Air Modeller 76

AIR 76 cover BLACK GREEN.
qxp_Layout 1 12/01/2018 14:49 Page 1
76
FEB/MARCH 2018 • £6.50 UK $15.99
www.mengafvmodeller.com
FEBRUARY / MARCH 2018
Eduard’s new
MENG AIR MODELLER
Fw 190 A-4
WINTERWONDERWULF
AIR 76 Feb/March 2018.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 11/01/2018 11:21 Page 222
CONTENTS
2 Eduard’s new Fw 190 A-4
Paolo Portuesi throws all the goodies at this fantastic forty-eighth Fokker .
10 Russian Bear
Lorenzo Borgesa takes the 1:72 Modelsvit B-12 kit to the limit.
20 Bella Ballila part 2

The Editor continues his build of the Aviattic 1:32 Ansaldo A.1
26 SU 27 Flanker B
Grega Krizman finds out what’s involved to correct Academy’s 1:48 kit.
36 King Cobra part 1

Andrea Vignocchi’s stunning 1:72 super-detailed Super Cobra
46 Air Borne
New releases.
56 Midnight Mossie
Richard Camoin’s build of HK’s 1:32 mighty Mosquito.
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1
Many experts believed that radial engined Eduard is one of the few companies prepared to
fighters would lose performance caused by too revisit kits and improve them. This is the second
much drag, but the Fw 190 proved otherwise. 1:48 Fw 190 from this company, and it is a
Commonly believed to be the best fighter completely new kit.
aircraft of World War II, the Fw 190 had such a About ten years ago, Eduard released their
big impact on the Luftwaffe air operations it was original 1:48 scale kit of this German fighter. It
manufactured in over forty different models to was a very engaging model just straight out of
fulfil a variety of roles. The FW 190 started out the box. The cowl was a multi-part affair
as a low altitude high speed fighter with better showing a full engine. As a result, it was a quite
armament than the early Allied counterparts. complex build. Now, with a much greater
Since the air battles over France until the end of experience in manufacturing full kits, Eduard
the war, the Fw 190 was extensively employed have returned to the same subject releasing
replacing many fighter and ground attack what feels to me as one of the best kits today
aircraft. The air cooled radial engine of the Fw available in this scale. The simplification of the
190 offered a couple of advantages over the parts breakdown and is the most evident
water cooled engines equipping the Luftwaffe’s difference in comparing the old and new kits
other ubiquitous fighter, the Bf 109. The first because in this second release the fuselage
advantage was that it could take a lot of halves extend all the way to the engine cowling.
damage and keep running. The second The basic version of the kit is indeed a simple
advantage was that its huge size helped to build but for those of us who want more Eduard
shield the pilot in combat. Additionally, radial have also released a fantastic range of
aircraft offered more simplicity in their upgrades...how could I resist?
manufacture and operation.
2
3
Giving the lack of open cowls the new kit’s

engine is quite simplified, represented only
by the front cylinder bank moulded on a
bulkhead. Hiding behind the cooling fan and
the narrow cowl, this simple part is more than
adequate for a ‘buttoned up’ model. The cowl
guns and the engine exhausts are separate
parts so we can hope for other versions from
Eduard. Another very important difference is the
shape of the fuselage, modified to increase the
level of accuracy. Just to give an example, the
edge of the vertical tail, something criticized in the original
release for being too thick, now looks much thinner. Also the
wings are very different from earlier releases.
No wing gun bay details are provided given that the covers are
moulded closed. The one piece lower wing incorporates a
large section of the belly, something very convenient when
mating wing and fuselages together. With the exception of the
flaps, all the control surfaces are separate and posable. Wheel
wells include a recessed cover, some small separate detail
parts, the wing gun barrels, and a long spar.
Another interesting feature of this new 1:48 Fw 190 A-4

(82142) is the great detail of the undercarriage legs and the
wheel hubs which are moulded separate from tyres. Out of the
box the cockpit is rich in detail, even the floor and the area
behind the pilot’s seat are very nice. Eduard provides three
options for both the instrument panel and side consoles. The
first option is plastic parts with moulded dial controls and
switches. The second option is smooth plastic parts to receive
decals. The third option is smooth
panels to be detailed with photoetched
parts.
Different transparent parts are provided

for open and closed canopies. Pre-
coloured etched parts include belts,
control panels and other small controls.
Finally, decals include all stencils and
markings for five different aircraft.
Removing the engine cowls is

the only tricky part of the
4
project requiring careful
scribing and cutting.
It’s true that in this new ‘Profipack’ release a full engine is missing, that so little will be visible after joining together the fuselage
it is also true that Eduard has promptly released a full series of halves. This super detail set is made up of an etched sheet and
super detail sets in the ‘Brassin’ range to spruce up this 1:48 Fw over twenty incredible cast resin parts. Building the cockpit was a
190 to a level so far unseen by any other company. I like this very easy process. First I painted all the small details and the main
approach because gives the modeller the choice of a straight cockpit parts according to the instructions, then I washed all these
build or of a more complex super-detailed one. Given my parts with some Burnt Umber oil paint and finally I applied some
predilection for open cowls and engines, I decided to build this kit very basic dry brushing, just to highlight the most visible upper
taking advantage of four of the Brassin detail sets just released by parts, using some Humbrol Gun Metal (56). The supplied etched
Eduard: the Fw 190A-4 engine & fuselage guns (648355); the Fw dashboard needs only to be carefully placed on the corresponding
190A-4 cockpit (648351); the Fw 190A propeller (648366), the Fw resin part. The same is true for the construction the very delicate
190 resin wheels early (648152), and the Fw 190A-3/A-4 bronze etched pedals and the seat belts, as usual I painted these in
undercarriage legs (648367). The reason why I opted for the Gunze Sail Colour (H85) and then heavily washed with the same oil
bronze undercarriage legs was not so much for the increased level paint used for the cockpit tub and side consoles. However, while
of detail, but mostly out of the worry that given the increase in the cockpit goes far beyond in terms of detail and accuracy, what
weight, due to all these resin parts, the original plastic parts would impressed me most with this project was the engine and guns
not stand the test of time. detail set. I was ready for plenty of resin and etched parts, but I
was pleasantly surprised by the fit and ease of assembly resulting
As usual with World War II fighters, building starts in the cockpit. in stunning detail.
Honestly, unpacking the Brassin parts I could not stop regretting
5
The most difficult part of this project was cutting the fuselage probably mating the fuselages to the wing, given that these parts
halves to receive the engine. My suggestion is to deepen the perfectly mate together. At this point I decided to first paint the
relevant panels with a very sharp needle and then cut them apart main airframe surfaces, before gluing the engine and the fuselage
with a sharp razor blade. The easiest part of this build was together.
Wheel well detail is very nice and

responds well to a dark wash.
Heavily diluted gloss

white allowed a gradual
Basic camouflage was applied which will be build-up, note the non-
subtly visible under the winter white over-paint. uniform finish.
Painting was done according to the instructions. For the metallic

Note the finesse of the rivet
parts I used just two Alclad colours, White Aluminium and Semi and panel detail, a dark
Matte Aluminium (ALC-106 and ALC-116). Painting the exhaust wash lifts this beautifully.
pipes was a little more complicated, it was a four stage process.
Initially I painted them in Gunze Flat Chocolate Brown (H-406),
afterwards I washed only some areas with brown oil paint, so to
give some shading, then I dry brushed all these parts with a
mixture of Gunze Russet (H-33) just lightened with a touch of
Gunze Yellow (H-4), and finally they were sprayed with some
Gunze Flat Clear (H-20), Like in the case of the cockpit, these two
detail sets are jewels. Required clean-up is minimal and following
the well designed instructions makes for very rewarding modelling.
Of all the five markings available out of the box my choice was the
second one, an aircraft over painted in white, even if a white
scheme is always a challenge. Given that aircraft was originally
camouflaged in the typical RLM 74/75/76 scheme, I first
camouflaged my ‘190 using the corresponding Gunze colours.
After masking the spot on the wings where are supposed to
receive the national insignia, I randomly airbrushed some very thin
layers of Gunze Gloss White (H-2) until I was happy with the look
of the slightly transparent finish. When the white was dry, I washed
the entire airframe with some very thinned brown oil paint
removing the excess with fine tissues quickly. It is very important
that the over painted white is very glossy and very dry otherwise
the oil was will tint the white and appear dirty. The last step in the
camouflage process was to scratch away some of the white paint
from the wings using a very fine 3000 wet abrasive paper.
As expected, the decals went on flawlessly.
6
Eduards own Brassin

range of upgrades for
the kit offer stunning
detail and fit beautifully.
The airbrushed exhaust stains

offer an interesting contrast to
the winter white finish. Note the
exhausts in their base colour.
7
8
My conclusion is that I can only say in terms

of ease of assembly and accuracy this new
Fw 190 outclasses any other kit of this
aircraft currently on the market. While
specially designed super detail sets are not
only rich in amazing detail, but for once are
also easy to assemble and add to the base
kit. This is not my first Fw 190 in 1:48 and
certainly it will not be the last given that I
am looking forward to other version of this
same kit from Eduard.
This kit is a joy from the moment you open

the box to placing the last part, even a
newcomer to the hobby should have no
issues assembling the basic version of the
model as the design and fit is excellent
throughout.
9
Lorenzo Borgesa super-details the Modelsvit kit
10
Be 12
The Be-12 was born from the need to increase the performance and
operating capabilities of the Beriev Be-6 which had served Soviet Navy
aviation since the early 1950s. Following the deployment of the next-
generation US submarines, the Soviet Navy decided to equip itself with a
larger aircraft with an adequate weapons load and the ability to install
new and more efficient detection devices, including the electromagnetic
anomaly detector (MAD). The Beriev OKB continued to develop the Be-6
with two turboprop engines instead of the previous piston motors, this
development was designated Be-12 and the first prototype flew for the
first time on October 18, 1960.
The Ukrainian firm Modelsvit has finally produced the only 1:72nd plastic
kit of the Be-12, as an alternative to this, there is only the dated and
expensive RVHP resin model. This is a high quality short-run kit, with well-
rendered shapes and proportions and well-moulded details so that most
of them can be used without having to resort to major corrections. Panel
lines are very fine and generally regular, except in some places where
they appear too subtle and almost absent. The fuselage halves, due to
their length, are divided into two parts each requiring some care during
the assembly to avoid unwanted breakage during construction. The
interior parts are limited to the cockpit and the front and rear observer
positions. The transparent parts are very fine and clear and also come
with a set of self-adhesive masks to help during painting. Inside the box
we also find a small photo-etched sheet and three rubber tyres.
The decals are very fine and well-printed and allow you to represent a
Ukrainian or a Soviet example. For this project I used the only aftermarket
accessories on the market, two NH Detail photoetched sets for interior
and exterior.
11
The first modification was removing the two The fuselage, tail planes and wings were riveted using the After opening the rear access door I
access doors on the right semi-fuselage and “Rosie the Riveter” tool; to avoid the "crater effect" that is realized that its shape was wrong, so I
reshaping the frame around the front door with often seen around the rivets after a first pass, I carefully corrected it with 1mm plasticard.
0.13mm plasticard. sanded the indents and made another row of rivets
matching into the same holes obtaining very sharp detail
without raised edges.
After having found many websites, mostly Russian, featuring the BE-12 I was able to
download a large number of different images and documentation, I thought I would
try to do something that I’ve had in mind for a long time; the complete scratch-
building of the fuselage interior. After gluing the front wheel wells and using a
profilometer, I used 0.4 mm plasticard to make the bulkheads that divide the
fuselage into the many compartments.
Since the fuselage does not have locating pins, I created

them by gluing some tubes on the left semi-fuselage and 1 mm
rods on the right one; this arrangement proved to be very useful in
ensuring a consistent alignment during the countless dry-fits that will
be required to ensure that all the scratch-built items fit the model.
Given the amount of self-made parts, it is important to verify that

everything fits perfectly in the fuselage and that it closes
smoothly. The various pilot and observer instrument panels in the
plane's nose come from the NH Detail photoetched set.
12
The doors of the various internal bulkheads were made with

0.25 and 0.4 mm plasticard, while the two access doors
were made with transparent plastic card because they have
portholes that I have obtained simply with masks of the
appropriate shape.
The interior colour is a grey-blue mixed from Gunze H42 with about 20% medium grey.
With the same colour I added 30% white and airbrushed highlighted areas which adds
dimension and interest.
Some very dark blue oil

colour was deposited With a fine brush dipped in turpentine,
around the details. I pushed the oil colour around the
details, both on the fuselage halves
and on all the interior parts.
The smaller details and highlights

were carefully brushed with a The various accessories on the fuselage walls were painted with a Vallejo
light grey Vallejo acrylic. dark grey and the details highlighted with a grey enamel drybrushing.
In the areas subjected to crew wear,

I have simulated the scratches that
make the metal primer visible with a
mix of Vallejo blue and yellow
applied with a sponge.
Using black, always applied with a
sponge, I simulated other scratches,
then with a diluted Mig pigment, I
created some dust on the floor.
13
The blue oxygen bottles and the green cylinders of the fire extinguisher system were painted and highlighted with
Vallejo colours. All the remaining details were painted referring to the pictures of the real aircraft, but using brighter
shades of colour to make the details remain more visible inside the dark fuselage; also in this case I did various
scratches with a dark grey applied with a sponge and dusted the low fuselage parts with the pigments to give an idea
of dirt, grime and general wear. The photoetched instrument panel was drybrushed to highlight its details.
After closing the fuselage and filling

any gaps with plastic stock and
cyanoacrylate, I cut the flaps from the
wings to reposition them lowered and
reconstructed the front edge with 0.4
mm plasticard.
The wings were then glued to the
fuselage and also in this case I had to
fill several gaps at the root; to
facilitate the operation, the flaps were
glued to the wings at a later time.
The rear view dome is slightly oversized and made of very

thick plastic; for these reasons I decided to vac-form it, creating a
master with plastic and two-component Tamiya putty.
The landing gear doors and legs are pretty well

made and I just added some detail in plasticard
and copper wire.
After painting them with the same colour as the
fuselage, I highlighted the details with a Vallejo light
grey and a dark grey oil wash.
The kit wheels feature a plastic rim and a rubber
tire; to make painting easier and avoid any
cracking of the rubber over time, I decided to cast
them in resin. Before making the mould, I coated
the wheels with a layer of MrSurfacer, as the
silicone rubber (Prochima GLS-PRO), does not
react in contact with the rubber of the tyre.
14
The ordinates were glued to the gondola and strips to simulate the internal structure.
then, after drying, I separated the two halves At the end of the construction, the engine and
of the gondola and also cut the two ordinates the access doors were dry fitted to the to
so as to have a nearly perfect junction during verify that everything would fit perfectly.
To build the Ivchenko AI-20M turboprop engine I started from the final assembly stage. The engine was then painted with Alclad Steel
resin cylinders which were machined until I obtained the main The engine was then detailed with plastic in order to have a solid base for subsequent
body of the engine. After removing the access doors on the parts, photoetched parts and tin and copper treatments; all the details were painted with
engine nacelle, I rebuilt the two circular ordinates and the wires of different diameters. I used some real Vallejo and Humbrol metallic colours, always
engine bearer, after which the engine was assembled inside the engine images as a reference and made sure trying to maintain a fairly high contrast that will
gondola, making sure it was perfectly centered and aligned. everything could then fit smoothly into the make all the details visible once the engine
To facilitate this operation, I inserted four metal pins in the nacelle. The engine access doors were made will be glued inside the nacelle. A wash with a
gondola and engine chassis that allowed me to maintain with aluminium from a can and some plastic dark grey oil helped to highlight details.
alignment when it was time to permanently assemble the
engine.
The nacelle access doors and its interior were painted with a Gunze Interior
Green, embossed parts were highlighted with a Vallejo light green, after
which everything was harmonised with a dark green oil wash and a further
brown one to simulate the accumulation of oil and dirt. The scratches were
made with a Vallejo dark gray applied with a sponge.
Transparent parts fit pretty well to the fuselage,

only the nose needs an adjustment at the top.
Emergency exit doors have been removed from
the canopy and rebuilt in 0.25 mm plasticard;
the fuselage lateral fins come
from the NH Detail set and fit
perfectly to the model.
15
Since the model is completely light grey, it is

necessary to vary its uniformity, beginning
with the pre-shading phase; for this reason,
in addition to the usual highlighting of the
panel lines, some panels were painted in
white and dark grey.
To paint the model I used Gunze H325 with
about 10% white added and a few drops of
blue to make it a little cooler; the colour was
laid in two thin layers in order to not cover
the pre-shading underneath. Many panels
were then shaded with the slightly lightened
or darkened base colour to accentuate the
chromatic variety of the surface.
After a protective
layer of ‘Future’, I
applied the decals
that were very fine
and with an
almost absent
carrier film.
After a general wash with a dark grey, I

protected the model with Gunze clear
matt and then started weathering it by
applying black oil directly to the matt
surface and working on limited areas to
avoid the risk of staining the surface.
Immediately after application, the oil colour was ‘pulled’ vertically on

the fuselage and longitudinally on the wings. With a flat brush
moistened with turpentine, I almost completely removed the oil
The oil stains around the nacelle
colour leaving only some barely visible streaks.
access panels were made with a
mix of base colour, Tamiya
A typical feature of the Be-12 Smoke and a drop of Flat Base
is the ‘anti-ice’ at the root of and applied with a fine brush.
the propeller blades. To
replicate this I designed a
black "comb-like" graphic on
the computer and reduced it
to the correct size then printed
it on a clear decal sheet. At
the root of each blade I
painted a rectangle in Alclad
Aluminium and placed the
decal over it.
16
The runway ‘slabs’ were cut directly onto the I then carried out a first wash with a dark grey. I glued the synthetic grass trying to reproduce the
plywood base, after which I painted them in somewhat scruffy look of the apron of an Eastern
various shades of grey, trying to achieve some Europe base.
variety in the overall appearance.
After drying, the grass was brush painted with The figures come from Eduard range, except the guy The Ural 4320 truck is an ICM kit and was
different hues of enamel green, while the soil on the truck that was built with various resin almost completely built out of the box; I just
surrounding the grass patches was made with leftovers. They were all painted with Vallejo acrylics. thinned and refined some details and replaced
Humbrol hazelnut and sand. the wheels with the resin ones from the Balaton
range, although the kit ones are more than
adequate for most.
Airport equipment, i.e. ladders, wheel chocks and engine maintenance scaffolding,
were built with 0.25 mm plasticard and 0.65 and 0.75 mm Evergreen rods.
After a base of faded colours, I made the scratches with Vallejo red brown and
orange, followed by a wash with Siena Earth to accentuate the feeling of years of
outdoor use.
Even in 1:72 the Be-12 has great

presence as a display piece, it’s full
of character and an interesting
addition to any collection.
17
Be
12
18
19
2
BUILDING THE AVIATTIC 1:32 ANSALDO A.1
MODELLED BY DAVID PARKER
The cowling parts all have a film moulded over the various vents and
openings which need to be removed in order to open them. The curved
shapes of the cowlings makes this a tricky task and I used a ball-shaped
burr to carefully grind away these areas before cleaning up each hole with
a scalpel.
The cleaned up cowling panels. I could see some sink marks on both sides of the fuselage where the
bulkheads locate 1 so these were filled using MRP filler and sanded.
20
The kit provides a set of guide jigs to aline the cabane struts but the rear one Test fitting the rear cowling over the instrument panel showed some fit
required a notch 2 to be cut to clear the control column. The brass pins in the problems and the instructions recommend sanding down the instrument
struts were trimmed flush where the struts locate into the fuselage as I found panel if you plan to fit the cowling. I had to remove quite a bit of material from
it impossible to drill a location hole in the fuselage. I used 5 minute Epoxy glue the edge of the panel and especially around the MG ammunition feeds to get
to allow the alignment to be adjusted and then I applied some CA glue for a good fit.
additional strength.
Even with the adjustments to the instrument panel the centre cowling does adjustment of the instrument panel as well as a complete reworking of the
not fit well as these pictures show and the lower edge of the cowling does shape of the front of the cowling 3 where it sits behind the front cabane.
not overlap the edge of the fuselage as it should. This called for more
Eventually after three hours of adjustments and test fitting I managed to get correctly located so that I could then locate the spine of the fuselage
the cowling to sit correctly so that the lower edge overlaps the fuselage and correctly to get a good flush fit with the cowling.
with the rear edge flush with the rear cabane. I was critical to get this part
Another view of the correctly seated cowling showing some gaps around the The separate fuselage spine has a large location pin to mate with the lower
edge of the instrument panel which hopefully wont be too visible on the fuselage but I had to adjust this to move the spine forward for a tight fit with
completed model. the cowling. I also had to cut away the spine to slide behind the rear cabane
4 and there was a significant step to the wider lower fuselage 5.
21
Before I could glue the spine I needed to add the final details to the cockpit perforations on the resin version were damaged as I tried to remove it from
which included the gun mount brace. The kit offers a choice of a resin or the casting block. This meant I had to assemble the rather daunting three
photoetched versions of the brace but despite my best efforts the part brass version and I decided to solder the parts for a stronger bond.
The throttle mixture quadrant assembly 6 was glued in place on the side of The radiator shutter control 7 was glued on the opposite side of the cockpit.
the cockpit.
To ensure the best flush fit of the spine I used a burr to remove some material Another test fit of the spine to check the fit before the interior section is
above the bulkhead behind the seat 8. painted.
The interior is painted and the cockpit padding Finally I was able to glue the spine and the empennage in place with the cowling simply taped in position
given an overall base coat. The face of the at this stage. I used 5 minute epoxy glue for this to allow everying to be adjusted for the best fit and then
temperature gauge has just been ‘glazed’ with taped in position to dry.
varnish that has still to cure giving a cloudy
22 appearance.
Once the epoxy had dried I

applied a generous
application of white Miliput
to the seams in preparation
for final shaping of the
fuselage. I chose to use
Miliput as it dries to a very
hard finish. I did my best to
blend the spine section
below the cockpit into the
wider lower fuselage.
The filler was sanded down and initially the results were quite promising. In Photos of the real aircraft show a distinct sharp demarkation along the curved
order to verify the shape I removed the cowling and masked the cockpit and waistline where the spine meets the side panels. Unfortunately the coat of Mr
engine bay so that I could safely spray Mr Surfacer over the fuselage. Surfacer showed that I had a quite soft line at best with it almost disappearing
completely below the cockpit.
Further applications of Mr Surfacer and more sanding failed to achieve the Repeated corrections, fresh applications of Mr Surfacer and endless sanding
look of the real fuselage and I used some Tamiya white flexible tape to try to were needed. This image shows the white Miliput showing through the primer
improve the definition around the particularly difficult area below the cockpit. as another ammendment is checked, however the fluid waistline is still not as
Part of the problem here was the cabane struts which restricted access to it should be.
this area when sanding. With hindsight I would not have fitted these until after
the fuselage shape was established.
Eventually after two days of work on the shape of the fuselage I had the sharp
edge waistline that I was looking for. Not for the first time in the project I found 3
myself questioning the decision by the kit designers not to split the fuselage in
the conventional longitudinal way which would have avoided the need to
resolve this difficult seam line.
The project continues in the next issue.

23
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ACADEMY’S 1:48 SUKHOI SU-27

WITH LARGE HELPING OF
A F T E R M A R K E T. . .
MODELLED BY GREGA KRIZMAN

26
B
A
lthough it is one of the most iconic and
popular modern airplanes in the world, the
Su-27 Flanker in 1:48 is only available
from Academy released way back in 1995, and
to this day none of the major kit manufacturers
has decided to release a new one, which in my
opinion, is a shame.
Having bought the kit almost 20 years ago, I

never intended to build my flanker out of the box,
so over the years the kit box was filled with
almost every available aftermarket offering
available to produce a more accurate replica.
Even then I knew that the amount of aftermarket
accessories and a lot of elbow grease would be
needed to bring this old kit to acceptable
standards.
27
A C H A L L E N G I N G CO N S T R U CT I O N
The build started by throwing away almost half of the kit

plastic and trying to figure out how all the resin aftermarket is
going to be installed. From the experience I have with resin
aftermarket, I knew that the biggest problem will lie in wheel
bays as they usually require a lot of cutting of the kit plastic. I
was proved right as I literally had to dismember the bottom
section of the kit into three separate pieces in order to install
the ‘bays. With them glued back in place with 5-minute
epoxy glue and lower portions of the wings reattached,
engine intakes were next on the list. They were enhanced
with some schratchbuilt items and Eduard photo etched
grilles and louvers. Edges of the intakes were also
significantly thinned as they were far too thick. As predicted,
they didn’t fit well to the fuselage, again lots of filler and
sanding time was wasted until I was satisfied with the result.
Wheelbays and air intakes were painted in a grey-green
shade; RLM 02 (C60) was the closest shade of paint that I
could match to the reference photos. Small details were then
picked out by brush, a dark green wash and some light
drybrushing completing this first step of the build.
28
I was pretty happy that the cockpit was nose fitted perfectly, acting like nose panels that were lost during the
much easier to install. The cockpit was weight rather than an improvement to construction process using templates
primed with Mr. Surfacer, painted with the original plastic part! At this moment made out of vinyl foil. With the main
Mr.Color RLM65 light blue (C115) with I’d realized how big the finished model assembly ready to be painted, I still had
dials and details picked out with Vallejo will be and I was getting a bit worried to complete the undercarriage, canopy,
acrylics. AK 070 Brown blue wash about the amount of paint required to rocket pods and missiles. The canopy
followed and after a coat of semi matt cover this beast. But, I was still far away had a nasty mould seam across the
clear it was ready to install. With my from filling the airbrush as I had to repair centre so careful sanding and polishing
cockpit finished and wheelbays the dubious kit panel lines on the wings was required. Eduard masks came in
completed, It was time to marry the (according to the drawings I had), filling handy, as they provide two sets of
fuselage and wings. The fit here was them with putty and superglue, and re- masks, one for the main camo colour
surprisingly good for the age of this kit, scribing the new ones. The trick when and the other to create the canopy seal
but I’d noticed a significant sag in the using CA glue as gap filler is to start edge. Gear legs and wheels are a
wings. Wings of the Flanker are straight sanding it within 15 minutes after combination of plastic, resin, photoetch
and level with no sag, so brass rods application, otherwise it will turn rock and some scratch built parts. The most
were clamped to the wings and glued hard. The rear airbrake doesn’t align well pleasant aftermarket set to work with
together with strong epoxy glue in order when in a closed position, so I had to was the Brassin missiles and pylons.
to get the wings back to the correct use the same method there also (now I They are a model by themselves, just the
shape. The fuselage joint seams know why almost every Flanker built has amount of decals is mind-blowing, but
required a little filler, especially behind this in an open position!). Just before the they are a real pleasure to assemble and
the wings, so some of the access panels first layer of paint (Mr. Surfacer 1000 was when completed, they are light years
were erased in the process, but were already sprayed) I riveted the model with ahead of those provided in the kit.
recreated again using 0.2mm styrene an RB rivet tool using 3M blue plastic
sheets. Up front, the Quickboost resin tape as a guide. I also re-created some
29
PA I N T I N G
My painting procedure started with afterburner cans and exhausts covers

that are in natural metal. I find the key to great looking burned metal is
using different shades of Alclad on different panels (I know, masking is a
boring process), followed by black wash, and finished by rubbing some
blue and raw umber oil paints with a cotton swab on the chosen
segments of the metal. This final step gives depth and disrupts the
uniformity of the underlying metal shades.
With metal sections masked, I pre-shaded the panels and rivet lines with
Tamiya XF-24 dark grey. I knew from the beginning that I will build RED
01 (dubbed One Kopeyka) from 689th GvIAP with the unusual teeth,
snake eyes and a cobra on the tail. Camouflage of this machine was
pretty much standard with the exception of blue grey patches sprayed on
the lower sides of the plane. For the base
tone I choose Mr.Paint Light blue (MRP-043)
which is already thinned for airbrush but had
to be lightened a touch with Mr. Color White
(C01).
For the camouflage patches the

AKAN (set 46301 Modern
Russian Air Force: SU-27) paints
were used. Known for their tone
accuracy but also extremely hard
to find, paints are packed in
small 10ml bottles and I wasn’t
30 sure if that would be enough for
this beast!
D E CA L S A N D The decals responded well to the Micro Sol and Micro
W E AT H E R I N G
Set system and once applied were sealed with Mr
Paint Super Clear semi-matt. Weathering was done in
several steps, as I wanted to produce well worn
aircraft. The Oil dot technique was a first step in the
process. To be honest, the effect is barely visible at the
beginning, but when everything dries, one can see the
subtle difference. Panel washes from Mig followed;
Deep Grey, Blue Grey and Blue Black wash enhanced
the panel lines and rivets, but that was just the
beginning. Reference photos in Verlinden’s Lock on.17
book show the back of the aircraft around the engines
and access panels was really specked and dirty, so for
this effect a sponge dipped in dark brown wash was
dabbed onto the surface followed by engine grime
used in the same manner. Some minor scratches
(black grey) were done by brush and for the final step
some subtle fading was done with white oil paint.
Apply a small amount of white in the corner of a
selected panel and then gently scrub it with a cotton
bud. The model was then set aside for a week before it
was sealed with semi matt finish from Mr.Paint. All that
was left to do was to attach all of the remaining parts
saving the most fragile ones until last.
31
A display base was made out of MDF board with

A F T E R M A R K E T D E TA I L S :
NOY miniatures printed Soviet PAG-14 airfield
surface glued on to. A Dream Model PE ladder and
Aires: Master:
Aerobonus Soviet pilot finished this long and
4549 Wheel bays 48066 Pitot tube
sometimes not so enjoyable build. Academy’s Su-27
4264 exhaust nozzles 48113 Static dischargers
is not easy to build and it definitely shows it’s age,
4262 Cockpit
but with some hard work, determination (and extra
Brassin:
details), this kit can still make an excellent model
Quickboost: 648053 Wheels
you can be proud of.
48116 Correct nose 648101 R-27ET Missiles
48310 Flaps 648094 R-27ER Missiles
48129 Antennas
Eduard:
48507 Flanker B exterior
EDEX104 Masks
32
33
ANDREA VIGNOCCHI KIT-BASHES HIS WAY TO THIS BEAUTIFUL BELL AH-1W
36
The Bell AH-1 was the first attack helicopter designed and built
specifically for the task; the first Cobra entered service in 1967 and after
nearly 50 years many of them are still in service with US Marines and other air
forces around the world, a witness to the value of this aircraft. Winner of the
controversial and unrealistic Lockheed AH 56 Cheyenne contest, the single-
engined Cobra was produced in 1116 units of many versions, fighting
throughout the Vietnam conflict and getting into service with the air forces of
Israel, Spain, Turkey, etc. In the 1970’s, the first twin-engined versions, J and
T, entered service, while the AH-1W Supercobra started its duty in the early
1980's; this helicopter still serves in Marines naval aviation and also in the air
forces of South Korea, Taiwan and Turkey. The Supercobra can use a large
range of weapons: TOW and HELLFIRE anti-tank missiles, unmanned rocket
launchers, Sidewinder short-range air-to-air missiles for self defence and is
also equipped with a 20mm M 197 three-barrels gun derived from the famous
6-barrels Vulcan. The helicopter can fly up to 280 Km/h and fought in all the
US wars in the Middle East and in Afghanistan. The Marines have worked very
well with the Supercobra, which is to enter service with the new version, the
AH-1Z, equipped with a four blades rotor and updated sensors; we will see
the slim silhouette of this helicopter in the sky for a long time to come, really a
great proof of its longevity.
S E V E N T Y S E C O N D S C A L E
COBRA
PART
ONE 37
In order to make a Supercobra in 1:72 the only choice is the old seemingly useless but which will turn out to be very helpful. The kit
Italeri kit, which is dimensionally correct but with raised panel lines canopy and other details were of poor quality, so I bought the
and a detail level not up to today’s standard. I usually make Special Hobby kit of the first Cobra series and this proved to be
models that have struck me in some way; in this case, I read an very useful. When I started examining the Olymp conversion to get
article about a Marines Squadron who flew this helicopter in the "Late" version of the AH-1W, I was disappointed: the quality of
Afghanistan and the beautiful pictures of the bad looking, dirty and resin moulding was poor, with soft details and many irregular
weapons-loaded Supercobras made me decide to build the areas. With a new scalpel blade I tried to enhance and thin the
model. I bought some resin sets to improve the Italeri kit: turbine exhausts and their internal parts; in the picture one can
Armycast cockpit and engine compartments, Olymp detail set for see the difference before and after the operation. With a milling
the latest Supercobra series that also allowed the conversion from cutter I tried to deepen the areas below the upper ventilation
vertical turbine exhausts to horizontal and then the superb Master grids; it took a great deal of precision and patience to make this
Model brass rods for the gun barrels. I also bought the Pavla set piece acceptable. The provided photoetched parts were replaced
for the first Cobra series and a small AZ Model photoetched fret, with a finer mesh.
I started the fuselage preparation: the Armycast set

allowed me to open the two compartments under the
nose, which contain avionic boxes and ammo box, while
the doors are used by pilots and specialists to board the
helicopter. Using a cutter, I removed the typical bulges
of the fuselage that are provided as separate parts in
the kit; working with precision and doing many dry tests,
the resin sets were installed perfectly. At the root of the
tail boom there are some ventilation grills; after
removing the plastic, they were replaced with
photoetched metal parts, much more realistic. Even on
the rudder there are other grills that were replaced the
same way; the interior of the rudder has been thinned,
in order to position the transmission shaft.
I separated the resin parts from the casting blocks with a Tiger saw, starting
from the crew compartment. To get the latest version of the Supercobra and
show the engine compartments open, I had to separate the Armycast set with
the old type vertical exhaust and mate it to the Olymp part, then cut the plastic
part and insert the resin engine section, it’s going to be a lot of fun...
38
I then glued the plastic parts to the fuselage, putting some panels were made with a dotted and sharp syringe needle:
reinforcements to increase the strength. By looking at the dry rotating it carefully, one can get perfect circles, very difficult to do
tests, I guessed there would be a lot of work to do (and still did not otherwise. With 0, 13 mm plasticard I made some panels and the
imagine how much ..), however, the two resin parts were glued bases for low intensity lights. The difference before and after detail
with cyano and then I started the long sanding and rescribing work is remarkable; it takes time and patience, but the final result
session of the part, which I then set aside for the final assembly. is worth it.
All the surfaces of the model were rescribed and detailed with
rivets, embossed panels, sensors etc. I like helicopters because At the root of the tail boom there are two parallel cooling grids
they are something in between aircrafts and tanks... I used Dymo through which you can see some details inside. I used a photo-
tape as a guide for the rescribing job: cut in thin strips is great for etched grid, hoping to glimpse something inside the
the irregular surfaces of the Supercobra. Based on the true compartment, but after detailing the entire interior, you cannot see
helicopter's pictures, I added all the riveting, making rivets of anything, of course... The Olymp resin part, which reproduces the
various sizes, using a 0.2 mm tip for larger rivets and a punch for cooling fairing for the hydraulic system, has been reshaped,
smaller ones, especially on the tail boom. Some small circular detailed and set aside.
39
Now let's take care of the main and the tail rotors; this is where
the kit shows its years as the pieces are correct shapes, but they
lack much detail and finesse; it takes some work to bring it to the
required standard with black stretched sprue that simulates the
various fixing bolts. With a new blade I refined and separated
some parts of the blade attachments and I scratch-built the
missing details of the hub and main rotor. The two hydraulic jacks
that stabilize the main rotor are made with the useful Albion Alloys
aluminium tubes. A great deal of detail was added to the tail rotor
attachment, very bare in the kit, but full of details on the true
helicopter; the small barbells at the sides of the blades come from
the AZ photoetched fret, which begins to show its usefulness.
With the rotors done, I resumed the fuselage to make other cuts: I
removed the upper part of the nose, too sharp, to replace it with
the resin piece, with a most correct shape. I then began to take
care of the cockpit compartment; the Armycast set is related to
the initial versions of the AH-1W, so I had to scratchbuild the
weapon control officer instrument panel. In the latest series there
is a multifunctional monitor and also the instrumentation is
different; I also used some pre-coloured photoetched parts from
the Buccaneer model, useful for certain microscopic details. I had
to advance the position of the Pilot’s seat and dashboard, creating
some detail behind the seat and moving the dashboard until
obtaining the right position. Then I added the photoetched seat
belts, since the ones printed on the seat were of the wrong shape.
I also used some parts of the Pavla set, like the cyclic pitch lever
and the big pipes behind the seats; using the best of each set, the
model improves more and more.
The turret has an unacceptable detail level

so I removed everything with a cutter and
scratchbuilt the interior. The gun barrels
come from the Master Models range, very
beautiful, but not easy to assemble; it takes
patience and a lot of delicacy but in the
end the result is superb.
Continuing with the dry tests I found the

worst problem of this assembly: the turbine
exhausts point down, while in reality they are parallel to
the helicopter and hence everything needs to be redone: I have
separated the two resin parts again and inserted some small plastic
wedges drowned in cyano glue, in order to get the right tilt of the exhausts. At
this point, however, a space is created underneath the exhausts, between the
fuselage and the resin piece, eliminated with the same system: plastic wedges,
a lot of glue to close all gaps and a long sanding job. The latest dry tests show
that everything is finally in place, but it's been hard work !
40
Finally I begin to paint: the Cobra interior is all in zinc chromate

and I used the Aeromaster paint, more yellowish and correct for
the period. After I applied the first layer, a Burnt Siena and Black
oil wash highlights recesses and ages the colour, then the usual
contrasting painting method emphasizes the interior details, which
obviously will remain invisible.
More commitment is required to colour the cockpit that will

remain visible through the large canopy. On the real Cobra the
interior is completely black and if we use the same colour on the
model, we would see nothing, just a dark spot, so I started from a
medium grey. It is useful to fix the various parts on some sprue
sections so that they can be handled easily during painting. A
black oil wash adds depth; when dry, I sealed it with a coat of
Vallejo Air transparent matt. I then begun the painting stage of the
cockpit details; as usual, Vallejo are unbeatable for these things.
Armoured seats can have cushions and belts of various colours;

since the seats are the most visible part of the cockpit, I have
chosen green padding and cream belts, in order to highlight them
with the zenithal light technique. With meticulous painting and the
help of some sections of pre-painted photo-etch from other
models, the instrument panels come to life.
After the painting, I assembled the tub and all the details; the
colouring may seem overwhelming and too contrasted, but once
the canopy and the doors are in place, everything will become
less visible and the contrast will serve to make the interior stand
out. The tub was inserted into the fuselage after adding under it a
couple of fishing leads to prevent the model from sitting on the
tail; at this point we can finally close the fuselage. After closing the
fuselage, I had to engrave lost panel lines and reproduce the
innumerable doors, avionic fairings and low-intensity lights that
cover the Cobra. The engine-exhausts assembly is demanding: I
will need cyano and plastic bits to restore fuselage continuity. As
you can see from the pictures, the exhausts now look correctly
parallel to the ground.
41
I used the airbrush to paint the inside of the turbine compartments give it the right angled appearance. Other details were made with
in titanium colour, obtained by mixing Steel and Aluminium. The stretched sprue slices, while wiring is the usual lead wire of
exhausts are painted in Jet Exhaust from Alclad range, for me the various sizes. As a first step I airbrushed some white Alclad primer
best metallic colours on the market. After this phase we can to improve colour adhesion. When you make modern aircraft it's
mount the hydraulic cooling fairing. To improve the adhesion of the all easier, just search the net and there are dozens of great colour
colours on the photoetched parts I used the Alclad white primer, photographs of all the details and the painting therefore becomes
really great. The "burnt" appearance of the exhaust terminals was very easy; in this case, the body of the turbines is painted in burnt
obtained with a light drybrush, made using cream and burnt brown that I obtained by mixing Agama Track Colour and
brown oil colours, after firstly laying a transparent opaque acrylic Aluminium. I then brush painted the engine details with various
coat to mute the brightness of the Alclad colour and isolate it from metallic tones, then a black oil wash gave them the right depth.
the brush strokes. Inside the exhausts the device that cools the Wiring painting was done with Vallejo acrylics, while the
outgoing gas, a sort of grid, is highlighted with a black wash and overheating effect of some pipes is obtained with very diluted inks,
Agama aluminium. applied with a brush in multiple layers, until the required hue is
obtained. Now it's time to install the engines in their
Now is the time to deal with the two turbines: Armycast resin parts compartments, adding the cables that connect them inside the
are not bad, but lack many details and wiring, especially the two fuselage and the job is over; the obtained detail creates a real
protective sheets near the exhausts that were reworked with point of interest in the model.
0.13mm plasticard, folded on the sharp edge of a clamp, so as to
42
We are at the final stages of assembly; I replaced the central For the weapon loading I chose an asymmetric configuration,
‘wings’ with those of the Special Hobby kit that have better common to the Cobra and quite interesting to see: on the right
engravings and details, while the outer fairings remain those of the side there are two TOW anti-tank wire-guided missiles and a Hidra
Italeri box, detailed and engraved. In the lower parts I made holes rocket launcher for 7 guided rockets. On the left side there is an
for the weapon pylons and added many details, such as the rings additional tank and the launcher for Hellfire anti-tank missiles.
to anchor the helicopter on the aircraft carrier and the various Although the Cobra can load up to 4 Hellfire each launcher as well
electrical wiring for the weapons. I modified the original kit's old- as 4 TOWs, I have chosen to install only two missiles on each
fashioned skids and updated them to represent the type used in launcher, a common configuration on real helicopters that does
the last Supercobras; it is best to glue them at the end of the not overload the model. The loads are of mixed origin: TOW and
painting process, after attaching the weapons because it would be rocket launchers are from the Special Hobby kit, the Hellfire
difficult to do it with the mounted skids. When I placed the missiles and their launcher come from the Olymp set, the internal
helicopter on the ground, I realized that the weight to balance it pylons come from the original Italeri kit and have been modified by
was not enough, but fortunately long ago I had purchased Liquid adding details and cabling to improve their appearance. The extra
Gravity, a liquid made of tiny lead balls: I poured it into the hole in tank is obtained by joining two small minigun containers of the
the turret, then I did pour some drops of high fluid cyano and the same kit: I cut two sections of these pieces at the right length,
problem was solved. glued them together and, since they were of the perfect diameter,
here is the tank, typical of the latest Cobra series and not present
Let's go back to deal with the rotor: on the ground the blades are in either kit. A meticulous painting completes the weapons load
almost always drooped, not in a neutral position as in the kit, so I that will be put aside to be installed in the end. Countermeasures
separated them with a razor saw at the height of the joint, then launchers come from the Italeri kit; I chose the single type and not
inserted a brass pin and drilled the part of the hub on which I will the double to not overload the lines of the model.
insert them again. After gluing the rotor blades in the new position,
I put the two stabilizing jacks under the rotor, also made with
Albion aluminium tubes; the appearance of the Supercobra rotor is
now much more realistic.
The fitting of the Supercobra's large canopy is one of the most delicate steps in the
realization of this model: since I wanted to show the crew access doors open, I was
thinking of using the special Hobby canopy, already prepared for this, but the
difficulty of adapting it to the Italeri model and the mediocre quality of
transparent plastic, full of stains, forced me to use the original part of the
kit, which is also of poor quality. After polishing the canopy the best I
could, I carefully cut down the doors that will be replaced by
those of the Special Hobby kit; in these polishing and cutting
sessions you have to use the utmost delicacy because it
is very easy to ruin everything... The inside of the
real canopy is packed with wires, dials and has
a rail running on the left side of the front
seat; the rail comes from the small AZ
Model photo-etched fret while everything
else is scratchbuilt. Intercom cables
were made and the interior of the
frames was brush painted matt black
and, after gluing all the small details
inside the canopy, I carefully installed
it on the model, filling junctions to
perfection. A row of rivets on the
outer edge of the canopy, made with
a 0.2 mm drill, ends the job.
CON
TINU
ED
IN TH
NEXT E
ISSU
E 43
new releases
Revell 1:32 P-51D-5NA Mustang

Another Mustang? Well why not? such a popular aircraft is well for good measure. The cockpit looks very well done and is
served in 1:32 with Tamiya taking the crown (our cover star way assembled as a separate unit complete with side wall frames and
back in issue 38) with their superb rendition of the ‘D’, bear in detail with a sliding option for the canopy to show off all the work.
mind though you’ll be able to pick up three Revell Mustangs for The decals look excellent with two attractive and well-known
the price of one Tamiya kit... This is a brand new tooling to the schemes offered; ‘Lou IV’ and ‘Desert Rat’ with the former
high standards of Revell’s recent large scale aircraft with some complete with the black areas of the invasion stripes if your
very fine surface detail and good design features such as the masking skills aren’t the strongest. If this kit builds as nice as it
upper and lower wings moulded as pairs and the tail / rear looks Revell have a winner, agreed there’s plenty of large scale
fuselage as separate parts allowing future releases of the later Mustangs to choose from but remember Revell don’t make any
version (three types of lower cowl vents also points at future money from other manufacturer’s kits! This certainly fills a gap of
versions). It should be pointed out however that the kit lacks any an easily affordable 1:32 P-51 with accurate features and great
rivet detail. Control surfaces have subtle detail and are provided detail. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and model
as separate parts, wheel wells apear to have the correct look and stores. For details visit www.revell.de/en
46 shape and we’ve decent landing gear and wheels. Optional
‘paper’ or metal drop tanks are included and a couple of bombs
Wingnut Wings 1:32 Sopwith 5F.1 Dolphin

It has become something of a tradition for Wingnut Wings to These differences are all clearly called out in the in the
release a new kit just before the seasonal festivities and this year instructions. The lower wing moulding integrates the cockpit floor
is no exception with the welcome arrival of the Sopwith Dolphin. for a clever bit of sturdy design and as usual the interplane struts
This elegant design with its open top wing centre section are shape coded making it impossible to use them except in their
designed to provide the best possible visibility and from the intended locations. The kit offers the choice of the early
modelling perspective, an unobscured view of the gloriously well production twin Lewis gun mount for the cockpit as well as wing
detailed cockpit. The kit carries over the 200hp “Hisso” engine mounted Lewis’ fitted by 87 Squadron. As usual there is a small
from the original SE.5a kit but everything else of course is photoetched fret with items like the seat belts and gun cocking
completely new and beautifully moulded as we have come to levers as well as a clear sprue for the windscreen and wing
expect from Wingnut Wings. Assembly begins with the cockpit control inspection windows. The excellent decal sheet printed by
tub which will plug into the two halves of the fuselage in due Cartograf offers as much variation as the muted British schemes
course and the full colour instructions provide detailed colour allow although scheme A with its striking boar’s head nose art
guides throughout and rigging diagrams for the cockpit rigging offers something a little more exciting. As usual with Wingnut
should you wish to add this. There are some subtle production Wings it is hard if not impossible to find fault and as fans of their
variants depending on your choice of one the five different aircraft kits will know, much to enjoy!
supplied on the decal sheet, some early, some late production. Full details at www.wingnutwings.com 47
HGW Models
If you’re looking for the ultimate detail and quality, look no further ‘Clerget’ (as we featured a few issues back). Sets of 1:48 ‘Remove
than HGW, their seatbelt sets and decals are second to none. Before Flight’ tapes are available in generic style with set 248034,
HGW’s ‘Wet Transfer’ system offers the tried and tested method IDF aircraft set 248035 and British versions in set 248036. All are
of waterslide decals but with the benefit of the complete removal double sided and simply peel from the backing sheet, magic!
of the carrier film from the printed areas avoiding the dreaded Also like magic are HGW seatbelts with their soft, printed webbing
‘silvering’ that can occur. Very comprehensive instructions are and photoetch hard fittings and buckles. New in 1:32 are a 4-point
included for application. Set 248031 consists of superbly detailed Sutton, LVG C.VI, Spitfire Mk.IX, Sopwith Camel and P-40
airframe stencil markings for 1:48 F-14s and a set of ‘Remove Warhawk. In 1:48 is set 148557 for early Fw190s. Highly
Before Flight’ tapes (which simply peel from the backing). 232017 recommended as always, www.hgwmodels.cz
is a set of markings for any 1:32 Me262 and 232018 is a set
replicating the Wingnut Wings markings in their F.1 Camel
Eduard 1:48 Avia B-534 III

Weekend Edition
A fresh outing for the Czechoslovak classic
fighter from Eduard, this is a very
handsome pre-war biplane (although
seeing some war-time service) offered in
the ‘Weekend’ range providing the basic kit
with usually one or two marking options
and a very affordable price tag. This kit is
around a decade old now but still stands-
up pretty well with superb surface detail
and even a well fleshed-out cockpit.
Spatted or exposed wheels are offered and
with the exception of rigging wires (should
you choose to include them) this really is a
very simple build. The wing position is
renowned as being tricky on this kit, as
common with most biplanes, shallow
dimples on the wings and ‘pips’ on the
struts mean this is probably the only part of
the build to take extra care with. A nice
decal sheet provides one Czechoslovak Air
Regiment 4 marking and one Luftwaffe
training version from 1941. A great out-of-
the-box build, certainly do-able over a
48 weekend as a break from more complex
projects. www.eduard.com
Henschel Hs 126
Number 45 in the 'Top Drawings' series focusses on the Henschel Hs 126 A-0,
Srećko Bradić A-1 and B-1. The series provides solid reference with plans in 1:72, 1:48 and
Published by Kagero large pull-out A2 plans in 1:32. The plans cover all external views with detail
softback format, 20 pages plus extending down to the rivets making them ideal for super-detailers or those
seeking accurate shapes and dimensions. A good selection of colour profiles
pull-out plans provide some very handsome schemes from operators such as Sweden,
ISBN 9788365437600 Greece and Spanish Civil War aircraft. A bonus of pre-cut masks for the
www.casematepublishers.co.uk Matchbox and ICM kits are included.
AK Interactive, Real Colors

This is a brand new range of paint from fine and build the colour quickly
the guys at AK developed in their own ensuring a thin coat so as not to begin
laboratories with painstaking research filling any fine detail. The durability also
in both accuracy of colour and user- seems very good when applying
friendly application. Having tried and subsequent weathering materials. An
seen demonstrations of the product in introductory range of around 140
action, AK are rightfully proud of their military shades and aircraft specific
achievements in producing an acrylic colours now also released modeller’s
lacquer that ticks the boxes of most needs are well catered for. Our
modellers’ needs. It can be mixed with samples are in the collated sets
similar brands (think along Tamiya and containing three 10ml (1/3 fl.oz.) jars,
Gunze lines) and flows beautifully individuals are also available. We’ve
through even the tightest airbrush heard cries of ‘do we need any more
nozzles without build-up or clogging. brands of paint?’ well we’d say when
It’s equally suitable for brush painting it’s as good as this is very nice to have
with excellent handling and results. The the choice! The range will now be
‘bite’ of the paint to plastic is very good available worldwide from hobby shops
and it dries to a point where you could and suppliers. Check AKI’s website
safely apply masking tape in around and social media for more information
half an hour. The levels of pigment are and video tutorials.
USMC Phantoms, Volume 6 Phantom fans may well be aware of this series in cooperation with Wingman Models, if
not, you don't know what you're missing! Volume six presents a lavishly illustrated look at
Lee R. De Haven and Richard the work of RF-4Bs in the reconnaissance role from 1965 - 1990. This is a really in-depth
study and very nicely presented taking the reader through design and development of the
Rentrop 'Eyes of the Corps' featuring factory illustrations showing specialist modifications and
Published by Double Ugly! equipment and of course period photos of the aircraft. Extensive histories of the
Hardback format, 208 pages squadrons covers VMCJ-1 (Golden Hawks / Cotton Pickers), VMCJ-2 (Playboys), VMCJ-3
and VMFP-3. Studies of markings and camouflage will be invaluable modelling reference
ISBN 9783935687867 as will be the crew's patches and insignia. Add to all this a history of each individual
www.shopofphantoms.com 49
aircraft operated and there's no excuses to not become fluent in Phantom! A very
worthwhile investment for the bookcase.
Lockheed NF-104A The long-standing Japanese modelling diagrams (including walk-around close-ups)
magazine and publisher, Model Art, have explaining the development and technical
Tony R.Landus released the first in a series entitled 'Aircraft details of the aircraft and focus on the
Photobook' focussing on the historic famous pilots themselves including
Published by Model Art Lockheed NF-104A aerospace trainer (an personal memoirs. A selection of colour
Softback format 128 pages excellent companion to their conversion kit) profiles and X-1 and JF-104 information
English / Japanese text with a collection of fantastic period colour complete a very attractive reference. Our
and black and white images. To friends at Hobby Link Japan stock Model
www.modelart-shop.jp accompany the images is text and archive Art publications www.hlj.com
Model Art 1:32 NF-104A Conversion

This conversion has already been available in 1:48 for the of wheels and a very nice pilot figure complete with full pressure
Hasegawa F-104 to produce the rocket- boosted aerospace suit and helmet. A selection of markings is included on a large
trainer, now in 1:32 this really is a lovely piece of work. We've not decal sheet with good register and strong colours. A really high
seen resin moulded in this style before with the appearance of quality set which which is designed to suit the Hasegawa kit but
injection moulded plastic on fine sprues with some superb delicate doesn’t look compatable with Italeri’s new release unfortunately.
detail. Along with the nose, wing-tips and instrument panel is a set www.modelart-shop.jp
Brazilians at War Who knows anything about Brazil's Allied ground troops. For fans of the P-47
involvement in WWII? Not many we'd and P-40 there's some fantastic alternative
Santiago Rivas expect, and as this new release in Helion's schemes and some more obscure subjects
Published by Helion 'Latin America at War' series (number 4) on offer also such as Havoc and Bolo
appears to be the first book published on bombers. The book is packed with images,
Softback format, 112 pages
the subject of Brazil's Air Force in WWII, it's maps and colour profiles (including a few
ISBN 9781911512585 no surprise. The Força Aérea Brasileira colour period images) something
www.casematepublishers.co.uk fought in the defence of their own coastline completely new to the majority of us and
50 against U-Boats and also in the Italian very interesting reading especially for
campaign supporting their own and other enthusiasts of U.S. aircraft of the period.
48338 48339
48337
48342 72147
48340
48341
Scale Aircraft Conversions

If you want to upgrade your landing gear SAC are the guys from 48340 for Tamiya’s F-84G, 48341 for Meng’s F-35 Lightning II and
Texas to go to with a huge range in their catalogue and some of 48342 for ICM’s MiG-25 Foxbat. One sole release in 1:72 is 72147
the very latest kit releases covered. In 1:48 comes 48337 for the for Academy’s latest tooling of the F-15E Strike Eagle. Check out
Hobby Boss MiG-31, 48338 for the Hobby Boss A-4 Skyhawk, the huge range at www.scaleaircraftconversions.com
48339 is designed for the 2016 release of Eduard’s Bf 109 F/G,
Swedish Jet Fighter

Colours
What a treat for Swedish aviation fans with There’s certainly an abundance of modelling
Mikael Forslund, Thierry Vallet this follow up to the earlier ‘Swedish Fighter inspiration from weathered bare metal to
Colours 1925-1954’ featuring hundreds of the famously hard to produce splinter
Published by Stratus / images from the jet age coupled with scheme and some fetching special
Mushroom Models Thierry Vallet’s superb colour profile schemes also included. This really is a big
Hardback format, 272 pages illustrations. Aircraft featured range from the and beautiful book which is hard to put
Saab J 21R, J 29, J32 Lansen and Hawker down, the amount of work applied by the
ISBN 9788365281012
Hunter through the Viggen and Draken authors certainly shows making it great
www.mmpbooks.biz series right up to date with the Gripen. Text value, highly recommended.
is easily absorbed and explains the history 51
of the aircraft and images in great detail.
632111
32417 32915
32917 32416 32415
BIG49181
648365
Eduard
Whatever your planned project you can bet that Eduard will have comprehensive detail parts for the wheel wells and landing gear.
something in their vast catalogue to enhance your modelling In 1:48 we have one of the ‘Big Ed’ sets for the Meng Mustang.
pleasure! We’ve a mere taster of their batch of new releases which These sets collate what Eduard have available for a particular kit
are available now. First up in 1:32 is a stunning Spitfire Mk.IXc for the ultimate upgrade package. BIG49181 contains an exterior
cockpit for Revell’s kit. The set is superbly detailed and cast with photoetch fret, interior, seatbelts and pre-cut self adhesive masks.
side-walls, bulkheads, floor and seating complete with two The interior parts are pre-coloured for your pleasure.
photoetch frets. 632111 is the product code. For the 1:32 HKM Finaly to suit one of Eduard’s own kits, the Bf 109F, is their ‘Brassin’
Mosquito featured in this issue are several new sets including set for the radio compartment containing fuselage sections and
33183 pre-coloured seat belts and 32417 a detail set for the radio components in resin and pre-coloured photoetch. Stunning
external airframe and engines. Still with 1:32 is a beautiful addition detail with set 648365. www.eduard.com is packed with
to the beautiful Tamiya F4U-1D (32915) with fine photoetched information (including their own on-line magazine) regarding the
details including pre-coloured parts. Revell’s large scale Fw 190A-8 huge amount of new releases and details of their ranges of
is well served for upgrades including 32917 to deck out the cockpit upgrades, conversion sets and kits.
52 including pre-coloured instument panels, 32415 to detail the
engine and 32416 for the exterior of the kit including
RAF08B
USAAF01A
USAAF03A USAAF
03C
LSK06
Wings Cockpit Figures

There’s no denying a nice figure can work
wonders when displaying model aircraft
and they don’t come much nicer than
those in 1:32 from Wings Cockpit Figures.
Top quality casting in resin and beautiful
sculpting assure these are a pleasure to
paint. For U.S. subjects in 1:32 are
USAAF03A seated fighter pilot, USAAF01A
a pair of bomber crew pondering a map,
USAAF03C crew chief designed to stand
on a wing and lean on the cowling and
USAAF03D designed to fit Mustangs with
a pilot standing in the cockpit and
crewman on the wing (just the ticket for
Revell’s Mustang release?) RAF08B is a
spiffing looking Squadron Leader in
service dress who comes with an
alterative head. Finally is a Great War LSK
pilot leaning on a propellor (or anything
USAAF03D else for that matter). Superb range of
figures www.wingscockpitfigures.com
Hot Skies over Yemen

Tom Cooper The Middle East War series from Helion released intelligence sources and memoirs.
Published by Helion continues with number 11 focussing on the From a modelling perspective there’s a
seemingly constant but little known conflict great selection of period images and
Softback format, 72 pages in Yemen, still raging to this day. This excellent colour profiles (also by the author)
ISBN 9781912174232 Volume 1 focusses on aerial warfare from featuring Hawker Hunters, Strikemasters and
www.casematepublishers.co.uk 1962 - 1994. Very little seems to be known Yemen operated Russian MiG-21s, Su-22s
of these wars and the prolific author on such and MiG-17s in some fantastic schemes
subjects looks to inform us in easily which offer a great alternative from the
accessed information based on recently norm. A nice addition to this series. 53
Dornier Do 22
Djordje Nikolic This is a huge production from Kagero in their Monographs Special Edition series featuring
Published by Kagero the Do 22 and it’s design development, testing and service with the Yugoslav, Greek and
Finnish Air Forces. If you have an interest in Luftwaffe float planes or development of pre-war
Hardback format 172 pages German aircraft this book is an absolute must-have. Packed with rare archive images, factory
ISBN 9788365437617 diagrams, detailed plans in 1:72 and 1:48 (we can only think of a resin kit from Planet Model
www.casematepublishers.co.uk in 1:48) and fold-out A2 size plans in 1:24 if anyone is brave enough for a scratchbuild! If you
do fancy a scratchbuild project this is the ultimate one-stop reference which should leave you
wanting for nothing. The finishing touch is twenty pages of superb quality colour profiles of
the aircraft in it’s many guises. Highly recommended reference.
Air Combat During Arab- A start of a new series from Polish publishers Kagero is now available through
Israeli Wars Casemate who have kindly supplied samples. Split into two chapters, the first deals
with the development of the Israeli Air Forces with a leaning towards the Polish
Jakub Marszalkiewicz involvement ( the book originally written in Polish) and joint testing of aircraft. This
Published by Kagero throws up some great period images and excellent colour profiles. The second chapter
Softback format 172 pages details actual combat such as the Suez Crisis, Six Day War and Yom Kippur War as
well as more recent dogfights and action with more colour profiles, photographs and
ISBN 9788365437495 maps helping to illustrate the text. These books are a touch smaller than A4 but are
www.casematepublishers.co.uk packed with great information for modellers at a very reasonable price.
The Bulgarian Air Force in WWII The second release in this series 'Library of Armed Conflicts' tells the story of
Germany's forgotten ally and the history of the BAF, the Bulgarian Air Force.
Eduardo M. Gil Martinez Switching to support the Soviets in 1944 the book leads through important dates for
Published by Kagero the BAF throughout the war and documents the aircraft in service and their units
(Fighter, Bomber, Maritime etc.) and insignia. From a modelling point of view there's
Softback format 108 pages some great alternatives for Do.17s, Stukas and Ar.196s to name but a few with
54 ISBN 9788365437556 good period images and excellent colour profiles, just check out those 109s! A great
www.casematepublishers.co.uk 'potted history' which is very accessible and some great modelling inspiration.
Phoenix- A Complete
History of the Luftwaffe
Vol.2- The Genisis of Air With over 800 pages and based on a covers in-depth. In fact ‘In-Depth’ is probably
historical window between 1935 and 1937 the best overall description of these books,
Power 1935 - 1937
you’d expect this to be a very detailed with only a handful of images there’s little in
account of the important period of the way of visual modelling reference but the
Richard Meredith development of Germany’s air power prior to historical research is immense with the full
Published by Helion the outbreak of WWII. Everything from series a collation of forty years of research, a
Hardback format, 836 pages training, personnel, development of the one for the history buffs that’s for sure which
combat aircraft and supply and organisation. will surely be regarded as the go-to
ISBN 9781910777275 In this period the Luftwaffe were involved in encyclopaedia on the Luftwaffe.
www.casematepublishers.co.uk the Spanish Civil War which the book also
Revell 1:48 IL-2 Stormovik

This release from Revell is (as many will have presumed) is in fact and well detailed underwing ordnance are included. A noted flaw
the Accurate Miniatures kit from the late ‘90s and still to our with this kit has always been the spinner and propellor shape but
knowledge the only mainstream single seater IL-2 in 1:48, and it’s this is covered by aftermarket parts if you find this an issue. Two
still a pretty decent kit. The detail and moulding still stands up well Soviet colour schemes are offered, the winter one looking
but allegedly some degree of skill and tweaking is required to allow particularly good and the decals are excellent quality. Undoubtedly
a good fit in places, especially around the engine cowls which are the Tamiya IL-2 is a generally better all-rounder but is only the two
presented separate from the main fuselage. Assembly procedure seater version with swept wings is available. Revell model kits are 55
is very ‘old-school’ but probably made clearer with Revell’s available from all good toy and model stores. For details visit
contemporary colour instructions, a decent cockpit, landing gear www.revell.de/en
Wingnut Wings Vol 2

O
R’S GUIDE T
AIR MODELLE
WINGNUT
WINGS VOLUME 2
back by popular demand

VOLUME 1
For all trade enquiries please contact
keith@afvmodeller.com
w w w. a f v m o d e l l e r . c o m
HK Model’s De Havilland
Mosquito B Mk IV
MIDNIGHT
Modelled by Richard Camoin
What is there to say about the mosquito that has not which is really well protected thanks to the presence of cardboard
been said already?... De Havilland’s vision to design and build cradle with vertical rods of bunches preventing any potential
such a beautiful bird which was comfortable in daytime or damage. The fuselage is split vertically into front and back,
nighttime in many roles was a marked success. Good references designed with the very latest moulding technology and avoiding
in excellent books in several languages detail the subject at length the usual split down the central spine. As it turns out we’ll see that
and the ‘Mossie’ continues to be a popular modelling subject. this feature wasn’t a bonus in my case. One thing to bear in mind
is that the Mossie is rather large in 1:32! something to consider if
HK Model’s kit has been on the market a short while now, on your workbench needs a tidy-up and if you need to persuade
opening the huge box I was immediately impressed overall, a anyone (especially my wife!) that this large model is worthy of
couple of features got my attention; the sprue of transparent parts display when finished...
58
Aftermarket parts used are the Eduard photoetch for

the interior (32840), the harnesses (32841), the stencils
(JX182), the Brassin wheels (632061) and the Decals
from Eagle Cal 32167 (Grim Reaper HS-F DK333 109
Sqn 1944). Other improvements were made using
Evergreen profile and various copper wires.
59
To allow access to the side-walls of the cockpit the front section is cut thanks to a Tiger saw. This part
is a very impressive piece of moulding but as the cockpit on the Mossie is very visible I wanted to raise
the level of detail. The cut is so fine I was assured a good fit when rejoining the halves.
The driver's seat is detailed with photoetch and the harness tension system is scratch-built in plastic
card and wire. The seat pad was ground with a motor tool to a more realistic shape then the plastic The radio position and the rear deck of the cockpit
smoothed with Mr Hobby liquid glue. are detailed with Evergreen profiles, photoetch,
lead and copper wires using the reference I had
gathered.
The transmitter support is created from scratch

with sprue and Evergreen stock.
The same goes for the R. 1155 receiver which is
nicely finished with the Eduard photoetch panels.
Interior Green from Aeromaster

(1120) was used as a base colour
The leather effect is made with
Prince August acrylic "Brown Yellow
912" with a Winsor & Newton Brown
Mader Alizarin oil paint wash. The
harnesses are shaped to have a
This is where the best reference is realistic drape on the seats.
essential; various diameters of lead The cables were painted with
and copper wire with plastic stock Warhammer Citadel acrylic paint as
create a busy and detailed cockpit. were all the bright colours of the
cockpit. The instrument panel and
various case dials come from the
pre-painted Eduard photoetch.
60
The landing gear legs

have the brake hoses
redone in copper wire
and nut heads are made
with a punch and die.
The assembly of the wings is Eduard Brassin wheels add that extra
simple to follow even with all touch of detail and are beautifully cast.
of the posable control
surfaces.
HK have taken advantage of slide-mould

technology with the design of the fuselage which
results in a much smaller joint than the traditional
horizontal split along the full length. The cut I’d
made to split the forward section joined perfectly.
Engines are provided although

I decided to display the model
The interior of the wheel wells are in Interior Green with closed cowls. Detail is
good and a solid basis for
from Aeromaster and ‘springs’ are created with
some extra wiring and
pieces of guitar strings with a realistic effect.
plumbing detail.
A coat of gloss varnish helps with the flow of the
dark washes which really enhance the detail. A
coat of matt varnish later gives a satisfying finish.
Fuel tanks were finished in Gunze H47 with the

same varnish and dark wash treatment as the
landing gear. Very small amounts of white oil paint
carefully blended was used throughout to create
highlights.The fit of all of the major pieces is very
good with only a small amount of filler required.
The tail wheel assembly is

nicely designed with good
detail, adequate for what can
be seen on the finished model.
61
Without too much fuss the big

Mossie is ready for paint. Before
firing up the compressor the
usual careful masking process
was necessary. The first pass of
colour was more interior green
around the canopy frame. This
will be visible on the inside after
subsequent colours.
The first coat was XF-62

‘Ocean Grey’ from Tamiya
applied overall to a solid
appearance, shading will
be applied later.
I find kitchen ‘cling film’

handy for masking
complex shapes such as
the landing gear here.
To make the camouflage masks, I used Mig's

"Camouflage Masking Putty". It is a very
simple product to use which does not leave
a trace once removed. It is kneaded and
made into rolls as with modelling clay. The
trickiest thing is to place it exactly where you
want it. 3M low adhesion masking tape filled
the rest of the pattern to protect the grey.
The moment of truth! Removing your

masking can go two ways, either disaster
or great satisfaction. Thankfully all was
well after my application of Tamiya XF-82
and I was ready for weathering and
shading once everything had chance to
completely dry.
62
Both shades are now weathered, aged and scratched. The Ocean Grey is worked with
subtle airbrushed tones in Tamiya XF-66 Light Grey, the Dark Green has been broken up
with diluted Tamiya XF-22 RLM Grey. Structure lines and camouflage boundaries are
enhanced with translucent Tamiya X-19 Smoke. The panel lines are darkened with a
graphite pencil lead of 0.3mm diameter. Light blue-grey watercolor crayons are used to
simulate scratches on our mosquito's skin, easier to control than a brush for fine and sharp
marks and also easily manipulated or removed with water. It’s worth remembering that
most of the Mossie’s airframe was a wooden construction so the usual exposed metal
surfaces don’t apply.
To achieve the black of the lower surfaces,

Tamiya XF-69 Nato Black was first airbrushed on
the entire surface. All of the tonal shades are
made thanks to Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black and XF-63
German Grey. These shades are sprayed at low
pressure and very diluted in order to control the
effects. The contrasts were pushed a little as the
subsequent varnishes will diffuse the strength a
little.
Mr Hobby Topcoat Gloss varnish is applied from

the aerosol prior to the installation of the Eagle Cal
decals of the 109 Squadron with superb ‘Reaper’
nose art. The decals applied without any issues
and were sealed with another pass of Topcoat
Gloss.
63
All that was left now was to give the final sealing
coat of matt varnish, remove the canopy masking
and do the final fit of the propellors, bomb bay
doors and the antennae (made with fishing line).
64
HK Models continue to make their mark on the

large scale aircraft kit market with quality
releases of very builder-friendly kits...now what
of that 1:32 Lancaster...
MIDNIGHT
65

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qxp_Layout 1 12/01/2018 14:49 Page 1

20 Bella Ballila part 2

36 King Cobra part 1

Meng AIR Modeller is published Bimonthly by

Giving the lack of open cowls the new kit’s

Another interesting feature of this new 1:48 Fw 190 A-4

Different transparent parts are provided

Removing the engine cowls is

Wheel well detail is very nice and

Heavily diluted gloss

Painting was done according to the instructions. For the metallic

Eduards own Brassin

The airbrushed exhaust stains

My conclusion is that I can only say in terms

This kit is a joy from the moment you open

Lorenzo Borgesa super-details the Modelsvit kit

Since the fuselage does not have locating pins, I created

Given the amount of self-made parts, it is important to verify that

The doors of the various internal bulkheads were made with

Some very dark blue oil

The smaller details and highlights

In the areas subjected to crew wear,

After closing the fuselage and filling

The rear view dome is slightly oversized and made of very

The landing gear doors and legs are pretty well

Transparent parts fit pretty well to the fuselage,

Since the model is completely light grey, it is

After a general wash with a dark grey, I

Immediately after application, the oil colour was ‘pulled’ vertically on

Even in 1:72 the Be-12 has great

Once the epoxy had dried I

The project continues in the next issue.

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ACADEMY’S 1:48 SUKHOI SU-27

MODELLED BY GREGA KRIZMAN

Having bought the kit almost 20 years ago, I

The build started by throwing away almost half of the kit

My painting procedure started with afterburner cans and exhausts covers

For the camouflage patches the

D E CA L S A N D The decals responded well to the Micro Sol and Micro

A display base was made out of MDF board with

ANDREA VIGNOCCHI KIT-BASHES HIS WAY TO THIS BEAUTIFUL BELL AH-1W

I started the fuselage preparation: the Armycast set

The turret has an unacceptable detail level

Continuing with the dry tests I found the

Finally I begin to paint: the Cobra interior is all in zinc chromate

More commitment is required to colour the cockpit that will

Armoured seats can have cushions and belts of various colours;

Revell 1:32 P-51D-5NA Mustang

Wingnut Wings 1:32 Sopwith 5F.1 Dolphin

Eduard 1:48 Avia B-534 III

AK Interactive, Real Colors

Model Art 1:32 NF-104A Conversion

Scale Aircraft Conversions

Swedish Jet Fighter

32917 32416 32415

Wings Cockpit Figures

Hot Skies over Yemen

Revell 1:48 IL-2 Stormovik