PINT-SIZED PANTHER GERMAN GROSSTRAKTOR LAST BRITISH TW

TWO-MAN
AN TAN
TANK
Tamiya 1:48 Panther Conversion THINK TANK IMA’s 1:35 Tank, Light, Mk.IV

Issue 157 May 2019

www.modelmilitary.com

OPERATION
DAGUET Tiger Models’ 1:35 AMX-10RC
May2019 / £4.75 / Issue 157

INSIDE: 1:35 Marder III Ausf. M ■ 1:35 M19A1 SPAAG ■ 1:35 Morser Karl
■ 1:35 A9 Cruiser Tank ■ 1:35 M6 GMC WC-55 ■ and more...
Contents - Issue 157 May 2019
REGULARS
p 4 NEWS
What’s new in the world of military
12 modelling

p 56 BOOKS
New model and history related titles

p 58 FIGURES
All the latest in figure modelling

p 60 1:48 SCALE
News and new releases in 1:48 scale

p 65 NEXT ISSUE
What to look forward to next time

p 66 LAST POST
Australian Army protected mobility
vehicles

FEATURES
p 6 THINK TANK
50 Grosstraktor by John Prigent

p 10 PREVIEW
Bronco 1:35 M119A1

p 12 OPERATION DAGUET Part One

Tiger Model 1:35 AMX-10RC by
Kamil Feliks Sztarbala

p 24 PREVIEW
Zvezda 1:35 Panzer IV Ausf. E

p 26 LAST BRITISH TWO-MAN TANK

IMA 1:35 Vickers Mk.IV by
Mark Bannerman

p 36 PREVIEW
Gecko 1:35 A9 Cruiser Tank

p 38 PINT SIZED PANTHER

Tamiya 1:35 Tamiya 1:48 Panther G
by John Bonanni

p 48 PREVIEW
Italeri 1:35 M6 GMC WC-55
38
p 50 DACIAN
ACIAN WARRIOR
Stormtroopers 1:9 Dacian Warrior,
2nd Century AD by Adrian Hopwood

© Doolittle Media Ltd 2019

Tel: (UK) 01525 222573
Email: enquiries@doolittlemedia.com
Address: Doolittle Media Ltd., Doolittle Mill,
Doolittle Lane, Totternhoe, Bedfordshire, LU6 1QX, UK
Model Military International is published monthly by
Doolittle Media Ltd. Reproduction in part or whole of
any text, photograph or illustration without written
permission from the publisher is strictly prohibited.
While due care is taken to ensure the contents of Model
Military International is accurate, the publishers and
printers cannot accept liability for errors or omissions.
ISSN 1749-8864

May 2019 - Model Military International 3

 Newsline - May 2019
Tamiya 1:35 Marder III Ausf. M Normandy Front ■ Kit No. 35364
MARDER
T
UPDATED
he Marder III M was the
last of the Marder III
family and was based
on the Geschützwagen
38(t) Ausf. M, a purpose-designed
vehicle for self-propelled gun use,
again armed with the 75 mm PaK
40 anti-tank gun.
This model was a significant
improvement over previous
models, with its lower silhouette,
sloped armour and much more
functional fighting compartment.
In this variant, the engine was
moved from the rear to the middle
between driver and the rest of the
crew. Because there was no engine
in the rear, the gun and the crew
did not have to sit on top of the
engine deck as in previous models.
The fighting compartment could be
lowered down to the bottom floor
level where the engine used to be,
which decreased crew exposure
and visibility.
Unlike the previous two Marder
IIIs, the fighting compartment was
closed at the rear, protecting the
crew up to their midsection. It
stayed open-topped.
The Marder III Ausf. M
could carry only 27 rounds of
ammunition. The machine gun
port at the front was eliminated
in the Ausf. M in favour of an MG
34 or MG 42 carried by the crew.
In the previous two models, the
Commander served as a gunner.
However, in the Ausf. M, the radio
man moved to the rear, with the
Commander and gunner, to serve
as a loader. Combat effectiveness
increased because the vehicle
commander was freed from
manning the gun.
The full name of the Ausf. M
4 Model Military International - May 2019
was Panzerjäger 38(t) mit 7.5 cm
PaK 40/3 Ausf. M, Sd.Kfz. 138 . It
was the variant that was produced
in the largest numbers, with 942
vehicles built in two series from
May 1943 to May 1944.
Tamiya’s 1:35 scale Marder III
Ausf. M was released in 2002 to
great acclaim. A number of the
running gear parts were sourced
from their 2001 Marder III release
(Kit No. 35248).
Tamiya has now upgraded
their Marder III Ausf. M to include
link-and-length tracks plus four
additional figures.
Tamiya’s 1:35 scale Marder III
Ausf. M now comprises 264 parts
in dark yellow plastic, one photo-
etched fret, four polythene caps
and markings for two vehicles on
the Normandy front.
17 years has done little to dim
the light of this great little kit. The
moulding is all you would expect
from Tamiya and the addition of
the two new sprues is a genuine
improvement.
The hull is broken down as a flat
pack with separate lower, side,
front and rear sections.
The fighting compartment is
well details with gun breech, ammo
containers and other interior
details being well represented.
The gun may traverse and elevate
when the model is complete thanks
to the use of polythene caps.
The link-and-length tracks are
in Tamiya’s usual recent style,
with long runs for the bottom
and the top – the top run sagging
realistically between return rollers
– and a combination of short
sections and individual links to
wrap around the drive sprockets
MMI Newsdesk, Doolittle Mill, Doolittle Lane,
Totternhoe, Bedfordshire, LU6 1QX, UK
Tel:01525 222573 Fax:01525 222574
Email:editor@modelmilitary.com
Brett Green takes
a look at the
resurrected and The upper hull.
improved Tamiya
Marder III Ausf. M,
now with link and
length tracks and The lower hull is broken down as a flat pack
more crew figures. with separate lower, side, front and rear
sections.
and idler wheels. Track detail is
crisp inside and out. I have no
reason to expect that these will not
be fast and easy to assemble too,
Detail parts still look good.
New link and length tracks and drive
based on my recent experiences sprockets are included.
with Tamiya link-and-length tracks.
The four additional figures make
up the balance of the crew. One
slightly stiff standing figure was
included in the original release,
but these four new guys feature
the more natural poses and better Individual links are supplied to wrap around
detail of Tamiya’s more recent the sprockets and idler wheels.
crew figure efforts. They will look
great with nothing more than
careful painting.
A small, thin and very flexible
photo-etched fret supplies the
perforated heat shield for the
exhaust.
CONCLUSION Four brand new figures are also in the box,
I somehow missed out on building up to Tamiya’s very high standards.
this kit when it was first released.
It is a fantastic example of
Tamiya’s ability to produce a well-
detailed kit that is also fast and
easy to build.
Tamiya’s 1:35 scale Marder III M
sits right in that sweet spot, and
the 17 year old sprues stand up
well to scrutiny in 2019.
The addition of the link and Very thin photo-etched exhaust shield.
length tracks and four additional
figures makes this great little kit
even better.
I don’t think I will wait another 17
years to build this one!
Highly Recommended. ■
Thanks to Tamiya Japan for the
sample www.tamiya.com
Tamiya kits are distributed in
the UK by The Hobby Company
Limited www.hobbyco.net
The kit’s modest decal sheet.
 Think Tank - German Grosstraktor

Here is a rare shot of the Daimler Benz Grosstraktor in service – most photos show these

CODENAME
beasts after retirement and use as ‘Barrack Monuments’. Although not of a high quality
it does show the bow MG port and DB tracks, and that the Panzer beret was already in
use. It also shows a one-colour scheme, presumably Reichswehr grey. It was probably
taken after the return from Russia, but might show the tank before it was sent there.

‘HEAVY TRACTOR’
John Prigent describes the development and assessment of the
interwar Daimler-Benz, Krupp and Rheinmetall Grosstraktors

I
n 1926 the German Government was
beginning to think about rearmament and
decided to start on a project codenamed
‘Armeewagen 20’, an innocuous designation
meaning ‘army vehicle 20’. The Inspectorate
of Weapons and Devices decided to make a
wooden model of a 15 tonne vehicle about 6
metres long and 2.4 wide, mounting a 7.5 cm
gun in a rotating turret, so that dimensions,
layout and equipment could be considered.
Krupp was asked to produce a wooden model of
a suitable gun for it.
EARLY CONTRACTS
By early 1927 things were moving ahead on
this project. Krupp was given a contract to
produce two tanks and meetings were held to
finalise design requirements. Rheinmetall and
Daimler-Benz were each given contracts at
about the same time for two tanks, and four
extra turrets were contracted from Krupp to go
on their competitors’ tanks. All were to be ready
by summer 1928, and the type was now being
officially described as ‘Grosstraktor’ - ‘heavy
tractor’. Despite major differences in their
internal equipment all three designs look similar
with the same main turret and rear-mounted
MG turret, but are easy to tell apart from the
side. The Daimler-Benz hull has three semi-
circular mud chutes under its return rollers, and
a conspicuous elongated stiffener at the front
of each side to brace the idler; the Krupp hull
has no stiffener and its mud chutes are large
oblongs; and the Rheinmetall version has square
mud chutes with inverted-V outer mounts for the
rollers as well as a large hatch in its port side.
The Daimler-Benz Grosstraktors, numbered
41 and 42, used a modified 31.2 litre, 260 HP, 6—
cylinder aircraft engine, plus a DKW 10 PH two-
stroke auxiliary motor. They used a planetary
gearbox with band brakes and a three-speed
countershaft giving 6 forward and 2 reverse
gears. They had planetary steering gearboxes
with clutch steering and oil-pressure brakes.
Krupp’s numbers 43 and 44 had BMW water-
cooled 6-cylinder, 250 HP, 22.9 litre aircraft
engines. They had compressed-air operated
gearboxes with 6 forward and 1 reverse gears

6 Model Military International - May 2019

and also used planetary steering gearboxes
but with band brakes and pneumatic
operation.
Rheinmetall’s numbers 45 and 46 used
the same engines as Krupp. Their gearboxes
used electric transmission with 8 forward and
1 reverse gears. Their differential steering
had infinitely variable control and chain
transmission.
All of this was internal, but their
suspensions were very different though all
had 3 return rollers on each side. Daimler-
Benz used four pairs of 4-wheel bogies with
leaf springs and rubber tyres. Their tracks
were pressed-steel sheet. Krupp used six One of the DB Grosstraktors was given to 1 Pz Regt for display as soon as it had been shipped back from its
pairs of 4-wheel bogies on coil springs, plus failure in the Russian trials. It was repainted in the 1935 three-colour scheme and fitted with an MG in the
three individual wheels at the front and one bow port. Its only marking was a small number ‘42’ on the hull rear. This photo was taken on 23 August 1936.
at the rear and rubber track pads on its
links. Rheinmetall’s design used two groups
of 2 X 4 pairs of roadwheel, each group with
hydraulic shock absorbers, plus two individual
front wheels and one at the rear. The tracks
were described as ’rubber’ but I suspect them
to be similar to the Krupp ones – photographs
of the original version don’t seem to exist.
The object of all this was to produce
examples of differing designs which could
be compared, tested, and have their best
points merged into a single design for further
development. But attempts to disguise
their purpose as being prototype chassis
for mechanical excavators foundered when
Krupp pointed out that they were too light
for such use. Krupp suggested instead that
the Reichsbahn railway system might find
them useful, but didn’t suggest for what!
Security was a problem with these large
tracked chassis, with something about them
bound to leak out, so it was suggested that
all be built at Rheinmetall’s Unterluess
Here’s the other side of that monument, also photographed in august 1936 but before the marker stone had
factory and if possible tested inside the
been inscribed. Note that the bow MG actually has an internal ballmount, not just a simple flexible mount like
assembly hall there. One of each design could the Panther D. DB may have been the first to attempt a workable ballmount.
then be stripped down to a bare chassis and
fitted with dynanometers for open testing
as a heavy towing vehicle (perhaps to be
claimed as possible artillery tractors) and the
others disassembled and their parts stored
under maximum security at Kummerdorf.
This seems to have been done, because it is
known that at least one had to be rebuilt in
its armoured form in 1929.

TESTING IN RUSSIA
In June that year all the Grosstraktors
were packed in special watertight crates
and sent by sea to Leningrad, then by rail
to Kazan in Russia. They were towed from
there to the Soviet Army’s testing grounds
at Kama. Despite having all been built to
meet very detailed specifications the three
manufacturer’s versions were very different
in details and suffered numerous different
faults during testing. In fact no test runs
were made until September 1929 and only
very short ones until the next spring. This
was because planned improved parts had to
be designed and built in Germany and then
shipped to Kama for installation. It seems
that although the need for those was known
the Grosstraktors had been shipped to Russia
without waiting for them because the site at
Kama offered much greater secrecy. At a later date the Grosstraktor was ‘improved’ as a display item by fitting a dummy large-calibre weapon – or
The Daimler-Benz Grosstraktors had a was the real gun simply removed to leave only the recoil sleeve? In any event, it still has the three-colour
major problem in their planetary gears which A camouflage and gives us a detailed view of the track construction.

May 2019 - Model Military International 7

 Think Tank - German Grosstraktor

This side view shows the same Krupp

This is the Krupp Grosstraktor with a memorial dedicated to Oberstleutnant Grosstraktor, serial #43. Its unusual colour
Herbert Baumgart, former commander of a Panzerschule whose full scheme that appears to use only two of the
designation I can’t read, who was killed on the night of 7/8 September 1939 paints of the three-colour scheme.
in the invasion of Poland. Although at this angle it looks very much like the
DB tank its tracks are very different, and the bow MG mount differs as well.

This Rheinmetall tank was ‘upgraded’ for display by the addition of a 3.7 cm co-ax gun. Needless The other side of the Rheinmetall version, again with the co-ax 3.7 cm.
to say there is no record of this being done during the trials in Russia, so we have to assume that
it was done after return to Germany. The colour scheme appears to be monochrome grey again,
and this side view shows many differences to the Krupp and DB designs.

B was never solved, as well as inadequate tracks.
In fact they were only able to run for 25 km in
1930 and 31 in 1932. After that they were left
aside, and turned into barrack monuments as
soon as they returned to Germany.
The Krupp design fared rather better, though
many changes had to be made during the tests.
It ran smoothly, but its compressor didn’t give
enough output to keep the compressed-air
steering and gear-change working properly in
Russian conditions. In 1930 that problem had
largely been solved, and new tracks, sprockets
and roadwheels were fitted and tested. 1932
brought new gearboxes, built by Alphon, and
continued testing. The two Krupp vehicles ran
for a combined total of almost 300 km until
they were sent back to Germany.
The differential steering of the Rheinmetall
tanks failed under load, and one had to be
replaced almost immediately by Cletrac steering
gear. This was so reliable that the other one
received the same replacement steering after
their return to Germany, but the original
steering cannot have been too bad because
one vehicle covered nearly 500 km at Kama
and the other over 750. But there had been
significant changes to both tanks: in 1930 the
original roadwheel arrangements were replaced
by four 4-wheel bogies on each side, and in 1932
those were replaced by six 2-wheel bogies each
side. Their ‘rubber band’ tracks (the German
description of them!) proved unsuitable with a
tendency to climb onto the sprockets and then
be thrown, so were changed in 1931 to steel-link
tracks. The Rheinmetall tanks also received the
new Alphon synchronized gearboxes that had
been fitted to the Krupp vehicles.
Apparently the Grosstraktor was supposed
to be amphibious, with 2 reversible propellers
and a theoretical swimming speed of about 5
km / h, though I haven’t found any evidence
of how important that was to the Reichswehr.
What I have found is a note about an amphibious
trial at Kama in October 1932. A Rheinmetall
Grosstraktor was taken to a nearby lake and
reversed into the water – presumably so that
its water-drive system was submerged first, but
the note gives no reason for this odd decision.
Whatever the explanation, it entered the lake
at what was described as an ‘unfavourable
angle’, filled with water and promptly sank.
Rheinmetall’s water-drive expert was drowned,
though the vehicle itself was quickly recovered.
There’s no further mention of swimming

8 Model Military International - May 2019


This is the original
appearance of a
Rheinmetall tank
without the co-axial 3.7
cm. Although the view
contains many people,
you can still see that
this one was fitted with
a frame aerial for trials
with a radio set.
experiments so one has to assume that the
amphibious requirement was quietly dropped.
FINAL ASSESSMENT
In an October 1932 meeting in Kama it was
announced that the Rheinmetall Grosstraktor
had been chosen, and Rheinmetall would receive
orders for more vehicles. General Lutz also
planned to order all turrets from Rheinmetall, so
that only a single producer would be to blame
for any defects. But it took many more months
before in August 1933 the six Grosstraktors were
loaded into their watertight crates at Kama and
sent to Leningrad by rail. From there they were
taken by Russian ships to Stettin, where the last
transport arrived on 21 September 1933. All six
were transported to the Daimler-Benz company
in Berlin Marienfelde, where the four Krupp and
A front view of the
Rheinmetall tank shows
another variation of the
bow MG’s ball mount, as
well as the very different
tracks that it used.
The Daimler Benz tank
was also ‘upgunned’ but
kept its three-colour
camouflage. The photo
was taken at the caserne
of II Abt, PzRegt 5,
Wunsdorf in April 1939.
Rheinmetall Grosstraktors were further modified,
tested and used. The Daimler-Benz ones, as
already mentioned, were relegated to use as
barrack monuments at the bases of the new
Panzer units.
The Rheinmetall and Krupp vehicles were
used by the brand-new Medium Panzer Company
in the first exercise of the equally new Panzer
Division in Munster in August 1935, together
with at least one of the Neubaufahrzeuges that
followed them into service. After that they were
also retired to use as barrack monuments. One
received a mocked-up long-barrel gun afterwards,
and another was given a dummy co-axial 3.7 cm
gun. Nothing is recorded of their eventual fates,
but it has to be assumed that they fell victim to
scrap metal drives either during the war or soon
afterwards. ■
May 2019 - Model Military International 9
KIT PREVIEW Bronco 1:35 US M19A1 Twin 40mm Gun Motor Carriage - Korean War • Kit No. CB35148
BOFORS BLASTER
T
he M24 Chaffee was
developed as a family of
vehicles with a Light Tank,
AA GMC, SP Howitzer,
Recovery/Repair etc. The M19
was the AA variant of the Chaffee
family and mounted a substantial
armament of twin Bofors 40mm
guns on a redesigned hull with the
engine moved amidships and the
open fighting compartment at the
rear. It entered service just too
late to see action in April 1945 and
production was cut at war’s end
at 285 vehicles. It first saw action
in Korea in the AA and infantry
support role where it’s devastating
firepower of twin quick firing
40mm guns were a huge asset and
put to good effect.
The M24 family / combat team
was replaced by a new family
based on the M41 light tank and the
M19 by the new M42 with its front
mounted fighting compartment
almost identical to the M19s. A few
were given as military aid to Japan
and the Netherlands with the
remainder going to National Guard
where in turn it was replaced by
the M42 Duster, of which approx.
3,700 were produced
To date, no company has
produced a kit of this rarer vehicle
that only really saw action in the
Korean War despite a number
of companies having kitted the
M24 light tank and the later
M42 Duster. Bronco was one
such company to kit the M24
Chaffee offering a number of
different boxings as an excellent
well detailed kit. Bronco has also
previously released almost all
variants of the towed ground
mount Bofors. Out of the blue in
late 2018, Bronco announced a new
kit of the M19A1 40mm GMC, which
was released shortly after.
Having built the Bronco M24
10 Model Military International - May 2019
and a few of their Bofors and other
Artillery pieces I was keen to see
what this kit was like and soon got
the chance (thanks Brett). The first
thing that struck me was the size
of the box for such a small vehicle
but found it bursting at the seams!
Detail is typical for a Bronco kit,
very complete but with a veritable
plethora of small minute parts –
beware when taken them off the
sprue.
Construction starts with the
lower hull with integral sides and
the suspension which is a near
perfect replica of the original right
down to the individual torsion bars
which in theory give you a working
suspension, if a little fragile! The
road wheel detail is excellent
being made up of six parts; as
are the multi-piece final drive
and sprockets. The idlers have all
the lightening holes opened and
separate rims. The original M24
had all steel T72E1 tracks but later
tanks had the T85E1 rubber chevron
type more suited to Piece time
soldiering. The kit offers the both
T85E1 and T72 types with the T85
being workable. These are quite
easy to assemble but take time.
Hull detail is excellent with
clear periscopes included for the
hatches and photo-etched guards.
A very nice M2 .50 cal is included
with an AA mount ammo can on
an extended pintle as frequently
seen on Korean vehicles to give
themselves ground protection.
Spare 40 mm barrels are included
along with the folded winter
driver’s windshield and a very nice
pioneer tool rack and tools. All hull
details match my photos of the real
thing but some are very fiddly.
The guns are highly detailed
and construction almost follows
the exploded parts diagrams of
the real thing! This results in a
The single upper hull moulding.
Al Bowie is
impressed
with Bronco’s
rendering
of the US
M119A1 40mm Detail parts including an impressive plastic grille.
Gun Motor
Carriage.
The lower hull tub.
near perfect gun assembly in a
well detailed turret/tub which has
sublime perforations on the floor
not normally seen in plastic. A lot
of parts go into the gun and tub
assembly but the finished product
is quite lifelike. The turret seems
pretty complete to reference right
down to the stacked radios in their
rack which match period radios. The
only thing I feel you could add is
some of the cabling for the radios
and electrics. If I have a criticism it The turret base.
is that the ammo bins that surround
the turret wall are all moulded shut
but two clips of 40mm are given for
the guns. An optional assembly in
the form of an auxiliary generator
is included but it is believed these
were fitted post Korea as a result
of battle experience.
Markings are provided for three Drive sprockets and idler wheels are exquisitely moulded.
Olive Drab examples and a single
Camouflaged example with little
detail as to where/when.
• 15th Anti-Aircraft Artillery Bn 7
Inf Div Hungnam Korea 1951 named
“Little Beaver and Dolores”
• 46th Anti-Aircraft Artillery Bn US
Army Hanua Germany 1954 named
Banhoff Betty”
• 15th Anti-Aircraft Artillery Bn The kit features individual track links.
7 Inf Div Hungnam Korea 1951
mounted with a pintle 50 cal and
named “Flak Wagon”
• “Dragon Slayer” in a MERDC
Winter Verdant Scheme with no
unit insignia
This is an awesomely detailed
kit and will give museum quality
model when completed but it is not
for the beginner unless they have a The photo-etched fret.
good mentor and lots of patience.
Highly recommended to Cold War
and Korean war armour fans. ■
Review sample provided
by Bronco Models
www.cn-bronco.com/en/
Clear sprue.
FEATURE ARTICLE Tiger Model 1:35 AMX-10RC • Kit No. 4609

AMX
PART ONE - BUILDING THE
w Tiger Models
Kamil Feliks Sztarbala builds the neger desert scene.
1:35 scale AMX-10RC as part of a lar

T
he Tiger Model AMX-10RC makes
a truly great first impression.
The plastic colour, assembly
guide layout, kit design and part
breakdown – all these features show close
similarities to the market benchmark
from Japan: Tamiya, which, along with
sharp and numerous details, promised a
straightforward build with attractive result,
even if being built straight out of the box.
However, this promise went down in
flames as soon as I started assembly, and
this is my main complaint against the kit.
I’ve built many worse and ill-fitting models
over the years, but in the case of those, it
was easy to notice from the very beginning
that each and every part would require
some serious treatment in one form or
another. In the case of the AMX-10RC from
Tiger Model, this proves to be true only
during the assembly stage, resulting in a
big disappointment.

ASSEMBLY

The plastic wheel rims

had to be sanded to
the correct diameter,
as they had originally
been designed for
the installation of the
rubber tires.

As Def wheels had been designed

for the VAB and were cast as single
pieces together with rims suitable for
this vehicle, in order to use the tires
Expecting a relaxing build, I decided to start by doing something that required attention and meticulous work, for AMX-10RC I had to drill them out,
namely improving the wheels. As I do not like to work with rubber, I went for resin replacement wheels from precisely removing the rim detail.
Def Model’s set, intended for the VAB, which included Michelin XL tires that I needed. These looked definitively
better than their vinyl counterparts supplied with the kit.

12 Model Military International - May 2019


Fortunately, both the wheels from the kit and
Def Model were of the same size, meaning
a trouble-free cross-matching. I only had to
slightly reduce the thickness of the rims.
A small problem was encountered with only two of the wheels:
the poly caps could not be plugged deep enough into the rims,
so I had to cut off the protruding parts. As usual, the golden
rule of dry-fitting before assembly proved to be correct.
May 2019 - Model Military International 13
 FEATURE ARTICLE Tiger Model 1:35 AMX-10RC • Kit No. 4609

However, sometimes even the latter can fool you! Without using any adhesive,
the fit of the hull halves appeared to be perfect, but when I put them together,
small, but annoying gaps emerged almost everywhere. I therefore had to glue
these parts little by little, squeezing each joint with clamps.

The turret required similar treatment.

Nevertheless, this didn’t mean that I could avoid filler. For this purpose,
I used medium viscosity cyano, which was applied over the chosen
edges with a toothpick.

Once it had dried, I removed the excess with a sharp scalpel blade…

With the basic shape of the hull

and turret complete, I could focus
on adding the details…
…and smoothed the edges using a fine metal file and a polishing sponge.

…which brought another disappointment: each and every part

needed laborious cleaning up. Of course, one has to clean up the
details in some manner in almost every kit, but good kits only
require removal of moulding seam remnants with a scalpel blade
or a file, which can be done quickly and easily. In this case,
almost every detail was affected by slight shift of the moulds
against each other. Furthermore, most of the parts were thicker
than they should be in in areas which needed a realistic scale
thickness, such as the edges of parts. For example, let’s take a
In this case, I also filled the gaps with cyano. Next, I shaped the assembled
look at this sight cover, whose halves only roughly fit each other.
piece using micro files and sanding bits from Hobby Elements.

14 Model Military International - May 2019

The muzzle brake was similarly affected by moulding seams, gaps The sanding bits from Hobby Elements proved to be indispensable for levelling The edges of the cover aft of the muzzle brake were thinned
and flash. the surfaces and drilling out the barrel. down. I also glued a circular piece of thin styrene sheet inside
the cover, in order to replicate the mirror installed there.
Quite a lot of work was involved in the correction of the smoke dischargers.
To remove the moulding seams, I had to remove some details. These were
restored using various styrene bits that had been created using RP Toolz
‘Punch and Die Tool Sets’ (both the standard and hexagonal).

The inclusion of a template

intended for correctly
bending the rangefinder
photo-etched cover, was a
welcome addition…

…but the fact that the

bars of the cover had
to be shortened by
nearly 2mm, wasn’t.

The PE rolling set from The

Small Shop was essential for
correctly bending the screen
of the turret basket.

At least, the remaining photo-etched bits didn’t require

any adjustment. The screens were first temporarily
attached with Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. Of course,
this glue doesn’t dissolve brass, but the softened
plastic sufficiently secures the photo-etched parts,
allowing for correct positioning of the latter. As the bending line had not been
I subsequently strengthened the joint areas by marked on the photo-etched part in
applying tiny amounts of ‘Roket Hot’ extra thin cyano any way, the shape of this detail had
from Deluxe Materials. to be determined by trial and error.

May 2019 - Model Military International 15

FEATURE ARTICLE Tiger Model 1:35 AMX-10RC • Kit No. 4609

I then decided to cut off the simplified handles, located on the engine Their remnants were removed with a scalpel blade. To polish the surface, I used a fibreglass scratch brush from Green
deck. Stuff World.

The lights were equipped with

bulbs, made from tiny tin balls.

The replacement handles were made from lengths of 0.25mm wire. Afterwards, I emphasized the
I rolled these over a length of square-shaped styrene rod. By cutting I then drilled small apertures in the hull and installed the handles, demarcation between the pressure
the rolled wire with a knife, I created a bunch of identical handles. securing them in place with tiny quantities of super glue. vessel of the fire extinguisher and its
mount, and drilled out the nozzles.

The edges of the hatch handles were enhanced using a flat
scriber from Mr. Paint.
The tools also required some attention. The shovel, for
example, was clearly too bulky, so I thinned down its edges.
The kit tools were moulded together with clamps, which were also too solid.
I could replace them with aftermarket photo-etched details, but I thought that
thinning down the plastic parts will involve a similar amount of work. I therefore
shaped the outer edges with a sharp scalpel blade and file, whilst the inner areas
were treated with micro files from Hobby Elements.

The tow cable was represented

in the kit by a length of steel
wire. As the latter was quite
elastic, I had to heat it with
flame from a cigarette lighter.
This made it more formable,
allowing me to bend it to the Next, I dealt with the rear hull
correct shape. To bend the lengths of thin styrene rod which had been used for detailing details, which, aside from the
the headlights, I had to drag them a few times along the edge of my nail. usual moulding issues, were
Once they had been attached, I additionally ‘painted’ them with Tamiya quite simplified.
Extra Thin Cement, in order to fix their shape.

The instructions recommended equipping the turret with

photo-etched stowage holders. However, those supplied
with the kit were too fragile and rather poorly shaped.

They should have featured some apertures inside, although the Instead of those, I attached the plastic
walkaround photos I had gathered didn’t allow for determining their stowage parts originally intended for a
depth and inner detail. I chose to show them by installing small circles, different version of this kit, as I had planned
which were created using a length of 0.7mm brass tubing and JLC to add more stowage myself anyway.
mitre tool.
16 Model Military International - May 2019
 The kit was ready to have some
paint applied. As usual, many
parts and sub-assemblies were
left separate for easier painting.

“ …each and every

part needed laborious
cleaning up...
”
Before I proceeded with the
aforementioned process, I
prepared the stowage. Many
photos of AMXs used during
Operation Daguet showed
sandbags placed within
the turret baskets. These
were replicated with pieces
of plastic trash bag. First,
using a soldering iron, I cut
the plastic that had been
previously bent into a few
layers, into narrow strips. Next, I added some welds crosswise,
The heated tip did not only and cut the strips into smaller pieces.
cut the plastic, but also The mini-bags were filled with pieces
welded the edges. of Magic Sculp putty.

Before the latter had fully

dried, I arranged the bags Finally, various resin
within the basket. accessories from PanzerArt
and Eureka XXL were added
into the rear turret basket.

May 2019 - Model Military International 17

FEATURE ARTICLE Tiger Model 1:35 AMX-10RC • Kit No. 4609

PAINTWORK
In accordance with French
Army regulations, vehicles
sent to the Middle East, should
have had the black and green
camouflage patches over-
painted in sand colour. Yet,
I managed to find a photo of
just one AMX-10RC finished
this way, whilst the majority of
pictures showed vehicles that
had painted sand overall and
subsequently camouflaged with
brown paint of unclear origin.
Before I began to recreate this
finish, I painted all periscopes I left this to dry for 24 hours, and then masked off the ‘glass’,
with Tamiya X-23 ‘Clear Blue’. allowing for spraying a layer of Mr.Color AVC02 ‘Previous Silver’
over the periscopes.

Afterwards, I primed the

entire vehicle with Tamiya
XF-10 ‘Flat Brown’ Only the tires were
given a priming layer of
Hataka’s black primer.

“ …vehicles sent to the Middle

East, should have had the black
and green camouflage patches
over-painted in sand colour...
”

Next, I airbrushed the kit with AK-Interactive RC060

‘Dark Yellow’ in such a way that the brown priming layer
still showed through in various nooks and crannies.

Taking advantage of the fact that

the layer formed by Real Colors
isn’t very strong before it is fully
dried, I added damage to the
paint layer on the wheel rims. For
this purpose, I used an old, stiff
brush that had been dampened
with Microscale Microsol decal
softening solution.

AK-Interactive RC046 ‘Ivory’ was sprayed as meandering streaks

over all flat surfaces. I also applied some vertical streaks to the
sides. This way I created the base colour of the vehicle.

18 Model Military International - May 2019

The base shade for the brown camouflage patches was
Mr.Hobby H406 ‘Chocolate Brown’. The pattern was based on
the kit’s painting guide and archive photos, which revealed
that every vehicle carried a more or less different scheme.

The brown patches were highlighted

with meandering streaks of heavily
diluted Hataka C308 ‘Middle Brown’.

The details were brush painted with various vinyl-

based acrylic paints. These were mainly sourced
from the Lifecolor CS20 ‘Weathered Wood’ and CS28
‘Hemp and ropes’ sets, along with a few tones from
Vallejo Model Color range and two paints from the
AK-Interactive AK3030 ‘Leather & Buckles’ set.

May 2019 - Model Military International 19

FEATURE ARTICLE Tiger Model 1:35 AMX-10RC • Kit No. 4609

I usually emphasize the details with oils or enamel products. In this case, I
chose to check how the Citadel washes that are very good for figures, would
work on the larger surfaces. I used ‘Nuln Oil’ and ‘Agrax Earthshade’, which
are almost black and brown shades, respectively. They were applied over the
surfaces that had been previously dampened with Lifecolor’s acrylic thinner.
Here and there, I also used heavily diluted Vallejo 70939 ‘Smoke’.

Although the fluids nicely gathered around the details, work on

the larger flat surfaces wasn’t a pleasant experience, even when
I added Vallejo Glaze Medium to the mixture. The washes had to
be controlled until they had fully dried, in order to avoid creating
ugly stains and spills.

The paintwork was subsequently

secured with a layer of Mr.Hobby
H103 ‘Premium Clear Flat’ varnish.

20 Model Military International - May 2019

 WEATHERING
As the vehicle did not serve long in the desert
and had freshly applied camouflage, I had to be
quite subtle in creating any wear and tear.

I limited myself to painting tiny scratches and paint chips on the chosen
edges and details that were located mainly near hatches. Vallejo’s 70861
‘Glossy Black’ and 70939 ‘Smoke’, mixed at different ratios, were used.

The dirt, however, could be more prominent. I started by airbrushing AK-Interactive AK042 ‘European Earth’ and A.MIG-3007 ‘Dark
Earth’ pigments. To apply the powders with an airbrush, they have to be mixed with industrial alcohol. Such mixture dries quickly once
applied, and the pigments doesn’t firmly hold the surface. Their excess can therefore be easily removed with a soft bristled brush.

The dried mud splashes were created using the weathering pastes from Mr.Hobby. These products behave quite
similarly to Tamiya Weathering Sticks, but the latter are water-soluble, whilst the former are enamel-based,
although they’re something entirely different than ‘Mud and Splashes’ products from Ammo MIG. Mr.Hobby’s
product is a more sticky substance with a very fine pigment. In this case, I mixed it with a small amount of ABT113
‘Fast Dry Thinner’ from 502 Abteilung and blew it onto the kit from a cotton bud, using an airbrush.
WP01 ‘Mud Brown’, WP04 ‘Mud Yellow’ and WP05 ‘Mud Red’ pastes were applied alternately in
different quantities. As these products can be diluted with white spirit, I could easily remove the
excess paste with a dampened brush, create accumulations in various areas, or add rain marks to
the already dried mud.

The archive photos revealed quite evident stains and spills near the To give some variety to the effect, I rolled a cotton bud that had been Afterwards, I sprayed some misted applications of strongly diluted
fuel filler points. To replicate these, I first airbrushed a tiny quantity slightly dampened with white spirit, over the surface. AK-Interactive AK082 ‘Engine Grime’, which allowed for the
of A.MIG-1408 ‘Fresh Engine Oil’ enamel that had been diluted with enhancement of some chosen effects, and blending the others.
white spirit.

May 2019 - Model Military International 21

FEATURE ARTICLE
Modelspec
Tiger Model 1:35 AMX-10RC
Kits Used:
• Tiger Model 1:35 scale AMX-10RC – Kit
#4609
• Def Model 1:35 scale French VAB
Sagged wheel set 1-Mich. XL – Kit
#DW35068
• Royal Model 1:35 scale Tommy & Lazy
Donkey – Kit #790
• KMT 1:35 scale French Tank Crew
Daguet 1990 – Kit #35029F
Tools & Modelling Products:
• Tamiya Extra Thin Cement
• Deluxe Materials Roket Hot Cyano
• Styrene Rod, Strip & Sheet
• Copper & Lead Wires
• Griffon Model Brass Hollow Pipe
• JLC Razor Saw
• JLC Mitre Block for Circular Sections
• RP Toolz Punch and Die Tool Sets
(circular & hexagonal)
• Hobby Elements Micro Files and
Molding Flash Sander
• Green Stuff World Scratch Brushes
• The Small Shop PE Rolling Set
• Magic Sculp Epoxy Putty
• Balsa Wood
• Styrodur Foam
• Tile Adhesive
22 Model Military International - May 2019
Tiger Model 1:35 AMX-10RC • Kit No. 4609
Kit No. 4609
Paints & Finishing Products:
Primers:
• AK-Interactive AK757 & AK758; Hataka
Paints:
• AK-Interactive: Acrylics & Real Colors
• Hataka’s Orange Line
• Lifecolor acrylics
• Mr.Hobby’s Mr.Color and Aqueous Hobby
Color ranges
• Tamiya (acrylic)
• Vallejo
Mr.Hobby Clear Varnishes
Microscale Decal Solution
Abteilung 502 ABT113 Fast Dry Thinner
Citadel washes
AK-Interactive weathering products:
• AK042 European Earth
• AK082 Engine Grime
• AK8013 Asphalt
• AK8027 Dry Mud
• AK8030 Stirred Earth
Ammo-MIG weathering products:
• A.MIG-1408 Fresh Engine Oil
• A.MIG-3007 Dark Earth
Mr.Hobby Weathering Pastes:
• WP01 Mud Brown The kit was then ready
• WP04 Mud Yellow for final assembly.
• WP05 Mud Red
Vallejo 26.219 Brown Sand acrylic paste
May 2019 - Model Military International 23
KIT PREVIEW Dragon 1:35 60cm Morser ‘Karl’ Gerat 040 • Kit No. 9157
BLOCKBUSTER
T
he Karl-Great was a
heavy siege weapon
designed to destroy
large fortifications. It
was unusual in that it could move
into position by itself, although
railway transportation via specially
designed carriers was needed to
get it to where it had to be. Only
seven were built, of which six saw
combat. All of these weapons were
named after Norse mythological
characters and ‘Ziu’, as depicted
here, is a German name for Zeus,
the Norse God of War. This weapon
was deployed in the West during
the Battle of the Bulge, but ended
up in Russian hands and is now
on display at the Kubinka Russian
Armour Museum
Dragon first released this kit
back in 2003 and it was well-
received at the time. This recent
re-release contains pretty much
the same kit but now includes the
crew and an alternate lower hull.
Coming in a large sturdy box,
the kit is moulded in their familiar
grey plastic and there is no flash
present on my example. It’s size
alone makes it impressive and is
made from approximately 400
parts on 13 sprues, plus a single
metal rod that goes on the large
breech block. Alternate lower hulls
are provided, allowing you to depict
in in either transport or firing
mode. There is no etch included.
The tracks are provided in link
and length, we get a basic driver’s
compartment, and markings are
provided for ‘Ziu’ and ‘Loki’.
First impression, and
comparison to the photos that I
have, is that detail on this kit is
Alternate lower hulls.
24 Model Military International - May 2019
adequate but simplified. There are
some good details, such as the
treadplate, finely molded handrails
and driver’s compartment, but
that is offset by the basic items
such as poorly detailed tracks &
running gear, suspension arms
moulded to the hull and rather
bland upper hull details.
The instructions with this kit
are very clear to follow and only
comprise 20 steps. We kick off
with the lower hull to which we
add the front & rear panels (with
ladders) and the roadwheels
and tracks. A note that the rear
exhaust pipe is moulded to the
rear panel and subsequently looks
clunky and is missing lots of detail.
This pretty much sets the standard
of the kit I am afraid. A test-fit of
hull halves and major parts reveals
no fit issues, so full marks Dragon.
The tools have moulded on straps
and would benefit from some etch.
The track links are poor in that
all of them have two knock-out
pins on the inner face, are missing
the pins & holes on their side,
missing the holes in the guide
horns and the track pad face isn’t
wide enough. On the plus side, they
do fit together well.
To the large, one-piece, upper
hull part we add the side beams,
exhausts, gun mount and the
walkways. Into all of this sits the
gun cradle which is simplified and
made of only five large pieces.
After this we get to the gun barrel
which has a representation of
rifling inside it, and this then slips
into the two-part breach. This has
cabling moulded onto one side
which, like the exhaust pipe above,
Marking options.
Graham
Tetley takes
a close look at
Dragon’s big
and impressive
Close up of the figure detail.
60cm Morser
‘Karl” Great.
is very basic.
Included in this release is the
figure set, which you initially had
to buy as a separate item. Detail
on them is generally nice and
sharp, with good facial features
reproduced. There is a little Wiring on the breech The rather bland
flash present – especially around block. exhaust part.
the hands – but the gas mask
canisters are a little soft on detail.
Six figures in total are provided
although we get two sets of arms
allowing you to have them either
standing around or in action.
This is a big, impressive, model
and with the addition of the figures
you have an instant diorama. Its
main strength is that it looks the
part and is simple and easy to Gun cradle and breech.
build. Fit of the main parts is very
good and, if you want to super-
detail it, there are things out
there (etched brass, new tracks,
turned metal barrel, ammunition,
and Trumpeter even do the
ammunition-carrying vehicle) that
will make this into a show-stopper.
If, however, you want something a
little more complicated that for the
same price contains better detail
out of the box then go for the Upper hull pieces.
Trumpeter kit. In the UK at least
both kits are at a very similar price
range, although the Trumpeter
version with the rail carriers is
about £50 more expensive. ■
References Used : Allied Axis
No.9 Ampersand Publishing.
No ISBN.
Track face detail is soft.
Perth Military Modelling
Site and Terry Ashley’s
comparison review of the
Dragon and Trumpeter
kits: https://www.
perthmilitarymodelling.com/
reviews/vehicles/trumpeter/
tr00209.html
Thanks to The Hobby
Company Limited for the
sample www.hobbyco.net
Soft detail on the rear panel.
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FEATURE ARTICLE International Models Asia 1:35 Tank, Light, Mk.IV
LAST BRITISH
TWO-MAN TANK
Mark Bannerman explains how to work
with resin to build this unique British tank.
T
he Tank, Light, Mk.IV
was a new model in the
series of Vickers light
tanks. The initial plan was
a new design, larger hull and a
more reliable tank. It had also been
planned as the tank for colonial
duty in India with every intention to
eventually mass-produce for export
purposes. However, only thirty-four
were ever produced.
Design started in 1931 with
several prototypes, many
modifications and alterations until
the final design was approved in
1933. The new design presented a
tank weighing approximately 4 tons
with a top speed of 55 Km/h which
made it the fastest of all of the
Mark types up until that time. The
engine was located to the right of
the driver and the most significant
modifications carried out on the MK.
IV compared to its predecessors
(MKI - MK III) were the use of the
hull as a chassis.
Previous Mark types had their
amour attached to the chassis.
Tank, Light, MK IV. (Photo source unknown)
26 Model Military International - May 2019
The MK. IV was constructed with
a higher silhouette and the turret
was set back from the center of
the tank. The rear idler wheel was
removed, and all suspension springs
were now attached facing forward.
Its cross-country performance was
unsatisfactory, particularly with its
tall hull and short track base which
made it prone to tipping over.
The two-man tank mounted a
.303 VMG and while its speed was
quite satisfactory, the War Office
opted not to proceed with mass
production favouring a new three-
man design tank (Mark V). The Light
Tank Mk. IVs were used primarily
for training purposes in the UK,
however, some references suggests
that some were sent for advanced
field training exercises in France in
1940, with the BEF.
Photographic evidence will show
some of these pushed into German
service and designated Leichter
Panzerkampfwagen Mk.IV 734(e).
There is only one existing MK. IV
and sits at Bovington Museum. A
The Mk IV was designed in 1933 and entered production in 1934 with thirty-four being The MK IV undergoing field testing. (Ph
produced. Rear view and fully equipped with mudguards, additional storage, and searchlights.
(Photo source unknown)
K

hoto source unknown) A Light MK IV used for training on Salisbury Plain – note hand grips for Prototype of the MK IV. The engine was located on the right side of the driver.
commander. (Photo source unknown) (Photo source unknown)

May 2019 - Model Military International 27

 FEATURE
FEA ARTICLE International Models Asia 1:35 Tank, Light, Mk.IV

Construction of the model was

quite simple and clean up and
prepping was minimal.

B CONSTRUCTION
Choosing a resin model can be a
daunting task. Many manufacturers
have come and gone but there still
remain several dozen excellent The sprocket was only
producers of high quality full loosely applied until
resin models – one of these is the tracks were ready
International Models Asia (IMA) to be attached.
out of Hong Kong. They have
great subject matter and while
their models are not complicated
to build, they do offer very
reasonably priced models.
The IMA offering is in every
sense a skeletal model which gives
me the freedom to make additions
and adjustments with surplus parts
from spares box.
The fit was very good, with
fewer than 40 parts, the subject
matter quite unique and overall a
very easy build from start to finish.
The model was washed, parts
removed and assembled in three
evenings. The first evening was
dedicated to removing parts and
prepping the parts and gluing the
main structure using 5-minute
epoxy and the second evening was
dedicated to adding the small resin
parts with superglue. The third
evening was dedicated to attaching
the tracks which I pirated from the
Vulcan MK VI Light tank.
Once all of the parts were
identified, all parts were soaked
in soapy water to remove the
releasing agents which is part The tracks were sourced from the Vulcan
of the casting process. This is MKVIa offering and took the better part of
an important step because the an evening to assemble.
releasing agent will affect the
adhesion of fillers, glues and
paints. A worn toothbrush is
helpful when cleaning up the resin.
Once the parts have been
cleaned and dried, it is time to
remove the parts from their
respective carriers. Similar to
Once the tracks were in
plastic models, there will be excess place, I applied copious
material that needs to be removed amounts of glue over the
from the parts of the kit assembly. tracks to loosen up the joints
The main difference is that, with between the tracks then
jammed a part of a toothpick
resin models, the parts needing
to push and force the tracks
removal can be larger and removal downwards to create a sag.
requires more care.

28 Model Military International - May 2019

 Various parts were sourced from a spares
I used sheet styrene box – note the commander grips (sourced
strips for the fender from a .30 calibre machine gun).
support brackets and
added some rivets
using a punch and die
set where these were
needed.

The exhaust pipe was not glued into

place until the end of the painting
process so that it was easier to
paint and weather separately.

To remove parts from the Cyanoacrylate glue - or Superglue with superglue glue. It contains by a chemical reaction instead of
carrier, I will use one of two tools - will adhere just about anything some minute quantity of cyanide, evaporation. Most epoxies come
- a jeweller’s saw for long or thick (including skin!), but the bonds which is a toxic compound. Use it in a two-part set that is mixed
attachment points between part formed are weak unless the mating in a well-ventilated area and don't in equal proportions and yield a
and carrier or a set of nail-clipper surfaces are clean, absolutely breathe the fumes. Never heat very strong bond. These require a
for parts with smaller attachment dry and fit well. Superglue is best it to make it cure faster. If your few minutes to set, making them
points. I rarely use a hobby knife applied with a small toothpick eyes begin to water, it is time to perfect for assembling variable
to remove parts from the carrier or a hobby knife. The better ventilate your working area. position parts. Both of these
because blades often split resin the fit between the parts to be The other type of adhesive - adhesive types will allow you to
(especially brittle resin) when joined, the stronger the bond. Be epoxy glue - covers a variety of attach photoetch, white metal, and
pressure is applied and could extremely careful when working adhesive resins that are cured plastic to resin. A
damage parts. I only use a hobby
knife to remove a part where there
is no “buffer” attachment point
The model almost complete A few more details were necessary
between carrier and part. In this
and ready for paint. to render it more complete.
case, I used the hobby knife by
lightly moving the blade between
the part and carrier repeatedly
until the part gives away.
Another characteristic of resin
models is the occasional flash.
Flash is paper-thin excess resin
that has managed to get between
the two halves of the mould,
forming a thin membrane around or
between parts. Flash can easily be
removed with a sharp blade - try
to avoid using your fingers to twist
or break it off. Before you remove
any flash, check the instructions to
ensure that the flash is not part of
the actual model. Removing flash
usually leaves a small mould line
and these can easily be removed
with a modelling knife, file or
sandpaper.
After the parts have been
cleaned up of flash and mould lines,
it was critical to dry-fit or test-fit
parts before committing to glue.
This just means placing the parts
together to make sure they are a
good fit before you apply the glue.
This is useful, as it will provide you
with potential problems such as
uneven joins and slight gaps in the
joins. For the actual gluing of parts, The model fully
there are only two adhesives that assembled.
work with resin - cyanoacrylate
glue (also known as Superglue)
or two-part resin epoxy glue.

May 2019 - Model Military International 29

 FEATURE ARTICLE International Models Asia 1:35 Tank, Light, Mk.IV
One light coat of primer so that I could
identify any surface blemishes.
B For heavy parts or where the
connecting point between two
parts is vital in supporting the
model, I always use 5-minute
epoxy glue (which really takes 15
minutes to fully cure). This is a
very strong bonding agent and far
superior. It allows you to position
the parts correctly before the two
part mix hardens. The down side
with 5-minute epoxy is holding the
part and cramping your fingers
until the resin dries thoroughly. A
small trick is to add a small drop
of cyanoacrylate glue - right over
the wet epoxy resin glue - to one
of the parts being joined. Within
5 seconds, the two glue types -
cyanoacrylate glue and two-part
resin epoxy – will bond providing
The tracks were picked out
using a small brush and a
mix of Tamiya NATO black
and Neutral Grey.
The rubber on the
wheels was painted
in Vallejo Grey Black.
30 Model Military International - May 2019
enough strength to stand free
without holding the parts with
your fingers. You will still need to
allow the resin to fully cure but the
cyanoacrylate glue will speed up
the process greatly.
Because of the weight of resin,
some modelers prefer drilling the
joints and using metal rods to
secure the contact point. This is
usually only necessary if you want
to add extra strength to a join. I
have never followed this step but
it is an option if you find the two
parts to be joined are too heavy
to be supported by 5-minute
epoxy. The two-part epoxy resin is
mixed with a toothpick and applied
immediately to the parts. If you
wait too long and allow the epoxy
to dry, it becomes “stringy” which
can then become messy. Once
cured, I further reinforce all points
of contact with cyanoacrylate
glue. A small piece of advice when
applying cyanoacrylate glue – try
to use an old hobby knife blade
as your applicator. It allows for
more control and reduces the
risk of excess cyanoacrylate glue
on your model. Too much wet
cyanoacrylate glue can be removed
with pieces of typing paper – the
paper will soak up excess glue.
When assembling models, I
usually start with the large parts
working exclusively with 5-minute
For the base
painting process, I
opted to use Tamiya
paints by mixing
Olive Green XF-58,
Dark Green XF-81
and JA Green XF-13
in a 50/25/25 mix.
A second coats was
applied in preparation
for the painting process.
epoxy, then once the skeletal is
constructed, I move in with the
smaller and delicate detail parts
with cyanoacrylate glue. Once all
parts are glued in place, I start
the process of sanding rough
areas or spots where superglue
may have spilled over. I usually
use fine sandpapers (400-600
grit paper). Sanding should be
done in a circular motion. Most
would strongly recommend using
a face mask whenever resin is
being sanded to avoid breathing
in resin dust. Sanding can also be
done under a running tap to keep
the resin from going airborne.
For weathering,
I prefer artist’s
pastels and
Rembrandt Sepia
oil as my basic
weathering
mediums.
Alternatively, I will sand resin
outside in the open air. Either way,
try to avoid sanding in a small
unventilated area. Whole sanding
sticks and sandpaper are ideal for
flat surfaces; a set of files can be
used for cleaning hard-to-reach
areas and smoothing castings to
make parts fit better.
With the model fully assembled,
I then began the process of filing
gaps and small holes. Putty is a
malleable substance that hardens
when it dries. Putty comes in small,
squeezable tubes, and several
brands are available at your local
hobby store. The two putty types
that I use most commonly are
Tamiya putty or auto primer (my
preferred choice). Mix the putty
per the instructions, apply the
putty with a toothpick, just enough
to fill the gap and allow drying
before sanding off the excess.
Model putty takes considerable
time to fully dry when applied in
thick coats so building layers is
helpful. Putty will shrink as it cures
so it is not a bad idea to fill the
void and allow for excess putty to
jut out from the gap. As it shrinks,
it will level out to meet the surface
around the gap. Any excess can
be trimmed or sand out. Once I
applied the putty, I will also use
liquid glue (Testors) to smooth
down the putty just before it fully
cures, particularly in areas where it
may be difficult to use sand paper.
Once the model is completely built
and ready for paint, I recommend
dipping the whole model into water
and using a wide soft paintbrush
to remove dust and particle as a
result of sanding and filing as well
as oily patches from handling.
Once the model is dry, a very
light primer (Tamiya Grey or White
primer works really well) should
be sprayed on. The purpose of
applying a light primer is to help
pick out any imperfections, gaps
and pinholes that were not visible
on the bare resin surface. Some
further sanding, filing of gaps,
These are very
long lasting.
and removal of excess glue will be I applied pin-washes
using Rembrandt Sepia
necessary. A further brushdown oil and heavily thinned
with a wet brush should be done with Testor’s thinners.
before moving to the priming
stage. Usually, two lights coats
of primer will be adequate. If the
model will be finished in a dark
colour (i.e. olive drab, panzer grey),
a black or grey primer works best.
For a light coloured vehicle (i.e.
desert, winter or multicoloured),
a white or grey primer are the
best options. Once the primer is
dry, the model is ready to move
into the next stage similar to any
plastic model.
PAINTING AND FINISHING The tracks received
I pre-primed the entire model in a wash of Rembrandt
Tamiya White Primer (I would use Sepia oil paints mixed
50/50 with Testor’s
a grey for this one but ran out) to
paint thinner.
provide tooth for subsequent paint
and would also allow the base coat
to be uniform in appearance.
For the base painting process,
I opted to use Tamiya paints by
mixing Olive Green XF-58, Dark
Green XF-81 and JA Green XF-13
in a 50/25/25 mix. The paint was
sprayed lightly to all parts with
an Iwata HP-B airbrush in two
light coats at 20 DPI’s. I had the
choice of either leaving it as a solid
base or applying a darker second
camouflage colour. I opted with the
solid colour base.
I then proceeded with a light
“dusting” of Tamiya Buff thinned The tracks took several
with Tamiya thinners to the entire washes varying the
model. To break up the monotone colours from Sepia to dark
brown using oils paints.
uniformity of the colour, I applied
three separate filters.
The first filter was Humbrol
160 mixed with 95% Testor’s
thinners and I allowed this to dry
thoroughly.
For the second filter, I used
Humbrol 30 (Dark Earth) also
mixed with 95% enamel thinners.
The third filter was a highly
diluted mix of Humbrol Matt 170
applied with a very large rounded
brush. The three filter applications
altered the overall tone of the dark
green drab base with an uneven A
May 2019 - Model Military International 31
FEATURE ARTICLE International Models Asia 1:35 Tank, Light, Mk.IV

I applied three separate The best way to apply

filters - Humbrol 160, filters is always to do
Humbrol 30, Humbrol so in a one-directional
170, in that order. downward motion.

The results after a Tamiya

Buff overspray, several
pinwashes and three filters.
M1. The pastels treatment – I
make my own mix of using
artist pastel chalks. I also
tried to use a new weathering
product from Tamiya.

Although well packaged and designed, I was not entirely bought on this Tamiya I resorted to my original recipe of artist pastels. I will try the Tamiya set eventually and give them another try.
weathering set as I found these light, translucent and do not adhere very well.

32 Model Military International - May 2019

 I applied a conservative amount
of pastels then airbrushed
Tamiya thinners neat so that the
thinners dilute the pastels on
the surface and hold it in place.
B discolored finish which was the
result I was looking to achieve.
This was followed by pin-washes.
Pin-washes are controlled and
localized application of washes
along seams, crevices, around
bolts and nuts. I applied pin-
washes using Rembrandt Sepia oil
and heavily thinned with Testor’s
thinners. This was applied to the
model with a “liner” brush.
For the tracks, I hand brushed
with a mix of Tamiya NATO black
and Neutral Grey.
The next step was a
light airbrushing to the
whole lower part of the
model with a very light
application of Tamiya
Earth - including the tracks –
to bring uniformity between
the tracks and the lower hull of
the tank. I was not very pleased
with the effect because it looked
too unbalanced. To remedy this,
I applied two successive filters of
Rembrandt Olive Green oil paints
mixed with 95% Testor’s thinners
and I allowed this to dry. This is
a good trick to keep under your
belt in the event that a wash
or light overspray alters your
base colour too much: Filter - or
several successive filters - in the
“once
keep filters heavily thinned and only apply
the previous filter is absolutely dry...
corrective colour will help bring
back tone and hue. In this instance,
I used too much brown and several
”
light filters of green brought me
back to the green colour. The only
disadvantage with using many
filters is that decals and markings
may become obliterated. The trick
is to keep filters heavily thinned
and only apply once the previous
filter is absolutely dry. A

Note the build-up of pastels around

the running gear. I repeated this
application of pastels and spraying
thinners several times each time
slightly altering the colours of the
earth-coloured pastels.

May 2019 - Model Military International 33

 FEATURE
FEA ARTICLE International Models Asia 1:35 Tank, Light, Mk.IV

I smudged pastels with a very

small amount of thinner on the
brush and poked and scrubbed
the pastels into the surface of the
model creating blotchy patches.
The exhaust pipe was painted in
Vallejo Gloss Black and then pastels
were applied lightly to mute down the
gloss. Exhaust pipes tend to become
shiny when they heat up – I tend to
shy away from the red brown rusty
appearance unless the tank has been
in the field and in the elements for
extended periods of time.

B I applied a conservative amount per a few wartime photos I found

of brown pastels that I sanded
down from artist sticks. I brushed
the pastels on in very liberal
amounts then airbrush Tamiya
thinners neat so that the thinners
dilute the pastels on the surface
and hold it in place. I repeated this
step 3-4 times, each time slightly
altering the colours of the earth-
coloured pastels.
My next weathering step was
applying black pigments diluted in
Tamiya thinners around prominent
nuts, bolts, along seams, crevices
and in shadows areas. This was
done by dipping my "Liner" brush
into the Tamiya thinner, then
into the pastels and drawing the
brush along cracks, seams and
around rivets. I was using the same
application as I had done with the
pin-wash mentioned above but this
process further accentuates the
shadows and more importantly,
provides a dirt-like texture in the
shadow areas which creates a nice
gritty effect. I also added a few
rain marks by drawing my liner
brush in a vertical motion from any
large run-off area.
For my last weathering step, I
smudged pastels with a very small
amount of thinner on the brush and
poked the pastels to the surface
of the model creating blotchy
patches. Once there was enough
pastels applied to the surface, I
used a perfectly wide dry brush
and whisked the brush lightly in a
downward motion over the surface
to remove some of the loose
pigments. The result was a blotchy
dusty dirty effect that provides
another layer of weathering to the
surface of the model.
I opted not to use any markings
other than to use an identification
plate which was printed from a
photo (off of a MKIV), resized and
glued into place with some regular
white glue.
CONCLUSION
This is a lovely model of a unique
and not frequently modelled
subject. I plan on building one
of each of the six light Mark
types over the next while and
this MKIV was my first. A simple
model to build, inexpensive, very
manageable and a lot of fun to put
together. If you are looking for a
simple resin model to build, take a
look at IMA’s offerings. I am also
working on an IMA Indian Pattern
Light Tank which became the
prototype of the Light Tank Mark
IV (later designated as the Light
Tank Mark IVA). ■
Modelspec
International Models Asia 1:35 Tank, Light, Mk.IV
Accessories:
Tracks from Vulcan MK VI Light tank.
Materials and Accessories:
Hobby knife, super glue and 5 –minute Epoxy
Paints and Finishing Products:
Tamiya White Primer
“build,
A simple model to
inexpensive,
Tamiya Extra Thin Liquid Cement
Tamiya Surface Primer (White) very manageable
Tamiya Two-Part Epoxy Putty
Tamiya paints Olive Green XF-58, Dark Green XF-81 and a lot of fun to
and JA Green XF-13
put together...
”
Humbrol 160, Humbrol 30 and Humbrol 170
Rembrandt Sepia oil paint, Rembrandt Olive Green
oil paint
Various pastel chalks (mostly browns and greens)

34 Model Military International - May 2019

I wanted to keep the weathering
conservative as it was not a fighting
vehicle but rather a vehicle that was
maintained for training purposes.

The identification plate on the front

is a resized photo and printed off of
my home computer and glued into
place with white glue.

Vickers Carden-Loyd Light Tank IMA Light Tank MK IV

Mk IV, India. It is very similar to the Indian Pattern model
Mk.IV Light Tank with the major under construction.
difference in the shape of the turret.
(Photo source unknown)

May 2019 - Model Military International 35

KIT PREVIEW Gecko Models 1:35 Cruiser Tank A9 Mk.I • Kit No. 35GM0003
SUPER CRUISER
Luke Pitt takes a look at the second new A9 Cruiser Tank
in less than a year.
W
e certainly do live in
the golden age of 1:35
scale modelling, don’t
we? Who would have
thought that we would get another
British Cruiser Tank A9 Mk.1?
Gecko seems to have pushed the
modelling envelope a little further
yet again and produced a model
that would have been unthinkable a
few short years ago.
The kit is presented in a largish
box with a first class illustration
adorning the box lid. A well printed
and precise 31-page instruction
book (yes, it’s a book) is included
with 38 construction sequences
and 6 marking choices.
The instructions and the
packaging have a quality feel to
them and this perception is carried
over to the plastic parts that make
up the kit itself. 1,006 medium grey
plastic parts are included across 39
sprues. In addition to this, a 35 part
photo-etched fret, one medium size
decal sheet and a strand of wire is
included. To be fair, the massive
part count is largely made up of
588 parts (over 7 sprues) for the
individual link tracks.
Comparisons between this
and the Bronco kit are inevitable
as are the different design
and assembly approaches. For
instance, the Gecko kit tackles the
tracks by the inclusion of multiple
part individual tracks. The Bronco
kit does the same thing with the
link and length, which is by far
easier to put together.
The Gecko approach is more
accurate in terms of shape,
Six marking options are offered.
36 Model Military International - May 2019
particularly on the guide horn inner
profile, but it comes at a cost. The
tracks themselves are very fiddly
and require a fair degree of clean-
up. The best way to assemble these
is to glue the upper and lower track
pads together and let dry. The
end connectors of the track pin
part can then be removed and two
pad assemblies slid onto the pin
part. The previously removed end
connector than then be carefully
glued on to where it was removed.
The lower hull tub is another
example; the Bronco kit is supplied
as a one-piece molding where the
Gecko kit addresses this area as a
six-piece flat pack assembly.
The sheer detail of this kit is
breathtaking. The upper hull has
both domed rivets and screws on
the rear deck, and is covered in
all the smaller fine detail that the
Bronco kit lacks.
The road wheels and suspension
are another example. The Gecko kit
exhibits much finer detail in terms
of shape and definition of the
smaller details with bogie springs
in particular being provided as
two parts as opposed to Broncos
one. The Gecko approach gives the
springs a see through look that is
far more aesthetically pleasing to
the eye.
The Gecko kit also provides
a semi complete interior with
only the engine and transmission
missing. The two small hull
turrets are pretty much complete
both internally and externally
and exhibit very fine detail on
all surfaces. A nicely posed and
Lower hull parts.
The instruction booklet.
The one-piece upper hull.
detailed Commander figure is
included that would complement A small sample of the interior detail parts.
any of the desert marking choices
provided.
The marking choices are:
• A two-tone example in Khaki
Green and Dark Green from the
2nd Royal Tank Regiment 1st
Armourded Division stationed in
the France in 1940.
• A three-tone Caunter scheme
“Antelope” from the 1st The workable track links. Edge track pins are used
to secure these.
Armoured Division stationed in
Libya 1940.
• An overall Portland Sone
example from the 7th tArmored
Division stationed in Egypt in
1940.
• A two-tone (of Khaki Green
and Dark green) example from
the 5th Royal Tank Regiment
1STArmourded Division stationed
in the France in 1940. Check out the beautiful plastic see-through spring.
Amazing!
• A three-tone “Caunter” scheme
from the 1st Royal Tank Regiment
stationed within the Tobruk
Garrison 1941.
• An overall Portland Stone
example from the 1st Royal tank
regiment 7th Armored Division
stationed in Egypt in 1940.
The Gecko kit is not perfect by The kit photo-etched fret.
any stretch and the overly complex
nature of the track assembly comes
to mind. In terms of detail however, Kit
it is superior to the Bronco kit in decals.
many of the smaller details. Both
kits are fine out of the box but may
well appeal to a different building
demographic. If you want a quick
build buy the Bronco kit. If you
want a detailed build as I do then
buy the Gecko kit.
Highly Recommended. ■
Thanks to Gecko for the
sample www.gecko-models.com
 EW in the ‘HOW TO BUILD...’ series
How to Build...
TAMIYA’S 1:48 NOW
SHIPPING
SUPERMARINE
SPITFIRE MK.I
When Tamiya released their 1:32 scale Spitfire
Mk.IXc in 2009, they set a new standard for plastic
model kits. As one of the most popular subjects in
the history of scale modelling, we should not be
surprised to find that Tamiya has now released an
all-new Spitfire kit in 1:48 scale.
Tamiya’s brand new 1:48 scale Spitfire Mk.I
delivers innovative design, outstanding detail, an
accurate outline and crisp, subtle surface textures.
This model has nothing at all in common with their
1993 kit.
Between these covers, we provide an exhaustive
step-by-step illustrated guide to building
Tamiya’s 1:48 scale Spitfire Mk.I straight from Only
the box plus tips on painting and weathering.
Plenty of inspiration is offered with two different £14.95
plus p&p
configurations plus a conversion to the Photo
Reconnaissance version with models by Brett
Green and Marcus Nicholls.
Also included are a walkaround of a surviving
Spitfire Mk.I, a
summary of other
Spitfire Mk.I model
kits available in
1:48 scale, a list of
available accessories
and decals plus a
catalogue of helpful
references.

ALSO AVAILABLE Visit doolittlemedia.com for details

FAX:
✁
Tamiya Supermarine Spitfire Mk.I P&P: UK; £2.00
Europe; £4.00
World-Wide airmail; £6.00
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www.doolittlemedia.comwww.doolittlemedia.comwww.doolittlemedia.com
FEATURE
FEA ARTICLE Tamiya 1:48 Panther G • Kit No. 32520

PINT SIZED
John Bonanni brings us Tamiya’s 1:48
scale Panther with an interesting twist
using an aftermarket conversion.

38 Model Military International - May 2019

D PANTHER

May 2019 - Model Military International 39

FEATURE ARTICLE Tamiya 1:48 Panther G • Kit No. 32520

A benefit of the diecast hull is that all the wheels are perfectly aligned. However, hull details are soft Wheel and track assemblies have been popped off and set aside until painting. Only the outer most set of
and limited. road wheels is left off during the painting process.

T
his project began with
a completely different
vehicle in mind. Initially,
I had ambitions of
converting Tamiya’s gorgeous 1:48
Panther Ausf. G to an A variant.
However, after inspecting the
conversion kit I determined the
hull required more work than I was
willing to spend in order to bring it
up to standard. After realizing this
I began to think of alternatives.
As time passed I forgot about
this project until reading the
excellent Panther: External
Appearance and Design Changes. Minor additions were all that was needed to spice up the hull. Mainly, the Photo etch mesh from the spares box was cut to shape and installed on the
simple strip handles were replaced with wire and the forward periscopes engine deck. This simple addition is a must for most German vehicles.
This book is arguably one of the
were added using styrene.
best references on the Panther
tank. On page 190 a unique
knocked out Panther is pictured in occurred at the beginning. Around
front of the Hotel Ardennes in the the time when this vehicle was
small town of Lignueville, Belgium. being manufactured, September
The photographs clearly indicated 1944, the order was given to
a vehicle that had a turret with cease the application of Zimmerit.
Zimmerit and a hull without. I had Therefore, MAN was faced with
my project back on track! an interesting situation where at
least two Pz.Bef.Wg. Panthers
MIXED BAG were finished with Zimmerit coated
The vehicle I was modeling was turret and bare hull. Before leaving
specifically a Panzer Befehls Wagon the factory MAN vehicles received
(Pz.Bef.Wg.) or command vehicle. a standard camouflage scheme,
It differed from standard Panthers; which was followed until the very
most notably with additional end of the war. In this case the
communications equipment and base colour was Dunkelgelb RAL
decreased ammunition storage. 7028 followed by Olivgrun RAL
With these modifications came 6003 and Rotbraun RAL 8017. It’s
increased assembly time at the also noteworthy that the muzzle
A quick and easy way to fill large joints without sanding is to use 5-minute epoxy. Simply run a bead of
MAN factory. During the assembly break was masked off and left epoxy down the joint. Next, take a cotton swab damp with denatured alcohol and run it over the joint
process Zimmerit application Dunkelgelb. before the epoxy has set.

What wasn’t to be. This is my initial

mockup for the conversion. Unfortunately,
there was too much work needed to bring
the hull to a usable state.

By contrast, the turret casting was nice and only required a few kit parts to be
complete.

40 Model Military International - May 2019

 EASY BEGINNINGS With all of the tools
Construction began on the lower attached the model was
hull by removing the wheels ready for primer to reveal
any possible building flaws.
and transmission housings for
attachment to the diecast tub.
Fortunately, Tamiya has decided
to go away from using the diecast
hull, which has soft details and
fixed torsion bar arms. Next, the
road wheels were temporarily
bonded to the torsion bar arms
using stationary white glue. Once
allowed to dry overnight the link
and length tracks were attached
using Tamiya Extra Thin liquid
cement. At this time injection pin
marks were filled on the inner track
surface as well. After letting cure
overnight the entire wheel and
track assembly was popped off.
As mentioned before I intended
to convert Tamiya’s kit to a
Panther A, but further inspection
showed poor cast details and a The brass barrel provided in the kit is
warped upper hull. The amount of from Aber and didn’t fit snuggly into
the mantlet, which left a large gap.
work required to fix these issues
was too much for my liking so I
pulled an audible and decided to
build a hybrid vehicle. Attention
was turned back to the kit supplied
upper hull by attaching the tools
and other details. Hatch handles
were clipped off and replaced with
wire and photoetch mesh was
added to the engine deck. A few
details were also replaced with
styrene to achieve a more in-scale
appearance. A

“ The photographs clearly

indicated a vehicle that had
a turret with Zimmerit and a
hull without. I had my project
back on track..!
”
The large gap beneath the gun
barrel was filled with Aves Apoxy
Sculpt prior to painting.

May 2019 - Model Military International 41

 FEATURE ARTICLE Tamiya 1:48 Panther G • Kit No. 32520

The finish from Gunze Sanyo’s Mr. Red Oxide

Surfacer 1000 is outstanding. The smooth
surface texture clearly highlighted any flaws.

The six spare track links per side are molded as

one piece which doesn’t appear realistic. A quick
fix is to use a micro saw to separate them.

B PAINTING HURDLES
Priming the vehicle at first was a
straightforward step, the tracks
and wheels were sprayed in black
while the turret and hull received
a coat of Gunze Sanyo Mr. Red
Oxide Surfacer. This was the first
time I tried Gunze’s option and I’m
impressed with the results. The
resulting finished is silky smooth Tamiya primer came to the rescue to firmly cover the pesky resin.
and it adheres well to the differing
materials. My enjoyment came to
a screeching halt when the primer
began to literally flake off of the
resin turret. Prior to priming, the
turret was washed and scrubbed
with dish soap. After removing
all of the red primer the turret
was washed and scrubbed with
denatured alcohol followed by a
coat of hardware store aerosol
paint. To my amazement the same
flaking happened again, another
road block. The only next step was
to use lacquer thinner to clean
the resin in hopes the paint would
adhere. Before applying another
coat of primer I asked for feedback
on Facebook and was recommended
to use Tamiya White Primer. What
did I have to lose! Fortunately, the
combination proved successful and
the paint was firmly fixed to the The first green base colour used was AMMO’s Olivgrun Opt. 2; when
resin surface. mixed with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner the finish is absolutely smooth.
The predominant colour of the
vehicle was olive green so the
first coat of paint on the model
was AMMO’s Olivgrun Opt 2. The
paint was thinned 1:1 with Mr. Color
Leveling Thinner and slowly built
up in multiple light coats. Several
other AMMO colours followed to
complete the vehicles standard
factory applied camouflage pattern.
Once finished the entire model
received a thin coat of X-22 Clear
for protection against decal setting
solutions and weathering effects.

NUMEROUS NUMBERS
In addition to the standard turret
numbers a common feature on
late war Panthers was the vehicle
registration number on the front
glacis. This six digit number is
the key to determining when and
where it was built. The decals used
to create the registration number
AMMO’s Reseda Green was
were sourced from a Dragon 1:35 used to lighten the base
Sd.Kfz 251 kit, which provided A colour and Schokobraun and
Dunkelgelb Aus ’44 completed
the camouflage scheme.

42 Model Military International - May 2019

 Period photographs were
used to accurately replicate
the MAN factory applied
camouflage scheme.

Tools and other details were

hand painted using a variety of
AMMO and Vallejo acrylics.

Decal setting solution is highly recommended to ensure a proper adhesion and eliminate silvering.

A small number vinyl

mask set made by Eduard was
used to mask the vehicles distinctive
turret numbers. If used carefully these
masked can be used multiple times.

Bottled weathering effects are an easy way to accomplish a variety of

techniques. In this case I used AMMO’s Brown Wash for Green Vehicles for
a highly concentrated pin wash.

To further blend the bright

camouflage colours a highly
diluted filter (1:10) of Tamiya
Buff was airbrushed uniformly
over the entire model.
After letting dry for ten minutes the excess wash, refer to previous picture, was cleaned off
leaving crisp shadows.

May 2019 - Model Military International 43

FEATURE ARTICLE Tamiya 1:48 Panther G • Kit No. 32520

Streaking and fading effects

were accomplished using
the dot filter technique with
AMMO’s Oilbrushers, which
are great product for modelers
looking to experiment and
develop their oil painting skills.

Chipped paint along the

vehicles edges and high
traffic areas were added
using a sponge and
brush. Before application
to the vehicle the sponge
was loaded with paint
and then dabbed on a
piece of paper until the
marks looked similar
in shape and size
as chips.

The mud and dust process

began on the suspension
components with a heavy
wash using Oilbrusher Buff.

Pigments were mixed with tap

water to create a paste that was
then spread onto the tracks and
allowed to dry overnight.
Multiple shades and layers of pigments were added to
the lower hull. Speckling aided in blending the pigments
from the muddy lower hull to rather clean upper hull.
44 Model Military International - May 2019
B countless license plate numbers.
Decals from the spares box were
Black oil paint helped create
also used for the Balkenkreuz the dark stains on the rear
on the rear and sides of the hull. plate. At this time the exhaust
Micro Sol and Set aided in decal stacks were also picked out
adhesion and once dry it was with Lifecolor acrylics.
near impossible to see the decal
outlines.
The large turret numbers were
applied using masks from Eduard.
Intended for 1:35 vehicles, these
small numbers matched perfectly
for large 1:48 numbers. The exact
colour of inner portion of the
number is unknown for this unit.
Multiple sources differ between red
and black. Desiring colour I choose
to go with red. The larger portion
of the mask was used to create the
white outline followed by the inner
red portion. I experienced minimal
overspray and only a few minor
touchups were needed with a brush.

TAMED WEATHERING
To unify the dramatic camouflage
colours a light brown filter of 1:10,
thinner to oil paint, was applied.
After allowing to dry overnight a
pin wash using added to enhance
detail depth. A fine tipped brush
was used for application to ensure
the dark wash wouldn’t affect the
vehicles overall appearance. Any
excess wash was removed with a
clean brush dampened with mineral
spirits. Weathering continued with
the dot filter technique; small oil
dots placed on the vehicle and
then blended. For this step I only
used three colours, which were
in the same colour range as the
camouflage colours. Following
placement the dots were blended
in a streaking motion for vertical
surfaces and a stumping pattern
for horizontal surfaces. Again,
the model was set aside to dry
overnight. Chipped paint was
replicated using AMMO’s Chipping
Color, which was applied with a flat
bristle brush and sponge.
Attention was turned to the
lower hull and suspension by first
adding a heavy dust wash. Next,
a slurry of pigment and tap water
was mixed and applied with an
old brush. Once dry, speckling
darker and lighter pigments help
add further depth and texture. A
few road wheel hubs were picked
out with Mars Black oil paint for
oil stains. Gun metal pigment
highlighted the track contact
points and edges of the vehicle. A

This photo illustrates a method I have been practicing lately while building German vehicles. The outline Subtle layers of oil paint speckling built up the layers of dust on the horizontal surfaces. Any mistakes
of the turret is clearly shown indicating the turret was in place when the camouflage scheme was added were easily fixed with a brush dampened with mineral spirits.
at the factory.

Track wear was highlighted using AK’s Gun Metal pigment. Despite using multiple tools, it seems the best Black oil paint was used again, this time mixed with AK’s Oil Stains, to create the rear deck oil stains.
way to apply it is with your finger. Multiple layers with varied opacity helped build up the pattern.

May 2019 - Model Military International 45

 FEATURE ARTICLE Tamiya 1:48 Panther G • Kit No. 32520

The same oil stain mixture used on the engine deck was applied to some of the hubs. It’s important to Several layers of multiple acrylic rust colours helped achieve the spare tracks appearance. The last step was to
vary the intensity between wheels and in some cases leave them without a stain. add dry pigments to enhance the texture.

B FINAL THOUGHTS
After almost calling quits several
times throughout this project
I’m very happy with the result.
The vehicles history allowed me
to create a unique subject in
an underserved scale for armor
modeling. Simple additions to the
Tamiya kit brought it to a state
that’s passable for 1:35. I hope
manufacturers release more 1:48
armor subjects. One last thing I’d
like to emphasize is the ability to
mix AMMO acrylics with Mr. Color
Leveling Thinner. I wish I could tell
you how and why it works, but I
can’t. I’m just glad it does! ■

Modelspec
Tamiya 1:48 Panther G. Kit No. 32520
Accessories Used:
Tank Workshop Panther A Conversion
Generic photo etch mesh
Tools and Materials Used:
Tamiya Extra Thin Liquid Cement
5 Minute Epoxy
Waldron Subminiature Punch and Die Set
Microscale Industries – Micro Sol, Micro Set
Iwata HP-C Airbrush
Paints and Finishing Products:
• AMMO Acrylics – Dunkelgelb Aus’ 44,Schokobraun,
Olivgrun Opt 2, Resedagrun, Rubber & Tires, New
Wood
• AK Interactive Enamels – Engine Oil, Fresh Mud
• AK Interactive Pigments – European Earth
• AMMO Enamels – Wash for German Dark Yellow
• AMMO Oilbrushers – Dust, Buff, Rust, Field Green,
Dark Mud
• Windsor Newton Oil Paints – Mars Black
• Tamiya Acrylics – Buff, Clear
• Mr. Color – Leveling Thinner
• LifeColor Acrylics – Burned Rust, Corroded Rust,
Streaking Rust
• Humbrol Enamel Thinner
• Gunze Sanyo - Mr. Red Oxide Surfacer 1000
✓ Perfect fit (Tamiya).
✗ Casting quality (Tank Workshop).
Available from
Tamiya kits are distributed in the UK by The Hobby
Company Limited www.hobbyco.net

Rating

46 Model Military International - May 2019

 “ After almost
calling quits several
times throughout
this project I’m very
happy with the
result...
”

May 2019 - Model Military International 47

KIT PREVIEW Rye Field Model 1:35 German Schützenpanzer PUMA • Kit No. 5021
NEXT GENERATION PUMA
Rye Field Model has added a 1:35 German
Schützenpanzer PUMA to their range.
Andrew Judson takes a look.
R
ye Field Model is a
relatively new player in
the industry, although
they have already
released many excellent kits in
a short time from WWII subjects
including Tigers, Panthers, to the
modern era with their series of
Abrams and the amazing Breacher
vehicle. Now, here is another
modern subject and a welcome one
at that.
The current German Puma first
came into official active service
in 2015 after many trials until the
powers decided this was to be the
new replacement for the effective,
though ageing Marder. It is planned
to have 350 new Pumas delivered
for service by 2020.
The vehicle is armed with the
Rheinmetall 30mm auto canon, and
also a 5.56mm MG4. Its powered
by a 1090 hp engine and has the
capability carry six fully equipped
The kit photo-etched fret.
48 Model Military International - May 2019
troops, ready to be deployed at
short notice.
Now let’s have a look at the kit.
Firstly you are presented with a
decent-sized high-grade cardboard
box, with some very nice box art
of this vehicle. Upon opening, you
will find 11 sprues of tan coloured
plastic, one small sprue of clear,
a single photo-etched fret and
a length of copper cable, giving
you a total parts count of 700
parts. There is also a sheet of
decals, and an 18 page instruction
sheet, well-illustrated and what
appears to be in a logical order.
Within the instructions there is
a colour profile paint guide as
recommended by MIG AMMO.
The build starts with the turret,
which is quite impressive, with very
nice detail.
Next it moves onto the driveline,
though I did note, there are no
details on the track assembly or
The decal sheet includes a useful number jungle for the license plate.
The upper hull includes some impressive detail moulded
in place.
The lower hull main part with sponsons moulded either
side.
Shock absorbers are moulded as part of the hull sides.
amount of links required per side?
We then move onto the upper
hull details and lastly the bar
armour assemblies that attach to The kit includes individual track links.
the rear of the vehicle.
I think that this is going to be
a very nice kit once built, though
as mentioned, due to lack of track
instructions, care will be needed
in that area. I do like the fact that
there are some subtle yet nice
surface details with the anti-slip
texture. Take care not to drown
that in paint!
For all modern armour
modellers, I recommend this kit as Nicely done three-dimensional bar armour.
a great subject.
This is a welcome and clearly
superior replacement for the old
Revell kit. I like it! ■
Thanks to Rye Field Model for
the sample www.facebook.
com/ryefieldmodel/
Turret parts.
The rear hull plate with an opening for the separate hatch.
FEATURE ARTICLE Stormtroopers 1:9 Dacian Warrior, 2nd Century AD

DACIAN WARRIOR
Adrian Hopwood paints a Dacian Warrior
from the 2nd Century AD.

50 Model Military International - May 2019

T
he second century AD was still a time
when the might of Rome was flexing
its muscles and expanding its borders.
True there were a few reverses in
fortune with the uncontrollable Picts in the
north of Britain, and the Celtic tribes in Spain,
but Eastern Europe suffered most because the
Germanic tribes and their cousins to the east
seemed a lot easier to subdue.
As it was, the Roman Legions annexed most
of what is now Germany and continued east.
Their setting up of military camps, engineering
skills for crossing rivers and travelling
substantial distances supported by supply trains
and their formidable strength of arms carried all
before them... up until they reached the Danube.
Here the land had become increasingly
mountainous and the Danube itself was a very
wide river that even the Roman engineers found
a difficult proposition to bridge.
The Dacians came into the frame at about
this point, thought to be related to Thracians,
they had also connections to the Scythians and
possibly Celts during the fourth century BC. A
mix of cultures, but all of them warlike.
Dacia spanned a large area. In modern terms
it covered portions of Romania, Moldova, with
parts of Southern Poland, Ukraine, Eastern
Serbia, Slovakia, Hungary and northern Bulgaria.
To the Romans, the peoples of this area were
known as the Getae and as Dacus in ancient
writings – both interchangeable terms – but
levelling out to us as the Dacians. A lot was
written about them by the Greek writers of the
times like Horace, Lucian and Vergil to name
but a few, and on into Roman times where even
Hadrian wrote about them. The Romans did
seem to partition the terms to indicate that
they viewed the Getae as occupying lands that
were more to the east, whereas “Dacian” was
ascribed to tribes that were occupying lands
closer to Rome’s invasion forces entering the
region from the west.
The Dacians religion seems to have been
centred on wolves, either the terminology for
their warriors once they had passed through
initiation ceremonies, the taking on of the
lifestyle of the pack, or possibly the belief that
certain individuals could transform into the
shape of a wolf all mix in to some rather muddy
water regarding their belief system. Images
and statuary of wolves do seem to feature
heavily in anything to do with Dacians of those
times, with small pottery depictions of wolves
and banners carved on Roman victory columns
remaining today.
As with all ancient history, the picture is
never clear. The Dacians are thought to have
had no written form of their language, which
in itself is argued to be either a version of
Thracian, or quite possibly a distinctly separate
language ( well, it’ll likely be one or the other.
But as both languages have died out except in
the names of places or plants, we’re unlikely to
know ). So the information we have is gleaned
from two sources – Roman and Greek carvings
and writings or archaeological finds. And whilst
the written records are enlightening, it has to
be said that from the Roman point of view, it’s a
view of a people that were seen as an enemy or
as being subjugated.
However, the Roman carvings do seem to
have had a lot of care taken about them with
the artist that produced the Trajan Column
going to great lengths to depict not only
warriors, but different levels of the Dacian
populace including women and children.
What we’re interested in here though is the
warriors, and again a feature of the Roman
carvings is that the Dacians did suffer defeat
and both the enemy warriors and the spoils of
war are depicted accurately.
The appearance of scale armour, oval and
round shields, the peculiar curved swords and
the different shaped helmets are all given to
us via these historical Roman records. Worth
focusing on is the curved sword that seems
to be a peculiarity of the Dacians at that time.
Whether this was developed or became more
common because of the Roman invasions
isn’t quite clear. Its design and use though are
documented as although at first glance the
sword would appear to be a curved blade similar
in make-up to say a Cutlass or Tulwar, it has
one serious difference. The sharpened edge is
on the inside of the curve rather on the outside
of it, so it was more like a heavy duty Sickle
or perhaps a scythe with a hilted handle. The
blade was relatively heavy too, and the curved
point was apparently quite devastating if used
overhand to pierce the Roman Helmets. Up
until this point, the Roman Legions had only
encountered exuberant Celts dashing at them
without formation, without tactical thought
and with lots of space between each warrior
so he could swing his sword. In comparison we
know that the tight formations that the Romans
used with shields locked together and the short
Gladuis used to thrust between the shields
creating a meat grinder effect that allowed
the Legions to roll over attackers efficiently
and very effectively. The advent of an enemy
striking over the top of the shield wall, striking
at the top of helmets that were not meant to
stand piercing attacks was a shock. It allowed
the Dacians some advantages, and slowed the
Roman advances.
The Romans regarded the Dacians were a
troublesome lot although it was due to a lot
of raiding and skirmishing prior to the rise of
Burebista who came to power in the middle of
the 1st Century BC. Rome saw him as a threat
although with Burebista’s death in 44BC Dacia
became split and the threat dissipated. A
century later though a new king of the Dacians
rose – Decebalus ( ruled 87AD – 106AD ) and
this new threat caused Emperor Trajan
( ruled 97AD – 117AD ) to gather forces
for invasion. Trajan’s forces spanned the
river Danube with a boat bridge, entering
Dacia and conquering it. Decebalus was
forced to signs a treaty which neither
side really viewed as binding in the long
term. Decebalus gathered forces and had
a Greek engineer build a stone bridge to
cross the Danube, but Trajan recognised
the threat and had his forces cross
the Danube a second time and on this
occasion the defeat was decisive. The
Dacian capital was captured and whilst
Decebalus escaped to the mountains, the
Roman pursuit was harsh and fast, the
Dacian king being cornered and choosing
to commit suicide rather than be captured
and paraded through Rome as a slave
before being put to death.
The Romans hailed Trajan’s success
as a great victory and the celebrations
were the longest and most expensive
then known with the records stating that
eleven thousand animals were slaughtered
during the festival and the same number
of gladiators fought in games held during
the hundred and twenty three day
celebrations. Part of the cost was likely offset by
the masses of gold from the Dacian mines that
were taken in the conquest along with animals
captured along the return and warriors enslaved
after the battle with them then being forced to
fight within the gladiatorial contest.
THE MODEL
Okay, an admission. Pegaso did a little 54mm
figure of a Dacian several years ago, it was a
beautiful sculpt and before I got hold of one a
chap called Steve Walker got one painted up. It
was a beauty and kind of made it redundant me
painting one – I didn’t think I’d be able to do one
that looked that good.
Years later, I wish I’d put one of those on the
Grey Army shelf, but then up pops this larger
scale bust from Stormtroopers, looking very
similar and very nice too. My hand was in my
pocket before I even had a conscious thought.
So, sculpture by Carl Reid – not much I can
say about that, Carl does a very good job of
whatever he’s sculpting, parts fit where they’re
supposed to and volumes and anatomy are what
you’re expect from a chap who’s been sculpting
for over twenty years that I’m aware of. He’ll
probably be able to tell you exactly how long
before that he was pushing putty about, but
then he’d seem old and ancient and we wouldn’t
want that. Suffice to say, it was a nice sculpt.
Casting, very good too, everything I’d expect
from Stuart Hale, and along with a sturdy box
with art by Ernesto Reyes, it all looks good.
There’s the usual casting blocks to remove
along with a couple of restrained mould part
lines, but nothing to catch you out and nothing
to cause any problems.
Parts split is logical, and I chose to keep most
things separate until after the painting process.
The only exception is where the shield strap that
passes across the body in a diagonal line extends
to fasten to the shield’s inner face. This is a
separate piece of resin and can only be fastened
in place once the shield is attached to the back of
the bust. I fastened the left arm in place too, and
had a little fun getting the strap into position. So
attach the shield first, then the strap, THEN the
arm once the strap is painted... See, I’m being
your stunt double for this one already! A
May 2019 - Model Military International 51
FEATURE ARTICLE Stormtroopers 1:9 Dacian Warrior, 2nd Century AD

PREPARATION
We show you the nicely painted box art by Ernesto Reyes,
and yet again I’m out of the trap and on my way before
taking shots of the raw resin parts. In this shot I’ve
painted all the metallic areas with printers inks and oils. I
began with a primer of black acrylic mixed with Isopropyl
Alcohol, adding two further layers of black acrylic to make
for a solid coating. Over this I added a shadow colour
mixed from bronze Printers Ink and Mars Black oils, then
painted each of the scales with a mid tone colour using
just the Bronze Ink. A couple of highlights were added
from Old Gold and then Silver Printers Ink.
The beauty of the Printers ink is that whilst the carrier
does evaporate off the inks don’t actually dry unless
heated up. So the colours can be blended on the figure
in a similar way to using oils.
The model was put in a drying cabinet overnight and then the metallic areas sealed with a couple of layers of Tamiya Smoke (X19). This There’s a fair difference between the last photo and this one where I’ve
stops the metallic flakes spreading and getting onto areas that you don’t want them. I also undercoated areas that weren’t going to be gone back to the metallic areas with the addition of some Classic Gold from
metallic so that again any errant paint couldn’t migrate. Darkstar Miniatures. It’s an acrylic paint with a very finely ground pigment
I’ve also painted the face, it’s one that’s full of character and has plenty of wrinkles to play about with. I also did the arms and hands in the metallic colours and whilst it’s slightly transparent, it gives s superb
that were bare flesh as well whilst I had the paints out – the usual mix of Titanium White and Mars Brown. shine. I used it on the helmet and scale armour, then recoated with more of
the Tamiya Smoke acrylic.

I’ve begun to add more paint, again

Whilst that was all drying I started on the back
of the shield. This photo shows the undercoated
shield. As you can see there are what appear to
be some uneven marks on the shield, these are
where the arm will contact it and also where the
cross strap piece will fasten on. There’s no need
to mess about smoothing them out as they will not
be visible on the finished piece.
with the large brush and without
cleaning it in white spirit. Simply
wiping most of the oil paint off is
sufficient. The lighter colour being
added here is Mars yellow, and the
upper half has had just that colour
added, with the lower half beginning
the addition of a mix of Mars yellow
and Titanium White. One thing to
remember is that after each pass of
the brush it must be wiped clean on a
soft cloth. The reason for this is that
as the brush passes over the surface
of the model and it’s putting new
This one shows the first addition of the oil paint – colour on, it’s also taking some of the
Mars Brown applied with a Ð inch wide brush. The darker colour OFF the surface. If you
paint is put on without any thinner being added don’t wipe that darker colour off, then
and is spread out a lot so that the brush marks it’ll just add to what you do on the
remain to begin to look like grain detail. next brush stroke and you’ll end up
with muddy looking colours all mixed
together. So, get in the habit of wiping
the brush after each pass.

The brush being used here is a Winsor

and Newton series 7, Size 1 and I’m
The next shot shows more of now adding small amounts of a mix of
the pale yellow, more of a cream Mars Brown and Mars Black. This is
colour really, being added and the where all the fine grain detail is added
brush I was now using to apply it. – knots, darker grain and any shakes
It’s a 1/16th inch flat brush, and or cracks in the wood and in photo #9
again the paint is added without the whole shield has been treated to
thinner and quite lightly so that this method.
lines are left in the colour. This all needed to dry before I could
Next for some fine detail. mark in the individual planks.

52 Model Military International - May 2019

So back to the main casting and the painting of the cloak. I didn’t want
anything too bright or glaring, and opted to use some reddish browns
for this section of the model. I began with mars Brown and added some
light red to build up mid tones, then thinking that this might be a woollen
garment moved to a cream colour to add highlights mixed from Mars
Yellow and Titanium White – you’d almost think I was using the left over
paint from doing the back of the shield...
Another angle shows more of the cloak and also the beard. With
all the wrinkles on that face I was thinking that this guy was aging
prematurely – hard life and looking like he was ancient even though he
was possibly only late twenties or maybe mid thirties, old for a warrior
in those times I would guess.
So I thought I’d paint the beard as though it was beginning to grey,
using more of the Mars Brown, but this time with a bit of Mars Black
mixed in, and then adding a little of the light Red (which is more of a
rust colour) and adding the grey areas from some of the left over cream
mix that I’d made for the cloak.
This shows how easy the back of the model is to paint – nothing
difficult about that big open space where the shield will fasten
on... So moving swiftly along and we’re back to the shield.
Having accessed a few books and also the Internet regarding
Dacians, I got the impression that they, like the Celts, loved their
decoration. There are notes from texts written about them when
Rome was battling them that they were pale of complexion, blue
eyed and tattooed, and Trajan’s column depicts designs on some
of their shields.

SHIELD
I didn’t want to go daft with an intricate design that was
over the top, but did want to add something to brighten up
the shield... Yes, even though it’s on his back.
This photo shows the main cover of the shield – likely a
piece of leather has been painted in and allowed to dry off.
I’ve also painted in the metal fittings of the diamond shape
and rivets although I’ve not yet added the metal edging.
Once all that was dry I could begin marking out the
pattern. I took this from a design I found on the internet
– OK not the most reliable source I admit, but it did echo
the shape of a lot of the different designs I’d seen so far.
The lower half of the shield design has been marked out
with a very dark brown mix, just visible along the edges of
the Mars Yellow that I’ve used to fill to leave only the dark
outline visible. I used oil paints for this as mistakes can
be rectified with a damp brush soaked in White spirit, and
patterns can be trimmed again with the same brush – just
clean it each time it’s used.
In the upper half of the shield I’ve started adding lighter
colours – a cream then a pure white using a small brush
and stippling the paint on in small dots.

To help, I’ve also added a close

up shot of just the design at
this stage. It’s not perfectly
neat at this stage, as I say,
adjustments will be made to This shows the finished design, and all that needs doing now is the edge of the shield
tie in the shape of the design painting with metallic inks.
and where the colours are laid
out, but it gives you an idea of
what’s going on.
May 2019 - Model Military International 53
FEATURE ARTICLE Stormtroopers 1:9 Dacian Warrior, 2nd Century AD

THE FINISHED MODEL

The final shots show the model finished. It had been
looking a bit dull so far, so I opted to paint the sleeves and
belt with a nice bright turquoise colour – I did actually
grey this out a bit by adding black and white to it, but it
still looks very!
I looked to pottery produced at that period and particularly
to any figures depicted on it for ideas about tattoos. The
spikes on the left arm are found on a pottery jug from the
period, the squiggly line with its borders again are on a
few pottery examples and the “V” shape is on the arms of
a warrior – again a depiction on pottery unearthed from
around two millennia ago. The “V” shapes on the figure on
the pottery are on both arms and there’s about four or five
running up each arm, I chose just to do the one.
One admission I have to make is replacing the sword hilt. I
was a little bit out with the fit of the arm somehow when I’d
attached the wrist (What is it with test fitting something
– it’s perfect when it’s in the raw resin, but just add paint
and nowt fits anymore !). Anyway, a slight bit of bending,
gentle like, and there was a miniscule “crack” sort of
“crack” noise and I’d managed to snap the hilt. I could have
just glued it, but to be honest a blind man galloping past
on horseback at midnight would’ve spotted the joint, so I
decided to cut it back to the metal ring in the centre of the
hilt, drill a couple of holes and insert a wire of the correct
length and add some putty to fill out the shape.
You’ll probably have to add a small amount of putty to the
joint in the cross belt where it joins onto the body, but that
is the only time I actually needed to add filler (excepting
being a heavy handed fool regarding the sword).
A brass tube a nice angle sided plinth from Oakwood
Studios (Please stop asking Richard for these – he says
they’re terribly difficult to make... My answer being that
they look so good).
And that was it really. Okay the short sword or long dagger
– browns and metallic inks again folks, I just kept using
those same colours – must’ve laid too much out on the tile
I use for a palette.
Things to watch for with this one – well, the short sword,
shield and the left hand hang a fair way down below the
cut off point of the body of the bust, so either a plinth
with a narrow top or a longer than usual post to mount the
piece on should be considered.
Also, as mentioned in the text, add the shield to the back
of the model, then that extra bit of cross strap, then after
that’s fastened, filled and painted, then add the left arm.
And watch the blade-like decoration on the helmet. I
dropped the main casting prior to painting and it snapped
off. It glued back fine and it’s my own fault, but it is rather
delicate as it’s a thin piece of resin, so try not to drop him
– perhaps that should be just a note to me then.
The pommel stone doesn’t protrude very far from the hand,
it would be a moments trouble to add a small piece of putty
to make this stand out from the little finger on the right
hand – something I’m going to do right after typing this.

SUMMING UP
I am so glad that I got this model. As
mentioned early on, I really liked the
Pegaso figure, and this is every bit as
good, just bigger and easier for my eyes
to see that have aged fifteen years since
I saw the Pegaso piece. I enjoyed painting
this, even though I made a couple of
problems for myself, it’s actually very
easy to put together, Carl has hidden all
the joints so there’s no need for putty
apart from that cross belt where I can’t
see how it could have been done any
differently, and as is so common with
Carl’s pieces, it exudes a “Look at me”
presence that catches people’s eyes.
Maybe it’s because it’s a little bit
bigger than most of the busts on offer
at the moment, maybe the pose has that
bit more attitude, or perhaps it’s the
composition with that left arm hanging
down... Maybe it’s all of these, but
whatever, I do rather like it. ■

54 Model Military International - May 2019

 Incoming
TAMIYA
1:35 SCALE JAPAN GROUND SELF DEFENSE FORCE TYPE 16
MCV METAL GUN BARREL
ITEM NO. 12686
Tamiya has released an upgrade for their excellent 1:35 scale
Japan Ground Self Defense Force Type 16 MCV. This is a new
one-piece turned metal gun barrel.
This is a luxurious accessory that looks beautiful in its shiny alloy
finish, but its two big advantages are the smooth barrel with no
seam lines to clean up, and its impressively crisp and deep spiral-
pattern holes in the muzzle brake.
Instructions are barely required but Tamiya provides them
anyway. The metal barrel will be partially encased in the plastic
kit parts for the fume extractor and the fabric cover for the base
of the barrel.
If you are building Tamiya’s new 1:35 scale Japan Ground Self
Defense Force Type 16 MCV, this new replacement metal barrel
is a worthwhile upgrade.
Recommended.
Thanks to Tamiya for the sample www.tamiya.com
Tamiya products are distributed in the UK by The Hobby
Company Limited www.hobbyco.com
TAMIYA Brett Green
1:35 SCALE US MCI CARTONS (VIETNAM WAR)
ITEM NO. 12685
This new accessory has been timed to coincide
with the release of Tamiya’s 1:35 scle M551
Sheridan kit, but it will be useful for virtually any
Vietnam War era vehicle, vignette or diorama.
The set contains one sheet of brown paper with
printed outlines and details for eleven MCI (Meal,
Combat, Individual) cartons.
All the printed detail is sharp and readable, albeit
you’ll need magnification for the smaller fonts.
Each carton is made up from three folded pieces
of paper. Each must be cut out from the overall
sheet and folded along the printed dotted lines.
Instructions for the folding and assembly are
offered in text and diagrams. These are quite clear
and easy to understand.
This will be a simple way to add convincing
stowage to your Vietnam War vehicles.
Recommended.
Thanks to Tamiya for the sample www.tamiya.com
Tamiya products are distributed in the UK by The
Hobby Company Limited www.hobbyco.com
Brett Green

DEF MODELS
1:35 SCALE US M551 SHERIDAN TANK 152 MM BARREL SETS ITEMS DM35087 (EARLY) DM35088 (LATE)
DEF Model is fast becoming an aftermarket producer of choice for many. Their range is expanding and
it is pleasant to see they have released two new additions for the recently released Tamiya Sheridan.
Now I know what most of you are now thinking. Why would I purchase these when Tamiya has already
released an update set for it?
Well, if you just want the barrel
then these two sets give you the
option of either the early barrel
(as in the Tamiya update) or the
late barrel. In addition, the DEF
barrels have the rifling as a small
photo-etch plate that you simply
roll up and place in the inside of
the barrel itself. The only negative
noticed was the hollowed out
section of the barrel itself may be
a tad shallow for some, otherwise
these are two very welcome
updates.
Highly Recommended.
Thanks to DEF Model for the
samples www.defmodel.com
Luke Pitt

May 2019 - Model Military International 55

 A round-up of the latest news and releases in 1:72 and 1:76

HAULER
1:72 SCALE RESIN KIT
42 CM HAUBITZE M. 17(T)
KIT NO. HLP72028
This monster was a superheavy siege howitzer used by Austria-
Hungary during WWI and by Nazi Germany during WWII.
It was designed to penetrate the weakly armoured decks of
heavy warships. Howitzers were cheaper to produce than other
artillery weapons and could be hidden behind hills to avoid the
expense of armouring them. These particular weapons were
designed to be set up on a turntable carriage set in a concrete
foundation, able to traverse a full 360° for all-around defence.
On the 14th of January 1915, Howitzer No. 2, assigned to
Küstenhaubitze Batterie (Coastal Howitzer Battery) no. 1, fired
its first shot at the railway station in Tarnow, Austrian Poland.
Eight model M14s were eventually ordered (along with a spare
barrel and cradle), although one was retained by Skoda. Barrel
production was very slow, and few made it into full service.
One surviving M14 was used in 1940 by Nazi Germany
to shell the Ouvrage Schoenenbourg from a position near
Oberotterbach because the larger 60- and 80-cm guns later
used by the Third Reich were not ready in time for the French
campaign, so World War I vintage heavy pieces like this had to
be used. The Skoda, apparently the sole M17 model, entered
ZVEZDA German possession following the annexation of Czechoslovakia
1:100 SCALE SOVIET MEDIUM in 1938/39, and was renamed the 42 cm Haubitze(t); it also
TANK T-44 served at Leningrad and Sevastopol, even though its barrel life
KIT NO. 6238 was rated to only 1,000 rounds This howitzer is apparently the
This is another model in Zvezda’s subject of this Hauler kit but I stand to be corrected as I am
Art of Tactic series and is a way outside my area of interest and expertise.
representation of a little-seen It was quite a monster, weighing in at 105 tonnes (231,000 lbs)
Soviet design, the T-44. The and its 630cm (20’8”) long barrel could send a 1000kg shell
T-44 was planned and designed over 12.5km at the rate of six to eight rounds per minute.
towards the end of World War The beast required a crew of 27 chaps! *
Two but never saw combat in that Previously Extratech have made this weapon in 1/35 and 1/72
conflict. It was meant to replace but I do not know the tie-up with Hauler, although Hauler
the T-34 and was to offer an is tied in with Brengun. This is a quality resin kit that comes
improved ride, better cross-country in a strong end-opening cardboard box with a photo of a
performance and better armour. completed model on the top. Parts are in small plastic bags but
However, the Soviets decided to curiously there is none of the familiar foam packing that most
stick with the T-34 and used the resin manufacturers use. The resin is backed up with two large
T-44 turret to up-gun it to the thick PE sheets for the mounting turntable, shields, control
T-34/85. Only 2,000 were built, wheels, handles, hatches, shell cradle, a name plate and other
but it was the precursor of the bits and bobs. A neat vignette could be built on a suitable base
T-54/55 series of tanks post war. and the main platform could be made to be rotatable. I can
The model is packed in an end make no comments about accuracy but the parts certainly look
opening box with a nice piece of like the ones illustrated on t’internet.
artwork on the front depicting the Major parts are substantial and well cast in dark grey resin, no
tank travelling cross-country and bubbles being apparent. Nice rivet and flange detail is moulded
the finished model with assembly into all parts. Carriage sections and smaller pieces have thin
instructions on the rear of the box. webs which will make separation and clean-up quite easy but
Inside are two sprues with eleven the two barrel sections have substantial moulding cores that
parts, the first sprue has the hull will require time, care and dust protection to remove and sand.
upper and lower halves and the Instructions are simple printed on both sides of an A4 sheet
other sprue the turret, gun and folded into an A5 pamphlet, the four construction steps being
running gear mouldings. clearly illustrated with line-drawings and placement arrows.
There is no flash noticeable on the No colours are quoted for details as I would assume the entire
mouldings and they appear well weapon would be painted the one colour. Two guns are
detailed. Considering these are illustrated on the instructions in B&W:
meant as wargame pieces they • From France in 1940 and painted field grey overall with a
display a fine degree of detail for name on the barrel ( provided on a tiny decal sheet).
their size and I have seen them • From Sevastopol in June 1942 and painted overall khaki with
made up into very nice display yellow and field grey markings on the carriage.
pieces by Braille Scale modellers. As This is an excellent rendition of this minor but significant heavy
an indication of how seriously this weapon from both wars. Would make a great vignette in the
is being taken, there are now after- hands of a competent modeller, and I can imagine a spectacular
market products for this scale. diorama when fully crewed with wee chaps from other sources.
So whether you are going to use A quick search revealed a number of suitable crew sets from
it as a wargames piece or as a specialist military suppliers in the ‘One True Scale’, or one could
detailed model, this is a nice little modify the chaps who come with more readily available styrene
kit and will make up very well. gun sets.
Recommended. Highly Recommended.
Thanks to The Hobby Company Thanks to Hauler for the sample www.hauler.cz
Limited for the sample Graham Carter
www.hobbyco.net
Paul Giles * Background information courtesy of Wikipedia

56 Model Military International - May 2019

ITALERI
1:72 SCALE
BRITISH INFANTRY AND SEPOYS
ITEM NO. 6187
This is a re-boxing of an old Esci set of
figures - Set 232, Colonial India British
Infantry – from 1986. The British troops
were also featured in a previous set of
Esci figures – Set 212, Zulu War British
Infantry – from 1984.
Despite their lineage they are still a
decent set of figures for wargaming
purposes. The figures are armed with
Martini-Henry rifles including the
Sepoys, who would probably have had
the earlier Enfield rifle as they were
usually equipped with older items.
As to the Sepoys, there are only ten
of them in three poses, not really a
great selection. There are some details
that are missing or incorrect for the
period, this comes about from the use
of the Zulu War set of infantry for the
Colonial British Infantry. The helmets
really should have a pugaree, or at
least the cloth cover that is shown in
the box art. The moulds are obviously
a bit old now and this is apparent in
the sprues as there is a small amount
of flash evident on the figures, also the
definition is not as good as some more
modern figures.
I am sure that the set will be of use to
those who want to wargame the later
periods of Victorian Colonial Wars, but
it would have been nice to see a new
set of sculpts. As mentioned, a decent
set of figures, but it could have been
much better.
Recommended with reservations.
Thanks to The Hobby Company Limited
for the sample www.hobbyco.net
Paul Giles

May 2019 - Model Military International 57

 Book Reviews

OSPREY ELITE 226

DIVISION LECLERC. THE LECLERC COLUMN AND FREE
FRENCH 2ND ARMORED DIVSION, 1940-46
BY M.P. ROBINSON & PHILLIPE SEIGNON
ISBN: 978 1 4728 3007 4
Distinguished military commanders have tanks named
after them, so too, General Philippe Leclerc, aka. Phillippe
de Hautcloque. An escapee from France he was an early
volunteer to General De Gaulle’s Free French Forces.
Being tasked to form a Free French Army from France’s
African Colonies, Leclerc successfully raised a number of
diverse colonial units, including camel troops. This was
OSPREY NEW VANGUARD 2019 to become the Leclerc Column, a deep raiding force
SUPERGUNS 1854-1991 - EXTREME ARTILLERY FROM THE PARIS GUN AND THE V-3 TO against Axis Forces in North Africa, styled on the tactics
IRAQ’S PROJECT BABYLON. of the LRDG. After expulsion of Axis Forces from North
BY STEVE ZALOGA Africa, Leclerc’s units were redeployed to participate in the
ISBN: 978 1 4728 2910 7 invasion of France.
Good Friday March 1918, an unexpected explosion rocks Paris with 159 civilian casualties. In the Normandy battles and advance across France, the
The German Army’s guns are out of range and there are no Zeppelins in the sky. By the now renamed 2eme Division Blindes distinguished itself in
day’s end the Wilhelm-Geschutz, better known as the Paris Gun had been located and notable battles including the Liberation of Paris, Dompierre,
counter bombardments begun. Baccarat, Strasbourg and capture of Berchtesgaden. The
This incident neatly demonstrates the war in Europe finally ending, Leclerc and elements of his
properties of superguns: long range; division were posted to the Far East and French Indochina
propaganda material, terror weapon as postcolonial conflicts began. Later re-assigned to North
and vulnerability to reprisal. The author Africa, Leclerc’s illustrious career prematurely ended when
discusses a number of big guns, but in 1947 he perished in an aircrash. He was awarded
has selected four superguns for detailed the posthumous honour of Marshall of France. A very
examination as representing periods of interesting account with top notch artwork illustrating the
rapid technological arms advancement: colourful vehicle markings and uniforms of the division’s
WWI and the Paris Gun; the plumber’s units add significantly to the quality of this book.
nightmare of pipes and tubes that was Recommended.
the German V3 high pressure gun of Thanks to Osprey Publishing for the review sample
WW2; the US Atomic Cannon and Soviet www.ospreypublishing.com
nuclear projectile firing guns of the Jon Ham
Cold War; and the Iraqi Project Babylon
Gun of the 1991 Gulf War. Presenting
many development challenges these
projects were heavily resource intensive,
and many failed to reach operational
level. By the late 20th Century giant
guns were largely superseded by more
accurate missile and aircraft delivered
munitions. However, the search for
inexpensive delivery systems for far
reaching munitions remains, and
intriguing research into electromagnetic
propulsion forces for these explosives
bring the account up to present day.
Recommended.
Thanks to Osprey for the review sample
www.ospreypublishing.com
John Ham

58 Model Military International - May 2019

OSPREY NEW VANGUARD
FRENCH ARMOUR IN VIETNAM 1945-54
BY SIMON DUNSTAN
ISBN: 978 1 4728 3182
As nationalistic fervour for independence swept through Europe’s
empires after WWII.
In Vietnam, part of French Indochina, De Gaulle sent an
expeditionary force to contain insurrection by the VietMinh in
northern Tonkin. A piecemeal armoured force was assembled,
including US M4 Shermans, M3 Light tanks, M3 scout cars and M3
half-tracks, British Coventry armoured cars, Humber scout cars and
Universal Carriers. From the Philippines came Crabes (M29 Weasels)
and Alligators (LVTs), and later US supplied Bisons (M24 light tanks)
and M3 HMCs (lance-patates – potato-throwers).
Some AFVs were extensively converted e.g. LVTs mounting 40mm
Bofors guns or with recovery crane jibs. Tank turrets were added to
riverine craft and armoured trains.
Movement in the Vietnamese terrain was difficult and ideal
for VietMinh guerrilla ambush and mining of roads and tracks.
Operations with amphibious Crabes and Alligators in the
waterlogged lowlands became an effective French counter measure.
As VietMinh attacks intensified the French set up defensive and
infantry support bases with their AFVs, culminating in the final
decisive loss of Dien Bien Phu. Graphic recollections of tank crews,
only possible from those present – using olive oil from canned
sardines in lieu of exhausted lubricant for gun recuperators; adding
wine concentrate as a forlorn attempt to make urine potable for lack
of water – create the stuff of legend.
Complementing the narrative is a good selection of photos with
exceptionally informative captions, making use of the book’s margins
to jam extra information into this small volume.
Recommended.
Thanks to Osprey Publishing for the review sample
www.ospreypublishing.com
Jon Ham
OSPREY NEW VANGUARD NO. 251
US NAVY ESCORT CARRIERS 1942-45
ISBN: 978-1-4728-1810-2
World War Two saw the rise of the aircraft
power and its eclipse of the Battleship
as the primary fleet asset but allied to
this development was the introduction
of the Escort Carrier which was no less
important despite being overshadowed by
its larger predecessor.
Mark Stille, a retired Naval Officer and
author of many Naval titles on the
Pacific Naval campaign, adds to the ever-
expanding Osprey New Vanguard line
with a new title devoted to the unsung US
Navy Escort Carriers of World War Two.
The Escort Carrier was a wartime
expedient forced upon a reluctant Navy
by the President who was an enthusiastic
supporter of the concept, which had
briefly been flirted with in the twenties
due to the limitations of the Naval treaties
of the period. The USN originally planned
to convert passenger liners due to their
high speed but instead built a concept
on a converted merchantman and then
converted a number of older cruisers.
It went on over the course of the war to
build no fewer than 77 Escort Carriers for
the USN and a staggering 38 more for the
Royal Navy. They were initially opposed by
the USN for their Austere nature but were
quickly adopted and developed into highly
capable ships virtually the equivalent of
Light Fleet Carriers except for their speed.
The served in a variety of roles and
proved supremely versatile. They had a
great effect in the battle of the Atlantic
providing much need air cover for convoys
and the hunter – killer teams that helped
turn the U Boat tide in favour of the Allies.
In the Pacific they were used in the convoy
escort and to provide ground support
aircraft for amphibious assaults.
They even served in unexpected roles such
as air Defence for assaults and served as
the centrepiece of an unexpected large
Naval engagement off the Philippines
during the Battle of the Leyte Gulf. Most
importantly they freed up the large Fleet
Carriers for more offensive roles aimed at
degrading Japanese capabilities. There role
despite its successes and importance has
May 2019 - Model Military International 59
often been forgotten and this title aims to
give the reader a great understanding of
these cheap but high value naval assets
which greatly added to the USN war effort
and its successes.
USN Escort Carriers are the theme of this
title and the book covers there history,
development and service. It is broken
down into informative well illustrated
chapters covering:
• Introduction.
• The Rise of the Escort Carrier
• The Evolution in Escort Carrier Design
• Escort Carrier Air Groups
• Escort Carrier Weapons and Radar
• Escort Carriers at War
• The Atlantic Theatre
• The Pacific Theatre
The Classes
• Long Island and Charger
• Bogue Class
• Sangamon Class
• Casablanca Class
• Commencement Bay Class
• Analysis and Conclusion
• Bibliography
• Index
This truly is a fascinating and informative
subject and title which gives the
reader a good insight into the genesis,
development and the USN’s usage of the
versatile and valuable Escort Carriers. It is
backed up by a good collection of photos
and excellent colour plates covering a
variety of the subject Escort Carriers and
some of the highlights of their brief service
in both the Atlantic and Pacific theatres
of war. Combined with the colourful
schemes and number of subjects in USN
use the Escort Carrier is an interesting
subject for the modeller and student of
WWII naval warfare. I’d highly recommend
it to historians, naval or WWII enthusiasts
and modellers.
Highly Recommended.
Thanks to Osprey Publishing for the
review sample www.ospreypublishing.com
Al Bowie
 1:48 Scale – A round-up of the latest news and releases
A MODELLING
PART ONE - LOOKING BACK
TALE
I
’m often intrigued by how others got their
start in the hobby. Over the years, I’ve heard
many stories of how people who model 1:48
scale armour got started and I often find a
common bond between them.
I’d like to start a little section within the column
called “A Modellers Tale” as I think in general we
like to hear stories about other modellers. If you
have a story to tell please share it with me and
I will publish it in the column. You may have far
more in common with other modellers than you
think. Besides, it’s fun!
Our first tale comes from a Western Australian
modeller, Alan Wells. I think you may find a lot of
his tale is common to us all:
“When I was a wee lad growing up in Riverton, a
little suburb in the City of Perth, Western Australia,
I remember with great fondness racing down to
the local Newsagency with my weekly pocket
money and searching through the revolving Airfix
display stand for something that took my fancy.
All bagged kits of course, all the expensive kits
where in boxes and on the shelves, they being
Revell, Monogram and some of the bigger Airfix
kits that probably needed a months’ worth of my
pocket money.
Kids being kids, I went for the quick fix and
bought the bagged kits every time.
It’s quite funny now, when I think back about it.
All my friends and brothers built kits back then
and I guess feelings of nostalgia have led me back
to searching out these old kits reliving my youth.
I started building as an 8-year-old. I’m now 56
60 Model Military International - May 2019
and I still recall the feeling of joy when purchasing
and building a new kit even to this day. Reason
would have it, that I still build because of the
fun factor that became hard wired into me as a
youngster. It simply never went away.
It does surprise me now why I persisted with
modelling after recently building some of these
old kits. The skill level required to deliver a
reasonable model far outstrips the ability of any
8 – 10-year-old kid (try building the old 60’s 1/72
Revell DE Havilland DH2 and you will know what
I mean).
Still, I persisted and here I’m today musing on
how it all came to be together with “where it’s
all going” to “how we all could grow our scale of
choice”.
As a teenager I always wanted to be a pilot. I built
anything with wings and must have fought the
Battle of Britain a thousand times, shooting down
more Messerschmitts than Sailor Malan, Douglas
Bader and the R.A.F all put together.
As I grew my interest changed, my driver’s licence
changed me. I started building old AMT and
Monogram Hot Rods, I must have customised
50 kits over the years educating myself through
plastic with what I wanted to do when it came
to the real thing. I eventually built 3 1/1scale Hot
Rods of which I still have my 1928 sedan delivery.
Around 20 years ago I started building 1:48 scale
aircraft kits, which led to the Tamiya 1:48 armour
and soft skin stuff.
I guess the common thread through my modelling
journey has been fun and a sense of achievement
by Alan Wells
on completing a kit. I would venture a guess that
the best way to get in new blood is to show,
above all, this hobby can be a lot of fun.
Where I live is a 2-hour drive south of Perth on
the coast in a little town called Bunbury. We have
not had a local hobby shop in town for nearly
five years but we do have a big toy store on the
main street. This sells everything from baby toys
all the way up to high end RC cars. They also
stock a reasonable supply of kits and paints and
consumables. I happen to know the owners quite
well. It’s been a family business here in Bunbury
for about 40 years, so much so, that my dear
departed Dad and the shops original founder
where great mates, my Mum even worked there
for a short while (many moons ago).
The shop is now run by the two sons. It’s a true
family affair with their wives and children also
helping out.
I make a point of buying all my paints and
consumables off them as a matter of duty and
it’s pleasing to note that when I go in (at least
once a fortnight) the stock on the shelves is
constantly changing and the paint topped up. The
owners inform me that there are plenty of regular
modellers in our district and one of their biggest
movers are the starter kits with a couple of tubs of
paint and glue aimed at newbies. So as far as the
health of the hobby in my area goes it’s not on
life support and is ticking along nicely.
With a bit of luck some of those newbie seed
kits will take root. If it’s fun, easy to build and
produces something that looks good and they
can have a sense of achievement, I’m betting they
will be back... Enter stage left Tamiya 1:48 scale
military kits, These tick all the boxes for me. It’s up
to us to show them how much fun we are having
and asking why they (Newbies and old hares) are
still not on board yet.”
Until next time and thanks again
Alan for sharing your tale.
Luke Pitt
 GAS PATCH
1:32 FLEXIBLE 30 CAL AMMO BELT
ITEM NO. NOT QUOTED
You’re probably saying to yourself right now “what the heck –
1:32 scale?”, but bear with me everyone. I’m always on the
lookout for products and material that we can used in 1:48 scale
and you know what? These would work well as 1:48 scale 50
call Ammo belts. Unlike photo-etch, these are cast in a flexible
resin and as a result may be draped and are three-dimensional as
opposed to being two-dimensional (like photo etch).
I can’t recommend these highly enough. They are very cool.
Highly Recommended.
Thanks to Gas Patch for the sample www.gaspatchmodels.com
Luke Pitt

TAMIYA
1:48 SCALE
GERMAN HEAVY TRACTOR SS-100 AND 88MM FLAK 37
KIT NO. 37027
This new boxing by Tamiya combines Tamiya’s recently released 1:48
scale SS-100 Tractor and the ten-year-old. Italeri 88mm Flak gun.
Let’s look at the Italeri 88mm first.
Moulded now in a sand shade (as opposed to Italeri’s original light
gray) the kit is presented on three sprues. There are lots of nice details
and this was one of the best 1:48 offerings from their range back in
the day. The kit provides a nice cruciform gun carriage that can be
built in the firing position or in its travel configuration. The gun may
be moved in azimuth and elevation. The gun shield has a viewport
armor plate that can be positioned open for firing or closed for travel.
The kit also comes with two wheeled carriages that are attached to
the cruciform carriage so the gun can be towed.
Hauler made an upgrade for this kit that replaced many of the overly
thick kit parts (like the Gun shield).
The SS-100 is still quite new and comprises 80 parts in the same sand
coloured plastic together with five clear parts.
The body is moulded as a single piece and includes the cab and
engine compartment. The four doors are moulded closed while the
cab floor and the rear are separate parts.
The chassis is a single part with engine and drive train detail moulded
in place. The leaf springs, exhaust, rear differential and the front
steering rack are all separate parts and are attached to the chassis.
The wheels are all plastic and detail is simplified on the inner hub
and tread details. The wheels could be replaced with the Old Tank
workshop wheels for the Sd.Kfz.234 if desired.
Five nicely detailed seated figures are also included.
These two work well together and our thanks go out to Tamiya for
providing the review sample.
Highly Recommended.
Thanks to Tamiya for the sample www.tamiya.com
Tamiya kits are distributed in the UK by The Hobby Company Limited
www.hobbyco.net
Luke Pitt

May 2019 - Model Military International 61

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GREAT NORTH ROADS Birmingham, B47 5PP
ALPINE, ROYAL MODEL, ARTISAN 9a Marcombe Road, Torquay, South Devon, TQ2 6LL MONROE PERDU Tel; 0121 474 0 0
Tel; 0180 4004 6 Monroe Perdu Designs, 168 Renee Court,
MORI, YOSCI; SMARTMODELLING www.greatnorthroads.co.uk Simi Valley, CA 9 065, USA.
www.simple2trade.com
No.7 Gordons Way, Oxted, Surrey RH8 0LN. UK
email svfarrugia@yahoo.co.uk www.monroeperdu.com
Tel; 0188 7 4746 SMARTMODELLING
smartmodelling@smart7.fsworld.co.uk (Swash, Tasca, Gap, Yosci, Royal Model
HANNANTS ORDNANCE MODELS No.7 Gordons Way, Oxted, Surrey RH8 0LN UK
Harbour Road, Oulton Broad, Via; www.steelmodels.com
AMPERSAND PUBLISHING Lowestoft, Suffolk, NR 2 2LZ,
Tel; 0188 7 4746
(via Historex Agents in UK smartmodelling@smart7.fsworld.co.uk
2 5 NE 6th Avenue #4 Delray Beach,
Tel; 01502 517444 PACIFIC COAST MODELS
Fax; 01502 500521 Tel; 001 707 5 8 4850
Florida 48 -554 , USA
www.hannants.co.uk SQUADRON
Tel; 561-266 9686 info@pacmodels.com 1115 Crowley Drive, Carrollton, TX 75006-1 12 U.S.A
sales@hannants.co.uk www.pacmodels.com
Fax; 561-266-9786
HISTOREX AGENTS SWANN-MORTON
ARCHER PANZERWRECKS Owlerton Green, Sheffield, S6 2BJ
Wellington House, 157 Snargate Street, PO Box 164, Heathfield, Sussex TN21 8WA, UK
(Historex in UK Tel; +44 (0)114 2 4 42 1
Dover, Kent, CT17 9BZ, UK www.panzerwrecks.com
PO Box 1277 Youngsville, NC 27596-1277, USA Fax; +44 (0)114 2 1 4966
Tel; 01 04 206720
www.archertransfers.co General: info@swann-morton.com
Fax; 01 04 204528. PARAGRAFIX
www.historex-agents.co.uk www.craftknives.com
BADGER AIR-BRUSH COMPANY 104 County Street, Suite 101
sales@historex-agents.co.uk Attleboro MA 0270 USA
9128W Belmont Ave, Franklin Park, IL 601 1 TAMIYA JAPAN
Tel; 847/678- 104 Tel: +1 508.4 1.9800 Tamiya, Inc., -7 Ondawara Suruga-ku,
www.badgerairbrush.com
HOBBYLINK JAPAN M-F 9am to 4pm EST Shizuoka 422-8610 JAPAN
Sano-shi, Kurohakama-cho 162-1, http://www.paragrafix.biz
email info@badgerairbrush.com www.tamiya.com
Tochigi 27-081 , Japan pgms@paragrafix.biz
(In the UK from www.shesto.co.uk)
www.hlj.com
TAMIYA UK;
BISON DECALS PLUS MODEL THE HOBBY COMPANY LIMITED
Available from www.hannants.co.uk and
HUSSAR PRODUCTIONS, CANADA (Creative Models in UK Garforth Place, Knowlhill, Milton Keynes, MK5 8PG, UK
www.airconnection.on.ca Jizni 56, 70 10 C. Budejovice, Czech Republic.
www.pdi-model-supplies.com Tel; 01908 605686 Fax; 01908 605666
plusmodel@plusmodel.cz enquiries@hobbyco.net
BLAST MODELS IAN ALLAN www.plusmodel.cz www.hobbyco.net
www.ianallanpublishing.com
Via AFV Modeller or www.blast-models.com
Mail Order Dept 01455 254450 POCKETBOND TRUMPETER
(Trumpeter & AFV Club in UK
BOOKWORLD WHOLESALE ICM Bachmann Europe PLC
www.trumpeter-china.com
Unit 10 Hodfar Road, Sandy Lane Ind Est Pocketbond in the UK
Kiev 02099, Ukraine, Borispolskaya 9 building 64. Moat Way, Barwell, Leics, LE9 8EY
Stourport, Worcs, DY1 9QB
Tel/fax; (+ 8044) 69-54-12 Tel; 01455 841756
Tel; 01299 82 0
export@icm.com.ua info@pocketbond.co.uk VERLINDEN PRODUCTIONS
Fax; 01299 829970 (Historex in UK
www.icm.com.ua
info@bookworldws.co.uk 811 Lone Star Drive, O’Fallon, Missouri 6 66, USA
PSP MODELS LTD www.verlinden-productions.com
CALIBRE 35 ITALERI (Mission Models in USA
(The Hobby Company in UK Unit 19B, Applin’s Farm, Farrington,
Via Hannants in UK
Via Pradazzo, 6, I-40012 Calderara Di Reno, Dorset DT11 8RA, UK VALLEJO
(Creative Models in UK
Bologna, Italy, Tel/Fax; 01747 811 817
CAMMETT Tel; 051 7260 7 www.psp-models.com Acrylicos Vallejo, SL Apartado 7 - 08800
(Lifecolour, Scale Caliber www.italeri.com Vilanova i la Geltrú, Barcelona, Spain
Unit 5 Greenfield Industrial Estate, Tel; ( 4) 9 89 60 12
Forest Road, Hay on Wye, Powys, HR 5FA
QUICKBOOST Fax; ( 4) 9 89 11 54
Tel; 01497 822757
JUST BASES www.quickboost.net www.acrylicosvallejo.com
21 Graham Road, Paignton TQ 1BB
Email; cammettco@btinternet.com
www.cammett.co.uk
Tel; 0180 558520 REVELL GMBH VLS CORPORATION
www.just-bases.co.uk Unit 10, Old Airfield Industrial Estate, (LSA in UK
Cheddington Lane, Tring, Herts
CLASSIC PUBLICATIONS JUST KITS HP2 4QR
(TRAKZ, WINGZ, CUSTOM DIORAMICS, WARRIORS);
Midland Counties Publications, 4 Watling Drive, Lincoln County Industrial Park, 1011 Industrial Court,
4 High Street, Botley, Southampton, SO 0 2EA Tel; 01629 660 291 Moscow Mills, Missouri 6 62, USA
Sketchley Lane Industrial Estate, Hinckley,
Tel; 01489 781177 ukbranch@revell.de www.modelmecca.com
Leics UK. LE10 1YF
www.justkitsandmodels.co.uk www.revell.de/en
Tel; 01455 2 747,
Fax; 01455 2 7 7 WHITE ENSIGN MODELS
midlandbooks@compuserve.com MDC SB MODELS (Toms Model Works
www.classic-publications.com Model Design Construction, Victoria Place, UK distributor for Model Victoria and Royal Model 85 2 Lamar Drive, Huntington Beach, CA 92647, USA
Victoria Road, Ripley, Derbyshire DE5 FW P.O. Box 114, Barrow-in-Furness, Cumbria, LA1 0WY. Tomsmodelworks@aol.com
Fax; 0177 51 44 Tel/Fax; 01229 4 0 749
CREATIVE MODELS LTD orders@modeldesignconstruction.com sales@sbmodels.fsnet.co.uk
www.whiteensignmodels.com
(Mig Productions, Vallejo, Accurate Miniatures
www.modeldesignconstruction.com www.sbmodels.net
Unit 6-10, Honeysome Industrial Estate, Honeysome WWII PRODUCTIONS, AUSTRALIA
Road, Chatteris, Cambridgeshire. PE16 6TG 12 Prince Street, Waratah, 2298, NSW, Australia
Tel; 01 54 760022 MODELING ARTISAN MORI SBLC Tel; +61 (0)2 4967 205
www.creativemodels.co.uk http://www .ocn.ne.jp/~m.a.mori/index_eng.html PO Box 794, Cheltenham GL52 ZW, UK Fax; +61 (0)2 4967 207
info@creativemodels.co.uk RICHARDSBLC@aol.com ww2prod@optusnet.com.au
MIG PRODUCTIONS
DARTMOOR MILITARY MODELS (Creative Models in UK SBX MODEL SHOP ZVEZDA
Haylis cottage, Budlake, Broadclyst C/ Santiago Rusinol 7, Pral 2a, Norwich Road, Ipswich. IP1 5DN (The Hobby Company in UK Promishlennaia
Exeter, EX5 LJ, England 08750 Molins de Rei, Barcelona, Spain Tel; 0147 464 11 Str.,2, Lobnya, Moscow Region , 1417 0
Tel; 01 92 881271 www.migproductions.com www.sbxmodelshop.co.uk Russia
www.dartmoormilitarymodels.com office@zvezda.org.ru
www.zvezda.org.ru

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64 Model Military International - May 2019

 Next Issue
On sale 2 May 2019
OPERATION DAGUET Part two
Kamil Feliks Sztarbała adds his Tiger Models 1:35
scale AMX-10RC to a diorama setting.

ISSUE No.157 May 2019,

Published 4th April 2019
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 The Last Post...
AUSTRALIAN ARMY LAND FORCES SEMINAR
T
he Land Forces Seminar is an
Australian Army biennial event
bringing together national,
regional and global partners to
discuss issues relevant to the future of
land forces.
Senior commanders of militaries from
around the world attended the seminar
held alongside the Land Forces Defence
Industry Exposition 2018.
Lieutenant General Burr said the
theme for this year’s Seminar was the
application of Land Power in the Indo-
Pacific.
This seminar enables us to strengthen
our partnerships with other international
military leaders, Defence industry and
academia and explore opportunities for
unlocking Army’s potential,”
“This year we have the largest
international contingent of delegates
in the conference’s history and I look
forward to sharing ideas with our allies
and partners and discussing common
security objectives and interests,”
Lieutenant General Burr said.
“I am pleased to welcome my
counterparts to Adelaide to discuss the
66 Model Military International - May 2019
A Rheinmetall Boxer
combat reconnaissance
vehicle on display during
Land Forces 2018 at the
Adelaide Convention
Centre, South Australia.
future of land forces in our region in an
increasingly complex strategic landscape.
“I look forward to strengthening
relationships with national and
international security leaders as we
discuss the application of land power in
the Indo-Pacific.
“Building on our international and
industry partnerships is essential to
generate capability advantage. As ‘An
Army in Motion’ we must continually
improve and adapt in order to be always
future ready.
“Through engagement with our
international partners, we work to ensure
our armies are ready to respond to
challenges that may arise.”
As well as attending seminars and
keynote addresses, attendees will Australian Army Drone Racing Team display.
have the opportunity to view some
of the Army’s latest technology and Abrams model as part of the equipment display during Land Forces 2018.
equipment including aviation, vehicle and
communication capabilities. ■
Copyright Ministerial and Executive
Coordination and Communication,
Department of Defence,
Canberra, ACT
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