SAPONIFICATION BATH SOAP

Introduction: The reaction in making soap (saponification) is a base (usually NaOH or KOH) hydrolysis of
triglycerides to make three salts (soap) and glycerol. The molecules crystallize differently depending on
the base used. NaOH produces a harder bar while KOH is used more frequently for liquid soaps.

The two most commonly used methods to make soap at home are called the cold process and the
hot process. Both require a heat source and careful calculations to ensure that no caustic base is left
unreacted in the soap. The hot process uses heat to speed the reaction resulting in fully saponified
soap by the time you pour your soap into molds. The cold process uses just enough heat to ensure
that all the fat is melted prior to reacting it with the base. I prefer the cold process because it is
simpler, requires less time and energy, while resulting in a creamier bar.
To calculate the amount of NaOH required, identify the saponification value of each oil being used. For
example, 1.0 gram of avocado would require 0.133 g of solid NaOH. You will use a 5 % excess of the oil to
ensure that nearly all of the sodium hydroxide is consumed in the saponification process. Otherwise, the
soap will be too basic and could be harmful to use. If 100 g of avocado oil were used, then the amount of
NaOH required (assuming a 5% excess of oil) would be 95 g oil x 0.133 g NaOH/1.0 g oil = 12.63 g of solid
NaOH. Water is also required for this soap. For most soaps, a good amount of water is 35% of the mass of
oil used. In this case, the amount of water required would be 35 g (or 35 mL).

It is sometimes desirable to use more than one kind of oil. Here are the calculations for a soap containing
30% coconut oil and 70% olive oil. Assume that 30 g of coconut oil and 70 g of olive oil are used. First,
calculate the mass of 95% of each oil to ensure that there is a 5% excess of oil. Then do the following
calculation:

28.5 g coconut oil x 0.181 g NaOH/g oil

+ 66.5 g olive oil x 0.134 g NaOH/g oil
= 5.16 g + 8.91 g
14.06 g NaOH required.

The recipe would be 30 g of coconut oil, 70 g of olive oil, 14.06 g NaOH, and 35 mL of water.

Note: A great all-around soap is made with 30% coconut oil, 35% Crisco shortening, and 35% olive oil.
Not too dry and good cleaning.

PROCEDURE

1. Determine how much soap you want to make. In this experiment, you should use 100 g of oil, either
100% of one oil or a mixture.

2. Decide which oil/oils you will be using. Each oil has differing properties that react differently and
produce different qualities in your soap. For example, coconut oil will give you a hard-bubbly bar with
excellent cleaning properties, however, bars with more than 40% coconut oil can be drying to the skin. On
the other hand, olive oil makes a super moisturizing soap but the bar is softer, doesn’t last as long, and
can leave behind an oily feeling. 100% olive oil bars also take considerably longer to react. In general, oils
that are great for cleaning produce a harder bar but aren’t that moisturizing, while moisturizing oils
produce softer bars and don’t clean as well. 30% coconut oil and 70% other oil/oil blend react easily and
makes a great all-around bar.
3. Each oil requires a different amount of base to react completely Calculate the amount of NaOH required
to react all but 5 % of your oil(s). You want a 5% excess of oil in your soap to ensure that no caustic base
remains unreacted in your soap. The excess oil is also great for the skin.

4. Prepare your mold, anything that will hold its shape will do. You will want to either grease your mold
with petroleum jelly or line with freezer paper, parchment paper, or plastic wrap. DO NOT use aluminum
foil because it will react with your base and release hydrogen gas. The bottom of quart size milk carton is
pre lined and works great.

5. Make your aqueous base solution. Weigh out the amount of NaOH calculated in step 3 and put aside.
Then pour 35.0 mL of distilled water into a 250-mL beaker. Slowly add the base to the water (never water
to base!) while stirring with a glass stirring rod until dissolved and let cool to 33-43°C.

Caution: NaOH is caustic and can burn you! Wear gloves! When NaOH is dissolved in water, a lot of heat
is given off. This solution may become very hot.

6. Weigh and place oils into a beaker and melt/heat on a hot plate to 33-43°C. Mixing the oils and base at
similar temperatures facilitates the reaction and prevents separation.

7. Once both the base solution and your oils are 33-43°C, you can begin slowly pouring the aqueous base
solution into the oils while stirring. A magnetic stir bar may facilitate this process. Continue stirring until
the mixture begins to thicken and you can see trails of your mixture on the surface upon lifting your
spoon/stirrer above the surface. This stage is called ‘trace’ and some oils take longer than others to reach
this stage. Once you have reached ‘trace’, you can add any fragrances or additives, mix thoroughly, then
pour into your mold. Be mindful not to pour your stir bar into the mold. If you do, wear gloves when
fishing it out and change gloves afterwards.

8. Optionally you can insulate your mold with towels to trap heat and facilitate the reaction, or not. Some
prefer to even chill the mixture at this point to prevent the soap from going through a ‘gel’ stage which
occurs when the reaction heats up, turning the soap transparent for a short time before turning opaque
again. The soap will appear different having gone through, or not having gone through ‘gel’ stage. Either
way, your soap should be nearly completely saponified in 24-48 hours, at which point it can be removed
from the mold. Though safe to use at this point, curing for 4-6 weeks will react any trace amounts of base
and evaporate excess water, resulting in a smoother and longer lasting bar.

9. Before using your soap, you must test the pH to make sure that it is not too basic. You will test the pH
in different ways.

 Using a sharp device such as a knife or scalpel, shave off about 1 g of your soap in small pieces.
Add to 20 mL of water in a small beaker and stir. Transfer about 2 mL of this mixture to a test tube
and add a couple drops of phenolphthalein. The test range for phenolphthalein is ~ pH 8-10,
changing from colorless to a deep pink.
 Colorless to light pink is fine.
 The more intense the pink, the more basic it is.
 A soap that gives a deep pink color may be an indication of an erroneous measurement or non-
uniform mixture.
 A soap giving a deep pink color could be dangerous.
 Verify the pH using a pH meter. Soaps with a pH > 10 can be irritating to the skin depending on
skin type.
 Soaps with a pH > 11 should NOT be used on the skin. They can be grated and used as laundry
soap which generally has a pH of 10-12.
 Finally test a couple drops of the soap solution on pH paper to see if you get similar results.