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solutions driven by innovation | voyantbeauty.

com

Vee Pak, CEI, and Aware Products LA are now


Voyant Beauty—your partner for bringing
the most innovative personal care and beauty
products to market.

Visit us at CASCC, booth #269 to learn more about fast and flexible innovation.”

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9R\DQW%HDXW\&$6&&LQGG 30
September 2019

The Definitive Peer-Reviewed Cosmetic Science Resource

Color
Formulary
Preserving
Sunscreens

Probiotic
Skin Care

Sun Protection,
Dryness and
Microbe Imaging

CT1909_Cover_fcx.indd 1 8/19/19 10:42 AM


CT16_ad_template.indd 2 2/8/19 2:07 PM
Visit us at
CASCC
Suppliers’ Day
booth #168

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*&,BIXOOSDJHDGLQGG 30
Cover Story Contents | C&T
September 2019 | Volume 134, number 8
®

6 Editor’s Note
The Ultimate Think Tank
Beauty Accelerate 2019

10 Industry Insight
Sunscreen Dynamics and the ‘Reef Safe’ Dance
with M. Chandler

80 Ad Index

Testing

32
32 The Big Reveal
UV Imaging Uncovers Sun Protection,
Skin Dryness and Microbiome
by J. Crowther, Ph.D.

46 Back to Basics III


Testing for Preservation and Stability
by P. Yvon

Formulating
56 Formulating Forum: The New
Age of Sustainable Sunscreens
Formulating for Modern Sun Care Trends

68
by N. Lionetti

68 Preserve and Protect


Shielding the Sunscreen Umbrella
by S. Schmidt, et al.

78
68 From the Vault: Designing
Broad-Spectrum UV Absorbers

78 Color Cosmetics Formulary

DM31 Expanded Color Cosmetics Formulary

Peer-reviewed content, designated by this icon, ensures


the insights we deliver are vetted, authentic and reliable
for readers.

2 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019

CT1909_TOC_Masthead_fcx_DE.indd 2 8/27/19 4:29 PM


fulfilling the dream of
more natural sunscreens

antaron™ eco
ethylcellulose

New Antaron™ ECo ethylcellulose is a nature-derived film former that provides excellent water
resistance in light feeling emulsions and sprays.

FLSCC Sun Symposium booth #42 | CA SCC Suppliers Day booth #548 | In-Cos Asia stand #M30

ashland.com/eco

Š5HJLVWHUHGWUDGHPDUN$VKODQGRULWVVXEVLGLDULHVUHJLVWHUHGLQYDULRXVFRXQWULHVŒ7UDGHPDUN$VKODQGRULWVVXEVLGLDULHVUHJLVWHUHGLQYDULRXVFRXQWULHV
‹$VKODQG3+&

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Editor’s note | C&T ®
Contents | C&T ®

The Definitive Peer-Reviewed


Cosmetic Science Resource

EDITORIAL
Editor in Chief Jeb Gleason-Allured | 1-630-344-6069/jallured@allured.com
Senior Managing Editor Katie Anderson | 1-630-344-6077/kanderson@allured.com
Managing Editor Rachel L. Grabenhofer | 1-630-344-6072/rgrabenhofer@allured.com
Assistant Editor Brooke Schleehauf | 1-630-344-6032/bschleehauf@allured.com
News Editor Eden Stuart | 630-344-6053/estuart@allured.com

ADVERTISING SALES
Business Development Manager Jolly Patel | 1-630-344-6061/jpatel@allured.com
Fragrance Sales Paige Crist | 1-630-344-6060/pcrist@allured.com
Advertising Coordinator Kasia Smialkowski | 1-630-344-6025/ksmialkowski@allured.com

AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT
Marketing Specialist Katy Chitwood

DM13
Customer Service 1-847-559-7558/customerservice@cosmeticsandtoiletries.com

DESIGN
Design Manager Kim Fry
Graphic Designer James Fergus
Production Manager Bryan Crowe

Market Intelligence CORPORATE


Partner & CEO George Fox
Partner & President Janet Ludwig
12 Product Roundup: Multifunctional Solutions CFO Rich Winters
Director of Events Maria Prior
14 Technology Launches Digital Products Director Rose Southard
Executive Assistant Maria Romero

16 New! Expert Opinions


OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS
Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference

Research Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine: Portuguese edition


Global Cosmetic Industry magazine
Beauty Accelerate
18 Youth in Full Bloom Perfumer & Flavorist magazine
Flavorcon
Red Poppy Extract for Under-eye World Perfumery Congress
Circles and Sagging Skin Inc. magazine
Face & Body Midwest spa expo and conference
by M. Lefort, et al. Face & Body Northern California spa expo and conference
Face & Body Southeast spa expo and conference

DM13 Practical Probiotics


For Subscriptions: Subscribe online: www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/subscribe
Live Microbial Skin Benefits Without Limits For both the US and internationally, telephone: 1-847-559-7558
(8 AM–4:30 PM Central, Monday–Friday) Fax: 1-847-291-4816
by I. Meyer, et al. E-mail: customerservice@cosmeticsandtoiletries.com
Address: Cosmetics & Toiletries, PO Box 3009, Northbrook, IL 60065-3009
Print subscriptions: Available free to qualified individuals located in the United States.

DM18 [podcast] Beauty and the Microbiome All other countries may subscribe to the digital edition.
Periodicals Postage paid at Carol Stream, Illinois, and additional mailing offices.

Happily Ever After Change of address: In ordering a change of address, give both the old and new addresses. Allow two months for change to
become effective. The publisher will attempt to handle unsolicited articles with care, but the magazine assumes no respon-
with J. Cookson, Ph.D. sibility for them. Materials will be returned only if accompanied by a self-addressed envelope with return postage. Address
inquiries regarding editorial policy and writer guidelines to the editor. The acceptance of advertising does not necessarily
carry the endorsement of the publisher.

Cosmetics & Toiletries® (ISSN 0361-4387CTOIDG) is published ten times per year as Jan., Feb., March, April, May, June,
July/Aug., Sept., Oct. and Nov./Dec. by Allured Business Media.
Address: Cosmetics & Toiletries, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403.
www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
Peer-reviewed content, designated by this icon, ensures All correspondence regarding business, editorial, advertising and production should be sent to Cosmetic & Toiletries,
336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403. Periodicals postage paid at Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403 and
the insights we deliver are vetted, authentic and reliable additional mailing offices.
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POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Cosmetics & Toiletries, PO Box 3009, Northbrook, IL 60065-3009

Allured Business Media makes all attempts to publish accurate information; however, this publication may contain technical
inaccuracies or typographical errors. The reader assumes all risks concerning the suitability and accuracy of the information
within this publication. Allured Business Media assumes no responsibility for and disclaims all liability for any such
facebook.com/CandTmagazine @cosmeticsandtoiletries inaccuracies, errors or omissions in this publication and in other documentation referred to within or affiliated with
this publication.

Cosmetics & Toiletries Copyright 2019: Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited.

Cosmetics & Toiletries and C&T are registered trademarks of Allured Publishing Corporation.

4 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 133, No. 10 | November/December 2018

CT1909_TOC_Masthead_fcx_DE.indd 4 8/27/19 4:29 PM


THE FUSION OF Ancient wisdom meets advanced technology
For more than 3,000 years Withania somnifera
has been used in traditional Ayurvedic medicine.

ANCIENT WISDOM The healing properties of its roots help to


strengthen the immune system, calm mental stress

AND ADVANCED
and support skin vitality. With our optimized
in vitro cultivation of NeoPlanta® Withania, we
add even more benefits to the gifts of nature:

TECHNOLOGY controlled growth conditions without pesticides,


herbicides or social exploitation. Additionally,
our urban skin-balancing serum is vegan and free

NeoPlanta® Withania
from gluten and preservatives.

NeoPlanta® Withania is the first product from


Evonik Advanced Botanicals. Find out more
on our website.

www.evonik.com/personal-care

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Editor’s Note | C&T ®

The Ultimate Think Tank


Beauty Accelerate 2019
Rachel L. Grabenhofer
Managing Editor
rgrabenhofer@allured.com

The premier peer-reviewed


resource ensuring reliable
insights to meet cosmetic

I
consumer demands.
n 1985, the Journal of Product Innovation Management published a study on
the R&D/Marketing Interface in high-tech firms. Not surprisingly, the authors Scientific
found significant barriers existed between these two key product innovation Advisory Board
functions. How far have we come since then? Consultants are still brought
in-house to troubleshoot stop-gaps in product development, smooth out Eric Abrutyn
TPC2 Advisors Ltd.
communications and build collaborative cultures. We at Cosmetics & Toiletries
are still publishing about consumer versus scientific language and the reverse, Jean-Christophe Choulot
Caudalíe
translating data into claims.
Zoe Diana Draelos, M.D.
So it seems a universal truth that never the two shall meet—or could they? This Dermatology
idea served as the founding concept for an all-new event we’ve created for the Consulting Services
cosmetics and personal care industry: Beauty Accelerate. On October 15 in NYC, Angela R. Eppler, Ph.D.
the event will join beauty product stakeholders from companies of all sizes in Pfizer Consumer Healthcare
multiple event formats—with the goal of exchanging insights to develop unique Trefor Evans, Ph.D.
tools and more seamlessly integrate the entire product development process. TA Evans LLC/TRI Princeton

From a collaborative workshop, led by top consultants and beauty industry S. Peter Foltis
L’Oréal
forerunners, to a boutique-style exhibition of prototypes, IP, packaging,
turnkey solutions and more—plus curated roundtable discussions to network Mindy Goldstein, Ph.D.
Atlantic Coast Media Group
with industry thought leaders—it’s the ultimate think tank for beauty product
development that you won’t want to miss. John Jiménez
Belcorp Colombia

Karl Laden, Ph.D.


Register now, space is limited. Alpa Cosmetics

www.beautyaccelerate.com/register Prithwiraj Maitra, Ph.D.


Allergan/Skinmedica

Jennifer Marsh, Ph.D.


Our amazing lineup of collaborators for Beauty Accelerate speaks for itself: Procter & Gamble
Supergoop! | L’Oréal/Pureology | CHANEL | The Complete Package | Mother Dirt
Marc Pissavini, Ph.D.
| Coty | HUE for Every Man | R&Co and V76–Luxury Brand Partners | The Estée Coty-Lancaster
Lauder Companies | Soko Glam | bareMinerals | Winky Lux | Amika | BeautyEdge
Luigi Rigano, Ph.D.
LLC | Mary Kay | Function of Beauty | Dermaflash | Dash Hudson | eos | Mented Industrial Consulting Research
| Rare Beauty Brands | CosBar | Plant Apothecary | Credo Beauty | Stella Rising
Sylvianne Schnebert, M.D.
| Grande Cosmetics | ACT Solutions Corp. | Beauty Stat | Larry Weiss, M.D. | LVMH Recherche
Pfizer/GSK | LemonTree Partners | Grace Kingdom Beauty | The Young Group | Ron Sharpe
Good Housekeeping Institute | L’Oréal Skincare | Global Regulatory Associates | Amway
Scentbird | Allergan/Skinmedica | ILIA | The Perfect V | Tru Fragrance & Beauty. Leslie C. Smith, Ph.D.
Consultant
Visit www.beautyaccelerate.com for speaker bios, session details, a full schedule David C. Steinberg
and more. We hope you’ll join us! Steinberg & Associates

Peter Tsolis
Until then, enjoy this month’s issue, covering: UV protection, sunscreen The Estée Lauder Companies
preservation, microbiome moisturization, anti-aging and our all-new “Expert
Russel Walters, Ph.D.
Opinions” column, exclusive to the digital magazine. Johnson & Johnson
Yours in Innovation, Claudie Willemin
Independent Consultant

Shuliang Zhang, Ph.D.


Coty, Inc.
6 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019

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PhytoCellTec™
PhytoCellTec™ Goji
3131

Goji
1717

Stem
Stem cell
cell activation
836

activation
836
6262

for
for a
a V-shaped
V-shaped face
+ 41

face
+ 41
Phone
Phone

PhytoCellTec™ Goji is a novel plant stem cell ingredient that is based on the
PhytoCellTec™
super fruit goji andGojiwhich
is a novel plantfacial
tightens stemcontours.
cell ingredient that is based on the
/ Switzerland,

super fruit goji and which tightens facial contours.


/ Switzerland,

As we age, the production of collagen and elastin is reduced and this results in
As we age,
sagging skinthe production
that can most of collagen
notably be and elastinatisthe
observed reduced and this of
face contours results
the in
sagging skin that can most
jawline. Mesenchymal stemnotably be been
cells have observed
shown at to
thestimulate
face contours of theand
fibroblasts
jawline. Mesenchymal stem cells have been shown to stimulate fibroblasts
increase collagen production, as well as regenerate the skin. This cell-to-cell and
Buchs

increase collagen production, as well as regenerate the skin.


communication is mediated by messenger vesicles, so-called exosomes, whichThis cell-to-cell
Buchs

communication
are secreted by is mediated
these by messenger vesicles, so-called exosomes, which
stem cells.
5033

are secreted by these stem cells.


5033

• Increases collagen and elastin expression


Biochemistry,

•• Increases collagen
Tightens facial and elastin expression
contours
Biochemistry,

•• Tightens facial contours


Minimizes fine wrinkles and deeper lines
• Minimizes fine wrinkles and deeper lines
PhytoCellTec™ Goji rejuvenates the skin from inside out by improving skin
PhytoCellTec™
density to ensure Goji
an rejuvenates
improved, oval the face
skin from
shape. inside out by improving skin
AG

density to ensure an improved, oval face shape.


Mibelle
Mibelle AG

www.mibellebiochemistry.com
www.mibellebiochemistry.com

USA office: Mibelle Biochemistry


USA office: Mibelle
Mahwah,Biochemistry
NJ 07495
Mahwah, NJ 07495
Phone 1-844-MIBELLE
Phone 1-844-MIBELLE

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Industry Insight | C&T ®

Sunscreen Dynamics and


the ‘Reef Safe’ Dance
Protection against damaging exposome forces, from pollution
and toxins to electromagnetic waves of all lengths, are at the
forefront of consumers’ minds; not to mention regulators’.
But what happens when a topical solution to one of these
forces is at odds with another?
Take organic sunscreens, for example, which provide the
highest SPF protection but are flagged over (inconclusive)
environmental concerns. As Mark Chandler (MC), president
of ACT Solutions Corp., explained in the following adapta-
tion from an interview, it may require rethinking the formula
for an entirely new approach.

C&T: Where does sunscreen product development


currently stand?
MC: Sunscreens are in a dynamic state right now. You have
“reef-safe,” you have people worried about organic sunscreens
penetrating the skin and getting into the bloodstream, and you
have the U.S. Food and Drug Administration saying “show us
the data” on all the organic sunscreens while at the same time
categorizing inorganic zinc oxide and TiO2 as GRASE. So at the
moment, you’re essentially free to move about the cabin with
inorganics like zinc oxide but with everything else, you may be
in a holding pattern.
If you’re going to continue formulating in the organic
sunscreen world, what you’ve had taken away from you are
basically two of the coolest toys—octinoxate and oxyben-
zone—which give you the highest SPF and fill in the middle
range, respectively. You take those away and making a high-
SPF product is now even more difficult. So if you’re going
continue on that route and you’re doing the “reef-safe dance,”
look to different emollients, boosters, stabilizers and the
formulation itself to get that SPF back up to where you want
it to be.
If you instead plan to avoid organics and simply go with
inorganics, then the challenge is getting better SPFs with
cosmetically elegant products that don’t whiten on the skin.
This could mean nano-sized particles (whatever that means)—
or perhaps another novel and unexpected way to impart truly
broad-spectrum benefits is with a lower-SPF, all-ZnO product
that touches the forgotten range of UVA-II. (For more on this
approach, see our “Expert Opinions” collection on Page DM1
of your digital magazine).
Mark Chandler
President, ACT Solutions Corp.

Engage with Mark Chandler at Beauty Accelerate


on Oct. 15, 2019, at the Metropolitan West in NYC.
His workshop, “Hitting ‘Refresh’ on Natural Innovation,”
will explore formulating better naturals—
which means unlearning what we think we know about them.

Register today!

10 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019

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CREATING TOMORROW’S SOLUTIONS

MATTE & SHINE

If the runways of the leading fashion designers are anything to go by, the trends in make-up and styling are
dominated by two looks: matte and shine. The fresh, young shine look is achieved with a radiant make-up
complemented by healthy glossy hair. The “undone” appearance of matte, on the other hand, is created by
nude-make-up and faded gloss in beach waves. Whether for hair care, skin care or make-up – achieve the
perfect matte or shine look with BELSIL ® silicones and HDK ® silicas from WACKER.

www.wacker.com/personalcare www.wacker.com/socialmedia

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Product Roundup [Ingredients, Equipment & Services]

Multifunctional Solutions
HyWhite
Contipro a.s.
www.contipro.com
HyWhite (INCI:
Sodium Hyaluronate
(and) Linolenic Acid)
is a derivative of a
low-molecular-weight
hyaluronic acid and
a-linolenic acid.
Both parts of the molecule significantly contribute to the efficacy
of the final product, HyWhite. Effectiveness was shown in both Pinolumin
Asian and Caucasian skin types, with a 40% improvement in Mibelle Biochemistry
skin lightness (ITA). www.mibellebiochemistry.com
Pinolumin (INCI: Pinus Cembra Wood Extract (and) Maltodextrin (and)
Water (aqua))—an active to relax stressed skin—is an extract of the
MCT (Medium Triglyceride) Swiss stone pine, a tree native to the mountain region of Switzerland.
Oil and Oil Powder The extract has soothing and anti-inflammatory effects. In clinical
Arista Industries, Inc. studies, Pinolumin reduced skin irritation and improved skin tone
www.aristaindustries.com evenness for radiant, relaxed skin.
MCT or Medium Chain Tri-
glycerides C:8 and C:10 (INCI:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) are Acticire MB
derived from coconut or palm Gattefossé
oil, and are offered in liquid www.gattefosse.com
and powder form. Powder bases are maltodextrin, non-GMO tapioca,
Acticire MB (INCI: Jojoba
acacia fiber, pea protein and rice protein; oil loads up to 70%
Esters (and) Helianthus
are available.
Annuus (Sunflower)
Seed Wax (and) Acacia
Decurrens Flower Wax
(and) Polyglycerin-3) is a
texturizing and moistur-
izing ingredient, designed
to upgrade any cosmetic formulation. 100% natural in origin, and based on
a functionalized complex of jojoba, mimosa and sunflower waxes, Acticire
MB brings durable moisturization and comfort to the skin and enables the
creation of original textures.

Stellight
Lipotrue Inc.
www.lipotrue.com
Stellight (INCI: Acetyl Hexapep-
Pureact TR-L90 tide-1) gives users luminous and
bright skin. Thanks to its unique
Innospec Performance Chemicals
activity on melanocytes, kerati-
www.innospecinc.com
nocytes and fibroblasts, Stellight
Create ultra-mild, easily rinsable shower gels, body washes and modulates the cell intercommu-
combo bars with Innospec’s Pureact TR-L90 (INCI: Sodium Methyl nication required for melanogen-
Lauroyl Taurate). This product is naturally derived, readily biode- esis. Consumers can drawn their
gradable, sulfate-free and “salt”-free. Pureact TR-L90 is available own constellation and restore skin
in flake or chip form, allowing for ease of use. brightness to help obtain captivating and glowing beauty.

12 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019

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Farmal MS 6135
Ingredion Inc.
Crodabond CSA www.ingredion.us
Croda Inc.
To satisfy consumer desires
www.crodapersonalcare.com for clean beauty products,
Crodabond CSA (INCI: Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer) elevate your next formulation
is a 100% naturally derived film-former and adhesive polymer that pro- with our latest innovation,
vides multiple benefits for both hair care and color cosmetic applications. Farmal MS 6135 multifunc-
It smooths and seals lifted cuticles; repairs split hair fibers; reduces hair tional polymer (INCI: Calcium
color fade; provides long-wear to color cosmetic formulations; and acts as Starch Octenylsuccinate) to
a natural alternative to petro-based color cosmetic ingredients. deliver superior oil absorption in beauty care products while offering
a consumer-friendly label. Our plant-derived polymer provides a soft
matte finish on the skin.

Campo Snow White


Coral Algae
Campo Research
www.campo-research.com
Campo Snow White Coral Algae
(INCI: Corallina Officinalis Extract)
is based on Corallina officinalis, a
marine algae seaweed from the South Pacific. It has superb physical
sun-protection properties and can completely filter solar UV rays for
Water Purification Systems formulations > SPF 50. The ingredient is recommended to be added
MilliporeSigma at 2.0-3.5% to any topical leave-on formulations.
www.SigmaAldrich.com/labwater
Laboratory water purity is crucial for accurate and reliable results in
cosmetics R&D and QA/QC labs, since many analyses rely on purified
Synoxyl AZ
water. The Milli-Q IQ 7003/7005/7010/7015 ultrapure and pure water
systems combine optimized water purification with unique monitoring Sytheon
technologies; provide unparalleled convenience and versatility; and www.sytheonltd.com
reduce environmental impact. Synoxyl AZ (INCI: Acetyl
Zingerone) is an all-in-
one quencher, antioxi-
dant and selective che-
lator that is the first of
its kind in the industry. It
reduces immediate and
delayed skin damage (↓CPDs), and balances skin microbiome diversity.
Placebo-controlled clinical studies revealed significant improvement in
skin defenses along with a reduction in wrinkles, pigmentation and skin
redness in photoaged skin.

CBP Inulin Matribust


Acme-Hardesty Company Silab
www.acme-hardesty.com www.silab.fr
CBP Inulin (INCI: Inulin) is a Obtained from a co-
naturally occurring biopolymer product from jojoba,
extracted from chicory root Matribust (INCI: Sim-
that combines prebiotic activity mondsia Chinensis
with functionalities such as (Jojoba) Seed Extract)
moisturization and thickening. is a firming active
CBP Inulin is preservative-free dedicated to the neck and décolleté area. It specifically targets modifi-
and is readily biodegradable, cations of the dermis and dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) by regulat-
making it the perfect prebiotic for skin care. Acme-Hardesty's CBP ing the matrisome of sagging skin. Matribust thus restores density and
Inulin is supplied by its partner, Cosun. tone to the skin.

Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019 Did you register yet? beautyaccelerate.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 13

CT1909_Roundup_fcx.indd 13 8/20/19 1:06 PM


Technology Launches
This latest selection of ingredient launches can help formulators intensify pigments; naturally texturize;
create popular balm formats; and more.

Soapberry Extract Tagua Natural White Exfoliant


The Secrets of Caledonia Trafino
www.tsocaledonia.co.uk www.trafino.net
A natural foaming agent, Soapberry Extract (INCI: Sapindus Tagua Natural White Exfoliant (INCI: Phytelephas Aequatorialis Seed
Mukorossi Extract) can ostensibly be used to create a lather in Powder) is based on tagua—also known as ivory nut or vegetable
shampoos, soaps and cleansing products that exclude other ivory—native to tropical rainforests. Available in multiple sizes, the
skin-irritating surfactants while offering skin-protecting benefits. ingredient can be used as a microbead replacement and texturizer
for makeup, sunscreens, scrubs, cosmetics, and bath and body
care applications.
Sapogel Q
Alchemy Ingredients
www.alchemy-ingredients.com Entrada-SQ
Sapogel Q (INCI: Glycerin (and) Water Advonex International
(aqua) (and) Quillaja Saponaria Wood www.advonexintl.com
Extract (and) Saponaria Officinalis A laboratory-synthesized
(Soapwort) Extract) is a natural alter- squalane for skin and hair
native to lanolin and petroleum jelly care, Entrada-SQ (INCI:
that creates balms that are stable Squalane) is meant to
and have a translucent appearance, be smooth, glossy and
with possible textures ranging from spreadable, while leaving a softness on skin. It is produced via
honey-like to thick balms. plant-based oils such as soybean, palm and canola; notably, not
olive oil, which is suffering production setbacks.

CalBlend PE
Pilot Chemical Company
www.pilotchemical.com
CalBlend PE (INCI: Sodium
Laureth Sulfate (and) Cocami- Ecofil B110
dopropyl Betaine (and) Sodium Eckart
Lauryl Sulfate (and) Cocamide www.eckart.net
MIPA) builds viscosity through
Ecofil B110 (INCI:
the application of salt addi-
Hydroxybutyric Acid/
tives. The resulting creamy
Hydroxypentanoic Acid
lather cleanses and leaves
Copolymer) is a natural-
behind a silky finish on skin.
ly fermented micronized
Applications include shampoo,
polymer filler that cre-
body wash, liquid hand soap
ates soft-focus effects; intensifies colors; boosts the appearance
and pet shampoo.
of healthy skin; mattifies; and alters formulation properties such as
application behavior and skin feel.

14 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019

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Epsiline
Greentech
www.greentech.fr
Based on the micro
alga Porphyridium
cruentum, Epsiline
(INCI: Not Available)
focuses on the melano- Stepanquat Helia
genesis process both Stepan
with and without UV www.stepan.com
exposure to increase Derived from non-GMO sunflower oil, Stepanquat Helia (INCI:
melanin synthesis and Disunfloweroylethyl Dimonium Chloride (and) Sunflower Seed
transport it to the skin’s Oil Glycerides (and) Lauryl Lactyl Lactate) is biodegradable and
surface. Through this action, suntans are reportedly extended aims to leave hair soft and manageable without buildup while
and skin is left moisturized and soft. enabling easy combing in both wet and dry hair.

Roelmi HPC Matrifuse S-1


Celus-Bi Feel Dispersant
www.roelmihpc.com Lubrizol
A biodegradable textur- www.lubrizol.com
izer, Celus-Bi Feel (INCI: Matrifuse S-1 Dispersant
Zea Mays Starch (and) (INCI: Polyhydroxystearic
Polyvinyl Alcohol (and) Acid (and) Neopentyl Glycol
Glycerin) has a sphe- Diethylhexanoate) is meant
roidal shape and leaves to create more heavily pig-
a smooth, silky and dry mented and better-feeling
feel; controls sebum; cosmetics and sun care
enhances spreadability; products by separating the buildup of pigment particles to foster
and creates a soft-focus more consistent color intensity, smoother flow and even spreading.
effect in sun, skin and hair care, and color cosmetics. The rheology modifier also decreases the viscosity of dispersions to
improve formulation aesthetics.

Plantasens Flash 80, 100 AqStar M1


Clariant, Elevance Renewable Sciences Aqdot
www.clariant.com, www.elevance.com www.aqdot.com
These lightweight emollients deliver the spreadability, condition- AqStar M1 (INCI: Sodium Starch Octenyl Succinate (and) Cucur-
ing, shine and sensory effects of silicones with added sustain- bituril) is 90% plant-based and creates glossy o/w emulsions.
able benefits. Plantasens Flash 80 (INCI: Dodecane) imparts a It is designed to enhance formulation aesthetics by enabling
satin-like feel for use in products with a short playtime, while easy spreading; slight elastic behavior; flow rather than drop
Plantasens Flash 100 (INCI: Tridecane (and) Pentadecane) behavior; and “peaking” in cream formulations.
imparts a smooth feel but medium-to-long playtime.

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CT1909_Tech_Launches_fcx.indd 15 8/20/19 3:57 PM


EXPERT
Expert Opinions

OPINIONS

Sunscreens:
Lower SPFs, Regulations,
Esthetic Balancing Act & More

Lower SPFs The Big Question of ‘Nano’


Could lower SPFs be better for consumers? Concerns over sunscreen nanoparticles penetrating the
Mark Chandler, president of the formulation consultancy skin has had European regulators up in arms such that they
ACT Solutions Corp., believes so—at least, so long as we now require a nano designation on product labels...
address one very specific and narrow UVA range...

Mixed Signals, Testing and


‘No O’ and Personalization Breaking Monograph Addition
Robert Hu, president of Hallstar Beauty, weighed in on Ingredient safety and ecological impact are what
current trends and concerns shaping the sunscreen market... Carl D’Ruiz, senior regulatory affairs manager for DSM
Personal Care, North America, identifies as concerns
shaping today’s sunscreen market...
Sprayable, Sparkling and
High-SPF
Anna Gripp, marketing manager for BASF’s personal
care division in North America, sees the U.S. sun care
industry shifting attention toward inorganic UV filters... Contributors:
MARK CHANDLER, ACT SOLUTIONS CORP., NEWARK, DE USA

ROBERT HU, HALLSTAR BEAUTY, CHICAGO USA

CARL D’RUIZ, DSM PERSONAL CARE, PARSIPPANY, NJ USA

ANNA GRIPP, BASF CARE CHEMICALS, FLORHAM PARK, NJ USA

16 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019

CT1909_Expert_Opinions_fcx_DE.indd 16 8/27/19 4:34 PM


Modernizing Moisturizers Personalizing for Prevention
The remedy to many of today’s consumers’ skin Angela Medina, business development director, USA &
concerns is, arguably, moisturization... Canada, Jojoba Desert, sees “the desire for personaliza-
tion focusing on fresh, natural ingredients” as one of the
Making Moisturizing moisturizer/skin hydration market’s biggest trends...

Claims Pop
Fred Zülli, managing director, Mibelle Biochemistry, points Ingredient Mixing and
to the ambiguity of dry skin as a key driver in the market... Microbiome Balancing Act
Caren Dres-Hajeski, business unit director, Personal
Care, Acme-Hardesty, does not see moisturizing cosmetic
Going Clean and
products going anywhere soon...
Embracing Oils
Clean beauty is vital for today’s moisturizer/skin
hydration market, according to Rebecca Blahosky, VP of Contributors:
sales and marketing, Botanic Innovations... NICOLA LIONETTI, ISPE S.R.L., MILAN

RATAN CHAUDHURI, PH.D., PRESIDENT & CEO, SYTHEON


The ‘Solvent of Life’ FRED ZÜLLI, MANAGING DIRECTOR, MIBELLE BIOCHEMISTRY
According to Ratan Chaudhuri, Ph.D., president and
ANGELA MEDINA, BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR,
CEO, Sytheon, achieving water homeostasis is key for USA & CANADA, JOJOBA DESERT
today’s skin hydration market...
REBECCA BLAHOSKY, VP OF SALES & MARKETING,
BOTANIC INNOVATIONS

CAREN DRES-HAJESKI, BUSINESS UNIT DIRECTOR,


PERSONAL CARE, ACME-HARDESTY

Next-level Moisturizers
Breaking Tradition,
Personalization,
Clean Concepts & Others

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CT1909_Expert_Opinions_fcx.indd 17 8/19/19 4:38 PM


Expert Opinions: Sunscreens

SUNSCREENS

Lower SPFs you’re better off boosting it way on the other


Could lower SPFs be better for consumers? side of the spectrum, which gives a short shrift
Mark Chandler, president of the formulation to that one tiny range in the middle where the
consultancy ACT Solutions Corp., believes bad stuff happens. So maybe it’s an education
so—at least, so long as we address one very to wear just an SPF of 8 to 15 every day. This is
specific and narrow UVA range. He explains, certainly going to look nicer because then you
“What we’re seeing physiologically is there may can much more easily have a fully transparent
be a nice benefit we didn’t expect by going to an SPF 15 that gives you wonderful protection in
all-zinc oxide product, which might not be as the mid-range and, of course, out in the UVA-I,
high in SPF but will give truly broad-spectrum too. So with the lower SPF but UVA-II coverage,
protection in the forgotten range of what’s you look better and you have all the protection
called UVA-II. This is right past where you you need.”
get sunburned.” Furthermore, with consumers moving
As Chandler reminds us, SPF is a measure toward daily wear sun protection, this may be
of potential sunburn protection, whereas a new market opportunity. “With consumers
broad-spectrum protection, just by the nature transitioning to daily wear products that might
of the U.S. test, biases this measurement way be worn beneath or added to makeup to give
out in the spectrum—more to where you get some protection, there may be an intermediate
visible signs of aging. “Giving good protection product in there; whether it gives makeup a
in the place just past where you get sunburn, boost or adds to a tinted moisturizer that kind
not to get into the vagaries of the test, almost of does it all,” he says.
penalizes you; that realm is 320-340 nm. This How might consumers respond to the idea
wavelength is thought to be the main contribu- of a lower SPF? Chandler deliberates, “You’re
tor to the really bad skin cancer, and you’re going to get better protection [by addressing
getting it every day.” this UVA-II range] but how you explain it to
He continues, “To get broad-spectrum pro- people…I don’t know. What we can know is we
tection, you’ve got to boost UVA protection but are formulating products that are truly offering

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CT1909_Expert_Opinions_fcx.indd 18 8/19/19 4:35 PM


better protection even though the SPF might not
be as high. … And while you may need more zinc
oxide to create this lower SPF product, you are
creating a much safer—and more photostable
product than, say, avobenzone. It’s also perceived
as much more ‘reef safe.’”
He adds that with recent concerns over
whether sunscreens block the body’s vitamin D
production—which he notes occurs in the narrow
UV-B range of approximately 290 nm—the indus-
try could position a new lower SPF-standing as a
response to these concerns, which might bolster
sunscreen compliance in consumers.
“We can tell consumers ‘we get you, so what
we’re going to do is have you wear a lower SPF
product, say 15 or even lower, that’s going to
let some of that wavelength in [for vitamin D
production] and also let you have some color.
And 10 years from now you’re going to look a
whole lot better and be a whole lot healthier.’”
Chandler believes the low-SPF daily approach
offers true broad spectrum protection, and not in
the way the tests indicate. “This really the way to
go and might even be better than just the occa-
sional high-SPF,” he says, conceding, “of course,
if you’re going out to the beach or an outdoor you’d basically have to take sandpaper to the
concert, yeah, you still don’t want to get fried.” skin. The reason I bring that up is in one study
showing TiO2 penetrated the skin, the research-
The Big Question of ‘Nano’ ers did exactly that in an animal model.”
Concerns over sunscreen nanoparticles He adds this smaller, 40-60 nm range is
penetrating the skin has had European regulators more effective than larger particle sizes because
up in arms such that they now require a nano it appears that the particles can more closely
designation on product labels. What does this tell align to deflect all the angles of sunlight. “It’s
the consumer? Well, that depends. Chandler con- this cool optimum range because you get not
tinues our discussion, “Someone deemed ‘nano’ only [better protection], but also transparency
to mean [entities measuring] below the 100-nano- on the skin. When you picture TiO2 for makeup,
meter mark. But it depends how you measure that’s about 250 nm, and it appears as white
that. We can measure so it’s not nano and we can light reflecting back. As you get above 400 nm,
measure so it is—and both approaches are good that’s when you reach the visible range. So it
scientific tests.” [would be] a cool thing if you could convince
He explains, “The nano designation is like a people that 40 nm or 50 nm were safe, which
bad EWG score. It’s meaningless for real toxicol- they are, because this is the range where you
ogy because in intact skin, nanoparticle TiO2 and get the best protection but still cannot see it.”
zinc oxide will not penetrate. We’re built better
than that. You have to get so small—the pollu-
tion particles you cannot see in the air and in the
atmosphere can penetrate but nano TiO2 and zinc
oxide will not. In fact, the best sun protection is
given by particles around 40-60 nm—which, by
the skin’s estimation, is like ten times the biggest
particle that can penetrate. When you buy TiO2
and zinc oxide, you’ve got none of those little par- Mark Chandler
ticles in there. If you wanted them to penetrate, ACT Solutions Corp.

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Expert Opinions: Sunscreens

‘No O’ and Personalization quantitative product testing under consistent


conditions for formulators.” He says, “Whatever
Robert Hu, president of Hallstar Beauty,
we [develop] must be scientifically focused.
weighed in on current trends and concerns shap-
Ultimately, our aim is to help people enjoy life.”
ing the sunscreen market. He wrote, “The U.S.
How is Hallstar advancing future sun-
FDA’s [Food and Drug Administration’s] proposed
screens? Hu points to the company’s Solasure
regulations for sunscreen ingredients, along with
patented film deposition machine, for precise
mandates already passed, e.g., in Hawaii, the
control of sunscreen film thickness. He also
Florida Keys and U.S. Virgin Islands, are on the
describes the aforementioned SmartEye from
minds of producers—especially multinational
Beautivision technology as “a smart phone-
brands navigating cross-regional regulatory com-
compatible device that detects sun damage
pliance.” According to Hu, the recent mandates
invisible in human eye, evaluates sunscreen
for oxybenzone-free and octinoxate-free sun care,
application quality and monitors skin’s response
to which Hallstar refers as “no O” sunscreens,
to product usage over time.
clearly limit the UV filters available to formula-
Hallstar’s SolaStay S1 (INCI: Ethylhexyl
tors, particularly for high SPF products that must
Methoxycrylene) and AvoBrite (INCI: Acrylates
remain photostable.
Copolymer) ingredients are touted as “potent
He writes, “The combination of FDA rec-
stabilizers for avobenzone, enabling robust,
ommendations, consumer behaviors and the
effective and globally approved solutions to
increased popularity of multifunctional daily
UVA protection, while preserving themselves
wear sunscreens [poses] several challenges for
via an efficient internal conversion relaxation
formulators: environmental protection vs. skin
mechanism.” This is said to reduce the use
protection; organic vs. inorganic considerations;
levels of UV filters and leave room in the formu-
and pleasant sensoriality (regional preferences) vs.
lation room for aesthetic engineering.
effectiveness.”
Finally, Hu writes, “The unique charac-
So, what direction will future sunscreens
teristics of another photostabilizer, HallBrite
take? Regardless of organic or inorganic, Hu
BHB (INCI: Butyloctyl Salicylate), has allowed
thinks personalization is the name of the game
Hallstar to produce the highest-performing,
and, in relation, individualized skin care analysis.
aesthetically pleasant TiO2 dispersion: HallBrite
“Our vision is to give consumers a very vis-
EZ-FLO TDX (INCI: Butyloctyl Salicylate (and)
ible way to see they are protected, [such as on
Titanium Dioxide (nano) [Titanium Dioxide]
mobile devices],” he says, noting the company’s
(40%) (and) Triceteareth-4 Phosphate (and)
recent investment moving from chemistry to
Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Silica).”
equipment—i.e., SmartEye from Beautivision. “We
imagine providing a customized solution for each
consumer…to design a product that can fit every
consumer’s lifestyle, skin type, habits...[etc.]” He
envisioned a tool to predict consumer needs and,
in response, produce personalized protection for a
given set of circumstances.
Hu writes that sunscreen product development Robert Hu
needs to focus on “more science and less art, with Hallstar Beauty

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Mixed Signals,
Testing and Breaking
Monograph Addition
Ingredient safety and ecological impact are
what Carl D’Ruiz, senior regulatory affairs man-
ager for DSM Personal Care, North America,
identifies as concerns shaping today’s sunscreen
market. He writes, “Safety concerns have been
heightened due to confusion around the FDA’s
recent request for additional safety data to
determine the GRASE (Generally Regarded as
Safe and Effective) status of existing sunscreen
monograph ingredients.” He adds that despite
the FDA allowing most of these sunscreens to
be used during the test period, consumers have
already equated the additional testing require-
ment as evidence that non-GRASE means
not safe. Maximal Usage Trials (MUsT studies) demon-
As a further complication, D’Ruiz explains, strates that the use of avobenzone in sunscreens
“The timeline to complete the current testing should be considered safe at even up to 5%—a
proposed by the FDA [also] will take many use level higher than the currently allowed 3%
years to complete. We [at DSM, however,] in the United States—broadening the protection
believe there is a faster way.” The company of consumers.”
recently presented an accelerated model to Where does D’Ruiz see the future of sun-
the FDA using the company’s avobenzone UVA screens? In ensuring their safety and providing
filter, Parsol 1789, as an example. consumers with a wide range of photoprotec-
“This alternative scientific approach is a tion options. Specifically, D’Ruiz notes, “This
quantitative risk assessment using ‘real world’ includes the FDA approving more modern UV
empirica,” writes D’Ruiz. “The human use data filters. U.S. consumers should not be denied the
attained from the FDA’s recently published broad-spectrum UV protection and other ben-
efits provided by the modern filters approved in
other parts of the world.”
As an aside, he sees increasing interest in
protection from blue light radiation as the next
frontier in sunlight protection.
How is DSM driving the sun care market
ahead? “We are seeking a GRASE determi-
nation from the FDA for a new sunscreen
ingredient, Parsol Shield (INCI: Bemotrizinol),”
says D’Ruiz. “In addition, internal research
shows that our mineral sunscreens Parsol TX
(INCI: Titanium Dioxide) and Parsol ZX (INCI:
Zinc Oxide) significantly increase blue light
protection.”

Carl D’Ruiz
DSM Personal Care

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Expert Opinions: Sunscreens

Sprayable, Sparkling and All in all, it seems that zinc oxide is winning
the race in today’s sunscreen market in the
High-SPF U.S. “Zinc oxide provides broad spectrum and
Anna Gripp, marketing manager for BASF’s efficient UVA coverage,” says Gripp. “It also is
personal care division in North America, sees stable, compatible with other ingredients in
the U.S. sun care industry shifting attention formulas, non-staining and has a long history of
toward inorganic UV filters. “This is especially safe use.”
true for zinc oxide. Consumers are familiar with Nano or not, coated or uncoated, BASF
it and it’s even been used in baby sunscreens, has designed zinc oxide in numerous formats;
so users know it’s safe, which is important including its new Z-CoteSimple (INCI: Zinc
to them.” Oxide (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and)
She noted that while the FDA is finalizing Triethoxycaprylylsilane (and) Polyhydroxyste-
its UV filter proposed rule, BASF Personal Care aric Acid (non-nano)) 70% pourable dispersion,
North America has moved ahead with a focus for ease of handling.
on optimizing sprayable forms of inorganic UV Circling back to the beginning of these
filters. “About thirty percent of the sunscreen “Expert Opinions,” where Chandler proposed a
market is in spray formats, so we’re coming lower SPF for better protection, Gripp affirms
out with a nice-feeling, non-clogging zinc oxide that higher SPFs are what consumers want.
spray concept.” “In the eyes of the end consumer, a higher
Gripp also observes the industry’s interest in SPF is better,” she says.
inorganic sunscreen materials pointing to novel
trends including sparkling “see me” sunscreen
types, as well as hydrating and weightless
products. “Daily wear is increasingly using
sunscreens, too,” she adds, “and this trend
is continuing.”
Anna Gripp
BASF Care Chemicals

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CT1909_Expert_Opinions_fcx.indd 22 8/19/19 4:36 PM


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Expert Opinions: Next-level Moisturizers

NEXT-LEVEL
MOISTURIZERS Modernizing Moisturizers “However, the tools provided by cosmetic
The remedy to many of today’s consumers’ ingredients assembled in many efficient combina-
skin concerns is, arguably, moisturization. Skin tions become more refined every day, helping
hydration helps to prevent wrinkles and signs of humans to live more and more comfortably within
aging; provides extra defense to the skin barrier, their own boundaries—and skin.”
crucial for protective skin care; remedies dryness; Chemists have found new ways to introduce
and balances skin. Once these benefits are com- moisture to skin; notable examples include the use
bined with a myriad of actives and formulating of fine water sprays to improve skin’s water reten-
techniques, we are left with a veritable skin care tion, decrease transepidermal water loss (TEWL)
powerhouse that is very accessible to consumers. and boost elasticityb along with numerous delivery
The aim and method of skin moisturizers has systems comprising dry masks, microbeads
shifted through decades of cosmetic trends and and capsules, patches and other chemical and
priorities. For modern products, “... moisturizing physical enhancers.
efficacy is achieved by the synergy of several Although there are certain standby ingredients
different approaches performing contemporarily in moisturizers—of which hyaluronic acid, vari-
in the same product through direct and indirect ous natural oils and, first and foremost, water, are
moisturization,” Nicola Lionetti, ISPE srl, previ- popular—trends and new technology have allowed
ously wrotea. modern moisturizers to go to the next level to
Lionetti continues: “As skin represents the address the above skin concerns. Today’s hydrat-
field of action of cosmetics, and skin mois- ing products are cleaner and more natural than
turization is essential for its equilibrium and before; include ingredients that used to be a nov-
functionality, cosmetic formulators are continu- elty such as prebiotics; and bring innovation to
ously challenged by new discoveries in the fields one of personal care’s most steadfast applications.
of dermatology, physiology and biology concern-
b
Effect of spraying of fine water particles on facial skin
ing the skin-water equilibrium.
moisture and viscoelasticity in adult women, Skin Research
and Technology
a
Water Meets Skin: Modern Moisturizers,
Cosmetics & Toiletries Nicola Lionetti
ISPE

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CT1909_Expert_Opinions_fcx.indd 24 8/19/19 4:36 PM


to multifunctional products that target specific
aspects of skin moisture: “Multifunctional prod-
ucts with multitargeted approach is the way to
restore/maintain skin hydration and barrier func-
tion. We need to understand mechanistic details
and then select right products for achieving skin
hydration. Key targets are: filaggrin, aquaporin-3,
aquaporin-9, hyaluronic acid and restoration of
the skin barrier function. The level of hyaluronic
acid can be maintained by inclusion of hyaluroni-
dase inhibitor and/or hyaluran synthase booster.
Adding humectant is not a long-term solution,”
added Chaudhuri.
Chaudhuri identified several Sytheon ingredi-
The ‘Solvent of Life’ ents for skin hydration.
According to Ratan Chaudhuri, Ph.D., Since skin hydrators are generally water-solu-
president and CEO, Sytheon, achieving ble products, Sytheon’s lipophilic skin hydrator,
water homeostasis is key for today’s skin HydraSynol DOI (INCI: Isosorbide Dicaprylate)
hydration market: stimulates a series of genes/proteins/lipids in
order to improve skin hydration and epidermal
permeability barrier function.
Looking to the He also pointed to Sytenol A (INCI: Baku-
chiol), a well-defined natural compound with
future of the
hydration market,
product developers
should ... target
specific aspects of
skin moisturization.
“... It begins with the outermost layer of the
skin—the stratum corneum (SC). Hydration of SC
is important for maintaining skin elasticity and
barrier integrity. It is provided by water, small
osmolytes (such as glycerol) and large polyan- > 99% purity was proven in clinical tests to be a
ionic glycosaminoglycans (such as hyaluronate) true alternative to retinol without the inherent
interacting with a complex network of structural retinol negatives.
proteins, specialized lipids, channels and recep- Last is Sytheon’s Synastol TC (INCI: Terminalia
tors, as well as with the skin microbiota. Chebula Fruit Extract), a standardized bio-active
“Human skin contains about 70% water. In enriched extract that has been shown to be effec-
fact, water is the ‘solvent of live’—without water tive in reversing key signs of aging skin, and at the
life can’t exist. I wouldn’t call moisturization/ same time providing blue light and pollution pro-
skin hydration a trend. It is a necessity to have tection; regulating the skin barrier; and inhibiting
the right level of skin hydrator(s) in every topical hyaluronidase, which degrades hyaluronic acid
product we develop. It will never fade.” when left unchecked.
When looking to the future of the hydra-
tion market, product developers should look Ratan Chaudhuri, Ph.D.
Sytheon

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CT1909_Expert_Opinions_fcx.indd 25 8/19/19 4:36 PM


Expert Opinions: Next-level Moisturizers

Making Moisturizing “Besides the efficacy of the active ingredient,


the story of the moisturizer will also signifi-
Claims Pop cantly contribute to the success of the product
Fred Zülli, managing director, Mibelle Bio- [since] the basic formulation itself—if formu-
chemistry, points to the ambiguity of dry skin as lated well—will already provide a good efficacy
a key driver in the market. and a nice, comfortable skin feel. Therefore,
“Whilst skin moisturization is probably one marketing stories from glacier water, stem
of the oldest claims in cosmetics, it remains cells, and ice wine are very attractive for these
very popular and is used for most products. products, said Zülli.
Starting with botanical extracts (e.g., aloe vera) With consumers’ strong interest in natural
and natural moisturizing factors such as PCA and sustainable products, Zülli predicts that
(pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid), today’s market of moisturizing creams will follow that trend. He
moisturizing actives has become incomprehen- points to Mibelle’s tri-moisturizing Trimoist
sible,” said Zülli. KMF (INCI: Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate (and)
“However, despite the high volume of active Cetyl Alcohol (and) Olus Oil/Vegetable Oil
ingredients, the problem of curing dry skin is (and) Tocopheryl Acetate (and) Glycine Soja/
still largely unsolved. The stratum corneum Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols (and) Glycerin
of really dry skin compared to normal skin (and) Sodium Carboxymethyl Betaglucan
lacks just 3 g of water for the whole-body (and) Sodium Lactate (and) Carnosine (and)
surface. However, providing just 0.3 g of Lactic Acid (and) Water (aqua)) complex as
water into the dry skin of the face continues an option to create state-of-the-art moistur-
to represent a major challenge that demands izers, since “biomimetic activity will also be of
further research.” interest, such as “inspired by nature; realized
Although “moisturization” is ever-relevant by science.”
for consumers, Zülli notes that “much stron-
ger claims are necessary in order to generate
attention, e.g., 24- or 48-hour lasting skin
moisturization after one application, or even
moisturizing effects in rinse-off formulations.
[Also], scalp moisturization is a new, fast-
growing Japanese trend.”
These claims then go on to create a product’s Fred Zülli
marketing story. Mibelle Biochemistry

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CT1909_Expert_Opinions_fcx.indd 26 8/19/19 4:36 PM


Personalizing for Prevention “consumers become savvier on a daily basis.
As social media platforms continue to impact
Angela Medina, business development direc-
information and share studies that reach
tor, USA & Canada, Jojoba Desert, sees “the
millions of buyers, we are seeing a new found
desire for personalization focusing on fresh,
trust in the science found in nature. Buyers
natural ingredients” as one of the moisturizer/
are excited about nature’s positive impacts on
skin hydration market’s biggest trends.
the skin.”
“Consumers continue to educate themselves
Where does Jojoba Desert see the future of
not only on the ingredients that they nourish
skin moisturization? Medina points to, “ingre-
their bodies with, but are also researching
dients like avocado, CBD and hemp seed will
ingredients that they use to sustain their
continue to flourish as more research is being
skin,” noted Medina. “With new discoveries
done on the benefits they impart to the skin.
happening every day focused on how natural
The technology jojoba oil [including JD Jojoba
ingredients have always and continue to
Oil options (INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis
positively impact the skin and help to prevent
(Jojoba) Seed Oil)] offers in stabilizing these
wrinkles, our consumers have become their
natural ingredients will enable longer life as it
own chemist. We are seeing them buy fresh,
has the ability to stabilize these ingredients.”
organic ingredients and blending them at home,
creating their own skin potions.”
Medina continued: “Skin care buyers are
also seeking out the best essential oils and using
their own blends made for their skin’s needs.
Millennials are seeking out natural oils like
jojoba oil, rich in omega-9 and known for its
anti-inflammatory properties to use and slow
down the aging process. Prevention is no longer
something that consumer should have done,
after years of abusing the skin. Prevention is
embedded in the consumer’s lifestyle; nurturing
their skin is now a custom.”
With the cosmetic industry’s major presence Angela Medina
online, Medina expects untapped potential Jojoba Desert
for the moisturization market space since

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CT1909_Expert_Opinions_fcx.indd 27 8/19/19 4:36 PM


Expert Opinions: Next-level Moisturizers

Going Clean and potential. Not a small task, but very exciting!”
How does Botanic Innovations fit into the
Embracing Oils modern moisturization market? Blahosky sees
Clean beauty is vital for today’s moistur- oils as the forefront of hydrating ingredients.
izer/skin hydration market, according to She writes, “It’s exciting to see how con-
Rebecca Blahosky, VP of sales and marketing, sumer adoption of use of oils in moisturizers
Botanic Innovations. has gone from ‘oil-free’ to embracing these
“Consumers are asking for ... proven clean beautiful, deeply moisturizing ingredients. Oils
ingredients with a solid and transparent supply have been used for centuries for skin mois-
chain, with a preference of [being] naturally turization and the future will see optimized
derived. When brands and product developers oil blends—instead of single oil products—
contact us for ingredients to be formulated into that are formulated for best performance,
new moisturizer formulations, the nutritional
profile, performance data and shelf life con-
siderations are key, but the other criteria are
non-negotiable for ingredient consideration.” Oils have been used
for centuries for skin
Blahosky sees beauty’s online presence as
a potential advantage and disadvantage, since
“as social media becomes integrated more and
more into the customer and brand experience, moisturization and
this will actually drive trust (and mistrust)
in brands. Those brands/products that can the future will see
authentically deliver on promise, and can do
so within a proven social/environmental/clean/
optimized oil blends
natural/trace-able ‘halo’ will enjoy the untapped
instead of single oil
products.
best moisturizing benefit and (hopefully) best
impact on clean beauty and sustainability.
“With consumer adoption of unique, but
clean and sustainable oils—like fruit and herb
seed oils—the focus will shift to best produc-
tion methods (like cold-pressed, chemical-free,
low-heat processes, best material handling)
to elevate quality and performance of those
ingredients that will drive consumer adoption
and replenishment.
“Specific oils to watch—due to best moistur-
izing properties—will be: (all cold-pressed)
Nigella sativa (black cumin) seed oil, Vaccinium
macrocarpon (cranberry) seed oil, Cucumis
sativus (cucumber) seed oil, Cucurbita pepo
(pumpkin) seed oil and Daucus carota sativa
(carrot) seed oil. All of these oils support
wonderful moisturizing properties, but are also
locally (Wisconsin/USA) produced, scalable,
clean and sustainable.”

Rebecca Blahosky
Botanic Innovations

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Ingredient Mixing and “There is tremendous untapped potential in
one new subtrend in the market, which focuses
Microbiome Balancing Act on the microbiome and how keeping skin’s
Caren Dres-Hajeski, business unit director, microbiome in balance can improve overall skin
Personal Care, Acme-Hardesty, does not see mois- condition, including moisturization.”
turizing cosmetic products going anywhere soon. Acme-Hardesty is pushing skin moisturization
“Skin moisturization is a need that will never forward on multiple fronts:
decrease in the marketplace. Moisturizing the skin
is one of the most critical aspects of skin care and

Keeping skin’s
the one thing that most consumers crave. Consum-
ers are always looking at new ways to achieve
improved moisturization of the skin,” commented
Dres-Hajeski. “Current trends that are focused on microbiome in balance
naturals and naturally derived ingredients, person-
alization of products and the use of technology are can improve overall
all product development drivers.”
Formulators should think outside the box to
skin condition, including
keep pace with today’s market trends, according to
Dres-Hajeski. She notes that, “finding new products
moisturization.
that can work alongside the current market trends
is key. Looking beyond humectants and looking “In terms of natural oils and balms, there are
towards ingredients that help to rebalance the skin many exotic choices, such as products from the
and improve barrier function will also help improve amazon like cupuacu butter and copaiba oil,
the skin. Combining natural oils and butters along [such as those from Citroleo]. More traditional
with well-known building-block moisturizers like oils such as castor oil can also provide the func-
hyaluronic acid, for example, is just one avenue tion that is needed,” commented Dres-Hajeski.
that can be utilized. Formulators can also target the skin micro-
biome with prebiotic materials, including Cosun
Biobased Product’s CBP Inulin.
“While there is much work that still needs to
be done in [the skin microbiome], one thing is
for certain, and that is that prebiotic materials
will help to provide moisturization to the skin no
matter what. The nature of prebiotics, and their
structure as fructans, will undoubtedly provide
moisturization to the skin,” said Des-Hajeski.

Caren Dres-Hajeski
Acme-Hardesty

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Research | C&T ®

KEY POINTS
• Papaver rhoeas extract
from the seeds of field poppies
demonstrates lipolytic activity
and microcirculation effects.

• Here, it was tested in vivo


for skin-firming properties
and clinically shown to
improve skin density,
elasticity and firmness,
as well as reduce dark
circles and under-eye bags.

Youth in
Full Bloom facebook.com/CandTmagazine
18 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
Cosmetics & Toiletries
Reproduction @cosmeticsandtoiletries
in English or any other language
all or part of this article is strictly prohibited.
© 2019 Allured Business Media.
of
Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019

CT1909_Research_Lefort_fcx.indd 18 8/19/19 1:14 PM


Red Poppy
Extract for
Under-eye
Circles and
Sagging

Marina Lefort, Lilia Heider,


Valérie Bicard-Benhamou and Heike Hanau
Merck KGaA, Darmstadt, Germany
Thierry Baldecchi
Merck Chimie SAS, Fontenay-sous-Bois, France

P apaver rhoeas, better known as


corn poppy, field poppy or red
poppy, is abundant in nature,
with 50-120 different species
known worldwide. The common
variety is large and showy,
with four vivid red petals and a black, central base. While
it often is grown as an ornamental plant, it also serves
functional purposes. For example, the petals of Papaver
rhoeas can be used to sooth coughs, whereas the seeds
can be used as a food ingredient or for oil production.1, 2
Recently, Papaver rhoeas extract has been investigated
in more detail for cosmetic applications. In vitro and ex vivo
tests show its lipolytic activity via a dual influence on
lipogenesis and lipolysis.3 Here, the underlying mechanism
of action was connected to a reduction in glycero-
3-phosphate dehydrogenase (G3PDH) activity—an enzyme
involved in the neo-synthesis of intracellular lipids. G3PDH
enzyme is a rate-limiting step for triglyceride synthesis in
adipose tissue, so this indicated Papaver rhoeas extract
could potentially prevent lipogenesis. Furthermore, ex vivo,
the extract increased the release of free fatty acids and
changed the morphology of adipocytes, i.e., increasing the
number of smaller adipocytes and simultaneous decreasing
the number of bigger adipocytes, indicating the extract’s
ability to activate lipolysis.
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.

DidDid
youyou
register
register
yet? beautyaccelerate.com
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Youth in Full Bloom

Impaired microcirculation may affect both


the function of lymphatic vessels, leading
to oedema, as well as skin color due to the
dilation of dermal blood vessels.

Following these promising findings, the under-eye circles, puffiness and age-related
skin-firming and anti-cellulite efficacies of sagging skin.
Papaver rhoeas extract were investigated in To understand these effects, it is necessary
vivo in a randomized, double-blind, placebo- to understand what microcirculation means for
controlled study.4 Here, an emulsion containing the skin and how modifications to it may impact
0.1% Papaver rhoeas extract was applied to the the skin’s biochemical parameters and appear-
thighs of 22 volunteers and induced statistically ance. Microcirculation only represents about
significant improvements in all viscoelastic- 5% of the body’s total blood volume but it is
ity and skin smoothness parameters, blood vital for functions such as metabolic exchanges,
microcirculation, and linearization of the homeostasis of interstitials fluids, regulation of
dermo-hypodermal junction. blood pressure and thermoregulation for skin
Moreover, a comparison of the test product microcirculation. It ensures tissue nutrition and
versus a placebo revealed statistically significant viability and enables optimized oxygenation
improvements after eight weeks of treat- within skin.5 Thus, an impaired skin microcircu-
ment in favor of the test product for the two lation may affect both the function of lymphatic
parameters specifically linked to cellulite: skin vessels, leading to oedema, as well as skin color
blood microflow and the length of the dermo- due to the dilatation of dermal blood vessels.6-8
hypodermal junction. These improvements were From this foundation and based on previous
also clinically visible on digital images of the work, the current authors explored the proper-
treated areas. ties of Papaver rhoeas extract for potential facial
Besides these visible effects, the significant care benefits. A new clinical study was initiated,
increase in microflow achieved by the topical described herein, to evaluate face-firming and
application of Papaver rhoeas extract warranted face-sculpting effects as well as the ability of
further investigation. Thus, the present authors the extract to reduce under-eye bags and dark
aimed to assess whether their previous findings circles. The study was randomized and double-
could translate to facial areas to address com- blinded, with a placebo control.
mon cosmetic problems often associated with
an impaired skin microcirculation; e.g., dark Materials and Methods
Test extract: The Papaver rhoeas flowers,
and ultimately the seedsa, from which the
text extract was derived were predominantly
cultivated in France according to sustainable
The anti-wrinkle products market is expected
principles. The extract is obtained via ethanol/
to reach $12.8 billion by 2027, expanding at a CO2 co-extraction, known as supercritical CO2
CAGR of 5.8%. extraction (74 bar, 31°C), which is a well-estab-
lished green process that is generally preferred
over processes that use conventional solvents.9
Source: Global Cosmetic Industry The ethanol is removed by vacuum evapora-
tion and the remaining oil extract is clarified by
(www.GCImagazine.com)
a
Greenpharma S.A.S.

20 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019

CT1909_Research_Lefort_fcx.indd 20 8/19/19 1:14 PM


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Youth in Full Bloom

filtration and conditioned under inert atmo- Test emulsions: An o/w emulsion was then
sphere to create a standardized extract. The developed containing 0.2%, or not (placebo),
lead component of the extract is linoleic acid, Papaver rhoeas extract. Both creams contained
in a concentration range between 69-85%. no other known skin care actives such as caf-
Other components include oleic acid, palmitic feine (see Formula 1).
acid and further saturated fatty acids bound or Clinical protocol: Tests were performed
in free form. according to the Declaration of Helsinki in 22
Although the poppy species Papaver rhoeas Caucasian female volunteers, with an average
is not known to contain alkaloids, the seed age 57.5 ± 7.2 years. The selection of volunteers
extract was nonetheless analyzed for them was carried out according to previously agreed
by means of HPLC/MS chromatography. inclusion criteria including age (40-70 years)
The absence of alkaloids from the morphine and dark under-eye circles. The volunteers
or codeine type was confirmed. Finally, the applied each product to half of their face twice a
poppy seed extract was then mixed with a day for eight weeks. The side of application, i.e.,
suitable cosmetic oil, in this case caprylic/ left or right, of the two formulas was random-
capric triglyceride, for ease of formulation. The ized among the volunteers.
final ingredient was a clear oil containing 10%
Papaver rhoeas extract.

Formula 1. Test Emulsions

INCI Placebo emulsion (% w/w) Test emulsion (% w/w)



Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Papaver Rhoeas Extract (and)
Tocopherol (Ronacare SE, Merck KgaA) 0.00 2.00
Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidylglucoside 3.00 3.00
Isononyl Isononanoate 2.00 2.00
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 2.00 0.00
Dicaprylyl Carbonate 3.00 3.00
Butylene Glycol Cocoate 2.00 2.00
Water (aqua) 79.00 79.00
Propylene Glycol 6.00 6.00
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl-Taurate
Copolymer (and) Squalane (and) Polysorbate 60 2.00 2.00
Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben 1.00 1.00
100.00 100.00

22 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019

CT1909_Research_Lefort_fcx.indd 22 8/19/19 1:14 PM


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Youth in Full Bloom

Skin Metrics Doppler device. Here, the perfusion is expressed


The following measurements were taken at in arbitrary perfusion units (PU) and the higher
baseline and after four and eight weeks of treat- the value, the greater the blood flow.
ment on both the face and under the eyes: Skin density: Skin density can be assessed
Face: Skin blood microflow, skin density via by echography. The intensity of ultrasound
echography and skin elasticity (R0, R2 and R6 echoes reflected by the different skin structures
parameters); and is visualized as a scale of pseudo-colors, where
Under-eye area: Color of dark circles (ITA° the different colors represent different levels of
value), volume of eye bags and digital images echogenicity: white > yellow > red > green > blue
of dark circles and under-eye bags both with > black. The analysis of these images gives some
natural light and in UV scan mode. information about the structural and morpho-
logic characteristics of different skin structures.
Instrumentation In this study, the percentage of skin echogenicity/
Skin blood microflow: Blood microflow was density was evaluated, and the efficacy the extract
measured by means of a computerized laser as a re-densifying treatment would be supported
by a significant increase in skin
density, reflected as improve-
ments in dermal structures.
Skin elasticity: Skin
elasticity was assessed using a
cutometer. This device mea-
sures the vertical deformation
of skin when sucked into the
opening of a measuring probe.
R0 represents the skin exten-
sibility; the smaller the value,
the higher the skin firmness. R2
represents the gross elasticity of
the skin, including the viscous
deformation; here, the closer
measurements are to a value
of 1, the more elastic the skin.
Figure 1. Evolution of skin blood microflow (%) Finally, R6 represents the ratio
after four and eight weeks of treatment (face)
of visco-elastic to elastic disten-
sion; the smaller the value, the
higher the elasticity.
Color of dark circles: Color
was assessed by chromametry
according to the CIE rating
system L*a*b*. The ITA° value,
calculated from L* and b*, is
inversely correlated to the pig-
mentation intensity: the higher
the value, the clearer the color.
More specifically:
ITA° = ∫Arctan [(L*- 50)/b*]} × 180/p
Volume of under-eye bags:
The volume (in mm3) of under-
eye bags was measured using a
deviceb that records 3D images
Figure 2. Evolution of skin density/echogenic tissues of the skin surface structure
(%) after four and eight weeks of treatment (face)
b
PRIMOS Pico Optical 3D (GFM)

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CT1909_Research_Lefort_fcx.indd 24 8/19/19 1:14 PM


using a digital stripe projection based on micro
mirrors. The related software then determines
The improvement of the volumes and dimensions of wrinkles, scars,
lips and eye bags.
skin blood micro-flow Digital images: Images were taken with a
powerful system consisting of a high-definition
supports the structural color video-camera with a series of magnify-
ing lenses and softwarec. The digital images
elements of the are shown in their real colors but can be con-

extracellular matrix,
verted into monochromatic images by means
of a software moduled to provide evidence of

increasing skin tone. skin damage.

c
Fotofinder Dermoscope
d
UVscan

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Youth in Full Bloom

Statistical analysis: The mean values, standard


deviations and variations were calculated for each
set of values described. Following the results of nor-
mality Kolmogorov-Smirnov tests, the instrumental
and clinical data for T0, T4weeks and T8weeks
was statistically compared by means of ANOVA for
repeated measures and Bonferroni test for depen-
dent and parametric data, while the variations were
statistically compared by means of t-test for para-
metric and dependent data. The groups of data were
considered statistically different at a probability
value of p < 0.05.

Figure 3. High frequency Results: Skin Blood Microflow


echogram of skin at T0 (before) and Skin blood microflow was positively impacted
T8wks (after) treatment with 0.2% by the Papaver rhoeas extract over the course of
Papaver rhoeas extract the study. After eight weeks, an increase of 3.9%
was recorded, significantly
better compared with
the baseline and placebo
treatment (p < 0.05). The
placebo cream had no sig-
nificant effect on skin blood
microflow (see Figure 1).
As described, efficient
microcirculation is key for
the exchange of nourishing
substances and metabo-
lites in the upper layers
of the skin. Elimination
substances released in
the extracellular matrix
Figure 4. Evolution (%) of skin extensibility (R0, left) and skin are carried through the
endothelium in the venous
elasticity (R2, right) after four and eight weeks treatment (face)
circulation, while glucose,
amino acids, vitamins and
other nourishing sub-
stances are released via the
capillaries to the dermis.5
Skin’s microcircula-
tory flow can therefore
be considered similar to
nutritional circulation, and
its optimization is essential
for the improvement of
cutaneous trophism. By
substantially stimulating
superficial microcircula-
tion, Papaver rhoeas extract
supports an efficient
delivery of micro-nutrients
Figure 5. Color of dark under-eye circles, or D-ITA° variation to skin tissues.
(%), after four and eight weeks of treatment

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CT1909_Research_Lefort_fcx.indd 26 8/19/19 1:14 PM


Results: Skin Density
The test emulsion with 0.2% Papaver rhoeas extract
also induced a continuous improvement in skin
density over the treatment period. A highly statistically
significant increase of 9.8% was evident after eight
weeks treatment (p < 0.001), whereas the placebo
showed no significant effect (see Figures 2 and 3).
Higher skin density is linked to tighter and more orga-
nized structural elements in the extracellular matrix.
Consequently, skin appears firmer and face contours
appear more defined.

Results: Skin Elasticity


Regarding elasticity, results indicated Papaver
rhoeas extract improved the biomechanical properties
of skin. After eight weeks of application, the parame-
ters for skin extensibility (R0) and gross skin elasticity
(R2) were significantly improved by a 12.9% reduction
and 5.7% increase, respectively (p < 0.05). Since skin
was capable of recovery after deformation, it was
considered firmer than before. On the other hand, the
placebo induced no significant changes in viscoelastic
parameters (see Figure 4).

Figure 6. Exemplary digital images of bags


and dark circles under the eyes of a 55-year-
old volunteer at T0 (before) and T8wks (after)
treatment with 0.2% Papaver rhoeas extract

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CT1909_Research_Lefort_fcx.indd 27 8/19/19 1:14 PM


Youth in Full Bloom

Results: Dark Under-eye Circles


The test emulsion containing 0.2% Papaver rhoeas extract also effi-
ciently lightened the color of dark under-eye circles. After eight weeks
treatment, the ITA° value of the under-eye area significantly increased by
11.8%, indicating a lighter skin color (p < 0.05) (see Figure 5).
These findings correlated well with the decrease in visibility of dark
circles observed in digital images (see Figure 6). Similarly to previous
parameters investigated in this study, the placebo treatment did not affect
the color of dark circles, measurably or visibly.

Figure 7. Evolution of under-eye bag volume (%)


after four and eight weeks of treatment

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CT1909_Research_Lefort_fcx.indd 28 8/19/19 1:14 PM


In addition, an improved microcirculation is
Volume of Under-eye Bags helpful to circumvent unattractive dark circles
In relation to under-eye bags, the placebo and puffiness around the eyes, thanks to the
cream did not improve their volume. The test mutualistic interaction between blood and lym-
product with 0.2% Papaver rhoeas extract, phatic vessels. Finally, the previously described
however, clearly diminished their volume and lipolytic activity of Papaver rhoeas extract3, 4 may
appearance during the treatment period (see positively impact the size and distribution of
Figure 7). Combined with the reduction in adipocytes around the eye area, contributing to
coloration of under-eye circles, the overall skin their reduction.
conditions around the eye area was thus visibly
improved after eight weeks of treatment with Conclusions
0.2% Papaver rhoeas extract. Dark circles and under-eye bags are a com-
mon cosmetic problem for many people. These
Discussion conditions affect individuals within a wide age
The cosmetic benefits demonstrated by the range, of both sexes and in all races. Moreover,
test emulsion with 0.2% Papaver rhoeas extract they worsen with the aging processes of skin
may be largely explained by the established sagging and altered subcutaneous fat distribu-
properties of the poppy extract. The improve- tion.10 These issues can become a significant
ment of skin blood microflow can be associated concern and alter the individual’s emotional
with an improved nutrient supply to upper skin well-being and self-esteem. Unfortunately,
tissues. This supports an enabling environment noninvasive treatment options are still limited
for the structural elements of the extracellular and mainly include ingredients focused on skin
matrix, resulting in increased skin tonicity. lightening, vasoconstriction (e.g., caffeine) or

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Youth in Full Bloom

basic coverage (e.g., functional fillers and pigments).


However, the data shown suggests this natural
poppy seed extract can target dark under-eye circles
and puffiness in a new way.
Another widespread cosmetic problem is
age-related sagging skin; and linked to this is the
growing interest in facial-sculpting solutions. As
such, products touting claims such as V-shaped
skin contours may benefit from the densifying
and firming properties demonstrated by Papaver
rhoeas extract.
In summary, the outcomes of the present
clinical investigations confirm the potential of
Papaver rhoeas extract to promote and meet modern
demands for eye-catching, natural and sustainable
beauty solutions.

References
1. Klatschmohn (Poppy). Retrieved from http://www.gardnerian.de/
pflanzen/klatschmohn.htm
2. Papaver rhoeas. Retrieved from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/
Papaver_rhoeas
3. Heider, L., Lefort, M., Carola, C., Hanau, H., Pflücker, F., Bernard,
P., and Himbert, F. (2014). New cosmetic aspects of Papaver
rhoeas. H&PC Today, 9(2), 59-63.
4. Baldecchi, T., Heider, L., Lefort, M., Carola, C, Cartigliani, C.,
Bonfigli, A., and Pflücker, F. (2014). The skin firming 'red-volution':
Anti-cellulite efficacy of a Papaver rhoeas extract. IFSCC, 4,
19-22.
5. Bongard, O., and Bounameaux, H. (1993). Clinical investigation
of skin microcirculation. Dermatology, 186(1), 6-11.
6. Freitag, F. M., and Cestari, T. F. (2007). What causes dark circles
under the eyes? J Cosmet Dermatol. 6(3), 211-5.
7. Graziosi, A. C., Quaresma, M. R., Michalany, N. S., and Ferreira,
L. M. (2013). Cutaneous idiopathic hyperchromia of the orbital
region (CIHOR): A histopathological study. Aesthetic Plast Surg,
37(2), 434-8.
8. Chajra, H., Auriol, D., Schweikert, K., and Lefevre, F. (2014).
Targeting inflammatory pathways to reduce dark circles and puffi-
ness. SÖFW J, 140(4), 16-31.
9. Abbas, K. A., Mohamed, A., Abdulamir, A. S., and Abas, H. A.
(2008). A review on supercritical fluid extraction as a new analyti-
cal method. Am J Biochem Biotech, 4, 345-353.
10. Yaar, M., and Gilchrest, B. A. (2001). Skin aging: Postulated
mechanisms and consequent changes in structure and function.
Clin Geriatr Med, 17, 617–630.

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Research | C&T ®

KEY POINTS
• In order to maintain live bacteria in
cosmetic formulations, preservatives must
be omitted; this poses problems with
handling, storage and safety.
• In response, these authors developed
an ingredient to leverage the benefits
of living probiotics without their
formulating limitations.

Practical Probiotics
Live Microbial
Skin Benefits
Without Limits
I. Meyer, M. Pesaro, D. Stuhlmann, L. Garbe and G. Schmaus
Symrise AG, Holzminden, Germany
K. Holmgren and N. Larsson
Probi AB, Lund, Sweden

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Practical Probiotics

Mild heat treatment and spray drying were


used to prohibit further bacterial growth
while also maintaining the now nonliving
bacteria structures.

Editor’s note: Readers should note the World the host.3 However, in order to maintain live
Health Organization (WHO) defines a probiotic bacteria in cosmetic formulations, preservatives
as a living organism. Here, however, the described
must be omitted; this results in considerable
probiotic, while retaining the structures of its living
counterpart, is not in fact alive; although the authors problems with handling, storage and the safety

D
report its activities behave as such and the ingredient of respective finished market products. To
imparts the benefits of a living entity. circumvent these hurdles, the present authors
sought to develop a probiotic-derived ingredient
combining the skin health benefits of a living
probiotic with the physical advantages of a clas-
sical cosmetic ingredient; i.e., being relatively
easy to use and compatible in a wide range of
riven by modern cosmetic formulations and applications.
lifestyle and the In a broad screening stepa, a specific
eclectic evolution of Lactobacillus strain was identified for topical
new technologies, applications: Lactobacillus plantarum HEAL19.
consumers are aware This strain initially was isolated and identifiedb
of the potential skin from the gut of a healthy Swedish individual.
damage environmental stressors can induce. After biofermentation, downstream process-
As such, consumers increasingly seek topical ing including mild heat treatment and spray
products that improve skin’s endogenous first- drying were used to prohibit further bacterial
line defense mechanisms. growth while also maintaining the now nonliv-
In relation, the concept of probiotics to ing bacteria structures. The resulting processed
improve gut health is well-established in both probiotic could be handled as a traditional
the scientific literature and consumer percep- cosmetic ingredient in many different types of
tion.1 In fact, 79% of consumers already believe formulations, even those protected by preserva-
the use of probiotics is beneficial for skin health2 tives (data not shown), while also delivering
and 63% of consumers think probiotics fit well living probiotic-like skin health benefits, as will
into the beauty care category. Regardless, the be shown.
benefits of microorganisms applied topically are
not widely described. Materials and Methods
According to the WHO, probiotics are living Heat-treated microbes: Living freeze-dried
microorganisms that, when administered in Lactobacillus were obtainedb. After cultivation,
adequate amounts, confer a health benefit on the bacteria were centrifuged and pasteurized
under mild conditions. The water was then
removed from the slurry by procedural drying.
The global cosmetic probiotic market is Filaggrin synthesis in human skin
explants: To assess the ability of the processed
anticipated to reach US $37.8 million by 2025,
probioticc to boost the skin barrier, filaggrin
climbing at a CAGR of 7.6% between 2017
and 2025.
a
The screening process was developed by Symrise.
b
Microbe identification, isolation and freeze drying was
performed by Probi AB.
Source: Hexa Research c
SymReboot L19 (INCI: Maltodextrin (and)
Lactobacillus Ferment)

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Figure 1. Living, freeze-dried bacteria (a) and the nonliving, heat-treated and
spray-dried bacteria (b)

biosynthesis was analyzed ex vivo in human


skin explants derived from abdominal plastic
surgery. These skin samples were first cut into
pieces of approximately 8 mm × 3 mm (diam-
eter × thickness) and cultured for 3 days. After a
24-hr acclimation, the processed probiotic was
dissolved in DMSO and applied topically. After
6 days of incubation, filaggrin immunostain-
ing was performed. Filaggrin was quantified
by image analysis and the filaggrin-obtained
data was normalized upon the length of the
basal lamina.
Anti-inflammatory effects in vitro: To
determine the skin-soothing benefits of the test
material, HaCaT keratinocytes were prepared in
a 96-well plate. Before incubation with the pro-
cessed probiotic, the cells were cultivated under
starvation conditions. The test compounds
were then applied in starvation medium and
incubated for 48 hr. IL-1a was used as an IL-8
release stimulator and added at 30 ng/mL.
Alternatively, a heat-inactivated Staphylococ-
In ex vivo human skin explants after topical treatment for 6 days
cus aureus (DSM799) suspension was used as
pro-inflammatory agent in a concentration of
0.5 mg/mL dry mass. Dexamethasone was used Figure 2. Filaggrin up-regulation
as positive control. After 8 hr of incubation,

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Practical Probiotics

IL-8 concentrations in the supernatants were reconstructed epidermal 3D models, which were
analyzed by ELISA technique. treated systemically by the processed probiotic.
Antimicrobial peptide (AMP) gene induc- After 48 hr of incubation, models were lysed
tion in 3D skin models: AMP induction, and RNA was isolated. Reverse transcrip-
indicative of improvements in skin’s endogenous tion and quantitative real-time PCR were
defenses, was measured in vitro with human performed using Taq-Man Array fast 96-well

a) b)

After 48 hr pre-treatment with 0.02% processed probiotic and stimulation with S. aureus (a) and IL-1a (b)

Figure 3. IL-8 release

a) b)

S100A7 (psoriasin) (a) and S100A8 and S100A9 (Calprotectin complex or Calgranulin)(b)

Figure 4. Induction of AMP genes after treatment with processed probiotic

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CT1909_Research_Schmaus_fcx.indd 58 8/19/19 4:49 PM


Barrier integrity improved with use of the
processed probiotic, as shown by decreased
TEWL and increased skin capacitance.

plates. Quantification analysis was performed by


the 2-DCT method and an RQ value of > 2 was
defined as a relevant gene induction. PODCAST
Effects on dry skin in vivo: To assess the
ability of the test material to improve skin Click below to listen to the full podcast.
dryness, an in vivo study in 29 subjects hav-
ing severely dry skin was performed in Brazil
during the winter in a double-blind, randomized
manner and in comparison with a placebo and
untreated skin. A cosmetic o/w formulation
containing 0.1% of the processed probiotic
was evaluated.
Before the study, participants engaged in a
2-week wash out period during which they were
instructed to wash their forearms twice daily
with a provided bar of soap and to not apply any
other product to their forearms. During the test
period of 42 days, subjects applied the sample

Continued on Page DM21

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Practical Probiotics

Figure 5. TEWL reduction by 0.1% processed probiotic, versus placebo and untreated skin

Figure 6. Improvement in skin capacitance by 0.1% processed probiotic versus placebo and
untreated skin

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Figure 7. In vivo effects on skin dryness score over 45 days of 0.1% processed probiotic
application, versus placebo and untreated

a) b)

At Day 0 (baseline) (a) and Day 28 after treatment (b) (subject #42)

Figure 8. Visible in vivo effects of processed probiotic on skin dryness

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Practical Probiotics

Continued from Page DM18 (in red) in cross-sections after 5 days of topical
treatment with the processed probiotic. Incu-
formulas twice daily to their inner forearms. bation with 0.05% and 0.5% of the probiotic
This application period was followed by a 3-day ingredient led to significant, dose-dependent
post-treatment phase. filaggrin induction by 42% and 77%, respectively
Measurements took place at days 0 (see Figure 2 on Page DM16). This suggested
(baseline), 7, 14, 28, 42 and 45—i.e., 42 days the processed probiotic was suitable for skin
of treatment + 3 days post-treatment—and barrier-strengthening benefits.
included the parameters of transepidermal Anti-inflammatory effects in vitro: The IL-8
water loss (TEWL), skin hydration/capacitance release from HaCaT keratinocytes after stimula-
and dryness scoring by a trained expert. tion with IL-1a was inhibited by the positive
control dexamethasone, as well as by the pro-
Results cessed probiotic (see Figure 3 on Page DM17).
Heat-treated microbes: The final processed Furthermore, when IL-8 release was stimulated
probiotic cosmetic ingredient was a beige by the S. aureus suspension, only the test probi-
powder. When viewed under a microscope, otic ingredient could inhibit its elevated release.
the heat-treated bacteria appeared much like The positive control, dexamethasone, had no
their living counterparts (see Figure 1 on Page effect. Hence, the processed probiotic demon-
DM16). The bacterial structures appear to be strated specific anti-inflammatory efficacy in
unchanged by the mild processing and no living vitro against the bacterial stimulation.
colony forming units (CFUs) were found. AMP gene induction in 3D skin models:
Filaggrin synthesis in human skin The psoriasin (S100A7) gene was induced dose-
explants: As noted, effects on barrier function- dependently up to 32.7-fold by the processed
ing were investigated in human skin explants by probiotic in 3D skin models after 48 hr of sys-
analyzing filaggrin content via immunostaining temic treatment (see Figure 4 on Page DM17).

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In addition, the genes
encoding the S100A8 and
S100A9 proteins of the
Calprotectin complex, also
known as Calgranulin, were
induced dose-dependently
up to 8-fold and 16-fold,
respectively, by the
processed probiotic.
Effects on dry skin in
vivo: After just 7 days, skin
barrier integrity improved
with the application of the
processed probiotic, as
measured by the significant
reduction in TEWL of
10.6% versus untreated and
5.6% versus placebo (see
Figure 5 on Page DM19).
Hydration, measured as
skin capacitance, was sig-
nificantly increased by the
processed probiotic; 11.6%
versus untreated and 6.9%
versus placebo, also after 7 Skin dryness was scored by a trained expert and after 42 days of test product application, the
days of use (see Figure 6 on dryness score decreased.
Page DM19).
As noted, skin dryness was scored by a to up-regulate AMPs in keratinocytes, as shown
trained expert and after 42 days of test product in vitro in reconstructed skin.
application, the dryness score decreased by The ingredient's efficacy was finally proven
7.4% versus untreated and 3.4% versus placebo clinically in subjects with severely dry skin,
(see Figure 7 on Page DM20). This effect was where a significant reduction in TEWL and
significant versus the placebo for the entire improvement in skin hydration, versus the
study period and the improvements in signs placebo, was achieved within one week. The
of dryness were visible (see Figure 8 on Page dryness score, as evaluated by an expert, also
DM20). During the post-treatment phase, from significantly improved versus the placebo during
days 42 to 45, all three evaluated parameters the 6-week study duration.
were improved when the processed probiotic In conclusion, the processed probiotic was
formulation was applied beforehand, demon- shown to deliver the skin care advantages and
strating the protective effect by this ingredient benefits of living probiotics without their for-
against the stressor—e.g., bar soap washing. mulation limitations (data not shown). Results
suggest the ingredient is relevant for sensitive
Discussion and Conclusions and dry skin care, atopic-prone skin, as well as
Here, a specific and potent Lactobacillus baby, face and body care.
strain was identified for topical application: Lac-
tobacillus plantarum HEAL19. According to the
References
described studies, mildly heat-treating the ingre-
1. Reid, G., Younes, J. A., Van der Mei, H. C., Gloor, G. B.,
dient did not impact its ability to strengthen the Knight, R. and Busscher, H. J. (2011). Retrieved from
barrier and improve skin moisture, as shown https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/21113182
in vitro and ex vivo. Furthermore, it did not 2. Symrise (2017). Internal Cosmetic Ingredients Consumer
affect its potential to soothe skin, as shown Study (CICS).

in vitro by anti-inflammatory effects. Heat 3. FAO/WHO (2001). Definition of probiotics. Retrieved from
http://www.fao.org/3/a-a0512e.pdf
treatment also did not undermine its capability

Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019 Cosmetics & Toiletries® | DM22

CT1909_Research_Schmaus_fcx.indd 63 8/19/19 4:50 PM


Testing | C&T ®

KEY POINTS
• UV reflectance and fluorescence
photography can provide insights into skin
conditions that are otherwise not visible.

• This paper describes how these techniques


can effectively measure sun protection, dry
skin, acne and the microbiome, to aid in
product development.

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CT1909_Testing_Crowther_fcx.indd 32 8/20/19 10:01 AM


THE BIG
Reveal
UV Imaging Uncovers Sun Protection,
Skin Dryness and Microbiome
Jonathan Crowther, Ph.D.
JMC Scientific Consulting Ltd., Egham, Surrey, UK

O ur world typi-
cally appears in
an abundance
of colors from
which we derive
a vast amount
of information. Despite this, our eyes are still
only sensitive to a relatively narrow range of
wavelengths—from approximately 390-720 nm.
As such, while standard visible light imaging of
the skin provides a good amount of information
about skin condition, such as redness, erythema,
that is not perceivable by normal visible light
imaging. Imaging in these regions does come
with complexities, though; such as the need for
specialized camera equipment, lenses, lighting
and subject handling.
Given this added complexity, the reader may
wonder whether these techniques are worth
the effort and of what value they can be to skin
care research. As the present article reveals, UV
reflectance and fluorescence imaging can indeed
benefit skin research. It also provides sugges-
tions and advice to successfully apply these
overall appearance and skin tone, our eyes are types of photography.
not sensitive to the broader spectral ranges as
low as 300 nm and as high as 3,000 nm. Getting the Picture
At shorter wavelengths is UV light, while As a foundation for the present discussion,
longer wavelengths signify infrared (IR) radia- it is first useful to visualize how skin appears in
tion. These both interact with skin differently UV reflectance photography; pictures of the skin
than visible light and can provide information under UV and normal visible light are shown

Did isyou
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prohibited. 2019 Allured Business Media. Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 33

CT1909_Testing_Crowther_fcx.indd 33 8/20/19 10:01 AM


The Big Reveal

in Figure 1 to highlight the differences. Visible


The global sunscreen cream market was light imaging of a subject in sunlight using a
valued at $8.25 billion in 2018 and will reach standard camera (see Figure 1a) produces a
$11.71 billion by the end of 2025, growing at a typical photograph showing skin tone and color.
CAGR of 5.1% in this time frame. White and dark hairs can be seen in the beard
and scalp areas, and it is possible to make out
faint, darker pigmented areas such as moles on
Source: MarketWatch the skin.

a) b)

c)

Figure 1. Facial photographs taken with visible (a), UV (b) and transmission spectra (c) filters

34 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019

CT1909_Testing_Crowther_fcx.indd 34 8/20/19 10:01 AM


Unexpected suncare
Explore unique sensory innovations
The sensoriality of sunscreens is a major concern and a
challenge for formulators. Addition of UV filters to cosmetics
brings greasiness and stickiness that are difficult to hide and
unpleasant to the consumer.
To meet consumer expectations and provide UV protection
that is a pleasure to use, Gattefossé has applied its sensory
and formulation expertise to the field of suncare. In addition,
Gattefossé invested in a UV camera, which allows to visualize
the photoprotective film once applied on the skin and thus
bring an additional help in the formulation of effective suncare
products that last throughout the day.

O/W emulsion based on Emulium® Delta MB containing organic UV filters only

Just after application 3 hours after application

W/O emulsion based on Emulium® Illustro containing organic UV filters


only and a film former

Just after application 3 hours after application

This work is the subject of a poster showcased at the


Sunscreen Symposium in Orlando in September 12th to 13th, 2019.
gattefosse.com/personal-care-trend/unexpected-suncare

People make our name

CT16_ad_template.indd 1 8/12/19 4:40 PM


The Big Reveal

It is crucial to develop
products that have
both the ability to
block or absorb UV
and are easily applied,
forming an even,
effective layer on skin.
The interaction of light with skin is a
complex process in which a number of things
can happen. Light can be reflected from either
the surface of the stratum corneum (SC) or from
the interface between different layers within
the skin. It also can be absorbed or induce
fluorescence, where the incoming light interacts
with specific chemical entities within the skin
and is then reemitted at a longer wavelength.
Examples of UV-induced fluorescence in skin
are given in Figure 2. Here, fluorescence imag-
ing emphasizes the presence of drier skin, which
appears as lighter colors. Fluorescence also gen-
erates a variety of colors in bacteria-rich areas,
such as within pores on the nose and forehead.
These images were taken in a darkened room
with a standard SLR camera and lens but with
Images of skin taken via UV light have a
a flashlight modified to produce UVA light and
much different appearance. In the reflected
block visible light.
UV light image, skin looks darker than under
Following, the ben-
visible light (see Figure 1b). This is because the
efits of UV reflectance
absorption of light by melanin rises as the wave-
and fluorescence
length shortens, resulting in stronger absorption
imaging, along
of the UV wavelengths compared with visible
with application
light. UV light also accentuates the surface
tips, are covered in
texture of skin, making lines and wrinkles seem
more detail.
more prominent. In these figures, the subject’s
glasses also now appear black, as they have a
UV protective coating on them that absorbs
UV
UV light and prevents it from reaching the Reflectance
eyes. Furthermore, the UV image is presented Imaging of
in monochrome and was taken on a standard
single lens reflex (SLR) camera converted to
Sunscreens
multispectral imaging. As will be discussed later, UV-related
the choice of lens and filter, as well as camera skin damage is a
and light source, are all vital to consider when widespread issue
imaging in UV. Finally, the transmission spectra with more than
of the filters used for the images are shown in 130,000 new cases
Figure 1c. of skin cancer being

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CT1909_Testing_Crowther_fcx.indd 36 8/20/19 10:01 AM


diagnosed each year in the U.K. alone—and
whereby UV radiation is attributed as the
main preventable cause.1 As such, formulat- a)
ing efficacious and protective sunscreen
products is vital for both the consumer and
pharmaceutical markets. To ensure prod-
ucts are successful, UV reflectance imaging
or photography can be applied.
This technique basically involves shining
UV light on skin and capturing the portion
reflected in an image taken by a camera.
This approach is widely used in a variety of
research fields including forensics and der-
matology. It is different from UV-induced
fluorescence, where the incoming UV light
causes skin to emit visible or IR light, which b)
is subsequently photographed; this will be
discussed later.
For UV reflectance imaging, UVA is used
since UVB is more damaging to skin. Fur-
thermore, standard commercial cameras
have virtually no sensitivity below 300 nm.
UVB imaging therefore has less direct appli-
cability to skin research than even standard
photographic equipment.
Product insights: Capturing accurate
UV reflectance photographs of the distribu-
tion of sunscreens during spreading can
provide insight into their potential for sun
protection, including how they cover areas
that are often missed during application,
such as around the eyes.2
With the sun protection
factor (SPF) scale being
c)
logarithmic, as higher
and higher numbers are
attained, the amount
of UV being absorbed
before it reaches the skin
gets closer and closer
to 100%. This makes it
more difficult to test for
improvements in the SPF
protection offered by
higher grades of sun-
screens. In relation, the
spreading of sunscreen
ingredients has a dramatic
impact on the overall
protection offered by the
film, since thinner areas of
Figure 2. UV-induced visible fluorescence of the back of the
the applied film will more
neck (a), close-up on the cheek area (b) and full face (c).
readily allow increased

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The Big Reveal

Dry corneocytes fluoresce and emit visible


light. This enables the imaging of dry skin,
psoriasis, sunscreen remanence, etc.
levels of UV to penetrate and damage the skin.3, 4 been reported for the UV imaging of sunscreens,
Challenges: One key issue when using UV topical formulations or other applications
reflectance photography is the shine that occurs of UV digital reflectance imaging.5 By using
when intense directional light is reflected from cross-polarized UV reflectance photography, the
the films of topically applied creams, which difference between a well- and poorly spreading
results in a bright specular reflection. This can product can be seen (see Figure 4).
be seen on the subject’s face in Figure 3, where Optimizing formulas: The poorly spreading
the sunscreen appears dark but with bright product (see Figure 4a) shows visible streaks
white highlight areas on the sunscreen film. from the spreading process. The light areas are
In order to minimize shine in visible light where the film is thinner and, as such, absorbs
photographs, cross polarization can be used, less of the incoming UV light. The well-spread-
whereby the light source and camera lenses ing product (see Figure 4b) shows a much more
have polarizers mounted on them at 90 degrees homogeneous finish, with no obvious streaks
to each other, thereby eliminating specular from the application process. This would result
shine and revealing structures deeper inside the in a more consistent sun protection behavior.
skin. While this process is well-established for The spreading of a sunscreen product is
visible light photography, it has only recently important since, as noted, there is a strong

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CT1909_Testing_Crowther_fcx.indd 38 8/20/19 10:01 AM


correlation between effective in vivo
SPF and the thickness of the applied
sunscreen film. It is therefore crucial
to develop products that both have
the ability to block or absorb UV and
are easily applied to skin, promot-
ing their use by consumers while
also forming an even, effective layer
on skin.
Equipment: The choice of imag-
ing equipment is crucial to capturing
UV reflectance photographs. As
noted, camera sensitivity—especially
to UVB but also to UV in general—is
low even when the device is modified
for UV imaging.6 To improve this
parameter, the simplest approach
is to remove the internal UV/IR
blocking filters from the camera and
replace them with either a quartz
window or a filter that only allows
UV light to filter through.
An even simpler approach is to
place suitable filters in front of the
lens, which enables the camera to be
easily used for imaging at different
wavelengths. This may seem like an Figure 3. UV reflectance photograph taken
ideal route for the researcher; how- in sunlight showing sunscreen on the subject's
ever, he or she should bear in mind
left side of the face. Shine appears as a white
that UV-transmitting filters block
reflection against the black sunscreen film.
visible light and therefore make it

a) b)

Figure 4. Cross-polarized UV reflectance photographs of a poorly spreading


product (a) and well-spreading product (b)

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CT1909_Testing_Crowther_fcx.indd 39 8/20/19 10:01 AM


The Big Reveal

nearly impossible to see the subject through the be seen through the viewfinder, is an alternative.
viewfinder of the camera, although “Live View” Lens choice: Lens choice also is important,
can still sometimes be used. This limitation since most modern camera lenses contain UV-
can be a complicating factor when imaging in blocking materials and as such are not ideal for
a clinical setting, so placing the UV conversion UVA imaging. If standard camera and enlarger
filter directly in front of the sensor to produce a lenses are used, it is important to note that
dedicated UV camera, where the subject can still any light transmitted will shift toward the long
wavelength end of the UVA spectrum.
As such, any normal camera lens
intended to be used for UV reflectance
a) imaging should ideally be tested
against a more specialized UV lens for
suitability.
The Asahi Ultra Achromatic
Takumar 85 mm f4.5 lens is special-
ized and contains quartz and calcium
fluoride elements rather than glass.
As such, it is ideal for imaging in
UV, visible and IR lights. It is, how-
ever, rare and not readily available.
Other lenses ideally suitable for UV
reflectance photography include the
UV-Nikkor Macro 105 mm f4.5, cur-
rently manufactured as the Rayfact
PF10545MF-UV; the Hasselblad 105
mm f4.3 UV-Sonnar; and the Jenoptik
105 mm and 60 mm macro lenses.
Filter choice: As with lens choice,
it is vital to choose the correct filter
to enable UV to pass through while
b) preventing the transmission of visible
and IR light. A wide range of filters
exists that claim to be suitable for UV
photography, but not all are ideal for
use with modern digital cameras. The
issue comes about due to the sensi-
tivity of camera sensors compared
with film.
Earlier types of UV-passing filters,
such as B+W 403, Kodak #18A, Schott
UG1, Schott UG11, and Hoya U-330
to U-360, do allow UVA and even, in
some cases, UVB to pass through and
block the majority of visible light.
However, they also allow varying
degrees of IR light to pass through.
For film cameras, this was not a
problem—orthochromatic film was
sensitive to UV light, but not IR and,
Figure 5. Normal (a) and cross-polarized (b) UVA image as a result, it did not matter whether
of an SPF 50 sunscreen film applied to skin at a dose of the filter allowed IR to pass through.
2 µL/cm 2 Modern camera sensors, however,
are highly sensitive to IR; much more
so than they are to UV. Therefore,

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CT1909_Testing_Crowther_fcx.indd 40 8/20/19 10:01 AM


filters that allow even small amounts of IR to known as the “Baader U,” which is extremely
pass through are to be avoided, or IR-blocking effective at blocking IR. Other filter options for
filters should be used in combination with them. UVA reflectance imaging include the LaLa U,
Many researchers who utilize UV reflectance offered by UVIROptics, USA; and the conversions
imaging use the current version of the Baader offered by Advanced Camera Services Ltd., UK,
Planetarium Ultraviolet Venus filter, commonly as these are also highly effective at blocking IR.

a) b) c)

Figure 6. Visioscan images from normal (a), dry (b) and severely dry (c) skin

a) b)

Fluorescence of a subject shows that the PpIX fluorescence spots are mainly localized in the T-zone and area surrounding the nose, while the CpIII
fluorescence spots can be located anywhere on the subject’s face; reproduced with permission from Reference 11.

Figure 7. Facial porphyrin distribution of CpIII fluorescence (a) and PpIX (b)

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The Big Reveal

Light source: The choice of light source UVA imaging is directly applicable for direct
also is important. Sunlight is comprised of a measurements of sunscreen wash-off in real-life,
wide range of wavelengths from UV through in vivo and in-use situations.
IR; however, its intensity and distribution of Calibration: Finally, with visible light
wavelengths varies as a function of time of day, imaging, calibrating the amount of UVA being
time of year, geographical location and cloud reflected from the skin surface can be extremely
cover, so it is far from the ideal light source for useful; for example, when trying to understand
research. Camera flashes normally have coatings the amount of UV being absorbed by a sun-
or filters on them to minimize the amount of screen film. Standard camera calibration charts
UV they emit. Ideally, the skin researcher should are unsuitable for UV reflectance photography,
check the flash suitability using a spectrometer however, as their optical properties vary sub-
before assuming that quartz tubes offer more stantially across the UVA range. Spectralon
UV than uncoated glass tubes. diffuse reflectance standards, or simpler stan-
dards made using a mixture of carbon black,
plaster of Paris and magnesium oxide, can

It is vital to consider instead be used to establish the amount of UVA


reflected from the skin during imaging.9

all aspects of the Fluorescence Imaging of


imaging process to Dry Skin and Microbiome
As noted above, when UV light interacts
ensure that reliable with skin, it can be absorbed, reflected without
changing wavelength, or absorbed and reemit-
and reproducible ted at a longer wavelength through the process

images can be
of fluorescence. Imaging this light is simpler
for the researcher from the standpoint of the

captured. camera equipment required; since visible light is


typically reemitted, standard lenses and cameras
can be used.
The key to successfully implementing fluo-
Another parameter that must be considered rescence imaging is effectively blocking all other
when imaging in vivo is the exposure of the potential light sources from the skin and camera
subject to UV light. Therefore, both the wave- during the photographic process. In the case
length distribution and intensity of the light of skin imaging, the area to be photographed
sources must be assessed before they are used must be kept in the darkness, which is relatively
to illuminate skin.7 Putting all these factors straightforward for smaller body sites but if
together, i.e., camera choice and modification, larger areas are to be photographed, this can
lens, filter and light source, can enable the skin become complex.
researcher to capture cross-polarized UV images Dry skin imaging: When UVA light shines
of the skin and sunscreen films in vivo, such as on skin, it can interact in a number of ways. Dry
those shown in Figure 5.8 corneocytes fluoresce, resulting in the emission
As can be seen, the sunscreen film on the of visible light. This principle of UV-induced
subject’s skin appears dark since it is strongly visible light fluorescence (UVVLF) is behind
UV-absorbent, even in the UVA range. The Courage and Khazaka’s Visioscan VC98 camera,
nonpolarized image shows shine bands on the commonly used for imaging dry skin, psoriasis,
sunscreen, which are typically seen when photo- sunscreen remanence on skin and mosaic mela-
graphing topical creams using a flash for light. noderm patterns. Specifically, the camera uses
Cross-polarizing the light source and camera a UVA light to create gray scale images, 6 mm
effectively eliminates this shine and enables × 8 mm in size, both in vitro and in vivo. Image
the amount of UVA being absorbed by the film analysis can then be conducted to determine
to be imaged. By eliminating the shine bands the amount of dry skin present. Example in vivo
from the product, which normally hide the images from normal, dry and severely dry skin
amount of UV being absorbed, cross-polarized are shown in Figure 6.

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CT1909_Testing_Crowther_fcx.indd 42 8/20/19 10:01 AM


These images clearly show a dermatoglyphic its flexibility and is able to move as we do.
pattern, which also provides information as to However, as the SC begins to dry out, it loses
the distribution and location of skin dryness. its flexibility and becomes stiffer, and begins to
In normal skin, shown in Figure 6a, the edges delaminate and crack. Once that process begins,
of the dermatoglyphic lines do not show the the corneocyte layers become detached from
typical whitening indicative of dry skin. As the the skin and are exposed to the air on both the
skin becomes drier, see Figure 6b, this dryness top and bottom sides, further accelerating their
initially appears along the edges of the dermato- drying rate.
glyphic lines. In extreme dryness, see Figure 6c, In cases of extreme dryness, even the SC
fluorescence now occurs at the edges of the between the dermatoglyphic lines starts to dry
dermatoglyphic lines and across the plateau out and crack, as can be seen by the widening
regions between the lines, indicating more extent of the fluorescence in the images.
widespread dryness. This can provide insight as In this way, fluorescence imaging of the
to how skin dryness evolves and progresses. skin can provide valuable insight into the
The dermatoglyphic lines move like an evolution of dry skin. It also emphasizes
accordion as the skin is flexed, so regions the over-simplification of classifying skin as
around the edges are subject to bending and homogeneously “normal” or “dry.” Finally, it
flexing. In normal skin, which does not show shows how maintaining the flexibility of the SC,
signs of excessive dryness, the SC maintains especially in areas subject to a high degree of

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CT1909_Testing_Crowther_fcx.indd 43 8/21/19 4:51 PM


The Big Reveal

and forehead, and their color is determined by


the fluorescence of the porphyrins present.
For example, the lipophile Propionobac-
terium acnes (P. acnes) fluoresces strongly in
the orange-green part of the visible spectrum;
specifically in the 570-630 nm region. This is
due to the porphyrin Coproporphyrin III (CpIII).
On the other hand, Protoporphyrin IX (PpIX)
mainly fluoresces in the red part of the spectrum
> 630 nm.11 By imaging the fluorescence of skin
and examining the different color channels, the
skin sites with higher levels of P. acnes bacteria,
for example, can be determined (see Figure 7).11
Indeed, by splitting the visible light signal into
the red and green channels, measurements of
CpIII and PpIX fluorescence have been identi-
fied in full-facial images of acne subjects and
associated with lesion-specific inflammation,
i.e., acne spots, with papulopustular lesions.11
The ability to derive information on the
nature of the bacteria present on skin, based on
the color at which their porphyrins fluoresce,
opens up the possibility of mapping bacterial
distribution on the skin; for instance during
the progression of atopic eczema; or during
the process of washing and cleansing, where
the normal bacterial population of the skin
can become disturbed. Commercially available
imaging systems that use this phenomenon to
image porphyrins on skin include the Visia from

flexing and bending, such as at the edges of the


dermatoglyphic lines, can be crucial to prevent-
ing further drying and cracking.
Microbiome imaging: As noted, illuminating
the skin with UVA produces a strong fluores-
cence effect in the visible spectrum—some
of which comes from porphyrins from the
bacteria present on skin. The color of this
fluorescence can be used to derive informa-
tion about the presence and location of
certain bacterial species on skin, as the color
is driven by the chemical characteristics and
structure of the porphyrins, which are specific
to certain bacteria.10, 11
Example images of UV-induced visible light
fluorescence of the skin are shown in Figure 2.
As can be seen especially in Figure 2c, there
are bright points of light on the skin’s surface
that exhibit a variety of colors. These points are
associated with pores, especially on the nose

44 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019

CT1909_Testing_Crowther_fcx.indd 44 8/20/19 10:02 AM


Canfield Scientific Inc., and Visiopor PP 34 N 5. Crowther, J. M. (Apr 2018). Understanding sunscreen
SPF performance using cross-polarized UVA reflectance
from Courage and Khazaka. photography. Int J Cosmet Sci, 40(2), 127-133.
6. Crowther, J. M. (2019). Understanding color reproduction in
Conclusions multispectral imaging: Measuring camera sensor response
in the ultraviolet, visible and infrared. Imaging Science J,
UV reflectance and fluorescence imaging of
67(5), 268-276.
the skin, while at times add complexities to the 7. British Police Scientific Data Branch (PSDB) (Jul 2001).
logistics of image capture, can provide novel Revised guidelines for the use of flash guns emitting ultra-
insights into skin’s form and function that are violet light for the photography of evidence. Crime Scene
Investigation Sector, Sandridge, St Albans, AL4 9HQ.
nearly impossible to observe with standard
8. Crowther, J. M. (2018). Cross polarized UVA photography
visible light photography. Using the correct for the imaging of sunscreens. ISBS Conference San Diego.
combination of camera system, lens, lighting 9. Crowther, J.M. (2018). Calibrating UVA reflectance photo-
and filters, a wide range of skin conditions can graphs—Standardization using a low cost method. J Vis
be imaged by the researcher. However, it is vital Commun Med, 41(3), 109-117.
to consider all aspects of the imaging process, 10. Borelli, C., et al. (2006). In vivo porphyrin production by
P. acnes in untreated acne patients and its modulation by
especially when dealing with non-visible light acne treatment. Acta Derm Venereol, 86(4), 316-319.
imaging, to ensure that reliable and reproduc- 11. Patwardhan, S. V., Richter, C., Vogt, A., Blume-Peytavi, U.,
ible images can be captured. Canfield, D., and Kottner, J. (2017). Measuring acne using
Coproporphyrin III, Protoporphyrin IX and lesion-specific
inflammation: An exploratory study. Arch Dermatol Res,
References 309(3), 159-167.
1. Cancer Research UK. Melanoma skin cancer statistics.
Retrieved from http://www.cancerresearchuk.org/health-
professional/cancer-statistics/statistics-by-cancer-type/
skin-cancer#heading-Zero
2. Pratt, H., et al. (2017). UV imaging reveals facial areas that
are prone to skin cancer are disproportionately missed
during sunscreen application. PLoS One, 12(10), e0185297. C&T Sponsored Webcast Videos
3. Azurdia, R. M., Pagliaro, J. A., Diffey, B. L., and Rhodes, L. Find current and upcoming webcasts at
E. (1999). Sunscreen application by photosensitive patients www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
is inadequate for protection. Br J Dermatol, 140, 255–258.
4. Stokes, R., and Diffey, B. (1997). How well are sunscreen
users protected? Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed,
13, 186-188.

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CT1909_Testing_Crowther_fcx.indd 45 8/20/19 10:02 AM


Testing | C&T ®

KEY POINTS
• Product quality and consumer health are
on the line when it comes to a product's
microbiology and stability status.

• This article describes testing guidelines


in both the U.S. and EU to assist
the formulator with methodology
and production.

Editor's note: This series serves as


a primer for the cosmetic development
process. This third installment covers
accepted methods of microbiology and
stability testing in the EU and U.S.; future
installments will cover claims, manufac-
turing and market launch.

Disclaimer: Check with your


regulatory specialist to review your
specific product and situation.

Be sure to catch up!

Check out Page 20 in both our January


and May digital magazine for parts 1
and 2 of this series, respectively.

Reproduction in English or any other language of


46 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
facebook.com/CandTmagazine
Cosmetics
all or part of this article & prohibited.
is strictly Toiletries @cosmeticsandtoiletries
Vol. 134, No. 9 | September 2019
© 2019 Allured Business Media.

CT1909_Testing_Yvon_fcx.indd 46 8/20/19 4:19 PM


Back to
Basics III Testing for Preservation
and Stability

Pascal Yvon
BioSciences Expansion, LLC, Newtown, PA U.S.

C osmetic
products
are not
expected
to be
completely
free of all microorganisms. However,
products: 1) must be free from the
numbers and types of microorganisms
that could affect product quality and
consumer health, and 2) must ensure
that microorganisms introduced
during normal product use will also
not affect the product quality and
consumer health.
Manufacturers are responsible
for the microbiological quality
of their products, which can be
confirmed as defined above by
performing two series of tests:

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.
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Back to Basics III

Many cosmetic products provide optimum


conditions for microbial growth as they
contain water, nutrients, the right pH and
other growth factors.

provide optimum conditions for microbial


Consumer perception is, in part, expected to growth as they contain water, nutrients, the
shape the future of cosmetic preservatives, right pH and other growth factors. In addi-
with increasing demand for personal care tion, the ambient temperatures and relative
humidity at which many cosmetic products are
sparking usage in the Asia-Pacific region.
manufactured, stored and used by consumers
can promote microbial growth that could cause
Source: Persistence Market harm to users or degrade the product. For these
Research types of products, the quality of finished goods
is controlled by applying cosmetic good manu-
facturing practices and using preservatives.
Per the risk assessment, three categories can
1. Microbiology testing after product manu- be established:
facturing to verify the requirements for:
1. Cosmetics with low microbiological risk.
a. Microbiological limits and
For example, those having:
b. Absence of pathogens/free of
a. Water activity aw £ 0.6;
harmful microorganisms.
b. pH £ 3% and ≥ 10%;
2. Preservative Efficacy Testing (PET) or c. Alcohol content ≥ 20%;
Challenge Testing (CT) to verify the pres- d. Production filing temperature
ervation platform is effectively ensuring o
> 65 C; or
the product is safe to use over time, and
that a microbial
contamination
Table 1. Microbiological Limits for Finished Cosmetic
will not develop.
Products (ISO 17516:2014) 2

The ISO 29621:2017


norm helps cosmetic
manufacturers to Products specifically
determine the risk level intended for children
and the products that Microorganisms < 3 years, or used in and All other products
present a low risk of around the eye area or on
microbial contamina- mucous membranes
tion during production
or use. The degree of Total aerobic
risk depends on the mesophilic
≤ 1 x 103 CFU/g
ability of a product to microorganisms, ≤ 1 x 102 CFU/g or mL
or /mL
support the growth of i.e.; bacteria, yeast
microorganisms, along
and mold
with the probability
E. coli, P. aeruginosa,
that those microorgan- Absence in 1 g
S. aureus and Absence in 1 g or 1 mL
isms can cause harm or 1 mL
C. albicans
to the users.1 Many
cosmetic products

48 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019

CT1909_Testing_Yvon_fcx.indd 48 8/21/19 4:52 PM


e. Raw materials that create a
hostile environment.
2. Single-use cosmetics and products that cannot
be opened (e.g., aerosols)
3. All other cosmetics.

For products with low microbiological risk, both


microbiology testing and the CT can be waived (with
justification). For single-use products and products
that cannot be opened, the CT is not necessary on the
finished product (see below). All other products need
to undergo both tests.

Microbiology Testing
In Europe, the ISO 17516:2014 norm provides
qualitative and quantitative microbiological limits.2
Special care must be taken both with products
used in, on or around the eye area and mucous
membranes, and with products intended for use on
children under three years of age. Products should
be free from E. coli, S. aureus, P. aeruginosa and
C. albicans in 1 g or 1 mL samplings of the product
(see Table 1).
ISO Cosmetics–Microbiology norms are used for
enumeration and specific detection as follows:

• ISO 21149:2017: Enumeration and detection


of aerobic mesophilic bacteria;
• ISO 16212:2017: Enumeration of yeast
and mold;
• ISO 22717:2015: Detection of P. aeruginosa;
• ISO 22718:2015: Detection of S. aureus;
• ISO 21150:2015: Detection of E. coli; and
• ISO 18416:2015: Detection of
Candida albicans.

In the U.S., product safety tests in Chapters 61


and 62 of the United States Pharmacopeia (USP) are
used to ensure that a cosmetic product's preparation
complies with specifications for microbiological
quality. USP 61 determines the number of microor-
ganisms present and is performed to determine the
"total aerobic microbial count" (TAMC) and "total
yeasts and molds counts" (TYMC).3
USP 62 evaluates a product for the presence or
absence of potential pathogens and is performed
to test the presence of specified microorganisms:
E. coli, P. aeruginosa, S. aureus, E. coli, bile-tolerant

Need to start from


the beginning?
Check out Page 20 in our January
digital magazine for part 1 of this series.

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CT1909_Testing_Yvon_fcx.indd 49 8/21/19 4:52 PM


Back to Basics III

Gram-negative bacteria, Clostridia


species, Salmonella species and/or
C. albicans.4 While sterility is not
required for cosmetic products,
microbial contamination can pose
a health hazard; such products are
viewed as adulterated in the eyes of
the FDA.
Under the U.S. Federal Food,
Drug and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act),
it is illegal to market an adulterated
cosmetic product. One of the ways
in which a cosmetic can become
adulterated, as described above, is
if "it contains a poisonous or delete-
rious substance that may render the
product injurious to users under
the conditions of use prescribed in
the labeling thereof, or under such
conditions of use as are customary
or usual." Such a "poisonous or
deleterious substance" may include
microbial contamination.
Compliance with the micro-
Stability studies take a biological quality specifications

significant amount of time. demonstrates that the cosmetic


product is in good condition after

Planning is of the essence, as manufacturing, including produc-


tion and filling.

their results could impact the Preservative


product’s launch date. Efficacy Test or
Challenge Test
As stated, a PET or CT is used to
verify that the preservation system
effectively ensures the product is
Key Considerations
safe over time, and that a microbial
• Microbiological quality is a key component of product safety contamination will not develop.
• Compliance with microbiological limits and quality preservation over time This is particularly important in
some situations; e.g., cosmetics
and use must be demonstrated
used around the eyes, or for chil-
• Special care must be considered for products used in and around the eye, dren under three years of age.
on or around mucous membranes, or intended for use on children under A CT comprises artificially
contaminating the finished product
the age of 3 years
with reference microbial strains,
• Stability studies are a part of the safety demonstration over a period of time followed by evaluating the decrease
• Stability studies take time, so early planning is of the essence in contamination to levels within
the microbial limits. The study
• Stability studies are performed with the product in bulk and in its
must be performed with a validated
commercial packaging protocol; in Europe, most often
• Stability studies determine shelf life and period after opening (PAO) the ISO 11930:2012 is used and in
the U.S., the protocol is described

50 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019

CT1909_Testing_Yvon_fcx.indd 50 8/21/19 4:52 PM


A SYMRISE SCREENING SERVICE

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CT16_ad_template.indd 1 8/13/19 2:44 PM


Back to Basics III

in the USP Chapter 51 Antimicrobial Effective- expiration date or shelf-life, and, ideally, once
ness Testing (or CT). Both describe the assay in after being opened, which sets the Period After
a similar fashion but the acceptance criteria vary Opening (PAO) limit.
(see Figure 1). Due to the wide variety of cosmetics, there is
Compliance with the acceptance criteria no standard test protocol and the study design
demonstrates that the cosmetic product has is determined for a given product after consider-
an efficient preservation system. If the results ing its normal foreseeable conditions of storage
are non-compliant, the formulation requires and use. In most cases, there is no history of the
adjustments and must be validated again before product being manufactured and stored in real
proceeding to an additional CT. conditions for months or years, and accelerated
stability studies are performed, e.g., specific
Product Stability temperature, hygrometry, light and duration
Once a formulation is finalized and validated, conditions, to predict long-term stability, includ-
it is important to assess its stability. The goal is ing shelf-life, safety and efficacy.
to ensure the new cosmetic product meets the Stability studies take a significant amount
intended microbiological, physical and chemical of time (5+ months). It is therefore good to per-
quality standards, along with functionality and form them as early as possible since the results
aesthetics, when stored under appropriate condi- could impact the product’s launch date. This is
tions as well as during transport and handling. A particularly true if the results are not satisfac-
change in the product properties can affect not tory, in which case the formulation will likely
only its quality but also consumer safety. Stabil- need to be adjusted. This also means going back
ity studies take a significant amount of time and to step 1 with a validation of the new formula-
planning is of the essence. The earlier it can be tion, new CT and new stability studies. When
done, the better. the results are poor, it is also beneficial to find
Stability studies are carried out on the product out why before proceeding further and commit-
in bulk and in its commercial container. These will ting to other studies, which can waste time and
determine the stability of the characteristics of the money. Finally, stability studies are performed
product—color, consistency, texture, pH, interac- with the product in its commercial packaging.
tion with the container, etc. They also determine If the packaging changes, the stability studies
if the product will remain safe for consumers for must be performed again, this time with the
a period of time unopened, which establishes the new packaging.
The European
Regulation requires the
results of these studies
and information about
the expiration date or
PAO to be included
on the packaging. The
FDA requires products
to be safe for human
Figure 1. Preservative efficacy test health and, as noted, any
change in the product's

Figure 2. Stability studies development

52 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019

CT1909_Testing_Yvon_fcx.indd 52 8/21/19 4:53 PM


stability or properties can pose a health hazard, References
making the product adulterated. In contrast with 1. ISO 29621:2017. (2017). Retrieved from https://www.iso.
Europe, though, there are no U.S. laws or regula- org/standard/68310.html

tions requiring cosmetics to have specific shelf lives 2. ISO 17516:2014. (2014). Retrieved from https://www.iso.
org/standard/59938.html
or expiration dates on their labels.
3. Microbiological Examination of Nonsterile Products:
However, manufacturers are responsible for Microbial Enumeration Tests. Retrieved from https://www.
ensuring their products are safe—the FDA considers usp.org/sites/default/files/usp/document/harmonization/
the determination of a product’s shelf life to be part gen-method/q05b_pf_ira_33_2_2007.pdf

of the manufacturer’s responsibility. This process 4. Microbiological Examination of Nonsterile Products: Tests
for Specified Microorganisms. Retrieved from https://www.
starts with a CT followed by stability studies of an usp.org/sites/default/files/usp/document/harmonization/
unopened product, then, ideally, of an opened prod- gen-method/q05a_pf_ira_34_6_2008.pdf
uct. If the CT results comply with the acceptance 5. Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act. Retrieved from
https://www.fda.gov/regulatoryinformation/lawsenforced-
criteria, the process can continue with the stability
byfda/federalfooddrugandcosmeticactfdcact/default.htm
studies.
To minimize time, stability studies of the opened
and unopened product can be performed in parallel
with the understanding that negative results on the
unopened product would automatically invalidate
the studies on the open product and these studies
Need to catch up?
would cease. Finally, it is recommended to confirm
Check out Page 20 in our May digital
the effectiveness of the preservative system with a magazine for part 2 of this series.
second challenge test after the stability studies are
completed (see Figure 2).

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CT1909_Testing_Yvon_fcx.indd 53 8/21/19 4:53 PM


Branded Content

HALLSTAR’S SUNSCREEN
TESTING PLATFORM
IS MORE SCIENCE THAN ART

U
Photo courtesy of Hallstar

nderlying the increasing rather than the total weight of paint piled on
debate among photo- the wall. Therefore, if a testing method cannot
protection chemists, guarantee a reproducible level of thickness, the
regulatory bodies and results can vary widely. Significantly, the most
end consumers around common testing devices prescribe the amount
the effectiveness and of sunscreen used, not its thickness.
safety of sunscreen ingredients is the assumption Further, common sunscreen testing
that in vitro testing for sun care is accurate and platforms use a substrate that has been pur-
undifferentiated among the world’s development posely roughened to mimic human skin – but
laboratories. In fact, this is not the case. human skin is a complex structure that is
Sunscreen works by “hiding our skin” from not easily reproduced. Instead of mirroring
the sun’s UV radiation. It is common sense that a human skin, the roughened testing substrates
sunscreen’s hiding power is dependent on cover- make accurately quantifying sunscreen film
age thickness. If you have ever attempted to paint thickness impossible.
a wall, you can appreciate that paint’s power to Many have attempted to create more reliable
hide is related to consistent coverage thickness alternatives for sunscreen testing. One labora-

54 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019

CT1909_Form_Hallstar_BC_fcx.indd 54 8/20/19 4:36 PM


Branded Content

tory recently proposed robot-like machinery that


allows testers to move away from simply rubbing
material samples on substrates with their fingers.
But even using robot arms, rubbing samples on
substrates can still not provide precise and known
thickness. Without reproducibility and reliability,
there can be no meaningful correlation between
in vivo results. This current method is, at best, an
artistic process rather than a scientific one.
Hallstar’s response to the need for more scientific
in vitro photoprotection testing was to develop
Solasure™, a brand-new, full-solution platform for
both pre- and post-irradiation performance testing
that is now available for purchase. The differences
between Solasure™ and common testing methods
are extensive in ways that have the most impact on
reproducibility and reliability:

• The innovative polished quartz substrate


of closely controlled thickness (1200 μm)
allows for precise, reproducible, and known
sunscreen thickness by avoiding the impact
of roughness on film thickness
• Patented film deposition mechanics enables
precise control of sunscreen deposition and
the associated film thickness, guaranteeing a
uniform and known thickness layer of testing
sample
• Adjustable application sample amount can
guarantee perfect absorbance in 290-400 nm
range, thus maximizing the sensitivity of the
UV spectrophotometer used for sun protec-
tion measurement
• A unique dilution system reduces operational
standard deviation without influencing test-
ing results

In addition, Solasure™ is cost-effective and very


easy-to-use. (Visit www.hallstarbeauty.com to see
a video of Solasure™ in action.) The new Solasure™ delivers a reproducible, quantifiable,
cost-effective and easy-to-use sunscreen testing method,
A simple laboratory test demonstrated providing both formulators and end consumers with the confi-
Solasure™’s reliability compared with the common dence they deserve—confidence that their products’ perceived
finger-rubbing method. Here, the top graph displays actual performance will correspond to the efficacy claimed.
the variations in UV absorbance when finger-
rubbing was used to deposit the prescribed amount Do you want to learn more about the Solasure™ Sunscreen
of sample sunscreen on a flat substrate. Variation Testing Platform? Contact Hallstar Beauty at workwonders@
in both absorption intensity and absorption shape hallstar.com.
indicate inconsistencies in both film thickness and
uniformity (coverage). The bottom graph displays CONTACT Hallstar
312-554-7470
what can be achieved using Solasure™: perfect HALLSTAR mparo@hallstar.com
consistency in both absolute film thickness, known www.hallstarbeauty.com
down to micrometers, and uniformity.

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CT1909_Form_Hallstar_BC_fcx.indd 55 8/20/19 4:36 PM


Formulating | C&T ®

KEY POINTS
• Sunscreen developers are faced with
fast-moving trends, environmental
considerations and regulatory hurdles.

• This column describes ingredients and


methods to create environmentally
friendly products while addressing key
skin concerns.

Formulating Forum

The New Age


of Sustainable
Sunscreens
Formulating for Modern Sun Care Trends

Nicola Lionetti
ISPE S.r.l., Milan

56 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
S unscreens have shown very fast develop-
ment in the last 40 years, driven by a
series of emerging needs. At the beginning
of this period, the attention was focused
only on UVB radiation, which was
considered the key factor responsible for
immediate and evident skin damage. After that, scientists realized
that both UVB and UVA are jointly responsible for biological dam-
age. The negative effects of UVA radiation tend to accumulate over

Reproduction in English or any other language of


all or part of this article is strictly prohibited.
© 2019 Allured Business Media.
Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019

CT1909_Formulating_Lionetti_fcx.indd 56 8/19/19 3:35 PM


Formulating skin protectants has always
represented a challenge for the formulator.
This is due to formula complexities such a UV
filter choices and their combinations, skin feel
and expected performance.

time and their mischief is revealed after many Parallel to formulation developments is also the
years. Moreover, UVA radiation is the main request for more efficient and reliable efficacy
concomitant cause of skin photosensitization tests, going more deeply into the research.
and phototoxicity.1
The need to combat these effects led to the
Wide Protection and
formulation of multi-efficient products that Consumer Habits
offered several benefits: UVB and UVA protec- Between 2006 and mid-2013, the attention
tion, water resistance, mildness for babies and of cosmetic companies was focused at first on
applicability to wet skin without affecting the guaranteeing the right balance between UVB
protection value. The number of consumers who and UVA protection, following the Recommen-
use sunscreen products before sun exposure dation of 2006/647/EC. Secondly, the new task
has, luckily, dramatically increased in recent was to protect the skin when taking into account
years, along with the request for more personal- the additional potential damage caused, accord-
ized products.2 ing to the literature, by infrared (IR)4-6 and
In addition, the formulator is faced with not blue light7, 8 radiation. Numerous actives were
only varying regulations covering the use and consequently developed (or re-invented) in order
commercialization of sunscreen products,3 but to reach adequately wide protection.
also, more recently, new hurdles stemming from The main functionality required for efficient
ethical, toxicological and environmental issues. protection against IR radiation is antioxidant/

Figure 1. Transmission of HEVL through market sunscreens with various SPF levels11

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CT1909_Formulating_Lionetti_fcx.indd 57 8/19/19 3:35 PM


The New Age of Sustainable Sunscreens

shield the skin against not only UV, but also blue
light has been studied. Here, damage caused by
blue light was tested in an in vitro model based
on β-carotene.12
Meanwhile, “perfect” protection in the
full UV range is sought. The ideal sunscreen
should protect skin as well as clothing does,
which provides uniform, full UV protection or
spectral homeostasis.13 Indeed, efforts to improve
UVA protection and reach the ultimate goal of
spectral homeostasis have been tremendously
successful.14 Most recent is the launch of the
UV filter (for Europe) tris-biphenyl triazine—a
water dispersion of nano-size particles with-
claims to cover in the 320-340 nm range, which
usually is not well covered by standard UVB and
UVA filters. (For more on this narrow range,
see Chandler on Page DM1, i.e., Page 1 of the
digital magazine).
anti-free radical capacity9 and, secondarily, the The ideal sunscreen providing spectral
capacity to easily dissipate the heat generated on homeostasis would attenuate UV radiation,
the skin surface by sun rays. In this case, one of visible light and IR without changing the qual-
the most efficient ingredients described is boron ity of the radiation spectrum received by the
nitride.10 The most recent efficacy evaluations skin—i.e., without selectively removing UVB or
for these new and complex formulations range visible radiation.
from in vivo tests—to evaluate qualitatively or In relation, many companies have launched
quantitatively the skin microcirculation, rash special products that take new consumer
and skin temperature—to new in vitro tests for demands into consideration. The most recent
measurements of oxidative stress markers. examples can work under all conditions:
On the other side, for good High Energy 1. On wet skin; certain polymers make it
Visible Light (HEVL) protection, efficacy pos- possible to formulate sunscreens capable of
sibilities are quite similar to those in the UV retaining the same dry-skin tested SPF when
region. The use of antioxidant/antiradical agents applied to wet skin. This is possible through
is always accepted and some companies claim the use of polymers such as bis-octyldodecyl
the use of a sort of “HEVL filters.” In practice, dimer dilinoleate/propanediol copolymer and
inorganic or organic UV filters such as methy- VA/butyl maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymer,
lene bis-benzotri­azolyl tetramet­hylbutylphenol which also prevent whitening upon application
(MBBT) are able to perform this functionality. to wet skin.
The use of titanium dioxide with the correct par- 2. With sand and rub resistance; w/o
ticle size and/or with the right coating agent also emulsions rich in film-forming polymers such
can guarantee a significant reduction in HEVL; as acrylates and silicone polymers not only
see Figure 1 for more on HEVL. This ability of enhance water resistance, but also help to
both titanium dioxide and MBBT to effectively detach sand from the skin. The use of lipid-
alcoholic systems is preferred since the absence
of emulsifiers and water allows the sand to
easily brush off.
Formulators are adopting more readily 3. With reduced staining effects; most
biodegradable options and utilizing biobased UV filters demonstrate this adverse side effect:
ingredients to lower environmental persistence clothes that come into contact with them
and to support natural claims. become “permanently” yellowish. Inorganic UV
filters could be a solution to this problem but
another strategy is to avoid using filters contain-
Source: INOLEX ing a benzophenone group (see Figure 2).

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Keeping Tolerability and
Safety Under Control
Of course, if the functionality of a sunscreen
becomes broader, its tolerability must be kept
under strict control. All UV filters have already been
evaluated by the Scientific Committee on Consumer
Safety (SCCS) or approved by the U.S. Food and
Drug Administration for their safe use; but their
combination and purity, and the use of additional
ingredients with them must be evaluated accurately.
Among the UV absorbers, benozophenone-3 and
octocrylene (OCR) are considered the most frequent
photoallergens. More recently introduced UV
absorbers have rarely elicited positive photo-patch
test reactions.15, 16 The latest data in dermatological
literature shows a statistically significant decrease in
photocontact allergy to OCR in the last three years,
and this ingredient is still used in several sunscreens.
A possible explanation for this decreased reactivity
could be due to an increase in purity of the raw OCR
material produced by the cosmetic industry.17
Excluding concerns over the penetration of
inorganic nano-sized UV filters,18, 19 the risk of trans-
dermal delivery of sunscreens is well-considered in
the synthesis of new UV filters. Indeed, developments
have been made in oil-soluble UV filters with higher
molecular weights (> 500 Da) in order to prevent
percutaneous penetration.20, 21 Also, in formulating
sunscreens for infant skin, one must consider that
molecules penetrate more easily since infant skin is
thinner and less developed than that of adults.

The Search for


New-generation Filters
Today, sustainability, renewability and low
environmental impact are playing an increasingly
relevant role in
pushing scientific
frontiers according
to both legislative
requirements and
ethical guide-
lines.22 Among
the compounds
of interest in the
cosmetic industry,
the use of UV fil-
ters is particularly Figure 2. Structure
relevant. The main
of the benzophenone
issues linked to UV
group
filters in sun prod-
ucts are, of course,

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CT1909_Formulating_Lionetti_fcx.indd 59 8/19/19 3:35 PM


The New Age of Sustainable Sunscreens

their synthetic nature and low biodegradability.


Since sunscreens are consumer goods that
can pollute the environment, e.g., seawater,
is important that, once degraded, they do not
become permanent pollutants;23 it is clear that,
by design, these compounds cannot completely
be eliminated from having some level of impact
on the environment.
Numerous studies have been carried out to
investigate the alleged toxicity of UV filters on
marine environments.24-26 When detected, the
concentrations of these sunscreen components
were quite variable.27, 28 Moreover, they were
found at barely detectable levels; concentrations
higher than one part per million (ppm) were
reported altough only at a few marine sites. A
small number of in vitro studies has shown that
sunscreens and certain individual components these materials could be rapidly dispersed and
of sunscreen formulas could affect corals and diluted. Therefore, the concentrations in contact
other marine organisms—under certain circum- with the reefs could be significantly lower.29
stances. The most oft-studied is the chemical The situation for the two inorganic UV
UV filter oxybenzone, which apparently has filters zinc oxide and titanium oxide appears
been considered responsible for environmental to be similar. Results reported by Corinaldesi
damage including bleaching coral fragments demonstrate zinc oxide could be extremely
and cells, affecting their reproductive success, harmful to the same organisms, thus suggest-
damaging coral DNA and causing the deforma- ing its use might have important consequences
tion of coral larvae. However, tests have largely on the marine environment. Similar concerns
been carried out in vitro only. were reported in the same study for titanium
Logically, some concerns have risen about dioxide. According to these researchers, the
the probability that under real life conditions, use of coated/modified titanium dioxide, even
if not completely exempt for potential
negative effects, could have a limited
Table 1. Marine Sites Where Specified Sunscreen impact on tropical stony corals.30
Compounds Have Been Banned In practice, multiple states and
local governments have decided to
officially ban oxybenzone (BP3),
State/local government Filters Into force octinoxate (EHMC), and OCR or
Hawaii BP3, EHMC Jan. 1, 2021 4-methyl-benzylidene camphor (MBC).
Key West (Florida) BP3, EHMC Jan. 1, 2021 In the case of Palau, in the West
Pacific, the ban also includes butyl-
The Caribbean island
BP3, EHMC Jan. 1, 2021 paraben, benzylparaben, triclosan,
of Bonaire
methylparaben and phenoxyethanol
BP3, EHMC, (see Table 1).
Palau Jan. 1, 2020
OCR, MBC
As an alternative, reducing the
levels of UV filters used would also

60 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019

CT1909_Formulating_Lionetti_fcx.indd 60 8/19/19 3:35 PM


be a start toward a solution. This could be achieved
through the use of boosters to enhance protection
without increasing the percentage of filters present in
the formula. It is better if these kinds of boosters are,
for example, powders made from polyhydroxybutyrate
(PHB), which is sustainable, biobased, biodegradable,
biocompatible, GMO-free and organic solvent-free. Its
particles act by light scattering, increasing the efficacy of
the UV filters dispersed in the formula.31

Formulating to the Market and


Marketing Brief
If formulators are not forced to follow specific
marketing briefs, i.e., for sensitive skin or an eco-
friendly claim, the best combination of filters is one that
imparts high UVB and UVA protection with a minimal

Today, sustainability,
renewability and low
environmental impact
play an increasingly
relevant role in pushing
scientific frontiers.

amount of filters (see Formula 1); for example, butyl


methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMBM; aka avobenzone)
stabilized with the right amount of OCR (from 1:3 to
1:4.5). Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine
(BEMT) also helps to stabilize BMBM and boosts
both UVB and UVA protection. The addition of a small
amount of inorganic UV filter also gives an added
synergic effect.
If the target is the U.S. market, one might substitute
BEMT with the combination of homosalate (HMS) plus
ethylhexyl salicylate (EHS; aka octisalate); of course,
UVA protection efficacy will be affected. If using eth-
ylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC; aka octinoxate),
remember that the combination of EHMC + BMBM
is not stable; therefore it is best to use both filters in
encapsulated form.
If the marketing brief requests a formula for sensitive
skin or babies (> 6-12 months), the UV filter selection
will likely focus on a blend made from a high number
of UV filters, each at a low percentage (see Formula 2).

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The New Age of Sustainable Sunscreens

Formula 1. Sunscreen Combining Synergistic


Organic and Inorganic Filters This is better than a blend of two or three at high
percentages not only for safety concerns, but also to
INCI % w/w achieve a synergic combination of effects. Selecting
PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate 2.0-4.0 more recently developed UV filters is preferred since
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG-10 Dimethicone these materials have higher molecular weight, better
(and) Disteardimonium Hectorite 2.0-4.0 photostability, broad-spectrum capacity and, thus far,
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 4.0-5.0 no reports as potential photosensitizers.
Octocrylene 7.0-10.0 Even if, as reported, the use of inorganic sun-
bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine 2.0-4.0 screens is under discussion, insofar as their safety
Titanium Dioxide (Nano), Coated 2.0-5.0 in relation to the environment and human exposure,
Antioxidant qs the combination that seems to satisfy the majority
Dibutyl Adipate and/or Diisopropyl Sebacate of marketing and “ethical” consumer requests is one
and/or Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/ made using the two inorganic UV filters (see For-
Dicaprate 5.0-20.0 mula 3).
Water (aqua) to 100.0
Chelating Agent q.s. Conclusion
Magnesium Sulfate 0.7 Among all the cosmetic products, the formulation
Sensorial Modifier Fillers 1.0-3.0 of skin protectants has always represented one of the
Preservative qs greatest challenges for the formulator. This is due to
Alcohol Denat. 5.0-10.0 formula complexities such as appropriate UV filter
Cyclopentasiloxane or Ethyl Trisiloxane or choices, their combinations, skin feel and perfor-
Caprylyl Methicone 10.0-20.0 mance expectations of consumers. Indeed, besides
basic protection against UVA and UVB rays, the
cosmetic market demands continuous innovation.
Today, for example, consumers and marketers
Formula 2. Sunscreen for Sensitive expect formulations that also protect fully against
Skin and Babies IR and blue light, sparking great concern in the field
of sustainability, renewability and the pursuit of low
environmental impact—ultimately driving the market
INCI % w/w toward formulations claiming to be eco-friendly, reef
Ethylhexyl Salicylate 1.0-4.0 safe, ocean-friendly and biodegradable. Moreover,
Homosalate 7.0-10.0 product performance expectations now include:
Octocrylene 3.0-5.0 water-, sand- and rub-resistance; non-whitening; no
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone 3.0-5.0 stains on clothes; non-stinging to the eyes; special
bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine 3.0-5.0 technologies such as “wet skin” application and
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate 3.0-5.0 efficacy; and so on.
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 2.0-3.0 Nevertheless, particular attention is required
Titanium Dioxide (Nano), Coated 2.0-5.0 on the tolerability front; reducing or eliminating
Dibutyl Adipate and/or Diisopropyl Sebacate and/or potentially photoallergic filters; selecting the proper
Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate 5.0-20.0 combination for the delicate skin of babies and
Caprylyl Methicone and/or Ethyl Trisiloxane 5.0-15.0 sensitive consumers; and formulating to reduce the
Antioxidant qs penetration of filters into the skin.
PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate 1.0-3.0 Together, these needs make the challenge of
Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/ formulating sunscreens even more difficult … or even
Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate 2.0-5.0 quite impossible.
Preservative qs
Isododecane (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite
References
(and) Propylene Carbonate 1.0-2.0
1. Dupont, E., Gomez, J., and Bilodeau, D. (2013). Beyond UV radia-
Water (aqua) to 100.0
tion: A skin under challenge. Int J Cosmet Sci, 35, 224-232.
Chelating Agent qs
2. Robles, M. C. (2017, June 18). Evolving Trends and Hottest Ingre-
Sensorial Modifier Fillers 1.0-3.00 dients in Sun Protection. Retrieved from https://blog.euromonitor.
Alcohol Denat. 3.0-7.0 com/evolving-trends-hottest-ingredients-sun-protection/
3. Pirotta, G. (2015). An overview of sunscreen regulations in the
world. H&PC Today, 10(4).

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CT1909_Formulating_Lionetti_fcx.indd 62 8/19/19 3:35 PM


Formula 3. Inorganic, Marine-friendly
Sunscreen Formulation

INCI % w/w
PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate 2.0-6.0
Dibutyl Adipate and/or Diisopropyl Sebacate
and/or Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/
Dicaprate 5.0-10.0
Isononyl Isononanoate and/or
Diethylhexyl Carbonate 15.0-20.0
Preservative qs
Antioxidant qs
Titanium Dioxide (Nano)*, Coated 15.0-25.0
Zinc Oxide (Nano)*, Coated 10.0-20.0
Magnesium Sulfate 0.5
Water (aqua) to 100.0
Chelating Agent qs
Alcohol Denat. 3.0-7.0

* The formula could be also formulated with “non-nano”


ingredients.

4. Schroeder, P., et al. (2010). Photoprotection beyond ultraviolet radiation


- Effective sun protection has to include protection against infrared A
radiation-induced skin damage. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 23 15-17.
5. Dupont, E., Gomez, J., and Bilodeau, D. (2013). Beyond UV radiation: A
skin under challenge. Int J Cosm Sci 35 224-232.
6. Cho, S., et al. (2008). Infrared plus visible light and heat from natural
sunlight participate in the expression of MMPs and type I procollagen as
well as infiltration of inflammatory cell in human skin in vivo. J Dermatol
Sci 50 123-133.
7. Bassel, H. M., Hexsel, C.L., Hamzavi, I. H., and Lim, H. W. Effects of
visible light on the skin. Photochem Photobiol 84 450-462.
8. Regazzetti, C., et al. (2018). Melanocytes sense blue light and regulate
pigmentation through Opsin-3. J Invest Dermatol 138 171-178.
9. Grether, S., et al. Effective Photoprotection of Human Skin Against Infra-
red A Radiation by Topically Applied Antioxidants: Results from a Vehicle
Controlled, Randomized Study. Photochemistry and Photobiology 91(1).
10. Zheng, J. C., et al. (2016). Thermal conductivity of hexagonal boron
nitride laminates. 2D Materials 3(1).

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CT1909_Formulating_Lionetti_fcx.indd 63 8/19/19 3:35 PM


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The New Age of Sustainable Sunscreens

11. Lefort, M., et al. (2019). Synergy of Mica and Inorganic UV


Filters Maximizes Blue Light Protection as First Defense
Line. IFSCC Magazine 22(1).
12. Campiche, R., et al. (2017). Protection strategies to inhibit
blue light irradiation effects in-vitro and in skin ex-vivo.
J Inves Derm 137.
13. Diffey, B. L. (1991). The need for sunscreens with broad
spectrum protection. In Biological Responses to Ultraviolet
A Radiation. A Symposium on UV-A Radiation (321-328).
San Antonio, TX U.S.: Valdenmar Publication Co.
14. Villanueva, A., et al. Analysis of the situation and trends in
sunscreen products. NCP 349.
15. Pigatto, P. D., et al. (2008). Photopatch tests: An Italian
multicentre study from 2004 to 2006. Contact Derm 59
103-108.
16. Subiabre, D., et al. (2019). European photopatch test
baseline series: A 3-year experience. Contact Derm 80 5-8.
17. Romita, P., Foti, C., Hansel, K., and Stingeni, L. (2018).
Photo-contact allergy to octocrylene: A decreasing trend?
Contact Derm 78 224-225.
18. Darvin, M. E., et al. (2012). Safety assessment by
multiphoton fluorescence/second harmonic generation/
hyper-Rayleigh scattering tomography of ZnO nanoparticles
used in cosmetic products. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 25
219-226.
19. Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). Opinion
on titanium dioxide (nano form); SCCS, Brussels, Belgium.
20. Bos, J. D., and Meinardi, M. M. (2000). The 500 Dalton rule
for the skin penetration of chemical compounds and drugs. 21. Osterwalder, U., and Herzog, B. (2009). Chemistry and
Exp Dermatol 9(3) 165-169. properties of organic and inorganic UV filters. In Clinical
Guide to Sunscreens and Photoprotection (11-38). New
York: Informa Healthcare.
22. Beerling, J., and Sahota, A. (2014). Sustainability: How the
Cosmetics Industry Is Greening Up. London: John Wiley
& Sons.
23. T sui, M. M. P., et al. (2014). Occurrence, distribution and
ecological risk assessment of multiple classes of UV filters in
surface waters from different countries. Water Research 67
55-65.
24. Danovaro, R., et al. (2008). Sunscreens cause coral bleach-
ing by promoting viral infections. Environ Health Perspect
116(4) 441−447.
25. Daughton, C. G., and Ternes, T. A. (1999). Pharmaceuticals
and personal care products in the environment: Agents of
subtle change? Environ Health Perspect 17 907-944.
26. Sánchez-Quiles, D., and Tovar-Sánchez, A. (2015). Are sun-
screens a new environmental risk associated with coastal
tourism. Environ Int 83 158-70.
27. Downs, C. A., et al. (2015). Toxicopathological effects of the
sunscreen UV filter, oxybenzone (benzophenone-3), on coral
planulae and cultured primary cells and its environmental
contamination in Hawaii and the US Virgin Islands. Arch
Environ Contam Toxicol 70(2) 265- 288.
28. Bargar, T. A., et al. (2015). Synthetic ultraviolet light filtering
chemical contamination of coastal waters of Virgin Islands
national park, St John, US Virgin Islands. Marine Pollution
Bulletin 101(1) 193-199.
29. Wood, E. (2018). Impact of sunscreens on coral reefs.
International Coral Reef Initiative (ICRI) briefing.
30. Corinaldesi, C. (2018). Impact of inorganic UV filters
contained in sunscreen products on tropical stony corals
(Acropora spp.). Science of the Total Environment, 637-638:
1279-1285.
31. Cosmetics Save the Ocean. Retrieved from https://www.
cosmetics-savetheocean.com/cosafacciamo.php

66 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019

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Formulating | C&T ®

KEY POINTS
• The sunscreen market is trending toward
higher SPF levels, but these formulas tend
to be more difficult to preserve.

• This study shows how high-SPF sunscreens


can be adequately preserved using
nontraditional approaches combining
antimicrobials and multifunctional additives Susanne Schmidt
with boosting aids. Schülke & Mayr GmbH, Norderstedt, Germany
Linda Sedlewicz and Ingrid Chirico
schülke inc., Fairfield, NJ USA

Preserve
and Protect
T
Shielding the Sunscreen Umbrella

he challenges formulators constraints continue to move the industry toward


face to produce effective, nontraditional preservation methods. Importantly,
high-SPF sunscreens increase these approaches should be considered during
every day. Take Key West’s1 the initial stages of the product development;
and Hawaii’s2 legislative especially when formulating high-SPF, mineral or
moves to ban oxybenzone organic sunscreens.
and octinoxate, two commonly used sunscreen Figure 1 shows how, in sunscreens, the worlwide
actives, for example. Add to these regulations the use of some of the most common preservatives has
general need for more environmentally and skin- evolved in the past five years, according to Mintel.3
friendly sun protectants, and the entire industry is Short chain parabens are losing popularity, giving
quickly affected. way to aromatic alcohols and organic acids. Note
Finding suitable preservative systems to that this table only represents approved active
protect these formulations poses hurdles as well. preservatives as listed in Annex V of Regulation (EC)
Social media, the evolving market and regulatory No. 1223/2009 on cosmetic products.4 It does not

Reproduction in English or any other language of


| www.CosmeticsandToiletries.comCosmetics
68 facebook.com/CandTmagazine & Toiletries @cosmeticsandtoiletries
all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019
© 2019 Allured Business Media.

CT1909_Formulating_Schmidt_irv.indd 68 8/19/19 3:51 PM


Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.

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Preserve and Protect

To adequately preserve sunscreens, not only


must the ratio of the oil to water phase be
taken into account, but also the emulsion
stabilization system.

*data per Mintel

Figure 1. Top 10 Preservative Actives Used Globally 2014-2018*

include nontraditional preservation methods,


which as stated, are rising in use throughout the
The global market for personal care UV filters personal care industry.
is expected to reach approx. US $672 million
by 2021 and is forecasted to expand at a Preserving Sunscreens
CAGR of 3.1% from 2016 to 2021. Experience has shown that sunscreen prod-
ucts are frequently more difficult to preserve
than other skin care products. Some of the main
Source: ResearchandMarkets considerations for identifying the appropriate
preservation system for sunscreen formulas are:

70 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019

CT1909_Formulating_Schmidt_irv.indd 70 8/19/19 3:51 PM


Hyaluronic Acid
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based on state of the art research.
www.contipro.com

CT16_ad_template.indd 1 8/12/19 4:36 PM


Preserve and Protect

• Incompatibilities. Some organic UV filters, these preservatives to assure effective, broad-


such as avobenzone, are not compatible with spectrum activity.
formaldehyde-releasers5 due to their highly reac- • Polarity. The ongoing trend of incorpo-
tive aldehydic carbonyl functionality. rating more natural or naturally based oils
• pH limitations. Sunscreens containing into formulas tends to increase the polarity
organic acids, particularly those based on min- of the oil phase, which as a result leads to a
eral filters such as zinc oxide, require a neutral higher required concentration of preservatives
pH to stabilize the natural material. Often, to to compensate for their migration to the oil
assure a stable emulsion, certain thickeners phase. This is particularly true in high-SPF
are incorporated in the sunscreen formula organic sunscreens, where polar emollients
and these must be neutralized as well. In the are necessary to solubilize the crystalline UV
case of organic acids, only the free, undissoci- filters, e.g., avobenzone or benzophenone-3.
ated portion of the acid acts as a preservative, The higher the SPF, the larger the quantity of
limiting the functionality of these ingredients to polar oils required.
products with a pH of 6.0 or below. • Marketing. Market trends and social
• Ratio of oil to water phase. Higher SPF media also influence product develop-
levels mean higher levels of the oil phase. Most ment, restricting the use of controversial
modern, nontraditional preservative systems ingredients—such as parabens, isothiazo-
are less soluble in water, where the microbial linones or halogenated compounds—and
activity happens, and tend to migrate to the oil shifting formulators toward the use of non-
phase. As such, a higher ratio of oil to water traditional preservative alternatives and/or
phase may require a higher concentration of “softer preservation.”

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CT16_ad_template.indd 1 8/12/19 4:42 PM
Chelating agents are typically used in
sunscreens to avoid discoloration, as well as
to help boost the preservative system.

To gain a deeper understanding of these filter combinations, but in two different formula
dynamics, several high-SPF formulations based matrices: “Sun Lotion SPF 30” (see Formula 2)
on organic, mineral and/or both types of sun- and “Sun Gel Cream SPF 30” (see Formula 3),
screens were challenged-tested for preservative were tested.
efficacy. A variety of approved preservatives and Challenge test: The challenge test utilized
multifunctional ingredients were incorporated for Formulas 1-3 was based on a germ count
to find the optimal combination for broad- reduction with a semi-quantitative evaluation
spectrum preservation in high-SPF systems. (see Germ Count Reduction Test sidebar).
These results can be roughly compared with
Materials and Methods commonly used compendial test methods found
Mixed sunscreen formulas: In the present in the industry, such as ISO 11930, Ph.Eur,
work, a challenge test was conducted on an o/w USP, etc.6
sunscreen emulsion, “Sun Lotion Dry Feeling,” Mineral sunscreen formula and challenge
with three estimated SPF levels: 15, 30 and 50. test: A fourth w/o formulation, “High-SPF
These incorporated globally approved organic Inorganic Sunscreen,” based entirely on mineral
filters at various levels in the same formula sunscreens (see Formula 4) also was evaluated
matrix (see Formula 1). but in this case via an internala multi-challenge
Similarly, two sunscreen formulations based
on the same ratio of organic and mineral UV a
schülke Test Method SM-021, KOKO Test

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Formula 1. Sun Lotion Dry Feeling SPF 15, 30 and 50*

SPF 15 SPF 30 SPF 50


INCI Function %w/w %w/w %w/w
A. Water (aqua) Solvent qs 100.00 qs 100.00 qs 100.00
Tetrasodium EDTA Chelating Agent qs qs qs
Glycerin Humectant 2.30 2.30 2.30
B. Octocrylene UVB Filter 5.00 8.00 8.00
Avobenzone UVA Filter 1.00 2.50 3.00
Homosalate UVB Filter 5.00 10.00 10.00
Octisalate UVB Filter 5.00 5.00 5.00
Benzophenone-3 UVA/UVB Filter na na 4.00
Dibutyl Adipate Emollient 5.00 5.00 5.00
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate Emulsifier 0.75 0.75 0.75
Ethylhexyl Palmitate Emollient 4.00 4.00 4.00
Cetearyl Alcohol Emulsifier 2.40 2.40 2.40
Sodium Polyacrylate Thickener 0.60 0.60 0.60
C. Silica Powder 1.00 1.00 1.00
Polyurethane-34 Polymer 7.50 7.50 7.50
Preservative/Multifunctional Antimicrobial qs qs qs

*estimated values; based on globally approved organic UV filters

Formula 2. Sun Lotion SPF 30*


test method (see Multi-challenge
Test sidebar on Page DM23,
i.e., Page 23 of your digital INCI Function %w/w
magazine). All samples were A. Water (aqua) Solvent qs 100.00
tested against their unpreserved Tetrasodium EDTA Chelating Agent qs
counterpart as a control. Glycerin Humectant 3.00
Preservatives: As noted in Xanthan Gum Stabilizer 0.15
the introduction, the choice of Potassium Cetyl Phosphate Emulsifier 2.50
suitable preservative systems in A1. Titanium Dioxide (and) Silica UVA/UVB Filter 3.00
sunscreen formulas is limited. B. Octocrylene UVB Filter 10.00
For the scope of this project, pH- Avobenzone UVA Filter 4.00
independent preservatives and Octisalate UVB Filter 5.00
those that fulfill current market Methoxyphenyl Triazine UVA/UVB Filter 1.00
demands were therefore selected. Ethylhexyl Triazine UVB Filter 1.00
Table 1 on Page DM24 lists the C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Emollient 4.00
preservative blends and multi- Glyceryl Stearate Emulsifier 0.75
functional materials tested. Cetyl Alcohol Emulsifier 0.75
Preservative 1 was chosen as Dimethicone Emollient 0.30
the industry-standard preserva- Triacontanyl PVP Polymer 1.00
tive, commonly used for leave-on C. C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Emollient 1.00
applications, which served Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
as a negative control. Multi- Crosspolymer Thickener 0.15
functional 1 was chosen as a D. Sodium Hydroxyde pH Adjuster 0.30
broad-spectrum, milder preserva- Preservative/ Multifunctional Antimicrobial qs
tive alternative based on a blend
of natural and nature-identical *estimated value; UV filters approved in EU, AUS, ASEAN, Mercosur
ingredients. Multifunctional 2

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Preserve and Protect

Formula 3. Sun Gel Cream SPF 30* was chosen as another broad-spectrum
preservative alternative based on a long
chain glycol enhanced with ethylhexylglyc-
INCI Function %w/w erin. Finally, a commonly used chelating
A. Water (aqua) Solvent qs 100.00 agent was chosen to help enhance the
Tetrasodium EDTA Chelating Agent qs microbial protection.
Glycerin Humectant 5.00
Galactoarabinan Stabilizer 0.25 Results and Conclusions
A1. Titanium Dioxide (and) Silica UVA/UVB Filter 3.00 Figures 2-11 (see Pages DM25-29)
B. Octocrylene UVB Filter 10.00 show the challenge test results based on
Avobenzone UVA Filter 4.00 the germ count reduction method. Table 2
Octisalate UVB Filter 5.00 on Page DM30 provides the results from
Methoxyphenyl Triazine UVA/UVB Filter 1.00 the multi-challenge testa. While it may
Ethylhexyl Triazine UVB Filter 1.00 seem that formulations having a higher
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Emollient 3.00 SPF would require higher amounts of
C. C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Emollient 2.00 preservatives—since, due to their low
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate water solubility, the preservatives may not
Crosspolymer (1) Thickener 0.30 be available in the microbial-susceptible
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate water phase—this was not the case. In fact,
Crosspolymer (2) Thickener 0.10 the presence of less water and higher oil
D. Sodium Hydroxyde pH Adjuster 0.95 content in formulas had the added effect of
Preservative/ Multifunctional Antimicrobial qs reducing microbiological susceptibility.
With Formulas 1-3, a comprehensive
*estimated value; based on UV filters approved in EU, AUS, ASEAN, Mercosur challenge testing was made using an
in-house germ count reduction test that, as

Germ Count Reduction Test


This test is performed with a mixed germ suspension containing the test organism described in the box below (titre 107-108);
25-g samples are onoculated with a 0.1 mL inoculation suspension (initial germ count 105-106).

Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538


Gram-positive
Kocuria rhizophila ATCC 9341
Pluralibacter gergoviae ATCC 33028
Enterobacteria Escherichia coli ATCC 11229
Bacteria
Klebsiella pneumoniae ATCC 4352
Gram-negative
Pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC 9027
Pseudomonas Pseudomonas fluorescens ATCC 17397
Pseudomonas putida ATCC 12633
Yeasts Candida albicans ATCC 10231
Aspergillus brasiliensis ATCC 16404
Molds
Penicillium pinophilum ATCC 36839

Each of the samples is inoculated in the beginning and streaked on agar plates once a week after 7, 14, 21 and 28 days
on a tryptone-soya-agar (TSA), for bacteria, and sabouraud-dextrose-sugar (SA), for yeasts and molds. After 3 days of
inoculation at 25°C, the microbial growth of the streak cultures is evaluated. The evaluation is made on the basis of semi-
quantitative assessment of the microbial growth of the streaks.
– = free of growth ++ = moderate growth
The microbial growth is classified in bacteria (B), yeasts (Y)
+ = slight growth +++ = heavy growth
and molds (M).

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noted, was comparable with common meth-
ods such as ISO 11930, Ph.Eur and USP. In
Formula 4. High-SPF* W/O Inorganic Sunscreen
this test, a germ mix suspension is applied
once to a sample and a semi-quantitative
evaluation is performed after 7, 14, 21 and INCI Function %w/w
28 days (see Germ Count Reduction Test A. Octyldodecanol (and) Octyldodecyl
sidebar). The results obtained by this test Xyloside (and) PEG-30
allow for estimations of how a preservative Dipolyhydroxystearate Emulsifier 3.00
system could perform in a market-standard Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Emollient 25.00
challenge test. Zinc Oxide (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane UVA/UVB Filter 21.00
Generally, the multifunctional 1 preser- Titanium Dioxide (and) Alumina (and)
vative-alternative blend performed well in Stearic Acid UVA/UVB Filter 3.00
the tested sunscreen formulations across the B. Water (aqua) Solvent ad 100
board. The efficacy of this blend was even Glycerin Humectant 3.00
enhanced when combined with a chelating Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 Thickener 1.50
agent, as shown in Figures 3, 5 and 7 on Tetrasodium EDTA Chelating Agent qs
Pages DM25-27. In this test series, preserva- Citric Acid pH Adjuster qs
tive 1 alone was often not sufficient as a C. Preservative/ Multifunctional Antimicrobial qs
preservative at the maximum allowed use
concentration of 1.1%.
In practice, however, preservative 1 has *estimated; with globally approved inorganic UV filters
been effective alone in some sunscreens.
Furthermore, as is well-known, additional
ingredients such as pentylene glycol, to
improve water resistance, or ethanol, to
provide a fresh skin feel, etc., can be used to
support the efficacy of preservative 1.
The multifunctional 2 test ingredient com-
bined with preservative 1 was not sufficient in
most formulations but performed well in the
Sun Gel Cream SPF 30 based on the polymeric
emulsifier system (see Figure 11 on Page
DM29). This clearly shows that not only the
must ratio of the oil to water phase be taken
into account, but also the emulsion stabiliza-
tion system, which seems to play an important
role. The multifunctional test ingredients
partly consist of amphiphilic molecules that
can interact at the interface with other amphi-
philic substances, such as used in traditional
emulsifier systems. These interactions can lead
to reduced antimicrobial efficacy.
Depending on the emulsifier system and
its use concentration, a higher quantity of
the antimicrobial stabilization blend might
be needed.
Continued on Page DM23

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Preserve and Protect
Continued from Page 77

KoKo–Test SM 021
Multi-challenge Test 25 g of each material to be tested
In this testa, a mixture of bacteria, yeasts
and molds are inoculated 6 times (once without with x%
weekly) into the test material, with the preservative preservative
goal of keeping the test material germ-free
for the duration of the test. The inoculum
contains pathogenic microorganisms as
2 days exposure time streak (see below) as sterility control
germs, which are well-known to cause
product spoilage. All species must be
Germ Spectrum
cultivated separately and mixed directly
before the addition, to ensure a constant Gram-positive Bacteria
composition and germ count of the Kocuria rhizophila Staphylococcus aureus
inoculum. It germ count is approximately Gram-negative Bacteria
107-8 CFU/mL, which equates to a germ
Enterobacter gergoviae Escherichia coli
count of approximately 105 CFU/mL of each
organism in the sample. Klebsiella pneumoniae Pseudomonas aeruginosa
Pseudomonas fluorescens Pseudomonas putida
A sample can be called well-preserved
Molds
according to criteria A if a period of 6
weeks passes under the above described Aspergillus brasiliensis
laboratory conditions and without microbial Penicillium pinophilum
growth on the test batches. No microbial Yeasts
growth should be observed at any point
Candida albicans
in the test, up to and including after the
sixth inoculation. The many years this Periodic Microbiological Preservation Test
test has been used have shown it to be Weekly inoculation with 0.1 mL mixed suspension
predictive of the microbiological stability 6 weeks = 6 inoculation cycles (titre 107-108 CFU/mL)
of 30 months; the recommended time for
cosmetic products.

Criteria B is fulfilled if the sample shows slight


storage at
microbial growth (+) during any of the six
+25°C
inoculation cycles. If the formulation meets
criteria B, microbiological control factors
not related to the formulation should be
considered; for example, a protective Streak weekly before each inoculation on CS-agar and SA-agar
package such as a pump, which provides
a higher level of protection than a jar,
Incubation of Assessments
and/or following strong demands of Good
the nutrient – = free of growth
Manufacturing Practices (GMP).
media 3 days + = slight growth
at +25°C ++ = moderate growth
+++ = heavy growth

Legend B = Bacteria – = free of growth


M = Molds + = slight growth
Sp = Spore-forming bacteria ++ = moderate growth
Y = Yeasts +++ = heavy growth
Legend assessment: A = free of growth during the 6 inoculation cycles
B = slight (+) growth during the 6 inoculation cycles

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The polymeric emulsifier acrylates/C10-30 and bacteria growth only in cycles 2 and 3—can
alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acts in a different be explained.
way. It builds a high yield polymeric gel environ- Chelating agents are typically used in
ment around the droplets and so protects the sunscreen formulations to avoid discoloration,
droplets at low use concentrations—here, 0.3%. as well as to help boost the preservation system.
Most likely, this is the reason for less interaction As expected, the present tests showed that
with the multifunctional 2 test ingredient and a chelating agent, in this case tetrasodium
better antimicrobial efficacy when combined EDTA, boosted preservation effects when used
with preservative 1 in the Sun Gel Cream SPF in higher concentrations (0.2% active mat-
30 formulation. ter). It would be expected that other chelating
Finally, the multi-challenge test to assess
the inorganic sunscreen (see Formula 4) based Continued on Page DM30
on ZnO and TiO2 showed that
both the multifunctional 1 and
preservative 1 test ingredients, in
Table 1. Preservative Blends and Multifunctional
Material Tested
combination with the chelating
agent, adequately preserved this
type of formulation (see Table 2 on Blend INCI
Page DM30).
Phenylpropanol (and) Propanediol
Overall, sample B shows only
Multifunctional 1 (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and)
slight microbial growth. Both Tocopherol
mold and bacteria are reduced to
Phenoxyethanol (and)
the limit of detection after seven Preservative 1
Ethylhexylglycerin
days. Thus, the minor variation
in growth and no growth of
Caprylyl Glycol (and)
Multifunctional 2
Ethylhexylglycerin
microorganisms—for example, no
growth of mold in cycles 2 and 3, Chelating Agent Tetrasodium EDTA

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Preserve and Protect

Figure 2. Germ count test results for Sun Lotion Dry Feeling SPF 15 (estimated) without
chelating agent

Figure 3. Germ count test results for Sun Lotion Dry Feeling SPF 15 (estimated) with chelating agent

DM25 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019

CT1909_Formulating_Schmidt_irv.indd 80 8/19/19 4:55 PM


Figure 4. Germ count test results for Sun Lotion Dry Feeling SPF 30 (estimated) without
chelating agent

Figure 5. Germ count test results for Sun Lotion Dry Feeling SPF 30 (estimated) with
chelating agent

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Preserve and Protect

Figure 6. Germ count test results for Sun Lotion Dry Feeling SPF 50 (estimated) without chelating agent

Figure 7. Germ count test results for Sun Lotion Dry Feeling SPF 50 (estimated) with
chelating agent

DM27 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019

CT1909_Formulating_Schmidt_irv.indd 82 8/19/19 4:55 PM


Figure 8. Germ count test results for Sun Lotion SPF 30 (estimated) without chelating agent

Figure 9. Germ count test results for Sun Lotion SPF 30 (estimated) with chelating agent

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Preserve and Protect

Figure 10. Germ count test results for Sun Gel Cream SPF 30 (estimated) without chelating agent

Figure 11. Germ count test results for Sun Gel Cream SPF 30 (estimated) with chelating agent

DM29 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019

CT1909_Formulating_Schmidt_irv.indd 84 8/19/19 4:55 PM


Table 2. Multi-challenge Test for High-SPF* Inorganic Sunscreen

Sterility Inoculation Cycles


Assessment
Control 1 2 3 4 5 6
++ ++ ++ ++ ++ +++
0 Unpreserved - Failed
B, Y, M B, Y, M B, Y, M B, Y, M B, Y, M B, Y, M
A +0.70% Multifunctional 1 - + Y, M ++ M ++ M ++ M ++ M ++ M Failed
B +1.00% Multifunctional 1 - +M +B +B +M +M +M B
C +1.50% Multifunctional 1 - - - - - - - A
+0.70% Multifunctional 1
D - - - - - - - A
+0.20% Chelating Agent
+ ++ ++ ++ ++ ++
E +1.00% Preservative 1 - Failed
Y, M Y, M Y, M Y, M Y, M Y, M
+1.00% Preservative
F - - - - - - +M B
+0.20% Chelating Agent

*estimated

Continued from Page DM24


References
alternatives could provide the same efficacy in 1. Grabenhofer, R. (2019, Feb 6). Key West joins Hawaii in
these formulations. the ban of octinoxate and oxybenzone. Retrieved from
www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/regulatory/uvfilters/
Key-West-Joins-Hawaii-in-the-Ban-of-Octinoxate-and-
Conclusions Oxybenzone-505418321.html
The sunscreen market is trending toward 2. Schleehauf, B. (2018, May 4). Hawaii to ban certain
sunscreen chemicals. Retrieved from https://www.
increasing SPF levels; both for organic and
cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/regulatory/region/northamerica/
inorganic products. However, sunscreens with Hawaii-to-Ban-Certain-Sunscreen-Chemicals-481757731.
higher SPFs tend to be more difficult to preserve html
than lower-SPF or non-SPF products. In addi- 3. Mintel Global New Product Database (GNPD). internal data.
www.mintel.com
tion, the move to avoid traditional preservatives
4. European Commission (2019, accessed Aug 8). Legisla-
has made formulating adequately preserved
tion. Retrieved from http://ec.europa.eu/growth/sectors/
sun protection products more complex. The cosmetics/legislation/
present study shows how high-SPF sunscreens 5. Chinese patent (CN) 104010619A (2014). Antimicrobial
can be adequately preserved using modern, preservative compositions for personal care products.
Retrieved from https://patents.google.com/patent/
nontraditional preservation methods in smart CN104010619A/en. Accessed Aug 8, 2019.
combinations of antimicrobials, multifunc- 6. Wolfgang, S. (2012). A comparison to other methods to
tional additives and boosting aids such as evaluate the efficacy of antimicrobial preservation. SÖFW J,
chelating agents. 7, ISO 11930.

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Formulating | C&T ®
The following formulas are offered for your
consideration as a basis from which to build
and create your own. The information is listed
as originally provided by suppliers. Readers
should note that in some cases, companies or
ingredients may have changed.

Want More Formulas?


Click to Page DM31 for the expanded formulary,
complete with interactive links to the free
Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference.

Color Cosmetics Formulary


SEBUM CONTROL FOUNDATION Mica (and) TiO2 (proposed) (and) Iron Oxides (Gen Tan Opal,
Engelhard Corp.) 1.00
(Ashland LLC) Mica (and) Silica (Velvet Veil, Presperse, Inc.) 5.00
Silica 5.00
This foundation spreads easily, giving uniform coverage. Methylparaben 0.20
It inhibits sebum break-through that can disrupt the Propylparaben 0.10
finish and impair wear. Diazolidinyl Urea 0.25
A. Water (aqua) 43.45% w/w Iron Oxide Yellow (SunCroma C33-8073, Sun Chemical Corp.) 0.80
B. Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (Veegum K, Vanderbilt Iron Oxide Black (SunCroma C33-5198, Sun Chemical Corp.) 0.05
Minerals LLC) 1.00 Iron Oxide Red (Cosmetic Red C7054, Sun Chemical Corp.) 0.10
Xanthan Gum 0.20 B. Sorbitan Sesquioleate 0.70
C. Butylene Glycol 4.00 Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprate/Dicaprylate (Liponate NPGC-2,
D. Disodium EDTA 0.10 Vantage Specialty Ingredients) 1.80
E. Silica 1.00 Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract (Certified Organic
Titanium Dioxide (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate Licorice Root Extract, Bio-Botanica Inc.) 0.50
(BTD-401, Kobo Products Inc.) 6.78 Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract (Certified
Iron Oxides (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (BYO-12, Organic Chamomille Extract, Bio-Botanica Inc.) 0.50
Kobo Products Inc.) 0.87 Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract (Certified Organic
Iron Oxide Red (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate Calendula Extract, Bio-Botanica Inc.) 0.50
(BRO-12, Kobo Products Inc.) 0.33 100.00
Iron Oxide Black (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate Procedure: Mix A until uniform. Pass through a micropulverizer twice or until all
(BBO-I2, Kobo Products Inc.) 0.20 particles are dispersed. Premix B and spray into A. Pass through a large screen
Mica (Sericite, Kobo Products Inc.) 1.82 micropulverizer twice or until fully dispersed.
F. Isodecyl Neopentanoate (Ceraphyl SLK, Ashland LLC) 8.00
Glyceryl Stearate (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Palmitic Acid
(and) Stearic Acid (and) Lecithin (and) Lauryl Alcohol (and)
Myristyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Alcohol (Prolipid 141,
SOFT MATTE SETTING POWDER
Ashland LLC) 5.00 (Brenntag Specialties Inc.)
Decyl Oleate (Ceraphyl 140, Ashland LLC) 1.50
A. Calcium Carbonate (and) Mica (and) Lauroyl Lysine
Isocetyl Stearate (Ceraphyl 494, Ashland LLC) 0.75
(ST147010, Brenntag Specialties Inc.) 55.6% w/w
Octyl Methoxycinnamate (Escalol 557, Ashland LLC) 7.00
Illite (Color Clay Cocoa, Brenntag Specialties Inc.-Color Clay) 5.0
Benzophenone-3 (Escalol 567, Ashland LLC) 2.00
Iron Oxides (Yellow Iron Oxide YPE338073, Brenntag
Octyl Salicylate (Escalol 587, Ashland LLC) 3.00
Specialties Inc.-Yipin) 0.5
Dimethicone (Si-Tec DM 350, Ashland LLC) 1.00
Iron Oxides (Red Iron Oxide YPE338075, Brenntag
G. Acrylates/C12-22 Alkylmethacrylate Copolymer
(Allianz OPT, Ashland LLC) 1.00 Specialties Inc.-Yipin) 0.2
H. Cyclopentasiloxane (Si-Tec CM 040, Ashland LLC) 7.50 B. Methyl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate (Luxomatte
I. Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate MT128, Brenntag Specialties Inc.-HBS) 10.0
(Germall Plus, Ashland LLC) 0.50 Silica (and) Sodium Hyaluronate (SoftSphere HA 8211,
J. Butylene Glycol (and) 10-Hydroxydecanoic Acid (and) 1, Brenntag Specialties Inc.) 10.0
10-Decanediol (and) Sebacic Acid (Acnacidol BG, C. Dimethicone (Belsil DM10, Brenntag Specialties Inc.-Wacker) 7.0
Ashland LLC) 3.00 Trimethylsiloxysilicate (Belsil TMS 803, Brenntag Specialties
100.00 Inc.-Wacker) 3.0
Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (Optiphen, Brenntag
Procedure: Heat A to 75°C. Pre-wet B with C. Mix well until B is hydrated. Add BCD Specialties Inc.-Ashland) 0.7
to A. Pulverize E. Add E to F at 75°C using a homo mixer. Add EF to ABCD using
D. Bismuth Oxychloride (and) Mica (and) Iron Oxides (and)
homo-mixing. Homogenize for 10 min. Add G to batch with homo-mixing. Mix
Magnesium Stearate (EvoGlitter Chocolat TX:4016,
until uniform. Cool to 55°C, with slow homo-mixing. Add H and J to batch and
mix until uniform. Switch to sweep-mixing. Cool batch to 40°C. Add K to batch. Brenntag Specialties Inc.-Textron) 8.0
Mix until uniform. Continue sweep-mixing to RT. 100.00
Procedure: Add A ingredients to blender and mix at high speed until color is uniform.
Add B to A, mixing well. Separately premix C until clear. Add C to main tank,
VELVET FINISHING POWDER blending until uniform. Add D to batch, mixing with low shear until color is evenly
dispersed and batch is uniform.
(Bio-Botanica Inc.)
A. Mica 83.50% w/w

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EXPANDED Color Cosmetics Formulary

CREAM TO POWDER EYE SHADOW MAGICC, A MAGIC CC CREAM


(Evonik Industries AG) (CHINESE VERSION)
(Givaudan Active Beauty)
A creamy application with a velvet finish; hot pourable
A. Ethylhexyl Palmitate (Tegosoft OP, Evonik Industries AG) 16.00% w/w MagiCC is a snow-white cream that releases its beige
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate (Tegosoft CO, Evonik Industries AG) 14.00 color upon application, when its “magic-transforming”
Stearoxy Dimethicone (Abil Wax 2434, Evonik Industries AG) 6.00 beads are released on the skin. Its light texture and
Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax (Carnauba (Copernicia good pigment distribution provide a matte, even,
cerifera) wax, Azelis UK Life Sciences) 4.70 radiant complexion. The cream hydrates, unifies,
VP/Eicosene Copolymer (Antaron V-220F, Ashland LLC) 1.00 regenerates and protects.
Stearyl Heptanoate (Tegosoft SH, Evonik Industries AG) 16.00
Polymethylmethacrylate (proposed) 6.00 A. Water (aqua) 57.70% w/w
B. Silica (Aerosil 200, Evonik Industries AG) 3.00 Glycerin 1.40
Ascorbic Acid (and) Tocopherol (and) PEG-8 (and) Ascorbyl Propanediol (Zemea propanediol, DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio
Palmitate (and) Citric Acid (Oxynex K Liquid, EMD Products) 3.00
Chemicals Inc.-RONA Cosmetic Business Unit) 0.10 Disodium EDTA 0.05
Preservatives qs to 100.00 Water (aqua) (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Tamarindus Indica
C. Talc (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane (Talc AS R0435, Seed Extract (Unitamuron H-22, Givaudan Active Beauty) 1.00
Sensient Cosmetic Technologies) 6.00 B. Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (Carbopol
Lauryl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer 2.00 Ultrez 20 Polymer, Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) 0.15
Nylon-12 2.00 C. Polyglyceryl-3 Rice Branate (Prolix RB, Sinerga SpA) 5.00
Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate 6.00 Cyclopentasiloxane/Dimethicone Crosspolymer (DC 9045
Iron Oxides (and) Mica (Colorona Blackstar Colors, EMD Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dow Corning Corp.) 4.00
Chemicals Inc.-RONA Cosmetic Business Unit) 15.20 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (Cetiol SB 45, BASF SE) 1.00
Titanium Dioxide (and) Mica (Timiron, EMD Chemicals Inc.- Dicaprylyl Ether (Cetiol OE, BASF SE) 6.00
RONA Cosmetic Business Unit) 2.00 Dibutyl Adipate (Cetiol B, BASF SE) 2.00
Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol SN, BASF SE) 1.50
Procedure: Melt and stir A at 85-87°C. Add B to A, stir and homogenize for at least Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 1.50
5 min. Add C to AB in order while stirring. Stir and homogenize for 30 min at PVP/Hexadecene Copolymer/Octyldodecanol (Unimer
80-85°C. Pour into packaging.
U-1946, Givaudan Active Beauty) 1.00
Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E Acetate, BASF Corporation) 0.50
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Cyclohexasiloxane (Xiameter
PMX-0345 Cyclosiloxane Blend, Dow Corning Corp.) 2.00
D. Water (aqua) 0.16
Sodium Hydroxide 0.02
E. Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (Dry-Flo PC, Nouryon
(formerly AkzoNobel Specialty Chemicals)) 1.00

DM31 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019

CT1909_Color_Frmlry_fcx.indd 72 8/20/19 4:50 PM


EXPANDED Color Cosmetics Formulary

F. Phenoxyethanol (and) Benzoic Acid (and) Dehydroacetic


Acid (Unigard OA-94, Givaudan Active Beauty) 1.00
G. Beta Vulgaris (Beet) Root Extract (and) Glycerin (and)
Haberlea Rhodopensis Leaf Extract (and) Yeast Extract
(Unisurrection S-61, Givaudan Active Beauty) 1.00
Propylene Glycol (and) Fumaria Officinalis Extract (and)
Fumaric Acid (and) Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit
Extract (Unicontrozon C-49, Givaudan Active Beauty) 0.50
Panthenyl Triacetate (and) Ethyl Linoleate (and) Oleyl Alcohol
(and) Tocopherol (Uniprotect PT-3, Givaudan Active Beauty) 1.00
H. Water (aqua) 0.25
Sodium Hydroxide 0.03
I. Fragrance (parfum) 0.24
J. Titanium Dioxide (and) Mannitol (and) Cellulose (and) CI 77492
(and) Barium Sulfate (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and)
CI 77491 (and) CI 77499 (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
(and) Silica (and) Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose (Unispheres
WNRM-665VSBi, Givaudan Active Beauty) 7.00
100.00
Procedure: Mix gel and heat AB to 70°C. Heat C to 70°C. Add C to phase AB. Cool
and adjust pH with D to 5.7. Add E. Add F. Add G. Adjust pH with H. Add I. Add J.

MINIMALIST 'ICLOUD' BLUR


(Grant Industries Inc.)
A. Water (aqua) 50.30% w/w
Water (aqua) (and) Boswellia Serrata Extract (and) Centella
Asiatica Extract (and) Betula Alba Extract (and) Polygonum
Cuspidatum Root Extract (and) Phenoxyethanol (and)
Sodium Benzoate (Youth 360 BCR, Bio Component
Research) 5.00
Water (aqua) (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Ethoxydiglycol
(and) Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-14 (and) Lycium Barbarum
(Goji) Fruit Extract (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Sodium
Benzoate (Granactive AGE, Grant Industries Inc.) 5.00
Glycerin 5.00
B. Polymethylsilsesquioxane/Silica Crosspolymer (Granpowder
QSC, Grant Industries Inc.) 10.00
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate
Copolymer (Sepinov EMT 10, Seppic) 1.20
Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (euxyl PE 9010,
schulke) 1.00
Polysorbate 20 1.00
Polysilicone-11 (and) Water (aqua) (and) Barium Sulfate
B. Talc 19.00
(and) Sodium Carbonate (and) Laureth-12 (and)
Mica (and) Iron Oxides (Colorona Bronze, Merck KGaA) 10.50
Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (Gransil Blur-X60,
Iron Oxides 1.00
Grant Industries Inc.) 20.00
C. Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate (Olivem 1000,
Mica (and) CI 77891 (Timiron Super Gold, EMD Chemicals
The Hallstar Company) 3.50
Inc.-RONA Cosmetic Business Unit) 1.50
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate (and) Sorbitan
100.00
Palmitate (and) Sorbitan Oleate (Olivem VS Feel, The
Procedure: Combine A in main kettle equipped with side sweep. Sequentially add B Hallstar Company) 1.50
to A in the main kettle. Mix well before each addition. Lauryl Olivate (Sensolene Care DD, The Hallstar Company) 3.00
D. Preservatives qs
100.00
FIFTY SHADES OF BRONZE Procedure: Prepare A and disperse the thickeners one by one. Heat to 80°C. Add
(The Hallstar Company) B and disperse. Prepare C separately. Heat to 80°C. Add C to AB and homog-
enize. Cool to 40°C with stirring. Add D with stirring. Mix until uniform; properties
Olive oil-derived ingredients give this eye shadow (@25°C): appearance = shiny bronze paste; viscosity (10 rpm, Brk, RVDV, T-D,
light-reflecting properties. Olivem 1000 provides a deep after 24 hr at RT; mPa·s) = 100,000–140.000; pH = 6.5–7.5.
moisturizing effect with excellent spreadability. Olivem
VS Feel increases viscosity and stability. Sensolene Care
DD has a melting point near to skin temperature that MY BEAUTIFYING LOOSE POWDER
gives the product unique sensorial features. (Lucas Meyer Cosmetics)
A. Water (aqua) qs 100.00% w/w
Microcrystalline Cellulose (and) Cellulose Gum (Avicel This treated powder bypasses the problem of
PC 611, FMC Corp.) 0.50 introducing liquid-hydrosoluble active ingredients
Bentonite 1.00 in anhydrous products. It creates a natural-looking
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate 0.30 skin appearance.

Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019 Did you register yet? beautyaccelerate.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | DM32

CT1909_Color_Frmlry_fcx.indd 73 8/20/19 4:50 PM


EXPANDED Color Cosmetics Formulary

A. Talc 79.5% w/w


Nylon-12 5.0
Mica 2.0
Silica 2.0
Polymethyl Methacrylate 2.0
B. Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (and) Hydroxyethylcellulose
(and) Phospholipids (Matipure Oil Free, Lucas Meyer
Cosmetics) 3.0
Glycerin (and) Water (aqua) (and) Dextran (and) Caprooyl
Tetrapeptide-3 (ChroNOline, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 3.0
C. Maltodextrin (and) Mucuna Pruriens Seed Extract
(Melactiva, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics) 1.0
D. CI 77492 1.0
CI 15850 0.1
CI 77499 0.1
E. Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (Verstatil PC,
Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH) 1.0
Fragrance (parfum) 0.3
100.00
Procedure: Prepare B by adsorbing ingredients using an appropriate mixer. Sepa-
rately prepare A and C. Mix all three together until product is homogeneous.
Add D, then E in order to ABC and mix until homogeneous; properties: aspect =
beige-pink homogeneous powder.

WATERPROOF MASCARA
(schulke)
A. Water (aqua) 5.05% w/w
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate 0.50
Triethanolamine 0.50
Propylene Glycol 0.40
B. Isododecane (Permethyl 99A, Presperse, Inc.) qs to 100.00
Nylon-12 (Orgasol 2002 D Nat Cos, Vantage Specialty
Ingredients) 2.00
Stearic Acid 2.00
VP/Eicosene Copolymer (Ganex V-220, Ashland LLC) 5.00
Cyclomethicone (and) Quaternium-18 Hectorite (Bentone
Gel in Cyclomethicone, Clariant Int., Ltd.) 15.00
Tocopherol Acetate 0.50
Cyclohexasiloxane (and) Cyclopentasiloxane (Dow Corning
345 Fluid, Dow Corning Corp.) 2.00
Dimethicone (and) Trimethylsiloxysilicate (Dow Corning 593
Fluid, Dow Corning Corp.) 1.50
Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax 6.00
Ceresin 3.00
Paraffin 3.50
Polyethylene 2.50
Beeswax 1.75
Magnesium Carbonate 2.00
C. Dimethicone (and) Trimethylsiloxysilicate (and) Iron Oxides
(Black Iron Oxide Dispersion in Dimethicone (and)
Trimethylsiloxysilicate, IFC Solutions) 18.00
D. Preservatives qs
Procedure: Weigh water and gums in a suitable vessel and mix until completely
hydrated. Add remaining A and mix until completely uniform. In a separate ves-
sel, weigh B and begin heating to 75-80°C. Mix until all waxes are melted and
phase is uniform. Add C to B and mix until uniform. Continue mixing while heating
A to 70-75°C. When both phases are at temperature, slowly add A to BC with
continuous mixing. Mix for 15 min. Begin cooling, switching to side-wiping agita-
tor when batch becomes too heavy. Cool batch to 25-30°C. Add D and stir until
homogenous. Store in airtight containers until ready for filling.

DM33 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019

CT1909_Color_Frmlry_fcx.indd 74 8/20/19 4:50 PM


EXPANDED Color Cosmetics Formulary

CREAMY METALLIC EYE SHADOW Isononyl Isononanoate (and) Polybutene (and) Pentaerythrityl
Tetraisostearyl Alcohol (proposed) (Covaclear, Sensient
(Seppic) Cosmetic Technologies) 53.80
A. Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil 2.00% w/w 1,2-Hexanediol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (SymDiol 68,
Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline 1.00 Symrise AG) 0.50
Dipentaerythrityl Pentaisononanoate 12.00 Trideceth-9 (and) PEG-5 Isononanoate (and) Water (aqua)
B. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 (SymMollient W/S, Symrise AG) 0.10
Triethanolamine 0.20 Water (aqua) (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Angelica Polymorpha
C. Titanium Dioxide 2.50 Sinensis Root Extract (Actipone Angelica Root (Dang Gui),
Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer 0.50 Symrise AG) 0.10
Potassium Aluminum Silicate (and) Titanium Dioxide 100.00
(Candurin Silver Lustre, Merck KGaA) 5.00 Procedure: Mix A in a mixer. Separately mix B. Add B to A at low stirring with a blend-
Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide (Timiron MP 1005 Super Silk, er for 2 min in order to obtain a fine powder; the liquid phase must be absorbed.
EMD Chemicals Inc.-RONA Cosmetic Business Unit) 1.00
Iron Oxides 77499 (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Mica (Mica
Black, EMD Chemicals Inc.-RONA Cosmetic Business Unit) 1.00 WARMING LIP GLOSS
Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate (and) Silica (and) Titanium
Dioxide (and) Tin Oxide (Ronastar Noble Sparks, Merck (Vantage Specialty Ingredients)
KGaA) 1.25
D. Polyacrylate-X (proposed) (and) Isohexadecane (and) This is a low-viscosity blend that moisturizes and adds
Polysorbate 60 (Simulgel SMS 88, Seppic) 3.00 shine to lips with a warming sensation.
E. Xylityl Polyglucoside (and) Anhydroxylitol (and) Xylitol A. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene 58.00% w/w
(Aquaxyl, Seppic) 3.00 Tridecyl Trimellitate 35.00
Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (euxyl PE 9010, Vanillyl Butyl Ether (Hotact VBE, Vantage Specialty
schulke) 1.00 Ingredients) 0.25
Procedure: In a vessel, combine A and heat to 70°C. In the main tank, combine B B. PEG-4 Diheptanoate 6.55
and heat to 70°C. Add C in order to B while stirring. Add D to BC and stir until Propylparaben 0.20
the gel is smooth. Add A to batch and mix well. Start cooling and at 35°C, add 100.00
E, mixing until homogeneous. Procedure: Mix A at RT. Mix B and heat to 65°C. Mix until clear and uniform. Add B
to A with moderate speed mixing. Pour into suitable containers.

LIP DUST
(Symrise AG)

This powder transforms itself into an unexpected and


luxurious lip gloss.
A. Mica 5.50% w/w
Titanium Dioxide (and) C9-15 Fluoroalcohol Phosphate
(PW Covaflour, Sensient Cosmetic Technologies) 16.40
Iron Oxides (and) C9-15 Fluoroalcohol Phosphate (PFX 5
Red N-6, Sensient Cosmetic Technologies) 1.00
Iron Oxides (and) C9-15 Fluoroalcohol Phosphate (PF5 Red
516, Sensient Cosmetic Technologies) 1.00
Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) C9-15 Fluoroalcohol
Phosphate (PF5 Colorona Glitter Bordeaux, Sensient
Cosmetic Technologies) 6.00
Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) C9-15 Fluoroalcohol
Phosphate (PF5 Timiron Super Gold, Sensient Cosmetic
Technologies) 3.00
Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) C9-15 Fluoroalcohol
Phosphate (PF5 Flamenco Red, Sensient Cosmetic
Technologies) 3.00
B. Sucrose Polysoyate 8.80
Water (aqua) (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Sophora Japonica
Flower Extract (Actipone Sophora Flower (Huai Hua),
Symrise AG) 0.10
Hexyldecanol (and) Bisabolol (and) Cetyl Hydroxyproline
Palmitate (proposed) (and) Stearic Acid (and) Brassica
Campestris (Rapeseed) Sterols (SymRepair, Symrise AG) 0.03
Bisabolol (and) Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract
(SymRelief, Symrise AG) 0.03
Flavor 0.30
Trehalose 0.20
Pentylene Glycol (and) Butylene Glycol (SymCalmin,
Symrise AG) 0.10
Carnosine 0.03

Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019 Did you register yet? beautyaccelerate.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | DM34

CT1909_Color_Frmlry_fcx.indd 75 8/20/19 4:50 PM


Advertiser Index | C&T ®
Gattefosse USA
35
ebrun@gattefossecorp.com
www.gattefosse.com

The
The Definitive
Definitive Peer-Reviewed
Peer-Reviewed
Cosmetic
Cosmetic Science
Science Resource
Resource Grant Industries
1
info@grantinc.com
September 2019 | www.grantinc.com
Volume 134, number 8

Hallstar
54
www.hallstar.com
Acme Hardesty Co., Inc. (p. 55)
29
sales@acme-hardesty.com
www.acme-hardesty.com
Ikeda Corp.
27
info@ikeda-america.com
Arista Industries, Inc.
30 www.ikeda-corp.co.jp
info@aristaindustries.com
www.aristaindustries.com
Lipotec, LLC
73
salesoffice@lipotec.com
Ashland Specialty Ingredients
3 www.lipotec.com
www.ashland.com

LipoTrue
Beauty Accelerate 77
59 info@lipotrue.com
beautyaccelerate@allured.com
www.lipotrue.com
www.beautyaccelerate.com
(p. 61, 63, 64, 65)
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
21
info@lucasmeyercosmetics.com
Berjé, Inc. Symrise
C3 www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com 51
berje@berjeinc.com marco.massironi@cutech.it
www.berjeinc.com www.symselect.com/cutech
Mibelle AG Biochemistry
7
info@mibellebiochemistry.com
Bio-Botanica, Inc.
C2 www.mibellebiochemistry.com Sytheon Ltd.
www.bio-botanica.com 23
info@sytheonltd.com
www.sytheonltd.com
Campo Research Pte Ltd. MilliporeSigma
25
8 sigmaaldrich.com/chromolith
sales@campo-research.com
Vevy Europe SpA
www.campo-research.com 72
info@vevy.com
(p. 9) RCTS, Inc. www.vevy.com
53
mrozen@rctslabs.com
www.rctslabs.com
Contipro Voyant Beauty
71 C4
www.contipro.com info@voyantbeauty.com
Reed Exhibitions/in-cosmetics www.voyantbeauty.com
79
North America
Dymax Oligomers & Coatings www.northamerica.in-cosmetics.
67
www.dymax-oc.com/lumised com Wacker Chemie AG
11
www.wacker.com
Evonik Silab
5 49
personal-care@evonik.com silab@silab.fr Welch Holme & Clark Co., Inc.
www.elements-of-care.com 28
www.silab.fr www.welch-holme-clark.com

80 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019

CT1909_Advertiser_Index_fcx.indd 80 8/19/19 4:30 PM


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