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TEXTILE LABS

WET PROCESSING LAB MANUAL


TX-232

School of Science and Technology


University of Management and
Technology
C-II,Johar Town,Lahore-54770,Pakistan
http:/www.umt.edu.pk
TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. Wet Processing Calculations

2. Acid Desizing of Cotton fabrics

3. Enzyme Desizing of Cotton fabrics

4. Caustic Scouring Treatment

5. Bleaching with H2O2

6. Application of Direct dyes on Cotton

7. Application of Reactive dyes on Cotton

8. Application of Disperse dyes on Polyester

9. Application of Acid dyes on Wool

10. Application of finishes (Softener, Resin & Other finishes)

11. Color Matching (4-5 practical using different dyestuffs)


Lab # 1
ACID DESIZING OF COTTON FABRICS

Objective:
To understand the process of Desizing and know the application method and
chemicals used in this process

Apparatus:

 Sized Fabric
 Weighing scale
 Water
 Hydrochloric acid(Hcl)
 pH meter
 Pot dyeing machine
Theory:

During the weaving process, warp yarns undergo a sizing process. In this
process, yarn is run through a size solution and then dried so that it has
the strength and stiffness required to withstand the abrasion and friction
generated in the weaving operation. In the Desizing process,
the size must be removed so that dyeing or printing process can be
performed because the presence of size interfere with coloration process.
Procedure:

1. Cut a sample from the sized fabric and weight 10 grams on a weighing
machine
2. Prepare the size bath as follows
3. Using the liquor ratio (L:R) 1:10, calculate the water required and show
the calculation on the results sheet
4. Calculate the amount of HCL using 1.0% owg and show the calculation
on the results sheet
5. Calculate the amount of wetting agent Using 1 g/liter and show the
calculation on the results sheet
6. After adding the above chemicals, insert the fabric in a port and load the
port to the pot dyeing machine
7. Set the temperature to 60°C and time 45 minutes
8. Run the machine

Make your own De sizing Recipe:


1. Quantity of Total Water required
2. Quantity of HCL acid required
3. Quantity of Wetting agent required
4. Explain the appearance of desized sample
5. Explain the hand-feel of desized sample
6. Check the absorbency of the desized sample
7. Summarize the experiment in your own words

LAB # 3
ENZYME DESIZING OF COTTON FABRICS

Objective:
To understand the process of Desizing and know the application method and
chemicals used in this process

Apparatus:

 Sized Fabric
 Weighing scale
 Water
 Bactasol CA (Clariant Pakistan/any enzyme)
 pH meter
 Pot dyeing machine
Theory:
During the weaving process, warp yarns undergo a sizing process. In this
process, yarn is run through a size solution and then dried so that it has the
strength and stiffness required to withstand the abrasion and friction generated
in the weaving operation. In the Desizing process, the size must be removed so
that dyeing or printing process can be performed because the Presence of size
Interfere with coloration process.

Procedure:
1. Cut a sample from the sized fabric and weight 10 grams on a weighing
machine
2. Prepare the size bath as follows
3. Using the liquor ratio (L:R) 1:10, calculate the water required and show the
calculation on the results sheet
4. Using the acetic acid, adjust the pH of Bath between 4.5-5.5
5. Calculate the amount of Bactasol (or any other available enzymes) Using
1.50% owg and show the calculation on the results sheet
6. Calculate the amount of wetting agent Using 1 g/liter and show the
calculation on the results sheet
7. After adding the above chemicals, insert the fabric in a port and load the port
to the pot dyeing machine
8. Set the temperature to 60°C and time 30 minutes
9. Run the machine
Make your own Desizing Recipe:
1. Quantity of Total Water required
2. Quantity of acetic acid to maintain the pH between 4.5-5.5
3. Quantity of Bactasol required
4. Quantity of Wetting agent required
5. Explain the appearance of desized sample
6. Explain the hand-feel of desized sample
7. Check the absorbency of the desized sample
8. Compare the above properties with the sample desized in experiment-1
9. Summarize the experiment in your own words

Lab # 4
Caustic Scouring Treatment
Objective:
To understand the process of Caustic Scouring and know the application
method and chemicals used in this process
Apparatus:
 Greige fabric
 Weighing scale
 Water
 Caustic soda (flakes)
 Wetting agent & Detergent
 pH meter
 Pot dyeing machine
Theory:
Scouring is kind of washing process for fibers, yarns or fabrics to remove
contaminants like dirt, natural waxes or oils used during the manufacturing of
textile products. Oils and waxes are saponified (converted into soaps), the plant
matter is softened, pectin’s and other non-cellulosic materials are suspended so
they can be washed away. After a predetermined amount of time to allow for
complete scouring, the alkali, saponified waxes and suspended materials are
rinsed away with water. On cotton fibers, this treatment removes fatty and hectic
substance, yarn waxes and knitting oils, thus increasing the absorbency in
textile martial. The scouring process applied to synthetic fibers removes
oils, lubricants, anti-static chemicals, dust, contaminants etc. Scouring is
usually carried out in soft water with caustic soda and with some textile
auxiliaries such as wetting agents, detergents, emulsifying agents, sequestering
agents, and solvents. Alkali (Caustic soda) also swells the fiber, making it more
receptive for subsequent processes.
Procedure:
1. Cut a sample from the Greige / Ecru fabric and weight 10 grams on a
weighing machine
2. Prepare the scour bath as follows
3. Using the liquor ratio (L:R) 1:15, calculate the water required and show the
calculation on the results sheet
4. Calculate the amount of caustic soda using 5 g/l and show the calculation on
the results sheet
5. Calculate the amounts of wetting agent & Detergents using 1 g/liter and
show the calculation on the results sheet
6. After adding the above chemicals, insert the fabric in a port and load the port
to the pot dyeing machine
7. Set the temperature to 80Deg C and time 45 minutes
8. Run the machine
Make your own Scouring Recipe:
1. Quantity of Total Water required
2. Quantity of Caustic Soda required
3. Quantity of Wetting agent required
4. Quantity of Detergent required
5. Explain the appearance of scoured sample
6. Explain the hand-feel of scoured sample
7. Check the absorbency of the scoured sample
8. Write down the pH of bath before and at the end of scouring
9. Summarize the experiment in your own words

LAB # 5
Bleaching with Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2)

Objective:

To understand the process of H202 bleaching and know the application


method and chemicals used in this process

Apparatus:
 Greige fabric
 Weighing scale
 Water
 H2O2 bleach
 OBA (optical Brightening agent)
 Caustic soda
 Stabilizer
 Wetting agent
 pH meter
 Pot dyeing machine
Theory:

The bleaching process is very important process in wet processing; it targets


several goals that need to be achieved:
High and standardized absorptive of fabric for water, dyestuff and finishing agent,
achieved by eliminating hydrophobic impurities from the natural fibers.
Adequately sharp and standardized level of whiteness, which is stable to storage.
Removal of remaining impurities like cottonseeds.
There are two kinds of bleaching, pre-bleach (half bleach) and Optical bleach (full
bleach). Pre-bleaching is done for light and bright shades. Optical bleach is
performed on fabrics which are sold as White.

Procedure:

1. Cut 2 samples from the greige fabric and weight 10 grams each on a
weighing machine
2. Prepare 2 bleach baths as follows:

BLEACH-A (Pre-bleach):

1. Using the liquor ratio (L:R) 1:10, calculate the water required and show the
calculation on the results sheet
2. Calculate the amount of H2O2 using 2.5 g/l and show the calculation on the
results sheet
3. Calculate the amount of Caustic Soda 1.5 g/liter and show the calculation on
the results sheet
4. Calculate the amounts of Stabilizer & Wettings agents, using 1.0 g/liter and
show the calculations on the results sheet
5. After adding the above chemicals, insert the fabric in a port and load the port
to the pot dyeing machine
6. Set the temperature to 100°C and time 60 minutes
7. Run the machine

BLEACH-B (Optical Bleach):

1. Using the liquor ratio (L:R) 1:10, calculate the water required and show the
calculation on the results sheet
2. Calculate the amount of H2O2 using 5.0 g/l and show the calculation on the
results sheet
3. Calculate the amount of Caustic Soda 2.0 g/liter and show the calculation on
the results sheet
4. Add 0.05% (owg) Optical Brightening agent (OBA); show calculations
5. Calculate the amounts of Stabilizer & Wettings agents, using 1.0 g/liter and
show the calculations on the results sheet
6. After adding the above chemicals, insert the fabric in a port and load the port
to the pot dyeing machine
7. Set the temperature to 100°C and time 60 minutes
8. Run the machine

Make your own Desizing Recipe:


1. Quantity of Total Water required
2. Quantity of H2O2 required
3. Quantity of OBA required
4. Quantities of Caustic, Stabilizer, and Wetting agents required
5. Compare the Whiteness of both bleach samples
6. Explain the hand-feel of both samples
7. Check the absorbency of both samples and compare with the greige
sample
8. Write down the pH of both baths (A&B) before and at the end of
bleaching
9. Summarize the experiment in your own words
LAB # 6

Application of Direct Dyes on Cotton

Objective:
To understand the process of direct dyeing and know the application method
and chemicals used in this process

Apparatus:
 Semi-bleached fabric
 Weighing scale
 Water
 Direct Dyes (Red, yellow, Blue)
 Glauber or Common Salt
 Wetting agent
 pH meter
 Pot dyeing machine

Theory:
Direct dye class is based on application method, which is essentially by
immersion of the fiber in a solution of dye without the need for other chemicals
to bond the dye to the fiber (though other chemicals may aid exhaustion); Direct
dyes have high substantively, but bond weakly to fibers, and therefore usually
have poor wash fastness. These dyes are only used for cellulosic fibers.
Procedure:

1. Cut a sample from the semi-bleached fabric and weight 10 grams on a


weighing machine
2. Prepare the dye bath as follows:
3. Weight all three direct dyes in % owg , according to the lab instructor’s recipe
given to each group.
4. Using the liquor ratio (L:R) 1:15, calculate the water required and show the
calculation on the results sheet
5. Calculate the amount of Gulaber salt using 50 g/l and show the calculation
on the results sheet
6. Calculate the amounts of wetting agent using 1 g/liter and show the
calculation on the results sheet
7. After adding the above chemicals, insert semi-bleached fabric in a port and
load the port to the pot dyeing machine
8. Set the temperature to 80°C and time 45 minutes
9. Run the machine

Make your own Scouring Recipe:


1. Quantity of Total Water required
2. Quantity of each dyes required
3. Quantity of Glauber salt required
4. Explain the color of dyed sample
5. Write down the pH of bath before and at the end of scouring
6. Observe and discuss the dye bath drain
7. Summarize the experiment in your own words

LAB # 7
Application of Reactive Dyes on Cotton
Objective:
To understand the process of reactive dyeing and know the application method
and chemicals used in this process
Apparatus:
 Semi-bleached fabric
 Weighing scale
 Water
 Reactive Dyes (Red, yellow, Blue)
 Caustic Soda or Soda ash
 Gulaber or Common Salt
 Wetting agent
 pH meter
 Pot dyeing machine

Theory:
Reactive dyes form strong covalent bonds with cellulosic fibers like cotton and
regenerated cellulosic like viscose rayon. The formation of the covalent bond between
dye and fiber means reactive dyes give extremely high wash and wet fastness
properties. Because each dye has its own ideal temperature and pH conditions, it is
best to consult the manufacturer's recommendations when deciding upon the dye
recipe. After dyeing, any unfixed dye should be removed, and thorough soaping carried
out. Deep colors should undergo fixing, but care must be taken due to the possibility of
the deterioration of the fastness to light.
Procedure:
1. Cut a sample from the semi-bleached fabric and weight 10 grams on a weighing
machine
2. Prepare the reactive dye bath as follows:
3. Weight all three reactive dyes in % owg. According to the lab instructor’s recipe given
to each group.
4. Using the liquor ratio (L:R) 1:8, calculate the water required and show the calculation
on the results sheet
5. Calculate the amount of Glauber salt using 50 g/l and show the calculation on the
results sheet
6. Calculate the amount of Caustic soda using 1.0 g/l or Soda ash using 20 g/l and show
the calculation on the results sheet
7. Calculate the amounts of wetting agent using 1 g/liter and show the calculation on the
results sheet
8. After adding the above chemicals, insert semi-bleached fabric in a port and load the
port to the pot dyeing machine
9. Set the temperature to 60°C and time 60 minutes
10. Run the machine

Make your own Scouring Recipe:


1. Quantity of Total Water required
2. Quantity of each dyes required
3. Quantity of Gulaber salt required
4. Quantity of Caustic or Soda ash required
5. Explain the color of dyed sample
6. Write down the pH of bath before and at the end of scouring
7. Observe and discuss the dye bath drain
8. Summarize the experiment in your own words

LAB # 8
Application of Disperse Dyes on Polyester
Objective:
To understand the process of disperse dyeing and know the application method
and chemicals used in this process

Apparatus:
 Scoured 100% polyester
 Weighing scale
 Water
 Disperse Dyes (Red, yellow, Blue)
 Acetic acid
 Buffer
 Dispersing /Wetting agent
 Carrier
 pH meter
 Pot dyeing machine
Theory:
Disperse dyes are applied to polyester. Polyester has a tightly packed molecular
structure called a crystalline structure. It is hydrophobic or water hating. Heat opens up
the crystalline structure to allow disperse dye molecules to enter the fiber from solution
where they have been held in suspension. The dye is trapped in the fiber upon cooling
and held by physical forces to produce good fastness properties. Disperse dyes may
be applied at elevated temperatures from pressurized vessels or at the boil with the
assistance of a chemical called a carrier.
Procedure:
1. Cut a sample from the scoured polyester fabric and weight 10 grams on a weighing
machine
2. Prepare the disperse dye bath as follows:
3. Weight all three disperse dyes in % owg , according to the lab instructor’s recipe given
to each group.
4. Using the liquor ratio (L:R) 1:6, calculate the water required and show the calculation
on the results sheet
5. Calculate the amount of acetic acid to adjust the pH in the range of 4.5 to 5.5; show
the calculation on the results sheet
6. Calculate the amounts of buffer and dispersing agents using 1g/l each, and show the
calculation on the results sheet
7. After adding the above chemicals, insert polyester fabric in a port and load the port to
the pot dyeing machine
8. Set the temperature to 130°C and time 45 minutes
9. Run the machine
10. Repeat the same procedure with 2 g/l carrier at 100°C for 60 minutes.

Make your own Scouring Recipe:


1. Quantity of Total Water required
2. Quantity of each dyes required
3. Quantity of acetic acid required
4. Quantity of buffer, dispersing/wetting agent required
5. Quantity of Carrier required in the case of atmospheric dyeing
6. Explain the color of each sample and make a comparison
7. Write down the pH of bath before and at the end of dyeing
8. Observe and discuss the dye bath drain
9. Summarize the experiment in your own words

LAB # 9
Application of Acid Dyes on Wool
Objective:
To understand the process of acid dyeing and know the application method and
chemicals used in this process

Apparatus:
 Wool fabric
 Weighing scale
 Water
 Acid Dyes (Red, yellow, Blue)
 Acetic acid
 Wetting agent
 pH meter
 Pot dyeing machine

Theory:
Acid dyes have a direct affinity for protein fibers and are the main class of dyestuff for
dyeing wool. Nylon also has an affinity for acid dyes. The attraction between dye and
fiber is the result of negatively charged dye particles called anions associating with
positively charged basic groups in the fiber generally under acid conditions.

Procedure:
1. Cut a sample from wool fabric and weight 10 grams on a weighing machine
2. Prepare the reactive dye bath as follows:
3. Weight all three rective dyes in % owg , according to the lab instructor’s recipe given to
each group.
4. Using the liquor ratio (L:R) 1:10, calculate the water required and show the calculation
on the results sheet
5. Calculate the amount of acetic acid to adjust the pH in the range of 4.5 to 5.5; show
the calculation on the results sheet
6. After adding the above chemicals, insert wool fabric in a port and load the port to the
pot dyeing machine
7. Set the temperature to 95°C and time 45 minutes
8. Run the machine

Make your own Scouring Recipe:


1. Quantity of Total Water required
2. Quantity of each dyes required
3. Quantity of acetic acid required
4. Explain the color of dyed sample
5. Write down the pH of bath before and at the end of scouring
6. Observe and discuss the dye bath drain
7. Summarize the experiment in your own words
LAB # 10
Application of Finishes
Objective:
To understand the process of finishing and know the application method and chemicals
used in this process

Apparatus:
 Different finishes like Softener, enzyme
 Weighing scale
 Water
 Acetic acid
 pH meter
 Pot dyeing machine

Theory:
Textile finishing is also a very critical process in textile wet processing. After the
completion of dyeing process, it is important to give certain aesthetical and special
characteristics to the bleached or dyed fabric like hand feel, softness, easy care, wash
& wear, silk wash, etc. These finishes add value in the product and differentiate from
other products. Nowadays, finishing has become a vital part of bleaching & dyeing.

Procedure:
1. Cut a sample from the fabric and weight 15 grams on a weighing machine
2. Lab instructor will decide finish type for each group
3. Prepare the finish bath as follows:
4. Using the liquor ratio (L:R) 1:10, calculate the water required and show the calculation
on the results sheet
5. Calculate the amount of finish (softener, enzyme, etc) using the quantity (g/l) given by
the lab instructor; show the calculations.
6. Use the temperature & time as specified by the lab instructor

Make your own Scouring Recipe:


1. Quantity of Total Water required
2. Quantity of each finishes required
3. Explain the hand feel of finished sample
4. Discuss other properties like hairiness, stiffness, brightness of finished fabric
5. Write down the pH of bath before and at the end of finishing
6. Observe and discuss the finish bath drain
7. Summarize the experiment in your own words
LAB # 11
Color Matching (4-5 practical using different dyestuffs)
Objective:
To understand the color matching process and know the application method and
equipment used in this process

Apparatus:
 Shade cards
 Dyes and chemicals according to the class (Reactive, Disperse,
Acid, etc.)
 Light box
 Pot dyeing machine

Theory:
Many textile related industries utilizes different color matching systems, which could be:
 Manual color matching
 Computer color matching
 Or combination of both.
Nowadays, many dye-houses have computer-assisted methods of color matching, but
manual color matching is still most widely used. In this process, dyer select 2 to 3 dyes
and combine them in a specific quantities so that he get a particular shade or depth.
Most of the time, yellow, red and blue dyes can make almost all light and medium
shades. Dark shades are made by the help of Navy and Black dyes. Dyer makes the
first recipe by estimation with the help of self-shades or previously dyed recipes. Once
he gets a somewhat closer shade, he makes trials by altering the quantities of dyestuff
in the recipe. The skill to choose the correct dyes or pigment combinations, based on
the criteria of performance, for example washing fastness, light fastness, shade
reproducibility, cost, etc. is also important
Procedure:
1. A particular shade will be given by lab instructor to each group
2. Determine the fiber contents and dyes used
3. Select the dyes you believe as most suitable color for this particular shade
4. Get the dyes and chemicals based on the dyes class (Reactive, Disperse, Acid) etc.
5. Follow the dyeing procedure as performed in previous labs
6. After drying and proper conditioning, compare the shade with the standard shade
7. If shade requires correction, repeat the procedure until shade is matched to the
standard.

Instructor Verification:
It is verified that all the steps in this experiment were done properly.

___________________
Signature
Worksheet
Experiment-11 Group#:…………………………

Names: IDs:
1. ...……………………………. ……... ...……………………………. ……

2. ………………………………………. …………………………………….

3. ………………………………………. …………………………………….

4. ……………………………………… …………………………………….

5. ……………………………………… ………………………………………

Standard Shade

Shade after Shade after


Attempt-1 Attempt-2

Shade after Shade after


Attempt-3 Attempt-4

Shade after
Attempt-5

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