Paper Cut Magazine NovDec 2010 Issue

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www.papercutmag.com 1
2 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2010 www.papercutmag.com
Maria Hamilton Designs
www.mariahamiltondesigns.com
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IN THIS ISSUE
08 FROM THE EDITOR
How time flies when you’re having fun!
THE LIFE
12 Bad Rabbits’ Salim Akram Talks Music & Fashion Band feature
14 Reality: There’s An App For That What effects have the technology boom had on us?
16 Boys Boys Boys The latest (and hottest) in menswear; photographed by Emily Byrom
BUZZWORTHY
26 Fashion Blogging in a Historical Context The blog craze continues
29 Why Do We Like Vintage? Miss At La Playa weighs in on the matter
30 Sweater Fever Modish blogger Jena Coray confesses her sweater addiction
32 Displaced Cozy looks for fall; photographed by Helen Tran
39 On The Verge: Three very unique and talented jewelry designers
FASHION FORWARD
46 Beyond Balmain: The real inspiration behind the never-ending military trend
50 Heroine In Ruins Add a little edge; photographed by Lindsay Adler
60 Kiss & Tell Punch up your pout; photographed by Remi Kozdra and Kasia Baczulis
66 Evigheden Abigail Stewart and Marianna Barksdale
79 A Tough Bite Masculinity at its prettiest
80 Smarter Spending Recession-proof tips & tricks
81 New York Chronicles Brooklyn’s finest hidden gems
83 WHERE TO BUY
Find your favorites featured in this issue!
ON THE COVER
Photographed by REMI KOZDRA & KASIA BACZULIS
Makeup MARIANNA JURKIEWICZ
Model KATARZYNA (REBEL MODELS)
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BEAUTY NOTE: Katarzyna wears MAC Prep + Prime Lip, Lip Pencil, and lipstick in “To The Beach”
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Papercut
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Hayley Maybury
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Nicole Bechard
MARKETING AND TECHNICAL DIRECTOR

Jamall Oluokun
FASHION EDITOR
Nicole Herzog
WEB & COPY EDITOR

Nora E. S. Gilligan
GUEST BLOGGERS
Jena Coray
Mónica Parga
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Nicole Bechard
Erin Berry
Brittnee Cann
Nora E. S. Gilligan
Nicole Herzog
Christine Mastrangelo
Billie D. McGhee
Jamall Oluokun
Ariana Shuris
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS/PHOTOGRAPHERS
Lindsay Adler
Kasia Baczulis
Emily Byrom
S. Fecho
Julian Gilbert
Justin Hogan
David Kamm
Remi Kozdra
Billie D. McGhee
Tim Renzi
Spry Lee Scott
R. Shawn
Sarah Beth Smith
Helen Tran
Yutaka Tsutano
www.papercutmag.com
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FROM THE EDITOR
HOW TIME FLIES WHEN YOU’RE HAVING FUN...
Greetings Papercutters!
Can you believe it’s November already? I guess time really does
fly when you’re having fun, because the team here at Papercut
has definitely been doing so! With all the September shows and
events far behind us, we finally have a chance to reflect on all the
great places we went, friends we made and wonderful creations
we saw. Be sure to check out our website’s Photo/Video page to
view pictures from the fall’s events.
I think, more often then not, we get so caught up in having all

the beautiful things we see that we tend to overlook the talented
people who are actually creating them. Papercut not only fea-
tures the work of new and emerging talent, but also gives our
readers the chance to get to know and learn about the people—
the artists—behind that work. This is what I love so much about
the magazine; it’s such a thrill for us each time we get to feature
a new creative mind.
We have collaborated with some amazing individuals over the

past couple months to bring you what I think is our best issue
yet. First, I am super excited for you all to see our debut mens-
wear editorial. Yes guys, we have you covered for your fall fash-
ion looks. And I have to say, this is one editorial that I personally
can’t keep my eyes off of!
Our designer feature this month is also a must-see. Meet the

creative geniuses of Evigheden; their unique collection will be
sure to leave you breathless!
Finally, as the holidays quickly approach we have some tips on

how to handle your wallet and still have some leftover cash to
buy yourself some presents!
Enjoy, and keep the feedback coming. We love hearing from you!
xoxo
Hayley
P.S. As always, printed copies of Papercut Magazine are available

TOP-BOTTOM: Editor-in-chief Hayley Maybury, Creative Director for purchase on MagCloud ( www.magcloud.com )!
Nicole Bechard and Marketing/Technical Director Jamall Oluokun
share the love at our release party back in September; Jamall, Hayley
and our new Web Editor Nora Gilligan (yay!) at a Carmen Marc Valvo
Ovations for the Cure runway show; Jamall and Hayley attend the
preview of designer Nara Paz’s S/S 2011 collection.

Come and be inspired
who knows where the road will lead you...
A place for fine fabrics.
281 Auburn Street | Auburndale, MA 02466 | 6617.244.SILK(7455)

www.thesilkroadfinefabrics.com 9
11
BAD RABBITS’ SALIM AKRAM
TALKS MUSIC & FASHION
FROM LOCAL GIGS TO A TOUR WITH MIKE POSNER, THE BAD RABBITS ARE ON A ROLL.
Interview by JAMALL OLUOKUN
PHOTO BY JULIAN GILBERT
Members of Bad Rabbits from left to right: Santiago Araujo (guitar), Salim Akram (guitar), Fredua “Dua” Boakye (vocals), Sheel Dave (drums) and Graham Masser (bass).

About five years ago, during my time studio collaborating with Kid Cudi backed by Karmaloop. That’s the short
at Northeastern University in Boston, I and Travie McCoy? version of everything.
came across a band called Eclectic Col- It’s a great feeling and it puts every-
lective (EC). They had a great sound— thing in perspective. It didn’t happen Most groups usually have one or two
new and refreshing, and I remember overnight, [and] it has been almost eight pieces of merchandise, whereas you
thinking I had never heard anything years and we have worked extremely guys have a fairly robust line which
like it before. In addition to drums, hard for all of this. We had our ups and includes hats, hoodies, tees and
bass and two guitarists, the group had downs, but at the end of the day it final- tanks. What are your thoughts on
a DJ, sax player, trumpet player, some- ly started to pay off. For me personally fashion and music; how important
one on the keys and two vocalists. I was it’s humbling because this opportunity would you say fashion is to what you
blown away after hearing them for the is a privilege, not a right, and a lot of do and who you are?
first time, and supremely confident that people don’t get to be in this position. We Our generation is what Greg Selkoe
I was listening to the next big thing. are just grateful to even have a shot to calls “The Verge Culture;” setting trends
Much to my dismay, however, nothing make music and have people listen to it. in music, fashion, media and technol-
ever materialized. ogy, so I think it’s important to form
After struggling for so long with consistency with fashion and our music.
Until… EC, was there ever a time when you Bands and music have become more of a
thought about calling it quits? What lifestyle as opposed to just records.
Unbeknownst to me, the group was se- kept you going?
cretly undergoing a transformation that There [were] many times and it was On your site ( www.badrabbits.com ),
would lead to something smaller and tough; we spent two years writing and people can either purchase the CD
better. Like many bands before them, rebuilding. We literally have like, 15 of your latest EP (for five dollars),
Eclectic Collective broke up. But in their seven-minute dark, indie-rock-progres- or they can download it for free.
place emerged the Bad Rabbits (BR), a sive songs that never saw the light of Has this tactic been implemented in
game-changing group with their new day. People went bananas when we de- recognition that the music industry
Prince-inspired fusion of Hip-hop, 80s cided we wanted to stop doing EC and has changed? In light of falling CD
Funk, Pop and Soul. Bad Rabbits now basically start fresh. We just stayed true revenue, what other avenues, be-
includes a pared-down roster of Fredua to ourselves and wrote music that we yond touring, are you pursuing.
“Dua” Boakye on vocals, Salim Akram enjoyed playing. Music is supposed to be Ultimately, we just want people to hear
and Santiago Araujo on guitar, Sheel fun and that’s what we did. Good friends the music. We realized that people will
Dave on drums and Graham Masser on make good music. get music however they are comfort-
bass. They always say “good things come able getting it, whether it’s buying it on
to those to wait,” but I would say quick- A lot of people are applauding your iTunes, buying the actual CD to “sup-
er yet to those who create. Out of what cool sound, but something I think is port the band” or downloading it for free
seemed like the end of something spe- overlooked is your brand. From your via a torrent site or from our website. As
cial, the bad boys of Bad Rabbits were logo, to the merchandise—even your long as people get it somehow, [that’s]
able to move on to their next act. And, website. Bad Rabbits has a strong all that matters. We focus on having a
as an original fan, I’m excited to sit back identity; how did this come about? live show that makes people have a good
and enjoy the show. We have been fortunate to work with time, which is what people need. People
Karmaloop and Merch Direct. They are tired, broke and all kinds of depres-
Your sound is very unique; your bio have worked with us to help us build sion shit, [laughs] so focusing on CD
has dubbed it “New Crack Swing”. a brand, [as well as] consistency with sales for us at this stage in our career
How do you typically go about creat- our music and merchandise. Our first would have been foolish. It turned out
ing your music? Is it lyrics first, bass run with merchandise was all over the that it worked really well to do both.
first, etc? Or do you just experiment place, and it was very hard to pinpoint a
and freestyle until something sticks? “brand,” if you will. But our newer stuff, What does the future hold for Bad
It’s a lot simpler [than] people would with the gang hands and logo, has be- Rabbits? Any interesting news/events
expect. There isn’t one main songwriter; come our thing. We wanted something people should be on the lookout for?
we all contribute and put parts together. clean and timeless and classic. We are just about finished with our al-
It could start with a drum, bass, guitar bum [that] we did with Teddy Riley (pro-
or vocal melody and we build off of that. How exactly did your partnership ducer for Michael Jackson, Lady Gaga,
We have [Protools] set up in our space, with Karmaloop come about? Blackstreet, GUY). It should be ready to
so we just demo ideas right there on the Our drummer Sheel worked at Kar- put out at some point in the early half of
spot. After that we take the ideas home maloop for five years and has a great 2011. We are working on recording and
and just build on the idea, structure, etc. relationship with the CEO Greg Sel- writing more right now so we can hope-
koe. Fashion and music have always fully put out a new single by the end of
I remember the days when you gone together and Greg had always the year. We also have a remix record
were EC and performing at North- been interested in getting involved coming out in the next few weeks and
eastern’s Afterhours. How does in music. Once BR got its foundation we have some big tour news that we
it feel to go from that to being on Greg jumped on board. We are the can’t announce just yet. It’s going to be
tour with Mike Posner, and in the first [artists] to be fully affiliated and a dope year.
13
REALITY:
THERE’S AN APP FOR THAT
JUST HOW MUCH HAS THE RAPID BOOM IN TECHNOLOGY AFFECTED OUR DAILY LIVES?
Written by ERIN BERRY
Every day we are bombarded with advertisements for

what our world would be like if we owned a certain cell
phone, computer, e-reader or any of those other funky digi-
tal gadgets that can fit into the palm of our hands. Com-
mercials boast the ability to retrieve any bit of informa-
tion instantaneously, be it a song, driving directions or the
name of that actor in that movie you can’t think of. Almost
anything, from viewing ancient Stonehenge to playing a
musical instrument, has been compacted into a neat lit-
tle digital experience for anyone to enjoy at the touch of
a button. As positive and stimulating as this may sound,
the accessible world we live in today does have its down-
falls, which counterbalance—if not outweigh—the positive
aspects. This rapid boom in technology has negatively af-
fected our personal relationships and human interactions,
our intelligence and our overall experience with the tan-
gible world.
We have all been frustrated by the attempt to reach
a living, breathing customer service representative over
the phone, only to be in communication with a computer-
ized voice that thought we just said “Salad Bowl,” when we
clearly said “Superbowl.” But, as annoying as these “phone
robots” can be when we are trying to order something or
pay a bill, we are rapidly moving our social lives onto the
internet, to play out digitally rather than in the “so passe”
third dimension. Jaron Lanier, computer scientist and musi-
cian, writes in his manifesto You Are Not a Gadget about his
frustrations with the rise of technology and its negative ef-
fects on our society. Lanier comments about social networks PHOTO BY YUTAKA TSUTANO
and how we are lowering our standards of personal relation-
ships in order to conform to the network: has turned out fatal on more than one occasion. Teenagers
and young adults (not to mention immature older adults)
I know quite a few people...who are proud to say that they find it easy to insult and berate others when they are hid-
have accumulated thousands of friends on Facebook. Obvi-
ing behind a digital wall of anonymity. I fully understand
ously this statement can only be true if the idea of friendship
is reduced. A real friendship ought to introduce each person
that computers don’t kill people—people kill people—but it
to unexpected weirdness in the other. Each acquaintance is is far easier to hit one button on a hot-blooded, angry im-
an alien, a well of unexplored difference in the experience pulse in the privacy of one’s own home than it is to say the
of life that cannot be imagined or accessed in any way, but same insult in person. In that sense, someone who maybe
through genuine interaction. The idea of friendship in data- just needed time to “cool off ” is given the opportunity to
base-filtered social networks is certainly reduced from that channel that anger immediately for all to see, which can
(Lanier, 53). have devastating results. Relationships would be stron-
ger and much more amicable if we took the time to go out
This public network of friendship causes more prob-
to lunch together; spent time sans-communication to al-
lems in relationships than did the days of face-to-face in-
low the chance to miss each other; made the expression “I
teraction. Such frequent communication has put romantic
love you” really mean something by saying it to his or her
relationships in jeopardy because every couple becomes a
smiling face instead of posting it on Facebook; and lastly,
Brangelina on the cover of US Weekly. The reason celebrity
smiled at strangers just because, instead of keeping our
relationships have a reputation of being short-lived is be-
eyes glued to our cell phones.
cause they are constantly being scrutinized by the media.
Another observation is the effect technology has had
When this scrutiny is pulled out of Hollywood and into the
on our intelligence—to put it bluntly, we are getting stu-
world of “regular” people through social networks, we are
pider. Technology has changed the way we do many of our
likely to have more conflicts. The internet has also led to
day-to-day activities. For example, we used to pull out a
tragic, darker problems in some cases; digital harassment

map before driving somewhere unfamiliar and write down pare to the antique smell and hush of a museum, or the
directions, with the notion that if we did happen to get off feel of cold white piano keys beneath our fingers? Almost
track we could always ask a gas station attendant where everything has been entered into the digital world, but
to turn next. Now, with websites like MapQuest and GPS are we truly “experiencing” what we see on the computer
gadgets, we never have to fear getting lost again. This de- screen? Are we really feeling the same way we would feel
pendency has left many of us with a limited knowledge in its physical presence?
of local geography and clueless when it comes to reading Lanier expresses what I feel is the essence of a true
a map. How many people do you know that still plug an “experience” of something, an experience that employs all
address into their GPS even if it is a location they go to five of our senses:
frequently? The joy of “getting lost” has been replaced by
direct, straight-to-the destination routes that eliminate A digital image of an oil painting is forever a representation,
not a real thing. A real painting changes with time; cracks ap-
pear on its face. It has texture, odor, and a sense of presence
and history (Lanier, 133).
IT SEEMS THAT A PERSON CAN NO LONGER
GO OUT FOR A WALK ALONE, OR TO GRAB A There may be a time in the near future that these
BITE, WITHOUT FEELING THE URGE TO CALL “representations” of real things become even more realis-
tic than they already are, but I believe that nothing will
SOMEONE TO TALK ABOUT NOTHING, OR TEXT ever beat the real thing. Next time you are in the city—or
JUST TO LOOK BUSY. IS THIS REALLY WHAT anywhere in public—look around and try to find someone
who is not typing on a laptop, texting or holding a cell
THE WORLD HAS COME TO, WHEN A PERSON phone up to their ear as if it were biologically part of the
CAN’T EVEN GO OUT IN PUBLIC WITHOUT BE- body. How many do you see? Are people so wrapped up in
ING FUSED TO SOME GADGET? their digital world that they are not noticing or partici-
pating in the physical world around them? It seems that
a person can no longer go out for a walk alone, or to grab
the possibility of finding interesting back roads and hid- a bite, without feeling the urge to call someone to talk
den gems only the locals know about, which we would have about nothing, or text just to look busy. Is this really what
otherwise run into if we needed to ask for directions. After the world has come to, when a person can’t even go out
all, who needs an uncomfortable interaction with a com- in public without being fused to some gadget? Computers
plete stranger when we can just have a robotic woman tell are not going to disappear any time soon, and honestly, I
us where to go, without even having to get out of our cars hope they don’t. I do hope, however, that people can learn
into the fresh air? to survive at least a few days without, and really enjoy the
Not only are paper maps going out of fashion, comput- world around them.
ers have also made dictionaries and other reference ma- A recent advertisement for the new Windows phone
terials obsolete. Why teach proper spelling and grammar embraces this attitude with the message, “a phone to
when we have a computer behind us with a broom, sweep- save us from our phones.” In the commercials people are
ing up all of our linguistic mistakes? Small little spelling oblivious to accidents that they have caused on the street
mishaps are quickly cleared away by the computer before and to their friends and family calling for their attention
we can even catch them, making our brain assume what because they are so focused on their cell phones. This is
we typed was correct because we don’t see the trusty squig- probably the most realistic mobile advertisement I have
gly red line beneath it. Lanier comments about another seen, and it’s quite effective. I am more likely to purchase
word program feature that allows the computer to use past a phone that pokes fun of the product, than one that prac-
knowledge of your typing behavior to assume what you tically fuses itself to my hands (Droid commercials, any-
want to do with a particular document. He mentions how one?). The media will play a significant role in helping
the feature changes the format of an entire document even people wake from their computer comas and join the real
if that was not the typist’s intent: world again.
At the end of the day, humans and technology can live
From my point of view, this type of design feature is non-
sense, since you end up having to work more than you would
in harmony, so long as we realize that nothing can truly
otherwise in order to manipulate the computer’s expecta- replicate the way we perceive ourselves and the world
tions of you. The real function of the feature isn’t to make around us. We should not try to advance computers so
life easier for people; instead, it promotes a new philosophy, much that we become obsolete, just like maps and books
that the computer is evolving into a life-form that can under- and instruments. Lanier sums up perfectly the unique-
stand people better than people can understand themselves. ness of human beings:
(Lanier, 28)
“What is a person?’ If I knew the answer to that, I might be
Although this thought may sound like the work of able to program an artificial person in a computer. But I can’t.
popular science fiction, it parallels the direction in which Being a person is not a pat formula, but a quest, a mystery, a
our technological advances are heading. Computers are be- leap of faith” (Lanier, 5).
coming so intuitive that we underestimate our own intel-
lectual abilities. After all, if the computer says it’s right, it There is no digital copy for anticipation, for friend-
must be right. Right? ship, for knowledge, for culture, for awe or for love—those
Overall, technology has negatively affected the way intangible concepts that we cannot recreate, but only ex-
we perceive, enjoy and experience the real world. Yes, it’s perience with every individual nerve of our being.
very convenient that we can take a virtual museum tour
References
and play the piano on our iPad, but does that even com- Lanier, J. (2010). You Are Not a Gadget: A Manifesto. New York: Alfred A. Knopf.
15
BOYS
BOYS
BOYS Photography by EMILY BYROM
Assistant NICCI CHAPMAN
Make-up by LEAH MABE for MAC
Hair by DARREN AGYEI-DUA
Wardrobe/Styling by REEMÉ IDRIS
1st Styling Assistant EDDIE BLAGBROUGH
2nd Styling Assistant CIANNA CANNING
Models
ROB (OXYGEN), FREDRIK (M&P MODELS), ARTHUR (AMCKMODELS),
DAVID (AMCKMODELS), WILL (AMCKMODELS)
17
OPPOSITE:
Will wears JENNY
SCHWARZ shirt, scarf
and jacket
THIS PAGE:
Fredrik wears
BOLONGARO TREVOR
hooded sweater, jackets
and wool trousers
19
THIS PAGE:
Rob, David, Will and
Arthur all wear MARK
LORD BESPOKE suits,
tail coats and shirts;
Fredrik (center) wears
MARK LORD BESPOKE
waistcoat and neck tie
and JENNY SCHWARZ
shirt and trousers

21
OPPOSITE:
Rob wears NICO
DIDONNA jacket, coat
and trousers
THIS PAGE:
David wears STEVE
CORCORAN trousers and
NICO DIDONNA shirt and
jacket; waistcoat and
belt are stylist’s own
23
OPPOSITE:
Will wears STEVE
CORCORAN jacket
and POSTHUMAN
WARDROBE shirt; David
wears STEVE CORCORAN
jacket and JENNY
SCHWARZ jumper;
Fredrik wears: STEVE
CORCORAN jacket and
JENNY SCHWARZ top
THIS PAGE:
Arthur wears jumper
by BOLONGARO TREVOR
and trousers by
JENNY SCHWARZ
BEAUTY NOTES: For the boys, make-up artist Leah Mabe used MAC Pro Longwear Foundation and Mineralize Skinfinish Powder.
25
FASHION BLOGGING IN A
HISTORICAL CONTEXT
JUST HOW DO WE DEFINE THE “FASHION BLOG” AT THIS POINT IN TIME?
Written by CHRISTINE MASTRANGELO
Fashion and historical change are intrinsically linked. blogs registered” and, “Technorati said in 2008 there were two
Eighteenth-century French revolutionaries defied order by million.” The disparity of these numbers reflects the ocean-like
dressing sans-culottes, women of the 1920s disrobed from vastness of the web, and the nature of the fashion blog itself,
full skirts and danced in sheath-like flapper dresses, girls of as a medium of expression. “Fashion blogger” is not unlike the
the 1960s bore their legs in miniskirts and in 2008 young term “artist.” What makes an artist is his or her audience, the
Americans exchanged apathy for Obama t-shirts. In each reception that is received and how we define art itself.
case, what was worn was a way to communicate—larger than So, how do we define the fashion blog at this point in
a badge, more of a symbol. As the year 2010 comes to a close, time? Anna Wintour and Steve Jobs state relevant points: if
the fashion community looks back on the last decade as yet we are indeed becoming a “nation of bloggers,” where “every-
another period of momentous change, in which the blog was one’s a fashion editor, everyone’s a fashion writer”—how is a
introduced, and proved to be quite tumultuous: blogger to set his or herself apart from the other 1,999,999 in
existence? We are past the fashion blog’s in-utero state (e.g.
“We love as much coverage of fashion as possible. We don’t care Live Journal), infancy (e.g. Blogger and Word Press emerge)
at all where it comes from, and we embrace bloggers and video
and adolescence (e.g. growing pains of traditional media ver-
and social networking, and anyone that’s talking about fashion
is a good thing. And we now have our own website that incor-
sus new). Fashion blogging is now like a teenager—a beauti-
porates all of that. But I think what’s interesting to us with ful and witty one—who has come into her own and is left to
this new phenomenon that ‘everyone’s a fashion editor, every- create her own future.
one’s a fashion writer’ is that all of that actually helps Vogue, The metrics are easy to identify. Bloggers know every-
because we have access and the understanding of fashion that, thing from the country to the subscribing habits of their read-
forgive me, but maybe some bloggers and some of the newcom- ers. A blog’s success is measured by the number of page views,
ers to this world have a little bit less experience of, but as I unique hits, followers, returning users, etc. “The more the bet-
said, the more the merrier. We embrace it.”—Anna Wintour
ter” is the usual adage. Yet, size has proven to be somewhat
(New York Magazine, “The Cut”, April 20, 2010)
problematic. Those fashion bloggers who have made house-
hold names out of themselves (at least in the houses that pay
“I don’t want us to become a nation of bloggers myself. I think attention to such things) are undoubtedly facing the challeng-
we need editorial more than ever right now.”—Steve Jobs es that come with their blog’s immense size. Many have hired
(The All Things D Conference 2010) publicists and managers to seek opportunities, collaborations
and advertisements, which negate the act of the individual,
As old media struggled with accepting the new, bloggers personal discovery that makes blogs feel so adventurous and
continued to do what they loved and proved there was fun to fun. There has always been a certain fear around the fashion
be had along the way. Isn’t that why we read blogs anyway? A blog, as if its potential magnitude would cause it to implode.
more interactive and personal source of tailored content, blogs Charlie Porter of the style journal Fantastic Man, said of Tavi
have become a way for us to play-act the gathering and com- Gevinson that he hopes “[Tavi] sees her blog as the thing,
munication of information that is important to us. The power- rather than as a path to somewhere else” (“Tavi Gevinson:
house fashion bloggers who emerged have become like demi- the 13-year-old blogger with the fashion world at her feet,”
gods. Think Rumi Neely, Susie Lau, Bryanboy, Garance Dore. Eva Wiseman, The Observer, 20 Sept. 2009). Yet bloggers don’t
They seem naturally brilliant, their images are magnetic and really know where that path will lead (I’m sure Tavi never ex-
they possess articulation radiating with personality like some pected to receive that invitation to sit on Oprah’s couch!) and
kind of sun goddess on a boring day. Their influence reach- everyone hopes they will not be compromised along the way.
es tens of thousands of people. They have achieved the near Jane Aldridge of Sea of Shoes had to shut down her readers’
impossible by harnessing time and making a name for them- comments, as a few of the hundred were bound to be negative
selves in the moment just before fashion blogging exploded. and hurtful. By doing so, she ultimately compromised her fos-
Many “followers” are fashion bloggers themselves, which tered community and the dialogue around her style, which—
begs the question: just how many “fashion bloggers” are out as I was under the impression—is what made her popular
there? The search for the number of active fashion blogs in in the first place. Is it better, then, for a blog to remain on a
existence is inexhaustible; there is no true value. Instead, smaller, more manageable scale?
there are statistics taken from multiple reference points In the end, fashion blogging is most like art in the impor-
where said fashion bloggers converge. I asked Jennine Jacob tance of its content; what is presented to its audience creates
of The Coveted (http://the-coveted.com), and founder of Inde- the most significance. For now, it is the lesser-known fashion
pendent Fashion Bloggers (IFB), for direction on how to be- blogger who embodies the spirit of innovation, independence
gin to measure this number. She provided the following: there and creativity in its most primordial sense. At this stage of
are “12,000 members” on IFB, “Bloglovin’ has 200,000 fashion the blog’s evolution, writers must set themselves apart. In my

attempt to capture fashion blogging at this one moment in
time, I’ve profiled the following three bloggers who personify
their craft: Ashe Mischief of Dramatis Personae, Samantha of
The Column of Samantha Tyler and Miguel of Beyond Fabric.
What I have learned from them is this: the dialogue around
fashion has the opportunity to reach the level of philosophy,
fashion should be viewed as a pure form of self-expression and
is thereby entirely attainable and though the majority of fash-
ion bloggers are women, fashion is not inherently female.
Ashe Mischief of Dramatis Personae

http://www.mischiefmydear.com/
Dramatis Personae, as what we wear often reflects how we may
feel on the inside, this fashion blog calls on its readers to “unveil
your mischievous personae” through exploring one’s style. Ashe
Mischief, the talented blogger behind Dramatis Personae, began
blogging “in various forms” in 2001. She categorizes her blog
as a blend of “lifestyle, plus-size, ‘outfit of the day,’ review and
inspirational.” Her most commented-on posts seem to be those
that foster creativity. Ashe recently asked readers to think
about what they would wear if they had the luxury to be some-
one else, prompting inspired ways of rethinking not just one’s
wardrobe, but one’s state of mind in that singular point in time.
Has your blog evolved since you first started it?

It really has evolved so much. I think it evolved between the
idea of making a blog and the first post. Blogging needs to
be a continually evolving process—changing and growing as
a person really connects you with your readers, so you can
share that much more with them. The more they can see of
you on your journey, the more intimate you can become with
your readership. My site changed to reflect the changes in my
life—school, jobs, moving and my emotional and mental needs.
Blogging has become a new way to communicate with

others of the same interests and passions. What are
your thoughts on this?
I absolutely agree! I think one of the reasons I started my blog
was because I was in a very academically-focused city. Many
women treated me like I was below them because I worked in
fashion retail. Blogging gave me an opportunity to reach out
to other men and women who were intelligent, focused, witty,
bright, hardworking and who loved fashion for all that it is.
What advantages to blogging have you experienced?

As I said, it’s an incredible way to meet people who share
the same interests and who can sympathize with the grow-
ing pains of blogging. Really, it’s just being part of a fan-
tastic community. It’s also a great way to learn more about
business, work with companies and really diversify yourself
as a business person!
It seems like you see the fashion blogger community

as supportive, rather than competitive. Thoughts?
It’s a wonderful place filled with many witty, bright and cre-
ative men and women. It’s amazing how diverse the commu-
nity is and it’s incredibly inspiring to be a part of it.
Do you feel as if you have developed an online persona

that is different from yourself?
I think my online persona is a facet of my real personality. Our
blogs are a place where we can be our best, so to speak. It’s not
27
a place where I have to show myself wearing my pajamas all has accumulated a growing readership, with opportunities
the time or focus on a bad hair day. Blogs are a place where we for guest posts and partnerships with menswear stores. A re-
can leave real life problems behind if we want. So while I think cent post is about finding details in men’s clothing as a means
that my online persona may be focused on a few topics, I think to diversify the style of just a tie, pair of slacks and button-
she’s just a segment of myself, not different from. down shirt. Miguel, the blogger behind Beyond Fabric, aims
to “deliver original and meaningful content,” of which he cer-
The Column of Samantha Tyler tainly proves himself capable.
http://samsensibility.blogspot.com/
This blog is an open dialogue on the nature of the experience Why did you begin to blog?
of fashion and—as Samantha herself describes,—is “more I’ve always been in love with fashion, but took on a course in
talkative” than image heavy. Samantha is an extreme cre- civil engineering. I believe the blog is a manifestation of my cre-
ator; she is mainly a writer, but her blog also features her ative, fashion-related inner self. I would love to work in fashion
illustrations, which are vivid and full of life. One category on and [this] seemed the right way to begin this endeavour.
the blog is named “Decoding,” where she questions different
aspects of style and fashion. In a recent Decoding post, she Has your blog evolved since you first started it?
explores our fascination with the shoe and the pain that is This is what has surprised me the most since I’ve started it.
often endured when wearing them. “I am no Cinderella,” she I’m aware that what I write might be interesting for a lot of
proclaims, and asks if it should be considered less feminine people, but I never expected it to have such a repercussion—
for a woman to not covet the heel. especially since in Portugal blogging isn’t given that much
credit to begin with. That’s one of the reasons I’ve decided
How long have you been blogging? to write entirely in English instead of Portuguese, which I
I started blogging five years ago. I stopped for a moment, then believe was one of the best decisions I could’ve made. My
plunged back [in] seven months ago, when I created The Column. blog would never be where it’s at right now if I aimed for a
national audience.
Why did you begin to blog?
I am a writer. I have always written, so when weblogs started Do you believe in types of fashion blogs? If so, what
to appear, it sounded like an obvious way to share my writings would your categories be?
with others. I started writing on fashion by chance; I didn’t re- Well, despite the main focus being fashion and style, I do be-
ally have a fashion project in mind, but then I had one! lieve there are different approaches to the subject. Beyond
Fabric, for instance, is more focused on delivering original
Do you believe in types of fashion blogs? If so, what and meaningful content, than it is about pictures or news.
would your categories be? Without going into much detail I’d say you have: street style,
Yes, I think that there are different types of fashion blogs. inspirational, fashion news and content-based blogs. Beyond
I’ve visited thousands, and I think that there are at least two Fabric would fall under content-based.
categories: the ones with pictures that show their love, and
the ones that are more talkative and try to pick quarrels. I The majority of fashion bloggers are female. How do
think mine is in the second category—at least it tries to be! you see yourself as a male blogger in a predominantly
female trade/art form?
Is it your experience that most of your readers are It’s interesting. No, really; I haven’t felt a bit “discriminat-
bloggers themselves? ed.” Most of my female friend bloggers are great and support
Most people have a blog now, so inevitably your readers are me all the way. It’s great when I find other male bloggers
bloggers too. Ninety percent of my readers are. The ten per- though. Just this week I had a good laugh when the “Links à
cent remaining are people looking for information, for pur- La Mode” from IFB came out as they congratulated another
chases or just pleasure. male blogger for entering the list, because before I was the
only one. Things are starting to change though. You already
What do you think about fashion being an intellectual have amazing menswear blogs like Street Etiquette, Sartori-
discussion? Where fashion and intellect merge? ally Inclined, Unabashedly Prep and Prepidemic.
I think that each time something is discussed, it is indeed
intellectual. Examples of where they merge: if you ask if a Why do you think men should be interested in fashion?
thing is good or bad, useful or not, if you try to understand Idealisms aside, your image is the first perception people
the likes and dislikes of a person and if you think about what get of you. You might argue that what matters is what’s in-
will happen next. side, and the true nature of the person, but on a daily basis
people make decisions based on first impressions, be them
The majority of fashion bloggers are female. Do you conscious or unconsciously. This is true not only from a pro-
think that fashion is inherently female? fessional point of view, where you must be presentable to
Ten years ago, I would have said yes. But now, men are as inspire confidence and responsibility to your peers, but also
interested in fashion as women. Many men are blogging on on a personal level since women admire and are drawn to
fashion, and not only on female clothes. Maybe it is the genu- men who take care of their image. In my case, besides all of
ine male-female parity we were looking for? that, I love fashion and dressing up.
Miguel of Beyond Fabric Thank you to these three bloggers who took time to answer
http://beyondfabric.tumblr.com/ these questions and do what bloggers do best—document
Men’s fashion is just as exciting and interesting as women’s the here and now.
fashion, proven by this menswear blog. Started just three CHRISTINE MASTRANGELO is also a fashion blogger. Read her point
months ago to the day that I am writing this, Beyond Fabric of view over at http://un-stitched.com/.

WHY DO WE LIKE VINTAGE?
MISS AT LA PLAYA BLOGGER MÓNICA PARGA WEIGHS IN ON THE MATTER.
Posted by MÓNICA PARGA
Fashion is experiencing a democratization phenomenon

thanks to an inexhaustible list of high-street labels like Zara,
H&M, Mango and Topshop. Everyone can now dress with
style for less money—and that’s a great thing. Wouldn’t the
world be a better place if everybody dressed elegantly?
The negative about low-cost stores is that you can eas-
ily find someone on the street, at work or at a party wearing
the same outfit that you are. That’s when you wish you hadn’t
bought that recognizable printed dress. In the end, all wom-
en have the same shops available to them and buy the same
things. The trick is in knowing how to mix them, or having a
good eye to detect which piece is going to be a hit (and avoid
it). I once bought a sweater that every single one of my friends
had purchased too; I never took it out of my closet.
Being original implies being “different” to a certain extent,
and not following trends. A trend is something many people do.
And if style is about originality, why be trendy? Wouldn’t it be
more logical to wear “old fashioned” clothes? So, when people 1
ask me about what’s “in” this season, I offer my solution to the
mainstream-or-not debate—vintage clothing.
Vintage is always different, unique and original (i.e. a dress
bought at H&M in 2002 is not vintage). It lets you buy fur coats
without feeling guilty, find amazing skirts that make you look
like a mix between your grandmother and Alexa Chung and
wear the most awesome cat-eye sunglasses ever.
Vintage clothes have aura; a story behind them. Who wore
that cozy sweater before you? What things did she go through
while wrapped up in it? The piece of clothing becomes more
than a well-sewn fabric; it goes through generations, styles,
countries…a Zara t-shirt hasn’t seen the world at all.
What if vintage clothing is a trend itself? Will it disappear...?
4
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: 1. The men’s section at What Goes Around Comes Around (WGAC), a vintage/contemporary retail
store; 2. A snapshot of a vintage store in Paris; 3. Bird Boutique in Brooklyn; 4. The women’s section of WGAC.
3
29
SWEATER FEVER
MODISH BLOGGER JENA CORAY PAYS HOMAGE TO THE CLASSIC WARDROBE STAPLE.
Posted and photographed by JENA CORAY
I have a confession to make: I am a sweater ad-

dict. A hopeless hoarder of knits. A daily craver of
cardigans. Wool makes me drool.
Fall is not only my favorite season because of

the crisp air, golden leaves and grey skies that it
brings—it's my favorite because fall means sweat-
er weather! Time to layer up and break out the old
favorites (and an excuse to go hunting for more).
With the fall weather finally arriving here in

Portland, I thought I'd celebrate with an ode to
some of my treasured closet companions. I did a
photo shoot around my 1950s house starring me,
my kitties and my most beloved sweaters.

31
D I S P L C E D
A
Photography by HELEN TRAN

Hair/Make-up by HAYLEY ALYS
Wardrobe/Styling by CHRISTOPHER MASSARDO
Model KATE STAFFORD (ELITE)
Clothing provided by VICTOIRE BOUTIQUE, Ottawa, Canada.

Dress by PRELOVED
33
THIS PAGE AND NEXT:
Dress by EVE GRAVEL; shoes, pants
and accessories are stylist’s own
35
OPPOSITE:
Dress by PRELOVED; gloves
are stylist’s own.
THIS PAGE:
Top and sweater by
PRELOVED
BEAUTY NOTES:
FACE: MAKE UP FOR EVER Foundation #117; CHEEK: YABY COSMETICS Blush #015; EYES: MAKE UP FOR EVER eyeshadow in #24 “Cantaloupe”, #35 “Buff” and #101 “Lemon
Shimmer”, YABY COSMETICS in #442 “Sand Dune”; MAKE UP FOR EVER Aqua Smoky Lash in“Rich Black”; BROWS: YABY COSMETICS Brow Powder #005; LIPS: YABY COSMETICS
lip color in “Innocent Trap”.
37
Maria www.mariahamiltondesigns.com
Hamilton Designs
ON THE
VERGE
THIS MONTH’S ON THE VERGE FEATURE BRINGS YOU THREE VERY TALENTED
JEWELRY DESIGNERS WITH THREE VERY DIFFERENT BACKGROUNDS AND STYLES.
39
ETHICALLY PLEASING
ANNA ALICIA PROVES YOU CAN LOOK GOOD WHILE DOING GOOD.
Interview by NICOLE BECHARD
The basics: name and where you’re from? studio, this is more an issue of what materials I use. Wher-
Anna Alicia, I live and work in East London, UK. ever possible, I choose organic fair-trade fabrics, alongside
vintage elements such as chains and beads. This can be re-
Education credentials? strictive in many ways, but I love the challenge of making the
For my first degree, I studied Art History and Theory. I most of what I am able to get my hands on!
then moved to London to do a MA in Fine Arts at Central
St. Martins. Having an online store allows you the freedom to
reach customers all over the globe. Have you noticed
Do you feel that your undergraduate study of art any interesting patterns in clientele and/or where
history has influenced your jewelry design at all? your sales come from?
Definitely! It’s hard to pin it down exactly. I think just looking In the UK I do sell a lot to Londoners, but I think that’s prob-
at so much art, from such diverse eras—I studied a really wide ably just because there are so many of us squeezed into this
range of periods from Byzantine icons to Modernist architec- city! I also sell a lot to customers in the US, but I think a re-
ture!—really gave me a deep well of inspiration to draw from. newed interest in handmade products is growing worldwide.
Is there any particular time period or movement that What is your favorite piece and why?
inspires you the most? My favorite piece from the current collection is the “Encrust-
I’ve always had a particular fascination for Japanese craft. I ed Necklace” with vintage beads—it was inspired by memo-
think it’s something about the amazing skill and labor that goes ries of growing crystals on strings with my science kit as a
into producing something that appears so simple and reserved. kid (I was always a total geek).
Do you have any favorite contemporary artists? Who? Do you have any plans to expand your brand beyond
I guess I should say my husband, Stuart Elliot, really! He jewelry/accessories? Wardrobe perhaps?
makes beautiful abstract paintings. You can view his work I don’t have any intention to branch out into clothes, but I
here: http://www.dicksmithgallery.co.uk/ga/se_8.html. do love interiors and have long been thinking about home
accessories. So maybe...
Ethical and environmental concerns are central
to your collections; have these issues always been What can we expect from A Alicia in the future?
important to you? I’m currently planning my S/S 2011 collection, which will
I’ve certainly been very aware of my own moral beliefs since be all about bright colors and vivid vintage fabrics, in con-
an early age (I decided to become a vegetarian at the age of 8!) trast to my current softer, more pared-down winter collec-
and I’ve tried to shop as ethically as possible for some time. tion. Apart from that, my aim is just to keep building up my
In a sense, working these values into my collections felt like business—I believe an increasing global interest in ethical
more of a necessity than a choice. I just couldn’t stomach the fashion will result in more responsible production of mate-
idea of making my living based directly on the exploitation of rials, as well as a greater range of ethically-produced lines
other people. in stores.
How do you practice such beliefs in your designs? Do Links and other self-promotion:
you find such methods restrictive? My main collection: www.aalicia.bigcartel.com
As all my accessories are handmade by me in my London Contact: a.alicia.accessories@googlemail.com

OPPOSITE: Macra Knitted Cord Necklace; THIS PAGE clockwise from top: Encrusted Necklace with vintage beads, Six Cord Knitted Necklace (available in other colors) and
Contrast Knitted Cord Collar Necklace with vintage button. All photography by Anna Alicia.
41
NATURAL BEAUTY
ILEANA ROJAS-BENNETT IS INSPIRED BY THE COLORS OF THE RAINFOREST.
The basics: name and where you’re from?

Ileana Rojas-Bennett. Born in San Jose Costa Rica; currently
based in Greenville, NC.
Education credentials?
A Masters in Education/PanAmerican University, Costa Rica
and [I was] taught art by my mother who was an established
artist in Costa Rica.
What is the inspiration behind your brand?

I consider myself a child of nature. Growing up surrounded
by rainforests and volcanoes, it gets in your blood. I take the
colors and textures from my life experiences and turn them
into jewelry.
How did you become involved in jewelry design?

What about this particular field drew you in?
What woman doesn’t adore jewelry!? I have always loved
all art forms and searched for the one medium that suited
me. I worked with stained glass creating large and detailed PHOTO BY SPRY LEE SCOTT
panels for awhile, enjoying the glowing colors when the sun L-R: Nolcha President Arthur Mandel, 2010 “Beyond The Runway” winner Ileana Rojas-
hit them just right. Next, I began to fuse smaller pieces of Bennett and Nolcha CEO Kerry Bannigan.
glass into pendants in my kilns, eventually creating fused

glass earrings, bracelets and ring stones. When these items everyone else went on to other things. After discovering my an-
became popular locally, I decided to move forward and use cestry, I realized how art for the Maleku Indians isn’t just a
semi-precious stones to create even more dazzling pieces. form of expression but a way of life. Obviously it has to be in our
These were so popular I went into business selling them— genes after being passed down from generation to generation.
and here I am!
Do you feel that your cause has brought more aware-
Your pieces are so beautiful and intricate! On average, ness to the Maleku tribes?
how much time do you put into each piece? I surely hope so. They ask for so little but need so much. I’ll
For my big pieces, the design process can take several hours find out when I get back to Costa Rica because I haven’t visit-
to perfect. The actual making can take days, depending on ed since my last donation. [Editor’s note: part of the proceeds
whether I’m setting it in silver or stringing a necklace. Ear- from all Maleku Jewelry Designs’ sales are donated to the
rings generally take the least time, since I usually match Maleku Indians.]
them to a necklace. The color patterns are already estab-
lished; it’s just a matter of putting it all together. You recently received the 2010 “Beyond the Runway
Award” at the conclusion of New York Fashion Week
What is your favorite part of the design process? this year. That must’ve been so exciting for you!
My favorite part of the design process is choosing colors! I’m You just can’t imagine how it felt to see so much talent in one
crazy about different color combinations and this is when I event, and be chosen. I honestly wasn’t even considering the
can really feel creative. possibility that I had a chance. I am very proud of my ability
and what I can do, but I was in the running with established
I understand your mother is an artist and much of your clothing designers! It was a proud, proud moment for me.
inspiration draws upon her and her work. Have you
ever collaborated on a project and/or would you like to? What can we expect to see from the Maleku brand in
My mother is actually a painter, and although we painted the future?
together when I was a little girl, we have never collaborated My priorities include launching a matching line that can be
on a project. I would love to have a gallery exhibition featur- easily carried in fine boutiques and stores country-wide that
ing her paintings and my jewelry pieces [together] someday. will appeal to the fashionista in all women. A new website is
also on the horizon, and even bigger and more dazzling state-
How do you feel your Maleku heritage has influenced ment pieces are on the drawing board.
your work?
Well, I knew I was artistically developed beyond what my Links and other self promotion:
friends were. As I got older, I never left my art even though www.malekujewelry.com

PHOTO BY S. FECHO
PHOTO BY S. FECHO
I CONSIDER MYSELF A CHILD OF

NATURE. GROWING UP SURROUNDED
BY RAINFORESTS AND VOLCANOES, IT
GETS IN YOUR BLOOD. SO I TAKE THE
COLORS AND TEXTURES FROM MY
LIFE EXPERIENCES AND TURN THEM
PHOTO BY R. SHAWN INTO JEWELRY.
43
EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED
AZHAND SHOKOHI’S PIECES ARE ANYTHING BUT ORDINARY.
The basics: name and where you’re from? see [their] facial expressions. I like to see happiness, admi-
Azhand Shokohi, born in Tehran, Iran. ration, surprise and unexpectedness in their faces. So, the
answer to your question is yes; I love the unexpected!
Education:
Dual Bachelor of Science in Fashion Design (BS in both You use such a variety of materials! Do you feel that
Design and Product Development) from University Of they dictate the design of your pieces or are you more
Cincinnati, College of Design, Architecture, Art and in control?
Planning (DAAP), 2002. I am in control. I am more creative when I don’t have the me-
diums available to me. I think of a material and what I could
As a Persian-born designer, do you feel that your design with it, then I imagine all the possibilities and com-
heritage heavily inspires your work? binations. This was exactly the concept behind my jewelry
Without a doubt. I absolutely believe my creativity lies upon designs. I wanted to design a jewelry line that would stand
my heritage. Persia is one of the oldest cultures in the world out from any other designs in the market. I didn’t want to do
and has always been an influence globally as well as person- the traditional gold, silver, chains and pearls.
ally. Many designers follow the Middle East in their work as
much as I do. Do you find your materials or do they find you?
I find them. I’m not exactly sure when or how an inspiration
Your parents acknowledged your talents as an artist; comes to mind. I might be thinking about something not even
however you had to persuade them to accept your relevant to a design concept, and then it just comes.
vocation as a designer. How do they feel about your
work now? Do you enjoy the opportunity to have clients play a
I knew I wanted to design the day my mother taught me to knit role in the design process of your personalized, made-
and sew at the age of 10. I designed jewelry and clothing just to-order pieces?
for myself. I couldn’t wait to wear them to see the reactions in Absolutely. I like hearing different ideas and understanding the
family and friends. My father and mother were very creative client’s desire. I want to reach their expectations. The client’s
and artistic, which leads me to believe that I got my dexterity reaction, happiness and satisfaction is what’s most rewarding.
from them. I followed their wishes to try and become a respect-
able, professional doctor. After a few years in college I decided to Have you ever collaborated with other artists/design-
take the plunge and follow what I was born to do. My parents ers? Would you like to?
realized my struggle and unhappiness and wished me the best No I haven’t. I hope to get that opportunity someday; I think
because they knew I was creative; there was never any doubt. it would be a fantastic revolution.
Sadly, I have lost both my parents in the last seven years. My
mother had a chance to attend the DAAP College fashion show What can we expect from your brand in the future?
my senior year and was overwhelmed. She said, “I knew you Well, my brand is expanding as I write this. I just came out
were good but I didn’t expect this. You are a designer.” My father with my first clothing line collection for Spring 2011, Made in
did get to see pictures, and said that he always knew I was tal- USA. This collection is elegant, chic and fashionable with a
ented and was very proud of what I had become. I think if they combination of red, ivory, mustard and gold colors. I am also
were here now, they wouldn’t be so surprised by my creations. getting ready to come out with a new and fashionable clutch
purse design. I will, of course, continue with my jewelry line
How was working for Ralph Lauren? Do you find and who knows what is next!
your job there influenced your work at all?
I worked for Warnaco Group with the Chaps® collection. You Links and other self-promotion:
might say it was a colorful experience, as I assisted with color- Please visit www.azhandshokohi.com and
coding for the Polo Men’s division, including other duties. I http://www.facebook.com/pages/azhand-shokohi/149271050717
have always admired the Ralph Lauren brand. Ralph is the
pioneer of classy and timeless designs.
Your pieces are both sculptural and conceptual; has

this always been the nature of your work or was it
more of an evolution in process?
I always say that I am an artist who happens to be a designer.
I like to create. I like to push the boundaries. I want to create
something different that will attract the observer. I love to
OPPOSITE TOP CENTER: Photography by Sarah Beth Smith, model is Courtney Myers,
hair by Rachel Osborn and clothing by Azhand Shokohi
45
BEYOND BALMAIN:
A VISIT TO THE SOURCE OF MILITARY’S INFLUENCE ON THE RUNWAY.
Written by NORA E. S. GILLIGAN
The entire Design, Pattern and Prototype Team (DPPT) from L-R: Cara Tuttle, Christine Reffel, Team Leader Annette LaFleur, Magdalena Mulherin, Carrie Rutkowski (admin. and design
assistant), Lynne Hennessey, design intern John Daly, and Nicole Killian (seated). All photos by David Kamm US Army NSRDEC.
Annette LaFleur is not who I expected. With her long, tions behind the combat boots and bomber jackets that have
blonde hair, matte pink lips and form-fitting black dress, some worked their way into civilian fashion legacy.
might wonder what she’s doing behind the heavy security of a
U.S. Army facility, when I envision her somewhere more glam- The DPPT team: on a mission to empower, unburden
orous, say, designing for Gucci or another high-fashion house. A and protect
graduate of Lasell College’s Fashion Design program, Annette’s Annette comes from an ancestry of New England corsetieres
not going anywhere anytime soon: “[the] more time I spent and wedding gown designers. Creativity runs in her family, and
[with the military], the more I enjoyed my career and how it’s though she knew she would put her talents in clothing illustra-
progressed here. I like the whole general idea of research and tion, flat-pattern making and sewing knits to use, she never
development for the Soldier. I plan on staying.” Good thing, be- imagined it would be with the military. I was curious as to what
cause the girl knows what she’s doing. drew the DPPT members to Natick—it was hard to imagine
Annette is the Design, Pattern and Prototype Team that designing chemical garments and helmet covers was high
(DPPT) Leader at the U.S. Army Natick Soldier Research, on the list for most aspiring fashion graduates. Whether com-
Development and Engineering Center (NSRDEC), a global ing right out of school or from work experience, most on the
forerunner in military protective clothing located just outside team described how they initially “fell into the job,” and then
Boston. On a mission to dig a little deeper into the military found a truly unique and fulfilling opportunity.
trends currently dominating the runway, I had the opportu- Work at Natick allows designers to push their boundaries
nity to meet with this energetic beauty and her team of eight and maximize their strengths; it also offers them a crucial role
rockstar designers—Heather, Lynne, Nicole, Christine, Mag- in the mission to “empower, unburden and protect America’s
dalena, Cara, John and Carrie. A studio tour and interview Warfighters.” Each designer under Annette’s supervision is cho-
session left me a little overwhelmed, a lot in awe, and with sen for their ultra-creativity, comprehensive understanding of
a newfound respect for the people, processes and innova- clothing production and expert sewing skills. Team members

are versatile, and learn the ins and outs of all the technical as-
pects of design more than they might otherwise. In the standard
fashion industry you are typically working in just one area (e.g.
pattern-making, sample-grading, sewing, etc.); DPPT designers
are able to see their projects through to the end—from the idea
stage to mass production. Annette comments, “As a young per-
son out of school, you think you can sew until you’ve worked
here. Government truly teaches you to think outside the box.”
I am distracted by Nicole’s adorable headband and forget
for a second that I’m not in, say, Marc Jacobs’ studio. Then the
group fires off a list of the products they work on and I’m shot
back to reality: “Army Combat Uniforms (ACU), Joint Chemi-
cal/Biological Coverall Suits (JC3), ballistic items, cold weath-
er clothing, field dress, Explosive-Ordinance Disposal Suits
(EOD)…” Although difficult to keep up with the acronyms and
terminology, it’s obvious that the team’s responsibilities are
high-level and critical to the safety and well-being of human
lives. The team recalls emails and feedback they have received
from soldiers saying that what they worked on affected a life
—or saved it—in some way. Again, Marc’s studio this is not.
The process: from visionary ideas to the Warfighter’s

solution
I wish we had taken a picture. While sitting in on a demonstra-
tion of DPPT’s Computer-Aided Design (CAD) equipment, Re-
tired Lieutenant Colonel David Accetta walks through, holding
a massive vest (rather, body armor). He tells me to put it on,
and after struggling in with some assistance, it’s all I can do not
to fall over on my face. “Heavy, huh,” David remarks, matter-
of-factly. I learn that I am wearing the Improved Outer Tacti-
cal Vest (IOTV), which weighs approximately 20 pounds as I
have it on. Insert the vest’s ballistic plates (or Enhanced Small
Arms Protective Inserts (ESAPI), to the initiated), and the vest
weighs in at 33 pounds. “Once a Soldier has all his weapons,
ammunition, first aid and other survival and protective equip-
ment for combat, the vest and associated equipment can weigh
roughly 75 pounds or more.” How’s that for perspective?
The production process for a garment like the IOTV is
comprehensive and each step critical. Every piece designed
by Annette’s team begins as a conversation with military or
contracted project managers, who provide guidelines of what
needs to be created or modified (sometimes DPPT works to
improve upon existing items). After multiple sketches, col-
laboration with subject matter experts and research on rel-
evant commercial items, technologies, fabrics and closures,
the first pattern is drafted either by hand or CAD. Sample
sizes are produced and evaluated by the customer. Given the
go-ahead, Natick goes out to have limited numbers produced
for fit tests and user-evaluation; these will be tweaked and
modified until the “100 percent design solution” is reached.
Patterns are then sized out, (graded) in the CAD system,
and sent to the selected manufacturing plant for production.
DPPT sometimes remains involved at this stage, assisting
manufacturers with specific sewing operations.
“[Our] design requirements are at such a high level—
every single piece of equipment and clothing has such a specific Designer Nicole Killian (above); A Soldier in body armor and Army Combat Helmet.
size tariff and purpose,” states Annette, reminding me of the
higher purpose here. Fit and functionality will dictate whether
a sniper overheats in hot desert climates or if an EOD tech-
nician will survive a bomb detonation. Annette continues: “I
can’t just walk into Donna Karan and decide, ‘I want to copy
that dress pattern.’ It may take long periods of time for certain
technologies [and] designs to be incorporated into fielded gar-
ments…[so at the end stage], it is very rewarding to see one of
our designs fielded.” Each DPPT designer’s skill set fits a criti-
47
cal piece of the whole; as Heather puts it: “[we start with] a vi- some other missions, they realigned their priorities for the day
sion and actually design concepts into a tangible and functional so they could help out the Soldier and get him back to Fort Bragg
reality, which eventually improves the life of a Soldier.” with a solution in hand. They found the right material and then
designed and fabricated a number of special pockets to hold the
pads and make this trooper’s helmet fit correctly and comfortably.
Inspiration and innovation: the fashion engineers
In 2004, DPPT’s updated version of the Army Combat Uniform Another example is an extraction harness that the team
won an award as one of the top ten inventions for the U.S. Army played a role in developing. Used to pull a soldier out of a tank
(annual nominations most often go to war machinery, such as in case of danger or injury, the previous harness design would
aircraft carriers; the fact that a clothing item won was huge). pull up on the soldier’s uniform and potentially choke him or
Prior to this year, the Army had been using the same battle- her; the new pulley system allows for an easy slide out. Says
dress uniform since the early 1980s; soldiers had to have one Lynne, “we often get our best ideas just driving in a car.”
uniform each for desert, urban and woodland areas. With the Natick has every type of textile technology available to
introduction of “universal camouflage,” one uniform was suffi- them, from seam-sealers that stitch perfect seams with chem-
cient for any war environment. The Natick team is currently ical-leak resistant Gortex, to an ultrasonic machine that cuts
working in conjunction with Crye Associates on the next camou- and seals synthetic webbing. An entire room is dedicated to
flage style called MultiCam® (currently being issued to soldiers the studio’s massive CAD system, which masters Christine
in Afghanistan as its seven-color, multi-environment pattern is and Nicole use to create and alter patterns. At the time of my
advantageous for the different types of terrain in the country). visit, the team was looking forward to the delivery of a new
Research and development (R&D) is a majorly exciting multi-ply “cutter.” Linked to CAD, the machine receives data
component of work at Natick, and Annette says at times her and cuts patterns; the multi-ply version will allow the design-
work is “more like being an engineer than in high fashion.” ers to cut into heavier fabrics, like the ballistic material Kevlar.
Indeed, the team has a close relationship with military engi- Exotic textiles such as this play a large role in R&D. Annette’s
neers, and when presented with a design problem the groups team travels a few times a year to U.S. tradeshows and sport
work together to analyze and think through solutions. Lieu- and hunting arenas to see what commercial materials are out
tenant Colonel Accetta recalls a paratrooper’s recent visit from there and how they can be tweaked for military use (under
Fort Bragg, NC, for special assistance fitting his helmet: the Berry Amendment, all garments, fabrics, fibers and other
This young Soldier had difficulty comfortably wearing the stan-
components must be domestically produced, manufactured or
dard helmet and came to see some of our engineers to adjust grown). Like any industry design team, DPPT keeps an archive
the inside pads to make it fit properly and safely. The engineers of fabric swatches and can commission a one-of-a kind material
determined that he needed a special custom-made helmet pad when necessary. Of course, sometimes it’s the simplest materi-
configuration, and we went to Annette and her team to see what als that create the most effective solution. For example, the
they could do. Even though DPPT was decisively engaged in Army is gradually replacing some Velcro closures with buttons,
as buttons are easier for a soldier to quickly repair in the field.
“[Industry] designers look to current events (war), auto-
motive design, music and other things to inspire their lines.
[Our inspiration is] the Warfighter, [who] constantly drives my
team and I to design the best possible uniforms and protective
clothing,” states Annette. Soldiers themselves have proven to
be a great resource for innovation and improvement ideas. The
Ghillie Base Layer, for example, is a flame-resistant coat and
trouser worn by the sniper community. Field reports stated that
soldiers were cutting the backs and underarms out from their
suits, as they were too hot sitting still for long stretches of time.
Natick translated this feedback by incorporating a breathable
mesh fabric into a new Ghillie base layer, minimizing the sol-
diers’ need to alter their own suits and allowing them to focus
more on customization for their environment (snipers attach
custom camouflage, such as leaves and twigs, to rows of one-
inch wide nylon webbing on the back of their suits).
The Female Army Combat Uniform is another project
that DPPT is working on, in conjunction with the U.S. Army
Product Manager for Soldier Clothing and Individual Equip-
ment. ACUs are currently unisex and ill-fitting for women; the
new female-specific design will have a slightly larger hip and
hourglass jacket with an elastic waist. Presently in the fit-test
stage, Natick’s goal is to alter patterns to fit 99 percent of the
female soldier population; the challenge is in what the team
can change while staying within compliance of standards.
While Balmain’s Christophe Decarnin can design pockets as
small as he chooses, Annette’s team has to ensure that their
soldier can fit all the things she needs for the job.
The “sexy factor”

In the past week alone, my inbox has been flooded with invita-
DPPT Team Leader Annette LaFleur. tions to shop Junya Watanabe’s “military chic look” at Barneys;

DPPT design intern John Daly (left); designers Cara Tuttle (in front) and Magdalena
Mulherin (in back) work at a bartack machine.
suggestions on how to “get the trend” from Piperlime as a cool factor, [like] backpacks, breathable t-shirts. Sand goggles
they salute their love for all things military; and promo- [are a good example]. It is critical that Soldiers wear good eye
tions from theOutnet.com on their “new model army” pieces. protection; the ‘sexy factor’ ensures aesthetic.” Cool enough.
There’s no question that military is (once again) the trend
of the year—sales of J Brand’s Houlihan pants at Intermix “All The Way”
and Bergdorf will quickly speak to that. Both Spring and Lieutenant Colonel Accetta signs off on all his email corre-
Fall 2010 seasons sent military-inspired fashion marching spondence with this classic U.S. Army Airborne Division mot-
down the catwalk, from Balmain’s skinny leather cargos to; the phrase could just as well be used to sum up DPPT’s
and embellished band jackets to Rag & Bone’s camouflage hard work, creative expertise and dedication. I left my visit
anorak and stacked combat boots. to the Team with a fresh take on the garment design indus-
“Military trends in ready-to-wear are always covered by try, wholly taken-in and intrigued by an area of textiles con-
at least one designer; [they] are functional and carry a strong cerned with neither trends nor the creation of a cohesive col-
image,” says John, DPPT’s Student Intern Design Assistant. I lection, but with a real-life mission.
was curious as to the Team’s opinion of military on the runway, As I navigate out of the Natick visitor parking lot that
especially after a controversial Vogue editorial in the maga- day, I start to brainstorm on how to best frame this story. I
zine’s March 2010 issue. Reader comments on “Military Issue,” think about how the fashion world lauds industry leaders for
photographed by Mario Testino, expressed concern over “the their take on army appeal: Marc Jacobs for making tartan
trivialization of the uniform of American soldiers”; did DPPT cool—sexy, even—and Christopher Bailey for updating the
designers think that such a spread was disrespectful to their classic Burberry trench coat with metallics, silks and studs.
hard work, especially during wartime? I think about how Annette and her team are the source of
The crew thinks on it for a minute, and I’m sure I’ve hit a these and other military fashion influences all the world over,
nerve—until Annette mentions a W spread featuring a Dolce and have the immense vision and skill to rival any industry
and Gabbana jacket with military webbing, a dress made of talent. I also think that recognition for either of these things
digicam and body-armor jewelry, and describes it as both, “chic may be the last thing on their minds.
and cool, [and] interesting.” Magdalena coyly chimes in: “mil- In a follow-up email to Annette, I ask her to reach out
itary-inspired high fashion is very much in style, and yes it’s to her team for any last insights or messages that they hope
interesting and cool…but it’s also kind of sexy!” to get across. She gets back to me quickly, with a few words
Given the background (and obvious personal style) of from each designer describing their passion for what they
DPPT’s designers, I wonder how much aesthetic freedom they do. All are thoughtful and substantive, but I can only select
have with their military designs while maintaining practical- one with which to end the story. I choose a sentiment from
ity. I learn that soldiers are given a bag with all needed items Lynne, hoping to leave readers with a sense of why DPPT
upon reporting to duty, but that some try to swap military is- deserves to be in the spotlight, and of why day after day,
sue for a commercial brand with more style appeal. So Annette they do what they do. Says Lynne, “seeing the young Sol-
instated the “sexy factor”: “Soldiers take pride in their appear- diers so anxious to go over and fight and hoping that we see
ance, and [the] Army is competing with commercial industry them again…our job saves lives. What a warming thought
sometimes. We like to design things that are practical but with on my occupation.” Indeed.
49
heroine
in ruins
Photography by LINDSAY ADLER at www.lindsayadlerphotography.com
Wardrobe/Styling by JAMMIE SEAN SMITH
Makeup by KRISTIN MIRABELLE for MAKEUP FOREVER
Hair by LEO CREWS for CREWS 360
Model KARA ERWIN
51
THIS PAGE AND PREVIOUS:
Sequined dress by TWENTY CLUNY

53
Boots by RAPHAEL YOUNG

OPPOSITE:
One-piece nude bustier by
CAMILLA AND MARC; necklace
by ROBERTA FREYMANN;
boots by RAPHAEL YOUNG
THIS PAGE:
Dress by NPRPA
55
Dress by GUISHEM; necklace
by ROBERTA FREYMANN;
boots by RAPHAEL YOUNG
57
Dress by GRACE SUN; necklace
by ROBERTA FREYMANN; gloves
by MANGO

59
KISS
TELL
ADD SOME PUNCH TO YOUR
POUT THIS HOLIDAY SEASON.
Photography by REMI KOZDRA & KASIA BACZULIS

Make-up by MARIANNA JURKIEWICZ
Model KATARZYNA (REBEL MODELS)

SCARLET FEVER
MAC Prep + Prime Lip,
Lip Pencil and Dame Edna
lipstick in “Kanga-Rouge”
61
ULTRAVIOLET
Lip Pencil and lipstick in
“Lavender Violet”

TICKLED PINK
“Show Orchid”
63
GREAT BALLS OF FIRE
“Lady Danger”

ROSY DISPOSITION
Lip Pencil and lipstick
in “Victorian”
ADDITIONAL BEAUTY NOTES:

FACE: MAC Strobe Cream, MAC Studio Fix Powder Plus Foundation, BOBBI BROWN Corrector, YSL Touche Éclat, ROUGE BUNNY ROUGE Precious Velvet Flawless Face Powder
in“Piano”, SMASHBOX Step-by-Step Contour Kit; CHEEK: MAC Sheertone Shimmer Blush in “Plum Foolery” and “Well Dressed”, NARS Highlighting Blush Powder; EYES: ESTÉE
LAUDER Signature Silky Eyeshadow Duo, MAC Palace Pedigreed Eye Shadow X4, ROUGE BUNNY ROUGE Feline Gaze Eye Kohl in “Salome”, LANCÔME Hypnôse Custom Volume
Mascara; BROWS: MAC Impeccable Brow Pencil and Brow Finisher.
65
evigheden: MARIANNA BARKSDALE AND ABIGAIL STEWART
Interview by NICOLE HERZOG & NICOLE BECHARD

is trapped in a frozen castle, forced by the Queen to play an
endless mind game with shards of broken ice, while Gerda’s
character is archetypically nature-oriented. She finds Kai with
help from a reindeer, a fish-skin map, a pair of red river-soaked
shoes and a garden of flowers. The two children represent the
story’s opposing yet related themes: the cerebral and the natu-
ral. “A Thousand Pieces” is designed to mirror this relation-
ship. The ten dresses are sequenced to follow the story’s arc,
beginning with Gerda and the natural and ending with Kai
and his mind games. The first five garments have softer, big-
ger silhouettes; they reference plants and highlight body parts
(the spine, the hips). The last five are abstract echoes of the
Evigheden is run by Marianna Barksdale and Abigail former, falling away from the body with sharper shapes. Each
Stewart—how did you two meet? dress gets its name from a corresponding chapter.
We studied fashion design together at Parsons. We met in a
portfolio design class, where we both used David Bowie in our What type of customer are you thinking about when
presentations. Love at first sight. you design?
Our lady has an imagination; self-expression is important to
How did you two decide to come together and start a her. These garments are designed for a customer who genu-
fashion label? inely dresses for herself, for her own happiness—which is
We each had skills the other didn’t, and we were studying the why we pay attention to the inside of the garments as much
same beautiful things... as to the outside.
Where does the name “Evigheden” come from? What What is the name of your collection you are working
does it mean? on right now?
Evigheden means eternity, or everlasting, in archaic Danish. Our new collection for Spring/Summer 2011 is called “Op-
In the story of The Snow Queen—which we used to inspire eraland.” Its theme is thirteen princesses who sneak off from
our first collection—“evigheden” is the magic keyword solu- their bedroom every night to attend a secret ball, where they
tion to an epic puzzle. It is considered the perfect word; the dance until their shoes literally fall to pieces on their feet.
perfect emblem of a perfect idea. According to legend, the re-
ward for discovering this magic word is freedom—plus a new We’re dying to know more!
pair of ice skates, which are a symbol of joy. The story is an 18th century allegory to sexual expression, so
we went for sensuality. We were inspired by the extreme un-
You make textiles from scratch, work with local art- derstructures and decorative elements of Rococo ball gowns
ists and buy from farms to get materials. Amazing! and the lingerie of the period. A Boston fiber artist made our
Can you tell us a little more about this process and upholstery-like bamboo fabric, which became a focal point
how it affects your overall work? of the collection. The material represents the drapes and
For us to make something unique, even our materials need blankets of royal bedchambers. We wanted the collection to
to be genuinely new. In some cases we combine existing fab- contain elements of surprise—hidden trim, neon-airbrushed
rics to create a different one through quilting, felting, burn- lining, layers of hand-tacked ruffles (that are actually trans-
ing and other hand-done processes…we also ask artisans parent). Some design details are only for the customer herself
to make materials for us. Weavers, knitters and specialized to see or know about.
craftspeople have provided us with gorgeous work that we
can then plug into a high-fashion aesthetic. We like buying fi- Which garment is your favorite?
ber from American farms—in particular those in the Hudson In our minds, the garments are each part of a larger story,
Valley and New England—where farmers care about their designed for a specific set of moments in a customer’s life.
products and animals enough that they name each of their Our favorites change with our moods.
individual sheep! It’s important that a farm can tell us how
their fiber is made. A client buying a luxury garment should What can we expect to see from Evigheden in the future?
feel she’s bought art, as if from a gallery. Everything about New stories and inspiration, interesting materials, extreme
the dress ought to be extra-ordinary. shapes, more risks. Diffusion. And, yes—menswear.
In ten words or less: how would you describe the

Evigheden style/aesthetic?
FOR US TO MAKE SOMETHING UNIQUE,
Ziggy Stardust goes to a garden party. EVEN OUR MATERIALS NEED TO BE
You mentioned the tale of The Snow Queen, by Hans GENUINELY NEW... A CLIENT BUYING A
Christian Andersen. Can you tell us a little more about LUXURY GARMENT SHOULD FEEL SHE’S
how this story inspired your collection, “A Thousand
Pieces,” and how the garments themselves relate? BOUGHT ART, AS IF FROM A GALLERY.
The Snow Queen is about a little boy, Kai, who is kidnapped
and imprisoned by the lonely Queen. Kai’s best friend Gerda
EVERYTHING ABOUT THE DRESS OUGHT
makes a strenuous journey across the world to rescue him. Kai TO BE EXTRA-ORDINARY.
67
EVIGHEDEN “Leaves of Glass” dress
as
cold
as
ice
Photography by TIM RENZI
Hair/Make-up by JANEEN JONES
Styling by NICOLE HERZOG
Model ANNA MOULTON (CLICK)
All garments are from the

EVIGHEDEN
“A Thousand Pieces” collection.
69
EVIGHEDEN “Lapland” dress
71
EVIGHEDEN “I Can See Myself” dress
73
EVIGHEDEN “Use of Your Legs” dress
75
EVIGHEDEN “Basselurre” dress
77
EVIGHEDEN “Haberdine” dress

A TOUGH BITE
MASCULINITY AT ITS PRETTIEST.
Written by ARIANA SHURIS
Toughening up a feminine look is What are the current basic mens- and conduct are determined by the
like dipping a pretty, red apple into a wear-inspired fashion statements? clothing wrapped over our skin. This
rich layer of caramel. You can still see This fall and winter we will be see- is not to say that wearing pocketed
the beauty, but the structured coat- ing tuxedo and military trends, both slacks elicits more confidence, but that
ing gives the fruit a “harder” exterior. freshened with large collars, buttons the structured, more conservative feel
Many celebrities—past and present— and undeniable structure. Think Di- we get from them helps to give us that
have stood unafraid to add masculine ane Keaton as Annie Hall, but with extra boost without always having to
pieces to their wardrobes, whether sharper tailoring made to flatter the depend on sex-appeal.
with a sleek tuxedo, a thin tie or a female form. Then, think British, par- Incorporating menswear into a
loose-fitting pant. Hollywood icons and ticularly the Regency era fashion— delicate feminine wardrobe can help
models placed within the pages of our cropped double- or single-breasted us to re-define ourselves. Not through
favorite magazines are all embracing jackets, fob chains, tailcoats and high- our sexuality—in lipstick, skirts
the trend, which began when Amelia waisted jodhpurs. A brooch can help and feathery embellishments—but
Jenks Bloomer introduced her name- display the androgynous feel more. through our missions, impressions
sake to the public in the mid-1800s. Think Amelia Earhart—an aviation- and messages, which are more often
It’s true—fashions often echo styles of inspired look—well-tailored mens- than not set immediately upon first
the past. wear with a feminine fit. Earhart in- encounters. It’s simple enough to
Bloomer avidly promoted her post- troduced her own signature look with transform your fall or winter closet
Victorian idea that women should
abandon their voluminous, heavy
petticoats and wear looser trousers,
similar to those of Turkish women.
The “bloomer” would reach the ankle,
and be completed with a frill cuff and
knee-length skirt on top. Although this
look didn’t gain popularity until after
Bloomer’s death in 1884, the style al-
lowed for women to finally feel comfort-
able taking part in activities, and to
take charge of their femininity by tak-
ing fashion-chances.
Now that we’ve taken a step back,
we can see clearly where we are to-
day. Fashion has absolutely no limi-
tations. If Lady Gaga woke up and
threw on military pants and a bowtie,
we wouldn’t question her taste but,
rather, run out to the local mall to find
our own versions of the ensemble. We
all think, “Hey, if my favorite celebrity
can lose the femininity for a day and
still look flawlessly gorgeous, what’s
the big issue?”
Society is no longer shocked, but a leather bomber jacket, simple but- into a more “tomboyish” wardrobe.
accepting of the masculine touches on ton-up shirt and neck-tie scarf. The Two staples every woman should in-
the outfits of these stunning stars. A list goes on, but these inspired looks vest in are a blazer and a fitted but-
woman is not expected to wear a fig- from various eras are coming back ton-down vest. Black and brown take
ure-hugging gown in a delicate hue, be- full circle onto the runway, and will masculinity to the extreme; if you’re
cause she can still attract some stares stick around well into the new year. more comfortable sticking with your
with a simple black suit and closed- Some might say that women feel ultra-feminine side, find these pieces
toe jazz shoes with detailed stitching. impelled to wear the clothing of men in super girly colors—violet, bur-
And, at the end of a red carpet night, not to imitate him, but to compete gundy or magenta. Whichever shade
the paparazzi will be snapping stills of with him. Men are often considered you choose, these two items give the
the newest award show winner, even if stronger and more independent; what structure you need to look undeni-
her hair is gelled into a tight bun, ball we wear is how we wish to be por- ably powerful while remaining un-
gown nowhere to be found. trayed. Often our gestures, attitude mistakably stunning.
79
SMARTER SPENDING
RIDE OUT THE RECESSION WITH THIS EASY FIVE-STEP PROGRAM.
Written by BILLIE D. MCGHEE
We all know that people are really tight on cash these days. 2. Quality over quantity.
It doesn’t matter who you are—when it comes to splurging on Just because something is more expensive doesn’t always mean it’s
fashion versus paying for things like food, gas or rent, it’s fash- going to be well made, and vice versa. Whatever the cost, good crafts-
ion that usually loses the battle. For some of us, however, old manship is worth it. If you intend to make a piece a heavy-rotation
habits die hard, and we’re still maxing out our credit cards in item, you might like to have it survive a few runs through the washing
pursuit of the latest trends of the season. So what’s a girl to do? machine without aging it three seasons.
The sale racks are still as tempting as before, and sometimes I
find myself spending more on items I’m not completely in love 3. Think to the future.
with just to take advantage of a 50 percent off discount. Is it When purchasing an item, it’s smart to think of the “fad factor.” Would
time I cut myself off entirely, or is there a method to my shop- you still wear this piece in five years? One year? Next season? I’m not
saying that you can’t purchase anything that falls outside the catego-
ping madness that has yet to be learned?
ries of “timeless” or “classic,” but these are good places to start when
I know that I don’t have the money to spend on things
creating your dream wardrobe. Build on high quality basics—a little
like new shoes, bags and jackets when I have a closet full of black dress, a structured bag or a crisp white button up—pieces you’ll
perfectly fine things already, so I try to resist shopping com- want to spend a long time with. When it comes to the crazy trends,
pletely. But for me (and other reckless types), no shopping at save them for less expensive accessories, and maybe even try a D.I.Y.
all is truly unsatisfying. Over time, the hiatus inevitably leads project. Stud a pair of your old jeans, thrift shop for vintage tees or cre-
to a relapse, where I end up spending $100 at Forever 21. The ate your own jeweled headband. You’ll end up with more original outfits
items I purchase always seem to be more of the same things and will be less likely to break the bank.
that I already own, and my rationale is always that, “the price
was too good to pass up for the amount I was getting.” 4. “Sale” doesn’t mean “sold”.
To stop shopping cold turkey just wasn’t an option; instead, When you see that “70 percent off” sign, it doesn’t mean you have
I took a closer look at my spending habits. I learned that I was to buy something for the sake of saving money. Spend time and pick
constantly committing careless cash to cheap items. What I through the entire selection to find if something is truly worth adding to
needed to start was smarter, spaced-out purchases of quality your wardrobe. If it comes down to deciding between two items, one on
pieces that enhance my wardrobe—not only expand it. Now sale and one full price, consider the previous rules. If you know you’ll
let’s say I saved myself from that shopping spree at Forever 21 wear the full-priced item more than the item on sale, then maybe the
and put some of the money towards things I really needed and discount isn’t in your best interest for this particular occasion.
the rest to the side. Over time I could have used my savings
for a more satisfying purchase, say a black designer handbag 5. Rome wasn’t built in a day.
I could use all year round, or a tailored trench coat that will It takes a while to achieve your dream wardrobe—be patient. I’m not
always make me look polished, instead of several more cotton encouraging you to go start spending and accumulating all at once, but I
am encouraging you to think about spending smarter over time. A great
v-neck t-shirts that look scrubby after five washes.
way to start is to go through your closet to make way for your future
Looking through my closet I realized that although I own
purchases. Don’t just discard items you haven’t worn since high school,
a lot of clothes, I only wear about 20 percent on heavy rota- but also consider tossing things that you haven’t worn in the past four
tion. Looking closer still, I see that all of these items possess months. Still can’t part with your precious goods? Hold a fashion swap
the same qualities: they are each well-made, versatile and not with some of your friends, and maybe you’ll gain a new coveted piece
over-the-top. It looked like subconsciously I already knew the while seeing your items find a happy home in a friend’s closet. Donate
steps I had to take to develop the perfect closet. the leftovers to The Salvation Army or Goodwill. Remember these items
can be used as tax write-off, so you can save more money in the future!
There are plenty of ways you can ensure your next purchase
is a good one, but here are five of the simplest guidelines to
stick to, that will help you save money and grow a more fan-
tastic wardrobe over time:
1. Do the math.
Divide the price of the item by how many times you think you’ll wear it.
One hundred dollars for a denim jacket you’re only going to wear two
or three times is a waste of your hard-earned money, but if you end up
wearing it every weekend for three months the price will be worth it.
The key is to be honest with yourself and to think realistically. I would
have loved a pair of Miu Miu heels from the Spring 2010 collection, for
example. There was one pair in particular that was pink, covered in
birds and encrusted with enough jewels to make me delirious. I con-
sidered cashing in my savings to own them. But with a price tag of
$1,500, the only way that would happen was if I was going to wear
them every single day for the rest of my life.

ALL PHOTOS BY JUSTIN HOGAN
THE NEW YORK CHRONICLES

IS BROOKLYN THE NEW MANHATTAN?
Written by BRITTNEE CANN
Brooklyn is New York City’s largest latter holds more of a low-maintenance, offered his opinion when he said, “some
borough, home to more than two-and- casual, street-cool type of attitude. I of- women will go great lengths to look good.”
a-half million of the city’s eight mil- fer the two next short stories as anec- But look good she did. This Manhattan
lion plus inhabitants. If each borough dotal evidence… lady was a perfect vision of upscale luxu-
of New York were its own separate city, Manhattan: My dad came to visit ry, reminiscent of Audrey Hepburn wear-
Brooklyn would be the third largest in over the summer and stayed at a hotel in ing Givenchy in Breakfast at Tiffany’s.
the world, just behind Los Angeles and midtown Manhattan. During his week- Brooklyn: I’m a big advocate of do-
Chicago (crazy, right?). Considering end visit we packed in all of the fun and it-yourself manicures and pedicures, but
its sheer size it only makes sense that cliché New York stuff we could. We went on a particular Sunday a few weeks ago I
“BK”, as it is casually called, has many to the top of Rockefeller Center, toured felt like treating myself to the full salon
hidden gems to offer visitors. Strawberry Fields in Central Park, works. I walked down to a nail joint just
Many “Manhattanites” rarely leave saw the Empire State Building, walked off the train stop near my apartment in
the island. Sad but true, and a real through Times Square and shopped a Brooklyn and took a chair next to two
shame for those folks that limit them- bit on Fifth Avenue. It was here, around women already soaking their feet. The
selves to only the most famed sector of Fifth and 57th, where we saw a woman women were wearing sweatpants, ill-
New York because Brooklyn is a hap- strutting around ever so slowly in an out- fitting sportswear tops and messy-bun
pening place completely flooded with fit that was turning tourist heads every- hair, complete with plastic grocery bags
great vintage stores, boutiques, salons, where. This creature had on an impecca- in tow. They were not, on first impres-
restaurants, parks and more. bly tailored, tea-length dress that allowed sion, the picturesque fashionista types.
In terms of fashion, Manhattan her to step only about four inches ahead But, listening in on their conversation,
and Brooklyn offer two different points at a time, a pair of ornate art deco style there was no denying their knowledge
of view. The former is lined with every pumps, round oversized sunglasses, a and appreciation for sartorial great-
high-end retailer imaginable, specialty large derby-like hat and a small boxy bag ness. The two gabbed about a single
boutiques and luxury shops whereas the carried in the crook of her arm. My dad pair of vintage Gucci shoes for quite a
81
while. They described the shoes in great the way of shoes and accessories, but Williamsburg Hall is a cozy venue with an
depth—their shape, mix of textiles, logo a whole slew of unique dresses, skirts, intimate setup. There’s a small stage look-
placement, heel height, weight, what tops and pants. ing into a large floor space, surrounded by
clothes they’d look best with, whether or balcony standing room and seating one
not they thought the price was fair, etc. Made: 441 Metropolitan Avenue floor above. The floor down from the stage
Usual salon talk is related to the pages This tiny little boutique is a mixed bag offers a full bar, more seating sections and
of US Weekly but in that Brooklyn salon of new, vintage and consignment good- surprisingly nice bathrooms (always a
on that Sunday morning, the conversa- ies. Tiny, yes, but not a single item in the plus for us lady folk).
tion was serious about fashion. Those store is a bad one. No need to sort through
women made it clear that you don’t have any riff raff to find a unique one-of-a-kind Royal Oak: 594 Union Avenue
to live in New York City proper to know piece, as there are dresses, tops, pants, A dressed up dive bar, this place has a
what’s up with style. jackets and accessories aplenty. Whoever richly styled interior with felted wallpa-
So, is Brooklyn the new Manhattan, does their buying deserves a trophy. per and tufted red leather booths. There’s
like Charlotte once told Miranda? Well, a back room area for dancing, but what
last month Barney’s opened a CO-OP High Horse: 103 Havemeyer Street really keeps me a regular is the bar’s spe-
store in Brooklyn’s Cobble Hill, and this This hair salon opened in the beginning cial drink, called the “Liz Lemon.” Yes, it’s
season Kate Spade is selling a bangle of the year and they’ve had a steadily in- named after Tina Fey’s quirky character on
bracelet that reads, “No Sleep Till Brook- creasing clientele ever since. Prices are the popular NBC show 30 Rock, and it’s a
lyn.” Hell, if Brooklyn fever keeps up (and mid-range ($60 for a wash-cut-dry) and delicious blackberry and lemon spritzer.
if Jay-Z has anything to do with it) pretty their stylists are masterful hair special-
soon NY Fashion Week will be here too. ists! The interior of the salon is decked Union Pool: 484 Union Avenue
out with sepia-toned antiques that Ever seen Nick and Norah’s Infinite Play-
Brooklyn’s Finest: make you feel like you’re in a vintage list? This is one of that movie’s locations.
Atlantis Attic: 771 Metropolitan Avenue photograph. I recommend seeing Bella. It is an old pool supply store, turned into
My most beloved thrift shop in all of New a fun bar with a huge outdoor patio space
York, Atlantis Attic serves up a bevy of The Bagel Store: 754 Metropolitan Avenue and shack for live music. Outside there’s a
goods for both men and women. It’s defi- A true mom-and-pop operation, you’re taco truck parked, where you can curb your
nitely a thrift store (rather than a vin- greeted upon entering by a gang of sweet, late night munchies with all kinds of great
tage store) because sifting through piles hip-hop loving Brooklyn boys ready Mexican treats. Try the chips and queso
and racks of polyester goods is necessary to serve you up any kind of bagel and and you won’t be disappointed.
in order to find the few special items in schmear combo you could ever dream up.
between. Most things are priced between The place is open from 6 a.m. until 10 Brooklyn Adorned: 376 Bedford Avenue
$5 and $10 (including shoes and bags) so p.m., and if you live in the neighborhood This tattoo parlor slash jewelry shop is a
the hunt is always worth it. they’ll deliver right to your door. Coffee one-of-a-kind place. I had some ink done by
and a hot bagel delivered? Now that’s an their artist Daniel Albrigo, and I can’t rave
Stella Dallas: 285 North 6th Street ideal Saturday morning. enough about his skills—clean, gentle and
This place is lined both floor-to-ceiling an absolutely incredible artist. Everyone in
and wall-to-wall with inventory. Per- Williamsburg Hall of Music: 66 North 6th Street this place is so sweet. Those who say New
haps the most organized thrift store I’ve It’s no secret that Brooklyn is home to Yorkers are a bunch of rude jerks have
ever been to, everything is so well sorted a lot of cool and up-coming bands, so it never been here. Their jewelry selection is
and labeled that you can breeze through only makes sense that the borough of- unique as well. Offerings include some cool
the racks rather speedily. Not much in fers a home for these people to play at. girl brands, such as Sea Unearthen.

WHERE TO BUY:
THIS ISSUE FEATURED TOO MANY GOOD DESIGNERS, BRANDS AND BOUTIQUES; HERE’S WHERE
TO FIND YOUR FAVORITES! SIMPLY CLICK THE LINKS BELOW AND VOILÀ! INSTANT SHOPPING.
ANNA ALICIA CAMILLA AND MARC

www.aalicia.bigcartel.com http://www.camillaandmarc.com/
EVIGHEDEN DESIGN STUDIO NPRPA

http://www.evigheden.com/ http://nprpa.com/
NICO DIDONNA
RAPHAEL YOUNG
http://www.nicodidonna.com/
http://raphaelyoung.com/
MARK LORD BESPOKE
http://mark-lord.co.uk/ ROBERTA FREYMANN
http://www.robertafreymann.com/
JENNY SCHWARZ
http://www.jennyschwarz.com/ MANGO
http://www.mango.com/
BOLONGARO TREVOR
http://www.bolongarotrevor.com/
GUISHEM
http://guishem.com/
STEVE CORCORAN
http://showtime.arts.ac.uk/scorcoran
POSTHUMAN WARDROBE
http://www.posthumanwardrobe.com/
WHAT GOES AROUND COMES AROUND

http://www.whatgoesaroundnyc.com/
BIRD
http://shopbird.com/
VICTOIRE BOUTIQUE
http://www.victoireboutique.com/
PRELOVED
http://www.preloved.ca/
EVE GRAVEL
http://www.evegravel.com/
MALEKU JEWELRY
http://www.malekujewelry.com/
AZHAND SHOKOHI
www.azhandshokohi.com
TWENTY CLUNY
http://www.twentycluny.com/
GRACE SUN
http://www.gracesundesign.com/
83
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MARKETING AND TECHNICAL DIRECTOR

WEB & COPY EDITOR

I think, more often then not, we get so caught up in having all

We have collaborated with some amazing individuals over the

Our designer feature this month is also a must-see. Meet the

Finally, as the holidays quickly approach we have some tips on

P.S. As always, printed copies of Papercut Magazine are available

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A place for fine fabrics.

281 Auburn Street | Auburndale, MA 02466 | 6617.244.SILK(7455)

Interview by JAMALL OLUOKUN

PHOTO BY JULIAN GILBERT

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Written by ERIN BERRY

Every day we are bombarded with advertisements for

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Written by CHRISTINE MASTRANGELO

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Ashe Mischief of Dramatis Personae

Has your blog evolved since you first started it?

Blogging has become a new way to communicate with

What advantages to blogging have you experienced?

It seems like you see the fashion blogger community

Do you feel as if you have developed an online persona

28 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2010 www.papercutmag.com

Posted by MÓNICA PARGA

Fashion is experiencing a democratization phenomenon

What if vintage clothing is a trend itself? Will it disappear...?

Posted and photographed by JENA CORAY

I have a confession to make: I am a sweater ad-

Fall is not only my favorite season because of

With the fall weather finally arriving here in

30 NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2010 www.papercutmag.com

Photography by HELEN TRAN

Clothing provided by VICTOIRE BOUTIQUE, Ottawa, Canada.

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Interview by NICOLE BECHARD

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Interview by NICOLE BECHARD

The basics: name and where you’re from?

What is the inspiration behind your brand?

How did you become involved in jewelry design?

glass into pendants in my kilns, eventually creating fused

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I CONSIDER MYSELF A CHILD OF

Interview by NICOLE BECHARD

Your pieces are both sculptural and conceptual; has

Written by NORA E. S. GILLIGAN

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The process: from visionary ideas to the Warfighter’s

The “sexy factor”

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Photography by REMI KOZDRA & KASIA BACZULIS

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ADDITIONAL BEAUTY NOTES: