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Second edition
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1. INTRODUCTION 7
Background 7
Recent trends in subsidence claims 7
Changing attitudes towards subsidence and heave damage 10
Insurance cover 11
What is covered? 11
Geographical loading 13
2. CAUSES OF CRACKING 14
Physical changes 14
Seasonal temperature and humidity 14
Initial drying 15
Loss of volatiles 15
Freezing and thawing of water 15
Ef¯orescence 15
Chemical changes 16
Moisture expansion of brickwork 16
Sulfate attack 16
Corrosion or oxidisation of steel 17
Other chemical processes 17
Over-stressing 17
Vibration 18
Wear and tear 18
5. PREVENTING DAMAGE 41
Tree management 41
Structural alterations 41
Landscaping 42
Excavation 42
Drainage 42
8. MAKING A CLAIM 61
Professional advice 62
Loss adjuster 62
Building surveyor 63
Structural engineer 63
Civil engineer 63
Appointing the investigator 64
Project management 65
What to expect 66
9. THE INVESTIGATION 68
Initial investigation 69
Visual inspection 69
Distortion survey 70
Desk study 72
Trial pits 73
Drain survey 73
What caused the movement? 74
Engineer's Report 77
Borehole investigations 78
Things to look out for 80
10. MONITORING 83
What is monitoring? 83
Monitoring to con®rm that cause of damage is not
subsidence 84
Monitoring to establish cause of subsidence 84
Monitoring to measure rate of movement 84
Monitoring to check success of remedial action 84
Crack width monitoring 84
Steel rule 85
Magni®er and graticule 85
Glass tell-tales 85
Plastic tell-tales 86
Demec points 87
Brass screws 88
Interpreting crack measurements 88
Level monitoring 90
Interpreting level measurements 90
Monitoring lateral movement 92
Observation period 92
REFERENCES 141
The ®rst edition of Has Your House Got Cracks? was written in response
to the dramatic increase in the level of claims for heave and subsidence
damage to houses that occurred following the dry summers of 1989
and 1990. At a time when there was very little published guidance, it
helped homeowners understand the causes of subsidence and heave
damage and offered guidance on how such damage should be
remedied or prevented.
Over the years since the ®rst edition was published, there has been a
great deal of media coverage on the subject and a corresponding
increase in awareness amongst homeowners. Unfortunately, recent
trends suggest that increased awareness has encouraged some home-
owners to report minor damage that would be appropriately dealt
with by straightforward redecoration. But there are still cases where
insurers claim cosmetic damage where in reality the householder is
facing signi®cant subsidence. Making the correct assessment of the
cause of the presenting problem is critical to handling claims suc-
cessfully. A more serious problem, however, is where excessive or
insuf®cient remedial work is carried out. Both increase the costs for
insurers and inconvenience policyholders.
In 2001 the Financial Ombudsman Service was formed following the
merger of the Insurance Ombudsman with the other ®nancial sector
ombudsman schemes. We continue to receive numerous complaints
from homeowners about subsidence and heave. In many cases, the
reason for the complaint can be traced back to the initial advice offered
to the homeowner. Whether this advice is provided by a building
professional employed by the homeowner or the insurer, it seems
that too often the homeowner is not told what has caused the
damage, what is going to be done to ®x the problem (and the associated
time scales), and what he or she can expect the insurer to pay for.
I therefore welcome the second edition of Has Your House Got Cracks?
which has been extensively revised to re¯ect the developments that
have occurred over the last eight years of the 20th century. In addition
to explaining in simple terms why properties suffer subsidence and
heave damage, it offers practical advice on avoiding damage and
explains the procedures involved in investigating damage, deciding
on appropriate remedial work, processing a claim under the terms of
Building Insurance, and ®nally what to do if things go wrong.
This guide has been sponsored jointly by the Institution of Civil
Engineers and by the Building Research Establishment, which are
leading authorities on the subject of subsidence and heave.
I recommend this publication to homeowners as it provides a
valuable insight into the nature of building subsidence and heave, and
offers impartial and objective advice to anyone who has discovered
cracks to his or her house. In short, it is essential reading to anyone
who is either making a claim for damage or who is thinking about
making a claim.
Tony Boorman
Principal Ombudsman (Insurance)
Financial Ombudsman Service
Frequently asked questions
This short summary aims to answer the questions that most commonly
worry homeowners, and to give you a quick overview of the
subject. Each answer tells you where in the guide to ®nd further
detail, if you need it. Terms shown in italics are explained in the
Glossary.
surface soil are not the only causes of subsidence and heave, but they
are by far the commonest. Other causes of subsidence, including water
escaping from defective drains, and details of why clay soils shrink and
swell can be found in Chapter 3.
comply with other insurance policy conditions may entitle the insurer
to reject the claim.
Background
Much of the UK's housing stock is founded on what are known as
shrinkable clays. Such clays are strong enough to support a building of
four storeys on a simple foundation, but clays shrink when their
moisture content decreases and swell when it increases. Slight move-
ment of houses founded on these soils is therefore inevitable as a
result of seasonal changes in moisture content ± downward movement
or subsidence occurring during the summer and upward movement
or heave during the winter. Normally the whole house is affected and
the homeowner is unaware that any movement is taking place.
Additional moisture is extracted through the roots of vegetation and
certain trees have the potential to cause large amounts of shrinkage.
For example, an oak tree as it grows from a sapling to maturity extract-
ing progressively more moisture from the soil, might cause 200 mm of
subsidence in a highly shrinkable soil. This shrinkage would then be
reversed if the tree were removed or died. Obviously movements of
this size would have the potential to cause serious damage to any
houses built on conventional foundations. There are other processes
that can cause large amounts of foundation movement, such as landslip,
the collapse of a mine, or large-scale erosion due to a leaking water
main if it goes undetected. However, such examples are rare and the
vast majority of claims for subsidence and heave damage in the UK
relate to the small seasonal changes that take place in the surface
layer of clay soils.
Fig. 1. Trend in claims for heave and subsidence damage to domestic properties (based on statistics supplied by the
Association of British Insurers)
HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
A HOMEOWNER'S GUIDE TO SUBSIDENCE AND HEAVE DAMAGE 9
Insurance cover
What is covered?
Foundations can move downwards, upwards or sideways. In insur-
ance policies these movements are described respectively as subsi-
dence, heave and landslip. Although the wording in the insurance
policy will vary from company to company, unless there is a special
endorsement to the contrary, most domestic buildings policies provide
cover for damage to the building caused by foundation movement. A
typical description of the cover from a buildings policy is:
`Damage to buildings caused by subsidence and/or heave of the site on
which the buildings stand and/or landslip'
It should be noted that cover is limited to subsidence and heave `of
the site' to exclude damage caused by movements within the building
itself. Some other common exclusions are:
12 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
Geographical loading
An insurer will base its premiums on a number of considerations,
including the susceptibility of your property to burglary, ¯ood and
storm damage. Usually these factors are applied in the form of `geogra-
phical loadings', that is premium variations dependent on your post
code. In the case of subsidence, the geographical loading is based on
the predominance of shrinkable clay, determined by British Geological
Survey maps, and the number of previous claims in your area. Unfor-
tunately, soil type can vary greatly over short distances so that many
houses in an area where shrinkable clay is prevalent could, in fact,
be founded on comparatively stable sands or gravels.
Another potential inequity of geographical loadings is that they take
no account of the foundation design. There is no reason why a founda-
tion cannot be designed to resist movement caused by swelling and
shrinkage of clay soils, even close to large trees. The Building Research
Establishment (BRE), for example, has for 50 years been advocating
the use of short bored piles for buildings founded on shrinkable soil;
this type of foundation offers greater protection against shrinkage
and heave, and need not necessarily be any more expensive than con-
ventional strip footings or trench-®ll foundations (see Foundations,
Chapter 4).
If your house is situated in a high-risk area comprising shrinkable
clays, you may be able to persuade your insurer not to apply a geo-
graphical loading in respect of subsidence, because your house is
founded on a stable soil such as sand, or is built on piled foundations,
and therefore not susceptible to the effects of clay movements. How-
ever, an Engineer's Report will probably be needed and the cost of
this may exceed the additional premium. It is more likely, therefore,
that you will need to seek a quote from a company that applies a
lower loading to premiums in your area.
Chapter 2. Causes of cracking
Common sense suggests that walls and ceilings will crack only if there
has been movement. However, the appearance of cracks does not
necessarily mean there has been movement of the foundations. In the
vast majority of cases the movement is occurring within the wall
itself due to physical or chemical changes, over-stressing or vibration.
These four broad categories of damage are discussed in more detail
in the sections that follow, while cracking caused by foundation
movement is discussed in Chapter 3. Further information can be
found in BRE Digest 3611 or in Cracking in Buildings by Bonshor and
Bonshor2.
Physical changes
Seasonal temperature and humidity
Seasonal and daily changes in temperature and moisture content affect
all properties. In most cases the changes are fully reversible and do not
cause any obvious problems. Non-porous materials, such as metals,
glass and plastics, are affected only by temperature, while porous
materials, such as brick, concrete and timber, are affected by moisture
as well. Timber is particularly sensitive to changes in moisture content,
with most of the shrinkage and swelling occurring across the grain.
Most homeowners are surprised to learn that their house can expand
and contract by 5 mm or more over the course of a year as a result of
changes in temperature and humidity. Where a house is part of a
long terrace, the movements can be correspondingly greater. To
accommodate these movements, current (2002) practice requires that
movement joints be incorporated in any long walls at appropriate
intervals. However, this practice was adopted only in the 1960s and
most old terraces will be constructed in continuous brickwork.
Other parts of the property that may be susceptible to damage as a
result of thermal expansion and contraction include the walls support-
ing ¯at roofs, and panels of brickwork over long, reinforced-concrete
lintels.
A HOMEOWNER'S GUIDE TO SUBSIDENCE AND HEAVE DAMAGE 15
Initial drying
Cracks that develop in the ®rst few years following construction (or
refurbishment) can often be attributed to initial drying shrinkage. Any
products containing cement or plaster, including concrete blocks and
mortar, have a tendency to shrink as they dry out. This initial shrinkage
can be 50% greater than movement associated with seasonal changes.
Timber achieves an equilibrium moisture content of 12 to 15% in a
normally heated house. When timber-framed houses are built, it is
important that the seasoned timber used in the construction is pro-
tected to prevent it absorbing excessive moisture. Even so, drying
shrinkage can cause overall changes in the frame of 6 mm per storey.
If this movement is not allowed for in the design it can cause cracking
to the external cladding and distortion to door and window frames.
Loss of volatiles
Paints, putties and some sealants shrink as they lose solvents to the
atmosphere. This is an inherent characteristic of these products so, if
performance is critical, a non-solvent-based alternative has to be used.
Eorescence
Water that ®nds its way into walls because of inadequate damp
proo®ng or possibly a leak in the roof can pick up signi®cant amounts
of soluble salts from the brickwork. As the water evaporates from the
surface of the wall, the salt crystals are left behind ± a process known as
`ef¯orescence'. Under certain circumstances, the crystals are deposited
16 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
Chemical changes
Moisture expansion of brickwork
Unlike seasonal expansion and contraction, the initial expansion of a
clay product after it is removed from the kiln is actually a chemical
adsorption process. It is therefore irreversible and can cause substantial
changes in volume. The process is very rapid just after the product has
been cooled after ®ring. The rate then falls off with time, but can con-
tinue for 20 years or more. Materials vary markedly ± for example,
London stock bricks have a low expansion and under®red shale
bricks a particularly high expansion. However, for design purposes
it is usually suf®cient to allow a ®gure of 1 mm of expansion for
every metre length of wall.
Sulfate attack
Sulfate attack is an expansive reaction between Portland cement and
water containing soluble salts, which are usually sulfates of sodium,
potassium or magnesium. In brickwork, the source of the sulfate is
often the bricks themselves and it is normally the mortar or cement
rendering that is attacked. Salts can also be picked up by groundwater
that comes into contact with earth retaining walls or hardcore con-
taining unsuitable aggregates or gypsum plaster. The reaction leads
initially to cracking and spalling of the mortar and render, but even-
tually the gross expansion of the masonry will produce movement,
bowing, arching and general disruption.
The reaction occurs only when masonry is wet for long periods. It
does not, therefore, normally affect the area between the damp-proof
course and the eaves because this is partly sheltered and warmed by
heat leaking from the inside of the house. Parapet walls, free-standing
external walls and retaining walls are more vulnerable, especially if the
coping detail or waterproo®ng is defective.
Sulfate attack of ground ¯oor slabs is quite common and is usually
caused by the use of hardcore or ®ll material containing appreciable
amounts of sulfate. Gypsum products are sometimes included
inadvertently in hardcore, but most cases of damage involve the use
of burnt colliery shale, often referred to as `red shale'. These products
tend to contain considerable quantities of soluble sulfate and should be
avoided.
A HOMEOWNER'S GUIDE TO SUBSIDENCE AND HEAVE DAMAGE 17
The sulfate tends to attack the underside of the slab causing it to arch
and crack. The sideways thrust can also push the foundation brickwork
outwards causing slippage at the damp-proof course.
In most cases, further damage can be avoided by breaking out the
¯oor slab and replacing the hardcore with a sulfate-free material.
Over-stressing
Walls and other components carry the loads imposed by the self-
weight of the building materials and any external forces such as
wind or snow. These loads are normally referred to as dead and
imposed loading respectively. Cracking will occur wherever the total
loading ± or stress ± exceeds the strength of the building material.
This is seldom a problem in domestic properties because most of the
loading is compressive and both bricks and concrete blocks are very
strong in compression. However, over-stressing can occur locally
where loads are concentrated on to a small area via a beam or joist.
Loft conversions and other structural alterations, such as the
removal of a load-bearing wall or chimney breast, will inevitably con-
centrate the loading in the existing walls. Alterations of this kind
should always be done under the supervision of a suitably quali®ed
professional and with appropriate consent from your local Building
Control Of®ce.
18 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
Vibration
Research has shown that vibration associated with road traf®c is
incapable of causing damage to a conventionally-built house. How-
ever, common sense suggests that vibration of this kind is not going
to help a damaged property and may cause existing cracks to open
up slightly.
Severe vibrations associated with an earthquake, explosion or mine
blasting can cause extensive damage to nearby properties, but fortu-
nately these processes happen only rarely in the UK. Nevertheless, it
should be borne in mind that bomb damage in the Second World
War is a possible explanation for distortion in properties that are
more than 60 years old, especially in areas such as Coventry and the
East End of London.
bars. Traditionally, these were wrought iron bars ®xed to the party wall
and projecting through the end wall between the ground and ®rst ¯oor
levels. The brickwork of the end wall was then supported by a large nut
screwed to the end of the rod and bearing on an iron plate. The modern
equivalent, which is ®tted to the inside face of the wall, is shown in
Figure 28.
Lime mortar is susceptible to weathering in the form of a combi-
nation of erosion and dissolution due to the acidity of rainwater.
This process can normally be prevented by repointing, where the sur-
face pointing is scraped out and replaced with modern cement-based
mortar; periodic maintenance is required to ensure that the surface
pointing remains in good condition and does not fall out. If this main-
tenance is neglected, the lime mortar on the outside will compress and
the wall will tend to lean outwards resulting in a localised bulge.
Over long periods, both the book-end effect and localised weather-
ing of the mortar can cause signi®cant distortion to an outside wall,
resulting in large internal cracks. In most cases, the cracking alerts
the owner to the problem and appropriate remedial works are carried
out, such as ®tting tie rods and repointing the wall externally. Occa-
sionally, where the mortar has weathered signi®cantly, it may be
necessary to render the wall to prevent further deterioration. It
would be rare, however, to attempt to correct the lean to the wall or
the associated distortion to window and door openings.
While the repointing or rendering may prevent further deterioration
of the mortar, once a wall is badly distorted there is a tendency for
further insidious movement (and hence damage) to occur as a result
of gravity and any sideways loading on the wall. Because downward
movement of the foundations can cause an outward lean to the sup-
ported wall, damage of this kind may be mistaken for subsidence.
Another cause of wear and tear in houses is persistent dampness,
which can result in deterioration to plasterwork and mortar. Provided
the dampness is identi®ed at an early stage, the resulting damage is
likely to be restricted to local debonding of the plaster. However, if
the dampness goes undetected, it may give rise to processes such as
sulfate attack and can eventually result in distortion and localised
structural damage. Repairs are unlikely to correct the distortion and
it is again possible to mistake this for evidence of previous, or continu-
ing, subsidence.
Chapter 3. Causes of subsidence
and heave
Foundations are the supporting link between the building and the
ground. They transmit the loads from the walls, ¯oors and roof into the
ground. At the same time they transfer any ground movement back to
the structure, possibly causing distortions and damage. To perform satis-
factorily, the foundations must withstand ground movement and limit
distortion of the building to tolerable levels. Foundations can fail to do
this either because they are inadequately designed for the loads they
have to carry or, more commonly, because the ground movements are
greater than anticipated. The building then suffers from cracking.
Foundation movement may result from a wide range of factors,
which include:
. compression of a soft layer in the ground as a result of the
applied foundation loads;
. shrinkage and/or swelling;
. erosion;
. soil softening;
. variations in the groundwater level;
. compression of ®lled ground;
. collapse of mine workings or natural cavities;
. nearby construction or excavation;
. frost heave;
. chemical attack on the foundations;
. vibration.
Most of these processes will start to affect the property from the time of
construction and are therefore normally discovered during the ®rst ten
to twenty years.
A HOMEOWNER'S GUIDE TO SUBSIDENCE AND HEAVE DAMAGE 21
Erosion
Water seeping through soil has a tendency to wash out the ®ner
particles, which loosens the soil and ultimately leads to compression.
This process is commonly referred to as `erosion' or, more correctly,
as `sub-surface erosion'. It follows that erosion can occur only in
permeable soils such as sands and gravels, because the water will be
unable to ¯ow through a pure clay. However, some clay soils contain
thin layers of sand which can be susceptible to erosion. It is also the
case that drains are often laid in a gravel-®lled trench. The leaking
water can then erode the gravel and remove the support to the sides
of the trench, which allows the clay to swell and soften.
Erosion from a defective drain normally affects only the soil over the
drain and it is not uncommon, therefore, to see a depression in the
surface paving over the path of a drain. In older terraced properties
the drainage was sometimes laid before the house was built and runs
out underneath the front wall. Occasionally, therefore, a defective
drain can cause localised damage where it passes underneath the
foundations. But, in most cases, the drainage is outside the house,
which makes it less common for the escaping water to affect the
foundations. Signi®cant quantities of water are required for damage
to be caused and this normally occurs only when the drain is
blocked or severely fractured, or where the leakage has been occurring
over a period of many years. Even so, the damage is likely to be very
localised unless the soil contains permeable layers that dip under the
house.
content of the layer of soil near the surface. The remainder of this
chapter explains why clay soils change in volume and the circum-
stances under which damage is most likely to occur.
Characteristic properties
Clays are characteristically mouldable (or plastic) and smooth and
greasy to the touch. The more clay particles in the soil, compared
with silt or other coarser-grained material, then the more pronounced
these characteristics are. Each clay mineral has its own characteristics;
montmorillonite, for example, can absorb far more moisture than either
illite or kaolinite.
The strength of clays in their natural state can vary from `soft',
through `®rm' and `stiff' to `hard'. These classi®cations have precise
de®nitions3, but as a rough guide, you can easily mould a sample of
soft clay in your hand, while it is only just possible to push your
thumb nail into a sample of hard clay. The variation in strength of
near-surface clays is largely due to their geological history. The
stronger clays tend to be the older ones which had hundreds of
A HOMEOWNER'S GUIDE TO SUBSIDENCE AND HEAVE DAMAGE 23
Shrinkage potential
The potential for a clay soil to cause damage by shrinking or swelling is
called its shrinkage potential. For convenience, this parameter is
assumed to be proportional to the difference between the liquid and
plastic limits, a quantity which is known as the plasticity index or
simply the plasticity of the clay.
A HOMEOWNER'S GUIDE TO SUBSIDENCE AND HEAVE DAMAGE 25
Desiccation
Most people associate the term desiccation with a complete removal
of moisture; a `desiccator' for example is a device for removing the
last traces of free water from crystals and `desiccated' coconut is an
example of a food that has been thoroughly dried in order to preserve
it. To geotechnical specialists, however, the term has a slightly different
meaning: it is any reduction below the soil's natural moisture content
caused by evaporation or removal of water through tree roots. A soil
described as desiccated may in fact have a moisture content that is
reduced by only 1% or 2%.
Desiccation often reduces the moisture content of ®rm shrinkable
clays to values close to or below the plastic limit. This makes the soil
appear dry and hard and, near the surface, often causes the ground
to crack. In highly shrinkable soils, cracks 25 mm wide and 0.75 m
deep are not uncommon during dry summers.
moisture content below the plastic limit making the soil appear dry and
crumbly. From experience, certain threshold values for desiccation
have been developed based on either the plastic or liquid limits,
which have enabled investigators to judge whether or not a soil is
desiccated when they have moisture content values from the suspect
location only. Unfortunately, this approach is unreliable at best and
can sometimes be positively misleading. It should therefore be avoided
except where the investigator has other local information that can be
used for comparative purposes.
A far more reliable method of assessing the amount of desiccation
present in a clay soil has been developed by BRE. The ®lter-paper
test7 is a relatively simple laboratory procedure that measures the
state of suction present in a clay sample. This test should be preferred
wherever it is critical to determine the extent of desiccation ± for
example, to specify the required depth for underpinning or to decide
whether or not it is safe to remove a large tree.
Eect of trees
Work at BRE has shown that, in grass-covered areas, the effect of
evaporation in ®rm, shrinkable clays is largely con®ned to the upper-
most 1 m to 1.5 m of soil. However, where there are trees, and to a
lesser extent hedges and large shrubs, moisture can be extracted
from depths of 6 m or more. For high-plasticity clays that tend to
have very low permeabilities, rainfall during winter cannot fully
replenish the moisture removed by large trees during the summer.
Hence a zone of permanently desiccated soil develops under the
tree, as shown in Figure 3.
As the tree grows, the desiccated zone increases in depth and width,
producing more subsidence, which is likely to affect any nearby struc-
tures. In some instances, the subsidence associated with a growing tree
can be dramatic. Figure 4, for example, shows a property that has
cracked as the result of the growth of a poplar tree in the rear
garden. The increasing subsidence towards the tree has caused the
back wall of the house to rotate outwards, which is a classic symptom
of tree-related damage. This is an extreme case; most cases are nowhere
near this bad.
The extent of the desiccated soil depends on the moisture demand of
the tree. In general, broad leaf trees have a greater moisture demand
than evergreens. And, because of their size, oak, elm, willow and
poplar are notorious for causing damage. However, these are not the
ones that most commonly cause damage to housing, because other
A HOMEOWNER'S GUIDE TO SUBSIDENCE AND HEAVE DAMAGE 27
trees with lower moisture demands, notably plane, lime and ash, are
more frequently planted close to buildings. Information collected by
the Royal Botanic Gardens during the 1970s8 suggests that the trees
most likely to cause damage, in descending order of threat, are as
listed in Table I.
For each type of tree, the table gives the distance between the tree
and the building within which 75% of the reported cases of damage
occurred. As a rule of thumb, it would appear that damage can usually
be avoided by ensuring that the tree is no closer to the foundations than
its mature height. For the less `thirsty' trees, this ®gure can be reduced
to half the mature height. There are two reservations about this
generalisation. First, it takes no account of the shrinkage potential of
the soil or the depth of the foundations. Second, it is the leaf area of
the tree rather than its height that ultimately determines its moisture
demand. The rule should therefore be treated with caution and
common sense.
28 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
Eect of climate
The degree of desiccation in the soil is greatest towards the end of
summer and least in late winter or early spring, and this is re¯ected
in ground movement. To illustrate this point, Figure 5 shows ground
A HOMEOWNER'S GUIDE TO SUBSIDENCE AND HEAVE DAMAGE 29
Eect of surroundings
Desiccation depends on the availability of water, which in turn will
depend on a variety of factors. As a homeowner you can, to an
extent, control some of these factors, such as drainage and the
permeability of the surface layer ± more details are given in Chapter
5. Other factors, such as the slope of the ground and the shelter pro-
vided by the house and other nearby buildings, cannot be controlled.
Ground that slopes steeply away from the house may increase desic-
cation in the soil under the foundations by lowering the groundwater
table and making it easier for rain to run off rather than be absorbed by
32 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
Foundations
In the UK, the concept of providing foundations as a matter of routine
for low-rise buildings dates back to the early 19th century. Prior to this
it was common practice to build walls either directly onto the bottom of
a narrow trench or onto a thin layer of rubble compacted in the bottom
of a trench. The Victorians realised that the stability of the building
could be improved by spreading the load in the wall over a greater
area; they achieved this by stepping or corbelling the brickwork at the
base of the wall to form a footing as shown in Figure 7. In speculative
34 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
housing, the depth to the underside of the footing from ground level
was typically 450 mm unless poor ground forced the builder to dig
deeper; in some cases it might be even shallower. By 1890 it was
becoming common in better construction to line the bottom of the
trench with a layer of weak unreinforced concrete about 600 mm
wide and 215 mm deep. This type of foundation, which is known as
a strip footing, is still widely used, although the practice of using
corbelled brickwork has been dispensed with and the stronger,
modern-day concrete is relied on to distribute the load. Figure 8
illustrates a typical detail for a modern strip footing showing its use
with two different types of ¯oor.
By the late 1940s, it was realised that buildings founded at a depth of
450 mm were susceptible to movement as a result of moisture changes
in the soil. Consequently, a minimum foundation depth of 0.9 m (3 feet)
was proposed for buildings on clay soils. At the same time, it was also
realised that it would be cheaper to construct a foundation to this depth
by ®lling a trench, say, 400 mm wide with mass concrete, rather
than having to excavate a wider trench that would be needed for a
bricklayer to work in. Hence, a new type of foundation, the trench-®ll,
was developed that largely replaced the strip footing for building on
A HOMEOWNER'S GUIDE TO SUBSIDENCE AND HEAVE DAMAGE 35
Fig. 8. Typical strip footing shown with a ground bearing ¯oor slab (left)
and a suspended timber ¯oor (right)
the shrinkage potential of the soil and the geographical location of the
site. Recommended depths have remained unchanged since then and
are in the range 0.9 m to 3.5 m.
In summary, over the past 100 years foundations have become
progressively deeper, stronger and stiffer, especially for houses near
trees. This has both advantages and disadvantages. The advantages
are that, because they are deeper, the foundation movements caused
by variations in desiccation are smaller and, because they are stronger,
the foundations tend to spread the effects of the ground movements
over a larger area, reducing distortion. The disadvantage is that, when
excessive subsidence or heave does occur, the foundations will tend to
crack at one point, concentrating the movement over a short length of
wall and producing more severe damage in the superstructure.
Floors
Floor construction has also changed during the 20th century. In Victor-
ian times the ¯oor of the bottom storey was usually built of timber sup-
ported between the foundations and intermediate sleeper walls. This
suspended ¯oor provided an under¯oor space, which was sometimes
deepened under part of the house to provide a coal cellar, for example.
With the advent of concrete as a building material, the suspended
timber ground ¯oor was largely superseded by the concrete ¯oor
slab. The cheapest way of constructing such a slab is to cast it directly
on a layer of compacted hardcore resting on the ground, after remov-
ing the topsoil. However, this leaves the ¯oor very sensitive to heave
and settlement in the surface soil and is therefore undesirable on
shrinkable clay sites, especially where trees or other vegetation have
been recently cleared. It is therefore becoming increasingly common
to use a suspended ¯oor slab of reinforced concrete, which can span
between the foundations without the need for support from the
ground. This type of ¯oor is normally constructed either using precast
concrete beams with the gaps ®lled by lightweight concrete blocks
(known as a beam-and-block ¯oor ± see Figure 10), or by casting a slab
on a proprietary void former.
Walls
Most UK housing is constructed using load-bearing masonry. The
commonest form of masonry is brick, although natural stone is popular
in some parts of the country and, over the past 30 years, the use of
lightweight concrete blocks has become increasingly common,
especially for internal walls. The main alternative to load-bearing
38 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
Fig. 11. Dierent types of bond for constructing a one-brick-thick solid wall
40 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
Tree management
Because of their effect on moisture content, you should avoid planting
trees, hedges or large shrubs close to houses founded on clay soils.
Remember to take the fully mature height of any tree you plant into
account (see Effects of trees, Chapter 3). Further advice on safe plant-
ing distances can be found in BS 5837 (1992)12 and in the Gardening
Which article `Trees near the house'13.
Where existing trees are too close to foundations, you should think
about having them pruned or removing them altogether. But removing
a tree that is older than the house or any later extensions can be danger-
ous because it may result in subsequent heave. For more details see
Reducing the in¯uence of trees, Chapter 11.
Structural alterations
Structural alterations, such as the removal of load-bearing walls or the
addition of a second storey to a single-storey extension, can alter
foundation loads. Whereas this may cause settlement under the
more-heavily loaded foundations, the movements on ®rm clays will
42 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
Landscaping
You should take care in planning patios, car parking space, and any
other operations that alter ground levels on shrinkable clay sites.
These can reduce the effective depth of the foundations, thereby
increasing seasonal movements.
As mentioned in Effects of surroundings in Chapter 3, altering the
slope of the ground may also affect desiccation.
Excavation
Take care whenever a large pit or trench is dug close to a building,
because there is a tendency for the soil to move towards the excavation.
See Will I be affected by the remedial works? in Chapter 6. In shrink-
able soils there is the additional risk that the excavation will reduce the
groundwater level locally, thereby increasing desiccation.
Drainage
Water leaking into the ground near foundations as a result of damaged
drains is generally undesirable as it can erode the soil and back®ll
materials (Erosion, Chapter 3); in shrinkable clays it is also likely to have
a local effect on desiccation. Near trees, it may reduce desiccation in the
short term, although the tree will rapidly grow new roots to exploit the
moisture supply, causing further damage to the drain and ultimately
blocking it. Where there are no trees, the reduction in desiccation associated
with a leaking drain may be detrimental as it could increase the variations
in settlement around the property caused by seasonal evaporation.
A HOMEOWNER'S GUIDE TO SUBSIDENCE AND HEAVE DAMAGE 43
appoint your own Party Wall Surveyor (see Party Wall awards, Chapter
14). Alternatively, you and your neighbour may agree to the joint
appointment of a single Party Wall Surveyor. Generally speaking,
whether there is one Party Wall Surveyor or two, their role is to ensure
that the proposed work complies with the legislation. This role would
include minimising the inconvenience to you and minimising the risk
of damage to your property. However, there is nothing in the legislation
that allows you to prevent the proposed work being carried out.
Where the remedial work to an adjoining property includes under-
pinning, it is generally advisable for you to appoint your own Party
Wall Surveyor because of the special care that is needed (see Partial
underpinning, Chapter 13). If appropriate, the Party Wall Surveyor
will obtain expert help from an Engineer. Your insurer may be able
to provide you with the names of ®rms who specialise in party wall
matters. But, in most cases, any professional fees you incur in relation
to party wall matters will be your neighbour's responsibility and you
will be able to claim them back off your neighbour's insurer, provided
they have been incurred with the prior approval of the insurer.
Where you place a great deal of value on the tree, you may want to
seek your own professional advice. Many tree surgeons will provide
free estimates and advice. However, if you need a formal report
you will probably have to engage an arboricultural consultant. The
Arboricultural Association (Appendix B) can provide a list of
approved contractors and consultants who work in your area.
It is up to you to decide on what tree management is required,
although the investigator acting for your neighbour may make some
suggestions. Typically, these will range from cutting back the tree by
30 to 40% through to removal. In some cases, a tree specialist will
have been brought in to make speci®c recommendations. You should
bear in mind that reduction work will have to be repeated every two
or three years to prevent the tree causing problems in the future. There-
fore, in the long term, it is often cheaper to remove the tree rather than
maintaining it at a reduced size. Nevertheless, if you are fond of the
tree and do not feel there is a compelling case for it to be removed,
you may prefer to have it cut back. This work should be carried out
only by a quali®ed tree surgeon with appropriate insurance.
Arguments over trees can often sour relationships between neigh-
bours. With this in mind, you should consider any reasonable requests
from your neighbour carefully and, if you are unsure about whether to
remove the tree or not, at least have it pruned while you are making up
your mind.
Your own insurer is unlikely to become involved unless there is
damage to your own property and is therefore unlikely to fund the
cost of removing or pruning your trees. You may, however, need to
inform your insurer of a potential third party liability claim, if there is
any suggestion that your neighbour may seek to hold you responsible
for the damage to their house. This is very rare and most major insurers
have an agreement whereby they will not seek to recover their costs
from a tree owner who has acted reasonably. But this agreement applies
only to private homeowners and does not apply in cases where the tree
belongs to a Local Authority or commercial organisation.
As a ®nal point, it is worth remembering that prevention is better
than cure. You should therefore consider the potential effects of your
trees on your neighbour's house in accordance with the advice given
in Chapter 5. If you decide that your trees are undesirably close, you
should have them either cut back or removed before they cause
damage (see Tree management, Chapter 5).
Chapter 7. Recognising
subsidence damage
Appearance
Foundation movement tends to produce a few, relatively large, iso-
lated cracks, rather than a profusion of small, widely distributed
ones. These cracks often taper from top to bottom, re¯ecting the fact
that one part of the structure is rotating relative to another. Considered
as a whole, the pattern and taper of the cracking should be consistent
with a particular pattern of movement, as shown in Figure 13. Where
clay shrinkage is the cause, the pattern of cracking will often indicate
Location
The presence of shrinkable clay can often be con®rmed by the effect of
excessive surface movements on garden walls and other structures on
Fig. 16. Classic example of cracking in asphalt associated with a large tree
(BRE copyright)
Timing
Damage due to clay shrinkage normally shows up after a long period
of dry weather. Subsequently, the cracks will tend to close in winter, or
wet periods, and may re-open during another dry summer.
Other indications
Foundation movement tends to distort openings and often causes
doors and windows to stick. In some cases the distortion may also
affect partitions, ceilings, ¯oors and the roof, resulting, for example,
in rucking of wallpaper in corners and at the junction of walls
and ceilings, gaps below skirting boards or slippage between roof
tiles as shown in Figure 17. Large movements may disrupt services,
particularly drains.
The best way of con®rming that the foundations have moved is to
measure how much external walls are out of plumb or how much
brick courses are out of level. Brick walls are unlikely to have cracked
unless there have been several centimetres of differential settlement,
which should produce distortions that can be readily distinguished
from any variations in level or plumb due to construction inaccuracies.
Further details of the techniques used to measure the amount of move-
ment that has occurred can be found in Distortion survey, Chapter 9.
Is stability threatened?
Most UK houses have load-bearing masonry walls that carry the roof
and ¯oor loads. These loads cause mainly vertical compressive stres-
ses, and the walls' ability to carry such loads remains satisfactory
even if they are cracked. However, foundation movement tends to
increase the tensile and shear stresses in the walls, and very large
movements can make the walls unstable. Although this is unlikely to
occur unless there is Category 5 damage, it would effectively make
56 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
Is serviceability aected?
As a general rule, foundation movement is likely to impair service-
ability before any part of the building becomes unsafe; often doors
and windows will stick before any cracking has appeared. Although
you can normally ease and adjust these so that they remain functional,
continuing or seasonal foundation movement will make this increas-
ingly onerous. Once the damage reaches Category 2, you are likely
to have to ®ll cracks to prevent wind and rain penetrating. Whether
or not this is acceptable as a long-term solution depends more on
how rapidly the cracks open or close than on their width. With large
movements (those corresponding typically to Category 3 damage)
there is a risk of more serious defects, such as fractured service pipes
and slipping roof tiles.
Aesthetics
Damage usually begins to concern the average homeowner long before
it affects serviceability or stability. In such cases there will be a wide
range of opinions on what is and what is not acceptable, depending
on individual perceptions and expectations. To some owners the
regular reappearance of a 1 mm crack may be totally unacceptable,
whereas others may be unconcerned by a crack of 3 mm or 4 mm;
indeed, an external crack of this size may go unnoticed for many
years. If you own a Victorian house, it is clearly less reasonable to
expect it to be totally free from cracks in walls than would be the
case for a modern house.
Professional advice
A suitably-quali®ed professional will be needed to advise you on the
probable cause of the damage, the scope of the investigation that is
needed, and remedial options. Although the advice given should be
the same whether or not the damage is covered by an insurance
policy, it is clearly important that you are aware of the type of work
for which the insurer is likely to pay. The vast majority of disputes
arising from claims for subsidence and heave are caused by the home-
owner's expectations being raised unreasonably at an early stage of the
investigation. It has become increasingly common over the past
30 years for engineers and surveyors to specify underpinning for
houses that have suffered even minor cracks. Insurers, on the other
hand, are beginning to heed the advice of technical bodies such as
BRE15 that, in most instances, underpinning is not essential to main-
taining the building in a satisfactory structural condition. They are
increasingly likely to sanction underpinning only if it can be shown
to be the most cost-effective way of dealing with the damage. Criteria
for underpinning, Chapter 12, deals with this subject in more detail.
In many cases a single professional will see the claim through from
start to ®nish, including the speci®cation and direction of repairs and
remedial work. He or she therefore has a critical role to play in ensuring
that the necessary work is carried out ef®ciently and without committing
you to unnecessary expense. Unfortunately the skills required to do this
work do not fall neatly within any one of the professional disciplines
within the building industry. In practice, the investigation is likely to
be conducted by a member of one of the following four professions.
Loss adjuster
Many insurance claims involve a ®rm of loss adjusters. Their primary
role is to ensure that the claim is settled equitably and in accordance
with the terms of the insurance policy.
A HOMEOWNER'S GUIDE TO SUBSIDENCE AND HEAVE DAMAGE 63
Building surveyor
A building surveyor is someone who is expert in the repair and
maintenance of houses and other buildings; building societies insist
that a property is inspected by a surveyor prior to approving a mort-
gage. A quali®ed surveyor will be an associate or fellow of the Royal
Institution of Chartered Surveyors (ARICS or FRICS). However, this
quali®cation covers a range of disciplines, such as quantity surveying
and valuation, in addition to building surveying. Not all surveyors are
specialists, and many home surveys may be conducted by a `general
practitioner'.
Structural engineer
A structural engineer specialises in the design and use of masonry,
steel, concrete and timber as construction materials. Although some
structural engineers specialise in the design of large structures, those
who have their own company or work in small partnerships will
often concentrate on the repair, alteration and refurbishment of
houses and other low-rise buildings. Many structural engineers have
considerable experience of repairing houses damaged by subsidence
and heave, including the design of underpinning schemes. A quali®ed
structural engineer will be a member or fellow of the Institution of
Structural Engineers (MIStructE or FIStructE).
Civil engineer
A civil engineer specialises in building and construction generally.
There is therefore considerable overlap between this profession
and structural engineering and many engineers are members or
fellows of both the Institution of Structural Engineers and the
Institution of Civil Engineers (MICE, FICE). One of the main differ-
ences between the two is that civil engineering embraces construction
in the broader sense of the word including, for example, tunnels,
64 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
the investigation and will enlist the services of specialists as and when
they are required. Although this can prove satisfactory, it is inevitably
more expensive because of the duplication of fee and is thus unpopular
with insurers. It can also lead to confusion as to who is responsible for
the different aspects of the claim.
In an effort to improve the way claims are investigated and settled,
many insurers now take responsibility for appointing the investigator,
either directly or through a loss adjuster. In this way, insurers and loss
adjusters can build up a collection of professionals they know to be
suitably quali®ed and experienced. The main advantage for the home-
owner is that you are relieved of the responsibility for the costs of the
investigation. The disadvantage is that you no longer have your own
professional adviser. However, this should be far outweighed by the
fact that you can be con®dent the investigator is experienced in
carrying out the necessary investigations.
Most insurance companies will not object if you insist on appointing
your own investigator provided that the proposed person is suitably
quali®ed and experienced. The costs of any reasonably incurred pro-
fessional fees should then be accepted as part of the settlement of the
claim, if agreed beforehand. In some instances, you may want to
appoint an investigator before making a claim, to advise on whether
or not the damage is caused by foundation movement, for example.
In general, however, you should ask your insurer's advice before
you do this.
Where the insurer is prepared to fund an engineering input from the
outset at its own expense and you want to bring in a second opinion,
then the cost will not automatically be met by the insurer. Much
depends on the reason why you want a second opinion and again
you are only entitled to recover professional costs if these have been
approved by the insurer beforehand. The policy wording often refers
to `incurred with our agreement'.
Project management
Project management is a relatively new concept introduced by
several of the larger loss adjusting ®rms. These companies now
employ their own engineers and surveyors and offer insurers a nation-
wide claim handling service that includes both the loss adjuster and the
investigator duties. The system is obviously designed to improve
consistency of approach, meet minimum performance standards, and
reduce professional fees, although from a consumer's viewpoint
66 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
the service can become less personal, as the size of the operation
increases.
What to expect
The ®rst step in processing a claim for heave or subsidence damage is
normally for the insurer to appoint a suitably quali®ed professional to
visit the damaged property and establish that the damage is consistent
with a subsidence problem. Traditionally, this task was undertaken by
a quali®ed loss adjuster, although it is becoming increasingly common
for the insurer either to appoint an engineer to carry out the initial
inspection or to use a ®rm of loss adjusters that employs engineers.
If the indications are that the damage has been caused by subsidence,
the claim will be processed in one of two ways. Where the insurer has
appointed an engineer, he or she will organise appropriate investiga-
tions and advise you accordingly. Alternatively, where the insurer
has appointed a loss adjuster, he or she will either advise you to
appoint an engineer or appoint one personally on behalf of the insurer.
Following the initial visit, the engineer/adjuster will advise the
insurer what the claim is likely to cost and whether or not all the
damage falls within the terms of the policy. This will include consid-
eration of the sum insured, the age of the damage, and any other
speci®c conditions that may apply to your policy. In particular, if
there is reason to suspect that some or all of the damage may predate
your ownership, the insurer will probably want to see a copy of your
pre-purchase survey.
Following the ®rst visit, you will normally deal with the engineer/
adjuster rather than the insurer, unless there is a problem (see What if
things go wrong?, Chapter 15). If the investigator is engaged by the
insurer, or the adjuster has acted as an engineer in the ®rst instance,
you should receive copies of any technical reports that are produced.
If you employ your own investigator, you will need to send copies of
any reports, invoices and correspondence to the insurer's engineer/
adjuster.
Once appointed, the engineer will carry out any investigations that
are needed to help identify the cause of the damage and, having
done this, will recommend appropriate steps to mitigate or remove it
(e.g. repair a leaking drain or remove a nearby tree). Monitoring is
then likely to be needed to con®rm that this action has been effective.
In many cases the investigation is a protracted process, which may
go on for 18 months if there is a degree of uncertainty in selecting
A HOMEOWNER'S GUIDE TO SUBSIDENCE AND HEAVE DAMAGE 67
the best remedy. Ironically, it is the cases of serious damage that tend
to be resolved most quickly, because monitoring is less likely to be
speci®ed where it is obvious that measures are needed to stabilise
the foundations. The components of a typical investigation are
described in Chapters 9 and 10.
Where the damage is affecting serviceability, or where it is par-
ticularly unsightly, the insurer may pay for temporary repairs (e.g.
easing and adjusting doors and windows, ®lling large cracks and loca-
lised decorations) to restore the property to an acceptable standard
while the investigation is carried out. Generally, however, repairs
will only be sanctioned once it has been established that there is a
reasonable expectation that any future foundation movements will
not cause further signi®cant damage.
Finally, once the investigations have been completed, the investiga-
tor will put forward his or her proposals for repairs and any further
remedial measures that are needed to stabilise the foundations. The
repairs will normally be aimed at reinstating the property to its
former, undamaged condition and will therefore include the redecora-
tion of any rooms that have suffered damage.
The remedial measures proposed by the investigator should have a
reasonable expectation of preventing further signi®cant damage; they
will not guarantee that further damage will be prevented. In many
cases, there may be more expensive solutions (e.g. extensive under-
pinning) with a lower risk of further damage occurring, and there
may be cheaper schemes with a higher risk. As far as is practicable,
the investigator should point out the range of options available and
their relative costs and expectations. The ®nal choice will then rest
with whoever is funding the work and will be based on the individual
merits of the situation. An insurer may opt for a remedial scheme with
a high probability of preventing further damage in order to avoid the
expense and inconvenience for the homeowner of further claims.
More commonly, however, the insurer will be prepared to accept
that there is some risk of the damage recurring. In such circumstances,
it would seem inappropriate for the insurer to refuse to renew existing
cover or to apply a second excess in the event that you need to make a
further valid claim for damage attributable to the same cause (see What
if things go wrong?, Chapter 15).
Once the scope of any remedial works has been agreed, the work is
usually carried out by a building contractor. The procedures involved
at this stage are described in Having the work done, Chapter 14.
Chapter 9. The investigation
Initial investigation
The primary objective of the initial investigation is to ascertain the most
likely cause of the reported damage and, in particular, whether it has
been caused by subsidence, heave, a process unrelated to foundation
movement, or a combination of factors. Usually this is carried out
after a formal claim has been lodged with the insurer, although in
some instances it may be performed to help the homeowner decide
whether he or she has a legitimate claim. The essential elements of
the investigation are the same in either case.
Visual inspection
The initial survey of the damaged property should include a sketch
showing the position, width and taper of all internal and external
cracks14, as shown in Figure 18. There are two reasons for doing this
± ®rst, it provides an objective record against which future damage
can be compared and second, it helps to identify the pattern of move-
ment. Foundation movement normally affects a large portion of the
property and the resulting damage will be consistent with the overall
distortion to the structure. Often a sketch can highlight damage that
is well removed from the perceived area of movement, because one
part of the house is pulling on another. It follows that, for subsidence
and heave damage, the location of the cracking does not necessarily
correspond to the location of the foundation movement.
It is important to establish the history of the damage and you can
play an important role by providing information about when cracks
®rst appeared and whether they have remained at their original size,
70 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
Distortion survey
The purpose of the distortion survey is to estimate the amount of
foundation movement that has occurred since the house was built16.
Several centimetres of foundation movement are normally required
to cause cracking and this should be readily measurable. It follows
that the absence of a discernible slope to the ¯oors and brick courses
would strongly suggest that the damage has been caused by processes
unrelated to foundation movement.
Rudimentary measurements can be made by holding a one-metre
builder's level horizontal against the external brickwork in the vicinity
of damage and assessing any dip to the brick courses by eye. A
more accurate survey of the whole house can be carried out using a
portable water level17, which is essentially a plastic bottle connected to
A HOMEOWNER'S GUIDE TO SUBSIDENCE AND HEAVE DAMAGE 71
Desk study
A desk study comprises a search of existing data and reference
material, which can often provide useful clues to the cause of founda-
tion movement. As a bare minimum, the surface geology should be
checked by reference to the 1 : 50 000 geological map, or, where avail-
able, the six inch to one mile or 1 : 10 000 series. In some cases5 it may
be a good idea to check old maps, records and aerial photographs for
the locations of pits, streams, neighbouring properties, trees, and
other features that may have had an in¯uence on the foundations. It
may also be possible to ®nd copies of the plans for the original building
work and any extensions, which can then be used to check the intended
depth of foundations, any precautions taken against heave when the
house was built, ¯oor slab design, wall to ¯oor connections, and
other construction details. This course of action is cheaper and less
disruptive than having to excavate trial pits, although there is always
the snag that the actual construction may have deviated from that
shown in the plans. Foundation details, in particular, are likely to be
A HOMEOWNER'S GUIDE TO SUBSIDENCE AND HEAVE DAMAGE 73
Trial pits
Small excavations or trial pits can be used to con®rm the depth and
condition of the foundations and to establish the nature of the under-
lying soil. Shallow samples taken from a trial pit can be used for
tests of soil properties, such as plastic and liquid limits, which can
then be used to establish the soil's shrinkage potential (see Shrinkage
potential, Chapter 3). Deeper samples can be obtained using a hand
auger and these can then be used to measure the variation of moisture
content or suction with depth, and hence an indication of the depth of
any desiccation.
In clay soils, auger samples also allow the depth of any root activity
to be checked. The best way to do this is to break open lumps of intact
clay and look for any roots that are exposed, bearing in mind that the
roots that remove moisture are often no thicker than a hair. By studying
their structure under a microscope larger roots with a diameter of at
least 1 mm can be identi®ed to see what family of tree or shrub they
belong to. This can be useful where the nearby trees belong to a third
party who may want evidence to con®rm that the roots of their tree
are growing under your foundations, although ®nding roots from a
particular tree can be something of a lottery.
Trial pits will not always be necessary, especially where distortion
measurements have failed to detect any signi®cant slope to ¯oors
and brick courses. In other cases, trial pits often do little more than
con®rm what is already suspected ± for example, that the foundations
are shallow by modern day standards and that there are roots from the
nearby trees below footing level. An experienced investigator will
therefore weigh the bene®ts of excavating a trial pit against the cost
and potential disruption. Where the damage is relatively minor and
there is an obvious cause, such as a nearby tree, monitoring foundation
movements (see Level monitoring, Chapter 10) is generally more
informative, and less expensive, than detailed soil testing.
Drain survey
As explained previously (Erosion, Chapter 3), water leaking into the
ground near foundations is generally undesirable and the investigator
will often want to check the condition of the drains to help eliminate
74 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
(i) Soil type ± Only clay soils expand and contract as their moisture
content changes. If the soil is mainly granular (silt, sand, gravel,
or chalk, for example) volume change can immediately be ruled
out.
(ii) Foundations ± For a house on clay soil, its susceptibility to ground
movement depends chie¯y on the depth of its foundations. If no
trees are present, clay shrinkage is unlikely to damage a building
founded at a depth of 1 m or more. Even for an older property on
relatively shallow foundations, the investigator will need to con-
sider why the damage has appeared now and not previously.
In newer buildings, unusual foundations may provide clues
about the site conditions at the time of construction. For example,
the use of foundations more than 1 m deep in clay soils suggests
that the builder was anticipating large ground movements as a
result of trees cleared from the site prior to construction. This
can be checked by looking for deep roots in boreholes or by
studying aerial photographs of the site taken before construction.
Similarly, the use of piles, pads or a raft foundation suggests that
additional movement due to dif®cult ground conditions was
anticipated.
(iii) Pattern of movement ± Looking at the pattern of cracking, aided
by measurements from a distortion survey, will usually establish
which way the ground has moved ± up, down, or sideways ± to
cause the damage. Some types of damage are characteristic of
speci®c causes ± for example undersailing of brickwork below
damp proof course, as shown in Figure 21, usually denotes
swelling soil.
(iv) Trees ± As already mentioned, by in¯uencing desiccation nearby
trees play a crucial role in causing ground movements. However,
damage is normally associated only with medium or large trees. It
is very unusual for shrubs or other minor vegetation to cause
damage, unless there are other factors such as a sloping site.
(v) Water ± Groundwater running freely into a trial pit or borehole in
a clay soil indicates the presence of layers of coarse-grained soil.
This can affect the permeability of the soil dramatically and will
76 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
Engineer's Report
The investigator will normally produce a report, often described as an
Engineer's Report even if the investigator is not a Chartered Engineer,
summarising the results of the initial investigation and setting out
conclusions and recommendations. This report will be addressed to
whoever is paying for the investigation ± either the insurer or the
homeowner. It should be disclosed to both parties, although occasion-
ally you may have to formally request a copy from your insurer or loss
adjuster.
78 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
While the style of report and the level of detail are largely a matter for
personal preference, the report and any accompanying correspondence
should include a clear statement on the following three issues:
(i) the cause of the damage, indicating any areas of uncertainty and
how these are to be addressed;
(ii) what needs to be done to ®x the problem, including likely time
scales and further investigations, if appropriate; and
(iii) what the homeowner can expect the insurer to pay for.
Borehole investigations
Where deep soil samples are required or the soil conditions make hand
augering impractical, it may be necessary to carry out mechanical
boring. However, this is a relatively expensive operation and should
be used sparingly. Some examples of when it might be justi®ed are:
Fig. 22. Three types of sampling equipment ((b) and (c) courtesy of Abbey
Underpinning and Foundations; (a) BRE copyright)
What is monitoring?
In most cases, the only reliable way of assessing whether or not the
foundations of a property are moving is to carry out measurements
over an appropriate period of time; this is called monitoring.
A monitoring programme may concentrate on one of two aspects:
crack monitoring which records whether the damage is getting
worse (or better); or level monitoring which records the vertical
movement of the foundations. At present, level monitoring is relatively
rare and is used in only 5% of all claims. However, it does have a
number of advantages which are highlighted in the following sections.
In addition, it is occasionally necessary to record horizontal movement.
In such cases, for example where landslip is suspected, measurements
made in the ground are likely to be more conclusive than measure-
ments made on the structure.
Unfortunately, because it inevitably delays settling the claim, and the
reasons for the delay are often not appreciated, monitoring can cause
acrimony between policy holders and their insurer. It is therefore impor-
tant that the monitoring is properly speci®ed to minimise the delay.
Monitoring should be considered only if it is unlikely that the
condition of the property will deteriorate signi®cantly during the
period of observation. It is therefore important that the measurement
techniques are accurate enough to detect changes before they have
any noticeable effect on the building. Where the initial observations
indicate that the damage is worsening rapidly, it will be necessary to
consider the need for immediate remedial work without waiting for
the end of the monitoring period.
It also follows that the use of monitoring should be restricted to
claims where the information will in¯uence the remedial measures.
For example, there would be little merit in monitoring a damaged
garage or extension if the investigator has already decided that it is
beyond economic repair and will require demolition and rebuilding.
The bene®ts of monitoring fall into the following four broad
categories:
84 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
Fig. 23. Measuring crack width using a magnifying glass and graticule (BRE
copyright)
Steel rule
Provided suf®cient care is taken, crack widths can be measured to the
nearest 0.5 mm using a steel rule. However, because the readings tend
to be subjective and it is dif®cult to ensure that the crack is measured at
the same point each time, this method is normally used only for record-
ing the state of damage during the initial inspection.
Glass tell-tales
Cementing glass strips across cracks, as shown in Figure 24, used to be
a popular method of detecting progressive movement. However, such
86 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
Plastic tell-tales
The most popular system is shown in Figure 25. It consists of two
overlapping plates screwed to the wall, one marked with a cursor,
the other with a scale graduated in millimetres. The two plates are
mounted on opposite sides of the crack so that the cursor is initially
in line with the centre of the scale; any subsequent movement of the
crack can then be measured to the nearest millimetre on the scale.
The advantage of this system is that a reading can be taken at any
time by anyone, including the occupiers, without any additional
measuring equipment. The disadvantages are that the tell-tales are
relatively obtrusive, vulnerable to vandalism or accidental damage,
and have only a limited accuracy. In general, they should be used
only in conjunction with a more accurate method, such as the
`Demec' or `brass screw' techniques described below.
A HOMEOWNER'S GUIDE TO SUBSIDENCE AND HEAVE DAMAGE 87
Demec points
Two small, dimpled stainless steel discs are ®xed on opposite sides
of the crack. The distance between them can then be measured very
accurately with a separate, hand-held instrument called a `Demec'
gauge. This gauge was developed for measuring very small move-
ments ± as little as 0.02 mm ± in concrete and masonry in laboratory
tests. A disadvantage is that it is so accurate that it will also detect
movement due to changes in temperature and moisture in the brick-
work, which can confuse the picture. Demec points have the advantage
of being very unobtrusive, but they are only suitable for use on a ¯at
surface and cannot be used to measure cracks at corners. The main
disadvantage, however, is the limited range of the gauge ± the maxi-
mum extension that can be measured is 2.4 mm and the maximum
contraction 1.6 mm. Where signi®cant movement is occurring, it will
be necessary to install replacement discs at intervals to allow readings
to continue.
88 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
Brass screws
The technique recommended by BRE18 is to ®x small brass screws into
the wall either side of the crack and to measure the distance between
them using a caliper. This system has the advantages of being
simple, robust, relatively unobtrusive and, by using the calipers in
different modes, capable of measuring cracks in corners and other
awkward positions, as shown in Figure 26. If three screws are arranged
in a right-angle triangle, both horizontal and vertical movements can
be measured. With a digital caliper, an accuracy of better than
0.1 mm overall should be easily achievable.
Where screws might be obtrusive, particularly internally, Demec
studs can be used instead and the measurements made by locating the
tips of the caliper jaws in the central dimples. Plastic tell-tales, also
®tted with Demec studs, are now available to enable more accurate
measurements to be made using calipers. It should be noted, however,
that calipers have two sets of jaws: one for measuring internally and
one for measuring externally. Locating the internal jaws in the Demec
points will produce a different reading to using the external jaws. The
shape of the jaw also varies between different makes of caliper and
this can produce slight differences. Errors of this kind can be a source
of confusion when measurements are made by different investigators.
Level monitoring
Level monitoring uses a precision optical level to record the vertical
movement of small screws or other contact points ®xed to the building.
While other techniques exist, none can match the overall accuracy of
0.5 mm which is achievable with a precision level. For most applica-
tions, small screws or masonry nails can be used as monitoring points
and these are normally suf®ciently unobtrusive as to avoid acts of
vandalism.
Wherever possible, levels should be measured relative to a ®xed
reference point or datum. For most domestic applications, a storm-
water drain or similar deep feature is suf®ciently stable for this
purpose. However, where there are no deep drains or where absolute
accuracy is imperative, a deep datum can be specially installed at a
suitable depth20,21.
Fig. 27. Results of level monitoring exercise showing bene®ts of tree management (courtesy of Geo-Serv Ltd)
91
92 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
Observation period
It is often stated that monitoring needs to continue for a period of at
least a year to distinguish seasonal movements from any long-term
A HOMEOWNER'S GUIDE TO SUBSIDENCE AND HEAVE DAMAGE 93
Drainage repairs
Obviously, where damage has been attributed to water escaping from
defective drainage or water supply pipes, it is important to carry out
A HOMEOWNER'S GUIDE TO SUBSIDENCE AND HEAVE DAMAGE 95
Fig. 28. Repair using tie bars (courtesy of Falcon Repair Services Ltd)
Fig. 29. Repair using corner straps (courtesy of Falcon Repair Services Ltd)
Tree removal
Removing the tree altogether will have the greatest and most immedi-
ate effect on the levels of desiccation in the soil. As explained earlier,
this should be safe provided the tree is no older than any part of the
house, since the consequent heave can at worst only return the foun-
dations to their original level. In most cases there is no advantage
in a staged reduction in the size of the tree and the tree should be
completely removed at the earliest opportunity.
The time taken for the soil to recover depends largely on the
permeability of the soil. In extreme cases involving highly shrinkable
clays and large deciduous trees, it may take tens of years for the
ground to reach equilibrium, even though most of the heave occurs
during the ®rst few years; in one well-documented case23, where
large elm trees were removed from a London Clay site prior to con-
struction of some cottages, movements were still measurable 25 years
A HOMEOWNER'S GUIDE TO SUBSIDENCE AND HEAVE DAMAGE 99
Fig. 33. Observed heave of some cottages built on a London Clay site
cleared of trees prior to construction (BRE copyright)
later, as shown in Figure 33. In more permeable soils, full recovery may
be achieved in one or two years. The length of time that recovery is
likely to take may be a factor in deciding whether or not removing
the tree is an acceptable solution.
Where the tree is older than the house, or there are more recent
extensions to the house, it is not advisable to remove the tree altogether
because of the danger of inducing damaging heave. In such cases, your
investigator should calculate the heave potential in the soil adjacent to
the foundations before deciding whether or not the tree can be
removed.
100 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
Tree pruning
Where it is unsafe to remove the tree altogether and the cracking is
relatively minor, some form of pruning, such as crown thinning, crown
lifting, crown reduction or pollarding should be considered. Pollarding, in
which most of the branches are removed and the height of the main
trunk is reduced, is often mistakenly speci®ed because most published
advice links the height of the tree to the likelihood of damage. In fact
the leaf area is the important factor. Crown reduction, where individual
branches are shortened, is therefore generally preferable to pollarding.
The pruning should be done in such a way as to maintain the shape
of the tree, without leaving it vulnerable to disease (as pollarding
often does). This should be done only by a reputable tree surgeon or
quali®ed contractor working under the instructions of an arboriculturist.
In the short term, any form of pruning is likely to stimulate growth,
although the moisture uptake of the tree will still be reduced because
there are fewer leaves transpiring the moisture. Nevertheless, if the
tree is left to its own devices, there is a risk that the pruning will
actually produce a tree with a higher moisture demand. It is essential,
therefore, that the tree management is repeated periodically to
maintain the tree at a reduced size. Typically, this will involve pruning
every other year.
Root pruning
You may ®nd there is opposition to the removal or reduction of an
offending tree; for example, it may belong to a neighbour or the
Local Authority, or have a Tree Preservation Order on it. In such
cases there are other techniques that can be used from within your
own property. One option is root pruning, which is usually performed
by excavating a trench between the tree and the damaged property
deep enough to cut most of the roots. The trench should not be so
close to the tree that it jeopardises its stability12,24. In time, the tree
will grow new roots to replace those that are cut; but in the short
term there will be some recovery as the degree of desiccation in the
soil under the foundations reduces. Where the damage has only
appeared in a period of dry weather, a return to a normal weather
pattern may prevent further damage occurring.
A HOMEOWNER'S GUIDE TO SUBSIDENCE AND HEAVE DAMAGE 101
Root barriers
Root barriers are a variant of root pruning. However, instead of simply
®lling the trench with soil after cutting the roots, the trench is either
®lled with concrete or lined with an impermeable layer to form a
`permanent' barrier to the roots. Whether the barrier will be truly
permanent is questionable, because the roots may be able to grow
round or under it. However, the barrier will at least increase the time
it takes for the roots to grow back and should encourage the tree to
grow its new roots in other directions.
Soil stabilisation
For some causes of subsidence it is possible to prevent further movement
by improving the stability of the underlying soil; for example, cavities in
the soil caused by erosion can be ®lled by injecting cement-based grout
under pressure. The stabilisation of clay soils that are moving as a result
of changes in moisture content is less straightforward. In theory, the
characteristics of the clay and its tendency to change volume can be
signi®cantly altered by adding certain chemicals. Shrinkage potential
in particular can be reduced by using lime which replaces sodium
ions in the clay minerals with calcium ions. This technique is effective
in the laboratory and can be used to treat clay ®ll, but the extremely
low permeability of most shrinkable clays makes the technique imprac-
tical to use in the ground. This severely limits the usefulness of chemical
additives, although some proprietary treatments are available.
Another technique that is sometimes used in an attempt to reduce
seasonal shrinkage and swelling is arti®cially to increase the supply of
water. Gravel-®lled trenches may help reduce desiccation levels locally
provided they are maintained full of water. Unfortunately, unless large
quantities are used, any water added during the summer is likely to
evaporate before it in®ltrates the soil enough to have any lasting bene®t.
It is also unwise to excavate too close to foundations, as there would be a
danger of softening the soil and causing worse settlement.
Remedial underpinning
Where existing foundations are found to be inadequate, they can
be stabilised by underpinning, which means either providing new
102 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
Is movement continuing?
Where the structural stability of the building is not threatened, the
prognosis for further damage becomes of prime importance. Engi-
neers, loss adjusters and insurers will want to know whether the
movement is `progressive' ± in other words, is there evidence, such
as cracks widening, of increasing damage as a result of continuing
foundation movement?
Unfortunately, small changes in crack width are often mistaken for
evidence of continuing movement and are used as justi®cation for
implementing underpinning (see Interpreting crack measurements,
Chapter 10). Ideally, any conclusions regarding the stability of the
foundations should be based on level monitoring. Where this infor-
mation is not available, small changes in crack width should be
disregarded.
Even where there is evidence of continuing foundation movement,
this does not imply that underpinning is essential. As mentioned in
Chapter 11, movements associated with a large tree can be effectively
reduced by either pruning or removing the tree. On the other hand,
where heave has been caused by removing a tree, there is nothing
which can be done to prevent the ground from swelling and, if further
substantial movement is expected, underpinning is probably going to
be the best option.
Is underpinning needed?
The ®rst edition of Has Your House Got Cracks? included a suggested
framework for deciding whether a property should be underpinned,
which is summarised in Table IV. The framework is based on the
severity of the damage as de®ned in Table III and the results of
monitoring.
Since the publication of the ®rst edition, this framework has been
circulated to a number of major UK insurers for comment and the
feedback has been generally favourable. Indeed, no insurer has asked
that the framework be modi®ed, although it has been pointed out
that each case has to be judged on its merits and it is normally left to
the investigator, rather than the insurer, to decide whether or not
underpinning is justi®ed.
Chapter 13. Different types of
underpinning
Mass concrete
Underpinning using mass concrete is often referred to as `traditional'
underpinning because the principle has been in use for centuries. In
the past, when labour costs were low and before ready mixed concrete
became widely available, traditional underpinning was constructed in
brickwork; nowadays, mass concrete is invariably employed.
In principle, mass concrete underpinning is a method of deepening
existing strip or pad foundations so that they reach a stable stratum
with adequate bearing properties. The underpinning is carried out in
a series of bays or areas as shown in Figure 34. The width of each
bay is determined by the ability of the walls to span the gap created;
for most houses with competent brick or stone-work, this is likely to
be in the range 1.0 to 1.4 m. Where there is any doubt about the
wall's ability to span the bay, the wall should be needled and the load
transferred to temporary supports bearing on the ground.
Groups of bays with the same number (see Figure 34) are excavated at
the same time, so that no more than 20% to 25% of the wall is left
unsupported at once. The mass concrete is cast into the bay to leave a
75 mm to 150 mm gap between the concrete and the underside of the
existing foundation. Once the concrete has had a minimum of 24 hours
to harden, this gap is `pinned up' by ramming in a dry concrete with a
maximum aggregate size of 10 mm and just enough water to enable the
mixture to remain in a ball when squeezed in the hand. This dry mix will
have little tendency to shrink; ramming it in tightly creates intimate
contact between the old and new foundations and prevents settlement.
108 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
After the ®rst group of bays is completed, work can begin on the next
group. It is normal practice to allow at least 24 hours between pinning
up and the excavation of an adjacent bay. The procedure is repeated
until the prescribed length of footing has been underpinned.
A variant of traditional mass concrete underpinning is staggered or
`hit-and-miss' underpinning. Instead of forming a continuous strip
beneath an existing footing, the underpinning remains as discrete
bays or piers. The span between piers is determined by the strength
of the existing footings. This method would not normally be used
where foundation loads are relatively high or where the footings are
shallow, insubstantial or cracked as a result of ground movement.
The use of hit-and-miss underpinning is therefore somewhat limited,
but it can be an economic solution in favourable circumstances and
is especially suitable where existing foundations are constructed of
reinforced concrete.
The simplicity of mass concrete underpinning means that it can be
installed by a relatively non-specialist workforce and is therefore
available from sources such as local builders. Nevertheless, careful
speci®cation and direction of the site work by a quali®ed engineer
are considered essential in order to obtain a satisfactory result. The
A HOMEOWNER'S GUIDE TO SUBSIDENCE AND HEAVE DAMAGE 109
Pier-and-beam
Pier-and-beam or base-and-beam underpinning was introduced shortly
after the Second World War by the underpinning specialist Pynford
and is now widely used. It is useful where the depth of the foundation
needed is too great for traditional underpinning to be economic.
Instead, isolated mass concrete piers are dug to the required depth at
intervals round the building, with a reinforced concrete ground
beam, installed at or above footing level, that spans between the
piers and supports the walls (see Figure 35).
Pier-and-beam underpinning is feasible in most ground conditions.
However, it tends to be economical only at depths shallower than
about 4 m. Excavations can be carried out where there is loose or
waterlogged soil by using shields (e.g. trench sheeting), but this adds
considerably to the cost. Pier-and-beam underpinning is particularly
suitable for use in shrinkable clay where further volume changes are
anticipated. The piers can be excavated to depths at which the effects
of shrinkage and heave are minimal and, provided the sides of the
piers are protected, the building can be isolated from the effects of
further volume changes in the soil. The ground beam serves to
strengthen the building early in the underpinning process.
corners and intersections to form caps for attaching to the pile heads.
Intermediate supports are formed by pairs of piles with `needle
capping beams' or, where internal access is restricted, using `cantilever
pile caps' as shown in Figure 36.
Piles vary in diameter from 150 mm to 400 mm for low-rise build-
ings, although smaller diameters may be used on lightly-loaded
structures. Because of access limitations and the need to minimise
vibration which could affect vulnerable structures nearby, the piles
are usually constructed by augering a hole in the ground in which
concrete is then cast to form the pile. However, smaller-diameter
piles may be driven.
Where external access is restricted, the existing ¯oor slab can be
removed and the piles installed inside the house; they are then
A HOMEOWNER'S GUIDE TO SUBSIDENCE AND HEAVE DAMAGE 111
Mini-piling
In this method of underpinning, there is no ground beam. Loads are
transferred directly from the structure to the piles, either by needles or
cantilevered pile caps, or by placing the piles directly through the exist-
ing footing. In low-rise buildings the pile supports would normally be at
1 m centres or less. Because of the short spans between piles, pile loads
are low and small-diameter mini-piles are used. Typically, diameters
range from 65 mm to 150 mm. They are formed either by driving steel
or plastic casings into the ground and then ®lling them with cement
grout, or alternatively they can be bored and cast in situ. Which tech-
nique is adopted depends largely on the ground conditions. Guidance
on the design, supervision and approval of remedial works and new
foundations for low-rise buildings based on mini-piles is given in BRE
Digest 313.26
Mini-pile systems are distinct from pile-and-beam and piled-raft
underpinning because they rely on the strength of the existing founda-
tions to transmit the wall loadings. Consequently, mini-piling tends to
be cheaper than other pile-based systems and can even compete with
mass concrete underpinning on cost. However, because of the small
diameter of the piles, they are unsuitable for applications where high
lateral loads are envisaged, as is often the case in shrinkable clay.
Moreover because mini-piles can be used only where the strength and
integrity of the existing foundations can be assured, they are unsuitable
for older properties or properties in a bad structural condition.
Mini-piles are particularly suited to underpinning buildings on
uniform, shallow thicknesses of ®ll and natural soils not susceptible
to shrinkage and heave. They are also one of the few techniques that
can be used to stabilise ¯oor slabs (see Figure 38).
Partial underpinning
Where only part of the building has been affected by ground move-
ment, it is generally unnecessary to underpin the whole structure.
An underpinning scheme that does not include all load-bearing
walls is called partial underpinning. In some cases, the underpinning
will be restricted to one side of the property; in others, the internal
walls may be left in their original condition. Underpinning of a semi-
detached or terraced house, where it may not be practical to extend
the remedial scheme to the neighbouring properties, is also in effect
partial underpinning.
114 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
The procedure for having the work carried out is the same whether the
damage is being repaired under an insurance claim or you are paying
for it yourself. In either case, a suitably quali®ed professional should be
employed to prepare a speci®cation and to direct the work. Although
this may sometimes be an architect or surveyor, if your house is being
underpinned you will need an engineer.
The speci®cation
The professional adviser will draw up a schedule (or list) of work to be
done, which will fall into three broad categories:
(i) groundworks: underpinning, rebuilding foundation brickwork,
grouting, replacing ¯oor slabs, levelling paving, etc.
(ii) structural repairs: removing and rebuilding sections of brickwork,
resin injection or stitching of cracks, installing tie rods and steel
straps, repointing mortar joints, etc.
(iii) making good: plastering, repapering or retiling walls, adjusting
doors and windows, painting.
Where the work is being done under an insurance claim, you will
have to agree the scope of the work with the loss adjuster. This often
involves an element of compromise, particularly over decoration.
Very few houses are damage free and there will often be a number of
minor cracks in areas well away from the focal point of the movement.
These may have been caused by one part of the house pulling on
another or may simply be wear and tear. Understandably, most home-
owners expect the insurer to pay for the repair of all cracks that have
appeared since the subsidence occurred. In some cases, this would
involve redecorating virtually the whole house. The loss adjuster, on
the other hand, will suspect that some small cracks may predate the
subsidence or will have appeared anyway due to normal wear and
tear. The truth is that it is generally impossible with minor cracks to
tell how old they are or what has caused them.
A HOMEOWNER'S GUIDE TO SUBSIDENCE AND HEAVE DAMAGE 117
Every case has to be treated on its own merits, but one possible solution
is to try and distinguish between rooms containing structural damage and
rooms containing cosmetic cracks that can be dealt with by a decorator.
For the rooms containing structural damage, some plasterwork will
have to be removed and the rooms will therefore require decoration to
hide the repairs. It is therefore only fair that the insurer is asked to pay
for this. For rooms containing only cosmetic cracks, unless the damage
is very unsightly, there is no disadvantage to dealing with the cracks as
part of routine decoration which most homeowners carry out every 5 to
7 years. For rooms containing recent damage that are close to the
perceived area of subsidence, it would be fair to ask the insurer to pay
for the additional cost of dealing with the cracks and contribute towards
the decorating costs. Equally, it would be unreasonable to expect the
insurer to pay for cosmetic damage that is not fresh or where the
rooms are in parts of the house well removed from the subsidence.
As a general point, it is worth remembering that the insurer's
responsibility is for reinstatement on a like-for-like basis. Any decora-
tions should therefore be to an equal standard to the existing.
However, if you want to take the opportunity to wallpaper a room
that was previously painted or to upgrade the quality of the existing
®nishes, the loss adjuster should do his or her best to accommodate
these improvements in the schedule. In most cases, you should
expect to pay only for the extra cost of the materials.
The contract
Traditionally, the homeowner was expected to enter into a formal con-
tract with the building contractor before having any insurance-funded
work carried out. However, some insurers now prefer to appoint the
contractor directly, which offers a number of potential advantages:
Cash settlement
The insurer's main concern will be to ensure that any remedial works
and structural repairs are carried out properly to minimise the
possibility of the damage recurring. The insurer has little or no interest
in whether the decorations you are entitled to are carried out. At the
same time, many homeowners prefer to carry out their own decora-
tions or may have a local decorator that they know and trust. Under
these circumstances, the insurer will normally be prepared to offer
you a cash settlement instead of paying for the decorations. This
payment will be based on the prices estimated by the builders who
have quoted for the work, but will include a number of deductions.
In particular, most insurers will not pay the VAT element unless it
can be demonstrated that the work was actually carried out by a
VAT-registered contractor. Other deductions will include the policy
excess and any contingencies in the speci®cation to cover unforeseen
problems.
Another situation where a cash settlement may be useful is where
the homeowner is planning to carry out major alterations, such as
the construction of a new extension. It makes little sense to have
rooms repaired and decorated if there is a likelihood of the decorations
being spoilt by the proposed improvements. In such circumstances, the
professional adviser should be able to recommend to the insurer a pay-
ment based on the cost of the work that is being omitted. The home-
owner can then put this money towards the cost of the improvement.
120 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
and loss of rent costs are often shared between buildings and contents
insurers, if your cover is with different companies.
Payment
Because the contract is between you as homeowner and the builder,
you are responsible for making the necessary payments. However,
where the work is being done as part of an insurance claim, you can
normally sign a mandate, which allows your insurer to pay the builder.
In fact, many builders insist on the mandate being in place before they
accept the contract.
For a large claim, the builder will want to receive payments in stages
during the course of the work. Whether it is you or the insurer who is
paying, your professional adviser will need to certify the builder's
invoices before they are passed for payment. This ensures that the
builder is paid only for work that has been completed satisfactorily.
Often insurance policies are arranged through a bank or building
society with which a homeowner has a mortgage. It is sometimes a con-
dition of the mortgage that payment is made by the insurer in the joint
names of the homeowner and the building society, so that the society
will need to countersign the cheque before it is passed on to the home-
owner or contractor.
At some stage, you will be asked for your policy excess. Some
insurers deduct the policy excess from the builder's ®rst invoice,
which means that you have to pay the excess to the builder soon
after the work has started. A preferable option is for you to make a
cheque out to the builder, which your professional adviser will then
hold onto until the work has been completed to your satisfaction. How-
ever, to allow you to do this, the insurer has to agree to pay the initial
invoices in full. Alternatively, you may be able to pay the policy excess
directly to your insurer, which then allows the insurer to pay all the
contractor's invoices.
When the work is virtually complete, you may be asked to sign an
`acceptance form', which con®rms to the insurer that the claim has
been resolved to your satisfaction and allows the ®nal payment to be
made to the contractor.
Supervision
The professional adviser will visit the site periodically to inspect
the work, record progress and sort out any technical problems. The
122 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
Building Regulations
Any underpinning or major rebuilding work requires approval under
the Building Regulations (1991)29 or, in the case of buildings in Scotland,
the Building Standards (Scotland) Regulations (1991)30. To obtain this
approval, plans for the work have to be submitted to the Local
Authority, who will then make periodic inspections of the work on
site. The responsibility for obtaining Building Regulations approval
may rest with the professional adviser or the contractor, and should
be explicit in the contract. There are different ways in which Building
Regulations approval can be obtained; your professional adviser
should be familiar with those.
Warranties
As a general principle, it is impractical and uneconomic to specify
remedial solutions that will absolutely guarantee that no further
damage will occur. In most cases, the scheme speci®ed by the pro-
fessional adviser will have a reasonable expectation of providing a
satisfactory solution considering the relative cost and likely effective-
ness of the other options. The professional adviser will not, therefore,
give any form of guarantee or warranty. Many will, however, issue a
Certi®cate of Structural Adequacy which indicates that the problem
A HOMEOWNER'S GUIDE TO SUBSIDENCE AND HEAVE DAMAGE 123
Problems can arise at three stages: during the investigation; while the
work is being done; and at any time after the completion of the
work, should the damage return. The following sections explain
what you should do if things go wrong.
you later pursuing the matter through the courts. However, unless you
qualify for Legal Aid, the cost of legal action is generally prohibitive
and it should only be considered as a last resort. If you do decide to
take legal action, contact a solicitor with experience of handling sub-
sidence or heave claims. The cost of taking such advice will be at
your expense and an action through the courts may take a considerable
time, perhaps years.
After completion
If the remedial work fails to prevent the damage returning, the insurer
may deal with the damage as a new claim subject to a separate excess
or a continuation of the old claim, depending on the circumstances. For
example, if the ongoing movement is due to inadequate design or
workmanship in the original underpinning, then the new damage
may not give rise to a valid claim. In such cases the homeowner
may need to take up the matter directly with the builder or professional
adviser, or possibly consult a solicitor.
It is rare for an insurer not to continue cover for subsidence and
heave following the settlement of a claim. If cover is refused you
should establish the reasons as refusal to continue cover clearly implies
some lack of con®dence in the work carried out. Whereas an insurance
company has the right to cancel or alter the contract of insurance,
provided adequate notice is given, you should not be disadvantaged
as a result of having made a claim. Consequently, if, by refusing to
continue the cover, the insurer leaves you with a property that is
uninsurable, you should consider reporting the matter to the FOS.
The FOS cannot compel the insurer to offer cover, but could instruct
the company to pay for further work to make the property an
acceptable risk to another insurer.
Chapter 16. Buying and selling
Surveys
The procedures relating to buying and selling properties are currently
under review and one suggestion that is being considered is for the
seller rather than the purchaser to have the property surveyed. This
avoids the same property being surveyed repeatedly by a number of
potential buyers and also provides the seller with evidence that his
or her property is free of major defects ± a sort of MOT for houses.
However, as things stand, the onus is on the buyer to arrange for a
survey to be carried out.
There are essentially three types of survey: (1) a basic valuation
survey, which is the minimum, required by the mortgage lender; (2)
a more detailed Home Buyers Report, which is in a standard question
and answer format; and (3) a Condition Survey, which is a comprehen-
sive appraisal of the condition of the property and any maintenance
that is required (sometimes referred to incorrectly as a `Full Survey'
or a `Full Structural Survey'). Even a Condition Survey will have
certain limitations and these will normally be listed at the start of the
report. In many cases, further inspections by specialist contractors
A HOMEOWNER'S GUIDE TO SUBSIDENCE AND HEAVE DAMAGE 127
Engineer's Report
Most surveys, even those described as a `Full Structural Survey', are car-
ried out by Building Surveyors (see Professional Advice, Chapter 8).
Where there is evidence of structural damage or recent repairs, most
surveyors will recommend that an Engineer be appointed to comment
speci®cally on the possibility of there being subsidence. If the damage
has clearly been caused by something other than subsidence, the Engi-
neer will recommend appropriate remedial measures and/or repairs.
Where there is a possibility that the damage is subsidence, however,
the Engineer is likely to suggest that the damage be reported to the exist-
ing insurer (i.e. the seller's insurer) and this will initiate the procedures
described in Chapter 8. In fact, it is becoming increasingly common for
subsidence claims to be initiated at the point of sale and, to avoid the
buyer having to pay for the Engineer's Report, many surveyors will
suggest simply that the seller report the damage to his or her insurer.
The procedure for completing the sale of a property during the
course of an insurance claim is described under Selling after
damage has been reported to insurers, later in this chapter.
Distortion
The presence of distortion in itself is not necessarily a cause for
concern. In many older properties it is considered `characterful' and
A HOMEOWNER'S GUIDE TO SUBSIDENCE AND HEAVE DAMAGE 129
Fig. 39. Gross distortion to the gable wall of a Victorian property which has
been highlighted by the reconstruction of the wall belonging to the
adjoining property
these should be checked to make sure they are not leaning excessively.
An example of a distorted bay is shown in Figure 43.
Internally, distortion will often affect door openings, causing them to
lozenge. Over the years, the door will have been adjusted periodically
to ®t the opening and will itself be lozenge shaped. In panel doors this
results in an obvious taper to the top panel as shown in Figure 44, so
that even relatively small movements are readily apparent. Window
openings can be affected in a similar way. Often the window frame
A HOMEOWNER'S GUIDE TO SUBSIDENCE AND HEAVE DAMAGE 131
Fig. 40. Wide mortar-®lled gap between the window frame and the
brickwork indicates that there has been previous distortion to the wall
itself will have been replaced at some point requiring the use of tapered
packing between the frame and the opening.
Walls, particularly outside walls, should be checked internally for
signs that they are leaning. Because it is hung vertically, wallpaper
with any form of pattern can be a very useful indicator of whether
the corners of a room are straight or not. Tiles in bathrooms and
kitchens can be used in a similar way. Check also that features such
as pelmets and picture rails line up with ceilings. The human body is
relatively sensitive to changes in level and often you will get the
impression that you are walking downhill if there is a signi®cant
slope to the ¯oor. This can be checked easily with a pocket spirit
132 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
Fig. 41. Cracking between the window frame and brickwork is evidence of
continuing movement in the wall
level. The same instrument can be used to check that mantelpieces and
window cills are horizontal.
Where there are signs of recent damage or recent repairs, you should
seek professional advice on the scope of any further repairs that will be
Fig. 42. Damage and distortion to brickwork associated with the previous
collapse of a brick arch lintel
A HOMEOWNER'S GUIDE TO SUBSIDENCE AND HEAVE DAMAGE 133
Fig. 44. Panel door that has been adjusted to ®t a distorted opening
Signs of subsidence
The characteristics of damage caused by subsidence have already
been described in Chapter 7. Before looking for signs of movement,
it is useful to know whether the surface soil is a shrinkable clay
or not. The map shown in Figure 2 will give you an idea. However,
it is much better to check the relevant 1: 50 000 scale maps that are
A HOMEOWNER'S GUIDE TO SUBSIDENCE AND HEAVE DAMAGE 135
available from the British Geological Survey at a price of about £10 each
(Appendix B). Failing this, ask the sellers whether they notice cracks
opening up in the lawn during dry weather (which indicates the
soil to be shrinkable) and check paving and garden walls for signs of
movement. Anything that is founded on the surface soil will be far
more susceptible to movement than the house. The Estate Agent
should also be able to provide some local knowledge, as should the
Building Control staff in the local Council of®ces.
If the soil is thought to be a shrinkable clay, it is important to appreci-
ate that the property will be moving up and down slightly over the
course of the year as a result of the seasonal changes taking place in
the surface soil (see Chapter 3). However, these movements are usually
no more signi®cant than the thermal expansion and contraction that
affects all buildings. In most cases, the disadvantage of owning a
house founded on a shrinkable clay is that doors or windows may
stick during the summer or, if you are unlucky, you may experience
small cosmetic cracks during prolonged periods of hot weather. The
presence of clay therefore should not, in itself, put you off buying a
house.
At the same time, it should be appreciated that trees and large shrubs
will cause larger seasonal shrinkage and swelling in the surface soil
and cases of structural damage are almost always associated with a
medium or large tree. A note should therefore be made of any signi-
®cant trees in the immediate vicinity of the property and the closest
parts of the property (for example bay windows or porches) should
be examined for signs of movement or recent repairs. If there are
none, there is no reason to suspect problems in the future, unless the
trees are young and growing vigorously. If this is the case, you
should bear in mind the cost of future tree maintenance for trees
belonging to the property and make enquiries regarding the ownership
of any trees that do not belong to the property. For example, if they
belong to a neighbour, does he or she have them cut back regularly?
See Chapter 6 for further details of controlling trees belonging to a
neighbouring property.
You should also bear in mind that any house built since 1965 may
well have deeper foundations to protect it from the effects of any
trees that were present when the house was built.
If the surface soil is not clay ± for example it is shown on the
geological map as a sand or a gravel ± the foundations will not be
affected by nearby trees. You will, however, still have to consider
the implications for managing any trees belonging to the property to
136 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
maintain them in good health and prevent them blocking out too much
light.
you have not noticed them previously, the sensible course of action is
to have the cracks repaired. Before doing so, it is a good idea to take
some photographs of the cracks and you should also keep a copy of
the builder's invoice. Any external repairs are likely to be picked up
in the pre-purchase survey and the surveyor may want to satisfy him
or herself that the work was done properly.
Conversely, where you suspect that the cracks have appeared only
recently and where there is evidence that they have been caused by
foundation movement (see What should I do? in Chapter 7) you
should not carry out any repairs without ®rst reporting the damage
to your insurer. This need not prevent you from pressing ahead with
the sale of the property, as discussed in the following section.
Will a claim for subsidence damage make it dicult when I come to sell?
In principle, the fact that you have had a claim for subsidence damage
should not reduce the market value of your property. Under the terms
of your insurance cover, your property will have been reinstated to its
former, pre-damaged condition and all appropriate measures will have
been taken to prevent a recurrence of the damage. Your house will be
less at risk of future damage than it was before you made the claim and,
arguably, it will be less at risk than other properties in the same
neighbourhood, which have not been investigated.
Unfortunately, insurers maintain that traditionally this has not been
the case and suggest that the reverse is true ± in other words, a house
that has previously suffered damage is a `bad risk', especially as the
cost of rectifying a poorly repaired house can be disproportionately
high the second time around. Most insurers will therefore decline to
offer subsidence cover on a property that has already had a claim
made on it, or will only offer special terms and conditions. The absence
of normal insurance cover would, in itself, put most people off buying
the house, but the real problem is that no mortgage lender will provide
funds for an uninsured property.
To get round this problem, following a claim for subsidence damage,
most major insurers will continue to insure a property under normal
terms and conditions, and will transfer this cover to a new owner
when the house is sold. Clearly, to do otherwise would suggest that
the insurer was in some way unhappy with the way in which the
claim was resolved.
In recent years, it is also the case that insurers are more prepared to
consider every case on its merits. Therefore, while you may not be able
to get a quote for an underpinned property over the phone, some
insurers will offer you reasonable terms once they have received full
details of the work that was done. In addition, there are one or two
small insurers who specialise in insuring properties that have been
the subject of a previous claim.
A HOMEOWNER'S GUIDE TO SUBSIDENCE AND HEAVE DAMAGE 139
Every mortgage lender has its own rules about the type of property it
will lend against. But, provided the property is normally insured, the
risk of a future occurrence of subsidence damage should have little
bearing on its inherent value. There is no good reason, therefore,
why a mortgage lender should refuse a loan on a property simply
because it has previously been damaged by subsidence. Many
buyers would look at it in the same way ± The property has had problems
in the past. These have been put right. If there are further problems, my
insurance is there to pay for them. Arguably, the only ®nancial implication
of a future occurrence of subsidence is the policy excess, which is
usually £1000, a small amount in comparison to the value of the house.
Of course, in practice there are other considerations. In particular,
not many people would welcome the stress and inconvenience asso-
ciated with a claim for subsidence damage. The prospective purchaser
should therefore make any enquiries that may be necessary to gauge
the severity of the previous problem to satisfy himself or herself that
appropriate steps were taken to avoid the damage recurring. These
enquiries would typically include obtaining details from the current
insurer, seeing copies of the original reports and investigations, and
ideally speaking with the investigator personally.
Except in the unlikely event of these enquiries yielding any informa-
tion to suggest that the previous investigations were not carried out
competently, the buyer should normally be assured that the risk of a
recurrence of signi®cant damage is remote. In most cases involving
clay shrinkage and swelling, the original damage will have been
inconsequential in structural terms and any recurrence is likely to be
less severe than the original. The most likely cause of a recurrence of
damage is the re-growth of the tree that was cut back after being iden-
ti®ed as the cause of the damage. This risk can be reduced considerably
by ensuring that the owner of the tree is aware of his or her continuing
responsibility to maintain the tree periodically (see Chapter 6).
The time interval between the completion of the repairs and the sale
of the property is also an important factor to be taken into considera-
tion. For example, provided there are no signs of a recurrence of the
damage, a buyer can be sure that there has been no further signi®cant
movement to a property that was underpinned and repaired, say, ®ve
years ago. Conversely, a property that was repaired only recently has
yet to pass the test of time. However, it is more likely that the insurer
will have full details of the claim relating to the recently repaired
property and it should be possible to obtain a Certi®cate of Structural
Adequacy, which is described in the next section.
140 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
Non-disclosure
When you come to sell your house you are obliged to disclose any
material fact which may affect its value and this would include any
repairs carried out as part of an insurance claim, especially if this
work included underpinning. Often you will be asked speci®cally if
the property has been underpinned. You may even be asked whether
you are aware of any underpinning carried out to your neighbours'
properties or of any neighbourly disputes involving trees.
If you have simply reported minor cracking to your insurer and,
following appropriate investigations, you have been advised that the
damage is not caused by subsidence or is too minor to merit repair,
you have not actually `made a claim'. It would be arguable therefore
whether this would be a material fact; but it is generally safer to
mention it, rather than run the risk of being sued if the information
comes to light at a later date. If you are in any doubt, this is something
you should discuss with the solicitor handling your sale.
References
5. BRE Digest 318, Site investigation for low-rise building: desk studies, 1987.
9. BRE Digest 298, The in¯uence of trees on house foundations in clay soils, 1985.
13. Gardening Which, Trees near the house, Nov pp 359±361, 1989.
17. BRE Digest 344, Simple measuring and monitoring of movement in low-rise
buildings: part 2 ± settlement, heave and out-of-plumb, 1995.
18. BRE Digest 343, Simple measuring and monitoring of movement in low-rise
buildings: part 1 ± cracks, 1989.
20. J E Cheney, BRE Current Paper CP26/73, Techniques and equipment using
the surveyor's level for accurate measurement of building movement, 1973.
21. BRE Digest 386, Monitoring building and ground movement by precise
levelling, 1993.
22. Melville and Gordon, The repair and maintenance of houses. Estates Gazette
Ltd, 1988.
23. J E Cheney, 25 years' heave of a building constructed on clay, after tree removal,
Ground Engineering, vol 21, no 5, pp 13±27, 1988.
27. John Anstey, Party walls and what to do with them, 4th edition. The Royal
Institution of Chartered Surveyors, 1996.
28. DETR, The Party Wall etc. Act 1996: explanatory booklet. Crown Copyright
1997, product code 97 PBD 008.
Bearing capacity ± the maximum foundation load that can be applied to a soil (p. 151).
Bond ± the arrangement of bricks, blocks or stones within a masonry wall to a set
pattern to achieve a combination of adequate strength and attractive appearance (p. 39).
Crown lifting ± a method of pruning trees based on completely removing the lower
branches (p. 100).
Crown reduction ± a method of pruning trees based on reducing the size of the canopy
by shortening the length of branches (p. 100).
Crown thinning ± a method of pruning trees based on reducing the size of the canopy
by removing selected branches (p. 100).
144 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
Damp-proof course (dpc) ± a waterproof layer installed near the base of a masonry wall
to prevent upward movement of moisture (p. 54).
Footing ± a shallow concrete foundation placed under a wall or column to spread the
load over a larger area of ground (p. 33).
Ground beam ± a reinforced concrete beam used to support a wall and to transfer the
wall loading to piles or pads (p. 36).
Hand auger ± a boring tool used to excavate holes of between 50 mm and 250 mm
diameter in soil (p. 73).
Hardcore ± coarse inert granular material commonly used to ®ll hollows and to
provide a suitable base on which to cast a concrete ¯oor slab (p. 37).
Headers ± bricks laid across a wall so that they are end on to the outside face (p. 39).
Hogging ± de¯ection of a wall or beam resulting in the ends being lower than the
middle: opposite of sagging (Fig. 14).
Joist ± a beam, often timber, used to support ¯oorboards or ceilings (p. 17).
Lime mortar ± a bonding agent for masonry consisting of a mixture of sand and lime
(p. 39).
A HOMEOWNER'S GUIDE TO SUBSIDENCE AND HEAVE DAMAGE 145
Lintel ± a beam, usually of timber, concrete or steel or an arch of brick or stone, placed
above a door or window opening to support the weight of the wall above (p. 57).
Liquid limit ± a measure of the minimum moisture content at which a clay loses its
`plastic' properties and begins to ¯ow (p. 23) (c.f. plastic limit).
Mastic ± ¯exible sealant used to ®ll gaps where movement is anticipated, for example
between a window frame and surrounding brickwork (p. 58).
Mini-pile ± type of piling commonly used for underpinning, using driven or cast-in-place
piles with a diameter of between 65 mm and 150 mm (p. 113).
Needle ± a small beam installed under or through a wall as a support (p. 107).
Overconsolidated ± description of clay that has previously existed under far higher
con®ning stresses than at present (p. 23).
Peat ± soft, compressible dark brown or nearly black soil derived from vegetable
matter (p. 24).
Permeability ± a measure of the ease with which water is able to pass through the
ground (p. 22).
Pier ± a squat concrete or masonry column constructed below ground level and used
either to support concentrated point loads or to provide support for reinforced
concrete ground beams (p. 36).
Pile ± a relatively long slender foundation element used to transmit foundation loads
to a deep stratum, fabricated from timber, concrete or steel; piles may be installed by
driving or by casting concrete into a bored hole (p. 36).
Plastic limit ± a measure of the minimum moisture content at which a clay retains its
`plastic' properties and does not break up when moulded (p. 23) (c.f. liquid limit).
Plasticity index (or plasticity) ± the dierence in moisture content between the plastic
limit and the liquid limit for a given sample of clay (p. 24).
Pointing ± surface mortar in the joints and seams on the outside of a masonry wall
(p. 19).
Pollarding ± a method of tree management in which most of the branches are removed
and the main trunk is shortened (p. 100).
Portable water level ± a device for measuring the vertical distance between two points
(p. 70).
Sagging ± de¯ection of a wall or beam resulting in the middle being lower than the
ends: opposite of hogging (Fig. 15).
Short bored piles ± a type of foundation for houses or other low-rise buildings using
relatively short (usually less than 10 m long) piles constructed by boring a hole and
®lling it with concrete (p. 13).
Shrinkable clay ± a clay whose volume changes signi®cantly with variations in moisture
content (p. 22).
Silt ± a soil made up of particles with diameters of size intermediate between clay (less
than 0.002 mm) and sand (greater than 0.06 mm) (p. 22).
Stretchers ± bricks laid in the line of the wall so that the long side is visible on the face
of the wall (p. 39).
Strip footing ± a shallow concrete foundation cast in the bottom of a trench to provide
continuous support for a wall (p. 13).
Suction (or pore water suction) ± negative pressure within the water occupying the
spaces between soil particles, which can be caused by evaporation from the surface of
the soil and the extraction of moisture through the roots of vegetation and is
therefore commonly associated with the process of desiccation (p. 78).
Tie bars ± iron rods or steel straps used to support the brickwork on the end wall of
a terrace (p. 134).
Trench-®ll foundation ± type of foundation commonly used for houses and other low-
rise buildings, where a narrow concrete-®lled trench is used to provide continuous
support for a load-bearing wall (p. 34).
Trial pit ± a small excavation dug to inspect foundations and/or soil conditions; the
maximum depth for a hand dug trial pit is about 1.5 m, although depths of 3 m or
more are easily achievable with a mechanical excavator (p. 73).
Void former ± collapsible material used to form a space under cast-in-place concrete
¯oor slabs in order to protect the slab from the eects of swelling soil (p. 37).
Appendix B. Relevant
organisations
Arboricultural Association
Amp®eld House
Romsey
Hants SO15 9PA
Telephone: 01794 368717
Email: admin@trees.org.uk
www.trees.org.uk
New build
The easiest way to avoid subsidence damage is to make sure that the
foundations of new buildings are adequate in the ®rst place.
A certain amount of foundation movement is inevitable, since
ground will compress under the loads applied by the foundations;
equally, ground movements may occur as a result of processes that
are unconnected with the applied loads, such as changes in the moist-
ure content of shrinkable clays. It is generally both impractical and une-
conomic to design foundations to be totally static throughout the life of
the building. A successful foundation design will therefore ensure that
the level of movement transmitted to the superstructure is acceptable
and that distortions never exceed tolerable levels.
In many instances foundation design depends on the bearing capacity
of the underlying soil. For buildings founded on ®rm, shrinkable clays,
however, this is unlikely to be an important consideration, because
such clays are strong enough to support a low-rise building on a con-
ventional strip footing of, say, 400 mm width. Rather it is the depth of
the foundations that is critical for building on these soils ± they should
be deep enough not to be affected by changes in moisture content. The
effects of evaporation and moisture extraction by vegetation reduce
with depth. Where there are no trees or large shrubs, a foundation
depth of 0.9 m is generally adequate. But foundations designed to
this minimum requirement allow no provision for future tree planting.
In practice, many homeowners will, at some point, want to plant small
trees such as fruit trees near the house and so it may be prudent though
costly to provide foundations that are deeper than the recommended
minimum. A depth of 1.5 m, for example, would allow an apple or
pear tree to be safely planted at half its mature height (4 m to 6 m)
from the foundations even on highly shrinkable soil.
Clearly it may be necessary to use even deeper foundations where
there are existing trees on the site, especially if these are large
152 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?
Extensions
The foundation requirements for extensions are essentially the same as
those for new houses, with one important proviso. With new houses,
the distortions due to foundation movements are limited by the fact
A HOMEOWNER'S GUIDE TO SUBSIDENCE AND HEAVE DAMAGE 153
that the whole structure tends to be affected at the same time. In the
case of extensions, however, any initial settlement will show itself as
differential movement between the extension and the original house
and, where the foundation design of the extension is different from
that of the original house, the response of the two parts to dry weather
may be dramatically different. It follows that problems may arise
wherever the foundations for the extension are signi®cantly deeper
than those of the original house.
The foundations for any extensions will have to comply with the
Building Regulations (1991)29, or in the case of buildings in Scotland,
the Building Standards (Scotland) Regulations (1991)30. These regula-
tions require compliance with existing codes and guidance and, in
the case of building on shrinkable clay, this is likely to be interpreted
as meeting the recommendations of the NHBC Standards6. Conse-
quently the minimum foundation depth for an extension founded on
clay will be 0.9 m and may be substantially greater where there are
large trees in the garden. Equally, if the house is more than 30 years
old, it may have been built on foundations that are no more than
0.6 m deep and may in many cases be even shallower. In such cases,
the most important consideration is avoiding creating a `hard spot'
in the structure, where the foundation depth changes rapidly over a
short distance. There are three ways in which this can be achieved:
(i) underpin some of the foundations of the original house to the level
required for the extension and step the underpinning up progres-
sively away from the extension to avoid creating a `hard spot';
(ii) match the foundations of the extension to those of the original
house and step them down progressively away from the original
house to comply with the NHBC recommendations; or
(iii) build the extension entirely on deep foundations and provide a
movement joint between the two structures.
None of these options will guarantee a satisfactory result in all cases
and it will be necessary to consider the merits and cost of the three
options in each case before deciding on the appropriate foundation
design. Moreover, the interpretation of the Building Regulations
varies between Local Authorities and the three options may not be
accepted universally.
Superstructure details
In theory, quite a lot can be done to reduce the susceptibility of low-rise
buildings, such as houses, to damage from foundation movement. For
154 HAS YOUR HOUSE GOT CRACKS?