By Lionel Crabbe
| You will need
| Awood
06 55 [20mm hawe
| eosnss* \ RO hawdnced
1 en adle onging 040°
| 6 Lown spindle gouge
;
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| 6 Gun voundpaw skew chisel
ack ith sme Js
| 2 ow ave srr
\ sing CETTE
* pevaing
| Ree Tean toner to
\ reowney
\ acim length oF 1.5
dcp ae
« Aorasive £07920 ort
eat yon chece
This item is called a kendama. We haven't room here
to tell you how to turn a sphere, so you could either buy
cone ~ try www.alwayshobbies.com — or go to our website for
turning spheres by David Springett.
‘The main shaft
For the shaft, take a blank 55mm square x 180mm long and
‘mount between centres. Create a cylinder and cut a spigot. Hold
the spigot in a chuck and bring up the tailstock for support. True
up the end with a spindle gouge and, using the parting tool,
create a parting cut 42mm diameter. This is the outer diameter
of the cup. Radius off the outer edge, remove the tailstock and
cut a gentle hollow in the end, about 6mm deep
in the centre. Once cut, sand it and then use the
spindle gouge to create the shaft. About 60mm
back from the end mark it, and this is the point
at which the taper starts, which will ultimately
terminate at a 10mm round-ended tip. To
create the taper it is easier to reverse the
piece so that the cup end is now held in the
chuck. Place tissue paper in the jaws and
then tighten. Then, keep the tailstack in
place while you create the taper. Once done,
sand toa fine finish. Remove the tailstock
and just round off the end.
The crosspiece
Mark the centre of the lenath of the crosspiece and on
this point, drill a 9.5mm hole through the full 55mm
depth. Next use the reamer to create a taper that is
14.5mm wide at one end and 9.5mm the other. Once
done, mount the piece between centres and turn the
piece to 42mm diameter. Mount one end of this in a
chuck then create a hollow, as on the main shaft,
then remove the piece
and repeat for the other
fend. Sand and then slide
the piece over the main
shaft. It should slide down and
leave the spike projecting about
75mm oF 50.
Thread the cord though the 2mm
hole in the tall and tie a knot in it.
The other end is threaded though
the hole in the cross piece and then
trapped in place when the cross
piece is fitted to the main shaft.
Job done and happy playing!
FLIPPER
This toy was very much an experiment, based on a small plastic
Christmas cracker toy. There isn’t room here to explain how to
‘tur the catching bowl, but see mini projects in issue 40 for
bow! turning. I started by planing down a 20mm wide strip of
ash to around 3mm thickness, left well overlength ~ I would
suggest 400mm. To make the firing cup for the ball, I drilled a
‘12mm hole down the centre of 25mm dowel and cut off a 15mm
slice, I then glued this about 25mm from the end of the lath.
When dry, I sanded the edge of the dowel flat. For the body,
which will house the ‘spring, I cut a'50 x 70 x 60mm block of
beech, cutting an angle of a few degrees on the
top face ~ this was to give the spring the angle
to flip the ball forward. I cut a 7mm slice off
the angled side, and cut a rebate in the larger
section of body to the
wwwwoodworkersinstitute.com
| You will need
| fBeech and ash ofteut
1 Shall dewel otfout
5 GP mactice ball
$ Twmea vou!
* Aovasive +9320
full depth and width of the
‘spring’, so it could be secured
in place by gluing the ‘tid’ in
place. Now the trial and error
bit. Clamp the lath into the
body, with the lid in place and all onto the bench, leaving about
200mm protruding. Put the ball in the cup and twang the end
of the spring so the ball loops high and forward. You then want
to adjust the amount the spring sticks out so that the ball will,
land in your cup within the length of your plinth. Measure all
your positions, then glue the spring in the body with the lid,
and glue and screw the body with spring, and the bowl, onto
the base ~ a piece about 350 x 75 x 20mm. I used a roundover
cutter to break the edges of the body and sanded and oiled it.
With any luck, you wil now have a fun, if infuriating, toy.
ISSUE 42 WOODWORKING PLANS & PROJECTS 55.
S1D3/Od INIW SAOL,SAOD @ Darou