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IMITATION DAIRY PRODUCTS

D Haisman, Massey University, Palmerston North, New Zealand


ª 2011 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Definition and Product Types manufacture are often tailored to meet the functionality
of the product. Liquid products, with a short shelf life, can
Imitation dairy products range from complete dairy sub- be based on a wide range of oils and fats, as long as they
stitutes, with no dairy ingredients, such as margarine and are bland in flavor. Powdered products require fats that
soy milk, to products that have a high percentage of dairy are stable to oxidation, do not melt during storage, but at
ingredients, but also contain some nondairy constituent, the same time, are not waxy in the mouth. Ideally, they
for example, vegetable fat. Food regulations in some will have the same melting profile as milk fat. Hardened
countries differentiate between substitutes, which are coconut, palm, or soy oils meet these criteria and are
allowed, and imitations, which are regulated, to protect widely used.
the dairy industry from what is seen as unfair competition. Milk proteins are often used either in the form of skim
However, today, imitation dairy products are freely avail- milk powder or as sodium caseinate. The most widely
able in the many parts of the world. They appeal to used alternatives are soy protein concentrates or isolates.
consumers because they are generally cheaper, and may Most imitation milk products employ additional emul-
be perceived to have health or dietary benefits. They also sifiers and stabilizers to improve quality, whether it be to
employ a much wider range of functional ingredients, and prevent creaming or coalescence, or facilitate whipping,
for this reason may have a longer shelf life, more conven- or improve whiteness.
ient packaging, and be easier to use. These advantages are
diminishing as advances in dairy technology allow greater
sophistication in the design of real dairy products.
Nutritionally, imitation dairy products may be disadvan- Imitation Milks
taged by the lower digestibility of hydrogenated
vegetable fats, compared with milk fat, the lower biolog- Early imitation milks were essentially recombined milks
ical value of vegetable proteins, compared to milk in which the milk fat was replaced by refined, bleached,
proteins, and a lower bioavailability of calcium. and deodorized vegetable fat. These products are known
The most important imitation dairy products are imi- as filled milks, and typically comprise pasteurized skim
tation milks, condensed milks, and milk powders. These milk, 3–4% vegetable fat, and additives such as mono-
range from filled products, which are based on skim milk, and diglyceride emulsifiers, phosphate buffers, carra-
with the butterfat wholly or partially replaced by vegetable geenan, and vitamins A, D, and E. As already
fat, to totally synthetic milks using nonmilk proteins, fats, mentioned, hydrogenated coconut, palm, or soybean
and carbohydrates. Other products that will be covered in oils, with melting points around 35  C, and a pleasant
this article are coffee creams, coffee whiteners, imitation mouthfeel, neither greasy nor waxy, are well suited for
whipped creams, whipped toppings, and fermented this purpose. The milk is heated to between 70 and 90  C,
products. Spreads, cheeses, and ice creams are discussed mixed with the melted fat, homogenized in a two-stage
elsewhere in the encyclopedia (Butter and Other Milk homogenizer at 15 and 4 MPa, and then cooled and
Fat Products: Fat Replacers; Milk Fat-Based Spreads. packed. The milk may be either pasteurized, to extend
Cheese: Cheese Analogues. Ice Cream and Desserts: the shelf life by a few weeks, or sterilized for a much
Dairy Desserts). longer shelf life. In the latter case, the milk must be very
efficiently homogenized (e.g., at 20 MPa) to avoid cream-
ing, and the possible formation of a cream plug, during
storage, and then either ultra-high temperature (UHT)
Ingredients treated (e.g., 15 s at 142  C) and aseptically packed/bot-
tled, or in-bottle sterilized for, say, 12 min at 121  C.
Initially, the production of imitation dairy products was Imitation milks are common in many Asian countries
driven by the price advantage gained by using vegetable where cow’s milk is not readily available, and recombined
oils and fats instead of milk fat. These days, the quality of skim milk powder is used instead of fresh milk. The skim
the product is equally important and the fats used in its milk powder (9% total solids) is rehydrated in good quality

913
914 Imitation Dairy Products

water for 20 min at 40–50  C and then heated, mixed with Imitation Milk Powders
fat, homogenized, cooled, and packed as before.
Skim milk powder may be replaced by other proteins Imitation milk powders are a natural development from
that are cheaper, and sometimes more efficient, emulsifiers, imitation milk, and require some of the same technology.
to make the oil/water emulsion. Sodium caseinate, whey They are reconstituted to milk, or used as cooking ingre-
protein concentrates, and soy protein isolates are com- dients. The powders are generally made by spray drying a
monly used. Formulations simulate the proximate concentrated (about 50% solids) emulsion containing
composition of cow’s milk, containing 3–3.5% fat, 2–3.5% from 10 to 15% fat and 3.5 to 15% protein, the balance
protein, and 5–6% carbohydrate. Maltodextrins or glucose being carbohydrate. The fat must be of the highest qual-
syrup solids may be used as substitutes for lactose. These ity, with a low free fatty acid content (<0.4% as oleic
recombined or imitation milks tend to be nutritionally acid), and generally has antioxidants such as butylhydrox-
deficient in calcium, but can become unstable when ytoluene (BHT) added. Hydrogenated fats with a short
calcium is added to the same level as in cow’s milk. Most plastic range, which melt at about 40  C, are preferred, as
of the calcium and much of the protein precipitate from the they are pleasant to taste, but stable to coalescence during
milk. This defect has been overcome by the addition shipping and storage. The protein may be milk protein,
of citrate and mono/diglycerides to the formulation. from skim milk powder, sodium caseinate, or whey pro-
The citrate solubilizes the calcium, and the emulsifiers tein or a soy protein isolate. Skim milk powder is
stabilize the emulsion droplets. A typical formulation con- reconstituted at a concentration of about 40% in water
tains 4% hydrogenated coconut oil, 2% sodium caseinate, at 40–50  C. Other proteins are generally used at much
0.5% mono/diglyceride (hydrophilic–lipophilic balance lower concentrations, 5%, with the balance of the solids
between 3 and 5), 0.3% calcium chloride, 0.35% disodium made up with lactose, glucose syrup solids, high-fructose
phosphate, and 0.55% potassium citrate. corn syrup solids or maltodextrin, and minerals. Other
The nutritional status of imitation milks has been additives to the mix can include emulsifiers, such as
criticized. They tend to be low in lysine and methionine, mono/diglycerides or lecithin, to improve dispersion of
as well as calcium and magnesium, and the sodium content the spray-dried product, phosphate salts to aid solubility,
is generally quite high. However, if soy protein is used, the vitamins, particularly A, D, and E, and sometimes cream
iron content may be significantly better than in cow’s milk. flavors and colors.
There is also concern about the content of highly saturated The reconstituted skim milk, or protein/carbohydrate
hydrogenated fats in these products, which may be athero- dispersion, is heated to 65–70  C. The fat, plus any lipid
genic, and many imitation milks now advertise a minimum emulsifiers, heated to the same temperature, is stirred in.
content of polyunsaturated fats. In some countries (e.g., the This process can be batchwise or continuous. The coarse
Philippines), this is mandatory. emulsion is then homogenized using a two-stage homog-
enizer (at 20 and 2 MPa) and fed to the spray dryer.
To maximize efficiency, the solids concentration of the
emulsion is made as high as possible without it becoming
Soy, Nut, and Grain Milks too viscous to atomize effectively. A cocurrent flow spray
dryer with a conical chamber base is most suitable, and it
Milks based on extracts of soybeans, nuts such as is generally advantageous to have a two-stage fluidized
almonds and cashews, or grains such as oats, barley, bed dryer to finish the drying and agglomerate the
rice, corn, or wheat have become increasingly available particles.
in recent years, and are popular with vegetarians and
people allergic to milk or its ingredients. Soy milk is by
far the most important of these substitute milks, and is
made by triturating soybeans with water, filtering off the Infant Formulae
aqueous extract, and heat processing the aqueous extract
to inactivate enzymes, particularly trypsin inhibitors, Infant formulae are a special case of imitation milks and
and to pasteurize the product. Much the same process milk powders, and generally have a stricter nutritional
is used for grain and nut milks. A more sophisticated specification, particularly with regard to the fat composi-
process for oat milks has been developed in Scandinavia, tion. It has been recommended that hydrogenated fats not
which uses amylases to hydrolyze the starch component be used, and that the fats should contain a high proportion
of the grain. The proximate composition of soy milk is of polyunsaturated fatty acids, including linoleic and
very similar to bovine milk, but it is low in calcium linolenic acids in the proportion of 6.7:1. The proteins
unless it is fortified. Other plant-based milks also tend used for emulsification may also have a nutritional focus
to be deficient in protein. and include hydrolyzed casein, soy, and whey proteins.
Imitation Dairy Products 915

Imitation Evaporated and Sweetened The protein, carbohydrate, and salts are dissolved in
Condensed Milk water at 40–50  C and then heated to 70  C, and later the
melted fat and emulsifiers are mixed in. The coarse emul-
Much of the world production of evaporated and con- sion is then homogenized in a two-stage homogenizer at 11
densed milk is made by a recombining process, in which and 3 MPa, packed, and sterilized at, for example, 115  C
skim milk powder, milk fat, and sugar are combined in the for 15 min. Alternatively, the product may be UHT treated
correct proportions. This is particularly the case in south- for 10 s at 140  C and aseptically packed. In this case, it may
east Asian countries where fresh cow’s milk is often in be necessary to homogenize the product aseptically after
limited supply. In imitation or filled evaporated milk, the UHT process to redisperse the fat.
vegetable fats are used. A typical formulation is 8% fat
and 20% nonfat milk solids. The mix is heated to 60  C Coffee Whiteners
and homogenized in two stages at 14 and 3.4 MPa. After
homogenization, mono/disodium phosphate is added to As generally understood, coffee whiteners are spray-dried
prevent the coagulation of milk and the mix is then coffee creamers. Their manufacture follows the pattern of
sterilized. Sweetened condensed milk is made by a similar other imitation milk powder products, but special features
process, with the addition of about 45% sucrose to the of their design are fats that have a low iodine value and
mix. The high sugar content obviates the need for steri- resist oxidation, have a short plastic range, so that they melt
lization. The nonfat milk solids and sucrose are dissolved completely in the beverage, and are neither greasy nor
in water at 40–50  C, heated to 70  C, and homogenized waxy, yet have sufficiently high melting points to be stable
at 4 MPa. The thick emulsion is then seeded with solid during shipping and storage. Once added to coffee, the
lactose to initiate the crystallization of the supersaturated creamer needs to have good light reflectance and emulsion
lactose in a finely divided form, cooled to 18  C, and stability under hot acid conditions. Thus, the emulsions are
packed in sterile containers under rigorously hygienic homogenized, before spray drying, at high pressures
conditions. (20 MPa) in order to reduce the fat globule size to less
As with the milks and powders, the skim milk powder than 1 mm in diameter. This ensures maximum light reflec-
can be replaced with other proteins. A completely artifi- tance when the powder is reconstituted in coffee. Sodium
cial condensed milk could comprise 8% vegetable fat, caseinate is an excellent emulsifier for these products, but
12% soy protein, 5% lactose, 45% sucrose, and 30% generally requires the addition of phosphate and citrate to
water. The soy protein may be partially hydrolyzed to buffer the system to counteract ‘feathering’. Lipid emulsi-
improve its solubility in this system. fiers, such as monoglycerides, lactyl or diacetyl tartaric
esters of monoglycerides, or polysorbates, are also thought
to improve the functionality.
Following these principles, a typical coffee whitener
Imitation Coffee Creams contains 35% hydrogenated palm oil (m.p. 36  C), 4%
sodium caseinate, 2% emulsifiers, 1.5% dipotassium phos-
Condensed milk is often used as a coffee cream, but phate, 0.5% potassium citrate, and 57% glucose syrup solids.
purpose-made coffee creams are not sweetened and con-
tain more fat (10–20%). They are frequently sterilized
and retailed in portion packs. Like other imitation prod- Imitation Whipped Creams
ucts, sodium caseinate or soy protein isolate (2%) is used
to emulsify the fat (which is, primarily, hydrogenated Whipped creams are oil/water emulsions that are stable
vegetable oil), and corn syrup solids (10%) are added to to storage, but easily destabilized by whipping to incor-
give body to the product. These artificial creams have less porate air and form a stable foam. For ease of whipping,
tendency to produce a scum of denatured protein on the the fats should have a very high solids content at lower
surface of the hot coffee (generally called feathering), than room temperature, but for good mouthfeel they
which is a problem with real cream, because it contains should melt completely at body temperature. In these
much more milk protein, the cause of its instability. The respects, hardened vegetable fats can be superior to milk
temperature of hot coffee is about 85  C and the pH is fat, and make a more stable foam. Whipped creams can be
generally in the range of 4.7–5.3. Under these conditions, pasteurized or UHT sterilized. Sometimes, they are fro-
casein may partially coagulate, particularly in the pres- zen prewhipped. Powdered whipped toppings, for
ence of calcium and magnesium ions in hard water. reconstitution with water or skim milk, occupy a large
Phosphates (0.3%), to buffer the product and counteract market segment. Because imitation whipping products
the acidity of the coffee, and polysorbate emulsifiers (up generally form a more stable whipped foam than real
to 0.4%), to stabilize the emulsion, may be added to cream, the powders are widely used in the cake and
improve this aspect of the functionality. confectionery industry.
916 Imitation Dairy Products

The emulsions are generally made from skim milk powder. It is acidified to about pH 4.5 with citric or lactic
powder or sodium caseinate, or both, and fats that have acid, and can be thickened with gelatin, guar gum, or
a high solids content at the whipping temperature carrageenan. Yogurts can be made from any of the imi-
(generally 5  C), but still melt around body temperature. tation milks, including the vegetable milk substitutes, by
Like other imitation dairy products, lauric fats, such as the addition of the appropriate bacterial culture and
hydrogenated coconut or palm kernel oil, are often used. proper fermentation. They can also be made by direct
The choice of an appropriate destabilizing emulsifier is acidification. When the protein content is low, the texture
crucial to the functionality of imitation whipped creams. of the yogurt can be improved by the addition of thick-
The best have been found to be -tending emulsifiers, eners such as pregelatinized starch or gelatin.
which crystallize in the -form at the oil/water interface,
below their melting point. This promotes fat agglomer-
ation during whipping. Monoglyceride acetates and See also: Butter and Other Milk Fat Products: Fat
lactates, and propylene glycol palmitate or stearate are Replacers; Milk Fat-Based Spreads. Cheese: Cheese
all -tending emulsifiers. Most whipped creams also con- Analogues. Concentrated Dairy Products: Evaporated
tain a stabilizer such as carrageenan or sodium alginate to Milk; Sweetened Condensed Milk. Dehydrated Dairy
increase the viscosity of the aqueous phase, which retards Products: Infant Formulae; Milk Powder: Types and
any tendency to creaming or syneresis. Hydroxypropyl Manufacture. Fermented Milks: Yogurt: Types and
methylcellulose is sometimes added to promote overrun. Manufacture. Ice Cream and Desserts: Dairy Desserts;
A typical liquid whipped cream might contain 29% Ice Cream and Frozen Desserts: Product Types. Liquid
hardened coconut fat, 6% skim milk powder, 1% lactyl Milk Products: Recombined and Reconstituted
monoglyceride, 10% sucrose, and 0.2% sodium alginate. Products.
Recombination should be carried out above 70  C to avoid
interaction between the calcium of the skim milk powder
and the alginate. Homogenization at 10–15 MPa (at 75  C) Further Reading
should be downstream of the pasteurization (15 s at 85  C)
or UHT (4 s at 144  C) treatments, to reverse any agglom- Clarke RJ and Love G (1974) Convenience foods based on spray-dried
emulsions. Chemistry and Industry 1974(4): 151–155.
eration of the fat. The liquid should then be cooled to Gutcho M (1978) Whipped toppings and coffee whiteners. In: Dairy
10  C as quickly as possible, to minimize the fat crystal Products and Eggs, pp. 263–287. Park Ridge, NJ: Noyes Data
size and the viscosity. Liquid products are then aseptically Corporation.
Hammond E (2006) Filled and artificial dairy products and altered milk
packed. For a frozen product, the cream contains more fats. In: Gunstone FD (ed.) Modifying Lipids for Use in Food.
sucrose, or a mixture of sucrose and glucose syrup, and is Cambridge, UK: CRC Press.
kept chilled for 24 h before whipping and freezing. Kelly PM, Oldfield DJ, and O’Kennedy BT (1999) The thermostability of
spray dried imitation coffee whiteners. International Journal of Dairy
For a powdered whipped topping, the cream contains Technology 52(3): 107–113.
more carbohydrate, usually glucose syrup, and is recom- Kosikowski FV (1982) Imitation, substitute and alternate cheese foods.
bined in the same way, before spray drying. The dry powder In: Cheese and Fermented Milk Foods, pp. 470–482. Brooktondale,
NY: FV Kosikowski and Associates.
consists of about 50–55% fat, 8% sodium caseinate, 8% Lampert LM (1975) Imitation milk products. In: Modern Dairy Products,
-tending emulsifiers, and 29–34% glucose syrup solids. pp. 416–427. New York: Chemical Publishing Co. Inc.
Masters K (1976) Spray Drying, 2nd edn., pp. 570–575. New York:
Wiley.
Sims RJ (1989) Spray dried emulsions. In: Charalambous G and
Sour Cream and Yogurt Doxastakis G (eds.) Food Emulsifiers. Chemistry, Technology,
Functional Properties and Applications, pp. 495–509. Amsterdam,
The Netherlands: Elsevier Science Pub. Co.
Imitation sour cream has much the same fat composition Spreer E (1998) Milk and Dairy Product Technology, pp. 198–201.
as coffee cream, but is often emulsified with skim milk New York: Marcel Dekker, Inc.

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