UNESCO-NIGERIA TECHNICAL

& VOCATIONAL EDUCATION

REVITALISATION PROJECT-
PHASE II

NATIONAL DIPLOMA IN
CIVIL ENGINEERING
TECHNOLOGY

CIVIL ENGINEERING CONSTRUCTION I

COURSE CODE: CEC105

YEAR I- SEMESTER I

PRACTICAL
 Table of Contents

WEEK 1 PRACTICAL
Set out a building

WEEK 2 PRACTICAL
Set out building (3-4-5) method

WEEK 3 PRACTICAL
Set up a moving profile for circular building

WEEK 4 PRACTICAL
Building a brick wall

WEEK 5 PRACTICAL
Making a precast lintel

WEEK 6 PRACTICAL
Insitu concrete lintel

WEEK 7 PRACTICAL
Laying bituminous felt

WEEK 8 PRACTICAL
Applying asphalt finish

WEEK 9 PRACTICAL
Fixing timber staircase on site

WEEK 10 PRACTICAL
Making concrete staircase

WEEK 11 PRACTICAL
SETTING OUT USING THEODOLITE METHOD

WEEK 12

EXCAVATING DRAIN POSITIONS

WEEK 13

TESTING DRAINS

WEEK 14

CONSTRUCTION OF BATTENED DOORS

WEEK 15

CONSTRUCTION OF FRAME AND BRACED DOORS

 WEEK 1

PRACTICAL

TITLE: SET OUT A BUILDING

AIM: KNOW HOW TO SET OUT A BUILDING

EQUIPMENT: sharp pegs, a mallet, a hammer, a ball of string, a 30 metre steel

tape

PROCEDURES:

1. Assemble the equipment for setting out:

sharp pegs, a mallet, a hammer, a ball of string, a 30 metre steel tape

2. Find out the distance from the site boundary to the building line on the working

Drawing. Use the tape to measure the same distance from the site boundary to

the location of the building line on the ground. Select a corner on the ground to

be corner A.

3. Place a peg in the ground at corner A and hammer a nail into the top of the peg.

4. Repeat these steps to place a peg in the ground for corner B

5. Tie the string between pegs A and B. Check that the distance on the ground is

the same measurement as the distance on the drawing.

6. Repeat these steps for corners C and D.

7. Measure the diagonals A-D and B-C (the two diagonal should be equal)

8. Use the builder’s square to check that the corners are at right angles.
 WEEK 2

TITLE: SET OUT A BUILDING

AIM: SET OUT A BUILDING USING 3-4-5 METHOD

PROCEDURES:

1. Nail three pieces of timber together which you cut to these lengths to make a

frame

750mm

1000mm

1250mm

A frame with a right angled corner is called a square.

2. Place the right angle of the square against the lines between the corners. If the

corners are not at right angles then move the corner pegs until they make right

angles.

3. Measure the diagonals to check that they are the same length.
 WEEK 3

TITLE: SETTING OUT BUILDING

AIM: SETTING UP A MOVING PROFILE FOR CIRCULAR

BUILDING.

PROCEDURES:

1. Find out the radius of the building from the working drawings

2. Mark out the measurement on the ground.

3. Place a stake securely in the ground at the end of the radius in the centre of

the building.

4. Drill a 12mm hole in the stake

5. Place a 12mm reinforcing bars in the hole in the stake

6. Check that the top of the bar is level.

7. Cement the stake in position

8. Loop a piece of rope which is the length of the radius of the building over

the reinforcing bar

9. Measure the distance to the inner and outer sides of the foundation from the

working drawing

10. Use the rope to measure the same distances on the ground

11. Mark the distances around the outline of the building

 WEEK 4

TITLE: BUILDING A BRICK WALL

AIM: KNOW HOW TO BUILD A BRICKWALL

PROCEDURES:

1. Use the profile lines to locate an external corner on the strip foundation

2. Use a builder’s level held vertically or a plumb-line to mark the position

of the external corner with wet mortar. Repeat steps 1 and 2 for all four

corners.

3. Stretch a line between the corners to provide a position for the first

course of brick. Secure the line by wrapping it around a brick and putting

another brick on top. Remove the line after the first course of bricks is

laid

4. Lay the bricks in a row. Adjust their position by tapping the bricks back

for 8 or 10 courses. Check that they are level horizontally and vertically

with the builder’s level

5. Build up the corners by racking the brick back for 8 or 10 courses. Check

your accuracy with builder’s level. Use a gauge rod to control the height.

6. Insert metal pegs in the mortar joint on the corners for each completed

course of brickwork. Stretch a line between the pegs so that it is flush

 with the surface of the brickwork to provide a guide for the next course

of brickwork.

7. Continue checking horizontal and vertical levels.

8. From the joints while the mortar is soft.

 WEEK 5

TITLE: CASTING A PRECAST LINTEL

AIM: KNOW HOT TO PRCAST LINTEL IS MADE

PROCEDURES:

1. Make a timber box in an open top, which is the same size as the

external dimensions of the finished lintel.

2. Paint the inside of the box with releasing oil. This stop the concrete

sticking to the timber

3. Bend the end of the reinforcement bars to right angles (900). If the

lintel contains more than one bar, then make short cross bars and wire

the cross bar to the long bars

4. Insert spacers that holds the bars 25mm from the bottom of the

formwork. Spacers are small cement block embedded with tie wires

that you use to attach them to the bars

5. Place the reinforcement in the formwork and check that the bars are

50mm from each end of the box and supported by spacers.

6. Mix the require amount of concrete

7. Pour the concrete into the timber box and make sure that it flows

down around and under the rods, then pack it down to remove any

trapped air.
8. Make a smooth finish on the top of the concrete with a wood float and

write the word top on the concrete.

9. Cover the box with wet sacking and leave to set for seven days.
 WEEK 6

TITLE: INSITU CONCRETE LINTEL

AIM: MAKING AN INSITU CONCRETE LINTEL

PROCEDURES:

1. Erect the timber formwork across the opening and support it from the floor

below. Use wedges to level the support and formwork.

2. Seal all the joint with building paper or mastic between the timber formwork

and the brickwork to stop the cement and water leaking out.

3. Paint the inside of the formwork with releasing oil.

4. Place the reinforcement in the formwork using the same method describe in

making precast lintel

5. Pour the concrete and cover it with wet sacking and leave it for seven days.
 WEEK SEVEN

TITLE: LAYING BITUMINOUS FELT

AIM: LAYING BITUMINOUS FELT ON ROOF

PROCEDURES:

1. Roll out the first sheet of felt over the roof boarding and nail it with large

head roofing nails.

2. Roll out the next sheet of felt so that it overlaps the first by 50mm and nail it

down

3. Continue step 1 and 2 until the entire roof is covered in a layer of felt

4. Apply hot bitumen to the first layer of felt. Then roll out another layer, but

do not nail it. The sheets in this layer should overlap the first layer by 50mm.

5. Repeat step 4 with the third layer

6. Spread a layer of white marble or limestone chips set in bitumen over the top

layer to reflect heat.

 WEEK 8

TITLE: APPLYING A MASTIC ASPHALT FINISH

AIM: LAY MASTIC ASPHALT FINISH

PROCEDURES:

1. Melt the solid blocks of asphalt in a boiler.

2. Sweep the roof surface.

3. Lay an under felt cover over the roof surface that prevents the penetration of the

asphalt into the roof surface.

4. Carry the hot melted asphalt in buckets to the roof.

5. Spread a 10mm thick layer of asphalt by hand with a wood float

6. Apply the second layer to the same thickness so that it melts into the first layer

and weld the edges of the two layers together to a 20mm thickness.

7. Make a 450 wedge or fillet at the junction with vertical upstands that increase

the thickness of the asphalt at week points. Vertical upstands should be at least

150 mm above the finished level of the asphalt.

8. Spread a 12 mm layer of white crushed stone over the surface or paint the

surface with reflective paint.

 WEEK 9

TITLE: FIXING A TIMBER STAIRCASE ON SITE

AIM: HOW TO FIX TIMBER STAIRCASE ON SITE

PROCEDURES:

1. Fix the stair to the wall with plugs and crews.

2. Tightly fix against the staircase trimmer joist at the top and be cut and shaped to

fit against the skirting beside it.

3. Make the lower end of the staircase rests on the floor.

4. Cut and match to the skirting as required

5. Insert the outer string in the newel posts at the top and bottom. The stair wall

trimmer slots into the top newel post and they are screwed or nailed together.

6. Fix the lower newel post to the floor with brackets.

7. Finally, fit the handrail and balustrade to the string and newels to complete the

staircase fixing on site.

 WEEK 10

TITLE: CONCRETE STAIRCASE

AIM: MAKING A CONCRETE STAIRCASE

PROCEDURES:

A concrete staircase is usually made on site. The construction procedure is the

same as for other concrete slab.

1. Erect timber formwork

2. Oil the formwork to prevent the concrete sticking to the timber

3. Position the steel reinforcement

4. Mix concrete by hand or mixer

5. Pour concrete and compact

6. Cure concrete for seven days

7. Remove the formwork after seven days

 WEEK 11 

TITLE: SETTING OUT USING THEODOLITE METHOD 

AIM: Know How To Setout Building Using Theodolite 

PROCEDURES: 

   
   

 
   
 

 
     
 

1. Mount and set the instrument at point A, sight the telescope, range and peg 

out point E and B to establish the building line 

2. turn the theodolite screws, set and adjust the degree reading to 0” to 00” turn 

the telescope of the instrument on the tripod stand towards the right axis until 

you can sight 900  00’ 00” using the instrument range to establish and peg out 

point F and C 
3. transfer the instrument to point C, and following the same procedure at A, 

range A and F, set the angle 00 000 00”, turn forwards the  right axis to sight 

and obtain 900 00000” and to establish point G and D 

4. point H could be established by using a measuring tape. 

5. check the whole measurement again by mounting the instrument on points B 

and D and repeat the whole process 
 WEEK 12 

TITLE: EXCAVATING DRAIN POSITIONS 

AIM: Know How To Excavate Drain Positions 

PROCEDURES: 

1. Mark out the position of the drain runs on the ground and mark the manhole 

positions. 

2. Calculate the depth of the inverts at the manholes positions. 

3. Calculate the depth of the excavation and add 100mm for bedding if required. 

4. measure the height of the upper sight rail above the datum 

5. set up sight rails on the first straight drain run and calculate the length of the 

traveler. 

6. excavate the trench until you reach the correct level by lining up the traveler 

or boning rod with the line between the sight rails 

7. insert  some  pegs  in  the  bottom  of  the  trench  that  project  100mm  off  the 

bottom 

8. fill the bottom of the trench with 100mm granular material until it covers the 

pegs. 
9. attach  a  batten  to  the  bottom  of  the  rod  so  that  it  can  sit  drains  on  the 

bedding and keep checking the levels with the boning rod. Joint the pipes so 

that socket faces the flow 

10.test the drains and backfill 

11.repeat procedure for the next drain run 
 WEEK 13 

TITLE: TESTING DRAINS 

AIM: Know How Drains are tested for leakage using the hydraulic test method 

THEORY:  Drains  that  carry  sewage  must  not  leak  into  surrounding  ground.  To 

ensure  that  the  joints  are  secured,  drains  should  be  tested  before  they  are 

covered. 

  They are three method of testing drains: 

1. the ball test 

2. the hydraulic test 

3. the mirror and torch test 

PROCEDURE: Hydraulic test 

1. plug the lower end of a drain run 

2. insert a temporary joint and a 1.5 meter length of pipe at the higher end 

3. pour water in the drain until the upright pipe is full. 

4. leave it for two hours 

5. check the level 

6. top the water level up 
7. check the levels again after half an hour 

the level should drop less than 6.4mm per metre of 100mm pipe or 4.5mm per 

150mm pipe. 

  If the drop in the water level is greater than 6.4mm or 4.5mm then the pipe 

must be inspected for leak and you repair or replace it. 
 WEEK 14 

TITLE: DOOR CONSTRUCTION 

AIM: Know how to make a ledged, braced and battened door. 

THEORY:  This  is  a  very  simple  door  for  internal  or  external  use  and  is  cheap  to 

make 

  It consist of the following: 

1. Tongued, grooved and V‐joint battens measuring 100×25mm 

2. Diagonal  piles  pieces  called  braces  that  measure  about  100×25mm.  braces 

should be fixed so that they slope up away from the hinges 

PROCEDURES: 

1. assemble battens that are the right size for the door 

2. glue the tongues and grooves together  

3. screw or nail the battens to the ledges 

4. cut out and fit the braces between the ledges 

5. nail the battens to the braces. 

This type of door does not have any special wood working joints. 
 
 WEEK 15 

TITLE: DOOR CONSTRUCTION 

AIM: Know how to make framed, braced and battened door. 

THEORY: This door is strong then the ledged, braced and battened door because 

the battens are set inside a timber frame 

  The framed, braced and battened door consist of the following pieces: 

1. Battens that form the surface of the door  

2. A frame with a head rail, bottom rail and two stiles 

3. A ledge 

4. Braces 

PROCEDURE: 

1. cut and assemble the pieces of the frame to fit the door size 

2. insert the head and bottom rail into recesses in the stiles 

3. fit the braces 

4. nail the battens on the braces and stile.