Fabric Finishing

Definition
Any operation (other than preparation and coloring) that improves the
appearance and/or usefulness of fabric after it leaves the loom or
knitting machine.

Terms Used to Categorize Finishes

Chemical
Mechanical
Wet
Dry
Durable
Non-durable
 Chemical Finishes
Resin Finishes (’Permanent Press’?
k Used on cotton or rayon
B. Keeps fabric smooth after washing and drying with little or no
ironing needed

C. Improves shrinkage control

D. Reduces fabric strength
E. May have odor problem
F. All resins contain formaldehyde

II. So-fieners
k Generally used with resins to improve the way the fabric feels
B. May cause fastness problems
C. May cause yellowing or odor problems

&
I Soil Release Finishes
A. Used extensively on carpets and upholstery fabrics
B. Also used on apparel fabrics, especially those
containing polyester

C. Very durable if applied at the finishing plant; little durability

if applied by the consumer
 I

A. Three main types:

1. Wax finish
2. Silicone finish
3. Fluorhefinish

-
V. FZame Retardant
k Very important finish, especially for children’s sleepwear
B. Can be accomplished by using special fiber types or by applying
special chemical finishes

16-4 FabticFlninshing
 Mechanical Finishing
Heatsetting
A. Using high temperatures to stabilize fabrics containing
polyester, nylon, or triacetate
B. Not effective on cotton or rayon
C. May be performed in fabric form or garment form
D. May cause shade variation from side-to-side if done prior to
dyeing; may change the shade if done after dyeing

Raising
k Twomaintypes
1. Napping
a. Using wire-covered rolls to "dig out" individual fiber ends
to the surface
2. Sueding
a. Using abrasive-covered rolls (sandpaper, emery cloth, etc.)
-
to produce shorter pile surface does cause an apparent
shade change
b. Special type of raised surface fabric is corduroy

III. Shearing
A. Use of rotary blade(s) to trim raised surfaces, particularly
napped fabrics, to a uniform height

B. This reduces the tendency of the fabric surface to mat and also
reduces the pilling tendency

C. Special types of blades and conveyer belts can produce pattern

-- effects on the surface
Other Mechanical Finishes
k Calendering
B. Decating
C. Sanforizing ("CompressiveShrinkage")
 REFERENCE BOOK LIST FOR TEXTILES

1. Joseph’s Introductory Textile Science - Sixth Edition, Peyton Hudson, Anne

Clapp, and Dianne Kness; Harcourt, Brace and Jovanovich, 1993. Available
from NCSU Bookstores (919-515-2161). Approximately $48 hardbound.

2. Dictionaw of Fiber & Textile Technology ,Hoechst Celanese 1978. Available

from Hoechst Celanese (704-554-3081). Approximately $7 softbound.

3. Weaving: Conversion of Yarn to Fabric, P. R. Lord and M. H. Mohammed;

Merrow Technical Library, 1973. Available from NCSU Bookstores (919-
515-2161). Approximately $40 softbound.

4. Knitting- Technology, David Spencer; Pergammon Press, 1991. Available from

NCSU Bookstores (919-515-2161). Approximately $40 softbound.

5. The Dyeing of Cellulosic Fibres, Cliff Preston, Dyers’ Company Publications

Trust, 1986. Available from AATCC (919-549-8141). Approximately $50
softbound.

6. Basics of Dyeing and Finishing; Includes Dyeing Primer, 1993. Available from
AATCC (919-549-8141). Approximately $45 softbound.

7. Guide to Apparel Manufacturing, Peyton Hudson, 1989. Available from

--
NCSU Bookstores (919-515-2161). Approximately $48 softbound.
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