Khussa

History of leather
accessories and
footwear-1

LAFD

Semester-3

Maham Mehmood

18-035
 Main Statement

Khussas are Pakistan’s favorite and most traditional shoe. We’ve all seen and worn them
growing up, but have you ever wondered how they came into existence and how they became
such a symbol of all things desi. So I did some research.

Objectives
 Khussa origin
 Evolution of Khussa
 types and modern day Khussa
 detailed embroidery Khussa
 digital and hand-made paint jobs Khussa

Research Questions

 Research and find information about Khussa?

 How many types are there?
 What is the source of variation in Khussa?

Introduction

Khussa is predominantly worn and made in Pakistan and India, while also made in some parts of
China. However, Pakistan is renowned for making the finest khussas. This is attributed to our
method of producing high quality leather and superior stitching by hand.

They are traditionally made by artisans mostly using tanned leather. The uppers are made of one
piece of leather or textile embroidered and embellished with brass nails, cowry shells, mirrors,
bells and ceramic beads.

There is no Left and Right in khussas, being pure leather khussas they automatically take
the shape of your feet.
 Historical References

In the pre-Mughal time, towards the north of the Indian Sub-Continent, there was a lot of
Chinese influence in the area.

Shoes were made with wood as the base. This style originated directly from China but soon fell
out of style due to practicality issues. It wasn’t comfortable nor was it conducive to the hot
weather of the region. Since the region was dominated with farmland, leather was a material that
was easy to come by.

The earliest form of this shoe was the majori.

The majori joota had a very different shape than the Khussa we know and love today. The shoe
was far pointier and had a triangular shape to it. These shoes were crafted to fit the needs of
farmers and farm workers. Leather was an optimal choice since it helped to protect against
injuries.

Soon, the edges smoothed out and shape started to resemble the khussas we
see today.
It was around this time that the show was elevated from the common man to the royal courts.
The Mughal King, Jahangir brought the shoe to the Mughal court, thus making it a royal shoe.
They began to bedazzle the shoe by adding precious stones, embroidery and different types of
thread work.
The shoe was still worn by the common man, just a more regular version of it.
Craftsmen would take orders on a monthly basis and usually, these orders would be for entire
families. Since the concept of money as we know it today hadn’t fully formed, these shoes were
made on a barter basis; so shoes were made in return for wheat and other basics.
Khussas largely remained the same till about a few years ago, when
commercialism really picked up.

Since the mid-2000s, there has been a trend towards ballet flats and ‘pumps’; therefore
khussas provided a desi in-between for this trend to grow in Pakistan and India. Khussas got
more colorful, trendy and definitely more modern.
 Market Review
A customer in Kashmiri Bazaar, 62-year-old Bushra Rehmat said she cannot wear heeled shoes
or sandals because of pain in her knees. The best option for her is to wear flat shoes or khussas,
she said.

Another customer in Kashmiri Bazaar, Farhan Zaidi, said he was out to buy khussas for his
children. He said this was the best option for footwear in the summer.

Potohar Chappal Store owner Naveed Ahmed said that although Kolhapuri chappal and
Peshawari chappal are also available, most people prefer khussas because they are comfortable
and reasonably priced.
Leather khussas can cost between Rs3,500 and Rs6,000, Mr. Abbas said, but lighter
versions made with other materials cost Rs600 to Rs700 for a pair as shown in above
picture.

In the old days, he said, people preferred leather khussas because they were the best to wear
during hot days on the plains of Punjab.
Leather khussas used to be popular, but because of the high cost of leather people wanted
khussas made from fabric or some other material. Most customers give their own
embroidered zari pieces to make footwear for brides and bridegrooms, especially on Eid or for
weddings.

Mr. Abbas a Khussa Maker tracing the upper part of the shoe, and cuts the leather
according to the design.

Mr. Abbas added that the introduction of machinery that brought some ease to the workers, but
the shaping, stitching and molding of khussas is still an art that has to be carried out without
using machines.

Analysis

Khussa makers are now adding different types of kaam to the shoe as well as reforming the
shape of the shoe. From zari, to detailed embroidery and even digital and hand-made paint jobs,
khussas exhibit it all.

Khussa a desi version of flat pumps. It’s been worn by generations and is a part of our culture
and tradition. Its simplicity and elegant shape have won hearts all over the globe. Khussas have
evolved over time from the simple brown ones to the ones that are beautifully studded with
intricate work.
 Conclusion

To conclude we can say that no matter how far the desi fashion scene goes, the Khussa will
always reign supreme, simply because it can change itself to suit the times. There are many
different types available in market from casual wear to formal wear. Khussa is not only available
in leather but also in many different materials. It’s a shoe that has survived a lot and still holds its
relevance in our lives because at the end it’s all about comfort.