Introduction to printing 1

1 Introduction to printing
Learning objectives
At the end of this lesson you will be able to:

• describe how modern day printing systems have evolved

• compare the fundamental differences between dyeing and printing.
Before reading the following notes refer to Reference 1 on pages 1 -
17.

Before continuing reading you should consider the following:

What was the first reported textile printing technique?

Block printing
The answer to the above question is block printing.

Here, clay, terracotta and wooden blocks containing raised designs on

their surface are used to create an 'impression' on the fabric. Ink or
colour is applied to the raised surface and the design in relief is
transferred to the fabric by applying pressure to the reverse side of the
block.

Refer to Reference 1 Figure 1.2 on page 9 which depicts two types of

wooden block.

A single block containing one part of the design in repeat has to be

produced for each separate colour of a multi-colour design. Production
of the designs requires skilful craftsmen taking considerable time to
produce.

Refer to Reference 1 Section 1.2.1 on pages 8 - 9 which outlines the

technique for producing a printing block.

Textile Printing Technology

Section 1 Lesson 1
© Society of Dyers and Colourists 2005. All rights reserved
2 Introduction to printing

Before continuing reading you should consider the following:

1. Write your own brief notes on block printing.

2. Do you think block printing is used today?

Block printing is still carried out where large libraries of blocks exist. It
is a slow process and therefore only applied to printed fabrics which
can demand a high price. The main feature of the technique from a
design element is that the printer’s skill determines the fitting of the
design in 'repeat'. It is not uncommon for each repeat of the design to
be slightly different from the previous repeat and is one feature which
makes Block printing a desirable 'traditional' technique.

Mechanisation of relief printing

Apart from the methods described in Reference 1 Section 1.2.4, a
further method of relief printing is the rubber roller technique.

It can be likened in its crudest form to 'potato' printing where a design is

cut into the potato, ink applied to the raised section and the potato
pressed against the substrate whereby an ' impression' or print results.

Relief printing is often termed flexographic printing, a technique also

used for printing paper. Here the rubber coated cylinders have the
design cut into them in relief. The colour is transferred to the cloth by
means of pressure applied against a plain roller.

Often a double sided or 'duplex' print is produced where the rubber

rollers containing the design in relief run in tandem face to face and are
pressed together to print both sides of the fabric at the same time.

Despite developments in laser engraving which has allowed improved

quality of designs, this technique generally gives cruder quality of prints
due to the difficulty in achieving fine lines. It may be used for producing
prints for the low quality stitch bonded furnishing market.

Further reading on flexographic printing can be found in Reference 1

Section 3.2.2 on page 65.

Textile Printing Technology

Section 1 Lesson 1
© Society of Dyers and Colourists 2005. All rights reserved
 Introduction to printing 3

Engraved roller printing

This technique is often termed gravure printing when used for printing
paper. The rollers are usually hollow cylinders of cast-iron that are
coated with copper, in which the design is engraved and subsequently
chromium plated to protect the soft copper from damage.

The techniques of engraving the copper will be discussed in a later

lesson. For printing, the cylinders are mounted on steel mandrels.

Refer to Reference 1 on pages 11 - 17 then answer the following

question.

Before continuing reading you should consider the following:

1. Write your own brief notes on copper roller printing.

2. What noticeable comparisons can you make between block and

roller printing?

3. Identify two problems with each technique.

Further reading on roller printing can be found in Reference 1 Section

3.2.2 on page 64.

Screen printing
The use of screens for textile printing offers the printer many
advantages over the block and copper roller methods. Silk mesh was
used as an early medium hence the term 'silk screen printing'.

The silk was stretched over a frame, originally made of wood which
could be of any size to facilitate a large repeat. The technique can be
likened to simple stencil printing. Paper stencils were used to apply the
design in negative and a suitable stable paint medium used to create
the design on screen.

Once the screen has been made, colour is subsequently applied to the
screen and some means of pressure applied to force the colour
through the woven mesh. The design is thus transferred to the fabric
via the open mesh areas.

The development of modern day flat screen printing essentially ran in

tandem with improvements in the screens. The availability of
hydrophobic yarns with high tensile strength such as polyamide and

Textile Printing Technology

Section 1 Lesson 1
© Society of Dyers and Colourists 2005. All rights reserved
4 Introduction to printing

polyester, used with metal frames, replacing the traditional wooden

materials, together contributed towards a more stable screen.

This technology enhancement allowed automation of the flat bed

technique which provided some increase in the speed of printing when
compared to hand screen printing methods.

Fabric is stuck down with a suitable water soluble adhesive or

permanent adhesive onto a moving carrier called a blanket. In hand
screen printing the screens are moved along the table and the fabric is
stationary whereas in automated flat screen printing the blanket carries
the fabric under the screens which remain in fixed positions.

Even in automated systems the technique of flat screen printing is

intermittent but all the colours are applied simultaneously. Note that
there is very little time for each colour to dry before the next colour is
applied.

Now read Reference 1 Sections 2.2 to 2.3.6 on pages 21 - 31

Before continuing reading you should consider the following:

1. Write your own notes on automatic flat screen printing.

2. What are the advantages and disadvantages of this technique?

Rotary screen printing

One of the main limitations of flat screen printing is the relatively slow
production rate, due to the intermittent nature of the printing process.
Greater print speeds, closer to those of copper roller machines,
required a truly continuous screen printing technique.

Rotary screen printing is based on the principal of using a cylindrical

screen carrying the design. These rotate in contact with the fabric
allowing faster production rates when compared to flat screen methods.

In rotary screen printing the colour is fed from within the screen as
shown in Reference 1 Figure 2.9 on page 31. This diagram shows
different types of colour application from inside the screen. As with flat
screen printing the use of magnetic rods is possible and squeegee
blades are also used.

Textile Printing Technology

Section 1 Lesson 1
© Society of Dyers and Colourists 2005. All rights reserved
 Introduction to printing 5

In the majority of rotary print machines using the squeegee type

system a stainless steel blade is used as rubber blades suffer rapid
abrasion.

Now read Reference 1 on pages 31 - 34. A typical rotary screen

machine is shown in Figure 2.10 on page 32.

Before continuing reading you should consider the following:

Do you think the rotary screen method limits the size of the repeat?

The repeat of the design is limited to the circumference of the screen,

the 64 cm standard nickel screen being the most common. However,
larger screens are available and, for very large repeats, two screens
may be used in conjunction.

Now read Reference 1 on pages 35 - 36.

Note that a continuous dryer is an essential part of rotary screen

printing.

Differences between dyeing and printing

An obvious difference is the artistic component of printing, especially in
the design creation process. The fundamental similarity with dyeing is
that time is required for the dye to penetrate into the fibre and unfixed
dye must be removed by washing.

(i) The dyeing process

In its simplest form ehaustion dyeing involves taking a suitably

prepared material e.g. cotton producing a dyebath of dyestuff plus
dyeing aids e.g. electrolyte and buffers and applying the dye in an
appropriate machine e.g. jet, jig, beam, etc.

Dyeing is carried out using a specific cycle of temperature and time

appropriate to the dye and fabric type. After dyeing the coloured fabric
is often soaped, reduction cleared or after treated to develop the true
shade and achieve fastness. The fabric is then dried, stentered to width
and finished etc.

Before continuing reading you should consider the following:

Textile Printing Technology

Section 1 Lesson 1
© Society of Dyers and Colourists 2005. All rights reserved
6 Introduction to printing

Think in terms of reactive dyeing of cotton. Write down the dyeing

process by means of a simple process flow diagram.

(ii) The printing process

Preparation of the print paste

A printing paste differs from a dye liquor in that less water is used. The
dye paste for printing also needs to be at a viscosity to ensure sharp
definition of the printed area, hence a thickened liquor is needed.

Due to the relatively short time available for fixation it is often

necessary to add humectants or fixation accelerators to the paste.
Dependant on the dye class and fibre used, fixation conditions with
relatively short dwell times at high temperatures afford dye fixation.
Wash-off differs because of the need to prevent staining of areas
adjacent to the printed areas.

In printing reactive dyes on cotton the process can be thought of in

simple terms as:

1. Prepare print paste

2. Print
3. Dry
4. Fixation process
5. Wash-off
6. Stenter finish.

As with reactive dyeing we are using similar dyes although dyes of high
solubility are most suitable and whilst powders can be utilised liquid
types are often preferred by the printer for ease of dispensing and
mixing.

Auxiliaries are used, some as with reactive dyeing, for example alkali is
needed. Others such as Urea are often added as a humectant. Alkali
stable thickening agents are used to produce a printable viscosity.

Printing

After printing by screen or other means the material is dried. In this

state the reactive dye print is simply laying on the surface of the fabric
held within the dried thickener paste.

Textile Printing Technology

Section 1 Lesson 1
© Society of Dyers and Colourists 2005. All rights reserved
 Introduction to printing 7

Fixation

Fixation of the dye takes place during a relatively short dwell time.
Steaming or dry heat fixation methods are possible, however, steam
fixation at atmospheric pressure is preferred.

Wash-off

Fixation is followed by a wash-off. Washing of reactive prints is similar

to that of dyeing i.e. at temperatures at or near the boil with soap. As
outlined earlier in the lesson care must be taken to prevent back
staining of unfixed dye onto adjacent print areas or the white fabric and
auxiliaries may be used for this purpose

Reactive printing will be discussed in greater detail in a subsequent

direct colouration lesson in Section 3.

Activity 1

Write down what you consider are the fundamental differences

between dyeing and printing.

The answer is on page 8.

You have now reached the end of this lesson.

Reference:

1. Miles, L W C (ed) Textile printing, 2nd edition Bradford: SDC (1994)

Textile Printing Technology

Section 1 Lesson 1
© Society of Dyers and Colourists 2005. All rights reserved
8 Introduction to printing

Answers to activities
Activity 1

They differ in a number of areas:

• Print paste preparation - e.g. higher viscosity

• Fixation conditions

• Possibly wash-off

Textile Printing Technology

Section 1 Lesson 1
© Society of Dyers and Colourists 2005. All rights reserved