Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
EMPI was a venture of Joe Vittone in the mid 1950s for supplying aftermarket parts and accessories. What
prompted Mr. Vittone to form EMPI is a interesting story. Mr. Vittone operated a successful VW dealership in
Riverside, CA, about 60 miles east of Los Angeles. He discovered that there was a need to rebuild cylinder heads
for the 25hp and 36hp engines then in production. The VW factory stated that if repair was needed, a new
replacement head should be used.
So the guys there at Economotors came up with a tool to replace the valve guides in the cylinder heads. The tool
was an instant hit, allowing VW rebuilders and dealers to save a lot of money by rebuilding worn cylinder heads.
They created European Motor Prodcuts Incorporated, EMPI for short, to sell and distribute the new tool. They
soon branched out into the high performance and accessory market for VWs. They changed the name of the
company to reflect on the technical quality of their products to Engineered Motor Products Incorporated.
The high performance products included the legendary 1.4 ratio rocker assemblies, 88mm slipper piston/cylinder
sets, lightweight aluminum and magnesium road wheels, centrifugal advance ignition distributors, and
aftermarket carbs. They also campaigned the legendary Inch Pincher drag race car in the NHRA. EMPI was
growing to be a large company.
As any smart company, you have to adapt to the market and this is what EMPI did with the Imp and Sportster
series. They had seen the popularity of Bruce Meyer's Manx and decided to offer their own car in the buggy
market. Many people today feel the Imp was one of the best engineered fiberglass buggies ever offered.
The EMPI Sportster was a sheet metal buggy built on a modified VW Beetle floorpan. It was available in a two
passenger model or a four passenger model. All Sportsters featured a "Deluxe Folding Windshield" and were
constructed of 20-, 18-, and 12- guage steel.
The two passenger Sportster was the metal equivalent of the Imp. This model was available in many different
stages, from basic to almost complete.
The Super Deluxe Kit(#SSD-100) was $1045 and included the SDK-110 kit plus roll bar, skid plate, "Dyno-Tuned" exhaust
system, and "Wide-Rim" wheels.
The Deluxe Sportster Kit(#SKD-110) was $895 and included "all-steel, heliarc-welded, unitized frame and body, folding
windshield with safety glass, headlights with six-volt sealed beam units, complete illustrated step-by-step instructions for
installing engine, suspension, etc."
The Standard Sportster Kit(#SSK-120) was $995. It was similar to the Deluxe kit described above, without the
"frame"(modified Beetle floorpan).
The Sportster Chassis(#SCH-230) was $245 and a modified Beetle floorpan, all ready for a two-passenger Sportster body. It
was shortened and featured "box-section side members."
The two seat model featured a small pickup style cargo bed. It shared the 82.5" wheelbase with the Imp. Maybe
this model was seen a more durable, albeit heavier, dune buggy. It was probably better suited for dirt trail use,
whereas the Imp was probably a better choice for the sand dunes.
The four seat model was built upon an uncut floorpan.The four passenger Sportster was marketed with a more
utilitarian flair. Kind of the station wagen of the Sportster line. The family and commercial applications were the
primary markets it was ideally suited. Another benefit of the four passenger over the two passenger was that the
floor pan did not require shortening. The kit, SPK-130, retailed for $795.00 in the 1969 catalog.The kit included
the following: front end unit, rear unit, top bows, top rails, canvas top, and wiring loom. The kit was crated and all
metal pieces were dipped and primed, ready for the customer's paint.
According to EMPI, the tools required for assembly of a Sportster were "Regular mechanic's hand tools, plus
welding equipment, arc or acetylene, and spray painting outfit." A new customer also needed "..a standard VW,
with good engine, transmission, chassis, wheels, steering, seats . . . and a few other parts like gas tank,
speedometer, etc." EMPI claimed that the "assembled kit bolts on to standard Volkswagen frame SIMPLY ...
QUICKLY ... 2 men can do it easily in a day." My projects never to seem to be that quick.
In the tradition of great marketing, EMPI offered many accessories for the Sportster owner. A "Dyno-Tuned"
exhaust system was offered for both the 40hp(1200cc) and 1500cc engines. A "Sportster Tow Bar" attached to the
front axle and allowed you to take your Sportster where ever you needed. Of course most of the rest of the EMPI
accessories were available to customize and hot rod your Sportster. EMPI even suggested their Corvair engine
adaptor be used to get your Sportster around. That could have been really useful with a fully loaded four
passenger Sportster!
The Sportster was definitely an interesting buggy in the sea of fiberglass look-a-likes. All of the above
information, and the illustration, came from a 1969 EMPI catalog. If you have any additional information about
the Sportster or pictures of a Sportster, we'd be glad to hear from you.
Update!! The 1999 VW Classic my friend Kristine and I found a Sportster assembly pamphlet that
appears to have been produced for 1964. It's not a very detailed assembly reference, but it does show some
great pictures of the Sportster and has information about the modifications necessary to put together a
Sportster. It was definitely an interesting project.
Message Forums FAQ What is an Imp? Who was EMPI? Imp News EMPI Imp Homepage
Imp Replica Picture Gallery Assembly Manual Imp Links Technical Specs The Other EMPI Buggy
Step 1. PAINTING - We suggest that the first
step after uncrating your Sportster Kit be a
COMPLETE PAINT JOB of your color choice.
The body of the has been carefully prepared for
painting, having been dipped in two solutions,
caustic for cleaning and a zinc phosphate solution
to protect the metal from rusting. This forms an
ideal base for the primer which your Sportster us
delivered with. By painting the Sportster as the
first step, much time normally taken up in Step 3. STEERING - This step is the
masking is eliminated. A better job can be done if INTSTALLATION OF THE COMPLETE
the headlights, front nose and hood are removed FRONT AXLE ASSEMBLY with steering gear
and sprayed separately, along with the wheels. box, steering wheel and front shocks. The front
axle assembly is bolted in position with the four
Step 2. WIRING - After the paint is thoroughly standard axle mount bolts as are used on the VW
dry, the next step is INSTALLING THE sedan. Make sure the steering gear box is in
WIRING HARNESS. As the Sportster is wired proper alignment with the steering column.
in the same manner as the VW sedan, the normal Mount the steering column, just under the top
sedan wiring diagram may be used. If you buy edge of the cowl, using the stock sedan steering
the EMPI No. 983 wiring loom for the Sportster column clamp and bolts.
you will find all wires plainly color coded and a
wiring diagram enclosed. (Refer to page 8) The
wiring harness by EMPI is made up for the latest
model turn signal switch with three wire outlets.
The main wiring loom is passed through the
tunnel to lessen the chance of damage to the
wiring from use over rough terrain. After you
have installed the wiring loom, connect the
headlights, dimmer switch, all instruments. Then
connect turn signal lights and tail lights. The
front fenders are drilled for VW sedan flasher
lights, Part No. 113-953-041A, of any year from Step 4. BRAKES - Install the BRAKE FLUID
1958 up. The rear fenders on the Sportster have RESERVOIR as shown in Step 4 picture, install
been drilled for 1962 or later tail lights, Part No. the master cylinder and connect the front brake
111-945-095G (left) and Part No. 111-945-096G lines. The brake fluid reservoir is a normal late
(right). In order to make the tail lights fit the model VW sedan component.
fender at the proper angle, it will be necessary to
trim the tail light housing on the long side with
tin snips. Any year model VW battery will fit the
battery box. Just use the VW battery cover to fit
the battery you choose. Place the ½" wood spacer
included in the kit under the battery.
Previous page Sportster Homepage Next page
Previous page Sportster Homepage Next page
Step 6. INSTALL TRANSMISSION
ASSEMBLY, REAR SHOCK
ABSORBERS & WHEELS. Connect
clutch cable and shorten with loop and
clamp as shown in Step 6 picture. Be sure
the shifting rod is in alignment with the
shifting rod in the frame. Your Sportster Kit
is designed for a late model syncromesh
transmission. The older transmission may
be used by altering the front mount.
Then, after you have double checked your To SHORTEN HAND BRAKE CABLES,
wiring and your brake lines, replace the simply pull cables through base of brake
nose cone, the front hood and the spare tire handle until desired tension and/or slack
mount and spare wheel. Be sure to replace obtained. (Vise grips may be sed as a
the washers under the hood bolts to prevent temporary clamp for the adjustment
scratching the paint. process.) Mark cables with chalk and cut as
shown in diagram No. 6A. Make cut with a
torch to prevent cable from raveling,
allowing about ¾" of excess cable to braze
on new tip included in kit, being careful not
to get cable too hot. Use low temperature
rod.
Step 5 - Install WINDSHIELD WIPER
MOTOR LINKAGE on the windshield
assembly. This windshield has been drilled
and the bracket furnished is to accept the
latest 1964 VW sedan linkage, part 111-
955-305B, 111-955-325A, 111-955-215B,
111-955-216B.
Step 8. INSTALL THE SKID PLATE using the bolts Step 10 - INSTALL GAS TANK, Part No. 111-201-
furnished. Be sure to fsten center bolt in the front of 055D ('61 VW up). The gas tank is held in place using
skid plate. the clips from a VW sedan and the special locking bolts
furnished. The gas tank is a close fit between the roll
Step 9 - INSTALL THE SEATS, Normal VW sedan bar support brackets in the Sportster rear section and in
seats or EMPI special seat may be used. If you are using some instances the corners of the tank must be notched
the normal sedan seats, it will be necessary to shorten to fit roll bar bracket to enable the gas tank to fit into
the seat frame for a lower seating position as the floor place. Connect the gas line to the gas tank, fill with gas,
in the Sportster is higher than the VW sedan. Cut seat check your engine oil, your transmission oil, bleed and
frame tubes and reweld in place as shown. Slide seats in adjust brakes, check front end alignment. Start it up and
place on tracks as in normal VW sedan. have fun!
Previous page Sportster Homepage Next page
Wiring Diagram - EMPI Sportster - using No. 983 EMPI Wiring Loom - as applied to '61 and
later models.
Previous page Sportster Homepage
Webmaster: Tom Slider Hosted by: Tuna Can Web Productions
In order to provide current owners the information on their Imp was assembled (or how EMPI recommended it be
built), I've taken a lot of time to provide a web version of the 1970 assembly manual I found at a VW Jamboree in
1993 or so. I've tried to keep the pages true to the layout and style of the original, but I have made changes to
accomodate the web.
Right now I am posting the pages as I finish them. Once I finish all of the pages, I will provide a pull-down menu
to go directly to the page you want. Right now you'll have to use the table below to get started.
Chassis and method of construction covered by one or more of U.S. Patent Nos. 3,309,759 and 3,366,411.
Purchase of the EMPI IMP kit carries with it a grant of a nontransferable license under U.S. Patent Nos.
3,309,759 and 3,366,411 to make a noncommercial basis one EMPI IMP vehicle. EMPI reserves all rights to
manufacture commercially the EMPI IMP vehicle, and patent rights pending or applied for.
Notice: EMPI reserves the right to change prices and specifications without notice and with no obligations to up-to-date prior models,
parts and components.
Thank you for choosing the EMPI Imp as your dune buggy. We feel your selection was the best one possible. The
Imp is not just a buggy and not really a buggy kit, but a complete, engineered fun system.
The folks at EMPI have spent a long time developing the Imp. We had to. After all, when you've been the leader
of VW high performance you can't afford to offer "just another buggy", it has to be the best. We feel we have the
best, and we're sure that when you're finished building yours, you will agree.
As for the construction of your Imp, EMPI engineers have placed very high priority on component designs giving
the builder the utmost consideration in an attempt to make his job much easier.
Please read and follow the instruction pages carefully. They are written in layman's terms and if used throughout
all construction phases, the builder will be rewarded with fewer problems and a better car.
The instructions are as complete as EMPI can make them at this time. It is impossible for us to cover every
possible problem that might arise when assembling a dune buggy. While most VWs appear to be the same, they
are different from year to year in many small ways. These small changes can sometimes alter the instructions
word for word but not the general direction of the instructions. If you should encountera situation you don't
follow completely, why not stop for a moment (don't panic) re-read the instructions, have someone else read
them, or read them together. If you are really hung up, go to some other step, then go back to the problem. There
has to be an answer.
EMPI has conducted many tests to determine the optimum amount to cut from the VW frame when making a dune
buggy and through our experience have settled on a 12" cut. This leaves the wheelbases at 82.5", an ideal ratio
between wheel base and tread width. Not only does this make for the best ride and superb handling but also has
extra benefits like adequate leg room for rear seat passengers and the frame is easier to cut and reweld instead of
14" or 14.5" as many others use. The transition in the frame when it is put back together is less severe at this
point and the tunnel match is much better. The EMPI Imp rear seat area has built-in recessed grooves to
reinforce the rear seating area and when used with the EMPI rear body support brackets, becomes fully load
bearing, a feature not found in any other dune buggy.
The models of VW that are usuable as an Imp are as follows in order of preference:
1967-1969 Beetles are No. 1 on the list due to their larger displacement, 1500cc engines, and improved
suspension and transmission.
1966 model Beetle is next in preference because it has a 1300cc engine and the improved suspension and
transmission.
1961-1965 Beetles work equally well but do not have the larger displacement engines.
VWs that can't be used are Karmann Ghias and 1600 models as their floor pans are completely different from the
ones for a Beetle. Of course the Transporter series won't work at all. The front axle, motor, and transaxle
assembly from a Karmann Ghia can be used as they are basically the same as the Beetle. The motor from a
Transporter can be used as it will interchange with Beetle transaxle assembly.
The 1960 and older models can be used to build as an Imp as well as the later ones but in some cases, like gas
tank, windshield wiper motor and miscellaneous small parts, would have to be secured elsewhere as these are not
usable with the Imp body.
Prices for VWs vary from place to place as well as to the condition of the VW. The popularity of the sport of
dune buggying has driven the price up and up as the supply is dwindling. Wrecking yards are likely to be the
highest prcie as it is their business to know the value of the VW and you can be sure they do.
The trick to buying a wrecked VW is to get it before the wrecking yards do. A good way to do this is to contact
some local insurance company adjuster and ask if they have any VWs to bid on. These adjusters are out to get the
highest bid for their company and are generally very cooperative once you explain what you want to do.
How much to bid depends on the condition of the VW before it was wrecked and its present condition now that is
has become a wreck. For example, look at the mileage on the car - if it is 80,000 or 90,000 miles before it was
wrecked, it could not have as much value as one that had 30,000 or 40,000 miles on it. When bidding or buying
from a wrecking yard or insurance company, be sure to examine the car very carefully as to what kind of wreck it
was in - a head on or a rear ender, which often create the most severe damage. Head on collisions can often bend
the front axle beams and the trailing arms as well as twist the front frame that holds the front axle assembly. Rear
end collisions can often cause extreme damage to the engine and transaxle assembly as well as bending the axle
housings and axle. Simple rollovers are generally the best ones to buy as this seems to cause the least amount of
damage. If you have a friend that is a mechanic or body and frame man, ask him to take a look at it before you
bid. This expert advice could save you a lot of money. Wrecking yards and insurance companies sell on an "as-is"
basis and all purchases are final, so be sure to look it over very carefully before you bid.
As to what price to pay, it is very hard to say, but just remember that the engine, front axle and transaxle
assemblies are very valuable by themselves, so try to offer a fair price. 1960 and earlier model Beetles range from
$100.00 to $300.00. 1961 to 1965 models you can expect to pay from $200.00 to $500.00. 1966 models between
$400.00 and $600.00. 1967-1969 can be worth as much as $500.00 to $800.00. These prices are only intended as
a guide and can vary widely from area to area. You can sometimes make a good buy from a used car lot that is
going to wholesale as VW or from watching your local newspaper used car classified ad section. You can
sometimes make a good buy on a running car that has a bad body but still has a good engine, front axle, and
transaxle. If the body is good you could sell it outright to a body shop or wrecking yard and get some of your
investment back.
In the instructions provided, you will note there are steps to follow that will insure an end product that you will be
proud to own and drive. In the design and manufacturing of the Imp, EMPI had you in mind, the "do-it-
yourselfer". Preplanning on our part will save you many hours of labor in assembling your Imp kit. Wide flared
fenders have been designed into the bodies to cover the extra wide tires that are so popular nowadays. Pre-
bonding of the dashboard to the hood has to insure the perfect fit at this crucial area. The design of the Imp
windshield frame incorporates a recess to attach a canvas or fiberglass top. The Imp body is some 4" longer on
the inside to allow extra foot room for the back seat passengers. A smooth, level rear seat area is an extra bonus
feature over the other dune buggies that are being offered. EMPI has a fill line of related accessories and
components to enhance your driving pleasure. You will no longer have to scout around for these hard to locate
items to complete your dune buggy. See page #34 through #40.
It would be wise to read and study the instruction and assembly manual before starting to build your EMPI Imp.
This extra time will result in many hours saved later on.
The Imp kit is one that requires only a minimum of hand tools on your part with the exception of modifying the
VW frame to accept the Imp body. The following is a guide to tools you will need to assemble your Imp:
The advantage of buying a completed wrecked sedan is that all of the parts are in one package, representing a
considerable savings since the small items such as switches, speedometer, hand brake, etc. are normally
overlooked by the seller. Also any undamaged sheet metal is saleable to body shops or other individuals.
1. Seats and helper springs for adjustment (these will need to be modified).
2. Battery, 6 or 12 volt.
3. 1961 or later gas tank, saving the 4 rectangular retaining washers.
4. Steering column, remove clamping bolt at bottom end of shaft. Save all of steering column assembly.
Remove 2 bolts and clamp at upper end of the column. When removing steering column clamp from the
body, save the rubber grommet at lower end, as this will be used later.
5. The wiring from a VW can be used with considerable rework if in good condition. Color coded wiring
diagrams are shown in the VW Owner's Service Manual, or we suggest you use EMPI Wiring Harness,
part number SWH-450 for ease of construction and reliability. Supplied in Kits IDB-400, -500 and -600.
Remove and save: Speedometer, drive cable, light switch, 1958 or later windshield wiper, windshield
wiper switch, gas guage and sender cable, horn, license plate light, late model 66 or later, not forgetting to
include all bolts, washers and nuts. Emergency flasher unit. Kit's IDB-300, -400, -500, and -600 have new
turn indicator and rear tail lights.
6. Brake reservior if in good condition. If not, replace with a new one. (Don't take chances here.)
7. Front floor mats if in good condition, to add a dressed-up look, we recommend EMPI custom fit carpets
number ICK-121. Supplied in Kits IDB-500, -600.
8. After all the above items have been removed and saved, the body is ready for removal from the chassis.
Bolts will be found under the back seat, rear fenders, running board and gas tanks. Save the rectangular
washers from under the running boards. These can be used again to attach the Imp body to the shortened
VW floor pan.
9. Remove the VW body and save the rubber mounting strip if in good condition, from the perimeter of the
chassis. If the rubber mounting strip has deteriorated, replace it with a new one. These are not expensive.
Step 1. With a putty knife, remove allsound deadening maerial from the rear of the floor pan to just forward of the
emergency brake lever and under the front seats. (refer to Dwg. #1)
Step 2. Remove the main brakeline from the "T" fitting at rear. Bend open tabs along the left side of the floor
tunnel from the rear up to the vicinity of the emergency brake. Remove rubber grommet at the rear of the floor
pan where the main brake line goes through to the "T" fitting. Extract the brake line through the hole and gently
bend the main brake line forward, out of the way, toward the pedals.
Step 3. Remove the access cover at the forward end of the floor pan.
Step 4. Remove the access cover at the rear end of the floor pan.
Step 5. Remove the set screw from the front end of the coupling between the final drive and the gear lever linkage
(through rear access hole), leaving the coupling on the final drive.
Step 6. Remove the 2 bolts at the gear lever, when removing the gear lever, note position fo the shift guide plate
under the gear lever cover - the shift guide plate incorporates the reverse lock-out which is positioned on the right,
or passenger side, of the car and points up. Save these parts.
Step 7. Extract gear lever shift shaft tube through front access cover and save.
Step 8. Remove the emergency brake cables. Remove the snap ring at the pin on the emergency brake lever and
remove the lever.
Step 9. Remove the brake-clutch pedal assembly, throttle wire, and clutch cable and save.
Step 10. Remove the battery and save. (If in good condition.)
Step 11. Remove the heater control wire and replace the handle. It is not necessary to save the heater control wire
unless you intend to adapt a heating system to your Imp. The heater handle can be cut off. Flush with the floor
board for a better carpet fit if you don't intend to use the standard heater controls.
Previous Table Of Next
Page Contents Page
Shortening the VW frame is an operation that requires a high degree of skill to insure the proper rewelding and
alignment. Mistakes in this area can affect the directional stability of the completed Imp.
If you are going to do it yourself, you will need an acetylene welding and cutting torch, an electric grinder (which
can rent at a tool shop), miscellaneous "C" clamps, hammers, and screw drivers.
Step 12. By referring to Dwg #1 you can see the area of the floor pan that needs the sound proofing removed
(light dotted lines). Be sure to do a good job of removing this tar, as the tar and sound deadening paper burns very
easily.
Step 13. It is best to support the frame of some regular carpenter saw-horses or other sturdy platform when cutting
and welding the frame. In Dwg. #1 you can see by the heavily dotted line, the area that is to be removed. This is
the "B" section. The net amount to be removed is 12".
Step 14. The first heavily dotted line is ½" behind the seat runners. Using the rear of the four seat tracks as a
starting point, scribe a line ½" back of the seat track directly across the floor pan.
Step 15. Next, taking a 12" ruler (be sure the ends are square), use this ruler to lay out the second line across the
floor pan. This is the second heavy dotted line in Dwg. #1. Using the 12" ruler as a measure, place one end even
and at right angles to the first line scribe behind the seat racks. At the oppostie end of the ruler scribe a small
mark. Continue doing this from one side of the floor pan to the opposite side.
Step 16. Now, using the 12" ruler, scribe through the marks completing the second line. To mark over the tunnel
and to insure accuracy, a piece of this sheet metal at least 4" wide by 14" long can be bent around the tunnel to
scribe againist. Use this sheet metal strip as a template when marking the connection line over the tunnel. The two
heavily dotted lines in Dwg. #1 that are 12" apart indicate the section to be removed from your floor pan.
Step 17. In Dwg. #12 you will see that the first area to be removed is the tunnel section, Fig. #1-A. With the
acetylene cutting torch, make a vertical cut up and over the tunnel at both ends, then cut along the base of the
tunnel on both sides. Remove the tunnel section, Fig. #1-A and discard. You will now be able [continued on next
page]
Step 19. Just inside the rear access hole, the throttle, clutch and on early models, the
choke guide tubes, pass through the left, or driver's side, where they are spot welded
to the floor pan. Using the torch or chisel, chut through the weld, leaving the tubes
unfastened.
Step 20. With the control tubes exposed you will find the two tubes nearest the top
leading to the emergency brake. It will be necessary to cut these tubes flush with
each half of the frames. You will have to remove the two cut tubes and the retaining
bracket that is spot welded to the front half of the frame. See Dwg. 3A for details on
how to retain the tubes to the rear half of the frame. The importantthing for the
emergency brake control tubes is not having any slag or anything that will bind
these cables or fray them. Dwg. #3 shows this operation.
Step 21. Next, finish cutting the floor pan and remove the 12" section. Remove the
excess cutting slag before attempting to weld the VW floor pan back together. Be
sure to stay inside the section to be removed. When cutting, you can use an electric
disc grinder to grind up your scribed line as well as removing the worst bumps and
irregularities left from the cutting torch.
Step 22. The repositioning of the two halves can be accomplished with the aid of the
usual boxes, blocks, 2 saw horses and planks, or, if the wheels are still on the
chassis, a pair of stands or jacks supporting the rear half, and a hydraulic rolling
garage jack under the front half makes an easy job of it. After bringing the two
halves together, a few measurements can be taken to insure proper length, diagnol,
and wheel track measurements. See Dwg. #6. While moving the two halves
together, the previously loosened clutch, throttle, choke guide tubes and gas line
must be pulled through and out the rear of the floor pan. These will all [continued on
next page]
Refer to Dwgs. #4, #5, #6, and #7 before starting Step 23.
Step 23. To weld the two sections together, you must start by a series of tack welds not more than 6" apart,
beginning with the lower corners of the tunnel, alternating tack welds from one side of the floor pan to the other
of 6" centers. Repeat process between previous tack welds, leaving 8" unwelded on the outside ends until the
strips are taken from the rear corners of the floor pan.
In Dwg. #4 you can see the operations necessary to correct this. It is necessary to cut a strip from each half to
bring the frame back in alignment. The one critical measurement is the 47½" that is the Std. VW width at the rear
of the frame. There may be, on some models, a small hole remaining to be filled by a piece trimmed from the 12"
section of the floor pan previously removed. Finish welding the floor pan by welding one small section at a time
and movig to another area to minimize warping. There will be a small amount of heating and pounding the metal
down to align for welding on the lower corners of the rear half of the tunnel on all models. The earlier models
need some of this treatment all around the rear half of the tunnel. After you complete the welding, don't forget to
turn the whole thing over and weld the bottom of the tunnel. If the running gear is still attached, it will stand on
the side of its wheels. Dwg. #8 shows frame welded back together, dotted lines indicate welded seams.
Step 24. After brazing the throttle, clutch, and choke (on earlier models) back into place just inside the rear access
hole, the flexible clutch cable guide tube must be installed. Hacksaw the clutch guide tube off approximately 1¾"
behind the floor plan, or about even with the face of the final drive mounting plate below it. The throttle and
choke guide tube between the guide tube on the floor pan and the boss cast on the final drive cover (earlier
models, a steel bracket). This flexible guide tube should be installed with enough preload to sag approximately 1".
If the cable guide tube is preloaded with too much on the vehicles with fully synchronized transmissions, it will
make the cable stiff in operation and can create noises or cause breakage of the cable. This condition can be
rectified by shortening the guide tube on the floor pan after removing the tube and cable. If the say is insufficient,
operation of the clutch will cause shuddering. This condition can be rectified by inserting washers between the
guide tube and the boss cast on the final drive cover.
Step 26. After installation of the throttle wire, run it through the engine guide tubes. How to connect this cable is
covered in a later step.
Step 27. The main brake line is to be inserted back through the hole provided in the rear of the floor pan, reinstall
the rubber grommet, and bend back the remaining metal tab at the lower corner of the tunnel and floor around the
brake line. Be sure to make the line as snug as as possible without kinking, as it is now exposed inside the car.
The easiest route behind the floor pan is to turn toward the outside of the car along the torsion bar housing, up,
over and back toward the "T" fitting. Taping or clamping it down to the torsion bar housing will insure it against
rattles of possible damage from chafing through, resulting in the loss of brakes.
Battery Installation
Step 28. Install a VW 6 or 12 volt battery in the recessed area provided in the rear seat compartment. Appropriate
size holes must be drilled through the side of the battery box for the lead and ground cables to exit. See Dwg. #11.
We suggest connecting the battery ground to the right rear shock upright with a metric bolt in the present tapped
area. The cover lid can be retained with four self-tapping sheet metal screws.
With the the hood in place and the upper and lower halves connected, you can attach the upper half of the gas cap
to the fiberglass hood by means of self-tapping metal screws. NOTE: On some installation, the lower half
mayhave to be shortened (not all VW gas tanks are the same height) to allow ½" clearance between the upper and
lower halves of the gas cap (See Dwg. #25).
Some dimpling of the gas tanke edges may be necessary for the hood to clear the gas tank.
GT Alloy Wheels
AMWX-653 EMPI-GT Alloy Wheel, tube-type, 5-3/8" rim, 5-lug, all drum brake VW & Ghia (Type I &
III only), specify sand cast or mag grey.
AMWX-655 EMPI-GT Alloy Wheel, tubeless, 5-3/8" rim, 5-lug, all drum brake VW & Ghia (Type I &
IIIonly), specify sand cast or mag grey.
GT Spider Wheels
AMWX-647 GT Spider Wheel, disc & drum brake VW, all 4 patterns, tubeless 14", Type I vehicles only,
not for Bus. Ghia, or Type III.
AMWX-648 GT Spider Wheel, disc & drum brake VW, all 4 patterns, tube-type 14", Type I vehicles
only, not for Bus. Ghia, or Type III.
AMWX-652 GT Spider Wheel, disc & drum brake VW, all 4 patterns, tube-type 15", Type I vehicles
only, not for Bus. Ghia, or Type III.
AMWX-654 GT Spider Wheel, disc & drum brake VW, all 4 patterns, tubeless 15", Type I vehicles only,
not for Bus. Ghia, or Type III.
EMPI Equipment for buggies starts from the ground up. New to the EMPI Imp stable, these groovy wheels
deliver the goods; in looks, performance, and strength.
Super wide Sprint Stars feature one piece rims of heavy gauge steel without "banding" so common with wide
wheels. The rims are welded to new Sprint Star centers and come complete with chrome lug nuts and hub caps.
Designed with appearance in mind, Super Wide Sprint Stars use the same centers as EMPI Sprint Star road
wheels.
When used together, the problem of mismatched buggy wheels is ended forever.
8 inch wide: SWW-461 Sprint Star Wheel, 8x15, 5-lug, mag grey finish.
10 inch wide: SWW-462 Sprint Star Wheel, 10x15, 5-lug, mag grey finish.
AOWX-666 Sprint Star Wheel, chrome 4½" rim, ½" offset, 5-lug, all drum brake VW & Ghia (type I &
II), and drum-brake Porsche, hub-cap and lug bolts included.
AOWX-667 Sprint Star Wheel, mag grey finish, 4½" rim, ½" offset, 5-lug, all drum brake VW & Ghia
(type I & II), and drum-brake Porsche, hub-cap and lug bolts included.
AOWX-668 Sprint Star Wheel, chrome 5½" rim, ½" offset, 5-lug, all drum brake VW & Ghia (type I &
II), and drum-brake Porsche, hub-cap and lug bolts included.
AOWX-669 Sprint Star Wheel, mag grey finish, 5½" rim, ½" offset, 5-lug, all drum brake VW & Ghia
(type I & II), and drum-brake Porsche, hub-cap and lug bolts included.
AOWX-688 Sprint Star Wheel, disc & drum brake VW, all 4-lug pattern, chrome, 5½" rim, type 1
vehicles only, not for bus, Ghia or type III.
AOWX-689 Sprint Star Wheel, disc & drum brake VW, all 4-lug pattern, mag-grey, 5½" rim, type 1
vehicles only, not for bus, Ghia or type III.
for a complete listing of EMPI's fabulous line of SHOW and GO GOODIES for BEETLES and
DUNE BUGGIES see the EMPI MOTORING GUIDE!
Previous Table Of
Next
Page Contents
Engineered Motor Products, Inc.
Post Office 1120 - Riverside, California 92502