard work
perseverance, which bring us today in this admirable and viable position.

 Ultimate satisfaction through providing on-time delivery with correct


Quality Products & Services.

 Excellent working environment in compliance with national &


international rules.

 Building a strong relationship.

 Reaching the highest level.

Vision:

The main vision of Meghna Group is to provide the best service with quality product.
With a slogan of ‗From yarn to the ultimate garments‘ Falcon is developing step by step
through its honesty, integrity and hard work. Till-to-date, the top management intensively
supervises & keeps in touch with the production, merchandising & sourcing, which often
comes handy for our buyers. The communication with buyers is strongly maintained by
us that develop as bond of reliance.

19
Chapter- 3
Description of the Attachment

20
3. Description of the Attachment
3.1 Knitting Section
The process in which fabrics are produces by set of connected loops or intermeshing of
loop from a series of yarns in weft or warp direction is called knitting. When one loop is
drowning through another loop, a stitch is formed. Stitches may be formed in a horizontal
and vertical direction.

Fig- 3.1 Knitting Section

21
3.1.1 Layout

Fig- 3.2 Knitting Section Layout

22
3.1.2 Organogram
General
Manager(Knitting
, R&D)

Manager

Sr. Production
officer

Production
officer

Knitting Master

Q.C

Incharge

Supervisor

Operator

Helper

23
3.1.3 Production Flow Chart of Knitting Section

Sample fabric

Design analysis

Machine selection

Setting the machine


for the specific design

Sample Knitting

Sample approval

Start bulk production

Grey fabric inspection

Sent to Grey fabric


store

3.1.4 Flow Chart for Circular Knitting


Yarn in package form

Place the yarn package in the creel

Feeding the yarn

Set the m/c as per design & GSM

Knitting

Withdraw the roll fabric and weight

Inspection

Numbering

24
3.1.5 Specification of the Machineries
 Machineries used in Knitting Section

 Single jersey circular knitting machine.


 Flat knit machine.
 Fabric Inspection machine.
 GSM cutter.
 Electric balance

 Specification of the Circular knitting machine


Table- 3.1 Specification of the Circular knitting machine
M/c M/c Brand name Origin Model Dia Gauge Feeder No. of Safety Capacity
type Needle rpm (Kg/Shift)
01, Single FUKUHARA Japan VXC- 28 24 90 2111 33.5 555.78
02 jersey S3.2RE
03, Single FUKUHARA Japan VXC- 32 24 104 2412 23.4 421.2
04 jersey S3.2RE
05 1x1 FUKUHARA Japan V- 34 18 60 1696 22.4 174.97
Rib ER2.2
06, 2x1 FUKUHARA Japan V- 30 18 60 1696 22.4 254
08 Rib ER2.2
07 2x2 FUKUHARA Japan V- 36 28 64 2034 28.6 191.02
Rib ER2.2
9,10 Single FUKUHARA Japan VXC-3S 30 24 90 2260 24.5 298.37
,12 jersey
11 Fleece FUKUHARA Japan VXC-3S 30 20 90 1884 25.3 244.58
Fabric
13, Single FUKUHARA Japan VXC-3S 26 24 78 1960 28.7 316.05
14 jersey
15, Single FUKUHARA Japan VXC-3S 36 24 108 2714 23.8 569.29
16 jersey
17, Single FUKUHARA Japan VXC- 34 24 110 2563 25.4 443.5
18 jersey S3.2RE
19, Single FUKUHARA Japan VXC- 36 24 118 2714 24.5 490,630
20 jersey S3.2RE

25
 Circular knitting machine

Fig- 3.3Circular knitting machine

 Specification of Flat knit machine

Brand name : SHIMA SEIKI

Origin : Japan

Model No : SFF152-T

M/c dia : 60‘‘

M/c gauge : 14GG

Motor type : Step motor

26
Fig- 3.4 Flat knit m/c

3.1.6 Description of knitting machine parts


Table- 3.2 Description of knitting machine parts

Name of Picture Function


the parts
Creel Creel is a part of knitting machine. Here
yarn packages are stored for yarn feeding
in the machine.

MPF Its control the speed of the MPF. Pulley


Wheel belt gives motion to the wheel.

MPF It‗s mean Mamminger positive feed. It


gives equal length yarn distribution in the
knitting cycle.

VDQ It is a very important part of the machine.


pulley It controls the quality of the product.
VDQ pulley is used to control the GSM
by controlling the stitch length.

27
Pulley belt It controls the rotation of the MPF wheel.

Yarn It helps the yarn to feed in the feeder &


guide pipe also reduce ply.

Inlet & It is an important part of the machine. It


outlet stop stops the machine instantly when a yarn
motion breaks.

Feeder It is a ring where all feeders are place


ring together.

Feeder Feeder is a device where yarn passes


through the knitting section.

Brush It cleans the pulley belt.

Sinker It is most important element of the


machine. It helps to loop formation, hold
down the loop, knocking over the loop.

28
Sinker It is a ring where all sinkers are placed
ring together.

Cam Cam is a device which converts rotary


machine drive into a suitable
reciprocating action for the needles and
other elements. The cams are carefully
profiled to produce precisely-time
movement and dwell periods and are two
types, engineering and knitting cams.
Cam box Where cam are placed horizontally in the
box.

Needle Needle is a primary knitting elements. It


gives movement according to the cam
arrangement.

Cylinder Needle track are situated here.

Needle Where all needles are placed in a decent


trick design.

Lycra Lycra is placed here and feeding to the


attachment machine.

29
Lycra stop When lycra is broken it stops the
motion machine.

Automatic It gives the machine oil all the time


oiler properly and automatically.

3.1.7 Types of yarn use in MKCL


Table- 3.3 Types of yarn use in MKCL

Types yarn Count


Cotton 24‗s,26‗s,28‗s,30‗s,32‗s,34‗s,36‗s,40‗s,20/2,30/2,40/2
Polyester 70D,100D,150 D
Spandex 20D, 40D, 70D
Viscose 30D, 26D, 40D
Grey mélange(C-90 %, V- 24‗s,26‗s
10%)
CVC (C-60%, P-40%) 24‗s,26‗s,28‗s,30‗s
PC (P-65%, C-35%) 24‗s,26‗s,30s

3.1.8 Considerable points to produce knit Fabrics


When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related to production and
quality. Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider. Those
are as follows-
 Type of Fabric or design of Fabric.
 Finished G.S.M.
 Yarn count
 Types of yarn (combed or carded)
 Diameter of the fabric.
 Stitch length
 Color depth
30
3.1.9 Production Parameters in Knitting Section
This section plans for knitting production. Following parameters are important for the
planning of knitting the fabric-
 Order quantity (required amount of fabric to be knitted)

 Type of fabric to be knitted (S/J, rib, interlock)

 No of machine to be used

 Type of yarn used

 Sources of yarn

 Fabric GSM, width

The main parameters controlled in knitting section are stitch length, GSM, Fabric
diameter etc.

3.1.10 Sources of Yarns Used in Knitting Section


 India

 Kamal spinning

 Delta Spinning

 Hanif Spinning

 Malek Textile

 Square Textile

 NRG Synthetic

 PHP Textile

 Badsha spinning

3.1.11 Types of Fabrics Produce in MKCL


- Single Jersey

- Heavy Jersey

- Rib (1x1 2x2, 2x1)

- Rib with Lycra

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- Single Jersey with Lycra

- Interlock

- Single Lacoste

- Double Lacoste

- Terry

- Fleece

- Pique

- Pique Lycra

- Stripe Fabric

- Grey Melange (5% ,10%, 15% Viscose)

3.1.12 Knitting fault, Causes & Their Remedies


A. Hole Mark
Causes
 Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks.

 During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook.

 If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and
density.

 Badly knot or splicing.

 Yarn feeder badly set.

Fig- 3.5 Fabric hole

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Remedies

 Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform.

 Use proper count of yarn.

 Correctly set of yarn feeder.

 Knot should be given properly.

B. Needle Mark
Causes
 When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics.
 If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes on the
fabrics.

Fig- 3.6 Needle mark


Remedies
 Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.
C. Sinker Mark
Causes
 When sinker corrodes due to abrasion then sometimes cannot hold a new loop as a
result sinker mark comes.

 If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes.

Fig- 3.7 Sinker mark


33
Remedies
 Sinker should be changed.
D. Yarn Contamination
Causes
 If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after finishing.
 If lot, count mixing occurs.

Fig- 3.8 Yarn Contamination


Remedies
 By avoiding lot, count mixing.
E. Oil Mark
Causes
 When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and make a line.

Fig- 3.9 Oil mark


Remedies
 Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.

 Well maintenance as well as proper oiling.

34
3.2 Dyeing & Finishing Section
3.2.1 Layout

Fig- 3.10 Dyeing & Finishing Section Layout

3.2.2 Batching
Batching is the process to get ready the fabrics which should be dyed and processed for a
particular lot of a particular order.

Function or Purpose of Batch Section:

- To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source.

- Turn the grey fabric if require.

- To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria –

35
 Order sheet (Received from buyer)

 Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark)

 M/C capacity

 M/C available

 Type of fabrics (100% cotton, PE, PC, CVC)

 Emergency

- To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.

- To keep records for every previous dyeing.

 Machines specification of batch section


Machine Name : Air turning m/c
Brand Name : Taida
Origin : China
Model : DF 200
M/c Speed : 300-500m/min
Max up clothing : 150 kg

3.2.3 Dyeing

A process of coloring fibers, yarns, fabrics or garments with either natural or synthetic
dyes under specified conditions. Dyeing is normally done is a special solution containing
dyes and particular chemical material .After dyeing dye molecule have uncut chemical
bond with the fiber molecules.

Two key factors of dyeing

1. Temperature and

2. Time controlling

36
3.2.4 Dyeing Machine specification
Table- 3.4 Dyeing Machine specification

M/c no. Type Brand Origin Capacity (kg)


1,2,3,4,6 High Temperature, High Pressure Fong‘s China 10
05,07 High Temperature, High Pressure Fong‘s China 30
08 High Temperature, High Pressure Fong‘s China 60
09 High Temperature, High Pressure Fong‘s China 250
10 High Temperature, High Pressure Fong‘s China 500
11,16 High Temperature, High Pressure Fong‘s China 750
12 Atmospheric Fong‘s China 400
13 High Temperature, High Pressure Fong‘s China 800
14,17 High Temperature, High Pressure Fong‘s China 1500
15 Atmospheric Fong‘s China 1000
18 High Temperature, High Pressure Thies Greece 1500
19 High Temperature, High Pressure SOLAVOSS-A Germany 1500

 Total machine Capacity = 10600 kg


 Total dyeing Capacity= 18 Ton per day

Fig- 3.11 Dyeing machine

37
3.2.5 Flow Chart for Dyeing
Grey fabric receive from knitting section

Batching

Select m/c no

Fabric loading

Select production program

Pre treatment

Select recipe for dyeing Recipe confirm by D.M / S.P.O

Dyeing

Post treatment

Unload

 Raw materials for dyeing:


Raw materials used in the dyeing section are:

 Grey fabrics
 Dyes
 Chemicals

3.2.6 Dyeing Parameter


PH level for different Operation
 Bleaching bath pH: 10.5 – 11

 Neutralization or after bleaching pH : 5.5 – 6.5

 Bio polishing bath pH : 4 -4.5

38
 Initial dye bath pH : 5– 6

 After salt addition pH : 6.5 – 7.5

 After alkali addition pH : 10.5 – 11.2

 After dyeing pH : 5.0 – 6.0

 Fixation bath pH : 4– 4.5

 Softener bath pH: 5.5 – 6.0 (For white)

3.2.7 Different types of chemicals used in MKCL with their function


Table- 3.5 Different types of chemicals used in MKCL with their function

Chemical Function
Alvaftex –LFK Detergent or sequestering agent
Hk-208 Anticreasing agent
Sirrix 2UD Levelling agent
Alvaflew JET Antifoaming agent
Inoactive PP sequestering agent
Prostab S-205 Stabilizer
Caustic soda (NaOH) Scouring
Soda Ash Colour fixing
Hydose Striping
Albafix-ECO Colour fixing
Acetic acid Neutralizer
Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) Bleaching
Farbenzyme PK, Bactosal-SAP Peroxide (H2O2) killer
Genencar BF 35000L Enzyme
Glaber Salt Electrolyte
Dyapol NEU Neutralizer
Power soft 180 Silicon Softner
Croscolor BSCR Soaping agent

39
3.2.8 Typical Process Flow Chart of Knit Dyeing
Pretreatment:
Fill Water

Fabric loading and m/c run

Inject all chemicals at 45˚C (Except NaOH & H2O2)

Alkali Dosing at 50˚C for 10 min (pH should be 10.5-11.5)

Rise temp to 70˚C

Inject Hydrogen per oxide for 3-5 min

Rinse for 5 min

Drain for 2 min

Soaping:
Fill hot water (50◦c)

Add chemical

Rise temp 95◦c for 10 min

Rinse 10 min

Drain for 2 min

Neutralization:
Fill hot water (50˚C)

Add acid for neutralization at 50˚C [pH should be 5-6]
40
(Runtime 10 min)

Rinse

Drain

Bio polishing:
Fill hot water (50˚C)

Rise temp to 55˚C

Add acetic acid for pH control (pH should be 4-4.5)

Add enzyme& run 45min at 55˚C

Rinse for 3 min

Drain for 2 min

Dyeing (according to developed process):


Fill hot water [pH should be 5.5-6.5]

Add leveling chemicals at 60˚c

Then add antifoam, sequestering agents
(Run time 10-15 min)

Add salt in 10 min& run 10-15 min

Color Dosing for 30 min (Linear Dosing) [pH should be 6.5-7.5]
(Runtime 30 min)

41
Alkali dosing for 45 min (Progressive Dosing) [pH should be 10.5-11.2]
(Runtime 5-10 min)

Rise temp

Run time 40-60 min (Required to match the shade)

Rinse for 5 min

Drain for 2 min
Neutralization:
Fill hot water (50˚C)

Add acid for neutralization at 50˚C [pH should be 5-6] run 10 min

Rinse

Drain
Soaping:
Fill hot water (50˚C)

Add chemicals

Rise temp to 95˚C for 10 min

Rinse for 5 min

Drain for 2 min

Fixing (only for dark shade):


Fill hot water (40˚C)

42
Add Fixing chemicals [pH should be 4.5-5.5]

Runtime 10 min (linear)

Drain
Softening:
Fill water (40˚C)

Add softener

Runtime 20-30 min at 40˚C

Fabric unload

43
3.2.9. Finishing section
Textile finishing is a term commonly applied to different process that the textile
material under go after pre-treatment, dyeing or printing for final embellishment to
enhance their attractiveness and sale appeal as well as for comfort and usefulness.

The aim of finishing is to render textile goods fit for their purpose or end use.
Finishing can be done for achieving the following purposes.

 To improve fabric attractiveness.


- By modification of fabric appearance (Calendaring, Optical brightening)
- By altering fabric handle (Softening, Stiffening)
- Control of fabric dimension (Sanforising, Compacting)
 To improve service ability.
- Protection of fabric (Flame proofing, Water proofing)
- Improved performance (Water repellency, Raising)
- Easy care properties (Resin finish, Crease recovery)
After dyeing, knit fabric is required to finish. During dyeing all knit fabric are dyed in
tubular form. According to buyer‘s requirement knit fabric are finished in open form
or tubular form.

Types of finishing:
a. Chemical finishing:
 Chemical reaction of auxiliaries with fibers.
 Application of the handle modifying products / additives.
b. Mechanical finishing:
 Mechanical treatment with machines.

3.2.10 Machine Specification of Finishing Section


Tumble Dryer
 Brand name : PMD
 Origin : Taiwan
 Model : TD-300
 Maximum Temperature : 120◦ c

44
Slitting machine
 Brand name : Bianco
 Origin : Italy
 Pressure : 7-8 bar
 Speed : 80 m/min

Fig- 3.12 Slitting machine


Important parts:
 Twist detector

 Cutting knife/device

 Padder
Main Function of Slitting m/c
 To open the tube forms of fabric
 Wash the fabric
 Dewatering.
Controlling Points
 Pressure: The padder pressure should be according to requirement (7 bar)

 Speed: The speed should be optimum (30-80 m/min)

3.2.11 Stenter machine


 Brand Name : Burckner

 Origin : Germany

 Speed : 5 – 40 m/min

 Over feed : 40% max

 Chamber :8
45
 Burner : 8×2

 Blower : 8×2

 Temperature range : 100 – 220◦C

Fig- 3.13 Stenter m/c

Important parts
 Burner
 Exhaust air fan
 Suction fan
 Overfeed roller
 Nozzle
 Chain arrangement
The basic functions of the stenter machine:
 To control width.
 To control GSM.

 To control shrinkage.

 To control spirality.

 Drying of fabric.

 To remove edge curl of the fabric

 To remove the crease mark of the fabric

 To remove the hardness of the fabric


46
 To increase the better shade properties

 To give better finishing result of the fabric


Controlling Points:
 Temperature- It depends on color construction and composition of the fabric.
For S/J the temp is 150oC and 170oC for stripe fabrics.
 Over feed-Over feed increases the GSM of the fabric.
 Width setting-Higher width setting reduces the GSM
 Speed-It depends on construction and amount of moisture on the fabric.

3.2.12 Compactor machine


Specification
 Brand name : Lafer
 Origin : Italy
 Speed : 15-20 m/min
 Over feed : 7% maxi
 Temperature : 100◦ c- 150◦ c

Fig- 3.14 Compactor machine

Important parts:
 Overfeed roller

 Blanket(2)

47
 Steam sprayers

 Cylinder(2)

 Teflon covers

The basic functions of the Open compactor machine:

 To control the GSM. (Increase & decrease).

 To control the dia.

 To control the shrinkage. (Increase & decrease).

3.2.13 Common dyeing faults with their remedies


a) Uneven dyeing:
Causes:
 Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching).
 Improper color dosing.
 Using dyes of high fixation property.
 Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.
 Lack of control on dyeing m/c

Fig- 3.15 Uneven dyeing


Remedies:
 By ensuring even pretreatment.
 By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.
 Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.
 Proper controlling of dyeing m/c
b) Crease mark:

Causes:
 Poor opening of the fabric rope.

 Shock cooling of synthetic material.


48
 If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal.

 Due to high speed m/c running.

Fig- 3.16 Crease mark

Remedies:
 Maintaining proper reel sped &pumps speed.

 Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature.

 Reducing the m/c load.

 Higher liquor ratio.

c) Dye spot:
Causes:
 Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath.

 Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath.

Fig- 3.17 Dye spot

Remedies:

 By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals.

 By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh


strainer, so that the large un-dissolved particles are removed.

49
d) Yarn Missing:
Causes:
 High tension
 Bad setting of the yarn feeders.
 Wrong Needle selection (Wrong sequence of needles, put in the Cylinder)

Fig- 3.18 yarn missing


Remedies:
 Ensure uniform and the right yarn tension on all the feeders.
 Keep the recommended gap between the yarn feeders and the needles.
 Periodically change the complete set of needles.

50
3.3 Sample Section
In garments industry, the sample which is come from buyer and it is followed for bulk
production called sample. Garment samples are inevitably important and are
developed tested before starting the bulk production. It means making a sample of the
garment /fabric which requires to be sold. Sampling is one of the main processes in
Garment Industry and it has a vital role in attracting buyers. Because the buyers
generally places the order after they are satisfied with the quality of the samples.

Fig- 3.19 Sample Section

51
3.3.1 Layout

Fig- 3.20 Sample Section Layout

52
3.3.2 Organogram

Sample Manager
Sr. Executive
Pattern Master (CAD)
Sample Supervior
Sampleman
Ironman
Q.C
Cuttingman
Helper

3.3.3. Flow sequence of sample section


Receive developed sheet from
buyer

Develop the sample

Send the sample to buyer for


approval

Approval of
sample/comments about the
sample (if necessary)

Send pre-production sample to


buyer

Start bulk production

53
3.3.4. Types of Sample produce
1. Design development:
 This is the first sample which is made for any style by most of the buyer.
 Design development is either done by buyer or factory
 The main purpose is to take the decision to proceed with the same line or not.
2. Proto sample:

 Proto sample is developed at very initial stage and normally order is


confirmed to the factory based on proto sample only.
 Normally, buyer send proto sample request to 2-3 factories.
 The factory which submits the good quality and optimum price will get
confirmation from buyer.
 Proto sample are normally prepared in similar fabric if actual fabric is not
available.
 Substitute Trims can be used on proto.
 As proto sample is given first time to the factory to buyer, so to develop the
proto sample buyer need to provide necessary information along with the
proto request. These are: Specification Sheet (Tech Pack), Bill of Material,
Development sample (optional), Paper patterns (optional), Sample of novelty
trims, Sample of fabric yardage (it may be send by buyer or asked to
develop), Details of Print or Embroidery, if any.
 Generally proto request is responded within the 7-10 days by merchandiser.
 Factory need to submit at least 4 proto samples (quantity may change buyer to
buyer)
 If buyer does not approve the proto sample, factory needs to submit the 2nd
proto sample to get approval.
 Once proto get approved buyer asks to start working on fit sample.
3. Fit sample

 Fit sample is made and send to conform the fit of the garment on live models
or on dummy and for approval of construction details.

54
At this stage of sampling, buyer makes sure that factory understands thoroughly the
construction and quality details and standards .The sample sent mostly in medium and
large sizes mentioned by the buyer.

 The fabric used for fit sample production is the actual fabric which is going to
be used for bulk production or sample yardage fabric is used.
4. Ad or photo shoot sample:

 In order to promote the new style in the market normally buyer asks for AD
sample for photo shoot.
 Buyer uses this photo for marketing purpose either on catalogue or various
media like, print, TV or websites to see the response of the consumer.
 This sample mainly sends in medium to large or sizes specified by buyer.
5. Sales man / Marketing /Showroom sample:

 The main purpose of salesman sample is to collect the order from the retailers.
 In Sales man sample actual accessories, actual fabric is used.
 The quality of the sample should be up to the mark of the buyer; hence
merchandiser should aware and make sure that product development team is
well aware about the sample quality parameters.
 The cost of sample production is given by buyer.
6. Size set sample / Back seal Sample:

 The main purpose of size set sample is to check the factory's capability to
make the sample in all sizes.
 The size set sample should be made in the actual fabric and trims.
 The samples can be made in the sampling room or actual production floor, as
required by the buyer.
 Bulk cutting of fabric for production should start only after size-set sample get
approved.
 Normally, 1-2 samples (or quantity specified by buyer) of each size need to
send to buyer.
 If sizes are more in number then buyer may ask to skip some sizes, called

jump size set sample.

55
7. GPT sample (Garment Performance Test):

 The main purpose of GPT is to perform the physical and chemical testing on
garment to ensure the performance of the garment.
 The tests done on garments are: Shrinkage, Colour Fastness, Seam
performance etc.
 Garments for GPT sample can be done along with Size Set sample.
 Normally, GPT Sample is sent to 3rd party inspection and results are sent to
both factory as well as buyer.
 If same style is having 3-4 different colours then only one color sample is
tested completely and other colours samples are tested only with colour way
test i.e. only colour fastness tests are conducted.
8. Pre- production sample: (PP sample)

 PP sample is considered to be a contract between the buyer and the factory.


 It has to be made in original fabric and trims.
 Washing, embroidery and printing should match to actual.
 PP Sample is the standard for production and bulk production garments should
be identical to PP sample.
 The factory can start the production of bulk garment only after the approval of
preproduction sample.
 PP sample sends in only one size 1-2 samples or specified by buyer.
9. Wash sample:

 Wash sample is made and submitted to buyer for assessment of feel and
handle of fabric after washing of Denim or shirt washing program, hence
either at size set stage or PP stage washing sample is sent to buyer for
approval and carry forward of washing program.
 If sample is not approved or approved with comments, factory needs to
submit 2nd sample to get approval.
 After feel assessment buyer may suggest the changes in washing program.
10. TOP sample (Top of Production):

 The top of production is sent to the buyer as soon initial pieces are come out of
sewing line with suggestion of QA department.
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 In TOP sample Buyer tries to evaluate the actual manufacturing of the style.
 Buyer check whether bulk production is as per submitted sample or not.
 TOP sample also checked by the buyer for the packaging.
11. Shipment sample:

 Few buyers may ask for the shipment samples which factory needs to pull
form the actual shipment and sent to buyer.
 The main purpose of this sample is to assure buyer about the actual shipment
dispatch.

3.4. CAD Section


 In CAD section at first the pattern put on the digitizer to take clear image of
the pattern part inside the CPU.
 After making all required size patterns using the software pattern parts are
aligned in the mini marker. Then it is sent to CPU of CAM section for
approval and checking the length & width of marker and pattern parts
alignment.
 After getting approval from CAM section thenPrinter is used to print out the
whole real marker then this marker as well as min marker is provided to the
CAM section for cutting the fabric.

Fig- 3.21 CAD Section

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3.4.1 Working sequence 0f CAD section
Receiving of pattern parts

Taking the image of pattern in CPU by Digitizer

Modernizing of all pattern parts by the software

Aligning all size pattern parts in the marker by the


software

Completing the marker

Taking approval from CAM section

Bringing out the marker through plotter

Fig- 3.22 Computerized Marker Making

3.4.2 Pattern making


After receiving an order in most cases buyer gives them a complete pattern and they
make sample according to given pattern. But in some cases they prepare the pattern
by own when buyer don not give any pattern.

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3.5 Cutting Section
The definition of cutting is very complex. In garments industries fabric is cut from lay
and spreading with accuracy and properly which is termed as fabric cutting. Marker
outline is used to cut the fabric. Fabric cutting is very important as if something is cut
in wrong way, cannot be rectified.

Fig- 3.23 Cutting Section

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3.5.1 Layout

Fig- 3.24 Cutting Section Layout

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3.5.2 Process Sequence of Cutting Section
Fabric receive from Dyeing/Store

Fabric Inspection (Shade & GSM)

Fabric Inspection (4-point System)

Fabric Relaxation

Receive Fabric to cutting table

Fabric Spreading (Manually or automatically)

Marker collect from CAD

Marker setting

Fabric cutting

Numbering

Bundeling

Quality Checking

Recut

Cutting Store

Forward to sewing

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3.5.3 Fabric inspection

Fig- 3.25 4- point system inspection

Fig- 3.26 GSM inspection

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3.5.4 Fabric Relaxation

Fig- 3.27 Fabric Relaxation


Fabric Relaxation time
Table 3.6 Fabric Relaxation time
Types of Fabric Relaxation time
100% Cotton single jersey, pique,1x1 Rib, Interlock 24 hours
Lycra single jersey, Lycra pique, Lycra Rib, Lycra Interlock 36 hours
Any kind of viscose 36 hours
Terry , Fleece 12 hours
Polyester fabric 36 hours

3.5.5 Fabric Spreading


Spreading means the smooth laying out of the fabric in superimposed layers of
specific length. The cutting marker paper is laid in the top of the fabric layer. During
spreading number of the plies should be not more than three hundreds but it depends
on the thickness of the fabric and the height of the cutting knife.

For example: if the thickness of the fabric is higher than the number of plies
mentioned above would not valid and in case of straight knife cutting instrument the
maximum lay height should be 70% of the blade height.

3.5.6 Types of Fabric Spreading


1) Automatic Spreading

2) Manual Spreading

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Specification of Auto fabric spreading machine

 Brand name : Gerber


 Model : XLS-502400
 Origin : China
 Maximum loading : 50 kg

Fig- 3.28 Auto Spreading

Fig- 3.29 Manual spreading

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3.5.7. Ideal Lay height
Table- 3.7 Ideal Lay height

Fabric type No. of ply Lay height


Single jersey 90-100 3‖
Rib 60-70 2.5‖
Lycra 80 2.5"-3‖
Viscose 70 1.5‖
Fleece 55-60 3‖
Pique 70-80 2.5"-3"

3.5.8. Requirements of fabric spreading


Spreading must achieve a number of specific objectives:

 Alignment of fabric plies.


 Correct ply tension.
 Elimination of fabric faults.
 Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability.
 Elimination of static electricity.
 Avoidance of fusion of plies.
 Avoidance of distortion in spread.
 Easy separation of the cut lay into bundles.
 Fabric must be flat.
 Matching checks or strips.

3.5.9. Spreading system in factory

 Manual spreader group: 3 groups.


 Gerber Spreader: 5 pcs.

3.5.10. Marker making


Marker is a thin paper which contains all the pattern pieces of a garment. It is
made just before cutting and its purpose is to minimize the wastages. The width of
a marker is equal to the width of the fabric and it should not be greater than the
width of the fabric i.e. the width of the marker is kept less than or equal to the

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width of the Fabric. The pattern pieces should be placed very carefully in such a
way that it will obviously minimize wastages.

3.5.11. Objects of marker making


 To reduce cost.
 To improve the quality of the garments.
 To reduce the cutting time.
 To facilitate large scale production.

3.5.12. Types of marker making


Generally there are two methods by which marker can be made –

a. Manual Method of Marker:

The man performs it by himself using his hands. It is a conventional system and
requires more time. Manually two types of marker are made –

1. Full size marker:

Full size marker is made for production purpose.

2. Miniature type marker:

Miniature type marker is sometime made and its purposes are to plan or schedule
and learn or study i.e. for planning and learning purposes.

3. Computerized Method:

Now the commonly used system of marker making is computerized method. In this
system, a man performs it by himself using computer software (CAD and CAM) and
it requires considerably less time than manual system. Two types of marker are
generally made using computerized system –

1. Full size marker:

Using Digitalizing Board the pattern pieces are input into the computer. Computer
uses software and a marker paper is printed out that will be used in the production.

2. Miniature type marker:

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Only for learning, practicing, and planning purposes this type of marker is printed
from the computer. To get the optimum efficiency of markers as well as to minimize
fabric wastage they done marker by computerized marker making system (VEITH). It
has the digitizer by which the patterns are make grade and with the help of the
software as well get output as marker with the plotter. The VEITH system is
discussed in below.

Specification of Marker making machine


Number of machine : 02
Machine name : Cindy Inkjet Plotter machine
Brand name : Gemini Plotter
Model : PE185-2
Origin : China

Fig- 3.30 Plotter machine

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3.5.13. Factors considered during marker making
The important factors considered during marker making are –

1. Nature of the Fabric:

The fabric may be either symmetric or asymmetric. Thus the nature of the fabric
should be considered during marker making.

2. Lay planning of patterns:


Improper lay planning of patterns may create more wastage. Thus it should be taken
under consideration.

a. Alignment of the pattern pieces according to the grain line:


b. It is also another important factor that must be considered. The warp
direction of a fabric is very much important for a garment and the grain
line indicates the warp or wale direction.
c. Requirements of cutting:
Before placing the pattern pieces on to the marker or during marker
making the cutting allowances are considered where necessary and
where is not. It may produce more wastage and may reduce the
dimensions of patterns.
d. Production planning:
Different types and sizes if garments manufacturing may on at a time
in an industry. So during marker making it should be considered.
e. Size of marker:
During marker making we have to think about the table size, length of
the fabric, etc.
f. Marker Efficiency:
The ratio between the total areas of the pattern pieces to the total area
of the maker paper is technically termed as Marker Efficiency. It is
expressed in percentage. If it is denoted by the symbol ή then –
Marker Efficiency (ή) = (Total areas of the pattern pieces/Total area of
the Marker paper)× 100

3.5.14. The factors which influence the Marker Efficiency


 Manufacturers of the marker.
 Size of pattern pieces.
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 Length of the marker.
 Pattern Engineering.
 Nature of the fabric.
 Method of marker making.
 Marker width.
 Kinds or design of garments

3.5.15. Marker collection from CAD section

Fig- 3.31 Marker collection from CAD section

3.5.16. Marker Setting

Fig- 3.32 marker setting


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3.5.17. Fabric Cutting

Fig- 3.33 Fabric Cutting

3.5.18. Methods of Fabric Cutting


Fabric cutting methods are as follows:

Manual Method:

 Scissor.
 Straight knife.
 Band knife.
 Round knife.
 Die cutting.
 Notcher.
 Drill etc.

Computerized Method:

 Straight knife cutting (GERBER Cutter).


 Water jet cutting
 Laser beam cutting, and
 Plasma torch cutting etc.

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Mainly three methods of manual cutting are used in factory

 Auto cutter machine (GERBER Cutter)


 Straight knife
 Scissor

3.5.19. Different Types of Cutting Machine


 Specification of Cutting machine

Auto cutter machine

 Number of machine :2
 Brand name : Lactra
 Model : VT-FA-Q80-88
 Origin: China

Fig- 3.34 Auto cutter machine


Straight knife cutting machine

 Machine name : K.M company cloth cutting m/c


 Model : K.M KS_AUV
 Origin : JAPAN
 Type : Heavy duty industrial cloth cutting m/c self Sharpening

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 Dimension : 8 inch width ×11 inch length ×24 inch height
 Weight : 33.5 lb
 Current : A.C (3.3/2.6 amps)
 Speeds : 3000/3600

Fig- 3.35 Straight knife cutting machine


Machine parts of Straight knife Cutting machine

 Base plate
 Terminal block
 Plug
 Clamp washer
 Pressure foot
 Blade
 Sharpener pulley
 Pulley spring
 On/off switch

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Features of Straight knife cutting machine

 Possible to cut pattern pieces directly from the fabric lays


 Could be used to cut for higher depth of fabric
 High cutting speed
 Sharp and heavy corners can be cut
 Blade could be sharpened by attaching grinding facilities.
 Blade height 10 to 33 cm.
 Blade stroke 2.5 to 4.5 cm.
 Special attachment such as sew edge or serrated edge can be provided for
heavy fabric such as canvas or denim.

Advantages of straight knife

 Comparatively cheap and can be transferred easily from one place to another.
 Higher lay of height can be cut very easily.
 Round corners can be cut more precisely then even round knife.
 Production speed is very good as up to 10 heights can be cut at a time.
 Garment components can be directly separated from fabric lays.
 Fabric can be cut from any angle.

Disadvantages of straight knife

 Sometimes deflection may occur due to the weight of the motor.


 Knife deflection is high in risk, when lay height is too high Sometimes
accident may happen.

3.5.20. Numbering
In this stage sticker is attached with all part of cutting part for shade matching. The
sticker number maintains cutting number, size number, serial number.

Striker machine: 10 pcs.

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Fig-3.36 Numbering

3.5.21. Bundling
Prepare bundling card according to fabric lay report this card maintain

 Date
 Style No
 Size Number
 Card Serial
 Quantity
 Color
 Lot Number

Feature of a bundle card

490- BE (Style No.)

C-4 (Cutting No.)

B-29 (Bundle No.)

L-29 (Large size, 29 pcs)

638-657 (20 pcs in Bundle no. 29)

FR-6985 (Front part, batch no.)

Bundling according to card no.

In this stage all number parts are bundled according to serial number.

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 Quality Check (Panel check)
 Oil spot
 Dirty spot
 Crease mark
 Needle mark
 Foreign yarn
 Slub
 Contamination
 Hole

Then same numbers of sticker are matched fold & bundled.

Cutting store

After cutting all bundles are put in the input rack then send to sewing section.

3.5.22. Machine & Equipment used in cutting section


Table- 3.8 Machine & Equipment used in cutting section

SL No. Machine & Equipment Name


01 Straight Knife Machine
02 Bend Knife Machine
03 Auto cutter machine
04 Spreading Machine
05 Drilling Machine
06 Inkjet Printers
07 Cutting Table
08 Cutting Gloves

3.5.24. Limitation of Cutting Section


1. Input problem
2. There is may be no group for any table
3. Preparing the bundle cards by writing on a piece of fabric.
4. Check, variegated rib fabric lay quantity may be excess. As a result
reject percentage may be increase.
5. Fabric spreading

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3.6. Sewing Section
The process of joining of fabrics by the use of needle and sewing thread or by other
techniques is called sewing.

Fig-3.37 Sewing Section

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3.6.1. Lay out of sewing floor

Fig-3.38 Layout of sewing floor

77
3.6.2. Flow chart of sewing section

Input from cutting

Initial inspection part


by part

Stitching with process


wise quality check

Table quality check

Size wise garments


count

Sucker machine

Sewing output

3.6.3. Element of sewing


 Sewing thread
 Needle and
 Sewing machine

3.6.4. Sewing thread


Almost all garments produced have one component in common, the sewing thread.
Whilst sewing thread is usually a relative a small percentage of the cost of garments,
it has an extremely significant influence on the appearance and durability of the
finished product, the production of sewing thread is an extensive and complex subject.

Sewing thread used in factory

 Cotton
 Flaming thread
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 Elastic thread
 Lorex thread

3.6.5. Sewing needle


A sewing needle is long slender tool with a pointed tip. The first needles were made
of bone or wood, modern ones are manufacturing from high carbon steel wire, nickel
or gold plated for corrosion resistance. The highest quality embroidery needles are
made of platinum. Needle sixe is denoted by a number on the packet. The convention
for sixing is that the length and thickness of a needle increases as the size number
decreases. For example, a size 1 needle will be thicker and longer, while a size 10 will
be shorter and finer. The action of needle has a direct effect on seam strength and
garments performances.

Function of a needle: The functions of a sewing needle are –

 To produce a hole in the material for the thread to pass through without
causing any damage to material.
 To form a loop that will be picked up by the hook of bobbin case.
 To pass the needle thread through the loop formed by the looper mechanism
on machines other than lock stitch.

Parts of a Sewing Needle


The different parts of a needle and their functions are mentioned below:
 Butt
It is the truncated conical shape at the top end of the needle which is needed to
attach the needle with needle bar or clamp.
 Shank
Shank is the upper part of the needle which locates within the needle bar. It
may be cylindrical or flat at one side.
 Shoulder
Shoulder is the section intermediate between the shank and the blade.
 Blade
It is the longest portion of the needle from the shoulder to eye. This part is
responsible for the most amount of friction between needle and fabric.

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Fig-3.39 Needle parts
 Long Groove
There is a fine slot in the needle from its shoulder to eye. The needle thread
remains at this slot when the needle penetrates the fabric and goes up and
down.
 Short Groove
Short groove is the slot on the side of the needle towards the hook or looper. It
assists in forming the loop of needle thread.
 Eye
Needle eye is a hole at the tip of the needle through which the sewing thread
passes. It prevents the sewing thread form damage during sewing.
 Scarf
Scarf or clearance cut is the portion across the whole faces of the needle just
above the eye. Its purpose is to enable a closer setting off the hook or looper to
the needle.
 Point
It provides the best penetration of material according to its nature and the
appearance that has to be produced.
 Tip:Tip is the keen extreme end of the point.

3.6.6 Sewing machine


Types of sewing machine
 Plain m/c (S/N)

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 Double needle m/c (D/N)
 Over lock m/c
 Flat lock m/c
 Button hole m/c
 Button stitch m/c
 Bar-take m/c
 Feed off the Arm
 Kanshai m/c

3.6.8. Different Sewing Machine


Name of m/c: Plain machine.
Brand name : Juki.

Origin : Japan.

Model : DDL-8300SS

Needle type : DB×1

Stitch type : Lock stitch.

Motor type : servo motor.

Rpm : 400- 4000

Fig-3.40 Plain machine.

Application:

 Main label Attach

 Belt top seem stitch

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 Belt joint stitch

 Loop tack stitch

 Pocket joint stitch

 Zipper joint

 Flap top stitch

 Flap joint

 Fly top stitch


 Front rise stitch

 Back rise stitch

Name of m/c: Overlook machine.

Brand name : Juki.

Origin : Japan.

Model : MO-6714S.

Needle type : DC×1, DC×11, DC×14.

Stitch type : Chain stitch.

Motor type : Servo motor.

Rpm : 400-8000.

FIg-3.41 Overlook machine.

Application:

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 Edge joining.

Name of m/c: Flat lock machine.

Brand name : Pegasus.

Origin : Japan.

Model : MF-7823,.

Stitch type : chain stitch.

Motor type : clutch motor.

Rpm : 2600.

Fig-3.42 Flat lock machine.


Application:
 Bottom hemming

 Sleeve hemming

 Zigzag stitch

 Loop making

83
Name of m/c: Button hole machine.

Brand name : Juki.

Origin : Japan.

Model : LBH-1790S

Needle type : DP×5

Stitch type : lock stitch.

Rpm : 400-8000

Fig-4.43 Button hole machine.

Application:

 Create button hole on the garments.

Name of m/c: Button attach machine.

Brand name : Juki.

Origin : Japan.

Model : LK-1903AN-SS.

Needle type : DP×5, DP×17.

Stitch type : lock stitch.

Rpm : 400-3600.

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Fig-3.44 Button attach machine.

Application:

 To attached button in garment.

Name of m/c: Bar-take machine

Brand name : Juki.

Origin : Japan.

Model : LBH-1790S.

Needle type : DP×5.

Stitch type : lock stitch.

Rpm : 400-2700.

Fig- 3.45 Bar-take machine

Application:

 To created bar tack stitches in garments.

85
Name of m/c: Feed off the Arm
Brand name : Juki.

Origin : Japan.

Model : W264-01GB.

Needle type : UY×11.

Stitch type : Chain stitch.

Rpm : 400-2700

Fig- 3.46 Feed off the Arm

Applications:
 Back rise stitch.

 Front rise.

 Inseam stitch.

 Back yoke top seam.

 Side top seam.

Name of m/c: KANSAI (special).

Brand name : KANSAI

Origin : Japan.

Needle : Maximum 11.

Model : FX4412P-UTC

86
Needle type : UO×128

Stitch type : Chain stitch.

Motor type : Clutch motor.

Rpm : 260

Fig- 3.47 KANSAI (special).

Application:

 Waist band top seam.

3.6.7. Thread, Needle, Looper used in different Machine


Table- 3.9 Thread, Needle, Looper used in different Machine

No Machine name Thread Needle Bobbin Looper


01 Single Needle lock Stitch 1 1 1 -
02 Single Needle chain Stitch 1 1 - 1
03 Double Needle lock Stitch 2 2 2 -
04 Double Needle chain Stitch 2 2 - 2
05 Over lock machine 3 1 - 2
06 Over lock machine 4 2 - 2
07 Over lock machine 5 2 - 3
08 Flat lock machine 2 1 1 -
09 Flat lock machine 3 2 - 1
10 Flat lock machine 4 2 - 2
11 Flat lock machine 5 2 - 3
12 Button stitch machine 1 1 1 -

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13 Button hole machine 1 1 1 -
14 Bar-take machine 1 1 1 -
15 Feed off the Arm 4 2 - 2
16 Multi thread chain stitch (Kansai) 4-32 4-32 - 4-32

3.6.9. Different types of sewing


Stitch Name: Single thread blind stitch
ISO Stitching Code number: 103 (Blind Stitch)
Use in process: Blind hem, belt loop etc.

Fig- 3.48 Single thread blind stitch Face View

Stitch Name: Lock Stitch (it is the most common stitch)

Fig- 3.49 Lock Stitch Face View

Fig- 3.50 Lock Stitch Back View


Stitch Name: Double needle Lockstitch

Fig- 3.51 Double needle Lockstitch Face View

Fig- 3.52 Double needle Lockstitch Back View


Stitch Name: ZigZag Lockstitch

Fig- 3.53 ZigZag Lockstitch Face view

Fig- 3.54 ZigZag Lockstitch Back View

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Stitch Name: Chain stitch

Fig- 3.55 Chain stitch Face View

Fig- 3.56 Chain stitch Back View


Stitch Name: 2 needle chain stitch

Fig-3.57 2 needle chain stitch Face View

Fig-3.58 2 needle stitch Back View


Stitch Name: Two needle cover stitch

Fig- 3.59 Two needle cover stitch Face View

Fig-3.60 Two needle cover stitch Back View


Stitch Name: Three needle cover stitch

Fig- 3.61 Three needle cover stitch Face View

Fig- 3.62 Three needle cover stitc Back View


Stitch Name: Three Thread Over edge

Fig-3.63 Three Thread Over edge Face View

Fig-3.64 Three Thread Over edge Back View

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3.6.10. Layout of a T-shirt:
Shoulder join

Rib tuck

Neck join

Neck piping

Size label join

Main label join

Neck top seam

Sleeve join

Sleeve hem

Sleeve tuck

Side seam

Finish tuck

Body hem

3.6.11. Layout of a polo shirt


Placket rolling

Placket join

Placket top seam

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Placket nose tuck

Shoulder

Shoulder top seam

Collar tuck

Collar join

Back tip top seam

Label top seam

Ben top seam

Placket top seam

Placket 1/60 top seam

Box

Sleeve hem

Sleeve join

Arm-hole seam

Side seam

Side bar tuck

Body gem
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Twill tape join

Twill tape top seam

Hole

Button attach

3.6.12. Work Study


Work Study is the systematic examination of the methods of carrying on activities so
as to improve the effective use of resources and to set up standards of performance for
the activities being carried out.

3.6.13. Objectives of Work Study


 Simplify or modify the operation to reduce unnecessary work.
 Increase production and productivity.
 Setting time standards.
 Reduce cost by most effective usage of inputs.
 Improvement of conditions, which involve an element of excessive fatigue or
danger.
 Improve quality.
 Evaluation of human work.

3.6.14. Basic terminology of work study


Capacity: Productive capability (output) of a plant. Machine or work centre in a
given period of time.

Created from: machine, time, space, and capital, labour

Maximum Capacity: Total hours available under normal conditions for a given
period of time

Efficiency Factor: A factor used to adjust the maximum capacity to a realistic level
of potential production capacity.

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Work Study can be best expressed in the following manner:
1. Method Study
Record to Compare
Seek best method
2. Work measurement
Time Study
Synthetics
In a crux: ―Methods are developed and rate set for each operation

3.6.15. Step Involved


 Analyze each style to determine its requirement for production.
 Style Analysis is based on: -Firm‗s quality standards -Amount of labour
required -Available equipment -Volume to be produced -Expected
―throughput time
 Style requirements are determined through analysis of samples and
specifications
 Apparel Engineers are concerned with: -Number, complexity and sequence of
Operations -Equipment Required -Time and Skill Required
 Operation Breakdown: Work in each style is broken down into operations An
operation B/down is sequential list of all the operations that involved in
assembling a garment used to establish the workflow for each style
 Apparel engineers study each operation to improve its effectiveness and
efficiency and to establish methods to ensure a consistent performance by
operators and consistent products.

3.6.16. SMV related formula


 Rating = × 100%

 Standard Rating: The pace at which a qualified worker perform a task.


(Standard Rating=100)
 S M V = Basic time + Allowances
 Basic time= Observed time × Rating
 Individual Target =

 Line Target = × manpower

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 Efficiency =

 Produced minutes = Produced quantity × SMV


 Used minutes = Manpower × Working hours × 60 min

3.6.17. Sewing Quality checking points


 Skip/Drop/Broken stitch
 Raw edge
 Size mistake
 Uneven hem
 Uneven cuff
 Uneven neck
 Uneven shoulder
 Uneven placket
 Uneven pocket
 Twisting
 Without care label
 Open tack
 Sleeve up-down
 Stripe up- down
 Open seam
 Four point up-down
 Shading etc

3.6.18. Sewing Line quality Check List


1. Buyer Approved Sample & Measurement Sheet Check.
2. Sample Wise Input Check.
3. Buyer Approved Trims Card Check.
4. Buyer Approved Sample Wise Style Check.
5. All Machine Thread Tension Check.
6. Style Wise Print & Embroidery Placement Check.
7. All Process Measurement Check.
8. All Machine Oil Spot Check.
9. All Process S.P.I Check as Per Buyer Requirement.
10. Input Time Shading, Bundle Mistake & Size Mistake Check.
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11. Buyer Approved Wise Contrast Colour Check.
12. As per Buyer Requirement Wise Styling Check.
13. All Machine Stitch Tension Balance Properly.

3.6.19. Sewing Table Quality Check List


1. Style Wise Garments Check.
2. All Process Measurement Check.
3. Front Part, Back Part, Sleeve & Thread Shading Check.
4. S.P.I check for all process.
5. Print/Embroidery Placement Check.
6. Main Label, Care Label, Size Label &Care Symbol Check.
7. Size Mistake Check.
8. All Process Alter Check.
9. Any Fabric Fault /Rejection Check.

3.6.20. Sewing Defects


 Needle damage,
 Skip stitches,
 Thread Breakages,
 Broken Stitches
 Seam Grin
 Seam Puckering
 Pleated Seam

3.6.21. Sewing problems in factory


 Input problem
 Shortage of skilled operator
 To achieved the overtime, they worked slowly
1. If any problem will create during production then
 Nobody will take the responsibility,
 Nobody will give the instant decision.
2. Sewing line production may be depends on in charge.
3. Needle hole- due to friction, needle eye is to large, mistake of needle selection.
4. Measurement problem- from cutting section
5. Seam pucker

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 Due to unequal tension of feed dog and pressure foot on two plies of
fabric.
 Due to unequal thread tension.
 Shrinkage of either fabric or sewing thread.
6. Broken stitch
 Due to tension variation between needle & bobbin thread.
 Tension of needle thread is more.
 Low quality sewing thread.
 Needle heating or hook heating.
 Sharp edge of throat plat, hook plate, bobbin cage, needle groove etc.
 Faulty fitting of bobbin cage.
 Sharp edge of bobbin cage, looper eyes and spring.
7. Skipped/ Slipped stitch
 If the timing between needle &looper or bobbin is not proper. Needle
thread loop is not picked up by bobbin thread loop when required.
 If the loop of needle becomes smaller in size, slipped stitch occurs.
 Unequal tension between sets of threads.
 Deflection or vibration of needle.
8. Variable stitch density
 If fabric cannot move forward properly due to lack of pressure of
pressure foot.
 Due to faulty feed mechanism.

3.7. Finishing Section

Finishing is the final steps of Garments processing technology. A textile products


either it is dye or printed it needs to add some finishing feathers before marketing.

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3.7.1. Finishing Lay Out
Garments wash

Loop cutting

Thread trimming

Alter checking

Stitch others

Button attach

Ironing (In side)

Inspection (inside & outside)

Batch label attach

Final ironing

Joker tag attach

Needle detector check

Size tag attach

Waist belt attach

Hanger attach

Poly packing

Cartooning

Shipment
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3.7.2. Garments Finishing
Garment finishing through wet processing is responsible for adding beauty to the
garment. Proper finishing could provide better look to the garment, change the feel of
the fabric and bring about a change to the texture of the fabric. There are various
types of finishes like peach finish, anti-microbial finish, wrinkle free finish, aroma
finish, UV guard finish, acid wash, enzyme wash, etc.

3.7.3. Process Flow Chart of Garment Finishing

Thread Suction (Thread Sucker M/c)



Ironing

Quality Check
(Sewing defect, Spot defect check)

Metal Detection

Accessories Attach
(Hang Tag, Price Tag, Hanger, Sticker, Security Alarm etc.)

QA Inspection

Folding/Rolling

Assertion

QA Supervision

Cartooning/Packaging

Ready to shipment

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3.7.4 Objects of Finishing

 To enhance the suitability of the fabric for end use.


 To improve appearance and sale appeal for comport and utility
 To give desirable qualities to the fabric like-
1. Softness
2. Lustre
3. Drape
4. Dimensional stability
5. Crease recovery
6. Soil repellence

3.7.5. Work flow in the Finishing Room


As mentioned earlier, workflow in the Finishing Department is shown here for
reference:

 Eliminate micro-dust and residual thread from the garment;


 Press/iron garments as specified by buyer or as per requirements;
 Fold the garments as required by customer;
 Fix necessary tickets (Price tickets) or tags (hang tags),etc to the garments at
this stage;
 Insert garments into poly bags;
 Divide garments as per size and color (assortment).

3.7.6. Machine Description of finishing section

Table- 3.10 Machine Description of finishing section

Machine name Number


1. Stream Iron 80
2. Thread sucker 06
3. Metal Detector 02
4. Neck press 02

99
3.7.7. Different types of Machine used
Metal detection machine:

Specification

 Brand name : OSHIMA


 Origin : China
 Model : ON-688cdII
 Motor power : 140 W

Fig- 3.65 Metal detector m/c


Thread sucker machine:

Specification

 Brand name : NiSHO


 Model : NH-TS5600A
 Origin : China

Fig- 3.66 Thread sucker m/c


100
3.7.8. Materials used in garment finishing
 Neck board
 Back board
 Collar stand
 Butterfly
 Tie placket support
 Vanishing loop
 Fit label
 M-clip
 T-clip
 Metal clip
 Cuff link
 Droop loop
 Cable tie
 Boa tie
 Full board
 Hand tag
 Tag pin
 Tissue paper
 Al pin
 Ball pin
 Elastic clip
 Hanger
 Poly bag
 Size sticker

3.7.9. Spot removing

The General Rules of Spot Removing:

1. The longer a stain remains, the tougher it is to remove.


2. Always treat a stain before laundering.
3. Blot gently — never rub; and don't ever blot with hot water

Stain Removal:
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Table- 3.11 Stain Removal
STAIN TYPE Chemical Used (Commercial Name)
1. Oil stain Spot lifter
2. General stain Thinner
3. Termeric stain MRS
4. Ink stain MR
5. Glue stain(Polymer based ) Heat gun

3.7.10. Ironing
Ironing is the use of a heated tool (an iron) to remove wrinkles from fabric. The
heating is commonly done to a temperature of 180–220 °Celsius, depending on the
fabric. Ironing works by loosening the bonds between the long-chain
polymermolecules in the fibers of the material. While the molecules are hot, the fibers
are straightened by the weight of the iron, and they hold their new shape as they cool.
Some fabrics, such as cotton, require the addition of water to loosen the
intermolecular bonds.

Fig- 3.67 Ironing M/C

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Basic Ironing Symbol

Table- 3.12 Basic Ironing Symbol

Do not iron

Cool iron (110°)

Medium iron (150°)

Hot iron (200°)

3.7.11. Garment Inspection


Flow Chart of Garment Inspection
Confirmation of Quantity

Confirmation of accessories

Size specification inspection

in side Inspection

Outside Inspection

Final Inspection

Packing

3.7.12. Trims
Trims cover all the items used in the garment except the basic fabric. There are
hundreds of items used to manufacture the garments. Proper selection of trims and its
quality are very important for styling; otherwise the garment may be rejected or
returned by the customers.
Following is a part of list that covers some names of the items:
Zipper/Fastener:
Teeth : Nylon, Vislon, Metal
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Color : Tape color, Teeth color
Size : 3, 5, 8, etc.
Length : As per requirement 18 cm, 72 cm
End : Close End (C/E), Open End (O/E)
Slider : One way, Reversible.
Sewing Thread:
 Shade, color fastness, etc.
 Tensile strength, Elasticity, Shrinkage, Moisture Regain, Abrasion Resistance,
etc.
 30s, 60s, 20/2, 40/9 Ne, etc.
Labels:
 Main label
 Size label
 Care label
 Content
 Price
 Patch, etc.
Button:
 Horn
 Metal buttons are very common in use.
Elastic:
 Cotton
 Polyester, etc.
Eyelet:
 Antique
 Matching, etc.
Velcro:
 Hook and Pile
String/Cord:
 Cotton
 Polyester, etc.
Tags:
 Price tags.
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 Hang tags, etc.
Polybag:
 Strength, Chemical mixture, Thickness (micron/mm; 1mm = 1000 micron).
Blister Bag:
 0.05 mm in thickness;
 Loaded capacity is higher than poly bag.
Carton:
 3 ply
 5 ply
 7 ply Size (L, W, and H).
Sticker:
 Hook and Pile.
Plastic Clip
Tag pin
Scotch Tape
Hanger
Gum TapeEtc.

3.8. Printing Section

Fig- 3.68 Printing Section

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3.8.1 Printing
Textile Printing is the process of applying colour to fabric in definite patterns or
designs. In properly printed fabrics the colour is bonded with the fiber, so as to resist
washing and friction. Textile printing is related to dyeing but, whereas in dyeing
proper the whole fabric is uniformly covered with one colour, in printing one or more
colours are applied to it in certain parts only, and in sharply defined patterns.

3.8.2 Printing System


Hand screen printing
I. Screen Printing
II. Automatic Flat (Revolving) screen printing

Fig- 3.69 Automatic Flat screen printing

3.8.3 Types of printing


 Screen print
 Reactive print
 Discharge print
 Pigment print
 Flock print
 Foil print
 Heat transfer print
 Hi-density print

3.8.4 Sequence of printing


Count garment parts
106

Screen preparation

Printing paste preparation

Applied garment part on the printing bed by (adhesive) gum in the marked portion

Printing the garment part by using screen

Drying the printed portion by hard dryer applying hot air flow

Curing the printed portion by passing through the conveyor dryer at 160° - 180°c

Inspection is done in qualify control department

3.8.5 Screen Preparation

Mesh fabric tight with frame



Applied chemical TXR (sensitizing emulsion) on the mesh & dried 8 min in air.

Placed design paper under the mesh.

Light passes through the design paper & mesh fabric for 3-4 min.

Remove the colored TXR from the design area by water spraying.

Curing Process:

Fig-3.70 Curing Process


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 Curing Temp:
- Pigment -160-170°c
- Rubber -150-170°c
- Discharge -200°c
- High density-180°c

3.8.6 Factors Affecting Cost of Printing


 Type of printing
 Size of printing
 Number of color of printing
 Any grading of size of printing from size to size
 Any restriction/selection of use of dyes and chemicals
 Lab test requirement
 Wash sustainability
 Tolerance in placement of print art-work
 Tolerance in color shade variation
 Place of printing

3.9. Embroidery Section


3.9.1 Embroidery
Embroidery is a decorative pattern superimposed on an existing fabric by machine
stitching using polyester, cotton or rayon threads, or hand needlework using linen,
cotton, and wool, silk, gold, or silver thread. Two types of embroidery thread
dominate the machine embroidery market: polyester and rayon. Both are continuous
filament threads with high luster and can carry bright colors.

3.9.2Embroidery Machine Specification


No. of Embroidery m/c: 5 m/c of 20 head
No of Embroidery m/c: 1m/c of 8 head
Brand: Tajima
Country: Japan
Model: TFGn-920
No. of head: 20

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No. of Needle per head: 9

Fig: 3.71 Embroidery machine

Fig: 3.72 Embroidery head

3.9.3 Embroidery stitching type


 Shirting stitch
 Tatami stitch
 Run stitch
 Motif run

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3.9.4 Embroidery Faults
 Stitch gap
 Bobbin out
 Oil spot
 Miss thread
 Measurement up-down
 Needle

3.10 Quality Section


This section Control the quality of a product. It is committed to provide adequate
resources in terms of good raw materials and trained personnel & continually improve
/ upgrade its processes and systems.

3.10.1. Quality objectives

 Overall material/product loss (Level of rejection) for the company during the
production process (in a year) shall not exceed 1.5 %
 Defects during dyeing & knitting operations to reduce by 10%.
 Process capability shall be maximized by maximizing the m/c breakdown
time.
 To ensure better work environment for the personnel working in the
organization.

3.10.2. Machines required for quality

 Wash Fastness Tester.


 Light fastness tester
 Rubbing fastness tester
 Electronic balance
 G.S.M. cutter
 Fabric inspection table
 Light box
 Shrinkage (%) meter.

3.10.3. Inspection Area

 Shade match of fabric


 Fabric diameter
110
 Wash fastness
 Light fastness
 Rubbing fastness

3.10.4. Faults Found in QC Department

Dyeing faults:

 Uneven shade
 Running shade
 In fastness property

Finishing faults:

 GSM variation
 Spirality
 Shrinkage control: Length wise

3.10.5. Quality Assurance System

Quality assurance system can be divided into following steps:

1. On line Quality assurance system and

2. Off line Quality assurance system.

Again on line Quality assurance system can be divided into the following steps:

(a) Raw material control.

(b) Process control.

3.10.6. Online Quality control


Raw material control: Meghna Knit Composite Ltd. always very concern about the
quality of the Product. So, they knit grey fabric from the best quality yarn & utilizes
technical evaluation in every stage of the production, as we know the quality product
depends on the raw material quality.

Process control: The method chosen for process must be provided with the necessary
accurate parameters. In the every stage pH should be maintained sincerely.

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3.10.7. Off line quality control:

After dyeing the material is received by the finishing section. Before receiving the
following things are checked:

1. Shade condition.

2. Wash fastness.

3. Condition of softening.

4. Condition of enzyme wash.


Before delivery the finished fabric to the customer it should be passing against the
requirements. The following tests are done-
1. GSM check.
2. Shrinkage test.
3. Shade check.
4. Rubbing test.
5. Wash fastness test.
6. Color fastness to perspiration.

3.11. Merchandising Section


Merchandising department is the star of the department among all the working
departments in the Export concern, because Merchandising is the only department
having maximum control over the departments and total responsible for Profit and
loss of the company. After LPG (Liberalization, Privatization & Globalization) the
business gets more important and now merchandising is on its hot seats. So, it is
necessary to understand the day to day happenings of the star department.
Merchandise- means goods bought and sold; and trading of goods. Merchandising- is
an activity of selling and promoting the goods.

 Merchandiser in garment industries:

In the field of marketing and services, Merchandiser is at a position of utmost


importance, He is the person who co-ordinates with various departments for a uniform
business.

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3.11.1. Objects of Merchandising
Merchandising denotes all the planned activities to execute and dispatch the
merchandise on time, taking into consideration of the 4 Rs to replenish the customer.

 Right Quantity: To dispatch right quantity of product what buyer ordered?


 Right Quality: It should be with right quality as accepted both parties.
 Right Cost: Everybody wants more from what they are paid.
 Right Time: No one wants to wait idle even in a Restaurant. Keeping delivery
schedule is mandatory.

3.11.2.Flow Chart of Garments Merchandizing


Buyer Correspondence & Meeting

Recap Preparation

Lab Dip & Yarn Dip

Sample Fabric Booking

Accessories for Sample

Initial Sample Preparation

Fitting Sample Preparation

Photo Sample with actual specification

Pre Production Sample Preparation

Bulk Accessories Booking after Buyer‗s Approval

Bulk Fabric Booking

Size Set Sample/ Trail Cutting

Production Start
113
3.11.3. Merchandising Calculation:
Fabric or Body Calculation:

= Result kg/dozen

NB:

 (BL+SL) Allowance= 10 cm. Allowance.


 When keep the chest allowance then body width, chest width and bottom
width which are big (cm) with (4 cm+) Added.
 10% overall Process Loss.
 1 dozen= 12 pcs.

Body Consumption By Marker:

 +12%

Dia Measurement

= Dia / Result

NB:

 1 inch = 2.54 cm.


 When I dia measurement then chest or bottom with (4-6 cm) allowance added.

Self or Rib Fabric Neck Dia Measurement:

= Result.

Pant / Trouser or Pajama Consumption:

 + 10 %(+)

= Result kg. / Dozen.

NB:

 L + Allowance with self-fabric waist minimum (12 cm) Allowance added.


 Without self-fabric waist minimum (8 cm) Allowance added.
114
 Allowance minimum 15 cm added with Hip or Dia.
 DIA = Hip + Allowance / 2.54

Pocket Consumption:

 Length + Width + Allowance.

NB:

 Allowance minimum 5 cm added with ( L+ W).

Carton Dimension:

= Result / SQM.
NB:
 L + W + Allowance = 6 cm.
 W + H + Allowance = 3 cm
 2 = Double part.

Button Ligner (Find out Formula):

 1 GG = 144 Dozen.
 1 GG = 1728 pcs.

 Ligner =

= Result / ligner.

NB:

 Always Button liner is plural number.


 As like 16,18,20,22,24

Yarn Booking:

 Fabric yarn (kg) + Process Loss. = Result / kg.

NB:

 Process loss keep the 10% added with total fabric.

115
Sewing Thread Consumption:

Table- 3.13 Sewing Thread Consumption

Machine Name Thread required


Plain Machine 1" for 2.75"
Over lock (3 Thread) 1" for 14"
Over lock (4 Thread) 1" for 19"
Over lock (5 Thread) 1" for 24"
Flat lock (2 Thread) 1" for 7"
Flat lock (3 Thread) 1"for 17"
Flat lock (4 Thread) 1" for 24"
Flat lock (5 Thread) 1" for 28"
Button hole, Button Attach, Bar-take 1" for 7"
Cone Quantity = per garments thread × garments qty. × qty. in cone.
Calculation Cubic Meter (Cbm):

 CBM =

= CBM / Result.

NB:

 100 cm x 100 cm x 100 cm = 1000000


 20 Feet = 28-31 CBM
 40 Feet = 56-62 CBM

Marker Consumption (Formula):

 Open Dia = ×12 + 10% (+).

= Result kg. / Dozen

 Tube Dia =

= Result kg. / Dozen

116
3.12. Effluent Treatment Plan
3.12.1 Functions of different Ingredients Used in E. T. P Plant:
Lime:Lime is used to change the colour of effluent and to increase the transparency
of water.

Ferus Sulphate: Ferus Sulphate is used for the agglomeration of the foreign matters
present in the effluent.

Poly Electrolyte: Poly Electrolyte helps to make the agglomerated materials be


gummy for easy deposition below the surface of water.

Hydrochloric Acid: Hydrochloric Acid is used to sustain the required PH of the


treated water.

Water quality of E.T.P:

Table- 3.14 Water quality of E.T.P

Parameter Permissible Concentration


BOD <50 ppm
COD <200 ppm
Color Colorless
Temperature Maximum 38® c
PH 6-9
Total Dissolved solid (TDS) <2500 ppm
Total suspended solid (TSS) <100 ppm
Dissolved oxygen (DO) 4.5-8

Capacity of ETP: 30 M3/hr.

3.13. Utilities section


 Generator
 Boiler
 Air Compressor
1. Generator:

117
An electrical generator is a machine that converts mechanical energy of power into
electrical energy or power

 Gas generator: 1030 KW


 Diesel generator: 800KW and 500 KW
2. Boiler:

Capacity: 7.8 ton

3. Air compressor:
 Screw air compressor

Capacity: 5.8 m3 /min

 Reciprocating air compressor

Capacity: 1.5 m3 /min

3.14.Compliance
3.14.1.Compliance
Compliance means conformity of certain standard. PPC maintain a moderate working
condition for their employees. Though it is well established project, there is some
lacking of proper compliance issues. Here is list of compliance in which some points
are maintained fully and some are partially-
 Compensation for holiday
 Sexual harassment policy
 Child labor abolition policy
 Anti-discrimination policy
 Zero abasement policy
 Working hour policy
 Hiring /recruitment policy
 Environment policy
 Security policy
 Buyers code of conduct
 Health and safety committee
118
 Canteen
 Equal remuneration
 National festival holiday
 Overtime register
 Labor welfare
 Weekly holiday fund
 Time care
 Accident register
 Workman register

3.14.2. Health
 Drinking water at least 4.5 L/day/employee.
 Cup availability.
 Drinking water supply.
 Water cooler, heater available in canteen.
 Drinking water signs in Bangla and English locate min. 20 feet away from
workplace.
 Drinking water vassal cleans at once in a week.
 Water reserve at least once a week.
 Water center in charge person with cleanliness.
 Suggestion box register.

3.14.3. Toilet:
 Separate toilet for women and men.
 A seat with proper privacy and lock facility.
 Effective water sewage system.
 Soap toilet.
 Water tap.
 Dust bins.
 Toilet white washed one in every four month.
 Daily cleaning log sheet.
 No-smoking signs.
 Ladies /gents toilet signs both in bangle and English.
 Deposal of wastes and effluent.

119
3.14.4. Fire:
 Sufficient fire extinguisher and active
 Access area without hindrance.
 Fire signs in both languages.
 Fire certified personal photo.
 Emergency exit.

3.14.5. Safety Guard:


 Metal glows on good conditions.
 Rubber mats & ironers.
 First aid box one.
 Ironers wearing sleepers.
 First trained employees.
 Motor/needle guard.
 Eye guard.
 Doctor.
 Medicine.
 Welfare officer.

3.14.6. Others:
 Room temperature.
 Lighting facilities.

120
Chapter- 4
Impact of internship

121
4. Impact of internship
4.1.Knitting
 We know about many type of knitting machine.

 Know about different fabrics knitting process.

 We know about different types of fabrics construction.

 We know about different types of knitting fault on grey fabric.

4.2. Dyeing and Finishing


 We know about dyeing process of different fabrics.
 Know about chemicals and their function.
 We know about dyeing and finishing machine.

4.3. Sample development


 We know what type of sample produced here

 System of sample approval

 We know what type of machine here

4.4 CAD Section


 Know about working procedure of CAD

 We know about marker making process

 Know about different allowance.

4.5. Cutting
 We know about cutting fabric

 We know about method of cutting

 Defect of cutting section

 How to remove fabric wastage

4.6. Sewing
 We know about many type of sewing machine

 We know about function of sewing machine

 We know about sewing fault and their remedies


122
 We know about total production of this section

4.7. Finishing
 We know about total production of these garments.

 To know about Trims and Accessories.

 To know about how to quality assurance.

4.8. Printing
 We know about different types of printing process.
 Printing fault, causes and remedies.

4.9. Embroidery
 We know the types of embroidery stitches.
 Embroidery machineries.

4.10. Quality
 We gather knowledge about Quality Control system.
 We know about garments inspection procedure

4.11. Merchandising
 We know the activities of merchandising.
 How they follow up production.
 Different consumption formula.

4.12. ETP
 We know about Effluent Treatment Plant
 Know about function of different Ingredients Used in E. T. P

4.13. Utilities
 We know about Boiler
 Know about air compressor
 Know about generator

4.14. Compliance
 To know about their compliance system
 We know about medical facilities

123
Chapter-5
Conclution

5. Conclusion
Industrial attachment program send us to the expected destiny of practical life.
Through The completion of Two Month industrial attachment at MEGHNAKNIT
124
COMOSITELtd, we have got the impression that the factory is one of the most knit
dyeing projects in Bangladesh. Though it was established in 2006, it has earned very
good reputation for its best performance over any other knit dyeing project. During
our industrial attachment program we had tried to our best to do our duty. Our
supervising officer also satisfied to us & offer co-operation in every steps. It is
completely a new experience in our life, which will be very effective in our service
life. During our training period we realized that practical experience is valuable for
service life.

125

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