Britain - November 2019

FIND YOUR
THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE
TRAVEL CULTURE HERITAGE STYLE
Castle of Queens
Explore 900 years of history at Leeds Castle,
WIN
a special stay
aboard a luxury
floating hotel
royal refuge & party palace
FEASTS FIT HERITAGE SHIPS

FOR A KING From Cutty Sark to the
Banqueting with Henry VIII Royal Yacht Britannia
& Queen Victoria
8 GREAT
PATRONS
OF THE
ARTS
Hidden England NOV/DEC 2019 £4.95
Rutland’s sleepy charms revealed www.britain-magazine.com

Quote: Britain 2019
Escorted Tours
to Britain’s finest historic houses, castles & gardens
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Arts & Cras in the Cotswolds Chelsea Flower Show

The Arts and Crafts Movement was one of the most
influential, profound and far-reaching design movements
& London’s Finest Houses
of modern times. The aim of the movement’s reformers Every May the grounds of the Royal Hospital, Chelsea are
was to re-establish a harmony between architect, designer transformed into a patchwork of show gardens, captivating
and craftsman and to emphasise the importance of urban gardens, inspirational small gardens and vibrant
handcraftsmanship. On this insightful tour to the beautiful plant displays as the most talented of the horticultural
Cotswolds, we explore many of the properties designed world gather for the UK’s most famous flower show. The
by these influential figures; discover country retreats that iconic RHS Chelsea Flower Show is a must-attend event
were a source of inspiration and visit museums and galleries and on this tour, we enjoy admission to the show alongside
renowned for their Arts and Crafts collections. the chance to explore some of London’s finest houses
including magnificent Spencer House.
What’s Included

4 nights at the 4-star Mercure Bowden Hall Hotel, Gloucester with What’s Included
dinner & breakfast

4 nights at the 4-star Holiday Inn London Bloomsbury with breakfast

Porterage, welcome drink & after dinner tea and coffee at the hotel plus 2 dinners

Coach transfers to and from your excursions
Porterage, welcome drink & after dinner tea and coffee at the hotel

Visits to Rodmarton Manor, Chavenage House, Owlpen Manor,
Coach transfers to and from your excursions
Woodchester Mansion, Wilson Gallery, Chipping Campden
& Broadway Museum and Art Gallery

Visits to Spencer House, Green Park, Piccadilly, Queen’s House
& Charlton House

Guided tour with the owners of Rodmarton Manor

Private guided tour, tea and coffee at Spencer House

Guided tour with the owners and afternoon tea at Chavenage House

River taxi from Tower Bridge to Greenwich

Guided tours of Owlpen Manor, Woodchester Mansion

Guided tour and afternoon tea at Charlton House
& Wilson Gallery

Admission to the RHS Chelsea Flower Show

Themed evening talk from a guest speaker

Themed evening talk from a guest speaker

Accompanied by a caring and knowledgeable

Accompanied by a caring and knowledgeable Tour
Tour Manager throughout
Manager throughout
Join us direct Leave the car at home – add return coach travel for only £25pp Door to Door Club Class Home
at the hotel *not available on Chelsea Flower Show & London’s Finest Houses Collection Service from just £99pp
2020 brochure OUT NOW! In association with
To request a FREE 2020 brochure call 03332 342 096

or go online justgoholidays.com/historichouses
Terms & conditions apply. £10 discount applies for Historic Houses members.
EDITOR'S LETTER
With the nights drawing
in, BRITAIN brings
good tidings and a dash
of holiday spirit to warm
up your winter. Join us
as we tuck into Festive feasts (p41) with
our favourite royals from history. Pass
the minst pyes!
We’re also raising a glass to Leeds
Castle (The loveliest castle, p30) as it
celebrates its 900th anniversary. Home
to many an English queen, it is every bit
as lovely as its reputation promises.
There’s abundant good cheer to be
found in our smallest county (Hidden
England, p14): if you’ve never heard of
Rutland, now’s the time to discover its
quaint towns and twinkly pubs.
14
Further south in rural Suffolk, we
trace the course of the River Stour,
wandering through pastoral scenes
23
Belvoir Castle
made famous by two of our most
famous artists (Painters’ paradise, p72).
CONTENTS
And if that isn’t cheering enough, we
have a very special competition this
month (p53): your chance to win a stay
in a luxury floating hotel – sister ship of VOLUME 87 ISSUE 6
the Royal Yacht Britannia, no less.
Enjoy the issue!
FEATURES
PHOTOS: © HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2019/ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST/NEIL HOYLE/ADAM GASSON/SS GREAT BRITAIN
Natasha Foges, Editor 14 HIDDEN ENGLAND

Sleepy Rutland packs in picturesque villages, mighty
castles and scenic views: England's smallest county is
full of surprises
@BRITAINMAGAZINE
23 GREAT COLLECTORS
FACEBOOK/BRITAINMAGAZINE
We examine the legacy of eight prolific patrons of
PINTEREST/BRITAINMAGAZINE the arts, from art-loving royals to private collectors
@BRITAIN_MAGAZINE
30 THE LOVELIEST CASTLE
Leeds Castle celebrates its 900th anniversary this
year. We look back at its many incarnations, from
BRITAI
Norman stronghold and royal palace to private home

41
Castle of Queens
Explore 900 years of history at Leeds Castle,
WIN
a special stay
aboard a luxury
floating hotel
FESTIVE FEASTS
royal refuge & party palace
We serve up mouthwatering moments from history,

tucking in with kings and queens as they have feasted
FEASTS FIT
FOR A KING
Banqueting with Henry VIII
& Queen Victoria
HERITAGE SHIPS
From Cutty Sark to the
Royal Yacht Britannia through the centuries
8 GREAT
PATRONS
OF THE
ARTS
49 SHIP AHOY!
Hidden England Our historic ships have survived storms, naval battles
Rutland’s sleepy charms revealed
Cover image: Leeds Castle

and even shipwreck. We climb aboard and relive the
© Derek Forss drama of life at sea
www.britain-magazine.com
FEATURES
54 BLOOMSBURY BOLTHOLES BRITAIN is the official magazine of
Base yourself in London's literary quarter VisitBritain, the national tourism agency.
BRITAIN is published by
and explore this historic slice of the capital The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd,
62
Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place,
THE AUCKLAND PROJECT London SW3 3TQ
Tel: 020 7349 3700
Bishop Auckland, a small town with big ambitions, Email: info@britain-magazine.com
is fast becoming a cultural hub of the Northeast Editor Natasha Foges
69
Art Editor Clare White
BRAY Production Editor Jenny Rowe
Advertising
It's renowned for its Michelin-star restaurants, Sales Director Cameron Hay
but this riverside idyll has much more in store Group Advertising Manager Natasha Syed
Senior Sales Executive Sam Evanson
72 PAINTERS' PARADISE Sales Executive Lee Aden
54
Chairman Paul Dobson
Take a scenic tour along the River Stour, Chief Operating Officer Kevin Petley
through landscapes as pretty as a picture Publisher Lindsay Greatbatch
Group Editor Steve Pill
Chief Financial Officer Vicki Gavin
Director of Media James Dobson
72
EA to Chairman Sarah Porter
Subs Marketing Manager Bret Weekes
REGULARS For VisitBritain Sarah Wagner

Chelsea Create
Managing Director Steve Ross
6
Partnerships Director Lyndal Beeton
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BRITAIN (ISSN 1757-9732) (USPS 004-335)
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CHESTER p83 Text and pictures are copyright restricted and must not be
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The information contained in BRITAIN has been published in good
faith and every effort has been made to ensure its accuracy.
RUTLAND p14 However, where appropriate, you are strongly advised to check prices,
opening times, dates, etc, before making final arrangements. All liability
WA L E S for loss, disappointment, negligence or damage caused by reliance on the
DEDHAM p72 information contained within this publication is hereby excluded.
BRISTOL p49 The opinions expressed by contributors to BRITAIN are not necessarily
those of the publisher or VisitBritain.
BRAY p69
OSBORNE HOUSE p41 LEEDS CASTLE p30
4 BRITAIN www.britain-magazine.com
C E L E B R AT E T O G E T H E R T H I S D E C E M B E R
EMMA BUNTON’S HANDEL’S CAROL

CHRISTMAS PARTY MESSIAH CONCERTS
CHRISTMAS WITH TREVOR NELSON’S THE

KATHERINE JENKINS SOUL CHRISTMAS NUTCRACKER
AND MUCH MORE!
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YOUR LETTERS
Write to us with your thoughts on the magazine and memories of Britain
STAR LETTER CODE BREAKING & PASTY-MAKING PICNIC AT THE OPERA

I have just received a copy of BRITAIN
The latest copy of BRITAIN [Vol 87, many lovely holidays as a child. Our magazine and was most interested in the
Issue 4] brought back lots of happy Cornish housekeeper taught me how article that included a trip to Glyndebourne
memories. I was a Wren code breaker at to make Cornish pasties – I still cook [Volume 87, Issue 3]. We lived in Lewes in
Bletchley Park during the Second World them for special birthdays! Thanks for the mid-1950s and in the spring of 1956,
War. I was billeted at Woburn Abbey; all the good memories. when my son was still quite small and in
we were bussed to this beautiful, peaceful Marigold McNeely, Covington, a pram, we found ourselves in beautiful
place after a noisy 8-hour Louisiana, USA gardens where we had a picnic. As we were
shift working on Alan leaving people were arriving in full evening
Turing’s Bombe – I am now Our star letter wins a William dress, which looked quite strange but
93 years old and have lived Morris playing card set (£12.99, fascinating. It was an eye opener to see all
in Louisiana for 70 years! V&A Shop), displaying the lush the beautiful dresses and people opening
The other article colours and motifs of the hampers and drinking champagne. It wasn’t
I enjoyed was about renowned British designer. until we were going out of the gates that
Cornwall where I spent www.vam.org.uk we saw the name of Glyndebourne!
Jane Dawkin, Danville, California, USA
MEMORIES OF WOBURN
The delightful article Wonders of Woburn
[Vol 87, Issue 4] brought back so many
memories of my time in England. In the late
1980s/early 90s I lived in the tiny hamlet
of Tingrith, Bedfordshire, a couple of miles
from Woburn Abbey. Since the local road
passed through the estate, my family and
I frequently saw the historic house. One
particularly memorable occasion occurred
after a Christmas Eve midnight service
at the parish church. A light snow and
numerous deer along the roadway turned
it into a magical journey home.
Because a tour of the house was high
MAGNIFICENT MOUNT on the list of family and friends who visited
Your article on Cornwall in the September Mount at full tide with the oarsmen us from the States, we enjoyed the rooms,
issue [Vol 87, Issue 4] brought back fond endeavouring to keep the everyone inside furnishings and artwork each time. We
memories of war years spent in Cornwall as the boat! I spent many holidays at St Ives always kept mum about the Shell Grotto
an evacuee. We often visited St Ives and St after the war, and in fact met my wife on so our visitors could be as surprised and
Michael’s Mount. In those days there were Porthminster Beach. My own daughter and delighted as we were the first time we saw it.
IMAGES: © FUNKYFOOD LONDON/PAUL WILLIAMS/ALAMY
still many open mine shafts and they held her cousins have continued the fascination Sandra Kynes, Portland, Maine, USA
a particular fascination for me, as well as with Cornwall. Thank you for reminding
considerable awe. me of a wonderful part of my childhood
I can remember embarking from spent during the difficult war years. MORE LETTERS
Marazion in a small boat to St Michael’s Alan Webb, Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Sadly we don’t have room to
publish all of your letters here.
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couple of weeks of history, archaeology and mythology combined
with beautiful scenery, wonderful food and fantastic wine.”
EXPERT-LED ARCHAEOLOGICAL & CULTURAL TOURS FOR SMALL GROUPS
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Exploring Hadrian’s Wall:

Romans, Reivers and Romantics
Join us on an exploration of the raw beauty and richly-layered history of this most distinctive English
region. Few areas so large come to be defined by a single work of man, but the Wall Country has
had a special character since the Romans first set this great work in trail over field, hill, crag and river
nearly two thousand years ago.
Exploring Wessex:
From Neolithic Avebury to Georgian Bath
Wessex: close to our home base, and close to our hearts. A beautiful region of England, which
perfectly encapsulates the history and culture of the country. From the ancient chalk downlands of
Wiltshire, through the lush tree-clad hills of Gloucestershire to the misty beauty of the Somerset
Levels, this is the England of the mind’s eye.
Exploring Wales
Millennia Under The Gaze Of Mountains
A unique story of lands with a long and complex history of invasion, accommodation, resistance and
conquest, through all of which distinct local forms of power, culture, religion and dialect persisted.
Today, we can take you to a land of overpowering natural beauty with a welcoming character, some
of the finest historic sites in the British Isles and truly delicious traditional dishes.
Walking Hadrian’s Wall

Be introduced to some of the most awe-inspiring and historic landscapes anywhere in Britain.
Building on our experience with Exploring Hadrian’s Wall, and our long expertise in the area, in this
tour we offer a different take on the region, aimed to give those who want to walk more of this
extraordinarily beautiful countryside the chance to experience its raw beauty, while still visiting the
historic sites with the expert guidance that is our hallmark.
www.petersommer.com
Escorted Archaeological Tours,
Tel: 855 4433027 (US toll free)
Gulet Cruises and Private Charters
info@petersommer.com
HISTORY / NEWS / REVIEWS / INSPIRATION
The
BULLETIN
A lavish light show, a circus spectacular and
London as you've never seen it before
F E S T I VA L
Lighting up Durham
World-renowned for its cathedral and castle, Durham has more reason to
draw the crowds this November, as the biennial Lumiere light festival returns
to its home town. Maximising the impact of its historic landmarks and
contemporary buildings, the festival will transform them into large-scale art
installations. For this tenth anniversary edition, new artworks will be on show
alongside firm favourites from previous years. Expect the unexpected: a
foreboding fog creeping across the River Wear against the backdrop of
Durham Castle is only a teaser of what the UNESCO World Heritage City
PHOTO: © MATHEW ANDREWS
has in store for visitors. Lumiere takes place from 14 to 17 November.

www.lumiere-festival.com
EXHIBITION
Clock work
Between the 16th and 18th centuries,

Britain experienced a boom in watch- and
clockmaking. A new exhibition of rare
historic timepieces, The Luxury of Time:
Clocks from 1550-1750, is on show at the
National Museum of Scotland until 26
January. The 25 objects illustrate the
extreme technical skill required of makers,
and the labour-intensive production of such
luxury items, seen as status symbols of the
very rich. Highlights are two beautiful
watches by David Ramsay, King James VI
and I’s Chief Clockmaker.
T H E AT R E www.nms.ac.uk T R AV E L
Circus spectacular Monster steps

Following a critically acclaimed run last year, The completion of the last major section of
Circus 1903 returns to celebrate the golden the South Loch Ness Trail and improved
age of the circus. Between the mid-1800s and signage on its pathways mean that the
mid-1900s, the phenomenon of the American LochNess360 is now welcoming walkers,
circus swelled into one of the world’s most cyclists and horse-riders to enjoy its circular
popular show-biz industries, introducing 80 mile (129km)-long route around this
audiences to new cultures. Recreating the spectacular loch in the Scottish Highlands.
PHOTOS: © MANUEL HARLAN/IWM (ART.IWM PST 8774)/SERGEY STRELKOV/ALAMY/KRIS CHRISTIAENS/LONDON TRANSPORT MUSEUM
carnival atmosphere of bygone circus life and Taking in 3000m of ascent and passing
featuring life-sized elephants – the work of through the villages of Drumnadrochit,
the puppeteers from War Horse – the show Invermoriston, Fort Augustus, Foyers and
presents jaw-dropping acts, such as the Dores, the route incorporates parts of both
Brazilian Wheel of Death, performed by the Great Glen Way on the north side and
acrobats and contortionists. The show is the South Loch Ness Trail on the south.
at London’s Royal Festival Hall from 19 Keep an eye out for legendary loch-dweller,
SHOPPING
December until 5 January. Nessie, as you take in the scenery.
www.circus1903.com www.lochness-360.com
Fighting talk
2019 saw the 75th anniversary of D-Day

and the 80th anniversary of the opening of
Churchill’s secret underground bunker,
which became operational in the lead-up to
the Second World War – now the must-see
Churchill War Rooms. The Imperial War
Museums’ shop reproduces prints from the
time, including this tribute to the RAF,
uttered solemnly by Churchill in a speech
on 20 August 1940 following their historic
victory in the Battle of Britain.
www.iwmshop.org.uk
EXHIBITION
Urban underworld
Beneath the streets of London lurks a system of secret Tube of staff working in two 2.5 mile-long tunnels on the Central line.
stations, passageways and shelters. The oldest subterranean Iconic locations are recreated in the Global Gallery, including the
railway in the world is revealed to the public in Hidden London, a historic abandoned ticket hall at Aldwych station.
new immersive exhibition at the London Transport Museum. Hidden London: Discovering the Forgotten Underground (Yale
Expect stories from Britain’s wartime past; the Plessey University Press, £19.99) has been published in conjunction with
underground aircraft factory, for example, had 2,000 members the exhibition, which opens on 11 October. www.ltmuseum.co.uk
READING CORNER
Take inspiration for your
British adventure from these
great reads
After the Lost Franklin

Expedition by Peter
Baxter (Pen & Sword
Books, £25). All 129
men died, but this
book tells this tragic
Sweet chestnuts story from widow Lady
Franklin’s perspective.
are a traditional
and indulgent Charles Booth’s London
Poverty Maps (Thames
Christmas treat
& Hudson, £49.95).
RECIPE Collating contemporary
reports made by
Chestnut, rum and chocolate pavlova Charles Booth and his
team of sociologists as
they documented the
wealth of the capital
The recipes in National Trust Comfort Food by Clive Goudercourt (National Trust Books, in the 19th century.
£20) are taken from the kitchens and cafés at properties and estates nationwide. This
impressive layered meringue dessert is inspired by the story of Cecilia Strickland, who, after Digging Up Britain by
a visit to Versailles, planted sweet chestnuts in the grounds of her home at Sizergh, Cumbria. Mike Pitts (Thames &
Hudson, £24.95).
I n g re d i e n t s : SERVES 10 TO 12 Ten astounding
new archaeological
6 large egg whites 2 x 250g/9oz cans sweetened chestnut purée
discoveries that have
340g/12oz caster sugar 2 tbsp dark rum changed how we
comprehend the
2 tsp vanilla extract 200g/7oz dark chocolate, broken into pieces past million years
of British history.
600ml/1pt double cream Dark chocolate shavings or cocoa, to decorate
Tracks: Walking the
Method: Ancient Landscapes of
Preheat the oven to 110°C/225°F/gas mark ¼. Line three baking sheets with non-stick Britain by Philip
baking paper and draw a 20cm/8 inch circle onto each. Hughes (Thames &
Add the egg whites to a large bowl and whisk with an electric mixer into stiff peaks. Hudson, £24.95).
Gradually whisk in all the sugar, a tablespoonful at a time. Whisk for a minute or two Reproducing 140 of
Hughes’s paintings that
more until very thick and glossy, then add the vanilla.
record 11 iconic walks
Divide the meringue equally between the lined baking sheets, spreading into three
across Britain.
flat circles within the marked lines. Bake for 1½ hours or until the paper can be peeled
easily away from the base of the meringue circles. Turn off the oven and leave to cool. Women of the Home
Slowly bring 400ml/14fl oz cream to the boil. Remove from the heat, add the chocolate Front, introduced by
and stir until smooth. Leave to cool in the fridge until thick enough to spread. Elizabeth Shipton
Mix the chestnut purée and rum in a second medium-sized bowl. Whip the remaining (Mirrorpix, £12.99).
cream in a third bowl until it forms soft swirls, then fold into the chestnut mix. More than seven million
To serve, take one of the meringue discs off the baking paper and put onto a plate with women were engaged
the flat underside uppermost. Gently layer one third of the chocolate cream followed by in war work. This image
one third of the chestnut mix on top. Repeat with the second meringue and third meringue archive strives to do
them justice.
(the final time place the swirly top-side uppermost). Decorate with a few chocolate
shavings and dust with a little sifted cocoa. Chill in the fridge until ready to serve.
Visit the heart of
beautiful Georgian
Bath and step into
history with a visit to
the Roman Baths, one
of the finest spas of
the ancient world.
Only 90 minutes from London Paddington

Book online and save 10% at romanbaths.co.uk
Hidden England
Rutland packs in picturesque villages, mighty castles and scenic
views: England’s smallest county is full of surprises
WORDS JENNIFER MORRIS
Normanton Church on the

bank of Rutland Water
This image:
The Buttercross
Market at Oakham
Bottom left: Peterborough
Cathedral in nearby
Cambridgeshire
Bottom right:
Belvoir Castle
ot many people have heard of Rutland, not

even those who live in the UK. Comprising less
than 150 square miles in the very heart of
England, scenic, sleepy Rutland is flanked by
the more famous counties of Leicestershire, Lincolnshire
and Northamptonshire.
Rutland regained its status as a ceremonial county in
1997 and was given the motto “Multum in parvo”, the
Latin for “Much in little” – and rightly so. What the
smallest county in England lacks in size, it makes up for
in charisma. With pretty Rutland Water at its heart, this
is a county of golden ironstone villages, ancient churches,
breathtaking farmland vistas, twinkly old pubs and the
picture-perfect market towns of Uppingham and Oakham
– home to two of the country’s most historic schools.
While many gems lie just beyond county lines, there’s
plenty to be explored within. Oakham – the county town
and home to Rutland’s only train station – dates back to
medieval times and is peppered with independent boutiques
and coffee shops like Castle Cottage, purveyor of locally
legendary cakes. The recently restored Oakham Castle,
built 1180-90, is one of the oldest aisled stone halls in the
country. Inside hang 240 horseshoes, gifted to the Lord
16 BRITAIN
PHOTOS: © BILL ALLSOPP/ALAMY/EYE35.PIX/IVAN VDOVIN/IAN DAGNALL. ILLUSTRATION: © MICHAEL HILL
RUTLAND
RUTLAND
of the Manor by royalty and peers, with the oldest dating Stoke Dry church, whose walls bear a 13th-century mural. Above: Burghley
back to Edward IV’s visit in 1470. The castle is the As legend has it, this is where Guy Fawkes and his co- House in Stamford
longest-running seat of justice in England – since 1229 conspirators thrashed out plans to blow up James I in 1605. Left: The Heaven
Room at Burghley is
– and is still occasionally used as a Crown Court. Nearby Travel a few miles south, just over Rutland’s border into painted with murals
at Rutland County Museum visitors can learn more about Northampton, and you come to the Norman Rockingham by Antonio Verrio
crime and punishment in the county, and take a look Castle, standing proudly above the Welland Valley, with
at the only surviving ‘New Drop’ gallows in England. dramatic views across five counties. It was built under the
A mile or so east, you reach the shores of Rutland instruction of William the Conqueror and boasts a Great
Water. The reservoir has an interesting history, having Hall with portraits of Elizabeth I and her advisors, Lords
been constructed in the 1970s via the demolition of Burghley, Howard and Dudley. The Long Gallery was once
one and a half villages and the flooding of a valley. The the focal point of family entertainment and holds an array
village of Upper Hambleton survived, and now sits on a of family artefacts, including a well-loved rocking horse.
peninsula, home to the 19th-century Hambleton Hall hotel. Those on a castle-hopping tour shouldn’t miss Belvoir
Rutland Water has evolved not only into a notable Castle in nearby Leicestershire. This fairytale Regency
PHOTOS: © IAN DAGNALL /AL AMY/BRIAN L AWRENCE
fishing and bird-watching destination – site of a castle, home to the Duke of Rutland’s family since 1067,
programme to reintroduce osprey to England – but also holds one of the country’s finest art collections, displayed
as a place for bike and boat rides. Cycle round the scenic in some breathtakingly grand rooms.
shores on bikes hired from Normanton – stopping for Smaller than Oakham, Uppingham is known for its
a pint or a pub lunch en route – or sail on the Rutland antiques shops and the renowned Goldmark Gallery, which
Belle from Whitwell. specialises in 20th-century art and hosts a drop-in buffet
Another reservoir, the Eyebrook, straddling Rutland and lunch daily, free of charge. Bustling pubs line the square
Leicestershire, offers stunning views and is a Site of Special of this historic market town, which puts on an annual
Scientific Interest after being used in 1943 as a practice Fatstock Show: an opportunity for Rutland farmers
site for the Dambuster raids. Be sure to pop into nearby to show off their pigs, sheep and cattle.
www.britain-magazine.com BRITAIN 19
RUTLAND
THE PLANNER
GETTING THERE
Direct trains run from London
St Pancras to Corby (20min drive from
Uppingham) in 75min. Trains also operate
from London to Leicester and Peterborough
in about an hour, with both cities connecting
to the Oakham/Stamford line (which also
runs to Stansted Airport). Alternatively, see
the county in style on a private tour with
British Heritage Chauffeur Tours. www.
thetrainline.com; bhctours.co.uk
WHERE TO STAY
Hambleton Hall offers historic
lodgings with views over Rutland Water,
while the 16th-century Falcon Hotel stands
on Uppingham’s market square.
www.hambletonhall.com;
www.falcon-hotel.co.uk
WHERE TO EAT
Rutland and the surrounding area has
a strong foodie heritage. Hambleton Hall has
a Michelin Star, while the Olive Branch in
Clipsham has achieved accolades for its pub
classics and gourmet delights. For a taste of
a British classic, head across the border to
Leicestershire, where Melton Mowbray is
home to the pork pie, beloved by Brits.
Stilton, the famous blue cheese, is also
local, and the town hosts the country’s
biggest cheese fair in May.
www.hambletonhall.com;
www.theolivebranchpub.com
FURTHER INFORMATION
i
www.discover-rutland.co.uk;
www.hiddenengland.org
Another lovely town hereabouts is Stamford. Often It’s a short detour to another historic site, Fotheringhay. Above: Rockingham
described as the finest stone town in England, it built up While only the earthworks and the conical motte remain Castle was built
above the Welland
and prospered in Georgian times thanks to the wool trade of Fotheringhay Castle, the site is worth a visit for its
Valley, with views
and its position as a mail coach interchange on the Great significance in British history. In 1587 the castle was chosen across five counties
North Road, almost halfway between London and York. to host the trial and execution of Mary, Queen of Scots,
Its attractiveness has led to its use as the backdrop for whose body was subsequently transported to nearby
numerous TV costume dramas and films, including the Peterborough Cathedral for burial, before being moved
2005 iteration of Pride & Prejudice. In the village of Little for final burial at Westminster Abbey.
Casterton nearby, Tolthorpe Hall is home to the Stamford With scenic views and historic sites galore, you could
Shakespeare Company, which puts on summer plays in an spend days exploring this pocket of hidden England, but
auditorium in the grounds. make time too for its low-key charms. The real spirit of
Any trip to Stamford should include a visit to Rutland is to be found in its countless sleepy (or not so
magnificent Burghley House, one of England’s finest sleepy) villages, whose cosy pubs play host to fireside
Elizabethan houses, set in sprawling parkland. It was meet-ups in winter, and whose squares and grassy
built and mostly designed by William Cecil, Lord High verges come alive with the clinking of Pimm’s glasses
Treasurer to Elizabeth I, between 1555 and 1587. A series come summer. “Much in little”, indeed.
of special events celebrating 500 years since Cecil’s birth
is planned for 2020.  For more great British days out, see www.britain-magazine.com
Romeo and Juliet
Love’s Labour’s Lost
Oscar Wilde’s
The Importance of
Being Earnest
ONE OF THE FINEST
CATHEDRALS IN THE WORLD
arc re, fas ng history, Lincoln Cathedral is proud to welcome
bly f the fin thedrals in disabled visitors, and is listed as an
the world. breathing church is ac sit nd.
open for ev oy.
Floor tours included in the admission price.

LINCOLNCATHEDRAL.COM
VISITLINCOLN.COM | 01522 561600
TOLETHORPE HALL
Tower and roof tours available. Family tickets,
concessions, and joint tickets with Lincoln
VISITORS@LINCOLNCATHEDRAL.COM
9 June – 29 August 2020
Castle are available. Hidden Places passes
are also accepted. Open all year round. Lincoln.Cathedral @LincsCathedral
Take time to explore and discover the Last summer over 32,000 people experienced the
splendid scenery of the countryside and
coast of the UK and Ireland with all its magic of an evening at Tolethorpe Hall. As the sun
vibrant beauty… before returning to enjoy slowly sets, enjoy a picnic in the beautiful grounds,
the peace and tranquillity of a restful stay then take your seat, protected from summer
in a nearby B&B or Self-Catering Cottage. showers, and see a stage like no other.
The Bed & Breakfast Nationwide brochure,
The Little Green Book, and websites are comprehensive guides to “One of the ﬁnest things to do this summer”
more than 400 inspected, high quality B&Bs and a selection of self-
catering accommodation. They include B&Bs that welcome dogs and
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some with facilities for the less mobile.
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“One of England’s premier alfresco theatre venues”
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Explore somewhere new by staying in one of our B&Bs
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Cruise in England
ABTA No.Y6581
PHOTOS: © PJRSTATUES/AL AMY/NATIONAL TRUST/ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST/HER MAJEST Y QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2019/THE WALL ACE COLLECTION/SIR JOHN SOANE'S MUSEUM, LONDON/HORNIMAN MUSEUM AND GARDENS
CULTURE
GREAT COLLECTORS
We examine the legacy of eight prolific patrons of the arts, from
art-loving royals to private collectors of curios
WORDS FELICITY DAY
any of Britain’s finest

museums owe their
existence to the magpie
instincts of a private collector or
two, and their generous desire to
share the fruits of their labours with
the nation. Though the collectors
themselves are long gone, their
personal treasure troves give us a
glimpse into their lives and loves,
personal tastes and inspirations.
Here we’ve gathered seven of our
country’s great collectors, whose
collections can still be visited today.
Top, left to right: Sir John Soane; George IV; Frederick Horniman Middle, left to right: Sir Richard
Wallace; Charles Wade; Sir Julius Wernher Bottom: Joséphine and John Bowes
SIR JOHN SOANE
Architect Sir John Soane, designer of the Bank of England, rose from humble
beginnings as the son of a bricklayer. His famous collection of art and antiquities
started with his Grand Tour of Europe in 1778, funded by a scholarship from the
Royal Academy. It was fuelled in later years by his desire to assemble pieces that
would inspire and encourage students of architecture.
Soane gathered architectural models and fragments (some from sites on
which he worked); antiquities such as his famed Egyptian Sarcophagus; classical
sculptures; and paintings by artists such as Hogarth, Canaletto and Turner.
The collection became so large that he bought and re-built three neighbouring
properties in London’s Lincoln’s Inn Fields to display it all.
His presentation was deliberately eclectic; pieces were squeezed into every nook
and cranny and objects creatively juxtaposed. Visitors can still experience it as
Soane intended, thanks to his express instruction that both house and collection
be preserved as they were on his death in 1837.
www.soane.org
CULTURE
KING GEORGE IV
PHOTOS: © GARETH GARDNER /ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST/HER MAJEST Y QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2019
He may have been voted our “most useless” monarch in an

English Heritage poll, but King George IV is arguably Britain’s
greatest royal collector. A connoisseur of the arts, he purchased
some of the Royal Collection’s finest Old Masters. He also
commissioned works from the most talented artists of his day,
notably Sir Thomas Lawrence, who created the spectacular
series of portraits in the Waterloo Chamber at Windsor Castle.
George was also a zealous collector of French furniture and
decorative art. He gave the Royal Collection its unparalleled
selection of Sèvres porcelain, including an entire service
commissioned by Louis XVI. His fascination with Napoleon
is responsible for some of the Collection’s more intriguing
objects, like the Emperor’s cloak and travelling cutlery.
It’s George’s abundant treasures that fill the state rooms at
Buckingham Palace and Windsor Castle. They’ve provided the
backdrop to countless royal and state occasions, and this year,
he is being honoured with a dedicated exhibition at the Queen’s
Gallery, Buckingham Palace, exploring his unrivalled collection.
www.rct.uk
JOHN AND JOSÉPHINE BOWES
The story of the Bowes’ magnificent collection starts in Paris
in 1847. There, John, the illegitimate son of the 10th Earl of
Strathmore, purchased a theatre and fell head-over-heels in
love with one of the actresses, Joséphine. Both were passionate
art-lovers, and with plenty of money at their disposal, they
embarked on an ambitious philanthropic project: to create
a world-class museum that would bring art and culture into
the lives of the people of John’s native County Durham.
In little more than 12 years they gathered 15,000 objects:
porcelain, glassware and tapestries; a large group of Spanish
artworks, including notable pieces by El Greco and Goya; and
a famous silver swan automaton, a rare survival from the 1700s.
To house them all, they designed a magnificent French-style
château, as breathtakingly beautiful as the objects within.
www.thebowesmuseum.org.uk
FREDERICK HORNIMAN
Frederick Horniman’s father was a tea trader, the first to devise a means of PHOTOS: © NATURAL HISTORY COLLECTION/NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES/JAMES DOBSON
packaging tea in machine-sealed containers. This innovation made the family
rich, and Frederick was able to indulge a passion for natural history that he’d
developed in boyhood, collecting insects, moths and birds. He travelled the
world searching for new specimens, and objects that would illustrate the arts
and crafts of its different peoples. From far-flung destinations like Sri Lanka,
Burma, India and Egypt he brought birds, beasts and botany, cultural artefacts,
costumes and instruments – anything that would ‘interest and inform’.
His burgeoning collection eventually forced his family out of their home in
Forest Hill in South London. They opened it as a museum in 1890, though it
was soon replaced by a larger arts and crafts building, gifted to the people of
London in 1901, along with the entire collection. That’s grown tenfold over
a century, but Frederick’s items remain stars of the show, particularly his
Canadian walrus. Over-stuffed by a Victorian taxidermist, it’s so beloved
by visitors that it has its own Twitter account.
www.horniman.ac.uk
CHARLES WADE
“Let nothing perish” was the motto of artist and
architect Charles Wade, who began collecting as
a child, inspired by his grandmother’s cabinet of
curiosities. From spinning wheels, bicycles and
kitchen utensils to suits of Samurai armour, what
linked all the objects he amassed over a lifetime
was not rarity or value, but quality hand
-craftsmanship.
Snowshill Manor in the Cotswolds was his
grand showcase for them. Wade lived in the
cottage next door, acting as both chief curator
and tour guide to a host of famous faces, including
Queen Mary, Virginia Woolf and Graham Greene.
Handed to the National Trust in 1951, its low-lit
rooms are each imaginatively named, themed
(“Hundred Wheels” houses all the cycles, for
example) and fit to bursting with his 22,000
pieces – just as their collector left them.
www.nationaltrust.org.uk
SIR RICHARD WALLACE
Sir Richard Wallace had collecting in his blood.
He was the illegitimate son of the fourth
Marquess of Hertford, one of Europe’s richest
men and an obsessive collector of fine art
and furniture. Brought up by his paternal
grandmother in France, Sir Richard acted
as his father’s assistant and sales agent. After
inheriting from him in 1870, he made his own
eclectic contributions to the family treasure
trove, most notably a collection of rare and
PHOTOS: © MAURITIUS IMAGES GMBH/ALAMY/JIM HOLDEN/ENGLISH HERITAGE
impeccably preserved armour and weaponry

– one of the most important in Britain.
Sir Richard was a generous philanthropist
throughout his life (his actions during the
Franco-Prussian war earned him both a
baronetcy and the Légion d’honneur); his
collection was one of the most significant
donations ever made when it was bequeathed
to the nation on his wife’s death in 1897. It’s
sumptuously displayed across 25 galleries in
the couple’s former home, just minutes from
the hustle and bustle of London’s Oxford Street.
www.wallacecollection.org
SIR JULIUS WERNHER
It was the “splendidly ugly” that fascinated
Sir Julius Wernher. A German-born diamond
magnate, he began collecting in earnest after
returning home to London in the 1880s, having
amassed an enormous fortune in South Africa.
Though he purchased paintings, ceramics and
tapestries like many of his contemporaries, his
passion was for unusual, small-scale pieces
from the medieval and Renaissance periods.
Exquisitely carved in ivory, wood or enamel,
these were often macabre, depicting skulls,
skeletons and rotting corpses.
His distinctive collection was left without
a home when his descendants sold his country
house in Bedfordshire. Luckily, trustees agreed
to a long-term loan to English Heritage, who
have displayed it to great effect in the 18th
-century Ranger’s House in Greenwich.
www.english-heritage.org.uk
The loveliest castle
Leeds Castle celebrates its 900th anniversary this year. We look back at its many
incarnations, from Norman stronghold and royal palace to lavish private home
WORDS NATASHA FOGES
Leeds Castle's moat is the
perfect place for a punt
32 BRITAIN
STATELY HOMES
PHOTOS: © 4CORNERS/ANDREA ARMELLIN/MAURICE CROOKS/ALAMY/
WWW.MATTHEWWALKERPHOTOGRAPHY.COM
Clockwise, from top left: A
portrait of Richard II and
Baron Lumley hangs in
the Banqueting Hall;
the grand, medieval-style
Queen's Gallery; the
retinue embark for the
Field of Cloth of Gold
hen American newspaper Decrepit it may have been, but it was a real bought Leeds in 1278 when its owner ran
tycoon Randolph Hearst royal castle, historic home of kings and into debt.
decided he wanted to buy queens, surrounded by a moat and set in 500 Edward improved the castle’s defences,
an English castle, he sent a acres of parkland. Not only one of Britain’s constructing soaring 30-foot walls, a
telegraph to his agent: “Want buy a castle in most beautiful castles (it was described by barbican and a bath house. The three-storey
England. Please find which ones available.” historian Lord Conway as “the loveliest castle keep was transformed by Queen Eleanor
Leeds Castle in Kent had just gone up for sale in the world” in 1913, and the epithet has into the Gloriette, with a central courtyard,
and his agent duly looked round, before stuck), Leeds is also one of its most storied. a Great Hall and luxurious apartments.
sending back a dismal report: “Not a bath in The first stone castle here was built in 1119 Eleanor died in 1290. A grief-stricken
place only lighting oil lamps and servants on a rocky islet in the River Len by the one of Edward constructed the Chapel in her
quarters down dungeon.” This was enough to the great Norman noble families, the de honour and had monks chant mass for her
scare off the luxury-loving Hearst, but The Crèvecoeurs. This was a castle designed to be day and night. In 1299, to improve England’s
Hon Olive Wilson-Filmer, an Anglo- lived in – something that appealed to the fraught relations with the French, Edward
American heiress, glimpsed beauty in the kings and queens who were to become its married French princess Margaret and
decaying rooms and overgrown grounds, and occupants. The first royal owner was Queen granted her the castle: the start of a centuries-
snapped up the castle in 1926 for £180,000. Eleanor of Castile, Edward I’s wife, who long tradition that saw Leeds Castle
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STATELY HOMES
This image: The Castle and

Maiden's Tower
Below: Catherine of Aragon's
bedroom was later used as
Lady Baillie's boudoir
PHOTOS: © W W W.MATTHEWWALKPHOTOGRAPHY.COM
forming part of the ‘dower’ – personal

property to be retained after the king’s death
– of several of England’s queens.
Upon Margaret’s death Leeds reverted
to the Crown, but wayward Edward II didn’t
follow his father’s example, granting the
castle not to his queen, Isabella, but to one
Batholomew of Badlesmere, Lord Steward
of the royal household. Although Leeds had
passed out of royal hands, when Isabella
arrived at the castle in 1321 she expected the
usual deferential welcome. However, she was
refused access by Badlesmere’s wife, who
instructed archers to fire upon her and her
entourage. An incensed Edward besieged and
captured the castle, imprisoning Lady
Badlesmere and beheading her husband.
Queen Isabella regained the castle, holding it embroidered with the initials H and C Maiden’s Tower to house the queen’s Maids of
until her death in 1327. entwined with a lovers’ knot. Honour – among them, incidentally, a young
The castle’s queenly associations don’t end Leeds was also the site of Catherine’s Anne Boleyn of nearby Hever Castle, later to
there. Richard II wisely followed tradition scandalous affair with her Welsh Clerk become Henry’s second wife.
and bequeathed the castle to his queen, Anne of the Wardrobe, Owen Tudor. Catherine’s It was at Leeds in 1520 that Henry and
of Bohemia, in 1382; as did Henry IV, who grandson by her second marriage was Henry Catherine, and a retinue of over 5000, spent
gave Leeds to his second wife Joan of Tudor, later Henry VII, the first of the Tudor the night before making their way to France
Navarre; and Henry V, who gave the castle to dynasty. His son, Henry VIII, ushered in a for a ceremonial meeting with Francis I: a
his widow Catherine de Valois. In an new era for the castle, transforming it from a dazzling spectacle known as the Field of Cloth
evocation of Henry and Catherine’s royal fortified stronghold to a spectacular palace for of Gold. The castle’s Banqueting Hall,
apartments in the present-day castle, a the king and his first wife, Catherine of improved for their visit, overlooks the
magnificent bed is draped in silk damask, Aragon. It is said that Henry constructed the parkland where the crowds assembled.
STATELY HOMES
Beguiled by the castle’s

romantic air, Lady Baillie
dreamed of recreating a
medieval castle
While Leeds had always been the “queens’

castle”, Henry’s marital set-up was nothing
if not complicated, and none of his wives was
granted the honour. In 1552 after nearly 300
years of royal ownership, the castle was given
to Sir Anthony St Leger, one of the king’s
ministers. The castle left the possession
of the queens of England forever.
Over the next centuries of private
ownership Leeds changed hands – and
appearance – several times. The Tudor palace
was transformed into a Jacobean house,
which was later demolished and replaced
PHOTOS: © WWW.MATTHEWWALKERPHOTOGRAPHY.COM
with the Tudor-style “New Castle” by
the Wykeham Martin family in 1822,
a harmonious addition in keeping with
the existing architecture.
In 1926 the Wykeham Martins were
forced to sell due to death duties. Enter
the aforementioned Olive Wilson-Firmer,
later Lady Baillie, who had inherited a
vast fortune aged just 17 when her mother,
one of the Whitney dynasty, died. Her vision
– and her fortune – saved the castle from
dereliction. Leeds was to become a lifelong
passion project. Beguiled by the castle’s
romantic air, Lady Baillie – her title upon
her third marriage, to an English baronet
– dreamed of recreating a medieval castle
as her weekend retreat. She reorganised
the rooms, reconstructing the Gloriette
and redecorating throughout.
For digs this luxurious, only the finest
interior designers would do. Parisians
Armand-Albert Rateau and Stéphane Boudin
were the foremost designers of their time;
Boudin’s client list was particularly stellar,
including the style-conscious Duke and
Duchess of Windsor and Jacqueline Kennedy.
The decorative style of Lady Baillie’s
remodelled rooms is pleasingly varied,
reflecting the many eras of history that
overlap within Leeds’ solid stone walls. The
spare, grandly medieval Queen’s Gallery, for
example, feels centuries away from Lady
Baillie’s French Regency bedroom with its
Louis XIV-style blue panelling, and the sleek
Art Deco lines of her dressing room.
Furniture was handcrafted by artisans, and
precious antiques shipped in. The handsome
panelling in the Thorpe Hall Drawing Room,
for example, came from a stately home in
Cambridgeshire; originally painted green,
STATELY HOMES
The library at Leeds

Castle is inviting and
comfortable
STATELY HOMES
GETTING THERE
Trains run regularly from London Victoria
station to Bearsted (journey time around an hour),
from where a coach shuttle service operated by
Spot Travel runs from April to September.
www.thetrainline.com; www.spottravel.co.uk
LEEDS CASTLE
Buy tickets through the website. Beyond the
castle, the grounds hold a number of attractions
including a maze, a falconry centre and beautiful
gardens. Tours, talks and events take place year-
round. www.leeds-castle.com
WHERE TO STAY
The castle has an array of accommodation
options, including quaint holiday homes in the
grounds – wisteria-draped Battel Hall is our pick –
B&B rooms in the Stable Courtyard and Maiden’s
Tower, and medieval-themed glamping tents.
it arrived in thousands of pieces and was

painstakingly stripped and reassembled
to meet Lady Baillie’s exacting standards.
Above the fireplace in the Library – an
inviting ensemble of easy chairs and 19th-
century globes – is a portrait of Lady Baillie,
looking every inch the glamorous society
hostess, flanked by her daughters Pauline and
Susan. The parties at Leeds were legendary.
Although not a scene-stealer by nature
– Lady Baillie would often cloister herself
This image: Lady Baillie in her rooms while parties were in full
with her daughters swing downstairs – she was one of the
Below: Lady Baillie's most influential hostesses of her day.
bedroom, where she
Her guests – a mix of British royals,
often retreated
during parties powerful statesmen and film stars – were
indulged with undreamt-of luxuries: a
swimming pool with England’s first wave
machine, a vast croquet lawn, and, in the
velvet-lined Saloon, an ebony dancefloor on
which to dance the night away. Wandering
the grounds, guests would come across
free-roaming zebras, while black swans –
imported from Australia – glided serenely
round the moat. Still thriving, the swans are
now the castle’s emblem.
Upon her death in 1974, Lady Baillie
bequeathed the castle to the Leeds Castle
Foundation to ensure it would be preserved
for future generations to enjoy. As ever, her
wishes came true: the castle celebrates its
900th anniversary this year, and is looking
lovelier than ever.
 For more on Britain's beautiful castles, see

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ARCHITECTURE HISTORY
STUNNING SCENIC MEMORABLE

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Guest rooms accommodate up to 14 people.
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Tranquil gardens offer food, wine and quiet escape under sun and
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Clos De Vaul Creux,Rue Lucas,Sark GY10 1SG
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Guided tours to London’s iconic pubs
Following in the footsteps of Shakespeare & Dickens, we pause

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HISTORY
This image: Osborne’s

Housekeeper with
mince pies
Festive
FEASTS
We serve up mouthwatering moments from history,
tucking in with kings and queens as they have feasted
PHOTO: © ROBERT SMITH
through the centuries

WORDS NEIL JONES
ild boar’s head cooked in wine, boiled
capon, roast goose, peacock, swan, fruit
jellies, syllabubs and Christmas pie (“a
most learned mixture of neats [beef]
tongues, chicken, eggs, sugar, raising, lemon and orange
peel, and various kinds of spicery”): if you were a guest
at a Tudor court banquet, such mouthwatering mountains
would likely be among the treats to set your tastebuds
dancing. Conspicuous consumption was the name of the
game in extravagant dining displays of wealth and power.
Through the ages, royal Yuletide feasts dish up rich
insights into both changing tastes and changing times:
from medieval boar’s head to modern turkey, and from
extravagant public shows to more private meals behind
closed doors. Eating has never been simply about
sustenance. So, pour the lamb’s wool (hot spiced ale)
and sack posset (hot milk curdled with Canary wine),
and get ready to wash down some memorable menus.
In 1252 Henry III laid on a festive feast in York for
1,000 guests that was so costly that the Archbishop of
York helped out by donating 600 oxen and an enormous
£2,700. Richard II, nearly 150 years later, splashed out on
HISTORY
2,000 oxen and 200 tuns of wine for his 10,000 guests. and basic vegetables to
PHOTOS: © JAMES LINSELL-CLARK/HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES/BRIDGEMAN IMAGES/STEPHEN BENNETT PHOTOGRAPHY
Then in the reign of Edward IV (1461–83) banqueting keep them going. Christmas
reached new heights of social complexity, with a whole Day, reserved for religious
rash of courtesy books written to explain etiquette. devotions rather than being
An army of servers, carvers and cup-bearers attended a culinary high point,
Edward’s feasts, layering on pomp and ceremony and nevertheless signalled the
maintaining pecking orders. A high-ranking servant welcome start of twelve days
of honour even tested King Edward IV’s food for safety of frivolity, food and feasting,
by prodding it with a unicorn’s horn (a fossil shell). culminating in the Epiphany
The Tudors were as flamboyant over food as they were or Twelfth Night.
about everything else and a visit today to Henry VIII’s The parade of a boar’s head
Kitchens at Hampton Court Palace gives a vivid flavour at Yuletide was an established
of the behind-the-scenes activities required to feed the custom by now, and there was lots of meat for the court, Clockwise from top left:
court. Some 200 cooks, sergeants, grooms and pages and fowl and game birds for the king and nobility. Turkey Henry VIII’s Kitchens at
were employed in hot, sweaty conditions described arrived on the scene in England early in the Tudor period Hampton Court; the
Great Hall at the heart of
by one observer as “veritable hells”. This Christmas, and it is claimed that Henry VIII was the first monarch the palace; George IV’s
daily cookery on an Elizabethan theme reveals the to eat it during his Christmas revels, probably poached coronation banquet in
sort of dishes produced. in wine or served in a pie rather than roasted as today. Westminster Hall;
For Henry VIII, Advent was a time of fasting, explains As ever, there was great attention to seating Christmas heralded a
Historic Kitchens team member Richard Fitch; king and arrangements, reflecting the court’s hierarchy, and ink return to meat and
dairy products
courtiers would have eschewed meat and dairy products continued to be spilled on the subject of table manners.
for the month before Christmas, relying instead on fish “Sit not down until you have washed… Don’t shift your
HISTORY
PHOTOS: © JAMES PIKE
buttocks left and right as if to let off some blast. Sit neatly
and still”, the Renaissance scholar Erasmus counselled in
De Civitate (1534).
Henry’s daughter Elizabeth I was notorious for her
sweet tooth and fondness for (receiving) presents, two
passions that dovetailed nicely at New Year, the
traditional time for gift-giving before the Yuletide focus
shifted to Christmas Day in later centuries. For New Year
1577, Elizabeth’s Serjeant of the Pastry department gave
her a gilded pie of quinces and warden pears, while a tasty
haul of treats at New Year 1585 included sweetmeats from
her physician, a box of lozenges and pot of conserve from
her apothecary, and “a fayre marchepayne” (marzipan)
from her master cook. No one who wanted to curry royal
favour could afford to stint on flavoursome flattery.
“To make Minst Pyes. Take your Veale and perboyle it
a little” begins a recipe in The Good Houswives Treasurie people, their importance indicated by the number Opposite: The Royal
(1588), a reminder that our sweet mince pies of today of pies each was sent. Pavilion, Brighton decked
out for Christmas
once contained meat as well as fruit. Their association Indeed, after the hiccough of mid-17th-century
Top to bottom: The Great
with Christmas grew in the latter part of the 17th century clampdowns on Christmas frivolities by Puritan Kitchen at the Royal
and they were often shaped to resemble Christ’s manger. government, it was Georgian royalty, reigning from 1714, Pavilion; dessert is served
Soon the Prince Regent (later George IV) would be solving who really led the way in restoring Yuletide cheer, and the
any present-giving dilemmas by sending hundreds of iconic ingredients of our modern celebrations began to
mince pies to friends – his gift list for 1812 names 124 settle. George I insisted that his first English Christmas
BRITAIN 45
HISTORY
PHOTO: © PATRICK EDEN/ALAMY

in 1714 be garnished with a plum pudding – a sticky loved to throw lavish Christmas and shooting parties at Above: The full festive
favourite that was well on its evolutionary way from Sandringham in Norfolk. Practical jokes included hiding spread at Osborne House
medieval plum pottage of meat and fruit, to the densely a dead pheasant in a guest’s bed.
rich (and alcoholic) fruity staple of festive tables today. Today’s Royal Family, too, heads for Sandringham for
Kitchens during the era reached a new level of Christmas Day. According to former royal chef Darren
sophistication, as you will find if you drop into the McGrady, following morning church the family sits down
Great Kitchen in the Royal Pavilion, Brighton, the Prince to a traditional lunch including roasted turkey with all the
Regent’s exotic seaside palace. ‘Prinny’ was so proud of trimmings, and Christmas pudding with brandy butter.
its state-of-the-art equipment, including a steam table to After viewing the Queen’s (pre-recorded) Christmas
keep dishes warm, that in 1817 he even held a Christmas Broadcast on TV, there’s fruitcake for tea and an evening
dinner party below stairs to show it off. Echoing such buffet – at which Her Majesty presents the senior chef
occasions, this December Christmas Banquets at the with a glass of whiskey and they toast. A fitting finale
Pavilion allow paying guests to enjoy canapés in the to our royal feast of Christmases.
kitchen followed by a three-course meal in the
splendid Banqueting Room.  For more on the history of British customs and traditions,
With Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, royal go to www.britain-magazine.com
festivities became much more family-centric, and dinner
on Christmas Day had now become the focal point of
seasonal feasting. Whether at Windsor Castle or Osborne BOOK AHEAD
House on the Isle of Wight, Victoria’s chefs cooked up a
storm with courses typically ranging through soup, fish, Osborne House offering the chance to dine in the Banqueting
chicken breasts, roast beef or turkey with chipolatas, Feast on roasted chestnuts and sip mulled Room, run on selected evenings from 6 to 20
plum pudding and mince pies. A side table groaned wine at Osborne’s Victorian Christmas (30 December. brightonmuseums.org.uk
with a buffet of baron of beef, boar’s head, woodcock November to 1 December).
pie, game pie, brawn, tongue and roast fowl. Victoria also www.english-heritage.org.uk Hampton Court
made sure staff were well fed, throwing huge tea-and-bun From 21 December to 5 January, Henry VIII’s
parties for them and their families at Osborne. Royal Pavilion Kitchens will fill with the scent of cooking from
Meanwhile Victoria’s son, the future Edward VII and Christmas Banquets at the Royal Pavilion, the late Elizabethan era. www.hrp.org.uk
noted bon viveur (his nickname was Prince Tum-Tum)
SCOTLAND
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Wales: Snowdonia National Park, Welsh Castles where history and fantasy come face to face. See Lords of the Isles and Viking Treasure.
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site at Knowth in Bru Na Boinne, Belfast June 25-July 6, 2020 • 11 Nights • $4,995 and Northeast coasts, and the Highlands.
May 9-22, 2020 • 13 Nights • $5,795 Sept. 26-Oct. 4, 2020 • 8 Nights • $3,995 Includes the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo.
August 12-27, 2020 • 15 Nights • $5,995
Deluxe escorted tours 16-guest maximum
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A 10-day package staying at a base hotel, so & Potato Peel Pie Society
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S IP A
Our hist s have survived st es and even
Y!
shipwreck. We climb aboard and relive the drama of life at sea
WORDS DIANA WOOLF
lthough Britannia can no longer claim to the Australian wool trade, and in 1885 she set the record
rule the waves, relics from her maritime for the fastest trip from Sydney to Britain, completing
heyday are still very much in evidence, the voyage in just 73 days. The secret of her success was
thanks to Britain’s museum ships. Stars of a cutting-edge new hull design that meant that she was
the fleet range from Henry VIII’s doomed warship, the strong enough to carry more sails than her competitors.
Mary Rose, to the present Queen’s much-loved former Today it’s possible to admire the lovely lines of the hull
royal yacht, Britannia, with one of the most famous close up, as you can walk right under the ship thanks to
PHOTOS: ADAM GASSON/SS GREAT BRITAIN
being Cutty Sark, the world’s sole surviving tea clipper, a metal scaffold that suspends her three metres above a
launched 150 years ago this November. dry dock. In a nod to the ship’s origins, you can even
Cutty Sark was built for speed so that she could win take afternoon tea under the gleaming copper hull.
the annual ‘race’ from China to London to bring home Take in the world’s largest collection of Merchant
the first (and freshest) tea of the year – which would Navy figureheads displayed under the ship’s bow
command the highest prices. Her career as a tea clipper Above: Brunel's before learning about life on board in the interior,
only lasted eight years, before her owners moved on to SS Great Britain and enjoying views over the Thames from the deck.
HERITAGE
Clockwise from below: Sark is the world's sole

Cutty Sark's collection surviving tea clipper;
of Merchant Navy warship HMS Belfast
figureheads; Cutty on the Thames
The Tudor ship Mary Rose was equally state-of- and the open gun-ports meant that the ship immediately
the-art, as she was one of the first ever purpose-built flooded. Of the 500 men on board, only 35 survived.
warships, commissioned by Henry VIII as part of Henry VIII’s pride and joy then lay on the seabed for the
his new navy. The design included novelties such as next 437 years until a team of divers and archaeologists
gun-ports, although this particular feature may have managed to raise her hull in 1982.
led to her downfall in 1545 when she unexpectedly Following a massive conservation programme, the
PHOTOS: © SELWYN/ALAMY/COWARD_LION/IWM/ANDREW TUNNARD
sank in the Solent, the strait separating the English remains of the Tudor flagship are now on display in the
mainland from the Isle of Wight. One theory is that a Mary Rose Museum in Portsmouth. Almost the entire
gust of wind hit as she turned, causing her to capsize, starboard side of the ship has survived and a walkway
allows visitors to stroll along the centre of the ship,
with the original structure to one side and a virtual
HMS Belfast is a very different reconstruction, furnished with original artefacts
ship: although launched only 36 from the wreck, on the other.
The replica of another Tudor ship, the Golden Hinde,
years after Discovery, she is a made in the 1970s and now on display in London, helps
no-nonsense, modern fill in the gaps left by the incomplete Mary Rose, as the
ship has been rebuilt in its entirety. The Golden Hinde
fighting machine was the galleon captained by the Elizabethan
50 BRITAIN
For more on
atmospheric British
heritage sites,
go to www.britain-
magazine.com
adventurer, Francis Drake, on his circumnavigation

of the world between 1577 and 1580, and what is most
striking about the ship is its size. It seems incredible that
a wooden sailing ship just 31 metres long and six metres
wide could have completed such an extraordinary
voyage, returning home not only safe and sound,
but packed full of stolen treasure – a feat of seamanship
(and licenced piracy) that won its dashing captain
a knighthood.
Possibly Britain’s most famous historic ship, HMS
Victory, sits resplendent in her black and yellow colours
in a dry dock next door to the Mary Rose Museum.
First launched in 1765, she served in the Royal Navy
for 40 years before her moment of glory as Admiral
Nelson’s flagship during the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805.
Although the battle was one of Britain’s greatest naval
victories, Nelson himself was shot during the carnage,
and you can see the spot on the orlop deck where he
HERITAGE
Top: The drawing Bottom: The impressive

room inside the gun decks on HMS
Royal Yacht Britannia Victory, now in a dry
Middle: The wreck dock next to the
of the Mary Rose Mary Rose Museum
died. The Admiral’s Great Cabin, and that of his flag

captain Hardy, can also be seen: light and airy contrasts
to the cramped quarters of the seamen, who would have
eaten and slept between the cannon on the gun decks.
HMS Victory seems vast when seen from the
quayside, but the SS Great Britain completely
dwarfs her: when launched in 1843 she was the
longest passenger boat in the world. Her designer, the
engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel, gave her two other
technological firsts: an iron hull and a screw propeller.
She had a varied career – as a luxury liner, an
emigrant clipper, a cargo ship and a coal hulk – before
being ignominiously scuttled in the Falkland Islands in
1937. However, after a remarkable rescue operation she
was brought back to Bristol in the 1970s and today is
the central attraction at the city’s historic docks, along
with the newly opened museum, Being Brunel.
In 2020, for the first time, visitors will be able
to descend into the dry dock in which Victory
sits to glimpse her oldest areas, rarely seen. A new
gallery, The Nation’s Flagship, will open to share
the fascinating tale of the ship’s construction,
service and ongoing conservation.
Two 20th-century Royal Navy ships are open to
the public. The oldest is RRS (Royal Research Ship)
Discovery, built in 1900 for scientific research in the
Antarctic. She was made with a massive wooden hull
to withstand the pressure of the sea ice, a design that
was successfully tested when she was trapped by ice
for almost two years during Captain Scott’s Antarctic
Expedition. Today she sits in a specially constructed
dock in Dundee, where she was built, alongside
a museum tracing her extraordinary history.
HMS Belfast is a very different ship: although
launched only 36 years after Discovery, she is a
no-nonsense, modern fighting machine. You can
visit the ship, moored on the River Thames in London,
and find out about her wartime history in the displays
on board before exploring her gun turrets and nine
decks, linked by a bewildering maze of ladders,
hatches and passageways.
In stark contrast, the mission of the Royal Yacht
PHOTOS: © CHRISTOPHER ISON/MARC MILLAR PHOTOGRAPHY
Britannia was peace, not war. Launched in 1953, she

was designed as a floating royal residence and hosted
magnificent state receptions around the world until
she was decommissioned in 1997.
Visitors can see the State Apartments where
leaders such as Nelson Mandela and Ronald Reagan
were entertained, as well as catching more intimate
glimpses of the Royal Family, as the privacy of the
yacht meant that it was also used for family holidays
and honeymoons – a nicely domestic postscript to
Britain’s long maritime history.
52 BRITAIN
W IN
A STAY ON LUXURY FLOATING HOTEL
eveloped by The Royal Yacht Britannia,
FINGAL
Fingal evokes the glamour of the golden age
Fingal opened in January 2019 in of travel. She combines an escape from the HOW TO ENTER
Edinburgh’s historic Port of Leith as a everyday with proximity to all the delights of
unique addition to Edinburgh’s hotel scene. This Scotland’s capital, from Edinburgh Castle to
For your chance to win this fantastic
former Northern Lighthouse Board ship is now the Royal Palace of Holyroodhouse.
prize go to www.britain-magazine.
beginning an exciting new chapter, offering Tickets to visit Her Majesty the Queen’s
beautiful cabins, dining and entertaining spaces. former ship, The Royal Yacht Britannia, are com/competitions/fingalcomp
One lucky winner and their guest will enjoy included in this very special prize, and the to apply online, or fill in the coupon
a unique stay: two nights aboard Fingal, winner will also be treated to the unforgettable below with the answer to the following
staying in a luxurious cabin, with a full experience of tea and scones on board. question:
Scottish breakfast each morning. www.fingal.co.uk
Fingal’s 23 cabins are each named after Q: What are Fingal’s cabins named
Stevenson lighthouses, inspired by her rich TERMS AND CONDITIONS after?
Closing date for entries is 12pm GMT 2 January 2020. Excludes Friday
maritime heritage. Sleek corridors lined with and Saturday nights. The prize is to be redeemed by 2 January 2021 and a) Famous ports
lighthouse images lead to the beautiful cabins. is non-transferable. Travel to the hotel is not included. For full terms and b) Knots
conditions, go to www.britain-magazine.com/competitions/fingalcomp
Carefully considered design reflects the highest c) Lighthouses
standards of craftmanship and finish, with
nautical touches and polished woods ENTRY FORM
throughout. Sumptuous Scottish leathers SEND YOUR COUPON TO: US readers – Fingal Competition,
and the finest linens are in colour palettes C/O Circulation Specialists, 2 Corporate Drive, Suite 945, Shelton CT 06484
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The Chelsea Magazine Company, Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London SW3 3TQ , UK
The Lighthouse Bar offers a stylish yet relaxed
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afternoon tea or a light supper celebrating the Name:
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PLACES TO STAY
BLOOMSBURY
BOLTHOLES Base yourself in London’s literary quarter – all
leafy squares and Georgian terraces – and
explore this historic slice of the capital
WORDS NATASHA FOGES
This image: Georgian terraces

line Fitzroy Square in London
Right: The library at the
Charlotte Street Hotel
PLACES TO STAY
loomsbury. The name conjures up visions of bookish types

on bicycles, free-wheeling through leafy London squares.
Sitting between the busy central London districts of King’s
Cross, Clerkenwell, Holborn and Fitzrovia, the
Bloomsbury quarter has always been a bit different.
London’s literary and intellectual capital has a reputation not
only as a place for heavyweight learning – it harbours many of the
University College London buildings – but also for liberalism and
free-thinking. It was made famous in the years between the two
World Wars by the Bloomsbury Group, a coterie of influential writers
and artists, including Virginia Woolf and her sister Vanessa Bell.
Their experimental lifestyle – they “lived in squares, painted in
circles and loved in triangles”, quipped American satirist Dorothy
Parker – made a lasting mark on this enduringly bohemian area.
Since 1669, the entire district has been owned and managed
by the Bedford Estate, whose family seat is Woburn Abbey in
Bedfordshire. The continuity of ownership has ensured that the
area’s defining features – grand squares and terraces of elegant
Georgian townhouses – have remained much as they have been
for centuries. It makes an excellent choice for a central London
stay, especially if you like townhouse hotels with character.
A run of five such townhouses dating back to 1776 make up The
Academy, a boutique hotel that curates a luxurious-yet-bohemian
atmosphere. Little nooks like the cosy library and bar are stacked with PHOTOS: © JEFF GILBERT/AL AMY/SIMON BROWN/HEMIS/SIOBHAN DOR AN/
books by members of the Bloomsbury Group for guests to read on the

velvet banquettes. The rooms have a home-from-home warmth, with
comfy leather armchairs, and some benefit from marble fireplaces.
Stroll from the hotel on Gower Street and you’ll soon spot
one of the area’s many blue plaques, attesting to Bloomsbury’s
intellectual credentials. Charles Darwin worked on his theory
of natural selection at no.110; no.10 was once home to Lady
THE RED CARNATION HOTEL COMPANY
Ottoline Morrell, a patron of the arts, who hosted members

of the Bloomsbury Group; while at no.7 a trio of young painters
– John Everett Millais, William Holman Hunt and Dante Gabriel
Rossetti – shook up the British art establishment when they
founded the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood in 1848.
Just down the road, a small independent publisher, Bloomsbury,
became a world leader when it accepted a magical manuscript that
many other publishers had turned down: Harry Potter and the
Clockwise, from top left:
The British Museum; the
Bloomsbury Suite at The
Academy; a picnic courtesy of
The Montague; the Charles
Dickens Museum
Philosopher’s Stone. It turned out to be one of the wisest investments The Bloomsbury Group “lived in
in publishing history: over 120 million copies have since been sold.
The area’s main cultural focus is undoubtedly the British Museum, squares, painted in circles and loved
which contains a staggering eight million artefacts spanning two
million years of human history and culture; you could wander its in triangles”, quipped Dorothy Parker
rooms of Egyptian mummies and classical sculptures for weeks and
still not see it all, so focusing on just one or two sections is best. Our peaceful oasis with park benches and a welcoming little café. On one
top tip is to start with the beautiful yet under-visited Enlightenment corner is a vast terracotta-red building with an impressive facade of
gallery, whose floor-to-ceiling display cases are filled with objects columns and dancing putti. A landmark hotel since the 19th century,
donated to the museum in its early days. it is now the Kimpton Fitzroy, which has recently undergone an £85
Nearby, the Bloomsbury Hotel adeptly channels the bohemian million revamp. The lobby sets the tone with acres of marble,
Bloomsbury Group spirit. The sitting room, with its roaring fire, chandeliers and mosaics, while the rooms are suavely luxurious
low lighting and forest-green wallpaper, is hung with artworks in tasteful shades of taupe.
that echo the style of the Group’s leading painters, while the arty Just off the square is The Montague on the Gardens, a townhouse
theme continues in the Coral Room bar, a gorgeous pink-hued hotel whose elegant Georgian rooms are livened up with luxurious yet
space transported from the Jazz Age. The rooms themselves lighthearted touches. The chicly spotty Leopard Bar hosts live jazz,
are in a more muted palette, to ensure a sound night’s sleep. while in winter an alpine ski lodge pops up here, complete with falling
The biggest of the area’s famous squares is Russell Square, a snow and reindeer. The Master Suite is our pick of the characterful
A place of worship, welcome and hospitality, at the
heart of the UNESCO Durham World Heritage
Site. Famous as the Shrine of St Cuthbert and the
resting place of the Venerable Bede, it is renowned
for its stunning Norman architecture.
The Cathedral’s medieval monastic buildings house Open Treasure,
the Cathedral’s award-winning museum that reveals the remarkable
story of Durham Cathedral and its incredible collections through
temporary and permanent displays for visitors of all ages.
There is no set admission to enter Durham Cathedral, though
visitors are invited to donate £3 per person to ensure the Cathedral
can be enjoyed today and by future generations. Charges apply to
tours and Open Treasure.
See www.durhamcathedral.co.uk for information about services,
events and the exhibition programme within Open Treasure which
for 2019 includes Feasting and Fasting: The Great Kitchen at
Durham Cathedral, Vikings! and Mapping the World.
Image: Graeme Peacock

PLACES TO STAY
For more
inspiring ideas
rooms, with lush fabrics, floor-skimming drapes and of places to stay,
views over the secluded gardens. In summer, afternoon visit www.britain-
tea can be organised in these tranquil gardens, which are
magazine.com
usually off-limits to the public.
A short stroll away are two unmissable sights. Fans of
Charles Dickens will want to make a pilgrimage to his
Victorian home at 48 Doughty Street, where the novelist lived
with his young family, and where he penned Oliver Twist and
Nicholas Nickleby, among other works. The house is filled with
their treasured belongings, including handwritten manuscripts
and his wife Catherine’s engagement ring.
Dickens was famous for his philanthropy, and he lived in an area
that must have had an impact on his developing social conscience.
On the corner of Brunswick Square is the Foundling Museum, which
explores the history of the Foundling Hospital, Britain’s first
children’s charity, established in 1739 to care for babies that would
otherwise have been abandoned. It was also England’s first public art
gallery, supported by William Hogarth, George Frideric Handel and
Dickens, among others. Don’t miss the poignant display of tokens left
by mothers. These acted as identifiers – each child was given a new
name – and range from engraved coins to a humble walnut.
Further south, Bloomsbury merges into Holborn, where the
Rosewood London is a magnificent palace of a hotel tucked off
Above: The grand entrance

to the Rosewood London
Below: The drawing room
at the Charlotte Street Hotel
PHOTOS: © DURSTON SAYLOR'13/SIMON BROWN
PLACES TO STAY
Above: The lobby of the

Kimpton Fitzroy hotel
Left: The Bloomsbury
Hotel's cosy sitting room
busy High Holborn. Tweed-clad porters greet you in the courtyard

and whisk your luggage away, so that you can make your entrance BOOK AHEAD
into the showstopping lobby unencumbered. With a zebra-striped
marble floor, it’s dotted with bird cages, outsize paintings and The Academy The Montague on the Gardens
cabinets of curiosities on a scale to rival those in the British Museum. The five townhouses that make up A leopard-print bar, stripy walls and
The rooms and suites are decorated in soothing natural tones, this hotel have snug rooms and a ornate mirrors; minimalists should
while the generous bathrooms gleam with polished marble. Those bookish bar that puts on a literary look elsewhere, but this hotel certainly
lucky enough to stay in one of the hotel’s top suites can expect butler afternoon tea. has character.
service and monogrammed pillows; book the vast Manor House www.theacademyhotel.co.uk www.montaguehotel.com
Wing and you’ll be staying in the only suite in the world with its own
postcode. The on-site restaurant, Holborn Dining Room, is a buzzy, Bloomsbury Hotel Rosewood London
glamorous brasserie, with a bar that stocks more than 500 gins. Celebrated hotel designer Martin A fashionable hotel with plenty of high-
Finally, just beyond Bloomsbury on the fringes of Fitzrovia, the Brudnizki has breathed new life into end touches, as well as various dining
Charlotte Street Hotel takes its Bloomsbury Group theme this Lutyens-designed building with options, a cocktail bar and a spa.
seriously. The drawing room and library display originals by the Deco touches and bold colours. www.rosewoodhotels.com
Group’s principal artists, Vanessa Bell, Roger Fry and Duncan www.doylecollection.com
Grant, while a mural in the restaurant is influenced by their style Charlotte Street Hotel
and colour palette. The theme is carried through to the bedrooms, Kimpton Fitzroy This homage to the Bloomsbury
PHOTOS: © TOM MANNION
where carefully chosen paintings impart a welcoming, lived-in For grandeur and opulence at a more Group painters offers plenty to catch
feel. The Woolf Suite contains artfully clashing prints, whimsical affordable price than the capital’s the eye. Features such as an honesty
wallpaper and a cosy corner lined with books. Virginia Woolf, heritage five-stars, this is a good bet. bar and film nights are nice touches.
who wrote so passionately about having a room of one’s own, www.ihg.com www.firmdalehotels.com
would have felt right at home.
HERITAGE
The interior of St
Peter's Chapel
The Auckland
Project
Bishop Auckland, a small town with big
ambitions, is fast becoming a cultural hub,
set to revitalise England’s Northeast
WORDS LAWRENCE ALEXANDER
ishop Auckland, County

Durham, was once the
playground of the second
most powerful man in England.
Powerful men don’t usually like to share
and, for centuries, the castle here kept its
doors fi rmly locked. The inhabitants of the
small market town took it in their stride
– they were more interested in life around
the nearby coalmines anyway. When the
pits closed in the 1960s, Bishop Auckland,
like so many other mining towns, began
to fade away. It would take a new vision
to begin to turn things around.
From early medieval times the Bishops
of Durham answered only to the king
himself. Granted exceptional power to
govern the North of England they
BRITAIN 63
HERITAGE
A small incident began a chain of events

that would lead to a cultural earthquake
became ‘Prince Bishops’, as comfortable in to give something back to the area. “The
their role as warriors as they were men of Auckland Project was founded in 2012,
God. Even Prince Bishops needed the year that Jane and I came to live in
somewhere to relax, however, and a few Bishop Auckland,” he says. He bought
miles away from the city, on a ridge the paintings – and then Auckland Castle
looking out over the River Wear, they itself, to keep them in.
found an ideal position for their fortified Ruffer’s initial idea was to open the
pleasure palace. castle to the public for the first time,
Over the centuries various incumbents but things soon gained a momentum of
of the position remodelled and tweaked their own. A vision developed, one where
Auckland Castle to their own tastes. museums, gardens, parkland, restaurants,
They hosted banquets and hunting trips, world-class exhibitions and other
dignitaries and royalty, including kings attractions would celebrate the Northeast,
John, Edward III, James I, Charles I and employing and engaging local people and
Queen Victoria. volunteers, regenerating the town through
The castle was in continuous occupation arts and culture.
until the early 21st century, owned by the Ruffer is keen to point out this
Church of England. Then a small incident was not some fancy top-down initiative
began a chain of events that would parachuting in to distribute cultural alms
lead to a cultural earthquake. to the poor. “We do not aim to bring
A series of rare paintings by 17th- good things to people,” he says, “nor to
century Spanish master Francisco de do nice things for people. ‘With’ is the key
Zurbarán was put up for sale. The word; we work in partnership with
canvases, Jacob and His Twelve Sons, individuals, governments (local and
Biblical founders of the twelve tribes national), other charities, the churches,
of Israel, had lived in the castle since and all other religions.”
1756 when Bishop Richard Trevor, a First to open was the Auckland Tower
supporter of the then-controversial Jewish visitor centre in the marketplace, which
Naturalisation Act of 1753, had purchased tells the story of the Prince Bishops and
them in a highly political gesture. gives a literal overview of the town from
Wealthy businessman Jonathan Ruffer a 15m-high platform. It’s a great way of
had been brought up in the Northeast getting your bearings and working out
of England. He and his wife Jane had, what to visit next. Below, in the
for some time, been looking for a way marketplace itself, a former bank has
Left: Jonathan Ruffer

Centre, clockwise from
top left: Jacob, of 'Jacob
and his Twelve Sons';
the deer house; the
Bishop Trevor Gallery;
Auckland Castle's
exterior; Joseph,
painted by Zurbarán
64 BRITAIN
HERITAGE
reopened as the Mining Art Gallery.

Moving and deeply personal, it contains
work by artists such as Tom McGuinness
and Norman Cornish. The themes enjoy a
direct link with the town and its people
through rolling exhibitions, depicting
rugged local communities.
Inspired by the acquisition of the
Zurbarán paintings, Ruffer also instigated
the soon-to-be-opened Spanish Gallery.
This will cover Spanish art from medieval
old masters to contemporary works,
focusing on the 16th- and 17th-century
Spanish Golden Age.
To get to the Castle, visitors pass
another building under construction,
based on medieval tithe barns. The Faith
Museum will trace the history of belief
in the British Isles from the earliest
prehistoric ritual, through the Northeast’s
contribution to Christianity via Saint
Cuthbert and the Venerable Bede, to
modern expressions of faith. It will include
one of the oldest Christian objects ever
found in the UK: a pre-Constantinian
signet ring, found about a mile away at
Binchester Roman Fort.
Also en route to the castle is the gigantic,
14,000-square-metre walled garden. In its
18th-century heyday the garden grew one
PHOTOS: © GRAEME PEACOCK/THE AUCKLAND PROJECT/ZURBARÁN TRUST/JUSTIN PIPERGER/BARRY PELLS/COLIN DAVISON
of Britain’s first pineapples, but it recently

fell into disrepair. It is currently being
replanted with flowers, fruit and vegetables
to supply a glasshouse restaurant that
will nestle in the warm brick walls.
A small gate leads to a superb 13th-
century deer park. It’s not hard to see why
the Prince Bishops built here. Bishop
Auckland is as beautiful as it is compact,
with water supplied from the river below
and steep hillsides making it easily
defendable. Don’t miss the crenellated
Georgian deer house, from which the
Bishops would have surveyed their quarry
before releasing it for the chase.
Auckland Castle survived the
Reformation, after Bishop Cuthbert
Tunstall sensibly signed Henry VIII’s Act
of Supremacy, keeping both his head and
his lands. Alas, the castle fared less well
a century later during the English Civil
War. It was sold and partly demolished.
BRITAIN 65
HERITAGE
For more on
beautiful County
Left: The finale of
Durham,
Kynren, Bishop
Auckland's spectacular see www.britain-
annual summer event magazine.com
On the Restoration of Charles II the windows even have pink-tinged glass world of a different Bishop of Durham,
Church got the castle back in ruins. In to give everyone a healthy glow. including the ‘Abolitionist Bishop’, Shute
a slightly unusual about-face to the fate of Some exciting discoveries have been Barrington, and Reform Act opponent
most country houses, the former medieval made during restoration, such as the William Van Mildert, whose effigy was
Great Hall was turned into a church. It original Tudor servery in the kitchens, burned outside his window by the mob.
remains as solemn and awe-inspiring as it carved with the phrase Est Deo Gracia Hensley Henson, who opposed
must have been four centuries ago. (Thanks be to God). This was a time- appeasement with Nazi Germany, is
During the 18th century much of the rest saving device: any food that passed shown through his (very untidy) study,
of the castle was remodelled in Gothic style. under it was deemed to have already while David Jenkins, labelled ‘Bishop of
It was designed for frivolity, its lightness had grace said for it. Blasphemy’ by the press, spoke out about
reflected in a rainbow of pastel-coloured When the castle fully reopens in the closure of the mines and is represented
walls and white-painted tracery. The late 2019, each room will recreate the in his daughter’s 1980s bedroom.
Bishop Trevor’s former apartments
will house the Bishop Trevor Gallery,
Kynren: an epic tale of England an art gallery hosting a programme
of world-class exhibitions of fine art.
Bishop Auckland hosts one of the biggest spectacles September, Kynren explores 2,000 years of English Bishop Auckland is finally waking up
in the north of England: Kynren, adapted from the history via thrill-mongering stunts, gasp-worthy after its long slumber to a new and exciting
PHOTOS: © IAN FORSYTH/GETTY
Anglo-Saxon ‘cynren’, means ‘kindred’ or ‘family’. special effects, staggering pyrotechnics – and a future. As Jonathan Ruffer notes, “Real
Another of Jonathan Ruffer’s projects, it was ‘family’ of 1,000 local actors. Galloping invaders, change in a community takes place over
inspired by the extraordinary Puy du Fou night flaming arrows, water jets and an entire Viking ship generations and our plans are, accordingly,
pageant in the Vendée region of France. Taking rising from a dark, still lake keep an audience of conceived on this timescale.” This time,
place most Saturday evenings between June and 8,000 entranced. www.kynren.com the doors are unlocked to all.
www.aucklandproject.org
Binchester (Vinovia) was the largest Roman fort in Co. Durham, built to
guard the crossing of the River Wear. The displayed remains include
one of the best preserved bath-buildings in Britain.
The fort is located about one mile north of Bishop Auckland beside the
lane leading from the town hall square to Newfield. It is signposted
from the A690 Durham – Crook, the A688 Spennymoor – Bishop
Auckland, and from Bishop Auckland town centre. Coaches and any
other large vehicles are advised to approach from Bishop Auckland
town hall square via Wear Chare.
Re-enactment events and guided tours take place this year on Saturday
and Sunday July 11/12 and also on Monday 31 August
Open April 1st until October 31st. 11.00am – 4.30pm,
July and August 10.00am – 4.30pm.
Tel: 01388 663089. Outside opening hours 03000
267013. Email archaeology@durham.gov.uk
www.durham.gov.uk/binchester
Enjoy a seasonal short break in the beautiful countryside of the Durham dales at this family
owned and run country hotel. Well positioned between London and Edinburgh and as a
base for exploring the Yorkshire Dales and Lake District.
Dinner, Bed & Breakfast from just £95 pppn based on two sharing for a 2 night stay.
H ead l am H al l He adl a m N ea r G a in ford Te esdale D L2 3 HA

www.head lam hall.co.u k
Tel : 0 13 25 7 302 38 a d min@he adl a m ha l l .c o.uk
This image: The
riverside at Bray
Centre: Swan Uppers
tag and record swans
along the River Thames
t’s not immediately The river, indeed, is Bray’s

obvious why the eal draw. After a wander
16th-century Thameside hrough the village (and, why
village of Bray in not, a slap-up meal), it’s time
Berkshire is one of the world’s o explore. This beautiful
gastronomic capitals. A sleepy ection of the Thames is
place, its only landmark is an elatively unspoilt: a lush,
ancient flint church that hosts un-dappled stretch that calls
teas in the village hall on Sunday afternoons. to mind Three Men in a Boat, Jerome K
BRAY
Lanes of comely cottages fronted by flower- Jerome’s 1889 account of a trip down the river
filled gardens up the quaint factor, while taken by the hapless heroes of the title. The
riverside mansions give the village an air humorous mishaps of the trio (plus dog
of moneyed ease. Montmorency) include an episode that takes
Remarkably, this small village holds two It’s renowned for its place just downriver of Bray, at Monkey
of Britain’s three Michelin-star restaurants Island. Having moored up for a picnic, they
– perhaps thanks to its proximity both
Michelin-star restaurants, unpack a tin of pineapple only to realise that
PHOTOS: © PETER LANE/ALAMY/MATT CROSSICK/EMPICS ENTERTAINMENT
to London and “millionaire’s row”, but this riverside idyll has they’ve forgotten a tin-opener. There follows
as this stretch of the river is known. “a fearful battle” in which they attempt
Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck in the
much more in store to open it by force, but the tin remains
heart of the village is beloved of critics and WORDS NATASHA FOGES stubbornly closed, eventually meeting
gourmets for its highly experimental cuisine. a watery end when it is lobbed furiously
Guests embark on a ‘journey’ rather than into the Thames.
a mere meal, with the food a visual and The three would find the island quite a
olfactory experience designed to provoke different place these days. This seven-acre
a sense of nostalgia for childhood holidays. eyot (as the Thames’ islets are known) now
A mere crouton’s throw away is Alain harbours a luxury hotel that exudes Gatsby-
Roux’s Waterside Inn, an elegant temple ish glamour. Monkey Island Estate has its
to contemporary French cooking, with own floating spa and a sleek launch,
a dreamy terrace right on the river. Dragonfly, that glides guests down the river,
BRITAIN 69
WEEKENDER
For more
great things to see
and do in Berkshire,
go to www.britain-
magazine.com
PHOTOS: © LYNK PHOTOGR APHY

This image: The Dragonfly
launch cruises past the
Monkey Island Estate
Left: Aternoon tea at
Cliveden House
allowing glimpses of the kingfishers On the opposite bank of the river is

that flit along the willow-fringed pretty Cookham, home of the artist Sir
banks, and of the manicured lawns Stanley Spencer, one of the greatest British
that stretch up to grand houses. painters of the 20th century. A dedicated
The island’s unusual moniker was first gallery includes depictions of this “village in
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS thought to have come from its 12th-century heaven”, the artist’s favourite place on earth.
visitors, a group of monks (hence Monks One of his subjects was the annual Swan
GETTING THERE & AROUND Eyot). Used by the Church for centuries, it Upping ceremony in July, when the scarlet-
Trains run from London Paddington to was bought in 1723 by Charles Spencer, the clad Royal Swankeeper carries out a census
Maidenhead (25-40min), from where it’s a 5-minute taxi 3rd Duke of Marlborough, who fancied this of the local swan population: a ritual that
ride to Bray. Fringilla rent boats for trips down the Thames. scenic spot as his private fishing retreat. He dates back to the 12th century, when the
www.thetrainline.com; www.fringilla.co.uk commissioned two Palladian buildings here, Crown claimed ownership of all mute swans.
the Temple and the Pavilion. The latter – now Some six miles downstream, in contrast to
EAT, DRINK, SLEEP the hotel’s lounge – has an extraordinary the quiet backwaters and quaint villages along
The newly restored Monkey Island Estate, on ceiling entirely decorated in singerie: this stretch of the river, is Windsor, boasting
a sliver of land on the Thames, has an impressive roster depictions of monkeys aping human the largest and oldest occupied castle in the
of historic guests, including Edward VII, Edward Elgar, behaviour, an artistic style that was world. The residence of 39 monarchs, it is
Nellie Melba and H G Wells. It’s a short walk across fashionable in France in the 18th century. said to be the Queen’s favourite home,
well-tended lawns from the luxurious Art Deco Back on the river, you can rent a boat and where she spends most weekends.
rooms to the restaurant, with a menu of British classics. go with the flow, or row upriver like Jerome’s Much of the castle is open to the public;
If you’re treating yourself to a meal at one of Bray’s heroes, who enjoyed a rare moment of peace highlights include Queen Mary’s famous
Michelin-starred establishments, book months in advance. at nearby Cliveden: the woods here “rose up dolls’ house and St George’s Chapel, site of
The Fat Duck is the one for adventurous diners, while for from the water’s edge, in one long harmony of 2018’s wedding of Prince Harry to Meghan
a classic French feast, the Waterside Inn won’t disappoint. blended shades of fairy green. In its unbroken Markle. Time your visit to coincide with the
www.monkeyislandestate.co.uk; www.thefatduck.co.uk; loveliness this is, perhaps, the sweetest stretch Changing the Guard ceremony
www.waterside-inn.co.uk of all the river”. The afternoon tea at Cliveden (see www.rct.uk/visit/windsor-castle), when
House, once a ducal residence, now a luxury colourfully attired soldiers march through
FURTHER INFORMATION hotel, is pretty sweet too: bite-sized delicacies town and into the castle, led by a regimental
i www.visitsoutheastengland.com themed around red velvet cake. brass band.
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ERS’
ISE
Stour, through
landscapes as pretty as a picture
WORDS NEIL JONES
RURAL BRITAIN
he great English artist Thomas Outstanding Natural Beauty to Cattawade near Top right: Thatched
Gainsborough, born in 1727 in the Suffolk Manningtree where the river joins the estuary. cottages in Cavendish
Bottom right: Kentwell
town of Sudbury on the River Stour, once Maybe bring your sketchbook and be inspired
Hall's Drawing Room
mused that he wanted nothing more than like Gainsborough and Constable. Previous page: Swans on
to “walk off to some sweet village, where I can paint In its upper reaches the Stour meanders past the River Stour at
Landskips and enjoy the fag End of Life in quietness attractive little villages like the Thurlows before Sudbury Water
and ease…” heading eastwards towards a series of Suffolk’s Meadows, Suffolk
PHOTOS: © IAN MERTON/ROBERT WYATT/ALAMY/GUY EDWARDES/GETTY/ILLUTSTRATION: © LAURA HALLETT

Separated by 16 miles and five decades, John gorgeous medieval ‘wool’ villages and towns. In the
Constable, born at East Bergholt in 1776, would 15th and 16th centuries, the local area was among
be even more specific in expressing his love for the wealthiest places in England, producing cloth
England’s countryside when he declared: “I associate that was exported around Europe, and the legacy
my careless boyhood with all that lies on the banks of those heydays now assails you with the most
of the Stour; those scenes made me a painter.” beguiling streetscapes of merchants’ timber-framed
To this day the River Stour, connecting the two houses and weavers’ cottages, their pastel-coloured
artists, runs through unspoilt scenery that can walls wonky and warped by time. Watching over
make you feel like you are stepping right into their them are churches, endowed and embellished by the
beautiful pastoral paintings. Rising at Wratting super-rich clothiers who sought by their deeds to
Common in Cambridgeshire, the river flows in steps store up treasures in heaven as well as on earth.
south and east to the sea at Harwich, and for many Drop into the grand wool church at Clare and
miles forms the border between Essex and Suffolk: explore the market town’s history in the Ancient
once a major trade route, now a passport House Museum, a 14th-/15th-century building noted
to peaceful water meadows, woodland and for its pargeting: decorative plasterwork typical of
villages whose church steeples prick huge skies. Suffolk and Essex. Neighbouring Cavendish is famed
You can shadow the river by car along road for its quintessentially quaint village green fringed
and lane, or walk some or all of the 60-mile by cottages that are overlooked by the handsome
Stour Valley Path from Newmarket near the flint-dressed church. Long Melford then beckons
river’s source, through the Dedham Vale Area of with another superb wool church, irresistible
RURAL BRITAIN
antiques shops and tearooms, and no fewer than two Top left: Mr and
Tudor mansions: redbrick Melford Hall, still lived in Mrs Andrews by
Gainsborough
by the Hyde Parker family, and moated Kentwell Hall
Bottom left: The
and Gardens, home to the Phillips family whose River Stour at Nayland
immersive Tudor living history recreations Right: An aerial view of
have become legends of modern times. Clare village and its
With a broad-brush sweep of the Stour’s upper- medieval church
stage surroundings now on your canvas, head for
Sudbury, edged by ancient commons and meadows.
The medieval woollen trade, river and railway, and
a 19th-century silk industry, all helped the town to
prosper; indeed silk weaving continues to this day
at four companies, who between them produce 95
per cent of the UK’s silk. Lighters (Stour barges)
depicted in many of John Constable’s famous
paintings of the working river once frequented
Sudbury, transporting wool, grain and brick
between the town and Mistley on the estuary.
The restored Georgian Granary warehouse is
PHOTOS: ©SIMPLY SUFFOLK IMAGES/ALAMY/BRIDGEMAN/TRAVELLINGLIGHT/ALAMY
RURAL BRITAIN
RURAL BRITAIN
RURAL BRITAIN
Even in the artist’s own lifetime, scenery around

Dedham Vale became known as Constable Country
occupied by the River Stour Trust, which offers

visitors boat trips, including by authentic lighter.
Of course, Sudbury is most associated with Thomas
Gainsborough (1727–88). His childhood home, now
Gainsborough’s House museum on Gainsborough
Street, is currently undergoing major refurbishment
(re-opening summer 2021), but in the Information
Centre next door you can book onto heritage tours
of Gainsborough sites in and around Sudbury; or
walk the Gainsborough Trail across the meadows.
The youngest of nine children born to
a sometime milliner-turned-postmaster,
Gainsborough showed a precocious talent for
drawing and painting, and he loved to sketch in
the woods and fields around Sudbury. He later
made a living here and elsewhere as a portrait
painter to the gentry and well-to-do, counting
King George III among clientele, and he became
a founding member of the Royal Academy in 1768.
While “The curs’d face business” paid his wages,
Gainsborough really preferred painting landscapes
PHOTO: © BRIDGEMAN/STEPHEN ASHMORE/ALAMY
(considered a rather lowly branch of art at the

time) and he innovatively fused the two genres, for
example in his celebrated ‘conversation piece’ Mr
and Mrs Andrews (c.1748–50), whose landscape
is reminiscent of Sudbury’s countryside. Moreover
Left: View of Willy Lott's his representations of scenes full of flickering
House near Flatford Mill,
as painted by Constable light and shade, like Cornard Wood (1748) near
Above: The Hay Sudbury, helped to establish landscape painting
Wain by Constable as an English genre to be taken seriously.
RURAL BRITAIN
THE PLANNER
GETTING THERE & AROUND
The Stour Valley and Dedham Vale are easily reached
by car, being under 2hrs drive from London and around
40min–1hr from Cambridge. Rail stations include Sudbury,
Newmarket, Manningtree, Colchester and Ipswich.
www.thetrainline.com
Routes to explore include Cycling Through a Masterpiece
and walks in ten stages along the 60-mile Stour Valley Path.
www.dedhamvalestourvalley.org
EAT, DRINK, SLEEP

The 15th-century Black Lion at Long Melford serves
regional fare, such as Suffolk charcuterie, and has ten
individually styled bedrooms ranging from cosy snugs
to a luxury suite. The Sun Inn, Dedham offers traditional
coaching-inn comforts and seven smart en suite
bedrooms, and can also provide bikes for exploring.
www.theblacklionhotel.com; www.thesuninndedham.com
FURTHER INFORMATION
i www.visitsuffolk.com; www.visitessex.com
Born at East Bergholt, one of six children, John

(1776–1837) had been expected to follow his father
Golding Constable into the family business running
a windmill there, flour mills at Flatford and Dedham,
and a string of lighters on the Stour. But inspired
by the local landscapes (he once said, “I fancy I see
a Gainsborough in every hedge and hollow tree”)
John set his heart on painting which, after a while,
his father supported.
Visit St James’s Church at Nayland and St Mary’s
Church at Dedham and you can view two rare
portraits of Christ painted by Constable. Then
make for Flatford, nowadays managed by the
National Trust, to find out about Constable’s life and
landscape work in the exhibition in Bridge Cottage.
Recognition for his skill was slow in coming but his
ability to capture scenes with atmospheric freshness
of light and colour (he said “Painting is a science,
and should be pursued as an enquiry into the laws
Top: The village of Following the Stour as it wiggles south from of nature”) has made his masterpieces hugely
Dedham in Essex Sudbury, you pass fascinating Norman-origin popular (and valuable).
Bottom: Artists painting at the churches scattered to the west, at Middleton, Great Many of Constable’s best-loved works are rooted
National Trust's Flatford Mill
Henny and Lamarsh. Stained glass in St Andrew’s in Dedham Vale. So round off your tour in style,
PHOTOS: © GEOGPHOTOS/PAUL WESTON/ALAMY
Church at Wormingford, on the edge of Dedham boating and literally wandering through his
Vale, features a strange creature that gave the paintings, exploring scenes that gave rise to The
settlement its own version of the George and the Hay Wain (you can still see Willy Lott’s House),
Dragon legend, while in the churchyard you will The Mill Stream, Flatford Mill, The Lock and
find the tombs of John Constable’s Uncle Abram, many more. Then put the finishing touches to
Aunt Mary and their children: ‘The Wormingford your own work of art.
Folk’ as he called them.
Even in the artist’s own lifetime, scenery around  For more suggestions on what to see and do in rural Britain,
Dedham Vale became known as Constable Country. visit www.britain-magazine.com
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TOP 10
CHESTER
With its own historic racecourse and a unique shopping experience, the
Roman city of Chester is packed with pastimes both ancient and modern
WORDS JENNY ROWE
espite, or perhaps as a result of, – streets of galleried shops that today makes
being well and truly outgrown Chester one of the most compact shopping
by neighbouring Liverpool and destinations in the UK. The English Civil
Manchester, Chester arguably retains far War starved the city’s population until they
more history and charm than both. Its claims surrendered, whereupon geological rather
to fame are so numerous that on several than societal evolution became the governing
counts it puts even the capital to shame. power in the remapping of Chester.
Chester's history extends almost two The harbour gradually silted up and the
millennia, beginning life as a Roman fort port was virtually gone by the Georgian
PHOTO: © JANE SWEENEY/AWL IMAGES/ILLUSTRATION: © LIZ K AY
known as Deva and named after the River era. Elegant new houses were built to house
Dee at its heart. Thanks to a large harbour wealthy merchants, and the county town
and imposing city walls, it was one of the of Chester bloomed in the Victorian period.
most important settlements of the time, Now, though rich with history, Chester
until the Dark Ages, when Viking raiders sailed also attracts rowdy racegoers and shrewd
up the river in their longships and attacked. shoppers to enjoy its modern-day
Following the Norman invasion in 1066, entertainment, cultivating a lively yet leisurely
William I created the first Earl of Chester, who atmosphere. Its array of architecture makes
constructed Chester Castle. While the city it one of the prettiest cities in Europe,
thrived as a trading port, the Rows were built as voted by readers of USA Today.
CITY GUIDE
1
Roman city walls Chester’s Roman
walls alone are reason enough
to come to the city. Not only
are they the most complete in Britain
– Chester retains the full circuit of
its ancient defences – they are also
the longest and oldest in Britain, dating
back almost 2000 years in some parts.
With panoramic views over the city
and Cheshire, once enabling Roman
soldier patrols and medieval archers to
spot threats from afar, today the walls
can be freely accessed at Northgate,
Eastgate, Watergate and Bridgegate.
www.visitcheshire.com
2
The Roodee During the Roman occupation,
most of the present-day racecourse was
underwater, part of the harbour that
supplied the garrison of Deva. Centuries after the
Romans left, an island developed where a cross was
built, hence the name, which means “Island of the
Cross”. In 1539, the mayor introduced an annual
horse race here and the racecourse was born.
www.chester-races.com
3
The Rows 700 years old and half-timbered, the Rows
in Chester are not only unmatched around the
world but they contain a bounty of distinguished
boutiques and engender a bustling café culture. These
high galleries can be reached via steps at street level and
though some are Victorian copies, look out for original
facades such as the Three Old Arches on Bridge Street.
www.visitcheshire.com
CITY GUIDE
4
Chester Cathedral Climbing
216 steps up the 125-ft
Central Tower will give you
the best view in Chester: one city,
two countries and five counties.
Originally a Saxon Minster, the
cathedral’s award-winning tours
take you in the footsteps of the
monks who founded a Benedictine
Abbey here in 1092, as well as into
the Victorian bell tower. The church
was rebuilt from 1250 onwards
in the Gothic style, making it an
interesting architectural patchwork.
PHOTOS: © TRAVELLINGLIGHT/MARK SANDBACH/ALAMY/FRANK FELL/ENGLISH HERITAGE/GEORGE STANDEN/ISTOCK/CHRIS HOWS/WILD PLACES PHOTOGRAPHY/SAMTOM
www.chestercathedral.com
5
The Eastgate Clock Britain’s second most
photographed clock after Big Ben, the Eastgate
Clock is built on a gateway first constructed
in the second century, though the existing structure
dates back to the Georgian period. The four-faced
timepiece itself was added in 1899 to celebrate the
diamond jubilee of Queen Victoria two years earlier.
www.smithofderby.com
6
Chester Castle Founded by William
the Conqueror and originally built
as a motte-and-bailey castle in 1070,
Chester Castle was the administrative
centre of the earldom. Admire the
13th-century wall paintings hidden
within the Chapel of St Mary de Castro
on the first floor of the Agricola Tower.
7
Grosvenor Park Dating back to 1867, this Grade II*-listed ornamental
park is a haven for residents and visitors alike, with its own miniature
railway, café and open-air theatre. At the western edge, Chester
Roman Gardens features excavated fragments from the former fortress.
www.grosvenorparkchester.co.uk
CITY GUIDE
8
Old Dee Bridge The oldest bridge in the city was first built
out of wood in 922. It is rumoured that when King Edward I
crossed it on the way to battle with the Welsh he promised that
he would sack the city if it wasn’t upgraded to stone before his next
visit. Luckily, by 1280 and his return, the current bridge was in its
place. Cross over onto the south side and the district of Handbridge
to visit the riverside Ship Inn or Cheshire Farm Ice Cream.
www.historicengland.org.uk
9
Chester Zoo The second most-visited
UK attraction outside London,
Chester Zoo is home to 27,000
animals. From the aardvark to the zebra,
the colourful array promises a day of
discovery. If flora is more your thing, don’t
miss the award-winning gardens, including
the Orchids National Plant Collection, the
Bee Garden and The Botanist’s Lab.
www.chesterzoo.org
THE PLANNER
GETTING THERE
Direct trains from London Euston to Chester run hourly and take 2hrs.
www.thetrainline.com
WHERE TO STAY
Oddfellows is a boutique hotel slightly on the quirkier side. Its design style
is rooted in the building’s previous life as a meeting place for the Oddfellows
society of misfits and creatives. Located in the Georgian Oddfellows Hall,
rooms are filled with fun and functional accessories and the promise of a good
night's sleep, while the walled garden is the cherry on top.
www.oddfellowschester.com
10
Chester Roman Amphitheatre Used for WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
PHOTOS: © UK CITY IMAGES/STEVE GILL/ALAMY
entertainment and military training, A traditional afternoon tea in the decadent surroundings of The Chester
Chester’s amphitheatre was the Grosvenor allows you to indulge in French pastries, scones and hand-made
largest in Britain. Both amphitheatres built sandwiches made by award-winning chefs.
on this site differed from other British designs, The Albion Inn offers something a little different. The last remaining
highlighting the importance of Roman Victorian street-corner pub within the city walls, it recreates the ambience
Chester. Time your visit to coincide with of the First World War through its collection of memorabilia.
one of the city’s fierce re-enactment events. www.chestergrosvenor.com; www.albioninnchester.co.uk
SUBSCRIBE AND
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to make your hair stand on end
UK PRICES OVERSEAS PRICES
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www.chelseamagazines.com/CSCOBRT9
USA & Canada 800-925-8215 quoting KB96SA
Rest of the World +44 (0)1858 438 898 quoting CSCOBRT9
Albro House Hotel
155 Sussex Gardens, Hyde Park, London W2 2RY
Tel: +44 (0)20 7724 2931 / +44 (0)20 7706 8153 Fax: +44 (0)20 7262 2278
E-mail: albrohotellondon@gmail.com Website: www.albrohotel.co.uk
Located near Hyde Park, public transport and convenient for sightseeing and shopping.
Comfortable, cosy, newly re-furbished ensuite rooms, with Freeview TV, tea/coffee
welcome tray, phone, radio, hairdryer. Friendly efficient service. Quiet, relaxed atmosphere.
Some parking. Families and small groups welcome. Tours booked. Free daytime luggage
storage. Free WiFi. Discounts for booking direct with hotel
Rates per person including cooked Low High
English breakfast & all taxes Season Season
Single rooms from £46 to £58 £58 to £84
Twin / double rooms from £34 to £48 £50 to £73
Family (3 or 4) per person from £32 to £40 £38 to £48
A GOOD VALUE HOTEL IN CENTRAL LONDON
HIRE‘N’HIRE
Diversitea Cafe offers the
ultimate tea experience...
our range of specialiteas
are served in beautiful
Family run business for 33 years vintage china.
CAR HIRE
Serving MANCHESTER, LIVERPOOL AIRPORTS
Made-to-order sandwiches
and paninis offered daily and
a selection of scrumptious,
PERSONAL ATTENTIVE SERVICE home-baked cakes with
A real person will answer the phone!
gluten-free options.
Rates from £125.64 p.wk. inc. VAT & ins. Whether it’s a quiet cuppa
Manuals and Autos
Be reassured, at Hire ‘N’ Hire there are no additional charges at point of sale, with a friend, afternoon tea,
and no retrospective fuel charges. What we quote is what you pay. or a celebration, make it a
HIRE‘N’HIRE Leigh, Lancs, WN7 2EA
memorable occasion
at Diversitea.
Tel: +44 1942 676406
also in West Yorkshire • +44 1422 316060 Corn Hall, Market Place, Cirencester GL72NY | Tel: 01285 655855
sales@hirenhire.co.uk • www.hirenhire.co.uk www.diversiteacafe.co.uk | Instagram: @diversiteacafe
Every nest box purchased helps support

the work we do at our wildlife sanctuary,
caring and rehabilitating the injured and
orphaned wildlife brought to us.
We produce wildlife nest boxes for
Owls, Birds of Prey, Bats, Dormice and
garden birds.
All boxes are handmade in our own
A beautiful collection of over 550 luxury, self-catering holid
oliday workshop in the UK. Boxes are made of
properties, sleeping 2-24 in the UK and Ireland recycled plastic, and exterior plywood
www.ruralretreats.co.uk Orders can be placed on line or by phone

www.theowlbox.co.uk | sales@theowlbox.co.uk | 01248 421091
Or call (+44) 01386 897 959 for our 2019 brochure The Owl Box, Tyddyn Waen, Llangaffo, Gaerwen. Anglesey LL60 6LP
St Davids Cathedral
London Visit this 12th century building
Apartments and see the newly restored
shrine of St David.
Concerts • Refectory
Established 1980
Bookshops • Daily services
THE INDEPENDENT TRAVELLER Disabled access
• Inspected apartments
• Personal but fast replies to all enquiries • No boxes to tick Open 9am to 5pm
Contact Mary and Simon Pembrokeshire SA62 6RD
Tel: +44 (0) 1392 860807 T: +44 (0) 1437 720202
E: info@stdavidscathedral.org.uk
Email: maryandsimon@btinternet.com
Web: www.visitapartmentslondon.co.uk www.stdavidscathedral.org.uk
Airport and city transfers
Cotswold Tours
Mercedes vehicles
cotswoldchauffeurs.co.uk
01684 214573
Charming waterside
museum in historic
King’s Cross building
Discover the
tradition of roses and
castles painting
Two floors of
London’s canal story
 See inside a
traditional cabin
www.canalmuseum.org.uk
Discover the
forgotten Victorian
ice trade and peer
down into an ice
well below ground
Open Tuesdays to
Sundays
Close to King’s
Cross station
Easy access for all
including disabled
Reg Charity 277484
HIDDEN GEMS
PHOTO: © CLAIRE DAVIES

The Charterhouse
The high walls of this historic London site have concealed everyone from
monks and royals to schoolboys and ‘Brothers’ in need
WORDS CHARLOTTE BORGER
F
or centuries the Charterhouse lay hidden behind imposing or other calamity’, as well as Charterhouse School for impoverished
high walls, with few knowing what lay within. In 2017, parts scholars. The school has since moved to Surrey, while the almshouse
of the wall were removed, an eye-catching new entrance was continues to flourish right in the heart of London to this day.
created, and this extraordinary seven-acre historic site, nestling A tour of the site reveals thrilling episodes, from the grisly
between Barbican and Farringdon in the City of London, was martyrdom of Carthusian monks to the dodging and diving of Tudor
revealed to the public for the first time. nobleman Edward North; from the preparations of a young Elizabeth
The site dates back to 1348, when the Black Death ravaged I prior to her coronation to tales of the early students of Charterhouse
London and the land was used as a burial ground – startling School, including William Makepeace Thackeray and John Wesley.
evidence of which was unearthed a few years ago, when the new The stunning buildings have compelling stories to tell – look
Crossrail railway started tunnelling its way through the area. out for the portraits of the many Dukes associated with the
The Charterhouse was built in 1371 as a Carthusian monastery Charterhouse; the carved graffiti on panelling and windows; and
– Europe’s largest – which flourished right up to early Tudor times. the decorations ordered for the Great Chamber by the 4th Duke of
After the Dissolution, the building became a Tudor mansion, home to Norfolk while he was under house arrest, which appear to give away
nobility and a refuge for royalty; having closed down the monastery his treacherous loyalties. The museum, free to explore, is packed
here Henry VIII stored his hunting equipment in the church. with intriguing details about the building’s previous inhabitants.
But the Charterhouse is not just a piece of ancient heritage; To immerse yourself in the site’s turbulent history, it’s worth taking
it has played an important part in England’s social history from one of the daily tours – either with a professional guide or with one
the 17th century on – and is still fulfilling its charity mission today. of the current residents of the almshouse. Still known as the Brothers
In 1611 Thomas Sutton bought the Charterhouse and established (though women are now welcome too), the residents give a unique
a charitable foundation that provided for up to 80 Brothers: ‘either perspective on the history through the eyes of someone still benefitting
decrepit or old captaynes either at sea or at land, maimed or disabled from the legacy left by Thomas Sutton over four centuries ago.
soldiers, merchants fallen on hard times, those ruined by shipwreck www.thecharterhouse.org
AWARD-WINNING PRIVATE
TOURS FOR THE DISCERNING
www.bhctours.co.uk | info@bhctours.co.uk | +44 (0)1296 620173
- - -
Our testimonials say it all!

Britain - November 2019

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