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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Section Page No.
INTRODUCTION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 . . . . . . . . . . 4
INSPECTION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.0 . . . . . . . . . . 6
The Basics: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.1 . . . . . . . . . . 6
Look for missing parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.2 . . . . . . . . . . 6
Check for Seal Leaks. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.3 . . . . . . . . . . 6
Functional Inspection. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.4 . . . . . . . . . . 6
TROUBLESHOOTING:. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.0 . . . . . . . . . 16
Troubleshooting External Leaks. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.1 . . . . . . . . . 16
Leak around the Quick Disconnect:. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.1.1. . . . . . . . . 16
Leak around the Inlet Flange: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.1.2. . . . . . . . . 16
Leak at Vent Hole on the Back of the Body:. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.1.3. . . . . . . . . 16
Troubleshooting Mechanical Problems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.2 . . . . . . . . . 16
Coupler will not shut off – leaks pressure downstream:. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.2.1. . . . . . . . . 16
Fuel found in the Air Deadman port of the Air/Fuel Block:. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.2.2. . . . . . . . . 16
Will not regulate pressure accurately/repeatedly: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.2.3. . . . . . . . . 16
1.0 INTRODUCTION
This Maintenance Manual covers the INSTALLATION, OPERATION, INSPECTION and MAINTENANCE of the Cla-Val Model
353GF Pressure Control Coupler, referred from here on as just Coupler. All major subassemblies of the Coupler are covered
by this document. There may be other optional items that are covered in other specific documents. There is a TROUBLE-
SHOOTING section for each major subassembly that contains helpful hints for diagnosing problems.
4.0 INSPECTION
4.1 THE BASICS:
• A quick visual inspection of the Coupler can be a very effective way of preventing dangerous fuel spillage. Each Coupler
should be inspected at least every 3 months (every quarter) to verify that the Coupler is in operating order.
• When inspecting the Coupler, first look for physical damage that might occur from impact against other items or surfaces.
Significant scrapes or gouges on exterior parts can result in exterior leakage and a personal hazard.
• Any part exhibiting a visual crack of any kind must be replaced immediately.
4.2 LOOK FOR MISSING PARTS:
• Look at the inlet end of the Coupler that connects to the API Adapter. Verify that the Nose Seal is complete and in place. Any
cuts or nicks on the rubber Nose Seal can cause an external fuel leak.
• Verify that all six Hex Nuts and Washers are tight holding the Coupler and the Control Head firmly together.
• Verify that all 12 of the Balls are present in the corresponding holes in the end of the Body and are free to move in and out.
• Verify that the Guard (Bumper) is in place on the Sleeve, that it is firmly located and that it is not badly damaged or cut.
• Look at the outlet end of the Coupler with the Quick Disconnect removed. Verify that there are two Race Rings and that they
have not been significantly worn by the movement of the balls within the Quick Disconnect.
• Verify that the Screw and Washer are in place on the side of the Air/Fuel Block covering the closing time adjustment Set
Screw within the Air/Fuel Block.
• When the Quick Disconnect is attached to the Coupler, the Lobed Snap Ring must be in the second exposed groove (away
from the threaded end) on the Swivel Adapter so as to hold the Sleeve in place. The Snap Ring Lock and the two Socket
Head Cap Screws must be in place to secure the Lobed Snap Ring .
• If the Lobed Snap Ring is missing or is not in the second exposed groove, take the Coupler out of service immediately.
• If the Snap Ring Lock or either of the Socket Head Cap Screws is missing, take the Coupler out of service immediately.
• Verify that the Horseshoe Handles are not badly bent and that the handle sockets of the Body are not cracked. Verify that all
four Hex Head Screws and Washers are tight holding the two Horseshoe Handles firmly in the sockets of the Body.
4.3 CHECK FOR SEAL LEAKS:
• Any fuel leaks from metal surfaces or from seals must be dealt with immediately to insure safe operation.
• Check for leaks from around the Nose Seal. Replace the Nose Seal and the related O-ring if fuel leaks from the Nose Seal
when closed.
• Check for leaks from the Nose Seal when connected to an API Adapter. A cut Nose Seal can cause a leak that can fill up a
hydrant pit with fuel while refueling an aircraft!
• Check for leakage from around the Operating Handle and Crank Shaft and replace the Crank Shaft seals if a leak is detected.
• Check the vent hole on the back of the Body for leakage of air or fuel. Fuel leaks will be easily seen as there will be a wetting
of fuel around and/or below the vent hole. NOTE: A very small amount of fuel in or around the vent hole will be very likely
and acceptable. Air leaks must be detected by covering the vent hole with your finger (with Deadman pressure applied to the
Control Head) to see if pressure builds up within the vent hole. A bubble solution (like window cleaner) can also be used to
check for air escaping from the vent hole. NOTE: A very small amount of air leaking from the vent hole will be very likely and
acceptable. Seal replacement is only required if a vent hole leak is excessive.
• Check for leaks from the Quick Disconnect joint. The Quick Disconnect O-ring may need to be replaced if leakage from the
Quick Disconnect is excessive.
• Also check for leaks around the Quick Disconnect pipe threads.
4.4 FUNCTIONAL INSPECTION:
• Verify that the Lock Pin at the inlet end of the Coupler can easily be depressed and is free to return to the extended position.
• The Sleeve should be free from dirt and grit, and free to travel vertically up and down the Body. Only when the Lock Pin is
depressed, should the Sleeve be able to extend down to connect to the API Adapter.
• The Operating Handle should snap to the Closed position and allow the Sleeve to lock in the upper, disconnected position.
• The Operating Handle should snap to the Open position when attached to an API Adapter. Rotation to the fully open position
should be free and smooth.
• When removing the Quick Disconnect from the outlet of the Coupler, the QD Sleeve must slide freely and show no signs of
binding or galling.
• Ensure the stainless Latching Screw (1-35) is secure and correctly torqued to 39 ft. lbs.
u CLA-VAL Company www.cla-val.com info@cla-val.com EN-353GF (R-09/2018)
6 of 22 © Copyright CLA-VAL 2018 - Specifications subject to change without notice.
CLA-VAL 353GF
Coupler Lower Half & Control Head
Maintenance Manual
• Use the Cla-Val 353GF-3 Coupler Wear Gauge to check the Couplers safety interlock mechanism. Install the Wear Gauge
into the inlet side of the Coupler, with the 3 pins facing inwardly. Extend the Coupler sleeve downwards into the locked position,
and open the poppet. All 3 pins should be visibly protruding above the surface of the gauge. Should any of the pins sit below
the surface of the gauge, this indictaes excessive wear, and the Coupler should be removed from service until overhauled.
• Insert a pin or nail or other suitable shaft through the hole provided near the bottom of the Lock Pin (1-33) as a counter-rota-
tion device.
• Remove the Screw (1-20) from the top of the Lock Pin (1-33).
• Remove the Lock Pin (1-33) and the Spring (1-32).
Re-assembly:
• NOTE: It is recommended that you use bearing or o-ring grease to aid in holding all balls in place during re-assembly. Some
such method is recommended to assure that the balls are not misplaced or dislodged during assembly. The Coupler needs
no lubrication during normal use. The grease is used only as an assembly aid.
• Coat each of Locking Ball (1-26) and Balls (1-28) with grease.
• Place Spring (1-32) onto Lock Pin (1-33) and insert Lock Pin (1-33) up into hole in Body (1-27).
• Insert a pin or nail or other suitable shaft through the hole provided near the bottom of the Lock Pin (1-33) as a counter-rota-
tion device.
• Install Screw (1-20) into Lock Pin (1-33). Torque the Screw (1-20) to 24 in. lbs.
• Place greased Locking Ball (1-26) into hole on the outside of Body (1-27) adjacent to the Lock Pin (1-33).
• Place greased Balls (1-28) into the holes around the bottom of Body (1-27).
• Place the Sleeve (1-18) up-side-down on the work surface. Confirm that the Soc. Head Cap Screw (1-36) is installed in the
threaded hole on the inner face of the Sleeve (1-18).
• Inspect the Fracture Ring (1-34) for cracks or broken ligaments. Find the clocking slot on just one side (top of bottom) of the
ring. Install the Fracture Ring (1-34) down into the Sleeve (1-18) with this clocking slot mating with the clocking Soc. Head
Cap Screw (1-36).
• Hold the up-side-down Body (1-27) above the Sleeve (1-18). Align the Sleeve (1-18) so that the Latching Screw (1-35) is
above the Locking Ball (1-26). Depress the Lock Pin (1-33) and slide the Body (1-27) down into the Sleeve (1-18). Then, lift
the Sleeve (1-18) until the two latch together. When the Sleeve (1-18) is installed onto the Body (1-27), the Locking Ball
(1-26) will engage within the Latching Screw (1-35) to hold the Sleeve (1-18) in the “up” position.
• Align the two slots in the Sleeve (1-18) with the 4 threaded holes in the side of the Body (1-27). Apply thread locking
compound to the 4 Soc. Head Cap Screws (1-37). Install the 4 Soc. Head Cap Screws (1-37) into the two locations on the
Body (1-27). These will be installed through the two slots in the Sleeve (1-18).
• Test the mechanical operation of these components by placing the Coupler onto a Hydrant Adapter. The Sleeve (1-18)
should be free to fall resulting in a positive connection to the Adapter. Raise the Sleeve (1-18). The Sleeve (1-18) should
lock in the raised position by the action of the Locking Ball (1-26) inside the Latching Screw (1-35). If this does not happen,
then the Locking Ball (1-26) is likely that the Locking Ball (1-26) fell from the Body (1-27) during assembly.
• Install the Retaining Ring (1-29) into the groove within the lower end of the Sleeve (1-18) using the 8 Soc. Head Cap Screws
(1-38). Torque these to 46 in. lbs.
• Warm up the Guard (1-17) (bumper ring) to help with installation onto the Sleeve (1-18). This can either be done in boiling
water or by using a microwave oven for no more than 30 seconds. Us a rubber faced hammer to aid in forcing the Guard
(1-17) onto the Sleeve (1-18).
5.2.5 Replace Crank Shaft, Link, Poppet Stem and related hardware:
Re-assembly:
• Place Washer (1-25) onto Crank Shaft (1-22).
• Place Crank Shaft (1-22) into the guide hole of the Body (1-27) from within the Body (1-27).
• Insert the Link (1-1) down into the guide hole for the Poppet Stem (1-13) so that the small hole of the Link (1-1) is exposed.
• Position the Poppet Stem (1-13) so that the Link (1-1) is in the slot of the Poppet Stem (1-13) and the holes in each are
aligned (visible from the bottom of the Body (1-27)).
• Insert the Poppet Stem Pin (1-12) into the hole of the Poppet Stem (1-13) and through the Link (1-1).
• Pull up the Link (1-1) until the upper hole of the Link (1-1) is aligned with the hole in the Crank Shaft (1-22). You will have to
rotate the Crank Shaft (1-22) to aid in aligning these two holes.
• NOTE: The stop lug on the inner face of the Crank Shaft (1-22) must be positioned to impact the Link (1-1) under the radius
or hook of the Link (1-1). If you do not have this orientation correct, then lower the Link (1-1) and Poppet Stem (1-13) slightly,
rotate them 180°, and perform the previous step again.
• Insert the Pin (1-23) into the holes of the Link (1-1) and the Crank Shaft (1-22).
• Place the Spacer (1-21) on the other end of the Pin (1-23).
• Insert a new Cotter Pin (1-24) into the holes of the Spacer (1-21) and the Pin (1-23) and spread the legs of the Cotter Pin
(1-24) so that it is properly retained.
• Rotate the Crank Shaft (1-22) fully in each direction to check for clear operation.
5.2.6 Replace Crank Shaft Seals:
Re-assembly:
• Lubricate the new O-Ring (1-4) and Backup Ring (1-5).
• With the Crank Shaft (1-22) installed in the Body (1-27), place the O-ring (1-4) onto the Crank Shaft (1-22).
• Place the Backup Ring (1-5) onto the Crank Shaft (1-22).
• Push the Bearing (1-6) onto the Crank Shaft (1-22) so as to push the O-ring (1-4) and Backup Ring (1-5) into the recess with-
in the Body (1-27). The flange of the Bearing (1-6) should be up against the Body (1-27).
• Push the Operating Lever (1-7) onto the Crank Shaft (1-22). The Operating Lever (1-7) can go on 4 different ways. Rotate
the Operating Lever (1-7) to the fully “closed” position. When correctly installed, the flat on the Operating Lever (1-7) will be
on the bottom, parallel to the top of the Sleeve (1-18).
• Place the Lock Washer (1-10) and then the Retainer (1-9) onto the Hex Head Bolt (1-11).
• Install the Hex Head Bolt (1-11) (with the Lock Washer (1-10) and the Retainer (1-9)) into the end of the Crank Shaft (1-22).
• Torque the Hex Head Bolt (1-11) to 82 in. lbs.
5.2.7 Replace Nose Seal and related O-rings:
Re-assembly:
• Lubricate the new O-Ring (1-14) and O-Ring (1-39).
• Carefully install O-Ring (1-39) into the groove on the outside of the Nose Seal (1-31).
• Place O-ring (1-14) into the recess of the Poppet (1-15).
• Make certain that the Wave Washer (1-30) is in the recess of the Body (1-27) where the Nose Seal (1-31) goes. Push Nose
Seal (1-31) into the cavity of the Body (1-27) until it stops against the Wave Washer (1-30).
• Carefully place the Poppet (1-15) and the O-ring (1-14) onto the Poppet Stem (1-13) and align the six holes.
• Re-install the six Phillips Head Screws (1-16) to attach the Poppet (1-15) onto the Poppet Stem (1-13). Torque each of Phil-
lips Head Screws (1-16) to 13 in. lbs.
• Rotate the Operating Lever (1-7) of the Coupler to close the Poppet (1-15), thereby compressing the Nose Seal (1-31) into
the Body (1-27).
• Slide/lift the Sleeve (1-18) back to the closed, retracted position. Verify that the Lock Pin (1-33) automatically extends. Also
verify that the Sleeve (1-18) cannot extend without first depressing the Lock Pin (1-33).
6.2.2 Remove Square Cut Shut-Off Seal and Seal Retainer O-Ring:
Removal:
• WARNING: DO NOT LOOSEN HEX JAM NUT (2-13) OR FLEX LOCKNUT (2-12).
• Loosen the four Socket Head Cap Screws (2-25) JUST 2 OR 3 TURNS.
• Blow some compressed shop air into the Deadman port on the Body (2-1) just enough to dislodge the Piston Assembly. The
Deadman port is the one furthest from the outlet of the Coupler. This will ease the extraction of the Piston Assembly from
within the Body (2-1).
• Remove the four Socket Head Cap Screws (2-25) and the four Lock Washers (2-24) from the Seal Retainer (2-23).
• Pull on the fins of the Outer Piston (2-28) to extract the Piston Assembly from the Body (2-1).
• Remove the Square Cut Ring (2-19) and the O-Ring (2-20) from within the Body (2-1) or from the back of the Seal Retainer
(2-23).
• NOTE: The Seal (2-9) may have been pulled from the Seal Spacer (2-11) and might be found on the end of the Inner Piston
(2-16). If so, remove them from the end of the Inner Piston (2-16), apply lubrication to both, and place it into the Seal Spacer
(2-11). The correct orientation is with the spring within the Inner Piston Seal (2-9) visible.
• Place piston assembly in a clean protected area.
6.2.3 Remove Inner and Outer Piston Seals:
Removal:
• Remove the Seal Spacer (2-11) and the O-Ring (2-10), the two Inner Piston Seals (2-9). One Inner Piston Seal (2-9) will be
found within the deep cavity of the Body (2-1).
• Remove the Outer Piston Seal (2-27) from the groove just inside the outlet end of the Body (2-1). Take care to not scratch
the groove.
6.2.4 Remove Shaft Guide Seal:
Removal:
• CAUTION: The following instructions deal with disassembling components under extreme spring load. THIS IS A TWO MAN
JOB. Wear all safety equipment (rubber-faced gloves, eye protection, etc.) and follow instructions accurately. IF YOU DO
NOT FEEL CAPABLE OR COMFORTABLE PERFORMING THIS REPAIR, THEN RETURN THE PRODUCT TO CLA-VAL
FOR SERVICING.
• Using a bench vise, take piston assembly (previously removed in 2.1.2), firmly clamp both Hex Nuts on the Outer-Piston-end
of the Piston Shaft (2-26). Orient the Piston Assembly vertically so that the Inner Piston (2-16) is up and the Outer Piston
(2-28) is down.
• Loosen and remove the Flex Locknut (2-12) from the Inner Piston end of the Piston Assembly.
• Loosen, but DO NOT REMOVE, the HEX JAM NUT (2-13).
• Grip the Inner Piston (2-16) with both hands and push down to feel the spring force exerted by the Piston Spring (2-17).
If necessary, further loosen the Hex Jam Nut (2-13) so that you can get a feel for the amount of force that you must oppose
during disassembly.
• TWO MAN JOB: READ THIS STEP AND UNDERSTAND IT BEFORE ATTEMPTING. With two hands, push down on the
Inner Piston (2-16) to compress the Piston Spring (2-17) and to release the load on the Hex Jam Nut (2-13), and remove the
Hex Jam Nut (2-13), (make note of the Washer (2-14) under the Hex Jam Nut (2-13), but don’t bother removing them yet),
then carefully allow the Inner Piston to rise off of the Piston Shaft (2-26). The free length of the Piston Spring (2-17) is about
12.5 inches. NOTE: The Inner Piston (2-16) should rise up off of the Piston Shaft (2-26) without much resistance, but the
O-Ring (2-15) may cause interference. With some twisting and wiggling, the Inner Piston (2-16) will come free.
• Once you have the Inner Piston (2-16) free, remove the Washer (2-14) and O-Ring (2-15) from the top end of the Inner Piston
(2-16).
• Remove Piston Spring (2-17) from Piston Shaft (2-26).
• Remove Seal Retainer (2-23) and Spring Guide (2-18) from Piston Shaft (2-26).
• Remove Shaft Guide Seal (2-21) and O-Ring (2-22) from Seal Retainer (2-23).
Re-assembly:
• Lubricate all seals.
• Install O-Ring (2-22) onto the outside of the Shaft Guide Seal (2-21).
• Apply a liberal amount of lubrication to these two parts and push them through the hole in the center of the Seal Retainer
(2-23) from the hollow, inner side. With care and lubrication, the four legs or tabs of the Shaft Guide Seal (2-21) will pop
through the Seal Retainer (2-23) and expand to help hold it in place.
• Carefully push the Seal Retainer (2-23) down onto the Piston Shaft (2-26), taking care to not damage the Shaft Guide Seal
(2-21) on the leading edge of the Piston Shaft (2-26).
• Slide the Spring Guide (2-18) down onto the Piston Shaft (2-26) flange end first.
• Install the Piston Spring (2-17) down onto the Spring Guide (2-18).
• Place the Inner Piston (2-16) onto and over the Piston Spring (2-17).
• Prepare the Hex Jam Nut (2-13), Washer (2-14) and O-Ring (2-15).
• TWO MAN JOB: READ THIS STEP AND UNDERSTAND IT BEFORE ATTEMPTING. With two hands, press the Inner
Piston (2-16) down onto the Piston Shaft (2-26) fully compressing the Piston Spring (2-17) and exposing the threaded end
of the Piston Shaft (2-26) out of the end of the Inner Piston (2-16). While holding down the Inner Piston (2-16), install the
O-Ring (2-15) and the Washer (2-14) down on the Piston Shaft (2-26) as far as possible. Install the Hex Jam Nut (2-13) onto
the Piston Shaft (2-26). AT THE VERY LEAST, make sure that the Hex Jam Nut (2-13) is fully engaged onto the threaded
end of the Piston Shaft (2-26) before releasing the Inner Piston (2-16).
• Torque the Hex Jam Nut (2-13) to 15 ft. lbs.
• Install the Flex Locknut (2-12) onto the Piston Shaft (2-26) and up against the Hex Jam Nut (2-13).
• Torque the Flex Locknut (2-12) to 21 ft. lbs.
6.2.5 Replace Inner and Outer Piston Seals:
Re-assembly:
• Lubricate all seals.
• Push one of the Inner Piston Seals (2-9) into the deep cavity of the Body (2-1) with the exposed spring side of the seal facing
down into the cavity. Do this by inserting the seal into the bottom of the cavity, past the cast port found in the bottom of this
cavity, so that the seal is not damaged by the rough edge of this feature. Push the rest of the seal into place against the
shoulder of the Body (2-1).
• Insert the other Small Piston Seal (2-9) into the mating cavity of the Seal Spacer (2-11) with the spring within the Small Piston
Seal (2-9) visible.
• Insert the O-Ring (2-10) into the deep cavity of the Body (2-1). The O-Ring (2-10) will fit snugly into one of these diameters.
• Carefully insert the Seal Spacer (2-11) (with the assembled seal installed within it) into the cavity of the Body (2-1) and onto
the O-Ring (2-10).
• Carefully install the Outer Piston Seal (2-27) into the groove just inside the outlet end of the Body (2-1) with the spring within
the Large Piston Seal (2-27) facing to the interior of the Body (2-1). Push the Outer Piston Seal (2-27) down into the groove
as much as possible.
• NOTE: To better push the Outer Piston Seal (2-27) down into the O-Ring groove, use a spare Outer Piston (2-28) if available.
Press the spare Outer Piston (2-28) into the installed Outer Piston Seal (2-27) with the chamfered end first, and leave it there
for a few minutes. This will fully compress the seals into the groove and make re-assembly of the Piston Assembly into the
Body (2-1) easier.
6.2.6 Replace Square Cut Shut-Off Seal and Seal Retainer O-Ring:
Re-assembly:
• Apply lubrication to both the new Square Cut Ring (2-19) and the new O-Ring (2-20).
• Place O-Ring (2-20) onto the back of the Seal Retainer (2-23) with sufficient lubrication to hold it in place.
• Install the Square Cut Ring (2-19) into the Body (2-1).
• Liberally lubricate the Inner Piston (2-16), the Outer Piston (2-28), the two Inner Piston Seals (2-9) and the
Outer Piston Seal (2-27).
• NOTE: The following steps can be difficult to successfully achieve. There is a risk that the Outer Piston Seal (2-27) can be
cut or damaged by the insertion of the Outer Piston (2-28).
• Make certain that the Outer Piston Seal (2-27) is as flush and compressed as possible so that the Outer Piston (2-28) can
easily pass into and through the Outer Piston Seal (2-27).
• Firstly, push the two halves of the 208996-01E Coupler Seal Installation Tool together. Be sure that the two chamfered edges
of the tool mate each other. Gently push the Coupler Seal Installation Tool into the outlet side of the pressure control elbow
until it rests on top of the outer piston seal. NOTE: The chamfered edge of the Coupler Seal Installation Tool should be facing
away from the technician, and facing towards the center of the Coupler when installed.
• Slowly, gently and firmly insert the Piston Assembly into the Body (2-1) and into and through the Seals. NOTE: Beware that
the Outer Piston (2-28) can damage the Outer Piston Seal (2-27) when it is pushed into and through the Outer Piston Seal
(2-27). Take great care in forcing the Outer Piston (2-28) into and through the Outer Piston Seal (2-27). Use a combination
of pushing and rotating the Outer Piston (2-28) to get it safely through the Outer Piston Seal (2-27).
• Once through, visually inspect for any sliced piece of Outer Piston Seal (2-27). If found, remove the Piston Assembly, remove
the damaged Outer Piston Seal (2-27) and replace it with a new one. Repeat the above steps to install the Piston Assembly
into the Body (2-1).
• Before inserting the four Socket Head Cap Screws (2-25) into the Seal Retainer (2-23), rotate the Seal Retainer (2-23) so that
the vent hole is at the bottom, 6 o’clock position so that it can communicate with the mating hole in the Body (2-1).
(Most Seal Retainers (2-23) have 4 vent holes, so this step is not necessary.)
• Insert the four Socket Head Cap Screws (2-25) and the Lock Washers (2-24) through the holes of the Seal Retainer (2-23)
and into the threaded holes in the Body (2-1).
• Using a rotational pattern, hand tighten the Socket Head Cap Screws (2-25) to evenly draw the Seal Retainer (2-23) into and
up against the Body (2-1).
Torque the Socket Head Cap Screws (2-25) to 19 in. lbs.
6.2.7 Replace Relief Valve:
• Screw the Relief Valve (previously serviced in 6.2.1) subassembly into the port within the Body (2-1).
• Torque the Relief Valve Housing (2-5) to 18 ft. lbs.
8.0 TROUBLESHOOTING:
8.1 TROUBLESHOOTING EXTERNAL LEAKS (Why is there a leak at this location?):
8.1.1 Leak around the Quick Disconnect:
• One O-Ring seals this QD joint. It can be found inside the female half of the QD. If the QD leaks under any pressure, inspect
and replace this seal. Refer to the Maintenance Manual for that subassembly for detailed information and part numbers.
8.1.2 Leak around the Inlet Flange:
• The inlet flange to the Control Head is bolted to the API Coupler Lower Half. One static O-Ring seals this joint. If the flanged
joint leaks under any pressure, inspect and replace this seal (1-19) and torque the nuts holding the control head and lower
half together to 171 in. lbs. It is also recommended that this same seal (1-19) is replaced at every overhaul.
8.1.3 Leak at Vent Hole on the Back of the Body:
• Two things can leak out of the small vent port on the back of the Body. One is fuel and the other is air. This vent port is
sealed by Teflon seals that will leak to a very small extent even when new. So, a small amount of wetting in and around the
hole, or a small amount of air escaping out of the hole, is normal. If the leakage grows greater, then both of the Teflon seals
within the Body that seal against the Inner Piston must be changed. Refer to the instructions in section 6.2.5 to change these
seals.
8.2 TROUBLESHOOTING MECHANICAL PROBLEMS (Why doesn’t this part work right?):
8.2.1 Coupler will not shut off – leaks pressure downstream:
• Three seals prevent upstream pressure from leaking downstream when the Deadman pressure is at zero and the Coupler
lower half Operating Lever is set in the Open position. They are the Square Cut Ring, the Outer Piston Cap Seal, and the
Relief Valve Stem O-Ring. Refer to the instructions in sections 6.2.1 - 6.2.6 to change these seals.
8.2.2 Fuel found in the Air Deadman port of the Air/Fuel Block:
• Fuel leaking into the Deadman air system is a very serious matter. If not corrected, fuel can, in some cases, find its way into
the air break system on a refueling vehicle. The source of the fuel leak into the compressed air system must be identified and
corrected as soon as possible. One seal in the Control Head, the O-Ring located on the flat end of the Inner Piston, is the
only direct seal between the Fuel and Air chambers of the Control Head. Refer to the instructions in section 6.2.4 to change
this seal.
8.2.3 Will not regulate pressure accurately/repeatedly:
• The Control Head is an “air/fuel-set” pressure regulator. That means that the regulation set point is adjustable by adjusting
the Deadman pressure supplied to the Coupler. If pressure regulation is not repeatable, it may be because of a failure of the
Shaft Guide Seal. To check for this, remove the outlet quick disconnect fitting to expose the outlet end of the Coupler. Follow
all safety precautions and apply pressurized fuel to the “FUEL” port on the Air/Fuel Block. Start with very low pressure at first.
Visually check for fuel leaking from around the Piston Shaft where it sticks through the Seal Retainer. Gradually increase
pressure to about 50 or 60 psig. If a leak is detected through the Shaft Guide Seal, then refer to the instructions in section
6.2.4 to change this seal.
35 18
34
19
36
20
2 1
3
21 24 25 9 10
23
5
4 6
11
22
26 8
37
28 27 32 7
33
29
38
17
30
31
39
13 12
15 14
16 209528-EXP-C
12
30
13
30
29
26
28
22 23 27
25
21
24
19 20
16 17 18
12 15
13
14
9
11
10
8 9
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
201225-EXP-P
9.5
Spare Kits List
Special Tools
Bubble Number Part Number Description Torque in. lbs. Torque ft. lbs. Torque Nm
1-11 21000705D Hex Bolt 82 6.83 9.26
1-16 1121701F Screw 13 1.08 1.46
1-20 20027501D Lock Pin 24 2 2.71
1-38 6795419J Cap Screw 46 3.83 5.19
2-5 21208801F Relief Valve Housing 360 30 40.67
2-12 60761E Lock Nut, Flex 192 16 21.69
2-13 67802-06G Nut, Hex Jam 192 16 21.69
2-25 67953-13D Cap Screw 22 1.83 2.48