AS H I
REPORTER
Understanding
and inspecting
EPDM
roofing
b y J o h n C r a n o r, A S H I M e m b e r
E PDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer), or
“rubber roofing,” is one type of single ply roofing.
Since it first appeared in the mid 60s, EPDM has
proven to be a reliable and durable roofing system.
The material has the appearance and feel of a tire
inner tube, and it rebounds when stretched. Although
it is available in white and in black, black is most often
used, probably due to a slightly better track record on
performance. Neither color requires protection from
ultraviolet rays.
White membrane is typically used on buildings where
there are concerns about thermal heat transfer or
about sweating under the membrane. Black mem-
brane can be painted white, but only with water-
based acrylic paint. The white paint keeps the surface
cooler to help minimize heat gain, and to help control
condensation from forming under the membrane,
which is sometimes a problem. White membrane,
whether original or painted, can be as much as 80
degrees cooler than black, which can translate to sig-
nificant energy savings in an air-conditioned building.
EPDM membrane is available in several thicknesses
(.045 and .060) and in reinforced versions. Re-
inforced EPDM is most often used when there is a
reason to be concerned about membrane fatigue or
a higher than usual chance of
puncture.
NOVEMBER 2002 • VOL. 19, #11
EPDM is installed in one of three ways. It can be
loose laid and held down with ballast (rounded
rocks); it can be mechanically fastened to the roof
with bars and buttons; or it can be fully adhered to
the deck.
The ballast system is often used over expanded poly-
styrene insulation, which is lightweight, economical
and energy efficient. Because the EPDM adhesives dis-
solve the polystyrene, the membrane is only laid over
the insulation, mechanically attached around the
perimeters and held down with ballast (rocks). If the
structure cannot support the additional weight of bal-
last, or if EPDM is being installed over existing roof-
ing material, such as tar and gravel, a mechanical
attached system is a better choice. Reinforced EPDM
is recommended for mechanically attached applica-
tions because it is resistant to punctures/tears and
wind fatigue at anchors. The fully adhered system is
the most common, especially on residential buildings.
Typically it has fewer problems than the other two
applications.
The two primary manufactures of EPDM are Carlisle
and Firestone, but the product is sold under many
brand names. For example, Genflex, Mule-Hide, etc.
are distributors of EPDM who have re-named either
Carlisle or Firestone made EPDM.
Warranties vary ranging from 5 to 20 years, but sel-
dom are offered for residential applications. The mate-
rial is extremely durable, with little detectable wear in
25 to 30 years. The membrane will by far outlast
asphalt-based products. Failures are typically in laps,
flashing and around roof penetrations. The first EPDM
roof was installed in 1965, and reports indicate it is
still performing today!

Getting the most out of EPDM

EPDM membrane cannot be directly applied or be in
contact with any product containing coal tar pitch,
creosote or penta-based materials. Contaminants such
as petroleum grease, acid, solvents, vegetable or min-
eral oils and animal oils or fats will soften and
degrade the membrane.
This wet spot was a pin hole. Moisture in underlying
Asphalt based roof cements or mastics cannot be used substrate was being drawn out by the sun.
as a patch. Direct steam venting can also cause degra-
dation and should be avoided. Standing water or wet
leaves have no adverse effect on the membrane. In
fact, EPDM has been used for pond liners for years.
Nevertheless, ponding should not be allowed on any
flat roof. In other words, water should not remain on
a roof 48 hours after precipitation. Manu-facturers of
EPDM recommend a positive drainage system (1/4"
per foot). Over time ponding can exceed structural
design weight allowances. Also freezing over seams
can apply stress that may lead to seam failure.

Two common problems

EPDM has outstanding durability, but there have been
some problems. The two most common are shrinkage
and lap failures.
The membrane is prone to shrinkage (1-2 percent). On
a large roof this can add up to several feet of shrink-
age, which causes bridging and/or failures at flashing
and terminations. Typically, this problem only occurs
on a large building with a “ballast” system, and gener-
ally only if it was not anchored properly at the roof
perimeters and/or walls. A shrinkage problem is rare
on a fully adhered system or on a residential property.
The cause of the membrane shrinkage has been link to
one or a combination of the following factors:
• loss of processing oils,
• residual stresses from the manufacturing process,
and/or
• failure to allow the membrane to relax prior to
installing.
EPDM flashing at mechanical equipment with separation
in membrane – actual leak.
early uncured neoprene rubber used as flashing mate-
rial. Uncured neoprene rubber was used as flashing
because of its moldable (tacky) characteristics.
Unfortunately it had a short life span, and it was
known to fail after becoming brittle.
New technology (uncured) EPDM was then intro-
duced. Often called “Peel and Stick,” uncured EPDM
also is a tacky, moldable membrane, but it is known
to be reliable. The most recent recommendation is to
use uncured EPDM for only the most difficult mold-
able type applications, such as corners and penetra-
tions. Cured EPDM is recommended for all other
applications.

Prior to 1986 EPDM lap splice cements were made

Inspecting EPDM
with a neoprene polymer and laps occasionally failed.
Newer lap splice cements are butyl polymer and are Inspecting an EPDM membrane roof is much like
more reliable. Problems were also reported with the inspecting any flat roof. Identifying the single-ply can

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be tricky. It’s easy to confuse EPDM and PVC. PVC
feels slicker and firmer than EPDM, much like a vinyl
pool liner, and the seams are typically welded (heat
melted) together. Of course there are other types of
single ply membranes, but EPDM and PVC are the
two most likely to be confused on a single-family
home. If you are not sure what it is, you may be bet-
ter off calling it a single-ply membrane. Because
EPDM does not age like typical asphalt-based roof-
ing, it can be difficult to report how old it is. Some
manufacturers date EPDM membrane with a stamp,
which takes away the mystery. But most of the time,
it comes down to an estimated guess.

What to look for

Preferably the inspection starts from the attic and/or
under the roof. From this vantage point, you can look Corner reinforcement overlay with edge caulk
for stains and signs of leakage, and if possible, evalu-
ate the sheathing condition prior to walking on the
roof. Be watchful for and report rusty metal decking
on a commercial building.
Most residential applications will have plywood deck-
ing with insulation below the decking. Plywood spac-
ing must be maintained to allow for expansion. The
plywood should be fastened down with screws (heads
flush); use of “H” clips is not advisable. Ordinary
nails will back out and puncture the membrane, and
“H” clips will wear through.
Commercial applications will almost always have
insulation between decking and membrane. Insulation
must have adequate fasteners to deck or curling/lifting
of insulation will occur. On commercial roofs there is
often a double layer of insulation, with the bottom
mechanically fastened and the top stuck to bottom This is an access hole cut into EPDM flashed wall.
with hot asphalt or insulation adhesive. With this Electricians needed to get to wiring in a wall behind a mar-
method, you will not be able to see the imprint of quee sign. White caulk was not a proper fix.
mechanical fasteners. Each EPDM brand has its own
designed button fasteners, which is one way distribu-
tors identify their product after it’s installed, so you
will see several different shapes of fasteners in the
field.

Vents or no vents
There are two schools of thought regarding venting of
the EPDM membrane: some say ventilate, others say
there’s no need to do so. Typically ventilation is always
used on re-roof applications, but rarely seen on resi-
dential systems. The vents are intended to allow any
moisture trapped in the old roof to escape when heated
by the sun. Without this, the membrane will blow up
like a balloon. Generally, when the decking and insu-
lation is dry, venting is not always needed. Many
support the idea (including me) that “it’s better to
EPDM patch

3
have vents and not need them, than to need them and
not have them.” The placement of vents can vary, but
typically they are placed about every 20 feet. EPDM
manufacturers do not recommend or require vents.
They do require removing any wet roofing before re-
covering, and state that doing so eliminates a need for
vents. Manufacturers leave the decision to use a vapor
barrier and/or vents to the building designer and/or the
roofing contractor.
The lowdown on laps
If it seems soft under foot when you are walking on
the roof, there could be moisture problems in the
decking or insulation. Since laps can be a site of fail-
ure, check them as well as perimeter flashing closely,
looking for separations, wrinkles, or openings.
Manufacturer’s specifications on laps range from 3
inches to 8 inches, depending on the type of applica-
tion and the specific membrane. Recently manufactur-
ers are requiring laps to be sealed with a cured EPDM
seam tape on 20-year warranty systems. Seam tapes
make a premium splice and significantly increase
installation costs. EPDM laps more typically will have
a (black) splice cement with a required “Lap seal or
edge caulk,” which looks like a rubbery black caulk.
White splice cement and white caulk are available for
use on white membranes. Lap sealants are designed to
seal exposed edges on laps. The adhesive used to
attach EPDM to decking is yellow, and cannot be
used for laps.
Roof penetrations, wall flashing and anchor
bars
Roof penetrations may have a “pitch pocket or pan,”
which should be filled with an EPDM filler material
(not roof cement). Wall flashing is usually an EPDM
or a combination of EPDM and metal counter flash-
ing – check for an adequate seal, and check for secure
anchors or anchor bars. Anchor bars are made of
extrude aluminum (1" wide) and come in 10-foot
lengths. They are designed to hold membrane at walls
and perimeters for the ballast system, and are also
used in mechanical attached systems. Anchor bars
should have fasteners every 6 inches on perimeters
and every 12 inches when used as mechanical system
anchors.
Step by step, examine the roof
Check the entire roof for cuts, punctures and tears.
Look for raindrop-size moisture spots. If you find
one, look closely for a
pinhole. Sometimes if there is enough moisture in sub-
strate and there is a pinhole in the membrane, the
heat of the sun will draw the moisture out of the pin-
hole creating a moisture spot.
On a wet membrane, watch for air bubbles, which
indicate a breech in the membrane. On commercial
buildings, examine the areas around mechanical
equipment and vents. On the roof of a restaurant, the
greasy kitchen exhaust will often cause the membrane
to soften, wrinkle and degrade. Check parapet walls
and equipment curbs, looking for possible moisture
entry points or lack of caulk. Look closely around
mechanical fasteners for tearing. If the membrane is
taut at the perimeter it probably has shrunk. Use cau-
tion when walking to avoid causing tearing at the
mechanical fasteners.
Small bubbles or wrinkles in the membrane are typi-
cal. Bubbles form when the membrane is placed too
quickly, that is before the adhesive is ready for place-
ment. They are often more noticeable on newer roofs,
and many times disappear as the roof ages. Wrinkles
are easy to get as the membrane is placed, but diffi-
cult to get rid of, so often they’re ignored. Wrinkles
and fish mouthing should have been cut out and
patched, especially in laps. Wrinkles on laps and
flashings for openings should be checked carefully.
“T” joints in the membrane on a quality application
will have a reinforcing 6-inch patch, and all edges will
be caulked with lap seal. These joints require careful
scrutiny. Corners should also be reinforced with
patches, and all patches should have rounded corners
and be caulked with lap seal/edge caulk.
Roof systems with insulation require a wood nailer
around the eaves to provide a surface for attaching
drip apron or gravel stop flashing. Drip apron/gravel
stop flashing must have a minimum 3-inch flange and
be stripped off with a 5-6 inch EPDM membrane.
Plumbing pipe collars require a one-piece (target type)
This is an expansion joint between EPDM and modified
bitumen roofs.
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EPDM membrane installed around them - 6 inches on
all sides. Insulation on fully adhered systems must
have 16 fasteners per 4 x 8-foot piece, on mechanical
systems, six fasteners needed per piece. Fasteners are
not required on ballast systems; the ballast holds the
membrane down.
And that’s not all
Report bare spots in the ballast. Watch for shuffled,
displaced, deflected or loose insulation. Check for
bonding failure on fully adhered systems. Note any
loose mechanical fasteners and anchors, especially on
mechanical attached systems, and watch for tenting at
underlying fasteners, which indicates it has backed up
or that the insulation is overly compressed due to too
much roof traffic. On commercial buildings with
mechanical equipment, service trades will often acci-
dentally damage the membrane, so you’ll want to
check around roof-mounted equipment for damage or
oil spills.
One manufacturer claims that 95 percent of EPDM
failures are attributed to roof contractor error, 4.9
percent due to lack of care and maintenance of roof
and only 1 percent attributed to manufacturing
defects. Manufacturers recommend semi-annual
inspections of an EPDM roof that include looking for
all the obvious problems (failing seams or flashing,
etc.), checking any roof drains, removing debris from
roof, examining mechanical equipment for leaking
oils, ponding, etc. It would probably be wise for a
home inspector to recommend semi-annual inspec-
tions to the potential buyer."
John Cranor of Homebuyers Inspections, Inc. in Eastern
Virginia is a third–generation roofer. He is an ASHI
Member and serves on the Technical Advisory
Committee.
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