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+ANDREW McCONNELL’S
TURKISH FEAST LAMB
+ WICKED SPICED DESSERTS
+ TOBIE PUTTOCK’S
PLANT-BASED RECIPES
SHANK
+ SOUTH AFRICA:
BEYOND SAFARIS
+CLAYTON WELLS’ SINGAPORE
CURRY
+ CURRIES FROM AROUND THE WORLD
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SAVOUR ESCAPE @deliciousAUS
23 Hand picked 120 Global flavours
Chef Adam Wolfers puts a Jewish Epic adventure at every turn on an
spin on seasonal eating. African trip to three iconic locations. delicious.com.au
52 Entertaining 128 Food destinations For more delicious. content.
Tobie Puttock and David Abela Seven food and travel insiders
celebrate their love of vegetables. reveal their top international picks. ON THE COVER
62 Curries 136 Check in Lamb shank, turmeric, kale
Whether a chilli fiend or mellow Sydney’s hippest new hotel rolls out & chickpea curry (recipe p 11)
fellow, we’ve got a curry for you. a movie star welcome to guests. Recipe Phoebe Wood
70 Andrew McConnell 138 Locavore Photography Brett Stevens &
Inspired by a trip to Istanbul, Majestic Marlborough more than Chris Court
Andrew serves up Turkish delights. lives up to its reputation. Styling Kirsten Jenkins
83 Jamie Oliver Merchandising Emmaly Stewart
The superstar chef explores Spain’s
love affair with the capsicum. REGULARS THE DELICIOUS. TEST KITCHEN USES:
90 Matt Preston 8 Ed’s letter
Our MasterChef maestro brings you 12 Talk to us
the world’s best one-tray bakes. 13 Menus
100 Extract 16 Out & about
Skye McAlpine’s Venetian secrets. 18 delicious. insider OFFICIAL TEST KITCHEN SUPPLIERS:
Our meat is supplied by Vic’s Meat (vicsmeat.
108 On trend All the action from the Flinders com.au). Our equipment is provided by Sheldon
Spice up your dessert options. Island Food and Crayfish Festival. & Hammond (sheldonandhammond.com.au)
6 delicious.com.au
royaldoulton.com.au #royaldoulton
COVER RECIPE.
SUPERFOOD CURRY
This is one of your delicious. favourites – so we’ve given the recipe a ‘global’ twist for this
issue and added some of the hottest trending spices and ingredients of the year. When
we tasted it, we fell in love, and all agreed we had to make it this month’s cover recipe.
RECIPE PHOEBE WOOD PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS +
Begin this recipe 3 hours ahead. 800ml coconut milk tongs and set aside.
4 cups (1L) chicken stock Reduce heat to medium-low and
2 tbs coconut oil 400g can chickpeas, rinsed, drained add onion, garlic and ginger, and cook,
4 Frenched lamb shanks 1 bunch broccolini, chopped stirring, for 5 minutes or until softened.
1 onion, finely chopped 1 bunch kale, stalks removed, Return lamb to pan with spices, coconut
2 garlic cloves, chopped finely chopped milk and stock, and simmer gently for
5cm piece (25g) ginger, chopped Baby shiso leaves, to serve 3 hours or until lamb is tender. Add
2 tsp each mild curry powder, chilli chickpeas, broccolini and kale, and
powder, ground turmeric, ground Heat the oil in a large cast-iron pan cook for a further 4 minutes or until
coriander seeds, fennel seeds over medium-high heat. Season lamb tender. Season.
and cumin and cook, turning, for 8 minutes or Serve topped with baby shiso.
delicious.com.au 11
INBOX.
TO US
chicken terrine (Kitchen Diary, March 2011, p 63) and the slow-
APRIL’S MOST-LIKED POST roasted pork belly with the autumn salad (Valli’s Kitchen Diary,
April 2012, p 72) – never fails! Carolyn Hunt
#MAKEITDELICIOUS
signal the start of – and not just for the recipes. My gosh, I laughed out loud reading
soup season. And while
the punny headings – ‘It’s All Gouda’, ‘Mince Charming’ (May 2018).
temperatures around most
of Australia may currently Not only were the recipes amazing, the titles – haha! Thank you for
seem more summer bringing a consistently amazing mag out each month – the family
appropriate, when the has requested I make the haloumi and oregano bechamel
weather finally cools you can (Vegetarian, p 71) every time I need a white sauce, and the roast
seek comfort in a bubbling
lemon chicken and potatoes (Australian Flavours, p 104) is
pot of soupy goodness.
Like this baked sweet potato earmarked for our Sunday roast. Karyn Reimann
soup with blue cheese toast from @charliebmcd.
Recipe in the April issue. TOUGH TASK: The time has come to sort out which
Photo: @chriscourt Styling: @kirstenljenkins delicious. issues I’m going to keep and which to send elsewhere.
I have every issue since the first one with Jamie’s best ever curry,
which I still make. Not an easy job ahead. Eileen Morton
SCOTTISH CHARM: I was so excited to see Scotland’s
NC500 in the April 2018 (Global Flavours, p 126) issue. My partner
and I were there only a few months ago marvelling at the scenery ON THE COVER
and the food! We were thrilled to see Kylesku (wonderful lunch If you love one of our covers and have
there), Smoo Cave and Cocoa Mountain (also soothed the chill wind wanted to try out the recipe, now’s
for us) and noted a whole lot of new places to see, stay and eat the time to get cooking! Post a pic
at when (not if) we return. Thanks delicious.! Tanya Henshaw of your creation on Instagram and
tag @deliciousaus for your chance
EASTER FAVOURITES: Easter Sunday long lunch has to be our ‘photo of the month’ in
become a tradition at our house, hosting our friends who are our the next issue!
other family. My go-to recipes every March/April are the pork and
delicious. reserves the right to edit reader letters, posts and comments.
In lieu of missing Easter with the family (as I needed to be overseas for work), I took away the Easter
(April 2018) edition of delicious. and read it cover to cover over numerous flights. I soon came up
chermoula roasted veg salad from ‘Salad Days’ (Entertaining, from p 52), and the Earl Grey poached
pears (Jamie Oliver, p 103) proved a successful and tasty vegetarian dinner for friends. I also cooked
a belated Easter lunch for my family – creating the plum and cider pot roast duck (Meat Market, p
46) and Jamie Oliver’s pretty orchard tart (p 100) for dessert, much to everyone’s delight (it only
required minor tweaking to cater for my gluten-free sister). Thank you to the delicious. team for such
an engaging edition that kept me entertained whilst I was away, and for providing such inspiration
for a very special Easter lunch – it didn’t even matter that it was a week late! Ceinwen Mackay
ED’S NOTE: Congratulations, Ceinwen! You’ve won a Vitamix Ascent A2500i High-Performance
Blender, valued at $1195. Combining sleek design with power and precision, this revolutionary
blender is the first with wireless connectivity for the ultimate versatility.
12 delicious.com.au
JUNE
MENUS
SPICED DEL IGH TS GLO BA L FL AVO U RS W IN T ER WA N D ERLUS T
Spiced cauliflower salad, p 74 Onion and olive pissaladiere with Fried eggs with sucuk, p 77
Billy Button 2x2 Riesling Pinot Blanc 2016 ‘A Love Supreme’, p 21 Best’s Foudre Ferment Riesling 2017
~ ~ (Great Western, Victoria)
Massaman lamb leg curry with Indian aloo gobi, p 94 ~
quickled vegetables, p 66 ~ Salmon with lime, paprika, cumin
Domaine Huet Vouvray ‘Topfengolatsche’, cream cheese, and coriander seeds, p 60
Demi Sec Le Mont 2016 rhubarb, p 29 Calabria Private Bin Montepulciano 2016
~ (Riverina, NSW)
MIKE BENNIE IS ALSO CO-OWNER OF A SYDNEY-BASED WINE AND LIQUOR RETAIL BUSINESS
delicious.com.au 13
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VIC 3006
Director of Melbourne’s Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, travel
through his career in the most delicious way possible. WHEN 12pm to 3.30pm,
For the first time outside the UK, Ashley and his team will Friday, June 29
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MENU A celebration of Ashley Palmer-Watts’ career
(White Chocolate and Caviar), through to the present with
with paired wines selected by The Wine Society
PRICE $199
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Enquiries : email events@dinnerbyheston.com.au
MENU SUBJECT TO CHANGE
16 delicious.com.au
LET’S
FIGHT
Out&
About
1
WALLABY.” at the Flinders Island Food
and Crayfish Festival. 8
delicious. food director
Phoebe Wood joined
some of the industry’s
best for a weekend of
7
straight-from-nature fare.
1. The breathtaking beauty of
Flinders Island was the perfect
backdrop for the inaugural festival.
2. From left: Vladimir Panevin, from
Etties’ in Hobart; Three Blue Ducks’
2
Biota Dining in the NSW Southern
3 Highlands, test their knife skills.
3. Mark helps to prepare the freshly
caught crayfish. 4 & 5. Oakridge
4 5
18 delicious.com.au
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PRODUCE AWARDS.
B E H I N D E V E RY G R E AT C H E F I S A
GREAT PRODUCER
Queensland state judge Jake Nicolson puts last year’s Produce Awards ‘From the Dairy’ winner,
Cedar Street Cheeserie’s A Love Supreme, centre stage in his moreish pissaladiere.
THE PRODUCER
TREVOR HART
CEDAR STREET CHEESERIE
delicious.com.au 21
THE DINNER PARTY
VISIT US AT
HAND PICKED.
HAND
PICKED
MERCHANDISING EMMALY STEWART
delicious.com.au 23
“MY GRANDMOTHER ALWAYS
SAID IT HAS TO BE JUST THE
SOUP AND THE MATZO BALL,
THAT’S IT. DO NOT FANCY IT
UP WITH ANYTHING ELSE.”
delicious.com.au 25
MATZO BALL SOUP Bring a saucepan of salted water to in batches, shallow-fry parsnips, turning
SERVES 6-8 the boil. Add matzo balls, reduce to a halfway, for 3 minutes or until golden.
Begin this recipe 1 day ahead. simmer and cook, stirring halfway, for Remove with a slotted spoon and drain
30 minutes. Remove from heat and stand on paper towel.
2.5kg each chicken wings and frames for 30 minutes to finish cooking. Transfer dressing to a serving bowl and
2 each onions, carrots and celery To serve, place 2 matzo balls in each top with combined herbs and gherkin.
stalks, chopped serving bowl, top with soup and drizzle Place parsnip schnitzels on a serving
1 garlic bulb, halved with extra reserved warmed schmaltz. plate. Serve with lemon wedges
2cm piece (10g) ginger
10g kombu (dried seaweed – from PARSNIP SCHNITZEL ROASTED DUSKY FLATHEAD,
Asian food shops) SERVES 4 KOSHER XO, FLATBREAD
1 bay leaf SERVES 4
2 tbs black peppercorns 6 large parsnips, peeled,
halved lengthways 2 whole flathead, cleaned
MATZO BALLS 3 garlic cloves, crushed 1 lemon, thinly sliced, plus juice
1 tsp finely grated ginger 1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil of 1 lemon
1 egg, plus 1 eggwhite 300g panko breadcrumbs 1 tbs extra virgin olive oil
11/3 cups (190g) coarse matzo meal 21/2 tbs smoked paprika 2 tbs chopped chives
(from selected supermarkets) 600ml buttermilk 100ml vegetable stock
12 /3 cups (250g) plain flour
Preheat the oven to 220°C. Grease a Sunflower oil, to shallow-fry KOSHER XO (SUBSTITUTE GOOD-QUALITY
baking tray and line with baking paper. Chervil, dill, flat-leaf parsley sprigs, STORE-BOUGHT XO SAUCE – THOUGH THIS
Place chicken wings on prepared tray thinly sliced gherkin and lemon IS OFTEN NON-KOSHER)
and roast for 55 minutes or until golden. wedges, to serve 20g dried anchovies
Meanwhile, place chicken frames in a 1/4 cup (60ml) sunflower oil
large saucepan, cover with water and bring YOGHURT DRESSING 2 eschalots, finely chopped
to the boil. Drain, reserving chicken. Place 160g Greek yoghurt 10 garlic cloves, finely chopped
onion, carrot, celery, garlic, ginger, kombu, 1 eschalot, finely chopped 6 long red chillies, finely chopped
bay leaf, peppercorns, chicken wings and 1 tsp finely chopped baby capers 4 fresh anchovies, finely chopped
frames, and 11/2 tbs salt flakes in the pan 1/2 tsp hot English mustard (substitute 4 sardine fillets)
and cover with water (split between 2 pans 1/2 small garlic clove, crushed 2 tbs shio koji (Japanese seasoning –
if needed). Bring to the boil, reduce to 1 tsp lemon juice optional, from Asian food shops)
a very low simmer and cook for 4-6 hours 30g beef jerky, finely chopped
to infuse. Strain through a fine sieve into a Preheat the oven to 180°C. 40g brown sugar
large bowl, discarding solids. Stand stock Toss parsnip, garlic and oil in a bowl.
for 1 hour to cool, then chill overnight. Transfer parsnip mixture to a large piece FLATBREAD
Remove surface fat (‘schmaltz’) and reserve of foil, fold to enclose and place on a 50g caster sugar
for matzo balls (you will need 90g, plus baking tray. Roast for 50 minutes or until 1 tsp dried yeast
extra to serve). The next day, bring stock parsnip is tender. Using tongs, transfer 500g strong (baker’s) flour
to the boil in a saucepan and cook for to a heatproof tray to cool. Using a small, 160g unsalted butter,
20-30 minutes or until reduced by sharp knife, carefully remove and discard plus extra to grease
one-third. Set aside. cores from cooled parsnip.
For the matzo balls, combine reserved Meanwhile, for the dressing, whisk all For the kosher XO, place anchovies in a
schmaltz, ginger, 2 tsp salt flakes, 1/4 tsp ingredients in a bowl until combined. Chill. heatproof bowl, cover with boiling water
freshly ground black pepper and 90ml To make the crumb coating, combine and stand for 2 hours. Drain and finely
water in a bowl. Stir through egg and breadcrumbs, paprika and 11/2 tsp salt chop. Heat oil in a frypan over medium-
eggwhite. Place matzo meal in a second flakes in a shallow bowl. high heat. Add eschalot, garlic and
bowl, add schmaltz mixture and stir to Place buttermilk and flour in separate chilli, and cook, stirring occasionally, for
combine. Cover and rest for 5 minutes shallow bowls. Dust parsnip in flour and 6-8 minutes or until softened. Reduce heat
only (oversoaking will change texture). Roll shake off excess. Dip in buttermilk, then to low, add anchovies, shio koji, if using,
1 heaped tablespoon of matzo mixture press into crumbs. Transfer to a tray. and jerky, and cook, stirring regularly, for
into a ball, place on a tray and repeat with Fill a frypan with 1cm sunflower oil and 30 minutes or until reduced slightly. Stir
remaining mixture. place over medium-high heat. When hot, through sugar. Chill until needed.
26 delicious.com.au
Parsnip schnitzel
HAND PICKED.
‘Topfengolatsche’,
cream cheese,
rhubarb
MARKET BASKET
• PARSNIP is the ultimate winter root vegetable, the
creamy white flesh becoming sweeter during cold
seasons. Opt for smaller parsnips when buying – large
ones are prone to a woody centre.
• RHUBARB, though technically a vegetable, is at its
best when incorporated into something sweet. The
naturally tart stalks can be frozen for year-round use.
• CELERY is high in fibre and packed with anti-
inflammatory properties. All parts of the distinctively
flavoured plant can be used – leaves, stalks and seeds.
Meanwhile, for the flatbread, in the bowl
of a stand mixer fitted with the hook
attachment, combine sugar, yeast and
320ml warm water, cover and stand in a
warm place for 10 minutes or until frothy.
Add flour and 1 tsp salt flakes, and knead
for 10 minutes. Transfer to a greased bowl,
cover and stand in a warm place for 1 hour
or until doubled in size. Divide into 8 equal
pieces and roll into balls. Transfer to a tray,
cover with a clean tea towel and stand for
30 minutes. On a buttered surface, stretch
a piece of dough to form a 26cm x 32cm
GRAN DESIGN
rectangle. Fold in half lengthways and
scrunch long edges together into a strip.
Twist into a flat spiral and cover with plastic
wrap. Repeat with remaining dough and
stand for 30 minutes. dam Wolfers’ flavoursome food has been variously described as Eastern
Heat 20g butter in a frypan over
medium-low heat. Working with 1 piece at
a time, on a buttered surface, press dough
A European, Hungarian Jewish and new-school Jewish. Yet when asked to
explain its diverse appeal, the chef points instead to his biggest culinary
inspiration: his grandmother. “She was from Vienna and her father was a chef who
into a 22cm round. Using a wide spatula, owned a kosher restaurant serving Ashkenazi Jewish food in the early 1900s,” he
carefully transfer to pan and cook for says. Her enduring recipes, bequeathed over generations, form the basis of Wolfers’
2 minutes each side or until golden. approach. Working with chefs the stature of Peter Doyle, Mark Best and Brent
Transfer to a tray and repeat with Savage has helped him to refine them even further. “Using all these influences,
remaining dough and butter. Cover techniques and memories, I’ve developed an exciting way of cooking with a focus
to keep warm. on my heritage,” he says. His parsnip schnitzel recipe is a delightful twist on the
Preheat the oven to 200°C. Line an meat dish, while roasted flathead with ‘kosher XO’ nods cleverly to Chinese cuisine.
ovenproof wire rack with baking paper and But don’t even think about modifying matzo ball soup. “My grandmother always
place over a baking tray. Place flathead said it has to be just the soup and the matzo ball, that’s it. Do not fancy it up with
on prepared tray, place lemon slices anything else. The matzo ball has to be light and fluffy, and the soup has to be full
in fish cavity and drizzle with oil. Roast of flavour and clear.” Unsurprisingly given his singular style, Wolfers is an in-demand
for 17 minutes or until cooked through. chef, with a string of pop-up restaurants under the Ètelek banner in Sydney,
Meanwhile, heat 1/2 cup (100g) XO, Melbourne and Canberra. “Expect to see exciting things on the horizon,” he says.
lemon juice, chives and stock in a frypan
over high heat and stir until hot. @a.wolfers
delicious.com.au 29
NEXT IN THE SERIES
BEAUTY SALON
SALON DE CO., the new restaurant at Ovolo Inchcolm in
Brisbane, casts a spell. The beguiling space combines saturated
colours, painterly walls and numerous seating options. Hassell
Studio collaborated with stylist Anna Roberts and art curator
Lisa Fehily to execute the hotel’s Art Deco-inspired public spaces.
Chef Anthony Hales is similarly adventurous when it comes to the
menu. Signature dishes include Jerusalem artichoke with lemon
and cultured cream, and aged duck with kohlrabi and umeboshi.
INSIDER NEWS
Hot tables, lust-have products, the latest news, trends & more.
Edited by George Epaminondas
@georgeepam
TA B L E TA L K
2
Chinese chain QUANJUDE (above) reportedly
sells more than three million Peking roast
ducks a year at its many outlets in Shanghai,
Toronto, Melbourne and beyond. The company, TRENDING NOW
which traces its origins back more than 150 years,
recently arrived in Sydney with its impeccable
IGLOOS
crisp-skinned birds. Guests at the expansive World
Square eatery can also feast on duck pancakes, The toastiest and toniest digs this
winter? One of the waterside igloo bars
duck spring rolls and duck buns, as well as other at Pier One Sydney Harbour offering
Northern Chinese specialties. cocktails,
3
Located in the heritage-listed Old Mineral canapes and
1
MATILDA 159 DOMAIN (above) is Scott Pickett’s
latest outing in Melbourne. As with anything the House, WALTER’S STEAKHOUSE (above right) majestic views.
The transparent
chef behind ESP and Saint Crispin puts his mind is a sizzling new player in Brisbane with domes are
to, it’s a polished affair. More casual than his other cherry-red booths, marble-topped tables and kitted out with
restaurants, Matilda is devoted to cooking over a neo-classic cocktails. Its trademark dish is a cosy furnishings,
wood fire – everything from Blackmore wagyu to grain-fed, dry-aged porterhouse. The menu includes fireplaces and
even a hot-tub.
Macedon duck. The new venture, in South Yarra’s other clubby dishes such as oysters Rockefeller, Book suite 216
United Places hotel, is arrayed with custom lighting, caesar salad, and creamed spinach. Sidle up to the for your own
timber tables and an artwork by Bill Henson. handsome bar for aperitifs like a Calvados Highball. private version.
DELICIOUS.COM.AU Go online for weekly restaurant news and reviews from our team of critics and reviewers.
delicious.com.au 31
INSIDER.
FUTURE
PROOF
It’s thirsty work exploring the
region leading Mexico’s wine
revival, says Shannon Harley.
WHEN YOU THINK of
Mexico’s greatest exports,
F TOV E R
LE wine is rarely in the mix with
tequila, tacos, mezcal and
Rhubarb margaritas. However, the
country’s lesser-celebrated
wine-making culture is experiencing
a modern-day renaissance thanks to a
new wave of producers and creatives.
Today, wineries exist in several Mexican
states, including Sonora, Coahuila and
Cornersmith co-owner Alex Elliott-Howery is famed for her Baja California. The latter is where you’ll
food-saving ways, as she proves with this easy rhubarb relish. find Valle de Guadalupe, ground zero for
fine-wine production and the country’s
THIS IS MY RHUBARB and wine destination du jour.
red onion relish (or rubbish Today’s renaissance can be traced to
relish as I call it at home). brothers Hugo and Alejandro D’Acosta, two
Making chutneys and visionaries instrumental in developing Valle
relishes is a great way to use de Guadalupe as a major wine hub. In 2004,
up your extra fruit and vegetables, and this French-trained winemaker Hugo founded
is one of my favourites. I make it when I’m La Escuelita (‘the little school’) where locals
overloaded with rhubarb. I don’t go to the could learn the art of enology, while
effort of sterilising jars for my rubbish; I just Alejandro, an architect with a penchant for
store it in a container in the fridge, where upcycling, has designed many of the valley’s
it lasts up to a month. It’s delicious with iconic cellar doors, from Vena Cava, with
burgers, barbecue meats, eggs, cheese its upturned fishing boats, to Clos de Tres
and fritters! Heat 1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin Cantos, also made from reclaimed materials.
Search delicious.com.au for ‘sugar-free
olive oil in a saucepan over medium-high rhubarb and almond muffins’
In keeping with this New World order, a
heat. Add 1 thinly sliced red onion, 1 tbs distinguishing style is yet to emerge. While
finely grated ginger and 1 crushed garlic a variety of grapes are grown in the valley,
clove, and cook, stirring occasionally, MAKE IT LAST the principal varietals are cabernet
for 4 minutes or until softened. Add Select rhubarb that is vibrantly sauvignon, tempranillo and chardonnay.
1/2 tsp each ground cumin and coriander, coloured with firm stalks. To store,
discard leaves, enclose stems in
However, intense climatic conditions result
1/4 tsp ground fenugreek, 1 coarsely in wines that are far fruitier than their
plastic wrap and place in the
grated apple, 1 bunch trimmed rhubarb crisper drawer in the fridge for European counterparts, but in no way
up to one week.
cut into 5cm pieces, 1 cup (250ml) red inferior. In fact, La Lechuza Vineyards’
wine vinegar, 1/2 cup (125g) brown sugar SERVE IT WITH chardonnay outweighed many Napa options
ILLUSTRATION ALICE CLEARY
and 1/2 tsp salt flakes, and stir to combine. Cinnamon, vanilla, strawberries, and is on the menu at Thomas Keller’s
ginger, custard, cream, honey,
Reduce heat to low and simmer, stirring yoghurt, pork, black pudding,
heavily toqued California restaurant, French
occasionally, for 15-20 minutes or until star anise, orange, goat’s cheese, Laundry. This frontier mentality of fearless
relish is thick and glossy with no puddle mascarpone, apples and walnuts. experimentation has created a unique
on the surface. terroir, where chefs and winemakers
are combining local and international
delicious.com.au/food-files Follow Alex Follow Shannon ingredients and nouse to create something
For more tips on making the @cornersmith @misspamplemousse truly hecho en Mexico (made in Mexico).
most of ingredients.
INSIDER.
SHAKE
8
This attention to quality has earned Maldon Salt the
approval of the Organic Food Federation, and a Royal
Choosing the right ingredients can turn even Warrant as the official purveyor of sea salt to Her
a basic dish into something special. Discover Majesty The Queen. So when you sprinkle it on your
the difference Maldon sea salt makes. own special recipes, you know you’re in good company.
A favourite with food lovers, and the first choice of IDEAS FOR A SOPHISTICATED TOUCH
celebrity chefs, top cooks and even Royalty, Maldon
sea salt is seasoning as nature intended. Its distinctive, • Rub Maldon sea salt and butter into the
white pyramid flakes have become a quality standard skin of jacket potatoes before baking for a
for taste and texture. Their signature flavour gives a delicious, crisp finish
gourmet twist to food and is ideal for finishing almost • Coat the rim of your cocktail glasses in
any dish. Maldon sea salt for a fresh, crystal finish
Extracted in their purest form, the sea salt flakes have to your drink
been hand harvested by the Osborne family for four • Sprinkle Maldon sea salt flakes over
generations in the coastal town of Maldon, Essex. Even chopped vegetables before roasting to add
today, the crystals are still collected using traditional extra flavour
artisan methods to give Maldon sea salt its unique
taste.
mayers.com.au or 02 9669 2211 for your nearest stockist & more information
DRINKS.
MIKE BENNIE IS ALSO CO-OWNER OF A SYDNEY-BASED WINE AND LIQUOR RETAIL BUSINESS
whisky comes alive with with its charry, firm tannins red sauce Italian pasta dishes and pizza.
dark chocolate; a little- and floral perfume, holds its However, it’s not always so cut and
known food and wine own with truffle as a garnish. dried. Matt Swieboda of Sydney wine bars
pairing, but those who The earthiness of the truffle Love, Tilly Devine and Dear Sainte Eloise
know, know. This Japanese is in sync with the wine’s takes a different perspective: bottle first,
whisky has an ease of earthiness. This release is dish second. “Wine is the main attraction,
drinking and gentle spice stellar – moreish and deep, so we design our menu to work well with a
and sweetness that are dark fruit flavoured, with range of wine styles. This is made easier by
ideal with dark cacao. fine chalky texture. most of the wines sharing common themes
of low alcohol, high acid and savoury
flavours.” It’s a different approach, but
GIOVANNI ARMANI COOPERS SPARKLING rules are made to be broken.
GIORGIO ROSATO ALE 330ML, $5 Cheddar Indeed, I say enjoy your own adventures
DELL’AMORE 2017, $25 cheese: Most people reach in food and wine, and though cohesion
Pizza: Just about any wine for wine with cheese, but between glass and plate can make or
goes with pizza, but for me, beer (and sake and whisky!) break a meal, in the end, it’s up to personal
rosé works a treat in cooler is often a way better taste. It’s why I drink big-flavoured
months. Don’t drink this pairing. Cheddar and ale chardonnay with my steak, at times.
rosé icy cold; let it come up are a time-held tradition.
a few degrees and enjoy the Coopers makes a richer-
juicy, red and black berry flavoured ale just right for delicious.com.au/drinks
To peruse more of Mike’s
fruit flavours and earthy resetting the palate for the
favourite drinks.
spice things going on. big cheddar character.
36 delicious.com.au
BOOK A
TABLE NOW AT
delicious.com.au
FROM LEFT:
kingfish with
sweetcorn and
smoked scallops;
the chef’s table;
prawn cocktail.
a fins-to-scale approach to under-used potato dashi with a greater depth than the
species, Iki Jime is more focused on the fish plumbs itself. Though the combination For more of our critic’s dining picks.
catch of the day and administering is nice, the flesh of the fish is a bit too tight.
culinary smoke and mirrors to not only Nevertheless, Iki Jime shines a new light
REVIEWED ONLINE THIS MONTH
highlight the beauty of the ingredient, on seafood dining, snubbing its nose at
Bar Patrón, Circular Quay, Sydney, NSW
but provide a bit of magic for the diner, the seafood basket mentality of old, and Longsong, Melbourne CBD, VIC
too. I’m not convinced we need the show, celebrating our ocean bounty with a Yarri, Dunsborough, WA
but it’s wonderful to see this renewed convincing contemporary confidence. The Potager, Mount Tomah, NSW
38 delicious.com.au
T H E WO R L D O F C R Y S TA L®
ILLUMINATES
E VERY JOU RN E Y
©2018 Crystal Cruises, LLC. Ships’ registries: The Bahamas and Malta.
BLUEFIN TUNA
diet of pilchards, squid and mackerel. (where they grow in sea pens).
Prized wild-caught SBT is often found @huckstergram @anthuckstep SUBSTITUTIONS
on the east coast in winter and spring, Mackerel, albacore tuna.
with the largest/fattiest mostly sent ACCOMPANIMENTS
to premium sashimi markets in Japan. delicious.com.au/food-files Agrodolce (Italian sweet and sour
For more tips on buying and sauce), apple, citrus, eggplant,
“We produce amazing tunas in Australia, capsicum, avocado, rice.
storing fresh seafood.
from the albacore to yellowfin and bigeye,
40 delicious.com.au
Charlie Chef is helping kids with cancer
Buy Charlie the chef bear for yourself, a little friend, or brighten
the day of a sick child by donating him to a hospital. Call or visit
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MASTERCHEF.
leaves to serve
1/4 cup (60ml) sunflower oil
SPICE PASTE
10g peeled galangal, chopped
5 long red chillies, chopped
8 Asian (red) eschalots, chopped
3 garlic cloves, chopped
20g belacan (roasted shrimp paste)
2 lemongrass stalks, white part only,
chopped
42 delicious.com.au
MEAT MARKET.
PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY SHARYN CAIRNS PHOTOGRAPHY MARK ROPER STYLING EMMA KNOWLES
is the most consumed meat. and tomato sauce
C Pork seems to actually be very 1 tbs finely grated ginger BUTCHER’S CUT
expensive at the moment. 1/4 cup (60ml) apple cider vinegar
PORK SPARE RIBS
A No, no, no, that used to be the case! 1/2 red cabbage, shredded Versatile and relatively simple to cook, pork
Until recently, pork ribs were like $25 a 1 red onion, thinly sliced spare ribs are best prepared using a low
kilo, and most of it is bone. But there was 1 tbs brown sugar and slow method, meaning that roasting,
this obsession with pork ribs, and so the 1/4 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves braising and smoking are all on the cards.
price went down. But now the demand This cut of meat is taken from the bottom
has gone down a bit I think it’s time for Place ribs and cola in a glass bowl, cover of the rib cage and breastbone, with bone
us to give it a bit of an injection again. and chill overnight to marinate. accounting for around half of the weight.
C I’m a huge fan of this as it’s a cheaper The next day, preheat the oven to The name ‘spare rib’ originates from the
cut then. Let’s confit them overnight in 160°C. Grease a large baking tray and line German ‘ribbesper’, a term used in the
the pan, or you can braise them with baking paper. 16th century to describe the cooking
overnight in stock. I leave the bone in. Transfer ribs to prepared tray and strain method of the rib meat on a spear or spit.
It’s not very Paleo, but it is what it is. You cola into a saucepan. Cover ribs and roast When buying, look for pinkish-red meat
can put the Coca-Cola on the ribs the for 2 hours 30 minutes or until tender. with good marbling – a higher fat content
night before and it acts like a tenderiser. Meanwhile, add paprika, maple syrup, makes for a more tender rib.
A Coca-Cola will clean a 50¢ piece, so barbecue and tomato sauce, ginger, 1 tbs
yeah, it will tenderise the meat alright. vinegar and 1 tsp salt flakes to cola, place @askthebutcher_
C It gives it a sweetness. Then you add over high heat and bring to the boil. Boil,
more flavour – tomato and barbecue stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes or until @cfassnidge @fassnidge73
sauce, smoked paprika, grated ginger. thickened slightly. Set aside.
A I like Pepsi. Remove ribs and increase oven to
C I like Coca-Cola better than Pepsi. 220°C. Uncover ribs and brush with some Look out for more from Colin in
The co-lobal issue! cola mixture. Roast ribs, uncovered, ON SUNDAY
A Sounds like Chernobyl. These are brushing every 10 minutes with cola
44 delicious.com.au
I LOVE RANKING
A GOOD BREKKIE
Matt Preston delves into the most important meal of the day
to rate the best offerings from every corner of the globe.
BREAKFASTS AROUND THE WORLD are more than just a bowl coconut and caramelised onion chutneys that put even those
of Wheaties or a boiled egg. But where do I need to go to get the South Indian idli and vada accompaniments to shame.
very best breakfast? For as very, very early health blogger Adelle Closer to home, these simple bruleed pancakes with the added
Davis (1904-1974) famously advised, you should “eat breakfast like joy of a crisp toffee crust are perfect with the pink grapefruits
a king, lunch like a prince, and dinner like a pauper”. now in season. But remember, the first pancake is for the hens
So, we’ve thought long and hard about this global issue, and that laid the eggs. That’s good news, as it’s always the dodgiest.
have come up with the world’s five best breakfasts. The French Head to delicious.com.au for more of Matt’s best breakfasts.
or Argentinian croissant/medialuna with coffee; the bread and
cheese of Denmark, Holland and the Middle East; and the idli, BRULEED PANCAKES WITH RUBY GRAPEFRUIT
vada and dosa of Southern India didn’t make the cut. Neither did SERVES 4
my friend’s favourite: “an espresso martini and a hot bloke”. Tip: pair this with a ‘sommelier’s breakfast’ – a shot of espresso
EGGS TWO WAYS The ultimate egg breakfast is Tunisian in ‘corrected’ with a shot of Campari.
origin, even if it is now claimed by Israel. Shakshuka is poached
eggs on a thick sauce of tomatoes, onions and chilli with the 125g self-raising flour
smoky hit of cumin seeds. This pips the egg and bean breakfasts 1 egg
of Guatemala and Mexico, or even their huevos rancheros. 11/2 cups (375ml) milk
SOUPER GOOD BREAKFAST It normally takes a while, but 60g unsalted butter, almost melted
after a few days in Vietnam, starting another steaming day 2 ruby grapefruits, peeled, thinly sliced (you should have about
with fried eggs, crispy bacon rashers and a tsunami of real maple Transfer pancakes to serving plates, drizzle with some resting
syrup. My belly, however, says that Sri Lanka’s egg hoppers are liquid from cooked grapefruit and scatter with some grapefruit
the best. Crispy-edged fried rice flour pancakes are cooked in a sugar. Top with caramelised grapefruit. Serve with shots of
bowl-shaped pan with an egg at their base and served with fresh chilled grapefruit juice and remaining grapefruit sugar.
46 delicious.com.au
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DELICIOUS 100
LATEST NEWS
RESTAURANTS
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WHERE TO EAT?
> >
MANU REVIEWS
LOCATE
Eat Out wherever you are!
With our user-friendly interactive Manu Feildel joins our
CHEFS TALK BACK
map, you can plot your journey team of critics for monthly We give the chefs the right
to dining bliss with ease. restaurant reviews. to respond to reviews.
VEG STARS AT A LAID-BACK LUNCH 52 >> CURRIES FOR EVERY TASTE 62 >> TURKISH FLAVOURS 70
JAMIE SERVES UP A SPANISH FIESTA 83 >> MATT PRESTON GOES GLOBAL WITH ONE-TRAY DINNERS 90
SKYE McALPINE UNCOVERS THE REAL FOOD OF VENICE 100 >> SPICE UP YOUR DESSERT OPTIONS 108
SAVOUR
Tobie Puttock makes piadina –
Italian flatbread – for a lunch
celebrating his SuperNatural
plant-based eating program.
PHOTOGRAPHY MARK ROPER
ENTERTAINING.
WITH
58 delicious.com.au
ENTERTAINING.
1/2 bunch dill, sprigs picked Stir through paprika and oil. Place salmon 80g dark vegan chocolate, chopped
1/2 cup loosely packed snow pea tendrils on a plate and rub marinade all over. 2 tbs rice malt syrup
Cover and chill for 30 minutes or 1 tsp vanilla extract
Combine yoghurt, chopped mint and a overnight to marinate. 170ml reserved water (aquafaba) from
pinch each of salt flakes and ground black Heat a barbecue or chargrill pan 1 x 400g can chickpeas
pepper in a bowl and chill until needed. to high heat. 200g raspberies
Place the quinoa in a saucepan over Brush cut-side of lime halves with extra 80g chopped pistachios
medium-high heat and cook, stirring oil and grill, cut-side down, for 2 minutes
constantly, for 3 minutes or until toasted. or until grill marks appear. Brush salmon Place chocolate, rice malt syrup and
Add 1 cup (250ml) water and bring to with extra oil and grill, skin-side down, for vanilla in a heatproof bowl set over a
the boil. Reduce heat to low, cover 7 minutes, then turn and grill for a further saucepan of gently simmering water
and cook for 15 minutes, then remove 2-3 minutes or until medium rare. Transfer (don’t let the bowl touch the water) and
from heat and stand, covered, for salmon to a serving plate with limes and stir until chocolate is melted and mixture
5 minutes or until liquid is absorbed. rest for 5 minutes before serving. is combined and cool.
Transfer to a bowl and chill until Using an electric whisk, whisk aquafaba
completely cooled. PEA, SNOW PEA, ALMOND to stiff peaks. Add one-quarter whipped
Meanwhile, place fennel in a bowl & FETA SALAD aquafaba to melted chocolate, stirring
of iced water for 10 minutes to refresh, SERVES 4 until combined. Add chocolate mixture
then drain and pat dry with paper towel. to remaining aquafaba and gently fold to
Heat a barbecue or chargrill pan to 150g snow peas combine. Divide among six 350ml serving
high heat. Combine broccolini, asparagus 150g fresh or frozen peas glasses and chill overnight. Top with the
and 1 tbs oil in a bowl. Grill broccolini 1/2 red onion, thinly sliced raspberries and pistachios to serve.
mixture, turning halfway, for 3-4 minutes 1/4 cup (25g) almond flakes, roasted
60 delicious.com.au
“OUR HOME IS
THE WAY WE EN
ALMOST THE C
OPPOSITE – WE
GENEROUS SH
FISH AND SALA
MATCH WITH
BILLY BUTTON 2X2
RIESLING PINOT
BLANC 2016
Available from
winesociety.com.au
ANDREW McCONNELL’S
Marinated octopus
(recipe p 77).
OPPOSITE: spiced
cauliflower salad
(recipe p 74).
delicious.com.au 71
C
“I serve the herb salad with
yoghurt alongside the
spiced and braised lamb.”
delicious.com.au 73
“ISTANBUL IS ONE OF THE GREAT
FOOD CITIES OF THE WORLD.
WHETHER IT’S A KEBAB ON THE
STREET, A FINE-DINING RESTAURANT
OR A FISH SANDWICH BY THE DOCKS,
IT’S DONE WITH PASSION AND LOVE.”
@chef_andrewmcconnell
GARLIC FLATBREAD WITH stand in a warm place for 2 hours or until 8 white peppercorns
WHIPPED CURD CHEESE doubled in size. Turn out dough onto work 1 tsp coriander seeds
SERVES 6 AS STARTER OR PART OF surface and punch once to knock out air, 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
A SHARED MEAL then divide into 6 even pieces and roll 1/4 tsp fennel seeds
“I‘ve adapted this flatbread recipe from my each piece into a ball. Place balls on a 1 large cauliflower, trimmed,
trip, and now it‘s on the menu in our wine greased tray, cover and stand in a warm cut into florets
bar, Marion. We serve it brushed with place for 30 minutes or until risen slightly. 1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil
plenty of garlic butter, and with house- Meanwhile, combine butter and garlic 2 long green shallots (white and
made whipped curd cheese on the side for in a bowl and set aside until needed. light-green part only), thinly sliced
dipping.” Begin this recipe 4 hours ahead. Gently roll out each flatbread to 1cm Juice of 1 lemon
thick and dust with a pinch of flour. Return 1 green bird’s eye chilli (seeds removed
1 tsp dried yeast to tray, cover with plastic wrap and chill – optional), thinly sliced
1/2 tsp caster sugar for 30 minutes to finish proving. Seeds from 1/2 a pomegranate
310g strong (baker’s) flour, sifted, Meanwhile, for whipped curd cheese, Mint and flat-leaf parsley leaves,
plus extra to dust place ricotta and sour cream in a food to serve
100g unsalted butter, softened processor and whiz until combined.
1 garlic clove, crushed Combine pine nuts, onion and mint in a Preheat the oven to 200°C.
Aleppo pepper (optional – substitute small serving dish. Transfer whipped curd Place peppercorns and coriander, cumin
dried chilli flakes) and extra virgin cheese to a serving bowl and scatter with and fennel seeds on a baking tray and
olive oil, to serve some pine nut mixture and Aleppo toast for 2 minutes or until fragrant. Stand
pepper, if using. Drizzle with oil. to cool slightly then, using a mortar and
WHIPPED CURD CHEESE Heat a large frypan over medium-high pestle, pound until coarsely ground
500g fresh firm ricotta heat. In batches, add flatbread and cook (alternatively, use a spice grinder).
100g sour cream for 4 minutes each side or until golden and Toss cauliflower and oil in a large bowl.
1/3 cup (50g) pine nuts, toasted cooked through. Remove from heat, brush Heat a large non-stick frypan over
1/2 red onion, thinly sliced with garlic butter and scatter with a pinch medium-high heat. Add cauliflower and
1/4 bunch mint, leaves picked of salt flakes. cook, stirring occasionally, for 8-9 minutes
Transfer flatbreads to a serving platter or until golden and barely cooked
To make the flatbreads, in a large bowl and serve with whipped curd cheese and through. Add spice mixture and cook,
combine yeast, sugar and 200ml lukewarm remaining pine nut mixture. stirring constantly, for 1 minute or until
water. Cover and stand for 10 minutes or well combined. Transfer to a bowl and toss
until frothy. Add flour and a pinch of salt SPICED CAULIFLOWER SALAD through shallots, lemon juice, chilli and
flakes, stirring to form a dough. Transfer SERVES 4 1/2 tsp salt flakes. (If you like, stand for
to a lightly floured work surface and knead “This salad was inspired by my first trip at least 1 hour before serving to allow
for 10 minutes or until smooth and elastic to Istanbul. During my visit I ate the most the flavours to develop.)
(or knead on low speed in a stand mixer delicious vegetable dishes. What struck me Transfer cauliflower mixture
fitted with hook attachment). about all of them was their intense flavour. to a serving bowl. Scatter
Transfer dough to a large More often than not, the vegetables with pomegranate,
greased bowl, cover with were prepared during the day and left to mint and parsley
plastic wrap and marinate at room temperature, allowing to serve.
the flavours to really develop. Now, this
is how I usually cook at home.”
ANDREW MCCONNELL.
delicious.com.au 75
C
C
LEMON SYRUP
11/2 (330g) cups caster sugar
Juice of 1 lemon
78 delicious.com.au
Pimp your
LUNCH
BOX.
Up your sandwich game with
this delicious North African
inspired recipe. The combination
of Moroccan spicy chicken,
harissa laced yogurt and Frico
Old Dutch Master cheese is
a game changer. Old Dutch
Master is traditionally ripened
on wooden shelves for almost a
year, to create a cheese with a
rich and creamy character and a “Old Dutch Master has been
sweet and distinctive flavour. Say awarded a gold medal at the
goodbye to boring sandwiches.
World Champion Cheese Contest”
MOROCCAN SPICY CHICKEN
& CHEESE SANDWICH Soak raisins or chopped apricots in Put the bread on a serving plate and
SERVES 2 some warm water and put to the side sprinkle over the Old Dutch cheese. It
until needed. Marinate the chicken with will melt from the residual heat. Arrange
1 large chicken breast fillet (flatten with cardamom, cinnamon and coriander. Add some of the tomato mixture in the middle
a mallet in between cling film to reduce salt and pepper and put in the fridge for of the bread. Slice the cooked chicken
cooking time) a few minutes. In the meantime, mix the and lay half over the tomato mixture.
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom yoghurt with the harissa in a small bowl. Spread some of the harissa yoghurt on
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon Set aside. top. Repeat for the second sandwich. To
1 teaspoon ground coriander eat, fold the sides to the middle and eat
In a separate bowl, mix chopped
Salt and pepper it like a burrito!
tomatoes and green olives. Season with
1 small tomato (cubed)
salt and pepper and add a drizzle of olive Frico cheese originates from the unique
1 tablespoon green olives (pitted & open landscapes of Northern Holland. For
oil. Add toasted almonds and pre-soaked
chopped) generations this area has been expertly crafting
raisins (or apricots) to the mix. Toss all
1 tablespoon almonds (halved & toasted) cheese from milk of the famous Frisian cows, to
ingredients together and set aside. produce pure and tasty cheese. For more
3 tablespoons olive oil
info, visit mayers.com.au
2 baladi bread (or pita) To put the sandwich together, cook the or frico.com
1 tablespoon raisins (or chopped dried chicken in a frypan with 2 tablespoons of
apricots) olive oil. Make sure the chicken is cooked
6 tablespoons grated Frico Old Dutch through, should take 5-10 minutes on
Master cheese each side depending on thickness.
2 tablespoons yoghurt Toast the baladi bread in a dry pan over
2 teaspoons harissa chilli paste medium-high heat.
WHAT WHAT
Barton & Guestier Syrah Cave de Monsegur 1935
Grenache 2016 AOC Bordeaux 2014
$16.99 $15.99
When? When?
Weekend barbecues Midweek meals
BAKES
PHOTOGRAPHY BEN DEARNLEY STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS
FRANCE
A simple French cassoulet
(recipe p 93). Gio 01
Turchese tile (200mm x
200mm, used throughout),
Di Lorenzo Tiles (dilorenzo.
com.au).
90 delicious.com.au
MATT PRESTON.
MEXICO
Mexican black bean and
corn nachos (recipe p 97).
Encaustic tile (DLT84413 –
150mm x 150mm, used
throughout), Di Lorenzo Tiles.
GREECE
Greek lamb via an
Aussie sheep station.
XO Diversi Oceano tile
(200mm x 200mm,
used throughout),
Di Lorenzo Tiles.
MATT PRESTON.
A SIMPLE FRENCH CASSOULET the tray. Add sage, bay leaf, thyme,
SERVES 6-8 rosemary and half the cannellini beans.
“The secret to making this fancy bean stew Return chicken, skin-side up, and
taste meaty and sticky like it’s been cooked sausages to the tray and roast for
for four hours is the powdered gelatine. 30 minutes or until chicken is almost
Sneaky or what! Adding the beans in two cooked through. Carefully add remaining
batches means the first lot breaks down, 200g beans, avoiding chicken (add more
giving a wonderfully creamy texture.” stock or water if cassoulet looks dry).
Sprinkle cheese and breadcrumbs over
4 chicken thigh cutlets (bone in, skin on) entire surface of the cassoulet and roast
1 tbs extra virgin olive oil for a further 25 minutes or until golden.
8 pork chipolatas Scatter with parsley leaves and lemon zest,
2 each carrots, celery stalks and onions, and serve with lemon wedges.
finely chopped
250g piece speck or bacon, rind GREEK LAMB VIA AN
removed, cut into 1cm lardons AUSSIE SHEEP STATION
2 garlic cloves, crushed SERVES 6
1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked, “Australia’s rugged bush and the hot hills
WE LIVE IN A time when stews with stalks finely chopped (we used of Greece are united in their love of lamb.
dumplings or potatoes are a little on Woolworths Macro) In fact, the story behind that jumbuck
the nose among the snooty culinary elite. 1 cup (250ml) white wine in Waltzing Matilda and the creation of
And the rest of us have caught on to the 2 tsp powdered gelatine Greece’s kleftiko lamb are bizarrely similar
con of those so-called ‘one-pot meals’ 1 cup (250ml) chicken stock, warmed – both are hymns to sheep-stealing.
that still rely on dirtying a second pot 2 sage sprigs Perhaps here we’d call it ‘Klepto Lamb’.
for the rice, mash or, maybe, polenta 1 bay leaf sprig This dish is an homage to both traditions,
to soak up all those juices. 3 thyme sprigs but asks: ‘If we can have mint sauce with
The tray bake is the acceptable 8 rosemary sprigs, leaves chopped lamb, why can’t we use other herbs?’”
modern face of one-pot cookery, 400g can cannellini beans, Begin this recipe around 4 hours ahead.
as well as harking back to a time rinsed, drained
when everything for the Sunday roast 1/4 cup (30g) finely grated Gruyere 1 tbs extra virgin olive oil
– except the peas and carrots – was (substitute parmesan) 1kg boneless lamb shoulder, trimmed,
cooked in the roasting tray. 40g each panko and fresh breadcrumbs cut into 5cm pieces
Tray bakes are also a little magic, as Finely grated zest of 1 lemon, 2 onions, chopped
this technique of roasting and braising plus extra lemon wedges to serve 3 oregano sprigs, plus extra 1/2 cup
ingredients together can be adapted chopped oregano leaves
to making pretty much every recipe Rub 1 tsp salt flakes over skin of chicken 2 bay leaves
easier with far less washing up. It’s just and chill, uncovered, until needed. Preheat 1/2 tsp ground cumin
ingredients already par-cooked, as in tray and cook, stirring occasionally, for Finely grated zest of 1/2 a lemon and
our take on an aloo gobi curry; or are 10 minutes or until vegetables have juice of 2 lemons
added raw at the end to soak up the softened. Add garlic and parsley stalks, 2 tsp caster sugar
tasty juices, like the orzo pasta in the and cook, stirring for 1 minute to soften 100g crumbled feta
‘Klepto Lamb’ bake or the cannellini garlic. Add wine, scraping bottom of tray
beans in our cheat’s cassoulet. with a wooden spoon. Bring to a simmer Preheat the oven to 180°C.
Anyway, they’re calling our flight, and cook, stirring occasionally, for Heat oil in a small flameproof baking
so let’s get tray-bake trippin’. 5 minutes or until reduced by half. dish over high heat. Season lamb and
Gradually add gelatine into the warm add to dish. Cook, turning once, for
@mattscravat
stock and stir to dissolve, then pour into 5 minutes or until browned. Add onion,
delicious.com.au 93
“ROASTING AND BRAISING INGREDIENTS
TOGETHER CAN BE ADAPTED TO MAKING EVERY
RECIPE EASIER WITH FAR LESS WASHING UP.”
oregano sprigs, bay leaves, cumin and 1 each onion and celery stalk, Heat remaining 1/2 cup (100g) coconut
paprika. Pour over tomatoes and cover finely chopped oil in a saucepan over medium heat.
with foil. Roast for 90 minutes, uncover, 5cm piece (25g) ginger, finely grated Add onion and celery, and cook, stirring
turn lamb and roast, uncovered, for a 6 garlic cloves, crushed occasionally, for 5-6 minutes or until
further 30 minutes or until browned. 2 tsp garam masala (Indian spice mix) starting to turn golden. Add ginger
Add pasta, 1/2 tsp salt flakes and 3 cups 1 bunch coriander, stalks chopped, and garlic, and cook, stirring constantly,
(750ml) boiling water. Re-cover with foil leaves picked for 3-4 minutes or until starting to
and roast for a further 30 minutes. Add 6 long green chillies, seeds removed, caramelise. Add garam masala and
cherry tomatoes and olives, re-cover with finely chopped remaining 11/2 tsp turmeric, and cook,
foil and cook for a further 1 hour or until Toasted cashews, nigella seeds, toasted stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Add
pasta is tender. coconut flakes, lime wedges, cooked coriander stalks, half chilli and 2 cups
Meanwhile combine extra chopped brown rice, mango chutney and (250ml) water. Drain cashews, add to
oregano, lemon juice and caster sugar Greek yoghurt, to serve pan and, using a stick blender, whiz to
in a bowl. Remove lamb from oven and a puree. Spoon cashew mixture into pan
crumble over feta. Scatter with lemon zest Place cashews and 1 cup (250ml) boiling around cauliflower and potato. Season
and dress with oregano mixture to serve. water in a heatproof bowl and soak for with salt flakes. Roast for 40 minutes or
1 hour. until golden and caramelised.
INDIAN ALOO GOBI Place cauliflower in a microwave-safe Scatter over coriander leaves, toasted
SERVES 4-6 bowl, add 2 tbs water and cover with cashews, nigella seeds, coconut and
“While Indian-inspired, this curried tray plastic wrap. Microwave on high for remaining chilli. Serve with lime wedges,
bake uses potatoes that originate from 10 minutes or until tender. Cool slightly, rice, mango chutney and yoghurt.
Peru and cauliflower that was first then cut in half or quarters. Place in
cultivated in Cyprus, making this an a large roasting pan. THAI GREEN CURRY
early fusion dish.” Preheat the oven to 200°C. Meanwhile, FISH TRAY BAKE
place potato in a saucepan and cover with SERVES 4
100g raw cashews cold salted water. Bring to the boil over “This is another deconstructed curry. Using
1 large cauliflower high heat, then reduce to a simmer and the tray method ensures the fish doesn’t
600g small chat potatoes, cook for 10 minutes or until just tender. get as abused as in a bubbling pot.”
halved lengthways Drain. Transfer potato to roasting pan with
3 tsp ground turmeric cauliflower. Scatter with 11/2 tsp turmeric 1/3 cup (80ml) coconut oil
1 tsp ground cumin and cumin, and drizzle with 1/4 cup (50g) 2cm piece (10g) ginger, finely grated
3/4 cup (180ml) coconut oil coconut oil. Season. Roast for 10 minutes. 1/2 cup (150g) green curry paste
94 delicious.com.au
INDIA
Indian aloo gobi
D
THAILAN
Thai green curry
fish tray bake
(recipe p 94).
MATT PRESTON.
delicious.com.au 97
MATT PRESTON.
6 cardamom pods
2 tbs caster sugar
1 long sweet potato and 1 long purple
sweet potato, cut into wedges
2 carrots, cut into wedges
1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil
98 delicious.com.au
DREAMS
For some, Venice is a romantic holiday destination. For a few lucky others, such as noted
food writer and photographer Skye McAlpine, the island city is home. In this extract from
her first book, she shares the secrets to Venetian food, and what makes it truly autentico.
RECIPES & PHOTOGRAPHY SKYE MCALPINE
CLOCKWISE:
tagliolini with
prawns, zucchini
and saffron;
enjoying a drink; a
canalside cafe.
Céline
Anh uch
SEPTEMBER
3, 2017
Dion
“
like a
I feel l upstart
a
oloni Guest editor
David Campbe
helps celebr ll
MARCH
18, 2018 ate
Father’s Day
The encoun
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STELLAR IS AUSTRALIA’S
NUMBER ONE SUNDAY MAGAZINE*
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ENJOY A TRIPLE TREAT OF AFRICAN ADVENTURE 120 >> SEVEN FOOD INSIDERS REVEAL THEIR TOP PIT STOPS 128
A SYDNEY STAY WITH CINEMATIC STYLE 136 >> NEW ZEALAND’S MARLBOROUGH REGION PUTS ON A SHOW 138
ESCAPE
PHOTOGRAPHY JAIME KOWAL
delicious.com.au 119
Botswana, Zambia and South Africa are on the agenda, as travel and food writer Shannon Harley
indulges her adventurous side with two epic safaris then kicks back in cutting-edge Cape Town.
PHOTOGRAPHY JAIME KOWAL
@misspamplemousse @jaimekowal
Bantry Bay
from Ellerman
House, Cape
Town’s
uber-luxe
boutique
art hotel.
delicious.com.au 121
122 delicious.com.au
GLOBAL FLAVOURS.
FROM TOP: Truth
Coffee’s breakfast
ravioli; the Zeitz
MOCAA; steam punk
vibes at Truth Coffee;
Lion’s Head mountain
rises behind Ellerman
House boutique hotel.
LOVE F O O D
WILL T R AV EL
128 delicious.com.au
FROM TOP: Salt
Restaurant and Beach
Club; Swiit ice cream
parlour; the Catalan
capital is a feast for the
senses. OPPOSITE
(clockwise): a traditional
Singaporean breakfast;
Burnt Ends; Little India.
FOOD DESTINATIONS.
delicious.com.au 133
INSIDER.
CHECK IN
Cobalt-blue waters meet green olive groves
TRAVEL NEWS
MARBELLA NIDO SUITE HOTEL & VILLAS (left),
a recent arrival on the island’s southeastern coast,
is an elegant adults-only retreat with 70 rooms,
a private beach and Ionian Sea vistas. The invitingly
Hot destinations, cool stays, travel essentials & everything in transit. decorated suites hint at Corfu’s Venetian history,
while its two restaurants offer Greek and Italian
cuisine. A sister property, Marbella Corfu, has more
dining options, so you needn’t venture far. Skip
MAJESTIC MALTA Mykonos this year. marbellanido.gr
After a six-month closure, HOTEL SAVOY (above)
Part of an archipelago in the central
Mediterranean, Malta packs a lot of history into
its small size. Consider Cugó Gran Macina, a
luxurious new hotel with a spectacular backstory.
2 in Florence has reopened in a voguish new guise.
Florentine fashion house Emilio Pucci was
enlisted to revamp the lobby, which now references
one of its brilliantly patterned scarves. Designer
The seafront building’s fortress walls were Olga Polizzi, meanwhile, reconfigured four of the
constructed in 1554, and have been thoroughly suites with hand-painted wallpaper, sleek furniture
reimagined with 21 airy suites, a rooftop terrace and vintage curios. People-watching doesn’t get
and a pool. Maltese food, a mix of Sicilian, French much better than a perch at Irene, the Savoy’s cafe
on Piazza della Repubblica. roccofortehotels.com
and North African influences, is similarly tempting.
23
22 5
21 6
20
15 12
8
CLOCKWISE: amenities
come courtesy of
Aesop; a spacious
‘Loft’ room; the hotel
terrace and gym;
greenery is a feature
of the hotel; (inset) the
garden cafe and hotel
lobby. OPPOSITE
(clockwise): striking art
graces the walls; the
geometric exterior;
a ‘Sunny’ room; (inset)
minibar treats from
hip Sydney eateries.
MARLBO
138 delicious.com.au
LOCAVORE.
Whether on land or at sea, New Zealand’s Marlborough region is blessed with breathtaking
beauty and bountiful produce. delicious. editor-in-chief Kerrie McCallum revels in it all.
@kerrie_mccallum @kerriemccallum
O RO U G H
PHOTOGRAPHY SIMON KELLY
A bundance has blessed Marlborough. This
ruggedly beautiful northeast tip of New
Zealand’s South Island boasts wall-to-wall
vineyards and the largest plantation of sauvignon blanc vines
on the planet (praise be!). Its network of waterways known as
the Marlborough Sounds is the source of some of the world’s
“IT’S
EXTRAORDINARY
STUFF, AND
best abalone diving, the turquoise waters also rich with crayfish,
salmon, mussels, sea urchin and the famous Cloudy Bay clam. THE SCENERY
Visitors will also find aromatic fields of garlic and amazing corn; even the
hops and resulting beers are great. It’s hard to imagine what more a food lover
CONSTANTLY
in the wild could want. ASTOUNDS; AT
It’s extraordinary stuff, and the scenery constantly astounds; at every turn there’s
a breathtaking view. There are more than 50 nature reserves and several wildlife
EVERY TURN
sanctuaries in the region. On the Sounds, you’ll motor past dramatic mountainous terrain THERE’S A
dotted with sure-footed goats. As you glide through pristine water speckled with pale
pink jellyfish, dolphins will playfully race you (likely one of the world’s smallest varieties,
BREATHTAKING
the endangered Hector’s dolphin). Look to shore to spot rock formations leaning into VIEW.”
the land like enormous ancient gateways to the underworld. It’s all very Lord of the Rings
and rather otherworldly. With so much on offer, where to start?
THE VINEYARDS 2003. It’s an organic and biodynamic wines that are true to the earth. As of
Marlborough is New Zealand’s largest pioneer, using “magic cow poo natural 2015, 12 per cent of all NZ grape growers
wine-growing region, and a wine trail fertiliser, fed in the ground with egg had a certified organic vineyard, including
stretches from Blenheim to Picton (a shells and basalt dust for three months many in the Marlborough region. While
pretty port town a short flight or ferry so you are feeding the soil rather than there are myriad Marlborough vineyards
ride from Wellington with a population the vines”, explains Jason. Te Whare Ra to explore, the good news is the region
of about 4500). There are more than is credited in local circles as having the is compact: many wineries are just a short
30 cellar doors, and over 140 wineries, best riesling in New Zealand, a wine Anna cycle apart and within a 15- to 20-minute
including the famous Cloudy Bay, and believes is Marlborough’s unsung hero. drive of Blenheim.
driving around the region offers such The region’s distinctive slate and rocky
pleasurable sights as lambs playing soil is ideal for sav blanc, but “there are CLOUDY BAY
among the vines and beehives sitting some really incredible rieslings being Named by Captain Cook for its, well,
beside the road, all surrounded by produced here, even though it took us clouds, Cloudy Bay itself is a stark beach,
rampant fronds of wild fennel. a while to get it right”, she explains. dotted with large grey pebbles and
As well as the bigger houses, there The Flowerdays are part of a collective driftwood, and what looks like the
are also some exciting boutique wineries, of organic and biodynamic vineyards remnants of bonfires, although it’s still
such as Te Whare Ra (which means (Marlborough Natural Winegrowers) that a sought-after holiday house spot. The
‘house of the sun’ in Maori), owned and is bringing together the best of artisanal bay faces Cook Strait over a distance of
run by Jason and Anna Flowerday since wine-growing and eco science to create 30 kilometres, from the Marlborough
LOCAVORE.
Sounds (Port Underwood) in the north to high-pressure water through fine jets
White Bluffs in the south. It’s a 15-minute ahead of the rakes, safely loosening the
drive from Blenheim. Evidence of Maori clams and causing them to close for
inhabitance dates back to the 1200s and collection, resulting in a near zero
it’s one of the oldest and best researched mortality rate. (Believe it or not, clams
sites of early Polynesian settlement in are haemophiliacs, and any damage to
New Zealand. It’s the produce you will their sensitive ‘tongue’ – actually their
find on land and off that most defines it. foot – results in their death.)
The Cloudy Bay vineyards need no The four types of clam (Diamond
introduction, but it’s the world-class Shell, Tua Tua, Storm Clam and
Cloudy Bay Clams operation that feeds Moon Shell) are found on menus
a lot of local menus and also exports across the Marlborough region,
around the globe. Boats head out year as well as Australia and as far
round from Port Underwood to fish for afield as Hong Kong and
surf clams mere metres from shore. Europe. Each has a distinct
Cloudy Bay Clams, run by the Piper flavour, but whatever you
family, is considered a world leader in choose, there’s nothing like
sustainable fishing. The company’s the sweet, creamy flesh eaten
unique rake and dredge method blasts raw straight from the sea.
delicious.com.au 141
ARAPAOA ISLAND
Arapaoa (formerly Arapawa) is home to
the paua (abalone) farm run by Mike and
Antonia Radon of Arapawa Homestead.
It’s an untouched paradise of ancient hills
that roll down to the glimmering waters of
the Pacific Ocean, with a labyrinth of inlets
and bays. In one cove in the Tory Channel
rests the haunting skeletal remains of the
long-abandoned Perano Whaling Station
– NZ’s last operational station. The short
chopper ride or one-hour water taxi trip
affords incredible views.
The Radons farm blue pearls from the
paua from over 200 tanks, and although
the couple’s focus was initially on the
abalone meat, it has shifted to the pearls,
which they supply to the mainland. They
also rent out different accommodation
options on the island – choose from
unique homesteads, cottages and huts
(arapawahomestead.co.nz).
Arapaoa Island
“ARAPAOA ISLAND IS AN
UNTOUCHED PARADISE OF ANCIENT
HILLS THAT ROLL DOWN TO THE
GLITTERING WATERS OF THE PACIFIC.”
delicious.com.au 143
Incredible produce abounds on the The Te Araroa Trail (New Zealand’s
mainland, too. Developed by Dion Brown Trail) is a 3000-kilometre bucket list
(formerly of Cloudy Bay Clams), Origin walk, and the South Island section
South Food’s single-origin, grass-fed starts at the historic Ship Cove in
local lamb is from Mount Peel. The flavour the Sounds (famous for sheltering
develops from the livestock grazing on Captain Cook during his voyages to
grass open to coastal winds, and is a New Zealand). It winds through the
favourite of chefs in the area. Then there ridges and bays of the Queen Charlotte
are the fragrant fields belonging to Track, with reasonably easy walking
Marlborough Garlic, sitting incongruously where the views keep on coming. There’s
between vineyards and scented like a loaf also the New Zealand Cycle Trail, which
of garlic bread. CEO John Murphy is similarly follows the Queen Charlotte
famous for the inroads he is making with track from Ship Cove to Anakiwa. It’s
black garlic, or ‘Garlic Noir’; the bulbs are a 70-kilometre ride, taking between two WHERE THE LOCALS EAT
fermented for a month to a blackish paste and three days, boasting lush coastal • FINE DINING Arbour in
to develop the umami flavour that is forest and skyline ridges. You can ride Blenheim dishes up elegant food
winning fans around the world. the entire track or just sections, using with a view over Renwick wine
A perfect storm of nature and climate boat transport from Picton. country. Its contemporary menu
has also resulted in world-class honey The Marlborough Sounds accounts is driven by seasonality and
production (with hives placed on farms for one-fifth of New Zealand’s entire Marlborough produce.
around the region to help pollination), or coastline, so while the views are really • TOP CAFE Blenheim’s The
you can cruise the local mussel or salmon something, it’s also renowned for the Vines Village Cafe, helmed by chef
farms to experience the techniques diving, particularly off Port Gore and Francis Nolan, is famous for its
firsthand then dine on the catch. Motuara Island. brunching and lunching using the
region’s best produce. Popcorn
clams are a highlight.
• CULT CLASSIC The Burleigh in
Blenheim has the “best pies in the
world”, according to Cloudy Bay
Clams’ Isaac Piper. Varieties
include beef and blue cheese,
jerk chicken and pork belly.
• CHEAP EATS Witherlea
Takeaways’ fish and chips are the
go-to for Blenheim locals craving
a top-quality fresh catch.
• FESTIVAL MUST The
Marlborough Food & Wine Festival
attracts top food and wine talent
from New Zealand and Australia
every year on the second Saturday
in February. The 2019 festival is
again at Brancott Vineyard and is
the ideal way to sample the local
drops and produce.
Accommodation amid
Arapaoa’s rolling hills
includes homesteads,
cottages and huts.
144 delicious.com.au
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148 delicious.com.au
INDEX.
JUNE 2018
RECIPE INDEX
STARTERS, SIDES & LIGHT MEALS Matzo ball soup ....................................... 26
Cheese toastie......................................... 84 Mexican black bean &
Çoban salatasi (shepherd’s salad) (v) ...... 77 corn nachos (v)..................................... 97
Escalivada (v) ........................................... 86 Mud crab curry ........................................ 68
Fried eggs with sucuk.............................. 77 Parsnip schnitzel (v).................................. 26
Garlic flatbread with whipped Penang assam laksa................................. 42
curd cheese (v)..................................... 74 Pisto manchego....................................... 87
Herb salad with yoghurt (v)...................... 77 Pork spare ribs glazed in Coca-Cola
Onion and olive pissaladiere with barbecue sauce ................................... 44
‘A Love Supreme’ (v)............................ 21 Roasted dusky flathead, kosher XO,
Pea, snow pea, almond & flatbread .............................................. 26
feta salad (v)......................................... 60 Salmon with lime, paprika, cumin and
Quinoa, broccoli & asparagus salad (v)....56 coriander seeds ................................... 60
Smoky romesco and piadina (v)............... 56 Spiced braised lamb with lemon and
Spiced cauliflower salad (v) ..................... 74 smoky eggplant ................................... 77
Spiced meatballs ................................... 102
MAINS Tagliolini with prawns, zucchini
A simple French cassoulet....................... 93 and saffron ......................................... 102
Chicken chilindrón................................... 86 Thai green curry fish tray bake ................ 94
Curried beef ribs with pomegranate The USA tray bake (without immigration
lime sambal.......................................... 69 restrictions) (v)...................................... 98 Moroccan M’hanncha
Duck maryland jungle curry..................... 68 (The Snake) ........................................ 117
Eggplant funghetto (v)............................. 56 SWEET THINGS Persian love cake ................................... 114
Greek lamb via an Aussie Apple, gin & juniper tarte Tatin ............. 111 Revani syrup cake .................................... 78
sheep station.. ..................................... 93 Apple, honey & walnut cake.................. 105 Salted cinnamon brioche loaf with cream
Grilled vegetable & squid salad .............. 88 Baked saffron kheer with saffron & cheese icing....................................... 116
Harissa chicken curry with braised beans vanilla pears....................................... 114 ‘Topfengolatsche’, cream
and couscous....................................... 64 Bruleed pancakes with cheese, rhubarb................................... 29
Indian aloo gobi ...................................... 94 ruby grapefruit..................................... 46 Vegan chocolate mousse with berries
Japanese egg & pork curry soup ............ 66 Chocolate and amaretti custard ............ 106 and pistachio ....................................... 60
Lamb shank, turmeric, kale & Drunken Jamaican ginger cake ............. 116
chickpea curry...................................... 11 Maria’s famous tiramisu ......................... 106 DRINKS
Marinated octopus .................................. 77 Melopita (Greek honey and cinnamon Millionaire #1........................................... 56
Massaman lamb leg curry with cheesecake) ....................................... 116 Southern Maid......................................... 56
quickled vegetables............................. 66 Mexican chilli chocolate tart.................. 112 (v) denotes vegetarian recipe
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delicious.com.au 149
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