TABLE OF CONTENT

Page #

1. Profile Page …………………………………………………………………………………… I

2. Acknowledgement II

3. Introduction III

4. Content Page IV
5. Overview of the fashion Industry 1-9

6. Tools & Equipment 10-17

7. Fabric Library…………………………………………………………………………………. 18-25

8. Fabric Construction …………………………………………………………………………. 26-30

9. Elements & Principles of Design .....………………………………………………………. 31-38

10. Dart Manipulation …………………………………………………………………………… 39-43

11. Lay Up Pattern Pieces ……………………………………………………………………… 44-47

12. Collars ………………………………………………………………………………………... 48-52

13. Sleeves ………………………………………………………………………………………. 53-56

14. Pockets ………………………………………………………………………………………. 57-58

15. Conclusion …………………………………………………………………………………… 59

16. Bibliography …………………………………………………………………………………. 60

 18TH – 21ST CENTURY TEENAGE FASHION
The end of World War I brought a new sense of freedom and independence to women in the
United States. It was during this decade that the “flapper” emerged, a new type of young American
woman whose clothing screamed modernity. Prior to the 1920s, American women aimed to look
older than their actual age, but with the implementation of the 19th Amendment in 1919,
guaranteeing women’s suffrage, women began to strive to look younger and younger. Women
began to wear looser fitting garments while hemlines rose to an unprecedented knee-length level,
abandoning the more restricting and uncomfortable fashions of the preceding decades. American
women of the 1920s often “bobbed”, or cut, their hair short to fit under the iconic cloche, a snug-
fit hat made of felt that was worn tilted in order to cover the forehead and, at times, the ears. The
flapper style dress and cloche hat were often worn together, particularly during the latter half of
the decade.

In terms of buying clothing high school age kids in the 1920’s were either children/youth up to
age 14 or small women. Since the ideal style was for women to look like young girls, there was
very little difference between women’s fashion and teen clothing. Both liked
loose, dropped waist dresses in bright colors and fun straw or cloche hats with all the rich
trimmings women enjoyed too. Teens loved the movies and copied every fashion they saw,
scouring over movie magazines, and looking up to older siblings who went off to college and
came back as flappers! They were the first to adopt new styles, often against the wishes
of parents and strict school policies. They rolled their stockings, bobbed their hair, wore brain-
binders (tight ribbon headbands), wore makeup (after leaving the house), and played sports.
In winter they wore rubber overshoes (galoshes. Teens liked to undo the buckles and let them
“flap” flap” flap” as they walked. Some history books think this may be an explanation for where
the name “flapper” came from.
American men of the 1920s began to dress less formally than ever before. During the decade,
men abandoned suit lapels of the 1910s, opting instead for cuffed trousers, flannel jackets, and
two-toned shoes for casual wear. In addition, both men and young boys began wearing short
knee pants, known in the U.S. as knickers, topped with lightweight sweaters and casual button-
down shirts. Men’s shirts in the 1920s were often made of stripes in a mixture of colors, mainly
pastel greens, blues, and yellows, contrasted with a white collar. Bow ties also rose to popularity
during this era.

Until the 1950s, people between the ages of 15 and 20 had simply been regarded as young adults.
But the 1950s saw the coining of a new term—teenager. For the first time, young people wanted,
and got, their own fashions. New trends started in the street and worked their way into the pages
of fashion magazines. Many girls wore slim, tapered pants, often with a high waist, and paired
these with a figure-hugging sweater. Some styles of pants stopped above the ankles; capri pants
were cut off at mid-calf. Pants were frequently made in artificial fibers. Sweaters could be close-
fitting and short, extending just to the waist. They were sometimes worn with a matching cardigan
in a “twinset.” Or they were oversized in chunky knits, often with dropped armholes, which created
bat-wing sleeves. This “sloppy Joe” sweater hid the shape of the upper body, while the legs were
defined in narrow, tapered pants. The sweater may have had a roll neck, but if it had a V-neck,
this was often filled in with a scarf, rows of pearls, or beads. The 1950s produced some of the
most elegant and sumptuous ball gowns and prom dresses. Strapless gowns with a boned, fitted
bodice topped clouds of taffeta, organza, and tulle in fantasy dresses inspired by Hollywood
movies. Today, they could be put together using a basque and lengths of net or tulle.
As a new, more liberated society evolved, teenagers became a marketing man's dream. 1950's
teenagers had comparatively huge spending power compared to pre 1950 youth. Their spending
power enabled them to make self-indulgent purchases, sometimes with even more freedom than
adults. The teenagers were keen to find special clothes designed just for teens. Eager to capture
this extra cash, manufacturers began to look toward the teenage market concentrating on younger
desires rather than the desires of the middle aged and elder populations. Ironically as the
population once again ages in the noughties, marketers have begun to focus on the very same
generation that held influence over the economy in the 1950s and 1960s.

In the 1960s when the teenage girls went to school they would wear skirts, over the course of the
decade, the hemlines would shorten a little, a very little to just above the knee.There were a lot of
different trends in the 1960s. In the middle of the decade,culottes, box-shaped dresses and go-
go boots were in style.Mary Quant invented the mini skirt. Another trend that emerged during the
60s was distinct separations between the styles of clothing worn by men and women, the 1960’s
introduced a new phenomenon: unisex clothing such as denim jeans and leather jackets that
could be worn by everyone.
Setting the precedence for change and modernity, the youth counterculture movements of the
1960s allowed for fashion trends to flourish in the 1970’s. But unlike the in the 1960s, Americans
in the 1970s took a step back from political movements, choosing instead to focus on themselves.
Many have referred to this shift as a “return to normalcy”, giving the 1970s its nickname as the
“Me” Decade. With women entering the workforce more than ever before, pantsuits and daywear
with a masculine edge were popularized among youth.

Fashion in the early 1980s was similar to that of the 1970s. But by 1984, pop stars such as
Madonna and Cyndi Lauper brought a new sense of style to the decade, one that focused on
pushing boundaries with creative patterns, funky color combinations, and unique styles. Women
began sporting skin-tight cotton leggings, pairing them with chunky sweaters and oversized, off-
the-shoulder tops. In addition, young women also wore loose-fitting parachute pants topped with
figure hugging crop tops that stopped just above the belly button. Layered clothing also gained
popularity. For example, mini skirts, made of either denim or spandex, were often paired with
leggings or legwarmers. Accessories were a huge staple during this period, particularly for
teenagers and young adults. Women often wore brightly-colored glasses, several chunky
bangles, and giant hoop earrings for casual wear. Hair was often permed to achieve high volume
and makeup featured bold eye shadow, heavy foundation, and bright lipstick.
Adults of the early 1990s wore relaxed fit jeans with plain T-shirts and knit sweaters while teenage
and pre-teen girls often opted for brightly-colored neon clothing: hot pinks, greens, blues, oranges,
and yellows. By 1995, wide leg jeans of the 1970s were revived along with the advent of chunky
black boots and the baby doll t-shirt, popular among young women and teenage girls.
The 2000s saw a revival of 1960s style as more and more boys began sporting black leather
jackets, motorcycle boots, and Ed Hardy T-shirts as well as accessories. Teenage boys during
the 2000s often opted for slim fitting pants topped with two-buttoned blazer jackets, a button-down
shirt, and a thin tie. During the latter half of the 2000s, boys began sporting tighter fitting clothing
than ever before.

The 21st century teenager is no more coy about sharing views on clothing and accessories. In
fact, teen fashion trends are preludes to what adorns the ramp in the 'adult fashion' genre.
Teenagers are bolder, smarter, and more defined in their sense of fashion, now than ever
before. Clothing for teenagers is being sold off the rack online, as well as offline. Teenagers
around the world are not only among the foremost buyers of trendy apparel.
 ADVANCED
DRESSMAKING
PORTFOLIO
Garmex Heart Academy
January - March 2019
Instructor: Mr.Damain Logan

Student : Kerry Anne Dwyer-Rowe

 BIBLIOGRAPHY
https://www.stylevore.com/2885-2/

https://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fashion-history-eras/history-childrens-clothing

https://www.fashion-era.com/fashion_eras.htm

https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/category/21st-century/
YEAR OVERVIEW

1855
1850-1859, 19th century, year overview
Women’s fashion was ornate above all else in 1855, with the hoop skirt reigning prominently in
conjunction with brightly colored silks and satins accessorized with all varieties of tasteful
trimmings.

1863
1860-1869, 19th century, year overview
1863 saw the crinoline still reigning triumphant with full bell-shaped skirts and tiny, nipped-in
corseted waists the ideal silhouette—in part due to the support of the French Empress Eugénie. In
more avant-garde circles, some were beginning to abandon the crinoline.
1865
1860-1869, 19th century, year overview
In 1865 the shape of the crinoline had shifted—flattening in the front, with greater fullness in the
back. Blue, neutral, and striped fabrics were quite popular and often accented with contrasting
trimmings.

1867
1860-1869, 19th century, year overview
1867 saw an increasing popularity of princess-cut dresses (those without a waist seam) as well as a
greater emphasis on back volume as the crinoline begins to disappear. Men’s trousers began to be
more narrowly cut in the “French style.”
1871
1870-1879, 19th century, year overview
The beginning of 1871 saw a brief pause in fashion change due to the Franco-Prussian War and Paris
Commune. The bustle (or tournure) with a half-train was the most desirable silhouette, often paired
with a tablier, or apron-fronted skirt.

1886
1880-1889, 19th century, year overview
Extreme bustles, striped patterns, and elaborate embellishments were all staples of the year 1886,
characterizing it as a time of highly exaggerated and decorative fashion.
1856
1850-1859, 19th century, year overview
In 1856, women’s dresses were made mostly in silk, cotton, and velvet, and their silhouettes
consisted of bodices fitted to the waist and full bell skirts that were accessorized with flounces,
stripes, trims, and flowers.

1864
1860-1869, 19th century, year overview
1864 womenswear featured dresses adorned and trimmed lavishly with ruffles, bows, and lace,
among many other luxurious fabrics.
1866
1860-1869, 19th century, year overview
In 1866 belted dresses became quite fashionable—replacing the pointed bodices previously en vogue.
Ribbon trimmings were preferred to artificial flowers.

1869
1860-1869, 19th century, year overview
In 1869, women were beginning to wear bustled silhouettes, often with trains. Bright synthetic dyes
continued to be popular and a taste for 18th-century revival elements like the polonaise was growing.
1876
1870-1879, 19th century, year overview
1876 was a year that abided by the rule of “more is more”, as the most fashionable styles at the time
included dramatic bustle silhouettes, combinations of multiple fabrics on a single garment, and
extravagant trimmings.