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Front Brake Upgrade Kit some of our popular kits are shown below
HOLDEN
Commodore VB to VP 300mm and 330
Commodore VR to VS 300mm and 330
Holden HK to WB 300mm and 330
HR - Torana LC to UC 290mm and 330
Gemini TX to TG 300mm
FORD
Falcon XW to XF 300mm and 330
Cortina TE to TF 290mm
Cortina TC to TD 290mm
Escort MK1 and 2 290mm
Cortina/ Capri MK 1 & 2 300mm
Mustang II USA market 280mm /300mm/330mm
Customline 55 to 59 300mm
CHEV
Full Size 55 to 69 300mm and 330
Camaro/Firebird family 67 to 70 300mm and 330
Corvette C4 84 to 88 310mm and 330
VALIANT/MITSUBISHI
Valiant All with disc stubs 300mm and 330
Sigma GH to GK 300mm
Centura 6 cyl 300mm
MAZDA
RX2 / CAPELLA / RX3 / RX4 / 929 / RX7 290mm
STREET ROD
Ford genuine spindles 37 to 48 300mm
Reproduction spindles Rodtech /Rodcity (advise) 300mm
Founded by Peter
Koning in 1990, local demand soon had the business expanding. Having a long
history in hot rodding and qualifications in Mechanical Engineering, it wasn’t long
before more than a few interesting rods, customs and restorations came through the
workshop. Soon, Hoppers Stoppers was the “place” to have your collectible car fixed,
be it a simple service or full restoration. Old car brakes were always in demand and
quite a few modified cars were fitted with bigger brakes; at least whatever was
available at the time.
In the late 90’s, new cars began to use separate rotor/hub designs and with PBR
going to twin piston calipers on larger 300mm rotors with the VT introduction, a
range of adaptable brakes became available at affordable prices.
Today, many locally built cars use similar large PBR systems, offering us the ability
to engineer modern, available and economical upgrades for most popular cars.
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Brake Pads
Engineering Appraisal
Hoppers Stoppers regular upgrades are reviewed by a registration authority VASS
approved engineer. This ensures that the product is safe for installation on your
vehicle. You should contact us for advice on compatible master cylinder/booster and
rear brakes and where required; due to power train changes, have the finished
combination inspected by an approved VASS engineer.
As many types of friction materials, wheels, tyres and weights are possible, all final
combinations should be carefully tested to ensure good brake balance.
See the "do's and dont's" section for details on fine-tuning brakes.
Wheel Sizes
300mm (12-inch) rotor kits usually require minimum 15-inch wheels, and
330mm (13-inch) kits usually need 17-inch although some 16-inch may fit.
Ancillary
Included in Kit:
Pair 300 mm Disc Rotors and Twin Piston Calipers
Set Semi – Metallic Brake Pads
Pair Conversion hubs made from K1045 Billet steel fitted with bearing
cups and wheel studs
Pair custom Brake Hoses and copper washers
Full Fitting Instructions
You need to have at least 15" rims to fit this conversion. We also suggest a 1" bore
Master Cylinder (Turbos and later V8 Commodores have these as standard).
Priced from $840 Smooth, $940 Slotted, $990 Drilled and Slotted.
Included in Kit:
Pair 300 mm Disc Rotors and Twin Piston Calipers
Set Semi – Metallic Brake Pads
Pair custom Brake Hoses and copper washers
Full Fitting Instructions
Priced from $540 Smooth, $640 Slotted, $690 Drilled and Slotted.
You need at least 17" rims for this conversion and also a 1" bore Master Cylinder if
not already fitted.
Priced from $1300 Smooth, $1400 Slotted, $1500 Drilled and Slotted
EARLY HOLDENS – HK to WB
Included in Kit:
Pair 300 mm Disc Rotors and Twin Piston Calipers
Set Semi – Metallic Brake Pads
Caliper mount kit with Bolts
Pair Conversion hubs made from K1045 Billet steel fitted with bearing
cups and wheel studs
Pair custom Brake Hoses and copper washers
Full Fitting Instructions
Priced from $1200 Smooth, $1300 Slotted, $1350 Drilled and Slotted.
Priced from $1600 Smooth, $1700 Slotted, $1800 Drilled and Slotted.
Priced from $1200 Smooth, $1300 Slotted, $1350 Drilled and Slotted.
Priced from $1200 Smooth, $1300 Slotted, $1350 Drilled and Slotted.
Priced from $1200 Smooth, $1300 Slotted, $1350 Drilled and Slotted.
Priced from $1600 Smooth, $1700 Slotted, $1800 Drilled and Slotted.
Priced from $1200 Smooth, $1300 Slotted, $1350 Drilled and Slotted.
View of hub and adapter bracket, prior to fitting of rotor and caliper.
You need at least 16" rims for 315 and 17inch for 330mm for this conversion.
Priced From $1600 Smooth, $1700 Slotted, $1800 Drilled and Slotted.
CORTINA
TE-TF (4 & 6 Cylinder) TC/TD is similar.
Included in Kit:
Pair 290 mm Disc Rotors and Pair Twin Piston Calipers
Set Semi – Metallic Brake Pads and Caliper mount kit
Pair Conversion hubs made from K1045 Billet steel fitted with bearing
cups and wheel studs
Pair custom Brake Hoses and copper washers
Full Fitting Instructions
You need to have at least 15" rims to fit this conversion and you must fit a 1" bore
Master cylinder to obtain the best pedal feel.
Please consult us for advice for your application.
Included in Kit:
Pair 300 mm Disc Rotors and Pair Modified Twin Piston Calipers
Set Semi – Metallic Brake Pads
Caliper mount kit
Pair Conversion hubs made from K1045 Billet steel fitted with bearing
cups and Genuine Holden wheel studs
Pair custom Brake Hoses and copper washers
Full Fitting Instructions
Priced from $1200 Smooth, $1300 slotted, $1350 Drilled and Slotted.
You need to have at least 15" rims to fit this conversion and you must fit a 1" bore
Master cylinder to obtain the best pedal feel.
Please consult us for advice for your application.
You need to have at least 15" rims to fit this conversion and you must fit a 1" bore
Master cylinder to obtain the best pedal feel.
Please consult us for advice for your application
You need to have at least 15" rims to fit this conversion and you must fit a 1" bore
Master cylinder to obtain the best pedal feel.
Please consult us for advice for your application.
55 – 59 Ford Customline
Included in Kit:
Pair 300 mm Disc Rotors and Twin Piston Calipers
Set Semi – Metallic Brake Pads
Caliper mount kit
Pair Conversion hubs made from K1045 Billet steel fitted with bearing
cups and Genuine wheel studs
Pair custom Brake Hoses and copper washers
Full Fitting Instructions
Priced from $1300 Smooth, $1400 slotted, $1450 Drilled and
Slotted.
You need to have at least 15" rims to fit this conversion and you must fit a 1" bore
Master cylinder to obtain the best pedal feel.
Please consult us for advice for your application
Booster and master cylinder kits with adapter brackets and clevis incl
hoses and fittings from $620 to suit Mustang Chev 55-58, Camaro,
Call for details
Brake Pads and Disc Rotors make the heat that stops the car
Brake Pads are manufactured from fibres, metals and binders chosen for their friction
properties. Essentially, all heat the pads generate has to be passed into the disc rotor.
The pad itself has to be able to handle the extreme heat generated but it is not
expected to do much towards dissipating the heat, as its all done by the disc rotor.
A larger pad surface area is required for reducing the specific heat load; a very small
pad would become extremely hot, even if running against a large rotor. It therefore
follows that the key to stopping a heavy car is good ability to absorb and then
dissipate heat before being called upon to do it all again. If the system is not
sufficiently cooled, fade will occur. The type and quality of the cast iron, the design of
the internal cooling vents and the surface friction characteristics of the rotor all have
an influence.
Calipers make the forces to push the pads onto the disc. Hydraulic pressure from the
master cylinder is converted to force on the pistons and act on the pads to apply
friction to the rotors.
Replacing a single piston caliper with a four small piston with the same size pads will
have only a small effect. However when fitting a larger rotor, you can get the best
from them by having a larger pad; but applying a greater force via a single piston can
cause the pad to bend in the middle. Therefore the recent trend to twin piston/four
piston calipers which allow greater force and more even loads on the pad.
Pressure = Force
Area
Modified cars are often concoctions of different sources of parts, with one brand of
master cylinder with a different brand of booster and so on. Sometimes they appear to
bolt straight together but looks can be deceiving.
You must ensure that the output push rod at the booster is correctly set to the master
cylinder so that there is no free play, but also that the seals within the master are fully
returned past their ports so that the brakes will release. The push rod may need
lengthening or shortening to suit. As little as 1mm will make a big difference to initial
pedal take up travel. The booster input shaft should not be preloaded but should have
minimum free play too. On disc brakes, you can check that the master cylinder is not
over adjusted by opening a brake bleeder. It should drip under gravity if all the ports
are unobstructed. If not, the brakes will drag, get hot and lock on.
Brake Boosters
Brake Vacuum Boosters act by using atmospheric air to assist the force on the master
cylinder. When not in use, both sides of the diaphragm are under vacuum from the
engine. When applied, the central valve closes and the valve closest to the firewall
opens allowing a shot of air in to push on the diaphragm.
Generally, and particularly on heavy cars, disc brakes will require boosting or pedal
pressures will be too high. Lighter cars or older types with high friction asbestos type
pads were used but with still high pedal efforts.
Brake Hoses
ADR 7 requires that automotive brake hoses be fully fatigue tested, manufactured in a
way that they cannot be taken apart and pressure tested to 3000 PSI (20,000 KPA).
Amongst other things, stainless braided hoses swell less under pressure, particularly
when hot, giving better pedal feel, but the types which are assembled at home and not
pressure tested are not street legal.
Brake Piping
Most automotive brake piping is 3/16-inch O/D or ¼-inch O/D plated steel seamless
tube with doubles flares or ball flares (drill point seats). Under no circumstances make
automotive brake lines with singles flares. Copper lines are unsuitable due to fatigue
hardening. All approved automotive brake fluid connections are based on positive
compression seals, flares, flat copper sealing washers and lately, positive o-ring quick
connect seals. No new car was ever produced with a taper thread fitting (ie. needing
sealing compound or Teflon tape). Some aftermarket calipers are sold with taper
thread connections and their acceptability with ADR’s is therefore debatable. Check
every connection for brake fluid leaks before driving the car.
Proportioning Valves
A well-designed brake system should always lock the front first. If the rear wheels
lock, the car will spin around. The purpose of rear proportioning valves is to ensure
that line pressure cannot rise to the point of rear lock up. Up to that point, front and
rear line pressures are usually the same. A proportioning valve is not a band-aid for a
badly balanced system.
1. Don’t mix up calipers, left to right, bleeders always go to the top to get the air out
(some older European and English cars were built to be bled backwards, making it
hard to do at home). Modern cars always bleed air at the top.
2. When trouble shooting a soft pedal, clamp all hoses, taking the clamps off one at a
time until you find where the softness is coming from. If you still have a problem
with all lines clamped, then the master cylinder is the cause. If the pedal goes
hard, it is fine. Sometimes the hose itself can be swelling.
3. New brake pads running on worn/tapered discs will cause softness until they wear
to match and the springiness goes away. Machine discs when fitting new pads.
4. It is well proven that undersized discs do not cool well and warp quickly. Do not
use when below minimum for safety and legal reasons.
5. Check master cylinders for residual valves when converting to discs. These valves
are meant to stop air sucking past wheel cylinder cups but will make discs drag.
Early American Corvette calipers can suck air and therefore need light pressure,
special residual valves, all modern calipers are fine with none. If not sure, do the
dripping bleeder test.
6. Never get any hydrocarbons, oil, kerosene, petrol etc. near brake parts – brakes
use special rubbers, which swell dramatically when contacted by hydrocarbons.
Wash brake parts in Methylated Spirits or Brake Clean Fluid and lubricate with
brake rubber lubricant (silicon based), or brake fluid during assembly.
7. Fitting new seals to used master and slave cylinders is not always successful. Bore
wear, scratches and corrosion usually mean reduced life of rebuilds. Buy a new
assembly or have yours stainless sleeved if necessary.
8. Cheap brake pads are a false economy; they wear quickly and do not stop as well.
9. A reaction disc is a small rubber disc which lives under the head of the booster
output push rod. If this is lost, the brakes will be nearly uncontrollable with
stopping proportional to pedal position, not pedal effort, sending you through the
windscreen at the lightest touch.
10. With all modified systems, check everything for clearance, through all suspension
travel and lock to lock, particularly brake hoses and calipers versus cross members
and sway bars etc. on lock.
11. When converting a four-wheel drum type car to front discs (retaining original rear
brakes), it is necessary to fit smaller rear wheel cylinders to reduce rear brake
effort, as the front discs are not self-energising.