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STORY OF A PILGRIMAGE
TO H1JAZ.
BY
RULER OF R HO PAL.
CALCUTTA .
1909.
BP
187
^ALCUlTA :
^
1
^(
ry OF TC
IN THE NAME OF THE MOST
MERCIFUL GOD.
INTRODUCTION.
8];
JU X5UVI
U-y Bl
God,
make this City an abode of peace.
again to be postponed.
It is well known that the Courts of even the
with it.
BOOK I.
CHAPTER I.
Mecca is
supplied with water by two canals.
One of these had been commenced by Ibn
Zubair Kuraishi, but, being left unfinished by him,
was completed by the Queen of Sultan Sulaiman
of Turkey. The other was constructed by the
Abbaside Khalifa, Muktadir. The site of Mecca
Mecca and is
protected by an old wall of strong
PH 2
18 THE STORY OF A
thus :
mosque whose environments
It is a
my remarks to them. On
heading, I will restrict
the strength of the Imam Abu-1-Walid-Azraki s tes
6
Adam, it is because of your sin. Make a
Kitab-ul-Ilm-
colour.
violence.
people of Sodom.
Sarah had a great longing for children. She
God?"
"
dition :
6
The run between the Safa and Marwa has
been ordained that the servants of God may
remember the loneliness and helplessness of Ha-
gar and how she turned to God most High, and
may bring their own loneliness and helplessness
to that same True King and implore His mercy.
When Hagar reached Marwa the seventh time,
she heard a voice and, turning towards it, she said
*
Fear not." Then she listened attentively and
c
*
Birds only rise to fly where men dwell ;
we
often pass by this place, but have never seen water
or the dwellings of men. At length they
sent round a man to look and tell what he saw.
The man came back and said that a spring of
4
The stranger was my father who has signified
bring the stones all the way from the hills of Abu
Kubais, Hira, and Warkan. When the walls rose
of Abraham ?
s footprint and is called the Makam
i-Ibrahim (Abraham s standing place). The
story.
66
O Lord, accept (this service) from us, for verily
Thou nearest and knowest everything. God,
make us and our children to bow to Thy will and
show us our rites and forgive us ;
for Thou art the
^gg *
fx
"5^;;TS
PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. 45
of the Kaaba.
A short while afterwards, during the reign
The Decorations.
THE COVERING.
Shah Asaad, known as Tubba-i-Hamyari, King
of Yaman, was the first to furnish the Kaaba
with a covering. He did this in consequence of
Ashab-i-Sufa,"
ters were put into the roof for shelter. There were
still six doors as in the time of the Khalifa Umar.
The building was completed as the moon rose on
the night of the 1st of Muharram in the year 30
Hijra.
CONSTRUCTION.
mosque.
vants of the
Mosque flung open the doors
and the alarm was given. The Governor of
Medina and all the citizens ran up and made
IMPROVEMENTS.
Subsequently in the year 999 Hijra Sultan
Murad Khan added three more porches to the
mosque. These porches were constructed in the
SUPPLEMENT TO BOOK I.
* "A woman may wear sewn clothes, white or light blue (not
black), but her face-veil should be kept at a distance from her face."
Arafat "
and the Marwa, the sacrifice, the hulk, and the kasr.
and bring the hadi all the way either from Zu-1-
Halifa or Medina. For pilgrims from Syria and
pilgrims.
Seven pilgrims may share in the sacrifice of
graves.
MASJID-I-JAMI.
Kaabah, with her feet northwards, her head southwards, and her
right cheek propped by her right hand. Whitewashed and conspicu
ous to the voyager and traveller from afar, is a diminutive dome with
an opening to the west ; it is furnished as such places usually are in
Al Hijaz. Under it and in the centre is a square stone, planted up
right and fancifully carved, to represent the omphalic region of the
human frame. This as well as the dome, is called As Surrah or
the Navel Having prayed here and at the head, where
a few young trees grow, we walked along the side of the two parallel
dwarf walls which define the outlines of the body they are about six ;
paces apart."
88 THE STORY OP A
of the Hajj.
sect.
Bm-i-TuwA.
means of salvation.
MASJID-I-JEZRANA.
Mecca.
JABAL-I-NUR.
revealed.
JABAL-I-SAUR.
Thinking that, if any one had gone in, the nest and
repose, Abu Bakr did not move the toe from the
hole ;
but the strength of the poison and pain of
the wound were so great that his tears fell on the
sacred cheek of the Prophet, who opened his
JANNAT-UL-MUALLA.
Prophet.
3 THE STORY OF A
MAKAN-I-SHA B-UN-NUE.
place :
BILAL S MOSQUE.
offering.
THUKAK-UL-WASTA.
(Central Lane.)
This is the site of a monument in which rest
SHA AB-I-AMIR.
(Amir s date.)
jABAL-I-HlNDI.
(Mount Hindi.)
This place is noted for the grave of the Sahib-
ul-Jauhari.
100 THE STORY OF A
FORT OP MECCA.
Under the walls of this fort lies the grave
of the Saint Shaikh Abu Said.
SAFA MARWAH.
This was the dwelling place of Umar the
SUKAK-UL-MAAZIAH.
Khalifa.)
There is a travellers rest here known as the
TONGUE OE STONE.
Here a piece of stone sticks out from the
holy place.
THUKAK-UL-HAJAR.
(Stone Lane.)
RUKUMA.
This is the site of the graves of two holy
SUK-UL-LiAIL.
JABAL-UMAE.
This is a hill on which stands a mosque built
JAYYAD.
Here is the house of Shaikh Abu Haddad.
SHABIKA.
The grave of the Saint Mahjub is situated
here,
MlNKALA.
This is the birthplace of Abu Bakr, the first
sings !).
SHAAB-I-ALL
(AWs date.)
DAR-I-ARKAM.
(House of ArJcam.)
This house is situated on the hill of Safa.
KAVIAT-UZ-ZIKK BIL-SAFA.
MASJID-UR-EAABI.
This is a mosque situated at the extreme end
SAYYAD.
There is a mosque here of this name.
104 THE STORY OF A
JASKUL.
This is the site of the grave of Sayyaduna
Shaikh Mahmud.
SUK-UL-MUALLA.
places of pilgrimage.
doorways thus :
2. Bab-uz-Ziadah : 3 arches.
3. Bab-i-Ali : 3 arches.
106 THE STORY OF A
6. Bab-i-Umm-i-Hani : 2 arches.
7. Bab-i-Sharif : 2 arches.
8. Bab-i-Mujahid : 2 arches.
9. Bab-i-Safa : 2 arches.
ZAMZAM.
This is a well situated within the Sacred Pre
HAJAR-I-IBRAHIM.
homes.
MAKAM-I-MUSALLA
MAKAM-I-MUSALLA MALIKI.
(The MaliJcites place of prayer.)
At this Musalla, which has one brasd spire,
the Imam of the Malikis stands to pray. The
parts Malikis.
MAKAM-I-MUSALLA HAMBALI.
(The Hambalis place of prayer.)
The Hambalis Musalla has one brass spire.
copper spire.
Bismillah, Allahu
chakar or circuit.
Tawaf-ul- Warid.
PH 8
114 THE STORY OF A
Tawaf.
V. The Tawaf-un-Nazr (circumambulation
of vows) is performed by persons who, having
made a vow, have had their wish granted.
may be performed.
VII. The Tawaf-un-Nafi (circumambulation
of supererogation) differs from the six Tawafs
above described, in that no particular time or occa
HATIM.
MlZAB-I-KAHMAT.
GABRIEL S DOOR.
No.
PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. 119
covering.
off and the new one put on. Of the old covering,
the embroidered curtain hanging against the
entrance of the Kaaba and the
"
Waist
band "
MASJID-UL-ASHR.
This mosque is also situated on the way to
Mina. The Ansar (Helpers) did homage to the
122 THE STORY OF A
handgrasp of fealty
was revealed.
MASJID-I-HANIF.
ISHMAEL S ALTAR.
MASJID-UL-AKIM.
of Ishmael.
MINA,
JAMRAT.
There is a place in Mina where three pillars
ARAFAT.
Arafat is a very high mountain at the foot of
the Hajj is
performed. Round the plain are a
number of hills big and little, and in the centre
It is
obligatory for every man and woman to
performed in it.
MUZDALIFA.
ijj
the pilgrims arrive at Mina and cast at the
8. Offering sacrifice.
9. Tonsure of the head or cropping of the
hair.
CHAPTER I.
"
Nasir-ul-Muham if
they are preferred against the
Muin-ul-Muham s decree or finding, or vice versa.
as usual.
fidelity.
port, etc.
144 THE STORY OF A
XIV. No
Indian guest will be entertained by
the State during our absence with the exception
of persons in whose favour any communication
* * * #
Kharita from Her Highness Nawab Sultan Jehan
Begain, the Ruler of Bhopal, addressed to His
Excellency
the Viceroy and Governor-General of India, dated the
PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. 145
(After compliments.)
It is well known to Your Excellency that it is
my charge.
Both younger sons Hafiz Ubaidullah
my
Khan and Hamidullah Khan will accompany me.
It will be necessary for a European officer to
Delhi.
DEPARTURE.
rapacity suppressed,
has confirmed and acceler
ful children that they are. They left her with her
hereby issued :
166 THE STORY OF A
"I.
Throughout the entire journey to the
Hijaz, the official designation of each servant of
the State will be that shown in statement No. 1,
II.
Committee.
PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. 167
matter to us.
"
"
or ill
-feeling. Their conduct on the contrary mus fc
"
prohibited.
"
punished.
"
permission.
"XVIII. The order in which each batch of
in statement No. 5.
lowing rules :
camp.
(/) Persons joining the camp must bring
with them all such personal luggage as they will
specified spot.
Bahadur, the
174 THE STORY OF A
No.
3
4
5
PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. 175
Palace Accounts.
nection wif-h the trav Ali, Supdt. of the State Guest house ;
Arrangements for (
Munshi Sabir Husain, Sayyad Abdul
making purchases J Halim Mutawwif, Sayyad Abu Bakr
and sales j
Rashidi, Abdulla Khan, Asst. Manager of
(
the kitchen.
PH 12
178 THE STORY OF A
the ship will take some cargo and this takes time
ascertain.
my desire.
Act.
Macwatt s movements.
quarantine.
The Government of India have no objection
to the detachment of the Bhopal Victoria Lancers
of my saloons.
me in quarantine.
Bombay.
Ere this Haji Cassirn had been advised to
clean the Akbar. But I have recently heard
that she is still same dirty condition.
in the
complied with.
The Turkish Government ask for a written
city of Bhopal.
You have already asked the General Traffic
Manager, Bombay, and Captain Goodridge, Dir
ector of the Indian Marine to the Bombay Gov
ernment, to disinfect my special train and the
steamer respectively, and to comply with the
Turkish rules regarding pilgrim ships in respect
of S. S. Akbar. To forbid communication with
intermediate places I have arranged that my
special will be brought on the Bhopal-Ujjain
road.
sojourn in Arabia."
Turkish rules.
5. Rats in steamer to be killed.
quarantine rules.
7. Intimation to be given if
Bhopal affected
with plague.
Copy of a letter No. 770., dated Bhopal, the 16th October
thoroughly disinfected.
PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. 201
Haji Cassim.
If your Highness wishes to have an agree
ment drawn up it would be as well to have it
done in a legal manner as it is possible that the
document executed in Bhopal, of which Haji
assim writes, might not be valid in a British
Court of Law.
places.
there.
salaams.
204 THE STORY OF A
"PROCLAMATION.
DATED THE 2ND EAJAB 1321 HIJRA.
To
ALL INHABITANTS OF BfiOPAL TERRITORY.
Just as the Glorious Creator of the two worlds,
when exalting some of his creatures more than
others, hasimposed on the ruled the duty of obe
dience and good-will towards the ruler, so He has
PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. 205
given below :
her.
Emperor.
PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. 213
translation :
in an excess of reli
piously disposed Indians
a dangerous state
gious enthusiasm may travel in
of health, and thus either run the risk of being
copy :
infection.
"
morning.
As my arrival in Bombay will be public, I
presented me with
garlands and bouquets. The
S. S. Akbar chartered for
my voyage was standing
close to the platform. On from the
alighting
train I and my ladies were carried in palanquins to
the ship where we embarked, and then the men
came on board. The Political Agent and other
European friends came on board to bid me
PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. 225
In the
PH 15
CHAPTER III.
SEA VOYAGE.
venience.
Sayyads.
Shaikh Nissar Zahiri, with 15 Sayyads.
Shaikh Khalf, brother of Shaikh Khalil, the headman of
lows :
(1) Sharif Ahmad bin Mansur, (2) Sharif
PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. 243
custody.
N.B. My dates will now follow those kept
arrival at Medina.
Total 232
in the maidan.
Every precaution was taken
to safeguard the camp. The name of the place
where we halted was Bir-i-Abbas (the well of
Abbas).
TOTAL 158
*
Plural of Itafizi : A certain sub-division of the Shias of Kufa so
called because they deserted ( Rifz -desertion, forsaking) Zaid the
son of AH when he forbade them to revile and anathematize the
premier companions of the Prophet. In its secondary meaning the
word has come to signify a heretic and is opprobriously applied by the
Sunnis to the Shias-
262 THE STORY OF A
"ESTEEMED GENTLEMEN,
I owe unnumbered thanks to Almighty
present ;
there were no men inside the shrine.
The Haram is
usually closed at night, but
visitation.
Arab ceremonies.
On Thursday, the 14th Ramzan, our party
was similarly entertained by Sayyad Safi. I
a dinner
According to the custom here,
consisting of 12
courses isregarded as a ban
description of Pilau).
At the time of our departure from Bhopal
Nawab Muhammad Nasrullah Khan Sahib
journey.
assistance to me.
enclosed.
280 THE STORY OF A
Macwatt.
Copy of a telegram dated 4th November 1903, from
Khedivieh, Alexandria, to the Director of the Royal
Indian Marine, Bombay.
12 Horses.
January 1904.
as above.
Agent in Bhopal.
salaams to you.
There is all well in my suite.
Mac watt.
Copy of a letter dated Medina, the 7th December 1903, from
Her Highness the Begam of Bhopal to His Britannic
proximo.
Conversation ensued as to rescission of the
contract signed here on the 23rd ultimo. I am
now pleased to report that on the 26th instant
the Agent showed me a telegram worded as fol
lows :
ALLIMBERTI,
v Jeddah.
profit ;
in order to please Her Highness Khassa
agrees to annul contract without compensation
on condition her voyage be by land.
Your Commission will be paid you by
Khassa. Communicate exactly Princess. Obtain
written reply. Send by post, telegraphing result.
"Hemsy."
details.
him.
At 9 A.M. the Muftis of the Hanafi and
Shafai sects and the Shaikh-ul-Haram accom
panied by the interpreter Sayyid Yasin paid
the Id call. The Shafai Mufti, in pursuance of
302 THE STORY OP A
following is a translation :
"
of Medina.
right.
Medina.
progress ;
a guard -of -honour composed partly of
local troopsand partly of the troops that accom
caravan.
Name. Rank.
1. Izzutlu Mustafa Basin Beg ... Lieutenant.
2. Muhammad Saleh Effendi ... Mufti.
etc. etc. etc.
upon them."
question.
All themoney I had taken with me
had, by this time, come to an end. To provide
affair.
"
why I was sent for by the Vali and what the Vali
said to me.
case.
We
had telegraphed from Aden to Major L.
satisfactory.
Muharram 1322 A. H.
Mosque.
But for certain reasons the arrival of the
Ceremony :
:-. -. ..;.
in i "
that Masjid.
,,
Abdul Rahman Khan.
,, Velayet All Khan.
,,
Yar Mohamad Khan.
,,
Maksud AH Khan.
Mahfuz All Khan.
Hayee Mohamad Khan.
,,
Mahmud All Khan.
,, Enayet All Khan.
,,
Abdul Samad Khan,
alias Salar Mian.
,,
Rauff Mohamad Khan.
,,
Zaffar Mohamad Khan.
Kamil Mohamad Khan.
ceremonies :
Pillao ;
Muzaffar (sweet Pillao) ; Parathas (salt) ;
PILGRIMAGE TO HIJAZ. 359
follows:
Masjid Asafi.
Zainul-Masajid.
Riazul-Masajid.
Masjid Nishat Afza Garden.
Masjid Sultani.
30:).
.IAMAI MAS.IIH