Manufacturing

seam

is the line where two pieces of fabric are held together by thread. Seam is the combination of
stitches which make line to join two ply of fabric.

seam allowance

A seam allowance is the area between the edge of fabric and the stitching line on two or more
pieces of material being stitched together.

Seam class

Is one of the four types of seams identified by ASTM D6193

Seam width

Is a combination of the width of the seam allowance and the width of a line of stitch relative to the
seam

Seam length

Is the total distance covered by a continuous series of stitches such as a side seam or a shoulder
seam

Seam depth

Is the thickness or the flatness of a seam

Seam heading

Is the distance from the folded edge of the top ply to the first line of stitches. It reduces the strain on
the edge of the fabric and makes the seam stronger

Edgestitch

Is Adding a second row of stitches very close to the seam line on the right side of the fabric.

Topstitch

Is Stitching on the outside of a garment that is parallel to, and 1⁄4-inch from, the seam. Sew through
fabric and seam allowance after pressing to help the seam lay flat.

Understitch

Is Stitching that helps seams lie flat and prevents facings and linings from rolling to the outside of the
garment. Press the seam towards your facing, then stitch the facing to the seam, very close to the
seam line.

Overlock stitch

Is A stitch that finishes the fabric edges and prevents fraying. Overlock stitch can be made with an
overlocker.
Three dimensions of seams

 Length
 Width
 Depth

What affect seam dimensions

 Quality
 Performance
 Cost

Characteristics of seams

 Seam strength
 Elasticity
 Durability
 Security
 Comfort

Seam classes
Super imposed seam:

Seam is achieved by two or more separate pieces of fabric sewing together.

The fabric ends are in same direction.

Lapped seam:

This type of seam is achieved with two or more pieces of fabric over lapping each other.

To sewn ends of the fabric are in opposite direction.

Seam under this class is very strong.

Bound seam:

A bound seam is one piece of fabric surrounding the raw edge of another piece of fabric.

The purpose of bound seam is to finish an edge of garment.

Some time used as decorative purpose.

Flat seam:

Flat seam are constructed by having two pieces of fabric meet precisely of their edges.

Seam thickness is comparatively less.

The edges of the fabric do not overlap and are buttered together

Edge should be cleaned before sewing to avoid fraying.

Flat seam remain flat through care and wear

Are used for seams of sweatshirts, lingerie, long underwear

Edge Finished Seams (EF)

This seam is used to prevent the edges of the fabric from rolling or curling. Primarily used for knit
fabrics and is suitable for straight or curved seams and edges.

Is the stitch that compasses the cut edge or provides a finish for singe ply of fabric with a folded
edge configuration

Ornamental Seam (OS)

Is a stitch that may be used on a single ply for decorative purposes it can be done on the garment

This seam is made using machines with zigzag capability.

It is used on a plain seam on woven or knit fabric.

What is a stitch

A formation of thread for the purpose of making a seam. It consists of a sequence of stitches for
finishing an edge

What is a stitched class

A type of thread formation created by a sewing machine as described by ASTM D6193

What is a stitch consistency

The consistency with which each stitch is formed in a row of stitch

What is a stitch depth

Is The distance between upper and lower surface of the stitch

What is a stitch width

Is the horizontal distance covered in the formation of one stitch or single line of stitching

What is a stitching

Is a series of stitches used to finish the edge or decorative stitch on a single ply of fabric

What is a stitching class

Is a type of stitching as identified by ASTM D6193

ASTM: American society for testing and material standards

Stitch classes
Stitch class – 100 (Single thread chain stitch):

Includes: 101-105 stitch types

 Stitches under this class are produced with single thread by intra-looping technique.
 All the stitches under this class are unsecured and used for temporary purposes.
 Most common uses in blind stitching, hemming, button attaching, button holing, gathering,
temporary positioning of garment components, etc. purposes.
Stitch class – 200 (Hand stitch):

Includes: 201-205 stitch types

 It consist of stitch formations done by hand with a single strand of thread passing in and out
of the fabric
 They are used mainly for coat manufacturing.

Stitch class – 300 (Lock stitch):

Includes: 301-316 stitch types

 Stitches under this class are produced by interlacing technique with two threads.
 The upper thread is called needle thread and the lower one is called bobbin thread.
 Stitches under this class are naturally secured and shows good frictional resistance property.
Its extensibility is about 30%, hence used extensively in Ready Made Woven Garments
products.

Stitch class – 400 (Multi thread chain stitch):

Includes: 400-407 stitch types

 Stitch class – 400 is produced by interlacing and interloping technique.

 The upper thread is called the needle thread and the lower one is called looper thread.
 Stitch 400 requires one or more needle threads that form loops as they pass through the
fabric and interloping with the looper thread on the underside

Stitch class – 500 (Over edge stitch):

Includes: 501-522 stitch types

 Stitches under this class are produced with one or a group of more threads and at least
threads of one group round the edge of the fabric to stop fraying

Stitch class – 600 (Covering chain stitch):

Includes: 601-607 stitch types

Stitches under this class are formed with at least three groups of threads and threads of two groups
are seen in both side of the fabric.

Stitch Formation and its Uses

Stitch Type No. Formation Characteristics Application

Single thread 101 One needle elastic, easy to basting, button

chain stitches thread unravel sewing, label
interloping with setting, back closing
itself , tacking
 103 use a curve invisible on garment hemming of pants
needle to surface and skirts
penetrate the
fabric surface
but stitch does
not show on the
face

Hand stitches 200 Done by hand Flexible use Basting on tailored

with one needle jackets
thread

Lock Stitches 301 interlacing of reversible, strong, top stitching,

needle thread versatile, secure common seam
and bobbin neat flat but not sewing
thread stretchable

304 similar to 301 similar to 301 but attaching elastic/lace

but in a zigzag stretchable to lingerie
pattern decoration

Multithread 401 one needle continuous running, waist bands, inseam

chain stitches thread and one strong, durable, of jeans, side
looper thread, extensible, thick and seam/sleeve seam of
interloped and can be unravelled shirts, rainwear
interlaced
together

402 a looper thread for simulative effect stimulate permanent

travels between crease on the knitted
two needle pants and cording
threads on the backs of gloves
underside of the
fabric and form
a ridge

402 similar to 401 higher elasticity attach waist band

but zigzag than 401 lining to men’s
pattern trousers

406 similar to 402 concealed raw edges cover seaming,

but does not on the underside to sewing belt loops,
ridge up produce a flat and binding and
comfortable seam attaching elastic to
underwear,
 hemming t-shirts
and sportswear

407 similar to 406 high elasticity , attaching elastics to

but with 3 stronger and better briefs, panties and
needle threads coverage effects undergarments
and one looper
thread

Overedge 501 one needle elastic , allow the break open seaming
Stitch thread seam to break open,
interloping itself easily unravelled
warps and
protects the edge

502 formed by 1 Stronger than 501 bag seaming

needle thread
and 1 looper
thread

503 similar to 502 better edge coverage thin surging on

but the needle than 501 and 502, thread, blind
thread interlocks highly elastic hemming on T-shirts
with the looper
threads on the
edge of the plies

504 one needle and 2 higher extensible, popular surging and

looper threads tighter structure, seaming of knit
interlock on the prevent fraying but garments
edge of the plies bulky and easily
runback

514 formed by 2 produce a wider strong seaming of

needle thread bright than 504, knits and woven
and 2 looper stronger and more fabrics
threads elastic

Cover stitch 602 similar to 406 provide excellent attaching knit collar
but it has a top and bottom on knit garments
covering thread cover and flat seam
on the top
surface
 605 similar to 407 better coverage than cut edge boning ,
but it has a 602 elastic attaching
covering thread
on the top
surface

607 similar to 605 flat, stretchy and flat, butted seams on

but it has 4 smooth trims and briefs and panties
needle threads, 1 seams
cover and 1 simultaneously
looper thread

Combination 401.504 combines stitch 5 thread safety side seaming of

types 401 and overedging, surging shirting’s
504 and seaming
simultaneously