Documente Academic
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com
Visit us at CASCC, booth #269 to learn more about fast and flexible innovation.”
Color
Formulary
Preserving
Sunscreens
Probiotic
Skin Care
Sun Protection,
Dryness and
Microbe Imaging
6 Editor’s Note
The Ultimate Think Tank
Beauty Accelerate 2019
10 Industry Insight
Sunscreen Dynamics and the ‘Reef Safe’ Dance
with M. Chandler
80 Ad Index
Testing
32
32 The Big Reveal
UV Imaging Uncovers Sun Protection,
Skin Dryness and Microbiome
by J. Crowther, Ph.D.
Formulating
56 Formulating Forum: The New
Age of Sustainable Sunscreens
Formulating for Modern Sun Care Trends
68
by N. Lionetti
78
68 From the Vault: Designing
Broad-Spectrum UV Absorbers
New Antaron™ ECo ethylcellulose is a nature-derived film former that provides excellent water
resistance in light feeling emulsions and sprays.
FLSCC Sun Symposium booth #42 | CA SCC Suppliers Day booth #548 | In-Cos Asia stand #M30
ashland.com/eco
5HJLVWHUHGWUDGHPDUN$VKODQGRULWVVXEVLGLDULHVUHJLVWHUHGLQYDULRXVFRXQWULHV7UDGHPDUN$VKODQGRULWVVXEVLGLDULHVUHJLVWHUHGLQYDULRXVFRXQWULHV
$VKODQG3+&
EDITORIAL
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AND ADVANCED
and support skin vitality. With our optimized
in vitro cultivation of NeoPlanta® Withania, we
add even more benefits to the gifts of nature:
NeoPlanta® Withania
from gluten and preservatives.
www.evonik.com/personal-care
I
consumer demands.
n 1985, the Journal of Product Innovation Management published a study on
the R&D/Marketing Interface in high-tech firms. Not surprisingly, the authors Scientific
found significant barriers existed between these two key product innovation Advisory Board
functions. How far have we come since then? Consultants are still brought
in-house to troubleshoot stop-gaps in product development, smooth out Eric Abrutyn
TPC2 Advisors Ltd.
communications and build collaborative cultures. We at Cosmetics & Toiletries
are still publishing about consumer versus scientific language and the reverse, Jean-Christophe Choulot
Caudalíe
translating data into claims.
Zoe Diana Draelos, M.D.
So it seems a universal truth that never the two shall meet—or could they? This Dermatology
idea served as the founding concept for an all-new event we’ve created for the Consulting Services
cosmetics and personal care industry: Beauty Accelerate. On October 15 in NYC, Angela R. Eppler, Ph.D.
the event will join beauty product stakeholders from companies of all sizes in Pfizer Consumer Healthcare
multiple event formats—with the goal of exchanging insights to develop unique Trefor Evans, Ph.D.
tools and more seamlessly integrate the entire product development process. TA Evans LLC/TRI Princeton
From a collaborative workshop, led by top consultants and beauty industry S. Peter Foltis
L’Oréal
forerunners, to a boutique-style exhibition of prototypes, IP, packaging,
turnkey solutions and more—plus curated roundtable discussions to network Mindy Goldstein, Ph.D.
Atlantic Coast Media Group
with industry thought leaders—it’s the ultimate think tank for beauty product
development that you won’t want to miss. John Jiménez
Belcorp Colombia
Peter Tsolis
Until then, enjoy this month’s issue, covering: UV protection, sunscreen The Estée Lauder Companies
preservation, microbiome moisturization, anti-aging and our all-new “Expert
Russel Walters, Ph.D.
Opinions” column, exclusive to the digital magazine. Johnson & Johnson
Yours in Innovation, Claudie Willemin
Independent Consultant
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jawline. Mesenchymal stemnotably be been
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shown at to
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If the runways of the leading fashion designers are anything to go by, the trends in make-up and styling are
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complemented by healthy glossy hair. The “undone” appearance of matte, on the other hand, is created by
nude-make-up and faded gloss in beach waves. Whether for hair care, skin care or make-up – achieve the
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Multifunctional Solutions
HyWhite
Contipro a.s.
www.contipro.com
HyWhite (INCI:
Sodium Hyaluronate
(and) Linolenic Acid)
is a derivative of a
low-molecular-weight
hyaluronic acid and
a-linolenic acid.
Both parts of the molecule significantly contribute to the efficacy
of the final product, HyWhite. Effectiveness was shown in both Pinolumin
Asian and Caucasian skin types, with a 40% improvement in Mibelle Biochemistry
skin lightness (ITA). www.mibellebiochemistry.com
Pinolumin (INCI: Pinus Cembra Wood Extract (and) Maltodextrin (and)
Water (aqua))—an active to relax stressed skin—is an extract of the
MCT (Medium Triglyceride) Swiss stone pine, a tree native to the mountain region of Switzerland.
Oil and Oil Powder The extract has soothing and anti-inflammatory effects. In clinical
Arista Industries, Inc. studies, Pinolumin reduced skin irritation and improved skin tone
www.aristaindustries.com evenness for radiant, relaxed skin.
MCT or Medium Chain Tri-
glycerides C:8 and C:10 (INCI:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) are Acticire MB
derived from coconut or palm Gattefossé
oil, and are offered in liquid www.gattefosse.com
and powder form. Powder bases are maltodextrin, non-GMO tapioca,
Acticire MB (INCI: Jojoba
acacia fiber, pea protein and rice protein; oil loads up to 70%
Esters (and) Helianthus
are available.
Annuus (Sunflower)
Seed Wax (and) Acacia
Decurrens Flower Wax
(and) Polyglycerin-3) is a
texturizing and moistur-
izing ingredient, designed
to upgrade any cosmetic formulation. 100% natural in origin, and based on
a functionalized complex of jojoba, mimosa and sunflower waxes, Acticire
MB brings durable moisturization and comfort to the skin and enables the
creation of original textures.
Stellight
Lipotrue Inc.
www.lipotrue.com
Stellight (INCI: Acetyl Hexapep-
Pureact TR-L90 tide-1) gives users luminous and
bright skin. Thanks to its unique
Innospec Performance Chemicals
activity on melanocytes, kerati-
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nocytes and fibroblasts, Stellight
Create ultra-mild, easily rinsable shower gels, body washes and modulates the cell intercommu-
combo bars with Innospec’s Pureact TR-L90 (INCI: Sodium Methyl nication required for melanogen-
Lauroyl Taurate). This product is naturally derived, readily biode- esis. Consumers can drawn their
gradable, sulfate-free and “salt”-free. Pureact TR-L90 is available own constellation and restore skin
in flake or chip form, allowing for ease of use. brightness to help obtain captivating and glowing beauty.
Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019 Did you register yet? beautyaccelerate.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 13
CalBlend PE
Pilot Chemical Company
www.pilotchemical.com
CalBlend PE (INCI: Sodium
Laureth Sulfate (and) Cocami- Ecofil B110
dopropyl Betaine (and) Sodium Eckart
Lauryl Sulfate (and) Cocamide www.eckart.net
MIPA) builds viscosity through
Ecofil B110 (INCI:
the application of salt addi-
Hydroxybutyric Acid/
tives. The resulting creamy
Hydroxypentanoic Acid
lather cleanses and leaves
Copolymer) is a natural-
behind a silky finish on skin.
ly fermented micronized
Applications include shampoo,
polymer filler that cre-
body wash, liquid hand soap
ates soft-focus effects; intensifies colors; boosts the appearance
and pet shampoo.
of healthy skin; mattifies; and alters formulation properties such as
application behavior and skin feel.
Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019 Did you register yet? beautyaccelerate.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 15
OPINIONS
Sunscreens:
Lower SPFs, Regulations,
Esthetic Balancing Act & More
Claims Pop
Fred Zülli, managing director, Mibelle Biochemistry, points Ingredient Mixing and
to the ambiguity of dry skin as a key driver in the market... Microbiome Balancing Act
Caren Dres-Hajeski, business unit director, Personal
Care, Acme-Hardesty, does not see moisturizing cosmetic
Going Clean and
products going anywhere soon...
Embracing Oils
Clean beauty is vital for today’s moisturizer/skin
hydration market, according to Rebecca Blahosky, VP of Contributors:
sales and marketing, Botanic Innovations... NICOLA LIONETTI, ISPE S.R.L., MILAN
Next-level Moisturizers
Breaking Tradition,
Personalization,
Clean Concepts & Others
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SUNSCREENS
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Carl D’Ruiz
DSM Personal Care
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Sprayable, Sparkling and All in all, it seems that zinc oxide is winning
the race in today’s sunscreen market in the
High-SPF U.S. “Zinc oxide provides broad spectrum and
Anna Gripp, marketing manager for BASF’s efficient UVA coverage,” says Gripp. “It also is
personal care division in North America, sees stable, compatible with other ingredients in
the U.S. sun care industry shifting attention formulas, non-staining and has a long history of
toward inorganic UV filters. “This is especially safe use.”
true for zinc oxide. Consumers are familiar with Nano or not, coated or uncoated, BASF
it and it’s even been used in baby sunscreens, has designed zinc oxide in numerous formats;
so users know it’s safe, which is important including its new Z-CoteSimple (INCI: Zinc
to them.” Oxide (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and)
She noted that while the FDA is finalizing Triethoxycaprylylsilane (and) Polyhydroxyste-
its UV filter proposed rule, BASF Personal Care aric Acid (non-nano)) 70% pourable dispersion,
North America has moved ahead with a focus for ease of handling.
on optimizing sprayable forms of inorganic UV Circling back to the beginning of these
filters. “About thirty percent of the sunscreen “Expert Opinions,” where Chandler proposed a
market is in spray formats, so we’re coming lower SPF for better protection, Gripp affirms
out with a nice-feeling, non-clogging zinc oxide that higher SPFs are what consumers want.
spray concept.” “In the eyes of the end consumer, a higher
Gripp also observes the industry’s interest in SPF is better,” she says.
inorganic sunscreen materials pointing to novel
trends including sparkling “see me” sunscreen
types, as well as hydrating and weightless
products. “Daily wear is increasingly using
sunscreens, too,” she adds, “and this trend
is continuing.”
Anna Gripp
BASF Care Chemicals
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NEXT-LEVEL
MOISTURIZERS Modernizing Moisturizers “However, the tools provided by cosmetic
The remedy to many of today’s consumers’ ingredients assembled in many efficient combina-
skin concerns is, arguably, moisturization. Skin tions become more refined every day, helping
hydration helps to prevent wrinkles and signs of humans to live more and more comfortably within
aging; provides extra defense to the skin barrier, their own boundaries—and skin.”
crucial for protective skin care; remedies dryness; Chemists have found new ways to introduce
and balances skin. Once these benefits are com- moisture to skin; notable examples include the use
bined with a myriad of actives and formulating of fine water sprays to improve skin’s water reten-
techniques, we are left with a veritable skin care tion, decrease transepidermal water loss (TEWL)
powerhouse that is very accessible to consumers. and boost elasticityb along with numerous delivery
The aim and method of skin moisturizers has systems comprising dry masks, microbeads
shifted through decades of cosmetic trends and and capsules, patches and other chemical and
priorities. For modern products, “... moisturizing physical enhancers.
efficacy is achieved by the synergy of several Although there are certain standby ingredients
different approaches performing contemporarily in moisturizers—of which hyaluronic acid, vari-
in the same product through direct and indirect ous natural oils and, first and foremost, water, are
moisturization,” Nicola Lionetti, ISPE srl, previ- popular—trends and new technology have allowed
ously wrotea. modern moisturizers to go to the next level to
Lionetti continues: “As skin represents the address the above skin concerns. Today’s hydrat-
field of action of cosmetics, and skin mois- ing products are cleaner and more natural than
turization is essential for its equilibrium and before; include ingredients that used to be a nov-
functionality, cosmetic formulators are continu- elty such as prebiotics; and bring innovation to
ously challenged by new discoveries in the fields one of personal care’s most steadfast applications.
of dermatology, physiology and biology concern-
b
Effect of spraying of fine water particles on facial skin
ing the skin-water equilibrium.
moisture and viscoelasticity in adult women, Skin Research
and Technology
a
Water Meets Skin: Modern Moisturizers,
Cosmetics & Toiletries Nicola Lionetti
ISPE
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Going Clean and potential. Not a small task, but very exciting!”
How does Botanic Innovations fit into the
Embracing Oils modern moisturization market? Blahosky sees
Clean beauty is vital for today’s moistur- oils as the forefront of hydrating ingredients.
izer/skin hydration market, according to She writes, “It’s exciting to see how con-
Rebecca Blahosky, VP of sales and marketing, sumer adoption of use of oils in moisturizers
Botanic Innovations. has gone from ‘oil-free’ to embracing these
“Consumers are asking for ... proven clean beautiful, deeply moisturizing ingredients. Oils
ingredients with a solid and transparent supply have been used for centuries for skin mois-
chain, with a preference of [being] naturally turization and the future will see optimized
derived. When brands and product developers oil blends—instead of single oil products—
contact us for ingredients to be formulated into that are formulated for best performance,
new moisturizer formulations, the nutritional
profile, performance data and shelf life con-
siderations are key, but the other criteria are
non-negotiable for ingredient consideration.” Oils have been used
for centuries for skin
Blahosky sees beauty’s online presence as
a potential advantage and disadvantage, since
“as social media becomes integrated more and
more into the customer and brand experience, moisturization and
this will actually drive trust (and mistrust)
in brands. Those brands/products that can the future will see
authentically deliver on promise, and can do
so within a proven social/environmental/clean/
optimized oil blends
natural/trace-able ‘halo’ will enjoy the untapped
instead of single oil
products.
best moisturizing benefit and (hopefully) best
impact on clean beauty and sustainability.
“With consumer adoption of unique, but
clean and sustainable oils—like fruit and herb
seed oils—the focus will shift to best produc-
tion methods (like cold-pressed, chemical-free,
low-heat processes, best material handling)
to elevate quality and performance of those
ingredients that will drive consumer adoption
and replenishment.
“Specific oils to watch—due to best moistur-
izing properties—will be: (all cold-pressed)
Nigella sativa (black cumin) seed oil, Vaccinium
macrocarpon (cranberry) seed oil, Cucumis
sativus (cucumber) seed oil, Cucurbita pepo
(pumpkin) seed oil and Daucus carota sativa
(carrot) seed oil. All of these oils support
wonderful moisturizing properties, but are also
locally (Wisconsin/USA) produced, scalable,
clean and sustainable.”
Rebecca Blahosky
Botanic Innovations
Keeping skin’s
the one thing that most consumers crave. Consum-
ers are always looking at new ways to achieve
improved moisturization of the skin,” commented
Dres-Hajeski. “Current trends that are focused on microbiome in balance
naturals and naturally derived ingredients, person-
alization of products and the use of technology are can improve overall
all product development drivers.”
Formulators should think outside the box to
skin condition, including
keep pace with today’s market trends, according to
Dres-Hajeski. She notes that, “finding new products
moisturization.
that can work alongside the current market trends
is key. Looking beyond humectants and looking “In terms of natural oils and balms, there are
towards ingredients that help to rebalance the skin many exotic choices, such as products from the
and improve barrier function will also help improve amazon like cupuacu butter and copaiba oil,
the skin. Combining natural oils and butters along [such as those from Citroleo]. More traditional
with well-known building-block moisturizers like oils such as castor oil can also provide the func-
hyaluronic acid, for example, is just one avenue tion that is needed,” commented Dres-Hajeski.
that can be utilized. Formulators can also target the skin micro-
biome with prebiotic materials, including Cosun
Biobased Product’s CBP Inulin.
“While there is much work that still needs to
be done in [the skin microbiome], one thing is
for certain, and that is that prebiotic materials
will help to provide moisturization to the skin no
matter what. The nature of prebiotics, and their
structure as fructans, will undoubtedly provide
moisturization to the skin,” said Des-Hajeski.
Caren Dres-Hajeski
Acme-Hardesty
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KEY POINTS
• Papaver rhoeas extract
from the seeds of field poppies
demonstrates lipolytic activity
and microcirculation effects.
Youth in
Full Bloom facebook.com/CandTmagazine
18 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
Cosmetics & Toiletries
Reproduction @cosmeticsandtoiletries
in English or any other language
all or part of this article is strictly prohibited.
© 2019 Allured Business Media.
of
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youyou
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yet? beautyaccelerate.com
yet? beautyaccelerate.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 19
Following these promising findings, the under-eye circles, puffiness and age-related
skin-firming and anti-cellulite efficacies of sagging skin.
Papaver rhoeas extract were investigated in To understand these effects, it is necessary
vivo in a randomized, double-blind, placebo- to understand what microcirculation means for
controlled study.4 Here, an emulsion containing the skin and how modifications to it may impact
0.1% Papaver rhoeas extract was applied to the the skin’s biochemical parameters and appear-
thighs of 22 volunteers and induced statistically ance. Microcirculation only represents about
significant improvements in all viscoelastic- 5% of the body’s total blood volume but it is
ity and skin smoothness parameters, blood vital for functions such as metabolic exchanges,
microcirculation, and linearization of the homeostasis of interstitials fluids, regulation of
dermo-hypodermal junction. blood pressure and thermoregulation for skin
Moreover, a comparison of the test product microcirculation. It ensures tissue nutrition and
versus a placebo revealed statistically significant viability and enables optimized oxygenation
improvements after eight weeks of treat- within skin.5 Thus, an impaired skin microcircu-
ment in favor of the test product for the two lation may affect both the function of lymphatic
parameters specifically linked to cellulite: skin vessels, leading to oedema, as well as skin color
blood microflow and the length of the dermo- due to the dilatation of dermal blood vessels.6-8
hypodermal junction. These improvements were From this foundation and based on previous
also clinically visible on digital images of the work, the current authors explored the proper-
treated areas. ties of Papaver rhoeas extract for potential facial
Besides these visible effects, the significant care benefits. A new clinical study was initiated,
increase in microflow achieved by the topical described herein, to evaluate face-firming and
application of Papaver rhoeas extract warranted face-sculpting effects as well as the ability of
further investigation. Thus, the present authors the extract to reduce under-eye bags and dark
aimed to assess whether their previous findings circles. The study was randomized and double-
could translate to facial areas to address com- blinded, with a placebo control.
mon cosmetic problems often associated with
an impaired skin microcirculation; e.g., dark Materials and Methods
Test extract: The Papaver rhoeas flowers,
and ultimately the seedsa, from which the
text extract was derived were predominantly
cultivated in France according to sustainable
The anti-wrinkle products market is expected
principles. The extract is obtained via ethanol/
to reach $12.8 billion by 2027, expanding at a CO2 co-extraction, known as supercritical CO2
CAGR of 5.8%. extraction (74 bar, 31°C), which is a well-estab-
lished green process that is generally preferred
over processes that use conventional solvents.9
Source: Global Cosmetic Industry The ethanol is removed by vacuum evapora-
tion and the remaining oil extract is clarified by
(www.GCImagazine.com)
a
Greenpharma S.A.S.
ROSALITY™
Fighting against the stressosphere™
to recover skin vitality
Illuminates skin complexion
Reduces the appearance of dark circles
D0 D28
/O(&78
7(
$/
,1
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www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com
filtration and conditioned under inert atmo- Test emulsions: An o/w emulsion was then
sphere to create a standardized extract. The developed containing 0.2%, or not (placebo),
lead component of the extract is linoleic acid, Papaver rhoeas extract. Both creams contained
in a concentration range between 69-85%. no other known skin care actives such as caf-
Other components include oleic acid, palmitic feine (see Formula 1).
acid and further saturated fatty acids bound or Clinical protocol: Tests were performed
in free form. according to the Declaration of Helsinki in 22
Although the poppy species Papaver rhoeas Caucasian female volunteers, with an average
is not known to contain alkaloids, the seed age 57.5 ± 7.2 years. The selection of volunteers
extract was nonetheless analyzed for them was carried out according to previously agreed
by means of HPLC/MS chromatography. inclusion criteria including age (40-70 years)
The absence of alkaloids from the morphine and dark under-eye circles. The volunteers
or codeine type was confirmed. Finally, the applied each product to half of their face twice a
poppy seed extract was then mixed with a day for eight weeks. The side of application, i.e.,
suitable cosmetic oil, in this case caprylic/ left or right, of the two formulas was random-
capric triglyceride, for ease of formulation. The ized among the volunteers.
final ingredient was a clear oil containing 10%
Papaver rhoeas extract.
ONOO-
Scavenger
O Skin Damage
Chelator
Hydrogen
Bonding
H• Donor
HO O AZ Antioxidant
Antioxidant
OCH3
1
O2 Physical
Quencher Free Radicals
INCI: Acetyl Zingertone
AZ Chelator AZ Quencher
Molecule*
Molecule
SYTHEON LTD. • 315 Wootton Street, Boonton, NJ 07005, USA • www.sytheonltd.com • info@sytheonltd.com • Tel.: +1 973.988.1075
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extracellular matrix,
verted into monochromatic images by means
of a software moduled to provide evidence of
c
Fotofinder Dermoscope
d
UVscan
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References
1. Klatschmohn (Poppy). Retrieved from http://www.gardnerian.de/
pflanzen/klatschmohn.htm
2. Papaver rhoeas. Retrieved from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/
Papaver_rhoeas
3. Heider, L., Lefort, M., Carola, C., Hanau, H., Pflücker, F., Bernard,
P., and Himbert, F. (2014). New cosmetic aspects of Papaver
rhoeas. H&PC Today, 9(2), 59-63.
4. Baldecchi, T., Heider, L., Lefort, M., Carola, C, Cartigliani, C.,
Bonfigli, A., and Pflücker, F. (2014). The skin firming 'red-volution':
Anti-cellulite efficacy of a Papaver rhoeas extract. IFSCC, 4,
19-22.
5. Bongard, O., and Bounameaux, H. (1993). Clinical investigation
of skin microcirculation. Dermatology, 186(1), 6-11.
6. Freitag, F. M., and Cestari, T. F. (2007). What causes dark circles
under the eyes? J Cosmet Dermatol. 6(3), 211-5.
7. Graziosi, A. C., Quaresma, M. R., Michalany, N. S., and Ferreira,
L. M. (2013). Cutaneous idiopathic hyperchromia of the orbital
region (CIHOR): A histopathological study. Aesthetic Plast Surg,
37(2), 434-8.
8. Chajra, H., Auriol, D., Schweikert, K., and Lefevre, F. (2014).
Targeting inflammatory pathways to reduce dark circles and puffi-
ness. SÖFW J, 140(4), 16-31.
9. Abbas, K. A., Mohamed, A., Abdulamir, A. S., and Abas, H. A.
(2008). A review on supercritical fluid extraction as a new analyti-
cal method. Am J Biochem Biotech, 4, 345-353.
10. Yaar, M., and Gilchrest, B. A. (2001). Skin aging: Postulated
mechanisms and consequent changes in structure and function.
Clin Geriatr Med, 17, 617–630.
http://www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/newsletter
RECENT VIDEOS
• Probiotics to Cosmetics:
A ‘Natural’ Progression
RECENT PODCASTS
KEY POINTS
• In order to maintain live bacteria in
cosmetic formulations, preservatives must
be omitted; this poses problems with
handling, storage and safety.
• In response, these authors developed
an ingredient to leverage the benefits
of living probiotics without their
formulating limitations.
Practical Probiotics
Live Microbial
Skin Benefits
Without Limits
I. Meyer, M. Pesaro, D. Stuhlmann, L. Garbe and G. Schmaus
Symrise AG, Holzminden, Germany
K. Holmgren and N. Larsson
Probi AB, Lund, Sweden
Editor’s note: Readers should note the World the host.3 However, in order to maintain live
Health Organization (WHO) defines a probiotic bacteria in cosmetic formulations, preservatives
as a living organism. Here, however, the described
must be omitted; this results in considerable
probiotic, while retaining the structures of its living
counterpart, is not in fact alive; although the authors problems with handling, storage and the safety
D
report its activities behave as such and the ingredient of respective finished market products. To
imparts the benefits of a living entity. circumvent these hurdles, the present authors
sought to develop a probiotic-derived ingredient
combining the skin health benefits of a living
probiotic with the physical advantages of a clas-
sical cosmetic ingredient; i.e., being relatively
easy to use and compatible in a wide range of
riven by modern cosmetic formulations and applications.
lifestyle and the In a broad screening stepa, a specific
eclectic evolution of Lactobacillus strain was identified for topical
new technologies, applications: Lactobacillus plantarum HEAL19.
consumers are aware This strain initially was isolated and identifiedb
of the potential skin from the gut of a healthy Swedish individual.
damage environmental stressors can induce. After biofermentation, downstream process-
As such, consumers increasingly seek topical ing including mild heat treatment and spray
products that improve skin’s endogenous first- drying were used to prohibit further bacterial
line defense mechanisms. growth while also maintaining the now nonliv-
In relation, the concept of probiotics to ing bacteria structures. The resulting processed
improve gut health is well-established in both probiotic could be handled as a traditional
the scientific literature and consumer percep- cosmetic ingredient in many different types of
tion.1 In fact, 79% of consumers already believe formulations, even those protected by preserva-
the use of probiotics is beneficial for skin health2 tives (data not shown), while also delivering
and 63% of consumers think probiotics fit well living probiotic-like skin health benefits, as will
into the beauty care category. Regardless, the be shown.
benefits of microorganisms applied topically are
not widely described. Materials and Methods
According to the WHO, probiotics are living Heat-treated microbes: Living freeze-dried
microorganisms that, when administered in Lactobacillus were obtainedb. After cultivation,
adequate amounts, confer a health benefit on the bacteria were centrifuged and pasteurized
under mild conditions. The water was then
removed from the slurry by procedural drying.
The global cosmetic probiotic market is Filaggrin synthesis in human skin
explants: To assess the ability of the processed
anticipated to reach US $37.8 million by 2025,
probioticc to boost the skin barrier, filaggrin
climbing at a CAGR of 7.6% between 2017
and 2025.
a
The screening process was developed by Symrise.
b
Microbe identification, isolation and freeze drying was
performed by Probi AB.
Source: Hexa Research c
SymReboot L19 (INCI: Maltodextrin (and)
Lactobacillus Ferment)
IL-8 concentrations in the supernatants were reconstructed epidermal 3D models, which were
analyzed by ELISA technique. treated systemically by the processed probiotic.
Antimicrobial peptide (AMP) gene induc- After 48 hr of incubation, models were lysed
tion in 3D skin models: AMP induction, and RNA was isolated. Reverse transcrip-
indicative of improvements in skin’s endogenous tion and quantitative real-time PCR were
defenses, was measured in vitro with human performed using Taq-Man Array fast 96-well
a) b)
After 48 hr pre-treatment with 0.02% processed probiotic and stimulation with S. aureus (a) and IL-1a (b)
a) b)
S100A7 (psoriasin) (a) and S100A8 and S100A9 (Calprotectin complex or Calgranulin)(b)
Figure 5. TEWL reduction by 0.1% processed probiotic, versus placebo and untreated skin
Figure 6. Improvement in skin capacitance by 0.1% processed probiotic versus placebo and
untreated skin
a) b)
At Day 0 (baseline) (a) and Day 28 after treatment (b) (subject #42)
Continued from Page DM18 (in red) in cross-sections after 5 days of topical
treatment with the processed probiotic. Incu-
formulas twice daily to their inner forearms. bation with 0.05% and 0.5% of the probiotic
This application period was followed by a 3-day ingredient led to significant, dose-dependent
post-treatment phase. filaggrin induction by 42% and 77%, respectively
Measurements took place at days 0 (see Figure 2 on Page DM16). This suggested
(baseline), 7, 14, 28, 42 and 45—i.e., 42 days the processed probiotic was suitable for skin
of treatment + 3 days post-treatment—and barrier-strengthening benefits.
included the parameters of transepidermal Anti-inflammatory effects in vitro: The IL-8
water loss (TEWL), skin hydration/capacitance release from HaCaT keratinocytes after stimula-
and dryness scoring by a trained expert. tion with IL-1a was inhibited by the positive
control dexamethasone, as well as by the pro-
Results cessed probiotic (see Figure 3 on Page DM17).
Heat-treated microbes: The final processed Furthermore, when IL-8 release was stimulated
probiotic cosmetic ingredient was a beige by the S. aureus suspension, only the test probi-
powder. When viewed under a microscope, otic ingredient could inhibit its elevated release.
the heat-treated bacteria appeared much like The positive control, dexamethasone, had no
their living counterparts (see Figure 1 on Page effect. Hence, the processed probiotic demon-
DM16). The bacterial structures appear to be strated specific anti-inflammatory efficacy in
unchanged by the mild processing and no living vitro against the bacterial stimulation.
colony forming units (CFUs) were found. AMP gene induction in 3D skin models:
Filaggrin synthesis in human skin The psoriasin (S100A7) gene was induced dose-
explants: As noted, effects on barrier function- dependently up to 32.7-fold by the processed
ing were investigated in human skin explants by probiotic in 3D skin models after 48 hr of sys-
analyzing filaggrin content via immunostaining temic treatment (see Figure 4 on Page DM17).
in vitro by anti-inflammatory effects. Heat 3. FAO/WHO (2001). Definition of probiotics. Retrieved from
http://www.fao.org/3/a-a0512e.pdf
treatment also did not undermine its capability
KEY POINTS
• UV reflectance and fluorescence
photography can provide insights into skin
conditions that are otherwise not visible.
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Sponsored by:
O ur world typi-
cally appears in
an abundance
of colors from
which we derive
a vast amount
of information. Despite this, our eyes are still
only sensitive to a relatively narrow range of
wavelengths—from approximately 390-720 nm.
As such, while standard visible light imaging of
the skin provides a good amount of information
about skin condition, such as redness, erythema,
that is not perceivable by normal visible light
imaging. Imaging in these regions does come
with complexities, though; such as the need for
specialized camera equipment, lenses, lighting
and subject handling.
Given this added complexity, the reader may
wonder whether these techniques are worth
the effort and of what value they can be to skin
care research. As the present article reveals, UV
reflectance and fluorescence imaging can indeed
benefit skin research. It also provides sugges-
tions and advice to successfully apply these
overall appearance and skin tone, our eyes are types of photography.
not sensitive to the broader spectral ranges as
low as 300 nm and as high as 3,000 nm. Getting the Picture
At shorter wavelengths is UV light, while As a foundation for the present discussion,
longer wavelengths signify infrared (IR) radia- it is first useful to visualize how skin appears in
tion. These both interact with skin differently UV reflectance photography; pictures of the skin
than visible light and can provide information under UV and normal visible light are shown
Did isyou
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strictly yet?©beautyaccelerate.com
prohibited. 2019 Allured Business Media. Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 33
a) b)
c)
Figure 1. Facial photographs taken with visible (a), UV (b) and transmission spectra (c) filters
It is crucial to develop
products that have
both the ability to
block or absorb UV
and are easily applied,
forming an even,
effective layer on skin.
The interaction of light with skin is a
complex process in which a number of things
can happen. Light can be reflected from either
the surface of the stratum corneum (SC) or from
the interface between different layers within
the skin. It also can be absorbed or induce
fluorescence, where the incoming light interacts
with specific chemical entities within the skin
and is then reemitted at a longer wavelength.
Examples of UV-induced fluorescence in skin
are given in Figure 2. Here, fluorescence imag-
ing emphasizes the presence of drier skin, which
appears as lighter colors. Fluorescence also gen-
erates a variety of colors in bacteria-rich areas,
such as within pores on the nose and forehead.
These images were taken in a darkened room
with a standard SLR camera and lens but with
Images of skin taken via UV light have a
a flashlight modified to produce UVA light and
much different appearance. In the reflected
block visible light.
UV light image, skin looks darker than under
Following, the ben-
visible light (see Figure 1b). This is because the
efits of UV reflectance
absorption of light by melanin rises as the wave-
and fluorescence
length shortens, resulting in stronger absorption
imaging, along
of the UV wavelengths compared with visible
with application
light. UV light also accentuates the surface
tips, are covered in
texture of skin, making lines and wrinkles seem
more detail.
more prominent. In these figures, the subject’s
glasses also now appear black, as they have a
UV protective coating on them that absorbs
UV
UV light and prevents it from reaching the Reflectance
eyes. Furthermore, the UV image is presented Imaging of
in monochrome and was taken on a standard
single lens reflex (SLR) camera converted to
Sunscreens
multispectral imaging. As will be discussed later, UV-related
the choice of lens and filter, as well as camera skin damage is a
and light source, are all vital to consider when widespread issue
imaging in UV. Finally, the transmission spectra with more than
of the filters used for the images are shown in 130,000 new cases
Figure 1c. of skin cancer being
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a) b)
Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019 Did you register yet? beautyaccelerate.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 39
nearly impossible to see the subject through the be seen through the viewfinder, is an alternative.
viewfinder of the camera, although “Live View” Lens choice: Lens choice also is important,
can still sometimes be used. This limitation since most modern camera lenses contain UV-
can be a complicating factor when imaging in blocking materials and as such are not ideal for
a clinical setting, so placing the UV conversion UVA imaging. If standard camera and enlarger
filter directly in front of the sensor to produce a lenses are used, it is important to note that
dedicated UV camera, where the subject can still any light transmitted will shift toward the long
wavelength end of the UVA spectrum.
As such, any normal camera lens
intended to be used for UV reflectance
a) imaging should ideally be tested
against a more specialized UV lens for
suitability.
The Asahi Ultra Achromatic
Takumar 85 mm f4.5 lens is special-
ized and contains quartz and calcium
fluoride elements rather than glass.
As such, it is ideal for imaging in
UV, visible and IR lights. It is, how-
ever, rare and not readily available.
Other lenses ideally suitable for UV
reflectance photography include the
UV-Nikkor Macro 105 mm f4.5, cur-
rently manufactured as the Rayfact
PF10545MF-UV; the Hasselblad 105
mm f4.3 UV-Sonnar; and the Jenoptik
105 mm and 60 mm macro lenses.
Filter choice: As with lens choice,
it is vital to choose the correct filter
to enable UV to pass through while
b) preventing the transmission of visible
and IR light. A wide range of filters
exists that claim to be suitable for UV
photography, but not all are ideal for
use with modern digital cameras. The
issue comes about due to the sensi-
tivity of camera sensors compared
with film.
Earlier types of UV-passing filters,
such as B+W 403, Kodak #18A, Schott
UG1, Schott UG11, and Hoya U-330
to U-360, do allow UVA and even, in
some cases, UVB to pass through and
block the majority of visible light.
However, they also allow varying
degrees of IR light to pass through.
For film cameras, this was not a
problem—orthochromatic film was
sensitive to UV light, but not IR and,
Figure 5. Normal (a) and cross-polarized (b) UVA image as a result, it did not matter whether
of an SPF 50 sunscreen film applied to skin at a dose of the filter allowed IR to pass through.
2 µL/cm 2 Modern camera sensors, however,
are highly sensitive to IR; much more
so than they are to UV. Therefore,
a) b) c)
Figure 6. Visioscan images from normal (a), dry (b) and severely dry (c) skin
a) b)
Fluorescence of a subject shows that the PpIX fluorescence spots are mainly localized in the T-zone and area surrounding the nose, while the CpIII
fluorescence spots can be located anywhere on the subject’s face; reproduced with permission from Reference 11.
Figure 7. Facial porphyrin distribution of CpIII fluorescence (a) and PpIX (b)
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Light source: The choice of light source UVA imaging is directly applicable for direct
also is important. Sunlight is comprised of a measurements of sunscreen wash-off in real-life,
wide range of wavelengths from UV through in vivo and in-use situations.
IR; however, its intensity and distribution of Calibration: Finally, with visible light
wavelengths varies as a function of time of day, imaging, calibrating the amount of UVA being
time of year, geographical location and cloud reflected from the skin surface can be extremely
cover, so it is far from the ideal light source for useful; for example, when trying to understand
research. Camera flashes normally have coatings the amount of UV being absorbed by a sun-
or filters on them to minimize the amount of screen film. Standard camera calibration charts
UV they emit. Ideally, the skin researcher should are unsuitable for UV reflectance photography,
check the flash suitability using a spectrometer however, as their optical properties vary sub-
before assuming that quartz tubes offer more stantially across the UVA range. Spectralon
UV than uncoated glass tubes. diffuse reflectance standards, or simpler stan-
dards made using a mixture of carbon black,
plaster of Paris and magnesium oxide, can
images can be
of fluorescence. Imaging this light is simpler
for the researcher from the standpoint of the
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Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019 Did you register yet? beautyaccelerate.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 45
KEY POINTS
• Product quality and consumer health are
on the line when it comes to a product's
microbiology and stability status.
Pascal Yvon
BioSciences Expansion, LLC, Newtown, PA U.S.
C osmetic
products
are not
expected
to be
completely
free of all microorganisms. However,
products: 1) must be free from the
numbers and types of microorganisms
that could affect product quality and
consumer health, and 2) must ensure
that microorganisms introduced
during normal product use will also
not affect the product quality and
consumer health.
Manufacturers are responsible
for the microbiological quality
of their products, which can be
confirmed as defined above by
performing two series of tests:
Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media.
Vol. 134, No. 9 | September 2019 Did you register yet? beautyaccelerate.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 47
Microbiology Testing
In Europe, the ISO 17516:2014 norm provides
qualitative and quantitative microbiological limits.2
Special care must be taken both with products
used in, on or around the eye area and mucous
membranes, and with products intended for use on
children under three years of age. Products should
be free from E. coli, S. aureus, P. aeruginosa and
C. albicans in 1 g or 1 mL samplings of the product
(see Table 1).
ISO Cosmetics–Microbiology norms are used for
enumeration and specific detection as follows:
Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019 Did you register yet? beautyaccelerate.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 49
Cutech is now a member of the Symrise Group: Advanced screening for skin
and hair, based on proprietary in vitro and ex vivo testing models.
You can assess the efficacy and investigate the mechanism of action
of your ingredients and formulations.
We provide evidence to your claims, from anti-aging, exposome protection,
sebum and fat management to modulation of pigmentation and hair growth.
in the USP Chapter 51 Antimicrobial Effective- expiration date or shelf-life, and, ideally, once
ness Testing (or CT). Both describe the assay in after being opened, which sets the Period After
a similar fashion but the acceptance criteria vary Opening (PAO) limit.
(see Figure 1). Due to the wide variety of cosmetics, there is
Compliance with the acceptance criteria no standard test protocol and the study design
demonstrates that the cosmetic product has is determined for a given product after consider-
an efficient preservation system. If the results ing its normal foreseeable conditions of storage
are non-compliant, the formulation requires and use. In most cases, there is no history of the
adjustments and must be validated again before product being manufactured and stored in real
proceeding to an additional CT. conditions for months or years, and accelerated
stability studies are performed, e.g., specific
Product Stability temperature, hygrometry, light and duration
Once a formulation is finalized and validated, conditions, to predict long-term stability, includ-
it is important to assess its stability. The goal is ing shelf-life, safety and efficacy.
to ensure the new cosmetic product meets the Stability studies take a significant amount
intended microbiological, physical and chemical of time (5+ months). It is therefore good to per-
quality standards, along with functionality and form them as early as possible since the results
aesthetics, when stored under appropriate condi- could impact the product’s launch date. This is
tions as well as during transport and handling. A particularly true if the results are not satisfac-
change in the product properties can affect not tory, in which case the formulation will likely
only its quality but also consumer safety. Stabil- need to be adjusted. This also means going back
ity studies take a significant amount of time and to step 1 with a validation of the new formula-
planning is of the essence. The earlier it can be tion, new CT and new stability studies. When
done, the better. the results are poor, it is also beneficial to find
Stability studies are carried out on the product out why before proceeding further and commit-
in bulk and in its commercial container. These will ting to other studies, which can waste time and
determine the stability of the characteristics of the money. Finally, stability studies are performed
product—color, consistency, texture, pH, interac- with the product in its commercial packaging.
tion with the container, etc. They also determine If the packaging changes, the stability studies
if the product will remain safe for consumers for must be performed again, this time with the
a period of time unopened, which establishes the new packaging.
The European
Regulation requires the
results of these studies
and information about
the expiration date or
PAO to be included
on the packaging. The
FDA requires products
to be safe for human
Figure 1. Preservative efficacy test health and, as noted, any
change in the product's
tions requiring cosmetics to have specific shelf lives 2. ISO 17516:2014. (2014). Retrieved from https://www.iso.
org/standard/59938.html
or expiration dates on their labels.
3. Microbiological Examination of Nonsterile Products:
However, manufacturers are responsible for Microbial Enumeration Tests. Retrieved from https://www.
ensuring their products are safe—the FDA considers usp.org/sites/default/files/usp/document/harmonization/
the determination of a product’s shelf life to be part gen-method/q05b_pf_ira_33_2_2007.pdf
of the manufacturer’s responsibility. This process 4. Microbiological Examination of Nonsterile Products: Tests
for Specified Microorganisms. Retrieved from https://www.
starts with a CT followed by stability studies of an usp.org/sites/default/files/usp/document/harmonization/
unopened product, then, ideally, of an opened prod- gen-method/q05a_pf_ira_34_6_2008.pdf
uct. If the CT results comply with the acceptance 5. Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act. Retrieved from
https://www.fda.gov/regulatoryinformation/lawsenforced-
criteria, the process can continue with the stability
byfda/federalfooddrugandcosmeticactfdcact/default.htm
studies.
To minimize time, stability studies of the opened
and unopened product can be performed in parallel
with the understanding that negative results on the
unopened product would automatically invalidate
the studies on the open product and these studies
Need to catch up?
would cease. Finally, it is recommended to confirm
Check out Page 20 in our May digital
the effectiveness of the preservative system with a magazine for part 2 of this series.
second challenge test after the stability studies are
completed (see Figure 2).
Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019 Did you register yet? beautyaccelerate.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 53
HALLSTAR’S SUNSCREEN
TESTING PLATFORM
IS MORE SCIENCE THAN ART
U
Photo courtesy of Hallstar
nderlying the increasing rather than the total weight of paint piled on
debate among photo- the wall. Therefore, if a testing method cannot
protection chemists, guarantee a reproducible level of thickness, the
regulatory bodies and results can vary widely. Significantly, the most
end consumers around common testing devices prescribe the amount
the effectiveness and of sunscreen used, not its thickness.
safety of sunscreen ingredients is the assumption Further, common sunscreen testing
that in vitro testing for sun care is accurate and platforms use a substrate that has been pur-
undifferentiated among the world’s development posely roughened to mimic human skin – but
laboratories. In fact, this is not the case. human skin is a complex structure that is
Sunscreen works by “hiding our skin” from not easily reproduced. Instead of mirroring
the sun’s UV radiation. It is common sense that a human skin, the roughened testing substrates
sunscreen’s hiding power is dependent on cover- make accurately quantifying sunscreen film
age thickness. If you have ever attempted to paint thickness impossible.
a wall, you can appreciate that paint’s power to Many have attempted to create more reliable
hide is related to consistent coverage thickness alternatives for sunscreen testing. One labora-
Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019 Did you register yet? beautyaccelerate.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 55
KEY POINTS
• Sunscreen developers are faced with
fast-moving trends, environmental
considerations and regulatory hurdles.
Formulating Forum
Nicola Lionetti
ISPE S.r.l., Milan
56 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
S unscreens have shown very fast develop-
ment in the last 40 years, driven by a
series of emerging needs. At the beginning
of this period, the attention was focused
only on UVB radiation, which was
considered the key factor responsible for
immediate and evident skin damage. After that, scientists realized
that both UVB and UVA are jointly responsible for biological dam-
age. The negative effects of UVA radiation tend to accumulate over
time and their mischief is revealed after many Parallel to formulation developments is also the
years. Moreover, UVA radiation is the main request for more efficient and reliable efficacy
concomitant cause of skin photosensitization tests, going more deeply into the research.
and phototoxicity.1
The need to combat these effects led to the
Wide Protection and
formulation of multi-efficient products that Consumer Habits
offered several benefits: UVB and UVA protec- Between 2006 and mid-2013, the attention
tion, water resistance, mildness for babies and of cosmetic companies was focused at first on
applicability to wet skin without affecting the guaranteeing the right balance between UVB
protection value. The number of consumers who and UVA protection, following the Recommen-
use sunscreen products before sun exposure dation of 2006/647/EC. Secondly, the new task
has, luckily, dramatically increased in recent was to protect the skin when taking into account
years, along with the request for more personal- the additional potential damage caused, accord-
ized products.2 ing to the literature, by infrared (IR)4-6 and
In addition, the formulator is faced with not blue light7, 8 radiation. Numerous actives were
only varying regulations covering the use and consequently developed (or re-invented) in order
commercialization of sunscreen products,3 but to reach adequately wide protection.
also, more recently, new hurdles stemming from The main functionality required for efficient
ethical, toxicological and environmental issues. protection against IR radiation is antioxidant/
Figure 1. Transmission of HEVL through market sunscreens with various SPF levels11
Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019 Did you register yet? beautyaccelerate.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 57
shield the skin against not only UV, but also blue
light has been studied. Here, damage caused by
blue light was tested in an in vitro model based
on β-carotene.12
Meanwhile, “perfect” protection in the
full UV range is sought. The ideal sunscreen
should protect skin as well as clothing does,
which provides uniform, full UV protection or
spectral homeostasis.13 Indeed, efforts to improve
UVA protection and reach the ultimate goal of
spectral homeostasis have been tremendously
successful.14 Most recent is the launch of the
UV filter (for Europe) tris-biphenyl triazine—a
water dispersion of nano-size particles with-
claims to cover in the 320-340 nm range, which
usually is not well covered by standard UVB and
UVA filters. (For more on this narrow range,
see Chandler on Page DM1, i.e., Page 1 of the
digital magazine).
anti-free radical capacity9 and, secondarily, the The ideal sunscreen providing spectral
capacity to easily dissipate the heat generated on homeostasis would attenuate UV radiation,
the skin surface by sun rays. In this case, one of visible light and IR without changing the qual-
the most efficient ingredients described is boron ity of the radiation spectrum received by the
nitride.10 The most recent efficacy evaluations skin—i.e., without selectively removing UVB or
for these new and complex formulations range visible radiation.
from in vivo tests—to evaluate qualitatively or In relation, many companies have launched
quantitatively the skin microcirculation, rash special products that take new consumer
and skin temperature—to new in vitro tests for demands into consideration. The most recent
measurements of oxidative stress markers. examples can work under all conditions:
On the other side, for good High Energy 1. On wet skin; certain polymers make it
Visible Light (HEVL) protection, efficacy pos- possible to formulate sunscreens capable of
sibilities are quite similar to those in the UV retaining the same dry-skin tested SPF when
region. The use of antioxidant/antiradical agents applied to wet skin. This is possible through
is always accepted and some companies claim the use of polymers such as bis-octyldodecyl
the use of a sort of “HEVL filters.” In practice, dimer dilinoleate/propanediol copolymer and
inorganic or organic UV filters such as methy- VA/butyl maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymer,
lene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol which also prevent whitening upon application
(MBBT) are able to perform this functionality. to wet skin.
The use of titanium dioxide with the correct par- 2. With sand and rub resistance; w/o
ticle size and/or with the right coating agent also emulsions rich in film-forming polymers such
can guarantee a significant reduction in HEVL; as acrylates and silicone polymers not only
see Figure 1 for more on HEVL. This ability of enhance water resistance, but also help to
both titanium dioxide and MBBT to effectively detach sand from the skin. The use of lipid-
alcoholic systems is preferred since the absence
of emulsifiers and water allows the sand to
easily brush off.
Formulators are adopting more readily 3. With reduced staining effects; most
biodegradable options and utilizing biobased UV filters demonstrate this adverse side effect:
ingredients to lower environmental persistence clothes that come into contact with them
and to support natural claims. become “permanently” yellowish. Inorganic UV
filters could be a solution to this problem but
another strategy is to avoid using filters contain-
Source: INOLEX ing a benzophenone group (see Figure 2).
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Today, sustainability,
renewability and low
environmental impact
play an increasingly
relevant role in pushing
scientific frontiers.
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INCI % w/w
PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate 2.0-6.0
Dibutyl Adipate and/or Diisopropyl Sebacate
and/or Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/
Dicaprate 5.0-10.0
Isononyl Isononanoate and/or
Diethylhexyl Carbonate 15.0-20.0
Preservative qs
Antioxidant qs
Titanium Dioxide (Nano)*, Coated 15.0-25.0
Zinc Oxide (Nano)*, Coated 10.0-20.0
Magnesium Sulfate 0.5
Water (aqua) to 100.0
Chelating Agent qs
Alcohol Denat. 3.0-7.0
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10/15/19
Register today
beautyaccelerate.com
These all-new polyurethane resins use gel polish chemistries to add toughness and
durability to long-lasting nail polishes, without the usual obstacles. With LumiSet™
resins, there is:
KEY POINTS
• The sunscreen market is trending toward
higher SPF levels, but these formulas tend
to be more difficult to preserve.
Preserve
and Protect
T
Shielding the Sunscreen Umbrella
HYDRATION +62%
WRINKLES -46%
DELIVERY
+51%
To gain a deeper understanding of these filter combinations, but in two different formula
dynamics, several high-SPF formulations based matrices: “Sun Lotion SPF 30” (see Formula 2)
on organic, mineral and/or both types of sun- and “Sun Gel Cream SPF 30” (see Formula 3),
screens were challenged-tested for preservative were tested.
efficacy. A variety of approved preservatives and Challenge test: The challenge test utilized
multifunctional ingredients were incorporated for Formulas 1-3 was based on a germ count
to find the optimal combination for broad- reduction with a semi-quantitative evaluation
spectrum preservation in high-SPF systems. (see Germ Count Reduction Test sidebar).
These results can be roughly compared with
Materials and Methods commonly used compendial test methods found
Mixed sunscreen formulas: In the present in the industry, such as ISO 11930, Ph.Eur,
work, a challenge test was conducted on an o/w USP, etc.6
sunscreen emulsion, “Sun Lotion Dry Feeling,” Mineral sunscreen formula and challenge
with three estimated SPF levels: 15, 30 and 50. test: A fourth w/o formulation, “High-SPF
These incorporated globally approved organic Inorganic Sunscreen,” based entirely on mineral
filters at various levels in the same formula sunscreens (see Formula 4) also was evaluated
matrix (see Formula 1). but in this case via an internala multi-challenge
Similarly, two sunscreen formulations based
on the same ratio of organic and mineral UV a
schülke Test Method SM-021, KOKO Test
Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019 Did you register yet? beautyaccelerate.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 75
Formula 3. Sun Gel Cream SPF 30* was chosen as another broad-spectrum
preservative alternative based on a long
chain glycol enhanced with ethylhexylglyc-
INCI Function %w/w erin. Finally, a commonly used chelating
A. Water (aqua) Solvent qs 100.00 agent was chosen to help enhance the
Tetrasodium EDTA Chelating Agent qs microbial protection.
Glycerin Humectant 5.00
Galactoarabinan Stabilizer 0.25 Results and Conclusions
A1. Titanium Dioxide (and) Silica UVA/UVB Filter 3.00 Figures 2-11 (see Pages DM25-29)
B. Octocrylene UVB Filter 10.00 show the challenge test results based on
Avobenzone UVA Filter 4.00 the germ count reduction method. Table 2
Octisalate UVB Filter 5.00 on Page DM30 provides the results from
Methoxyphenyl Triazine UVA/UVB Filter 1.00 the multi-challenge testa. While it may
Ethylhexyl Triazine UVB Filter 1.00 seem that formulations having a higher
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Emollient 3.00 SPF would require higher amounts of
C. C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Emollient 2.00 preservatives—since, due to their low
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate water solubility, the preservatives may not
Crosspolymer (1) Thickener 0.30 be available in the microbial-susceptible
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate water phase—this was not the case. In fact,
Crosspolymer (2) Thickener 0.10 the presence of less water and higher oil
D. Sodium Hydroxyde pH Adjuster 0.95 content in formulas had the added effect of
Preservative/ Multifunctional Antimicrobial qs reducing microbiological susceptibility.
With Formulas 1-3, a comprehensive
*estimated value; based on UV filters approved in EU, AUS, ASEAN, Mercosur challenge testing was made using an
in-house germ count reduction test that, as
Each of the samples is inoculated in the beginning and streaked on agar plates once a week after 7, 14, 21 and 28 days
on a tryptone-soya-agar (TSA), for bacteria, and sabouraud-dextrose-sugar (SA), for yeasts and molds. After 3 days of
inoculation at 25°C, the microbial growth of the streak cultures is evaluated. The evaluation is made on the basis of semi-
quantitative assessment of the microbial growth of the streaks.
– = free of growth ++ = moderate growth
The microbial growth is classified in bacteria (B), yeasts (Y)
+ = slight growth +++ = heavy growth
and molds (M).
http://www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/newsletter
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KoKo–Test SM 021
Multi-challenge Test 25 g of each material to be tested
In this testa, a mixture of bacteria, yeasts
and molds are inoculated 6 times (once without with x%
weekly) into the test material, with the preservative preservative
goal of keeping the test material germ-free
for the duration of the test. The inoculum
contains pathogenic microorganisms as
2 days exposure time streak (see below) as sterility control
germs, which are well-known to cause
product spoilage. All species must be
Germ Spectrum
cultivated separately and mixed directly
before the addition, to ensure a constant Gram-positive Bacteria
composition and germ count of the Kocuria rhizophila Staphylococcus aureus
inoculum. It germ count is approximately Gram-negative Bacteria
107-8 CFU/mL, which equates to a germ
Enterobacter gergoviae Escherichia coli
count of approximately 105 CFU/mL of each
organism in the sample. Klebsiella pneumoniae Pseudomonas aeruginosa
Pseudomonas fluorescens Pseudomonas putida
A sample can be called well-preserved
Molds
according to criteria A if a period of 6
weeks passes under the above described Aspergillus brasiliensis
laboratory conditions and without microbial Penicillium pinophilum
growth on the test batches. No microbial Yeasts
growth should be observed at any point
Candida albicans
in the test, up to and including after the
sixth inoculation. The many years this Periodic Microbiological Preservation Test
test has been used have shown it to be Weekly inoculation with 0.1 mL mixed suspension
predictive of the microbiological stability 6 weeks = 6 inoculation cycles (titre 107-108 CFU/mL)
of 30 months; the recommended time for
cosmetic products.
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Figure 2. Germ count test results for Sun Lotion Dry Feeling SPF 15 (estimated) without
chelating agent
Figure 3. Germ count test results for Sun Lotion Dry Feeling SPF 15 (estimated) with chelating agent
Figure 5. Germ count test results for Sun Lotion Dry Feeling SPF 30 (estimated) with
chelating agent
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Figure 6. Germ count test results for Sun Lotion Dry Feeling SPF 50 (estimated) without chelating agent
Figure 7. Germ count test results for Sun Lotion Dry Feeling SPF 50 (estimated) with
chelating agent
Figure 9. Germ count test results for Sun Lotion SPF 30 (estimated) with chelating agent
Vol. 134, No. 8 | September 2019 Did you register yet? beautyaccelerate.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | DM28
Figure 10. Germ count test results for Sun Gel Cream SPF 30 (estimated) without chelating agent
Figure 11. Germ count test results for Sun Gel Cream SPF 30 (estimated) with chelating agent
*estimated
cosmetics formulating,
research, trends and more. Watch and Listen Now! www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/multimedia/
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WATERPROOF MASCARA
(schulke)
A. Water (aqua) 5.05% w/w
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate 0.50
Triethanolamine 0.50
Propylene Glycol 0.40
B. Isododecane (Permethyl 99A, Presperse, Inc.) qs to 100.00
Nylon-12 (Orgasol 2002 D Nat Cos, Vantage Specialty
Ingredients) 2.00
Stearic Acid 2.00
VP/Eicosene Copolymer (Ganex V-220, Ashland LLC) 5.00
Cyclomethicone (and) Quaternium-18 Hectorite (Bentone
Gel in Cyclomethicone, Clariant Int., Ltd.) 15.00
Tocopherol Acetate 0.50
Cyclohexasiloxane (and) Cyclopentasiloxane (Dow Corning
345 Fluid, Dow Corning Corp.) 2.00
Dimethicone (and) Trimethylsiloxysilicate (Dow Corning 593
Fluid, Dow Corning Corp.) 1.50
Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax 6.00
Ceresin 3.00
Paraffin 3.50
Polyethylene 2.50
Beeswax 1.75
Magnesium Carbonate 2.00
C. Dimethicone (and) Trimethylsiloxysilicate (and) Iron Oxides
(Black Iron Oxide Dispersion in Dimethicone (and)
Trimethylsiloxysilicate, IFC Solutions) 18.00
D. Preservatives qs
Procedure: Weigh water and gums in a suitable vessel and mix until completely
hydrated. Add remaining A and mix until completely uniform. In a separate ves-
sel, weigh B and begin heating to 75-80°C. Mix until all waxes are melted and
phase is uniform. Add C to B and mix until uniform. Continue mixing while heating
A to 70-75°C. When both phases are at temperature, slowly add A to BC with
continuous mixing. Mix for 15 min. Begin cooling, switching to side-wiping agita-
tor when batch becomes too heavy. Cool batch to 25-30°C. Add D and stir until
homogenous. Store in airtight containers until ready for filling.
CREAMY METALLIC EYE SHADOW Isononyl Isononanoate (and) Polybutene (and) Pentaerythrityl
Tetraisostearyl Alcohol (proposed) (Covaclear, Sensient
(Seppic) Cosmetic Technologies) 53.80
A. Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil 2.00% w/w 1,2-Hexanediol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (SymDiol 68,
Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline 1.00 Symrise AG) 0.50
Dipentaerythrityl Pentaisononanoate 12.00 Trideceth-9 (and) PEG-5 Isononanoate (and) Water (aqua)
B. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00 (SymMollient W/S, Symrise AG) 0.10
Triethanolamine 0.20 Water (aqua) (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Angelica Polymorpha
C. Titanium Dioxide 2.50 Sinensis Root Extract (Actipone Angelica Root (Dang Gui),
Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer 0.50 Symrise AG) 0.10
Potassium Aluminum Silicate (and) Titanium Dioxide 100.00
(Candurin Silver Lustre, Merck KGaA) 5.00 Procedure: Mix A in a mixer. Separately mix B. Add B to A at low stirring with a blend-
Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide (Timiron MP 1005 Super Silk, er for 2 min in order to obtain a fine powder; the liquid phase must be absorbed.
EMD Chemicals Inc.-RONA Cosmetic Business Unit) 1.00
Iron Oxides 77499 (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Mica (Mica
Black, EMD Chemicals Inc.-RONA Cosmetic Business Unit) 1.00 WARMING LIP GLOSS
Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate (and) Silica (and) Titanium
Dioxide (and) Tin Oxide (Ronastar Noble Sparks, Merck (Vantage Specialty Ingredients)
KGaA) 1.25
D. Polyacrylate-X (proposed) (and) Isohexadecane (and) This is a low-viscosity blend that moisturizes and adds
Polysorbate 60 (Simulgel SMS 88, Seppic) 3.00 shine to lips with a warming sensation.
E. Xylityl Polyglucoside (and) Anhydroxylitol (and) Xylitol A. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene 58.00% w/w
(Aquaxyl, Seppic) 3.00 Tridecyl Trimellitate 35.00
Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (euxyl PE 9010, Vanillyl Butyl Ether (Hotact VBE, Vantage Specialty
schulke) 1.00 Ingredients) 0.25
Procedure: In a vessel, combine A and heat to 70°C. In the main tank, combine B B. PEG-4 Diheptanoate 6.55
and heat to 70°C. Add C in order to B while stirring. Add D to BC and stir until Propylparaben 0.20
the gel is smooth. Add A to batch and mix well. Start cooling and at 35°C, add 100.00
E, mixing until homogeneous. Procedure: Mix A at RT. Mix B and heat to 65°C. Mix until clear and uniform. Add B
to A with moderate speed mixing. Pour into suitable containers.
LIP DUST
(Symrise AG)
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The
The Definitive
Definitive Peer-Reviewed
Peer-Reviewed
Cosmetic
Cosmetic Science
Science Resource
Resource Grant Industries
1
info@grantinc.com
September 2019 | www.grantinc.com
Volume 134, number 8
Hallstar
54
www.hallstar.com
Acme Hardesty Co., Inc. (p. 55)
29
sales@acme-hardesty.com
www.acme-hardesty.com
Ikeda Corp.
27
info@ikeda-america.com
Arista Industries, Inc.
30 www.ikeda-corp.co.jp
info@aristaindustries.com
www.aristaindustries.com
Lipotec, LLC
73
salesoffice@lipotec.com
Ashland Specialty Ingredients
3 www.lipotec.com
www.ashland.com
LipoTrue
Beauty Accelerate 77
59 info@lipotrue.com
beautyaccelerate@allured.com
www.lipotrue.com
www.beautyaccelerate.com
(p. 61, 63, 64, 65)
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics
21
info@lucasmeyercosmetics.com
Berjé, Inc. Symrise
C3 www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com 51
berje@berjeinc.com marco.massironi@cutech.it
www.berjeinc.com www.symselect.com/cutech
Mibelle AG Biochemistry
7
info@mibellebiochemistry.com
Bio-Botanica, Inc.
C2 www.mibellebiochemistry.com Sytheon Ltd.
www.bio-botanica.com 23
info@sytheonltd.com
www.sytheonltd.com
Campo Research Pte Ltd. MilliporeSigma
25
8 sigmaaldrich.com/chromolith
sales@campo-research.com
Vevy Europe SpA
www.campo-research.com 72
info@vevy.com
(p. 9) RCTS, Inc. www.vevy.com
53
mrozen@rctslabs.com
www.rctslabs.com
Contipro Voyant Beauty
71 C4
www.contipro.com info@voyantbeauty.com
Reed Exhibitions/in-cosmetics www.voyantbeauty.com
79
North America
Dymax Oligomers & Coatings www.northamerica.in-cosmetics.
67
www.dymax-oc.com/lumised com Wacker Chemie AG
11
www.wacker.com
Evonik Silab
5 49
personal-care@evonik.com silab@silab.fr Welch Holme & Clark Co., Inc.
www.elements-of-care.com 28
www.silab.fr www.welch-holme-clark.com
Visit us at CASCC, booth #269 to learn more about fast and flexible innovation.”