Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
1
THIS WORKBOOK
INCLUDES...
ESSENTIAL TRAINING CHARTS FOR
BOULDERING & SPORT CLIMBING
INTERMEDIATE - ADVANCED
EDITION 2.
2015
2
OVERVIEW
What is Climbing Training Workouts (CTW)?
This document is a reference workbook for climbing training, tracking and cycle
programming, it includes a collection of charts, planners and workouts based in
practical routines employed for a variety of elite climbers. This training program is
adaptable and personalizable to your specific climbing skill needs. The “Training
Worksheets” are made to be carried with you during each one of your sessions,
allowing you to track your progresses in the long term. Regardless if you climb 5.10 or
5.14 This fillable workbook is meant to structure your training regime and push you into
the next level. You must vary the intensity of your exercises and make changes
accordingly, aiming to perform the best you can while avoiding injuries.
3
4
GOALS
● Improvements in overall climbing technique and movement efficiency
● Increase of a movement repertoire
● Improvement of bouldering skills (tactic visualization execution)
● Improvement of lead climbing skills (tactic visualization execution)
● Maximum finger & contact strength
● Maximum arm strength traction & locking off
● Maximum core and body tension
● Maximum power Stamina
● Maximum stamina Endurance
● Improvements in movement precision
5
The Charts
ESSENTIAL PLANNERS
6
EXAMPLE OF HOW TO USE THE CHARTS:
DATE
(Write down the date for your individual session)
FOCUS: Static Strength
(What is the session about)
DURATION: 2.5 hours (total duration from the moment you start warming up)
GOALS: 18 deadhangs, 12 drills on wall, 6 conditioning exercises
(The goals are an inventory of exercises to be performed)
(Explainer)
WARMUP CLIMBING
Easy juggy climbs (check)
FINGERBOARD DEADHANGS
skill: stretched positions (check)
max resistance (1220 secs)
CONDITIONING: BARS
max reps (# of reps)
STATIC STRENGTH SESSION
7
DATE ______________
FOCUS: Static Strength
DURATION: 2.5 hours
GOALS: 15 deadhangs, 12 drills on wall, 6 conditioning exercises
WARMUP CLIMBING
Easy juggy climbs (check)
FINGERBOARD DEADHANGS
Hold 1 (seconds)
Hold 2
Hold 3
Hold 4
Hold 5
STATIC DRILLS IN WALL
skill: crunched positions (check)
max resistance ( 1220 secs)
STATIC DRILLS IN WALL
skill: stretched positions (check)
max resistance (1220 secs)
CONDITIONING: BARS
max reps (# of reps)
8
FINGER POWER CAMPUS SESSION
DATE ______________
FOCUS: Dynamic Strength Contact Strength
DURATION: 2.5 hours
GOALS: 20 campus drills, 12 conditioning exercises
WARM UP CLIMBING: Climb up and down 6 easy boulder problems (about 20% of your max level each).
Easy Juggy Bouldering (check)
CAMPUS TRAINING
Ladders every 2
Single Double Dyno Ladders
Double Double Dyno Ladders
Lock off and Bump Up
High Throws + bump up
Lock Offs and High Reach
Offset Ladders Right
Offset Ladders Left
2 Up Ladders, 1 down
CONDITIONING: FLOOR EXERCISES
max reps 1 min max (check)
CONDITIONING: BARS / CALISTHENICS EXERCISES
max reps 1 min max (check)
9
TECHNICAL MOVEMENT DRILLS SESSION
DATE ______________
FOCUS: Static and Dynamic Strength
DURATION: 2.5 hours
GOALS: 12 wall drills, 6 conditioning exercises
WARMUP CLIMBING
Easy Juggy Climbs (check)
STATIC DRILLS IN WALL
deadhangs and lockoffs (check)
skill: core and contact
max resistance (30 sec)
DYNAMIC DRILLS IN WALL
throws, bumps, reaches (check)
skill: power
max resistance (30 sec)
CONDITIONING: BARS / CALISTHENICS EXERCISES
SET 1: (max reps)
10
BOULDER TOUR SESSION 2 HOUR ROUND
DATE ______________
FOCUS: Technical Strength Bouldering skills
DURATION: 2.5 hours
GOALS: 8 boulders, 12 conditioning exercises
WARMUP CLIMBING (Resting Time: 2 mins)
Easy Juggy Bouldering (check)
BOULDER TOUR SIMULATION 2 hours (Resting Time: 2 mins)
Problem 2
Problem 3
Problem 4
Problem 5
Problem 6
Problem 7
Problem 8
CONDITIONING: FLOOR EXERCISES (Resting Time: 2 mins)
max reps 1 min max (check)
CONDITIONING: BARS / CALISTHENICS EXERCISES (Resting Time: 2 mins)
max reps 1 min max (check)
11
BOULDER COMPETITION FINALS SESSION
DATE ______________
FOCUS: Technical Strength Bouldering skills
DURATION: 2.5 hours
GOALS: 7 boulders, 12 conditioning exercises
WARMUP CLIMBING (Resting Time: 2 mins)
Easy Juggy Bouldering (check)
BOULDER TOUR SIMULATION 5 minutes on 5 minutes off (Resting Time: 2 mins)
Problem 1 (check)
Problem 2
Problem 3
Problem 4
Problem 5
Problem 6
Problem 7
CONDITIONING: FLOOR EXERCISES (Resting Time: 2 mins)
max reps 1 min max (check)
CONDITIONING: BARS / CALISTHENICS EXERCISES (Resting Time: 2 mins)
max reps 1 min max (check)
12
BOULDER TOUR SESSION DOUBLE ROUND
DATE ______________
FOCUS: Bouldering skills Technical Strength Competition Training (
Resting Time: 2 mins)
DURATION: 2.5 hours
GOALS: 8 boulders, 12 conditioning exercises
WARMUP CLIMBING
Easy Juggy Bouldering (check)
BOULDER TOUR SIMULATION ROUND 1 5 minutes on 5 minutes off
Problem 1 (check)
Problem 2
Problem 3
Problem 4
BOULDER TOUR SIMULATION ROUND 2 5 minutes on 5 minutes off
Problem 1 (check)
Problem 2
Problem 3
Problem 4
CONDITIONING: FLOOR EXERCISES
max reps 1 min max (check)
CONDITIONING: BARS / CALISTHENICS EXERCISES
max reps 1 min max (check)
13
POWER AND STAMINA SESSION 150 Moves
DATE ______________
FOCUS: Power Stamina Dynamic Strength Technical Strength
DURATION: 2.5 hours
GOALS: 6 Wall Drills, 8 Circuits, 12 Conditioning Exercises
WARMUP CLIMBING (Resting Time: 2 mins)
Easy Juggy Bouldering (check)
STATIC DRILLS IN WALL (Resting Time: 90 secs)
max resistance (1220 secs) (check)
CIRCUIT TRAINING (Resting Time: 2 mins)
CIRCUIT Continuous Climb (check)
3 min rest
CONDITIONING: FLOOR EXERCISES (Resting Time: 2 mins)
max reps (check)
CONDITIONING: BARS / CALISTHENICS EXERCISES (Resting Time: 2 mins)
max reps (check)
Notes
____________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________
______________
14
40 MOVES MIXED CLIMBING STAMINA AND ENDURANCE SESSION
DATE ______________
FOCUS: Power Stamina Dynamic Strength Technical Strength
DURATION: 2.5 hours
GOALS: 6 Wall Drills, 8 Circuits, 12 Conditioning Exercises
DIRECTIONS: Design 2 40Move Circuit using open feet and set handholds.
Repeat Circuit 1 x 3 times and Circuit 2 x 3 times. Make it hard enough so you fail in the
last 5 moves. You must end up making about 200210 moves in total for the session.
(Resting Time: 2 mins)
Exercise Attempts Time Max Move Reached
Free Climbing 2 Minutes 1 Minutes: _____ (Eg. #35)
Free Climbing 2 Minutes 1 Minutes: _____
40 Moves Circuit 1 1 Minutes: _____
40 Moves Circuit 1 1 Minutes: _____
40 Moves Circuit 1 1 Minutes: _____
40 Moves Circuit 2 1 Minutes: _____
40 Moves Circuit 2 1 Minutes: _____
40 Moves Circuit 2 1 Minutes: _____
40 Moves Circuit 1 1 Minutes: _____
Notes
____________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________
______________
15
240 MOVES STAMINA AND ENDURANCE SESSION
DATE ______________
FOCUS: StaminaEndurance
DURATION: 2.5 hours
GOALS: 6 circuits, 12 conditioning exercises
WARMUP CLIMBING (Resting Time: 2 mins)
Easy Juggy Bouldering
CIRCUIT TRAINING (Resting Time: 2 mins)
CIRCUIT Continuous Climb
3 min rest
CONDITIONING: BARSJUGS / CALISTHENICS EXERCISES (Resting Time: 90 secs)
max reps max 1 minute
CONDITIONING: FLOOR EXERCISES (Resting Time: 90 secs)
max reps
Notes
____________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________
______________
16
300 MOVES STAMINA AND LONG ENDURANCE SESSION
DATE ______________
FOCUS: StaminaEndurance
DURATION: 2.5 hours
GOALS: 6 circuits, 300 moves
WARMUP CLIMBING
Easy Juggy Bouldering
CIRCUIT TRAINING
CIRCUIT Continuous Climb
3 min rest
Notes
____________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________
______________
17
APPENDIX
TRAINING MODULES
18
MOVEMENT DRILLS TRAINING MODULE
DATE ______________
FOCUS: Technical Strength Power
DURATION: 1.5 hours
GOALS: 24 Drills
Directions:
Set up the holds needed to perform each one of the following moves
Try to make the movements as symmetrical as possible so you work both sides of your body (left and right)
Repeat the movements until failure (Max 1 minute) and rest 1.5 minutes
Pulling Up and Reaching
Stepping Up
Throwing/ Deadpointing
Dynoing
Cutting Loose
Locking off
Flagging
Crossing over
Bumping up
Footwork precision
Swinging
Pushing Down manteling
Notes
____________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________
______________
19
SYSTEM BOARD TRAINING MODULE
DATE ______________
FOCUS: Technical Strength Power Stamina
DURATION: 2.5 hours
GOALS: 10 exercises, 4 reps each
Set feet
Any feet Same feet
No feet
One to One Ladders (# of moves)
Ladders every 2
Double Dyno Ladders
High Throws + bump up
Lock Offs and High Reach
Offset Ladders Right
Offset Ladders Left
2 Up Ladders, 1 down
Notes
____________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________
______________
20
TOP 5 BOULDER PROJECTS TRAINING MODULE
DATE ______________
FOCUS: Technical Strength Power Stamina
DURATION: 2.5 hours
GOALS: 5 boulder projects, 4 attempts / day, 10 min each
Boulder project 1 (check)
Boulder project 2
Boulder project 3
Boulder project 4
Boulder project 5
Notes
____________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________
______________
21
SYSTEM WALL FOR STRENGTH TRAINING MODULE
6 Patterns 6 Sets each
DATE ______________
FOCUS: Technical Strength Power Stamina
1) Design 6 different movement patterns on the system wall
2) Use this worksheet to write down the number of moves you complete on each pattern
3) Use this worksheet to keep track of your results on each set
*pattern # Angle Set 1 Set 2 Set 3 Set 4
Pattern 1 15
Pattern 2 25
Pattern 3 35
Pattern 4 45
Notes
____________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________
______________
22
TOP 3 INDOOR ROUTE PROJECTS TRAINING MODULE
DATE ______________
FOCUS: Redpointing Lead Routes
DURATION: 2.5 hours
GOALS: 3 Lead Routes, 4 Sending Attempts Each, 10 takes max
23
TOP 3 ROUTE PROJECTS TRAINING MODULE
DATE ______________
FOCUS: Redpointing Lead Routes
DURATION: 2.5 hours
GOALS: 3 Lead Routes, 4 Sending Attempts Each, 10 takes max
24
TOP REDPOINT PROJECT TRAINING MODULE
DATE ______________
FOCUS: Maximum Performance Strength Power Stamina Endurance Technique
DURATION: 2.5 hours
GOALS: 1 Redpoint Project, 5 Full Sending Attempts Each Day, 4 Days
This is a training module for projecting lead routes, by working on the same sequence over and over again, you will build
the specific technical skills for that climb. You can also employ other training sessions (in between days) for improving
your strength or endurance as needed.
25
CONTACT STRENGTH: SLOPERS
SYSTEM WALL TRAINING MODULE
DATE ______________
FOCUS: Contact Strength, Climbing with slopers
DURATION: 2.5 hours
GOALS: 7 Exercises, 3 Times Each, 21 Sets Total
Directions:
In the system wall, set about 8 climbing patterns using slopers only.
Repeat the patterns 3 times each.
Take note of your results using a timer or by counting moves where applicable.
HOLD TYPES: ANGLE:
SLOPERS 15 25 35 45 other: ______
One by one ladders # # #
Ladders every two # # #
Reach high and bump up # # #
Double throws (Double Dynos) # # #
Swings to side # # #
Lock off and high reach # # #
Notes
____________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________
____________
26
TRAINING HOLD TYPES: SYSTEM WALL TRAINING MODULE
DATE ______________
FOCUS: Contact Strength, Finger Strength
DURATION: 2.5 hours
GOALS: 7 Exercises, 3 Times Each, 21 Sets Total
Directions:
In the system wall, set about 8 climbing patterns using one type of hold only.
Repeat the patterns 3 times each.
Take note of your results using a timer or by counting moves where applicable.
HOLD TYPE(S): ANGLE:
________________ 15 25 35 45 other: ______
One by one ladders # # #
Ladders every two # # #
Reach high and bump up # # #
Double throws (Double Dynos) # # #
Swings to side # # #
Lock off and high reach # # #
Notes
____________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________
____________________________________________________________
____________
27
POWER AND STAMINA SESSION WORKOUT
METHOD: SYSTEM WALL + CIRCUIT TRAINING
DATE ______________
FOCUS: Power Stamina DURATION: 2.5 hours
GOALS: 6 System Wall Sets, 6 Circuit Sets, 6 Conditioning Exercises
WARMUP CLIMBING
STAMINA TRAINING SYSTEM WALL CLIMBING STAMINA TRAINING 25 MOVE CIRCUIT CLIMBING
Patterns / holds Max Laps / Time 25 Move Circuit Moves / Time
Total Laps: ____ Total Time: ____ Total Moves: ____ Total Time: ____
CONDITIONING IN BARS CONDITIONING IN FLOOR
Drills: Set 1 Set 2 Drills max/time
28
POWER AND STAMINA SESSION WORKOUT
DATE ______________
FOCUS: Power Stamina DURATION: 2.5 hours
GOALS: 6 Positions, 6 Circuit Sets, 6 Conditioning Exercises
Easy Boulder Problems
STATIC POSITIONS 3 POINTS OF CONTACT 30 MOVES + BOULDER / CRUX
Position / features 12 Seconds 25 Free Moves + Set Crux Moves / Time
Total Positions: ____ Total Time: Total Moves: ____ Total Time: ____
____
CONDITIONING IN BARS CONDITIONING IN FLOOR (OPTIONAL AT GYM)
Drills: Set 1 Set 2 Drills max/time
29
POWER AND STAMINA SESSION WORKOUT
METHOD: TIMED CLIMBING
DATE ______________
FOCUS: Power Stamina DURATION: 2.5 hours
GOALS: 6 System Wall Sets, 6 Circuit Sets, 6 Conditioning Exercises
WARMUP CLIMBING
STAMINAENDURANCE TRAINING TIMED CLIMBING
3 minutes free climbing no heel hooks, no toe hooks #
3 minutes free climbing boulder start #
3 minutes free climbing boulder finish #
3 minutes free climbing mandatory crux movement #
3 minutes free climbing 10 lock offs #
3 minutes free climbing everything goes #
CONDITIONING IN BARS CONDITIONING IN FLOOR
Drills: Set 1 Set 2 Drills max/time
30
Tracking Performance
The way we can measure our progress and keep track of our
performance gains is by:
1) Tracking the number of moves on each set and duration of the time we
are on the wall.
2) Making comparisons with previous days and writing down the
improvement (extra moves made, extra time made, % added)
3) Writing down the dates we climb and taking notes of our food, water
intake and special events that affected our climbing
TIP:
Always keep a focus in
the way you use your feet
and aim for precision all the
times
31
APPENDIX
TRAINING PROGRAM PLANNERS / DIARIES
32
1 MONTH TRAINING 12 SESSION PLANNER BLANK CHART
Use this worksheet to program your training during a 12 session cycle.
write down the date of your training sessions, duration and focus.
NAME ___________________________
FROM
TO
Session 1
Session 2
Session 3
Session 4
Session 5
Session 6
Session 7
Session 8
Session 9
Session 10
Session 11
Session 12
33
MAXIMUM STRENGTH PROGRAM
1 MONTH TRAINING 12 SESSION PLANNER
Use this worksheet to program your training during a 12 session cycle.
write down the date of your training sessions, duration and focus.
NAME ___________________________
FROM
TO
SESSION DATE SESSION FOCUS:
Session 1
Session 2
Session 3
Session 4
Session 5
Session 6
Session 7
Session 8
Session 9
Session 10
Session 11
Session 12
34
MAXIMUM STRENGTH PROGRAM
2 MONTH TRAINING CYCLE 24 SESSION PLANNER
Use this worksheet to program your training during a 24 session cycle.
Write down the date of your session and the duration of each
FROM TO
SESSION DATE SESSION FOCUS
Session 2 M__D___Y___
Session 3 M__D___Y___
Session 4 M__D___Y___
Session 5 M__D___Y___
Session 6 M__D___Y___
Session 7 M__D___Y___
Session 8 M__D___Y___
Session 9 M__D___Y___
Session 10 M__D___Y___
Session 11 M__D___Y___
Session 12 M__D___Y___
SESSION DATE SESSION FOCUS
Session 13 M__D___Y___
Session 14 M__D___Y___
Session 15 M__D___Y___
Session 16 M__D___Y___
Session 17 M__D___Y___
Session 18 M__D___Y___
Session 19 M__D___Y___
Session 20 M__D___Y___
Session 21 M__D___Y___
Session 22 M__D___Y___
Session 23 M__D___Y___
Session 24 M__D___Y___
35
MAXIMUM STAMINA AND ENDURANCE
1 MONTH TRAINING 12 SESSION PLANNER / DIARY
Use this worksheet to program your training during a 24 session cycle.
Write down the date of your session and the duration of each
FROM TO
SESSION DATE FOCUS
Session 1 M__D___Y___
Session 2 M__D___Y___
Session 3 M__D___Y___
Session 4 M__D___Y___
Session 5 M__D___Y___
Session 6 M__D___Y___
Session 7 M__D___Y___
Session 8 M__D___Y___
Session 9 M__D___Y___
Session 10 M__D___Y___
Session 11 M__D___Y___
Session 12 M__D___Y___
36
MAXIMUM STAMINA AND ENDURANCE
2 MONTH TRAINING 24 SESSION PLANNER
DIRECTIONS: Use this worksheet to program your training during a 24 session cycle.
Write down the date of your session and the duration of each
FROM TO
SESSION DATE FOCUS
Session 1 M__D___Y___
Session 2 M__D___Y___
Session 3 M__D___Y___
Session 4 M__D___Y___
Session 5 M__D___Y___
Session 6 M__D___Y___
Session 7 M__D___Y___
Session 8 M__D___Y___
Session 9 M__D___Y___
Session 10 M__D___Y___
Session 11 M__D___Y___
Session 12 M__D___Y___
Session 13 M__D___Y___
Session 14 M__D___Y___
Session 15 M__D___Y___
Session 16 M__D___Y___
Session 17 M__D___Y___
Session 18 M__D___Y___
Session 19 M__D___Y___
Session 20 M__D___Y___
Session 21 M__D___Y___
Session 22 M__D___Y___
Session 23 M__D___Y___
Session 24 M__D___Y___
37
CLIMBING GOAL SETTER TEMPLATE
6 MONTH PERIOD CLIMBING GOAL SETTING WORKSHEET.
DIRECTIONS:
Use this worksheet to set specific performance oriented goals.
THIS IS A CONTRACT WITH YOURSELF, TAKE IT SERIOUSLY
I ______________ acknowledge all this climbing goals and will focus my training efforts towards them.
All this goals apply for a set period of time: ____ months
All this goals will be revised and tracked weekly.
FROM
TO
38
CLIMBING DRILLS AND MOTION PATTERNS
TECHNICAL STRENGTH MODULE
Directions:
Mark the moments where you feel weak and want to perform better.
Each drill can be considered a 34 movement boulder that you will lap until failure.
Design specific drills and patterns on the bouldering wall or system wall.
Each Drill should be as symmetrical as possible to work both sides of your body.
Movement Skill Description
Deadhanging Ability to hold your body weight in a static position from a single difficult feature
Crimping Ability to hold on crimps
Sticking (slopers) Ability to hold on slopers
Pinching Ability to hold on pinches
Pulling Up Ability to pull up with your arms
Reaching Ability to reach a higher hold statically
Stepping Up Ability to step up with your legs
Throwing/ Deadpointing Ability to throw from one hold into another one with a dynamic motion
Dynoing Ability to dyno and fly from one hold into another out of reach
Body Tension and Core Ability to maintain tension with the full body
Locking off Ability to lock your arms in order to reach a higher hold or clip a quickdraw
Flagging Ability to keep the balance in offset positions
Crossing Ability to make crossing moves
Bumping Ability to make successions of holding movements with the same hand
Footwork precision Ability to stick the footholds, swap footholds and transfer weight onto your feet
Swinging Ability to control swings and cut loose movements with limited footholds
Pushing Down Ability to push down or mantel moves
39
CLIMBING MOVEMENT DRILLS WORKOUT SYSTEM
OBJECTIVE: TECHNICAL STRENGTH AND RESISTANCE
DATE: ___________________
This workout will develop specific movement skills for climbing while strengthening your body.
Each drill on this workout can be considered a 14 movement problem that you will lap until failure.
Repeating each drill until failure to develop maximum resistance in that particular movement.
DIRECTIONS:
1) Select a set of 1015 movement drills PER SESSION
2) Find the set of holds and preferred angles in your climbing facility.
3) Execute the drills until failure (For strenght: 530 Seconds For stamina: 13 minutes).
4) Rest 12 minutes in between or alternate with your partner.
Movement Skill Strength
and Resistance
2 arms Dead Hanging Deadweight Swings to Side high toe hook flips
Total drills made: ______
40
THANK YOU FOR
USING THIS WORKBOOK!
About the author:
David Echeverri is a Rock Climber with 20 years of experience, he has
researched the various methods employed by successful climbers and
published a large amount of climbing recipes in form of this cookbook
climbing workouts. David is also a professional multimedia publisher,
passionate making videos, blogs, websites and other digital
publications.
Contact the author on website:
www.climbingworkouts.com
41