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instructables

How to make an Up-Cycled Pallet wood Sliding Barn Door

by billymccord

For the wood for this project I used all reclaimed a pallet material such as these.

Much of the pallets were collected last summer and the boards harvested, and left stacked outside to age naturally
for several months.

Click here for a full build article on my website.

Step 1: Make the Track

I started the project by making the track for the door, The track itself is 1/8² x 1-1/2² welding steel, the
so that it could be hung and then measurements rollers are 1-1/4² Screen Door Rollers. I used a plank
taken to build the door. For the track, mechanism and to back up the metal track to give it some rigidity and
related hardware I used items that can be purchased hold it away from the wall to clear the door and the
at most big box home stores. roller mechanism.

How to make an Up-Cycled Pallet wood Sliding Barn Door: Page 1


Step 2: Track Assembly

Once the track is mounted above the door measure track was 81² from the floor this allowed for 1/2²
the distance from the bottom of the track to the floor between the door and the track and a 1/2² under the
and the height of the track assembly. The distance door. You can then determine the length of the door
from the bottom of the track to the floor minus what hangers by adding the height of the track, plus the
ever gap you want between the track assembly and gap between the door and the bottom of the track
the door and the bottom of the door and the floor is then add a sufficient length to attach to the door side
the height of the door itself. because I wanted an 80² stiles.
door I mounted the track so that the bottom of the

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Step 3: Door Assembly

The door itself was created by re-sawing some larger center rail, with corresponding rabbits and used
pallet rails in to 1² stock using the rough sawn side pocket hole screws to attach as well but I left out the
with natural patina as the face. glue in case I needed to make adjustments during the
build process or if expansion of the slats were to
I mitered the corners and used water activated glue, cause problems down the road.
and pocket holes to connect the parts, I also cut a

Step 4: Smooth

To add to the aged look of the door I used my hand and handling etc.
planes to smooth the door some, but leaving natural
patina in some places. Don’t go over board here, you Once I had the frame rails and stiles looking the way I
just want to slightly refine the look of the lumber with wanted, I cut the “slats” and used a similar method to
out removing the all the highs and lows created when smooth then them fit them in to the door frame and
the lumber was sawn. You are trying to create an nailed in place with 1 -1/4 inch brand nails.
“Aged” look as if the door was removed from an old
structure, after years of being warn smooth by time,

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Step 5: Aging and Finish

I used various techniques to highlight the distressed field of the door.


features of the rough sawn lumber, such as blending
some flat black spray paint randomly placed in areas. Finally I sprayed 2 coats of lacquer over the entire
(again see the video for details) I wanted the frame to thing once it had dried for several hours with a light
appear slightly darker than the field of the door so I sand with a 100 grit sanding sponge between coats.
taped off the door, and applied a very heavy coat of
walnut stain tinted Danish oil, flooding the entire Build Video
surface of the rails and stiles and let it soak in not
wiping any off. Once this process was complete I Build Article
removed the tape and used natural Danish oil on the

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