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Who Was EMPI?

EMPI was a venture of Joe Vittone in the mid 1950s for supplying aftermarket parts and accessories. What
prompted Mr. Vittone to form EMPI is a interesting story. Mr. Vittone operated a successful VW dealership in
Riverside, CA, about 60 miles east of Los Angeles. He discovered that there was a need to rebuild cylinder heads
for the 25hp and 36hp engines then in production. The VW factory stated that if repair was needed, a new
replacement head should be used.

So the guys there at Economotors came up with a tool to replace the valve guides in the cylinder heads. The tool
was an instant hit, allowing VW rebuilders and dealers to save a lot of money by rebuilding worn cylinder heads.
They created European Motor Prodcuts Incorporated, EMPI for short, to sell and distribute the new tool. They
soon branched out into the high performance and accessory market for VWs. They changed the name of the
company to reflect on the technical quality of their products to Engineered Motor Products Incorporated.

The high performance products included the legendary 1.4 ratio rocker assemblies, 88mm slipper piston/cylinder
sets, lightweight aluminum and magnesium road wheels, centrifugal advance ignition distributors, and
aftermarket carbs. They also campaigned the legendary Inch Pincher drag race car in the NHRA. EMPI was
growing to be a large company.

As any smart company, you have to adapt to the market and this is what EMPI did with the Imp and Sportster
series. They had seen the popularity of Bruce Meyer's Manx and decided to offer their own car in the buggy
market. Many people today feel the Imp was one of the best engineered fiberglass buggies ever offered.

The EMPI Sportster was a sheet metal buggy built on a modified VW Beetle floorpan. It was available in a two
passenger model or a four passenger model. All Sportsters featured a "Deluxe Folding Windshield" and were
constructed of 20-, 18-, and 12- guage steel.

The two passenger Sportster was the metal equivalent of the Imp. This model was available in many different
stages, from basic to almost complete.

 The Super Deluxe Kit(#SSD-100) was $1045 and included the SDK-110 kit plus roll bar, skid plate, "Dyno-Tuned" exhaust
system, and "Wide-Rim" wheels.
 The Deluxe Sportster Kit(#SKD-110) was $895 and included "all-steel, heliarc-welded, unitized frame and body, folding
windshield with safety glass, headlights with six-volt sealed beam units, complete illustrated step-by-step instructions for
installing engine, suspension, etc."
 The Standard Sportster Kit(#SSK-120) was $995. It was similar to the Deluxe kit described above, without the
"frame"(modified Beetle floorpan).
 The Sportster Chassis(#SCH-230) was $245 and a modified Beetle floorpan, all ready for a two-passenger Sportster body. It
was shortened and featured "box-section side members."
The two seat model featured a small pickup style cargo bed. It shared the 82.5" wheelbase with the Imp. Maybe
this model was seen a more durable, albeit heavier, dune buggy. It was probably better suited for dirt trail use,
whereas the Imp was probably a better choice for the sand dunes.

The four seat model was built upon an uncut floorpan.The four passenger Sportster was marketed with a more
utilitarian flair. Kind of the station wagen of the Sportster line. The family and commercial applications were the
primary markets it was ideally suited. Another benefit of the four passenger over the two passenger was that the
floor pan did not require shortening. The kit, SPK-130, retailed for $795.00 in the 1969 catalog.The kit included
the following: front end unit, rear unit, top bows, top rails, canvas top, and wiring loom. The kit was crated and all
metal pieces were dipped and primed, ready for the customer's paint.

According to EMPI, the tools required for assembly of a Sportster were "Regular mechanic's hand tools, plus
welding equipment, arc or acetylene, and spray painting outfit." A new customer also needed "..a standard VW,
with good engine, transmission, chassis, wheels, steering, seats . . . and a few other parts like gas tank,
speedometer, etc." EMPI claimed that the "assembled kit bolts on to standard Volkswagen frame SIMPLY ...
QUICKLY ... 2 men can do it easily in a day." My projects never to seem to be that quick.

In the tradition of great marketing, EMPI offered many accessories for the Sportster owner. A "Dyno-Tuned"
exhaust system was offered for both the 40hp(1200cc) and 1500cc engines. A "Sportster Tow Bar" attached to the
front axle and allowed you to take your Sportster where ever you needed. Of course most of the rest of the EMPI
accessories were available to customize and hot rod your Sportster. EMPI even suggested their Corvair engine
adaptor be used to get your Sportster around. That could have been really useful with a fully loaded four
passenger Sportster!

The Sportster was definitely an interesting buggy in the sea of fiberglass look-a-likes. All of the above
information, and the illustration, came from a 1969 EMPI catalog. If you have any additional information about
the Sportster or pictures of a Sportster, we'd be glad to hear from you.

Update!! The 1999 VW Classic my friend Kristine and I found a Sportster assembly pamphlet that
appears to have been produced for 1964. It's not a very detailed assembly reference, but it does show some
great pictures of the Sportster and has information about the modifications necessary to put together a
Sportster. It was definitely an interesting project.

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EMPI Sportster Assembly Pamphlet


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EMPI Imp Homepage Sportster Homepage
Fig.1. The No. 975 Sportster Kit includes complete all  4 shock absorbers
steel heliarc welded unitized frame and body, folding  Gear shift assembly
windshield with safety glass, headlights with six volt  Starter
seal beam units, roll bar a specially-designed EMPI  VW sedan harness (or EMPI Special Sportster
tuned extractor exhaust system for your VW engine, wiring harness)
and the two rear wide based wheels to fit 800x14 tires.  Fuse box No. 111-937-037
Also included is a heavy duty skid plate to protect the  Headlight switch, ignition switch, dimmer
engine and transmission from damage due to going over switch
rocky terrain, clutch cable clamps, horn bracket - fuse  Turn signal lights
box clamp and shortened shift rod. Components  Tail lights
required to complete the EMPI Sportster but not  Windshield wiper motor w/blades, linkage &
included in the No. 975 Kit are: switch
 Speedometer
 VW engine  2 VW Sedan seats (or EMPI Sportster seats)
 VW transmission assembly complete with brake  '61 or later VW sedan gas tank
drums  Rear torsion bar & spring plate
 3 15" VW sedan wheels  Battery cover
 3 560x15 tires  Horn
 2 800x14 tires  Standard VW sedan floor mats
 5 hub caps
 Front suspension assembly complete with brake If you are not already familiar with the asembly and
drums disassembly of VW sedan components such as engine
 Steering gear box and transmission removal and replacement, we suggest
 Steering column & column bracket that you purchase "All About The VW" by Elfrink or
 Steering shaft "VW Handbook No. 4" by Clymer. These books are
 Steering wheel available from EMPI. The average assembly time is
 Turn signal switch sixteen hours, assuming transmission, engine, and front
 Master brake cylinder axle are o.k. and all parts are available, clean, and ready
 Brake & Clutch pedal cluster to assemble. We suggest you take inventory to be sure
 Emergency brake lever & cables all parts are on hand.
 Brake fluid reservoir
 Clutch cable


Step 1. PAINTING - We suggest that the first
step after uncrating your Sportster Kit be a
COMPLETE PAINT JOB of your color choice.
The body of the has been carefully prepared for
painting, having been dipped in two solutions,
caustic for cleaning and a zinc phosphate solution
to protect the metal from rusting. This forms an
ideal base for the primer which your Sportster us
delivered with. By painting the Sportster as the
first step, much time normally taken up in Step 3. STEERING - This step is the
masking is eliminated. A better job can be done if INTSTALLATION OF THE COMPLETE
the headlights, front nose and hood are removed FRONT AXLE ASSEMBLY with steering gear
and sprayed separately, along with the wheels. box, steering wheel and front shocks. The front
axle assembly is bolted in position with the four
Step 2. WIRING - After the paint is thoroughly standard axle mount bolts as are used on the VW
dry, the next step is INSTALLING THE sedan. Make sure the steering gear box is in
WIRING HARNESS. As the Sportster is wired proper alignment with the steering column.
in the same manner as the VW sedan, the normal Mount the steering column, just under the top
sedan wiring diagram may be used. If you buy edge of the cowl, using the stock sedan steering
the EMPI No. 983 wiring loom for the Sportster column clamp and bolts.
you will find all wires plainly color coded and a
wiring diagram enclosed. (Refer to page 8) The
wiring harness by EMPI is made up for the latest
model turn signal switch with three wire outlets.
The main wiring loom is passed through the
tunnel to lessen the chance of damage to the
wiring from use over rough terrain. After you
have installed the wiring loom, connect the
headlights, dimmer switch, all instruments. Then
connect turn signal lights and tail lights. The
front fenders are drilled for VW sedan flasher
lights, Part No. 113-953-041A, of any year from Step 4. BRAKES - Install the BRAKE FLUID
1958 up. The rear fenders on the Sportster have RESERVOIR as shown in Step 4 picture, install
been drilled for 1962 or later tail lights, Part No. the master cylinder and connect the front brake
111-945-095G (left) and Part No. 111-945-096G lines. The brake fluid reservoir is a normal late
(right). In order to make the tail lights fit the model VW sedan component.
fender at the proper angle, it will be necessary to
trim the tail light housing on the long side with
tin snips. Any year model VW battery will fit the
battery box. Just use the VW battery cover to fit
the battery you choose. Place the ½" wood spacer
included in the kit under the battery.
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Step 6. INSTALL TRANSMISSION
ASSEMBLY, REAR SHOCK
ABSORBERS & WHEELS. Connect
clutch cable and shorten with loop and
clamp as shown in Step 6 picture. Be sure
the shifting rod is in alignment with the
shifting rod in the frame. Your Sportster Kit
is designed for a late model syncromesh
transmission. The older transmission may
be used by altering the front mount.

Then, after you have double checked your To SHORTEN HAND BRAKE CABLES,
wiring and your brake lines, replace the simply pull cables through base of brake
nose cone, the front hood and the spare tire handle until desired tension and/or slack
mount and spare wheel. Be sure to replace obtained. (Vise grips may be sed as a
the washers under the hood bolts to prevent temporary clamp for the adjustment
scratching the paint. process.) Mark cables with chalk and cut as
shown in diagram No. 6A. Make cut with a
torch to prevent cable from raveling,
allowing about ¾" of excess cable to braze
on new tip included in kit, being careful not
to get cable too hot. Use low temperature
rod.
Step 5 - Install WINDSHIELD WIPER
MOTOR LINKAGE on the windshield
assembly. This windshield has been drilled
and the bracket furnished is to accept the
latest 1964 VW sedan linkage, part 111-
955-305B, 111-955-325A, 111-955-215B,
111-955-216B.

Step 7. INSTALL THE ENGINE. For


necesary ground clearance, we recommend
that you remove the junction boxes and
heater asseemblies. The standard exhaust is
not usable because of the low position. The
EMPI sxhaust system included in the kit is
made to fit exactly the 1961 and later VW
engines and with a little bending, it may be
used on the earlier engines. The exhaust
system may be mounted either before or
after the engine is mounted to the
transmission.
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Step 8. INSTALL THE SKID PLATE using the bolts Step 10 - INSTALL GAS TANK, Part No. 111-201-
furnished. Be sure to fsten center bolt in the front of 055D ('61 VW up). The gas tank is held in place using
skid plate. the clips from a VW sedan and the special locking bolts
furnished. The gas tank is a close fit between the roll
Step 9 - INSTALL THE SEATS, Normal VW sedan bar support brackets in the Sportster rear section and in
seats or EMPI special seat may be used. If you are using some instances the corners of the tank must be notched
the normal sedan seats, it will be necessary to shorten to fit roll bar bracket to enable the gas tank to fit into
the seat frame for a lower seating position as the floor place. Connect the gas line to the gas tank, fill with gas,
in the Sportster is higher than the VW sedan. Cut seat check your engine oil, your transmission oil, bleed and
frame tubes and reweld in place as shown. Slide seats in adjust brakes, check front end alignment. Start it up and
place on tracks as in normal VW sedan. have fun!
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Wiring Diagram - EMPI Sportster - using No. 983 EMPI Wiring Loom - as applied to '61 and
later models.
Previous page Sportster Homepage
Webmaster: Tom Slider Hosted by: Tuna Can Web Productions

In order to provide current owners the information on their Imp was assembled (or how EMPI recommended it be
built), I've taken a lot of time to provide a web version of the 1970 assembly manual I found at a VW Jamboree in
1993 or so. I've tried to keep the pages true to the layout and style of the original, but I have made changes to
accomodate the web.

Right now I am posting the pages as I finish them. Once I finish all of the pages, I will provide a pull-down menu
to go directly to the page you want. Right now you'll have to use the table below to get started.

EMPI Imp Table Of Next


Homepage Contents Page

Chassis and method of construction covered by one or more of U.S. Patent Nos. 3,309,759 and 3,366,411.
Purchase of the EMPI IMP kit carries with it a grant of a nontransferable license under U.S. Patent Nos.
3,309,759 and 3,366,411 to make a noncommercial basis one EMPI IMP vehicle. EMPI reserves all rights to
manufacture commercially the EMPI IMP vehicle, and patent rights pending or applied for.
Notice: EMPI reserves the right to change prices and specifications without notice and with no obligations to up-to-date prior models,
parts and components.

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Before you start . . .

Thank you for choosing the EMPI Imp as your dune buggy. We feel your selection was the best one possible. The
Imp is not just a buggy and not really a buggy kit, but a complete, engineered fun system.

The folks at EMPI have spent a long time developing the Imp. We had to. After all, when you've been the leader
of VW high performance you can't afford to offer "just another buggy", it has to be the best. We feel we have the
best, and we're sure that when you're finished building yours, you will agree.

As for the construction of your Imp, EMPI engineers have placed very high priority on component designs giving
the builder the utmost consideration in an attempt to make his job much easier.

Read the instructions!

Please read and follow the instruction pages carefully. They are written in layman's terms and if used throughout
all construction phases, the builder will be rewarded with fewer problems and a better car.

The instructions are as complete as EMPI can make them at this time. It is impossible for us to cover every
possible problem that might arise when assembling a dune buggy. While most VWs appear to be the same, they
are different from year to year in many small ways. These small changes can sometimes alter the instructions
word for word but not the general direction of the instructions. If you should encountera situation you don't
follow completely, why not stop for a moment (don't panic) re-read the instructions, have someone else read
them, or read them together. If you are really hung up, go to some other step, then go back to the problem. There
has to be an answer.

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Wheelbase: 82.5" Wheels: Builder's choice
Track, Front: 51.6" Tires: Builder's choice
Stock VW worm & roller, overall
Track, Rear 53.3" Steering:
ratio 15:1
Weight: 1290 lbs. Turns: 2.6 lock to lock
Ground Clearance Turning
9" 32 feet
w/15" Tires: Circle:
Front Independent with trailing arms,
Seating Capacity: 4 persons
Suspension: torsion bars, tube shocks
Fiberglass, 2pcs. hood-dash pre- Rear Swingaxles with semi trailing arms,
Body:
bonded Suspension: torsion bars, and tube shocks.
VW platform frame. Shortened
Chassis:
12" to accept EMPI Imp body

EMPI has conducted many tests to determine the optimum amount to cut from the VW frame when making a dune
buggy and through our experience have settled on a 12" cut. This leaves the wheelbases at 82.5", an ideal ratio
between wheel base and tread width. Not only does this make for the best ride and superb handling but also has
extra benefits like adequate leg room for rear seat passengers and the frame is easier to cut and reweld instead of
14" or 14.5" as many others use. The transition in the frame when it is put back together is less severe at this
point and the tunnel match is much better. The EMPI Imp rear seat area has built-in recessed grooves to
reinforce the rear seating area and when used with the EMPI rear body support brackets, becomes fully load
bearing, a feature not found in any other dune buggy.

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Where To Find And How Much To Pay For The Wrecked VW


Wrecked and disabled VWs are somewhat like gold - they are hard to find. Some good places to look are
wrecking yards, in the back of body shops, used car lots, insurance company staging yards, or used car section of
your local newpaper.

The models of VW that are usuable as an Imp are as follows in order of preference:

1967-1969 Beetles are No. 1 on the list due to their larger displacement, 1500cc engines, and improved
suspension and transmission.

1966 model Beetle is next in preference because it has a 1300cc engine and the improved suspension and
transmission.

1961-1965 Beetles work equally well but do not have the larger displacement engines.

VWs that can't be used are Karmann Ghias and 1600 models as their floor pans are completely different from the
ones for a Beetle. Of course the Transporter series won't work at all. The front axle, motor, and transaxle
assembly from a Karmann Ghia can be used as they are basically the same as the Beetle. The motor from a
Transporter can be used as it will interchange with Beetle transaxle assembly.

The 1960 and older models can be used to build as an Imp as well as the later ones but in some cases, like gas
tank, windshield wiper motor and miscellaneous small parts, would have to be secured elsewhere as these are not
usable with the Imp body.

Prices for VWs vary from place to place as well as to the condition of the VW. The popularity of the sport of
dune buggying has driven the price up and up as the supply is dwindling. Wrecking yards are likely to be the
highest prcie as it is their business to know the value of the VW and you can be sure they do.

The trick to buying a wrecked VW is to get it before the wrecking yards do. A good way to do this is to contact
some local insurance company adjuster and ask if they have any VWs to bid on. These adjusters are out to get the
highest bid for their company and are generally very cooperative once you explain what you want to do.

How much to bid depends on the condition of the VW before it was wrecked and its present condition now that is
has become a wreck. For example, look at the mileage on the car - if it is 80,000 or 90,000 miles before it was
wrecked, it could not have as much value as one that had 30,000 or 40,000 miles on it. When bidding or buying
from a wrecking yard or insurance company, be sure to examine the car very carefully as to what kind of wreck it
was in - a head on or a rear ender, which often create the most severe damage. Head on collisions can often bend
the front axle beams and the trailing arms as well as twist the front frame that holds the front axle assembly. Rear
end collisions can often cause extreme damage to the engine and transaxle assembly as well as bending the axle
housings and axle. Simple rollovers are generally the best ones to buy as this seems to cause the least amount of
damage. If you have a friend that is a mechanic or body and frame man, ask him to take a look at it before you
bid. This expert advice could save you a lot of money. Wrecking yards and insurance companies sell on an "as-is"
basis and all purchases are final, so be sure to look it over very carefully before you bid.

As to what price to pay, it is very hard to say, but just remember that the engine, front axle and transaxle
assemblies are very valuable by themselves, so try to offer a fair price. 1960 and earlier model Beetles range from
$100.00 to $300.00. 1961 to 1965 models you can expect to pay from $200.00 to $500.00. 1966 models between
$400.00 and $600.00. 1967-1969 can be worth as much as $500.00 to $800.00. These prices are only intended as
a guide and can vary widely from area to area. You can sometimes make a good buy from a used car lot that is
going to wholesale as VW or from watching your local newspaper used car classified ad section. You can
sometimes make a good buy on a running car that has a bad body but still has a good engine, front axle, and
transaxle. If the body is good you could sell it outright to a body shop or wrecking yard and get some of your
investment back.

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Assembly of the Empi Imp


Building an EMPI Imp can be a very rewarding experience for anyone. The thrill of the first ride in an Imp you
have assembled yourself has to be that of a lifetime. To produce a machine of your own skill, one that will go,
turn and stop, and win the admiring glances of your friends, has to be an experience to be proud of. The Imp you
will be driving can be the end product of a labor of love or it can be a long drawn out chore - it just depends on
how you go about assembling your EMPI Imp.

In the instructions provided, you will note there are steps to follow that will insure an end product that you will be
proud to own and drive. In the design and manufacturing of the Imp, EMPI had you in mind, the "do-it-
yourselfer". Preplanning on our part will save you many hours of labor in assembling your Imp kit. Wide flared
fenders have been designed into the bodies to cover the extra wide tires that are so popular nowadays. Pre-
bonding of the dashboard to the hood has to insure the perfect fit at this crucial area. The design of the Imp
windshield frame incorporates a recess to attach a canvas or fiberglass top. The Imp body is some 4" longer on
the inside to allow extra foot room for the back seat passengers. A smooth, level rear seat area is an extra bonus
feature over the other dune buggies that are being offered. EMPI has a fill line of related accessories and
components to enhance your driving pleasure. You will no longer have to scout around for these hard to locate
items to complete your dune buggy. See page #34 through #40.

It would be wise to read and study the instruction and assembly manual before starting to build your EMPI Imp.
This extra time will result in many hours saved later on.

The Imp kit is one that requires only a minimum of hand tools on your part with the exception of modifying the
VW frame to accept the Imp body. The following is a guide to tools you will need to assemble your Imp:

1. ¼" electric drill


2. Assortment of metric hand wrenches 10mm through 17mm
3. Metric sockets, 13, 14, 15, 17, and 19mm and drive handles
4. Two good screw drivers, rat tail files
5. Crescent wrenches, American sockets and end wrenches
6. Hammer, medium size, ball peen
7. Instruction manual, part #IPI-361
8. Volkswagen Technical Manual, part #BVTV-180 VW/1200 series
9. Volkswagen Technical Manual, part #BVTV-181 VW/1300-1500 series

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Disassembling The VW Sedan


The following parts are needed to complete the Imp from a Volkswagen 1200, 1300, or 1500 sedan. We suggest
that a complete VW sedan Wreck (usually a rollover) be purchased; preferably a 1961 or later model, although an
earlier model can be used. Do not try to use a VW Kombi, truck, Karmann-Ghia, Porsche, or Variant, although
the engine, transaxle, wheels, and instruments could be used from some of these models. The Porsche
transmission mount would need considerable reworking as would the trailing arms of the Kombi truck.

The advantage of buying a completed wrecked sedan is that all of the parts are in one package, representing a
considerable savings since the small items such as switches, speedometer, hand brake, etc. are normally
overlooked by the seller. Also any undamaged sheet metal is saleable to body shops or other individuals.

The parts you must save are as follows:

1. Seats and helper springs for adjustment (these will need to be modified).
2. Battery, 6 or 12 volt.
3. 1961 or later gas tank, saving the 4 rectangular retaining washers.
4. Steering column, remove clamping bolt at bottom end of shaft. Save all of steering column assembly.
Remove 2 bolts and clamp at upper end of the column. When removing steering column clamp from the
body, save the rubber grommet at lower end, as this will be used later.
5. The wiring from a VW can be used with considerable rework if in good condition. Color coded wiring
diagrams are shown in the VW Owner's Service Manual, or we suggest you use EMPI Wiring Harness,
part number SWH-450 for ease of construction and reliability. Supplied in Kits IDB-400, -500 and -600.
Remove and save: Speedometer, drive cable, light switch, 1958 or later windshield wiper, windshield
wiper switch, gas guage and sender cable, horn, license plate light, late model 66 or later, not forgetting to
include all bolts, washers and nuts. Emergency flasher unit. Kit's IDB-300, -400, -500, and -600 have new
turn indicator and rear tail lights.
6. Brake reservior if in good condition. If not, replace with a new one. (Don't take chances here.)
7. Front floor mats if in good condition, to add a dressed-up look, we recommend EMPI custom fit carpets
number ICK-121. Supplied in Kits IDB-500, -600.
8. After all the above items have been removed and saved, the body is ready for removal from the chassis.
Bolts will be found under the back seat, rear fenders, running board and gas tanks. Save the rectangular
washers from under the running boards. These can be used again to attach the Imp body to the shortened
VW floor pan.
9. Remove the VW body and save the rubber mounting strip if in good condition, from the perimeter of the
chassis. If the rubber mounting strip has deteriorated, replace it with a new one. These are not expensive.

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Pre-preparing for shortening the 1200, 1300, 1500 VW Sedan Chassis


After the removal of the body, the running gear is still attached to the floor pan, i.e., front axle and wheels, final
drive, engine and rear wheels. These need not be removed, although although cutting the floor pan can be done
easier if they are and you will probably want to clean and paint all these parts before assembly.

Step 1. With a putty knife, remove allsound deadening maerial from the rear of the floor pan to just forward of the
emergency brake lever and under the front seats. (refer to Dwg. #1)

Step 2. Remove the main brakeline from the "T" fitting at rear. Bend open tabs along the left side of the floor
tunnel from the rear up to the vicinity of the emergency brake. Remove rubber grommet at the rear of the floor
pan where the main brake line goes through to the "T" fitting. Extract the brake line through the hole and gently
bend the main brake line forward, out of the way, toward the pedals.

Step 3. Remove the access cover at the forward end of the floor pan.

Step 4. Remove the access cover at the rear end of the floor pan.

Step 5. Remove the set screw from the front end of the coupling between the final drive and the gear lever linkage
(through rear access hole), leaving the coupling on the final drive.

Step 6. Remove the 2 bolts at the gear lever, when removing the gear lever, note position fo the shift guide plate
under the gear lever cover - the shift guide plate incorporates the reverse lock-out which is positioned on the right,
or passenger side, of the car and points up. Save these parts.

Step 7. Extract gear lever shift shaft tube through front access cover and save.

Step 8. Remove the emergency brake cables. Remove the snap ring at the pin on the emergency brake lever and
remove the lever.

Step 9. Remove the brake-clutch pedal assembly, throttle wire, and clutch cable and save.

Step 10. Remove the battery and save. (If in good condition.)

Step 11. Remove the heater control wire and replace the handle. It is not necessary to save the heater control wire
unless you intend to adapt a heating system to your Imp. The heater handle can be cut off. Flush with the floor
board for a better carpet fit if you don't intend to use the standard heater controls.
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Shortening the VW Floor Pan


Unless you have an acetylene welding and cutting experience, you would do well to purchase this frame from
EMPI, already modified to accept the Imp body, part number ICH-231, which retails for $245.00. On the other
hand, you might contact your welding shop or body shop, show them the plans and diagrams and get a bid from
them on how much they would charge to perform this operation. As a guide for this operation, figure on paying
between $75.00 and $100.00.

Shortening the VW frame is an operation that requires a high degree of skill to insure the proper rewelding and
alignment. Mistakes in this area can affect the directional stability of the completed Imp.

If you are going to do it yourself, you will need an acetylene welding and cutting torch, an electric grinder (which
can rent at a tool shop), miscellaneous "C" clamps, hammers, and screw drivers.

Step 12. By referring to Dwg #1 you can see the area of the floor pan that needs the sound proofing removed
(light dotted lines). Be sure to do a good job of removing this tar, as the tar and sound deadening paper burns very
easily.

Step 13. It is best to support the frame of some regular carpenter saw-horses or other sturdy platform when cutting
and welding the frame. In Dwg. #1 you can see by the heavily dotted line, the area that is to be removed. This is
the "B" section. The net amount to be removed is 12".

Step 14. The first heavily dotted line is ½" behind the seat runners. Using the rear of the four seat tracks as a
starting point, scribe a line ½" back of the seat track directly across the floor pan.

Step 15. Next, taking a 12" ruler (be sure the ends are square), use this ruler to lay out the second line across the
floor pan. This is the second heavy dotted line in Dwg. #1. Using the 12" ruler as a measure, place one end even
and at right angles to the first line scribe behind the seat racks. At the oppostie end of the ruler scribe a small
mark. Continue doing this from one side of the floor pan to the opposite side.

Step 16. Now, using the 12" ruler, scribe through the marks completing the second line. To mark over the tunnel
and to insure accuracy, a piece of this sheet metal at least 4" wide by 14" long can be bent around the tunnel to
scribe againist. Use this sheet metal strip as a template when marking the connection line over the tunnel. The two
heavily dotted lines in Dwg. #1 that are 12" apart indicate the section to be removed from your floor pan.

Step 17. In Dwg. #12 you will see that the first area to be removed is the tunnel section, Fig. #1-A. With the
acetylene cutting torch, make a vertical cut up and over the tunnel at both ends, then cut along the base of the
tunnel on both sides. Remove the tunnel section, Fig. #1-A and discard. You will now be able [continued on next
page]

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Shortening The VW Floor Pan
to mark the part of the frame that was inside the tunnel. Be careful not to cut the
tubes inside the tunnel at this point. When cutting across the frame, be sure to
remember that 12" is the net amount to be removed so if you are nervous or wiggle
the torch, please try to keep it on the inside of the line as you can always grind or
file up to the outside line.
Step 18. Cut the heater cable guide tubes fore and aft as they will no longer be used
unless the same heating system is to be incorporated in your completed Imp. This
involves considerable work but can be done.

Step 19. Just inside the rear access hole, the throttle, clutch and on early models, the
choke guide tubes, pass through the left, or driver's side, where they are spot welded
to the floor pan. Using the torch or chisel, chut through the weld, leaving the tubes
unfastened.

Step 20. With the control tubes exposed you will find the two tubes nearest the top
leading to the emergency brake. It will be necessary to cut these tubes flush with
each half of the frames. You will have to remove the two cut tubes and the retaining
bracket that is spot welded to the front half of the frame. See Dwg. 3A for details on
how to retain the tubes to the rear half of the frame. The importantthing for the
emergency brake control tubes is not having any slag or anything that will bind
these cables or fray them. Dwg. #3 shows this operation.

Step 21. Next, finish cutting the floor pan and remove the 12" section. Remove the
excess cutting slag before attempting to weld the VW floor pan back together. Be
sure to stay inside the section to be removed. When cutting, you can use an electric
disc grinder to grind up your scribed line as well as removing the worst bumps and
irregularities left from the cutting torch.

Step 22. The repositioning of the two halves can be accomplished with the aid of the
usual boxes, blocks, 2 saw horses and planks, or, if the wheels are still on the
chassis, a pair of stands or jacks supporting the rear half, and a hydraulic rolling
garage jack under the front half makes an easy job of it. After bringing the two
halves together, a few measurements can be taken to insure proper length, diagnol,
and wheel track measurements. See Dwg. #6. While moving the two halves
together, the previously loosened clutch, throttle, choke guide tubes and gas line
must be pulled through and out the rear of the floor pan. These will all [continued on
next page]

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Shortening The VW Floor Pan, cont.


be longer than necessary and must be shortened later to retain their stock position. The clutch guide tube is the
only critical one as it must be cut precisely to accommodate the flexible clutch cable guide tube that is positioned
just above the final drive cover.

Refer to Dwgs. #4, #5, #6, and #7 before starting Step 23.

Step 23. To weld the two sections together, you must start by a series of tack welds not more than 6" apart,
beginning with the lower corners of the tunnel, alternating tack welds from one side of the floor pan to the other
of 6" centers. Repeat process between previous tack welds, leaving 8" unwelded on the outside ends until the
strips are taken from the rear corners of the floor pan.

In Dwg. #4 you can see the operations necessary to correct this. It is necessary to cut a strip from each half to
bring the frame back in alignment. The one critical measurement is the 47½" that is the Std. VW width at the rear
of the frame. There may be, on some models, a small hole remaining to be filled by a piece trimmed from the 12"
section of the floor pan previously removed. Finish welding the floor pan by welding one small section at a time
and movig to another area to minimize warping. There will be a small amount of heating and pounding the metal
down to align for welding on the lower corners of the rear half of the tunnel on all models. The earlier models
need some of this treatment all around the rear half of the tunnel. After you complete the welding, don't forget to
turn the whole thing over and weld the bottom of the tunnel. If the running gear is still attached, it will stand on
the side of its wheels. Dwg. #8 shows frame welded back together, dotted lines indicate welded seams.

Step 24. After brazing the throttle, clutch, and choke (on earlier models) back into place just inside the rear access
hole, the flexible clutch cable guide tube must be installed. Hacksaw the clutch guide tube off approximately 1¾"
behind the floor plan, or about even with the face of the final drive mounting plate below it. The throttle and
choke guide tube between the guide tube on the floor pan and the boss cast on the final drive cover (earlier
models, a steel bracket). This flexible guide tube should be installed with enough preload to sag approximately 1".
If the cable guide tube is preloaded with too much on the vehicles with fully synchronized transmissions, it will
make the cable stiff in operation and can create noises or cause breakage of the cable. This condition can be
rectified by shortening the guide tube on the floor pan after removing the tube and cable. If the say is insufficient,
operation of the clutch will cause shuddering. This condition can be rectified by inserting washers between the
guide tube and the boss cast on the final drive cover.

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Shortening The VW Floor Pan


Step 25. The 12" of extra length you will now have on the clutch cable can be taken up in a loop. Clamp together
with the two wire rope clamps provided (in Kits IDB-300-400-500-600) just forward of the rear, or adjustable
end, of the cable between clutch throwout arm and the boss on the final drive cover. See Dwg. #9. The emergency
brake cables have to be shortened 12". Use the 12" ruller to measure back 12" from the threaded end of the
emergency brake cable. At this point, clamp a pair of vice grips and use an acetylene cutting torch to cut the brake
cable in two (do not use a hacksaw). You can now install the EMPI supplied threaded end (in Kits IDB-300-400-
500-600) on the brake cable. Make sure that they are all the way bottomed and brazed into place. These threads
are ¼" SAE, not metric. See Dwg. #10.

Step 26. After installation of the throttle wire, run it through the engine guide tubes. How to connect this cable is
covered in a later step.

Step 27. The main brake line is to be inserted back through the hole provided in the rear of the floor pan, reinstall
the rubber grommet, and bend back the remaining metal tab at the lower corner of the tunnel and floor around the
brake line. Be sure to make the line as snug as as possible without kinking, as it is now exposed inside the car.
The easiest route behind the floor pan is to turn toward the outside of the car along the torsion bar housing, up,
over and back toward the "T" fitting. Taping or clamping it down to the torsion bar housing will insure it against
rattles of possible damage from chafing through, resulting in the loss of brakes.

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Battery Installation
Step 28. Install a VW 6 or 12 volt battery in the recessed area provided in the rear seat compartment. Appropriate
size holes must be drilled through the side of the battery box for the lead and ground cables to exit. See Dwg. #11.
We suggest connecting the battery ground to the right rear shock upright with a metric bolt in the present tapped
area. The cover lid can be retained with four self-tapping sheet metal screws.

Gear Shift Lever Installation


Step 29. The gear shift lever shaft tube must be shortened by 12" also. Now, using the 12" ruler that was used in
the layout of the floor pan, mark the tube so that the straight portion of the rear will be removed. Next, the most
critical accurate line must be made. Lay the tube on a flat surface and scribe a line along the side of the tube,
parallel to its axis and, at he same height, a line that will serve to eliminateany change of rotation when the two
halves are rejoined. Now, remove a 12" section with a hacksaw. See Dwg. #12A. Before welding back together,
make certain the line along the side is perfectly aligned. Now weld. See Dwg. #12B. Be sure to grease freely at
the gear lever and bushing when installing and don't forget to safety-wire the set screws at the coupling. The two
bolts on top of the tunnel for the gear shift lever are port of the adjustment. By loosening and sliding the cover
plate forward or backward and tightening again, you will find that the top or bottom of the shift pattern can be
controlled. Kits IDB-400-500-600 have the EMPI EZ shift part #ASSX-431 supplied this is a excellent accessory
for any VW or dune buggy.

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Preparing the Chassis


1. Cleaning and painting of the VW chassis can best be done before the Imp body is installed.
2. Installing the front axle, transaxle and engine can also be done at this time.
3. The rubber mounting strip from the VW wreck or a new one can be fitted around the perimeter of the
frame. Here again it is necessary to remove a 12" section of this rubber. Rubber trim cement will hole this
in place.
4. Turn the shock bolts around (bolt head outboard) so that bolts may be removed to change shocks when
body is mounted.
5. Check the oil level in the steering gear box and transaxle. Correct any mechanical defects at this time.

Preparing the Imp Body


1. Sand the edges of the Imp body to remove any roughness with a medium grade paper.
2. Apply a coat of black paint or a color of your choice to the underside of the Imp body before installing to
the VW floor pan.

Assembling the Imp Body to the Chassis


1. MOUNTING THE IMP BODY TO THE VW CHASSIS. Use wedges between forward end of the seat
tracks and the body to force the body outward to the floor pan side rails. Use blocks and wedges between
the tunnel and forward end of the floor to force body outward. Remove access cover at rear of tunnel and
clamp with a board on top of the body just outside of the access hole. This will force the sides or the body
outward. NOTE: Do not push body beyond side rails see Dwg. #14.
2. With the Imp body in place, drill 5/16" holes above the original holes in VW floor pan and use the 1¼"
large headed bolts provided. The rectangular VW channel washers should be sued underneath. At the front
and rear corners of the floor pan, drill to fit comfortable from the top. Do not try to use the original holes
in the chassis if they are beyond the front and rear bulkheads of the body. Use longer bolts for this. See
Dwgs. #13 and #15.

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Assembling The Imp Body To the VW Chassis


3. REAR BODY SUPPOR BRACKETS. The rear body support brackets attach to the rear shock absorber
upper mounts. This is a universal type bracket and can be used with any VW floor pan with modifications.
Use a standard VW shock bolt (going from the outside in) to attach this bracket to the shock absorber
upper mounts. Level bracket and tighten VW shock bolt. The rear body support can now be bent to run
along side the rear of the Imp body. When the bracket has been aligned, drill holes from the bottom up and
attach with the bolts provided in the Body Support Bolt Kit. These brackets are right and left hand. See
Dwg. #16.
BEFORE PROCEEDING WITH STEP 4 IT IS IMPORTANT TO NOTE THAT STEP 4 AND 5 MUST
BE PERFORMED CONCURRENTLY.
4. FRONT BODY SUPPORT BRACKETS. Install the wo front zee-shaped brackets over the stud on top of
the axle beam see Dwg. #17 place the 5/16" hole up, facing forward. Use the metric bolts from the kit for
the lower mounts: 5/16" bolts are provided (gas tank mounting bolts) in the kit for the upper mounts. Place
gas tank in place. Place hod in place. Position gas tank filler as per instruction No. 5 and mark gas tank
position. Remove hood. Mark and drill 5/16" holes for gas tank bolt in the Imp body so the hole will align
with hole in front nose support bracket, using the rectangular washers (gas tank in place) and support
bracket (beneath fiberglass). Do not tighten until final positioning of the gas tank is done after the hood-
dash assembly is securely bolted in place. See Dwgs. #18 and #19.
5. GAS TANK INSTALLATION. Place gas tank, in the large rectangular opening provided in the front
section of the body. See Dwg. #20. Start gas tank mounting, use four 5/16" x 1" hex head bolts provided,
and place as indicated in Dwgs. #19 and #20 using the four rectangular washers from the VW body.

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Assembling The Imp Body To the VW Chassis, cont.


6. THE BRAKE RESERVOIR mounts on the right forward side of the forward body wall. A 3" diameter
stainless steel hose clamp bolted or pop riveted to the body wall makes a quick and easy mounting. Be
sure to leave enough clearance for the gas tank.

Quick Release Gas Cap Installation


Please refer to Dwg. #21 to locate the center line of the Imp hood for placing the gas cap in place. Mark the
centerline of the hood as shown in Dwg. #21. Now

Take a hack saw

A provision for retaining

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Quick Release Gas Cap Installation cont.


The upper and lower half of the gas cap can be connecte by a length of radiator hose of 2" I.D. and 2" hose clamp.
See Dwg. #24 for the details of this operation.

With the the hood in place and the upper and lower halves connected, you can attach the upper half of the gas cap
to the fiberglass hood by means of self-tapping metal screws. NOTE: On some installation, the lower half
mayhave to be shortened (not all VW gas tanks are the same height) to allow ½" clearance between the upper and
lower halves of the gas cap (See Dwg. #25).

Some dimpling of the gas tanke edges may be necessary for the hood to clear the gas tank.

Mounting the Dashboard Support Brace


To mount the dashboard support brace assembly it is best to lay the hood-dash assembly upside down on a
protective cover so as not to scratch the hood-dash surface. The support brace has been completely assembled
when shipped. The lower connecting bar has to be removed before being installed in the hoo-dash assembly. With
the bar removed, the support brace can be sprung together to allow it to enter the hood dash assembly. When the
support brace is in the hood-dash assembly, it will assume it's natural position. Dwg. #26 shows details on this
installation. With this operation completed you can proceed with installing the instruments in the hood-dash
assembly.

Instrumentation and Lighting


1. Drill a hole for the speedometer. If you don't have a hole saw the proper size, scribe a circle on the dash
the size of the recess on the speedometer bezel, allowing enough room for the two mounting ears on either
side, and drill a series of small holes inside the scribe line. With a suitable file, improve the diameter to the
scribe line. Mount the speedometer. Keep speedometer to left of panel in order to clear windshield wiper
motor.
2. Mount the ignition, light switch, and windshield wiper switch and gas guage, allowing ample room for
wiring. See photos for suggested dashboard layout using EMPI instruments.

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Instruemntation and Lighting cont.


3. Mount fuse block under the instruments, center of the dash on the bottom face.
4. Connect all wires possible in dash assembly, following color coded VW or EMPI Imp wiring diagram.
5. Mount windshield wiper motor assembly remembering to ground it to the dash frame.
6. Wiring harness refer to the wiring diagram suppliedfor these instructions. You will have to drill a hole at
the left of the steering column for the horn and the brake-light warnng switch. The dimmer switch mounts
on the forward body wall to the left of the clutch pedal and about 8" up and 3" over from the floor. See
Dwg. #34. The standard Volkswagen horn mounts to the forward upper side of the left shock mounting
support. A sheet metal screw (self-tapped) fastened to the shock support will serve as a ground.
7. Front Turn Indicator Lights ATIV-676 and Chrome Tail Light ACLV-530 are supplied with Kits IDB-
300-400-500-600. See Dwg. #27 for direction on how to install the front turn indicator lights ATIV-676.
1. Flip out lens and gasket.
2. Use template printed on instruction sheet for proper locations; tape to fender in location selected;
center punch hole locations with pointed tool to prevent drill from slipping, remove template. See
Dwg. #28.
3. Drill center hole 17/32" in diameter. If largest drill available is ½" in diameter it may be used. Drill
two 3/32" holes as indicated for mounting screws. to enlarge ½" hole to 17/32" diameter use round
file.
CAUTION: DO NOT EXCEED 17/32". MAKE SURE CENTER HOLE IS LARGE ENOUGH
TO ACCEPT SOCKET HOUSING WITHOUT FORCING.
4. To mount lights, place gasket supplied between marker light and fender. Remember that lens
retatining screw should be at the bottom. Mount all the lights the same way. NOTE: Bulbs
supplied are 12 volt.
8. The Rear Tail Lights are installed on the body in the special flattened area at the back of the body see
Dwg. #29 for direction on how to install these tail lights part #ACLV-530.
Sometimes the Imp body may be to thick for the tail light retainer studs to pass through the body. If so
counter bore body from the rear as shown in Dwg. #30.

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Mounting The Hood-Dash Assembly To The Imp


Put the hood-dash assembly on the Imp body. Makes sure it is centered and in place. It will be necessary to drill
¼" holes equally spaced, starting 2" back of the schock absorbers, Do this on both sides. Be careful to hold the
drill at the correct angle so as not to drill into the outer surface of the hood. Refer to Dwg. #31 for this sequence.
Self-tapping sheet metal screws can be used forward of the shock absorbers upright as this area is not accessible
when the hood is in place (again refer to Dwg. #31). It is best to drill one hole, then install the ¼" bolt and
washers. Then do the same on the other side. This will enable you to draw fender and hood together evenly. Do
not tighten these bolts completely until you have installed the fender welt. Some darts may have to be cut in the
fender welt to allow it to conform to the shape of the body. This welting should be trimmed neatly at the front and
carried on around the dash at the back and used as insulation for the lower legs of the dashboard support brace.
When hood-dash assembly has been completely installed and tightened, you can drill the 5/16" holes through the
lower legs of the dashboard support brace. Install bolts and nuts and tighten. See Dwgs. #32 and #33.

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Mounting The Steering Column


1. Drill a hole in the dash for the seeting column in the indicated circle. See Dwg. #35. Keep the hole high
for extra clearance under the steering wheel. Drill a small hole in the forward body wall (See Dwg. #34 to
locate this hole). Pass a straight rod through the center of the hole in the dash and through the small hole
in the forward body wall in the Imp. Align this pilot rod with the stub spline shaft of the steering box by
loosening the 17mm bolts on the steering box and rotating this unit. When aligned, tighten and lock nuts.
Correct any final misalignment between the stub spline shaft and the pilot rod by re-orienting the center of
the hole for the column in the forward wall by half the distance, and in the opposite direction, of the mis-
alignment between the pilot rod and the stub spline. The hole must be large enough to accept the rubber
grommt (1-7/8") saved from the VW. See Dwg. #36.
2. As the column passes through the dash, install the stainless steel hose clamp supplied with the dashboard
support brace and the 1-7/8" rubber grommet. This clamp is used to hold the steering column to the
dashboard support bracket. The column then passes through the forward body wall of the Imp, and you
can now connect the steering shaft to the flexible coupler on the steering gear box. Make sure the wheel is
straight ahead when attaching this shaft and the steering wheel spokes are aligned at this time. nstall
rubber grommet in the hole around column.
3. Install headlights (headlights SHL-230 are standard in Kits IDB-300-400-500-600) and connect wiring.
Wire remainder of connections under the dash and connecting sending cable from the gauge to the fuel
tank.
4. The turning indicator wiring can now be connected. (See Page 14 for installation of turn indicator lights).
5. The speedometer cable can now be installed. Thread driving end (small end first) through hole to be made
just below the dashboard frame. Drill suitable hole in forward body wall (near steering column), pass
cable through and connect in conventional manner to left front hub.

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Wild New Wheels


Regular or Super Wide, the best foundation for your buggy.

GT Alloy Wheels

 AMWX-653 EMPI-GT Alloy Wheel, tube-type, 5-3/8" rim, 5-lug, all drum brake VW & Ghia (Type I &
III only), specify sand cast or mag grey.
 AMWX-655 EMPI-GT Alloy Wheel, tubeless, 5-3/8" rim, 5-lug, all drum brake VW & Ghia (Type I &
IIIonly), specify sand cast or mag grey.

GT Spider Wheels

 AMWX-647 GT Spider Wheel, disc & drum brake VW, all 4 patterns, tubeless 14", Type I vehicles only,
not for Bus. Ghia, or Type III.
 AMWX-648 GT Spider Wheel, disc & drum brake VW, all 4 patterns, tube-type 14", Type I vehicles
only, not for Bus. Ghia, or Type III.
 AMWX-652 GT Spider Wheel, disc & drum brake VW, all 4 patterns, tube-type 15", Type I vehicles
only, not for Bus. Ghia, or Type III.
 AMWX-654 GT Spider Wheel, disc & drum brake VW, all 4 patterns, tubeless 15", Type I vehicles only,
not for Bus. Ghia, or Type III.

Super Wide Sprint Star Wheels


(5 Lug)

EMPI Equipment for buggies starts from the ground up. New to the EMPI Imp stable, these groovy wheels
deliver the goods; in looks, performance, and strength.

Super wide Sprint Stars feature one piece rims of heavy gauge steel without "banding" so common with wide
wheels. The rims are welded to new Sprint Star centers and come complete with chrome lug nuts and hub caps.
Designed with appearance in mind, Super Wide Sprint Stars use the same centers as EMPI Sprint Star road
wheels.

When used together, the problem of mismatched buggy wheels is ended forever.

 8 inch wide: SWW-461 Sprint Star Wheel, 8x15, 5-lug, mag grey finish.
 10 inch wide: SWW-462 Sprint Star Wheel, 10x15, 5-lug, mag grey finish.

Sprint Star Wheels ( 5 Lug )

 AOWX-666 Sprint Star Wheel, chrome 4½" rim, ½" offset, 5-lug, all drum brake VW & Ghia (type I &
II), and drum-brake Porsche, hub-cap and lug bolts included.
 AOWX-667 Sprint Star Wheel, mag grey finish, 4½" rim, ½" offset, 5-lug, all drum brake VW & Ghia
(type I & II), and drum-brake Porsche, hub-cap and lug bolts included.
 AOWX-668 Sprint Star Wheel, chrome 5½" rim, ½" offset, 5-lug, all drum brake VW & Ghia (type I &
II), and drum-brake Porsche, hub-cap and lug bolts included.
 AOWX-669 Sprint Star Wheel, mag grey finish, 5½" rim, ½" offset, 5-lug, all drum brake VW & Ghia
(type I & II), and drum-brake Porsche, hub-cap and lug bolts included.

Sprint Star Wheels ( 4 Lug )

 AOWX-688 Sprint Star Wheel, disc & drum brake VW, all 4-lug pattern, chrome, 5½" rim, type 1
vehicles only, not for bus, Ghia or type III.
 AOWX-689 Sprint Star Wheel, disc & drum brake VW, all 4-lug pattern, mag-grey, 5½" rim, type 1
vehicles only, not for bus, Ghia or type III.

VW, Imp or Sportster Wheel ( 14" )

SWW-40 Sportster Wide Rim Wheel, 7¼"x14".

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for a complete listing of EMPI's fabulous line of SHOW and GO GOODIES for BEETLES and
DUNE BUGGIES see the EMPI MOTORING GUIDE!

. . . available at your DEALER or from EMPI direct only $1.50.

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Engineered Motor Products, Inc.
Post Office 1120 - Riverside, California 92502

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