LEEDS METROPOLITAN UNIVERSITY

FACULTY OF BUSINESS & LAW

RE- SIT ASSIGNMENT, SEMESTER, 1, 11/12

UNIQLO IN ITALY

 Module: Global Marketing

 Course: International Business
 Assessors: Jon James & Vishwas Maheshwari
 Student: Víctor Hoyos López// Erasmus student
 Student ID: 77112442
 Deadline date for submission: 12 noon, Wednesday, 4th April, 2012
 CONTENTS
 Introduction p. 1
 Task 1: p. 2-4
o Uniqlo´s internationalization p. 2
o Uppsala model p. 2-3
o EPRG framework p. 4
 Task 2: p. 5-11
o Macro environmental analysis p. 5-6
o Micro analysis p. 7-8
o 12 C´s framework p. 9-10
o Challenges p. 11
 Task 3: p 12-14
o Factors to take into account p. 12
o Entry modes p 12-13
o Best entry mode p. 14
 Task 4: p 15-16
o Challenges of management p. 15
o Challenges of planning p. 15
o Challenges of control p. 16
 Conclusions p. 17
 Bibliography and references p 18-21
 INTRODUCTION
UNIQLO is a Japanese casual wear designer, manufacturer and retailer.

It is a fast growing company, one of the five biggest fashion retailers in the world. The
company manufactures casual wear for both women and men. It is owned by fast
retailing.

The company also operates in China, France, Hong Kong, Malaysia, Russia, Singapore,
South Korea, Taiwan, Thailand, the UK and the USA.

Nowadays, UNIQLO is trying to expand its operations in more countries and in this
assignment I am going to evaluate its potential markets (especially Italy), the possible
entry modes and the challenges that the expansion involves.
1. ASSESSMENT OF THE UNIQLO´S EXPANSION INTO OTHER
MARKETS USING THE UPPSALA MODEL AND PERLMUTTER´S
EPRG FRAMEWORK.

1.1. Uniqlo´s Internationalization

Currently, UNIQLO is operating in China, France, Hong Kong, Malaysia, Russia,
Singapore, South Korea, Taiwan, Thailand, the UK and the USA apart from Japan.
However, this process has not been an easy task.

Expanding out of Japan and into Europe in 2001 with its first UK store, UNIQLO
continued its growth into France in 2007 and Russia in 2010 and nowadays it is
planning to keep on with its expansion in the region.

Europe was supposed to be a key region in their plans, but there were many difficulties
which UNIQLO had to face and so, the company needed an IT partner which
understood the European market and local business culture.

NTT Europe supposed the solution. It provided full communications, infrastructure and
systems, being involved in the physical construction stage of the flagship store in Paris,
(the UNIQLO’s European HQ), infrastructures services in the UK and in the Mos cow
flagship store construction; giving to UNIQLO the necessary support to expand outside
from Japan and at the same time maintaining direct contact with key offices in Japan.
(Allix, C., 2001; Elliot, S., 2011).

1.2. Uppsala model.

It is a theory that explains how firms gradually intensify their activities in foreign
markets. Firms first gain experience from the domestic market. After, firms start
their foreign operations from culturally and/or geographically close countries and
move gradually to culturally and geographically more distant countries. Finally,
firms start their foreign operations by using traditional exports and gradually
move to using more intensive and demanding operation modes. (Forsgren and
Johanson, 1975), (appendix 1).The process has four stages:
a. No regular export activities
b. Export via independent representatives
c. Establishment of a foreign sales subsidiary
d. Foreign production
(Hollensen, S.,2004). (Appendix 1):
Using this model to explain the UNIQLO´s internationalization, we could say that with
its first shop in Tokyo and its subsequent 500 retail stores in Japan, first the firm gained
experience from its domestic market. After, UNIQLO decided to expand overseas in
China (a more or less culturally and geographically close country). Later, when the
company had reached success in the domestic market and in China, decided that it was
the time to spread out to England, USA and to other Asian markets such us South
Korea Hong Kong , Taiwan, Malaysia, Singapore and Thailand. By 2006, the firm
launched the European expansion (France, Russia…) through traditional exports and
joint ventures and with the help of an IT partner, NTT (Allix, C., 2011), (Elliot, S., 2011).

This model is appropriated to explain the UNIQLO´s internationalization: at first, the

firm only operated in Japan with sporadic exports in order to gain experience, profits
and stability. After it got a great success in Japan, Tadashi Yanai thought that it was the
time of expanding out from Japan to close countries (in terms of culture and distance).
Later, in 2001, UNIQLO opened its first shop in UK keeping on with stores around all
over the world (France, South Korea, Russia, USA…) firstly with joint venture contracts
and with the help of a subsidiary (NTT) and some years ago, the firm started with a
foreign production in the aforementioned countries.
1.2. EPRG framework.
It establishes that senior management at an international organization holds one of
four primary orientations when building and expanding its multinational capabilities .:

 Ethnocentrism- home country orientation - exporting surplus. External

operations considered secondary with respect to domestics and mainly to place
the national surplus.
 Polycentrism - host country orientation - subsidiary operation. Subsidiaries are
established in the external markets operating independently with their own
final targets.
 Regiocentrism - regional orientation - world market strategies. Regions
considered as potential markets ignoring borders.
 Geocentrism - world orientation - world market strategies. The whole world
considered as an only potential market ignoring borders between countries.
(Wind, Douglas and Perlmutter, 1979).

We could affirm that UNIQLO has a geocentrist orientation. The reasons for this are:
the company recognizes the regional commonalities and undertakes regional
strategies by considering the entire world as a potential market, ignoring national
boundaries. The firm develops policies and organizes activities on a regional or
worldwide basis. Firm designs product lines, pricing decisions, promotions and the
channels of distribution for worldwide markets (Wind, Douglas and Perlmutter, 1979).
For these reasons, UNIQLO following this orientation can be described as a global
company.

This model may explain the UNIQLO´s internationalization process since: within legal
and political limits, UNIQLO hires employees on merit regarding their qualifications
and knowledge without any discrimination between the countries and races in the
established markets. Furthermore, UNIQLO sees the world market as its benchmark.
The company is not only limited to the Asian market, but also it operates in Europe and
America, offering globally standardized products with similar prices independently the
country (Welch and Loustarinen, 1988).
2. MACRO ENVIRONMENTAL AND A MORE MARKET-SPECIFIC
ANALYSIS OF THE ITALIAN MARKET, USING A MINIMUM OF THE
12C FRAMEWORK. ASSESSMENT OF THE MAIN CHALLENGES
THAT THE ITALIAN MARKET REPRESENTS TO THE COMPANY.

2.1. Macro environmental analysis of the Italian market.

There are many factors in the macro environment which can influence the decisions of
the managers of any organisation. I will use the PEST model to analyse them:
(Appendix 2):

A. Political Factors: Italy is a democratic parliamentary republic. The government

is divided in three branches: executive, legislative and judicial.
Italy belongs to the United Nations, the G8, the European Union, the
International Monetary Fund, the World Trade Organization and the
Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (European Union,
European Communities 1995-2010).
This factor might constitute an advantage about this potential market for
UNIQLO, since these organizations assure the political stability in the country.

B. Economic Factors: in 2010, Italy was the seventh largest economy in the world
and the fourth largest in Europe in terms of nominal GDP (International
Monetary Fund, 2010), (World Bank, 2010), (CIA World Factbook, 2010).
The main source of revenues is the tourism and the economy is distributed as
follows: services (70%), secondary sector (25%) and primary sector (5%).
(Guirish, 2010). Economy in Italy in southern areas is less developed with
respect to north areas.
Its budget deficits and public debt is 4.5% and 118% of GDP for 2010,
respectively, and GDP grew 1,3% in 2010.
Italy´s main trading partners are France, Germany, U.K., Spain, USA, the
Netherlands and China (Economy Watch, 2010).
 This might benefit UNIQLO, since through these trading partners, the company
could get importance through Europe.

C. Social Factors: Italy´s population is 61 millions, distributed as follows:

a. 0-14 years: 14.03%
b. 15-64 years: 65.93%
c. 65 years and over: 20.04%

The country counts with a Growth Rate of Population of 0.68% and a Net
Migration Rate of 7.5% (Maps of World, 2012).

Its unemployment rate is 9,2% in 2012 (Central Intelligence Agency, 2012).

These are important factors for UNIQLO. On the one hand, the population has
been ageing, so the company might look at recruiting older employees to tap
into this labour pool; and on the other hand, the high unemployment rate
means that with the arrival of a new company, many workspaces can be
covered.

D. Technological Factors and Communication: Italy counts with The Italian

Institute of Technology (IIT). It is a foundation established to promote
excellence in basic and applied research and to contribute to the economic
development of Italy (Istituto Italiano Di Tecnologia, 2011).

Italy´s technology infrastructure is not brilliant. Only Portugal, Greece and Spain
are worse in the old European Union (Forbes, 2006).

Italy stands out in motor industry with well known brands: Ferrari, Fiat, Alfa
Romeo, Maserati... (NationMaster, 2012).

The major communication mediums are the RAI (Television and Radio) followed
by the Internet and Telecom Italia (Italy Travel, 2012).

Thus, a good strategy for UNIQLO in order to make itself known might be
through announcements in the RAI firstly and secondly by the Internet.
2.2. Micro analysis of the Italian market.

The specific analysis is composed of those entities with whom the company interacts
directly.
We have to consider the degree of rivalry among existing competitors, threat of the
new competitors entrance, threat of the substitute products, the bargaining power of
suppliers and the bargaining power of customers –Five forces analysis (Porter, 1980),
(Appendix 3).

A. Degree of rivalry among existing competitors: there are a good deal of similar
competitors such as ZARA, H&M, Pull & Bear, GAP, Benetton, Gruppo Coin…
well established and known in the country (Retail-index, 2012). All of these
retailers use aggressive advertising marketing campaigns and strategies.
Besides, the costs of leaving the industry are high due to the big costs of
investment. For these reasons, rivalry will be high for UNIQLO in Italy.

B. Threat of the new competitors entrance: Italy is one of the most important
fashion centers in the world, with many casual wear designer, manufacturers
and retailers. Entry costs and barriers are not high. This means that there is a
high likelihood of new entrants in this market since the Italian market is very
attractive (Italy apparel retail, 2012).

C. Threat of the substitute products: the Italian market is already offering

clothing products with similar prices and features. It is easy to switch to other
alternatives for the potential buyers, which is an inconvenient for our firm. The
company must achieve a differentiation in its products (Warren, G., 2012).
D. Bargaining power of suppliers: the stronger power of suppliers in the industry,
the more difficult it is for the firm within that sector to make a profit because
suppliers can determine the terms and conditions on which business is
conducted (Guillespie, A., 2007, p.61). In our case, there are few suppliers for
UNIQLO (Ramatex Printing Garment Suzhou Ltd between others.) (UNIQLO,
2012). Supplier fragmentation is made greater by the ability of retailers to
source from foreign manufacturers. The existence of a minimum wage in many
countries slightly increases the power of suppliers of labor. Supplier power in
this market is assessed as moderate (Italy apparel retail, 2012).

E. Bargaining power of customers: buyers can force competition between

companies demanding price reductions, improvements in quality or more
services from vendors (Porter, 1998). The most of UNIQLO´s potential
competitors offer products with similar prices and characteristics focused on
young people and specially in women as UNIQLO (UNIQLO, 2012). The company
must adapt its products to the Italian people tastes (which might differ from
the Russian, French or British tastes).
2.3. 12 C´s framework

(Doole and Lowe, 2004)

A. Concentration: The Italian population concentrates by 69% in urban areas. The

biggest cities are Rome followed by Milan and Napoli (Database, 2007).

Italy represents for 15.9% of the European apparel retail industry value.
Apparel retail industry had total revenue of $67,024.3 million in 2009
distributed as follows (Datamonitor, 2011):

i. Italian childrenswear: revenues of $9 billion in 2009 .

ii. Footwear market: revenues of $4.62 billion in 2009.
iii. Menswear market: revenues of $21.3 billion in 2009.
iv. Womenswear market: revenues of $36.8 billion in 2009.

This is an advantage for UNIQLO, since it is mainly focused on women, so in this

arena, Italy constitutes an interesting potential market for the retailer.

B. Culture and Consumer Behaviour: the main ethnic group is the Italian. The Italian
is a modern open society with a good education (Maps of World, 2012).

Italy is a country very interested in fashion and what is more, Milan is one of the
most valued runways in the world (Milanfashionshows, 2008).

Italian customer preferences are as follow: quality, price and customer services
(Zeenat, 2009).
Clothes are important to Italians. Dressing way can indicate your social status, your
family's background, and your education level. They are extremely fashion
conscious and judge people on their appearance. (Kwintessential,2004).

In conclusion, UNIQLO should consider this great taste in fashion for Italian
shoppers in order to adapt its products to this demanding market with innovative
products. Besides, studies show that low-cost switching is very appreciated in by
the Italian customers (Datamonitor, 2011). This could be an advantage for UNIQLO
due to its low cost products.
C. Choices: in the Italian market, there is a good deal of competitors in this sector:
a. Internal competition:

i. Benetton Group is an Italy based company which designs

men, women and children fashion apparel in wool, cotton,
and woven. It operates in Europe, Asia and the USA and its
revenues were $2,720 million in the fiscal year ending.

ii. Gruppo Coin manufactures accessories, health and beauty

products, and home decorations. The company operates in
Luxembourg, Slovenia, Hong Kong, India, China and Hungary
and its revenues were $1,663 million in the fiscal year ending
January 2010.
(Datamonitor, 2011).

b. External competition: Zara, GAP, H&M. (Retail-index, 2012).

In the Italian market there is a good deal of suppliers, especially clothing

manufacturers. However, the supplier power is decreasing due to a high competition
in the market. (Datamonitor, 2011).
The high competition across the country makes difficult the UNIQLO entrance. The key
aspect for being competitive and consequently to get customers might be through low
prices and a different strategy than its potential rivals.

D. Consumption: in 2011, Italian apparel retail industry increased by 1,2 % achieving a

value of $65,580.1 million representing a CARC of -2,2% since 2007. Womenswear
market is the most lucrative with 53.5% of the industry's overall value.
(Datamonitor, 2011).

Italians spent 960 euros per person on clothing and 260 euros on shoes in 2008,
much higher than the European average (Adendorff, L.A., 2009). In 2010, apparel
retail industry grew by 7,2% and the export revenue was almost 50 billion euros
growing by 10,4% .
Its main exports were: France (13.2%), Germany (+12.7%) and Spain (+8.1%), Hong-
Kong (+33.8%)... (FashionMag, 2011).
The period between 2011-2016 is expected to be increased, with a CARG of 1%,
which would drive the industry to a value of $68,950 million by the end of 2016.
(Datamonitor, 2011).
In this area, the Italian market might be a good choice for UNIQLO due to the high
buying power of the Italians and the high demand on fashion clothes.
2.4. Challenges

1. Place to entry: the northern part is focused on industry whereas the southern
part is focused on agriculture. Thus, northern cities with many young people
would be the most logical.

2. Huge competition in the market: both internal and external competitors

aforementioned, which have already a large customer base, brand recognition
and are well known. In order to overcome this challenge, UNIQLO should
develop effective advertising campaigns.

3. Lack of market knowledge and experience: although UNIQLO is already

operating in some countries in Europe, each market is different. This problem
could be faced by means of a joint venture.

4. High demands of the Italian customers: they look for last fashion trends, good
quality and low price products and the customer service. It is important to offer
good quality and low prices at the same time. UNIQLO´s employees should be
skilled and must know the Italian market and language to persuade the
potential consumers.

5. Preference of Italian brands: Furthermore Italians prefer buying Italian

products from Italian brands (Italy apparel retail, 2012). By means of offering
low cost products with good quality and using effective business strategies and
advertising campaigns, this challenge might be solved.
TASK 3: EVALUATE RELEVANT MARKET ENTRY MODES FOR UNIQLO
INTO THE ITALIAN MARKET.

We could define entry mode as an “institutional arrangement that makes possible

the entry of a company’s products, technology, human skills, management, or other
resources into a foreign country” (Root, 1987)

3.1. Factors to take into account

There are some relevant entry modes which UNIQLO could evaluate to entry in the
Italian market. Four groups of factors are believed to influence the entry mode
decision (Hollensen, 2004, p.279-284):
a. Internal factors: the large UNIQLO´s availability provides the basis for increased
international involvement over time. Besides, its international experience and
even in Europe reduces the cost and uncertainty of serving the Italian market.
UNIQLO´s product features such as technology, brand name or image is often
reluctant to participate in joint ventures, especially where this entails potential
loss of control over production quality or sharing proprietary information or
technology (Douglas, S.P., 1995, p. 151).

b. External factors: the great socio-cultural distance between UNIQLO´s HQ and

Italy might create internal uncertainty for the firm; nevertheless, UNIQLO will
have to overcome this challenge. Low Italian risk/demand uncertainty, the
good political and environmental situation and the big Italian market size
represent a great attractive for the UNIQLO entrance. Barriers, competition and
intermediaries (already analyzed) are other aspects which may influence in the
expansion.

3.2. Entry modes

The types of entry modes are three: by means of an intermediate (joint ventures or
franchising and licensing); export (direct or indirect); and foreign direct investment
(Root, 1987). We can also consider direct marketing through the Internet as an
additional mean.

A. Joint venture: it is a partnership between two or more parties. In this case

(international joint venture), these parties will be based in different countries
(Hollensen, 2004, p.318).
This model has some relevant advantages:
i. Reduces capital and other resources required
ii. Spreads risks
iii. Access to expertise and contacts in local markets
However, it has also some limitations:
i. Potential problems and conflict between partners
 ii. Communications and management problems
iii. Partial control

(Douglas, S.P., 1995, p. 163)

Since the costs are shared between the contract partners, UNIQLO should find other
similar Italian firm to sign a trade agreement for long-term.
For example, Alcott, an Italian fashion brand might be the solution, as it is focused on
dynamic young people wearing casual articles of clothing with similar prices as UNIQLO
(Alcott, 2012).

B. Franchising : franchising is a marketing-oriented method of selling a business

service, often to small independent investors who have working capital but
little or not prior business experience.
This method has some advantages: low risk and cost, working with partners
well placed in the market with money and experience. (Hollensen, 2004, p.
314).
By means of giving UNIQLO the legality to the franchisee to use its trade marks,
copyright, designs, patents, trade secrets, business know-how and geographic
exclusivity, UNIQLO could profit through a lower cost entrance.

C. Export: with export entry modes, firm´s products are manufactured in the
domestic market or a third country and then transferred both directly or
indirectly to the host market. (Hollensen, 2004, p. 291). This could be the mode
for initial entrance which UNIQLO could use to entry in the Italian market since
it does not involve big costs and risks.

D. Foreign direct investment: it is defined as a company from one country making

a physical investment into building a factory in another country (Graham, J.P.,
2001). It requires a big investment but it also has some advantages:

i. Full control of operations

ii. Acquisition of market knowledge
iv. Reduction in transport costs.
(Hollensen, 2004, p. 343).
Before carrying out this method, UNIQLO should execute an exhaustive analysis
of the key aspects in the Italian market and also the firm should find
merchandiser to deliver the products with promptness.
3.3. Best entry mode for UNIQLO

Having considering the factors aforementioned, the most suitable entry mode for
UNIQLO in the first two years could be a joint venture. Online sales through the
Internet would also be an appropriate additional mode. In conclusion, a combination
of these two entry modes would be the ideal choice.

UNIQLO is a company unknown in Italy and Italian buyers prefer Italian brands. For
these reasons, a foreign direct investment would be too risky since it requires a big
investment and perhaps, UNIQLO´s business in Italy will not get well, so it would
suppose a huge loss.
Establishing a joint venture with other Italian company such as Alcott, UNIQLO could
access a large number of customers. Moreover, it would provide UNIQLO the
necessary experience, contacts in Italian markets and market knowledge in order to
achieve success in Italy. What is more, it would suppose a more cautious option since
the joint venture would reduce capital and other resources required.

UNIQLO would also have to develop an Italian webpage adapted to the Italian
customer tastes to reinforce the sales in the market.
TASK 4: IDENTIFICATION AND ASSESSMENT OF THE CHALLENGES OF
MANAGEMENT, PLANNING & CONTROL THAT FACE UNIQLO AS IT
EXPANDS ITS OPERATIONS INTERNATIONALLY.

Expanding UNIQLO´s operations internationally involves some challenges since the

process entails the separation from its HQ and store building team in Japan. What is
more, historically, Japanese corporations have often had problems operating in Europe
(Doole & Lowe, 2008).

4.1. Challenges of management

Management, in a marketing context is “a business discipline which is focused on the
practical application of marketing techniques and the management of a firm's
marketing resources and activities” (Rakesh, J., 2005). Apart from the separation from
its HQ, UNIQLO has also had to cope with different ways of doing business in the
countries in which is now operating in all the levels, from senior executive down to
store manager (Allix, C., 2011)
The UNIQLO´s chairman, Tadashi Yanai has frequently been criticised since in many
times he has not delegated important functions and decisions to its subordinates . He
puts forward that “unless top managers are fully committed to paying attention to the
details, I don’t think you can call such people good business managers” (The
Economist, 2010).
This might constitute a problem for UNIQLO in its internationalization as there are
good managers well skilled who are able to cope with challenges and problems in the
countries where UNIQLO is operating.

4.2. Challenges of planning

Planning “is the setting of realistic goals and choosing effective ways to achieve these
goals. Goals must be understandable, achievable and able to be assessed.”
(International Rice Research Institute, 2009).
From my point of view, UNIQLO is carrying out a too quick expansion process in many
countries, planning to open from 200 to 300 stores outside from Japan per year (China,
South of Asia and South Korea, U.S.A. and Europe). The company is also considering to
open stores in Australia, New Zealand and South America (Kachi, H., 2011).
Maybe this is not a good choice and UNIQLO should do its expansion more slowly,
getting firstly a good position, image, recognition, customer base, brand... in the
markets in which is now operating before entering in new ones, since it involves huge
investments and developing an expansion plan in so many countries simultaneously
requires many resources which constitutes a great challenge for the company.
4.3. Challenges of control
Control “is the process by which the manager ensures that all actions are consistent
with the plan.” (International Rice Research Institute, 2009).
From 2000, UNIQLO has been sending takumis, who are skilled artisans with
experience in the apparel sector in Japan to provide training, technical guidance and
personnel development and transmitting to the next generation expertise acquired.
Production managers visit the factories weekly to resolve doubts and problems. (Fast
Retailing, 2010).
In this context, UNIQLO is developing its operations internationally, and takumis are
only focused on the Japanese apparel sector, which is a problem since the company
has to be adapted to the customer needs and tastes in all the countries in which it is
operating.
Besides, Europe and America were supposed to be key regions in their plans, but there
were many challenges which UNIQLO had to face: connecting its European operations
with HQ in Japan and others areas such as the US. The distance supposed a problem in
control terms. NTT was the solution: it provided a full communication infrastructure to
link Japan´s HQ with Europe and U.S.A. (Allix, C., 2011).
Conclusions

This report analyses UNIQLO, the Japanese casual wear designer, manufacturer and
retailer, and its potential entrance in the Italian market.

Nowadays, the company is developing an aggressive expansion plan, planning to open

from 200 to 300 stores outside from Japan each year.

In order to evaluate the potential entrance in the Italian market, the report:

 Provides some models of internationalization such us Uppsala and Perlmutter´s

EPRG.

 Studies the country (macro and micro analysis).

 Evaluates the potential market for UNIQLO using the 12 C´s framework, which
shows that the Italian textile sector is very attractive but also has some
challenges which the company has to consider: great competition, different
consumer behaviour, great distance…

 Assesses the best entry modes, which would be a combination of joint venture
with online sales.

 And identifies and examines the challenges in the UNIQLO expansion providing
recommendations to overcome the difficulties.
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 Appendices:

Appendix 1:

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Appendix 3:

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