Marks & Spencer Guide Line PDF

VERSION 2.
0 MARKS & SPENCER MAY 2013
ECP
Module 1: RSL
Restricted Substance List
VERSION 2.0
MAY 2013
ENVIRONMENTAL & CHEMICAL POLICY FOR TEXTILE PROCESSING

VERSION 2.0 MARKS & SPENCER MAY 2013
CONTENTS
Introduction ............................................................................................................................... 3
Restricted Substances List ...................................................................................................... 4
Dye and Chemical Selection – Avoidance of non-compliance .............................................. 9
Appendix 1 .............................................................................................................................. 10
Appendix 2 .............................................................................................................................. 11
Appendix 3 .............................................................................................................................. 12
Appendix 4 .............................................................................................................................. 13
Appendix 5 .............................................................................................................................. 14
Appendix 6 .............................................................................................................................. 15
Appendix 7 .............................................................................................................................. 16
Appendix 8 .............................................................................................................................. 16
MODULE 1 ENVIRONMENTAL & CHEMICAL POLICY FOR TEXTILE PROCESSING Page 2 of 17

INTRODUCTION
Marks & Spencer launched its first Restricted Substances List (RSL) in the late 1990’s – the first major
UK retailer to do so. The current edition of the RSL is a mandatory requirement of our Garment Makers’
Terms & Conditions.
Details are provided of the chemical, its risk, acceptable levels of presence in the finished product, and
preferred test method for identification and quantity present.
A suitably qualified member of each Garment Maker’s management team should take responsibility to
ensure that all chemicals deliberately applied by the Wet Processor to products contracted for M&S
conform to this list, and the stated performance standards.
Wet Processors should ensure that their own chemical, dyestuff, print and laundry chemical suppliers are
clear about our requirements, and can supply proof of compliance in relation to deliveries. Wet
Processors should check the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) against the RSL requirements for each
product used to assist in the selection of chemicals which will ensure compliance with the RSL.
To ensure ongoing compliance with this RSL, Marks & Spencer carries out random unannounced Due
Diligence testing of product in our Stores. If any product is found to be non-compliant with the RSL, there
is a fine chargeable to the Garment Maker (see T&Cs), which may be passed on to the Wet Processor.
We reserve the right to RTM the product at the supplier’s cost. In cases where non compliance leads to a
Product Recall, associated responsibilities or charges will be applied to the Garment Maker.
We expect that suppliers will carry out Due Diligence Testing to ensure compliance with the Restricted
Substances List, and to ensure that their upstream suppliers also carry out Due Diligence Testing as
appropriate. Please refer to the Due Diligence section of the M&S Supplier Exchange website.
http://supplierexchange.marksandspencer.com
There are many thousands of chemicals that are not mentioned in the RSL that are known to be
harmful to humans or the environment. They are not mentioned because there is little chance
they would ever be used on the type of products we sell. However, we do not expect any harmful
chemicals to be present in our products. Marks and Spencer will continue to promote the
minimisation of harmful chemicals in our products and the responsible use of safer technology.

RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LIST

What M&S What is the Maximum
Why is it ‘Practical’ Test method
products are origin of the Supply base limit on
Chemical banned or Retail legal status Limit of (preferred
most likely to controlled legal status finished
restricted? Detection method)
be affected? chemical? product
REACH - the use of products or preparations containing SVHCs (Substances of Very High Concern) as listed on the current edition of REACH is not permitted by Marks & Spencer where viable
alternatives are available. M&S must be notified of the presence of any SVHCs in product at the time of contract, these must be less than 0.1% W/W. See Module 2 – REACH for further details.
Sale of products
Banned amines
containing > 30 ppm is
Banned Azo dyes listed in appendix 1 Use of products Textiles:
Dyes can split to illegal
and pigments Examples of dyes containing > 30 EN 14362:2012
All fibre types form carcinogenic Regulation No 1907/2006 20 ppm 5 ppm
that can form such ppm is illegal Leather :CEN
No deliberate use amines of the European
amines listed in ISO/TS 17234:2003
Parliament and of the
appendix 2
Council
WARNING: Azo CI Pigment Orange 13 and CI Pigment Orange 34, when used in combination with CI Pigment Black 7, can release the banned aromatic amine 3,3’ – dichlorobenzidine.
pigments Do not use these pigments in combination.
Skin Sensitising Polyester, Once sensitised

20 ppm
Disperse Dyes Acetate, and Disperse Dyes listed to a dye, people No Legal
No Legal restriction 5 ppm DIN 54231:2005-11
disperse-dyed in appendix 3 can react violently restriction
No deliberate use nylon to trace quantities
Alkyl phenol
ethoxylates In widespread use Endocrine Use of
500 ppm combined
(APEO's, as detergents, disruptors (sex formulations
Regulation 1907/2006 total of NPEO and
including NPEO All fibre types Wetting agents, and change containing over 100 ppm
(EU) Annex XVII OPEO Solvent Extraction
and OPEO) as emulsifying chemicals) for 0.1% of NPEO is
GCMS/LCMS
agents aquatic species illegal in Europe
No deliberate use
APEO technical
Refer to Module 6 of the Environmental & Chemical Policy for Textile Processing
notes
Textiles: Solvent
Preservative for
Tributyl tin is 0.5 ppm TBT, TPT extraction + GC-MS
Organo tin fabrics and chemical Use is effectively
highly toxic, and (in extract) (ISO 17353:2005-11
compounds formulations. Commission Decision prohibited via
All fibre types related products 1ppm DBT, DOT 0.05 ppm or in-house
Occasionally used 2009/425/EC water authority
No deliberate use have toxicity and MBT (in methods)
as stabilizers and regulations
issues extract) Leather: SATRA
catalysts
TM277


Chlorinated
Phenols Preservative for No formulations Textiles: LMBG
Use is effectively 1ppm total of PCP
cotton and viscose. containing over 0.1% can B82.02.8 Analysed
Including PCP Cotton, prohibited via plus TeCP
Main risk is on Highly Toxic be placed on the market 0.05ppm on GC-ECD
and derivatives, Viscose water authority
imported greige in Europe (Commission Leather: EN TS
TeCP regulations Leather 0.5ppm
fabrics Regulation EC 552/2009) 14494:2003
No deliberate use
Any appropriate
Caustic soda that is Use is effectively technique e.g.
Mercury Could be governed by
made by the prohibited via Combustion
Cotton Highly toxic biocidal substances 0.02 ppm 0.01 ppb
No deliberate use 'mercury cell water authority amalgamation with
directive
process' regulations cold vapour
detection
Mothproofing: Commonest
Permethrin & Use is effectively
Wool, chemical is Nerve agent, and
Analogues of prohibited via Contamination Solvent extraction +
(Cashmere, permethrin - found toxic to aquatic No Legal restriction 1 ppm
these water authority limit 10ppm GCMS/LCMS
Angora) on wool and species
regulations
No deliberate use cashmere
Formulations
Water-repellent ‘8-
Articles should not containing more
chain’ fluorocarbon Proven health
PFOS contain more than 1 than 50mg/kg 1 µg/m2
finishes based on risks, and Solvent extraction +
All fibre types ug/m2 of PFOS (0.005%) cannot 1 ppm
No deliberate use electrofluorination persistent in the GCMS/LC-MS
(Commission Regulation be placed on the
(old generation environment
EC 552/2009) market (EC
products)
552/2009)
Persistent in the 1 µg/m2

PFOA Water-repellent
environment and No Legal Solvent extraction +
All fibre types finishes based on No Legal restriction 1ppm
No deliberate use suspected health restriction GCMS/LC-MS
telemerisation
risks
PFC notes Refer to the latest version of the M&S PFC Policy for the timeline for the reduction and elimination of PFCs.
Dye Carriers Used to dye Various 1 ppm total

polyester and blends depending on for halogenated
Including Some chemical
at low temperatures type of carrier - aromatic Solvent extraction +
Chlorobenzenes, Polyester No Legal restriction types are 1 ppm
in machinery not generally toxic, hydrocarbons, GC-MS
BPP and OPP prohibited
capable of being irritants or biphenyl or ortho
No deliberate use pressurised carcinogens phenyl phenol


Chromium Large scale use is
Wool, Highly toxic / No Legal restriction – new 3 ppm
Chromium VI compounds used in effectively Textiles and
(Cashmere, carcinogenic both German legislation
2-stage 'after- prohibited via Leather EN ISO 17075:2007
Consent Required Angora) to humans and banning use in leather EN ISO
chrome' wool water authority 3ppm
Leather aquatic species above limit of detection 17075:2007
dyeing regulations
Organic solvents
Organic solvents GCMS / Head
listed in Appendix 5.
Panel Printed Limit of detection Varies Space for volatile
Including Used in some Various Some solvents
or solvent- Some solvents are according to solvents.
chlorinated adhesives, print depending on are banned - e.g.
scoured restricted 1 ppm chemical Solvent extraction
solvents formulations, solvent type of solvent carcinogens
fabrics type GCMS for semi-
Consent Required scouring and spot
volatile solvents
cleaning
Where solvents are used suppliers should always work to change to water based alternatives. Where this is not possible e.g. dry pigment discharge printing there must be
adequate extraction of fumes, good ventilation, and workers must be provided with appropriate Personal Protective Equipment. Solvents are permitted for scouring greige, but
Organic solvent these must be in fully enclosed zero emission systems. No residual solvent is permitted on any finished product.
technical notes
Trichloroethylene is classified as a carcinogen (REACH article 57a). It can be found in preparations for spot cleaning, and the MSDS may quote one of many synonyms used
for trichloroethylene. Do not use the product if it has the CAS number 79-01-6. Alternative preparations for spot cleaning ,eg citrus- or water-based products are recommended
Biocidal Finishes Some chemical
types are
Consent Required
restricted by
Toxic Varies
Not permitted in Some chemical types are water authorities Limit of detection Analytical – Solvent
Deliberate Can cause severe according to
Childrenswear All fibre types restricted e.g. – all biocides unless agreed in extraction (test lab
application on skin irritation e.g. type. Report
unless by consent Leather DMFu is banned in EU have to be writing by own method)
fabrics DMFu (see result as
and UK registered under technologist followed by GC-MS
below) ppm
Triclosan is not the biocides
permitted for use in directive –
any M&S products 98/8/EC
Biocidal finish Deliberately applied biocidal finishes to impart customer benefit must be permanent, non-leaching, and work only on the fabric and not on customers’ skin, and must not be
notes implicated in antibiotic resistance. Biocidal finishes should not be confused with odour absorbers such as cyclodextrins.
DMFu – dimethyl
fumarate Leather for Silica gel sachets
Causes severe
furniture, which also contain EU Decision
Not permitted for irritation when in EU Decision banning its 0.1 mg/kg in Solvent extraction
footwear, or banned DMFu to banning its use 0.1 mg/kg
use in any M&S human skin use 2009/251/EC products followed by GC-MS
accessories stop mould growth in 2009/251/EC
products contact
etc. transit


Flame retardants Depends on exact Legal restrictions 5ppm for penta-,
Legal restrictions for
Deliberate chemistry - Toxic, for penta and octa hexa- and octa -
Consent Required penta and octa BDE of Solvent extraction +
Cotton application on not biodegradable BDE of 0.1% (EC brominated 5 ppm
0.1% (EC Regulation GC-MS or LC-MS
Not permitted in fabrics and suspected Regulation biphenyl ethers,
552/2009)
Childrenswear health risks 552/2009) PCB’s and PCT’s
Flame retardant finishes should only be applied where there is a legislative need with written consent from M&S. Penta, Hexa and Octa –brominated types must not be
Flame retardant
deliberately applied and must not be present above 5 ppm. Suppliers using deca brominated types should follow VECAP best practice -
notes
http://www.bsef.com/product_stew/vecap/
Phthalates PVC containing
Suspected sex 6 phthalates now illegal in DBP, DEHP,BBP, 1000 ppm
(as softener for PVC mock
Used to soften rigid change chemicals children’s clothing and DINP,DIDP,DOP combined total of Solvent extraction +
eg PVC) leather and 100 ppm
PVC /suspected toys in Europe Directive are banned in the 6 legislated GCMS
plastisol prints
Not permitted in carcinogen 2005/84/EC REACH directive phthalates
Children’s clothing above set limits
It is essential that all suppliers who are using PVC based products familiarise themselves with, and comply with the current M&S PVC policy. DEHP, DBP and BBP are
Phthalate and SVHCs, and are banned above 1000ppm in all childcare articles and toys. DINP, DIDP and DOP are banned above 1000ppm in articles that are intended for children under 36
PVC notes months and can be mouthed. Another phthalate has been notified on the REACH SVHC list – Diisobutyl phthalate (cas 84-69-5) is an SVHC but not on toy legislation, but
should be avoided
Formaldehyde Most commonly Known irritant to
Textiles: BS EN ISO
found in resinated skin and mucous Controls on
Not permitted in Resinated Free 75ppm 14184:2011 Parts 1
products (and in membranes workplace Less than 20
Children’s Cotton and No Legal restriction Released 300ppm and 2.
lower levels in fixing Reclassified as airborne ppm
underwear or any Viscose Baby wear 20ppm Leather: EN ISO TS
agents for cotton carcinogen by quantities
baby wear 17226 HPLC
and nylon) WHO
Pesticides / Pesticides and
Insecticides Insecticides listed in
Wool (and Appendix 4. Selected chemicals are Total 0.5ppm for
Strict controls on Analytical – HPLC or
lower levels on Used to protect Toxic banned under POP wool Total 0.05 ppm
effluent GCMS
cotton) sheep and cotton convention 0.05ppm for cotton
crops from parasite
No deliberate use infestation.
Childrenswear and
direct skin contact
Acidity or alkalinity Extreme values
pH of Textiles All fibre types. No Legal pH 4.0 – 7.5
arising from the final can cause skin No Legal restriction - -
and Leather Leather restriction No direct skin
process irritation
contact
pH 4.0 – 8.5


The figures contained in this document refer to M&S acceptable limits of heavy metals on finished textiles. There is specific legislation relating to specific metals in all end uses
(e.g. Cadmium Directive) and also legislation for metals in toys (EN71). Please note that acceptable limits in EN71 are significantly higher than for M&S textiles - the standards
Metals in Textiles
in this ECP document apply to M&S textile based toys. Metal is used as an integral part of some dye chromophores to impart technical performance. Where metal-free dyes
Technical Notes
will meet M&S performance requirements these should be used as the preferred option. In addition to these textile standards, M&S have specific policies and standards
relating to metal in componentry (see Nickel Policy and Childrenswear Safety Manual)
Artificial Sweat
Pigments, Dyes, EN 71 + Cadmium Strict controls on
Cadmium Various Toxic 0.1 ppm 0.03 ppm extraction ICP (Total:
Fibres, Alloys directive effluent
BS EN 1122)
Green and turquoise EN 71 + see nickel policy Strict controls on Artificial Sweat
Nickel Various Allergenic 4 ppm 1 ppm
dyes there is a nickel directive effluent extraction ICP
Fibres, flame Strict controls on Artificial Sweat
Antimony Various Toxic EN 71 30 ppm 30 ppm
retardants effluent extraction ICP
Pigments / water Strict controls on Artificial Sweat
Lead Various Toxic EN 71 1 ppm 0.3 ppm
pipes effluent extraction ICP
Strict controls on Adults: 50ppm
Copper Various - Toxic None 0.3 ppm -
effluent Infants: 25ppm
Strict controls on Adults: 2 ppm
Chromium Various - Toxic - 0.3 ppm -
effluent Infants: 1 ppm
Other Heavy Strict controls on Artificial Sweat
Various Various Toxic EN 71 1ppm 0.3 ppm
Metals effluent extraction ICP
Short Chained Used in flame REACH Annex
Chlorinated retardants, Europe – Regulation XV11 No. 42
Paraffins Leather,
plasticisers, Toxic to aquatic 552/2009 Solvent extraction +
Natural and 100ppm 100 ppm
adhesives. Fat organisms REACH Annex XV11 Restriction on GCMS
Coated
(SCCP) liquoring agent in No. 42 preparations
No deliberate use leather processing. containing >1.0%
Chlorine based No Legal

Toxic in high
restriction. May
bleach concentrations. Use chlorine-free
Deliberate form AOX in
Cotton Concerns over No Legal restriction bleach where N/A -
application effluent, and
Sodium Chlorite AOX formation in practicable
these are
is not permitted effluent
controlled.
Chlorine The use of alternative bleaching systems based on, eg hydrogen peroxide are recommended. The use of sodium chlorite in particular is prohibited by M&S. See Appendix 8
Technical notes for further notes on best practice processing.

DYE AND CHEMICAL SELECTION – AVOIDANCE OF NON-

COMPLIANCE
With the exception of some contaminants that are brought in on raw materials most chemical safety and
environmental issues are caused by the dyes and chemicals that are deliberately used for the
manufacture of products.
Dyehouses, printers, finishers, laundries and tanneries must take care to select products that do not harm
textile workers, the environment or Marks & Spencer customers.
Earlier versions of our chemical policy specified ETAD (Ecological and Toxicological Association of Dyes
and Organic Pigments Manufacturers www.etad.com) as recommended to ensure compliance with our
policy. We no longer require membership of this organisation to supply dyes, chemicals, or print inks, but
it is our preference that products sourced from ETAD members are used.
It is mandatory that any supplier of dye, chemical, or print chemical fully complies with the Marks
& Spencer RSL, and any related REACH requirements. Membership or listing on a third party
organisation will not be taken as approval to use the supplier’s product.
Compliant dyes and chemicals – Products selected from the following lists will not give rise to non-
compliance if applied appropriately.
 Dystar - owned by Kiri Chemicals (India) from 2010 - dyes and pigment formulations in brochure
format or at www.dystar.com.
 Huntsman Textile Effects - www.huntsman.com
 Clariant dyes and chemicals at www.clariant.com.
 CHT/Bezema Chemicals at www.cht-group.com.
 Magna print and speciality chemicals at www.magnacolours.com
 BASF chemicals at www.basf.com
 Rudolf chemicals at www.rudolf.de
The following Appendices (1, 2 & 3) highlight the dyestuffs that are BANNED for use in Marks & Spencer
products. These chemicals must NOT be used for Marks & Spencer production. If any product is found to
be non-compliant with the RSL, there is a fine chargeable to the Garment Maker (see T&Cs), which may
be passed on to the Wet Processor.
Childrenswear Panel Prints – see Appendix 7

The following companies’ ranges of panel printing chemicals comply with our general requirements for
chemicals and the more stringent Childrenswear standards of PVC-free and Phthalate-free. It is strongly
recommended that products utilising new technology from these companies are used to minimise the risk
of non-conformance.
 Magna
 Print Kimya
 Zydex
 CHT

APPENDIX 1
BANNED Aromatic Amines Specified in EC 2002/61
TEST METHOD EN 14362:2012 USED TO DETECT BANNED AMINES (1-21 ON THIS LIST).
If aniline, or 1,4 – phenylenediamine is detected, see amine number 22 (below) for special test method
CAS Number Index Number EC Number Substances

1 92-67-1 612-072-00-6 202-177-1 4-aminobiphenyl
2 92-87-5 612-042-00-2 202-199-1 Benzidine
3 95-69-2 612-196-00-0 202-441-6 4-chloro-o-toluidine
4 91-59-8 612-022-00-3 202-080-4 2-naphthylamine
5 97-56-3 611-006-00-3 202-591-2 o-aminoazotoluene
6 99-55-8 612-210-00-5 202-765-8 5-nitro-o-toluidine
7 106-47-8 612-137-00-9 203-401-0 4-chloroaniline
8 615-05-4 612-200-00-0 210-406-1 2,4-diaminoanisole
9 101-77-9 612-051-00-1 202-974-4 4,4’-diaminodiphenylmethane
10 91-94-1 612-068-00-4 202-109-0 3,3’-dichlorobenzidine
11 119-90-4 612-036-00-X 204-355-4 3,3’-dimethoxybenzidine
12 119-93-7 612-041-00-7 204-358-0 3,3’-dimethylbenzidine
13 838-88-0 612-085-00-7 212-658-8 4,4’-methylenedi-o-toluidine
14 120-71-8 612-209-00-X 204-419-1 p-cresidine
15 101-14-4 612-078-00-9 202-918-9 4,4’-methylene-bis-(2-chloro-aniline)
16 101-80-4 612-199-00-7 202-977-0 4,4’-oxydianiline
17 139-65-1 612-198-00-1 205-370-9 4,4’-thiodianiline
18 95-53-4 612-091-00-X 202-429-0 o-toluidine 2-aminotoluene
19 95-80-7 612-099-00-3 202-453-1 4-methyl-m-phenylenediamine
20 137-17-7 612-197-00-6 205-282-0 2,4,5-trimethylaniline
21 90-04-0 612-035-00-4 201-963-1 o-anisidine 2-methox aniline
22 60-09-3 611-008-00-4 200-453-6 p-aminoazobenzene
German Test No. 64 LFGB B82.02-9 September 2006 may
be used to detect presence of Amine 22. If 4-amino
azobenzine (para amino benzene) is detected: <20PPM =
PASS, >20PPM = FAIL
23 95-68-1 - 202-440-0 2,4-xylidine
24 87-62-1 612-161-00-X 201-758-7 2,6-xylidine

APPENDIX 2
Examples of Dyes which Potentially Cleave to form BANNED Aromatic
Amines (listed in Appendix 1) under reducing conditions
CI Acid Orange 45 22195 Direct Red 21 23560 Direct Blue 173

CI Acid Red 24 16140 Direct Red 22 23565 Direct Blue 192
CI Acid Red 85 22245 Direct Red 28 22120 Direct Blue 201
CI Acid Red 114 23635 Direct Red 37 22240 Direct Blue 215 24115
CI Acid Red 115 27200 Direct Red 39 23630 Direct Blue 295 23820
CI Acid Red 128 24125 Direct Red 44 22500 Direct Green 1 30280
CI Acid Red 167 Direct Red 67 23505 Direct Green 8.1
CI Acid Black 29 Direct Violet 1 22570 Direct Brown 1 30045
CI Acid Black 209 Direct Violet 12 22550 Direct Brown 1:2 30110
Azoic Diazo Component 12 37105 Direct Violet 21 23520 Direct Brown 2 22311
Basic Brown 4 (= Solvent Brown 12) 21010 Direct Violet 22 22480 Direct Brown 6 30140
Developer 14 (=Oxidation Base 20) 76035 Direct Blue 1 24410 Direct Brown 25 36030
Direct Yellow 1 22250 Direct Blue 2 22590 Direct Brown 27 31725
Direct Orange 1 22370 Direct Blue 8 24140 Direct Brown 51 31710
Direct Red 1 22310 Direct Blue 25 23790 Direct Brown 222 30368
Direct Red 2 23500 Direct Blue 35 24145 Direct Black 4 30245
Direct Red 13 22155 Direct Blue 160 Direct Black 154
Direct Red 17 22150

APPENDIX 3
BANNED Dyestuffs implicated in Contact Dermatitis by Consumers, which
include:
CI Disperse Blue 1
CI Disperse Blue 3
CI Disperse Blue 7
CI Disperse Blue 26
CI Disperse Blue 35
CI Disperse Blue 102
CI Disperse Yellow 1
CI Disperse Orange 1
CI Disperse Red 1
CI Disperse Red 11
CI Disperse Red 17
CI Disperse Brown 1

APPENDIX 4
Pesticides / Insecticides include the following;
Cotton and Natural Cellulosic Fabrics Wool and Other Keratin Fabrics
& Blends of these with Other Fibres & Blends of these with Other Fibres
Max Limits for each Product Listed 0.05ppm The Sum Total should Not Exceed 0.5ppm
Aldrin Alpha-Hexachlorocyclohexane
Captafol Beta- Hexachlorocyclohexane
Chlordane Gamma- Hexachlorocyclohexane
DDT Lindane
Dieldrin Aldrin
Endrin Endrin
Heptachlor Dieldrin
Hexachlorobenzene DDT
Hexachlorocyclohexane (total Isomers) DDD
2,4,5-T(richlorophenoxyacetic acid) Propetamphos
2,4-D(ichlorophenoxyacetic acid) Diazinon
Chlordimeform Dichlofenthion
Chlorobenzilate Fenchlorphos
Dinoseb (and its salts) Chlorfenvionphos
Monocrotophos Cyhalothrin
Cypermethrin
Deltamethrin
Fenvalerate

APPENDIX 5
Depending on their type, organic solvents may be legally restricted e.g as
carcinogens. No residual solvent is permitted on any finished product.
Organic solvents include the following but is not limited to:
Solvent CAS Number

Benzene 71-43-2
Phenol 108-95-2
Cresol (and isomers) 1319-77-3
Toluene 108-88-3
Xylene (and isomers) 1330-20-7
Dimethyl formamide (DMF) 68-12-2
Methyl ethyl ketone 78-93-3
Bromodichloromethane 75-27-4
Bromoform 75-25-2
Tetrachloromethane (Carbon tetrachloride) 56-23-5
Chlorodibromemethane 124-48-1
Chloroethane 75-00-3
Chloroform 67-66-3
Dibromomethane 74-95-3
1,1-Dichloroethane 75-34-3
1,2-Dichloroethane 107-06-2
1,1-Dichloroethene 75-35-4
cis-1,2-Dichloroethene 159-59-2
trans-1,2-Dichloroethene 156-60-5
trans-1,3-Dichloropropene 10061-02-6
Dichloromethane 75-09-2
1,1,2,2-Tetrachloroethane 79-34-5
1,1,1-Trichloroethane 71-55-6
Tetrachloroethene (Tetrachloroethylene) 127-18-4
Trichloroethene (Trichloroethylene) 79-01-6
Vinyl chloride 75-01-4
Hexachloroethane 87-68-3

APPENDIX 6
Chemical testing notes
General Remarks
Chemicals can be detected in amounts that fall into 3 categories:

 Background levels – amounts found in nature
 Contamination – low levels present
 Deliberate application – higher levels present through deliberate application
There are two broad types of test:
 Qualitative – tells you something is definitely there in high, medium or low amounts.
 Quantitative – tells you exactly how much there is.
For any test there will be a ’limit of detection’ below which a chemical cannot be detected. (Where
methods use solvent extraction the limits of detection and permissible levels may refer to the extract
and not the test fabric/component – see chemicals on product table).
In some instances the M&S ‘Acceptable limit’ refers to the acceptable limit in the solvent extract and not
the total amount on the fabric under test.
Testing Requirements
All tests must be conducted in UKAS accredited laboratories or those that operate a mutual recognition
scheme (e.g. HOKLAS, COFRAC).
Certain laboratories will carry out screening tests for families of similar chemicals before doing specific
targeted quantitative tests. A negative screening test result from an accredited laboratory is normally
sufficient, and no further testing is required.
Chemical tests from non-accredited laboratories may need to be re-tested and will at best be
submissable as qualitative evidence only.
Approved Global Test House Organisations For RSL And REACH Chemical Testing
UK/EU/TURKEY REGION
Intertek, SGS, STR
INDIA/SRI LANKA/BANGLADESH REGION

Intertek, SGS, STR, Texanlab
CHINA/HK, FAR EAST REGION

Intertek, SGS, STR

APPENDIX 7
Childrenswear : Clarification of Chemical Restrictions
The following extra restrictions apply to Childrenswear merchandise:
 Formaldehyde – deliberate use of Formaldehyde containing products not permitted in underwear

or babywear.
 PVC and Phthalates – not permitted
 Biocidal finishes – not permitted unless by consent.
 Flame Retardant finishes – not permitted.
All product must comply with EN71 (relevant parts), however the levels specified in this legislation for
certain chemicals is much higher than would reasonably be expected in textile production therefore the
permitted levels for Marks & Spencer production are those detailed in the table on pages 4-8 and not
those in the legislation.
APPENDIX 8
Best Practice Notes for Areas Unrestricted by Legislation
Product yellowing – is often the effect of phenolic yellowing, which is caused by the reaction of phenolic
compounds on the material with oxides of nitrogen under alkaline conditions.
Best practice to prevent phenolic yellowing is to avoid exposure of the material to gas-fired equipment, eg
gas-fired tumble dryers, stenters and factory heating systems. The use of electric fork-lift trucks is
recommended, and the material should not be stored near loading bay areas where it may be exposed to
diesel fumes.
Packaging should be free from Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT), and cardboard packaging should be
lined to prevent direct contact of the material to lignin in the cardboard, which can cause yellowing.
The final pH of whites and pale shades should be slightly acid (5.5 – 6.5) using a buffering chemical such
as citric acid. This is particularly important with cotton, which tends to retain the alkali predominant in its
processing.
For further information, refer to the Marks & Spencer guidelines for yellowing on the M&S Supplier
Exchange: http://supplierexchange.marksandspencer.com
Sequestering agents – are used as chelating agents to remove metallic ions such as magnesium and
calcium from water if greater softness is required for a particular process. Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
(EDTA) and phosphonates have been used widely, but they are non-biodegradable. There are concerns
that, once they enter river systems, these chelants can extract heavy metals from sediment. This
remobilizes these metals in the environment, which may have adverse long-term effects.

Best practice is to use alternative sequestering agents such as ethylenediaminedisuccinicacid (EDDS),

which are readily biodegradable.
Mould – may develop on the product during storage or transportation. Inhaled fungal spores may lead to
allergy or asthma. Mould will develop on textiles or leather under warm and humid conditions, and some
species of mould only require 24 hours to begin to grow.
Best practice is to ensure that the goods are dry before packing prior to storage or transportation,
especially if one of the final operations is a steaming process.
For further information, refer to the Marks & Spencer guidelines for Mould on the M&S Supplier
Exchange: http://supplierexchange.marksandspencer.com
Chlorine: bleaching – used mainly for cotton. Chlorine is toxic in high concentrations, and its use may
lead to the presence of AOX pollutants (eg dioxins) in effluent. The use of alternative bleaching systems
for cellulosics based on, eg hydrogen peroxide, are recommended. The use of sodium chlorite in
particular is prohibited by M&S.
Chlorine: wool shrink - resisting – used in wool processing to provide a base stable to either domestic
laundering or to further processing of the substrate. For the shrink-resisting of certain wool qualities,
chlorination processes may be used under the safety guidelines of the relevant MSDS. Where
practicable, alternative processes based on, eg permonosulphuric acid, are recommended.
Potassium permanganate – used in denim processing as a local bleaching agent, often in spray form. It
is toxic to workers. Use permanganate –free process wherever practicable. If permanganate is used –
ensure PPE is worn and finished garments are free from residues.
Potassium permanganate is also used as part of a wool shrink-resisting process. Ensure that PPE is worn
and the chemical handled according to the MSDS.

Marks & Spencer Guide Line PDF

Încărcat de

Informații document

Titlu original

Drepturi de autor

Formate disponibile

Partajați acest document

Partajați sau inserați document

Opțiuni de partajare

Vi se pare util acest document?

Este necorespunzător acest conținut?

Drepturi de autor:

Formate disponibile

Marks & Spencer Guide Line PDF

Încărcat de

Drepturi de autor:

Formate disponibile

VERSION 2.

0 MARKS & SPENCER MAY 2013

ENVIRONMENTAL & CHEMICAL POLICY FOR TEXTILE PROCESSING

MODULE 1 ENVIRONMENTAL & CHEMICAL POLICY FOR TEXTILE PROCESSING Page 2 of 17

MODULE 1 ENVIRONMENTAL & CHEMICAL POLICY FOR TEXTILE PROCESSING Page 3 of 17

RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LIST

Skin Sensitising Polyester, Once sensitised

MODULE 1 ENVIRONMENTAL & CHEMICAL POLICY FOR TEXTILE PROCESSING Page 4 of 17

What M&S What is the Maximum

Persistent in the 1 µg/m2

Dye Carriers Used to dye Various 1 ppm total

MODULE 1 ENVIRONMENTAL & CHEMICAL POLICY FOR TEXTILE PROCESSING Page 5 of 17

What M&S What is the Maximum

MODULE 1 ENVIRONMENTAL & CHEMICAL POLICY FOR TEXTILE PROCESSING Page 6 of 17

What M&S What is the Maximum

MODULE 1 ENVIRONMENTAL & CHEMICAL POLICY FOR TEXTILE PROCESSING Page 7 of 17

What M&S What is the Maximum

Chlorine based No Legal

MODULE 1 ENVIRONMENTAL & CHEMICAL POLICY FOR TEXTILE PROCESSING Page 8 of 17

DYE AND CHEMICAL SELECTION – AVOIDANCE OF NON-

Childrenswear Panel Prints – see Appendix 7

MODULE 1 ENVIRONMENTAL & CHEMICAL POLICY FOR TEXTILE PROCESSING Page 9 of 17

CAS Number Index Number EC Number Substances

MODULE 1 ENVIRONMENTAL & CHEMICAL POLICY FOR TEXTILE PROCESSING Page 10 of 17

CI Acid Orange 45 22195 Direct Red 21 23560 Direct Blue 173

MODULE 1 ENVIRONMENTAL & CHEMICAL POLICY FOR TEXTILE PROCESSING Page 11 of 17

MODULE 1 ENVIRONMENTAL & CHEMICAL POLICY FOR TEXTILE PROCESSING Page 12 of 17

Captafol Beta- Hexachlorocyclohexane

Chlordane Gamma- Hexachlorocyclohexane

Hexachlorocyclohexane (total Isomers) DDD

2,4,5-T(richlorophenoxyacetic acid) Propetamphos

2,4-D(ichlorophenoxyacetic acid) Diazinon

Dinoseb (and its salts) Chlorfenvionphos

MODULE 1 ENVIRONMENTAL & CHEMICAL POLICY FOR TEXTILE PROCESSING Page 13 of 17

Organic solvents include the following but is not limited to:

Solvent CAS Number

MODULE 1 ENVIRONMENTAL & CHEMICAL POLICY FOR TEXTILE PROCESSING Page 14 of 17

Chemicals can be detected in amounts that fall into 3 categories:

There are two broad types of test:

INDIA/SRI LANKA/BANGLADESH REGION

CHINA/HK, FAR EAST REGION

MODULE 1 ENVIRONMENTAL & CHEMICAL POLICY FOR TEXTILE PROCESSING Page 15 of 17

Childrenswear : Clarification of Chemical Restrictions

The following extra restrictions apply to Childrenswear merchandise:

 Formaldehyde – deliberate use of Formaldehyde containing products not permitted in underwear

 PVC and Phthalates – not permitted

 Biocidal finishes – not permitted unless by consent.

 Flame Retardant finishes – not permitted.

MODULE 1 ENVIRONMENTAL & CHEMICAL POLICY FOR TEXTILE PROCESSING Page 16 of 17

Best practice is to use alternative sequestering agents such as ethylenediaminedisuccinicacid (EDDS),

MODULE 1 ENVIRONMENTAL & CHEMICAL POLICY FOR TEXTILE PROCESSING Page 17 of 17

S-ar putea să vă placă și