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A Creative Process in the Art

of Costume Design

Albert Rothenberg
Robert S. Sobel

Abstract
An empirical study of the psychology of creativity carried out over a period of more than 20 years has identified
"
a specific creative operation called "homospatial process. This process has been shown to have an important
function in various types of creative activities in the arts and sciences. As defined, the homospatial process consists
ofactively conceiving two or more discrete entities occupying the same mentally represented space or spatial location,
a conception leading to the articulation of new identities.
A technical method for facilitating homospatial thinking in costume design is described. This method involves
the use of slide transparencies superimposed on a projection screen from two separate light sources and reproduces
the effect of discrete entities occupying the same space. Specific examples demonstrate the feasibiltiy of using such
a technique to facilitate the creative process of costume design.

An understanding of the field of costume naturally


includes the artistic creative process of costume design. The Homospatial Process
However, the idea of a scientific approach to creativity is
fraught with difficulty. Although artists and others are
keenly interested in understanding and explicating the na- The homospatial process was identified through
ture of the creative process, there is a tendency to view the empirical scientific research with writers, visual artists, and
scientist’s attempts in this area as hopelessly reductionistic. scientists (Rothenberg, 1976). It consists of actively con-
Scientists themselves are concerned about such a danger ceiving two or more discrete entities occupying the same
with respect to their work and, in addition, they are con- mentally representedspace orspatiallocation, a conception
fronted with numerous conceptual difficulties in structuring leading to the articulation of new identities. Operating in a
valid studies. Moreover, when some clarifications and ex- wide variety of types of artistic and productive activity, the
planations do result, scientists may become interested in homospatial process may involve any of the sensory modali-
applying their findings to actual creative endeavors. Such ties. Discrete entities occupying the same spatial location
applications are often experienced as suspect and uncom- may be derived from any of the following sensory experi-
fortable to a viewer or an audience because they seem like ences : visual, auditory, tactile, olfactory, gustatory, and kin-

tinkering with the creative process, a process all strongly esthetic. As discrete entities cannot occupy the same space
admire and respect. Despite all these difficulties, scientific in physical reality, the homospatial process involves repre-
explication of creativity can lead to valuable and interesting sentations that superimpose or fuse or are otherwise brought
results. The present paper concerns an empirically discov- together into the same spatial location in the mind. Only in
ered thought process operating in creativity, homospatial the mind is it possible to defy intrinsic spatial characteristics
thinking, and a procedure for the application of this thought to this extent. Such representations are not stable, but mental
process in the field of creative costume design. images formed during the process of homospatial thinking
are quite fluid and dynamic. There is continual transforma-
tion and interaction until a new entity is formed. In science
this is usually a hypothetical or theoretical construct; in
literature, it is a metaphorical structure, an image, or more
extensive literary integration; the result in music can consist
Authors’Address: Albert Rothenberg, M.D., and Robert S. Sobel, of new musical patterns and themes. In the visual arts it is a
Ph. D., Austen Riggs Center, Stockbridge, MA 10262. new design, new shape and composition, or a rather com-

Acknowledgement: Dr. Julia J. Rothenberg, Wendy Menatti, and plete conception of a painting, sculpture, or building. In
Helen R. Linton for help with selection of photographs. costume design, as we shall describe below, it may also
produce new patterns and compositions as well as new fabric

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textures and blends. Evidence for the widespread impor- members of a particular family. For example, in attempting
tance ofthis particular mode of thinking in creative processes to construct the facial image of the prototypical criminal,
has been derived from extensive and intensive interviews he superimposed numerous faces of actual criminals on a
with outstanding creative persons in the arts and in science, photographic screen and then transformed these images into
from documentary historical material, and in direct experi- still photographs. A more recent investigation involving
mentation with talented persons in literature and visual arts superimposition of faces consisted of the use of a stereo-
(Rothenberg, 1979; Rothenberg, 1986; Rothenberg & Sobel, scope in a study of the cognitive meaning of perceived
1980; Sobel & Rothenberg, 1980; Rothenberg & Sobel, combined emotions by Hastorf, Osgood, and Ono (1966).
1981). These investigators used photographs of faces representing
The homospatial process, it should be emphasized, is an various emotional states; they superimposed them in order
intentional and conscious one. It is neither a mode nor a type to see if subjects would label the resulting images as compro-
of unconscious thinking, nor is it a product of an altered state mises between the components. Their results were indefinite
of consciousness. The fused and superimposed images do and inconclusive. Singer (1971) attempted to refine their
not arise or well up from an unconscious source. Discrete experiment by using a monocular presentation of rapidly
entities are brought together into the same space because the alternating versions of the facial images. Singer’s technique,
artist or scientist creator feels and believes that they ought to known as flicker fusion, overcame problems with the stereo-
be together and thus he actively produces a new integration. scope consisting of weakness of an image due to binocular
The homospatial process involves a complicated series of rivalry and dominance factors between the eyes. Results
events and mental activities in which discrete entities are were that judgments of such factors as pleasantness, control,
first selected, a dynamic fusion or superimposition then and activation of facial composites were intermediary be-
fleetingly occurs and, following that, the newly developed tween previously obtained judgments of the unaltered com-
image is related to a particular creative context. Although ponent images.
homospatial thinking is not the only psychological process In addition to psychological studies relating fusion and
involved in high level creativity, it appears to be an important superimposition of facial images to cognitive meaning, both
one. binocular fusion in the stereoscope and flicker fusion have
been well known practical and investigative techniques in
other fields. Flicker fusion is the basic mechanism of projec-
Superimpostition and Fusion tion of motion pictures, and the stereoscope is the tool for
exploring the binocular mechanism of three-dimensional
perception (Harris & Gregory, 1973; Ross, 1976; Rubin &
Although the fleeting phenomenon, the initial homospa- Walls, 1969).
tial construct (or conception) of discrete entities occupying Neither flicker fusion nor binocular fusion were appro-
the same space, is an internal mental representation, we have priate for representing the homospatial mental construct. In
attempted to externalize and reproduce it by means of a order to display two or more visual elements as occupying
technical procedure. Because visual imagery is more clear- the same spatial location, we used the full visual exposure of
cut than other types and because it appears to be a common a slide projector and screen because it allowed us to eliminate
factor in various types of creative endeavor, we have used any dominance or obfuscation effects. Most important, we
visual elements to reproduce internal mental images of enti- needed to select and match slide photographs in very specific
ties occupying the same spatial location. To do this, we have ways.
used positive transparencies and slide projectors. Because Most photographic scenes contain elements that domi-
positive transparencies, or slide photographs, allow for the nate perceptually over other elements, and an overall picture
possibility of transillumination, images can be projected tends to be perceived with particular elements in the fore-
onto a screen superimposed upon one another. Because ground and other elements in the background. Shape, clarity,
physical entities can retain their discreteness or at least their and thematic interest play a role in this, but we found that
salient identifying characteristics under such conditions of lighting played an especially important part. When bringing
superimposition, these projected images seem roughly to ap- together themes already having strong foreground and back-
proximate the homospatial mental representation. While ground features, it was crucial that the two be balanced in
they are somewhat diffuse and even difficult at first to view, foreground lighting particularly. In order for there to be a
they come closest to representing the unstable mental con- superimposition in which neither foreground feature nor
struct of two or more entities interacting. figural element predominated but in which each was recog-
Although superimposing photographic images is com- nizable and essentially equally perceived, it was necessary
monplace in the field of photography, it has never before that the lighting of the slides be carefully balanced. Gestalt
been used to study creative thinking or to facilitate creative psychological theory posits that all perceptual fields become
results outside of that field. Photographer-artists commonly organized into wholes having figure and ground relation-
use superimposition to produce various types of surrealistic ships. According to this theory, there would be no intermin-
photographic effects and even to suggest and evoke inner gling and interaction with the major elements of the slides
psychological experiences. In psychology only superimpo- appearing to be occupying the same space. Major elements .

sition of faces has been explored. This was done first by from each of the slides would in alternation be seen as the ,

Galton (1883). In an attempt to photograph prototypical figure while the rest became the ground. This would require
physiognomies, Galton superimposed multiple images of a constant shifting of the perceptual field rather than the
actual faces of persons of particular types such as the interaction of the major or figural elements which we pro-
following: criminals, sufferers from particular illnesses, and duced.

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are also in an intricate enough action position not to be
obscured.
By and large, it was necessary for scenes to contain
figures that occupied roughly similar outlines or else one
would clearly dominate over the other. In the example in
Figure 1, the bed and soldiers are located in comparable parts
of the respective photographs with background at the top and
the sides of each. Should the bed have been much smaller,
or should it have been angled from right to left rather than left
to right as shown, or should the background of one photo-
graph have been in another part of the scene than the back-
ground of the other photograph, there would not have been
a homospatial superimposition but an alignment of elements
into a newforeground and background image. Using figures
that are more similar than these, i.e., identical except for a
few essential characteristics, as will be shown presently in
the case of human forms and faces, produces the appropriate
superimposition effect, but some further conditions are re-
quired. In such cases it is vital that the similar objects fit
almost exactly upon one another. Otherwise, the more
dominant, i.e., visually distinct, face or form would appear as
foreground and the other primarily as background. Also,
there would be a disturbing sense of a distorted body image.
In all instances the guiding principle is to produce an image
of intermingled and interacting elements. The properly
superimposed image representing the homospatial construct
does not consist of a combination or compromise formation
between two or more elements, nor does it consist of a
domination of one element over the other; the two elements
are discrete and identifiable, but they interact to modify each
other and to affect the perception of each.
Beyond the discrete and identifiable elements, the over-
Figure 1. Superimposed image (top) of a bedroom scene (left, all superimposed image has its own particular visual fea-
bottom) and a war scene (right, bottom) demonstrat- tures. Thus, while the major elements of gas-masked sol-
ing equal balance and representation of foreground diers and period bed are readily visible and identifiable, new
figures. shapes and visual relationships appear in the superimposed
image that are derived from the interaction among the
component elements. There is a jagged, narrow white area
Figure 1 shows an example of a superimposed represen- running through the contrasting and related tones to the right
tation which we have used in experiments on creativity in of the image; the silhouetted soldier’s head at the top appears
literature and in the visual arts (Rothenberg & Sobel, 1980; continuous with the drapery at the head of the bed; the white
area of the bed is constricted and redistributed somewhat,
Rothenberg & Sobel,1981; Sobel & Rothenberg, 1980). On
the lower left and right are the individual scenes or images and the bed’s relationship to the floor area is changed. Also,
that were superimposed to produce the upper image. On the overall, there is mutual interaction and modulation among
lower left is a period bedroom with a four-poster bed in the the thematic elements. The fierceness of the soldiers is
foreground. On the lower right are gas-masked soldiers modified by the relationship with the bed, and the bed is
crouching by the side of a tank. In the foreground there are rendered more ominous and threatening. Because of the
three distinctly outlined soldiers and the wheels of the tank sexual connotations of a bed image and aggressive connota-
and, in the background, there is a fourth soldier in silhouette tions of the war scene, feelings, images, and thoughts are
together with indistinct portions of the tank and a bright evoked pertaining both to sex and to violence and to their
diffuse upper area. In the superimposed image at the top, interrelationships. Perhaps a simpler instance of the super-
both the soldiers and tank from the lower right hand scene imposed images we constructed, not shown here, consists of
and the four-poster bed from the lower left hand scene are a Saturn rocket launching from its pad superimposed upon a

recognizable. If the bed had been more vividly highlighted night scene of an illuminated house with a prominent chim-
or, alternately, if the soldiers were less shadowed and more ney (Sobel & Rothenberg, 1980). In that case the Saturn
distinct, one or the other foreground would have predomi- rocket appeared as though it were launched from the chim-
nated. The tones and values of the two slides are in relative ney of the superimposed house. On one hand, it seemed as
balance. Degree of detail in the scenes also needed to be kept though the fiery rocket were burning the house and creating
roughly equivalent. The drapery behind the bed and the havoc whereas, focusing on the house, the violence of the
ornamentation are intricate enough to command some fore- rocket seemed to be modulated by the quietness of the
ground attention in the superimposed image, and the soldiers domestic scene.

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Once the balancing of images is attained, there need be
no restriction whatsoever on subject matter. Naturalistic The Homospatial Process in Costume Design
scenes and pictures of faces, bodies, animals, as well as
complex objectless photographs can be projected and major
discrete elements superimposed upon one another. We have The series of photographs in the accompanying figures
carried out an experiment on the function of the homospatial shall serve to demonstrate the mode of facilitating the
process in the production of effective literary metaphors in homospatial process in the creative process of costume
which we used images of a supermarket superimposed with design. Figures 2 through 4 show the steps in constructing
a Bangkok river scene, a cloverleaf highway intersection the superimposed image as a representation of the homospa-
superimposed on a Norway countryside, a child looking into tial mental construct with respect to modelled articles of
a toy store superimposed on a guru in lotus position, a line of clothing. Figure 2 consists of a photograph of a model
chorus girls superimposed on a graveyard scene, and many wearing a 1948 style evening length dress with red voile
others. We also used some of these same superimposed bodice and white chiffon full skirt. In posing the model, care
images in an experiment on the creative process in painting. was taken that she stand in a specific place under controlled

The specific effect does not result when two images are lighting conditions, and that she look directly forward and
projected together from a single light source such as putting position her hands at her sides. No attempt was made to have
two slides in a cassette back to back or two drawings in an her look natural in the clothing nor to enhance any particular
overhead projector. The latter produces both additive and feature of the dress because the purpose of preparing the
subtractive effects in which colors and objects are changed; photograph was to superimpose this costume with another
figure and ground relationships occur, and there are transfor- one. We made no special effort to obtain a particularly
mations of the actual shape, or identity, that do not result stylish article of clothing but randomly used more than 100
from superimposition from two separate light sources. articles from an historical collection at the University of
Positive prints made from superimposed slide images often Connecticut (Storrs), Department of Fashion Design. The
do preserve the essential characteristic of an image of two following features of the dress should be noted: the skirt is
entities occupying the same space. However, because posi- quite full and billowing, the waist is high, and there is a sharp
tive prints cannot be transilluminated, such reproductions contrast between the patterned darker upper bodice and the
may appear rather flat and undynamic in visual quality in lighter toned skirt.
comparison with the superimposition produced with slides.

Figure 2. Model with a 1948 style evening dress. Figure 3. Model with 1949 style nightgown and bed jacket.

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Figure 3 consists of a photograph of the same model in dress of Figure 2 nor the nightgown and jacket of Figure 3
a different costume but posing in the same position and consisted of pantlegs, whereas in the new image there
under the same lighting conditions as in the previous figure. appears a suggestion of loose fitting pants. A new jacket also
She is wearing a 1949 style pale peach silk velvet nightgown appears in Figure 4 that differs sharply from the tops of both
with a matching bed jacket. Here, the bed jacket is short but component articles. The jacket manifests a high level waist-
it falls below the waist; the nightgown is loose but not line with a two-toned and loose fitting cuffed effect. Al-
billowing at all. though surely this image of a new costume is not complete
Both photographs are rather ordinary and the costumes and satisfactory as a new design in itself, it suggests and
themselves are primarily of interest from an historical point facilitates the development of a new entity or a costume
of view. The styles are distinctly different. The model and creation.
background in both photographs are identical so that only In addition to the new structures and images, there are
the images of the two costumes interact when the photo- some simpler additive, subtractive, and combination effects.

graphs are superimposed. As is clear from the hand posi- For example, in comparison to the dress in Figure 2, the
tions in the figure, it is not necessary for every portion of the overall width of the costume is reduced and a suggestion of
body to be absolutely aligned in order to produce the inter- a transparent sleeve area on both arms down to the elbows
action effect between the images of the costumes. In order has been added. While these results are less important and
to produce the superimposition effect illustrated by Figure 4, less suggestive in themselves, they do contribute further
color slide photographs of the images in Figures 2 and 3 are elaborations, in the total context, toward a new costume or
superimposed onto a projection screen. fashion idea.
The main point we would emphasize is that the super- Superimposing two costumes randomly in this manner
imposed image in Figure 4 suggests a new costume. This produces new patterns and images and a new overall effect.
costume is not merely a mixture or combination of features However, bringing discrete elements into the same spatial
of the previous two dresses, but it has new qualities and location, as represented by this photographic superimposi-
features of its own. The effect is not merely an additive or tion, is only one aspect-and a fleeting one-of the ho-
subtractive one in which a neckline is extended or a ruffle is mospatial process. After images such as this one are brought
added, but new characteristics are produced. Neither the together in the artist’s mind, they undergo numerous dy-
namic alterations and transformations until a new integration
of the elements is produced. The resulting creation is a
unified whole in which the discrete elements are intrinsically
interrelated with one another. In poetry, for instance, the
poet articulates superimposed images and homospatial
constructs into an effective metaphor in which the elements
interact with one another in an integrated whole. In the
metaphor &dquo;The sun, a serene and ancient poet, stoops and
writes on the sunrise sea,&dquo; produced from an image of a
Persian pink-turbaned poet superimposed on the sun, the
entire structure has a meaning and evokes associations con-
nected to sea voyages in mystical lands. Also, each major
element, &dquo;sun,&dquo; &dquo;serene and ancient poet,&dquo; &dquo;stoops and
writes,&dquo; and &dquo;sunrise sea,&dquo; as well as minor elements of
specific adjectives and verbs, interact and modify each other.
The idea of the &dquo;sun&dquo; suggests warmth and brightness, while
the &dquo;serene and ancient poet&dquo; in turn emphasizes the antiq-
uity and generativity of the sun as well as its soft qualities of
light. &dquo;Stoops and writes&dquo; also imparts a kind of active
movement to the sun at the same time as it gives the &dquo;ancient
and serene poet&dquo; a kind of sky-high stature. &dquo;Sunrise sea&dquo;
,interacts with &dquo;sun&dquo; and with &dquo;ancient and serene poet&dquo; and
so on. So, too, the creative clothing designer may articulate
the superimposed image into a developed style in which the
elements interact and are in balance in the context of the
entire costume. Upper and lower elements in Figure 4, for
instance, may modulate and balance one another.
Depending on the particular elements used, superimpo-
sition provides a virtually limitless range of new effects that
can be articulated into design creations. Figure 5 shows four
different components and superimposed images as follows:
Figure 4. Superimposition. Photograph of images of a model images of two different pairs of costumes (rows a and b)
with evening dress and with nightgown and bed jacket, super- brought together to produce the superimposed image in the
imposed together. This is not a fanal created style or fashion but third column, a new entity; one costume brought alternately
a step in the process. together with two different others (rows c and d) to produce

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Figure 5. Superimposition ei’t’ccts: (rows 11 and b) different costumes intermixed.

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Figure 5. Superimposition effects: (rows c and d) same costume with different intermixtures.

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Figure 6. Superimposition of an architectural object and a costume: (left) apartment building; (right) full length gown.

superimpositions in column three, which, in each case, are resulting fabric is both polka-dotted and patterned with a
new entities differing both from the components and from lavender color cast. Both the color design and the sleeves are
each other. The upper two rows, therefore, illustrate differ- different from the component dresses and are suggestive of
ent types of superimposition effects with different costumes new patterns.
while the lower two rows illustrate how a single costume can Row b of Figure 5 shows an even more drastic bringing
be alternatively superimposed with more than one other type together of elements into the same space because the styles
to produce new effects. One costume can, in this way, be are so radically different from each other. The dress in the

systematically brought together with numerous other types first column consists of a 1937 style navy print chiffon, knee
until its potentialities for evoking new integrations are ex- length with puff sleeves. In the second column the heavy
hausted. woolen plaid Mackinaw-type jacket comes from the year
The dress in the first row and column comes from the 1976 and is worn with navy pants and a turtleneck sweater.
year 1954. This sleeveless, calf-length dress has a gray and The superimposition effect with these two elements in the
light blue pattern containing ribbing on the bodice and skirt third column consists of the image of pedal pusher length
with a scooped neck. On the same row, in the second pants and a jacket top composed of an entirely new fabric.
column, there is a 1960 blue polka-dotted dress with double- This fabric, showing both plaid and floral designs interre-
breasted bodice, short kimono sleeves, accordion-pleated lated, is stimulating and evocative. Also, instead of the dark
skirt, matching belt, and a white Revere collar. This latter turtle neck sweater, there is a transparent lighter colored
dress shows the shorter knee length of the later year. Super- fabric with a high neckline.
imposing the two images in the third column produces a new In rows c and d on Figure 5, the same pant costume
length for the resulting garment that is both a derivation of appears in both second columns. This is a 1971 style kalei-
the shorter dress and a transparency from the longer one. doscope print wrap pant worn with a raspberry leotard top. In
Conversely, the transparent sleeves are derived from the row c, Figure 5, this pant costume is superimposed with,
shorter hemmed, longer sleeved dress together with the from the first column, a 1960 floral print mini tent dress made
visual effect of the longer hemmed, shorter sleeved one. The out of paper. The resulting image consists of a costume with

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superimposing costumes with architecture, flowers, land-
scape, etc. Figure 6 illustrates the effect of superimposition
of another costume with an architectural form. Shown on the
right bottom portion of the figure is a 1955 style teal blue
taffeta gown with a scoop neckline, fitted bodice, and dropped
waist. The building on the left bottom portion of the figure
is a red brick city apartment dwelling with a somewhat ornate
roof trim and outside steel fire escape structures. Superim-
posed with the gown, a new pattern with stately architectural
features is produced as a basis for a new design.

The Creative Process .

Although we purposely did not select elements that we


ourselves believed in advance would produce suggestive
new designs, the costumes depicted are surely new. Because
of evidence from other artistic fields, we suspect that the type
of superimpositions we have shown approximate events that
occur mentally in the most creative type of costume design.
After a dynamic interaction in the mind among the elements
of a superimposed image, various types of elaborations, al-
terations, and transformations then precipitate out and are
delineated. These result in new fabrics, completely new
styles, or sometimes a new modification of an old style. In
this way, a homospatial process in costume design operates
similarly as in other creative areas. In other visual arts,
bringing together discrete entities into the same space sug-
gests dynamic new relationships among visual shapes, forms,
colors and lines. These new relationships are then articulated
by the artist into new integrations in the form of paintings,
sculptures, or works of architecture. In other creative areas
such as poetry, there are other integrations and unifications.
Poets often choose two or more words which they feel ought
Figure 6. (Cont.) Superimposition of an architectural object to be related to each other, and they then mentally bring
and a costume. Building and gown superimposed. together images that include both the written words them-
selves and numerous associated sensory experiences, so that
all occupy the same mental space. From this image of super-
imposed words and sensory experiences together, they ar-
ballooning out shorts in a new fabric. This fabric has a white ticulate poetic metaphors. So, too, the creative costume de-
variegated pattern somewhat reminiscent of the kaleido- signer may mentally bring together into the same space
scope one of the original pants. Over the lower part of the clothing elements and items that he or she feels ought to be
legs there is a transparent pattern which could suggest a related to each other.
dress, a wraparound, or pants. On the top, the floral print The technological advantage of externalizing the super-
pattern has taken on a light raspberry color and a smoother imposed sensory image aspect of the homospatial process is
quality fabric style. that such concrete representation can facilitate creative ideas,
When the same pants with leotard top are superimposed even for accomplished designers. Also, photographs of
with a 1977 Mexican embroidered peasant dress with ankle apparel rather than mental images of them potentially en-
length skirt and puff sleeves in the first column of row d, the large the number and scope of elements that are brought
effect is less drastic. Produced instead is a rather simple and together into the same spatial location. In producing the
pretty floral figure design running down the center and images we have presented here, for instance, we first system-
shoulders of a raspberry top and pant combination. A new atically superimposed all of the photographs we had without
higher collar appears; thus, simple new effects also result any preconception about which pairs would be most appro-
from superimposing discrete elements. priate. After going through some 300 to 400 pairings, we
As long as one of two visual figures does not dominate selected the costumes and superimposed photographic im-
over the other but both appear to be occupying the same ages that seemed to illustrate best the effectiveness of the
space, the homospatial effect is produced. Consequently, it superimposition process. We do not ourselves pretend to be
is not necessary to limit the selection of images only to costume designers and feel sure that a professional designer
apparel forms. Indeed, a variety of features such as struc- would, at the outset, knowledgeably select particular fabrics,
tural, thematic, and pattern effects may be introduced by styles, and designs that would produce especially exciting

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new fashion. The first step of the homospatial process in all
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