2019

Inflatable Boat fishing.

Buyers Guide 0.1

Carlo Lupi
Inflatable Boat Advice
Fun, Fishing & Friendships
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THINKING OF BUYING AN INFLATABLE

BOAT FOR FISHING?
LET US HELP

Inflatable boat history and reliability PLBs and EPIRBs

PVC v HYPALON VHF Radio

Why choose an inflatable boat? VHF Radio Course

Choosing the right kind of floor. RYA SafeTrx App

What Size Sib shall I choose? RYA PB1 Course

The best pump? RYA PB2 Course

What size HP engine? Boat Repairs

What size engine shaft? Boat Maintenance

Kill cord Fish Finders

2 Stroke or 4 Stroke? Where can I fish?

Anchors

Anchor Retrieval

Trailer

Insurance

Transom Wheels

Safety Equipment

Flares
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INFLATABLE BOAT HISTORY AND RELIABILITY

Inflatables have a very interesting history, which, like many types of boats, predates their use as
recreational vessels. To prevent damage and injury when transferring people from one boat to
another, the inflatable collar was developed to ring the entire boat in what amounts to a shock-
absorbing inner-tube. When the utility of this type of craft was recognized inflatables developed at a
rapid pace, and today they’re quite advanced as compared to the early versions.

Today inflatables come in the form of fully inflatable SIBs (Soft Inflatable Boat) and RIBs (rigid
inflatable boats), which have a rigid hull that’s surrounded by a large inflatable “collar.” There are
also a few versions that split the difference, by adding a fold-up hard deck that gets inserted into the
boat when it’s inflated (F-Rib). Fully inflatable boats gain the advantage of easy storage, since they
can be deflated completely and packed away into a small area. This makes them ideal for fishing, or
as a tender for larger vessels. RIBS, on the other hand, enjoy the abilities of a rigid wave-splitting hull
which can smooth out a bumpy ride. Both versions are considered extremely seaworthy –
remember, they’re essentially wrapped by a gigantic PFD – and thanks to today’s tough materials
like Hypalon and Neoprene, puncturing the collar is an extremely rare event (and when it does
happen, patching the hole is an easy process). These materials are also resistant to UV radiation and
often are protected by a layer of nylon to extend their lifetime.

While inflatables have mostly been used as tenders and for commercial purposes to date, SIB and
RIB versions have gained wide acceptance in Europe as dedicated leisure and fishing boats. There’s
no arguing the rugged, seaworthy nature of inflatable boats these days.

PVC VERSUS HYPALON

Inflatable boats are constructed from either PVC or Hypalon, and the trade-off here is between price
and durability. PVC is extremely popular because it's lightweight and affordable. It's easily
folded, and recent developments in polymers mean that modern PVC can also be remarkably strong.
Some come with threads woven into the material, and these threads are measured in denier. A
higher rating denotes a stronger thread, but you should also pay attention to the nature of the
weave, as a more tightly-woven thread (for instance, 6x6 per cm rather than 3x3) is likely to prove
more resilient. On the downside, PVC remains susceptible to extended exposure to sunlight, heat,
and humidity.

Hypalon, on the other hand, is a weighty, expensive, and extremely robust fabric. That's why it's
commonly used in the construction of heavy-duty RIBs. Plainly then, your buying decision should be
based partly on budget but also on your intended usage. If you want to keep your SIB ready-built
and routinely exposed for frequent use, then Hypalon is the answer. However, if you want a more
compact and portable boat and for stowing away between outings, a modern, lightweight PVC SIB is
likely to prove the better compromise.

Most boats available in the UK are made from PVC anyway so I’d stick with that option.
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FISHING FROM AN INFLATABLE BOAT, WHY?

Let’s start by looking at the advantages of inflatable boats. In this case SIBs (Soft Inflatable Boats)

Portability, affordable, easy to care for with lots of space on deck to store gear, rods, tackle, nets,
and cool boxes.

Thanks to their ability to serve as a general-purpose craft, inflatables are enticing more and more
boaters to make the switch from hard-hulled boats.

You might be wondering why in the world someone would want to fish from an inflatable boat.
Maybe you’re just curious to know what the pros and cons are. Either way, we’ll explain why you
should choose an inflatable boat over any other boat to go fishing.

The first and most common reason is portability. Owning an inflatable boat means you can store it
easily in the garage, spare room, garden lock up or similar. Where are you going to store a large boat
other than paying for it to be moored or taking up your front drive.

The second reason is cost. Inflatable boats are much cheaper than a regular wooden, metal or plastic
boat, if you’re on a budget but still want to go fishing, buying an inflatable boat is the best choice for
you.

SIBs are easily kept requiring very little maintenance.

OK Inflatables will never be as durable as boats made from hard and solid materials. You can run a
wooden boat into a sharp rock without making too much damage, do the same with an inflatable
and you’ll be swimming back to shore. Punctures do happen from time to time.

RIB compared to a SIB?

Wait, what? Are they not the same thing? There’s a confusion going on where people mistake RIBs
for SIBs and vice versa. The difference between the two is the floor/deck. A RIB has a rigid floor so
will be unable to fold down and be packed into a car and will require a trailer. You may need to have
it moored or kept in the garage or drive while a SIB has a soft floor that can be taken apart and
folded down making it easier to transport.

Which is the best inflatable boat to buy?

People ask this question all the time so here is a complete buyers guide for people interested in
fishing from an inflatable boat.

Let’s just start by saying there’s no best inflatable boat for fishing. Sorry to say it, but that’s the way
it is, there’s just too many things to take into consideration. What might be the best fishing boat for
one might be completely different for someone else.

There are a lot of factors to take into consideration, location, what type of fishing you’re going to do,
how many there are of you, experience level and your budget. These are all things you must think
about when choosing your boat.

Instead of taking a gamble and hoping to choose the right boat, let us help you.
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THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN CHOOSING YOUR BOAT.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT KIND OF FLOOR

What makes a SIB stand out from the rest is their floor, there are three types of floors a SIB can
come with; slats, air deck, and a solid deck. They all have their own special feel to them, what floor
you get depends on how much money you’re willing to
spend.

SLATS

This This type of deck consists of wood or plastic

panels that you slot into the base of the SIB. They’re
usually 8-10 inches wide and leave gaps in between
them. They are found on the cheaper SIB’s. Their main
advantage over other floors is the fact that they can be
rolled up, easier to set up and easier to store.

AIR DECK

These kinds of deck do not have any slats or inserts. They’re

inflated like the rest of the boat, which makes set up time a
little longer compared to slats, they do however feel more
solid than slats. Air decks add more mass to a SIB, making
them slightly heavier than slats (still more portable than a
solid deck SIB though).

SOLID DECK

A solid deck will be the most solid out of all three, it

makes the SIB feel like a real boat. A solid deck is
made from either wood or aluminium panels that
you piece together. Because it’s a hard and solid
deck, the keel will be pushed down, this makes for
better steering and handling. There’s a drawback, however… These kinds of floors are a real
challenge to put together, especially if you’ve never assembled a floor like this. We highly
recommended that you get a friend to help you out. Trying to assemble a floor like this by yourself
for the first time will drive you nuts. Luckily it gets easier with each time you assemble it, so give it a
couple of weeks and you’ll have it done it in no time. The main advantage of having a solid deck is
being able to mount a bigger outboard engine.
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WHAT SIZE SIB WILL I NEED?

So, that all depends on a few things.

How many of you will be using it on a regular basis?

If using it for fishing, then consider how much equipment you have. Then add on an auxiliary fuel
tank if needed as well as a builder’s bucket (Gorilla Tub) or box to store your anchor. Possibly even a
25-50L Dry Bag for storing valuables.

Most SIB lengths range between 2.4m and 5m.

I have a 2.9m which is adequate for two people with one set of fishing gear. If you add the second
persons fishing gear to that it starts to get a bit too cosy so opt for something in the 3.4m+ region.

A good size SIB can carry up to 6 passengers with a fair amount of fishing gear.

INFLATING YOUR SIB. WHAT ARE THE BEST PUMPS?

This one is down to personal preference and budget. There are many on the market with prices
ranging anywhere from £20 up to £200.

You could just opt for a foot pump but with two or three tubes
and possibly an air deck to inflate too, you’ll certainly be considering easier options before long.
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So electric pumps are your best bet to get your SIB pumped up the quickest and easiest,

The most popular seems to be the Bravo 12V BTP pump at around
£150

The Bravo 12V BST800 is super quick, priced a bit higher

than the BTP but does the job quicker. This one comes
with a 12V Battery included.
Both Bravo pumps are available on the group website.

WHAT HP ENGINE WILL I NEED?

That depends on the size of the boat and how much you will be pulling. Below is a rough guide as
boat manufacturers engine limits will vary slightly.

Motor HP Boat length (feet) Boat length (metres)

2hp – 10hp 8’ – 12’ up to 3.5m

5hp – 15hp 8’ – 14’ up to 4.2m

9hp – 20hp 11’ – 16’ up to 4.5m

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WHAT SIZE ENGINE SHAFT WILL MY BOAT NEED?

There are lots of charts out there that explain what length represents what size shaft. I found this
diagram as it explains the most common lengths as well as explaining the cavitation plate should be
in line with the bottom of the boat. Most if not all SIBs will require a short shaft engine.
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KILL CORD

What is a kill cord? How does it work?

Always, always, always use a kill cord and ensure that it is attached to the driver of the boat.

Most outboard engines will normally be fitted with a kill cord which, if used correctly, will stop the
engine if the driver becomes dislodged from the helm position.

Attaching the kill cord

The kill cord is a red lanyard which

has a quick-release fitting at one
end and a clip at the other end.
When in use, the quick-release
fitting is attached to the console
and the end with the clip attaches
to the driver. The kill cord is
normally attached around the
driver’s wrist or leg and clipped
back onto itself.

A kill cord is coiled in its design to allow the driver the natural movement required when helming a
boat. Should the driver move away from, or be thrown from, the helm position the kill cord will
detach from the console and the engine will stop. Detaching the kill cord also allows a crew or
passenger to stop the engine if the driver were to become incapacitated whilst at the helm – e.g.
they fainted.

In most instances the boat will not start without the kill cord in place therefore a second kill cord
should be kept on board to allow boat to be re-started if the driver and kill cord have gone
overboard. The kill cord should be worn by the driver whenever the engine is running.

Should you for any reason not wish to attach the kill cord around your wrist or leg, attach it securely
to your personal buoyancy. In either case it should not foul the steering or gear controls.

The kill cord prevents the driver moving away from the normal operating position either
intentionally or by accident. It might therefore be tempting to use a kill cord that is longer than the
item provided by the manufacturer of the engine, to allow you a little more movement, but this
could result in the kill cord not doing its job when you really need it to. If you need to leave the
command position, or you are changing driver, you should turn the engine off. The engine should
only be re-started when the kill cord has been secured to the new driver.

Check the kill cord works

Check your kill cord works at the start of each day or session by starting the engine and pulling the
kill cord to makes sure it stops the engine.
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TWO STROKE OR FOUR STROKE?

Due to advancing technology and ongoing research you’ll have several options when finding the
right outboard for your SIB.

The main factors are weather to purchase:

 Used outboard (two or four stroke)

 New four stroke outboard
 New direct fuel injected two stroke outboard

Each have several different main features, for example two stoke outboards are lighter, faster (in
some cases) and less expensive. Four stroke motors are cleaner, smoother, more economical, great
trolling motors and meet environmental requirements. This is not to say two stroke outboards can’t
troll or four strokes are not faster, the advancing technology of each outboard manufacturer is
improving each individual factor, it is a matter of preference and which best suits your requirements.
Below is a table of pros and cons.

TWO STROKE ENGINES

PROS

 Lighter
 Accelerate fast and in some cases more top end speed
 Purchase price is cheaper
 Easier to repair
 Strong used market
 Used parts availability
 Simple design allowing for less to go wrong
 Strong resale value due to cost of new

CONS

 More pollutant
 Recurring cost of oil
 Mixing of oil with fuel must be correct to avoid serious damage
 Smoke
 Rough idle
 Carburettor can gum up easier if not used due to oil mixture in fuel (not true for direct fuel
injection two stokes)
 Nosier
 Spark plugs blackening up
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FOUR STROKE ENGINES

PROS

 Quiet
 Less pollutant
 Future production, technology and research is amid at four strokes or similar
 No oil needs to be mixed with fuel
 Great for trolling
 Fuel economy
 Very reliable
 Smooth idle

CONS

 Heavy
 Limited used market
 Larger in size
 A little more expensive to purchase
 Often more expensive to service or repair
 In some cases, many not accelerate as fast
 Harder to transport or store must be laid on a certain side if not upright.
 More parts, possible meaning more can go wrong

You can’t go wrong with either outboard but research to find out what is best suited for your
requirements.

ANCHORS

Fluke - This style has two large hinged flukes and is

designed to bury in the bottom to create the
holding power. They are light weight and flat when
stored, which makes them a great option for SIBs.
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Grapnel - Works well if there is something solid down there to get

one of the hooks on. If it does get a good hook it can be next to
impossible to retrieve! Easy to store and carry. Inexpensive to
purchase. Found in most SIBs.

Grapnel anchor with chain and breakaway tie.

Adding the chain will weigh your chain down enabling it to dig in to the ground. There is however a
risk of snagging the chain on a rock so using this cable tie method means you can retrieve your
anchor with a hefty tug.

Simply attach the chain to

the eye next to the arms
and run it down the shaft to
the opposite end. Thread a
cable tie through the end
eye and chain together and
your all set.

In the event of a snag all

you do is give the rope a
good tug and it should
break free and release.
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ANCHOR RETRIEVAL TECHNIQUE

To prevent breaking your back when retrieving your anchor, you may choose to use the Alderney
ring method

This method is an alternative to

hauling by hand. It uses the
forward motion of your boat and
the resistance of the buoy to haul
the anchor. The Alderney ring is the
ring that the anchor line runs
through while also being attached
to the buoy. The buoy needs to be
large enough to be able to float the
combined weight of the anchor and
its chain. One method of raising the
anchor is to position your boat
parallel to the position of the
anchor (down tide) and then follow
a curved trajectory up tide. This
creates an upwards pressure on the anchor which makes the anchor lift out of its position on the
seafloor. The Alderney ring must be large enough to allow the chain of the anchor to pass through.
The advantage of this method is that the buoy takes the weight of the anchor making it easier to
haul the anchor in once the chain has passed through the Alderney ring.

The method to “heave anchor” with an Alderney ring

can be found on the internet, for instance on
YouTube, where you will find the method quickly
described. The anchor is raised by using a buoy and a
ring and the power of your SIB. The resistance of the
buoy in the water is greater than the resistance of
the line against the ring. This means that the boat
will pull up the anchor when the boat moves.
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SHALL I BUY A TRAILER?

This all depends on what size

SIB you have.

Heavy inflatables like RIBs

(rigid inflatable boats)
obviously need to be left in
the water or loaded on a
trailer for storage.

Even some of the larger SIBs

are heavy enough that
storing and transporting
them on a trailer makes a lot
of sense.

Getting Started with a Trailer

 Make sure the trailer capacity is correct for the boat and the vehicle tow capacity is correct for the
boat and trailer unit.
 Make sure the boat is fitted correctly to the trailer

Tying Down the Boat

 Tie down the transom of the boat with quality transom tie down straps (either ratchet straps or the
cam lock style that hook over the top of the transom)
 Make sure the winch strap is attached to the bow of the boat
 Make sure the winch safety chain is hooked to the bow of the boat
 Tie down the gunwales of the boat by using a long ratchet strap over the boat (especially with
collapsible inflatables that are very light for their size and can bounce around on the trailer)
 The outboard motor should be in the lowered position when trailer towing to safeguard from
damage to the lift mechanism during travel (many boaters use special outboard motor brackets
called transom savers to stabilize the motor in a partially lowered position during road travel)

Connecting the Tow Vehicle

 Make sure you use the correct ball size on the tow vehicle hitch before connecting the trailer for
towing
 Hook up the trailer safety chains by crossing them under the hitch on the vehicle
 Plug in the lights before driving and check that they work every time you hook them up!

Traveling

 After trailer towing for a short distance (like just outside of town if it is the start of a long trip) stop
and double check, tie downs, safety chains, hitches and lights.
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 At every stop check the tie downs, safety chains, hitch and wheel bearing (touch them to see if hot)
to make sure things are riding properly. Frequent checking can save you from big repairs down the
road.
 A mechanic advised me to touch the wheel hubs at every stop to check for heat build-up. This is a
great way to catch a problem before it becomes a seized bearing.
 Remember to take corners wide if trailering is a new experience for you. The trailer tires follow a
different path than the tow vehicle! Practice backing the trailer in a vacant parking lot to become
comfortable backing down a boat ramp.

The Trailer

 Check tire pressures on the trailer tires frequently

 Wash off the trailer with fresh water after use in salt water (this will greatly increase the life of your
trailer)
 Service brake assemblies regularly
 Make sure the hubs are repacked yearly, and other maintenance is done on the trailer by yourself
or a mechanic you trust

Trailering Checklist

 Lights working
 Ball/receiver latched and locked
 Safety chains connected to tow vehicle
 Fenders secure/ tires not rubbing
 Tire pressure correct
 Boat secured to trailer
 Test brakes (if applicable)

DO I NEED INSURANCE TO USE A SIB?

Insurance is not a legal requirement in the UK yet but is strongly advised.

In the event of an accident or if your SIB is stolen or damaged you’ll be glad you did.

Look up online or one of the groups ‘Trusted Suppliers’ is Rod Daniel from Craftinsure.

You can get an immediate quote online at www.craftinsure.com

Or call Rod on 0345 2607 888.

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TRANSOM WHEELS

Make sure you purchase inflatable

launching wheels that are rated for the
weight of your boat and motor and
remember the size of the wheels will
greatly affect how easy they are to use.

Small diameter, narrow hard plastic

wheels are hard to roll across soft surfaces like sand and harder shingle but work well on slipways.
Larger diameter wide wheels roll more easily.

I have used my inflatable launching wheels on all kinds of sand, shingle, as well as on concrete. The
large diameter, wider tire design makes it relatively easy to move the boat.

Most inflatable launching wheels need to be either flipped up or removed once on the water.

Check out the group website. There are three different wheels to choose from.
www.inflatableboatfishing.com

If installing wheels that can’t be removed, then make sure when folding the boat up it still fits into
the carry bag.

Each model has advantages and disadvantages.... you will need to figure out which is most important
to you depending on where you plan to launch most often.
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WHAT SAFETY EQUITMENT WILL I NEED?

Of course, safety on the water is paramount and having the right safety gear with you is vital.

Life jackets and buoyancy aids:

Life Jackets are designed with a specific shape which when inflated enables you to float above and
with the direction of the waves, while keeping you buoyant in a safe position. If a spray hood is
fitted, the Spray Hood protects your airways from sea spray. A man overboard casualty can not only
drown from immersion in water but can drown from inhaling the sea spray and mist. If you are likely
to be offshore, a Spray Hood is vital.

Life Jackets consist of an outer cover and waist belt with crotch strap which contains a fluorescent
inflatable lung which when required contains the ability to fill with gas, inflate and become buoyant.
At other times it is worn deflated and in theory, close to the body.

All life Jackets are either “Manual” or “Automatic” and irrespective of whether they are Manual or
Automatic, can orally inflate using the oral Tube on the lung or manually inflate using the pull cord.

A Manual Life Jacket will only inflate on demand when the manual pull cord is pulled. This pulling
motion detaches a clip on the mechanism which breaks and activates the gas bottle, releasing the
CO2 gas which then inflates the lung.

Manual Life Jackets are particularly effective for confident sailors or mariners who are familiar with
the product; they could be inshore or on the dock. Manual jackets are also required when operating
a SIB when you will be in contact with a lot of sea spray and sitting low down in the water.

Cons wearing a manual life jacket, imagine getting knocked unconscious on the way into the water, if
you were unconscious a manual life jacket will do nothing for you.

Pros wearing a manual life jacket include it not inflating accidently when water splashes over your
SIB.

So, weigh up the chances of you getting knocked unconscious in a SIB compared to how likely you
are to get it wet accidently.

An Automatic Life Jacket can be inflated Manually, as above, or Automatically on contact with water.
An Automatic Life Jacket can be relied on in a man overboard situation if you are not an experienced
seaman, it will also still work if you are knocked unconscious or disorientated by the fall and are
unable to pull the pull cord. The Automatic Life Jacket contains a mechanism which when wet
activates a sensor which fires and activates the gas bottle, releasing the CO2 which then inflates the
lung.

On both Manual and Automatic Life jackets you can also top up the air within the lung with the oral
valve.

There is a whistle fitted on the lung of every life jacket for attracting attention.

Make sure you always wear the crotch strap.

There is also an option for a SOLAS LIGHT which is imperative if out at night or if there is potential
for you to be still waiting rescue during dim or dark hours of the day; if you are offshore or travelling
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distances, even around the UK Coastline, you could be awaiting rescue in dim and dark conditions.
The SOLAS light is also recommended to give you additional piece of mind.

The inflatable "Bladder" or "Lung" is constructed from marine grade High-Viz Yellow or orange fabric
which has three bars of SOLAS approved reflective tape on, this would reflect your personal SOLAS
Light or search lights which will attract attention.

There is also an option for a Spray Hood which is used for protection of the airways from sea spray
and water whilst waiting for help in a search and rescue situation. There is a long black grab strap
which you pull, and this brings the hood over your head and the inflated life jacket. There is also 3-
bars of SOLAS approved reflective tape on the spray hood.

A Buoyancy Aid contains buoyant padding which helps keep you above water. Buoyancy Aids are
often bulky and cannot be relied on in an emergency as they only aid floatation. If you are
unconscious or injured, they do not keep your face out of water and you do need a certain amount
of ability to tread water to keep yourself safe.
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FLARES

Another thing to consider having on board are Flares. These can be bought from most chandlers

A pack like this will

set you back near
£100 but you can
spend anything
between £15 and
£300 on them.

The only problem

with flares are they
require someone to
see them.

PLB’s and EPIRB’s

A Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) is a personal electronic transmitter used to alert rescuers that
there has been a life threatening man over board (MOB) situation with a need to be rescued. When
activated, the PLB sends out a signal on either a 406MHz frequency or Local Area System using
121.5MHz, VHF DSC and/or AIS.

An Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon (EPIRB) is used to alert search and rescue services
in the event of an emergency. It does this by transmitting a coded message on the 406 MHz distress
frequency via satellite and earth stations to the nearest rescue co-ordination centre.

Some EPIRBs also have built-in GPS which enables the rescue services to accurately locate you to +/-
50 metres.

Who uses EPIRBs?

EPIRBs are generally installed on boats and can either be operated automatically after an incident or
manually. In most countries they are mandated to be used in all commercial shipping. However, they
are also used on yachts and leisure boats.
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How does an EPIRB work?

406 MHz EPIRBs work with the Cospas-Sarsat polar orbiting

satellite system, giving true global coverage. There is an
alert delay of about 45 minutes dependant on when the
satellites come into view on the horizon.

The satellite can determine the position of your EPIRB to

within 5km (3 miles). The coded message identifies the
exact vessel to which the EPIRB is registered. This
information allows the rescue services to eliminate false
alerts and launch an appropriate rescue.

GPS-enabled EPIRBs have a built-in transmitter which will

typically alert the rescue services within 3 minutes and to a
positional accuracy of +/- 50 metres (updated every 20
minutes) given a clear view skywards.

Some EPIRBs also have a secondary distress transmitter.

This transmits on 121.5 MHz and is used for "homing"
purposes. When the rescue services get close, this allows them to direction find on the signal. Some
EPIRBs also have a high brightness LED flashing light that aids final visual location.

The differences between EPIRBs and PLBs

Personal Location Beacons work in the same way as EPIRBs

by sending a coded message on the 406 MHz distress
frequency which is relayed via the Cospas-Sarsat global
satellite system.

However, there are several differences between them.

PLBs are designed to be carried on the person so they are
much smaller, some such as the Fast find are not much
larger than the size of a mobile phone. PLBs are designed
to be used anywhere in the world, on the sea and on land.
Some don't float but may come with an additional
flotational sleeve which they should be carried in.

PLBs, once activated, will transmit for a minimum of 24

hours; while the battery life on an EPIRB is at least double
(a minimum of 48 hours). An EPIRB is registered to a
vessel, whereas a PLB is registered to a person. This means
that if you have it registered to your SIB and you switch to
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a new SIB the PLB is still correctly registered; however, if you have an EPIRB and buy a new SIB you
will need to re-register it when registering to your new boat.

VHF RADIO

A means of calling for help in the event of an onboard emergency is essential for all boaters.

Lots on the market. Just get one. For the sake of £100 it’s a no brainer.

Although in many instances a mobile phone may work, it is not designed for the marine environment
and coverage may be non-existent just when you need it most. Another means of communication is
therefore essential.

The carriage of at least a handheld VHF

is in most cases practical, and a
handheld will suffice if only a limited
communications range is required. A
fixed VHF set can allow
communications to be made over a
range of up to 20 – 40 miles depending
on the installation and conditions. VHF
also allows search and rescue (SAR)
authorities to locate you using Radio
Direction Finding (RDF) equipment.

The group website has the icom range available. Check them out here

VHF RADIO COURSE

If you have a VHF radio, then you need to take the course so you know what you’re doing and more
importantly saying.

The RYA Marine Radio Short Range Certificate (SRC) is the minimum qualification required to
operate marine VHF radio equipment on a UK flagged vessel. This includes both fixed and handheld
equipment with and without Digital Selective Calling (DSC). It is obtained by successfully completing
and SRC exam conducted at an RYA Recognised Training Centre.

Most candidates are required to complete an RYA SRC course prior to taking the exam, therefore the
majority of exams take place after marine radio SRC courses. When booking a SRC course the RYA
training centre will give you details of the time and location for the exam.
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The SRC course may be taken in a classroom or online through an RYA Recognised Training Centre.
There is no age limit for taking the SRC course although exam candidates must be 16 years old on
the day of the exam.

Course subjects include:

 routine operation of marine VHF radio including Digital Selective Calling

 the correct VHF channels (frequencies) to be used for each type of communication

 distress, emergency and medical assistance procedures

 ship to shore communication

 practical use of Marine VHF DSC radios

 Global Maritime Distress and Safety System (GMDSS)

 Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacons (EPIRB)

 Search and Rescue Transponders (SART)

The exam

The exam is a combination of a written theory test and practical assessment in the use of Marine
VHF DSC radios. Candidates must be 16 years or older on the day of the exam.

RYA SafeTrx APP

The RYA SafeTrx app monitors your boat journeys and alerts emergency contacts should you fail
to arrive on time.

RYA SafeTrx app is an app for both Android and Apple iOS smartphones that allows you to track your
journey (in UK territorial waters) on your phone.

RYA SafeTrx app provides all recreational boat users, particularly dinghy cruisers, PWC users, RIB &
SIB users, canoers, kayakers, wind and kite surfers and smaller boat users with an easily accessible
and simple to use means that can inform HM Coastguard of their voyage plans and dynamic location
in the event of distress.

This app is freely available to anyone who wants to be safer afloat. It is free to download and there is
no charge to use it.

How does it work?

You can enter your journey details directly from your smartphone and set off knowing that should
you not arrive by the time given, a nominated emergency contact will be alerted and advised to
initiate appropriate action.

Where an emergency contact calls HM Coastguard about an overdue trip, they will have access to
your location and SafeTrx trip data through a secure SafeTrx server.
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Since RYA SafeTrx periodically sends your location data back to our servers, HM Coastguard's
response team can get help directly to you, and quickly.

Whilst components of the GMDSS system remain the preferred means for communication and
distress alerting, RYA SafeTrx app is a useful backup and particularly helpful for those on the many
small craft that do not have the ability to fit or carry standard GMDSS equipment.

RYA SafeTrx is an accessible tool that SIB users can use when going to sea. It does not replace
GMDSS, EPIRB, PLB or AI

POWER BOAT COURSES

If you’re new and inexperienced to any style of boating you may consider going on a course to gain
confidence as well as knowledge on how to handle a SIB especially in harsh conditions, what to do in
emergency situations and knowing all the correct procedures when it comes to powerboating.

Level 1 Start Powerboating

This training course is for those keen for a basic introduction to powerboating or as a taster session.
No previous knowledge is necessary. Additionally, partners of boaters can use the training course to
acquire the skills necessary to handle a craft in an emergency. This course provides you with the
basics in powerboat handling and safety. It is not a requirement for adults to take Level 1 before
taking Level 2. The RYA Powerboat Level 1 Training Course syllabus is also an appropriate entry-level
course for introducing children to powerboating and is ideal if your children use a tender or dinghy
around the marina. The cost is in the region of £130

Level 2 Powerboat Handling

Without doubt the most popular RYA Powerboat Course in the world, the RYA Powerboat Level 2 is a
two-day practical and theory course which acts as the starting point for providing all the skills and
background knowledge that you need to go afloat safely, including man overboard recovery and
collision regulations. The two-day Powerboat Training Course covers all aspects of powerboating and
provides the skills and background knowledge required to be a competent Powerboat driver. It is the
basis of the International Certificate of Competence. You will also receive the Coastal Endorsement
to your certificate, which will cover tides, rules of the road, basic pilotage and navigational skills, and
the general seamanship needed to keep you, and your crew, safe at sea. The cost is in the region of
£200

DIY SIB REPAIRS

If you have the confidence to do your own repairs, then read on.

Once you have determined what type of material is coating your inflatable boat you will be able to
make your own SIB repair. The most common type of SIB repair that you will need to make is
stopping a leak.
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Sometimes when trying to inflate your SIB it simply will not hold pressure. This may be because of a
cut, tear or maybe even a deep scratch within the material itself but, it could be due to a faulty
valve.

Here are the steps you need to take to find where the leak is coming from

Pump air into your boat until you reach the optimal pressure indicated in your owner’s manual. If
you slap the tubes with your hand it should produce a hollow ring like beating a drum would.

When your inflatable boat has been filled with air, check all the tubes as well as the keel (if you have
one) or collars to see if there are any areas where the fabric has been damaged.

To check the valve stems to see if they are the cause of the leak, remove the cap and see if the
rubber diaphragms show any signs of escaping air and make sure they are seated properly.

Take a spray bottle and fill with washing up liquid and water, add the mixture to the spray bottle.

Spray the mixture on the boat areas and look for any bubbles. You may need to do this slowly and
only spray small areas that you can watch carefully. If you see bubbles in one area, make sure you
check in other places, you could have leaks in multiple areas.

After you have sprayed the entire area and found leaks, deflate the inflatable boat. It may be best to
mark the areas where the leaks have occurred with removal ink. NOTE ALL SOAPY WATER MUST
COMPLETLY REMOVED BEFORE YOUR REPAIR.

Use the correct patches and adhesives to make the repair.

Applying a Patch

The first thing you need to do before attempting any inflatable boat repair, whether to the tubes or
to any other area, is to have the right work area. You do not want to have a very humid space to
work in as this can affect the adhesive. Working in a shaded, dry area that is around 18-25 degrees
Celsius and less than 60% humidity is best.

After you have prepared your workspace, you need to get the right tools for the job. You will need
the right fabric, solvents, and adhesive.

Items you will need for your inflatable boat or SIB repair

For a temporary adhesive repair, you will need a 1-part adhesive. For a permanent or large patch,
you will need a 2-part adhesive. Fabric patch (it is imperative that you use the right fabric &
adhesive)

Primer and/or solvent for the patch (Solvent is optional but advised for larger repairs).

A short, stiff brush (a paint brush is fine).

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A lint-free, clean cloth (any debris can ruin the adhesive).

Fine sand paper. (Only needed with Hypalon)

If you are using a 2-part adhesive you will need a mixing stick.

Pencil or marker

Masking tape.

Wallpaper seam roller or Something heavy to make sure the patch is firmly stuck.

Inside Patch (Only needed if the hole/tear is greater than 30mm if this is not the case skip to Outside
Patch)

Measure the hole and cut your patch to be 30mm longer in every direction over the hole. Make sure
when cutting the material that all the corners are rounded.

If you are undertaking a Hypalon SIB repair you will need to sand the top surface around the hole
until it has a matt finish. The same process needs to be repeated to sand down the inside surface of
the tube and the patch. Using the solvent cleaner, wipe down the area that was sanded and allow
the solvent sufficient time to evaporate until the surface is dry (Solvent is not essential but advised
for larger repairs).

Following the directions on the adhesive tin, mix half. Using the small stiff brush, thinly apply a layer
of adhesive onto both surfaces so that it looks wet.

Allow the surfaces to dry for approximately 30 minutes.

Add a second coat of adhesive to both surfaces and allow it to dry for an additional 3/15 minutes
(See your tin of adhesive). At this point the adhesive should feel tacky when lightly touched.

With the inside patch, apply a piece of polythene onto the adhesive on the patch so that it can be
rolled up and pressed into the hole.

Place it inside the tube and put it in position. Using the seam roller, roll from the middle to the
outside of the patch. It is important to make sure that no air is trapped between the patch and the
adhesive.

Let the adhesive dry for at least 18 hours.

Once the adhesive has dried, inflate the tube and check for any leaks.

Outside Patch:

Once the area has been identified, cut a patch of fabric about 5cm larger than the hole the leak is
coming from. Place the piece of fabric over the hole and outline it with your marker.

Using your sandpaper, lightly sand the area where the patch will be added (NOTE ONLY SAND
HYPALON).
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Using a Solvent & a cloth carefully wipe down the area to be repaired as well as the back of the piece
of fabric to be used as a patch. Use the correct solvent on the fabric (MEK for PVC and PU or Toluene
for Hypalon) Note solvent is not essential

Use masking tape to surround the area that will be patched so that no adhesive leaks over.

Apply the adhesive according to the package directions using the brush; 2-part adhesives will have to
be mixed and typically cure quicker.

After the adhesive dries for 30 minutes, add a second and third coat leave for 3-10 minutes (See
your tin of adhesive) or till the surface becomes tacky.

Once the surface is tacky, add the fabric patch to the area. Be careful because once you add the
patch there is not a chance to add it again. Use a decorator’s wallpaper seam roller or a rounded
object to roll across the patch and remove any air bottles.

Remove the tape and clean any adhesive that leaked onto the tube using the solvent.

After you have cleaned the area place something heavy on top of the patch and let it set for at least
18 hours to cure. After 18 hours you should be able to re-inflate your boat and hit the water.

How to find a water leak in your SIB floor:

Damage to the floor is another common problem that affects SIBs. Here are the steps you should
take to make a repair to the floor of your inflatable boat:

Ensure that your inflatable boat repair is on a dry, flat surface, such as a table. It is not advisable to
attempt floor repairs on the ground outside as moisture can cause problems.

Inflate the boat completely and turn it upside down so that the bottom is facing up. Sprinkle talcum
powder across the entire base of the boat and use a dry brush to spread it onto every part of the
surface.

Turn the boat back over and pour about 1 litre of water into the boat. Gently move the boat back
and forth to ensure that the water has completely reached every part of the floor.

Lift the boat up and see where the leaks are coming from. The talcum powder will appear wet and
make any leaks visible. Use a marker to mark where any holes may be in the floor.

Repair the hole using a patch of the right fabric, the proper solvent, and the correct adhesive.
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BOAT MAINTENANCE

Boat maintenance is best done sooner than later!

What supplies do I use for boat cleaning?

There are many different cleaners that are available

specifically for inflatable boats. A simple solution of
soap and water works the best for regular cleaning,
but the stubborn stains may need something more.

How do I clean my boat?

During the boating season I simply hose down with

water as soon as I can if I’m not using it for a week
or more. When packing it up at the beach I rinse off
the worst of the sand and fish slime with a damp
towel or sponge.

The only real cleaning I give the boat is at the end of the summer before it’s stored for the winter.
This is when it gets a good soap and water scrub down, stubborn stains get washed off, and it gets
coated with a suitable protectant.

FISH FINDERS AND GPS

So, there are many fish finders out there or as I like to call them ‘Feature Finders’.

You can spend anything from £100 to £500 for a small enough unit perfect for a SIB. They can cost
much, much more but for a SIB all you really need is something small.

I personally prefer sea fishing as opposed to river fishing so the fish I like to catch don’t tend to stick
around in one place for too long, so as a rule I never use
these devises to find fish, I use them to find features and
then hope fish will be there. The argument is, was that a
fish or a bit of seaweed?

If you see what you think is a fish on the display, by the time
you’ve got your lure or bait to where the fish was on the
screen it’s now in a totally different location. That’s the way
I look at it anyway.

Yes, the units that cost in the region of 3k plus might be

more capable of detecting a fish or a shoal of fish but I’m
not spending that much when there’s really no need.
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I’ve recently purchased the

Lowrance Hook 2 4x with GPS.

£140 all in. Paired with my

phone that has the Navionics
app which I use to plot
coordinates of wrecks and reefs,
that’s all I need.

Use the Navionics app to get to

my coordinates and then use the
Feature Finder to pin point my
marks.

SO, WHERE CAN I FISH WITH AN INFLATABLE BOAT?

Since an inflatable boat acts almost the same way as any other boat, it can go pretty much
anywhere. Lakes, ponds, rivers, inshore and even offshore.

Certain UK rivers require that you have a boat license and insurance but check with local councils for
details.

Most if not all beaches around the UK are free to use.

Just get yourself a SIB and join in the fun.

So, there you have it. That’s the majority of things covered. Obviously, others will have their way
of doing things. This is just my personal look on inflatable boat fishing.

Please comment in the group if you have anything you’d like me to add.

Happy floating and tight lines.