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Natya shastra
Natya shastra
Natyashastra has been a classic on dramatics which has
been commonly attributed to Bharata, the sage for its
authorship. It has been founded on human psychology
prevailing under conditions of India's cultural system
with a focus on stage performance. Rasa theory is at the
centre of the Natyashastra.
In full Bharata Natyashastra, also called Natyasastra,
detailed treatise and handbook on dramatic art that deals
with all aspects of classical Sanskrit theatre. ... Its
primary importance lies in its justification of Indian
drama as a vehicle of religious enlightenment.
The Scope and Importance of NatyaShastra
Main topics of discussion in Natya Shastra are:
1. Origin of mythical theater
2. Construction of stage, auditorium and ceremonies
attached to their construction
3. Choreographic element
4. Costume and make-up
5. Classification and analysis of plays.
2 History of Indian costumes
Natya shastra
Piercing ornaments
[Of these, the ornaments] to be fixed by piercing the
limbs are ear-ornaments such as ear-rings (kuṇḍala).
Tied-up ornaments
And those to be tied-up (bandhanīya) are to be
represented by the girdles (śroṇī-sūtra) and the Aṅgada
(arm-band).
Worn ornaments
The ornaments to be worn (prakṣepya) are the anklets
(nūpura) as well as the wearing apparels.
Put-round ornaments
And those [ornaments] to be put round (āropya) are the
golden neck-chain (hema-sūtra) and necklaces (hāra) of
different kinds.
Ornament according to one’s habitation and tribal origin
There was varieties of ornaments of men and women
according to their habitation and tribal origin.
Ornament for males:
Head ornaments
The crest-jewel (cūḍāmaṇi) and the crown (mukuṭa) are
called ornaments of the head.
6 History of Indian costumes
Natya shastra
Ear ornaments
And the ear-ring (kuṇḍala) Mocaka (ear-pendant) and
ear-top (kīla) are ornaments of the ears.
Neck ornaments
The strings of pearl (muktāvalī) the Harṣaka and the
[gold] thread (sūtra) are ornaments of the neck.
Finger ornaments
And the Kaṭaka and the finger-ring (aṅgulīya-mudra) are
ornaments of the finger.
Ornament of the forearm
The Hastavi and the Valaya are the ornaments of the fore-
arm (bāhu-nālī).
Wrist ornaments
And the bracelet (rucika) and the Cūlikā are ornaments
of the wrist.
Ornaments above the elbow
The Keyūra (armlet) and the the Aṅgada (arm-band) are
ornaments to be worn above the elbow.
Breast ornaments
And the three-stringed necklace (trisara)[ is the ornament
of the breast.
7 History of Indian costumes
Natya shastra
Goddesses
The celestial women are to have lapis lazuli and pearls as
their ornaments, and their dresses are to be made green
like [the colour of] a parrot’s tail.
Monkey females
The women of the godly monkeys are to have topaz and
[sometimes] lapis lazuli as their ornaments, and their
dresses are to be made of blue colour.
This should be the dress of celestial women in their love-
making. But in special conditions their dresses are to be
made white.
Human females according to their countries
But human females are to have dresses and ornaments
according to their places of origin
Making of ornaments
Jewels should be made with thin sheets of mica coloured
with indigo or other plants or seeds, and these should be
mounted on very thin sheets of copper or tin.
The different kinds of crowns of which I spoke before,
should be made dazzling with loosely attached pieces of
mica, so that they may shine like jewels.
In cases of [all] these objects, instructions [for their
making] have not been mentioned in the Śāstras. One
13 History of Indian costumes
Natya shastra