Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
Abstract
Cosmetics are chemical substances which serve the purpose of enhancing personal beauty,
caring and rejuvenating human skin and its appendages. They are deliberately applied external
reagents which find their pathway into the human body through the process of contact,
ingestion and inhalation. In some cases, cosmetics are applied as a necessary socio religious
custom. It is essential therefore to have an insight into the most commonly used cosmetics
from its manufacture to application. This review serves to summarize and interpret the data
available regarding common cosmetic products and their safety and efficacy.
Corresponding Author:
Kakoli Banerjee
Department of Chemistry
Prabhu Jagatbandhu College
Andul-Mouri, Howrah- 711 302,
West Bengal, INDIA
E-mail: kakolika@gmail.com
Phone: +91-9830040709
Anti-aging creams
With aging process, the complex cellular pathways become less accurate and the vibrant and
elastic collagen cells responsible for youth are less produced. This leads to wrinkled skin
structure. Melanin also gets unevenly deposited leading to age spots or liver spots technically
known as chloasma or melisma [13], Main function of anti-aging cream is to improve the
functioning and texture of the skin by encouraging collagen growth and preventing generation of
free radicals.The alpha hydroxyl acids (AHA) reduce calcium ion concentration in the epidermis
by process of chelation. The presence of calcium leads to cell adhesion and desquamation is
stopped. On removal of calcium ions, desquamation is facilitated and cell from within results in
younger looking skin [14].Retinoids which are natural and synthetic derivatives of vitamin A
inhibit enzymes from breaking down collagens.
Moisturizers
Moisturizers keep the skin soft and supple. Humectants are frequently used in cosmetics as a way
of increasing and maintaining moisture in the skin and hair. As hygroscopic moisturizers,
humectants work by attracting water to the upper layer of the skin –the stratum corneum
[15]. These are polyhydric alcohols having common hydroxyl groups which allow them to
participate in hydrogen bonding and attract water [Fig 5]. The capacity of holding moisture
depends on the particular humectants in use [16].
Fig. 5 Humectants containing polyhydric groups responsible for water attraction via
hydrogen bonding
Sun screens
UV light generates free radicals and reactive oxygen that result in tissue damage and subsequent
inflammatory responses [17]. Sunscreens provide broad spectrum coverage that includes both
UVA and UVB blocking agents to photo aging. Free radicals are highly reactive species as they
are missing an electron. These electron deficient species then tend to capture electrons from
neighboring molecules thereby causing a chain reaction within the body leading to damage.
Antioxidants [Fig. 6] are classes of compounds which prevent such a process. They not only
inhibit free radical generation but also enable living cells to repair and renew. The end result is
skin that looks and feels younger.