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January − March 2019

Branding
Bihari Flavours
2 | Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019
Content
January - March 2019

SAUV Publication 5

SAUV Publication 23

Sonali Kumar 9

SAUV Publication 27

SAUV Publication 13

SAUV Publication 19 SAUV Publication 31


Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019 | 3
WORDS FROM BIHAR FOUNDATION

In this seventh edition of Bihar Foundation’s quarterly


magazine - Man-Main-Bihar - we, as distinct from earlier six issues
that centered on literature, language, arts, crafts, performing arts,
Bollywood in that order, focus on the branding of Bihar through
cuisine. To reiterate, the underlying thread in all issues hitherto
has been destination branding and soft power positioning of Bihar.
Our endeavor in this issue is to bring out the nuances of Bihari
cuisine, as it evolved from Vedic period to the periods spanning
Mauryans, Guptas, Turks, Afghans, and British. The resultant rich
spectrum of vegetarian and non-vegetarian Bihari cuisines has
been detailed in the issue, without any claim of being exhaustive.
Every non-resident Bihari yearn for a regular supply of
Tripurari Sharan (CEO, Bihar Foundation)
cuisines from his native land; they are constantly on look out for
food joints, which are hygienic, reasonably priced, authentic and
of all serve not just Litti-Chokha; In the first chapter itself, an
attempt has been made to facilitate readers imagination beyond
Litti Chokha. The story of non-vegetarian food, snacks, and sweets
are equally exciting. A personal account of a lady IAS officer
turned cookbook expert in this issue may turn you nostalgic. Our
experience of handling social media to reach out to non-resident
www.biharfoundation.in
Bihari made us realize how food evokes the greatest emotional
response among all other subjects and therefore tops as a binding
Editor.in.Chief: Tripurari Sharan force.
Managing Editor: Uday Sahay
In general, we must confess that the readers’ response to the
Editor: Dr. Gopa Nayak

Associate Editor: Avinash Prabhakar


last six issues has been overwhelming, to say the least. Several
Project Supervisor: Ravindra Prasad (OSD, Bihar Foundation)
senior-most officials of Bihar government and influential Biharis
Editorial Coordinator: Vikash Sarkar (Bihar Foundation)
in Delhi and other parts of the country have placed demands on us
Honorary Editorial Advisers: Alakh Sharma,
for hard copies of the magazine. We have our digital footprints in
Aku Srivastava, Naleen Kumar Japan, Australia, America, Singapore, and Middle East countries
Deputy Editors: Sharanya Sahay among others abroad. Each time the issue of the magazine was
Production & Design Head: Sanjeev Kumar released on WhatsApp, it went viral and organically spread its
Brand Consultant: Aranya Sahay reach like wild fire through digital sharing.
Design Consultant: Kuldeep Kumar
You would recall that Bihar Foundation has taken 3 giant
Photo Consultant: Manish Kumar
steps in the last two years or so to reach out to the migrant Biharis:
E.Partner: DMACHS Technologies
it undertook the digital route through Facebook, Twitter, and
Legal Consultant: Abhishek Rai

Digital Consultant: Surendra Kumar


YouTube channel to expand its outreach. It embedded a monthly
Cover Picture Artiste: Anirban Bora
e-newsletter on Bihar Foundation’s website, and most importantly
it decided to document the soft power of Bihar – its language,
art, music, painting, food, and heritage among other culturally
binding constituents - in the form of a magazine that you have
before you right now. All these three steps, it is hoped, would help
all non-resident Biharis to become brand ambassadors of Bihar,
Disclaimer
The views expressed in various articles are those of the no matter which part of the globe they are in.
authors’ and not necessarily represent the views of Bihar
Foundation. Maps and flags used in the articles are
only indicative. They don’t reflect the political map or
legal representation of the flag of India or any other
country.Bihar Foundation does not own responsibility
regarding the contents of the advertisements.
Tripurari Sharan, IAS
Bihari Cuisine Beyond
Litti-Chokha SAUV Publication

In the last two decades

I
ndia is a multi-cuisine Bihari dish, tracing its origin to cattle
however, the rich and nation where every state rearing section of society in Bihar
diverse food-culture offers something unique wherein it was baked on cowdung cake
for food connoisseurs. for few hours and, when fully baked,
of Bihar has been The uniqueness originates out of the dipped in abundantly found ghee in
reduced to Litti- climate, natural habitat, society and such households. It was a healthy and
Chokha only, and culture of the state. Bihar economy simple food – made of wheat flour
not much has been being primarily agricultural and the and crushed dry gram - that lasted for
fact that it is embedded in a highly few hours before full digestion. It was
spoken about other fertile indo-gangetic belt, its food so popular in the Bhojpuri speaking
dishes on the palette habits and cuisines have derived rural belt that hordes of the first
that the state offers. their character and flavor accordingly. generation Girmitia migrants carried
the dish with them to Carribean
While Litti-Chokha A diverse and rich menu flows as a
countries, Fizi, Mauritius etc, and
corollary, with its urban and rural
indeed is an authentic variations. then to Calcutta, and other parts of
Bihari dish, tracing its India as second wave of migration. In
In the last two decades however, course of time the dish found political
origin to cattle rearing the rich and diverse food-culture patronage and its popularity had a
section of society in of Bihar has been reduced to Litti- multiplier effect through social media
Bihar wherein it was Chokha only, and not much has been as well. The story of the food habits
baked on cowdung spoken about other dishes on the and cuisines in the urban centres of
palette that the state offers. While Bihar was different, but we will come
cake . Litti-Chokha indeed is an authentic to that a little later in the issue.
Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019 | 5
Bihari Cuisine Beyond Litti-Chokha

was vegetarian or non-vegetarian.


Hiuen Tsang Chinese monk who
traveled to India during seventh
century, was served a bowl of Patna
rice called Mahasali. He described it
thus: “Grain was as large as a bean,
and when cooked, was aromatic, and
shining like no other rice.” Mughal
chronicler AbulFazal has described
the rice cultivated in Patna as ‘even if
one grain of each variety was taken, it
would fill a large vase.’
Centuries-old journey of
Bihari cuisines flourished under
many empires and kept acquiring
its distinct flavor through a process
of assimilation. From Mauryan
Empire and Gupta’s golden era to the
advent of Turks, Afghans, Mughals
and European, Bihari cuisines have
imbibed the best from the kitchen of
these regimes while retaining their
traditional intrinsic food values. With
Bihar becoming the fulcrum of Sufi
To begin with, it is important tradition, the flavor and character of
to know that Bihar, located in rice Bihari cuisines got further nuanced.
belt, has been primarily a rice eating The typical example is Biryani, a non-
state cutting across its communities, vegetarian delight from Mughalai
which has many archeological cuisine, which acquired with regional
references. Archeological evidence variation to become vegetarian
suggests that the farming practices Biryani. In case of Kebab, Bihar
in Harappan civilization spread developed its own variation of Seekh
over to the Gangetic basin in Doab Kebab which is a gastronomic delight
region – at the confluence of rivers for non-vegetarians in Bihar. Patna
Ganga and Yamuna -which in course Kebab of Patna city, Kebabs sold in a
of time started growing multiple roadside boutique hotel in Machhua
varieties of paddy, some of which was Toli of Patna, and Champaran meat of
of high quality. In her well-known Motihari are representative samples
with milk and honey. The Jataka
book ‘Feasts and Fasts: A history of
refers to Puva- a mixture of pounded
Food in India’, Colleen Taylor Sen
rice, milk, sugar, ghee and honey,
talks about this fertile land, the
Pitha (rice cake) and Khajja for his
existence of barley, wheat, rice and
diet. However, the opinions regarding
its contribution to help build the new
restrictions on the eating meat in
community. The essential ingredients
Buddhism vary among sects. Japanese
of Bihari cuisines like ghee, rice, and
Buddhist sects generally believe that
milk find mention even in Vedas of
Buddha ate meat, but the Mahayana
Indo-Aryan era.
sect followers reject the proposition
The rise of Buddhism and Jainism outright. The last meal offered to
gave rise to the tradition of vegetarian Buddha by Chunda, a blacksmith
culture in Bihar. Gautam Buddha’s was a dish called Sukaramaddava
routine diet contained rice cooked and it is still not settled whether it

6 | Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019


of what exotic result fusion can bring day called breakfast (nasta), lunch
about. In vegetarian dish, Khichri (Khana) and dinner (bhojan). Mithila
is credited to have its origin in the is marked for its distinct preference
kitchen of Mughal ruler Jehangir, for rice, fish, curd, and Paan. Magadh
while Britishers also have added a region is known for its love for
wide assortment of dishes such as Sattu and its Parantha variation; its
tea, soups and salads to the Bihari privileged menu included assorted
food menu, especially in its urban sweets like Tilkut, Khaja, Khoye Ka
pockets. Civilizational contacts Lai, may be because the region was
were more pronounced in urban the core of one of the most prosperous
areas and therefore the fusion empires of the world for more
is more visible in such areas. In than thousand years. The Bhojpur
general, the influence travelled from region’s cuisine uniqueness lie in
urban to rural, with the exception of Litti-Chokha. Bhat-Daal-Chokha-
Litti Chokha where we find influence Tarkari remains constant variables
taking a reverse course. throughout the state however. The
Linguistically, Bihar can be distinct food pattern of each region is
divided in 3 zones – Mithili, Magahi, detailed below.
and Bhojpuri region. Each linguistic
zone has distinct food-habit that is
Of Mithila
characterized by diverse ecology and The staple foods of Mithila
indigenous culture, passed on since region are mainly rice, wheat, milk,
generations. However, the common curd,green and leafy vegetables. The
eating patterns include 3 meals a most influential community of the
Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019 | 7
Bihari Cuisine Beyond Litti-Chokha

Tilkut (Gaya), Maner-Ka-Laddoo


(Maner) and KhoyeKa Lai (Nawada)
have their origin in Magadh region.

Food-habit of Bhojpur
region
Rice ranks top among staple food
for the natives of Bhojpur region.
Litti-chokha, tagged as the trademark-
food of Bihar, is indigenous to this
region. Breakfast in the region is roti-
based and includes whole wheat or
refined wheat flour like roti, parathas,
region is of Brahmins who love eating should relish these on earth only, not stuffed parathas and are paired with
Chura-dahi (beaten rice and curd) to regret later. Pan is a sweet betel leaf sabzi and dahi. In lunch, they follow
with a pinch of salt or sugar and achaar that is taken after the meal. the same pattern of bhat-dal-tarkari-
in their breakfast. Mithila’s afternoon achar and dahi. Their dinner is also
meal majorly includes rice, combined Of Magadh roti based and is consumed with sabji.
with pulses and vegetables, called Litti, grilled over charcoal or baked
Among the grains consumed on cowdung, also figures prominently
Bhat-dal-tarkari and accompanied by in this region, rice ranks the first,
the locally made pickle (achar) and in their dinner. At some places, drinks
curd (dahi). Maithils are very fond are prepared using sattu,
salt and chili in summer.
of milk or milk based dishes in every
It makes for a refreshing
meal. In dinner, they love to have roti
breakfast.Litti is paired
and sabji with vegetables and curd.
with chokha(smashed
Two important accompaniment of
boiled vegetables). Bhojpuri
Mithila’s cuisine are dahi and machh peoples enjoy eating
(curd and fish). Unlike the Brahmin both vegetarian and non-
community of another state, Maithil vegetarian dishes. Daal,
Brahmins are mostly non-vegetarian. sabji (green vegetables),
Among non-vegetarian dishes, fish- saag (leafy vegetables), and
curry - called Machh-Bhat locally followed by wheat, Marua, and maize. in non-vegetarian food jhinga (prawns),
- is their top favourite. Considering Ghatta, sattu and khichdi are the most Machh (fish) and maans (mutton) are
variety preference wise, Rohu fish common dishes in Magahi region. major constituents of the regular diet of
is favourite among Maithils, others Among the main diets, Magahi people this region.
being Marramachh, Naini, Silwar, enjoy Bhat (rice) and Roti (bread), and
Bhat is supplemented with dal and Bihari food, no doubt, has
Singhi and Bhakur fish. Maithils
roti with sabji. The subsidiary meal enriched its presence in metro
however also enjoy mutton in non-
cities in last some years. The age
vegetarian menu. In Mithila, there of the region includes bhunja, puri,
of digitalization has pushed Bihari
is a rich tradition of non-vegetarian kachauri, and sattuparatha. Sattu is
cuisine beyond the state, but the
preparation on several festive an essential part of Magahi kitchen.
absence of restaurant networks
occasions. Holi in Mithila is not Parantha stuffed with massalasattu serving Bihari food could easily be
considered complete without Maans is also common in dinner in the felt in the cities outside Bihar. Litti-
and Bhat (mutton and rice). The region. Irrespective of the linguistic Chokha has been tagged as the
description of Mithila cuisine would zone of the state, Saag is the common common diet system of the state
be incomplete without the mention food items in Bihari cuisine. Magahi whereas this dish forms only a small
of Machh, Makhan and Pan (fish, fox people also enjoy a wide variety of part of Bihari cuisine. It is high time
nut and betel leaves). The saying goes Saag. Fish and meat are the principal that people stretch their imagination
that Paan, Machh and Makhan are items of non-vegetarian food. Major beyond Litti-Chokha to understand
not found even in the heaven, so one sweets of Bihar such as Khaja (Silao), Bihari cuisine. n
8 | Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019
An IAS Officer’s
Toor Dal, or ArharDal
as it called in Bihar, is
also popular in many

Taste Of
regions of India. In
South India, it is turned
into Sambhar, which

Bihari Home
is so popular that it is
served for all three meals
—breakfast, lunch, and

Cuisine
dinner. In Gujrat, use of
chillies in the preparation
of the same dal is often
tempered with sugar.
Sonali Kumar

A
Friend of mine from But coming back to food, I’m also reflects the simplicity and the
Kashmir looked at me grateful that my Bihari heritage had humility/moderation which is such
quizzically when she drilled into me the mantra that if an integral part of the Bihari people.
heard I was writing about you want to be healthy, just focus That’s why you find that the spices or
Bihari Cuisine. She knew my recipes on what you eat. The ability to cook the quantity of oil/ghee used therein
were converted into 10 cookbooks, has otherwise fascinated me as never drown the taste of ingredients
some of which were international God’s greatest gift to mankind, one or overwhelm your taste buds.
bestsellers. But Bihari cuisine? Huh?! that distinguishes us instantly from
But let me explain this further.
What’s that? animals. I have also felt grateful for
Toor Dal, or Arhar Dal as it called
the opportunity to travel around
“Is it not that Litti Chokha thing?” in Bihar, is also popular in many
the world, to taste world cuisine,
She finally blurted out, hesitatingly. regions of India. In South India, it
and to appreciate why all cuisines
is turned into Sambhar, which is so
I smiled because while she was reflect the culture of the place they
popular that it is served for all three
going gaga over my home food, little come from and the ingredients that
meals —breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
did she realise that they were all, are locally available. So, while olive
Sambhar is spicy no doubt but what
intrinsically Bihari recipes, of course, oil is an important ingredient in
distinguishes it is the liberal use of
with a little modern twist. Mediterranean cuisine, because olives
tamarind and curry leaves. In Gujrat,
Yes, I am proud to be born on grow everywhere in that region, we
use of chillies in the preparation of
the banks of the river Ganga as a will be falling prey to some clever
the same dal is often tempered with
true-blooded Bihari. I’m also proud marketing spin if we accept that olive
sugar and lemon juice. However, go to
to have done all my schooling from oil is superior to, say, our mustard oil.
Maharashtra and you will find them
Patna, where after I moved to Delhi In that little backdrop, I need preferring a less sweet version of the
for college and made it to the IAS. to assert that the Bihari cuisine same Toor Dal.
Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019 | 9
10 | Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019
An IAS Officer's Taste of Bihari Home Cuisine

But when we come to Bihar, the marinated in an onion-garlic-ginger you handle hot Khichdi. Chandra
Toor Dal is cooked with just salt and paste along with other spices, mustard Gupta did that, and the rest is history.
turmeric with sometimes tomatoes oil, and curd. Traditionally it was then This shows how much Khichdi has
added to it. It is then tempered with cooked on a slow fire. The addition been integral to our culture.
desighee and cumin and garnished of desighee, fried onions, whole
Khichdi literally means a
with fresh coriander leaves. So simple cardamom, cloves, and cinnamon
mixture. In some form or another,
and yet so delicious! And this is not adds to its deliciousness.
this is almost compulsorily prepared
just my Bihari bias speaking but the
numerous international reviews Khichdi (MixtureDish of for the festival of Makar Sakranti that
is celebrated all over India and Nepal.
that attest to the same sentiments Rice, Lentil and Veggies) This festival is also known as Pongal
wherever my Toor Dal recipe has
been featured. Another complete meal in Tamil Nadu, Bihu in Assam, Lohri
that Biharis like to eat especially in Punjab or Uttarayan in Gujarat.
The non-vegetarian on Saturdays is Khichdi. This is Interestingly, this is one of the
tradition of Bihar something we have been eating for few Hindu festivals that falls on the
centuries. The story goes that when fixed day of 14 January, when the Sun
Half the population of Bihar is Chandra Gupta Maurya was finding it moves from the Tropic of Capricorn
vegetarian but the other half that is difficult to defeat Dhananada, the king to the Tropic of Cancer heralding the
non-vegetarian cooks some of the of Magadh, he had once taken shelter
arrival of spring and the beginning of
best fish-fowl-mutton dishes I have in a house where he was served hot
the harvest season.
ever tasted. The Bihari kebabs are a Khichdi. A hungry Chandra Gupta
little different from the kebabs made put his hand in the middle of the dish It is believed that on this day,
elsewhere. The distinct flavour, I and scalded himself. The lady of the Lord Surya (the Sun God) visits the
believe, comes from the unique use house rebuked him and said that he house of his son Shani (Saturn),
of mustard oil for marination. For was behaving like an idiot Chandra who is the lord of the Makar Rashi
the curry dish too, the mutton, which Gupta who was always attacking the (Capricorn) and the controller of
comes from young goats (and not centre and losing. Instead, he should the quantum of misfortune befalling
lamb, which Biharis don’t like), is first start nibbling from the sides, just as humans. To appease Shani, therefore,

Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019 | 11


An IAS Officer's Taste of Bihari Home Cuisine

many Indians prefer cooking Khichdi dried curd was another invention that Recently watching Gordon Ramsay
on Saturdays which is also known as mixed with chiura (flattened rice) make his version of the scrambled egg
Shaniwaror the day of Lord Shani. could fill anyone up on-the-go easily. surprised me because it was so similar
So, Greek Yoghurt which has caught to my home-style recipe. And yes, the
Khichdi is otherwise the
the imagination of the world is the best caramel custard is still made in
most nutritionally complete dish,
normal dahi that is eaten in almost Bihar.
consisting of carbs from rice, proteins
any household in Bihar. Now, the
from lentils and vitamins from Sadly, what I have been noticing
question is: did the Greek learn it from
veggies. Also, it is quite a JIFFY dish. is that our cuisine is getting forgotten
us, from the time of Chandra Gupta
even in Bihar. In a recent wedding,
Other interesting aspects Maurya who married the daughter of
I found a heavy influx of other so-
the Greek General Seleucus, or did
of Bihari cuisines they teach us?
called popular cuisine including
Punjabi and Chinese. Gone were the
A very interesting fact about Debatable? Let’s take up another days when during weddings, we sat
Bihari cuisine is that families mostly dish then. In Turkey, I was once eating on pattals (leaf plates) the best
eat at home or in the homes of their surprised to be served a “salad” Pooris, ChannaDal, Parwal, Kathal,
relatives and friends, though dining of cucumber, tomato, onion, and and other delicacies. Made me almost
out is increasingly catching up in coriander, all chopped up in bite- home food sick.
cities at least. Eating out in restaurants size pieces, and flavoured with lemon
Let us Biharis then resolve to put
was not very popular, at least when I juice and salt. Hey, this was the salad
our lovely food back on the pedestal it
was growing up in Patna. Perhaps my mom made at home. And this is
truly deserves.n
that is why typical Bihari dishes are very different from the leafy lettuce-
not easily available outside people’s filled salad that the Europeans make.
homes. So, did the Turks (or rather the Greeks
Bihar’s rich martial history who inhabited Turkey in the days of (Sonali Kumar is a retired IAS officer, of
Troy) took the recipe from us or vice the 1979 batch of the Jammu and Kashmir
dating back centuries too has had Cadre. Cooking is her hobby, which she has
a strong influence on its cuisine. versa?
tried to share through ten cookbooks that
Sattu and Litti-Chokha attest to that Even the British who ruled us she has co-authored with her son Prasenjeet
wandering tradition. Carrying hung- left their impact on some dishes. Kumar)

12 | Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019


Historical Journey of

SAUV Publication

I
nternational influence standardization, poor packaging, no across the world, including food
of Italian, Chinese, marketing and branding are some of and cuisines. The Maurya period
Thai, and Japanese the attributable reasons for lack of our watched by Greeks, the Gupta
cuisines are shaping the marked presence in food industry, dynasties, Afghans, Turks, Moghals,
culinary taste of metro Indians but the silver lining is the great and finally the Britishers – all left
on the one hand, and Mughlai- civilizational continuity that Bihar their gastronomic foot-prints on the
cum-Punjabi food, Bengali cuisines, has been been blessed with and it is land and the people. The hallmark of
South Indian delights, or even time that we peep into it. Bihari cuisine is that it has stood the
Kashmiri and North Eastern food test of time and has imbibed the best
preparations dotting food plazas in The culinary history of Bihar
can be traced back to the days of from the cuisines of rulers that once
malls are overshadowing our urban ruled the land.
food preferences on the other. In wonder that was Pataliputra, which
the race, the Litti-Chokha of Bihar was New York of the world for over Season-based food is another
has emerged as the top street food 1000 years. A highly sophisticated speciality of Bihari cuisine that
brand from Bihar, but Bihari cuisine urban centre that it emerged as and includes the changing food-pattern of
is yet to mark its presence in the sustained for centuries brought in Biharis in every season. Bihari thaali
fine dining category so far. Lack of the best of cultural influences from changes as per the season, however

Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019 | 13


14 | Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019
Historical Journey of Bihari Flavours

2. Gaya’s Anarsa and Khoye-


Ka-Lai: The land of salvation- Gaya
– is also famous for a special type of
Khoya based sweet called Anarsa.
This sweet dish is made of powdered
rice, sesame seed, Khoya and jaggery
or sugar. The dessert is made in two
shapes–thin disk and spherical. Sesame
seeds are finally embedded on this
sweet that serves as toppings. Khoye-ka-
Lai similarly is a mouth watering sweet,
sold in Dhanarua on Patna-Gaya road.
3. Tilkut of Gaya: Tilkut is the
most popular sweet snack of Bihar
during winter. But, tilkut of Gaya
region is quite famous as this sweet
originated here. Sesame seeds are
chawal and roti occupy the prominent The hallmark of Bihari poured in thick sugar syrup and
places. Even roti (bread) has several cuisine is that it has stood mixed till the mixture turns hard.
variations in Bihari kitchen; Bihari
uses wheat-flour for roti in summer the test of time and has The mixture is then shaped into a
and rice-flour in winter. Maalpua imbibed the best from the spherical shape and served. These
sweet flavoured round balls are
adds flavour to the kitchen in summer cuisines of rulers that once made up of Lai which is known as
while dal-pittha and dalpuri brings ruled the state like Turks, Raamdaana in Bihar.
aroma to the kitchen in winter. In Afghan, Mughals and of 4. Balushahi of Navada: Balushahi
dessert menu, Bihar has several
mouth-watering sweet dishes to its
late Europran culture. is a traditional dessert of Indian
credit. Some regions of the state Another speciality of Bihari subcontinent which is known across
have produced unique dishes which cuisine is whether-centric the nation. In south India, this sweet
are known with their places of or season-based food. is known as Badushah. Navada
district of Bihar is famous for its melt-
origin like Maner Ka Laddu, Silao Bihari thaali changes as in-mouth Balushahi. The sweet is
Ka Khaja etc. per the season, however filled with mildly sweetened khoya and
Here is a list of some highly Chawal and Roti occupy spices like cardamom and cinnamon
popular and preferred sweets, snacks, the prominent places. and is deep-fried in desi ghee.
and dishes from Bihar that makes
Bihari cuisine bouquet much sought
after. These are the preferred items
unique to Bihar, some of which
require to be carefully selected for
standardization, packaging, branding,
and marketing.
1. Khaja of Silao: Khaja, a
unique sweet dish of Bihar, is said to
have been originated in Silao area of
Nalanda region. Khaja is said to have
been named by the Lord Buddha
while he was served this dessert.
The batter is prepared from wheat
flour, Mawa and oil. It is then deep
fried until crisped and thereafter it is
soaked in sugar syrup.

Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019 | 15


Historical Journey of Bihari Flavours

5. Laddu of Maner: The land of from maida, sugar and vegetable served to late Prime Minister of India.
Sufi saints Makhdoom Yahya Maneri oil, known for its sweet aroma since Once former Prime Minister Rajeev
and Makhdoom Shah Daulat - known pre-independence era. This unique Gandhi was on election campaign in
as Bari Dargah (the great shrine) and Bihari dessert has the privilege to be the city and was offered this dessert.
Chhoti Dargah (the small shrine) Late Prime Minister was so impressed
- lies 24 km west of Patna and is with the lip-smacking taste of Mirjai
famous for Motichur ka Laddu. Once that he ordered to send for the second
emperor Babur halted here with his installment from Delhi.
convoy for one night and was served 7. Katarni Chura: Bihar has a
Laddu as dessert in dinner. His tradition of having Chura-Dahi on
applause for this fine-shaped sweet Makar Sankranti. Bhagalpur region of
dish made the Laddu famous in the the state produces famous aromatic
region. The locals say that as the city Katarni rice which is famous not only
is situated on the confluence of Ganga in the state but also outside. Chura,
and Son rivers, water of this region beaten rice, made of Katarni rice is
gets sweeten naturally which makes famous for its aroma, which is unique
the laddu special. and lip smacking.
6. Mirjai of Fatuha: Fatuha lies 8. Litti Chokha of Bhojpur
24 km east of Patna and is situated region: This popular snack is native to
on confluence of two rivers–Ganga Bhojpur region of the state. This staple
and Punpun. The city is known for its food rose to prominence, as it needs
unique sweet dishes Mirjai prepared very less amount of water and could

16 | Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019


Historical Journey of Bihari Flavours

be baked without using any utensils. Handi meat has gained the fame for earthen pot on mild heated charcoal.
Another important characteristic is its unique method of cooking and Also, the pot is sealed with wet flour
that it could stay fresh for as long as its vital ingredients. A wholesome after putting the mixture inside.
two to three days. Popular actor Amir mixture of mutton, onion, grind
11. Mithila’s pride: Last but not
Khan and Hollywood actress Mandy spices and important ingredients
Moore have admired this mouth- with mustered oil are placed into the least is Mithila region of the state
watering evening snack of Bihar. which has a saying that pan, maach
and makhan (betel leaves, fish
9. Patna ka seek-kebab: Bihar is
and fox nut) is not found even in
equally famous for its luscious non-
the heaven, so one should enjoy
vegetarian delights. Bihari flavour
these on earth only, not to regret
of non-vegetarian cooking finds
later. Maach-jhor (fish curry)
mention in the memoirs of Maulana
Abul Kalam Azad. Patna’s famous prepared with mustard powder,
Mutton Kebabs have an equally rich onion and garlic is a gastronomic
and historical origin. The aroma of delight for non-vegetarian. Mithila
Mehngu’s Mutton Kebab in Machhua produces traditionally these three
Toli area in Patna is a spicy delight items machh, makhan and pan.
for non vegetarians. His Great Several verities of fish are found
Grandfather was a chef in the British in abundance in Mithila. Pan is
court. a sweet betel leaf flavoured with
cardamom, clove, rose petals,
10. Champaran ki Handi Meat: sugar crystal etc. and is taken after
The region of Champaran is famous the meal. n
for a mutton grilled dish called Taash.

Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019 | 17


Historical Journey of Bihari Flavours

18 | Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019


Vegetarian
Dishes of Bihar
SAUV Publication

Being home to all major religions like Hindus, Jains, Sikhs, Christians
and Muslims, an affinity towards vegetarian culture and meal is natural
among Biharis. Major populations of Bihar are involved in food-
production and its consumption. Bihar is, geographically, endowed
with fertile alluvial soil with abundant water resources which makes the
agriculture of Bihar rich and diverse.

T
he land of Buddha’s – However, the annual flood crisis Khatai and Aamot throughout the
Bihar - has many unique has led people to develop a unique year in Bihar. Such natural preservative
dishes in its vegetarian traditional practice of preserving practices for making the item eatable
menu to offer to visitors. foods and vegetables in different ways in all seasons make Bihari kitchen
The food habits in Bihar are largely for long, and that some vegetable unique. Adouri, Chanouri, Danouri
influenced by cross-civilizational food items unique in terms of its shelf and Tisouri are some local relish which
and religious diversity of the state. life. The practice of making vegetables figure prominently in vegetarian Bihari
Majority populations in Bihar are still like cauliflower, and mangoes in both dishes round the year.
involved in agricultural-production forms - raw and ripe - eatable for People in Bihar are in the habit
since Bihar is geographically endowed long through drying up in sunlight of taking specific foods items in
with fertile alluvial soil with abundant is unique to Bihar. Besides enjoying morning called nasta (breakfast), in
water resources, which help making ripe mangoes in its natural form, it afternoon called khana (lunch) and
its agriculture rich and diverse. is consumed in other forms such as at night named bhojan (dinner). Let’s
Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019 | 19
Vegetarian Dishes of Bihar

take a quick round up to get the feel of spices like panchforna. Khichdi tastes masala to make a creamy kadhi (gravy)
the famous Bihari vegetarian dishes. superb with dahi (curd), Papad, ghee and besan (gram flour) dumplings.
and achar – called 4 thick pals of This mouth-watering Kadhi-badi-
Dal-Bhat: The main ingredient
Khichadi. “Dahi-Papad-Ghee-Aachar bhat has obtained propitious status
of Bihari lunch is dal-bhat (rice and – Khichdi-Ke-Chaar-Yaar. Though
pulse). A traditional lunch thali looks as is cooked on every auspicious
khichdi is favourite throughout the occasion and whenever a guest visits.
like glistening dal-bhat, which is northern India, Bihar has its own
basically pulse and rice, mildly spiced variation to make one craving. Chura-Dahi: A healthier option
Aloo-ki-Bhujia cooked in mustard Khichadi has few variations; it could for breakfast and lunch in Bihar, this
oil and achar. The fertile land of be watery, or pasty, or even dry. dish involves no cooking. Chura-
Bihar produces several Dahi (Beaten rice and
varieties of pulses that curd) is an essential-
add specific aroma to to-have meal on Makar
Bihari lunch (Khana). Sankrati. Dahi, being
The minimum menu in considered auspicious,
the plate are steamed has a permanent place
rice (Bhat) and cooked in Bihari kitchen.
lentil soup (Dal), served Chura (Beaten rice) in
with seasonal vegetables its several forms is the
called tarkari in Bihar popular evening snack
in lunch. You can go on of the state. Chura-Dahi
adding supplementary is served with seasonal
menus, depending on vegetables and a pinch
your resources and time. of sugar or jiggery in
Bihar. Tilkut addition
Khichdi: Recently-
completes the circle.
earned title of national
dish, Khichdi is widely Sattu-Paratha:
consumed meal of Bihar. The state has Though, the name -
Khichadi is a must-eat item on Makar-
a traditional practice of having Khichdi Sattu- was outlandish to non-Biharis
Shakranti, when it is accompanied by
on every Saturday since the belief is few decades back; it has gained
Chura-Dahi-Tilkut.
that its consumption on Saturday currency for its nutrition values now.
keeps the bad influence of Saturn at Kadhi-Badi-Bhat: Another Protein-rich Sattu is used in regional
bay. A combination of Chawal-Dal, culinary formulation of Bihari cuisine in varying degrees. Sattu
pressure-cooked altogether for 4 to cuisine is Kadhi-Badi-Bhat. Badi is a when mixed with salt and water is a
5 whistles using Bihari household traditional blend of yogurt in spice great morning drink, and it becomes

20 | Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019


Vegetarian Dishes of Bihar

substitute for vegetable when used bhat-dal-chokha is a most-loved meal bhujiya is simple and easy-to-cook
as Bharta in semi-solid form. Sattu for those who do not want to spend dish and requires common ingredient
Paratha is the most common breakfast time in kitchen like bachelors. The available in kitchen pantry without
and dinner in Bihar. Paratha is made tempting aaloo-chokha is prepared involving any complex cooking
with stuffing spiced Sattu in wheat by mashing the boiled potato and process. Chopped potatoes mixed
dough balls and is rolled and cooked adding spices with raw onions, with turmeric power and cumin seed,
with ghee. Sattu paratha is served with garlicand mustard oil which helps season with salt, is cooked till it turns
mango pickles and baigan-bharta, or create the authentic flavours of Bihar. red and crispy.
with curd or watery vegetables. Aaloo-chokha could have all raw
Bharwan-Karela: Stuffed bitter
Puri-Bhujiya: gourd or Bharwan-karela as
Bihari version of french is called in Bihar is prepared
fries, bhujiya packed in a unique and traditional
with flavor and taste is style in Bihari kitchen. Pulp is
common to every dish removed from boiled Karela
in lunch and dinner. and is fried in mustard oil
This simple yet crunchy with chopped onion, garlic,
Aloo-Bhujiya goes well panchforana (Bihar’s special
with dal-chawal too. spices of five types) and
Puri, called Kachauri pinch of salt. After cooling
in Bihar, is made with for sometimes, this paste is
wheat flour, semolina, stuffed in empty karela and
carom seeds, kalonji, salt deep fried. The taste comes
and oil/ghee and dough from the addition of fennel
is deep-fried to make and raw mango in the paste.
it crusty. At times it is The stuffed Karela should be
stuffed mildly with palak cooked in gravy prepared
for giving different look. with mustard powder in a heavy
supplements of onion, tomato, green bottom broad pan on slow flame
Vegetables specialties in chilly, and mustard oil. Or it has mix without stirring too much. A healthier
of processed onion, red chilly, garlic, option for people suffering with
Bihar and salt – all ingredients are cooked diabetes, heart disease, constipation,
in mustard oil before mashing them this dish is a summer special in Bihar.
Aaloo Chokha: Aaloo-chokha
is one of the side dishes, served with boiled potatoes. Sahjan ki Sabji: Sahjan
additionally in thali in lunch and Aaloo-Bhujiya: Paired with (drumstick) is known for its medicinal
dinner. However, the combination of dal-chawal, paratha and puri, aaloo- qualities. Sahjan in Bihari cuisine is
Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019 | 21
Vegetarian Dishes of Bihar

prepared with mustard power and


garlic which gives the fish-like aroma.
Scraping the upper tough part of
sahjan or moniga, as is called in north
region of the state, is cut in several parts
and sauté on medium heat. Sahjan is
cooked with potatoes in Bihar.
Baigan ka Chokha: Chokha is
referred as Bharta in Bihar. Baigan ka
chokha is a traditional Bihari recipe
which is made by roasting brinjal on
open flame and then mixing it with
raw onions, garlic and green chilies.
Usually chokha is topped with some
raw mustard oil for that extra zing. It
is generally served with litti but can go
with any types of meal like daal-chawal.
Baigan-Adouri-Ki-Sabji: Bihari
kitchen uses baigan (Brinjal) in
multiple forms. Most popular forms
of baigan include Baigan-ki-Bhujiya,
Baigan-Chokha and Baigan-ki-sabji.
Adouri is mandatory to accompany
baigan in Bihari style of cooking of
Baigan-ki-sabji. Adouri is small ball
prepared by drying up small besan
dough in sunlight.
Ole-Ki-Chutney: Mustard
flavoured Ole-ki-chutney (Jivikand in
Hindi and Yam in English) is special
side dish which usually is served
in lunch. A rich source of Omega 3
and anti-aging property, Ole is also
consumed as proper curry-vegetable
with mustard powder in Bihar. Ole is
boiled, mashed and infused with oil,
spices and lemon juice. This chutney
is a side dish which can be stored in
the refrigerator for two/three days
and can be served with delicious
lunch and dinner.
Kathal Kebab: A vegetarian
kebab made of Kathal(jackfruit), this
dish tastes like non-vegetarian kebab.
The paste of jackfruit, prepared by
grinding, is mixed with all kinds
of spices. Onions and tomatoes are
mixed well to the paste. The paste is
deep fried in the form of flat balls that
gives the flavor of mutton-kebab. n
22 | Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019
Delicacies
of Bihar SAUV Publication

B
Unlike Oriya and ihar cuisine offers a wide syrups, and therefore, are wet, sweets
Bengali sweets, which range of sweet dishes from Bihar are mostly dry. Besides,
are soaked in sugar and dessert delicacies dairy products in Bihar are consumed
that can make the hearts frequently throughout the year in the
syrups, and therefore, crave, especially if you form of dahi and buttermilk known
are wet, sweets from have sweet tooth. Bihari kitchen as mattha, ghee, lassi and butter. Some
Bihar are mostly dry. features desserts like Khoye-Ka-Lai, sweet delicacies of Bihar have made its
Tilkut, Anarsa, Khaja, Chandrakala, mandatory presence in the festivals.
Dairy products are Like, Holi is not considered complete
Balushahi, Murabba, Malpua etc
consumed frequently which bring reminiscences of Bihar. without Malpua in Bihar. Some of
throughout the year The cuisines of Bihar have several the most savored desserts which can
in the form of Dahi things in common with the culinary surely leave craving for more are:
and buttermilk traditions of other eastern states like Anarsa: Though, this sweet
West Bengal, Odhisa, and Jharkhand dessert has many variants in eastern
known as Mattha, which share border with Bihar. India, Bihari anaras is made using
Ghee, Lassi and However, unlike Oriya and Bengali rice flour, sugar and poppy seeds
butter. sweets, which are soaked in sugar and sesame. This delectable dessert
Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019 | 23
Sweet Delicacies of Bihar

is a must during festive occasions


in Bihar. Gaya is famous for making
delicious mouth-watering anarsa.
Tilkut: It is another form of
famous Bihari laai which is made of
sesame seeds and jiggery. This sweet
savory snack comes with several
names like til ka laai, til ka tri and
tilwa in different parts of the state.
Tilkut is a must-to-have snack on
Makar Sankranti. Though common to
everywhere in Bihar, Gaya is especially
famous for crunchy tilkut.
Laai: Laai is unique to Bihar
only. Two variations of Laai – made
with beaten rice and puffed rice – is
common breakfast during winter in
Bihar. Jaggery syrup is poured all over
lightly fried beaten rice or puffed rice
and are shaped into sizeable balls to
prepare the laai. Ram dana is also
used for preparing laai.
Khaja: This wafer-like sweet
snack is made from flour and sugar,
is deep fried and then dipped in
hot sugar syrup. This most-loved
sweetmate is said to have been
named by Lord Buddha when he
was served this dessert. As the name
itself implies – Khaa Ja – means eat
it. Bihari Khaja resembles 2000-year-
old Baklava  of Ottoman Empire.
This unique dessert from Bihar is
wafery in texture and yet melts in the
mouth.   Another variant of Khaja is
called Belgrami which is found around
Arrah and Buxar region and is made
of milk solids (a form of cheese),
sugar and ghee.
Makhana Kheer: Fox nut,
which we call makhana in Bihar, is
an important ingredient for kheer in
Bihari kitchen. This sweet and creamy
dessert is considered auspicious in
Bihari culture and, thus, is prepared
on every festive occasion. Makhana is
roasted and cooked in condensed milk
and sweetened with sugar to tantalize
the cravings. Makhana is cultivated
traditionally in Mithila region of the state.

24 | Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019


Sweet Delicacies of Bihar

Chandrakala: Bihari form


of  Gujia,  Chandrakala  is another
heavenly dessert for sweet-lovers in
Bihar. Stuffed with sweetened khoya,
coconut, cardamom powder and dry
fruits in a crispy round covering and
dipped in sugar-syrup, Chandrakala
is a must-try sweet dish of Bihar.
Laung-latika:  It is a traditional
dessert of Bihar which is prepared
during festive season. Although
similar to other stuffed delicacies like
Chandrakala, Launglata’s clove in the
centre and the crisp crust makes it
amazing to sweeten one’s sense.
Khurma/Shakarpara: Khurma
is another sweet-snack from Bihari
cuisine, made of flour and salt is
Malpua: Most delicious sweet
dish that features in Bihari cuisine
is malpua. Malpua with banana and
coconut is a must-to-make sweet dish
during Holi. Its batter is prepared by
mixing flour, milk, sugar and mashed
bananas and is deep-fried in such a way
that the edges remain crispy while the
middle part gets softness. It is cooked
on medium flame till both sides turn
brown. Essential ingredients for Malpua
are maida (refined flour), semolina,
milk, and yogurt. The crispy crust and
soft centre melts in mouth, making it
all-time favourite delicacy of Bihar.

deep-fried and dipped in sugar syrup.


Khurma is also called shakarpara in
north part of the state. As the sugar
syrup cools off, it crystallizes and
gives powdery outer texture which
makes it crunchy. Another variant of
this sweet snack is prepared with rice
flour dough called Laktho. 
  Balushahi: Filled with mildly
sweetened khoya and spices like
cardamom and cinnamon, Balushahi
is a traditional dessert from Bihari
cuisine. This dessert has certain
similarity with glazed doughnut in
terms of ingredients, but differs in
texture and taste. Balushahis are made
of maida flour, and are deep-fried
Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019 | 25
Sweet Delicacies of Bihar

in clarified butter and then dipped shape that is elongated, pantuais


in sugar syrup, sometimes even made with mawa, sugar and milk.
flavoured with the opulent saffron for Barahiya and Begusarai are known
added taste and fragrance. for lip-smacking pantua.
Gud ka Kheer: Though Kheer Imarti: Imarti is a flower-
is common to Indian subcontinent like sweet dish, resembling mostly
cuisine, Bihar has some variations national sweet jalebi. It is prepared
in the recipe of Chawal ka Kheer. with a batter made with grounded
Instead of using sugar to sweeten the urad dal, and is deep-fried in refined
Kheer, jiggery is used in Bihar for oil and further soaked in thick sugar
Kheer. This version of Gud ka kheer syrup. This delightful sweet dish finds
is an essential prasad during Chhath its origin in Mughal regime.
Batasha: This sweet candy is
Puja in the state.  Parwal ki Mithai: This sweet
mostly used on fasting and feasting
Kala Jamun: A close-cousin of rituals so can be tagged as temple- dish is mainly prepared during
the most-loved sweet Gulab-Jamun, sweets. Sugar is boiled in water till the festive season in Bihar. It is made of
Kala Jamun is the black or dark syrup reaches a harder consistency parwal and mawa. Parwal is boiled
purple variant of this sweet. It has got and soda bicarbonate is added to and cooked in sugar syrup to make
aerate this syurp and the chashni is it tender. Thereafter, khoya and dry
the name Kaala-Jamun because of its
dropped on to sheets in little coin fruits are stuffed and imbibed with
blackish tinge. These dipped rounds
shapes. Now, batasha is fashioned warm sugar syrup to provide outer
made of khoya and cottage cheese
into animals figure and dolls as Kheel delicacy.
are one of the most loved Bihari
which is used during Diwali and Rabri: Bihari variation of
sweets. Kala Jamuns are coated with
Chhath Puja.
sugar or some sugar is added in the Basundi, rabri is a sweet, condensed-
batter before frying which gives these Gaja: It is also a sweet snack in milk-based dessert prepared by
sweet balls blackish color. Munger, cubical form, made of maida and boiling the milk on low heat for a long
Bhagalpur & Banka Districts are sugar, served mostly with evening tea. time till it turns brown. Dry fruits and
known for mouth-watering Kala Pantua: An alternative for sugar is added to give the flavor. n
Jamun. kalajamun with only difference in

26 | Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019


Evening
Snacks of Bihar
SAUV Publication

Litti- Chokha may be

T
he mouth-watering vegetables like potatoes, brinjal, and
Bihari street foods are tomatoes, adding chopped onion, the prime attraction
no longer regional now. garlic, ginger, green chili and Indian of Bihari cuisine but
Litti-Chokha may be dry spices. In the beginning, Litti that’s not the only food
the prime attraction of was baked on cow-dung fire but now
Bihari cuisine for outsiders, but that’s coal fire is mostly used. This tangy- Bihar has to offer. A
not the only snack Bihar has to offer. flavoured traditional dish of Bihar number of flavoured and
A number of flavoured and mouth- has somehow become synonyms
mouth-watering street
watering street foods are indigenous with the state’s food habits. A word
to Bihar.The list of major Bihari of caution is that litti should not be foods are indigenous
street-foods run as follows: confused with Rajasthan’s Daal Baati to Bihar. Sattu is one
Churma since the latter is not only
Litti-Chokha: The lip-
very different in taste, but also in
of the most commonly
smacking Litti-Chokha, tagged as used ingredients in
texture and preparations.
state-food of Bihar, is a most-loved
option for snacks for non-resident Thekua: Also known as Bihari cuisine. Enjoying
Biharis now. It is prepared with ‘Khajuria’ or ‘Thikari’, it is used as flavoured Bihari snacks
wheat flour dumplings stuffed with sweet dry snack for centuries in
and street-foods in the
spiced Sattu, kneaded into round Bihar. Crispy and crunchy in texture,
spicy balls and roasted on a coal fire Thekua is mostly known being streets of metro cities
and dipped in ghee. Litti is always offered as a prasad during Chhath. has become a regular
accompanied with chokha which Wheat flour, ghee, jaggery are the
is prepared by mashing the boiled main ingredients for this easy-
phenomenon.
Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019 | 27
to-make snack recipe. Sometimes The maida-dough is stuffed with
melted sugar is also used as an semolina or sooji as a base instead
alternative to jaggery. Flour dough, of Khoya or Mava as in the case of
prepared with melted sugar and ghee, Gujiya. However, the stuffed maida-
is deep-fried in ghee till it turns red in dough’s edge is folded to get the
colour. Though high in calories, the desired design. Pedukiya is deep-
best thing with this delicious dish is fried till turns brown. Pedakiya made
that it can be preserved in an airtight in Chhapra region of Bihar is very
container for several days. famous.
Pedakiya: Pedakiya is Bihari Sattu (Gram-flour powder):
form of Gujiya of north Indian states. Sattu, the quintessential element of
Pedakiya is all-time favourite sweet Bihari kitchen, takes precedence as
snack of Bihari households. Also most indigenous protein source and
known as Purukiya or Pedukiya, this is an example of staple food of Bihari
snack is prepared especially during cuisine. Sattu is prepared with toasted
Holi, Teej and  Diwali festivals. gram flour as well as toasted barley or
28 | Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019
Evening Snacks of Bihar

a mixture of both. Sattu is also used Place the flattened puri into hot oil pitha is steamed to make it eatable,
as sharbat (drink) for its protein-rich and flip to let the puri puff on both making calorie-free and a good
content. Sharbat made with sattu, sides. Moong dal can also be used to option for health concerned people.
only served in Bihar, gives an instant get soft and delicious dal-puri. It can Pithas served along with hari dhaniya
cooling effect on body in summer. be served with any dry vegetables. ki chutney, tomato chutney or mint
Referred as poor man’s protein, sattu Traditionally, daal-puri is served with chutney tastes same as Momos with
is one of the healthiest drink options Kheer on festive occasions in Bihar. spicy red chili chutney.
in summer here.
Dal Pitha: Dal pitha is a popular Ghugni-Choora:Ghugni-choora
Daal Puri: Daal-Puri is another rice-flour-dumpling seasonal snack of is another popular and easy to
common breakfast in Bihar. This Bihari cuisine. A popular alternative prepare evening snack in Bihar. This
traditional Bihari breakfast is made to Momos in Bihar, Dal Pitha is evening snack is the scrumptious
with chana dal. Flour dough is prepared using fresh rice flour and combination of beaten rice (choora)
stuffed with ground boiled channa dal spicy masala lentil filling. The rice- and black gram (kaala-chana), spiced
and roasted cumin. The flour doughis dough prepared in triangular shape up with local spices. It is a very
flattened into small circles making called pitha is stuffed with spiced simple recipe prepared by stir frying
sure the stuffing does not fall apart. lentil fillings or gram paste. The filled boiled kala-chana with chopped
Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019 | 29
Evening Snacks of Bihar

onion, bay leaves, cumin seeds, green Nimki: This salty and crunchy
chilies, ginger, garlic paste and salt. snack is unique to Bihar which can be
Ghugni has a medley of spices with preserved for eight to ten days. This
great flavors put together. It can be snack is made from dough of flour
served with almost everything, puri, and salt. Roll the dough into a sheet
parathas, rotis, or just as plain ghugni. and cut the sheet into small diamonds
shape. Fry all the pieces and enjoy this
Murhi-Kachri: Kachri (onion’s
finger food snacks.
pakoda) is next-to-only Litti-Chokha
in popularity as most favoured evening Dahi-Jalebi: Jalebi is our national
snack of Bihar. The chopped onion sweet and Bihar eats Jalebi with Dahi
mixed with gram flour and other local (curd). Dahi and jalebi is a sweet
spices are deep-fried in mustered oil. combination as snack that Bihari uses
The best accompaniment taken with in breakfast and as evening snack too.
kachri is murhi (puffed rice). Dahi-bada: Dahi-bada is a side
Jhilli: A close-cousin of Kachri, dish mandatory for every household
Jhilli is a thin strings of gram-flour in Bihar to be prepared in Holi.
in round shape, mixed with local Essential ingredients for Bihari style
spices and is deep-fried. Jhilli is also of dahi-bada are urad dal, beaten
consumed with murhi. Biharsharif up boiled potatoes with ginger and curd, cooking oil, cumin seed, black
region’s jhilli is known for its lip- onions, made into roundels, dipped salt, asafoetida, and salt. Bada is made
smacking flavor. in gram flour (Besan) batter and with the paste of urad dal by soaking
deep fried. Murhi (puffed rice) and it overnight and grinding with other
Aloo Chap: Bihari style Aloo Aloo-chap makes the evening more spices. n
Chap is also a popular evening snack delicious.
of Bihar. It is prepared with mashing
30 | Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019
Non-Vegetarian
Cuisine of Bihar
SAUV Publication

T
he culinary tradition sacrifice of goats during Navratra to
of Bihar has evolved Goddess in shakti-puja and its meat
Bihari distinctive flavour
parallel with the is distributed as maha-prasad among of non-vegetarian dishes
cuisines of the regimes devotees. Fish and Mutton are two finds mention in the
that ruled this region regular non-vegetarian delights of memoirs of Maulana
from time to time. Despite the Bihar handed down by generations.
significant impact of Buddhism on Moghul regime – and the Nawab
Abul Kalam Azad
Bihar’s cuisine culture in the form of Bengal - cultivated the culture who found it quite
of vegetarian food, a significant of Kebab, biryani, fowls and birds. tasty. Several forms of
size of Bihari population remains The invaders like Turks, Afghanis, Bihari-kebabs, mutton
non-vegetarian. Maithili Brahmin Persians, and much later Mughals
community loves fish as much as preparations and the
and the Europeans had logically deep
any non-vegetarian lover does in influence on the culinary tradition dishes prepared from
the country. Mutton preparation is of Bihar. The fusion of the native various fowl and birds
mandatory among non-vegetarians kitchens of Mauryan and Gupta era along with mustard-
during festive seasons like Holi and got blended with the exotic aroma
Dussehra. Though no more readily flavoured fish have
of invaders’ kitchen. Thus Bihar
available now in the open market, became the melting pot of cuisines,
a distinctive taste in
fowl, quail and partridge birds - handed down to us by generations of Bihar. Champaran
called Bageri, Titar, Bater, and Chaha varied regimes. region of Bihar is
locally - are exotic preparations for
Biharis any day. In addition, Bihar Bihari distinctive flavour of non- famous for mutton
has an old tradition of offering the vegetarian dishes finds mention in grilled dish called Taash.
Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019 | 31
32 | Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019
Non-Vegetarian Cuisine of Bihar

the memoirs of Maulana Abul Kalam is juicy chunks of chicken or meat mutton-recipe. Entire mixture of
Azad who found them quite delicious. marinated in the flavors of yoghurt mutton, onion, grind spices and
Several forms of Bihari-kebabs, and poppy seed paste and then important ingredients with mustard
mutton preparations and the dishes barbecued till it turns golden. The oil are placed into the earthen pot on
prepared from various fowl and birds uniqueness of the Bihari kabab is in its mild heated charcoal. Also, the pot is
along with mustard-flavoured fish texture, marinade and spice content. sealed with wet flour after putting the
have a distinctive taste. Champaran The use of kabab chini, poppy seeds, mixture inside. It is cooked for over
is famous for mutton-grilled dish nutmeg, mace and papaya makes it one hour on low heat without opening
called Taash. Bihari Kebabs wrapped remarkably tender. Bihari Kebab is the seal to stir. Instead, entire pot is
up in a paratha called Bihari kebab best served as wrapped in paratha shaken from time to time. This makes
rolls is gastronomic delight for non- with a twist of lemon juice. the dish special as no water is added
vegetarians in Bihar. Mithilanchal from outside. The steam generated
Champaran Handi Meat:
has a number of natural ponds and tenders the mutton without much
A shade of cuisine culture of
lakes and that enables Maithils to loss of the flavour of the species.
Champaran-Betia belt of the state,
easy fish farming and fish eating.
Handi meat has gained the fame for Fish-curry: Bihari fish-curry,
Mithila region is known for its unique
its unique method of cooking and its especially the Rahu variety, with
mustard-powder fish recipe.
vital ingredients. The distinct way of mustard paste, is a gastronomic
Bihari Kebab: Indigenously cooking the famous Champaran meat delight for non-vegetarian food-
originated in Middle Eastern cuisine, makes the dish special in taste. Meat lovers. A typical way of cooking fish
Kebab is most loved dish among non- is not fried with onion, grinded spices with mustard powder in Bihar is what
vegetarians. Bihari variant of kebab and other items as we do in regular makes Bihari fish curry different

Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019 | 33


from other parts of the country.The Prawn curry: This is also special suitable roasting temperature till the
secret of this mouth-watering fish- to Bihari cuisine. Jhinga (prawn) does water dries up and the kababs turned
curry is the important ingredients not require as much complex recipe well-browned. Garnish with onion
that include mustard seeds, garlic, as rohu fish does. Put the prawn in slices and green chilies and enjoy
ginger, cumin, red chili roasted pan and add garlic paste, red chilli Bihari seekh-kabab.
lightly before grounding. After powder, mustard paste, poppy seed
Bihari Boti: The recipe goes
frying the pieces of rohu fish, this paste, turmeric powder, salt and
mustard oil and mix well. Add about same like Kebab with one difference
power of masala is sauté and water
½ cup of water and let it cook for 15 that this is made of boneless meat.
is mixed to boil the fried pieces
minutes on low flame. It is mostly Bihari-Boti is also quite famous
of fish. This gives the awesome
served with roti. among non-vegetarians. Bihari boti
taste and flavor that is served with
can be cooked in pan or barbeque or
rice. As the region of Mithila has Potiya Machhli: Fresh small
even in oven.
matured pisci-culture tradition fishes from the ponds and rivers are
since ages, machh-bhat has deep-fried with local masala. It is Fowl-flesh: In non-vegetarian
become the trademark of Mithila’s the roasted form of fish which is best menu, Bihar has a rare tradition of
cuisine. Therefore, most Maithil served with paratha or roti. enjoying the flesh of birds like fowl,
Brahmins are non vegetarian by Bihari seekh kabab: An quail and partridge. Such birds are
tradition. Rohu, naini, bhakur, important part of Moghul menu, kept in household for its eggs and
singhi, pothi are typical verities Bihari variation of seekh-kabab is flesh. These birds are locally known as
of fish cultivated in Mithila. Fish an infusion of mutton, raw papaya, Teetar and Bater and are found, non-
curry, fried fish, fish-egg pakora, garlic, ginger, onion and mustard oil. farmed and fed on natural products.
fish pickles are some traditional All ingredients are mixed and kept The recipe is almost identical to
delicacies in a Brahmin household marinated for half an hour. Set in mutton curry and is served with rice,
of the region. the skewers and roast in an oven at better known as Bageri-Bhat. n

34 | Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019


Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019 | 35
36 | Man Main Bihar | January − March 2019

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