A STUDY OF APPAREL EXPORT

MANUFACTURING UNIT

Prof. Rekha Dar

Department of Business
Post-Graduation Diploma Fashion Business

By:

Radhika Mundhra
Kritika Chawla
Priyansha Jain
Deeksha Kohli
(2014-2016)

9th October,2014
NAME OF EXPORT HOUSE:KALEIDOSCOPE
ADDRESS: 18A/4-5, DLF Industrial Area, Phase-1 Faridabad-121003(HR)
Tel.: +91-129-2277227, 2277228
Regd. Office: Room No. 5, 2nd Floor 13/30, Ajmal Khan Road Karol Bagh, New
Delhi-110005
Tel.: +91 11 25740205, 25752515
Mobile: +91 9811122430
NAME OF OWNER:JAYA RAO (DIRECTOR)
DATE OF INCEPTION: May, 2002
UNIQUE SELLING PROMOTION OF ORGANITAION:
This organization is mainly known for its Women’s and Kids Wear
Customers/Brands : in the past
 Le Choteau
 Mixnoveau
 Urbanoutifitters
 Anthropology
 Soft Surroundings
 Appleseeds
 Newlook

Currently working with: clients/ brands

 The Territory Ahead
 Isabella Bird
 Ojai Clothing
 Garnet Hill
 Adersen&Lauth
 Boots- Kid’s and Women’s Wear
 Adams-Kids
 Vie Privee
PAST BRANDS

ANTHROPOLOGIE
Founded in Wayne, Pennsylvania in the autumn of 1992, Anthropologie
remains a destination for women wanting a curated mix of clothing,
accessories, gifts and home décor that reflects their personal style and
fuels their lives' passions, from fashion to art to entertaining. They are
committed, as always, to offering the customers signature products and
unmatched service, both in their more than 185 stores throughout the
United States, Canada and United Kingdom, and on anthropologie.com.

SOFT SURROUNDINGS
Soft surrounding is dedicated for making its customer’s look and feel their best.
It was founded in 1999 and based in ST.Louis,Mo. Busy women of all ages are its
customers – especially those who need to be reminded to put themselves at the
top of their “TO DO LIST”. All fabrics which come in contact with the skin are
rated for softness is what they guarantee.

APPLESEEDS
The Appleseed's company began as "Johnny Appleseed's" a general
merchant of women's, men's, and children's clothes, as well as distinctive
gifts, in 1946 in Beverly, MA. Since then, the company has refined its
product line to focus exclusively on classic women's apparel. Appleseed's
knows the baby boomer woman better than anyone. We understand that
when classic women's apparel retailers stop being classic or become too
dowdy, the prime time woman walks away. We understand the
importance of style, comfort, and quality, and have learned to develop
clothing that is truly fitted for the prime time woman. For 60 years,
Appleseed's has strived to establish a great work environment that
enables employees to succeed in their careers and achieve a healthy work/life balance. We
foster a "family" environment rich with feelings of pride and camaraderie.
NEW LOOK
The New Look story began in 1969 as a single
fashion store in the UK. From there, they’ve grown
to become a leading fast-fashion brand, with over
600 stores throughout the UK/ROI and over 200
across Europe, China, North Africa, the Middle East
and Asia. their transactional website newlook.com
now ships to over 120 countries world-wide
generating 10% of revenues. they’re passionate
about what they do and most importantly, they
have fun doing it. Sharing this positivity with the customers is important to them. By weaving
their brand through everything they do, from their people and store environments, to
marketing and social media, they make sure its customers not only look good but feel great too.

URBAN OUTFITTERS

Urban Outfitters is an American multinational clothing corporation headquartered in

Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. It operates in the United States, Belgium, Canada, Denmark, France,
Germany, Ireland, the Netherlands, Sweden, and the United Kingdom. The company was
founded by Richard Hayne, Scott Belair, and Gabriel Tham-Morrobel in 1970, and was renamed
and incorporated in 1976. Its inventory primarily consists of clothing, footwear, and
CURRENT BRANDS

THE TERRITORY AHEAD

It began its journey in 1988 as a new kind of clothing company –
offering personality through special fabrics; fine details; and easy,
wearable designs. It manufactures and sells clothing for men and
women. It is based in Milford, Connecticut. The company offers shirts,
polos and tees, sweaters and pullovers, pants and shorts etc. The
company’s products are available through direct mail catalogs and
online.

OJAI CLOTHING
Ojai clothing, established in 1986 is the Chumash word for moon
named after a small mountain town in Southern California,
noted for its “pink moment” at sunset. It was founded by
Annelle Beebe and Julio Varela. The heart of ojai clothing blends
artistic design and a broad use of fabrics , with a true American
pioneer work ethic. It embraces an active lifestyle, which for
some means climbing and skiing and for others, means working
and raising kids. It continuously explores new directions by creating clothes that fit every part of
life and lifestyle

GARNET HILLS
It was founded in 1976 and is headquartered in Francon. It’s a
fast-growing multichannel marketer offering a unique, informal
corporate culture and sells women apparel. It offers clothing,
accessories, shoes, swimwear, organic cotton women’s clothing,
beauty products etc. It also provides bedding and home
products; kid’s clothing.
ANDERSEN & LAUTH
The story of Andersen & Lauth started over 100 years ago back in 1908 when Mr. Ludving
Andersen opened his tailor shop in Reykjavik. Now 106 years later Andersen & Lauth is sold
worldwide in many of the words best boutiques. It
creates their collections with passion and put their
heart and soul into every piece of design. A general
rule within it is to have half the employees either
still in design school or recently graduated. That is
their way of keeping the creativity level high while
giving new talents a rare chance to shine.

BOOTS
Boots UK is a member of Alliance Boots, an international
pharmacy-led health and beauty group. Its main purpose is to
help its customers look better and feel better than they ever
thought possible. They have close to 2500 stores.

ISABELLA BIRD
Isabella bird is a sister catalog for The Territory Ahead. It has
increased their customer base over the past two years. The company
has named ALC to manage both files in an effort to leverage the value
of their successful customer acquisition campaigns. It offers great-
looking, non-commodity, craftsmanship-quality clothing and
accessories. It has count a higher number of buyers who are self
employed, have children.
ADAMS

In 1933 Amy Adams decided to start a children’s

clothing business from her terraced home in
Birmingham. She was driven by the need to sell
attractive clothes that were durable and above all
fabulous value for money. For forty years the
company operated as an independent retailer
ultimately headed by Amy’s son Michael however
in 1973,was bought by Foster brothers, which ten
years later was acquired by the Sears Group. By
the late 80’s it had grown to over 200 stores and by 90’s had become a key player in childrens
wear market.

BRAND COUNTRY
THE TERRITORY AHEAD MALIFORD,CONNECTICUT
ISABELLA BIRD MALIFORD,CONNECTICUT
OJAI CLOTHING CALIFORNIA
GARNET HILL FRANCON
ANDERSEN & LAUTH REYKJAVIK
BOOTS UK
ADAMS BIRMINGHAM

THE COMPANY WORKS 60% OF ITS BUSINESS WITH USA BRANDS AND REST WITH UK
BRANDS.
 ORGANISATION STRUCTURE

MANAGING DIRECTOR
(JAYA RAO)

PRODUCTION MERCHANDISER
(DIPANSHU SHARMA)

ASSISTANT PRODUCTION MERCHANDISER

(JYOTI SINGH, SUNIL KUMAR)

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

PATTERN MASTER- SANJAY

PATTERN GRADING- SAKEIL AHMED

TAILORS
PRODUCT DEPARTMENT

PRODUCT INCHARGE- JITENDER GUPTA

LINE SUPERVISOR- RANJEET SINGH

LINE COADER- SHANTANU VATS

PRODUCTION CHECKER- SUNIL, RAVINDER

QUALITY HEAD- AFTAB

ACCESSORIES+ FABRIC STORE INCHARGE

(RAJESH GUPTA)

FINISHING INCHARGE (NAGENDAR)

Types of Products

 Kids wear

 Boys shirts

 Girls Dresses

 Women’s Wear
 Tops

 Shirts

 Gown

 Dresses
Layout of the Factory

Floor Departments
Ground Floor The Ground floor has the fabric store area, Trims & accessories store,
fabric inspection area, cutting and spreading area, ticketing and
bundling sections, IT department.
First Floor The First floor has the Stitching department, Sampling area, & Quality
Department, Packing department, Pressing and Pantry.
Second Floor The Second floor has the Stitching department, Production department.

A) RECEPTION
Reception is there at the entry of the building. If any person has to enquire about some department they can
come there to solve their enquiries.

B) SHOWROOM
The showroom is at the third floor of the building. When a buyer is
about to visit the factory, the showroom is designed for them with the
exclusive pieces of garments and the pieces they wanted to see.

C) MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
The Merchandising department is an important part of every industries they form the
relation and negotiation between the company and its buyers and suppliers. The
merchandisers are segregated according to the brands. Every brand has their own set of
merchandisers who, on approvals of designs from the design department works towards
the fabric procurement, buyer negotiations, vendor compliances and following up with the
style and the orders till they have been received by the buyers as per buyer preferences.
D) STITCHING DEPARTMENT

Stitching department is the most important department of

any garment manufacturing unit. This department is
responsible for the conversion of cut panels into actual
garments. Kaleidoscope has Second floor dedicated to the
stitching department comprising of 3 lines having 30-40
machines each.

When a new style comes over; the various information like operation breakdown, sewing
details, critical operations etc. is put up on the display board. A sample of the garment is also
put up in front of the sewing line for any type of reference.

 Line is set as per line layout plan.

 Operations are assigned to the operators according to their skill set.

 Line in charge & supervisor give the direction to the operators about their respective
jobs.

 In line checkers and QC’s ensure that the quality coming out of each operation is as per
the quality specification.

MACHINARY DETAILS

 Single Needle
 Double Needle
 Over lock Machine
 Button attaching
 Button Hole Machine
 Snap Button Machine
E) SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
Sampling is the product development stage. It is a mini production floor where all the
functions of a garment manufacturing unit are done on a small scale. The sample
sections operators are highly skilled and are capable of tailoring a complete garment. All
the functions ranging from cutting to sewing to finishing is accomplished here. The
sampling section follows the make through system or producing the garments.

TYPES OF SAMPLES

Various samples which are being developed at different stages are being mentioned
below:-

Proto Sample
Fit Sample
Sales Sample
Pre Production Sample / Top Of Production Sample
Size Set Sample

1) Proto Sample:
Proto sample is the rough interpretation of the enquiry done to acquaint the tailors with the
style. It is usually done on the substitute fabrics, and using accessories, what is available and
then checked on the dress form. The quality inspectors from the respective buying houses
or the buyer checks the sample, makes the necessary changes pertaining to the fit, the
drape, the style details etc. Once this stage is completed, it’s time to move on to the next
stage.
2) Fit Sample:
The fit of the garment assumes the pivotal importance in this sample. It is usually done on
the substitute / actual fabrics and substitute trims and accessories. It is sent directly to the
buyer for necessary alterations to be made. Depending upon the changes or the comments
of the buyer, the revised fit samples are made till the final approval is obtained.
3) Sales Sample:
The sales sample is done when the buyer requests for a certain no. of pieces for the
promotion of the product yet to come. It gives the buyer certain types of feedback about his
product and leaves him better equipped to decide on the production quantity.
It usually consists of 6 to 7 pieces in each size and color.
F) PRE PRODUCTION SAMPLE / TOP OF PRODUCTION SAMPLE

It is done on the actual fabric using the actual trims and the fit has to be perfect. It is simply
a prelude to the actual production.

G) SIZE SET SAMPLE

It is done according to the buyer’s request. It is almost equivalent of the pre production
sample except that it was done in all the sizes or in the jumping sizes s per the buyer’s
request.
This department includes-:

Sampling
manager

Pattern Cutting Stitching Finishing Record

makers incharge supervisor supervisor keepers
eeee
makers
Tailors Embroide
r
Thread Press
cutter men
H) QUALIT CONTROL

The company has in-house lab testing for garments, fabrics, and trims. The labs are
equipped to test for all parameters including color fastness to light.

I) FABRIC AND TRIM DEPARTMENT

The trims store is another part of the inventory where the trims that is thread, zipper,
buttons, and labels etc. are stored and given to the departments as per requirements. Also,
all the various trims required for hand embroidery are also stored and issued from the trims
store. All the raw materials (i.e. the shell fabric, the pocketing fabric, fusing, trims and
accessories, etc.) are ordered and purchased by the stores department and issued to the
various departments. Fabric is sourced from the following vendors - The buyer either
specifies the vendors from where the material is to be sourced or the company sources.

It from the local vendors like:

 a. Fabric Supplier- Shakeel Chand and Jain Silks
b. Threads- Jagdeesh suppliers
c. Tapes, Piping, Elastic- JK Traders
d. Labels- Kuldeep Labels
e. Raw carton- Sai Industries

Types of thread that are available are:

 100 Tex
 40 Tex
 25 Tex
 20 Tex
Types of Buttons available are:
 Polyester Button
 Plastic Button
 Pearl Button
 Polyester Pearl Button
 Coconut Button
 Snap Button
 Wooden Button
 Metal Button and etc

Store deals with following activities

1. Requisition of material
2. Acquisition of Material
When the material is delivered from the buyer as per requisition, it goes
through number of checks. First it is checked at the gate physically to ensure
that the right fabric, to the right unit address, from the right vendor and in
the right quantity has arrived. If there are any discrepancies in any of the
details then proper actions are taken as per the problem. If it is approved at
the gate, then a request is send to the fabric store and material is send
there in the fabric store, the entry is made in to their register of the fabric,
and then it goes through various inspections.
WORKFLOW OF SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

Sample Requisition sent by Merchandiser along with

Fabric & Trims

Patterns are made as per PO

Cutting

Stitching

Washing

Measurement Checking

Kaj Button

Finishing

Ironing

Packing
J) COSTING

Costing of the garment in bulk is calculated on the basis of quality of material and their
requirement in the garment. It is one of the most important activities of the merchandiser. To
arrive at a perfect price to be quoted to the buyer, following points are taken into
consideration:

 Calculation of consumption of fabric (yields per yard) and threads to produce one
garment
 Calculation of cost of fabric per garment
 Calculation of cost of trims and threads
 Cut-make cost
 Poly bag cost
 Cost of carton box

Calculation of Average

 For Buyer: Average is found by Pattern Master only for Costing Purpose.

 For Company: Average is found out by cutting department for production purpose to
determine how much fabric is used in production in making an garment and difference
between both average is net profit.

K) COMMUNICATION FLOW

 They send mails or conference takes place between the buyer and merchandiser.

 People are satisfied with the environment.

L) FLOW MONITORING

 Before the shipment goes quality inspector check the garment from the buyer.

 They decide with the buyer that they will arrange the shipment or the buyer will have
to arrange himself.

 After deciding the mode of transportation, goods are taken to the required place.

M) SHIPPING DEPARTMENT

 They decide with the buyer that they will arrange the shipment or the buyer will have to
arrange himself.

 Agencies export house work with: IMPULSE and WE COMER

 If the merchandiser is unable to send the shipment to buyer then he will cancel it.

 Sometimes they extend the time, send by air not by ship.

 Total 250 employees are working in this department.

 Main work of merchandiser is to see that the shipment goes on time. Before starting the
production all the department heads are given the instructions.

N) CONFIRMING DELIVERIES

 After the shipment is done the goods reach to the buyer, from their documents are to
be completed and is sent back to the merchandiser with a stamp.

 Also mails are sent back and other things are done to confirm the deliveries.
PREPARING TIME AND ACTION PLAN:

This is prepared by the merchant stating that all the different activities associated with the
order should be complete by the stipulated dates. It is like making sub goals to accomplish the
ultimate goal which is shipping of the order on the pre- decided date.
1. Preparing the bill of material: This enlists all the different materials required for making
the garment.

2. Execution: Merchandising department communicates with the buyer QA during the

production. He gets the approval of the quality or any changes in the garment.

3. Shipment of goods: According to delivery date the goods are shipped on time.
Documentation department is informed about the delivery date, the quantity etc. In
case of any delay, goods are sent through air on the company’s co.
 REFLECTION

For the first time I had visited an export house. I had gone with my group
members to KALEIDOSCOPE, which is located in Faridabad. This export house
does not run on a very large scale as compared to other export house visited by
other groups in my class.

Export House is located in the Industrial area of Faridabad, it is a three storey

building where the ground floor has the fabric store area, trims & accessories
store, fabric inspection area, cutting and spreading area, ticketing and
bundling sections, IT department, the first floor has the stitching department,
production, sampling area, & quality Department, packing department,
pressing and pantry and the second floor has the stitching department,
&quality Department.

It was Saturday when we visited the store for the first time. There were workers
those who were busy in stitching department. Workers were local skilled labors,
hired by the export house. In the stitching department workers were stitching an
autumn winter collection.

In the storage house I found out a variety of trims, laces, beads and bulk of
fabric lying, which was to be used for the production purpose.

It was so good to see the production of apparel on such a large scale. We also had
a talk with the merchandiser() there. She was such an amazing lady, she tried
to explain us whatever we asked her. Although she was very busy but still she
told us many things. She was really a knowledgeable person.

It was an amazing experience to visit the export house for the first time as we got
to know the different stages of garment production and also learnt the
functioning of export house.

RADHIKA MUNDHRA

(PGFB Sec C)
 An experience to remember…
The colorful Journey started with my dream workplace i.e An Apparel
Manufacturing Export Unit. The name was KALIEDOSCOPE situated in DLF
Industrial Area, Phase-1 Faridabad.

We received the warm welcome by the merchandiser ”Mr. Deepanshu” of that

export unit. He directly took us to the Showroom. It was so colorful, in all the
four directions I saw different kinds of dresses for Kids Wear and Women’s
wear. This made me more curious to know about their manufacturing process.
Then we started with our questions, he explained everything to us and answered
each and every question which we asked. He also explained the working of each
of their department. He let us visit the entire unit. It was a three story building,
we started with the ground floor which has the fabric store area, Trims &
accessories store, fabric inspection area, cutting and spreading area, ticketing
and bundling sections, IT department. While visiting it the merchandiser gave
us the briefing of their working too and we clicked the pictures. Then we moved
to the first floor which has the Stitching department, Sampling area, & Quality
Department, Packing department, Pressing and Pantry. We saw employees
working and they were so cooperative they also give us the required amount of
information. The second floor was continuation of stitching department and
quality department.

Then we met “Mrs Jaya Rao” the owner of the manufacturing unit. She was so
polite and good to talk to. She was so experienced and expertise in her field. She
guided us for our project though she was busy but somehow she managed to do
so.
It was a great experience to visit an apparel manufacturing unit and I am
looking forward to work in it.

KRITIKA CHAWLA

(PGFB Sec C)
 REFLECTION

This reflection is a brief description of the visit to an apparel manufacturing

export unit that is KALEIDOSCOPE situated in DLF industrial area phase-1,
Faridabad. The factory had four floors. The ground floor had the fabric store
area, trim and accessories store, fabric inspection area, cutting and spreading,
ticketing and bundling section, IT department. The first floor had the sampling
area and quality department, packing department, pressing and pantry. The
second floor had the stitching department and production department. The third
floor had the stitching department and quality department. We observed all the
departments separately. Firstly, there was a merchandising department. It
forms the relation and negotiation between the company and its buyers and
suppliers. Then, there was a sampling department. It is a mini-production floor
where all the functions of a garment manufacturing unit are done on a small
scale. The employees working at the sampling section were highly skilled and
were capable of tailoring a complete garment. The trim store is another part of
the inventory where the trims that is thread, zipper, buttons, labels etc are stored
and given to the departments as per required. Hand embroidery was also being
done beautifully by the employees and these trims for hand embroidery were
also stored and issued from the trim store. All the employees working there were
highly professional, disciplined and focused towards their work. They were
concerned about their staff and provided them with all the basic necessities. The
main aim of the factory was to provide a retail experience which exceeds their
customers’ expectations in terms of customer service, product range, quality,
value and to adequately reward their staff. In short, this visit was a great
learning experience for all of us. Through this we could personally observe
working of each and every department in apparel manufacturing export unit. It
will further help us in our integrated group project study.

PRIYANSHA JAIN

(SEC- C PGFB)
 REFLECTION

I visited to the export house ‘KALEIDOSCOPE’ at Faridabad.

It was a great experience, came to know about the process

Of manufacturing of the garment, about the organization,

There terms and polices, there working environment is very good, they motivate
there employees, having a good connection with the buyers also.

It is this intriguing reality that KALEDPSOPE apparel was born to compliment

with, being a supplier of all kinds of fabric to reputed export house they have in
depth knowledge of the rich variety of Indian fabric came easy.

They ensure stringent international quality standard and deliveries,

KALEIDOSCOPE never had look back. There state –of the–art production
facility is run by a highly team and looked by the efficient line of
management. KALEIDOSCOPE will always endeavor to surprise and delight.

DEEKSHA KOHLI

(SEC- C PGFB)