When dyeing is done?

Selection of dyeing method:

1 Stock dyeing in the fiber stage
2. Top dyeing in the combed sliver stage
3. Yarn dyeing after the fiber has been spun into yarn
4. Piece dyeing after the yarn has been constructed into fabrics.
5. Solution pigmenting/ dope dyeing before man-made fibers are extruded
through the spinnerets.
6. Garment dyeing after certain kinds of apparel are knitted.
7. Gel state, when fibers have begun to form but before they have been set.
8. Tow form, the mass filaments are formation but before cutting into staple
lengths. Parul Kapur
 1.STOCK DYEING
 Stock dyeing refers to the dyeing of fibres, or stock, before it is spun into yarn. It
is done by putting loose, un-spun fibres into large vats containing the dye bath,
which is less then heated to proper temperature.
The older method is that of removing the packed fiber from the bales and then
packing the stock in large vats & circulating dye liquor through the mass of fiber.

 The newer method is that of splitting the bale covering on all the sides, placing
the entire bale in a specially designed machine & then forcing the dye liquor
through the bale fiber.
This method saves time and labor cost.
In this process the colour is well penetrated into the fiber and does not crock
readily.
Stock dyed fibers does not spin as readily as un-dyed fiber because it loses some
of its flexibility, but lubricants added in the final rinsing overcome most of this
difficulty.
From 500 to 3000 pounds (227 to 1364 kilograms) of fiber are dyed at one time,
and the average is about 1000 pounds (454 kilograms).Stock dyeing is used
mostly in woollen materials when heather like colour effects are desired.

2.TOP DYEING
Top dyeing is also the dyeing of fiber before it is spun into yarn and serves the
same purpose as stock dyeing-that is, to produce soft,heather like colour effects.
The term top refers to fibers of wool from which shorter fibers have been
removed. Top is thus the selected long fibers that are used to spin worsted
yarn.The top in the form of sliver is dyed and then blended with other colours of
dyed top to produce desired blended heather shades.

Typical dyed fabrics:

Chevoit ,covert ,molten tweed.

ADVANTAGES
Stock and top dyeing usually results in excellent penetration of the dye into the
fibre and eveness of the colour throughout.
The fabrics have soft, heather like colouration.
Easiest dye penetration.
DISADVANTAGES
These forms of dyeing is the most costly method for dyeing because the level of
production is relatively low.
Also there is 10-15% waste of dyed fibres through subsequent manufacturing of
yarn.
Dyeing long before season begins carries the risk of fashion changing.
High percentage of fibre loss from dyeing and later in yarn spinning

3. YARN DYEING
Yarn dyeing is the dyeing of the yarns before they have been woven or knitted into fabrics.
Yarn dyeing is used to create interesting checks, stripes and plaids with different-colored
yarns in the weaving process. In yarn dyeing, dyestuff penetrates the fibres in the core of the
yarn.

yarn-dyed fabrics are usually deeper and richer in color. These fabrics intended for
laundering must be quite colorfast, or bleeding could occur. The primary reason for dyeing
in the yarn form is to create interesting checks, stripes, and plaids with different-colored
yarns in the weaving process. Chambrays, for example are usually woven with a colored
warp and white filling. Other combinations of different-colored yarns are checked
gingham, shepherds check, plaid, seersucker, and heater mixtures.

Advantages
Used for fabrics with stripes, checks, plaids,and other multi colored patterns
Disadvantages
Second most costly method.
Dyeing before season beginscarries the risk of fashionchanging, but less than for
stock dyeing.
Chambray, gingham, brocade, jacquard knits

There are many forms of yarn dyeing-

 Skein (Hank) Dyeing,

  Package Dyeing,
 Warp-beam Dyeing,
 Space Dyeing

 Skein (Hank) Dyeing

Skein dyeing consists of immersing large, loosely wound hanks (skeins) of yarn hung into
dye vats that are especially designed for this purpose. The colour penetration is the
best . Soft, lofty yarns, such as handknitted yarns are usually skein dyed. Skein dyeing is
the most costly yarn-dye method.

 PACKAGE DYEING

In package dyeing the yarn is wound on a small perforated spool or tube called a package.
Many spools are fit into the dyeing machine in which the flow of the dye bath alternates
from the center to the outside, and then from the outside to the center of the package.
Package dyed yarns do not retain the softness and loftiness. They are very widely used for
most types of yarns that are found in knitted and woven fabrics. The main reason for the
use of this dyeing is for manufacture of plaids,stripes,checks and other multicoloured
designs.
The yarn dyeing is less costly than stock or top dyeing. Yarn dyeing leads to excellent
penetration of dye into the fibre and thus produces a great clarity of colour. Important yarn
dyed fabrics are gingham, madras, brocade and multicoloured weft knits.

 Warp Beam Dyeing

Beam dyeing is the much larger version of package dyeing. An entire warp beam is wound
on to a perforated cylinder, which is then placed in the beam dyeing machine, where the
flow of the dye bath alternate as in the package dyeing. Beam dyeing is more economical
than skein or package dyeing, but it is only used in the manufacture of woven fabrics where
an entire warp beam is dyed. Knitted fabrics, which are mostly produced from the cones of
the yarn, are not adaptable to beam dyeing.
 Space dyeing- space-dyed means the yarn is dyed at intervals along its length.
One procedure is knit-deknit, in which the yarn is knitted into a fabric, dyed
and then subsequently deknitted. The dye penetrates the loops of the yarn
 but since it does not readily penetrate the areas of the yarn where it crosses
itself, alternating dyed and undyed spaces appear.

4. PIECE DYEING
The dyeing of cloth after it is being woven or knitted is known as piece dyeing. Itis the most
common method of dyeing used. The various methods used for this type of dyeing include
jet dyeing. Jig dyeing, pad dyeing and beam dyeing.

When heavy or densely woven fabrics or tightly twisted yarn fabrics are piece
dyed sometimes the dye does not penetrate into the centre of the yarn
material. The condition known simply as poor penetration, leaves the fibers in
the center of the yarn or at the fabric interlacing, lightly colored or un-dyed. It
can be recognized by taking some yarns out of the fabric, untwisting them and
observing the non-uniform color of fabers in the twisted yarn. Fabrics such as
uniform clothing, children's wear, upholstery fabrics, and other fabrics subjected
to hard used take on a faded appearance at points of wear and white un-dyed
fibers shift towards the fabric surface.

Advantages

Least costly stage fordyeing of fabrics. Adaptable to all fabrics-woven and knitted.Dyeing is
close tofashion seasons; minimalcolor risk

Limitations:

Limited to solid colors

Typical dyed fabrics:

Batiste, broad cloth, challis ,corduroy, satin.

 JET DYEING
In the jet dying process, the fabric being dyed is circulated in a rope form
through a closed-system dyeing machine on a jet flow of the dye bath. The
fabric is moved by the fast moving dye bath.
Since no pressure and little tension occurs with the material, even delicate
fabrics can be dyed using this process. Most jet dyeing machines can be
pressurized and are capable of achieving dyeing temperatures exceeding the
boiling point of water.
 JIG DYEING
The jig dyeing process involves treating fabric in an open width.
Fabric is not immersed in a dye bath, but rather is passed through a stationery
dye bath.
Upon completion of the first pass, the fabric reverses and is passed again
through the dye bath. To produce darker colours the fabric must pass through
the dyebath more times than when a lighter shade is desired.

 PAD DYEING
Pad dyeing is accomplished with a machine called a dye pad. Its appearance
somewhat resembles a giant clothes wringer.
Fabric in open width first passes through the dye bath, and then through the
rollers where the dye solution issqueezed into the fabric.

 BEAM DYEING
Beam dyeing for piece dyeing is practically identical to beam dyeing used for
yarns.
Fabric is wound on to a perforated cylinder where the dye bath is forced
through the fabric layers. The fabric remains stationary.

The two piece dyeing methods for blended fabrics are :

CROSS DYEING
Yarn, fabric or even garment made with two or more generic fiber types
“Blends” having different dyeing qualities is dyed a single dye bath containing
different classes of dyes.
If different fibers are blended in the same yarn a Heather-like effect is obtained.
Different fiber content yarns used in fabric construction can obtain plaids,
stripes and checks.
Cross dyeing is a type of dyeing in which a yarn, a fabric, or even a garment made with two
or more genetic fibres types having different dye affinities is dyed in a single bath containing
two different class of dyes. Each class of dye colors only one type of the fibre. Two different
colors can be dyed in one bath or either type of fibre may be dyed,leaving the other one
white.If different fibres are blended in the same yarn, a stock-dyed effect can be obtained. If
yarns of one kind of fibre and yarns of another kind of fibres are used in the warp direction,
vertical stripes can be produced after dyeing. A plaid effect can be produced by weaving
yarns of different kinds of fibre both in warp and filling directions and then dyeing the fabric
in single bath with a mixture of two kinds of dyes.
Cross dyeing is the more economical and quicker way to produce the same effects obtained
by other methods. The effects achieved by expensive stock dyeing method can be replicated
easily by this cross dyeing method.

UNION DYEING
It means achieving single solid color on blended fabrics. Union dyeing is same as like
cross dyeing, except that instead of multi color effects, one solid color is produced. The dyer
accomplishes this by using two or more classes of dye, each of the same color. For example,
a fabric composed of rayon and acetate can be dyed by a solid green color by using a direct
dye for rayon and disperse dye for acetate. Continuous dyeing machineries are used
for large fabric lots. This process includes compartments of pre-treatment,
padder dyeing, after treatment, washing and rinsing.

5.GARMENT DYEING
Garment dyeing is the dyeing of completed garments. The types of apparel that
can be dyed are mostly non tailored and simpler forms, such as sweaters, sweat-
shirts, T-shirts, hosiery, and pantyhose. The effect on sizing , threads, zippers
and snaps must be considered.
Tailored items, such as suits or dresses, cannot bedyed as garments because the
difference in shrinkage of the various components and linings distort and
misshape the article. All fabric used in one garment must come from the same
lot of fabric.
Garment dyeing is done by placing a suitable number of garments (usually
about24 sweaters or the equivalent, depending on weight) into a large nylon net
bag.The garments are loosely packed.
From 10 to 50 of the bags are placed in largetubs containing the dye bath and
are kept agitated by a motor-driven paddle in the dye tub. The machine is
appropriately called a paddle dyer.

In case of garment dyeing, in case of the post finishing process, reactive dyes
can be used provided the garments so finished are already subjected during
finishing with certain nitrogen containing additives.These additives used during
finishing render the dyeability to the finished garment and upto about
85%dyeability can be regained even after finishing the garment at the
intermediate level .This phenomenon of additives improving the finished goods
dyeability works similar to process of Cationisation and requires almost similar
conditions asused in dyeing of cationised cotton.

Garment dyeing.

FEATURES AND ADVANTAGES

Less fashion risk, material need not be dyed until shortly before the actual sale
of the merchandise;
Choice of colours closet to fashion season.
Elimination of material (yarn and fabric) waste from prior processing.

LIMITATIONS AND DISADVANTAGES

Limited to garments of simple construction.

 the fact that each fabric and fiber type responds differently to the dye also
produces a “deconstructed” effect.
 For example: a more densely woven fabric absorbs the color less intensely
than a more open weave, the polyester stitching used for a cotton garment
does not absorb any dye color, producing a contrast color stitch etc.
 the difficulty in achieving a very tailored look due to difficulties in precisely
calculating shrinkage rates

 high research and prototyping costs in order to understand how fabrics will
behave in production
TYPICAL DYED FABRICS
Hoisery
Pantyhose
Sweaters
T-shirts etc.

9. WHAT IS DOPE DYEING?

Dope dyeing is also known as solution dyeing or spun dyeing, which is the
addition of pigments or insoluble dyes to the spinning solution before the
solution is extruded through spinneret. In other words , it is the incorporation of
colourant into the spinning process.
WHY DOPE DYEING
Wet processing, a common step used in the textiles industry, has the potential
to cause a significant impact on the environment and on human health. This is
because large amounts of chemicals and dyes are used in wet processing,
resulting in effluents with a complex chemical composition. The cellulosic
textiles industry consumes a large quantity of water in wet processing
operations like desizing, scouring, mercerising, bleaching and dyeing during
conversion of fibre to fabric.

Stage of Dyeing Features and Advantages Limitations and Disadvantages Typical Dyed Fabrics

Stock and top Fabrics have soft, heather Most costly dyeing method. Chevoit covert
like coloration. Easiest dye Dyeing long before molten tweed.
penetration seasonbegins carries the risk
of fashionchanging. High
percentage of fibre loss from
dyeing and laterin yarn
spinning
yarn Used for fabrics with Second most costly method. Chambray, gingham,
stripes, checks, plaids,and Dyeing before season brocade, jacquard
other multi beginscarries the risk of knits
coloredpatterns fashionchanging, but less than
 for stock dyeing

piece Least costly stage fordyeing Limited to solid colors Batiste broad cloth
of fabrics.Adaptable to all challis corduroy satin.
fabrics-woven and
knitted.Dyeing is close
tofashion seasons;
minimalcolor risk
garment Choice of colors closestto Limited to garments of Hosierypanty
fashion season.Elimination simpleconstruction hosesweaters t-
of material(yarn and fabric) shirts
wastefrom prior
processing.

COTTON

1. Cotton yarn dyeing

It is dyed in two forms

–Package or cone dyeing –

–Hank dyeing

The common dyeing process of cotton yarn with reactive dyes at package form
is as follows:

1. The raw yarn is wound on a spring tube to achieve a package suitable for
dye penetration.
 2. These softened packages are loaded on a dyeing carrier's spindle one on
another.
3. The packages are pressed up to a desired height to achieve suitable
density of packing.
4. The carrier is loaded on the dyeing machine and the yarn is dyed.
5. dye is forced outward from the rods under pressure through the spools
and then back to the packages.
6. After dyeing, the packages are unloaded from the carrier into a trolley.
7. Now the trolley is taken to hydro extractor where water is removed.
8. The packages are hydro extracted to remove the maximum amount of
water leaving the desired color into raw yarn.
9. The packages are then dried to achieve the final dyed package.
After this process, the dyed yarn packages are packed and delivered.

B. HANK DYEING : Process sequence for yarn dyeing in hank form:

 Singeing(for mercerized cotton yarns)
 Reeling
 Dyeing
 Hydro extraction or squeezing
 Drying
 Hank to cone winding
2. garment dyeing

In garment dyeing cotton garments are dyed using direct dyes, reactive dyes,
and vat dyes. The liquor ratio is kept very high at 1:30 to 1:40. This high liquor is
required for the free movement of the goods. Then these goods can be packed
in polyester or polypropylene bags. However, the penetration of the dye
solution may not be completely passed to the fibers such as between the seams,
buttons, zippers etc. Normally, it is used for lingerie, socks, sweater dyeing etc.

WOOL

Top dyeing: Tops means wool sliver made into ball with a centre hole which
goes into the individual perforated spindle of top carrier. The weight of the wool
tops varies from 7 to 8 kg .

YARN DYEING:

Package dyeing and hank dyeing

Package dyeing: In worsted units the wool are needed in small quantities. In
such case yarn dyeing is preferred rather than top dyeing.

Hank dyeing :it is done mainly for carpet wool.it is done cabinet dyeing machine.
Wool hanks are dyed at 98degC to 100 degC.the weight of wool hanks ranging
from 100 gms to 200 gms.cabinet dyeing machine looks like steel almirah with
door opened. Inside the vessel there are steel rods where the wool hanks are
hanged and put inside. Then the dyeing takes place.

FABRIC DYEING:

For wool fabric dyeing is done in two ways jet dyeing and beam dyeing.
POLYESTER

1.poleyseter fabric dyeing

Fabric is dyed in jet or beam dyeing machine .it is dyed at 130deg C at a pH of

4.5 to 5.prior to dyeing a good scouring treatment is done to remove any
knitting oils or stains

2.polyester yarn dyeing :

It is done in two ways

:cone or package dyeing

:hank dyeing

Polyester top dyeing

Polyester is dyed in top form for wrostd spinning mills. The biggest top dyeing
unit in india is at Raymond.the tops are put into perforated cylindrical
carrier.the top carrier then goes into HTHP dyeing machine and dyed at
130degC. After dyeing the tops are fed into the hydroextractor where maximum
water is removed.then the tops are fed into radio radio frequency dryer or back
washer.the dyed polyester tops are blended with dyed viscous topsand dyed
wool tops to make yarn in worsted spinning system.