Apparel and Fashion Design

Parameters of Quality Standard between

Indian and International Brands.

Submitted To :
Dr. Meeta
(Faculty)

Submitted By :
Saumya Saxena
M.Design
Quality may define as the level of acceptance of goods or services. It is a relative term. It
completely depends on customer satisfaction.

Actually product quality is based on product attribute. In textile and apparel industry, quality is
calculated in terms of quality and standard of fibers, yarns, fabric construction, color
fastness, designs and the final finished garments.

Quality is very important in apparel business. Customers demand and expect is the supreme
importance in garment business because of clothing trends become change with short time
period.

There are various factors on which quality fitness of apparel industry is based such as -
performance, reliability, durability, visual and perceived quality of the garment.

Quality control in garment manufacturing technology:

In the apparel industry quality control is practiced right from the initial stage of sourcing raw
materials to the stage of final finished garment. Quality control in garment industry is very
complex and lengthy task. There are several stages to control quality in garment manufacturing.

1. Pre-production quality control

2. Quality control during production
3. Final inspection
4. Quality control to developing a sampling plan
5. Post-production quality evaluation

Pre-Production Planning

In pre-production quality control, each component of a garment is tested prior to assembling.

Closures, interlinings, sewing threads, and other design elements are tested for their quality
and durability. Fabric with too many defects or closures that do not work properly can
be detected prior to construction, which saves time and money in the long run.
Fabric, accessories, closures, interlinings, sewing threads, and other design elements are
all tested prior to the garment manufacturing in the pre-production quality control phase.
Fabric Quality

Fabric quality is of utmost importance to the overall quality of apparel and textile
products. Regardless of how well a product is designed or constructed, if the fabric is of poor
quality, the product will most likely to fail with the consumer. Most fabric is comprised of fibers
that are spun into yarns and then woven or knitted into fabric. Support materials like interlinings
usually go from the fiber to the fabric stage. Since fibres are the building blocks of all apparel
and textile products, it is important to start with quality fibers regardless if they are natural,
manufactured, regenerated, or synthetic. Fabric should keep the following properties.

Comfort: Comfort is very important fabric property. It comfort is studied by looking at fabric
in terms of elongation and elasticity, heat retention and conduction, moisture absorbency,
water repellency, waterproofing, hand and skin contact, drape, and air permeability.

Colorfastness: Colorfastness relates to appearance retention and can be described as

“how consumers use textile products and include factors that may cause colorants to
change color or migrate from one material to another”. Colorfastness is studied by exposing
the fabric to different conditions including acids and alkalis, crocking,
environmental conditions, frosting, heat, light, perspiration, or water.

Durability: Durability evaluates “how various materials used in a product perform when
subjected to different conditions”. Durability of a fabric is tested until it fails, and both warp
and weft yarns are tested. There are many ways to assess fabric durability, including
strength (tensile, tear, and bursting), abrasion, and pilling, snagging, and dimensional
stability.

Quality inspection of other accessories:

Garment accessories are inspected in the same manner as other textile and apparel products.
Accessories are checked during preproduction, production, and post production with a final
inspection. Various fashion accessories include closures, interlinings, sewing threads, elastic
waistband, and other design elements.
Closures: Closure strength and durability is extremely important to garment construction
and consumer satisfaction. Closures for apparel and textiles products include
zippers, buttons, hooks, snap fasteners, drawstrings, hook-and-loop fasteners, and others.

Interlinings: Interlinings, also called interfacing, are generally nonwoven fabrics that add
more structure and body to garment components like collars, button plackets,
waistbands, and cuffs. Interlinings may be fusible or sew-on. Interlining durability is
important for garment construction.

Sewing threads: Sewing thread is the yarn used to combine two or more fabric pieces
together in garments, accessories, and other textile products. Thread encompasses the
majority of the stress and strain from movement and needs to be strong and durable. It
must resist breaking and be compatible with the rest of the garment in terms of color, care
instructions, and construction. Sewing thread should be free from imperfections such
as knots, slubs, thick and thin places.

Elastic waistband: Elastic waistbands are tested for fit (as per size) and durability (loss of
elasticity). The fit is measured by the force needed to stretch the waistband about 200 more
than the hip size (as per the size label) and bringing back to the waist size. The durability
can be measured by stretching the waistband by 50% and measuring the force needed to
stretch it. The loss of force in the two cases should be less than 10% for the waistband to
be acceptable.

Conclusion

If quality properly controlled then costs remain at an acceptable level and customers be
satisfied because quality is ultimately a question of customer satisfaction. We can say that
quality control in terms of apparel manufacturing, pre-sales and posts sales service,
delivery, pricing, are essential for any garment manufacturer, trader or exporter. For getting
quality garments have to use latest technology and well trained worker to give best output
and complete planning before the production.
Comparitive study of International and Indian Men’s Shirt
Brands on the basis of above standards:

List of International Brand for Men‟s Shirt :

 Nautica
 Gant
 Arrow
 Van Heusen
 Wrangler

List of Indian Brand for Men‟s Shirt:

 Raymonds
 Peter England
 Blackberrys
 John Players
 Parx
 Men’s Shirt
Analysis of Quality Construction

 Fabric Pattern Matching

An easy way to check the quality of a shirt is how well the pattern of a checked shirt is lined up
at a few critical seams. If it is well done, then it is will likely to find all the other hallmarks of a
good shirt as well. The following areas should be matched perfectly.

1. shoulder to sleeve
2. pocket (if any)
3. split yoke
4. sleeve to sleeve placket
5. shirt fronts and front placket
6. Of course you can match the pattern on the side seams as well, though this is not seen
very often

Matching the fabric pattern in all these areas demands great skill of the manufacturer and hence
it is usually only achieved by experienced professionals, who know how to assemble a shirt with
the utmost skill, care and attention. Most shirtmakers use needle tables, where each shirt
component is aligned individually and placed one by one on top of the other, to achieve this kind
of perfection. If you opt for folded shirred shirt sleeves on your sleevehead (aka spalla con
grinze), it is impossible to match the pattern perfectly.
  Pattern Development

Even for experienced hands, it is very difficult to produce the exact same fit over and over again
because high end shirt manufacturing requires so many manual step and humans do things a
little differently every time. The more steps in the shirt making process that are done by hand,
the higher the chance a shirt will be inconsistent at the end. At the same time, handmade details
provide a shirt with a unique feel and beauty that‟s unmatched.

In order to deliver the best of both worlds, most quality shirt manufacturers rely on carefully
developed patterns that are used every time that particular model is produced. Body patterns
are usually cut from thick paper, whereas collars and cuffs are sometimes made out of metal to
ensure absolute accuracy.

 Stitching

Stitch density, as well as consistency, is a good way to judge the workmanship of a shirt. Tightly
woven fabric should have a very high density of stitches, which results in an elegant look and
durability. Very delicate open weave shirts sometimes require slightly larger stitches in order not
to destroy the fabric but if that‟s the case, your shirt maker knows about that.

For custom shirts, you can also determine how far away you want the stitching from the edge.
Most classic shirts feature 8mm stitches, while formal tuxedo shirts sometimes only have 1mm
or 2mm stitches to create a more elegant look. As a rule of thumb, whatever they choose,
ensure that the top-stitching on your collar and the cuff are the same, otherwise it looks
unfavorable.
  Side Seams

Traditionally side seams can be finished either with twin-needle or single-needle stitching.
Higher-end shirts will always use single-needle because it provides a cleaner look and dressier
appearance, making it perfect for dress shirts (it is also more difficult to produce). Twin-needle
stitching is commonly found on more relaxed or casual shirts and is easily recognized by two
rows of stitches running along the side. Due to the different materials of thread and fabric, the
area between the needle stitches will wrinkle heavily after a few washed, which is why every
dress shirt should have single-needle stitching.

 Collar

The collar is the most striking feature on a shirt, and is usually visible at all times. Therefore, it is
crucial to choose the right style for your face and wardrobe. For custom shirts, there are almost
endless variations and some MTM manufacturers offer the deviate from their standard collars to
get you exactly what you want. There is no right or wrong in regard to collar styles, but whatever
they choose, it should be a well-made collar.

The first thing you should pay attention to in a collar is the type of interlining used and whether it
is fused or non-fused. Collars are generally made from two pieces of fabric: top and bottom, with
some interlining in between. These layers can either be held together by heating and gluing
them (fused) or simply by sewing them together (non-fused). As with fabrics, collar interlinings
are available in different weights, which result in different stiffness or softness.
  Yoke

The yoke is the back part of the shirt that connects neck and shoulders and may assume a
variety of shapes and patterns depending on the shirt model. Commonly, the yoke is made of
one piece of fabric.

However, on custom shirts, it makes sense to have a split yoke so the varying degree of your
sloped shoulders can be accommodated correctly. Also, a split-back yoke can help to match the
shirt pattern on the sleeve head. A split yoke is also often used on higher end RTW shirts, but
since they are symmetrical, the impact is limited.

 Trimmings

Besides fabrics and construction, there are other elements that are also invaluable to a shirt‟s
aesthetic and that are usually overlooked as mere accessories. Trimmings play a huge role in
the outcome of a luxury shirt, be it the quality and shine on the stitching yarns, the beauty of the
buttons or even the choice and quality of the interlinings.

For dress shirt buttons, mother-of-pearl is the standard worldwide. Of course, like with so many
things, there are various qualities of mother of pearl, with the better ones featuring a more
beautiful luster

For casual shirts, corozo or horn buttons are good alternatives, whereas plastic buttons simply
look cheap. Some people prefer flat buttons, which are easier to button but more prone to
break, while other try to use the thickest buttons they can get their hand on.

In any case, the top button on collar should always be slim because it really facilitated buttoning
shirt and it will wear out the top buttonhole much more slowly than if you have a 4- or 5mm-thick
collar button.
For interlinings, the best come from Germany or Switzerland and the shirt maker should always
be able to tell who supplies them and what options one have.

Ascolite Thread

Few things are as annoying as losing one‟s shirt buttons. High-quality shirts usually feature
buttons that are sewn on by hand with a shank. The extra space between button and shirt fabric
is important because there will be two layers of cloth when its buttoned and without a shank you
will see centric wrinkles around every button. However, the excessive use of laundry detergent
and general wear and tear can weaken the thread and sooner or later some of your buttons will
fall off.

In recent years, the company Ascolite developed an extremely resistant and elastic thread, that
is ideal for attaching all kinds of buttons and prevents them from falling off. This detail is usually
not found at bespoke tailors but only a few high-end shirtmakers. Below, you can see how it is
done.
  Sleeves

An important feature of shirts is the sleeves and the way they are sewn to the shirt. Most of the
time, the sleeves are sewn on in the process of sewing the entire shirt together. This is less
expensive and the sleeves rarely hang perfectly. Also it can feel constricting to the wearer.
Ideally, the shirt sleeve should be sewn on at the very end, so they are rotated to the perfect
position for the wearer. This is a detail hardly any shirt manufacturer offers.

When you look at the area of the armpit most shirts will match the side seam with the sleeve
seam which is not ideal and indication that they weren‟t set in properly. If these two seems don‟t
match, they were set in at the end of the process, and chances are they drape better with fewer
wrinkles and the shirt is more comfortable to wear.

 Monograms

Monograms have become very popular even with low-end Made-to-Measure providers and
haberdashers. Unfortunately, people don‟t think about the history of monograms and add them
in various places in all kinds of colors. Traditionally, gentlemen only wore white shirts and often
changed many times a day. In order to keep the shirts separated in the laundry, they had tone-
in-tine monograms on the waistband or inside the collar, so you‟d hardly ever see them.

Today, people sometimes choose to have their monogram put on the chest pocket or even
worse the cuff or collar. This is rather tasteless and hence you should have your monograms
just above the natural waist, or in a place where it can‟t be seen too often. Luxury shirts often
offer the option of having an entirely hand-embroidered monogram, which is the epitome of
skilled artisans and are harder and harder to find nowadays.

It goes without saying that shirts should never feature any visible logos on the chest
  Buttonholes

Ideally, a buttonhole should be cut first and then sewn. Many lower-end shirt buttonholes are
sewn first and then cut. Although this is less expensive, it leaves ugly threads behind.
Traditionally, buttonholes were hand-sewn and there are great differences in terms of the stitch
density and gimp thread used on custom shirts. Many Italian high-end RTW shirts feature hand-
sewn buttonholes as well because they are more expensive to produce.

However, machine-made buttonholes that are cut first and then sewn with a high stitch density
can be very beautiful as well. In regard to longevity, machine-made buttonholes will likely last
longer, while handmade ones are a tribute to craftsmanship
  Gussets

Some claim that gussets are a necessary part of a quality shirt, but in fact it is as difficult to
produce a neat side seam without one.

Analysis of Quality in Shirting Fabric

Shirting fabric is a kind of primarily cotton or cotton blend cloth used to make shirts. These
fabrics should be breathable, durable, pleasant to the touch, and comfortable to wear all year
round. That is why high thread count and yarn dyed structure are the essential features
of shirting fabrics.

The popularity of shirts all around the globe has contributed greatly to the diversity of the fabrics
they are made of: types of weave, fiber selection, design and pattern motifs. The variety of
shirting fabrics is captivating. One can choose pure cotton, linen or man-made fibers, opt for
finer or thicker options, go for vibrant or pastel shades, or try stripes, checks and floral. Shirting
fabrics are used both for formal and casual wear.

 Fabric

Cotton fabrics enjoy the highest popularity in the segment of formal shirts. At the same time,
when it comes to casual style, linen appears to be a superior fibre by lots of important criteria.

Linen has bactericidal properties which mean it is not afraid of bacteria or fungus.

Linen garments are easier to care for. Unlike cotton, linen fibres get stronger and better
cleanable with each washing. The best way to wash them is to select the gentle washing regime
and lukewarm water temperature settings in your machine and use a mild detergent to make
fibres less prone to damage.

Linen fibre is twice as durable as cotton, and four times more durable than wool.

Linen is a 'greener' option. It requires much less water for growing, while its moisture absorbing
capabilities are much higher compared to those of cotton, which means that you can wear linen
garments for a longer time. Both points appear to be decent pros for all environmentally-
conscious people.

All in all, both fabrics are breathable, hypoallergenic and have a good hand feel. Which one to
choose then? It depends on your needs: for a business look, nothing can be compared with
luxury long- and extra-long staple cotton fabrics of such precious sorts as Giza 45, Giza 87 and
88, Pima/Supima, and especially Sea Island.

However, if a corporate dress code is not the limiting factor, a linen shirt is a way more
promising option in many respects.

 Ply of the Yarn – Single and Double

One of the most important characteristics is single-ply or double-ply (a.k.a. '2-ply', „2-fold‟, „2-
twisted‟ or „double-twisted‟. „2-ply‟ means the presence of two tightly twisted threads both in
warp and weft, which endows it with four outstanding properties 1-ply fabrics lack.

1. Double-ply fabrics are more durable.

2. They can go through way more washings than single-ply fabrics.
3. They are not prone to pilling.
4. They have a smooth hand and a noble sheen.

Not all 2-ply fabrics are created equal. The higher-listed features are essential to the „2x2‟ 2-ply
fabrics having two threads both in warp and weft. In the „2x1‟ and „1x2‟ fabrics, the two threads
are used in the warp and one in the weft, and vice versa. Obviously, when it comes to durability,
the latter formula offers poorer characteristics.
  Non-iron Properties

The trick of the „non-iron‟ thing is in a special treatment of cloth with formaldehyde, which
danger for a human organism doesn‟t need to be explained much. Moreover, such fabrics don‟t
perform well in terms of durability and, which is even more frustrating; they still tend to wrinkle
during washing and wearing. Not surprisingly, such controversial technology is generally utilized
in the low-cost shirting fabric segment.

To be fair, some non-iron shirting fabric brands manage to go well without applying chemicals
by treating their fabrics with natural-based elements that prevent wrinkling. Moreover, these
textiles are also created of long-staple cotton fibres that meet the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 plus
— the desirable mark of fabric safety for health. For such fabric production, a twisted thread with
the fibre length of no less than 34 mm is used.

 Thread Count

Just like in case of wool fabrics, shirting ones are measured by fineness too. This criterion is the
ratio between fabric smoothness and durability: as the super number increases, the fabric
becomes smoother yet more prone to occasional tearing. The range varies from Super 50's to
Super 330's. The thread count above Super 100's is the feature of 2-ply fabrics only, which
means that two Super 50's (or higher) yarns are intertwisted to make a single thicker thread.

According to experts, the most optimal shirting is from Super 60's to Super 80's. Such fabrics
tend to wrinkle less than higher super numbers, and still remain very strong.
  Weave Types

weave type weave description application

Formal dress code, daily

A plain weave (the threads alternately cross over and then under each
poplin business look, special
other, with a vague striped appearance). Strong, durable, and smooth
occasions

Its square construction, made with an almost equal number of threads per Daily business look, free
zephyr
centimetre in warp and weft, results in airiness and exceptional breathability time

Numerous warp threads cross over an equal number of weft threads,

oxford (a.k.a.
forming a basket weave. Its distinction from a plain weave is in thicker yarns Free time
‘panama’)
resulting in a rough texture and high durability

A sort of the oxford weave: it creates a fairly grainy fabric with a weft that
pinpoint Formal
appears to be made by an infinite number of pinpoints

The weave creates a diagonal texture: a weft thread runs over and under
twill Formal, business trips
multiple warp threads

The classic wavy effect of piquet is created by warp threads with a higher Formal, daily business look
piquet
tension lowering the weft threads code

fil a fil (a.k.a Plain weave type comprising the pair of light and dark threads in warp and Daily business look, free
‘end-on-end’) weft to create a so-called „heathered effect‟ time

Delicate dotted or striped patterns featuring the same colours as the base Daily business look, special
dobby
material occasions

Jacquard weave with the application of a specific loom designed

jacquard Casual, free time
to produce patterned fabrics.
 Conclusion

Hence from the analysis of construction of quality, international brands always have great
quality standards which can go unnoticeable from an expert‟s eye. The finishing of the fabric is
supreme and hence they are priced high for suitability of details.

Indian brands on the other hand, are more commercial. They do keep in mind quality standards
but not to that extent which an international brand would adhere to. India has a large market to
cater but very few brands are exported and sell well abroad.

Italian made shirts are hence considered to be the best around the world as they take detailed
considerations into their making.