pilaeus

υGΕΝΙΑ SALZA PRΙNA RιCοΤΤι

Translated by Ruth Anne Lotero

VIEALS AI{D RECIPES

]

FROM ANCIENT GREECE

J, PAUL GΕττΥ Ν,ι USEUM, LoS ANGELES

 C oNTENTS

PART Ι: INTRODUCTION
Ι
Homer: The First Allusions to Food
and lts Preparation
2
The Golden Age Banquet
6
Domesdc Dining from the Fifth Century
Onl,ηrard
8
Wedding Banquets
Ι4
Greek Menus
Ι7
Regional Gastronomy and Customs
2ο
Hellenism and Alexandel the Great
25
Expenses
Ζ,6
Wine and the Symposium
Ζ8
Bibliography
33

Ρ-ξ,RΤ ΙΙ: RECIPES

35
Breads and Flour-Based Foods
36
Sauces and Condiments for Bread
42
Appetizers
, Soups andYegetables
44
53
Meat
6ο
Seafood
7τ
Desserts
Ιο2
Condiments, Flavorings, and Seasonings
ιι8
Index
Ι2τ
 INTTRODUCTIONT

rom τhe age of Achilles to Alexander the Greaτ: over α τhousand years, and such
α great span of history. And not just the courtly history of battles, plagues, kings,
:},Iants, and great oratols, but also the plodding, daily history of common people
:r),ing το make τhε most out of life.

i\-e can 1οοΚ back οη ancient Greek life through ßτs epic and rηride-ranging Ιßτeτα-
.ure, ßη which αΙ1 subjects, including daily life, are explored. Iη τhßò liτeraτure rηre

:rιd α r,ηrealth of information about ancient Greek meals, Ιτοm τhose hosτed by τhe
\I1,cenaean kings to the fantastic banquets of the lαsτ sovereigns of τhε Hellenisτic
:τα. There are thousands of passages dealingwith food and dining, eyerything fτom
:ιiquette to menu planning. We are fortunate indeed τhατ αlmοsτ αΙ1 τhε auτhors of
::re Hellenisτic age-geographers, storytellers, chroniclers of history poets, or,
:εsτ of αΙ], comic r.ηzriters-rηrroie about food, banquets, and r,vine. (Inτriguingly,
Jmost of τhese rnrriters included voluntary purging as α topic.) Other scholars
αΙΙ

:ompiled books whose sole theme \Λ/αs τhe kitchen and ßτs ingredienτs. We have evi_
:ence of τητεlΙ over t\η/enty ryorks specializing ßη cuisine of rηrhich, υηfοττυηατεΙγ,
-,ηΙγ α handful have suryived.

, he most important and complete of the surviving texts is the rηrork of α Greek
.:holar, Aτhenaeus. Leaving behind his native Naucraτis ßη Εgγρτ, Aτhenaeus moved
ι
Rome ßη the second century B.c. to become the librarian of Ρ Livy Larensis, α rich
:,ιrzen, α descendent ofVarro, and the ο\Λ/ηετ of αη immense library. This job furτ
lshed the scholar urith α maτvelous opportunity to compile, r,ιriτh loving care, his
ºlmense rηrork entitled The Deipnosophists (Deipnosophisτae means "]earned banqueτ"), α
::eaiise dlvided into fifτeen books and dedicaτed το his benefacτor. Wßτhßη τhe pages of
lle Deipnosophists, rηre not οηΙγ find the most deτailed noτes αbουτ αηòßεητ Greek food
and cookery fτοm τhe τimes of Homer forrnrard, but rηre are also informed about horηr
much and τητhατ rηras served ατ banquets elserηrhere along the Mediterranean coast.

Indeed, τlre curiosiτy of Greek auτhors did not end αt the shores of their sea, but
exτended ßητο τhe far reaches οf τhε Κηοlητη world. Megasthenes, α Greek author of the
Hellenisτic era lvho arτived ßη India folloιving Alexander the Great, described rηrhat
τhe Indians ατe and hοτητ τhe food rηras served. Iη his second book, Indika ("History of
india"), he recounτs τhατ ßη τhατ far-off land α lor,ηr table was set nexΙ to each guest,

and οη ßτ rvas placed α golden bourl filled to the brim rηrith boiled rice and α number
of sτrongly spiced meατ sauces.This shor.ηrs that even ßη the fourth century B.C.,Indian
food rηras based οη curry sauces.

Megasτhenes \Λ/αò ηοτ τhe οηΙγ αυτhοι το \η/ιßtε of distant peoples and their eating
habiτs. Iη τhe many diverse τεχτò examined by Athenaeus, authors discussed the foods
and banqueτs of peoples from India to Spain: Celts, Germans, Thracians, Persians,
ancienτ Syrians, Egypτians, and Parτhians.They even cite the mysterious and (as far as
τhe Greeks \Λ/eτε concerned) υττετΙγ uncivilized Etruscans, Ιη ιheir rvritings, the
Alexandrian rheτoricians and grammarians ridiculed the Phoenician habit of eating
smoked fish, criτiqued Ετhßορßαη cumin, and disdained Babylonian apples; and rnrhile
τhey commenτed unfavorabiy οη τhe immorality of ιhe effeminaie men of Babylonia,
they effused over τhe luxury οf τheir dining habits. Iη sum, Greek r,ηrriτers had
explored and commenτed οη τhε food, cookerμ gardens, farms, fisheries, leavenings,
and condimenτs of τhε Κηοτητη τητοτld, and Athenaeus, τereading and synιhesizing the
τeχτò of τhese r.ηrriτers, broughτ αΙΙ τhε gastronomical facts and stories together ßη his

anthology, α ma]or r.ηrork thατ is sτßßΙ interesting, fluid, and easy to read today.

HOMER: ΤΗΕ FlRST ALLUSIONS

ΤΟ FOOD AND ΙΤS PREPARAΤΙON

Our knoιnrledge of Greek food and εατßηg habits begins rπrith the Homeric poetic cycle:
The lliad and The Odyssey. Βοιh r.ηrorks ατε of course attributed to the blind οταtοτ,

Homer, bυτ ßη fαòτ τhεγ ττεατ τ\Λ/ο distinct time periods, something that becomes abun-
dantly clear rηrhen one examines the differences ßη τhε habiτs of hearτh and home
betrηreen the tτητο poems.

Το begin r,vith, ßη The lllad, men sat dοιητη ßο eaτ (Aιhenaeus ι.ιιff ,),lηrhereas τhe
reclining couch r,ηras used ßη such couches were ηοτ γeτ Κηοινη ßη τhe era
The Odyssey;

of The lliad. Iη the firsτ poem, daily life r,ηras conducτed r,viτh greaι simpliciτy. Ατ dinner
beneath theTrojan rηralls, the men ate chunks of beef roasτed over αη open fire. Ατ τhis
point ßη history meat \Λ/αs ali,ιrays roasted; it seems that ηο other cooking meτhods
ιητeτe knolηrn. Antiphanes, α Middle Comedy poet, joked τhατ Homer never had soup οτ
α bßτ of boiled meat plepared for his heroes. "He ryas so primitive," added the comic,
"τhατ he even had tripe roasted!" Goat and lamb rηrere also eaten, but Priam, after his

more heroic sons lrave died, bemoans the fact that αΙΙ the offspring he has left are "the
disgraces, τhe liars and the dancers, .. , the plunderers of their orπn people ßη their
land of lambs and kids" (Jliad Ζ4,Ζ6ι-6Ζ), Ιη all probability he rnras less indignant at
τheir plundering τhαη ατ τhε idea τhαι his sons \Λ/ere εατßηg food fit οηlγ for r,ιreak
females: τhε heroes and defendeτs of the country should be eating οηlγ bloody steak
and undiluιed ιητßηe, comestibles that r,ηrere thought to keep soldiers strong and render
τhem fiτ and keen for bατιΙe.

The heroes of the Trojan War also consumed great loayes of bread served ßη huge
baskeτs. But, according to Athenaeus, bread \η/as never served at dinner, α meal that
consisτed οηΙγ of beef, As α beveτage, red and even black rnrine rnras offered ßη expan-
sive cups-a fact that, given the enyironment, could be said to be heroic indeed.

Cheese is menτioned, though rarely, but ßη α predominantly pastoral civilization it

is οηΙγ natural that cheese rπas made and eaten. Grated goat cheese mixed r,ηrith

Pramnian rηrine-red, full-bodied, and heavy-rηras offered to the healeτ Machaon

by Nesτor, after the former was urounded ßη the shoulder. This mixture \Λ/αs apparently
ιhουghτ το give the body special sustenance: α forerunner, perhaps, of our modern
blood τransfusions. Το render it more palatable and τempt the rηrounded hero tο
sιηταΙΙοτητ it, Machaon rvas given αη οηßοη ιο munch betrηreen gulps of τrine (Iliad
ττ ,6Ζ9* 35).
Olive οß1 rηras also most important. It \Δ/αs then the basic seasoning for food and
remained so υητß1 τhε end of αηιßqυßτγ, Ιη ruined palaces of this period-for example,
τhose alleged το be from τhε reign of Nestor at Pylos, going back thirty-three hundred
years-\Λ/e find τraces of large doloi (vats) used to hold οßΙ, as τητεΙ1 as clay tablets ßη the
ancienτ urriτing sysτem of Linear Β τhαt served for bookkeeping ßη that remote era,

Alτhough flsh filled τhε Mediτerranean Sea, then as nornr, and the people of the coast
harvesτed ßτ ßη greaτ qυαητßτßεò, fish dlshes are completely absent from the tables of the
Trojan\Λhr heroes. Iτ is ηοτ τhατ Homer ignored iis existence: ßη The lliad, he describes
τhe Hellesponτ as α sea abounding ßη fish. This fact ßη itself preciudes the notion that
not so much as α sardine \ηιαs to be found οη α Greek hero's table. But Homer's
descripτions lack ηοτ οηΙγ fish, but αΙΙ fish products, as vrell as fruits and vegetables,
alτhough among the common people such lood uras surely abundantly represented
at mealtimeS.

Ιτ could be conjecτured τhατ such foods \η/ετε ηοt considered \Δτοτthγ of the mythicai
god-heroes, τητhο r,ηrere the sτuff of legend. It is rηrell to remember that the gods,
according to mythologμ dined exclusively οη nectar and ambrosia; this may have led
το τhe pIesumpτion ιhατ τhe heroes rηrere nourished οηΙγ by elevated foodstuffs such as
beeζ bread, and sτrong wine. There is archaeological evidence that this god-king diet
ßη fαòτ, also τhε choice oΓreal kings and their courts during this historical period.
rnras,

Ιη the remains of the vast Mycenaean throne rooms, οτ megalons-for example, those
of "Agamemnon" ατ Mycenae and of "Nestor" at Pylos-there are signs τhατ mεατ
r,ιras α principal food of the τογα1 rnrarriors of the Bronze Age. Large, squat benches are
arrayed around immense hearths, capacious enough for αη entire οχ; there, elborηr-to-
εlbοτητ, τhε king and his courτ mighτ personally prepare their suppers rηrhile discussing
governmenτ affairs. Such grand hearιhs r.ιrere hardly the place to poach α filet of sole.

When \η/ε come to The Odysseμ r.ιre find that life had changed considerably since the
τßmε of The lliad. According το τhε latest ideas, The Odyssey is α retelling of αη eighth-
centuIy "chanson de geste " into rvhich α number of later elements rvere incorporated,
Certain habits persist: ηο one lητουßd have cooked and served mullet to Odysseus, for
 -,sιance. Οηlγ rvhen the beleaguered heroes face starvation, as τητhεη they are stranded
- Slcily, forbidden το eat the cattle that ΑροΙlο grazed there, are they foτced tο eat f,sh
ιΖ.3òα-58).Iη fact, this Sicilian episode and the deer hunt ßη the Circe
)Jl-ssey
::isode (ΒοοΚ ιο) are the οηΙγ times Odysseus and his cre\ηr Tesorted to fishing and
_lnting: ηο mention of fish appeaIs elserηrhere.

Ξ:ι ßη oτher respecτs, the world that The Odyssey descτibes ηο longer resembles that of
.:eTroianWar. For one thing, the characters ηο]π consume their meals sprarvled οη
.'le famed τriclinium couches, which came ßητο use ßη τhε Ιατε seventh to eighth cen-
,-*r1, Furτhermore, τhe Odyssean heroes \Λ/ere surrounded by beautiful handmaidens

=d rηrashed τhεßτ hands before eating; neither of these things occurred ßη The Ιliad.

, _orτiculτure had come into use, at least at the basic level of cultivating barley and
,,,,,heaι.
Orchards appeared, such as those found οη Scheria, the land of the Phaeaclans.
:_r example is τhe splendid and culτivated garden of Alcinous, ßη rηrhich both fruit and

''orι-ers greτr. Ιη lthaca, Odysseus's aged father, Laertes, grerv his orvn vegetables and
.alad makings, The diet \η/αs more varied and although roasted meat continued to be
,::e principal food, ßt rηras ηο longer the οηΙγ protagonist at the banquet οf this period:
,_:e monoτonous and primitive carnivorous diet of earlier times had been supplanted.

:_ greaτer varieτy of foods began το sholηr υρ even ατ royal τables. Ατ τhe same τßmε,
:ooking became more refined: after centuries of tossing eyerything οη the fire, ηειητ
,,,,,ai,s
of cooking the main dish appeared. One reads, for example, "Delicacies such as

:lose offered το τhε beloved princes of Zeus," αηd "dαßητγ dishes of αΙΙ τypes"; iτems
::raι could ηοτ possibly be referring to the simpie, primitive pieces of bloody beef
:oasτed οη the great fireplaces of the megaron. Therefore, feasting must have become
:icher and more interesting, ηοt iust aimed at nourishing and strengthening the body,
ιυτ also at giving pleasure to the palate and the stomach.

ßι is likely that many of the basic Γoodstuffs preseni ßη the Golden Age of Greece rηrere
aiready found ßη the homes of the Odyssean protagonists. Yet it rηras οηΙγ ßη the period
lmmediately folloiving the sixth century thaτ α veτitable reyoluτion ßη dining led το
\Λ/hατ \Λ/e τhßηκ of as τhe τιαdßτßοηαΙ classical meal. This dining style rvas to last, vrith
slighι variaτions, for many cenτuries and inrould constitute the most popular mode of
social entertaiηment υρ το the end of classical civiiization.

During ιhe Homeric epoch, τhere rηrere obviously not the sort of recipes that Tequired
α long 1ßòτ of ingredienτs and insτrucτions: meat ιηταs throrvn οη the fire, ßη αΙ1 likeli-
hood rnrithout much added, ηοτ even α sprig of rosemary. Large baskeτs conιained
mammoτh loaves of bread-unleavened, since yeast \Λras not yet ßη use. It was basically
α τough life, bυτ τhen heroes rnrere also tough, and doubtless they did not \Λ/οττγ much
about such trifles.

ΤΗΕ GOLDEN AGE BANQUET

The classic Goiden Age banqueτ found its beginnings ßη the fifτh cenτury B.c. Νο
longer rπas fire-roasτed mεατ τhε reigning dish. Rather, fish triumphed ßη the kitchen,
becoming τhe main dish: α procession οf filet οf bream, bass, tuna, and lobster vrith α

ναòτ array of mollusks: oystels, razor clams, sea urchins-as many as one could offer,
This rπas τhe beginning also of τhε golden age οf the fishmonger, rvho conquered the
markets of the great City-States.

It is the sea's bounty thaτ preoccupies one of the most expert gastronomes of the
Hellenistic world, τhe Sicilian r,ηrriτer Archesτraτus of Gela. The mαjοτßτγ of his
Hedupaτheia ("The Joys of Εατßηg") is devoted to rnrhere to find and hοτητ to cook the
besτ fish; α kind of early Michelin guide, giving ουt stars. But this is ηο mere recipe
book or gasτronomic guide: ßτ is αη epic verse, stylized ßη heroic hexameter, so beau-
τßfυΙ and sonorous τhατ Aτhenaeus declared the Hedupatheia vras the οηßγ poem that r,ιrise
men should cherish. Whατ is more, it \Mas truly useful. Before instructing the reader
οη horηr το cook α slice of tuna or make α pie out of odds and ends, Archestratus gives
precious advice and ouτlines hο\Λ/ to organize αη elegant and lively ραττγ:
"Of leaτning Ι offer proof το αΙΙ Hellas. . . . Let αΙΙ dine at α single daintily-furnished
ταbΙe. There should be τhree or four ßη αΙΙ, or at most not more than five. Else rηre

should presenτly have α τεητfυΙ of freebooters, robbers of victuals" (Athenaeus I.4e).

Then he moves οη to discuss urhat should be presented αt α meal, Above αΙΙ, one
should ηοτ forget the rηrreaths for the guests'heads: "Alr.ιrays cτο\Λ/η yourself urith α

r,ηrreaτh of αßΙ τhε flornrers that the h"ppy earth produces and perfume γουτ haiτ urith
α distilled ointment."

The vrreaths aTe not αη incidental detail, We see these crornrns οη guests' heads, both
ßη ancienτ frescoes and ßη every fllm that attempts to ftanspoτt us back to the ancient
world. They urere αη integral part of these gatherings and every guest \Δ/ore one,
Obviously, there r.ηrere a]so the beautiful coronets of pure gold, novr seen ßη museums,
ιητhßòh urere buried rnrith their lavishly dressed o\Λ/nels so the latter could paτticipate
ßη τhε afτerlife banqueτs, ßη vrhich they fervently believed. Βυτ τhese lustrous jewels
did not have the necessary curative ρο\Λ/ετs that flol,ηrer and leaf rnrreaths offered; these,
urhen placed οη one's temples, r.ιrere thought to protect the rηrearer from the conse-
quences of excess indulgence, due to their perfumed fragrances. It is true that such
rηrreaτhs, parιicularly τhe suave, coquettish ones made of roses and yiolets, looked

ridiculous οη the heads of old ;udges and scor,ηrling generals, and even more so οη
obese poliτicians. They certainly iooked most decolative rηrhen placed οη the curls of α

handsome youth or α beautiful girl. But el/en the old military men and fat politicians
used them to caim their headaches and guard against intoxication from too much
urine. One famous doctor, Triphonus, explained thατ the flornrer wreaths were ηοτ sim-

ρΙγ ornamental, but served to r,ηrard off drunkenness, migraines, and other maladies.
The fresh, green ßνγ cro\Λ/n that Dionysus alrnrays \Λrore οη his head gave immediate
respiτe fτοm the heat of rπine and even, perhaps by being pressed tightly against τhε
temples, from headache. Roses and violets also appear to have been beneficial: roses
urere consideτed α polπerful sedative, lvhich could instantly cure τhε fiercest migraines.
Other τypes of crorηrns might be prescribed for specific ailmenτs: τhose of henna, sage,
and saffron, for example, favored sleep and provided α lovely, restorative repose, αΙßοιητ-
ing the \Λ/εατει urho had drunk too much to arnrake refreshed and rested, It rηras also
important to vratch out for harmful ones, such as carnations, which caused headaches,
or for those made fτοm srveet marjoram, rnrhich numbed τhε mind. One had το choose
one'S \Λ/Ieath wiseΙy.

So much for the ancient "language of florηrers," Appropriate r,ηrreaths urere handed ουτ
to the guests at every banquet; later οη, during dinneτ, perfumes rnrere also dispensed,
Betrηreen flornrers and perfumes, the banquet hail must have been extremely fragrant,
bυτ even τhis \Λ/αò ηοτ enough for τhε ancients. The day before α gathering rnras to take
place, τhe dining chamber was suffused rηrith scent. Alchestratus $/rote: "Continue αlΙ
day long το τοss myrrh and fτankincense (the fruits of slηreet-smelling Syria) οη the
sofτ ashes of τhe fire." One need οηΙγ read this to understand the need for α good tight
cτο\η/η of ßνγ around the temples.

DOMESTΙC DΙNING FROM ΤΗΕ FΙFΤΗ CENTURY ON\VARD

\Me have looked ατ τhε dining habiτs of τhε heroic Mycenaean Greeks, and rηre have
then heard τhe rnrise counsel that, nine centuτies later, Archestratus gave to those rηrish-
ing το organize τhε ref,ned dinners τhατ dominated the classical urorld. Α great deal
of τßmε had passed since τhε Trojan \Mar. Everything r.ιras changed; the customs were

enriched and reflned. There rηrere, of course, different types of banquets; ιhey varied
according το τhε social and inτellectual siatus of the participants, the host's r.ηrealth,

and the customs and laws οΓ the various parts of Gτeece. Μαηγ of these banquets are
described ßη τhε pages ofAτhenaeus, from the austere dinners of philosophers to
εχτταναgαητ uredding feasτs, from religious festivals to solemn traditions, from sedate
family meals τhατ were εατεη ßη τhε gynaeceum (wheτe the heads of families dined
τητßτh moτhers, rηrives, daughιers, and close female relatives) to r.ηrild, libertine, "men-
οηΙγ" repasts. ]η short, there r,ηrere meals for αΙΙ tastes and incomes.

ΤΗΕ TRANQUIL FAMILY D]NNER ΙΝ ΤΗΕ GYNAECEUM

\Me τ.ητßlΙ first examine τhe everyday meal: the regular family dinner. There are many
examples of these meals porτrayed ßη figurative art: the men are comfortably stretched
ουτ οη τheir ττßòΙßηßα, r.ηrhile τhε rηromen are seated ßη chairs at the margins of the
scene. Iη the rnrorld οf Asia Μßηοτ as rηrell as Greece, \^/omen never ate ßη α reclining
position. For this leason, rηrives and girl children are alrvays shornrn upright, r,ιrith
heads veiled, seated οη chairs \Λ/ßιh high backs and armrests, someiimes vrith foot-
stools. Clothing rηras the mοsτ corτect imaginable and even the men, contentedly rest-
ing οη their left elborv, rηrere cloτhed from neck to toes as they dined (the ancient
equivalent of rvearing α òοατ and tie).
 ,,pical scenes found οη grave stelai are those that repτesent life beyond the grave as α

_.:and, uninτerrupted banquet.The eternal dinner was α Ceremony Testricted to the

'.mily
circle; ηο strangeIs or foreigners appeared, ryhile each and every member of
_e household ιηταs ßη aτtendance. Thus, entire families \Λ/ere depicted with their eyes
red οη τhε dead, each rnrith α cup ßη hand, crorηlded into the limited space of the
:larble relief, Ατ τimes, rvhen the memorial stone τηταs insufficiently large, the men of
:ie family appear packed like sardines, ιητhßΙε the rηromen, deprived of space and need,
_::g τhε habiτual chairs, appear to be perched like sirange birds at one corneτ of the

,:ic]inium. Ιτ rvas imperative, horηrever, that eyeryone be included r,vithin the {ταmε
.rd τhατ αΙ1 r,ηrives and daughters be correctly seated.

_ ß,{Ε UNRESTRAINED BANQUETS OF ΜΕΝ

]reek males generally left their wives to dine rηrith the children i,vhile theμ Γree from
,1e cοηòτταßητs of their loved ones, indulged ßη the unfettered bonhomie of all-male
: ιηνßνßαΙ gaτherings. These gatherings took place ßη the andron, α large room dedicated
: J τhis purpose that rηras positioned near the entrance of the androceum, the part of
-,re house reserved for men only.The \^/omen οf the house-motheIs, rηrives, daugh-

,ers, unmarried sisters-could not enter the andron for αηγ reason ιvhaisoever, not
.\,en το clean it rηrhen it IMas empty. This does not mean, hoyrever, that the dinner
iuests lacked female companionship.

]he rηromen rηrho lηrere permltted to enter the andron did so οη α paid basis. They
ncluded fluτisτs and dancers, but most importantly \Λτοmεη of the oldest profession.
These rηromen, horvever, \Λ/ere not Common Street prostitutes, but rather true Courte-
sans: ref,ned, beauτiful, and very costly.They dominated the social life of ancient
Greece, playing α role similar to that of the legendary Japanese geisha. Μαηγ of them
.,l,ere rπeil educaτed and rηrere even permitτed το αττεηd τhe presτigious philosophy
schools of τhε τßmε, Given theiτ bεαυτγ and high spiriτs, ßτ r.ιras easy for τhem to estab-
lish close τies τνßτh τheir professors, becoming r,vhaτ τοdαγ lιre might euphemistically
call "friends rηrith benefits." Such friendships geneτally granted them exιra evening
classes, vrhere τhε lessons covered τhε most varied subjecι mαττετ. Βγ τhe end of their
sιudies, τhese beauτiful creatures rηrould be ßητεΙΙεòτυαΙΙγ equivalenτ το τoday's dοòτοταΙ
candidaτes, as urell as adept at their most lucrative skills-those of the boudoir-for
 after,The richesτ ciiizens gοι
rnrhich τhεγ rnrere jusτifiably
famous, valued, and sought

intobiddingwaISovelthem,andmanyvroulddrawupContIaCtSforaspecifredιin-ιe
man το αΙΙ his dinner palιies,
agreed ßο accompany the
during ιητhßòh ιhe chosen one
Needlesstosay,sherη.ouldalsoprovidehimι,ηrithaprolongedafτer-dinnertθte-λ-tÝιe.
Manyofthesewomen,whohadaιηrell_honedsystemforpaddingtheirbills'manage:
ioaccumulatevasifbrtunes;rnriselyinvesιed,ιheserichesallorη,edιhemuponreιire-
menitotΤansfolmthemselvesintorespectablephilanιhropisιs.Inorderiounderstand
τheirimporιanceandcontributionstomen,Sbanquets,iτSuffiCeSιOSaythatAthenaeu.
lisΙing the f,rst and
fifτeen (Βοοκ s) το iheir function,
dedicaτed one eητßτe book of
discussing the most
names and addresses of τhe
high-ranking CouIτeSanS, and
ιαòτ
famous among τhem ßη greaι
detail,

\Δ/αs, τherefore, highly promising; Ιhe guest knerv

The premise of τhese mαιe banqueτs
sιart yrith, as soon as α
joyous as ßt was outrageous, Το
to expect α lively evening, as ουτ οττ
his cloτhes' Once he sτreτched
guesτ arrived' he τοοκ ιt'" tιυ"ιγ of shedding
thecouch,hecoveredthelov,.eτhalfofhisbodywithalightdrape,butthisvrasa
merenodtomodestysincethemateτialhidliττleandsιirredιηriτhτheminuιestbreeze.
Thecourtesansdidnoieveιboτherrviιhadrape,puτiingtheirexpensivemerchandise
ondisplayvrithoutairaceofshame.Theafternoonrnrouldunfoldinthemostunbri-
dled fashion possible,

Onecanimagineιhaιanyτhingandeverythingmighτhappenaiihesebanquets,rvhich
lastedformanyhours.FromthebeginningofτhefifthCenιuryonr,ηrard,dinnerguests'
knor,ιringιheyιvereinforalongevenι,goiinthehabiιofbringingtheiτornrn..night
vases,,(chamberpots).Eupolisasked...Well,then,r,ηrhofirsτsaid.slave,achamber_
lasτed for cen_
midst his drinking?" (Aιhenaeus ι , ι 7e), This cυsτοm
potl' ßη the of'
during cerτain
wiτh α few excepτions,The use of chambeτ pots \Λιαs prohibiτed
turies,
religiousfesιiyals,suchastherlιualdinnerinhonorofApollo,heldaτNaucratis,the
homelandofourorηrnAthenaeus.Theywerealsobannedforashorιιimeunderthe
ruleofEmperorHadτian'buττhismaybeascribedιoτhefactthaτhehadinstaιled
excellentsanitaryfaciiiτiesinhissurroundings.Otherrηrise,commodeswereaιrnrays
banqueιS, We hear mεηιßοη
of them right υρ Ιο the end of Ιhe
pIesenτ αß men'S
RomanEmpire'andτheymayindeedhavebeenusedevenlongerτhanτhaτ.Thesejars'
often fashioned out of precious metals, accompanied importanτ people and emperors
ιο their nulnerous banquets. Iη fifth century g.C. ceramics, \Λ/ε see τhem represenιed ßη
,{uests' hands. Unfortunatelμ we also Κηοτητ that chamber ροτs \Λ/ετε used for purposes
liher than the obvious ones. When too much lιrine overheated τhe aτmosphere, and
,erιain old arguments and puckish impulses arose, τhe ροτs made perfecτ projecτiles
,Dr those ß.ητhο did ηοt agree rηrith the ideas being expressed.Aeschylus, ßη one of his
.aιirical comedies, imagined the Homeric heroes so drunk τhατ during α dinner τhεγ
regan to break their pots over each others'heads (Aτhenaeus ι.I7c), r.ιrhile Sophocles,
_r The Achaeans'Dinner-Guest, \η/τοtε: "But ßη α burst of anger he threrηr τhe unsavoury
:οτ, and missed ηοτ; and οη my head the vessel smashed, breaτhing not of balsam,
ld τhε unlovely smeil smote me lviτh frlght" (Aτhenaeus ι.I7d).

'.\-e
can also point to anotlrer scene common to these specτacles, οfτeη shorvn ßη
:lgurative art and liteτature: that of drunken men νοmßτßηg, lviτh τhε aid of α compii-
:rι handmaiden. Το be fατ from such scenes \Λταs one benefit of τhe fαmßΙγ τvomen's
_,rcumscribed role αt this time.

ΗΕ PARASITES
]esides the courtesans, musicians, and dancers-male or female-theτe rvas yet
.:]othel inteτestlng group ofpeople αι these feasτs: the "parasiτes" or parτy-crashers.
,hese rηrere men who insinuated themselves into the feasτ, usually τνßτhουτ ßηνßτατßοη,
,nd often found themselves rηrithout α couch, forced το sßτ οη τhe floor. The
ραταòßτe
],ecame α stock character at ancient Greek banquets as \ηιεlΙ as fodder for τhe comedies
f that era. Some of these hangers-on r,ηrere famous and even tolerated to α large
:\teΠt, because among their chaτacteristics \vere α tαlεητ for good conversaιion, α
.larp r.ιrit, and αη obliging nature. It is evidenτ τhατ τητßτhουτ τhese gifτs, such men
ouid find themselves alone and unable to sclounge υρ α meal. Α potential sponger,
,,,

,ndertaking this path, had to demonstIate αη excepτional sense of humor and α lvill_
-]gness to seτve-only the clever, fun, and useful men \Λ/eIe suffered το òταγ and eατ.

-. rvould be α mistake to think of the Greek sponger as α figure rηrho hoyered ßη τhe
:ackground at α banquet. Οη the contrarΙ he τηΖαs always visible and forrvard.
:-ιhenaeus dedicated α good portion of his sixτh book το
τhe mosτ famous freeloadeτs
ß Greece, men capable of doing anything το assure admiττance το α ryell_laden ταble.
 Corydus
He lisτs seveτal by τheir picτuresque nicknames:Tlτhymallus βhe Greedy),
(the Skyιark), the Goby, the Seed Pot, the Mackerel, and the Littιe
Μeαιγ one

(Aτhenaeus 6,z3sfi). One called Callimedon, oτherrnrise knorπn as τhe Lobsτeτ (or
\ηταò
Athenian fishmongers
Cτayfish); this one \η/αò So uriιdιy fond of Crustaceans that the
proposed erecting α bronze Statue of him, eteτηαιιγ triumphant,
clutching α ιobster

ßη his fisτ.

α couch, τhey urere ηοτ

Generally if τhese parasiτes could ηοτ commandeeI α òροτ οη
above òßττßηg αß τhe feeτ of α guesτ, α praciice Common
enough τhατ ßη one comedy r,ιre

rnriiness α young man of good connections being ambushed

by α fτeeιoader \ητhßιe he

1ηταò recιining ατ α banqueτ. The ροοτ γουτh

ττßeò το shake τhe inτruder off, using every
says, and hesides τhere is
excuse he can τhßηκ of: τhe banqueτ is αι1 bυτ finished, he
iS ηοτ το be discour_
αbòοιυτeιγ ηο Space οη his couch for anyone eιse. Βυι τhe ραταòßτe
aged. Wßτhουτ α τrace of embarrassmenτ, he says, "Νοτ το \Λ/οιτγ: τhατ'ò ηοτ ßmροτταητ

Iη αηγ case," he concludes cheeτfully,

"I'm α fοοτòτοοΙ kind of guy,"
ßη τhe Ιeαòτ.

DISTINCTIVE DINNERS
Platoº Dinners: Logicallμ τhere were also iiterary suppels, as
there are ßη every age,

fτοm ιhose
Dinners among phiιosophers, iimited to men οηlγ, r,ιrere different
ßηιelιeòtυαι merit,
described above, aS one might expect. They vrere certainιy fυιl of
to be sure, bui one geτs τhe sense τhατ τhey ιιτετε hardly sparkling,

Ριαtο vrrote ßη The ic (37z,c) οf the sort of dinner that the ßdeαι citizens of the
Repubι
fish. When his com_
future might share, αη austere meαι notabιy lacking ßη meat and
τhατ τheγ \^,/eIe το be served ηο relishes ατ τheßτ
ραηßοη Glaucon τemaτks τhατ ßτ seemed
deiicacies as òαιt, oιives
austele meaιs, Ριαtο contradicts him: ιhey vrouιd be given such
(Recipe 6), and cheese, as τητeιι as ιαmραòòßοηß, the wiιd hyacinth buιbs that needed α

great deαι of artifice to heιρ them ιose their bitteτ flavor and
render them edibιe
Such
meαι, Ριαtο assured Gιαυòοη, $/aS to be finished ofΓrηrith treats
aS
(Recipe 9).The
ττeατò, τhe guesτS rηrould
frgs, chickpeas, and fava beans. Saτed τriιh such gasτronomicaι
mγττΙe berτies and acorns,
pass τheßτ τßme afτer dinner, seaied around, τhe fire, roasiing
rvhiιe they sipped, obviousιy ßη great moderation, \Λ/ateIed r,ηrine. What more òουιd

one ask of life?

 - ,, αι Supper: Continuing ßη the realm of philosophers, \η/ε have α descripτion of
_, .'l-r, equally sumptuous banquet given by Parmeniscus the Cynic. The dinneτ
., leld ατ τhe home of Cebes of Cyzicus, during τhε feast of Dionysos inAτhens
-,. -.]laeus α. 156-ò8). From τητhαt r.ηre understand, there r.ηrere nine ραττßcßραητò,
i::,]ýs Parmeniscus, there rηras the o\^/nel of the house, plus six cynics, and Carneius
- ].legara.

Ι .:αττ, rivers of lentil soup rπere served (Recipe ι5).They had barely finished it
',Ξ] another type of lentil soup arrived (Recipe I6);next came lenτils seasonedrηriτh

' ::αι. Αt this point, one of the guests, being α Cynic and τherefore feeiing εητßτΙεd
:cspise the shabbiness of life, had reached the end of his paτience. Jumping το his
'::,. rι-ith his hands upraised to the heavens, he prayed that Zeus τ.ητουΙd punish τhe
,,.1','e responsible for drornrning them ßη lentils.Tlvisting the knife furτher, αΙΙ pres-

:, the host, ιηιhο r,ηras responsible for the misdeed, and one guesτ-joined
-except
: .]e prayer. One Cynic, horηrever, came to the defense of τhε lorvly ΙεητßΙ, chiding α
':, -ιι
$11θst named Plutarch (not the historian Plutarch of α later cεητυτγ):"Υeτ, γου
'-::] of fair Alexandria, Plutarch, have been brought υρ οη ΙεητßΙ food, and your εητßτε
- ,,. is ll of lentil dishes" (Athenaeus a.I5sd). Certainly true, but probably also the
-:1>οπ ιvhy poor Plutarch had had enough of them.

_._eed, one should ηοt belittle the lentil: this greatly economical legume played α
:-,:ιor role ßη feeding the less r.ηrell-off. It seems thατ τhe οηΙγ drar.ιrback rηras τhε ηαòτγ
:.Ll ιhατ iingered οη the eater's breath, lιrhich some apparently (or perhaps apoc-
: :lraliy) tried to ameliorate by adding fragrances, Sτταττßs of Phoenicia gave τhese
' ,:ds to his characteτ Jocasta: "I rηrish tο give γου t\νο some r,ηrise advice; ι.ιrhen γου
, .òε lenτil-soup don't pour ßη perfume" (Athenaeus 4, I6oc). Regarding fragrance ßη

:.'ßß1 soup, there ιηταs even α Greek pτoverb, used rηrhen one r,ηranted to indicaτe τhατ
lething has gone amiss. Thus, ßη α theatrical piece by Sopaτer, α characτer exclaims,

-]dl,sseus of lthaca is here; as the saying goes, the perfume is ßη the soup. Have
, xage, my soul!" Ιη αηγ case, ientii soup may have made for bad breath, but it
.:red τhe pulpose of filling the stomach, and α lentil soup is alrvays very tasty. Let
-. ηοτ forgeτ τhατ Esau transferred his birthτighτ το ]acob for α ρlατε of lentils.
 \MEDDιNG BANaUETS

Οf αι1 the ιypes οf banquets, the uredding banquet the most ioyous and {τee {τοm
\Λ/αò

restrictions, and rηre τνßΙ1 present α pair of exampΙes. One describes the rvedding
dinner
mem_
of α miser, r,ηrhiιe τhe oτheI exempιifies α marriage feasτ given by α very τνeαιτhγ
ber of α royal family, as open-handed as the miser rvas penurious,

Ιη the comedy Unveiling of (Kock 3,376;Athenaeus ιa,64ad-e), Euangelus

the Bride

pTeSenιS the miserιy head of house as he orders his sιave about:

Father: Ιtοιd γου to Set fouΙ tabιes for the rηromen and six for the men; the dinner
is to be compιete, and ηοt α thing must be ιacking. We \^/ant the wedding
to be

α bτßιιßαηt one.You don't need to ask questions of anyone eιse;

Ι'ιι teιι γου every_

thing, keeping my eye οη γου the τηΙhßιe. As to the f,sh, γου shalι buy αlß the kinds
got veal, young So\^/S, suckιing_pigs, hares.
γου ιßκe; for tlre meat CourSeS γου have
Cook's boy (aside):What α braggart this damned fellorηr is!

Father:Platteroff,g-leaves[Recipeιz],cheese,mouιdedcakes.
Cook: Βογ there, Dromon!
Father: Α Lydlan sauce, some eggò, α nice meal-cake, , ,

The lηredding feasτ hosτed by Caranus \Λ/αò αη enτirely differenτ sorτ of affair, α banqueι
served according tο the Customs of Alexander ιhe Great's homeιand. Ιη ιhat
Countrμ

τhe bride and groom received gifτs from friends, bυτ τhe hοòτ also gave
gifτs το τhe

guesτs.This cusτom persisτed ßητο τhe l9oos, ßη Greece and elseyrhele: guesτs ατ α ball
or α grand dinner alr.ιrays Ιefτ vriτh α SouveniT. Βυτ τhe gifτs parceled ουß το τhe parτici_
pants αß Caranus's banquet \Λ/ere ηο mere trinkets,

Turenτy guesτs-a selecτ and arisτocraτic group-came to this littie feast, rryhich rηras

desτined το go doιvn ßη hisτory, Everyτhing abouτ ßτ τΛ/αò ηοτe\Λ/οττhγ and exτraordinary,

and ßτ described ßη greaτ deταßl ßη Aτhenaeus's fourth book: the luxurious furnish-
τηταò
meal,
lngs, τhe richness of τhe foods and \Λ/ines, τhe eητeιταßηmeητ τhατ brighτened τhe
and, above αlι, τhe gifτs offered το τhe guesτs.The distrlbuιion of these trifles
began

i.mmediaτely; indeed,, τhe guesτs had barely sprar.ιrled οη τheir couches vrhen each
':_Ξ,ßed α gift of α silver cup, as well as α golden cτο\ητη of inestimable value τhατ lηraò
.,:d οη ιhe guest's head υροη arrival.The rain of precious gifts seemed never το
:.:c: having barely emptied their cups, they vrere each offered α bronze Corinτhian
-. , ιompletely covered lηrith a large loaf of bread. Arτfuliy placed on τop of τhe bread
::- chickens, ducks, doves, geese, and every kind ofmeat. Each guest accepted his
:.'. of food and, after tasting the delicacies, passed τlrem οη το τheir αττεηdαητ slaves.

,,-_.r ιhe next course ιηταs served, and each guest \η/αs presented ιηdth anoτher large
].::ιετ, this time ßη silyer and covered urith α focaccia (Recipe ι), οη ivhiclr were dis-
-".,.,ed roasτ kid goats (Recipe Ζι), geese, specially and individually designed sand-
,_:hes, τhεη pigeons, doves, parιridges, and other wild game. Once again, after the
. _.sιs sampled these dishes, tlrey r.ιrere passed οη to the slayes. Wherr τhe guesτs had
:.:-η τhεßτ fill, τhεγ rηrashed their hands,

--: :}ιßs point, each guest ιηταs offered α flora1 cro\\In, bυτ το render τhe gifτ more lasτ-
-_,1. each rηras also given another golden cro\yn, as heavy and valuable as τhe firsτ.Then
-.:ne various toasts. The guests rηrere oyerrηrhelmed by the excitemenτ, and even more
' rl-hen the flutists, singers, and Rhodian sambuca players enτered. The girls appeaτed
be naked, but may merely have been dressed ßη very transparenτ τunics, When τhe
_:ιists left, α succession οf ner-ιr girls aτrived, each carrying τυτο jars, one silver, τhe
:,irer gold, held together by α golden band and cοηταßηßηg α liτer of perfume. These
.-so rηrere given to the guests. After this, huge, heavy, gold-plaτed silver τrays arrived,
:lch bearing α pig stuffed with αΙ1 sorts of delicacies: thτushes, ducks, rηrarblers, τητhεατ
:llenta lvith egg, oysters, and perirvinkles. As alrvays, each guesτ uras given his οτ,ητη
.:αß and his οιπη pig. Then follorηred boiled kid gοατ οη precious plaτes for each το ταΚe
,,lme, ßη addiτion to golden spoons.

-lSι
then, as the guests asked themselves hοιητ they could manage το carry home such
:jl arlay of gifts, Caranus ordeτed his servants το give his friends baskeτs and chesτs for
.re bread; the chests lηrere fashioned from thin sτrips of ivory. The delighτed guesτs
.rpiauded. Immediately, another gold croιvn and more perfumes ßη jars arrived, ]υòτ
:S costly as the previous gifts. Then follorηred the mοsτ lively enτerτainmenτ, iτhyphallic
dancers (ßη honor of Dionysos), clor.ιrns, and nude acrobats, rvho peτformed r,ηrith τhε

sharpest of sr,ηrords r.ιrhile spouting fire from their mouths.

The ραττγ ηοτ γετ over. Iτ continued ßη grand style: gifts of gold cups and r.ιrines
\η/αs

{τοm Thasos, Mende, and Lesbos r,ιrere passed out, immediately follor,ιred by α crystal

ρΙαττετ for each guesτ. This ρΙαττετ \Λ/αs t\Λ/ο cubits (8ο cm) ßη diameter and rnras sup-
ported beneath by α silver τταγ, full of every type of fish and seafood imaginable
(Recipes Ζ6-+9) \Λ/ßτh ßτ came yet more silver baskets, with loaves of Capadocian
bread. When τhε guesτs had εατεη α morsel, they passed the rest tο the siaves. Again,
τhεγ washed their hands, and, ττυΙγ pampered, \Λ/ere plesented rηrith yet anoτher
golden cup, τhis one ττητßòε as heavy and valuab]e as the others. With it came another
double vase of perfumes for each guest.

They began το drink ßη earnest. One of the guests called for α gallon-sized cup, had
ßτ fllled rnriτh Thasian urine uriτh barely α drop of rηrater added, and promptly drank ßt
dorηrn, saying, "The more one drinks, the fειητετ oηe's \Λ/οεs." Caranus, full of admira-
tion for this feat, gave him τhε cup and offered to do the same for αηγ urho folloιηred
suit. ΑΙΙ tried and succeeded except for one. The lailure sat and \Λ/ept at his lack of suc-
cess, but his host consoled him by giving him α cup αηγ\^/αγ.

Meanwhile, τhe εητετταßηmεητ continued as α hundred-man chorus sang α wedding

song, follor.ιred by dancers dressed as Nereids and nymphs. Time passed pleasantly and
night fell. Suddenly the r.ηrhite linen curtains that surrounded the room flerηr open. The

amazed guests rηrere τreaτed to α remarkable scene: against the dark background of the
garden, statues appeared representing Cupids, Dianas, Pans, and Hermae, and each
held ßßt ιorch. As the guests marveied at this sight, they rηrere each served α large lιrild
α
boar laced υρ ττßτh silver filigree and arrayed οη α square, golden platter. For ιηrhaτever
reason, either the beauty of τhε presentation οι the gift itseli this last and most unex-
pecτed gßfτ ρυτ αΙΙ τhε guesτs ßητο τhε highest of spirits. Meanwhile, τhε slayes sτarted
to pTepare for the Teturn home, packing the gifts into the ivory chests. The guests οηΙγ
arηraited the Macedonian cusτom of trumpets heralding the close of the banquet. Yet,
still they drank, but nornr from small cups, r.ιrhile α comedian enteltained them. Finally
more ivory chests arrived, this time urith desserts-s\Λ/eets of αΙΙ types from Cretan to

]6
, . :,_,an-each pτesented ßη αη elegant box, much as sugared almonds are doled out at

-:,.'s ltalian and Greek weddings.The guests, grateful and overioyed, bid τheir hosτ
. :-bl,e, i,vishing him the best from the bοττοm of τheir hearτs.

ro surprise, then, tο hear that Hippolochus the Macedonian, one of the guesτs,
-

:. . α detailed account of the banquet ßη α letter to his friend Lynceus, rvho had had
::ai-behind inAthens (Athenaeus 1.ι28-I3od).The former teased the latter saying
,,. rιlrile Lynceus remained atAthens to celebrate the Lenaean festival, eating the tra,
, _,ηαΙ feast day bread, flavored rvith arugula and thyme, Hippolochus and his fellorηl
. -..τs "have carried α\η/αγ α fortune from Caranus's banquet instead οf trifling por-
, s, and are ηο\^/ looking for houses or lands or slaves to buy"

GREEK MENUS

:::αßηlγ not αΙ1 meals r.ηrere ivedding feasts, and the fare offered at α cheery dinner
, iriends rryould be less elaborate. Regardless of τhε size of τhε meal, ßτ ιvas generally
-,]οτιαηt to be mindful of expenses.

- ]ELICIoUS ΥΕΤ ECONOMICAL ΜΕΝυ

,,. Γourth-third century poet Alexis, ßη Crateus,
_ or The Apothecarμ gives us αη example
: -.l,hat,
during his time, lηrould have been considered α simple menu, as rryell as οττε
rfΓer οη the spur of the moment to those defined ßη Greek as "friends of sαlτ and
:ins"; that is to say, those intimate fτiends urho rryou]d share α meal of jυsτ beans and
. :ιι of salt. Iη this comedy, one οf τhe characτers lisτs τητhατ he finds ατ τhε markeτ το
,::pare for such α meal:

First, then, 1 spied oysters, r,vrapped ßη searveed, ßη the shop οf αη o1d Μαη of the
Sea, and sea-ιιrchins ιοο [Recipe 8];Ι grabbed them; for they are the prelude to
α daintlly ordered dinner. Next, Τ came υροη some ΙßιtΙε fish, αΙΙ trembling for
fear of what rvas tο happen to them. But Ι bade tlιem have ηο fears as far as Ι was

concerned, promising that Ι ιι.ουldη'ß harm α sing}e one, and bought α large
greyfish. Then Ι took αη elecιric ray-fish [Recipe 38], being mindful ιhat rηlhen
α lady lays tender fingers υροη it she mιιst ηοι suffer αηγ hurt from its thorny
 touch. For the frying-pan 1 got some wrasse, sole, shrimp, jack hake, gudgeon,
perch, and sea-bream, and made the dlsh gayel than α peacock. Then came some
meats-feet, snouts, and svrines'ears [Recipe ι9], and liver rvrapped ßη caul; for

it is ashamed of ßτs ovrn livid coior. Νο professional cook shall come neal these,
οι even ΙοοΚ υροη them. He will rue it, let me tell γου. Raιher, Ι shall myself act

as stervaτd, so cleverlμ so smooιhly, and elegantly (yes, 1 shall make the dish

myself), tlrat Ι shall cause the feasters novr and then to push their teeth into the
plates for very joy.The prepalation and composition of αΙΙ these foods Ι am ready

to disclose, proclaim, and teach for nothing if anybody rηrishes to learn, (Kock
Ζ.Ζ33; Athenaeus 3. Iο7)

Thus, ιητε have α menu consisτing of α seafood antipasto, boiled or roasted frsh, fried
fish, α mixed grill, and, finally α bit of liver ßη α net. What's more, \Λτε find α generous
cook, rηrilling to shaTe his secrets.

Α DELUXE DINNER
Sometimes α host spared ηο expense and filled the table τητßth αη unending variety of
dishes, From τητhαt τητε have read, ure note that α Greek banquet betrη,een the fifth and
fourth centulies B.C. \Λ/αs αη extremely serious dining experience, τη,ßth so many and
such α variety of offerings that even if one merely tasted ιητhαt r.ηras offered, one rnrould
haye το have α superhuman αρρετßtε to reach the end, Philoxenus of Cythera ßη α ρßαγ
called The Banquet (PlG 3.6oι;Athenaeus +.|+6-47) lists more than thirty-five courses.
Even if many of these servings consisted of bread, sandrηriches, οτ focaccia, the list of
offerings was enough tο make even Gargantua and Pantagruel blanch.

And slayes ιτναßη brought υηßο us α table with iη.el1-oiled face, another for others,
rηrhile other henchmen bore α third, until they filled the chamber. The tables
glistened ßη the rays of τhε high-slvinging iamps, fτeighted rvith trenchers and
condiments delectable ßη cruets, fuli. .. and luxuriant ßη divers artful inventions
to pleasure life, tempting lures of the spirit. Some slaves set beside us snowy-
topped baτley cakes ßη baskets, vrhile others (brought ßη ioaves of rι,,heat).After
them flrst came ηοt αη ordinary tureen, my love, but α riveted vessel of huge
size; ... α glistening dish of eels to break our fast, full of conger-faced morsels
 ιlται lιrould delight α god [Recipe 3I].After this another pot οf the same size

caIne ßη, and α soused ray oΓperfect roundness.There rηrere small kettles, one

containing some meat of α shark [Recipe 3ò], another α sting-ray [Recipe 3ο].
-\τιother rich dish ιhere rvas, made of squid and sepia-polyps rvith sofτ τenτacles

[Recipe α7]. After this came α grey mullet hot from its contact τητßτh fire, the
lιhole as large as the table, exhaling spirals of steam,Afτer this came breaded
squid, my friend, and cooked pra\\Ins done brourn. Foliowing tlrese we had
flor,ver leaved cakes and fresh confections spiced, pufΓ-cakes of wheat τνßτh frosτ-

ing, large as the pot.This is called the "navel of the feast" by γου and me. Last
ι}rere came-ιhe gods are my wltnesses-a monstrous slice of tυηηγ [tuna],
baked hot, from over the sea where it r,ηras carved lvith knives from the meatiest
part οf the belly [Recipe 32].

:-,-lrenus Continues his description of the meats and others CourSeS Served, So
_::lerous that the poet lost count, listing them one after the other ßη αη inτerminable
_:,- og: enτrails, tripe, Ιοßη, and leg of domesτic pig, kid gοατs cut ßη hali the legs,
::,. ribs and head of α pig (Recipes Ζ4 and Ζ5), and α filet flavored rηrith silphium
,-] e\tinct plant also used medicinally). Nor did ßτ sτορ τhere, because τhε narraτor
..':es that rηrhen these morsels were gone, the containers were rηrithdralyn and
:::aced by others: "Kid and lamb, boiled and roast, and sweeτesτ morsel οf under-
:le enτIails from kids and lambs mixed, such as the gods loye, ... jugged hare, and
,:rrg
cockerels, and many hot portions of partτidge and ring-doyes \Λ/ere ηο\Δ/
..,shly laid beside us. Loaves of bread there rvere, light and nicely folded; and com-
:.:roning there came ßη also yeiloinr honey and curds, and as for cheese...." And
, ,:h τhßs, and thankfully, the banquet ended and τhε guests yrashed their hands.

'.:ge amounts of food, but one does not hear mention of αηγ vegetables, either
_, lked or Iaw, ηοτ s\Λ/eets or fruits, erren though these exisτed and vzere consumed

,'' good quantity. From citations of fifth-century Greek auτhors rnre have α record of
, rich fruits
and vegetables r.ηrere sold ßη the Greek market of the era.
 REGIONAL GASTRONOMY AND CUSΤOMS

ΑΙΙ Greeks gaτheIed τogeτher το feasι, bυτ they did not eat the same things nor did they
eατ ßη τhe same sτyle everyr.ιrhere. Greece, ßη fact, r.ηras divided into its numerous city-
òτατeò, each ροßßτßòαΙΙγ and economically independent of-and often enemies vrith-
αΙΙ τhe oτhers, This independence exτended to the ατεηα οf gastronomy and the rules
for producing one's banqueτs. We read ßη Diphilus's TheWomanl4/ho Left Behind Her

Husband (quoτed inAτhenaeus 4.ι33c; Kock Ζ.545) thατ τhe cook, before choosing α
menu, asked rιrhere τhe guesτs r.ηrere {τοm. The head of the house impatiently asked
τητhατ τhe devil difference ßτ τητουΙd make, υροη ιηrhich the chef explained that there
rηrere differeni τaSτeS and manners ßη the various cities of Greece and that to be able
ιο please τhe guesτs, he needed tο knoyr rnrhere they came from.Thus, ιητε learn that
τhe people οf Rhodes above allloved eating "large sheat-fish" (shad?) or α lebias (αη
unidenτified fish) and τhey expecτed ßτ το be served hot, Ιη Byzantium, οη the other
hand, τheγ made everyτhing ßητο soup and seasoned it with quantities of absinthe
(bßττετs), garlic, and sαΙτ.

Menander ßη his ºτορhοηßυs (again, quoted ßη Athenaeus 4. ι32e; Kock 3.I3Ζ) repeaτs
τhis ßηfοτmατßοη. Iη τhis comedμ rηrhen discussing rvhat to offer α foτeigner for dinner,
one of τhe speakers said τhατ one had to Κηοι.ητ lηrhere α guest came from because it
rηrould make α difference το τhε chef For example, those coming from τhε Greek
islands \Λ/ειε accusτomed το εατßηg α great dea1 of fish of αΙ1 kinds, but they ate it fresh,
ουτ of τhε sea, and rηrere τherefore "not at αΙΙ atiracted to preserved fish." If they were
obliged το εατ ßτ τhατ uray, τhεγ rvould do so unrnriilingly; they vrould prefer "force-
meaτs and highly seasoned dishes." The Arcadians, οη the other hand, perhaps because
τheγ lived far from τhe sea, rπere fascinated rηrith anything marine, especially biyalves,
ιηrhile the lonians appreciated οηΙγ hearty rich foods "that provoke desire."

These remarks make sense if one undeτsiands that each city made α shor.ηr of disap-
proving αΙ1 that pertained to ßτs rivals, and that each city made fun of the others.
Regional criτiques, above αΙΙ τhose made by the comedic dramatists, \Λ/ετε not just
based οη τhε cusτoms οf each poiis but also οη the characteristics of its citizens. These

1abs could be highly εηιετταßηßηg and everyone took part, laughing at the Athenians,
 , - SpaItans, theThebans, and even the Greek colonials of Syracuse andTaranτum alike,
Ξ.:h )est centered οη the regional characteristics, the preferred food choices, and τhε
,es and caprices of each group, and ηο one \η/αs spared. Let us examine these ßη
_ -_ck succession, starting with mythic Athens, the cradle of civilization and αττ.

- _,lENS
-..e ,\thenian menu \Λ/αs the butt of many dramatists' jokes. From their r.ιrritings, rve
.--.]\\-that lt rvas composed of α series of bite-sized tastes, diverse but small.This cus
η perslsts even today. One needs οηΙγ to go to ΡlαΚα and ask for ουΖο, the anise-
_.-.,ored Greek liquor, to find that one geis α seτies of Ιßτdε biτes ιηιßτh τhε drink, τhe
, =inber and quality οf the offerings depending οη the level of τhe establishment. Even
]]:ο τhε recent past, Greek Ιατν prohibited esιablishments from serving ουΖο ιητßτhουt
..ο serving food. Ι remember αη open-air locale ßη remotest Crete, where the tables
.,,-ere left over from the last urar-huge, round barrels τhατ once held fuel for τhε
-::rerican fleet. There, seated under the stars, we ordered glasses of ουΖο and r,vaτched
.. ιhe rηraiter arrived, staggering under the rveight of α large tray, rvhere, besides our
.:eriτii there r,ηrere numerous plates heaped wiτh such foods as τhe Greek comedic
]:amatists lηrrote about tr.ιrenty-five hundred years ago. The menu had not changed
,-:rce the age of Pericles. Ιt ιvas α delicious \Λ/αγ to pass αη afιernoon, but it rηras ceτ-
.ßηΙγ ηοτ α meal tο satisfy. Nevertheless, this repast, today ραττ οf τhε Greek aperiτif if
::ultiplied several times over, τητουΙd have constituted the entire ancient Athenian meal.

l-early one can assume α bit of exaggeration οη the part of τhε comic r,ηrriτers, and
:robab}y such skimpy fare rηras more characterisτic of αηòßεητ eaτeries τhαη privaτe
.'omes. But for those rηrho did not ο\η/η α home, this τηταs rηrhat the market offered and
,le comedianAlexis fromTunis, ßη his Running Mates (Athenaeus a.I37c-d), had ßt said
: ] one of his characters that he ought το hire τhe τlητο besτ cooks ßη τhε òßτγ, because,
_rιending tο invite α guest from Thessaly, he did ηοτ \Λ/αητ το expose said guesτ το τhε
.,,pical Athenian offeτings: "I must ηοt streτch τhε genιleman οη τhe rack οf famine by
.:ingily setting before him each little dish separately."

\long the same lines, Lynceus, ßη The Centaur, makes fun of Ατhεηßαη dinners and τheir
:umerous minute portions, so small that they rvould not even be shared r,ηrith α friend:

21
 For Ιhe cook sets before γου α large tray οη rvhiclr are five small plaτes.
Potron:

One of these holds garlic, another α pair of sea-urchins, anoτher α sr,ηreeτ urine
sop, another ιεη cockles, ιhe last α sma]l piece of sturgeon. While Ι am eating
Ιhis, another is eating that; and rvhile he is εατßηg thατ, Ι have rrrade arvay ινßτΙι
thls. What Ι lvant, good sir, is both the one and the other, but my rvish is impos-

sible. For Ι have neither five rrrouths nor five right hands. Such α Ιαγ-ουτ as τhατ
Seems to offer varietχ buτ ßι is ηοτhßηg at αlß to Satisfy the belly. For Ι simply
bespatter my lips, Ι don't fill them. What, then, lrave γου?
Cook: Α lot of oysters.
Patron:You selve me α plate of them, αlΙ by itsel{ and ηοτ α small one, eiτher. Have

γου sea-urchins?
Cook:Yes, ofthese γου shall have α second coulse. For Ι bought them myself,
fourpence (S obols) wolth.
Patron:This Ιhen is the one dish γου shall serve by lτself τhaτ αlΙ may eατ ßτ alike-
not Ι one thing, my companion another (Athenaeus 4. I3If-I3zc; Kock
3:z74).

Given these examples, it does not seem likely thατ Aτhenians ατε τητeΙl. Iη fαòτ, severaι
authors PoItray the Athenian dinner as eyen \^/orse than τhατ of τhε ausτere Sparτans. Iτ
dePended, moleover, οη the historical moment that the auτhor τηττοτe αbουτ. The Ιοτητ
Point ßη Athenian dining rvas probably under τhε rule of Solon (sixτh-sevenτh cenτury
B,C.), α harsh legislator \Λ/ho set sftict limits οη every form of luxury. He even vrroτe
that one should οηΙγ serve economical, rustic barley bread ατ dinner: τηιheατ bread
r,nras condoned οηΙγ οη special occasions. Solon did ηοτ stop τhere:
he imposed οη τhe
citizens αη absolute prohibition οη the purchase of imporτs. His felΙοß,ητ ciτizens τοοκ
him at his rvord; they ηοt οηΙγ observed his laws, buτ caτried τhem το τhe
ροßητ of
absurditY. Chrysippus ßη his tract Οη Pleasure and Good (Aτhenaeus
+.τ7η ιecουητò τhατ
ßη the lYceum and the academy there rηrere τ$/ο τταdßτßοηαΙ banqueτs held every year.
Once, α cook for one of these feasts dared tο carry ßη α casserole dish desτined for
Some other use, and the indignant sufferers, beiieving τhατ τhe cook ιηταò gυßΙτγ of
smuggling, broke the dish into pieces. ΑρρατεητΙγ τhßs food dish repròsenτed τhe òοττ
of extravagance that Solon had banned, though τητhατ could be seen as "eχftαναgαητ"
about α baking dish remains α mystery today. Cerτainly ßτ rvas more reprehensible
 :len α cook, ßη preparing α dinner, ρΙαγfυΙΙγ fashioned some salted meat to ΙοοΚ like
. :sh. This cook ιηταs flogged "Γor playlng the impostor τητßτh his over-refinement."

: {RTA
,:e Sparτans rvere alrvays the preferred target of αΙΙ types of comedians. Even tοdαlι
, :]en τhis ciτy is menτioned, one τhßηΚs of τhe sτrict larnrs drafted by Lycurgus, tlre
.:sh Sparτan life sτyle, and the famous and infamous communal table, the οηlγ place
: ,r hiclr òρατταη males might take τheir meals. Obligatory dining, yes, but not free; ßη
-.:ι
τhe communal ταblε had nothing whatsoever to do rηrith modern ideas of α social
: rιellare sταιε. Thele \Δ/αs ηο help for those urho did not rηrork and could not be use-
_^. το τhe community. Ιt τηταs mandated that equal portions \η/ετε given to αΙΙ αt meals
.:ld ßτ rηras furτher required that αΙ1 participants rryould cover the expenses for the
:laiιrτenance and upkeep of the communal table. Everyone contributed equallχ giving
,:,,,enτy-eighτ liτers of barleμ forty-trvo ]iters of rvine, plus α certain quantity of cheese

..,d figs, and ßτ rvas also expected that each ραγ the sum of ten Egypiian obols tor.ηlard
,le purchase of meat. Men could add someτhing extla, as α gßfτ to ιhe òοmmυηßτμ
. ,ιι ßι could ηοτ be purchased goods: οηΙγ animals τhεγ had raised or game τhey had
_.rιured τhemselves.Those rηrith flocks gave lamb and goats; others gave ringdoves,
..ese, τurτledoves, τhrushes, blackbirds, or rabbits.The cook, rηrhen serving these
:ιerings, announced the name of tΙιε one lιrho donated it, and the donor probably
-.ceiyed α rηrell-deserved round οf appiause for his patriotism.

_:τe daily fare was ρlαßη and sparse. Iτ rηras lisτed ßη full by Dicaearchus ßη his Tripoliticus
ΞGH z.z4z,;Aτhenaeus 4. I4Ib):barley bread, α slice of boiled pork that could not
.,, eigh more τhαη αη etto (one quarτer of α pound), to rvhich rηras added the broτh
:ιιm boiiing τhe meat, and sometimes they even had olives (Recipe 6), cheese, and
,lιne figs, and rηrhatever roasted meat the donors brought. Οη top οf this, they drank
. òιιρ of rvine.

l.ι τhe end of τhis delicious repast, the young boys lvere given αη extra bit of food,
_nanced by τhε rηrealthiest citizens, whi]e the ροοτ \η/ere compensated by being
.,lowed to take α portion of reeds or stra\η/ to reinforce their drrye]lings. The boys' extra
:rτion of food consisted οf barley flour (imagine something like polenta), flavored

23
\Λ/ßth οßΙ, and theyoung boys avidly ate it with αη added bay leaf Cherving bay leaves
αt the end of α meal was α pleasure not just reserved for the
γουτh, bυτ αη ancienτ
Gτeek habit. Callias (or Diocles) wroτe, ßη The Cyciopians: "Here come τhe dish of leaves,
ιητhßòh means αη end to ουι dinners and our dances as rryell" (Athenaeus 4, I4oe).
(Who ινουΙd be able to dance οη such α diet rηrill alr.ιlays remain α mγòτeτγ.) Today ßτ
seems truly Sftange that the tough bay leaf rηrould be αη attracτive desserτ, bυτ back
then they picked it clean.

Often these Spartan communal meals rηrere dominated by α famous black soup-a
local specialty as characteristic of Sparta as ρßΖΖα is of Naples and saf{τon-flavored
Iisotto is of ΜßΙαη, This dark soup seems το have had α disagreeabie flavor. As pluτarch
relates ßη his life of Lycuτgus, α certain king of Pontus τηταητεd το sample τhis soup
and he senι for α Sρατταη chef to prepaτe ßτ. The king had barely put the spoon ßη his
mouth rηrhen he grimaced r,vith disgust. The cook let it be Κηοτητη τhατ ßτ rηras ηοτ his
fault τhat τhε monarch did ηοτ like τhε soup: "Sir, tο make this broth relish,
γου
should haye bathed yourseif first ßη the river Eurotas"' that is, ßη Sparτa's river. Iτ seems
that the rest of the Spartans not οηΙγ sτηιαΙΙοιητεd τhßs soup, bυτ ατε ßτ ßητßτh pleasure and
added their bread to it, τυτηßηg it black as coal.

Besides their food, Spartans rηrere also pilloried for their τυsτßòßτγ and ignoτance.
Exemplary of such sport is τhe ταΙε of α Spartan i.ιrho, finding himself ßη α more
refined citχ rvas invited to α sumptuous supper, The antipasτo
ρΙαττετ rvas heaped υτßτh
foods completely υηΚηοτητη to him, including beauτiful sea urchins (Recipe s),The
unschooled youth took one and, ßη fτοητ of his surprised, amused, and incredulous
fellorηr guests, put τhe r,ηrhole sea urchin ßη his mouth: egg, shell, sharp spines, and
α1l. Naturally \Λ/ßth his first bite, he found himself ßη αη arvkrηrard ροòßτßοη, bυτ, being
α Spartan, he could not falτer. Struggling to keep his composure, he continued to
cherry τhε lηricked τhing until he desτIoyed it completely. Triumphant, though ßη agony,

he declared: "Υου malicious animal.You did not gετ me. I lητοη, me! Βυτ one τhßηg
is certain, ßη the future Ι τητßΙΙ never eat another sea urchin." Never rηras α νο\Λτ more
truly respected,
-:,Ξ3ΕS
],,:lans \Λ/ετε said to be the most tight-fisted of the Greeks and τheir meals rηrere
:..,:ibed as truly miserable.The historian Cleitarchus, ßη τhε firsτ book of his hisτory
, ,:_,exander, relates that whenThebes r.ηras destroyed by that king, τhε ciτy's collecτive

:, ιh \Λ/αs iess than 44ο talents. Perhaps ιhis ιvas the reason for their frugal meals.
, _ .ir suppers \Λ/ετε scraped together fτom thrion (stuffed fig leaves) (Recipe ιΖ),

- ,_<ed vegetables, anchovies, little fish (Recipe Ζ9), sausages, οχ ribs, and bean
- ::idge. This rηras exactly rvhat Atιaginus, son of Phrynon, served tο τhε Persian
.i-donius and fifty of his military men, r,ηrhen τhε former ßηνßτεd τhem το his house.

,.ιιarchus rvrote gleefuliy: "I believe that [the Persians] could not have won the
-..,ie, and that the Greeks need not have met them ßη battle-array at Plataea, seeing
, :,: ιhey already had been done to death by the food" (Athenaeus α,IaSd-f).

.: Ξ.\ΤΕR GREECE: TARANTUM

,-_Tarantum (modern¹ranto) οη the Ιtαlßαη coast, by cοητιαsτ, life τηιαò qυßτε agreeable
.-:d the food τηιαs excellent.TheTarantans did ηοτ bother pinching pennies and τhεγ

_
=ιied every day. Once α month public sacriflces rηrere made and the victims' roasted
,-._-αt \η/αseaten, buι even οη otheτ days the people \η/ere ηοt parτicularly ρeηßτeητ and
.:ßι,αιε citizens pτoduced succulent dinners.TheTaτantans fεΙτ τhαt, r,vhile other men
: rnsidered it necessary to amass riches tο αΙlοτηι them to live ßη luxury someday,
,:Iantans did not waste time: "they themselves, τηιßth their parties and τheir pleasuτes,
]] ηοτ ρυτ off living, but live already" (Aτhenaeus a,ι66e*f).

HELLENISM AND ALEXANDER ΤΗΕ GREAΤ

'.\'iτhAlexander
τhε Great (;s6-368 l,c.), one enters the Hellenisτic era and αη
:\ιταναgαητ and rich ιyorld. Ιη fact, not much is known about τhe dieτary habits
lf Alexander except for his passion for apples, especially τhose from Babylonia
,\τhenaeus 7,z76f-z77a).This youth \Διαs α rηrarrior: young, good-looking, stIong
.nd capable of enduring hunger and thirst r.ηrithout turning α hair, bυτ also one r,vho
'.ιαs driven to the rvorst excesses, even rηrhen he rηras stili α boy.This is demonstτaτed

ιß τhe battle of the apples, ßη rηrhich Alexander and his friends filled τhεßτ bοατ ιητßτh
the fruiτ, shoved off, and using τhεm as projectiles, improvised α lively bαττΙε. Νο
one died, but there rnrere plenty of rηrounds,

Alexander may have loved good, healthy apples, but he also loved α less innocuous
item: lvine. It is said he drank ßτ pure and ßη huge quantities, ofτen ending υρ τhοτ-
oughly dτunk. This vice rηras blamed for both his early deaτh and his sexual indiffer_
ence-a failing that, hourever, did not preclude him from marrying Roxane, Oxyarτes'
daughter, and fathering α child by her. Neverτheless, rηrhen Alexander moved το Asia, he
left his ß.ηιßfε behind, bυτ he permitted his men's misτresses το sup and drink wßτh τhεßτ
menfolk. Ιt τηταs at one of these drunken, mixed-gender enτertainmenτs τhατ ΡτοΙemγ'ò
celebrated Athenian mistress, Thais, convinced Alexander to set fire το Xerxes' palace.

There r.ηrere α gleat many magnificent banquets ßη Alexander's life. Sometimes so

many people invited that there was not enough room foτ τhem αΙΙ το repose οη
\η/ετε

couches, and the guests ended υρ sitting. But even ßη these cases-as, for example, ατ
the banquet serving over six thousand officials-the meals rvere splendid and τhe
guests had seats made of silver. The expenses for dinners τhατ he offered his friends
lηrere fantastically high: more than one hundred minas r.ηrere expended το feed òßχτγ
οτ seventy people. Given that α mina rηras r,ηrorth roughly 4,333 kilos of siiver, τhe cosτ
peΤ guest r,ηras αbουτ 6Ζ-7Ζ kilos of silveτ.

Alexander's fτiends \η/ειε ηο less extravagant and ιhey shorved ßτ above αΙß rvhen τheγ
invited the young conqueror το dine. Agaτharchides of Cnidus ßη his Αßαη Affairs
(FGH 3.ι96) tells us that one such host had all the desserτs wrapped ßη gold leaf, Every
time the guests took one, they peeled off and tossed τhe gold οη ιhe floor τητßτh τhε
other garbage to shorηr their admiration for such extravagance. Νο dουbτ τhe slaves
profited from this display of casual extravagance as τhεγ τοοΚ ουτ τhε deluxe garbage.

EXPENSES

Needless to say the average person did not spend as freely οη his εητετταßηmεητs as
did Alexander, Menander, ßη his comic ρΙαγ Drunkenness (or The Carouse), calculaτes τhατ
α 1arge banquet cost about one τalent (Allinson 4oz;Athenaeus 4. 146 d-e): "So then,
our prosperity accords not urith the vray ßη rηrhich τητε offbr sacrifice. For τhough το
ιhe gods Ι bring αη offering of α tiny sheep boughτ for τεη drachmas
fεqυßναΙeητ το
+-4.5 g of silver, or U.S. $z-8],and glad Ι am to get ßτ so cheap;buτ for fluτe-girls
and perfume, harp-girls, Mendean andThasian rηrine, eels, cheese, and honeμ τhe cosτ
is almost α talent [6,οοο drachmas]." Menander speclf,es neiτher τhε number of guesτs
nor the type of banquet, but α talent (Ζ6 kg οf silver) v,,ould be roughly equivalenτ το
lour or five thousand U,S. dollars. Even today, for α recepτion or dinner for 100 το 150
guests, one could spend about this αmουηt-wßτhουτ, ηατυταΙΙγ, τhe giri-fluτisτs, girl_
rarpists, or fragrances. I rηrould say that α vrell-heeled hοsτ of τοdαγ τητουΙd compre_
1end τhese prices and see them as α compalable ουτΙαγ.

_nnkeepers'food bills, often horribty inflated, \η/ετε τhe subjecτ of ;okes τhen as ηοτητ.

_η α comedy called The Μαη with α Cataract (Apeglaucomenos) byAlexis (Kock Ζ.366;
\thenaeus 3.ιι7), \η/ε see α customer r,ηrho refuses tο ραγ his share of α social lunch if
:ae innkeeper does not ;ustify the bill iine by line. The scene seems το demonsτIaτe
,ºατ ατ such gaτherings there are those urho use the group's good faith το profit τhεm-
.elves, as rηrell as those rnrho are naturally mistrustful.

[Customer]: If γου don't render me αη account of each item ßη deιail, γου

...

shall not get from me α trvelfth part of α farιhing.

[Owner]:What γου say is reasonable. Bring α counting-board and counters.

[CustomeI]: Name the items.

fOwner]: Rατη. salt fish, f,ve farthings [obols].

[Customer]: Next!

[Owner] : Mussels, seven farthings.

[Customer]:You haven't cheated yet. Next!

fOwner]:Those sea urchins, α ha'penny [ι obol].

fCustomer]:Your conscience is still clean,

[owner]:After that wasn't there the cabbage rvhich γου αΙΙ loudly praised?
[Customer]:Yes; it was really good.

[Owner]: Ι paid α penny for that.

[Customer]: Whμ Ι rvonder, were \ητε so loud ßη praising it?

fOwner]: The cube salt-fish cost three ha'pence.

27
 [Customer]: Α bargain, indeedl And for the endive γου haven't charged α

single penny!

[Olvner]:You don't know, simpleton, the state of the market, and ιhαι τhe
rηreevil have eaten υρ αΙΙ green salads.

[Cusιomer]: So that's rvhy γου have charged double for the salt-fish?
|Owner]: The fishmonger is to blame; go and ask him. Next come the conger eel,
five pence [ιο obols].

[Customer]: That's ηοt much! Name the next.

[Owner]: Ι boughτ τhε baked fish for α shilling.

fCustomer]: Οτηι! Like α felrer-it leaves one, then rises high again.

[Olvner]: Add the ιvine, of which Ι procured more rnrhen γου were drunk; three
bottles, at five pence [10 obols] the bottle.

\ΜΙΝΕ AND ΤΗΕ SYMPOSIUM

According το mγτh, grapevines, and consequently rvine, \^/ere the gifts of Dionysos.
This god hailed from Egypt, where vineyards rπere already under cultivation by
4οοο B.c. Ατ some ροßητ Dionysos sailed for Greece, carrying the precious grapevine
r,ιrith him. Legend holds that during the journey, the divine ship uras i^,raylaid by
pirates, τητhο bound τhε handsome young god ßη chains. ΟηΙγ the ρßΙοt of the piraτe
ship recognized the supernatural ladiance of the captive, and he begged his com-
panions ηοτ το offend τhε soliτary sailor, but ßη ναßη. So much the rnrorse for them:
Dionysos bursτ his chains and τurned τhε offending pirates into dolphins. Archaeol-
ogisτs have unearτhed α beauτiful ceramic cup from the sixth centuly B.c, representing
τhis mγτh: τhε god sτeers τhe ship, rvhose main mast is tr,ηlined rηrith α huge vine hang-
ing ß,ιιßτh gIapes, rηrhile τhε piraτe-dolphins leap ßη the rnraves.Thus Dionysos came to
the shores of Greece and introduced his plant and his rηline,

Men τοοΚ such liking το τhis beverage, faτ stronger than today's ιητßηε, that they soon
α

began το poison τhemselves υτßτh ßτ. Greek authors relate that many early imbibers
ended υρ dead, crazy or alcoholic under the influence of pure r.ηrine. Herodotus \Λ/ιοtε
that the Spartan king Cleomenes, having lived among the Scythians, α sa]/age ρορυΙα-
τßοη devoτed το sτrong drink and τherefore to drunkenness, had begun to drink like
 ,:)e savages and gradually rvent mad from ßτ (Hisτory 6.84).Thereafτer, every τßme τhe
: _.:ιαηs rηranted to be served something stlonger, they ordered the wine merchanτ το

.:_ake 1τ like τhε Scythians" (Athenaeus ιo.4z7b-c).There rηrere many rvho "drank
],: Scyτhians," ηοt the least of whom rηras the young heroAlexander the Great
:.13ac-d).

-' ,η after τητßηε τηταs introduced, man had already begun το abuse ßτ and αòτ like mad-
,.::r, Ιt ιναs οηΙγ when man learned to dilute the wine thατ ßτ became as saΓe as ßτ τηταò
.:asing.The ancient lηrriters gave several different explanations for hοτητ r,vine came
le diluted. According to one version, expounded by Phiionides ßη his rηrork Perfumes
,,-,\,/reaths (Athenaeusιò.675α-ò), Zeus himself inτervened το save τhe alcoholics.
- _,ß daμ α group of men r,ηrere drinking strong rvine by τhε sea rηrhen α sudden sτorm,

.'': by Zeus, burst υροη them. They fled tο α nearby cave, leaving τhe remains of τheir
-lic behind οη the beach. \Δ/hen the storm \ηιαs over, τhe men found τhατ τhe rain
-": filled their half-empty \Λ/ßηε goblets.This lyatered rvine, τhεγ found, rvas ηοτ οηlγ
. ,d το drink buτ above αlΙ better for them. From then οη, at τhε beginning of α sym-
.iuιn or ιηrine-drinking ceremony, each guest \^/as given α mouτhful of pure rvine
.alute Dionysos, the giver of wlne: but thereafτer, as τhεγ began το drink diluτed
,_le, τhεγ τhanked Zeus the Sayior.

. ',
inother version, the Athenian king Amphictyon learned τhε meτhod from Dionysos
._rself. The king thereafter erected α statue το αη "uprighτ" (τΙßατ is, ηοτ falling-dor.vn
::,:ηΚ) Dionysos at τhε¸mρΙε of the Seasons (Aτhenaeus z,38c-d) and near τhis
.:ue he installed αη αΙtατ to the Nymphs, τητhο are called "τhe τητεt nurses of
- lnysos," to remind the devotees that rηrine should be tempered τητßτh τηιατετ. Quoτed
-.lenaeus, "Iη daily intercoulse, to those mix and drink [ιιτßηε] moderaτely; ßτ
τητhο

..,,es good cheer; but if γου overstep the bounds, it brings violence" (Ζ.36α).

-.',r-as, therefore, \Λ/ith diluted lηrine that Greeks finished τheir banqueτs and began τhe
.:nposium. This classic after-dinner festiviτy of snacking and rηrine-drinking began
:h τhe election of α "symposiarch," α sort of master of ceremonies, part psycholo,
.,sι and part social director. Α good symposium facilitator τηταò essenτial το αη evening's
, ,.cess. He r.ηras supposed to help sτTengτhen exisτing friendships among τhε guesτs
and inspile ηe\η/ ones. He rηras to keep firm contτoi of the conversation and head off
Cοητeητßουò τυτηò. FßηαΙlγ, τhε Symposiarch r,ηras arbiter of the number of toasts and the
dßΙυτßοη of τhe τνßηε. Iτ rηras besτ if τhε elected one had first-class medical knornriedge,
so τhατ he mßghτ calculaτe hovr τhε rnrine rηrould affect the diverse guests: the aim r.ηras

that ηο one should get so drunk that arguments and disorder ensued.

Various calculaτions rηrere used for diluting r,ηrine: α formula of half rnrater and half
rηrine τηταò judged το be τοο dangeτous (Athenaeus ιο.426α). Other common dilutions
\Λ/ere ιhe "five" (τhree parts \Λ/ατει to t\Λ/ο parts \^/ine);the "thτee" (trπo parts \Λ/ater to

one of lvine);and fiηαΙΙμ τhe "four" (τhree parts \Λ/αtετ to one of rηrine). But everyone,
Pluτarch included, found τhατ τhßs last formula made the \ητßηe too r,ηreak α drink, and

οηΙγ good for wise judges (or so the story goes).

The symposium leadeτ needed το ensule that the numbeτ of toasts did not exceed the
number of empτied cups. According το Aτhenaeus, the temperate person limited him-
self το τhree diluτed cups: one for τhε τοαst, one for love, and one for dreams. At that
ροßητ, τhε òmαττ man γτεητ home. Those r,ηrho stayed longer knevr that the fourth cup
led το violence, τhε fifτh το rornrdiness, τhε sixth to happy drunkenness, the seventh
το laughτer (τhe Greeks called τhßs "το black eyes"), the eighth to policeman, the ninth
το biliousness, and τhε τεητh το ßηsαηßτγ and the smashing of furniture (Athenaeus
I .36b-c).

One sτory τεlΙò οf α group of young men from Agrigentum vrho had surely arrived at
τhe τeητh cup and probably did ηοτ sτορ there. This group gathered one day for dinner
and began το drink τητßτhουτ τεòτταßητ. After α rryhile, the world began to spin about
τhem and τhεγ somehoyr could ηοτ get to their feet. They seized υροη the notion that
τhey r.ιrere οη α τrireme caughτ ßη α terrible storm and that the οηΙγ ιιταγ to avoid ship-
r,ηrreck \^/as το iighτen τhε bοατ. Sτaggering to their feet, they began to throrηr the furni-
τure ουτ τhe rηrindorv. Naιurally τhε racket drernr α cror,ηrd, rηrhich rηrasied ηο time ßη
making off ιητßth the items flung onto the street.

When τhε auτhoriτies came οη τhe scene to investigate, they found the lads still under
τhε influence and sτßΙl convinced τhατ τhεγ \Λ/ειε οη αη imperiled trireme. Moreover,
ιhε arrival of ιhe strangers, striding across τητhατ seemed το τhε τipplers το be α sea of
ιossing \Λ/aves, convinced them that they ßη the presence of supernatural beings.
rnrere

Befuddled as they were, ιhey could οηΙγ say that ιhe marine τεmρεòτ lvas rvreaking
]avoc οτι their ship and to save themselves they had been obliged το ]εττßsοη τhe excess
;argo. Turning respectfully tο the speechless magistrates, one youth explained,
"HonorableTritons, Ι r,ηras so frightened τhατ ] τητεητ το hide ßη τhε hold and Ι have ηοτ
noved from there,"

lhe magisττates realized there rηras ηο ροßηt ßη arguing and they began το deparτ. But
lefore they reached the door, the young men ρτοsττατεd τhemselves ατ τhε elders' feeτ,
.olemnly srvearing that if they vrere suffered to escape τhis τerrible sτorm and make
rort, they urould raise αη altar ßη honor of these, τheir savior sea gods. Afτer τhis
.pisode, the house r.ηras foτevermore Κηοτητη as "the Trireme."

, his tale serves to illustrate horv important it \Λ/αs τhατ τhe symposiaτch be very αττeη-
.i\-e tο both the dilution of the ß,ητßηe Α cerτain number of
and the number of τoasτs.
:oasts \^/ere obligatory. But ßη those days, toasts were not made ßη honor of present
:ompany; they urere made ßη honor of the gods or, as often aS ηοt, Some personage
',ι'hom everyone admired, Theophrastus ιηrrites ßη his treatise
οη drunkenness τhατ
]ecause ßη antiquity it ιηταs not customary to τοαsτ τhε healτh of anoτher, ßτ r.ιlas by
Ieans of the "kottabos" that lovers found α \Λ/αγ το honor τheir beloved. Koττabos rηras
ι drinking game, ßη urhich the dregs of α cup r,ιrere flung ατ α ταιgετ, usually α ρlατε.
\ccording to Theophrastus:

Tnitially one toasted the gods οηßγ. Iη those days the kottabos was the tool by
which lovers honored each other. Iη Γact, ιhey were assiduously devoτed το τhis

game, about vrhichAnacreon of Teos \Λ/ιοtε: "\Λ/ßτh hands τied τοgeτheτ we ρΙαγ
the Sicilian kottabos" [ΡΙG fr. 53]. From then οη, alt of τhe ancienτ poems τhατ rηle

call "skolia" (cheerful gτoup songs) aτe full ofreferences [to this game]; I refer
το τhe poems thaτ Pindar composed (PtG ααι ). ". . . [T]he pleasure of love is

inspired by Aphrodite, while ] am intoxicated τηιßτh Chimaros r,ηrine and τhrow

the kotτabos for Agathon."
 AntiPhanes exPlained hovr this game \η/αs played ßη his Hidden from Aphrodiτe (Aτhenaeus
ι5,666f -667Ιι):

Α: This here is the thing Ι mean. Don't

γου understand? The lampstand is α
kottabos. Ραγ close attention. The prize is eggs and flve . . ,

Β; But τη.hαt for? It seems silly. Horv ν;ßΙΙ you.shoot kotιabos'?

Α: Ι shorv γου step by sιep; rvhoever τηιheη he shoots at the

τητßßΙ
ραη causes the
κοιιαbοs ιο ΓαΙΙ-
Β:The ραη? What ραη? Do γου mean that little thing that lies υρ there
οη top,
the tiny platter?
,4: Yes, that's the pan-he becomes the lηrinner.
Β: Horη, is one going to knorηr that?

A:Whμ if he just hits it, [the ραη] r,vill fall οη τhe Manθs [α òτατυeττe rep1esenτing
α slave] and there ινß]ß be α very loud clatter.
Β: Ιη the gods' name, tell me, has the kottabos got α ManÝs,
attending ßτ like αηγ
s]ave? . . . Take α good cup and shorηl me horηz do it. γου
Α: Like α good flute player, you've got to curi your fingers
round the handie,
pour ßη α litt]e rvine-not too much!-and then shoot....
Β: Poseidon, rηrhat α high shot you've made!

Later Οη, sYmPosiasts rvere permitted α broader range

of poeτic τοαòτò, chaιices offered
tΟ the chosen one ßη α Sentimental declaraτion of love. They lvere caιιed "driηk
τhe
crourns" (ΡΙßηγ Nat.Hist. 3ο,3.IΖ) and consisted of crushing
the florηrers from one's
cιο\Λ/η ßηtο the rηrine and offering it to one's love. Α
toast of this kind r,ηras offbred
to Mark Antony by Cleopaτra, bυτ ηοt as αη act of loving kindness.
The queen rvas
offended thατ he alurays had α ταsτeτ uriτh him, το try his food
before he ατe ßß. Το
demonstrate that if she truly vranτed το ΚßΙΙ Αητοηγ she τητουιd
succeed despiτe his
precautions, Cleopatra poisoned her floral cro\vn, and then
proposed το Αητhοηγ τhατ
he "dτink the crorηrn." But jusτ as Antony rηras about to put
the cup to his lips, the
queen stopped him; she had α condemned prisoner brought
out and gave the latter
the rryine instead. The poor man had barely finished drinking
r,ηrhen he fell dead ατ
Antony's feet.
ΤΗΕ END OF ΤΗΕ DINNER
,\fτernoons could be α heady mix of food, beautiful courτesans, musicians, flutisτs,
and dancers of both sexes. And above αlΙ, τητßηε, about rηrhich the poets loved to sing,
When the poet Archilochus earned his lvage as α soldier, he sang, "Μγ bread depends
υροη my spear, from my spear comes rηrine, and supported by -γ spear, Ι drink,,. ."

Our final rηrord οη τητßηε comes from Euripides'Bacchus (77Ζ): "Wine, antidoτe to αΙΙ

rvoes, given as α gift tο mortals.\Mithout rnrine, love rηrould ηοτ lαsτ and αΙ1 other
human joys urould die."

.\t α certain point the symposium ιητουld rηrind down and friends τητουΙd go τheir
ιarious rvays. Usually it r.ιras not late when the ραττγ broke υρ, especially ßη r,ιdnτer.
Though one could alurays light the rooms r,ηrith torches, candles, and lamps, lighτ uras
scarce and expensive. The life of the ancient Greeks \Λ/αs legulated by the sun: one
rose early and "τητεηt to bed rηlith the chickens," as the saying goes.

With dinner at αη end, the men retuTned to their homes and their lv-ives. Ιf they had
not been so drunk and M/anton as to \Λ/andeτ off rnrith α flutist or courtesan, the
evening τhατ had passed under the benevolenτ eye of Dionysus ended happily under
ιhατ of Aphrodiτe.

ΒΙ BLΙ OG RAPHY

\llinson = Menander, The Principal Fragments, Francis G. Allinson, trans. (Cambridge, ΜΑ, ι93ο).
_\τhenaeus, The Deipnosophisδ, C. Β. Gulick, trans., 7 vols. (Cambridge, ΜΑ, ι969-7ι).
)iehl = ΑητhοΙοgßα Lyrica, Ε. Diehl, ed. (Leipzig, ι9+9-)
ΞGΗ = Die Fragmente der griechischen Historiker, F, ]acobμ ed. (Leiden, ι9Ζ3-5Β).

iaibel = Comicorum Gτaecorum FIaεmenta, G. Kaibel, ed. (Berlin, ι899).

Iock = Comicoτum Atticorum Fragmenta, Τ. Kock, ed. (ι88ο-ΒΒ; repr. Utrecht, τ976).
{uchenmýller, G., Philetae coi reliquiae (ι9Ζ8).
,)LG = Ροeταe Lyτici Graeci, Τ Bergk, ed., 5th ed. (ι9οο ι4).
?lutarch, The lives of the Noble Grecians and Romans, John Dryden, trans. (ι864; NeιιrYork, ι944).
TrGF = Traθicorum Graecorum Fragmenta, Α. Nauck, ed. (Güttingen, ι97ι -).

33
 RECIPES

e have ηοιητ arrived at the lecipe section, Here lητε ΝΟΤΕ Το ΤΗΕ READER:
FulI recipes here are
will seek το flesh out the noτes jοττεd here and
numbered, Μαηγ of the
ιhere throughout Athenaeus's The Deipnosophisk, amending
food notes are not full
:hem at times to conform tο modern tastes. Aiding us ßη this recipes, but rve have
endeavor is τhe fact that Greek cuisine from τhe Classical era included them to expreSS
the range and depth of
\yas very simple. Numerous recipes, passed from generation
ancient Greek cooking,
ιο geneIation, have endured for centuries and come dοτ.ητη The adventurous cook
ιο us virtually unchanged. Moreover, we must not forget can experiment with
these descriptions as
ιhαt Roman cuisine of the imperial age τηταs derived fοτ the
he or she sees fit!
mοSτ ραττ fτοm the Greeks. We can often reconstluct dishes
menτioned by various Greek authors based οη analogous
Roman dishes: they must merely be trimmed of the excesses
ιhat Apicius added during the late Roman Empire. Iη fact,
many of the recipes ßη De re coquinaria, Apicius's opus mag-
num, rnrork οη t\Λ/ο levels: one starts \Δτßth the rich, ancient,
ιταdßτßοηαΙ recipes, vrhich are then flnished-almost as α
postscript-r,ηrith one of the outlandish sauces so beloved
ßη τhε fourih century e.o. Combining α quantity of recipes
gleaned from other Greek authors-including some thaτ
are quite comprehensive, such as those of Archestratus of
Gela-with α series of accuτate and reasoned reconstτuc-
ιßοηs of τhose that are merely hinted at, \Λ/ε end υρ υτßτh α

good idea of yrhat rnras served οη ancient Greek τables.

 ι,

Breads and Flour-Based Foods

V/e start rηrith the principal ingredient of Greek meals, ßη fact of
meals ßη α11 the countries of the Meditelranean: bread. Bread
could be bought from the baker, or, if α family was rich, made
and baked at home. Aτchestratus recommends that the bread-
maker be α Phoenician or Lydian, "inrho knovrs holv to make
daily every kind οf bread, ηο matter lιrhat γου order" (Athenaeus
3.Iιzc). Iη his Gastronomμ he rvriτes:

Firsτ, then, dear Moschus, Ι will call to mind ιhe gifts of ιhe fair-
haired Demeter, and do thou Ιαγ it to heart. The best that one
may get, αγ, the Iinest ßη the world, αΙΙ cleanly sifted from the
rich fτuit of barleμ grovls rvhere the crest of glorious Eresus ßη
Lesbos is rηrashed by the rvaves. It is whiter than snol.r from the
sky. Ιf it be so that the gods eat barley-meal, Hermes must go and
buy it for them there. Iη seven-gatedThebes, too, there is good
barley, inThasos, also, and ßη some other towns; bυι theirs seem
like grape-stones compared wiιh the Lesbian, Grasp that vlith
understanding sure. Supply yourself also rvith the round rol1 οΓ
Thessaly, r,vell trvisted ßη the maker's hand, rηrhichThessalians
call krimnitas, but the rest of the rηrorld calls chondrinos. Next, Ι

recommend the scion of Tegea's finest rvheaι, baked ßη ashes.

Very fine, ιοο, is the r,ηrheat loaf made for the market rηrhich
glorious Athens supplies ιο molιals; and the lοαf which comes
lηrhite from the oven ßη Erythrae, where grapes grow richly and
abounds ßη αΙΙ the luxurious daintiness of the Seasons .. .

(Atlrenaeus 3.Iιι ι2).

Βυτ these were not the οηΙγ breads of the ancient Greeks. There
r.ηrere rηrellover sixty kinds of bread, from the rough bread called
quadratus (square) by the Romans, or lòodraton by the Greeks, α loaf
that is divided into eight pieces rvith four cuts; tο the most
refined boletus, mushroom,shaped rolls sprinkled with Ρορργ
seeds. It is not possible to list them α11, but \Λ/ε have cited α fevr.
Where possible, rηre ßητßΙΙ give the recipes for them, bearing ßη
mind that flour varies greatly from one place tο the next. As for
the rest, they r-vere the simple breads from time out of mind,
lvith some supplemental ingredients.

36
Recipe ι

ARτoLAGANoN (FocAccιA)
]Ιτε name means "leaves of bread." Το prepare it the Greek νταμ PERSISTENCE OF
]ne sτalts, as alrvays, rvith bread dough, but later adding milk, ARTOLAGANON ΙΝ ΤΗΕ
1.4ODERN \VORLD
ιß], lard, pepper, and wine (Athenaeus 3. ι I3d). Το make ßτ ηο\η/α-
Artolaganon is nothing
1ays, one could simply ask for bread dough at α bakery οι super-
more than bread enriched
:rarket and then rvork ßη the ingredients indicated by Athenaeus,
with οßΙ, lard, and so forth,
_ooking ßt ßη α very hot oven. One could also make the bread and ιs therefore funda-
iough at home, as fοΙΙοτηιs, mentally the Same as ρßΖΖα
bianca (flat \vhite bread,
31/Ζ cups (35ο 9) f lour lιke the thinnest focacCia
º tablespoon Salt made ßη the U,S,), It iS
] tablespoon yeast dissolved ßη :/+ cup u/arm \^/ater
probab]y similar to the
bread that is called Roman
2 tablespoons olive οßΙ
ριΖΖα üγ the Romans, and
2 tablespoons lard
pizza-bread ßη Lazio, αη
1/ι cup (6Ο ml) ulhite ι,rιßηε
unconscious translation of
ι/ι cup (6Ο ml) milk
the Greek term,
peppΘr to taste
.

]υt the flour ßη α bowl, mix ßη the salt, and make α well ßη the
,liddle, Pour the dissolved yeast and the r.ηrarm \Λ/αtετ into τhe
-ole, then mix gently, Transfer tο α floured board and knead
llouring τhe hands and board frequently) υηtßΙ the dough is
_ompact, elastic, and smooth. Put the dough ßη αη oiled bοιι,l
:nd let rise ßη α warm place. When ßt has doubled ßη volume
αbουτ Ζο-3ο min.), knead it, adding οßΙ, lard, rηrine, milk, and
fepper, and mlxing ßt evenly, adding flour as needed. Then set
: ιο rise again (about Ζο minutes). Punch ßt dorvn and spread
]. e\Ienly ßη αη oiled rectangular ραη; let it rise once more (about
]ο minutes). When it has risen, cook ßt ßη α hot oven (47òΟ F or
:òοΟ C) for about 2ο minutes, or until done ßη the middle and
_.olden brorvn οη top.
 Recipe Ζ

KAPYRIA
PERSΙSTENCE ΙΝ ΤΗΕ Athenaeus claims that this is none other than the Roman tracta
N4oDERN \^/ORLD (α τγρε of dough) (3.ιι3d). Ιη Cato's day, it rnras made by mix-
These soft bread leaves
ing alica (large spelt grains) rηrith flour and v/ater. The dough was
seem to be similar to the
shaped round and coated with οßΙ, and \Λ/αs then placed ßη the
"pages of music" (carfa da
oven (Cατο De agr. 86).
musIca) f rom Sardinιan
shepherds: very thin-
sometimes baked. some- 4.5 lbs. (2 Κ9) vrheat f|our
times fried -confectιons, 2,2 lbs. (º Κ9) spelt seeds
They are also similar to the Water added to make α dough, about 1 cup (25Ο ml)
spaghetti that V/aS made vr'ater per pound of flour
at Torre deI Greco υρ until
the Second half of the last
Soak the spelt seeds ßη rηrater until they become soft. Drain them
century, ιvhich used hard
and mash them until they make α compact paste. Gradually add
vιheat flour, Once the
the flour until it is absorbed. When the dough is the right con-
dough was made it ιvas
rolled out, cut, and Ieft to sistency-not too sticky or too dry-mark various "τracks" or
dry, tv,/o StrandS together, lines across the dough that γου rηrill make into strips, then roll
Thls Spaghetti V/aS it out and dry over α rack. Next, rub the strips lπith αη oiled
U-shaped and Iong and cloth and leave them to dry ßη the air οτ ßη α \Λ/armed oven.
had to be cut apart before
Once dried, the strips can be used as pasta τrith α favolite
it M/as tossed into boilin9
sauce. Or use durum (hard wheat) flour and \Δ/ater, and con-
lt is interesting to
\r'r'ater.
tinue as above, again making pasta; or γου can roll them out
note that ßη some of
Ap]ciuS'S recipes, fracta round and fry them ßη οß1, dusting them urith cinnamon once
(the dried dough) came they're cooled, as α dessert; or cook οη αη iron grill, oyer αη
to be used like our small open flame, and serve like tortillas.
pastas, for example ßη
soup or broth,
Recipe 3

APANTΙ{RAKIS
_his is α light, soft bread, mentioned ßη Aristophanes' Ecclesi- PERSΙSTENCE ΙΝ ΤΗΕ
:zusae, rvhere he rηrrote, "The apanthrakis are cooking." Another N4ODERN \VORLD
Today the derivative of
:ipe is cited by Diocles of Carystus rvhen he vrrites that they
,.ι-ere thιs ancient Greek bread iS
sofτer than laganon. Probably says Athenaeus (3.IIob), they
not found ßη Greece. but ßη
:oasted these breads ßη the fireplace ashes as was the custom ßι1
Turkey, where ιt is called
,\ιhens. ΙnAlexandria, this bread \Λταs consecrated to Kronos, and pita, These Soft flat breadS
,ι vras left ßη the temple of that god r.ιrhere anyone mighτ help are filled with something
:hemselves. spicy and hot and rolled
llke α ciqar,

5 cups (5ΟΟ 9) flour

1 tablespoon salt
º cup (25Ο ml) sour milk (see note)
º tablespoon yeast dissolved ßη 2 tablespoons

of urarm ιruater
º tablespoon honey
º cup (25Ο ml) vvarm rvater
ι/ι cup (6ο mI) olive οßΙ

\1ßχ the flour and salt and place it ßη α mound οη the table (or
α òυττßηg board), forming α rryell ßη the center. Pour ßη the οßΙ,
sour milk, honey, \Λ/ater, and yeast. \η/οτΚ the dough ßη the nor-
mal manner (bringing the flour ßηtο the wet ingredients and
slorvly mixing it together vrlth your hands, and then kneading
ßι) until it is smooth and elastic. Place it ßη α rηrarm place pro-
ιected from dra|ts for about tß,ητο hours. Punch doinrn and knead
ιhe risen dough again, and cut it into ιο οι ι2 pieces. Roll each
piece out ιητßth α rolling ρßη to make ßt round and roughly 6-8
inches ßη diameier. Place them οη α r,vell-greased baking sheet
ßη α r.ηrarm spot to rise again (go-+o minutes). Finally, bake them
for Ζο minutes ßη α hot oven, 375Ο F or 2οοΟ C.

\ote:To make sour milk, add ι,/Ζ teaspoon lemon juice or vine-
gar to regular milk, and stir to blend.
 BoLEτUS (BoLETιNos)
Boletus breads . are oven-baked rolls shaped like mushrooms
(Aτhenaeus 3. I I3c) , These rolls r,ηrere probably made rvith dough
enriched ιητßth οß1 and Ιατd. Before ieaving the dough to rise, the
bread vras oiled and Ρορργ seeds. The seeds rnrould
stre\Λ/rr \Λ/ith

sink into the dough as it τose, \Λy'heat flour rnras sprinkled οη α

ceramic baking ραη before the dough vras placed οη it, allorπr-
ing the bread to take οη α magnificent color that Athenaeus com-
pared to smoked cheese.

BRAZIER BREAD
The comedian Antidotus rηrrote ßη his ρΙαγ The Premier Danseur,
"He took some hot brazier-bread-rnrhy not?-and folding it
over he dipped it into r.ιrine" (Athenaeus 3. ιo9c). Cτobylus
sr,ηreet

ßη The Suicide \Λ/rote, "Taking α dough ραη full of brazier bread"

(ibid.). And finally, Lynceus of Samos, ßη his leττers το Diagoras,
compaIes Athenian food to that of Rhodes:

Besides, the bread sold ßη their market is famous, and they bring
it ßη at τhε beginning and the middle of α banquet without stint.
And rηrhen they ατε tiled and sated lηrith eating, they then intro-
duce α most delightful allurement ßη ιητhαt is called smeared
brazier-bread. It is α soft and deiectable compould dipped ßη
sweet urine, with such α harmonious effect that α marvelous
result come tο one rnrhether he urill or ηο; for iust as the drunken
man oΓten becomes sober again, so the eatel of it grours hungry
again urith its delicious flavor (Athenaeus 3. ιo9d-e).

This seems to have been α soft focaccia that was cooked ßη the
fireplace οτ οη α grili. Probably this bread \Λ/αs not eaten often,
since it \Λ/αs toln ßη trnr_o parts and soaked ßη rπine, likely mak-
ing it very spongy.

1|
:

ι
ß
]
cUBo oR DICE (ΡΑΝ BREAD)
This bread \Λ/αs square ßη the form and flavored rηrith anise,
cheese, and οßl. It was likely harder than modern bread and more
like oysτer bread (crackers) found today ßη France and England.
Heracleides speaks of ßτ ßη his Art of Cookery (Aτhenaeus 3. I ι4α)

SΤRΕΡΤΙΚΟS (SPIRAL OR T\rYIST BREAD)

This bread r-ηras made by adding α ΙßττΙε milk, pepper, οß1, and
lard to the dough (Athenaeus 3. I I3d). Ιt ιητουld be like ουτ olive-
οß1 rolls, but ττßτh pepper.
 ..

Ý''Ý' *',.;.|,ι-
Sauces and Condiments for Bread
Recipe 4

ΜΙΝΤ SAUCE
"Or even the dolπny leaves of tendeτ flea-bane
|mint]-often
again, chopping υρ fτesh pepper or Median cress" (Athenaeus
Ζ.6 6d) .

] οΖ. (3Ο g) mint leaves

Ι οΖ. (3Ο g) green peppercorns (pickled)
] οΖ. (3Ο g) safflower (also cal|ed false saffron)
pinch of salt
1tablespoon vinegar
3 tablespoons olive οßΙ

Crush the peppelcorns, mint, saffLorηrer, and salt ßη α moItaι Add

οßΙ and vinegar and stir.
Recipe 5

oxYGARUM
Oxygarum (οτ oxygaron) was α sauce made with vinegar and
gaIum (the modern equivalent of garum is theVietnamese nuoc-
nam,οι fish sauce), tο which one added other spices and scents
ßττ α
special receptacle called αη "oxybaphon" (Athenaeus
z.67e-l).

Crush together ßη α mortar:

Ι/2 9Ζ. (15 g) black peppercorns

3/η οΖ, (45 g) parsley
1/Ζ οΖ, (3Ο g) caraway seeds
Ι/α qΖ, (1Ο g) celery seeds

vinegar
Vietnamese fish sauce

Μßχ the paste with ιtablespoon honey and rvhen γου rnrish to
serve it, add ι tablespoon vinegar and ι teaspoon of Vietnamese
fish sauce. Μßχ and serve.

Either of these sauces can be rolled into the bread made rnrith
Recipe 3 (Apanιhrakis),
 ß} Ý, ,'|'. 1-1

Appetizers
Archestratus ahvays recommended that appetizers be seryed
ιπτßτh one's aperitif, vlhich ßη ancient Greece r,vas always α cup of
good rvine,

And as γου sip γουτ r,ηrine let these relishes be brought to γου-

pig's belty and boiled sow's matrix floating ßη cumin and vinegar
and silphium; also the tender τribe of birds roasτed, such as ιhe
season affbrds. But dlsregard those Syracusans, rηrho drink frog-
fashion rnrithout eating anything; ηαγ, yield ηοτ το them, buτ eat
τhε Γood Ι tell γου. ΑlΙ other common desserts are α sign of dire
poverty-boiled chick-peas, beans, appies, and dried f,gs.Yet
accept α cheese-cake made ßη Athens; οτ Γailing that, ßf γου get
one Γrom somerι,here else, go out and demand some Attic honey,
since that τηιßΙΙ make your cheese-cake superb. This is the rvay α

freeborn man should live, else down below the earth, even belorη-
τhe ρßτ andTartarus, he should go to his desιruction and lie
buτied countless Γathoms deep (Athenaeus 3.Ioιc e).

Regarding hors d'oeuvres, Nicostratus wrote ßη his The Ρει, "The

flrst platter, leading the main courses, τητßΙΙ contain α sea-urchin,
some ra\^/ smoked fish, capers, α rvine-sop [bread to dip ßη
rvine], α τητßld buib ßη sour sauce" (Kock Ζ,.Ζι9;
slice οf meat, and
Athenaeus 4.I33c).

PEPPER: It rvas served rvith the appetizers, evidently to increase

one's thirst.

SALTY SNACKS: Salty appetizers \η/ετε served before dinner,

lηrith wine, also to increase the desire tο drink.

ONIONS: ]t seems that onions had the same effect then as ηοιη-.
Ιη fact, Homer \Λ/rote, rηrhen describing Nestor's dinner, that he
gave out onions to cherηr ß,ητßth the lvine (Athenaeus ι.ιob; ΙΙßα,ß
ιI .6Ζ8-3ο).
Recipe 6

òΑτο,S GREEN oLιVES

r,ηras, ßη antiqulty
The olive as it is tοdαχ the hors d'oeuvre par
excellence. Aristophanes, discussing appetizers, pondered pick-
]ed olives: "Do γου, master, love the ladies i,vho are over-ripe or
ιhε virginai ones with bodies firm as olives sτeeped ßη brine?"
(Athenaeus 4. I33α).Νο exact recipe has come dornrn to us for
horηr olives \\rere prepared ßη ancient Gτeece, but ßη Cato's trea-
ιlse οη agriculture rηre have various Mediterranean recipes that
almost certainly sholηr that olives have alr.vays been prepared as
ιhεγ aΤe today

Cato rnrriτes: "Pick the olives before they turn black. Tλke αηγ
grorvths off of them and place them ßη α water bath. Change τhε
lvater frequently and rvhen they are rηrell soaked, separate them
and ιoss them ßη vinegar, adding οßΙ and ι7ο grams of salt per
elght and one half liters of olives. When γου are ready to use
them, take them out of the marinade, season them vrith fennel
and α myrtle branch that has been soaked ßη οß1" (Αgι. Iο7; ιο8).

The recipe is clear and needs ηο explanation.

\Τοιε: If γου harvest or purchase γουι ο\Λ/η olives, follorηr Cato's

ιvater bath pτocedure, changing the rvateτ daity for α ιηreek.
The rπrater should have αt least Ι/+ cup of salt per gallon of r.vateτ
( ιοο g per 8 liters) rηrhen soaking the olives. Bags or sacks of

olives are also sold ßη ltaly, and ßη ltallan-American markets, ßη

α saltrnrater brine. Either way, α half-pound of olives, presoaked,
or purchased ßη brine sacks, can then be put ßη α jar rvith equal
parts of οß1 and vinegar and let to sit for at least α rnreek, rηrith
Γennel and myrtle added at the end of the rveek. Rinse the olives
before serving.
 kecipe 7

OLΙVES ΡΙòΚLΕD ΙΝ FENNEL

"First of αΙΙ, cover them rnrith cold pickling sauce so that they
maintain theiτ color; rnrhen theτe are enough gathered ιο fill α jar,
cover the bottom of the jατ with fennel and myrtle branches thατ
have been prepared ßη α small kettle, Νοιπ take the olives out of
τhε pickling, torvel them dry and mix ßη seeds, completely refill-
ing the jar. FßηαΙΙγ, cover the top vrith dry anise and Ζ parts of
dry fresh mustaId and ι of oil,/vinegaτ bτine. Olives treated τhis

rvay urill last α year."

Note: See Recipe 6 fοτ the fteatment of rarnr olives. Iη ιhis case,
the οßΙ and vinegar solution should contain fennel and myrtle,
rnrith anise and mustard added to the brine. The olives should
remain ßη the brine for several days to α rnreek before they aτe
eaten.

DRIED OLIVES
These are the ripe, bulbous, ιπτßηΚΙεd black olives that are found
ßη Sicily,They must have existed even ßη Archestratus's day, since
he vrrites ßη his Hedupatheia, "Serve those mature rnrrinkled olives."
Clearly these are the same dry olives seryed toda14 and as ßη
Archestτatus's day they are best rπrhen seasoned ιητßτh fennel, He
explains that this is because "ßη pious memory of Marathon |ßη
Greek, "maraτhon" means fennel] for αΙΙ τßmε, τhεγ αΙΙ ρυτ
marathon ßη τhε briny olives" (Athenaeus z.56c).

ι
ι-

ι,
I

ι
Recipe 8

SEA URCHΙNS
The most triumphant οf αΙΙ the appetizers are the fruits of the
Sea: Sea urchins and oystels.

"The best are those full of red or orange eggs. Also qυßτε good
are 1},ose rnrhose eggs gleam vrith α gelatinous substance rnrhen
they are pulled arπay {τοm the shell. Dress them ιιrith honey,
mint, and parsley diced and minced, to bring out the besτ fla-
vor" (Archippus Fishes),

Archippus's sauce for sea urchins:

Ι tablespoon honey
3 tablespoons vinegar
Ι tablθSpoon mint
Ι tablespoon parsley

Dissolve the honey ßη the vinegar, then finely mince the parsley
and mint and mix the spices into the honey and vinegar. When
ready to eat the urchins, split them ßη trnro, cleaning α\Λ/αγ the
spine. Find and clean the egg, pour α dollop of the sauce οη the
egg ßη ιhe shell, and enjoy.
Recipe 9

VVILD ΗΥΑòΙΝΤΗ BULBS (LAMPASCΙONI)

Some appetizers \^/ere made of ingredients that rηrere reviled by
discerning eaters. Athenaeus wrote about α group of authors
rηrho evidentiy did ηοß love hyacinth bulbs and did not share the
beliei common at the time, that cabbage or kale protecτed
against drunkenness and hangover. "Goodbye, Ι say, to sauce
dishes filled \^/ith bulbs |hyacinth] and kale and to αΙΙ other
cheap relishes" (Athenaeus Ζ.64α).

Basing this recipe οη the ancient one, \\re see that the basics are
alr.ιrays the same. Even if the recipe does not include α method
for ταΚßηg α\Λ/αγ the terrible bitteτness of the bulbs, it is evident
τhατ το render them edible, the bulbs should be boiled, ιητßτh
numerous changes of urater. Then they are peeled, and α sauce
is made to season them.

About ºΟ hyacinth bulbs, boiled and ready

Sauce:
º teaspoon each thyme and oregano
2 cloves of garlic, minced
1 tablespoon each honey, vinegar, and ιαιßηε must

3 tablespoons olive οßΙ

3 tablespoons minced dates
Salt to taste

Μßχ αΙΙ sauce ingredients and pour over the bulbs, adding fresh
pepper to taste.
Recipe ro

Vl/ΙLD HYACINΤH BULBS AS Α LOVE ΡΟΤΙΟΝ

These rose-colored bulbs, vrhich convey α false innocence, aIe
actually α famous aphrodisiac. This seems to have been αη ac-
cepτed fact, going back many centuries, as Martial rηrrites οf τhε
bulbs (ι3.34): "Given that your lηrife is old and your member
is dead, γου can οηΙγ hope to use rηrild hyacinth bulbs to fill υρ
your stomach." Ιη ancient Greece the hyacinth bulb was rvidely
believed to have aphrodisiac properties; such bulbs couid
rearηraken the ardor of Venus even for the most impotent of men.
Here is αη old proverb ßη support of this belief: "Jusτ one
hyacinth bulb cannot help γου lf γου are not already α true
man." The consumer rηras thus rηrarned that the hyacinth bulb
lvould do its best ßη the battle of love, but that it was also neces-
sary for τhe loyer tο exert himself, The belief ßη this aphrodisiac
\\las so strongly ingrained that centuries iater, ßη ancient Rome,
ivild hyacinth bulbs were served ιο ner,ιrlyrnreds before they r.vent
ιο their nuptial bed. One of these recipes r,vas given by Apicius
(l .r+.ò), derived from Varro. He seems not much concerned
τνßτh τhε biτιer properties of this ρlαητ, τecommending simply
ιhat one boil them without either honey or cheese as ßη the
Greek recipe, ßη αΙΙ likelihood they rvere none too tasty. Given
ιhαt the recipe added other aphrodisiacs, such as arugula, it
seems he rηras less concerned lvith flavor than rηrith their ama
iory effbcts. After α11, for α successful rvedding night, it was the
lesults that mattered: "For those searching for the joys ofVenus,
ιοß1 rηrild hyacinth bulbs ßη \Λ/αtετ, and for the true honeymoon,
serve them lvlth pine nuts and α sauce made by boiling arugula
and adding pepper."

] dozen ινßΙd hyacinth bulbs, already cleaned and

boiled several times, or, if already marinated, rinse
the bulbs until there is ηο more οßΙ
5 οΖ. (2ΟΟ 9) arugula
α handful of pine nuts

3οßΙ the arugula for about three minutes, then drain it and put
ι α biender r.ιrith 1 teaspoon pepper. Pour the \Δ/ατm green sauce
]\ er warm bulbs and add α sprinkling οf pine nuts.
\^/ιLD ΗΥΑòιΝτΗ BULBS \ΛrΙτΗ ΗοΝΕΥ
"Look, if γου please, at the bulb, and see r,vhat lavish expense it
requires to have its reputation-cheese, honey, sesame-seed,
οßΙ, οηßοη, vinegar, silphium. Taken by itself alone ßt is poor and
bßττετ" (Athenaeus z.6ae).

Recipe ιι

ΤυRΝΙΡS ΙΝ MUSΤARD
]t is not necessary to Comment οη Athenaeus's recipe
(α. I33c-d). One can decide r,ιrhat quantities to use, based οη the
follorving directions: "the turnip root, γου cut ßη thin slices,
gently cleaning α\Λ/αγ the undried outer skin, and after drying
τhem ßη τhe sun α little, either dip α quantity of them ßη boiling
\Λrater and soak them ßη strong brine; or again, put equal parts of
rηrhite must and vinegar ßη α jar together, then plunge the slices
ßη ßτ, having dried them off rηrith salt. Often, tοο, γου may pound
raisins and biting mustard-seeds urith α pestle and add it to
them. \^/hen cream of tartar forms, and the tοΡ gro\^/s more and
more bitter, then 'tis time to dτατητ off the pickle for those rηrho
seek their dinner."

4 white turnips, cleaned

] rounded teaspoon mustard seed, crushed
1/Ζ cup (125 ml) οßΙ
1/Ζ cup (]25 ml) vinegar

Slice the turnips thinly and ρυt ßηtο α pot of boiling water for
one minute, and then rinse them and dry them, and let them
cool. Stir the other ingredients together ßη α jar and toss ßη the
drμ cooled turnip slices. Cover the jar, and let the turnips sit for
αι least tr,ιro days. They can last about α month and are served
direcτly ουτ of τhε jar.
Recipe ιΖ
SτUFFED LEAVES (τΗRΙοΝ)
These are none other than the stuffed grape leaves, called "dol-
mas," that can be found everyrvhere ßη Greece and Turkeχ but
ßη ancient times, {τesh, tender fig leaves cailed "thrion" lηrere
used instead of grape leaves. Iη some parts of Greece dolmas are
still made rvith fig leaves, and those lvho have tried them say
ιhαt they are identical to those made ιι,ßth grape leaves, though
perhaps α bit srηreeter. Today the fillings νατχ and this rvas prob,
ably true ßη ancient times as rvell. Certainlμ rice, the most com-
mon filling today did not then exist, but some other sort of
grain filling rvas used, possibly spelt.
If γου rvish to fοΙΙοτηι the ancient recipe, γου may use young,
fresh fig leayes or grape leaves, but there is also α modernTurk-
ish recipe that suggests using cherry, apricot, or bean leaves.
Hor.ηreyer, grape leaves are currently the easiest to find and use,
and one τhus may be spared the bother of finding them and boil
ing them just to the perfect consistency.

This filling can be used lηrith αηγ type of leaf γου choose.

2Ο grape or fig leaves, ready (either prepared by

boiling fresh leaves, or from α jar already spiced)
17ε cup (26Ο 9) spelt or bulgur
2 cups (º,/Ζ liter) broth or u/ater, plus extra for the
final cooking Ν
1 teaspoon Salt
3 medium onions, sliced thickly
21/ι cups (6οο g) ρΙαßη yogurt
1/ι cup (6ο mI) olive οßΙ
2 tablespoons butter (to soften onions)

Ιf γου are using fresh leaves, rηraslr and thoroughly clean them;
or use store-bought leaves. Toss them ßη boiling \^/ater, remoye
them after α felv moments, and put them οη α rnrork surface. Pick
the best ones and set them aside for the dolmas. Select α copper
ραη that r,vill αllοßητ the rolls to snugly fit one next tο the otheτ.
Use αηγ broken leaves to completely hne the bottom of the ραη,
overlapping to ensure γου cover the rηrhole surface; this will help
tlre rolled stuffed leaves stay put during cooking.
 Μßχ the grain and sa]t and cook unti] tender ßη the broth or
\η/αtετ.\Λ/hen this is done, pinch off small pieces of the paste,
forming them into finger-sized sausage-like rolls οf filling.
Το sτuff τhε grape leayes, start by sτreτching ουτ τhε leaf and
placing α roll of filling ßη τhe cenτer. Fold υρ one end and τhe
sides, rolling the leaf around the mixture iike α cigar, making
them about Ζ, inches long by ι inch rvide (ò by υ cm), making
sule to tuck ßη the ends to pIevent leakage. If γου have enough
filling for more than one layer of leaves, make another layer οη
τορ υητßΙ of τhε filling is used υρ. When τhε rolls are αΙΙ ßη
αΙ1
the ραη, cover the dolmas lιlith broth or \η/αtετ and οßΙ and place
α plate οη tορ, to \veigh dorηrn the rolls during cooking. Cook
over α lorηr flame for about one hour, checking frequently to
make sure there is sufficient liquid ßη the ραη.
About ιò minutes before the rolls are done, make the sauce:
Sautü the onions ßη the butter until so|t but ηοt brorηrn. Add the
yoghurt and α bit of the cooking \Λ/ater from the dolmas, and
pour this sauce over the rolls just as γου are ready to serve them.

GRASSHOPPERS AND CΙCADAS

There r,ηrere α few surprising items among Athenaeus's appetiz-
ers. \Δ/ε may be graτeful that today they have disappeared lrom
the menu, but they vrere sufficiently appreciated ßη Arisτo-
phanes' day that one of his characters exclaimed, "Good heav-
ens, horv Ι yearn to eat α grasshopper and α cicada (cercopÝ)
caught οη α thin reed" (Athenaeus 4. I33b;Aristophanes ,Alagyrus
ßη Kock ι.4ο4).

] don't knorv whether these insects would have been cooked as

ΙstαηbιlΙ clams are cooked today sker.ιrered three by three οη
sticks, floured and then fried, but even prepared this ιναγ, Ι
vrould not be tempted to try them. Hoιι.ever, if anyone should
rηrish to do so, feel free. InAfrica, they are often talked about and
my African ηαηηγ assured me that "grasshoppers are s\Λ/eet as
cafe latte."
 Soups and Vegetables
Recipe ι3

τΙSΑΝΑ (BARLEY SoUP)

Aristophanes mentions tisane, α well-knorηrn barley soup that rηras

highlighτed ßη one recipe siτed by Cατο and four oτher versions

found ßη De re coquinaria. ΑΙΙ the recipes based οη barley r.ιrere the
same except for Apicius's, rηrhere he used various sauces.

"ΤλΚε previously cleaned barley that rnras soaked ßη water the day
before cooking. Wash and crush the barley. Put it οη to cook with
wατετ ovel α high flame. When it starts tο boil, add ρΙεητγ of οß1,
α small fτesh branch of anise, diced dried οηßοη, savory, and α

bit of ham and have it cook together until it becomes creamy,

_\dd coriander and salt and serve lt υρ" (Apicius 5.5.ι).

1Ο οΖ. (25Ο 9) ulhite barley

\^/ater (about 4 cups)
2 tablespoons olive οßΙ
] teaspoon anise
º minced οηßοη
º pinch of savory
1 pinch of chopped fresh coriander (cilantro)

Ι thick slice of prosciutto or ham

salt and pepper to taste

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fºr,,-
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 Recipe ι4

ΡοLΕΝτΑ (coNDRoS)
"Βυτ rηrhen making α dish of goat, iamb, οτ α
chicken freshly
killed, throrηr fresh grain (barley) ßη α ραη and crush it rηre]],
mixing ßη fragrant οßl. When the broth is boiling vigorously,
put ßη the rest, then cover the ραη lηrith α lid and ieaye it to
cook, covered, because that way the heavy mixture svrells, Serve
τητßτh α (τablespoon) of ner.ηr lvine" (Nicander of Colophon,
fr.68 Schneider).

Ι cup (25Ο ml) cooked barley

2 cups (5ΟΟ mi) shredded lamb or chicken, cooked
º οηßοη
º tablespoon parsley
3 sage leaves
2 cups (5οο ml) broth
1/ι cup (6Ο ml) olive οßΙ
salt and pepper to taste

Το make this polenta, one can fοΙΙοιητ Athenaeus's instructions

for barley soup or ιisana, Recipe ι3, replacing those spices and
the ham τηdth the above spices and meaτ.

The οηΙγ problem τητßτh τhßs recipe is τhατ το make ßτ properly,

one should live ßη the countryside rηrhere it is possible to get
fresh stalks of barleμ lηrhich are not found ßη city markets. Υου
can, horvever, substitute τrhite barley, or better yet, bulgur from
Turkey Both of these require pre-soaking and then cooking for
some hours. It is simpler, of course, to get packaged barley, Both
bulgur and this boxed barley are ready for cooking and οηΙγ
τequire α good crushing ßη α mortar or α blender, leaving it
somerηrhat grainy, ηοτ tοο fine.
 Recipe ι5

ZENO,S LENΤIL SOUP

Aτistophanes always served υρ modest lentil soup, rnrhether ßη
his Gerytades or ßη his Amphiaraus (both novr lost), showing that it
must be α pleasing potage. He calls it, "the s\Λr€etest of delicacies"
(Athenaeus 4. i58c).

Ι lb. (45Ο 9) lenti|s

8 cups (2 liters) broth
º large minced leek
º carrot, ] stalk of celery, and º smal| οηßοη, αΙΙ sliced
2 tablespoons vinegar
Ι teaspoon honey
olive οßΙ
º2 coriander seeds
salt and pepper to taste

Rinse τhε lentils thoroughly then put them into α ροτ lπith the
broth to boil. Reduce heat and simmer for one hour, When the
hour is υρ, skim the top, add the vegetables and leave simmer
again υητßΙ ßτ is cooked (about 3ο minutes). Ιf the soup seems
,\ηßαtετ)ζ
too mix ßη some cornstarch, or, better yet, pass some of
the lentils through α sieve. Νοι,ητ add the vinegar and honey. Pour
ßητο serving bourls and add α good dollop of olive οßΙ (about Ζ
tablespoons per serving), sprinkling οη coriander seeds, and salt
and pepper to taste,

Ιτ seems as if Zeno vras pulling our leg urith this recipe, as he

πτites to finish off the soup, one should add ιΖ coriander
τhατ
seeds. This commendable precision regarding α quantity is not
common ßη ancient recipes, at least ßη those that are not medic-
ι ßηαΙ, but assuredly these ιΖ coriander seeds radically change the
ß
flavor of the soup.
ι

ι
ι

ι
ι

ß
ι

ι
ι
ι
ι
ι
ι
t
ι
ι
ι
ι
L
 Recipe ι6

CHRYSIPPUS,S LENΤΙL SOUP

This soup is basically like the one above, but Chrysippus, τητhο
evidently loyed bitteτ flayors, recommends serving α soup com-
bining lenτils and rvild hyacinth bulbs. Iτ is doubτful τhατ τhßs
τητουΙdbe α very popular recipe, but, then, there ατε so many
varying tastes ßη the rvorld. Apicius did not mention such α soup,
nor is there αη equivalent today but lf γου vrish,
γου could make
the soup according tο Zeno, but adding half α pound of pre
pared hyacinth bulbs (see method above, at Recipe
9).

((

\_. _

'Υ -ι
ι
 Recipe τ7 PERSΙSTENCE ΙΝ ΤΗΕ
N,]oDERN V/oRLD

\VILD GREENS Today dishes based οη

field and wild herbs have
Greens and herbs used ßη ancient times included vrild Ιeττυòe
changed somervhat, or,ving
(dark is best), watercress, coriander, mustard, melon, ρορργ,
to the introduction of Nev/
ι
οηßοη (as ιητε11 as the variations such as scallions and leeks), gar- World plants, but they are
ι

lic, and celery. directiy derived from the

traditional recipes. For
2 lbs. (º kg) mixed greens, rarhatever is ßη season example, the follovιin9
(Ι chose chicory, parsley, ce|ery, chard, onions, recipe for "Cooked \Yater"
scallions, leeks, 9arlic) combines Old aιiιJ Nevy
World foods.
\^/ater

º teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons olive οßΙ
º tablespoons vinegar

Piace the cleaned gIeens ßη cold, salted rπrater and bring to α boii,
making sure not to overcook them. Lift them carefully out of the
pot r-ιrith α slotted spoon or large fork. Season them urith οß1
and vinegar.

Ιη Rome, one can nornr find α mixture of herbs such as those

cited ßη the Greek recipe. This combination is generally large-leaf
lettuce, chicorμ arugula, urild fennel, garlic, rπatercress, and
mint leaves. I have never found coriander, melon, or rnrild mus-
τard ßη the mix, and οηßοη and celery are sold separately.
Certainly, anyone rnrho rηrishes could add to the list, and culti-
l-ated plants are iust as acceptable as wild.
«cooKED \^/AτER,
This is α countTy soup, which can be served dry or soupμ
according to the amount of rnrater used for cooking. Belor,ηr is αη
indicative iist of herbs, but one could use almost αηγ greens that
suit your fancy.

Ι-3 cups (1/4to1/2Iiter) cold \^/ater per person

2 sliced potatoes per person
]Jerusalem artichoke (or cardoon)
hops
] bunch of chicory
Ι bunch of salad greens
Ι bunch of red ρορργ floιyers
Ι bunch of borage
2 tablespoons of lard
chopped 9reen pepper to taste
3 or 4 cloves of garlic
] οηßοη
α dash of sage
basil to taste

The οηΙγ problem is finding αη obliging meadorπr that urili yield

αΙΙof these soup ingredients. Α city dinreller could make his,/heτ
ourn list and hopefully get from the greengrocer τhose ingredi-
ents not found ßη the urild-but be prepared fοτ some sτrange
]

looks. Be that as it may if γου succeed ßη procuring αΙΙ τhese

Ι

items, including cardoons (α thistle-like vegetable νßττυαΙΙγ

Ι

unknorπrn ßη the United States), here's hour to make the soup. l

Ρυτ cold, ΙßghτΙγ salted \Λ/ater ßη α ροτ and then add ßη τhe
Ι

ροτατοεs. When τhe potatoes are nearly cooked, add τhe greens, Ι
cut into large pieces, Peel the Jerusalem altichoke and chop I
coarsely. The otheτ greens should be urashed and cleaned,
I
discarding αηγ tough or discolored leaves. Νεχι add the lard, I
peppeI, garlic, οηßοη, sage, and basil and stir. Let it boil for Ι
Ζ5 minuτes. Serve it ßη α bolπl οη top of α slice of crusτy coun-
Ι
ιτγ bread. l

58

ι
Recipe r8

SALAD DRESSΙNG
Ιη The l4loman Who Le[τ Her Husband, the αυτhοτ, εßτhετ Diphiius or
Sosippus, rηrrites the follorving:

Α: Have γου got sharp vinegar ßη the house?

Β: Ι fancy so, slave, and lve have bought rennet. ΑΙΙ this Ι rvil]
squeeze together ßη α nice dish for them, and the salad r.ηrith sour
dresslng shail be served for αßΙ" (Athenaeus 4. I33η.

º cup (25Ο ml) curdled milk, buttermilk, or sour cream

º tablespoon vinegar

salt and pepper to taste

Μßχ αΙΙ ingredienτs, chil] ßη the refrigerator, and pour ΙßghτΙγ

over salad.

The οηßγ problem i.vith making this simple dressing, yrhich is

loly ßη calories, is finding curdled milk.You can make ο\Δτηγουι
by adding α squeeze of lemon to fresh milk, or
γου can use but-
termilk οι sour cτeam, The recipe makes enough dressing for
Γουτ iarge plates of salads.
 Κτ*βξL
Meat
Recipe ι9

ALEXANDRΙAN MIXED ΒΟΙLΕD ΜΕΑΤS

"Follolving these viands platters vrere passed round containing
many kinds of meat prepared with water-feet, heads, ears, jarnr-
bones, besides guts, tΤipe, and tongues, ßη accordance rnrith the
custom ßη shops αt Alexandria called 'boiled-meat shops"'
(Athenaeus 3.9+c).

Αεχαηdτßαη boiled meats \Λ/ere α mix of various pork bik: feet,

heads, cheeks, ears, tripe, intestines, and tongue, Iη Turkeμ
another country that grevr and prospered under Hellenism, theτe
aτe òτßΙΙ ιeòταυταητò rnrhere τhe sole ßτem οη τhe menu is ishkembe
shorbasi, απipe soup that seems to beaτ α close resemblance to
Aιexandrian boiled meats. It is unimportant lηrhether there is ßη
fαòτ α direcτ τeΙατßοη beτr,ηreen τhe τrnro. Whατ mαττeτò is τhe facτ
that, ßη Aιexandria, there rnrere speciaι restaurants that served
οηΙγ one particular dish. Tτrenty yeals ago ßη Turkey, each small
ιεsταυταητ (osτeria) \Λ/αs τßεd το α specialτy dish, If one did ηοτ
wish to patronize αη Occidental style restaurant, one had to
move from Iestaurant to Iestaurant ßη order to get α complete
meal. If one had strong legs, α good appetite, and time to spare,
this rπas α diverting \Λταγ to spend αη afternoon or evening, Ι do
ηοτ know if τhßs is sτßΙΙ true todalι but Ι sincerely hope that ßη
Istanbul one can still move from α metze place to one serving
doner kebabs, then move οη to α fish restaurant for fried clams
ßη pastrμ then οη to α chippura, and finally end the evening rπith
some loukum from α great bakery.

2 pig's feet
ΥΖ pig's head
2 pig ears
α bit of pork or beef tripe, according to taste
heart, lungs, liver to taste
pig's tongue

1 medium οηßοη, minced

Ξ

t
 º clove garlic, finely chopped
] small carrot, sIiced
1/Ζ cup (º25 ml) chopped parsley

º teaspoon pepper
1/Ζ cup (125 ml) ιπhite ιaιine vinegar (if intestines are
added, double the amount of vinegar)

Fill α large pot with and ι teaspoon of salt for each tr,vo
\Λ/ater
quarts of\Λ/ater, and add standard soup seasonings: οηßοη, ceiery,
garlic, carrots, parsley pepper, and rηrhite rvine vinegar. Bring
the \^/ater to α boil, then add the meats, and reduce the flame to
medium. Cook until tender (about 3ο-+ο minutes). Serve boil*
ing hot and offer α sauce iηrith it, such as the mßηt sauce ßη
Recipe Ζο.

Note: Boiled pig can be very gamey. Using already-cooked head,

cheeks, tongue, feet, etc. from the roasted, stuffed pig ßη Recipe
ΖΖ yields α much better result: less fatty and more flavorful. This
is especially true of the head and feet, since they are largely fat.
The cheeks and the portion betrηreen the ears and tongue have
the most meat. Our test cook declined tο use intestines.

-,\

§
Ν
-\^\

ß)

\Νιιιοιιιιιι.ι*,,:
Recipe υο

Ι,ΙΙΝτ SAUCE
This recipe for mint sauce is similar to the one at Recipe 4, but
rnre found this version less cloying, and more delicious.

4 tablespoons dried mint (or Ι handful of fresh mint)

º teaspoon pickled green peppercorns
2 teaspoons saffloιiver
6 tablespoons (θΟ ml) olive οßΙ
2 tablespoons vinegar

Mint is easy to find and can even be grovrn ßη α rnrindornr box, Ιη

bazaars ßη both Turkey and Egypt, the red pistils of safflo\Λrer, or
"false saffron," are passed off οη the unsuspecting tourist, rnrho
believes he or she is getting genuine saffron. It is nevertheiess
delicious. Chop αΙΙ the spices, or crush them ßη α mortar. Whisk
the mixture into the οßΙ and vinegar, and add salt to taste, Let it
sit for ατ least αη hour to allorπ αΙΙ the herbs to mingle urith τhε
vinaigreτte. Excellent with the goat and ροτΚ τecipes follovring.
Recipe Ζ ι

RΟΑSΤ ΚΙD GOAT

This recipe is from Apicius, but is evidentiy universal.

"Take τhe baby goat and τυb it well with οßΙ, then toss οη pep-
per, α lot of salt and coriander seeds. Put it ßη the oven, roast it
and serve it" (Apicius 8,6,8),

Ι/zbaby goat, about 5-7 pounds (2-3 kg), skinned

and cleaned
olive οßΙ
plenty of black pepper
4-5 teaspoons salt
α generous handful of coriander seeds

Place the goat ßη α large casserole, coating urell yrith olive οßΙ, and
rubbing ßη τhε salt and pepper. Before ρυτtßηg it ßη τhε oven,
sprinkle it with coriander seeds. Piace ßη α 3Ζ5Ο F ( ι6ο" C) oven
and bake, basτing it wßτh iτs ornln juices until ßτ falis off the bone
(45 minutes to one hour). Delicious urith mint sauce, Recipe 2ο,
 Recipe ΖΖ

SΤUFFED SUCKLΙNG PΙG

Garden-style suckling pig, according to Apicius: "De-bone the
pig starting at the throat, rendering ßt something similar to α
rηrine skin, and fill it rηrith chicken meatballs, vrild doves, and
thrushes, its οlητη meat added into meatballs, pitted flgs, dried
and prepared rvild hyacinth bulbs, shelled snails, beet greens,
leeks, celerμ boiled kale tops, coriander, peppercorns, pine nuts.
Οη top οf this, add ι5 hard-boiled and diced eggs, and α sauce
made from liguamen (either garum or dressing from olive οßΙ,
vinegar, and spices), mixed lots of crushed pepper. Brorηrn
r,ηrith
the pig ßη α ραη and then put it ßη the oven." Apicius then con-
cluded by suggesting sauces to serve r,ηrith ßt.

18-2Ο pound (4 kg) suckling pig

For the stuffing:

2 thrushes (pigeons can be substituted and are easier
to find), de-boned and cut into small pieces
1 small duck, de-boned and cut into small pieces
4-6 figs, diced
] cup (25Ο mI) cooked kale
ß cup (25Ο ml) already cooked, dried, and diced
hyacinth bulbs (see preparation method at
Recipe 9)
r,/zteaspoon coriander
1 cup (25Ο ml) chopped leeks
1 stalk celery, chopped

2 tablespoons pine nuts

º pound (5ΟΟ 9) τ,vheat polenta or fine bu|gur, cooked,
cooled, and cubed
Ι2 eggs, hard-boiled, cooled, and diced (Ι used 12-
larger here than ßη ancient Greece)
1/Ζ cup ('Ι25 ml) dressing (οßΙ, vinegar, and garlic)

Garnish:
12 oysters out of the shell
º2 clams out of the shell

]
Fo]lorη,. Apicius's instτuctions above, having α butcher de-bone
yourselfifyou are braye. Preheaτ τhε
τhε pig lor γου, or doing it
oven το 4òοΟ F (Ζ3ο'C). Lightly mix τhε sιuffing ingredienτs,
adding τhε eggs and dressing last. Sτuff τhe pig and serηr ßτ closed.
Rub olive οß1 and salt into the skin. Cook fοτ Ζο minutes ßη the
hot oven to seal ßη the juices and to brolπn it. Then turn oven
το 325Ο F (ι6οΟ C) for about αη hour and α hali or υητß1 iuice
comes ουτ clear rηrhen pig is pricked with α fork ßη the thickest
ραττ of τhε τhigh.

{lr
{ι
Ι:' .
τΙ ' ,'

| Ι-"
Recipe Ζ3

ROSE A,ND BRAΙN PUDDΙNG

"...Ι call τhis rose dish rodonia and Ι prepare ßt ßη such α manner
οη
that rvhen γου eat it, γου ηοt οηlγ have α designated cro\Λ/n
your head, but are also perfumed within, treating your body to
α truly complete meai. Crush the most aromatic roses ßη the
morτal, and then carefully place chicken and pig brains, de,
nerved and rveii-dressed, rnlith egg γοΙκ, then season r,ηlith olive
οßΙ, garum, pepper, and rηrine, Μßχ together rnrell and ρυt
ßt ßη α
ηε\η/ pot to cook over α Ιοτητ, constant flame, When
the cook
opens the everyone present rηrill smell the delicious aroma
ροt,
of roses."

We incιude this recipe for completeness rather than practicalit1,

because τhe ingredients are almost impossible to obtain ßη this
day and age. Perhaps someone, maybe α larmer ßη the Greek
countryside, can make this dish. Make sure γου use homegrorι,n
roses aS the commercially raised ones are heavily sprayed,

ºΟ οΖ. (3ΟΟ 9) pork brains

8 οΖ. (2οο 9) chicken brains
2 tablespoons vinegar
α few slices of οηßοη and carrot
2 tablespoons marsaIa ινßηε
pepper
3ο aromatic roses, petals plucked and crushed
2 teaspoons Vietnamese fish sauce (nuoc-nam)
2 tablespoons olive οßΙ
5 eggs, beaten
pepper to taste

Immerse the brains ßη cold rvater for αη hour, then drain, The:l
place them ßη cold salted r,nrater mixed rvith vinegar and α fe,ι
slices of οηßοη and carrot. Bring the \Λ/ater to α boil, and τhει
lovrer the flame and let the mixture boil for about ιrvenτy min-
utes. As soon as the brains are cooked, put them into cold
rvaιe:

again and r,vhen they are completely cooled dorη,n, skin and de-
nerve them. Set them aside ιο dry covering them rvith peppe:
that has been soaked ßη Marsaιa τητßηe. Μßχ the brains ιvith thι

66
 eggs, τhε rose petals, the fish sauce, and α little οßß, If γου do not
have α brazier, rηrhich could give uniform heating to the dish,
fοΙßοι,ητ the Greek formula and brorηrn the mixture fiτst, and then
press compactly ßηtο αη oiied mold. Cook it ßη α doub]e-
it
boiler for αη hour, or until the mixture is hardened. Το test if it
is done, stick α toothpick ßηtο the flan; it should come out clean.
Unmold ßτ onto α plate, sprinkle rvith pepper, and serve.

ι
 Recipe Ζ4

BOΙLED PΙG,S FΕΕΤ

From various texts \Λ/ε are given to understand that pig's feet
r-ηrere served. Antiphanes ßη his Thel4/oman of Corinth, rηrrites: "And

then α litτle pig's foot to Aphrodite" (Athenaeus, 3.95e-f ). Τhατ

ιhey vrere served boiied is explained by Pherecrates ßη The Miners:
"trotters lηrell-boiled" (ibid., 3.96α);the same author mentioned
ιhem again ßη his The Slave-¸acher (ibid., 3.96b).

6 pig's feet (ask the butcher to iemove the bristles

and cut them ßη quarters)
3 quarts (3 liters) \Vater
º large οηßοη
2 carrots
3 stalks of celery
2 tablespoons salt
1/Ζ cup (125 ml) white vinegar
vinegar and pepper to taste when serving

Put 3Ζcup (Ζοο ml) \^/ater ßη large ραη yrith Ζ tablespoons of salt
and % cup (ιΖ5 ml) i.ιrhite rnrine vinegar. Bring το α boil, adding
the diced vegetables, \Λ/hen the $/ater returns to α boil, add the
pig's feet, r,ηrell cleaned. Cook until they are τητε11 done and falting
ofΓthe bone, about ι5 minutes for small pig's feet or 3ο minutes
ιι for large ones. When they are cool enough to touch, ρυ11 the
meat off the bones and heap it οηtο α plate. Sprinkle with pep-
per and vinegar to taste. Serve hot rηrith lots of fresh bread.

Noτe:The lefτover broth is good for making ΙεητßΙ soup: iusτ add
lenti]s and cook. The spices and meat flavor make for αη interest-
ing and delicious soup.
 Recipe Ζ5

ι slÞοΚΕD ΡιG,S FΕΕτ

Pig's feet can also be served smoked, and ßη this case they are
served covered ßη melted, smoked cheese. This dish was once
readily available ßη Rome: one had οηΙγ to go to α store special-
izing ßη porchetta dei Castel]i, α pig stuffed and roasted rηrhole,
highly salτed and spiced, rηrhich vras served at festivals and food
sιands α11 over ltaly. But recently it has become hardeτ to find.

6 smoked pig's feet

;2 pound (3ΟΟ g) grated smoked cheese
1 tablespoon olive οßΙ

Put the pig's feet ßη αη oiled ραη and cover it vrith cheese. Cook
Γor about ιο minutes ßη α hot oven (about +25Ο F or ΖΖòΟ C) to
αΙΙοτητ the cheese to melt.

τοΝGυΕ
Aτistophanes mentions tongue ßη α list of alteτnatives to
anchovies (Athenaeus 3.96c). Βυt there is ηο information as to
holv they \Λ/ere prepared. Probably they were boiled and then
flavored r,ηrith some garum (fish sauce).

ORGAN ΜΕΑΤS
_\lso mentioned by Aristophanes (Athenaeus, ibid.) is α laundry
Ιßsτof internal organs: liver, inrild boar kidneys, τibs, tongue,
spleen, and piglet tripe, α11 slaughtered ßη autumn, vrhich he
recommends be served vrith hot rolls. Dioxippus ßη Α Foe to Pimps

menτions "srnreetbreads, paunch, and entrails" (ibid., Iooe),

ιyhile Eubulus, ßη τhe Deucalion, lists chicken livers, guτs, lungs,
and tripe.
So\M,S BELLY
This dish is mentioned by Alexis ßη The Μαη from Pontus, making
fun of τhe oraτor Callimedon, who r,vas nicknamed "τhe Lobsτer"
(or Crayfish) because of his greediness: "Every man is vrilling το
die for his countrμ but Cal]imedon the Crayfish rηrould doubtless
submit to death for α boiled sow's paunch" (Athenaeus 3. ιooc).

Boiled sor.v's belly lvas served iηrith α sauce based οη vinegar and
silphium. Keep ßη mind that silphium (ηο longer found) had α
flavor like garlic. So ßη ουτ time, obtaining α sorv's belly and
ιvishing tο eat it-t\Λ/o things that seem improbable to me-it
rηrould do to mix vinegar, mixed rvith crushed garlic and perhaps
α bßτ of οßΙ, sαΙτ, and pepper (ibid., 3,ιοοÞ. Iη Μαη of Science,
Sopater rvriies: "α slice of sorηr's matrix ηοt over cooked, r,ηrith
pungenτ brine-and-vine8ar Sauce inside" (ibid., 3. Iοια).

VULVA ΕΙΕòΤΙΤΙΑ
This rηras the νυΙνα of α sorηr that had miscarried. Τt rηras consid-
ered especially tasty and it rηras mentioned by Hipparchus, ιhe
author of the Egyptian liiad (Athenaeus 3 . I ο ι α) .

The enτraiis of lamb, goats, pigs, and oτher domesτicaτed

animals rηrere αΙΙ eaten ßη antiquity, and many are sti]l seryed
today. Hor.ιrever, although they rvere considered delicious de]i,
cacies ßη former times, sornr's νυΙνα and breasts are not eaien
today. For these foods, we have Apicius's recipes and rηre knorι-
that normally νυlνα \Λ/αs eaten boiled and accompanied by α
sauce similar to the one listed ßη Recipe Ζ4 for boiled pig's feeι.
lιrhereas solηr's breasts, once boiled, vrere sprinkled r,vith salt, ρυι
οη α skeιver, and roasted or grilled or stuffed lηrith "αΙΙ of god's
best." Even if rηre rηranted to try these dishes today rvhich Ι dουbι.
it i,vould be impossible given the mechanized meat-processing
systems: after the animal is completely emptied and the parts αι€
butchered, it yrou]d not be possible to locate the νυΙνα or breasts
of α sornr.
 Seafood
,\ccording to Daphnus of Ephesus, Archestratus took α trip
"ατουηd the world" to gratiφ his palate as rηrell as his more basic
appetites. (We must bear ßη mind that his "rηrorld" r,ηras limited
:ο Greece, Magna Graecia, the Bosporus, and part of the coast of
Asia Minor.) υροη his return, he counsels α friend as to rηrhere
:ο eat and rvhat to order:

Eat, dear Moschus, α slice of Sicilian tunny, cut at the time rηrhen
it should be salted ßη iars. But ιhe shabar, α τelish from Pontus, ]

rvould consign to the lorηrest regions, as rηrell as αlΙ ιητhο pτaise it.
For ferηr there be among mortals rryho knour that it is α poor and
insipid morsel. Take, horvever, α mackerel ιhree days out οf the
,vater, before it enters the pickle and rηrhile it is still nerv ßη ihe
iar and οηlγ half-cuιed. And if thou go to the sacred city of glo-
rious Byzantium, eat again, Ι ρταγ γου, α slice of horaion; foI it is
good and luscious, (Athenaeus 3. Iι6f- ιι7α)

Then he goes οη to list αΙΙ the Κηοτητη mollusks, explaining rvhere

:ο find the best ones:

Aenus produces large mussels, Abydus oystels, Parium crabs;

Mitylene scallops. Ambracia, too, supplies very many, and along
rηlith them monstlous. . . . and ßη Messene's ηαττο\Λ/ frith ιhου
shalτ gετ giant lιrhelk, ßη Ephesus also the smooth cockles, not tο
be despised. Calchedon gives oysteτs but as for perir-vinkles
("heralds") may Zeus confound them, rηrhether they come from
the sea or the assembly, excepting one man οηΙγ. That man is my
comrade, his home is οη Lesbos of the luscious glapes, and his
name is Agathon (Archestratus, quoted ßη Athenaeus 3. 9zd-e.)
Recipe Ζ6

LoBSτER
"Βυγ yourself α lobster, the kind yrhich has long clarvs, and
heavy urithal, vrith feet that are small, and but slowly crarπls he
υροη τhε land. Μοsτ of them, and the best of αΙΙ ßη qυαΙßτγ, are
ßη τhε Lipari Islands; yet the Hellespont also gaτhers many"
(Archesτraτus, quoted ßη Athenaeus 3. ι o4f- ι οòα).

4 live lobsters, about Ι pound (4ΟΟ 9) each

3 tablespoons olive οßΙ
'Ι tablespoon vinegar
α Iarge pinch of oregano
3 tablespoons salt
pepper to taste

Make α marinade from the οßΙ, vinegar, olegano, and salt and
pepper, and put ßt aside. Slice the live lobsters ßη half and put
τhεm το cook οη α grill. As they cook baste them òοητßηυαΙΙγ
rnriτh the marinade. Check often to see if they are cooked (ßι
about 5-7 minutes they should turn red ßη the shell);too much
cooking makes them tough and inedible.

Recipe Ζ7

FRIED SI{RΙMP
"...If γου ever manage to get to lasus, α city of the Carians,
γου rnrill get α good-sized shrimp. But it is rare ßη the market,
rπrhereas ßη Macedonia and Ambracia theτe aτe plenty" (Athen-
aeus 3. Io5e).

2 lbs. (t Κ9) shrimp

lots of οΙßνε οßΙ for frying
salt to taste

Put about 1/Ζ ιΖ5 ml) of οßΙ ßη α frying ραη and when ßt is
cup (

very hot but not smoking, toss ßη the shrimp. Fry them for 6-7
minutes, stilring frequently and gently.
Recipe Ζ8

ΑΜιΑ (BLUEFIN τυΝΑ)

As for the amia, prepare that ßη ιhe autumn, rηrhat time the Pleiad
is settlng, and ßη αηγ way thou likest. Why need Ι recite it for
τhee rvord for rnlord? For thou canst ηοι possibly spoil it even if
τhou so desire. Still, if thou insist, dear Moschus, οη being
insirucτed here also is the best r,vay to dress τhat fish, rvrap ßτ ßη
fig-ieaves urith α very iittle marjoram, Νο cheese, ηο nonsenseI
Just place it tenderly ßη figJeaves and tie them οη top with α

sfting; then push ßι under hot ashes, bethinking thee wisely of

ihe ιßmε yrhen ßt is done, and burn it υρ not. Let it come to ihee
{τοm lovely ΒγΖαηtßυm ifthou desire the best, yet ινßΙτ get rvhat
is good even if it be caught somerηrhere neal this place here.
Βυτ ßτ is poolel the farther thou goest from the Hellespontine
Sea, and ßf thou jouιney ovel the glorious coulses of the briny
Aegean main, it is ηο longer the same, but utterly belies my
earlier praise (Archestratus quoιed ßη Athenaeus 7 .Ζ,7 8α- c).

ΤυΝΑ COOKED ΙΝ ASHES

2 pounds (º Κ9) tuna, cut into pieces

enough grape leaves to hold the tuna (about 4Ο)
4 teaspoons fine salt
2 pinches of marjoram

Make α Þrood fire and let it buτn dor,ηrn to embers. Μßχ the
chunks of fish lvith the salt and mar]oram, then ro1l them υρ
ßη the leaves, like burrltos, so that the mixture is secure inside.
Using αΙΙ due caution, place the rolls οη top of the ashes, let-
τßηg τhem cook about 5 minutes tο α side, being careful not to
burn them.
«GoNoS"

Ligurian red and Sicilian neriιlborn transparent gobies

Sardine sprats or young sardines
Sea anemones from Sardinia

Count αΙΙsmall fry as abomination, except the Athenian; Ι mean

gonos, urhich the lonians call "Γοαm" |sεpiolite, still found today

ßη Sicily, where many old Magna Graecian habits are preserved,

palticularly the terms for sea life; the little f,sh called nunnata
(newborn) are calied grommo, r,vhich means mucousy] and accept
it οηΙγ rvhen it is caught fresh ßη the sacred arm of Phalerum's
beautiful bay.That rvhich is found ßη ocean-rηrashed Rhodes is
good, if ßτ be native. And if γου desire to ιasτe it, γου should ατ
τhe same τßmε get at the malket some nettles-sea anemones
crornτred lvith leafy tenιacles. Mixing them with it, bake it ßη α

ραη, αΓτετ γου have made α sauce οΓ the fτagrant tops of choice
greens mixed ßη οß1, (ArchestΙatus, quoted ßη Aιhenaeus

7. z85b-c)

Ενßdεητßγ τhε besτ \Λ/αγ το tasτe these tiny ΙßττΙε fish (gonos) vras
to cook them ßη αη herb sauce.
Archestratus also recommended sea anemones. Given thaτ
τoday these animals are ηοß sold ßη fish markets, one vrould have
tο find them oneself at the seashoIe. But remembel to \Λ/eατ
gloves and be careful tο keep them far from the eyes. Once
harvested and r.ηrashed carefully under running iΛrater, insert α
finger ßηtο the opening \Λ/here the anemone \Λ/αs attached to the
rock to remove αηγ bits of stone that might remain ßη its bodi,
cavity. After that, clean the anemones again ßη running \Λ/αtει
to rid them of αηγ traces of sand and let them marinate αη hουτ
ßη vinegar. Α disciple of Archestratus added that, given the
small amount of heat needed to òοοκ these little fish and
anemones, it was enough iust to toss ihem into α ραη that had
begun tο sizzle.

74
Recipe Ζ9

ΒΙτs AND PIEcEs: SMALL FISH FRY

2 lbs. (] kg) fish eggs, baby sardines, and smelt

(ßη lieu of transparent gobies, sardine eggs,
and anemones)
salt to taste
οßΙ for frying
α pinch of thyme
α pinch of rosemary
α pinch of oregano
r,/z οηßοη, minced

Chop τhε fish ßητο small bites after cleaning thoroughly and rins-
ing ßη salt \Λ/ater. Heat the οß1, add the spices and οηßοη, and
τητhεη the onions are brovrned, add the fish, Αt the fiτst sign of
sizzling, take them out, and serve them immediately,
Recipe 3ο

ΤΗΟRΝΒΑòΚ RAY
"Eat α boiled ray ßη the season of mid-rvinter, r,ι.ith cheese and
silphium οη ßτ. And so, r.ηrhatever offspring of the ocean have
α flesh that is not too fat should be dressed ßη this way"
(Athenaeus 7.286d). And aiso, "Scylla's stralt ßη r.vooded ΙταΙ1,
contains the glorious iatus, α rηronderful food" (Athenaeus
7.3ιIf).
.

3 lbs, (2 Κ9) thornback ray or skate ß

1 gaIlon (5 liters) of \^/ater

1 cup (25Ο ml) vinegar

3 tablespoons coarse Salt
Ι οηßοη
2 carrots
2 stalks of celery
2 bay leaves
1stalk of parsley
ºtablespoon pepper
grated pecorino cheese
2 garlic cloves, minced

One eats οηΙγ the vrings and liver of the ray, It is good boiled.
but οηlγ lvhen very fresh.
Ρυt the \vater, vinegar, salt, and αΙΙ the spices, except th€
pepper, rηrhich is added ßη the last ten minutes, ßηtο α ραη large
enough to hold the ray. Put ßη the ray and cook over α lorηr flame.
siovrly bringing the ραη to α boil and then lorvering τhε flame
α bit more, controlling the cooking. After ιο minuτes, add ιhe
pepper.The ray should be done ι5-Ζο minutes after the saucτ
boiis: the meat τνßΙ1 be coming arvay from the cartilage. Put it οι
α plate, and remoye the skin (if necessary). Μßχ the cheese τ-η,ßý
the minced garlic and sprinkie over the ray. Let the dish sit for α
fe\η/ minutes, so the flavors have α chance to blend.
Recipe 3 ι

SΤΕ\ΜΕD CONGER EEL

"Ιη Sicyon, dear frieιrd,
γου have the lread of α coιιger eel, Ιαt,
vigorous, and large; also αΙΙ the belly parts... ," and later, "γου
can catch α nice conger-eel, lηrhich is as muclι superior to αΙΙ
other fishes as the fattest tunny |tuna] is superior to the poor-
est cro\Δ/-fish" (Aτlrenaeus 7 .Ζγf - ι,9 φ).

"Τ pralse α11 eels, to be sure; bιιt much tlιe best is the eel caught
ßιι
thατ part of the sea rηrlrich is opposite the straiτs of Rhegium.
There, γου citizen of Messina, have the advarιtage over α11 other
mortals, for γοιι can put such food as that ßο γουι iips. And
γετ
the Copaic and Strymonian eels bear α very mighty repute for
excellence; for they are large and r,ι.onderfully Γat. Iη general, it
is my belief τhατ τhe eel is king of αlΙ yiands ατ τlτε feasτ and
guides τhe rvay το pleasure, though ßτ is tlre οηΙγ fish το which
nature lιas given ηο scrotum" (Athenaeus 7.z98e-f ).

Here Athenaeus is er.ldently talking about adult eels οη τheir

αηηυαΙ ιnigration to their sparvniιrg grounds ßη the Sargasso Sea;
the rest οf tlιe time, adult eels live ßη rivers, lakes, and ponds.

3 lbs. (2 Κ9) of eel, heads and beIly

º9αΙΙοη (5 liters) of rvater
] cup (25Ο ml) vinegar
3-4 tablespoons sea salt
1 οηßοη
] carrot
2 stalks of celery
2 bay leaves
1 staIk of parsley
3Ο peppercorns

Sauce:
6 tablespoons οΙßνε οßΙ
2 tablespoons vinegar
2 cloves garlic, minced
] stalk of minced parsley
α large pinch of oregano
 One οηΙγ eats the head and belly of the eel, since the rest is noth-
ing but spines.
Slice and chop the vegetables, and add them to τhe vrater.
Add sαΙτ, peppercorns, and vinegar, and, lastly, the cut-up eel.
Bring to boil and cook for about ιò minutes. Serve ßη bowls with
\Λ/ατm crusty bread, and add the basting sauce for taste.

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Recipe 3Ζ

BAKED BLUEFIN ΤυΝΑ

"And have α tail-cut from the she-tunny-the large she-tunnχ
Ι repeat, lηrhose motheτ-city is Byzantium. Slice it and roast it αΙΙ
rightly sprinkling just α little salt, and buttering it \Λ/ßτh οßΙ, Εατ
ihe slices hot, dipping them ßηtο α sauce piquante; they are nice
eyen if γου \Λ/αηt to eat them ρΙαßη, like the deathless gods ßη
form and stature" (Archestratus, quoted inAthenaeus 7.3o3e*f).

The ancient Greeks used vinegar as r,,ιre rηrould ηο\Λ/ use lemon
juice. When lemons rηrere first imported, Greeks and Romans
considered them useful οηΙγ to protect rnrool from moths, as α
plevenτative against snakebites, and as the best antidote to αηγ
kind of poison. Unfortunately, it never dar.ηrned οη them τhat the
lemon could have alimentary value.

21/Ζ lbs, (1.5 kilos) of tuna

3 tablespoons fine salt
3 tablespoons olive οßΙ
vinegar to sprinkle over the top just before eating
(also superb is α mixture of vinegar, οßΙ, and garlic)

For this recipe there is little to add to rηrhat Archestratus stated

above. Ρουτ the olive οßΙ and salt over the fish and cook at about
375Ο F (ΖοοΟ C) for 3ο-4ο minuτes, depending οη ßτs τhickness.
It is done when the skin is crisp and the tuna comes arvay from
the bone, juicy but not bloody. It can also be cooked directly οη
the grill, οη fοßl, for about 5-7 minutes per side.
Recipe 33

ΚιτΑRοS (BRιLL, τυRΒοτ, oR SoLE)

"As for the citharus [brill], if it be rηrhiτe and hard and large, Ι
bid γου ρυt it ßη leaves ßη clean salt r,ηrater and boil it" (Arclre
straιus, quoτed ßη Athenaeus 7.3o6b).

If γου have α laτge and r.ηrhite brill, boil it ßη this manner:

4 lbs. (2 kg) of brill, turbot, sole, or flounder

2 gallons (5 liters) of \^/ater
Ι cup (25Ο ml) vinegar
2 tablespoons coarse salt
º οηßοη
2 carrots
2 celery stalks
2 bay leaves
º stalk of parsley
Ι,/Ζ tablespoon pepper
grape leaves

Put the cut υρ fish into grape leaves and tie them securely vrith
kitchen string, Next chop the vegetables and put them ßη α iarge
cooking pot rvith the cold \η/αtετ, the spices, and the vinegar.
Place the rvrapped fish ßη the mixture and sloivly bring the rvater
οηΙγ to α simmer; \Λ/atch it carefully to see that the rvater does
not boil violently. A|ter ι5 minutes, check to see if the fish is
cooked, as it will depend οη hοτητ thick the fish pieces are. When
done, take the fish meat out of the leaves, discarding the leaves.
Pour the sauce oyer the fish and serve, sprinkling wßτh vinegar,
ßf more flavor is desired.
For α less labor-intensive verslon, place the fish directly ßη
the stelηr pot, ιvithout the leaf wrapping.
Recipe 34

BAKED ΤυRΒΟΤ FOR SIX

"But if it be red ßη appearance, and not too large, bake it αfτετ

γου have sτabbed its body ιητßth α sτraight knife, freshly sharp-
ened. Then smear it rηrith αbιιηdαηòe of cheese and οßl. For it
likes tο see people who spend moneμ and it is prodigal" (Arche-
stratus, quoted ßη Athenaeus 7.3o6b).

2 small turbot, about 21/Ζ lbs. (1.4 kg) altogether

4 teaspoons Salt
6 οΖ. (3ΟΟ 9) grated parmesan or sardo cheese
plenty of olive οßΙ

Gut and clean the fish as necessaly. Prelreat the oven to 35οΟ F
(ι8ο'C). ]υsτ before you're ready to bake, salt the fish. Using
α sharp knife, make α series of cuts οη both sides of the spine
and fill them τη.ßtΙι grated cheese and οß1. Slatlrer the fistr rηrith οß1
and bake it ßη α well-greased ραη for 3ο minutes. Also delicious
grilled οη thc barbeιue.

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Recipe 35

SΜΟΟΤΗ DOGFΙSH
This recipe for αΙΙ types of dogfish, such as marlin or blue
\Λ/οτΚs
shark, or mahi-mahi ßη the United States.

Ιη this city of Τοτοηθ γου should buy the belly-slices of the

dog-shark, cuι from ιhε hollolv palts be]o\Λι. Then spτinkle them
ντßτh caτarvay,seed and α little salt, and bake. Ρυτ nothing else,
my friend, υροη it, unless it be yellola οßl. But afteT it is baked,
γου may τhen fetch α sauce and αΙ1 ιhose condiments r,vhich go
ιητßth ßτ. Βυt rηrhatsoever γου stew r.ηlithin the ribs οf the holiovr
casserole, mix ηο lηrater from α sacred spring, nor wine-vinegar,
bυι simply ρουι ovel it οß1 and dry caraway and some fτagrant
leaves αΙ1 togetheι. Cook it over the hot embers rvithout letting
the flame τουòh it and stir it diligently lest γου unwiττingly
scorch ßτ. Ναμ not many mortals knorv of τhßs heavenly viand
οτ consent tO eat it-a]l those mortals, τhat is, τητhο poSSeSS the

ρυηγ soul οf the booby-bird, and are smitten rvith palsy because.
as they say, the creature is α man-eater. But eveτy fish loyes
human flesh if it can but get it" (Archestratus, quoιed ßη
Aιhenaeus 7.3ιoc-e).

2-3 lb. ('Ι,5 Κ9) slice of smooth dogfish or mahi-mahi

3 teaspoons Salt
6 tablespoons olive οßΙ
plenty of carararay seeds

This fish is cooked οη the griil. Bathe the piece or pieces abui-
dantly rvith οß1 and sprinkle them rηrith salt and cara\Λ/ay seeds,
then place it οη the grill. Iη some dishonest restaurants dog-
fish is cooked this rvay and passed off as syrordfish, alτhougt
the particular taste of dogfish cannot be concealed from the
cognoSCenti.
Υου can serve it rvith α sauce rather than the cararvay seeds:
one of the best is Sicilian pickling, from the nalive environs ο:
Aτchesτratus himself, This dressing is made by mixing οß1, vine-
gar, oregano, α felηr cloves of gaτiic, and α bit of r.vater. Regard-
ing Archestratus's comment about such fish eating men, don'i
be impressed: although the dogfish is ßη the shark family it is α

completely innocuous fish and vrould never dream of bitlng

anyone. Athenaeus adds that this fish is the same one the Romans
called tursio.

Recipe 36

MoRAY EEL
"Beτrηreen fSicily?] and ltaly under τhε rηraves of the narrow
sτταßτ, liyes τhε lamprey fmoray eel] called the floater. Ιf ßτ ever be
caughτ, buy it, for it is α wonderful food" (Athenaeus 7.3I2f).

3 lbs, (].5 kg) moray eel or yellow eel

Sauce:
º handful of lovage
lots of oregano
α large pinch of mint
'lοηßοη
1 glass of dry white ιvine

enough \Λrater to cover thθ eel

2 teaspoons honey
27Ζ teaspoons salt

Crush togetheτ the sauce ingredients ßη α mortar. Clean the eel

τrell and place ßt ßη α ραη; cover it with the sauce, rπretting it as
necessary inrith r,ηrine or $/ater. Cover the eel urith this mixture,
then add enough ]Λ/ater tο cover the eel. Cook it οη α lornr flame
υητßΙ it is urell done. There should be α bit of sauce remaining.
Recipe 37

ELECΤRIC RAY
"And αη electric ray stevred ßη οßΙ, r,ηrine, fragrant herbs with α bit
of grated cheese" (Archesτratus, quoted ßη Aτhenaeus 7.3|+Ü).

It be difficult to taste this dish as one nevel sees electric eel

ιητß11

ßη the market. Horηrever, should γου manage to find it, here is

the recipe:

4 lbs. (2 kg) of electric ray

4 teaspoons salt
α small glass of dry white ινßηε
α handful of οηßοη, celery, parsley, and carrots
to flavor the broth
31/Ζ οΖ. (1ΟΟg) grated cheese

Cook slor.ιrly ßη α terracotta pot rvith salt, r,ηrine, οß1, and herbs.
adding the grated cheese at the last minute. Archestratus prob
ably r.vould have used pecorino cheese, not having parmesan
available, but ßt is best rηrith parmesan.You choose. Cover the raν
lvith the cheese and r,vhen it has baτely meited, take it out of the
ραη and serve.
 Recipe 38

S\Λ/ORDFISH
"But rnrhen thou comest to Byzantium, get α slice of sr.ηrord-fish,
the joinτ òυτ right lrom the tail. This fish is also good ßη τhe
sτraighτ hard by the edge of Peiorum's ßυττßηg forehead"
(Athenaeus 7.3I+e).

21/Ζ lbs. (2 Κ9) swordfish

3 teaspoons salt
3 tablespoons olive οßΙ
vinegar to taste

This is quite similar to Recipe 3Ζ by Archestratus. Get slices of

swordfish about αη inch thick, and roast them οη the grill,
adding α bßτ of salτ and οßΙ per slice. Grill about 2 mßηυτεs per
side; do not over- or undercook. Serve as is, ιητßth α spritz of
vinegar (or lemon), or rηrith the fο]Ιοß.ητßηg dressing: olive οß1,
vinegar, salt, oregano, α clove of garlic, mixed ιητßth α bit of
\Δ/ater; shake it ßητεΙΙ, or stir with α branch of oregano.

L
Recipe 39

SCORPION FΙSH
"Βυτ inThasos buy the sculpin
fscorpion fish], if ßτ be ηοτ big- 1

ger than thine arm's length (Athenaeus 7.gzo.f 1, ι

This recipe is from Apicius:

ß
21/zlbs, (].5 kg) scorpion fish ß
3 teaspoons salt
pIenty of olive οßΙ
Ι

] packet (º οΖ, or 3Ο g) saffron

cumin
Ι
Ι/Ζ teaspoon
Ι
ιΛ/ater to cover the fish
Ι

Archestιatus suggests buying α scorpion fish ηο longer τhαη γουτ Ι

arm (αbουτ Ζο inches or 55 cm). Clean it τητεΙΙ and place ßτ ßη α Ι
ραη urith αΙΙ τhε rest of τhe ingredienτs, rnrell ground and dis- Ι
solved ßη the οßΙ and α little rηrater. Cover the flsh ιητßth waιer. ald Ι
cook about ι5 minutes after the \Λ/atel has come tο α boil, or Ι
until τhε flesh comes ar,ιray from the bone. Take τhe fish ουτ and Ι
òοητßηυε το cook the liquid until it τhickens, adding α bßτ of Ι
 Recipe 4ο

PARROT FΙSH
"At Calchedon by the sea bake the mighty parrot-fish, after
rvash-
ing it urell, But ßη Byzantium, too, thou urilt find ßτ good, and
as το ßτs size, ßτ bears α back equal to τhε ciτcling shield. Dress
the rvhole as Ι shall describe. After it has been thoroughly cov-
eτed vrith cheese and οßΙ, take it and hang it ßη α hot oven and
bake ßτ το α τυτη. Sprinkle it uiith salt mixed rπith carar,vay-seed,
and υτιτh τhe yellol,v οßΙ, pouring its divine fουηταßη from τhγ
hand (Archestratus, quoted ßη Athenaeus 7.3zοα).

Ι parrot fish, about 4 lbs, (2 kg)

6 tablespoons olive οßΙ
Ι/Ζ cup (3ΟΟ g) 9rated pecorino cheese
4 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon caraway seeds

Βυγ α large whole paτIot fish. Scale, gut, and urash ßτ. Ρυτ ßτ ßη α
heavy pot, preferably terracotta, and cover rnrith οßΙ, cheese, and
sαΙτ, (Ιτ is best if γου make transverse cuts οη both sides of
the
fish and inseτt τhε salt, cheese, and οßΙ ßη these cuts,) Put the fish
ßη τhε oven at 3Ζ5Ο F (ι6οΟ C) for 3ο-45 mßηυτεs, depending
οη the thickness. Once cooked, put it οη α serving dish and
sprinkle οη α bit more salt and the carav/ay seeds, adding α good
quantity of οßΙ (if γου urish).
Recipe 4ι

BREAM
"Whensoe'er Orion is setting ßη the heavens, and the mother of
the rnrine-bearing ciuster begins to cast arnray her tresses, then
have α baked sarg fbream], oveτspread rnrith cheese, large, hot,
and rent urith pungent vinegar. For its flesh is by nature tough_
And so be mindful and dress every tough fish ßη the same uray.
Βυt the good fish, r,ηrith naturally tender, fat flesh, sprinkle rnriτh
α little sαΙτ οηΙγ and baste ivith οßl. For it conτains ντßτhßη iτself
alone the relηrard of joy" (Archestratus, quoted ßη Athenaeus
/_ζLlL).

2 bream, each about 2 lbs. (º kg)

or
º large bream, about 3 lbs. (º,5 Κ9)
1 teaspoon table salt
Ι/ι cup (º5Ο 9) grated pecorino cheese
plenty of olive οßΙ

balsamic vinegar for the table

Make three transverse cuts into each side of the fish, rubbing ßη
α little salt, and putting the cheese ßη the cuts, and then pour ýe

olive οßΙ over the fish. Roast it ßη the oven (35ο" F or ι8οΟ C) for
2ο-3ο minutes, or untii crispy. Serve it \Λ/ith good quality bal-
samic vinegar.
Bream meaτ is quite salty. Other, more tender fish, such as
the grey mullet or bass, can be cooked ßη α similar manner vrith
more salt, and once ßη α τrhile sprinkled ντßτh οßΙ during baking-
Recipe 4Ζ

CUΤΤLEFΙSH
"Cuττle-flshes ßη Abdera, and ßη mid-Maroneia as lvell"
(Athenaeus 7.324b).

The οηlγ recipe found for making cuττlefish ßη black ßηΚ comes
from Apicius (ò.Ε.ò). Using rvhat he says as ινε11 as indicaτions
from other Greek authors, one can leconstruct this delicacy:
"Take tiny cuttlefish, as they are, rηrith αΙΙ the blackness and cook
ßτ αlΙ τogeτher. [Ρυt it ßη α ραη] and add οßΙ, dressing, ιη,ßηε, and
α 1eek, and green coriander. Cook it thus." The recipe continues
τητßth the sauce suggested by Apicius, that is, the ßηΚ, cooked
together τητßth the ingredients listed above by the other authors
(milk, cheese, honey garlic, and s\Λ/eet herbs).
Recipe 43

CUΤΤLEFISH ERASΙSTRAΤUS SΤYLE

Other authors speak about α cuttlefish sauce probably made from
ßτs black ßηΚ, τητhατ they call "blood": Erasisτraτus r,ιrriτes ßη his Αττ
of CοοΚετμ "It is made lvith cooked meat, ste\Λ/ed ßη rvell-beaten
blood, honeμ cheese, salt, caralvaχ silphium (garlic), and vine-
gar." Glaucus of Rhodes π.riies ßη his Culinary Arts: "ure are deal-
ing here rηrith the blood sterved vrith garlic and cooked rηrine,
honeμ vinegar, milk, cheese, and srηreet minced herbs."

2 lbs. (º Κ9) cuttlefish

Ι/Ζ cu9 (125 mI) olive οßΙ
2 cloves garlic, sliced
Ι teaspoon Salt
α pinch of carararay seeds
2 teaspoons honey
lιlhite ιπßηε vinegar or lemon juice
Ι/Ζ cup (]25 ml) vghite vιuine

Ι οΖ. (5Ο 9) diced feta cheese

Clean the cuttlefish, setting aside the ßηΚ sacs and being òατεfι]]
ηοt to ρορ them. Heat the οßΙ ßη α lrying ραη and sαυtÝ garlic
υητßΙ it is golden. Remove the garlic, put ßη the cυτ-υρ cuttlefish.
and Ιετ ßτ fry α biτ \η/ßßh the salt, caraway and honey, then add τhε
ßηΚ. When it is crisp, add α good sprinkling of vinegar and τhe
τητßηε, follorηred by the cheese. Continue cooking until the cheesε
has made α soft sauce.
Recipe 44

RED MULLEΤ
The Greeks held certain bizarre beliefs regarding mυ]]ετ, α frsh
they believed rηras sacred to Aτtemis the Virgin. If α man \^/ere to
drink wine ßη r.ηrhich mullet had been dipped, his sexual desire
r,vas roused, \Δ/hereas r.ηrhen α \Λ/οmαη dτank the same rηrine, it
iηrould make her calm. This potion, better than today's birth
control ρßΙΙ, would impede pregnancy (Athenaeus 7.32òd).
Cooked mulleι did not have the same ρο\Λ/ειs, but it vras reserved
for gala afτernoon dinners. After praising the muiiet from τhε
city ofTeichious ßη the Milesian region, Aτchestratus continued,
"Also ßη Thasos buy α red mullet, and
γου wili get one that is
not bad. Ιη Teos it is inferior, yet even it is good, Ιη Erythrae,
too, ßτ is good, rvhen caught by the shore" (Athenaeus 7.gΖòε).
\Λ/ßthουt α doubt, this fish, more than others, orηres ßτs qualiτy
to rηrhere ßτ comes from. Ιη certain ]ocations τhis fish is full of α
disgusting acid.

"Clean it and place it ßη α

ραη urith α mixture of pepper, lovage,
oregano, mint, οηßοη and α solution of one part ιvine, one of
garum or οßΙ and vinegar, and α third part of honey and 'defri-
tum.'This sauce shoujd cover the fish and rηrhen ßt is done should
be greatly reduced" (Apicius lxc. I6).

3 lbs, (].5 Κ9) red mullet

pinch of pepper
1 branch of myrtle or α mixture of parsley and celery
Ieaves finely chopped
Ι small celery stalk, minced
] sprig of parsley
2 pinches of oregano
pinch of mint
Ι οηßοη
3 tablespoons Vietnamese fish sauce (nuoc nam)
or α chopped sardine
2 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon brandy

6 tablespoons wine
vr'ater
Tλke α vrell-cleaned mullet and put it ßη α ραη to fiτ snugly. Finely
dice τhe οηßοη ivith αΙ1 the herbs and the sardine, if used. Μßχ
the honey rnriτh τhε herbs and brandy and then dissolve ßτ αΙΙ ßη
iπrine and α little \Λ/ater; add the fish sauce, ßf used. Pour the sauce
over the fish, and put the ραη οη the fiτe. Let it cook at Ιο\Λ/ heat
υηtßΙ it is done, about Ζ5 minutes. The bones should be easily
removed, and the sauce should have been reduced to become
medium-thick. Once α11 the bones are out of the fish, ρυt it ßη α
bornrl, ρουτ the sauce over it, and serve.

*^J
Recipe 45

ALBACORE ΤυΝΑ HEAD

"Βυγ the head of α large tuna from the deep sea during the sum-
mer vrhen Phaeton guides his chariot fτom the sun ßη the max-
imum orbit and serve it boiling hot urith α sauce. Also buy α bit
of the belly το cook οη the spit. , . ."

"Αυlορßα" is none other than the albacore οτ longfin tυηα. Its

meat is the urhitest of the tunas and is generally the most deli-
òατε flavored. It is certainly the most digestible. Archestraτus
counsels boiling the head, obviously ßη rπater, salt, rnrine, spices,
and vinegar, and then eating it boiling hοτ. Iη theWesτ, τhε head
is seldom eaten, ιηrhereas ßη the East, for example, ßη China and
Japan, τhe head is considered the best part of the fish and is
offered το the guesτ of honor,
One may also grill skerπers of tuna steak, marinated lightly
ßη olive οßΙ, vinegar, garlic, parsley, and oregano, rnrith good
result.

Ι albacore tuna head

2 quarts (5 |iters) of \Λ/ater
ι/Ζ cup (25Ο ml) vinegar
3 tablespoons sea sa|t
] οηßοη
2 carrots
2 stalks of celery
2 bay leaves
º bunch of parsley
3Ο peppercorns
 Recipe 46

SCABBARD FISH
Ιη his book The,4rt of Cooking, Mithaecus gives α recipe fοτ cook-
ing scabbard fish οf yrhich Epicharmus states: " The beloved rib-
bon fish fscabbard fish], thin but srnreet, and requiring Ιßττßε frre"
(Aτhenaeus 7325f). Mithaecus pτescribes: "Clean τhe insides of
α ribbon-fish afτer òυττßηg off its head, rπrash and cut ßητο slices,
and pour cheese and οßΙ over them" (ibid.).
The scabbard fish is α silveτ fish, Ζ-Ζl/Ζ iπches (5-6 cm)
uride and α little over α yard ( ι m) long. It is not often found
ßη today's market. One good-sized flsh should feed αbουτ four
perSonS.

1 or 2 scabbard fish, depending οη size

1/Ζ cup (ΙΟΟ g) freshly grated pecorino cheese
olive οßΙ to cover bottom of ραη and more for
covering the fish
salt to taste
vinegar sprinkled οη each piece (balsamic is best)

Cut τhε fish ßη (Ζ-3 ßη. or 5-7

cm) portions and οßΙ τhe botτom
of α roasting ραη, then arrange the fish ßη the ραη, covering it
τrith cheese and then more οßl. If γου prefer, use paImesan
cheese ßηsτεαd of pecorino, but ßη Puglia ßt is stili τhought besτ
to make this fish rnrith pecorino. Sprinkie α bit of vinegar over the
pieces, and then put the fish ßη α 35οΟ F ( ι8ο' C) oven for about
ι5 minutes.

94

L
]
Recipe 47

SΤUFFED SaUΙD
The comic r,ηrriter Alexis included the following recipe for stuffed
squid ßη one of his rηrorks, as reported by Athenaeus: "As for the
squids, Ι chopped υρ τheir fin, mixed ßη α 1ßττΙε lard, sprinkled
them r,ηlith seasoning and stuffed them τ.ητlth frnely chopped
greens" (Alexi, quoted ßη Athenaeus 7,3z6e).

4 large squid or 11/Ζ lb, (75Ο 9) small squid

] teaspoon salt
2 cups (5ΟΟ g) diced beet or chicory greens
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
] bunch fresh parsley, chopped
1/ι cup (]οο g) diced fat bacon
pepper to taste
olive οßΙ

Chop the τentacles rηrith the bacon, adding the garlic, parsley, and
greens, flash-fried and diced. Add α pinch of pepper and οß] and
then sτuff τhε squid vrith this mixture. Selηr ßι so τhαt the fllling
does not fall ουt as it cooks. Ρυt ßt ßη α clay pot or shalloιιr roast-
ing ραη. Coaι τhe outside rvith olive οßΙ and α bit of salt and cook
at 375" F ( ι9οΟ C) for haif αη hour.

Θ
 Recipe 48

TRΙGGERFΙSH
"If thou go tο Ambracia's happy land
and chance to see τhe boaτ-
fish [τriggerfish], buy it and abandon ßt ηοt, even though it
cosτ
ßτs r,veighτ ßη gold, lest haply the dread \^/τατh of the
death]ess
ones shall breathe υροη thee. For that fish is the florver οf
nec-
tar. Yet το eat it or even tο catch α glimpse οf it
r,ηrith τhε eyes
is ηοt ordained for αΙΙ mortals, but it is possible οηΙγ for
those
rvho carry ßη their hands the holloiηr plaited texture of slvamp
1

gro\η/n rope, and are skilled ßη the practice of tossing pebbles ßη Ι

eager contention, and thror-ιring the bait of sheeps' joints'' Ι
(Aιhenaeus 7 Jοòd). l
Lateτ οη Athenaeus \η.Tites: "Iη Aenus and ßη Pontus
buy the
pig-fish, which some mortals call sand-digger. ΒοßΙ its head
rηriτh
out adding αηγ seasoning; simply place beside it α pounded
caper-plant, and if thou crave aught else, drop οη ßt
pungenτ
vinegar; soak itß.ητe]1 ßη this, then make haste to eατ
ßτ, even tο
the point of choking thyself ivith thy zeal'' (Aτhenaeus
7.3z6f).
As α child, Ι caught this fish urith simple joy and α bit of
bait, but Ι never rηrished to grab marsh bulrushes or use
stones
or sheep's knees. Triggerfish are very tasty and almost α]Ι head,
but the head has enough meat for α meal.

ºlarge head of α triggerfish

º 9αΙΙοη (5 liters) of vvater
Ι/Ζ cup (25Ο mi) vinegar
2 teaspoon sea salt
] οηßοη
2 carrots
2 stalks of celery
2 bay leaves
Ι bunch of parsiey
3Ο peppercorns

Place the head ßη cold "court bouillon" and bring ßτ το

boil and
cook rηre]].Then add the aboye spices and herbs and fresh-picked
capers. (If γου do not liye rηrhere the caper
ρΙαηt grorvs, γου can
use capers pickled ßη vinegar.) Crush them ßη α mortar or ψ
ßß
ι.
ι
i.
]&

§
,ß
blender, and finish the sauce rηrith the αddßτßοη of οßΙ, vinegar,
salt, and pepper.

Recipe 49

BAKED GILT-HEAD BREAM

"Οmßτ ηοτ τhε fat gilt-head from Ephesus, rnrhich people τhere
call ioniscus. Βυγ it, τhαt nursling of the holy Selinua. Wash ßτ
rnrith care, then bake and serve it τrhole even though it measure
τεη cubiτs" (Archesττaτus, quoted ßη Aτhenaeus 7.3z8a-b).

3 IbS. (1.5 κ9) bream

3 teaspoons fine salt
plenty of olive οßΙ
α generous sprinklin9 of vinegar

Even today Ephesus and its surroundings are famous for its
bream, called chippura by the Turks. Ιt is cooked for α half hour ατ
325Ο F (ι6ο' C) rubbed vrith οßΙ and salt, and served. Ιη αητßq-
υßt)ζ it vras served with α spτinkling of vinegar; today τre could
use lemon. Either ιnray is simple, and simply deiicious!

Sι,ι)
SALTED SΤURGEON
"Of Bosporus τhε \Λrhitest that sail forth; but 1ετ ηοτhßηg be
added thereto of the tough flesh of that fish τrhich grorvs ßη the
Maeotic lake [ΑΖον Sea] fish which may not be mentioned
-the
ßη verse" (Athenaeus 7.z84e).This mυsτ be due to the fact that
the r,ηrord for "sturgeon" did not fitArchestratus's τhyme scheme.
do not knornr holπ this dish τras prepared. Later οη,
\^/e
urhen Athenaeus discusses stulgeon, there is α critique of
Archestratus and his imprecision: "Archestratus, rnrho affected α
mode of life like that of Sardanapalus, speaking of τhε Rhodian
dogfish, expresses τhε belief τhατ ßτ is τhe same as τhατ urhich is
carried about at Roman banquets to the accompaniment of pipes
and rvreaths, the slaves rnrho bτing it being croπηred rnrith
πτeaths; it is, he thinks, the fish called accipesius |sturgeon]. But
the latter is smaller, longer of snout and moτe tτiangular than the
former, and the cheapest and smallest of them is sold fοτ not less
than α thousand drachmas" (Athenaeus 7.z94f-z95a).
Thus, according to this telling, Archestratus mixed υρ
Rhodian dogflsh τrith sturgeon and declared it to be τhε fish τhat
the Romans carried to the table, crovrned and serenaded with
flutes, by slaves ßη floral croπτιs. But it seems difficult to attrib-
ute this erlol to Archestratus, who lived ßη the fourth century
s.c,, \Λrhen the Romans neyer ate fish. The manner of seryice
described ßη Athenaeus's text appeaτed ßη the late second cen-
tury to the early third century,η.o., and more precisely to the
Severian epoch, and it rnras certainly not α ceremony ßη urhich
αη innocuous bottom feeder such as dogfish rnrould have
been served.
DoGFISH
"]η Rhodes there is the dog-fish, οι τhIesher shark. And even if
γου mυsτ dir for it, if they rvon't sell it το γου, ταΚε it by force.
The Syracusans call it fat dog. Once γου have got it, submit
patiently thereafter to whatever doom is decreed for γου"
(Athenaeus 7 .z86α).

This fish is the shark most often seen by those iπho live near τhe
Mediterranean coast. It is not dangerous, given that ßt feeds οη
mollusks and small fish. It is eaten fresh, soon after ßt is caughτ.
Other cookbooks relating to fish do not share Archestratus's
enτhusiasm. They say τhis flsh is inferior το τhe smooth dogfish
and they recommend palticularly spicy recipes ιο hide its taste-
less flavor.

ANGLERFISH
"Where-ever thou seest fishing-frog fanglerfish], buy ßτ . . . and
α

dress the belly-piece" (Athenaeus Z.286d).The text says "bellμ"

bυτ Ι τhßηΚ something there is something off about this quoτe.
Ιη Ιαòτ, τοdαγ, rve still enjoy the anglerfish, bυτ r.ηre eat the ταßΙ,
rηrhich, being τaτher ρυlργ, is cut into large slices. Due το ßτs sαΙτß-
ness, it tastes α lot 1ike spiny lobster. I don't believe the under-
beily is ever used ßη cooking.

SoLE
"Then buy α large plaice fsole]" (Athenaeus 7.υ88α). Νο guid-
ance here.
«ELoPS, (PoSSIBLY MASKED oR FLAG FιSH)
"As for the elops, eat that chiefly ßη glorious Syracuse, since it
is the best. For that fish...comes from there, its native place.
\Λ/heτefore rnrhen it is caught off the islands, or the Asian land
perchance, or off Crete, it comes to γου thin and tough and
r,ηrave-battered" (Athenaeus 7. 3ooe).

We do not knornr exactly vrhat this fish is. Greek dictionaτies

tIanslate the urord elope as "sturgeon." It is, hornrever, defini-
tively not sturgeon, as that flsh is hard to find ßη Syracuse, nor
urould it end υρ skinny and tossed back into the sea at Crete.
One can οηΙγ imagine that this fish may be Αορßα vulpinus, τhε
thτesher shark, vrhich often srnrims rηrith its fin οη the surface of
the and has α tail as long as the rest of its bodμ giving it
\Λ/ατετ
the name "flag fish" ßη Venice.

«LEBIA, (PoSSIBLY Α τΥΡΕ oF SEA BREAM)

It is not easy to deduce \Λ/hat type of fish this rπas. It rnras also
called epatos, rnrhich means "liyer." Dioc]es said that it rπras α rock-
fish. According to Aristotle, it rnras α soiitary carnivore τrith sharp
teeth. According το Speusippus, ßτ \Λ/αs α iype of porgy. Aristoτle's
definiτion coincides vrith Speusippus' idenτification, making it
probabie that it \Λ/αs α porgy. Archestratus recommended buying
it ßη De]os or Tenos.

«ιΡΡυRΙ, oR «HoRSE, (ΑτLΑΝτιò MACKEREL)

One is also ηοτ one hιιndred percent sure if this refers tο α type
of mackerel, which is even today called "horse mackerel": "the
horsetail fτom Carystus is the best, as ßη geneτal Carystus is α
region very rich ßη fish" (Aτhenaeus 7.3o4d).

GREY MULLEΤ
"Βυγ α mullet ßη seagirt Aegina, and
γου vrill have the company
of charming men" (Athenaeus 7.3o7d).
coD (oR ΗΑΚΕ)
"As for τhe cod, vrhich they call callaria, Anthedon nuττures ßτ το
α goodly size, but it has, after αΙΙ, α rather ιpongy mεατ, and is
ßη geneτal not pleasant, at least to me; yet othels praise it very
highly; for one man likes this, another ιhat (Athenaeus 7.3ι6α).
Archestratus did not give α recipe and it is easy to see rvhy; he
did ηοτ like hake, and neither do Ι.

ocτoPUS
"Polyps foctopus] are best ßη Thasos and ßη Caria; Corfu, too,
nourishes large ones, many ßη number" (Athenaeus 7.3I8f ).

There is ηο recipe given for octopus, but they are still served
today, ηοt οηlγ ßη Greece but ßη ltaly r.ιrhere fisherman catch
them near the shore and eat them rarηr after pounding them and
rinsing them ßη the sea, or, as alr-ιrays, boiled freshly caught,

SALPA
"As for τhε salpa, Ι shall forever iudge it to be α poor fish. Iτ
is most palatable urhen the grain is being harvested. Βυγ it ßη
ΜßτγΙεηε" (Athenaeus 7,3Ζιf).

This fish, called saupe ßη France, is not rηrorthy of α recipe.

 ,q_

Desserts
ßη Latln these r.ηrere caiied "the second tables." Indeed
ºταòhemαtα:

they rvere usually carried ßη οη thεßτ orηrn tables (Athenaeus

Ia.639b),These second tables rηrere similar tο rηrhat we call today
our "after-dinner" treats. Durlng the "second seating," salty food
as rπell as s\Λ/eet rηras served. The difference \Δ/αs that during the
"first seating" α full dinner ιηταs served, rηrhereas during the sec-
ond guests munched οη οηlγ tidbits, and drank.
There aτe various lists of what τηταs served for dessert. Phil-
ippides ßη his Miseτ lisτs: "flat-cakes, dessert (epidorpismaτa),
eggs, sesame seeds" (Kock 3.3o7;Athenaeus 14.64od). Diphilus
ßη Telesias notes "α s\Λ/eet, some myrtle-beIries, α cheese-cake,
almonds" (Kock Ζ.ò67; Athenaeus I4.64od).
Recipe 5ο

AMιLoI (MAHALLEBI)
These are οηΙγ mentioned by Athenaeus ( 14.644f ). Amilos means
"starch." Cato r,ηrrites ßη the end of his recipe for amiloi \Λ/hαt to
do ιητßth the starch: "When the starch is dry, put it ßη α ner.ιr ραη
and cook ßτ rnrith milk." He then makes it clear that one cooked
ßt until it became α cτeam dessert, although it is not clear
rηrhether it vras made to be salty οι slΛ/eet, probably leaving that
part υΡ tο the cook. Οη the other hand, for time immemorial,
starch has been used to make creams such as mahallebi ßη Turkey
or blanc mange ßη Europe.

2ι/Ζ (625 ml) cups milk

2 tablespoons cornstarch
3 tablespoons su9ar
1 teaspoon ναηßΙΙα (or 1 teaspoon rose\iater)

Dissolve the sτarch ßη α ΙßtτΙε cold milk. Meanrηrhile, ρυτ τhε τεsτ
of τhε milk ßη α ραη over α Ιοτητ flame, \I/hen the milk is hοτ, dis-
solve the sugar ßη it and add the starch mixture. Continue cook-
ing, stirring constantly, untll it becomes α pudding, about Ζ5
minutes, making sule not tο scald the bottom. Stir ßη the ναηßΙΙα
οι rose\Λrater. Usually it is put ßη α mold, and chilled for at least
3ο minutes before serving, although it can be Ρυt ßη α bornrl and
served \Λ/arm. Ιη ancient times, Tose\Λ/ater \Λιουld have been used
ßη place of ναηßllα, and honey instead of sugar, ßη vrhich case
use οηlγ Ζ tablespoons of sweetener, as honey is more delicate
than sugar.
Recipe 5ι

ΑΜΟRΒΙΤΕS
Whατ 1ßττΙε r,ηre knorηr about this dish (Athenaeus ι4.646f ) is τhατ
this is α Sicilian dessert. Given that the etymological root means
"shepherd" or "pastoral," ßt is likely that among the ingredienτs
there rηrere both fresh cheese and honey.

21/η cups (5ΟΟ g) ricotta cheese

3/ι cuq (º75 9) honey

Μßχ these two together. It is delicious as is, or it can be put ßη α

strudel, betrηreen cookies, οι even ßη α cone!
 Recipe òΖ

ΑΤΤΑΝΙΤΑΙ
Ατιαηßιαß is α fτied dough dessert mentioned
by Hipponex is this
verse: "rηrhen eating francoΙin
[α game birdj and rabbits, flavor
the fried teεanitas dough rηrith sesame seeds'' (PLG
a.z.a7a).ºhe
term for this dessert comes from the rηrord teganon, ''frying
ραη.''
This confirms that \Λ/e are dealing τητßth fτied
dough and that this
same dough once had sesame seeds added.
There is α similar
Greek recipe τοdαγ called lukumaιhes, rvhich
can be made by
adding grated iemon rind to the batter and using
cognac instead
of rηrine.

2Ι/ι cups (5ΟΟ g) ρΙαßη yogurt or curdled milk

2Ι/Ζ cups (25ο g) flour
4 tablespoons ιvhite vvine
pinch of salt

li9ht οßΙ for frying

1/Ζ cup (125 ml) honey
coId ιpater
sθsame seeds οη α plate (for rolling the dough
after
the honey has been drizzled over it)

Whisk together the curdled miik, ßητßηε, and sαΙτ.

\Λ/hen lvell
mixed, add τhε flour το make α pasτe τhατ is
sοfτ and elasτic. (If
the rηreather is humid, more flour may
be needed.) Let the dough
chil] for ττττο hours ßη τhε τefrigerator. Ρυτ
α iighτ οßΙ ßη α delp
ραη for frying, and rηrhen it begins to smoke, drop small .ροοrr-
fuls of dough-3-4 at α time-into the
οßΙ and fiy them υητßΙ
they srvell and are τητeΙΙ brorηrned. j'ιe them
out and drain them
οη papeI tolη.els. Heat the honeχ diluting
rvith α little coid rηrater
το make medium τhßòΚ syrup. Slather τhε
fτied dough wßτh
enough honey το soak ßη, and then roll the
honeyed ball ßη
sesame seeds.

Makes αbουι ιιητο dozen.

 Recipe 53

BAsYNιAS
Ιη τhε second volume of Semos's History of De]os (FHG
α,α93), he
staτes:"Οη the island of Hecate the people of
Delos offer to lris
τhε basyniai, as they are called.They consist ofdough
from rnrheat
flουτ boiled with honey, to urhich are added so-calied
coccora
fpτobably pomegranate seeds], α dried fig and three uralnuτs''
(Athenaeus 4.6a5b). Most likely this treat is τhe forerunner
of
Neapolitan struffoli, α ,.ely sweet and elegant dessert
of fried
dough, held τogether υτßτh α sugal fτosting, which has
ancient
rooτs ßη this ρατt of Magna Graecia. Ιt is therefore
possible to
Ieconstruct it urith οηΙγ mßηοτ changes. Theτe rnrere
ηο olanges
ßη classical times: this fτuit rvas introduced from China into
Europe at α later date. Lemons, οη the other hand,
urere found
ßη much of the classical world. Ιη one of Antiphanes'
comedies
(367 z.c,) he speaks of lemon seeds, α rarity τhατ
uras jυsτ being
gifτed το the Athenians from the Gτeat King,himselξ
but τhεγ
IΛ/ere not yet
ραπ of the food system. Athenaeus affirms that ßη
τhε second òεητυτγ ,q..o., although the lemon had
α delighτful
fragrance, the fruit uras inedible. It rηras used οηΙγ ßη
cupboards
aird dravvers to plotect rnrool from moths (Athenaeus
z.83a-f).
There r,ηras also α belief that boiling α rnrhole lemon
ßη Attic honey
until the lemon completely dissolved made syrup that both
Greeks and Romans believed to be α plotection
against every
poison, if taken medicinally ßη the morning.

3 cups (3ΟΟ g) fIour

8 eggs
2 egg yolks
2 tablespoons lard or olive οßΙ for frying
Ι pinch of salt
Ι cup (25ο ml) honey
. pomegranate seeds
4-5 dates, cut ßη pieces ]

α dozen !Λ/αΙηυts, chopped

Place the fΙουτ οη α rnrork surface and make α

τrell ßη the middle,
Ρυτ τhe eggs, egg
γοΙΚ, salt, and 1 tablespoon of lard
ßη the mid-
dle and mix τogether to foτm α dough. Roll it out
rather thick,

]ο6
about 'Λ inch, and cut into long rorvs, then cut the ror,ηrs into
pieces about one inch long. Fry the pieces ßη α deep frying
ραη ιιτßth hot οßΙ until uniformly brovrned. Heat the honey ßη α
double boiler, and, rηrhen hot, drop the fried dough ßη and coat
well. Then pite τhe dough balls οη top of each other, making α
cone. If αηγ honey remains, pour it over the top, to αßΙοι,ητ the
rnrhole mass to stick together. FßηαΙΙßι decorate rnrith pomegranate
seeds, dates, and nuts.Yield: about 3ο fried balls of dough.
Recipe 54

òΑτο,S ΕΝòΗΥτοΙ
Menander mentions these ßη False Heracles (Kock 3.I48;Allinson
458), and Athenaeus includes them ßη his section οη plakous
(ιa.6aac).The Loeb edition of Athenaeus erroneously translates
this dessert as α "molded" cake. The name ßη fact comes lrom α
Greek verb that means "turned back οη itself " or "trvisted." \Λ/ere
it not for Cato's recipe, the others yrould be considered valid.
The enchyti dough is "trvisted," but ηοτ ßη α mold; ßτ is made
by squeezing the dough tlrrough α tube to fall ßη spirals into
hot cooking lard. It \Λ/αs the oldest Κηοτητη dessert and α repre-
sentation of pastry chefs cooking it is found ßη the tomb of
Ramses Ιν ßη τhe Valley of τhε Kings, ßη Egypτ. Iτ seems τhατ τhßs
presentation mirrors that described by Cato and therefore rvas
eαιeη ßη αηιßeηι Creece.

This is Cato's recipe:

"Make 'enchytoi' the same \η/αγ γου make 'balloons,' but use α
òΙοτh τητßτh α hole ßη it to press the dough τhrough, ßη spirals, ßητο
boiling faτ, about the size οf tr,vo sticks. When ιhey are ready,
coyer them rvith honey and heat them at α moderate tempera-
ture, Serve them rηrith honey and α s\Λ/eet wlne" (De agτ. 8ο).

Ι4 οΖ. (5ΟΟ g) ricotta cheese

]º/Ζcups (15ο g) flour

plenty of olive οßΙ or lard for frying

Make τhε dough and place lt ßη α cookie press or ραsτιγ bag, and
let ßτ fall ßη spirals into the boiling (smoking) fat, making sure
tο keep τhε spiral rηrhole, It should be about Ζ inches (6 cm)
long. When it is brown, take it out and put it οη paper torveis
το dry.\Λ/hen αΙΙ τhε dough it cooked, ρυτ τhe pastries οη α ρlατε,
cover them rvith plenty of honey, and allorηr it soak ßη. Warm
them ßη α moderate oven (3οοΟ F or ιòοΟ C) for α fe\v minutes
just before serving them.
Recipe 55

PLAKoUS (SτRUDEL)
Athenaeus talks αt length about this dessert. He cites Demetrius
of Scepsis; ßη his trvelfth-century book of Trojan Battle Order, τhere
r,vas α city named "Thebes under Plakos" (Iliad 6.òg6-97).1τ
seems that the rηrord means "plate," urhich is to say that ιhe ρΙαΚ-
ous \\Ias squashed flat. Clearly Cato's plakous \^/as not flαt, but,
although layered; ßt rvas probably flat οη tοΡ. Iη Greece there
\\Iere αη endless number of plakous and Athenaeus discusses
rηrhich \Λ/ere most delicious. The best rnrere considered those from
Paros, so that Alexis ßη his Archilochus has one οΓ his characters
exclaim, "Ο γου fortunaιe old man, dlvelling ßη happy Paros,
rηrhich country out of α11 ßη the rvorld produces the tvro things
most fair, marble tο grace the Blessed, and |plakous] for mor-
ταls!" (Aτhenaeus ι4.644b-c). Sopaτer ßη his farce The Suiιoτs of
Bacchus (Kaibel ι9Ζ, ) extols the quality of Samos's plakous, lvriτing,
"Samos, vrhose name is fplakσus] maker" (Athenaeus 4,644c).

Cato's recipe:

¹ke tτητο pounds of lvheat flour to make ιhε outside layer, plus
four pounds of flour and trηro of spelt to make the layers. Sofτen
τhe spelt ßη waτer and when it ls swollen, put it ßη α clean knead-
ing trough after having dried it, then make the dough. When
it is lvell mixed, slor.ιrly add the fουι pounds of flour. Then, το11

out the dough and make layers, and put them ßη α basket το dry.
When τhey are drμ line them υρ and clean them with α cloth
soaked ßη oliye οß1, and then cook them. Next, τake the tτητο

pounds of flour; make bread dough, mixing r.ηrith vrater, to make

more layers ofdough.Take ι4 pounds offresh goat cheese, put
it ßη water and make it soft, changing the \Λ/ater at least thlee
times. Then, squeeze ßt, put ßt ßη α mortaτ and through α sieve,
and then mix lt rηrith four pounds of honey. Norv, take α clean

ραη 8 inches by 8 ßη [3ο cm by 3ο cm] and cover it lvith bay

leaves basτed ßη οß1. Οη top of this, place the large layer, exτend-
ing over the sides οf the ραη, and start to make the plakous. Put
dorηrn α layer of douglr, cover it rηrith the cream, then anothel

pastry layer and another of cream, continuing until γου linish αßΙ
 the dough and α11 the cream, ending rvith α layer of dough οη
top. Then make sure αlΙ the filling is inside and c]ose it αlΙ ßη rviτh
the overhanging outside layer. Cook the plakous οη α fire urith α

chimney [α big terracotta vase similal to our country sτoves]

around rvhich γου can place coals, and even cover the chimney
lηrith them. Cook long and slorvly and check evely so often to
see if it is done.When it is done, splead lots of honey over it."
(Cato De αgτ. 76).

2 cups (5ΟΟ g) flour

enough ιΛ/ater to make dough (see Recipe 2, Kapyria)
li9ht olive οßΙ
pinch of salt

5 layers of dough (made as directed or bought

ready-made)
ºr2 cups (3οο 9) ricotta
3/c cup (2ΟΟ g) honey
6-8 bay leaves

Note:You can save α lot of time by purchasing frozen puff pas-

try sheets, and indeed your results may be lather betteι For those
vrho rηrish to make their οιητη dough, first mix together rΛ/ater
and flour, and τhεη divide it into frve parts, roiling ουt the dough
very τhßη, αbουτ half as τhßòΚ as pie dough. Νεχτ, leτ ßτ dry, and
once dry brush rηrith οßΙ and put ßη the oven to dry again.
Μßχ the ricotta and honey. Cover the bottom of α baking
dish rηrith bay leaves greased rηrith olive οßΙ and place α large layer
of dough, covering the ραη and overlapping the sides, οη top
of τhe leaves. Then ταΚε one of τhe iayers of dough, òυτ το fiτ
the ραη, and place ßτ οη τορ of the overlapping layer. Whατ-
ever dough γου chose, cover it vrith α layer ofricotta and honey
and continue alternating α layer of dough and then α layer of
ricotta/honey until the filling and the pasay are αΙΙ used υρ.
Finaliy, ρυlΙ τhε edges ofthe bottom layer over the entire dessert,
οßΙ ßτ and bake ßτ ατ 3Ζ5Ο F (ι65Ο C) for Ζο-3ο minuτes, check-
ing for αη eyen brorηrnness. When it is golden brorηrn, take it out
of the oven and bath ßη abundantly ßη honey.
 Recipe 56

ΤΑGΕΝΙΤΕS
"FΙooding these fried αttanitai
ßη honey" f"aitanon" means frying
ραη ßη lonic dialect] (PLG α.Ζ.α7α),

Ιη fact, Athenaeus descτibes this desse't

as α "p,lakous" fried ßη οßΙ
and called "taynvia" (Athenaeus I4.646e).They
ατε mentioned by
Magnes and also by the lηrriter of the
second edition of Dionysus
(Kock ι.7): "Have γου ever rηratched to
see the hot pancakes
steaming vrhen γου pour honey οη
them?'' And Cratinus, ßη The
laws, says: "And the hot pancakes ßη
the morning thror,ιring ουt
vapour" (Kock I.5Ζ,), From these excerpts
ßη Athenaeus'S τeΧτ,
\Λ/e See that tagenites \Δ/e.e eaten
for breakfast. Tb have αη imme-
dßατε leavening effect, curdled milk
ηras added. Iη the days befoτe
pasteu'ization, and before mßικ came
ßη steriιe contaιners, it \Λ/αS
easy to come by curdled milk.Today,
this type of pancake is made
ßη America iπith cottage cheese or ricotta.

2 cups (5ΟΟ g) flour

1/ι cup (6ο ml) ιιvhite
ιßιιßηe
1/ι cup (6ο ml) curdled
milk (add α teaspoon of
lemon juice to regular milk)
Ι2 teaspoon salt

olive οßΙ to grease the ραη

honey for the ..dressing'' οη the cooked
pancakes
sesame seeds

Μßχ first four ingτedients until smooth, and cook ßη small

amounts, foτming α circle οη α greased
Ιτγßηg ραη, turning over
rηrhen mixture bubbles, to brorηrn
evenly οr] Ιotr, sides. Serve
hot, rηrith honey and α spτinkle of sesame
seeds οη top.
ΑΜΡΗΙΡΗΟΝ
Amphiphon means "lightaround" and rηre Κηοτητ that this vras
α11

α dessert served with candles as αη offering to Artemis. Philo-

chorus (FHG α.α93) tells us that the name of amphiphon arose
{τοm the fact τhat this dessert rηras carried to Artemis's temple οη
the seventeenth day of the month of Munichion (April) because
that is the day rηrhen the sky is tr-ιrice as bright as usual. This
ritual probably involved yarious types of desserts, but not one
of the recipes for them rvas given (Athenaeus ι4.64òα).

CHARISIOS
Aristophanes mentions charisios ßη his Men of Dinneπille (Kock
τ.44Ζ): "Fοτ us anro Ι uril] bake α grace-cake fcharisios] to eat
τητhεη evening comes" (Athenaeus ια,6α6b).

cHoRιA
Sr,ηreeτs made rηriτh miik and honey (Athenaeus ι4.646e). The
presence of honey makes it c]ear that this rηras α dessert.

DIAKONION
Α τγρε of τhßη bread, like focaccia: it is identified ηο bεττετ τhαη
that. Pherecraτes refers to ßt (Kock ι.ι94). Kock thinks ßτ mighτ
be α flat cake made by slaves or diakones, or α base foτ plakous thaτ
\Λ/αs not very good, So the author did not bother tο give αηγ

instructions for hοι,ητ to make ßt. This is based οη α quote from

Pherecrates: "he began tο eat the dßαΙòοηßοη though he already had
αη amphiphon" (Aτhenaeus ια.6ααf).

DESSERΤ OF ZEUS
This rnras α dessert made by roasting together grain called leuke
(probably rvhiτe barley), chickpeas, cardamom, and small thin
breads first soaked ßη milk and honey, and then served τητßth α
saffron sauce (Athenaeus 14.643.b).
 EcHιNoS
Lynceus of Samos speaks of this dessert ßη his Letter to Diagoτas
(Aτhenaeus τ4.647α), He states that this delicate pastry r.ιras made
ßη Rhodes and that his friend explained horηr it rηras made.
Unfortunatelμ the recipe r.ιras not given.

ELAPHoS
This rηras ßη the shape of α deer made for the festival
α dessert
of τhε Elaphebolia (Aτhenaeus ι4.646ε).Iτ rηras made from
sρεΙτ (today we rηrould substitute durum flour), honeχ and
sesame seeds.

EMPEPτAS
Seleucus (Athenaeus Ia.6a5d) defines this as α pie made r.ιrith
baked cheeses, more or less similar to the French "νοΙ αυ vent''
bυτ likely much harder and heavier, more like the breadbaskeτs
made into borvls today.

ENKRIDES
This is small, fτied dough covered ßη honey. So says Aeschylus.
Enkrides are also mentioned by Stesichorus (PlG
3.zo6;Athenaeus
l4.645e); by Epicharmus; ßη Hand,to-Mouth Toilers by Nicophon
(Kock ι.779);by Arisιophanes ßη Danaids (Kock ι.45Ζ); and by
Pherecrates ßη his Good-for,Nothings (Kock I. I68).

EPΙCHYTON
Nicophon mentioned epichyton ßη α list of dessert breads and
focaccias ßη his Hand-to-Mouth Toilers (Kock ι.778; Athenaeus
ι4.6a5b-c).Iτ appears το be fried dough, rηrhich Pamphilus says
ιvere also called attanitai. (See Recipe òΖ.)
EPIDAIτRoN
This pastry made from barley flour, served after dinner, as
τηταs α

explained by Philemon ßη his Οη AtticWords (Athenaeus 14.646b).

EPΙKYKLIOS
These rηrere Syracusan s\Λ/eets and from the name as translated it
is α type of doughnut. Epichaτmus cites them ßη his Earth and Sea

(Kaibel qò; Aτhenaeus ι4.ο4òε-f).

GLYKιNAS
Ιη Seleucus's Glossarμ this dessert is said ßο have been made ßη
Crete, fτοm grape sylup and olive οßß (Athenaeus ι4.645d).
Although flour rηras not mentioned, ßß must have been part of
the recipe.

GoURoS
Solon says thaι this is α lentil-based dessert, as referenced ßη
his lambicVerses (PLG Ζ.58; Diehl ι.38;Aτhenaeus ι4,64òf). Iτ is
uncleaτ rηrhether this recipe used flουτ and lenιils, or flour
made from lenιils, similaτ to bean-flour desserts currently made
ßη japan.

ΙτRΙοΝ
This rvas α soft cookie maderηrith sesame and honey as men-
tioned byAnacreon (PLG Ζ6ο; Athenaeus 4.6α6d); by Sophocles
ßη Eris (ΤτGF ι7α) and by Aristophanes ßη his The Acharnians
( ιο9Ζ, ).

KREιoN
This ιηταs α type of flat bread that α nevrlyvred gave to her hus-
band as α gift. It rηras cooked οη α brazier and covered ßη honey,
and it rnras also served to the friends of the ner.ιrlylveds. So states
Philitas ßη his lrregulari4/ords (Kuchenmýlter, frag. 37; Athenaeus
Ia.6a5d),
KRIBANAI
These seem to be different than the kribanites that are mentioned
ßη the chapter οη breads. Sosibius, ßη the third chapter of Οη
Acman, says thaι they ατε shaped like breasts and that the Spartans
served them at dinners for rηromen, rηrhen the young girls rπrere
preparing to sing α hymn of praise ßη honor of α bride
(Athenaeus ι4.646α).

ΚRΙΜΝΙΤΕS
This alludes to α dessert that r,ηras made rηrith unrefined barley
flour (called krimnon ßη Greek) (Athenaeus 4.646α).

ΚRοτΕτΑ
Probably this τηταs α crunchy dessert, at least accoτding to the
ΙtαΙßαη editor Rocci. The name supports τhis guess. The 1ßτεταΙ
translaτion of τhe phrase is: "kroteta, liberally soaked ßη τhßòΚ
sauce [honey] from the humming-uringed bee" (Athenaeus
I4.64ob).

MYLLoI
Heracleides of Syracuse recounts ßη Οη Institution that the last day
üf the feast of Thesmophoria ßη Syracuse, α dessert made of
sesame and honey rπras shaped like women's sexual organs; it
came ßο be known as mylloi ßη Sicily. This dessert rnras paraded
around ßη honor of the goddess (Athenaeus 4.647α).

NANoS
Thin bread made rnrith cheese and o1ive οß1. Given that the text
uses the vrhich means bread, it is evidently α flour-
r,ηrord artos,

based recipe; ßτ is probably the pτecursor of libum (Aτhenaeus

τ4.6α6ò).
ΝΑSτοS
\Λ/e οηlγ knornr that this was α dessert rηrith α delicious filling
(Athenaeus ι4,646ε).

NEELAτA
Demosthenes mentions this ßη his prayer to Ctesiphonus (De
Coι. Ζ6ο). Harpocrates says that they are made urith dough of
roughly crushed barley and honey, rηrhich is τhen cooked and
coyered ßη grapes and chickpeas (Athenaeus I4.645b). The
dOugh rn,as sιreιched τhßη.

PAISA
Smali desserts eaten αt Kos (Athenaeus 14.646f).

ΡSοτΗ ιΑ
This is α significantly crumbly dessert. Iη his Good-for-Nothings,
Pherecrates says, "But ßη Hades γου vrill τeceive α good-for-
noτhing and crumbs [psothio]" (Kock I.168;Aτhenaeus ι4.646c).
(Ιη the r,ηrork of Pherecrates, money ßη the kingdom of the dead
rηras called α "good for nothing," and rηras \Λ/οτth t\η/ο crumbs.)

SESAMΙDES
These spherical svreets rπere made rηrith toasted sesame seeds and
honey, ßη the Pergamon region, these desserts are still made
today (Athenaeus 14.646f ).

SESAMOΤUROPAGA
These srηreets \Λ/ere made i,ηrith sesame seeds and cheese fried
ßη olive οßΙ, covered vrith celery seeds (probably τοαsτεd)
(Athenaeus ι4.64c).It is believed the name of τhis dessert r,ηras

given by Philoxenus of Chythera, τητhο used complex yrords and

phrases made υρ of other rηrords, much like those ßη German, He
rηras τeased by Antiphanes ßη his Third-Raτe Actors (Kock 2,,ιο2),
\Λ/hο praises him as αη ßηνεηtοτ of many special r,ryords ßη α

jumbled language.

SΤΑΙΤΙΤΑΙ
These rnrere crepes made with spelt seed flour and honey
(Athenaeus ια.6α6b). Epicharmus mentions them ßη The Marιiage
of Hebe (Kaibel ιοο). Α very liquid dough \Λ/αs τhßηΙγ spread
οη τhε frying ραη and rηrhen cooked, sprinkled οη top rvith
honey, sesame seeds, and fresh cheese, according to latτocles'
instructions.

SτRΕΡτοΙ
The name leads us to believe that these rπrere doughnuts
(Athenaeus 4.6a5b). Demosthenes mentions them ßη his prayer
ßη honor of Cτesiphon ßη τhε ρΙαγ Οη the Crown (De Cor. Ζ6ο).

S\^/EEτS
Νοτ beττer identified. One of the Deipnosophists, υlρßαη, says
that he rηrould defrniιely eat "s\Λ/eets" that rnrere creamy οτ soft, ßη
vrhich case, he rπrould ask for α mystilen (α piece of bread dough
baked ßη the shape of α spoon to serve as αη edible utensil for
eating liquids or semi-liquids. There is αη example of α mystilen
ßη τhε Museum of Cairo). The οηΙγ thing vre know about this
dessert is that many pine nuts rnrere mixed into it, and the nuts
rηrere called by ππο different names, ostrokis and kokkaios.

τυRΑΚιΝΑS
Thin bread made rηrith cheese, similar to dough suggested
by Cato. These rnrere served vrith honeyed milk (Athenaeus
ι4.643c).
 Condiments, Flavorings,
αηα )eas0ntngs
Antiphanes lists spices and flavorings that every ancient Greek
cook should have οη hand: dried grapes (raisins), sαΙτ, silphium
(α garlic-like bulb), cheese, thyme, sesame seeds, soda, myrrh,
cumin, honeμ marjoram, dates, vinegar, olives, herbs for spicy
sauces, capers, egg, salted fish, rryatercτess, grape leaves, and
curdled milk,

CARA\^/AY SEEDS
This spice is easy to gro\Λ/ and if the seeds are dispersed, the
plant inrill seed itself, Wild carar.ιray has smai]er seeds than τhε
cultivated plant and also has α more pronounced flavor.

CORIAN DER (Coriandrum sativum)

Both the leaves and seeds of this plant are used, but one should
be ayraτe that each has α distinctive flavor. It is ηοt commonly
found ßη ΙταΙγ but it is very popular ßη Asia and the Ameτicas.
Fresh coτiander or cilantτo is sold ßη bunches, like paτsley, and
the leaves ΙοοΚ similaτ, bui paIsley and coτiander leaves have very
different flavors. It is vrell to beaτ ßη mind that α ceτtain pro-
portion of the population has αη almost allergic reaction to
cilanτro, sr.vearing that it tastes as bad as, οι \Λ/orse than, soap.
The name "coriander" comes from the Greek koris, ιητhßòh means
cimex, αη insect, presuming α similarity betureen the odor of the
bug and thατ of the green leaves of the plant. Coriander seeds,
milder and seem not to pτovoke the same reaction
hornzever, are
as the leaves.

cUMιN
Cumin is α wel]-knorπn spice to both ancient and modern
peoples (Ρlßηγ Nat. Hist. ιο.16ι, Ζο. ι6ι).
GARUM
Mentioned frequently ßη Athenaeus (see z.67c), it rηras one of
the ancient Greek seasonings that he most disdained. Αη equiv-
alent sauce is still used rnrith excellent results ßη the cooking of
various Asian countries. This product, called nuoc-nam, is sold ßη
many Eastern specialty food stores ßη Europe and the Americas.
If not available, γου can make this universal sauce yourself: dry
and sαΙτ fish, τhεη take the resulting liquid and add olive οßΙ,

LovAGE
This is called ligusticum ßη almost αΙΙ the recipes from De re
coquinaria. It can be found ßη gardening and plant stores, and
can be gιο\Λ/η ßη windor.ηr boxes or other garden containers. The
leaves have αη agreeable flavor that falls somerηrhere between
celery and parsley. One could, therefore, substitute for lovage
rηrith α mixture of parsley and celery ßη recipes.

MARJoRAM (Aτhenaeus Ζ.68α)

ΜΙΝτ (Mentha pulegium)

MYRRH (Aτhenaeus Ζ.66α)

*oxYMEL, (ibid.)
Evidently α combination of vinegar and honey

-oxYRHoDINoN" (ibid.)
Probably rose-flavored "oxymel" (vinegar and honey)

SAFFLo\^/ER
This is "false saffron." It is sold throughout the Middle East and
ßη Egypt and is often mistaken for saffron by naive tourists. Ιt
has reddish pistils, and rηrhen added to α dish, gives the color,
although not the flavor, of saffron. It lvas often used ßη antiq-
uity as α dyesτuff,

SιLPH ΙυΜ
Silphlum is the most famous spice found ßη antiquity, α vrild
ρßαητ from Syria τhατ grerv ßη τhe steppes of Africa and τhατ dis-
appeared around the time of Nero. Antiphanes, ßη his Unhappy
lovers (Kock 2.ι73), teases the Syrians rηrho seem to taik of noth
ing buτ cabbages and silphium: "I will not sail back to the place
from which \η/e \^Iere carried auray, for Ι τηταηt to say goodbye to
all-horses, silphium, chariots, silphium sιalks, steeple-chasers,
silphium ]eaves, fevers, and silphium juice" (Athenaeus 3.Ioof).
This makes the Syrians seem α bit fixatedl

τΗΥΜΕ (Thymus vulgaris)

VιNEGAR
We find lists of various kinds of vinegar i,viιh descriptions of
their benefits and defects. Greek rηrriters calied vinegar the "best
of τhε seasonings." The philosopher Chryslppus said τhατ τhε
best vinegars r,ηrere those from Egypt and Cnidus. Οη the oτher
hand, Aristophanes preferred vinegar from Sphettus and he also
mentioned one from Cleonae, but given that there is a "Cleonae"
ßη Argos, Athos, and Phocis, rηre do ηοt Κηοτητ to \η/hich region
he referred. The vinegar from Decelea r.ηras also mentioned,
but ηοt favorably. Ιη fact, the comedian Alexis (Kock Ζ.4οο;
Athenaeus z.67e) inrrote, "Afιer compelling me tο drain four
cups οf Decelean home-made vinegar [evidently meaning the
arηrful rηrine of this region], ηο\Λ/ γου drag me straight through
the market."
 Index
Aeschylus, Ι1, ΙΙ3 οη breads, 3, 36-41 Cleopaτra, 3 Ζ Euangelus, Ι4
Agatharchides of Cnidus, 26 The Deipnosopλisk, Ι-2, 35 cod, Ι0 Ι Eubulus, 69
Agrigentum,30 οη desserts, Ι02-Ι7 CondimeDts, 42-43, Eιιpolis, Ι0
Alexander the Great, 25-26 οη Hedupaιheia, 6 1ι8 20
Alexandria,39,60 61 οη lemons, 106 condτos,54 fennel, 46
Aexis, ΙΖ 18,Ζ1,27-Ζ8, οη meats, 60, 68-70 coriander, 1 1 8 figleaves,5l 52
70, 95, 109, ιΖ0 οη sauces, 4Ζ-43 coronets,7 flsh
amia, 73 οηseafood,7Ι Ι0Ι cost of food, 26-28 ßη Golden Age, 6
amiloi, Ι 03 οη seasonings, Ι Ι9-20 courtesans, 9 10 Homel οη, 4-5
ιmorbites, 1 0,Ι οη soups, 54-55 Cratinus, ΙΙΙ recipes for, Ζ3 ΙOΙ
Amphictyon, 29 οη wine, 29, 30 crepes, Ι Ι 7 ßη regional food, 20
ampλiphon, 1 Ι 2 Athens,21-23,39,40 Creτe,2ι, Ι00 flsh heads, 93, 96
Alacreon, Ι 14 ΑτταgßηυS, Ζ5 Cτοbγlιιs, 40 flsh sauce, 43, 66, 1 Ι9
mdra, 9 αttαηßtdß, 105, 1 13 cubo bread, 4Ι flag fish, Ι 00
mglerfish, 99 Cumin, 1 Ι 8 flavorings,1l8 20
Antidoτus, 40 Babyloιia, 2 CuttiefiSh,89-90 flowers, 7-8
Antiphanes, 3, 3 2, 68, baτley soup, 53, 54 focaccia, 37, 40
t06, ι ι6_18, ιΖ0 basyniai, Ι06-7 Daphnus οf Ephesus, 7Ι flied dough, 105-7, 1 13
Altony, Mark, 32 bay leaves, Ζ4 Delos, 106 Γried shrimp, 72
apanτhrakis,39 boiled meaιs, 60-6 ι, 68, 70 Demetrius οf Scepsis, 109
aplrrodisiacs, 49 boletus breads, 40 Demosýenes, 116, ΙΙ7 garlic, Ζ0
Apicius brain pudding, 66-67 desserτs, Ι02-Ι7 garum, 43, 64, 69, Ι 18
οη appetizers, 49 brazier bread, 40 Diagoras, 40 gΙΙιò, rf Ι /
De re coquinario, 35, 53, breads, 3, 6, 36 43 diakonion, Ι 1 2 Glaucus ofRhodes, 90
ι ι9 bream, 88, 97, Ι 00 Dicaearchus,23 gΙykinas, Ι 14
οι meats, 63,6+,70 brill,80 dice bread, 4Ι gοατS, 63
οη seafood, 86, 89, 9 Ι bulgur,5l,54 Dioc]es, 24, Ι 00 gobies, 74
οη Soups, 53, 56 Byzantium, 20 Diocles ofCarystus,39 Golden Age, 6 8
appetizers, 44 52 Dionysos,7,13,28,29 gonos, Ζ4
apples,25-26 Callias. Sεε Diocles Dioxippus, 69 θouros, 1 Ι4
Arcadia,20 Ca]limedon, 1Ζ, 70 Diphilus, 20, 59, Ι02 gIains, 5
Archestratus of Gela capers,96 dogfish, 82-83, 98-99 grape leaves, 5 Ι-5Ζ, 80
οη appetizels, 44, 46 Caranus, Ι4 ΙΖ dolmas,5l 5Ζ grasshoppers, 52
οη banquets, 6-7, 8 caraway seeds, 1 Ι8 doughnuτS, 1ι+,117 greens, 57, 58
οη breads, 36 cardoons, 5 8 gynaecea, 8-9
onseafood,6,71 7+, Carneius οf Megara, 1 3 ecλinos, Ι Ι 3
79_88,9ι,93,97_10ι Cato, 38, 45, 53, ι03, ee],7Z-78,83 Hadrian, 10
Archilochus, 33 ι08 ι0,1ιΖ Egypt, Ι08 hake,101
Arclrippus, 4Ζ Cebes of Cyzicus, Ι3 elapλos, 1 1 3 Harpocrates, Ι Ι 6
Aristophanes, 39, 45, 52, chamber pots, 10-Ι Ι elops, Ι00 Hellenism, 25-26
53, 55, 69, 1 ι2-14, ιΖ0 charisios, Ι 1 2 empeptos, Ι Ι 3 Heracleides, 4 1

Aristotle,100 cheese, 3, 69, 8+, 90, 94, εncλytoi, Ι08 Heracleides οf Syracuse, Ι Ι5
art, 8-9 104, 108_10 enkrides, 1 1 3 Heτodotus, 28 29
A]temis,91, ΙΙ2 chicken, 66-6Ζ Ι00
epatos, Hipparchus, 70
artolaganon, 3 7 China, 93 Ephesus,97 Hippolochus the
arugula, 49 chippura,9Z Eplcharmus, 94, Ι 13, Macedonian, Ι 7
Athenaeus choria, Ι Ι Ζ 11+, Ι17 Hlpponex, Ι05
οη appeιizels, 44-46, Chrysippus, ΖΖ-Ζ3, 56, 120 epichyιOn, Ι 1 3 Homer,_2-6,44
48,50,5Ζ cicadas,52 epidoitron, Ι Ι4 honey, 50, 103
οη banquets, 8, 10, Cleitarchus,25 epikyklios, Ι Ι4 hyacinth bulbs, 48 50, 56
ι ι_ι2, 14 Cleomenes, 28-29 Erasisτraτus,90

ι2ß
Iatrocles, ß 1 7 nanos, 1 1 5 psothia, Ι Ι 6 Stesichorus, Ι Ι 3
India, Ζ nastos, 1 Ι 6 Ptolemy, 26 StIattis οf Phoenicia, Ι3

ims, food at,77-Z8 nee]ata, Ι Ι 6 Streptikos,41

islkembe sλorbasi, 60 Nicander of Colophon, 54 Ramses 1Υ 108 stleptoi, 1 1 7
ßτιßOη, 1 Ι4 Nicophon, 1 1 3 rays, 76, 84 strudel, Ι09,10
Nicostratus,44 regional foods, 20-25 strufloli,106
Japan, 93, 1 14 Rhodes, 20,40, 98, 99. stuffed leaves, 5 1-52
Jerusalem artichokes, 5 8 octopus, 101 113 stu{fed squid, 95
olive οßΙ, 4 ricoττa cheese, 104, t08, sturgeon, 98, 100
kapyria, 3 8 olives, 45-46 1 09-1 0 suckling pig, 64-65
kitaros,80 onions, 3,44 Rocci, ß 15 sweets, Ι Ι 7
kottabos, 3 1-3 2 ormges, 106 rockfish, 100 swordfish, 85
κτεßοη, 1 Ι 4 organ mεατS, 69-70 Roman Empire, 35 symposium, 29-33
kribanai, 1 1 5 ουΖο, 2 1 Rome,57,69,98 Syracuse,99,100
krimnitεs, 1 15 oxygarum, 43 roses, Ζ, 66-67 Syria, ΙΖ0
kroι€ta, Ι Ι 5 oxymel, 1 19 IΟSewater, 103
oxyrhodlnon, 1 19 Roxane, 26 taθeiites, 1 1 1

Larensis, Ρ Livy, Ι Tarantum, Ζ5

lebia, 100 paisa, Ι Ι 6 safflower, 6Ζ,119-20 Thais, Ζ6
lemons, 79, Ι06 Pamphilus, 1 13 sαfΙτοη, 62, 1 19-20 Thebes, Ζ5
lentil soups, 13, 55, 56, 68 pm bread,41 salad dressing, 59 Theophrastus, 3 1

lentils, ßη desseτts, 1 14 pmcakes, 1Ι Ι salpa,101 thrion, 5 1-5 2

Ieuke, 1 1 2 parasltes, 1 1-12 salty foods,44, Ι02 thyme, Ι20
ligusticum, Ι Ι9, Parmeniscus the Cynlc, sardines, 74, Ζ5 ιßsαηα, 53, 54
lobsteτs,72 ι3 sauces, 42-43, 62, 82, 83 ιoasts,30-3Z
lovage, 1 19 parmesan cheese, 84, 94 scabbard fish, 94 tongue, 69
lukumathes,105 Paros, Ι09 scorpion fish, 86 tlocta,38
Lycurgus,23,24 pallot fiSh, 87 Scyιhims, 28-29 triggerflSh,96-97
Llmceus, 17 pasta, 38 sea memones, 74 Triphonus, 7
Lynceus of Samos, 2Ι-22, pecorino cheese, 84, 94 sea urchins, Ζ4, 47 tuna,73,79,93
40,113 pepper, 44 seafood,47, Ζ1 ΙOΙ turakinas, 1 1 Ζ

peτfumes, 7-8, 13 seasonings, 1 1 8-20 τυιbοτ, 80-8 1

mackerel, 100 Pherecrates, 68, 1 Ι2, 1 13, Seleucus,113,114 Turkey, 5Ι, 54, 60, 97, Ι03
Magnes, 111 ι16 Semos, 106 ιunips, 50
mahallebi, Ι03 Philemon, 114 sesamides, 1 16
mahi-mahi, 82-83 Philippides, Ι 0Ζ sεsamoιuropago, 1 1 6-1 7 Yarro, 1,49
male banqueιs, 9-1 1 Philiιas, 1 14 sharks, 99, 100 vegetables,5,53-59
Mardonius, 25 Philochorus, Ι Ι2 shrimp, 7Ζ vinegar, 79, 120
marjorm, Ι 19 Phi]onides, Ζ9 Sicily,46, Ι04 vomiting, 1, 1Ι
Martial, 49 phllosophers' bmquets, silphium, 70, Ι20 ßυΙνα eiectitia, 70
meat 1Ζ_13 skates,76
Homer οη, ,3-6 Philoxenus of Cythera, sole, 80, 99 wedding banquets, 14-1 7
τeclpes for, 60 70 18_ι9, ιι6_17 Solon, 22, Ι 14 wine, 3, Ζ8-33, 44
at weddings, Ι5 pig's feet, 68-69 Sopater,13,70, Ι09 women,8-10
Megasthenes, Ζ Pinenuts, ΙΙ7 Sophocles,1Ι, Ι14 weaths, 7
Menmder, Ζ0, Ζ6-Ζ7 , 108 pita bread, 39 Sosibius, 1 1 5
mßητ, 42, 62, 119 Ρ]ακα, 2 Ι Sosippus,59
Mithaecus, 94 pΙakous, Ι 09-Ι 0 soups, 24, 53 58
mol]usks, 7Ι ΡΙατο, 12 Sparta, 23-Ζ4, Ζ8-29 Zeno, 55, 56
mullet, 9 Ι-92, 100 Plutarch (dimer guest), 13 spelt, 5Ι Zeus, 29, 1 12
mustard, 50 Plutπch (hisτorim), 24, 30 Speusippus, 100
mylloi, 1 15 polenta, 54 spices, 1 1 8-Ζ0
myrrh, ΙΙ9 Ιporgy, Ι00 squid, 95
mystilen, 1 1 7 pork, 60-6 1, 64-70 stOßtßιαß, 1 1 7

ροτατοεs, 5 8 starch,103

,ι22