Wave Mechanics & Hydrodynamics (3)

Iwan Renadi S, Ir, MSCE, Ph.D.

STRUCTURAL ENGINEERING – GRADUATE PROGRAM
UNIVERSITY OF INDONESIA
25 February 2014

Objectives

• At the end of the presentation, you

will be able to understand :
1. The wave characteristics & terminology.
2. Linear wave and Higher order wave
theories
3. Wave energy and power
4. Motion in surface wave
5. Environmental loads

1
 What causes waves?
• Waves are created by releases of energy
(disturbances) including:
Î Wind
Î Movement of fluids of different densities
Î Mass movement into the ocean (splash
waves)
Î Underwater sea floor movement (tsunami)
Î Pull of the Moon and Sun (tides)
Î Human activities

Most ocean waves

are wind-generated

2
Approximate distribution of ocean surface wave
energy illustrating the classification of surface
waves by wave band, primary disturbance force,
and primary restoring force.

Types of progressive waves

• Longitudinal
– Back-and-
forth motion
• Transverse
– Side-to-side
motion
• Orbital
– Combination

3
 Wave characteristics and
terminology

Crest
C t
Trough
Wave height (H)
Wavelength (L)
Still water level
Orbital motion

Circular orbital motion

• As a wave travels
travels,
the water passes
the energy along
by moving in a
circular orbit
• Floating objects
also follow circular
orbits

4
 Orbital motion in waves

• Orbital size
decreases with
depth to zero at
wave base
• Depth of wave
base = ½
wavelength,
measured from
still water level

Deep- and shallow-water waves

• Deep-water waves
– Water depth > wave
base
• Shallow-water
waves
– Water depth < 1/20
of wavelength
• Transitional
T iti l waves
– Water depth < wave
base but also >
1/20
of wavelength

5
 The “sea” and swell
•Waves originate in a “seas” area.
Waves under the influence of winds
in a generating area

•Swell describes waves that:

‰Have traveled out of their area of
origination
‰Exhibit a uniform and
symmetrical shape
Or Swell: Waves moved away from
the generating area and no longer
influenced by winds

Fully developed sea

• Factors that increase wave height:

– Increasing wind speed
– Increasing duration (time) of wind
– Increasing fetch (distance)
• A fully developed sea is the maximum
height of waves produced by conditions
of wind speed, duration, and fetch

6
 Largest wind-generated waves
authentically recorded
• In 1935, the vessel
USS Ramapo
experienced large
waves while
crossing the Pacific
Ocean
• Wave height was
measured at 34
meters (112 feet)

Sagging & Hogging on Wave cause

Longitudinal Bending Stress on Ship
• Sagging condition

Crest Crest
Trough

• Hogging condition

Trough Crest Trough

7
 Longitudinal Bending Stress on Ship
Sagging
Weather deck : compression Bending
Moment

Stern Keel : tension Bow

Hogging

Weather deck : tension

Stern Bow

Bending
Moment
Keel : compression

Interference patterns

• Constructive
¾Increases
wave height
• Destructive
¾Decreases
wave height
• Mixed
¾Variable
pattern

8
 SMALL AMPLITUDE/FIRST ORDER/AIRY
WAVE THEORY

1. Fluid is homogenous and incompressible,

therefore, the density is a constant.
2. Surface tension is neglected.
3. Coriolis effect is neglected.
4. Pressure at the free surface is uniform and
constant.
t t
5. Fluid is ideal (lacks viscosity).

SMALL AMPLITUDE/FIRST ORDER/AIRY

WAVE THEORY
6. The wave does not interact with any
other water motion.
7. The bed is a horizontal, fixed,
impermeable boundary which implies
that the vertical velocity at the bed is
zero.
8. The wave amplitude is small and the
wave form
f is
i iinvariant
i t iin titime and
d
space.
9. Waves are plane or low crested (two
dimensional).

9
 SMALL AMPLITUDE/FIRST
ORDER/AIRY WAVE THEORY

Can accept 1, 2, and 3

and relax assumptions 4- 4-9
for most practical solutions.
solutions

Wave Characteristics

T = WAVE PERIOD
Time taken for two successive crests to pass a
given point in space

10
 Definition of Terms
ELEMENTARY, SINUSOIDAL, PROGRESSIVE
WAVE

WAVE CELERITY, LENGTH, AND

PERIOD
PHASE VELOCITY/WAVE CELERITY:
(C) speed at which
a waveform moves.

Relating wavelength and water depth to celerity, then

Since C = L/T, then is

NOTE: L exists
on both sides of
the equation.

11
 When d/L >0.5 =
DEEP WATER
Here,

DEEP WATER:

1. Longer waves travel faster than shorter waves.

2. Small increases in T are associated with large increases in
L.
Long waves (swell) move fast and lose little energy.
Short wave moves slower and loses most energy
before reaching a distant coast.

12
 Motion in Surface Wave

Local Fluid Velocities and Accelerations

(HORIZONTAL)

(VERTICAL)

Water particle displacements from mean position

for shallow-water and deepwater waves.

13
 Summary of Linear Waves (1)
C = Celerity = Length/Time
Relating
g L (Wavelength)
( g ) and D (Water
( Depth)
p )

Since C = L/T, then becomes:

Since C = L/T, then becomes:

Summary of Linear Waves (2)

14
 Summary of Linear Waves (3)

WAVE ENERGY AND POWER

Kinetic + Potential = Total Energy of Wave System

Kinetic: due to H2O particle velocity
Potential: due to part of fluid mass being above trough.
(i.e. wave crest)

15
 WAVE ENERGY FLUX
(Wave Power)
Rate at which
energy is
transmitted in the
direction of
propagation.

Summary of Linear (Airy) Wave Theory:

Wave characteristic

16
 Regions of validity
for various Wave theories

HIGHER ORDER THEORIES

• Better agreement between theoretical

and observed wave behavior
behavior.
• Useful in calculating mass transport.

HIGHER ORDER WAVES ARE:

• More peaked at the crest.
crest
• Flatter at the trough.
• Distribution is skewed above
SWL.

17
Comparison of second-order Stokes’ profile
with linear profile

USEFULNESS OF HIGHER ORDER

THEORIES

MASS TRANSPORT VELOCITY = U(2)

The distance
a particle is
displaced
during one
wave period

NB: Mass transport in the direction of propagation.

18
 VELOCITY OF A WAVE GROUP
WAVE GROUP/WAVE TRAIN
Speed not equal to wave travel for individual waves
GROUP SPEED = GROUP VELOCITY (Cg).
INDIVIDUAL WAVE SPEED = Phase velocity or wave
celerity.
Waves in DEEP or TRANSITIONAL WATER

In SHALLOW WATER

Ocean Wave Spectra

19
Wave amplitude varies with Period

Wave Period & Frequency

20
 Wind & Current Loads

Wind Load Calculations

1/n
Wind speed varies with Vz z
height by the following =
power law formula: VH H

Where: H = Reference height (typically 30 ft)

z = Height of interest
Vz = Wind speed at elevation z
VH = Reference wind speed at elevation H
n = Exponent between 7 and 13 (8 for
sustained wind and 13 for gusts)

Wind & Current Loads

Wind Load Calculations

Speed (ft/sec)
Height (ft)

Ref. Height
30
(typically 30 ft)

21
 Wind & Current Loads

Wind Load Calculations

Wind Force 1
Fw = ρa Cs A Vz2
(lbs): 2

Where:

ρa = Mass density of air (slugs/ft3)

Circular Rectangular
Section Cs = Shape coefficient Section

A = Projected area of the object (ft2)

Vz = Wind speed at elevation z (ft/sec)

Cs = 0.5 Cs = 1.5

Wind & Current Loads

Wind Load Calculations

C s = 0.5 C s = 1.5
2.00

1.80
1.60

1.40
d Force (kips)

1.20

1.00
0.80
Wind

0.60
0.40

0.20
0.00
0 20 40 60 80 100

Area = 100 ft2 W i n d S p e e d (ft/ se c )

22
 Profiles of Wind Speed

NPD, 35 m/s Reference Wind

100

80 1-hr
elevation (m)

10-min
60
1-min

40 15-sec
3-sec
20 1-sec

0
0 20 40 60 80
speed (m/s)

Shorter gusts have more uniform profiles.

Wind Force Example

Select different block Tip: For wind calcluations
areas based on use the waterline as z=0 ..
elevation, shape Convert to the keel reference
f stability!!!
for t bilit !!!
5 z5

3 z3
z4 4 2 z2
3.6 m
6m
1 z1

23
 Example Wind Force Calculation
45 deg

0 deg

Block Desc z center Ch (ABS) Length Height Area Area CorreAdj Area Cs CsChArea Force/Ur**2
1 Lower Decks 23.5 1.1 100.0 9.0 900 1.0 900 1.00 990 605
2 Rig 31.5 1.1 30.0 7.0 210 1.0 210 1.00 231 141
3 Quarters 33.0 1.1 20.0 10.0 200 1.0 200 1.00 220 134
4 Process 32.0 1.1 20.0 8.0 160 1.0 160 1.00 176 108
5 Derrick 46.0 1.3 15.0 40.0 600 0.6 360 1.25 585 357
6 Hull 7.5 1.0 21.9 15.0 329 1.0 329 1.00 329 201
7 Deck Supports 17.0 1.1 21.9 4.0 88 0.6 53 1.00 58 35
2 2
Force at 0 deg Total Force/Ur 1582 N/(m/s)
2 2
Equivalent Area = Force/(.5 wUr ) 2589 m
Centroid of Force 28.5
2 2
Force at 45 deg ~ 1.2* Force at 0 deg Total Force/Ur 1898 N/(m/s)
2 2
Equivalent Area = Force/(.5
wUr ) 3107 m
2
Force Coefficient 0.194 t/(m/s)

Types of Currents

5
Turbidity
Currents
4
eak Velocity (kt)

Boundary
River Currents Currents
&
3
Solitons

Associated
Eddies
Shelf
2 Storm Waves
Currents
Pe

Internal
1 waves
Tides
Tides
0
0.01 0.10 1.00 10.00 100.00
Period (day)

24
 Storm-Driven Currents
• Stratification important
• Modeling is “easy”
easy
• Reach 200 cm/s
• Important in cyclone
regions

Inertial Currents

• Generated by y
impulsive force
• Propagate down/up
• ~50 cm/s
• May govern design
in rare cases
• Modeling possible

Inertial current reflected from the

bottom, Gulf of Mexico

25
 Boundary Currents

• Strong & persistent Scotian

• Strong vertical Shelf

coherence
Warm
• Meanders & eddies Ring

• Important at …..
– GOM Cold
Gulf
– Flemish Pass Ring
Stream
– W. of Shetland
– Nigeria
Infrared image of the NW Atlantic

Boundary Current Modeling

• Presently developing in
GOM & W. of Shetland
• Very expensive!
• Still unproven
• Animation
–bbased
d on model
d l nott d
data
t
– shows current vectors

26
 Eddies

• Prolific!
• Many different sizes
• Cold & Hot
100-yr Loop Eddy Profile
0
200
Depth ((m)

400

600

800
1000
0 50 100 150 200 250
Speed (cm/s)
Eddies in the Caspian

Cold Core Eddies

27
 Topographic Waves

• Moderately strong &

last for days
• Modeling possible
• Important …..
– GOM outer slope
– Australia
A stralia
– W. Africa

Topographic waves in GOM

Internal Waves & Solitons

• Forced by tides,
tides winds
• Phase spd ~100 cm/s
• 5 km λ, 30 m high Wave
Warmer Water Breaking
• ~200 cm/s
• Modeling ??
• Important
Important…. Internal
Waves Rankin
– Australia pipeline!

– W. Africa ? Colder Water

– S. China Sea

28
 Internal Wave Examples

Internal waves in the Red Sea Solitons through Gibraltar

Turbidity Currents

• Mud avalanches
• 25 m/s currents!
Fluid-mud
• Few measurements ”avalanche”

• Important…
– Cabinda
Accreting
– Scotian Shelf Sediment
Instability triggers
– Manteo sudden slide

Sediment accumulates
over months/years

29
 Current Gustiness

• Wind gustiness well Loop Current

C G
Gustiness
recognized 1.4

st Factor (24 hr=1)

• Gusts caused by
1.2
small-scale eddies
• For Loop ~5 cm/s at 2 1.0
min period
Gus
0.8
0.1 1.0 10.0 100.0
Time (hrs)

Wind & Current Loads

Current Load Calculations
Current Force 1
Fc = ρw CD A V2
(lbs): 2

Where:

ρw = Mass density of water (slugs/ft3)

CD = Drag coefficient
A = Projected area per unit length (ft2)
V = Current speed (ft/sec)

30
 Wind & Current Loads

Current Load Calculations

C d = 0.7 C d = 1.0
40.00

35.00

30.00
Currentt Force (kips)

25.00

20.00

15.00

10.00

5.00

0.00
0 5 10 15 20
Cu rre n t S p e e d (ft/se c)
Area = 100 ft2

Hydrodynamic Wave Forces on Slender

Member
Morison Equations:
F = FD + FI

F = Total horizontal wave forces

FD= Drag Force

FI = Inertia Force
C li d in
Cylinder i non-uniform
if inflow
i fl

π D 2 ∂u
F = 0 .5 ρ C D D u u + ρ C M
4 ∂t

31
 Hydrodynamic Wave Forces on
Slender Member

• ρ = sea water density

• CD= drag coefficient
• D = projected area of the object
perpendicular to water particle velocity
• u = horizontal water particle velocity
• CM=Mass or inertia coefficient
∂u
= horizontalwaterparticleacceleration
∂t

Hydrodynamic Wave Forces on

Slender Member
Assumptions to validity Morison’s Equation:
Various force regimes may be established:
1. D/L > 1 Conditions approximately to pure
reflection
2. D/L > 0.2 Diffraction increasingly important
3. D/L ≤ 0.2 Morison valid (Applicable)
4. D/W > 0.2 Inertia increasingly predominant
5 D/W < 0.2
5. 02 D
Drag predominant
d i t
Where:
D = the diameter or width of the member
L = the wave length
W = the orbit width of the water particle

32
 Hydrodynamic Wave Forces on
Slender Member

• The orbit width is given by:

H
W=
2πd
tanh
L
Where:
H = the wave height
g
d = the water depth

Hydrodynamic Coefficients

CM, CD functions of Determined

"Body Geometry "Empirically
"Reynolds Number "Experimentally
"Keulegan- "CFD
Carpenter Number Computations

33
 Hydrodynamic Coefficients
• The Drag (CD) coefficient is dependent on the
y
Reynolds's Number
• Reynolds's Number: U max D
Re =
ν
Where:
Umax = the maximum longitudinal water particle
velocity
l it (in
(i wave direction)
di ti )
D = the cylinder diameter
ν = the kinematics viscosity

Hydrodynamic Coefficients
• Keulegan-Carpenter Number: K C = U maxT
D

Where:
T = the wave period
πλ
For shallow-water can be expressed as: KC =
D

λ = the wave length

34
 Drag Coefficient (CD) Vs Reynolds
Number
CD

Re x 10-5
Source: T. Sarpkaya

Mass Coefficient (CM) Vs Reynolds

Number

CM

Re x 10-5
Source: T. Sarpkaya

35
Hydrodynamic Coefficient (Drag)

Hydrodynamic Coefficient (Drag)

36
 Hydrodynamic Force on Slender
Member

This is known as “modified” Morison’s Equation

37