Curlicue The Unicorn

Curlicue the Unicorn © 2016 Moji-Moji Design Page 1
Curlicue the Unicorn

Pattern Notes
Terminology
This pattern is written in American crochet terminology, which differs from British terminology in some
instances. The following table of terms used in this pattern will help should you wish to translate one to the
other.
American (US) British (UK)
ch chain ch chain
slst slip stitch ss slip stitch
sc single crochet dc double crochet
hdc half double crochet htr half treble crochet
dc double crochet tr treble crochet
tr treble crochet dtr double treble crochet
skip miss
Abbreviations & Symbols

cm centimeters
invdec invisible decrease
mm millimeters
Rnd(s) Round(s)
st(s) stitch(es)
() Round brackets indicate:
A group of stitches to be worked into the same stitch or space, or
The amount of stitches you should have on completion of the round or row it follows, or
Explanatory notes within the pattern.
[] Square brackets contain a group of stitches to be worked the amount of times indicated after
the brackets
“ inches
Special Stitch Explanation:

Invdec
This is a good way of decreasing in amigurumi when you need a tight, smooth fabric as this technique will
eliminate bumps and holes in the fabric and will be almost completely invisible.
Insert hook into front loop only of first stitch, do not wrap yarn, insert hook into front loop only of next
stitch. You will now have a total of three loops on your hook. Wrap your yarn around hook and pull through
both of the 2 front loops on the hook, wrap yarn around hook again and pull through last 2 loops on hook.
You have now ‘invisibly’ decreased by one stitch.
Color Changing:
Make all color changes in the last 2 loops of the final stitch of the old color.
Color Change Ends:

Tie off and trim your color change ends as you go. Tie securely on the inside of your work. With amigurumi
crochet it can be difficult to reach the ends once you have crocheted too many rows above.
For repeating stripes carry the unused color up the inside of the work to save keep cutting and re-tying.

Embroidered Stitches:
To hide the starting and fastening off ends of the embroidered stitches on the face, first thread your yarn
needle with the appropriate yarn. Tie a knot in the end of your yarn and push needle into and out of toy
between crochet stitches, coming out where you want the first embroidery stitch to be. As you pull on the
yarn the polyester toy filling will catch the knot securely inside the toy. When you have worked the
required embroidery stitches you can finish off by passing the needle in and out between different crochet
stitches a few times until the yarn is securely caught up in the polyester filling. When secure, pull on end of
yarn and snip off close to toy.
Stitch Marker Use:

Place marker in first stitch of each round. Move marker up with each completed round.
Stitch Placement: Work in both loops of the stitch unless specified otherwise.
Gauge (Tension):
Exact gauge is not crucial for this pattern. Just make sure your crochet hook is small enough to create a
tight fabric that the stuffing can’t poke through.
With the yarn and hook specified unicorn measure approximately 9” (23 cm) tall.
Materials for each

1 Light worsted weight, (DK/8 ply) yarn in the following color suggestions:
White, Yellow, Gray, Pink, Purple, Green
2 2 x 9 mm black plastic toy safety eyes.
3 Polyester toy stuffing.
Equipment
1 Size D (3.25mm) crochet hook.
2 Scissors.
3 Yarn needle.
4 Stitch marker.
5 Tweezers. (For stuffing small or narrow parts)
I've stated gray yarn in the pattern but any colour will do for the hooves and mane. Sparkly or variegated
yarns will add an extra touch of fun to your unicorn.

The Pattern
Head
Make 1 piece, starting at nose. Working in continuous spiral rounds.
With White yarn make 2 ch.
Rnd 1 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6 sts)
Rnd 2 2 sc in each of next 6 st. (12 sts)
Rnd 3 [Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] 6 times. (18 sts)
Rnd 4 [Sc in each of next 5 st, 2 sc in next st] 3 times. (21 sts)
Rnd 5 Sc in each st around.
Rnds 7-9 Sc in each st around. (3 rounds)
Insert the safety eyes between Rnds 12 and 13 spacing them 10 stitches apart.
Rnd 19 [Sc in each of next 4 st, invdec] 6 times. (30 sts)
Stuff the head.
Rnd 22 [Sc in next st, invdec] 6 times. (12 sts)
Rnd 23 [Invdec] 6 times. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for finishing. Thread yarn tail onto yarn needle, pick up front
loop only of remaining 6 stitches. Pull tight to close the hole. Fasten off. Weave in end.
Using gray yarn, embroider two small vertical running stitches for nostrils.
Body
Make 1 piece, starting at front end. Working in continuous spiral rounds.

Stuff the body.
Rnd 28 [Sc in next st, invdec] 6 times. (12 sts)
Rnd 29 [Invdec] 6 times. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for finishing. Thread yarn tail onto yarn needle, pick up front
loop only of remaining 6 stitches. Pull tight to close the hole. Fasten off. Weave in end.
Neck
Make 1 piece, starting at top center. Working in continuous spiral rounds.
Rnd 4 Working in back loops only: Sc in each st around.
fig.1 fig.2 fig.3
As an alternative to pinning the stuffed parts of your amigurumi you can use a thin knitting needle to
skewer the individual pieces together. This makes repositioning the head and limbs very easy and the
knitting needle holds the pieces firmly together while you sew.
Legs
Make 4 pieces, starting at hoof. Working in continuous spiral rounds.
With Gray yarn make 2 ch.

Change to White yarn.
Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. Stuff legs and sew to underside of body (fig.2).
The top of each pair of front and back legs should touch in the middle (fig.3).
Mane
fig.4 fig.5
Note: The mane can be made up of just the First Part. If you prefer a fuller looking mane make
the Second Part as well and sew on to the First Part, as instructed.
First Part.
Make 1 piece. Working in rows.
With Gray yarn make 31 ch (foundation chain).
Row 1 Working in back loops only (see fig.4): Starting in second ch from hook, sc in each ch to end
(fig.5), turn. (30 sts)
The end your hook is at now is the front of the mane.
Row 2 1ch (does not count as a st), slst in next st, 18 ch, slst in second ch from hook, 2 sc in each of
next 16 ch, slst in each of next 3 st.
Row 3 24 ch, slst in second ch from hook, 2 sc in each of next 22 ch, slst in each of next 3 st.
Rows 4-8 30 ch, slst in second ch from hook, 2 sc in each of next 28 ch, slst in each of next 3 st. (5 rows)
Row 11 18 ch, slst in second ch from hook, 2 sc in each of next 16 ch, slst in each of next 2 st, 2 ch.
Rotate mane and work down the opposite side of the foundation chain. (fig.4)
Row 12 Slst in first leftover loop of foundation chain, 18 ch, slst in second ch from hook, 2 sc in each of
next 16 ch, slst in each of next 3 leftover loops of foundation chain.
Row 13 18 ch, slst in second ch from hook, 2 sc in each of next 16 ch, slst in each of next 3 leftover
loops of foundation chain.
Rows 15-19 30 ch, slst in second ch from hook, 2 sc in each of next 28 ch, slst in each of next 3 leftover
loops of foundation chain. (5 rows)

Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. Sew centre line of mane to back of head and
neck. The front of the mane is placed 3 rounds behind eyes and the back of the mane reaches
to the base of the neck.
Twist the curls on the mane in a clockwise direction until they are tightly and evenly wound
into corkscrew shapes.
Second Part (optional).
Make 1 piece. Working in rows.
With Gray yarn make 31 ch (foundation chain).
The end your hook is at now is the front of the mane.
Row 1 Slst in second ch from hook, 18 ch, slst in second ch from hook, 2 sc in each of next 16 ch, slst
in each of next 3 ch on foundation chain.
Rows 2-7 24 ch, slst in second ch from hook, 2 sc in each of next 22 ch, slst in each of next 3 ch on
foundation chain. (6 rows)
Rows 8-9 18 ch, slst in second ch from hook, 2 sc in each of next 16 ch, slst in each of next 3 ch on
foundation chain. (2 rows)
Row 10 18 ch, slst in second ch from hook, 2 sc in each of next 16 ch, slst in each of next 2 ch on
foundation chain.
Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. Sew second part of mane down center parting of
first part of mane.
Twist the curls on the mane in a clockwise direction until they are tightly and evenly wound
into corkscrew shapes.
Horn
Make 1 piece, starting at tip. Working in continuous spiral rounds.
With Yellow yarn make 2 ch.
Rnd 4 2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 5 st. (7 sts)
Rnd 5-7 Sc in each st around. (3 rounds)
Rnd 8 Sc in each of next 3 st, 2 sc in next st, sc in each of next 3 st. (8 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. Stuff horn and sew to top of head just in front of
mane.
Ears
Make 2 pieces, starting at tip. Working in continuous spiral rounds.
Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. Oversew base of ears flat. Fold base in half and
secure with a few stitches. Sew to either side of head 2 rounds behind horn.

Wings
Make 2 pieces. Working in rows.
With White yarn make 14 ch. (Foundation chain).
Row 1 Starting in second ch from hook, sc in each ch to end, turn. (13 sts)
Row 2 1 ch, (does not count as a stitch), sc in each st to end, turn. (13 sts)
Row 3 1 ch, (does not count as a stitch), slst in first st, 9 ch, slst in second ch from hook, sc in next ch,
hdc in each of next 2 ch, dc in each of next 4 ch, skip next st, slst in next st.
Row 4 7 ch, slst in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in each of next 2 ch, dc in each of next 2 ch,
skip next st, slst in next st.
Rows 5-6 5 ch, slst in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, skip next st, slst in
next st. (2 rows)
Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing (fig.6). Fold each wing in half so that the feather
parts match up. Sew around all edges to join (figs.7-8). Sew base of wings at a slight angle to
either side of body with tallest wing tip at base of neck.
fig.6 fig.7 fig.8
Tail
Make 1 piece, starting at base. Working in rows.
With Gray yarn make 2 ch.
Row 1 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6 sts)
Row 2 Slst in next st, 30 ch, slst in second ch from hook, 2 sc in each of next 28 ch, slst in next st.
Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. Thread the yarn tail onto a yarn needle and
weave through the first 6 stitches in the magic ring. Pull tight to gather up the base of the
unicorn's tail. Sew tail to back end.
Spend some time carefully twisting the curls on the tail in a clockwise direction until they are
tightly and evenly wound into corkscrew shapes.

Flowers
Make 4 in Purple yarn, 2 in Green yarn and 2 in Pink yarn (or as many as you like).
Working in continuous spiral rounds.
With Your Chosen Colour yarn make 2 ch.
Rnd 2 [(Slst, 4 ch, slst) in the next st] 5 times. (5 petals made)
Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. For each flower, cut a length of Yellow yarn
approximately 6" (15 cm) long. Make loop and bring end of yarn through loop as you would to
make an overhand knot (fig.9). Repeat 3 more times (fig.10), then pull slowly on either end of
yarn to tighten knot (fig.11). Use both yarn ends to sew knot to centre of flower (fig.12), tie off
at the back (fig.13). Weave in ends of knot at back of flower and trim (fig. 14).
Sew a pink, a lilac and a green flower on top of the mane behind the ears. The flowers will help
to keep the mane in the position that you want it. Sew a lilac flower to the base of each wing.
Using Green yarn embroider 3 chain stitches for leaves (figs.15-17).
fig.9 fig.10 fig.11
fig.12 fig.13 fig.14
fig.15 fig.16 fig.17
Pattern & Images © 2016 Moji-Moji Design (Janine Holmes)

This pattern is an original design and all content, including the inherent design and all images are the copyright and design right of
Moji-Moji Design (Janine Holmes). Re-distributing, or selling this pattern, either in the original or any modified format, via any
media, whether digital or physical, is strictly prohibited.

Curlicue The Unicorn

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Curlicue the Unicorn

Abbreviations & Symbols

Special Stitch Explanation:

Color Change Ends:

Curlicue the Unicorn © 2016 Moji-Moji Design Page 2

Stitch Marker Use:

Materials for each

Curlicue the Unicorn © 2016 Moji-Moji Design Page 3

Curlicue the Unicorn © 2016 Moji-Moji Design Page 4

fig.1 fig.2 fig.3

Curlicue the Unicorn © 2016 Moji-Moji Design Page 5

Curlicue the Unicorn © 2016 Moji-Moji Design Page 6

Curlicue the Unicorn © 2016 Moji-Moji Design Page 7

fig.6 fig.7 fig.8

Curlicue the Unicorn © 2016 Moji-Moji Design Page 8

fig.9 fig.10 fig.11

fig.12 fig.13 fig.14

fig.15 fig.16 fig.17

Pattern & Images © 2016 Moji-Moji Design (Janine Holmes)

Curlicue the Unicorn © 2016 Moji-Moji Design Page 9

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